SINGER W173 User Manual

INDEX

[Page]

Features and Parts
Needle and Thread Chart ®
Winding the Bobbin

Upper Threading ........................................................................... ®'®

Setting the Needle ............................................................................

Threading the Bobbin Case

Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle

Setting Stitch Length
stitch Length Chart

Sewing in Reverse
Adjusting the Tensions 14-15
Adjusting Pressure and Feed 15

General Sewing..................................................................................

Light Weight Fabrics 1®
Darning and Mending

Removing the Work ....................................................................16-17

Care and Maintenance 17-18

......................................................................

O iL

1 3

13

14-

1®

15

Changing the Belt 1®‘1®
Cleaning and Oiling Shuttle 20-21

Accessories........................................................................................

Trouble Chart

Attachments ......................................................................................

Attachment Foot ...............................................................................

Edgestitcher ......................................................................................

Binder..................................................................................................

Ruffier .................................................................................................

Cord and Zipper Foot

Hemmer

Darning Spring ..................................................................................

Buttonholer.........................................................................................

Button Sew-On ..................................................................................

Decorators .........................................................................................

Blind Stitch Hemmer.........................................................................

...............................................................................

..............................................................................................

[Page]

21

22-24

27
27

30
31
31

32
32

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Fig. 1

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FEATURES AND PARTS (Front View)

0 Spool Pins
(D Hand Wheel
(3) Wheel Clutch
0 Bobbin Winder
® Stitch Length Dial

(D Motor Cover Plate

0 Bobbin Winding Tension

(D Push Button Reverse

(f) Drop Feed Knob

@ Bed
@ Needle Plate—Seam Guide

@ Cover Plate

@ Presser Foot

g) Attachment and Foot Thumb Screw

@ Needle Clamp and Screw

g) Needle Bar Thread Guide

It) Face Plate Thread Guide

g) Tension Regulator

g) Sew Lite Switch
g Take-up Lever
|i) Face Plate
@ Pressure Release-Darner
H Arm Thread Guides

FEATURES AND PARTS (Back view)

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Presser Bar Lifter

Thread Cutter

mi

Fig. 2

Head Hinge Mounting Holes

NEEDL.E-THREAD-FABRIC-STITCHING GUIDE

Fabric

Extremely heavy tarpaulin,
sacking, canvas, duck, etc.

Heavy upholstery fabric,

ticking, denim, leatherette

Medium heavy drapery
fabric, veleveteen, suiting,
felt, terry, etc.

Medium broadcloth, percale,
gingham, linen, chintz,
taffeta, sheer wool,
shantung, etc.

Sheer voile, lawn, dimity,
crepe, handkerchief linen,
plastic film, etc.

Very sheer chiffon, batiste,
lace, organdy, ninon, net,

marquisette, etc.

Needle

No

4

3

2

1

O

OO

Machine
Stitches

Per Inch

6 to 8

8 to 10

10 to 12

12 to 14

14 to 16

(Plastic film)

8 to 10

16 to 20

Cotton
Thread

10 to 30 Heavy Duty

30 to 40

40 to 60

60 to 80

80 to 100

100 to 150

Mercerized

Thread

Heavy Duty

Heavy Duty

50

50

50

Silk or

Nylon

A

A

A

Fig. 4

WINDING THE BOBBIN

Disengage the hand wheel (2, Fig. 4) from the
stitching mechanism by turning clutch (3, Fig. 4)
toward you or counter-clockwise.
Place a spool of thread on one ‘of the spool pins.

Lead thread through arm thread guides, (A, Fig. 3)

and down between tension disc, 7, at the base of
the machine.
Put end of thread through a hole in bobbin flange

(Fig. 5) from inside to outside and place bobbin,
(B, Fig. 3) on spindle of bobbin winder (4, Fig. 3)

fitting the notch in bobbin^over small pin on spindle.
Push bobbin windey pulley against hand wheel. Hold

thread end loosely and start machine slowly. Bobbin
will be released when filled.
Hold the hand wheel and turn clutch away from you
until sewing mechanism is engaged so that the
needle moves up and down when you turn the hand
wheel.
Break off loose thread end used to start the wind
ing.

Fig. 6

U“r*Efx I rilxE/\OIIMvi (Fig. 6)

1 . Place spool of thread on left hand spool pin.

2. Lead thread through upper thread guides (A),

3. down and around tension discs (B) from right

to left,

4. into check spring (C),

5. continue to pull on thread until it hooks over

hook (D),

6. up into take up (E) from right to left,

7. down into thread guide (F),

8. through the needle bar thread guide (Q) ; and,

9. into needle from left to right. Pull three or

four inches of thread through needle.

Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn
wheel toward you until the needle goes all the way
down and comes back up. A loop (Fig. 7) will be
formed over the upper thread which then can be
pulled out straight. Place both thread ends under
the presser foot and draw toward the back of the
machine, leaving both threads three or four inches

long.

Fig. 7

10

SETTING THE NEEDLE

_ii Kar ('A'l to its highest point, by turning

see Fig. S. Raise the „ B, needle can be removed or replaced

by hand. Then loosen „T) In needle clamp push It upward as far as ,t
When replacing needle ,n, needle clamp screw (B) securely a screw

Will go into needle clamp hole, tightening

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. .h, needle make one complete revolution ot the balance

*h:e?by ha^dto be sore tU needle la ,n the correct position.

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THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

step 1 (illustrated in Fig. 9). Hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger of left hand,
so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin case is on top, take the bobbin between thumb
and forefinger of right hand so that the thread on top leads from left to right.

Step 2. Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull the thread into the slot of the bobbin case as
shown in Fig. 10, and draw it under the tension spring and into the fork-shaped opening

of the spring as shown in Fig. 11.

LOT

SLOT

11

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

Fig. 11

12

PLACING BOBBIN CASE

Raise needle bar to highest position, and lift hinged
cover plate. (See 12, Fig. 1) Hold the bobbin case
latch (D, Fig. 12), between the thumb and forefinger
of the left hand, with at least three inches of thread
running from the top of the bobbin case to the right.

Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of the
shuttle body, (C). Be sure the bobbin case finger

(E) is opposite the shuttle race notch, (A). Press
the bobbin case (B) into the shuttle as far as
possible until latch catches on the center post of
the shuttle. Then release the bobbin case latch,

(D). Press bobbin case again after latch has been

released to make sure the bobbin case is locked

Fig. 12

securely.

Close the cover plate.

SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH

13

The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial
shown in Fig. 13. Near O is the shortest stitch
and 8 is the longest, but the dial may be set at
any spot between markings for a variety of

lengths. Turn the dial to the right to lenghten

and to the left to shorten the stitch. The number

stitch length you choose appears under the indi
cator.

STITCH LENGTH CHART

Figures on indicator

Number of stitches per inch

O

No Feeding

(Approximate)

2

1

30

50

20

8

7

6

5

4

3

6

7

12

10

8

14

SEWING IN REVERSE

When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam,

press in the button R, 8, Fig. 1, as far down as it will go. The machine will sew backward
as long as the button is held down.

ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS

Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the
when it is raised. To increase the tension on the upper thread, turn
right. To decrease, turn to the left.

Before adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is
threaded correctly. When necessary to change the bobbin
tension, turn small screw (Fig. 15) on side of the bobbin
case clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen.
When the upper tensions are properly balanced, a perfect
stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in
fabric (Fig. 16).
When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is

pulled up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the
fabric (Fig. 17). When the upper tension is too loose, the

upper thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat on

the fabric (Fig. 18).

tension

dial (Fig

Fig. 14

is released

14) to the

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Fig. 17

Fig. 18 i

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Fig. 15

ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FABRIC

GENERAL SEWING

Usually for normal sewing the pressure bar cap or darner release,
22, Fig. 19, is at Its lowest position and the drop feed knob is

turned to “HI” position. Fig. 20.

SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS
When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin silk

or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway down.
Release all the way by pressing the snap lock, (A, Fig. 21) and

then press cap (B) down again to halfway spot. Lower the feed
slightly by turning the black dot on the knob to ”LO” position.

Fig. 19

Fig. 20

darning and mending

n ord.r W move the fabric freely m any direction tor d.rmng

>nd mending, release the pressure cap B completely by press
ing down on the snap lock, (A, Fig, 21).

Turn the knob to-DN" position, which drops the feed we
below the needle plate. To return feed to normal, return knob

to “HI”.

PREPARING TO SEW

Have taKe-up lever at highest point before starting to se

Fig. 21

DO not try to help the feeding by pulling the material as this
may deflect the needle and cause it to break.

never run machine without material under the presser foot

Place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lower ^he P^^^

Turn the hand wheel toward ;Vt:;:,:V:n. Tt " n:. necessary to touch the
to begin sewing. By having fvontrol The speed of the machine

hand wheel to start the machine. Vou merely pres, “ ° J
is regulated by increasing or decreasing

. ■ т^oт'I-f»asina the amount of pressure exeneu un

EMOVING THE WORK

sure to stop the urachlne when the thread take-up

sition Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and to the left, Fig. 22 an
ss the threads over the thread cutter. Pull down slightly, holding thread in both hands,

as not tötend the needle, Fig 23. Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot.

17

Fig. 23

iARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE

OW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE
our machine should be oiled occasionally to

sep it operating smoothly, how often depends
T the amount of sewing you do.

efore oiling the upper part of the sewing unit
t points indicated by arrows in Fig. 24 turn
and wheel toward you until the take-up lever

i at its lowest point.

Fig. 24

Fig. 25

18

Avoid over oiling: only a drop is needed at each point.

Be sure all points indicated by a red spot receive a drop of oil.

To oil mechanism under bed of machine, tip the head back on

its hinges and oil all moving parts indicated by arrows in Fig.

25.
For oiling needle bar mechanism, open face cover plate. Fig.

26.

HOW TO CHANGE THE BELT

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Fig. 27

Fig. 28

Fig. 29

If it should ever become necessary to replace the belt on your machine, the hand wheel
must first be loosened and moved out.

To do this, follow these instructions:

1 . Remove clutch nut (A) in center of wheel by taking out the small screw (B) near the

edge. Fig. 2T. Turn nut counter-clockwise until it can be lifted off.

2. Before moving the hand wheel, note the position of the washer, (C, Fig. 28), which fits

under the clutch nut. It may fall out when you are changing the belt.

3. Remove motor cover plate (6, Fig. 28) by loosing screws (E, Fig. 28).

4. Pull hand wheel away from the machine carefully. Fig. 29. Pull it just far enough to

make the grooved section which holds the belt accessible.

5. Slide old belt over hand wheel and over pulley on the end of motor.
S. Slide new belt into grooved section and over motor pulley.

7. Push hand wheel back against the machine.

8. If washer (C) has fallen off, replace so that the lips (D) are pointing toward the clutch

nut.

9. Replace nut and tighten screw securely.

10. Replace motor cover plate and tighten screws securely.

19

After doing this, turn the clutch toward you to disengage the sewing mechanism. If the

needle still moves up and down as you turn the hand wheel, again remove the clutch nut.

Give the washer a half turn and replace the nut.

20

»

CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE (See Figs. 30 and 31)

The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes
clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfere
with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning

and removal of the lint will safeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows;

1 . Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its

highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges.

2. Remove bobbin case (A), Fig. 30.

3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) down
ward and remove the shuttle race cover (C) and

shuttle body (D).

4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle and shuttle race

cover by removing all threads, lint. etc.

5. Apply a drop of oil with finger tip to outer edge of shuttle.

When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follows to replace the shuttle assembly:

1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position.

2. Place shuttle body, (D), against shuttle driver and

adjust into position.

3. Hook shuttle race cover, (C), over hinge pin at lower
edge into notch, and lock into position with shuttle
race cover clamps, (B), making certain the clamps

have been snapped securely into position.

4. Put bobbin into bobbin case.

5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle race fitting tongue

into notch (E) of race cover.

Fig. 30

A C

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ACCESSORIES

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5

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1 . Plastic Oiler

(sealed ^nd filled)

2. Package of Needles (5)

3. Large Screw Driver

4. Small Screw Driver

5. Felt Washers (2)
(for spool pins)

6. Bobbins (3)

Fig. 32

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TROUBLE CHART

Trouble i Probable Cause

If Machine
Binds

Thread or lint in

raceway

With take-up lever in highest

head back on hinges and remove bobbin

CLAMPS

BOBBIN

^ i

LATCH

T urn

CASE

\
/

BOBBIN

clamps

^RACE

HOOK

RACE COVER

outward and remove race

cover.

3 Remove hook.

4. Clean thread and lint from all parts, in
cluding race.

5. Run a drop of oil along rim of hooK

6. Replace hook, then race cover. Snap

clamps into place.

7. Srasp threaded bobbin case ®n^
replace, fitting tongue into notch of

cover.

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T rouble

Probable Cause Correction

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Skipping
stitches

Irregular

stitches

»
»

Uneven

#

stitches

Bent needle

Needle placed
incorrectly in clamp

Too fine a needle for
thread being used

Upper thread tension

too loose

Improper threading

Bobbin not wound

evenly

Pulling or holding
material

Not enough tension on
upper thread

Poor quality thread

Discard and replace.

See instruction page No. 10.

See needle and thread chart, page No. 5.

Tighten upper tension.

See threading instruction, page Nos. 8 and 9.

Rewind bobbin.

Avoid pulling or holding material, just
guide it.

Increase tension.

Try different thread.

a

Needle too fine for
thread being used

See needle and thread chart, page No. 5.

24

%

Trouble

Upper
thread
breaking

Material

puckering

Probable Cause

Improperly threaded

Too much tension

Starting with take up
in incorrect positon

Improper setting of
needle

Eye of needle too
sharp

Bent or blunt needle

Tension too tight

Dull needle

Correction

Refer to threading instructions see page Nos.
8 & 9 and rethread machine.

X^oserTtensiorTon upper thread by turning

thread tension knob to left.

Always start sewing with take up lever in

highest position.

Xefe7t^^ieedle^etting instructions see

page No. 10.

Try a new needle.

^XiscardTlTblunt or bent needles and replace

with new.

See tensions adjustment page No. 14.

Change needle.

%

B-

■ %

: ^

^ %

: 1

-,

stitch length too long Reduce stitch length.

25

Your sewing machine comes equipped with the basic s

pas- must! add.ti^

h«ve been designed specifically for your machine. They are ava.

a. modest oost from your dealer. If your dealer cannot »'th
those items, asK him to order them for you by part number. Then y
Win brass:red Of recelvlns the senulne part designed for best per

formance with your machine. directly

„ a sewing machine dealer is not available mail your inquiry dire y

to:

• \A/i+h bsisic s©t of a.cc©ssori©s

WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY

11750 BEREA ROAD

CLEVELAND, OHIO 44111

In Canada:

WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD.

1470 BIRCHMOUNT ROAD

SCARBOROUGH 733, ONTARIO

26

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SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR

MACHINE

Fig. 33

«^PART ; 4990

Darning Spring

<.^PART S 76554

Edgestltcher

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CD!

'■te--

K" PART S 76550

^PART S 82528

Attachment Foot

PART i 76552

e-PART i 1403

Ruffler

PART i 76552

^PART ; 74159

Binder

Tr PART i 76551

Hemmers

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ATTACHMENT FOOT

In order to attach the binder, edgestitcher and the hem
mers, it is necessary to remove the presser foot and

replace it with the attachment foot Fig. 34.

Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers, sliding the

attachment to the left as far as possible and tighten
screw.

The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to or as
far away from the edge as desired. Just move the at
tachment to the correct position before tightening the

Fig. 34

mounting screw.

THE EDGESTITCHER

The edgestitcher is used in mak

ing lace insertions, edgings and
pipings. The slots serve as
guides. To sew lace edging to
fabric, place the material you

want on top in slot 1 and the

other piece in slot 4, Fig. 3©.
To trim with a wide piping, place
the fabric in slot 4, and the told
of the piping to the left in slot

3, for a narrow piping, place the fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge of the pi
right in slot 3.

Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a french seam.

Fig. 35

27

Fig. 36

ping to the

28

BINDER

This attachment folds bias binding and applies it
to the edge of material in one operation. Slots on
scroll of the binder are for corresponding widths of
commercial folded bias binding. The open mouth of

binder scroll is used for unfolded bias strips cut
15/16 inch wide.

FOLDED BINDING
Cut a point on folded binding, insert in appropriate
slot. Draw through slot and under binder with strong

pin. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge.
Adjust sliding binder to right or left.

(Fig. 37)

Fig. 37

#

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TWO-TONE BINDING

(Fig. 38)

Two bindings can be sewn on fabric edge also in
one operation. When two are used, always skip one
size between widths, inserting each in correct size

slot.

HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING

(Fig. 39)

Cut 15/16 inch bias binding fold in half for a couple
of inches. Cut binding diagonally toward end, al

most to fold. Slip fold into center of binder. Draw
back until cut opens and binding encircles open end
of scroll. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge.

Adjust if necessary.

€

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Fig. 38

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RÜFFLER

The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating. Ruffling can also be
done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time. This highly versatile attachment,
despite its wide range of use, is simple to use. Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains,
pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the bodice of a dress, etc.

29

Fig. 39

Fig. 40

Fig. 41

30

THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT

This attachment is used to make and

insert covered cording, and to sew in
zippers. Loosen thumb screw to
slide foot to either right or left of

needle.

CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric

cover cord. Loosen thumb screw and

set foot so needle is centered in

needle hole. Machine bastes cord in
place (Fig. 42).

To sew covered cord to material,
reset adjustable foot so needle
stitches closer to cord, and on edge of base fabric.

SEWING IN A ZIPPER

Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters
center of needle hole. Guide metal of zipper along
edge of foot (Fig. 43). Stitching should be close to
zipper to allow easy opening and closing. Adjust to
sew from either right or left side, whichever is more
convenient.

Fig. 42

Fig. 43

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THE SET OF HEMMERS

Before attaching any of the hemmers, be sure bobbin
thread is pulled up. Then, with hemmer in place, hold
top thread loosely and turn hand wheel one full turn
toward you, making a loop under hemmer. 0rasp bob
bin thread with both hands and slip horizontally under
hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will catch loop
and carry upper thread to back of hemmer.
Fold material % inch for two inches along edge, hold at
each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and up over spoon

Fig. 44). Fold hem in material back of hemmer. Draw

forward to end of hem and fasten with point of needle.
Pull on threads gently as you start stitching.

DARNING SPRING

HOW TO ATTACH
Remove presser foot, unthread needle, place darner

spring on needle and slip hook up over needle clamp.

31

Fig. 44

»

Fig. 45

32

PART 5 2013

Fig. 46

Д ^

MAKE BUTTONHOLES Fig.

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ГГе Гоп .e ---VOU -^no, e.n ^

fabric... the button ° ® buttonholes ranging

with five Vl/16" in both the straight

,„ no. you have used this Button­ГоГуГ:,realize there's no greater tlnr, saving

accessory hn+tonholes are also available.

Keys for other size buttonholes ar

fnr vour sewing machine,

.r о'Г- vr.

BUTTON SEW-ON (Fig. 47

• z,++achment which will convert

::Гг r:hinrr:r?t thatwm ,ew buttons of vanous

:Г;"are^L\ruГn-er•°.rГofthea^

:‘сГу,::аГ:пГ:п:аГа:рГаг1пд.аппег.

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PART S 7622

Fig. 47

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decorator (Fig- -*8)

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BLIND STITCH HEMMER (Fig- *»)

Fig. 48

PART ; 76022

33

With the wonderful new decorator your "'»='^1"®
converts to a nraeter-oontroiled

broidery ntagic ,. ,;<j you're ready

the Dresser foot, attach the

to r^atre eight different decorative P*"“'"=;

pattern of course, has many variations ,n
Tenoth. All designs are built right into the deco

ratoA reducing your effort to a m,nimum...and you

use ordinary thread, standard needles.

]•

*-,»>■

With the use of this attachment you »f« *bl^e *° quichly

produce invisible stitched hems oh

draperies, etc. Also save many tedious hours of hand
work and give your sewing that P''<4f

Just fold your material and let the attachment take over.

^"*4

PART ; 7622

Fig. 49

34

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