Push the speed control plug onto three
prong connector.
Plug machine cord into any 110 - 120
volt wall outlet.
LIGHT SWJTCH
Turn light on and off by pushing light
switch.
SEWING LIGHT
The sewing light is located m the face
cover as shown. To replace the bulb,
turn the light off and open the face
cover. Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb counter-clockwise and remove d
from the socket.
Push a new bulb m and turn it clockwise,
NOTE:
First, unplug the machine prior to re
moving and replacing the bulb. Be
aware that the light bulb may be warm.
FOOT-CONTROL
Step on this control to start tosew. The
harder you press on the control, the
faster the machine will sew. Slow down
by reducing foot pressure on the control.
You may want to practice your speed at
different levels when you first use the
machine.
Page 9
INSTALLING EXTENSION TABLE
For all flat-bed sewing use the extension table provided with the machine. To
install the extension table, simply slide the table along the free arm until the two
Pins ¡A) and ¡B) enter fitting holes in the machine.
Lower the support leg.
To utilize free-arm feature for sewing tubular material, remove the extension
table from the machine by pulling it to the left.
Page 10
NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART
The needle and thread you choose depends upon the fabric you are stitching.
The correct needle size is important to avoid damaging the fibers of light weight
or tightly woven fabrics, and to prevent needle breakage when stitching heavy
or stiff fabrics.
Needle
size
9
fine
11
light
14
medium
16
heavy
Thread
*polyester
* cotton covered polvester
'fine mercerized cotton (70-100i
*silk A
'polyester
'cotton covered polyester
'mercerized cotton (50-60)
'silk A
heavy wools, corduroy, felt,
terrycloth, canvas, upholstery
and drapery fabrics
i
i'
j
i
1
1
1
1
Always use same type and size of thread in both needle and bobbin.
Always use a sharp needle. A blunt point can cause skipped stitches or snag
the fabric. Chemical finishes and man-made fibers blunt the needle faster.
Never use a bent needle.
If your machine is skipping stitches, replace the needle before looking for
trouble elsewhere.
When sewing very fine fabrics, use tissue paper underlay to prevent yarn distor
tion.
When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics, use a BLUE TIPPED
needle. The blue tipped needle effectively prevents skipped stitches.
8
Page 11
- ;>
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
1. Turn the hand wheel towards you
until the needle is at its highest posi- :
tion. 1
2. Loosen the needle clamp screw by i
turning its top edge towards you.
■.
Remove the needle from the clamp. i
....................
I2i
(4)
(3)
i
TO SELECT A SUITABLE NEEDLE
Stem
rZD
clamp with its flat side facing away
from you. Push the needle up into
needle clamp as far as possible.
Tighten the needle clamp screw
firmly.
A number indicating the size of
needle is marked on the stem. The
higher the number, the thicker the
needle.
Do not use any needle which is bent
or blunted.
Page 12
REMOVING AND ATTACHING THE PRESSER FOOT
To Ramove;
1. Turn the hand : wheel towards you until
the needle is at its highest position. Raise
the presser foot by lifting the presser foot
lifter.
,2.
....
B.'^JiftiDM--A>3JsmL3BJbehsckMtbslQQi
holder, the presser foot will drop off.
Note: *Do not force the presser foot to
remove it
To Attach:
1. Place the presser foot so that the pin on
the foot lies just under the groove of the
foot holder. Lower the foot holder.
...............
Presser^ Z
foot // W
/
T' ' ■ ..... ..
2. When the presser foot lifter is raised
you'll find the presser foot is locked in
piece.
10
Page 13
WINDING THE BOBBIN
1. Release clutch by turning clutch
knob toward you.
2. Draw thread from spool through
bobbin winder tension disc as shown.
3. Pull end of thread* through hole in
bobbin as shown.
4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder
shaft with end of thread coming
from the top of the bobbin. Push
bobbin winder shaft to the right
until it clicks. Holding onto end
of thread, start machine. When
bobbin is slightly filled, snip off
end of thread.
5. Wind thread until winder stops.
Remove bobbin. Clip thread.
6. Tighten clutch knob.
11
Page 14
ADJUSTING BOBBIN WINDER
Correct
Incorrect
Incorrect
The thread must be wound onto the bobbin
evenly.
If the thread piles up at the bottom, loosen
the fixing screw of the winder tension and
set the tension a little higher.
.
ff-mure
...
thT^arf'irwoorvd-on-at'-the-top
bobbin, push the winder tension down a
little.
After adjustment, do not forget to tighten
the fixing screw!
To locate fixing screw, open face plate. This
screw is directly under bobbin winder thread
guide inside the top cover.
hof-thi
Set the winder stop so that the bobbin is
filled to about % with thread. The bobbin
must stop turning when the required amount
of thread is wound. If the amount of
thread is not correct, loosen the screw and
move the winder stop as shown in the
illustration at the right.
12
LESS MORE
Page 15
THREADING TOP THREAD
Place spool on spool pin as shown, with
thread coming from the back of the
spool.
Draw thread through top thread guides.
Holding spool stationary with right
hand, pull the end of the thread between
the tension discs as shown above (3).
Pull the end of the thread taut with left
hand. This will pull the spring wire up
and past the end of the hook. The
thread will then slip into the hook when
the spring is released as in (4).
Release spool of thread and thread
machine through take-up lever (5) and
thread guide ¡6) as shown above. Thread
then passes through guides (7) and (8).
1. Remove ihe extension table from the
machine by pulling it to the left.
Open the shuttle cover by pulling
down the embossed part on the left
side of the cover.
2. Raise needle to its highest position
by rotating hand wheel toward you.
3. To remove bobbin case from shuttle,
pull open latch of bobbin case.
Insert bobbin into bobbin case
making sure thread is coming from
bobbin as shown.
Pull thread through slot of case as
shown.
Pull thread under tension spring.
Holding latch open, position case
into shuttle, and release latch. Case
should lock into place when latch
is released.
Thread loosely m left hand and rotate
hand wheel toward you one complete
turn.
2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling
upper thread.
3. Pull both threads under and to the
back of the presser foot, leaving 3
to 4 inches of thread clear.
If you cannot pick up bottom thread
by following steps given above, then
check:
1. is needle threaded from front to
back?
2. is thread tangled around needle?
3. Is there 3 to 4 inches of thread com
ing from the bobbin case?
4. Is thread from bobbin case tangled?
15
Page 18
THE PATTERN SELECTOR
The desired pattern can be selected by turning
the pattern selector dial. The marks on the dial
correspond to the patterns shown on the panel
respectively, as follovv’s:
^ (
----------
B (
) Straight stitch, small stitch
----------
) Straight stitch, middle stitch
...............
p I /wvyv| Zig Zag stitch with middls width
E { VW) Zig Zag stitch with large width
F {wwvwl Zig Zag stitch with Narrow width
C Cl ^ E Automatic buttonhole sewing
G if/wA) Stretch blindstitch
H (77^//') Overlockstitch
Probably the most important control on
your machine is this one that regulates
your top thread tension.
There are many reasons for having to
reset your tension. The best tension for
one fabric may not be correct for
another. The required tension depends
upon the stiffnessof the fabric, thickness
An ideal straight stitch will have
threads locked between the two
layers of fabric.
Upper thread too tight
Ifr-
------1)---___
------
being sewn, as well as the type of stitch
you are making.
It is best to test the stitching on a scrap
of the fabric you are using before starting
to make a garment. Use the straight
stitch function as shown at the right.
ADJUSTING BOBBIN TENSIONS
Bobbin tension requires adjusting less
frequently than the upper thread ten
sion.
If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam
is puckered, it may be necessary to
loosen the tension on both the top and
bottom threads. Be sure to balance
them.
When adjusting the tension on the bobbin
case, make slight adjustments with a
screw driver.
Decrease Tension
Upper thread too loose
18
Page 21
REGULATING THE PRESSER
FOOT PRESSURE (Patch-O-Matic)
To release the pressure, push ring iA)
downwards. The machine is now free
from any pressure of the presser foot.
For sewing medium or light materials, push
regulator |B) down just a little to provide
the light pressure required.
If you are sewing thick or heavy materials,
push the regulator (B) farther down to
increase the pressure on the material.
ring (A)
PRESSER FOOT LEVER
To aid you in the placement of heavy
fabrics, under the presser foot, the lever
can raise foot beyond the normal "up”
position. This is also an aid in changing
your presser feet.
19
Page 22
PART li START SEWING
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the acces
sories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new
sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to
sew:
1. Test the needle it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. Select
the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change
your needle frequently. Many of the
to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see Fhal the erTds 5f thé fhréads have
been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads
during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should
be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension
suitable to your fabric.
;
4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to
the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam
marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam.
new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot
control, the faster the machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or
hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.
20
.-s-
Page 23
Keeping Stitching Straight
Your machine has three aids to help
keep your stitching straight, whether
stitching seams or doing decorative
stitching.
* Numbered guidelines on the right
side on needle plate.
Numbers indicate distance, in eights
of an inch, form the needle. For 5/8"
seam, line up your fabric with the
numbered 5/8" guideline.
Pin Basting
Place pins at right angles to presser foot
with pins just nipping into fabric at
stitching line. Never place pins on
underside of fabric in contact with
fabric feed or so presser foot rides
over head of pin.
21
Page 24
STRAIGHT STITCH
Presser foot
Pattern selector
Stitch length dial
You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of sewingtemporary and permanent.
1. Temporary stitching-Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a
single layer of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are;
2. Perfflinent stitching. This is the^acluaJ^stitching^tbat-holds-ths-ga^nnent-t'Ogethef:
Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must
be good looking.
The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10-12 stitches per inch.
This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length dial. '
You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiple layers of
fabric and thicker seams. Some of these seams are:
When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness, sew
slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area.
...................
.............
............
Basting
Stay stitching
Guide line marking
Common two layer seams
Curved two layer seams
Top stitched three layer seams ■
Top stitched four layer seams
.........A(-----------
.........0.3-4
)
.......
Starting Sewing
1. Be sure both the threads are drawn
back under the presser foot.
2. While holding the threads with your
left hand, turn the hand wheel
toward you to bring the needle into
the fabric where you wish to start
sewing.
3. Lower the presser foot, and press the
speed controller gently, then start
sewing slowly.
*Sew a few reverse stitches by pushing
reverse button for reinforcing the
end of seams.
22
Page 25
Basting
Machine basting is very useful for join
ing seams for trial fittings, marking
construction guidelines, and basting
pleats and hems.
Use longest stitch possible, setting
*v
stitch length at 4. Loosan tension on
upper thread. Choose thread color to
contrast with your fabric so it can be
easily seen.
Basting stitches can be removed easily
by clipping upper thread, then pulling
...outJtiwer-ibread,
__________________
__
Staystriching ’
Staystitching prevents stretching and
acts as a guideline for clipping and
joining curved edges. Staystitch any
edge that might stretch during handl
ing before the final stitching.
Staystitch on a single layer of fabric;
always stitching in the direction of the
grain. Place stitching 1/8" away from
seamline in the seam allowance. Use
12 stitches per inch for most fabrics.
Changing Sewing Directions
1. Stop the machine, and turn the
hand wheel toward you to bring
the needle down into the fabric.
Raise the presser foot.
2. Pivot the fabric around the needle to
change direction as desired.
3. Lower the presser foot and continue
the sewing.
Fastening Seams
1. For fastening the ends of seams,
press down the reversing button and
sew several reverse stitches.
2. To remove the fabric, raise the presser
foot and draw the fabric away from
you.
3. Sever threads on thread cutter at the
rear of presser bar or with a pair of
scissors.
Leave about 15 cm (6 inches) of
thread hanging from the needle eye.
Page 26
ZIG-ZAG STITCHING
Presser foot
Pattern selector
Stitch length dial
This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature
that enables you to overcast seams, applique and sew on buttons. Using the range
of widths as indicated on the pattern selector, you can sew any width you desire.
Since this IS a range, you may set the dial between the illustrated widths.
..........................
....................
...................
zigzag foot
D{AMWv)
0.3 - 4
OVERCASTING
This is one of the more frequently used
zigzag stitches in garment construction.
You may want to overcast along the raw
edge of each seam allowance or fold the
raw edge toward the garment and stitch.
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
just short of the outside edge. Raw or
worn edges of older garments can be
overcast to prevent further raveling.
INTERFACING DARTS
To reduce bulk of interfacing darts, cut
interfacing down center between dart
lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line
from point to wide end of dart. Trim
both raw edges close to stitching.
24
Page 27
CHECKING TENSIONS
The easiest way to check tensions is to
sew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabric
you will be using.
Use the appropriate type of thread and
needle. Use different colors of thread
on the bobbin and upper spool.
Sew a line of medium zig-zag stitches.
The bobbin thread should not show on
..tbe.ioo-o£.ibe..f3bcic.................
Adjust the top tension if necessary to
achieve the stitch formation mentioned
above.
...................
UNDESIRABLEDESIRABLE
TOP SIDE OF FABRIC
25
Page 28
SATIN STITCHING
Presser foot
Pattern selector. . . .
Stitch length dial. . .
Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. This is an attractive stitch
used for appliqueing, bar tacking or sewing on buttons.
Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension of
the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch sewn the looser the tension.
If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper
..............
.. .zigzag foot
. . ,D( )
.. .0.3 to 1
Ae,.maiMaLwilLtejJirnJnaied^
and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the top side of the fabric.
It is best to practice a sample design on a fabric scrap before sewing design on
garment.
APPLIQUEING
SETTINGS ,
Same as with Satin Stitching
Select an applique design to be applied
to your garment and baste it in place.
Satin stitch around the raw edge of the
applique completely covering the edge.
You may want to do this with a con
trasting color of thread or self color.
BAR TACKING
This stitch is similar to a very short satin
stitch and is used to reinforce points of
strain such as corners of pockets and
straps on lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
26
Page 29
STRETCH AND UTILITY STITCH SEWING
STRETCH STITCHING
When sewing knitted or stretch fabrics, choose one of the stretch stitches which
allows the seam to stretch with the fabric without breaking the thread. Select
polyester or cotton covered polyester thread which has an extra amtount or give
and is designed for knits and stretch fabrics.
It is recommended, when sewing stretch fabrics, that a special needle with blue
shaft is used. This will prevent skipping stitches. Also refer to Needle, Thread
and Fabric Chart on page 8 to be sure that you use correct size needle and thread.
Pattern selector...........................................= E = =
Stretch straight stitch is a triple lock
stitch, combining stretchability and
strength. Use for stitching regular
seams in knits and stretch fabrics.
Use for stitching seams in woven fabrics
that receive a lot of strain when worn,
such as side seams, crotch seams, and
armholes in sportswear and children's
clothes.
Also use for topstitching when you
want a heavier row of stitching with
out using buttonhole twist.
Guide fabric gently allowing machine
to make the back-and-forth stitches
that gives stretch to the seam.
27
Page 30
SMOCKING STITCH
Presser foot....
Pattern selector.
.zigzag foot
With a narrow strip of fabric directly
under the line of gathering, stitch
over the gathers. The design will be a
series of small diamonds.
When smocking a garment, the stitching
should be done before the piece is sewn
iritb the garment.
Overlook stitch is used for finishing
seam edges in fabrics that stretch. Also
can be used to replace both straight
stitching and zig-zag overcasting in
knitted sports wear, lingerie, and hand-
knitted garments. Makes a thin, flexible
seam that stretches.
29
Page 32
SEWING BUTTONHOLES
The buttonhole mechanism built-in this machine makes it possible to sew button
holes in a short time without turning the material.
Presser foot
Pattern, selector
buttonhole foot for sewing buttonholes.
Mark the location and the desired length of buttonhole on the fabric using a pencil
or tailor's chalk.
Note:*To find the most suitable stitch
length, it is better to sew a
sample buttonhole on a piece of
waste fabric.
‘When sewing very fine fabrics
and synthetics, decrease the
pressure of foot and use a tissue
paper underlay to prevent yarn
distortion.
....................................
.............................
foot md the neadls to its highest position. Replace the foot with the
buttonhole foot
Buttonhole foot
30
Page 33
SEWING BUTTONHOLES (continued)
1. Set the pattern selector at " E Then
pass the needle thread through the
opening in the buttonhole foot and draw
both needle and bobbin threads to the
left side. Turn the hand wheel towards
laise the foot. Raise the needle to its
lighest position. Replace the foot with
;he hemmer foot.
Trim..and..straighten
...............................
.........................A(----------
........................
...
-poT
hemmer foot
1 to 4
»asy insertion sf 'fabric in hfmmer
=oot, first cut off corner of fabric. Then
■old edge of fabric over about 1/8", then
'old it over again for a length of 2".
nsert fabric fold into spiral opening of
lemmer foot. Move fabric back and
'orth until the fold forms a scrolled
ihape. Draw fabric toward you until
beginning of hem is underneath needle.
_ower foot.
stitch slowly as you guide fabric into
temmer foot. Do not push or pull fabric,
f edge of material tends to slide out of
lemmer, guide it to the right. If too
■nuch material enters hemmer, draw
'abric to the left.
)
34
Page 37
MENDING
MENDING AND DARNING
Presser foot
Pattern selector
Stitch length dial....................................1 to 2
both sides of the tear. When mending a
three-cornered tear, stitch from each
end to the center. It is well to use a
piece of fabric under the tear for
reinforcement.
. .zigzag foot
. A(
-----------
.2 to 3
Push down the outer ring of the pressure
regulator. This will release the pressure
on the presser foot.
Stretch fabric between embroidery
hoops with hole centered. Lower presser
bar and sew at a slow speed moving
fabric back and forth with a steady
rhythm to cover darning area. When it
is covered, turn fabric 1/4 a turn and
sew layer of stitching across first layer.
If fabric is thin or badly damaged in
hole area, you may want to put a separate
piece under the hole for reinforcement.
Be sure to return pressure on presser
foot to original adjustment after darn
ing.
Page 38
EMBROIDERY
Remove presser foot
Pattern selector
Lower the presser foot lifter. Hold the
embroidery hoop firmly with your hand.
While sewing the desired pattern, move
the embroidery hoop slowly and do not
, allow your fingers to getnsar themeedle.
*Set the needle thread tension a little
looser so that the bobbin thread is
not pulled through to the right side
of fabric.
*lt is recommended to mark the required
embroidery pattern on the right side of
the fabric with a pencil^or tailor's chalk.
.........................................
A(
36
Page 39
PART III CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE
CLEANING FEED DOG AND SHUTTLE
Lever
Shuttle Assembly
Lever
Fig. 1 Cleaning the feed dog with a
brush.
To insure the best possible operation
of your machine, it is necessary to keep
the essential parts clean at all times.
Using a small brush, remove the lint that
accumulates in the
around the feed dog.
Fig, 2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly
To Clean the Shuttle Area:
1. This area must be kept free of dust,
lint and occasional tangled thread.
Raise the needle to its highest
point and remove the bobbin case.
2. Push levers of shuttle race aside and
lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out.
3. Clean the shuttle race with small
brush.
4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of
the shuttle and shuttle race. Isee
■ arrows).
........
shuttle area and
Shuttle Race Cover
Pointed
hook Shuttle
To Replace Shuttle Assembly:
1. Position shuttle race as illustrated so
that race is forming half moon on
the left side of the machine.
2. Hold shuttle by center pin and posi
tion shuttle so as to form a half moon
on the right side. Pointed hook will
be on the bottom.
3. Place shuttle race cover into place
over shuttle assembly.
4. Snap the levers into position.
Page 40
OILING
As is the case with all precision machinery, it is necessary for maximum efficiency
to property oil and clean at reasonable intervals. Even though the machine is not
in constant use, it is important to oil your machine since the oil will dry after
standing over a period of time. Use a good grade of sewing machine oil.
NOTE: Before oiling, clean away all lint or foreign matter. One or two drops of
oil are sufficient at each point.
The machine should be oiled at the arrow points shown. After you have
cleaned and oiled your machine, it is advisable to run the machine at high
speed so that the oil will penetrate all moving parts.
: After cleaning and oiling machine, wipe away all excess oil and sew on a
scrap of material to be sure machine sews cleanly.
nside Face Plate
jewing face plate open and
)il all moving parts at
riction points.
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