SINGER W1717 User Manual

Page 1
Instruction Book
MODEL 1717
Page 2

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

POLARIZED PLUG CAUTION

To reduce the risk of electric shock, this appliance has a polarized plug (one blade is wider than the
other). This plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a
SEWING MACHINE
Record in space provided below the Serial No.
and Model No. of this appliance. The Serial No. is located Rear of arm. The Model No, is located Rear of arm.
Serial No.___ Model No. 1 71 7 Retain these numbers for future reference.
________________
Read all instructions before using (this
appliance).

DANGER - -To reduce the risk of electric shock:

An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unolua this
appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning^
WARNING—To reduce the risk of burns, fire,
electric shock, or injury to persons:
1.
Is'^se^bfo^Lr“ ^ """"" " ^PP'-nce
2.
attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. properly, If It has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water Return the
appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination repair electrical or mechanical adjustment. '"Mauon, repair,
4. innrnf tT« appliance with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation open-
S, and ircloth"" accumulation of lint,
Never drop or insert any object into any opening. Do not use outdoors.
appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only
has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working
be,ng"adZ'str”d''°''’ duSef P'"9
Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

DANGER

1. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts
3 ni 'r " ? immedia””,
« i“! '9" Pdlled into a tub or sink.
Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.
Page 3

WARNING

CONTENTS
1. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewinn machine needle.
2. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break
3. Do not use bent needles.
4. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
5. Switch the sewing machine off (“0”) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing pressar foot, etc.
6. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in thè instruction manual.
7. Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be blocked.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
10.
11.
12
1 3.
14.
1 5.
16. 1 7.
1 8 1 9.
20
21
names of parts 2
accessories................................................................................................................................................3
BEFORE SEWING a
Detaching Extension Table........................................................................................ 4.
Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord 5
Changing Needle................................................................................................................................6
Changing Foot.......................................................................................................................................7
Bobbin Winding...................................................................................................................................g
Inserting Bobbin..............................................................................................................................-| i
Adjusting Lower Tension............................................................................................................12
Drop Feed Lever............................................................................................................................... -] 2
Threading Upper Thread............................................................................................................13
Twin Needle Threading................................................................................................................14
Decorative Tucks or Designs...................................................................................................14
Drawing Up Lower Thread.......................................................................................................15
Foot Pressure.......................................................................................................................................-] g
Fabric, Thread and Needle Table....................................................................................... 16
Pattern Setting.................................................................................................................................. 17
STRAIGHT SEWING ig
Pattern Selection Dial....................................................................................................................ig
Stitch Length Dial............................................................................................................................i g
Starting to Sew..................................................................................................................................i g
Double Presser Foot Lifter..................................................................................................... i 9
Cloth Guide.................................................................................................................................20
Adjusting Thread Tension.........................................................................................................20
Applications of Straight Stitch.............................................................................................21
ZIGZAG SEWING 22
Zigzag Width Control....................................................................................................................22
Needle Position Control.............................................................................................................22
Thread Tension for Zigzag Stitch
MAKING BUTTONHOLES 23
Determine Length...........................................................................................................................23
Determine Width.............................................................................................................................23
Left and Right Side Balance of Buttonhole 25
Cutting Buttonhoies......................................................................................................................26
Corded Buttonholes......................................................................................................................26
SEWING ON BUTTONS 27 OVERCASTING 28 OVERLOCKING 29
Applications of the Elastic Overlockstitch 30
Application of Ultra Stretch.................................................................................................. 31
Application of Rick-Rack........................................................................................................... 32
Application of Decorative Fun Patterns
BLIND HEM STITCH 34
Elastic Blind Hem Stitch.........................................................................................................35
STRETCH SEAM35
.
ZIPPER SEWING SHELL STITCHING 33 PIN TUCKING QUILTING
SCALLOPING.....................................................................................................................................................
MENDING 42
Patching....................................................................................................................................................
Mending a Rip....................................................................................................................................42
.
APPLIQUE WORK 43 EMBROIDERY 44
.
MAINTENANCE 45
Cleaning.....................................................................................................................................................
Oiling............................................................................................................................................................
TROUBLE CHART 47
Changing Light Bulb......................................................................................................................43
......................................................................................
.......................................................................
22
33
37
39
40
....
....
...
....
Page 4

I. NAMES OF PARTS

1, Thread guide for bobbin winding
2, Pressure regulator
3, Take-up lever 4, Face cover 5, Upper thread tension dial 6, Thread guide for upper threading 7, Presser foot thumb screw
8, Presser foot 9, Free arm
10. Shuttle cover
II, Spool pins
12. Pattern selection dial
13. Stitch length dial
14. Needle position control
15. Reverse sewing lever
16. Zigzag width control 1 7. Drop feed lever
18. Bobbin winding spindle
19. Bobbin winding stopper
20. Handwheel
21. Stop motion knob
22. Special buttonhole adjustment
23. switch *
24. Socket
25. Thread guide for upper threading
26. Handle
27. Presser foot lifter
28. Thread cutter
29. Feed dog
30. Needle plate
* Specifications vary from country to country.
Page 5
2. A C CE S SO R IE S

3. BEFORE SEWING

Machine is stored in flat-bed style which makes your work easier in ordinary sewing.

Detachable Extension Table

Slide table off and the machine is used as a free-arm model.
Free-arm is convenient to sew or embroider; trousers, sleeves, cuffs of T-shirts, blouses, etc.
Do vice-versa of above steps to
attach extension table.
To open lid of accessory box, push it open, as illustrated.
Page 6
Connecting foot controller
and power cord
Oonnect foot controller and
power cord '1,1 2a

Changing Needle

Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel
towards you.
Before plugging in your machine,
sure that voltage is same as that of your machine, (written on a:plate at back of machine)
a Switch on put power on the machine and turn on the sewing lifht.
bj Push button to turn sewing
li|ht on and off. Always switch off or unplug
machine when not in use.
* Specifications vary from country
tp country.
The more you press foot controller, the faster the machine runs.
Loosen needle clamp screw and
remove needle.
With flat face away from you, insert a new needle into groove of needle bar.
Push needle until it reaches stopper (a) and tighten needle
clamp screw firmly.
Always use a straight needle with a sharp point.
Using defective or worn needles not only causes stitch skipping, breakage of needles or snapping of thread: it also can damage hook and needle plate.
Page 7
Changing Foot
Bobbin Winding
Raise presser foot lifter (\).
Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you (ZJ-
Remove foot holder by loosening
screw with screwdriver.
Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you.
Open shuttle cover.
Open latch of bobbin case and take it out.
Replace screw-snap type presser
fbot and tighten screw.
Close latch of bobbin case and bobbin comes out easily.
Page 8
push back to fold handle,
full out spool pin and put a felt iin spool pin.
Push bobbin to right and press
down foot controller.
Machine stops automatically
when bobbin is full.
Push bobbin to left, to disengage from wheel.
Rut a spool on spool pin.
Draw thread from spool pin through thread guide and pre tension device, following numb-
rs (I; and (Z).
W
'ind thread clockwise around
bo
ibbin several times.
Pu
ish bobbin on to spindle.
Holding handwheel with your left hand disengage handwheel by unscrewing stop motion knob.
V
V
Take off bobbin from spindle and cut thread.
Retighten stop motion knob.
If bobbin is wound unevenly
trouble
correction
; '6
y 1
as shown, open face cover and loosen set-screw of the guide for bobbin winding: Use screw driver to adjust height.
9-
1 n -
Page 9
Inserting Bobbin
Place bobbin in its case with thread running in direction of
arrow.
Adjusting Lower Tension
To test bobbin tension, hang and shake bobbin case as shown.
At proper tension bobbin case will gradually drop a small amount.
To adjust tension, turn adjusting screw with small screwdriver.
Guide thread into slot
bpbbin case.
Pulling thread to left, bring it under tension spring then to delivery eye (b).
(a) of
Raise needle in the highest
position. Leave end of thread of about 10
cm (4") from bobbin case. Take hold of latch and push bobbin case into shuttle Release latch when bobbin case
is fully inserted.
DROP FEED LEVER
The lever is in the right side of shuttle cover. For normal sewing, move the lever to ^ position. To lower feed dog, move the
lever to 22 position. This position is used for button sewing, darning and embroidery.
Page 10
I
Threading Upper Thread
Raise presser foot lifter. Raise take-up lever to the highest position by turning handwheel towards you.
Thread following numbers "l>T). Pass thread through guide (T).
Twin Needle Threading
Thread in the same way as normal threading, except at points (2;, ® and
At point (|), pass threads sepa­ratly to right and left of tension
disc.
Lead thread either side of tension disc (2).
Hook it to guide (3,; from down to upwards.
¡Thread take up lever
Pass thread to guide CD from right to left, and guide (|) (left one) then needle eye (7).
Leave end of thread of about 15 cm (6").
At guide (6), pass one of threads to right guide anc^ the other at left guide.
At point (7), thread from right guide should be lead to right needle eye, and from left guide
to left needle eye. Leave ends of threads of about
15 cm (6").
Decorative Tucks or Designs
Any stitch can be used with the
twin needle for decorative effects.
Most attractive are the multiple stitch zigzag and blind hem stitch for fancy tucks. The satin stitch or tapered zigzag designs in two colors are effective for creative trims.
Caution: Remember to use no more
than 2.5 zigzag width and needle position control at CED- for twin
needle sewing.
Page 11
Dfawing Up Lower Thread
Fabric, thread and needle table
H(|ld end of upper thread with
left hand. Turn handwheel slowly towards
you until needle moves down and up; again.
Pull upper thread slowly and lo\|/er thread will be brought up in a loop.
Pu I out both threads to about 1 5
cm (6") and place them together under presser foot on left.
Foot Pressure
Pugh down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will re lease the pressure on the presser
foct. To increase the pressure,
push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained.
Inslufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitiches, or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foct marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure. Wfien sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pr^sure. Increase pressure when sevying lighter weight fabrics.
THREAD
FABRIC
European
Cotton
very sheer. Lace,
Voile, Chiffon, Net SHEER: Blouse Crepe,
Law n, Organdy, Taffeta
50-70
LIGHT-WEIGHT; Crepe,
Wool, Brocade, Velvet
MEDIUM: Wool, Silk,
Linen, Velvetten, Cotton
Mercerized
Cotton
70
30 30
Faille, Terrycloth HEAVY: Denim, Duck,
Sailcloth
extra HEAVY:
Upholstery, Canvas,
30 30
Heavy Heavy
Awning IKNITSI
LIGHT-WEIGHT: Tricot Power net
50-70
MEDIUM-WEIGHT: Jersey, Double Knit,30 Power Net
HEAVY-WEIGHT: Double knit, Power Net
FAKE-FURS, VELOURS
30
30
Heavy
ILEATHERI VINYLS FILMS LIGHT-TO-MEDIUM-
WEIGHT HEAVY LEATHER
30 30
30
Heavy
[DECORATIVE TOUCHES] TOP STITCHING
MACHINE EMBROIDERY
Silk twist Size 50-70
Cotton
Covered
Polyester,
Silk, Nylon 60 60
Silk
Nylon
Silk
Nylon
50 Silk 50 Silk
Duty Duty
60
C.CPoly, C.CPoly.
Silk
Nylon
Silk
50 Nylon
C C Poly,
Silk
50
Nylon
C.CPoly.
Duty
50 50
Duty
C.CPoly.
C.CPoly. 90 C.CPoly, C.CPoly,
NEEDLE
European
U S SizePoint
705 15x1
65-70 9 65-70 75-80
80-90
1 1
11-14 100 120
70
70-80
80-90
90 -1 00
90-100
100-110
100-110
65-80
9-10
11-14
14-16
14-16 16-18 Wedge
16-18 Regular
9-11 Regular
9
16 19
9
14
REMARKS
Style Regular
Loosen up^ per tension one or two points
" "
"
"
Light
Ball
Light
to Medium
Ball
Medium
to Heavy
Ball
Ball or Sharp
Wedge Wedge
-16-
Page 12
Pattern Setting
ir A
la ^ Ц
PATTERN SELECTOR
1 4
5
mm
6
7
' Л A /
8
9
10
1 1
12
13
14
15
16
1 7
18
19
' / \ / \ ,
V V V
/
ФФ
\_\\
[1ЁИ
VTVT
YYT
МАЛЛ^
======
ш\л\\
wv
vuvu
w<
4. STRAIGHT SEWING
Set machine as shown.
PATTERN
NAME
TWIN
NEEDLE
BUTTONHOLE
— — —
----
л/wwvw 7WWWW
'■Vwywyi/
'ЛЛ'ЛЛ'^^'
/V''
■MWV»'«WWyv'
ziAW/AV/AW
ziAW/AW/AW
STRAIGHT
ZIGZAG
BLIND HEM
STRETCH BLIND HEM
MULTIPLE ZIG ZAG
SCALLOP
PEARL DECORATIVE
CHECKER
STRAIGHT
STRETCH
RICK RACK
DECORATIVE
ULTRA STRETCH
OVERLOCK
OVERLOCK
BRIAR
...
FISH
SWAN
COLOR
CODE
orange
yellow
YELLOW
YELLOW
YELLOW
YELLOW
YELLOW
YELLOW
YELLOW
PURPLE
PURPLE
PURPLE
PURPLE
PURPLE
PURPLE
PURPLE
PURPLE
PURPLE

Pattern Selection Dial

Turn dial to choose pattern. Dial can be turned either to right
or to left.
* Always make sure needle is in the highest position when operating dial.

Stitch length dial

For a longer stitch, turn dial in clockwise. For a shorter stitch, turn it in counter clockwise.
For normal sewing it is set between 2 and 3.
Page 13
starting to Sew
Pllace fabric under foot about 1 cm (0.4") inside the edge. Lower presser foot lifter.
Inliportant:
Hold on both threads during the siiwing of the first 3-4 stitches
of the seam.
Double Presser Foot Lifter
In order to obtain winder gap when using very thick materials, firmly push presser foot lifter up
as far as it will go.
Reverse Sewing
"to reinforce seam, sew back­v|/ards to the edge of fabric by
flushing down reverse sewing lOver.

Cloth Guide

Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular distance from edge of material. Set guide in hole on arm, at right
of needle plate, and adjust distance.
Run machine with edge of fabric
touching guide.
Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved seam.
Sew reverse stitches for rein
forcement at end of seam.
Draw fabric to left when sewing is finished.
Cut threads with thread cuttei
behind presser bar.
Release lever and commence
forward sewing guiding fabric by
(land as it is fed.
Never pull material.

Adjusting Thread Tensior

Test stitch performance on scrap of material you are goin
to use. With correct tension ((a;), upp<
and lower threads tension
equal and strong enough to lo( both threads in center.
If upper tension is too tig
(loose), upper (lower) thread li
straight along upper (low.
surface of fabric ({br.ic,). Corrt
by turning tension dial.
Page 14
Applications of Straight
Stitch
A Seams The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier
faarics require longer stitches, and
lighter weight fabrics require
shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to the seam.
B.
Basting/T opstitching
Se
!|wing a seam with a longer
St
itch se$ sti ga ca thei bo
sa on
he^
twi but
{sh:
in
is useful for temporary
ms prior to fitting. Basting
inches also may be used when
ithering in fullness. Topstitching
be done very effectively with long straight stitch. For a
der stitch, two threads of the
irnetype can be threaded through
needle (size 14 or 16). A
ivier thread such as buttonhole
St may beusedfortopstitching,
be sure to use a larger needle
e 16 or 18). Basting instructions
glossary.
5. ZIGZAG SEWING
Set machine as shown.
To prevent seam ends unravelF
ing, set machine for straight stitch and sew in reverse at beginning and ending of seam.

Zigzag Width Control

Set control at required number. Larger the number, wider the stitch. Set it at 0 for straight sewing.
Make sure needle is in upper
position when you set control.

Needle Position Control

Needle position can be changed by turning needle position control.
When selecting position, make sure needle is in upper position
to avoid tearing material or
bending needle.
Thread Tension for Zigzag
Stitch
Better looking zigzag stitching
requires less upper tension than straight stitching. Loosen upper tension slightly.
Page 15
^.MAKING BUTTONHOLES
$et machine as shown.
Bar tacking: Set pattern selection dial to 1 (,B^) and sew 5^6 stitches.
Left side: Change pattern to 2 (al]). Sew left side from front to back until it reaches end line.
Determine Length
Nleasure diameter and thickness
of button and add 0.3cm (1/8'')
f(jir bar tacks. Mark buttonhole size on material.
Determine Width
Dptermine width according to diameter of button, its thickness, arjid kind of material.
Attach buttonhole foot, Co
mpletely push back sliding part
of buttonhole foot,
PIB
ice material under foot so that
m
arking of buttonhole passes
thr
ough center of foot and arrow
'.b.
of foot indicates beginning line
of
marking.
Remember the point where arrow shows so that it is not necessary to mark end lines for all buttonholes.
Bar tacking: Change pattern to 3 ( ) and sew 5-6 stitches.
Right side: Change pattern to 4 ([(■*) and sew right side until it catches first bar tack.
Quick finish; To prevent unstitching, set zigzag width at 0 and proceed for a few stitches.
Page 16

Left and Right Side Bajlance of Buttonhole

Cutting Buttonholes
Stick a needle through bar tacks to prevent over-cutting.
Stitch density on right and left
sides of buttonhole can be adjust by buttonhole balance control digl.
This dial should usually be in a
neutral position (between " +
and " —"j
If the stitches on the right side of
thf buttonhole are too close
together, turn the dial to the left
(+j)-
♦ turning dial to left opens right
side and closes left side.
Cut buttonhole along center with buttonhole cutter.

Corded Buttonholes

For stretch fabrics such as knits,
a corded buttonhole is effective to keep finished buttonhole
in shape.
Hook filler cord on top spur and lead ends of cord under foot, pull taut, and hook them to bottom
notches as shown. Proceed with stitching as for
regular buttonholes.
the stitches on the right side of
If
le buttonhole are too open, turn
th
le dial to the right ( —).
th
Turning dial to right closes right
side and opens left side.
When buttonhole is completed,
pull filler cord ends so that loop on the other end disappears into
buttonhole stitching.
Thread ends of cord to reverse
side and tie, or cut both ends of cord.
Page 17
7. SEWING ON BUTTONS
Set machine as shown.

8. OVERCASTING

For light weight material:
Set machine as shown.
Overcasting prevents edge of
fabric from fraying and produces
neat finish.
Position a button and material under foot. When needle comes to left side of stitch, lower foot. Raise needle and adjust zigzag width so that needle comes to night hole of button.
Run machine at medium speed and sew 5-6 zigzag stitches.
Stop machine when needle is in upper position.
;a Set zigzag width control to 0 and sew 3-4 stitches to prevent unstitching.
OR
ib: Draw out work and cut off
threads.
Draw thread ends through to
wrong side and tie a knot.
Sew carefully so that all stitches on right side are flush with edge of fabric.
For thick and elastic material;
Set machine as shown. Sew in the same way above.
-27-
tv ly
-28-
Page 18
p. OVERLOCKING
bverlocking stitches make it
possible to sew and overcast seams at the same time.
Set machine as shown,
a For medium, thin material
b For medium, thick material
Applications of the Elastic Overlockstitch
This stitch is very effective for
overcasting, edgestitching, etc, on knits and very stretchy fabrics, also, for decoration.
Topstitching
A decorative topstitch can be
produced with the elastic edging stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garments for a dramat^ ic effect. Topstitch a braid or decorative inset with the elastic
edging to add an additional decorative flair.
Put two pieces of cloth together
with right sides facing and sew. To prevent edges from fraying,
sew so that right side stitches drop outside the edge of material.
In some cases overlooking stitches can be used for overcasting.
Pattern: AA Length: 5 width: 5
Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery Needle Position: L or R
Edging
As with the stretch blind hem, the elastic edging stitch can be
used for a decorative edge on place mats, napkins and table cloths. Proceed as you would with the stretch blind hem stitch, but use the elastic edging stitch
instead.
Pattern :AA Length: 5
Width: 3-5
Feed Dog: Up
Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery Needle Position: M, L or R
-29
Page 19
Application of Ultra Stretch
Stitch
Vii
A. Seaming
On most knits, a 3/16 inch finished seam, such as stitch and overcast or the overlock stitch, is more desirable than a 5/8 inch opened seam allowance. These stitches
can create a neater, more profes sional finish, eliminate bulky seams prevent curling, permit the gar ment to "give" under stress, and at the same time they cut down on the amount of work involved in making a garment. If ever in doubt as to which of the two stitches to use, test both on the particular fabric in question and choose according to their perform ance. The stitch and overcast stitch
is excellent for stretch fabrics
such as sweater knits, bathing suit
knits, and cotton knits. It has
the greatest strength and elasticity
of all.
For patterns with 3/16 inch seam allowances: Feed the fabric such that the needle goes over the
raw edge of the fabric when it swings to the right.
For patterns with 5/8 inch seam
allowances; Feed the raw edge of
the fabric along the etched guide
line "1/2", then trim away the
excess fabric close to the stitch
ing.
B. Procedure:
•Overlock stitching is used for seaming and finishing the cut edge of knit fabrics, all in one
operation.
•This overlook stitch is especially good for stretch fabrics such
I as double knit and jersey and
; will give a firm, neat edge finish.

Application of Rick-Rack

\wmi\
A. Topstitching/Rick-Rack
A decorative topstitch can be
produced with the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special
effect. Topstitch braid or a deco rative inset to add an additional creative flair.
B. Tapering/Rick-Rack
The rick-rack stitch may be tape-
red to form creative stems and
petals of flowers, embroidered pictures and wall hangings. As in tapering the zigzag, slowly turn the stitch width lever from 0 to 5
and back to 0. A group of these tapered rick-rack stitch will form a
bouquet-like effect.
C. Procedure:
•The elastic rick-rack stitch is a zigzag line of stitching that is desired so that seams may be pressed open.
•Apply this stitch to areas of stress
on both wovens and knits.
• Use narrow width of zigzag as a heavy duty triple stitch for seams
• Use medium and wide widths of zigzag for overcasting edges of seams, facings and hems of
heavier weight fabrics such as terrycloth, and for attaching ela Stic. Use also for decorative
stitching.
• Guide your fabric from the front Do not pull or push as it will cause poor stitching.
Page 20
Application of Decorative
Fun Patterns
A. Fun stitches Swan-Fish-Briar
The reverse stitch patterns pro duce swan, fish, briar designs for
use on household linens and children clothes. These reverse stitch pattern can be used to sew in hems as the scallop stitch. The reverse stitch patterns can
also be used for topstitching bindings and ribbons for decorative
effect. This is done in the same manner that lace is applied with the zigzag stitch. The straight
stitched edge of the reverse stitch patterns on the left should be sewn on the left edge of the
binding or ribbon. This decorative effect can be used on towels and placemats for a pleasant
appearance. The reverse stitch patterns can also be corded for
stronger decorative edges on place­mats and tablecloths. Simply place four strands of pearl cotton, em
broidery floss or yarn under the presser foot. A transparent foot will help guide the cord evenly
while sewing the reverse stitch patterns. The reverse stitch pat terns can be sewn with two threads
through one needle for a more effective decorative stitch. Simply
thread two sewing threads through the upper threading system. A
larger needle should be used to accommodate the two threads. Use this decorative technique for enhancing tablecloths, placemats,
napkins, and curtains,
10. BLINU ncivi o III v^> ■
Set machine as shown.
Fold material as shown and place
it under foot.
For a neater finish, it is preferable to baste or iron hem before hand
Sew carefully, so that straigh
/
c
stitches are made on hem edgi
and slanting stitches pierce onl
one or two threads of fold.
NOTE: Narrow patterns may be made by setting zigzag width to
4 3-2.
-33-
/
L__—--—J
Page 21
a; Correct seam.
(b; Needle is catching edge of fold
too much.
(C; Needle is not catching edge of
fold at all.
Elastic Blind Hem Stitch
For elastic materials, set machine as shown and sew in the same way as for normal blind hem stitch.
11. STRETCH SEAMS
A ball point needle is essential.
Paper may be laid under knits for smoother feeding.
(a Medium-weight fabrics
double knit, jersey.
Apply elastic triple stitch.
b Light-weight fabrics
Apply small zigzag. Reduce upper and lower thread tension.
-35-
(c) For Very elastic fabrics
spandex (power net)
Use lapped or abutted seam. Apply multiple zigzag.
Page 22
12. ZIPPER SEWING
Set machine as shown.
By using special zipper foot with sliding adjuster, zipper sewing
can be easily done without turning fabric.
Loosen screw (aj and set foot so
that needle comes into position
(b). Tighten screw.
Sew right side of zipper guiding fabric carefully so that right side
teeth of zipper are parallel with left edge of foot.

13. SHELL STITCHING

Silk, nylon organdy or similar
sheer fabrics are suitable.
Set machine as shown.
Fold edge of material. With folded edge to left, place it under
presser foot. Pull thread ends towards back
when starting sewing.
Re set foot so that needle comes into position (c). Sew left side of zipper in the same way.
Make sure needle misses raw edge of fold when it moves side
ways.
Page 23
l4. PIN TUCKING
Set machine as shown.
Far better appearance, use sheer material and tighten lower thread a little.
For twin needle threading see
p. 14.
Loosen presser foot thumb screw and insert square cut of quilting guide holder between screw and foot.
Tighten screw.
15. QUILTING
Set machine as shown.
Baste layers of material to prevent them from slipping out
as you sew.
Attach quilting guide and sew in the same way as pin tucking.
Mark first line with pencil or tailor's chalk, and sew.
From second line, just sew, following seam of first line using
guide.
Interval between seams can be adjusted by moving guide in direction of arrow.
-T9-
-40-
Page 24
1(6. SCALLOPING
Sfet machine as shown.
Rut two pieces of cloth together
vtith right sides facing, and sew.
’ rim edge 0.3 cm (1/8") away from stitching.
Make notches on seam edge at Evenly spaced intervals.
17. MENDING
Patching
Set machine as shown.
Place the patch over the worn part.
Sew along the edge of the patch on the right side. Trim away the worn part close to the seam on
back side.
Turn two pieces to right sides
out. Bring stitching line to very edge by pushing seam edge gently with your fingers, and
Dress.

Mending a Rip

Set machine in the same way
as for patching. Sew the edges of tear together
first. Then sew two more seams on
either side.
A piece of gauze can be placed
underneath to reinforce the rip.
-42
Page 25
18. APPLIQUE WORK
Set machine as shown.

19. EMBROIDERY

Set machine as shown. Remove foot, and holder screw. To avoid lower thread being
pulled up, reduce upper thread tension.
Draw design on material to be used as an applique and cut it out. Place cut out on base material and baste it.
Sew around outline with zigzag stitch adjusting stitch length and width according to shape and size of cut-out and type of base material.
To change direction at corners,
or to sew very small circles, stop machine, positioning needle just away from edge of cut-out, lift presser foot and turn material. Lower presser foot and continue sewing.
Sew a few stitches at end with zigzag width at 0. This is to prevent unstitching.
J
r
V
Nee dle
No. 9
No. 11
No. 14
Thr ead
120 -100
100 -80
60- 50
For good embroidery, it is
important to use correct needles and thread.
Use thin embroidery silk for upper thread and a thinner silk of same kind and color for lower thread. Trace your design on material
and center it in embroidery hoop.
J
Make sure material is taut.
Pull out lower thread by turning handwheel towards you while holding upper thread lightly.
Lower presser foot lifter.
Hold both threads and start sewing along outline of design with satin stitch.
Continue sewing guiding hoop
by hand. To finish filling, sew several
stitches with zigzag width at 0.
Lay typewriting paper underneath
when embroidering sheer fabric.
Page 26

20. MAINTENANCE

Your machine requires regular cleaning and oiling for satis factory sewing performance. A machine which is used for a few hours a day needs to be cleaned and oiled once a month.

Cleaning

Remove foot and needle. Remove needle plate.
Brush off all dust and lint on feed dog with cleaning brush.
Turn latches outwards.

Oiling

Use oil manufactured specially for sewing machine use. Other
oils will eventually cause mechanism to jam.
Apply one drop of oil to part of shuttle where friction occurs.
Open face cover and apply oil in
the same way.
Be careful not to apply too much oil or it may stain your material
and cause some sewing difficulty.
After oiling, run machine for 1-2 minutes to allow oil to penetrate
to every part.
Remove Top Cover:
Pull out spool pins and push bobbin winding spindle to right. Loosening screws a and b with large screwdriver, then take off top cover.
Remove shuttle race cover.
Remove shuttle Clean shuttle race with a cleaning brush and a soft cloth.
-45-
ly one drop of oil to lubricating points indicated by arrows.
Apply
-46-
Page 27

21. TROUBLE CHART

PROBLEM
Breaking lower thread
Skipping stitches
Irregular stitches
Thread not wound evenly on the bobbin or not drawn up correctly
Lower thread tension too tight Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside
the tension spring
Needle not fully inserted Needle bent Size or type of needle and thread not
suitable for the material Incorrect upper threading
Too much oil on the hook Incorrect size of needle for the material
Upper thread tension too loose Incorrect lower tension
PROBABLE CAUSE
‘^ORRECTioiTl
P. 10, P. 1 5
P.12
Remove lint and fluff with a cleaning brush
P. 6^^
....
P. 6 P.16 P.13
P.46
P.16 P.20 P.12
""Problem
material
puckers
Upper or lower thread tension too tight Stitch too long for material
PROBABLE CAUSE
Thread too thick
Incorrect threading of upper or lower thread
Breaking needle
Needle not correctly inserted Needle bent
Needle clamp screw too loose Upper thread tension too tight Needle too fine for the material
Dials have been changed while the needle was down in the material
Zigzag width set more than 2.5 while twin
needle was attached
lî trOUUIC to ...............
...............................- ---------------
Do not try to correct fault by yourself.,
CORRECTION
P.12, P.20
P.18 P.16
P.13, P.11
P. 6 P, 6 P. 6 P.20
P.16
P.18, P.22
P.14
-
The material not fed correctly
Pattern selection dial not set correctly Incorrect feed dog height Lint stuck on the feed dog
.47-
P.17 P.12 P.45

Changing Light Bulb

Unplug the machine. Open face cover as shown.
Remove bulb by unscrewing it in counterclockwise. Install a new bulb by screwing it in clockwise.
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