SINGER W165 User Manual

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INDEX

Page

Features and Parts ........................................... 2-3-4

Needle and Thread Chart

...................................

5

Setting the Needle................................................ 6

Winding the Bobbin ................................................ 6

Threading Bobbin Case

...........................................

Placing Bolobin Case in Shuttle 8

Upper Threading

.................................................... 9

Straight Stitching ................................................... 10

Changing Foot and Plate................................ 10

Setting the Stitch Length

Stitch Length Chart
Sewing in Reverse
Adjusting the Tensions

.............

........................

......................................

.................................................

..........................................

11
11

11

11

Adjusting Pressure and Feed.................................. 12

General Sewing

Light Weight Fabrics’

Darning and Monogramming

.............................................

.................................... 13

.......................

12

13

Preparing to Sew................................................... 13

Removing the Work
Creative Embroidery

Satin Stitch
Adjusting Stitch Width
Embroidery Patterns

Samples of Embroidery..........................................

............................................

............................................

...................................................

..................................

.....................................

14

.14

14

15
15
15

Automatic Embroidery .......................................... 16

Blind Hems ................................-

Embroidery With a Hoop

.........................

............

17

......................... 18

Page

Darning ................................................................... 18

Making Buttonholes
Sewing on Buttons

............................................

.................................................

19

20

How to Use Accessories ...............................21-22-23

7

Narrow Hemmer .......................................... 21

Lace Trimmed Hem ....................................... 21

Lace Edge ........................................................ 22

French Seam.................................................... 22

Flat Felled Seam
Hand Rolled Effect­Quilting Guide
Seam Gauge

........

.....................................

...............

.................. 22

.................. 22

...................

22

23

Care and Maintenance ........................................... 23

Oiling

..........................................................

24

Cleaning and Oiling Shuttle................................... 25

Accessories .............................................................. 26

Trouble Charts ............................................. 27-28-29

Attachments ................................ 31-32-33-34-35-36

Attachment Foot ............................................ 32

Edgestitcher .................................................... 32

Huffier ............................................................. 35

Binder .............................................................. 33

Hemmers.......................................................... 34

Darning Spring
Cording & Zipper Foot’

Sewing on Zipper

................................................

.................

.................. 36

34

36’

FEATURES AND PARTS

(Front View)

1. Spool Pins

2. Stitch Width Lever 1

3. Zigzag Stop Knobs

4. Hand Wheel

5. Wheel Clutch

6. Bobbin Winder

7. Stitch Length Dial

8. Reverse Push Button

9. Bobbin Winding Tension

10. Drop Feed Knob

11. Cover Plate

12. Needle Plate-Seam Guide

13. Presser Foot

14. Needle Clamp and Screw

15. Attachment and Foot Thumb Screw

16. Needle Bar Thread Guide

17. Thread Guides S f

T"

18. Tension Regulator

19. Light Switch

20. Take-up Lever "7 S'

21. Pressure Release-Darner

22..Arm Thread Guide

23. Cam Cover Chamber

....

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X

NEEDLE -THREAD

- FABRIC - STITCHING

GUIDE

Machine

Needle Stitches

Fabric
Extremely heavy

tarpaulin, sacking, 4
canvas, duck, etc.

Heavy upholstery
fabric, ticking,
denim, leatherette 10

Medium heavy drapery
fabric, velveteen. 2 to
suiting, felt, terry, etc.

Medium broadcloth,
percale, gingham, linen,
chintz, taffeta, sheer
wool, shantung, etc.

Sheer voile, lawn.
dimity, crepe.
handkerchief linen.

plastic film, etc.

-

Very sheer chiffon.
batiste, lace, organdy.
ninon, net, marquisette, etc. 20

No. Per Inch Thread

3 to

10
12

12

14
14

0

16 100

(Plastic film)

8 to 10

16

00 to

Cotton

6 10

to

8 30

8 30

40
40

60

60

to

80
80

to

ioo

to

150

to

to

to

to

to

Mercerized

Thread Nylon

Heavy Duty

Heavy Duty

Heavy Duty

50

50

50

Silk

or

7t

A

A

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FEATURES AND PARTS

(Back View)

24. Thread Cutter

25. Presser Bar Lifter

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26. Feed

27. Motor

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D!

Fig. 3

mechanism by turning the clutch 5 toward you or counterclock-

Place a spool

SETTING THE NEEDLE

See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar A to its

highest point, turning wheel toward you by hand.

Then loosen the needle clamp screw B and
the needle can be inserted into clamp C. place
needle (Hat side to right) in the needle clamp qrqoveD
and push it upward as tar as it will go into the SIDE
needle clamp hole, tightening the needle clamp
screw sectirely with a screw driver.

After changing neadle make on© complete revolution

of balance wheel by hand to be sure the needis is in the

correct position.

HOW TO WIND THE BOBBIN

Disengage the hand wheel (4, Fig. 4) from the stitching

of thread on one of the spool pins, lead

' thread through the upper thread guides

on the arm, eind down through the

tension disc (B, Fig. 5) at the base of
the machine. Run end of thread through
a hole in the bobbin edge and place
bobbin C on spindle of bobbin winder
E, fitting the notch on bobbin over small
pin on spindle. Push bobbin winder
pulley against hand wheel. Hold thread
end loosely and start machine slowly. ^

Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled. Turn clutch away from
you until sewing mechanism is again engaged so that needle moves
when you turn the hand wheel.

Break off loose thread end used to start the winding.

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.........

Fig. 5

FLAT

'SURFACED

SIDE

- 1

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THREADING THE

ED
)E

BOBBIN CASE

Step 1 (illustrated in Fig. 6).

Hold bobbin case between thumb
and forefinger of left hand, so that
the slot in the edge of the bobbin
case is on top. Take the bobbin
between thumb and forefinger of
right hand so that the thread on
top leads from left to right. Step

2. Insert bobbin into bobbin case,
pull the thread into the slot of the
bobbbin case as shown in Fig.7, and
draw it under the tension spring
and into the fork-shaped opening
of the spHng as shown in Fig. 8.

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE

Open, hinged cover plate left of the needle.

(See 11, Fig. 1) Hold the bobbin case latch, (D),
Fig. 9, between the thumb and forefing'er of the left
hand, with at least three inches of thread running
from the top of the bobbin case to the right. Insert
and center the bobbin case on the stud of the shuttle

body, (C). Be sure

0 the bobbin case

^ finger, (E), is will

enter the shuttle
race notch, (A).

Press the bobbin

case (B) into the
shuttle as far as
possible until latch
catches on the
center post of the

^^9’ 9 shuttle.

THEN release the bobbin case latch, (D).
Press bobbin case again after latch has been re
leased to make sure the bobbin case is locked
securely in place. Close the cover plate.

Fig, 10

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UPPER THREADING

(Fig. 10)

1) Place spool of thread on upper spool pin,

2) lead thread through arm thread guide A

3) down and around tension discs B from right to
left

4) into the check spring C over threaded discs

5) then pull thread under bar D (See insert. Fig.

10)

6) up into take-up lever E from right to left

7) down into thread guide F on face plate

8) through the needle bar thread guide G

9) and into needle from left to right. Pull three or four inches of

Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you until the needle
goes all the way down and comes back up. A loop (Fig. 11) will be formed over the lower
thread which then can be pulled out straight Place both thread ends under the slot of the
presser foot and draw toward the back of the machine, leaving both threads three or four

inches long.

10

STRAIGHT STITCHING

For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft

material, you may want to use the straight stitch presser
foot and the straight stitch needle plate which are in
cluded in your accessory box.. Both have.narrow needle
slots.

Changing the Foot and Plate. To change presser

foot (13, Fig. 1} loosen thumb screw (15, Fig. 1) and

remove zigzag foot. Replace with hinged narrow foot
and tighten screw securely.

To change needle plate (12, Fig. i) remove it with
cover plate from machine. Turn assembly wrong side
up. Hold needle plate in left hand and cover plate in

right. (Fig. 12-A)

Slip upper pin on cover plate out of groove on

needle plate, and pull upper portion of cover plate
away. Then lower pin can be separated from groove
as the tongue on cover plate slips out of the spring
latch on needle plate.

To attach cover plate to straight stitch plate, again

hold assembly wrong side up. Holding cover plate in
right hand at a slight upward angle, slide lower pin in
to groove, then lift cover plate to insert tongue into
opening of spring latch. Upper pin will then slide
easily into groove.

Put plates on machine and fasten securely with

needle plate screws.

Be sure to set the stitch width at 0 or the needle

will break in striking the foot or plate. Adjust stops 3
to hold zigzag lever 2 in 0 position.

Fig. 12-A

-----------------

2 3

Fig, 12-B

SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH

The leagh ol the stitch is regulated by knob 7 shown in Fig. I2-B. Near 0 is the shortest
length and 5 is the longest. Turn the knob to the left to lengthen and to the right to shorten
the stitch.

STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate;

11

Figures on indicator
Number of stitches per inch

0.

No Feeding 55

1 2

25

13

3

4 5

8

6

SEWING IN REVERSE

When you, wish to sew in reverse to tie the thread at the beginning cr the end of a

seam, press in the reverse button 8 Fig. 12-B as far eis it will go. The machine will sew
backward as long as the button is held in. Only 4 or 5 stitches are needed to tie a seam
securely,

ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS

Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down,
as the tension is automatically released when it is raised. To
increase the tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 13) to

the right, or clockwise. To decrease, turn to thé left. The higher
the number on the dial the tighter the tension. Before adjusting
lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded properly.

When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn small
screw (Fig. 14) on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten,
counterclockwise to loosen.

Fig. 13

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12

When the upper and under tensions are properly

balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both

threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. IS).

When the upper tension is too tight, the lower
thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is
lying flat on the fabric (Fig, 16)

When the upper tension is too loose the upper

thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat on
the fabric (Fig, 17).

ADJUSTING PRESSURE

-AND FEEDING OF FABRIC

GENERAL SEWING. Usually for straight sewing and zigzag stitching, the pressure bar

cap or darner release, 21, Fig. 18, is at its lowest position and the drop feed knob is turned to

HIGH, position. Fig. 19,

Fig. 15

Fig. 16

Fig. 17 ^

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Fig. IS Fig. 19

SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS.

When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin
silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway
down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock, A. Fig, 20,

and then press cap B down again to halfway spot. Lower the feed
slightly by turning the red arrow on the knob to "LOW" Position.

DARNING AND MONOGRAMMING. In order to move the
fabric freely in any direction for darning, mending and certain
kinds of free-hand embroidery, release the pressure cap B com

pletely by pressing “down on the snap lock, A, Fig. 20. Turn the
knob to "DOWN" position, which drops the feed well below the
needle plate. To return feed to normal, return knob to "HIGH".

Fig. 20

PREPARING TO SEW

Have take-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help the feeding

by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to break.

NEVER run machine without material under presser foot.
Place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lower the presser foot.

Turn the hand wheel,toward you until the needle is at its highest point. You are now ready

•to begin sewing. By having the needle at its highest point, it is not necessary to touch the
hand wheel to start the machine. You merely press the control. The speed of the machine is
regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure exerted on the control.

13

14

REMOVING THE WORK

Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up

lever and needle bar are located at the highest position.

Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and

to the left. Fig. 21-A and B, and pass the threads over the

thread cutter.

Puli down slightly, holding thread in both hands, so as

not to bend the needle.

Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot.

CREATIVE EMBROIDERY

Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate are

in place.

The satin stitch, Fig. 22,

which is really just a very short
zigzag stitch, and the basis for Eig. 22

most embroidery, is obtained by setting the stitch length as

near 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action.

The width may be set anywhere from just past 0 to the

widest, 4.

mm

Fig. 21-A

Fig. 21-B

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Adjusting the Stitch width

} To stitch continuously at one width of zigzag stitching lock stops E (Fig- 12B) so that red

pointers meet on width chosen. .. .Should you wish to move freely between any two widths,

such as 2 and 4, in doing free hand embroidery or buttonholes, slide stops to 0 and 4, then
move zigzag width lever to the right. Set left stop at desired width. Then move lever to the
left and set the right stop at width desired. To move stops, turn knob to left to loosen and

to right to tighten.
Embroidery Patterns

With the machine set for a short stitch length, different designs can be made by swinging

the stitch width or zigzag lever back and forth between 0 and 4 or any other combination of
widths. Try. setting the locks at 1 and 4, 2 and 3, etc. Set a rhythm for yourself and then
proceed, After a while you will become guite skillful, varying your designs by the speed of
the machine, stitch length and width and the manipulation of the lever.

SAMPLES OF CREATIVE EMBROIDERY

15

A. Sew a few stitches at 4 width, then quickly move

lever back to 0 for a short period. Count, if neces

sary, to establish a rhythm.

B. Set stops at 2 and 4, then move lever slowly be

tween settings, operating machine rather fast.

C. Set stops at 1 and 4. Gradually move lever from 1

to 4, then snap it back quickly to 1.

D. Set both stops at 4, stitch length at 4. Do a few

zigzag stitches, drop feed for 3 or 4 stitches, then

raise it again. By operating the feed knob rhyth

mically it is not necessary to count stitches.

A mjmjMMumMmiMMjm,

D mmmimimmimmmm

E

Fig. 23

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E. Drop feed, lock stitch width at 4, take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle in faJbric left of stitches.

. _ . _. on needle to make next daisy petal. Uontinue until tiower design is complete.

Lock threads by setting stitch width at 0 and taking 3 or 4 stitches in center of design.

-rraiK

Fig. 24

AUTOMATIC EMBROIDERY

Your machine will produce embroidery patterns automatically by inserting anyone of its

cams (Fig. 24) in the chamber on top of the machine.

Be sure the zigzag needle plate and zigzag presser foot are on the machine, and the

zigzag stitch width stops "3" are in the off positions.

With zigzag stitch width lever "2" (Fig, 25) in its extreme right hand position, place cam

on spindle, apply slight pressure while turning cam until it slips down into place.

Fig. 2S

Move zigzag stitch width lever- "2" to its extreme left hand position and set the stitch

length where you prefer it, but remember that most embroidery designs require a stitch length
of 1 or less for best appearance.

To remove cam, open door covering cam chamber, move lever *'2" to the right as far as

it will go and lift cam off the spindle.'

BLIND HEMS

Use blind stitch cam.
Use standard zigzag prssser foot and needle plate.
Set zigzag stitch width control knob at 0.

Set stitch length control knob between 2 and 3.
Prepare the garment in the same manner as for hand hemming.
Step 1. (Fig. 26) If hem with folded edge is used make first fold 3/8" deep.
Step 2. Turn hem the depth desired and baste 1/4" from upper edge. Press into place.
Step 3. Fold hem back toward right side of garment leaving 1/4" extended.
Step 4. Place material under presser foot and sew blind hem automatically.
Blind hem completed.

17

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IS

EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP

It is easy to follow a stamped design, or to work

free hand when embroidering or monogram-ming.

(See Fig. 27). Release the pressure from the foot

by pressing down the snap look on the automatic
darner. Turn drop feed knob to DOWN position

(see Fig. 19).

Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and
place under the needle after removing the presser
foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefer and
lower the presser bar lifter. Then operate the machine at a rather high speed while

the hoop slowly with both hands. Work carefully and be sure to keep fingers ont of
of the needle.

moving

the path

DARNING

Release pressure from foot and drop feed as directed above.
Place fabric to be mended under foot, and stitch around hole, moving the fabric firmly

and slowly in any direction. To fill in the hole, stitch from center outward, completing and

stitching in fabric.

-iMnsOm

MAKING BUTTONHOLES

First, mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on fabric

with a basting line or tailor's chalk. Make one on scrap fabric

"(following directions below) to be sure machine adjustments are

correct.

1. Replace presser foot with buttonhole foot which is grooved
deeply underneath to prevent piling up of thread. (See Fig.28).

2. Lock the stitch w^th at 2 and set the stitch length near 0.

3. Lower needle carefully into the mark on fabric indicating the
beginning of buttonhole. Stitch to the mark for the end of the

buttonhole, step 1, Fig. 29, stopping machine with needle in
fabric at right side of stitching.

4. Lift the presser foot and using the needle as a pivot,

turn the fabric end for end.

5. Lower presser foot and turn hand wheel just enough >

to raise needle out of fabric,

6. Drop feed ail the way down and move zigzag lever

to 4. While holding the lever at 4 width, take five
or six stitches to form bar tack, step 2, Fig. 29.

7. Raise needle out of fabric and return feed to "HIGH"

position and return, stitch width lever to 2.

8. Stitch second side of buttonhole, step 3.

9. Make bar tack by repeating 5 and 6 above (step 4).

10. Return stitch width to 0 and take two or three stitches to fasten bar threads and prevent
ravelling. Cut the buttonhole opening with a seam ripper, being careful not to cut the

stitching.

Fig. 29

Fig.

19

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20

If you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place
tarlatan or paper, which can be tom away after stitching, under the
fabric. And it is always wise to make several buttonholes on scraps
of fabric before working on the garment ,

For narrower buttonholes, set the stitch width at 1^2 and move
stitch width lever to 3 for bar tack.

SEWING ON BUTTONS

1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot. (See

Fig. 30-A, B and C).

2. Turn drop feed knob to “DOWN"

3. Move zigzag width lever to "0" position or to the extreme left.
Place the button so that its left hole comes directly under the

needle, then gently lower the presser foot. Move the zigzag
width lever to the right until the needle comes exactly over the
right hole of the button. Turn the balance wheel slowly by hand
to be sure the needle clears both holes of the button. Correct
width if necessary,

4. When needle goes into the center of each hole, mn the machine
at medium speed, making five or six stitches, stopping with
the needle in the left hole.

5. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent ravelling,

set the stitch width at 0, and take a few stitches
in the same hole. If you wish you may place
a rounded toothpick over the button, between

the two holes, and sew button to fabric in
regular way.

Fig.

Fig, 30-A

Fia. 30-B

Bemove the toothpick aad wind thread under

button, forming a shank. Fasten.

Apply the above method to sew on buttons with

four holes, hooks, and snaps, etc.

If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the

same procedure above for the two hole button.

Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to
permit stitching the remaining two holes. Hooks,
snaps, etc., are sewn to the fabric with the same
procedure as for sewing two hole buttons,

HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES

NARROW HEMMER. With the needle at its
highest postiton, replace regular presser foot with

narrow hemmer (Fig. 31). For a plain narrow hem,
make a 1/8 inch double fold for about two inches
along edge of fabric. Hold each end of the two inch
fold, slip underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into
the scroll of hemmer, draw forward to end and fas
ten with point of needle. Lower presser bar lifter.

Gently pull ends of thread as you start stitching.

Guide material slightly to right, and it will auto

matically take a double turn through scroll.

LACE TRIMMED HEM, To sew a narrow hem
and attach lace in one stitching, insert lace in the
slot next to needle (Fig. 32). Sew hem as above,
guiding lace under needle and hem into scroll.

21

Fig. 31

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Fig. 32

22

Fig. 34

LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING. Hold lace 1/8 inch from raw edge on right
side of fabric. Insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem (Fig. 33). Let hem roll over and
sew in lace. Press lace out flat along edge with hem turned up. It is possible to have a little
fullr№ss in_ lace by feeding it freely under scroll.

fftENCH SEAM. With right sides together, place top piece of material 1/8 inch inside

edge of lower piece. Insert in hemmer scroll, allowing hem to roll over and sew in top fabric,

making French seam.

FLAT FELLED SEAM. Open out French seam and insert rolled edge in scroll of hemmer.

Edgestitch to lay seam flat.

HAND ROLLED EFFECT. Use a narrow zigzag stitch, just wide enough to catch both

edges of the narrow, rolled hem.

QUILTING GUIDE. This guide for making parallel rows of stitching is attached by placing

the pronged holdhr between the presser foot and the presser foot thumb screw (Fig. 34).

masía

fabric.

line, successive rows will be an equal distance apart.

is to the right of the needle, it may also serve as a

seam width guide.

seam gauge as a guide for straight seams and even

rows of top stitching along edges of fabric. Fasten

gauge with accompanying screw in threaded hole in
bed of machine (Fig. 35). Adjust to seam width
desired.

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Adjust the curved bar to press ‘lightly on the

By letting the guide ride on the first stitching

When the bar is attached so that the curved part

SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE. Use the

CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF

YOUR MACHINE

HOW TO OIL

Your machine should be oiled occasionally to
keep it operating smoothly how often depends on
the amount of sewing you do.

Before oiling the upper part of the sewing unit
at points indicated by arrows in Fig. 36, turn hand

wheel toward you until the take-up lever is at its

lowest point. Remove top cover by loosening two

screws on cover.

JUR MACHINE

Fig. 36

23

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24

Fig. 37

Avoid over-oiling only a drop is needed at each point.
To oil parts under the bed of the machine, tip the unit back on its hinges and apply a

drop of oil at each point indicated in Fig. 37.

Fig. 38

To oil moving parts inside the face plate, which only rarely require oiling, open plate.

Oil at spots indicated in Fig. 38.

CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE

(Ses Figs. 39 and 40)

The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads and lint.
This will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal of
the lint will safeguard the perfonnahce. To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows.

1, Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. Tilt head back

on its hinges.
2, Remove bobbin case (A), Fig. 40.
3, Turn the two 'shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward and remove the shuttle race cover

(C) and shuttle body (D).

D B

25

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Fig. 39

i

Fig. 40

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26

4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and shuttle race cover by removing all threads, lint, etc.

5. Apply a drop of oil with finger tip to outer edge of shuttle.

When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follows to replace the shuttle assembly:

1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position.

2.

Place shuttle body, (D), against shuttle driver and adjust into position.

3.

Replace shuttle race cover,..(C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock into

position with shuttle race cover clamps, (B), making certain the clamps have been
snapped securely into position.

4.

Put bobbin into the bobbin case.

5.

Put the bobbin case into the shuttle race, fitting tongue into notch E of race cover.

ACCESSORIES

Plastic Oiler 10

1

Large Screw Driver 11

2

3

Small Screw Driver

4

Package of needles ' 12

5

Cloth Guide

M 6

9 ^

?

E

12

7 8

10

13 ^ 14

Buttonhole Foot 13

6

Small Hemmer Foot

7

Quilter Guide 14

8

9

Thumb Screw

Bobbins (3)

Felt Washers

(for spool pins)

Presser Foot for

Straight Sewing

Needle Plate for

Straight Sewing

Button Sewing Foot

TROUBLE CHART

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27 i

i

Trouble

. If machines

bind

Probable Cause

Thread or liât in race way

Correction

1.- With take-up lever
tilt head back on

in highest position,
hinges and remove

bobbin case.

LATCH

NOTCH

RACE COVER

HOOK

RACE

CLAMPS

2. - Turn clamps downward and remove race
cover.

3. - Remove hook,

4. - Clean thread and lint from ail parts, in
cluding race.

5. - Run a drop of oil along rim of hook.

6. - Replace hook, then race cover. Snap

clamps into place,

7. - Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch

and replace, fitting tongue into notch of
race cover.

28

Trouble

Skipping
stitches

Irregular
stitches

Uneven
stitches

I

Probable Cause

Bent needle
Needle placed incorrectly

in clamp
Too fine a needle for thread

being used
Upper thread tension too

loose
Improper threading

Bobbin not wound even Rewind bobbin.
Pulling or holding material Avoid pulling or holding material, just guide it.
Not enough tension on

upper thread

Poor quality thread | Try different thread.
Needle too fine for thread

being used

1

1

Discard and replace.

See instruction page No. 6.

See needle and thread chart, page No, 5.

Tighten upper tension.

See threading instruction, page No. 9.

Increase tension.

See needle and thread chart, page No. S.

Correction

29

j^roufale

Upper thread
breaking

Material
puckering

Probable Cause

Improperly threaded

Too much tension

Starting with take up in
incorrect position

Improper setting of needle

Eye of needle to sharp

Bent or blunt needle

Tensions too tight
Dull needle
Stitch length too long |

1

I Correction

Refer to threading instructions see page No.
9 and rethread machine.

Loosen tension on upper thread by turning
thread tension knob to lower number. iilj!

Always start sewing with take up lever in j|
highest position. ! ■

Refer to needle setting instructions see |
page No. 6. j j

Try a new needle,

' } 1

Discard ail blunt or bent needles and re- j!
place with new, i|

........ ............ ..................... ............... —..........

.................................................. 'isj

See tensions adjustment page No. 11.

Change needle.

Reduce stitch length* '!■ ;

•iilt

I j

lil

■

iii'l

!tii

30

Your sewing machine comes equipped with the basic set of acces
sories described earlier in this book.

The following pages illustrate additional time saving attachments
that have been designed specifically for your machine. They are
available at modest cost from your dealer. If your dealer cannot
supply you with these items, ask him to order them for you by part
number. Then you will be assured of receiving the genuine part
designed for best performance with your machine.

If a sewing machine dealer is not available mail your inquiry
directly to:

WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, INC.

CLEVELAND 11, OHIO

Tti

WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD.

Ill BERMONDSEY ROAD

TORONTO 16, ONTARIO, CANADA

SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR MACHINE

31

PART SI 403

PART Ä8253S

Attachment Foot

%

PART #76553

Ruffler

PART #76532

PART #4990

Darning Spring

PART #74159

Rj_TirJ.0r

Hemmers

c,

-cn -j

%

PART #76551

PART #1873

Cording & Zipper Foot

PART #76554

TTJ

j^iiayesiitcner

__

PART #76550

32

ATTACHMENT FOOT

In ordei CO attach the binder, edgestitcher and the
hammers, it is necessary to remove the presser foot and
replace it with the attachment foot, Fig. 41.

'Mo.unt binder, edgestitcher or hedimers sliding the
attachment to the left as far as possible and tighten
screw.

The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to or
as far away from the edge as desired, just move the
attachment to the correct position before tightening the
mounting screw.

Fig. 41

THE EDGESTITCHER

The .edgestitcher is used in making
lace insertions, edgings and pipings.
Til© slots sorv© cLS Q"uici©s. Xo SSW 1©G©
edging to fabric, place the material you

want on top in slot, Fig. 42, and other
piece in slot 4.

To trim with a wide piping, place
the fabric in slot 4, and the fold of the piping, to the left in slot 3. For a narrow piping, place
the fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge of the piping to the right in slot 3,

Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a french seam.

Fig. 43Fig, 42

BINDER

This attachment folds bias binding, applies it to the edge
of material in one operation. Slots on scroll of the binder
are for corresponding widths of commercial folded bias

binding. - " *

The open mouth of binder scroll is used for unfolded

bias strips cut 15/16 inch wide.

FOLDED BINDING (Fig. 44)

Cut a point of folded binding, insert in appropriate
slot. Draw through slot and under binder with strong pin.
Sliding binder slot to right or left.

TWO-TONE BINDING (Fig. 44)

Two bindings can be sewn on fabric edge also in one

operation. When two are used, always skip one size between

widths, inserting each in correct size slot.

HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING (Fig. 45)

Cut 15/16 inch bias binding fold in half for a couple
of inches. Cut Binding diagonally toward end, almost to
fold. Slip fold into center of binder. Draw back until cut
opens and binding encircles open end of scroll. Test stitch
ing to be sure it is on the edge adjust if necessary.

33

Fig. 44

Fig, 45

.'ii
II

li>

34

THE SET OF HEMMERS

Before attaching any of the hemmers, be sure bobbin
thread is pulled up. Then, with hensmer in place, hold top
thread loosely and turn handwheel one full turn toward you,

making a loop under hemmer. Grasp bobbin’ thread with
both hands and slip horizontally under hemmer toward back.
Bobbin thread will catch loop and carry upper thread to
back of hemmer.

Fold material in 1/8 inch for two inches along edge,
hold at each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and up over
spoon. (Fig. 46). Fold hem in material back of hemmer.
Draw forward to end of hem and fasten with point of needle.
Pull on threads gently as you start stitching.

DARNING SPRING

HOW TO ATTACH

Remove presser foot, unthread needle, place darner

spring, on needle and slip hook up over hub on needle clamp,

Fig. 46

PATCHING AND MONOGRAMMING

See page. No. 18 Fig. 47.

RÜFFLER

Fig. 49 Fig. 50

The rafiler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating.

Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time.
This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use.
Use the niffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the bodice of a
dress and etc.

Cl ‘i f I J

__________________

1

35

Fig. 49A Fig. SOA

36

_ THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING

AND ZIPPER FOOT

This atiachment is used to make and
insert covered cording, and to sew in
zippers. Loosen thumb screw tcf slide
foot to either right or left of needle.

CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric
over cord. Loosen thumb screw and set

foot so needle is centered in needle
hole. Machine baste cord in place

(Fig. 52).

To sew covered cord to material,
reset adjustable foot so needle stitches
closer to cord, and on edge of base

fabric.

Fig. 52

SEWING IN A ZIPPER

Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle
enters center of needle hole. Guide metal of zipper
along edge of foot (Fig. 51). Stitching should be
close to zipper to allow easy opening and closing.

Adjust to sew from either right or left side, which
ever is more convenient.

--

-----------------------------

iT'- —■ inn r I'lr'ni a»iirfw1rta*i<i.».i*-J.rie<j-Wi.U;.«i,^..«-«ii<.i....i. j«r,r

MEMO

MEMO

PART #88876
SJH 1264

TO OBTAIN THE BEST PERFORMANCE FROM

YOUR MACHINE BE SURE THE CABINET,
CARRYING CASE OR OTHER ITEMS USED

WITH YOUR MACHINE ARE GENUINE WHITE

CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES PRODUCTS

Printed in Japan