SINGER W1260 User Manual

UJHITE

MODEL 1260

WHITE SEWING MACHINE

Record in space provided below the Serial No.
and Model No. of this appliance.

The Serial No. is located on Base plate
The Model No. is located on Base plate

Serial No .

Model No 1260 '
Retain these numbers for future reference.

____________________

_

MODEL 1260:

SUGGESTED RETAIL .

.. DLR 399.00

MODEL 1240:

SUGGESTED RETAIL

. DLR 349.00

MODEL 1220:

SUGGESTED RETAIL ..

. DLR 299.00

USING THE FOOT CONTROL

TO CONNECT THE FOOT CONTROL WIRES
' abo";" '"“fine aa shown in diagram

! *^'“9 to electrical outlet.

Whan sew,ng, kaeg children's hands away from foo. control and

• After sewing, disconnect plug from electrical outlet.

TO USE THE FOOT PEDAL:
* *°ward you and apply

^ gradually increasing pressure to foot pedal.

Sewing at a constant speed will give best results.

то ATTACH AND REiVîOVF Tur

■ PUTE:

remove ,he e«e„sion рй,е°" bed. and ou« ,o°,pVïï*ï

™E МДСН.МЕ

into the rab,n™° 9’boOine when

DOW^Ctocf»“"'"'

ГЯЕН ARM RHAture;

you use it on the table

or install it

TC

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TUBULAR SEWING

• The froo -,

I he free arm desian s' i- •

s^Ty ''

eew. -e ,.ems ova, ,ь,

_____

_

2

I

I

TO/

• Al

• Lc

as

FLAT BED SEWING .

• When the extension plate is attached,
you have all the advantages of a flat bed

machine for sewing flat items,
and for sewing large tubular
items such as flared pant legs.

CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT

Raise needle bar to highest
position and raise presser

foot as shown.

The extra lift for heavy fabric
makes it easier to place fabric

under the presser foot.

F

E

A

T
U
R

E

S

A

N

D

P

A

R

T

S

TO REMOVE THE PRESSER FOOT
* Press button on back of presser foot

shank and foot will drop from shank
as shown above.

• It is not necessary to loosen the thumb

screw to change presser foot.

TO ATTACH THE PRESSER FOOT:

• presser foot to shank as shown above
as sho>Snlbove°.°* ^“^°'^atically attach to foot

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

Always make sure needle is straight. «.iriar« and see
To ch^k straightness of needle, lay

Iharneedle is straight and parallal as shown ,h above diagrant.

. Needle

&0

. Flat side towards

Clamp Screw

back of machine

MC

MC

MC

Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle bar to its highest posi­i^n needle clamp screw and insert -edle upward as ^ar as it win

go, making sure flat side of needle .s towards back of machine as
shown in the above diagram.

Tighten needle clamp screw with screwdriver.

Follow the same procedure for insertion o m •

To make sore that needle

»nt o,X'’r,Se"ole“ the needle plate as shown in the above
ISrseleotor dial most be set in straight sti.eh needle positior

when checking needle alignment. ¡-„.„„Brtlv inserted
If skipped stitches occur, needle may be incorrectly msertea.

WINDING THE BOBBIN

TO DISENGAGE THE HAND WHEEL:

• Hold the hand wheel (1) with left hand, turn clutch

counterclockwise with right hand to disengage as shown.

(2)

TO WIND THREAD ONTO BOBBIN:
' tou? the hole in

vour bobbin from the inside out.

• Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft (3).

^ fne bobbin winder to the right.

• tS ®I ™ke thread

disengage bobbin winder.

I pressure on foot pedal until automatic shut off

• Cut off loose end of thread.

CHAWGING THE BOBBIN

TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN FROM BOBBIN CASE

• Raise needle bar to its hiqhest oosition Rnhhin
_ removed when needle bar fs anorposiion "

sTarsKi::°rve““

• Remove bobbin from bobbin case by releasing latch.

Draw tí
into thf

as sho\

Ml

Ml

Ml

Notch

Latch

TO ATTACH THE BOBBIN CASE

.* ^ from bobbin.

Thread bobbin as shown on page{ 7 )

cte :%Te;!irrao:t h^idto h’hi=''“’
bln ease finger is ineTde she '=nn-"'

as far as possible pn,i, ia.eb oatebes on

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Pull thread at least 3 inches from bobbin.
Insert bobbin in bobbin case so that

thread will unravel clockwise.

Fig. 1

. Slot

Pull thread into slot of bobbin case
as shown in Fig. 2.

• Thread

Fig 2

Draw thread under the tension spring and
into the fork-shaped opening of the spring

as shown in Fig. 3.

Pull thread through hole in bobbin case

finger as shown in Fig. 4.
(Recommended for zigzag sewing only)

Fig. 4

TO ADJUST BOBBIN TENSION

Turn screw on side of bobbin

case clockwise to increase
tension.

Turn screw on side of bobbin

case counterclockwise to

decrease tension.

Tension Spring

Fig. 3

F.g. 5

CORRECT

INCORRECT
TOP TENSION TIGHT
BOTTOM TENSION LOOSE

INCORRECT
TOP TENSION LOOSE
BOTTOM TENSION TIGHT

UPPER THREADING

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Raise needle bar to its highest position.

tS'through top plate thread guide (1) and between tension

pSTthiLd down around arm thread guide 13) and up to take-up

Lead thread through eyelet on take-up lever from right to left and
down through face plate guide (5), ^d^through

Pull thread down through needle clamp guide I6) and througn
needle hole from front to rear ¡7).

Always use the same type of thread on top and bonom as différer
si2es or types of thread will cause tension problems.

Example: Polyester thread on the bobbin and cotton thread on

will result in poor tension quality.

TWIN NEEDLE UPPER THREADING

• Follow threading instruction for single needle with these exception.

• Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on both spool pins.

• Draw threads through thread guides as normal, but separate the

threads at the tension.

• Pass on thread through the left disc and one thread through the right
disc. ®

ZIGZAG DIAL: Set at desired width between "0" and "3," if you set
dial higher than 3, the needle will hit the needle plate and break
STITCH LENGTH: Set at desired stitch length.

threads as one until you reach the needle eyes.

ADJUSTING FEED DOG HEIGHT

/

’ is used for normal sewing. To raise feed

’ pSon"” ,0 pppe,

PICKING-UP LOWER BOBBIN THREAD

Raise presser foot.
Holding upper thread, turn
hand wheel toward you

one rotation.
When take-up lever is at its

highest position, pull thread
to pick up loop of lower
bobbin thread.

AD.

Pull both upper and lower thread

to the left of" presser foot ap

proximately 6 inches.

This will prevent jamming.

regulating pressure

Fig. 2

' foot raSrd bTthe"

least amount of preaLr^whi e thp n / Sives the

pressure. ^ Oi^'es maximum

' To ir

numi

. To d

wer r

Turni

mal s

Note:

"hVdS t

M

snap lock ring (2) to allow the Pressure, press down on the
Nofm'll'^H^ -et to the

M

M

layer offe'bdc^irndrtoTus'h'out fC^^^ '°P

fabric, Pressure should be decreased This nft k

fabrics, such as wools, and on knits ' ^ " happens on bulky

A perfec
ing in fat

When u£

decrease

expense <

10

ADJUSTING UPPER TENSION

* ^PPer tension, turn upper tension regulator to higher

* wtiimS regulator to a lo
* ^eflu'ator from "0" to "9" will increase tension. Nor

mal sewing IS performed between "4" and "5".

Note: Normal stitches will be performed on the red zone at 4 5 and

6 for regular cotton threads. ' i

Kg. 1.

Prop« Tension

Fig. 2

Uk>« Thread Tension Too Loose

Fig. 3

Upp« Thread Tension Too Tight

ing in fabric as shown in Fig. 1.

»f’^eads interlock

decma-w^Trfr. embroidery (satin stitching),
exwnsa of tie bo?Zs”rfice.

11

tV'-

S S 2

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE CHART

NEEDLE (Long Scar«

FABRIC

DELICATE - lull«,chiffon, voilt, fin« Ik:«, orgmdy, iKwn.crop«, t*H«t«

Knits — ih««r tricot

LIGHTWEIGHT - baiitM, organdy, voil«, t«ff«t«, silk, crop«, chiffon, v«lv«t

KNITS - tricot, brushad tricot, (arsays. lynthatic laathari. powar nat

M

LEATHERS - plastic film, vinyls

MEDIUM WEIGHT - flinflham. parcal«, Mnan. chinti.lilH«, Mtln. cofAifoy, valvet, luitlngi, wooU.

piqua. tafry
KNITS - iariay. doubt« knit po*v«r nat. bathing suits
LEATHERS — vinyls, plastic film

MEDIUM HEAVY - gabardina, twaad sailcloth, danim, duck, coatings, wools, tkwiory.

KNITS - doobla knit, powar nat _

LEATHER - vinyl, rubber backed drapery fabric
HEAVY - ovarcoatings, canvas, upholstery, awning

KNITS - faka furs, valours, stweatar
1 FATHERS - vinyls, plastics

________________________________________________________

___________________________________________

HAx, 130/705H

European

3 70

light ball point

11 80

light ball point

Wedge point

14 »0

light or medium

ball point

Wedge point

16 100

heavy ball point

Wedge point

18 110

heavy ball point
Wedge point

THREAD

Fin« mercerlied 60
European 60—70
"A" Silk
Fine Synthetics

Fin« marcerizad 60
European 60—70
FIna Synthetics

"A" Silk

Marcariiad 60

European 30

"A" Silk

Synthetic

Marceruad 60
Heavy Duty Mercerized
European 30

••A’ Silk

Synthetic

Haavy Duty Mercerized

European 30

Synthetic

STITCH

LENGTH

1-1/4-1-3/4

1- 3/4-2

2- 1/2 -3

1- 3/4 - 2

2- 1/2-3

2-2 -1/2

2 -1/2-3

2 -1/2-4

V* -.‘f

• I

- I- *■*» ■

,1 ,*■ .

Point

Eyt

Short Groova
(Flit Si di of N«edli)

Shift

r

Long Groovi
(Round Sidi of Niidli)

Body

)

MT

to

LongGroovi-

Flit

eioogitid Scirf.

■ Short Groovi-

Rtgulir Siirp
Niidli

All purpoM
Niidli

Midlum Ball

Point Niidli

Widgi Point

Niidli

"ifflriWlil Ml A'vVil MMA

0)H33>-D OZ> WmDöCH>mTi

FUNCTIONS OF CONTROLS

NEEDLE POSITION AND PATTERN
SELECTOR DIAL

• Raise needle bar to highest position by

turning hand wheel toward you.

• Select desired pattern and needle

position.

• Selector dial can be turned either

clockwise or counterclockwise.

ZIGZAG WIDTH CONTROL DIAL

• For wider zigzag stitch, select a higher

number.

• When twin needle is used, zigzag must
be limited between positions "0" and
"3" on the dial (use of twin needle
in position higher than "3" will result
in needle striking needle plate).

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STITCH LENGTH CONTROL DIAL

• Numbers on dial denote length of stitches.

• To increase length of stitch, turn dial to higher number.

STITCH LENGTH GUIDE

Numbers on dial
Stitches per inch No Feed 24

REVERSE STITCH BUTTON:

• Use for reverse stitching or tacking.

• Keeping button pressed in will allow you to sew reverse stitcl
same length as forward stitch. t

0

1

2

12

3

8

4
6

14

APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT STITCH

SEAMS
The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should

depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require
!onger stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches

or cu^ed seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add

strength and elasticity to the seam.

Panetn:

------

Length; 2—4

Width: 0
Feed Dog:.AA_

Pressure: Normal
Fool: All Purpose

Needle Position; 2

SASTING/TOPSTITCHING --------- _
iewing a Mam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior
to fitting^ Basting stitches also may be used when gathering in fullness.

Topstitching can be done very effectively with the long straiqht stitch
Fo. a bolds, smeh, bvo ,h,s,da of the same ^pe Sn ttreadecl

ri°“mavbL"seif“ 'f“® * »«»«f thread Such as bodoohole
K oMSl i “ ““ = '=tge, needlelslae

• Left needle position may be used for more support of fabric.

Pattern;------

Length: 4
Width: 0
Feed bog:_j^A

Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position; 2 or 1

DARNING

Worn spots or small holes can be darned very easily. Use of an

mbrordery hoop Is op„or«| peps„di„g „„ 7h. lairic A fine thread

together invisibly

.rlTt hH area to be darned. Hold tS

s irs w«.

anaini irm“ ' ™ , »'»»“slonal result will ba

After mUna inlhT^ ^ ^ ^^>“6 sewing,

same manor, " '«"S''’™“. with crosswise sfifehes in ,he

Pattern:

........

Length: 0
Width: 0
Feed Doq:'Xy
Pressure: Darn
Foot: None or All

Purpose

Needle Position: 2

15

ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING
Wind elastic thread onto bobbin, as shown, let
ting the thread pass through your fingers. The
thread should be wound smoothly without stret
ching. Place bobbin in case as usual, being sure
that the elastic is drawn through the tension. Use
regular thread on the top of the machine. Do a
trial run on the chosen fabric to test length of
stitch. Lay a piece of paper under the fabric to

keep it from gathering up as you sew; This will
enable you to sew many parallel rows of stitching
without difficulty. Afterwards tear out the paper
and the fabric will be gathered.

Panem:

-----­Length: 3—4
Width:0
Feed Dog:_AiL.
Pressure: Normal
Foot: AM Purpose
Needle Position: 2

• HOLDING THE FABRIC
For most fabrics, it is not
necessary to hold the fabric in
both front and back. Merely
guide the fabric with one hand
from the front.

For the fine delicate fabrics,
such as chiffon, geogrette, and
tricot, the best resits will be at
tained by holding the fabric in
front and back of the needle
without pulling on it.

• TURNING CORNERS

To pivot at a corner, leave the
needle in the fabric while on the
upswing so that the stitch is
almost completed, thus preven
ting the possibility of skipped stit
ches in the corner. Lift the
presser foot and pivot the fabric.
Then, lower the presser foot and

continue sewing.

•

• CURVED SEAMS
On a curved seam use a slightly shorter stitch length than you are using
for the rest of the seams. For example, if length 2 is being used for the
seams, a 1-1/2 stitch length would be preferred for curves. A smaller

stitch length will add strength and elasticity to the seam.
When guiding the fabric, keep your fabric edge on the etched seam
guide line directly across from the needle rather than on the forward part
of the line. The seam guide may be used on an angle as shown.

16

• ENDING SEAM/REMOVAL OF FABRIC

f P'^ess the reverse stitch button and
bav-kstitch for a stttches to reinforce the end of the seam

Turn the hand wheel until the take-up lever is in its highest position so'
that the stitch is completed and the threads will pull freely Lift the
nre^er foot and remove the fabric by drawing the threads to tie 1^! and

jck keeping them under the foot so as not to bend the needle Cut the

thread ends three to four inches long.

^ b®®*« of the presser bar. Leave the

APPLICATIONS OF THE ZIGZAG STITCH

OVERCASTING

Place the edge of the material underneath the
ooening of the sewing foot and guide raw edge
uiong the center groove of the foot, allowing

stitch to form half on and half off the fabric
The multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser choice for

most fabrics. See page(21).

Patiern; AM
Lenght: 2-4

Width: 4-5

Feed Oog:.AA.

Pressure: Normal
Foot; All Purpose
Needle Position: 2

SEAMING KNITS ,

The narrow zigzag can be used in seams of firm
knits for added strength. After sewing, open
Mam and press flat. Tiny zigzag stitches can
hardly be seen and the seam will give when stret

ched. I

Pattern: /W\
Lenght: 2

Width: 1-2

Feed Dog: a a

Pressure: Normal

Foot; All Purpose
Needle Position; 2

17

i

Ik

SEWING ON BUTTONS
Zigzag stitching is a very easy and convenient
method of sewing on button without a shank.

Place the button so its left hole comes directly
under the needle, then gently lower the button
sewing foot. Take a stitch in the hole.
Raise the needle and move zigzag width dial to
the right until the needle comes down exactly
over the right hole in the button.

Note: Be sure the needle dears the holes of the

button by moving the hand wheel by hand
before running the machine fast.

Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for securing
a button in place. Stop with the needle in the left

hole. To lock the threads, set the stitch width at

0, and take a few stitches in the left hand hole.

Pattern: /SAA
Lenght: 0
Width: 2-5
Feed Dog: ZZ
Pressure: Normal
Foot: Button Foot
Needle Position; 1

_____

FORMING THREAD SHANK ON BUTTON
Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should have a
thread shank to make them stand away from the
fabric. To form a thread shank, sew over a pin or

rounded toothpick which can be inserted directly
into the button sewing foot.

After stitching the button to the fabric, remove
work from under the presser foot leaving threads
about six inches from fabric. Remove pin or

toothpick. Pull the threads to back of button and
form a shank between button and fabric by
winding threads tightly around the attaching stit
ches. Pull threads to back of the fabric and ther

tie thread ends securely.

18

SATIN STITCHING
This is useful for decoration such as tapering

manual designed embroidery, monogramming

and applique.

The satin stitch, which is a very close zigzag

>titch, IS obpined by setting the stitch length as

-3f to 0 as possible without stopping the

reeding action. The setting will vary for different

fabrics. It may be desirable to loosen the upper
tension si.ghtly to cause the threads to lock

underneath, ,n order w make the top surface

iTOk especially smooth. For lightweight fabrics

TAPERING/CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
Tapering is done by gradually increasing and
decreasing the stitch width while sewing. By this

method, tapered monograms and other in
teresting designs can be created. For tapered
rnonograms run the machine fast while turning
the width dial slowly from narrow to wide and

back.
First, learn this stroke by letting the fabric guide

straight. Then, learn to pivot the fabric as you
are tapering by holding the fabric at one point.

strokes can be combined to form letters

and designs. Variegated thread can give attrac
tive results.

Pattern: /VV\
Length: % .

Width: t.5
Peed Dog:

Pressure: Normal
Foot: AM Purpose
Needle Position: 2

Panern; AAA

Lenght: X-’/3
Widlh: 0-5
Feed Dog: A a

Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position: 2.1 or 3

MANUAL EMBROIDERY DESIGNS

^3de by turning the

«Itch width dial between 0 and 5. By running the

achine at a constant speed and turning the dial

create?^'"'*® rhythm, various designs can be

IS

Pattern;
Length: x ■ '/,

Width; 0-5
Feed Dog:
Prssure; Normal
Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position; 2.

1 or 3

Patter
Lengtii: 0

WidUi: 1-5
Feed Dog: rx
Pressure: Dam
Foot: None
Needle: 2. 1 oi 3

FREE HAND M0N0GRAMA/1ING

For oivinn narmontc t:

For giving garments and linens a oersonaiboH u x-

_______

the right side of the fabric. An embroiderfhonni' transfer the design to

for soft fabrics and toweling. In orrinr to J recommended especially
slowly and run the machine rapidly ^^^ric

the paper under a stationary S Guide
Close together like a sati™sftch but bfclietoHto t^^

When guiding from side to side, move fabric slightly faster to'avoid°a heLy^'

s";™,“ e"'" t'brusl n'^^- “ letter is easy,
may make guiding the fabric easier The°n^^' under the fabric
cut away at the completion of the monogriri^Wh may be torn or

cellophane placed on the top will help co^ver innn^^" monogramming towels,
s-trootb, Pui, or out away re‘:nal„iig Xp"a'„°e°:r„‘',™iL'^‘

Step 1 -------

Pattern; /yy\
Length: 1 ~

Width; 0-1

Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot; All Purpose
Needle Position: 2

/

0\
Th

for

pre

be:
Th-

fat

gui

the

Step 2

Pattern: AAA
Length: % -1/3

Width; 2-4
Feed Dog: A.^
Pressure: Normal

Fool: All Purpose
Needle Position: 2

applique „5^

Applying decorative shapes of fahnV e u

's a very interesting way of trimminn^^^ household articles and clothing

the design on fabric to be appligued ?hpn P'^in article. First, trace
garment. With a small sSigh? S'or P'^^e on
transferred design. After excess abrir . t °'^ ®^°"nd the

appligue with a satin stitch Fnr a cm *''"^med away, sew around the

edge Of ,he curye To p”o, ,he"abric "o ' =' "'e Inside

?Hen''psr,red°”^

fabric when e,itching end can be <0гnГayX;^;?JГplhu7is°clSíed.

20

V

F

<

P.
Lt

V\

Ff
Pi
Ft

Pi

GATHERING OVER CORD
Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch often 1
breaks while pulling in fullness. A small zigzag

across a cord such as crochet thread or carpet I

thread, gives a much stronger cord for gathering

fullness into fabrics. Once the gathers have been I

stitched in place, the cord can be pulled out in I

order to eliminate bulk. '

Pattern: /SAA
Length: 2

Width: 3

Feed Dog:

Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position: 1

A A

APPLICATIONS OF THE MULTIPLE STITCH ZIGZAG

OVERCASTING
The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent choice

for overcasting. It keeps the fabric flat and

prevents raveling. For most fabrics, this stitch is

etter than the zigzag stitch for overcasting.

The stitch should fall right at the raw edge of the

fabric. Feed the fabric under the presser foot by
the hole in the presser foot.

along the right hand side of

Pattern: ,\'W
Length: % -114

Width: 4-5
Feed Dog: A4
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 5

a

Panern:

LOTgih: ’/,.1

Width: 4-5
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose

anern Selector: 5

PATCHING

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent stitch
for patching It is stronger than the zigzag and

tS. matching
Place the patch over the right side of the worn or

rnultiple stitch zigzag letting the last stitch to the

ight overcast the edge of the patch. When turn

ing corners leave the needle in the fabric at the

the right or left. In this way, the corners are

furthest stitch to

i?sritchpT^®‘^i^"'^ patch

fahrir inlh" ^ ®«ess worn

fabric on the wrong side of the patch.

Note: Try Smocking Stitch for knits.

21

Pattern: /
Length: Near 0- %

Width: 4-5

Feed Dog: AA
Pressure: Normal
Fool: All Purpose

Panem Setector: 5

MENDING A TEAR OR INSTANT DARNING

The multiple stitch zigzag provides a strong and
easy repair for torn garments. It gives an almost
invisible mend, especially when a fine darning
thread is used.

To mend a tear, hold the torn edges close
together and stitch down the middle.

If the tear is guided under the slot in the middle
of the presser foot, stitching will be equal on
both sides. If necessary, sew again on either side
of the first row of stitching making sure the
needle catches the stitch in the center. With very
worn or frayed fabric, place a piece of light
weight interfacing or cotton batiste under the
tear for reinforcement.

Note: Try Smocking Stitch for knits.

LACE APPLICATIONS
Attaching laces or trims adds a special touch to
lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or baste laces in
place easing or mitering corners where neces

sary.
A straight edged lace or braid has a convenient

line to follow when sewing. When using a
scalloped edged lace follow the design of the

lace for an almost invisible application.

Note: Try Multiple Stitch Zigzag, Overlock,

Elastic Edge Stitch, Smocking stitch.
Stretch Overlock or Rick-Rack for differ
ent effects.

22

Pattern: /W\
Length: 1
Width: 1-2
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position: 2

A A

1

Pattern: a/V\

Length: %

Width: 4-5

Peed Dog: a a

Pressure: Normal
Poot: All Purpose

FLUTTER HEM

An unusual way of hemming or finishing edges
of tricot or soft knits is by a flutter edge. Hemm

ing in this manner is just like overcasting an
Mge, but the fabric is stretched in back and in
front of the needle as you sew. For best results,
pull the fabric equally, making sure the needle

goes over the edge. When you stop to reposition
your hands, keep the needle in the fabric.

ELASTIC APPLICATION

Applying elastic to lingerie or soft knit fabrics is

the^etesS fCut

№e elastic 2 inches smaller than your waist

measurement. Overlap the raw ends to form a

« 4hrs!II? f ® ^'92^9 to form a box

as shown. Fold the elastic into quarters or eiqhths

ine of the garment. Place the elastic about 1/2

Needle Position: 2

r V V

s

T
R

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T
C
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1

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1

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Pattern:

Length; %

Width: 4-5
Peed Don- AA

Pressure: Normal
Poot: All Purpose

Pattern Selector: '

1'/4

sTtchinn begin

each hand on the fabric at either side of the

and thi ® sewing over the elastic

elastic together as you sew. The amount of ease
IS dependent on how much you ease the fabric

Ivhich rfn "®®'^ ^^® elastic,

which can be damaged and stretched out of

the sfitch«. ®‘’°''® "®®^

-Smocit/hg stitch for

23

forefinger of

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UNDERSTITCHING FACINGS
The multiple stitch zigzag is' an excellent choice
for understitching and eliminating bulk in facing

seam allowances.
After attaching the facing to the garment, trim

and clip the seam allowance as usual. Press the
seam allowances toward the facing and use the

multiple stitch zigzag close to the seam, stitching

through the facing and the seam allowances.

Using a matching thread, the stitch will blend in
to the fabric and prevent excess bulk. This is
much more successful than a straight stitch for
understitching. It really helps to keep the facings
from rolling. ,

Note: Try SnKJcking Stitch for knits.

Pattern: АЛА
Lengrh; 1-2
lATidth: 4-5
Feed Dog: AA
Pressure: Normal
Fool: All Purpose.

Pattern Selector: 5

Step 1

Step 2

<" '>

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DECORATIVE EFFECTS
As with the blind hem stitch, the multiple stitch
zigzag can be used for many decorative combi
nations. If the stitch is pivoted when the needle
reaches the far left or right of its swing, and the
points are carefully matched, a tracery diamond
shape results.

On the other hand, if rows of the multiple stitch
zigzag are sewn with the points falling directly
under each other, a wavy pattern is produced.

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V

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Rowers may also be produced. Start in center;

pivot at points shown. Add four more petals if
desired.

Pattern: /Vv\
Length: 1-2%
Width: 3-5
Feed Dog: AA
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 5

24

APPLICATIONS OFTHE BLIND HEMSTITCH

BLIND HEMMING

Tha blind hem stitch provides a durable hem

‘ nish that is almost invisible on garments, drapes,

d cunains. It is done easily with straight or

Slightly curved hems. With a linie practice it will

be a very quick and easy hem application and the

hem will never need repairing.

Procedure:

• Prepare raw edge of hem in desired manner

such as overcast. 1/4 inch stitched under,

pinked, hem tape, or just plain. (Step 1)

6 Fold hem up desired length. Baste or pin 1/2

inch from upper edge. Press in place. (Step 2)

• back toward right side of fabric leav

ing about 1/4 inch extended. (Step 3)

• your stitch width and needle position

so that the zigzag bite of the stitch just slightly

catches the fold of the fabric. The straight

stitches should be formed on the single
thickness of fabric, and the zigzag bite should
catch just barely into the fold of the fabric at

the left.

> When stitching is completed, remove fabric

from machine and turn to right side. Press
completed hem.

JlJl

Step 2

Step 3

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When hemming an A-line skirt, place a machine

basting stitch along the raw edge of the hem. At

an ironing board, fold up the hem, matching the

seams. Ease in the excess fabric by pulling on

basting thread. Press with steam, then apply

hem tape. Baste or pin hem 1/2 inch from taped

■■dne, then continue into step 3.

Pattern: Jot.

Length: 1-2

Width: 3-5
Feed Dog: A A.
Pressure; Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 4

25

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SHELL TUCK
The blind hem stitch gives a vwy effective and

easy way to make a shell tuck for lingerie, pillow
cases, and decorative finishes. This works well
on knits or on the bias of soft, woven fabrics. A
single folded bias tape may be tucked in this

manner, and then applied under a fold for a
decorative hem on pillowcases or applied with
the facings at the neckline or armhole for a
decorative finish.

Set the upper tension dial to a little bit tighter
position than normal. Fold under the edge where
the shell tuck is to be created. Place the bulk of
the fabric to the right of the needle with the fold

ed edge to the left. Place the fabric so that the
folded edge will be guiding into the center cut
of the foot. The straight stitches will form on the
fabric, and the zigzag bite will swing to the left
off of the folded edge. The shell edge is created
as the needle swings back onto the fabric. The
size of the "shell" can be varied by changing the
stitch length.

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

By sewing two adjacent rows of blind hem stit

r-^

ching on lace or ribbon attractive decorations art

created. The stitch may be pivoted when tht

1-^4—^-+-^*1

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4- 4*

.

zigzag bite swings to the left and the points mat
ched in the second row.

Another variation alternates the zigzag bites it
the center of the straight stitched segment. Th.

stitch may also be pivoted after two straight stit
ches to form a snowflake-like pattern.

—y-. Panern: _A_A_

• ■ Length: 1-2

-~y—y—y—y—y—y—

Width: 4-5

Feed Dog;^
Premure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose

Panern:
Length; VA-2'A
Wkith: 4-5
Feed Oog:.AA.
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Panern Selector: 4

TOPSTITCHING EFFECTS

A new kind of topstitching effect can be produc
ed by couching a strand or two of pearl cotto
embroidery floss, or yarn with the blind hei
stitch. Simply guide the cord through the le
groove of the embroidery foot so that the blin

hem stitch sews over the cord and not throuc
it. The straight stitches of the blind hem stitc

will bury themselves along the right side of tf

cord. The sewing thread should match as close
as possible to blend into the fabric.

Panern: '

Length; 1-2

Width; 2-4

Feed Dog: JhA.
Pressure; Normal
Foot: All Purpose

Panern Selector; 4

26

DECORATIVE STITCHES

Combining rows of decorative stitch patterns is
an easy, inexpensive way to create your own
braids and trims for garments and household

articles. Blending or contrasting colors of thread i

o{>oo^oc{)co

DOOC

APPLICATIONS OF THE INTERLOCK

LINGERIE SEAM

For a very fine, delicate seam in nylon tricot or
jersey, the interlock is used. Lingerie or tricot
seams should only be about 1/8 inch in finished

width.
If your pattern has wide seams, trim them down

to 1/4 inch while cutting out the pattern. Guide
I. ,e raw edges of the fabric into the center slot of

■"e presser foot. On the right, the needle will
oh over the edge resulting in a finished 1/8

•ncn.

Pattern: АЛЛ.

Length: 1—1%

Width; 4-5
Feed Oog:,.AA.

Pressure; Normal
Foot: All Purpose

Ршвт Selecior; 6

may be used to compliment the color of the,

fabric. Illustrations will give some of the attrae­tive stitch combinations.

Panem: As desired
Length; As desired

Width: As desired
Peed Dog:

Pressure; Normal
Foot; Afl Purpose

' I Position: 2

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INSERTING LACE
A very fine lace insertion can be made with the

interlock. As in applying lace with the zigzag

stitch, follow the straight line or the design of the

lace. (See page 22). Sew so that the straight

stitch of the interlock is on the fabric and the
small zigzag catches into the lace.

Pattern: A_A_/\.

Length: 1-1%
Width; 2
Feed Dog:.^^^^

Pressure; Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 6

27

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APPLICATIONS OF THE STRETCH BUND HEM

HEMMING

The stretch blind hem stitch gives a stretchy,

durable hem finish to knit fabrics. The two tiny
zigzag stitches enable the hem to stretch with
the fabric. It may also prevent woven fabrics
from raveling. Proceed as for the regular blind
hem stitch on page 125).

Pattern:
Ler>gth:l-2

Width: 4-5
Peed Dog:
Pressure: Norrrtai
Fool: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 7

EDGING

The stretch blind hem stitch can be used as an
edging, like the blanket stitch done by hand. By
using a fairly short stitch length, the stitches lie
very close together. It can be used for over
casting and finishing the edges of tablecloths,
napkins and ruffles. The edge may be turned up
about 1/2 inch and then overcast with the
stretch blind hem. Cord or pearl cotton may be
used to give a raised effect to the stitches.
Simply place 2-4 strands of pearl cotton or em
broidery floss under the foot and stitch over it.

Pattern:
Length: %

Width: 4-5
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose

Pattern Selector; 7

EYELASH BUTTONHOLE

A unique way of reinforcing buttonholes on
loosely woven fabrics or buttonholes in which
the stitches have been accidently cut, is to over
cast them with a short stretch blind hem stitch,
(^ercast each side of the buttonhole so the far
right stitch falls into the opening of the button
hole arKl the small zigzag stitches cover the
previous buttonhole side. On completion of one
side of the buttonhole, pivot the fabric with the
needle at the far right in the opening of the
buttonhole at the bartack. Sew up the other side

in the same manner.

Pattern; *A»vV
Length: %

Width: 4-5
Feed Dog:.J^^
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 7

28

BUTTONHOLES

Various fabrics require various methods of
Mwing buttonholes. Four different methods
are given below, with suggested uses. If you

are in doubt as to which method is best for

your fabric, test the methods in question and

choose the best according to the finished

appearance. .

preparation

For the best results, a good quality merceriz

ed cotton thread should be used. Polyester

threads often result in puckered or heavy
unattractive buttonholes. The finer your
fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should
be. An interfacing should be used under the
buttonholes to give body, to strengthen, and
:o help them withstand wear. To establish
the correct length of the buttonhole, add the

diameter of the button (A), plus the thick

ness of the button (B), plus 1/8 inch for the

bartacks. The length may be marked on the
garment with a basting stitch, tailors chalk,
or transparent tape, as shown. Another way
iO make sure that all buttonholes will be the

same size is to cut a piece of cardboard as

wide as the buttonhole foot and long

enough to make the distance between the

toe of the white slide and the cardboard the
size buttonhole needed. This method works
for buttonholes up to 1-1/8 inches long.
Horizontal buttonholes should extend 1/8
inch beyond the center line of the garment.

Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the
cutting space of the buttonhole is directly on
the center line. Always make a practice

buttonhole on a scrap of the garment fabric
before making any buttonholes on your gar
ment. On your test sample, duplicate the
thickness found in the garment and be sure

to include the interfacing. The test sample
should help determine the length needed for

the button to pass through easily, and the
stitch length for the particular fabric. As with
the satin stitch, the stitches should be close
together, but not so close that they pile up.
Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.

mm''

29

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TjgzBg Wx3th Comroi Dial

BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLER

This buttonhoie eliminates the need for
pivoting the fabric. It is used most often on
light and medium woven fabrics.

1. Set the buttonhole control dial at the
(#2) buttonhole picture. Lower the
needle into the mark at the top end of the
buttonhole. Lower the presser foot. A
few stitches will be made for the banack.

#2, turn to # 1 than the stitching will sew

the left side in forward.
Stop when the stitching reaches the bot

tom end of marked buttonhole. At this
position the machine will be sewing in for

ward.

2. With the needle up, select the I # 4) four
buttonhole picture. A few banack stit
ches will be made, turn to 3 than the stit
ching will sew the right side in reverse.

If using cardboard the white nylon slide
will run into the carboard to prevent sew
ing into the banack.

3. To lock the stitch, make sure the needle is
out of the fabric. Make sure the pattern
control dial is at straight stitch and take a

few stitches.

4. Score the buttonhole with the back edge

of the seam ripper several times. To pre
vent cutting through the banack, insen a
straight pin through the banack. Cut
buttonhole open with the seam ripper.

Note: Stitch Width Control should always

be at "0" while sewing this button
hole.

Pattern: /VV\

Width; 4-5

i-eed Ooa; kX
Pressur: Normal

Foot; Buttonnole
Pattern Selector;

Adjustment of stitch density:
Check the stitch density on a scrao ot fabric.
If density is too ooen or too dose, re-aojust
bv turninc stitch lemtn o;al.

30

TURN-AROUND BUTTONHOLES

It is possiole to make small and dainty
buttonholes if you desire or repair damaged
buttonholes. This entails a slight shifting of

•he cloth but with some practice, good

uttonholes can be achieved.

1. Mark the length of the buttonhole on the

cloth as shown in figure.

2. Set the needle position to the left and
your stitch length dial near "7/4" or the

density your desire.

3. Choose the desired width of your botton-

hola

Example: if you want a buttonhole with a

width of # 3 setting on the stitch width
dial, divide this setting in half, or 1%

4. Start at your marked position, sew down
on the left side of buttonhole to the other
end of marking. Leave the needle in the

cloth at the right side of stitches and
rotate your cloth. Lift the presser foot and
slide the bottom of the foot back to the

front.

5

. Lower the foot and raise the needle.

Reset your stitch width dial to bartack, in

this case the # 3 setting, set your feed* to

ZX" sew several stitches.

6. Raise the needle, raise feed to, AA reset

the zigzag width to the initial setting, in
this case #114 and sew the other side of
buttonhole to your mark, then repeat your

bartack (5).

7. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches at

0 witdh. Cut buttonhole as indicated

previously.

When using this method over a buttonhole

•vhich has already been slit or damaged, be
sure to hold the buttonhole open and allow
the needle to go off the edge of the fabric.

Step 4 is all that may be needed to repair
damaged buttonholes.

Pattern: A/V\
Length:
Width:

Dog: AA.tt

Pressure: Normal

foot: Bunonhole
Needle Position: 1

Step 3

31

Step 4

CORDED BUTTONHOLES

Cording gives a reinforced raised button

hole. It is excellent for use on bulky, woven
fabric, or knits in which the stitching often
gets buried and makes cutting difficult. On

knits, a corded buttonhole will help keep the
fabric from stretching out of shape.

Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or

buttonhole twist to use for the cording. Pro
ceed as for either built-in buttonhole (page

30) or the-turnaround buttonhole (page 31).
having the cord under the prefer foot In
such a way that the zigzag stitch covers the
cord. When pivoting the bunonhole, also
swing the cord around to follow urtder the
second side.

At the completion df the buttonhole snip the
excess cord close to the bartack on woven
fabrics. For knitted garménts, always pull
the cords to the wrong side by using a darn
ing needle or needle threader, and knot the
cord ends before clipping.

Built-in Buttonholer:

Pattern: AAA
Length: C3
Width: 4-5
Feed Dog: AA
Pressure: Normal
Foot: Buttonhole

Pattern Selector: D-Q-Ш

Turn-around Buttonhole:

Pattern: A*V\
Length: I I

Width: 2V4-5-2'A-5-0
Feed Dog: A A­Pressure; Normal
Foot: Buttonhole
Needle Position: 1

32

STRETCH BUTTONHOLES

This buttonhole is used on knit fabrics when

It IS d^irable to omit interfacing or cordinq
TJis buttonhole will stretch and return to
shape unlike an ordinary zigzag buttonhole.

‘"® pattern of the stitch makes the

Duttonholes nearly invisible when using mat­chiftg thread. It is excellent to use on jerseys,

double knits, and sweater fabrics.

1. ^rk the length of the buttonhole on the

doth as shown in.

2. Select the overlock stitch (# ii)

length dial to 4.

4. The width should be set at 2%.

position, sew down

the left ade of the buttonhole to the other

th« in

the cloth at the right side of the stitches

fnw P^esser foot
and slide the bottom of the foot back.

6. Lower the presser foot and raise the

ne^le Reset your stitch width to make a

^teck at width 5. Set your feed dog to'

A* sew a few stitches.

7. Raise the needle, raise the feed dog to

AA , reset the width to 2% and sew the
^ond side of the buttonhole, to the end
of the buttonhole mark, reset the width to
5 *8 feed dog to SX and sew a few stit

ches for the second bartack.

® stitches at

previously.

*^® buttonhole as indicated

stitch

Panern: tKAnr
Length: 4

WWth: 254-5-2V4-&0

Feed Dog:^.jX.^_

Pressure Normal
Foot: Buttonhole

Panern Selector: 11

33

ScJ^AnS

SEAMS

STRAIGHT TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH

fi w streams a reinforcement stitch. It is ex

crotch s^ms. For active wear such as ski pants and

n*i T'' ^brics,

“ armholes and

fnd^tl? ® bending

throughout the garment. ”

CAUTION: It is difficult to remove this stitch from

■ Foot All Purpose
. Pattern Selector: 8

® be used for seaming

fabric. Pre-fit garment before using this
stitch.

Pattern; S r S
Length: 4
Width: 0
Peed Dog: aa
Preseure; Nomtal

TOPSTITCHING (STRETCH STITCHES)
Because this stitch is heavier than an ordinary

^«nwn SMcmr and

2eee Width ConBdi Dial

Pattern: S=H
Length: 4 ~

Width: 0

Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot; All Purpose
Pattern Selector;8

PROCEDURE:

* triple straight stitch is used when a

«might line of stitching is desired so that seams

TOy be pressed open (slacks for example).
This stitch IS especially useful where the tiny

ngzag seam will not hold its shape and the

straight stitch will break.

* Apply this stitch to areas of stress on both

’ n^i’f fitted garments that

and bathiig suhs.''"’'

* Sh foo"®straight

34

Zigzag Foot

Elastic Triple Straight Stitch

,'Г\г

Regular Straight Stitch

APPLICATION OF THE RICK-RACK

TOPSTITCHIIMG/RICK-RACK '

A decorative topstitch can be produced with the
rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of
the garment for a special effect. Topstitch braid or a

decorative inset to add an additional creative flair.

Panem: /¡TMAW
Length: 4
Width: 4-5

Dog: AA

Pressure; Normal

Foot: Al Purpose
Pattern Selector; 8

TAPERING/RICK-RACK

The rick-rack stitch may be tapered to form creative

stems and petals of flowers, embroidered pictures
and wall hangings. As in tapering the zigzag. See
Page |19), slowly turn the stitch width dial from 0
to 5 and back to 0. A group of these tapered rick
rack stitch vwll from a bouquet-like effect.

Pattern: MVAft
Length:4

VWdth: 0-5-0
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector 8

aa

Stitch Length

PROCEDURE:

The elastic rick-rack stitch is a zigzag line of stit
ching that is desired so that seams may be press

ed open.

Apply this stitch to areas of stress on both
wovens and knits.

Use narrow width of zigzag as a heavy duty triple
stitch for seams.

Use medium and wide widths of zigzag for over
casting edges of seams, facings and hems of
heavier weight fabrics such as terrycloth, and for

attaching elastic. Use also for decorative stit
ching.

35

Elastic Triple Zigzag Stitch

/Regular Zigzag Stitchj

Guide your fabric from the front.
Do not pull or push as it will

cause poor stitching.

STRETCH OVERLOOK

vw

methods proceed as you would for the overiock '

^page ¡37), except feed the fabric with the S

soft stretchy knits from rippling. .

SMOCKING STITCH |>0^

ThB Stitch IS very versatile and can be corded orl222S
used as a topstitch as other reveree stitch patterns.

SEAMING SMOCKING STITCH

The smocking stitch can be used to seam fine
gauze type fabrics or bulky sweater knits this

Follow the directions for overlock seam on Page

aniSlir^ieni

P»n«m: ./W

Length: 4

Width; 4-5
Feed Dog: jd^^_

Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector; 9

Pattern:
Length; 4

Width: 4-5
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 10

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ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING

iif ® '*«‘® 9'ris dresses can be shir
rs easily wth the smocking stitch. Place the right

side of the garment down on the bed of the
^chine. Place two strands of elastic thread under

wth the smocking stitch to gather cuffs or bodice
tor a feminine effect.

PROCEDURE:

• The smocking stitch is a very useful special ultra
stretch stitch.

® Lingerie or tricot seams should only be about 1/8

inch finished width.

• achieved by joining the folded

^ge of two piece of fabric together with a gap
be^een them. Use a sheer flesh colored piece of

fabric underneath to make the fagoting much
stronger and prettier.

• Do the fagoting with a piece of paper underneath

and remove the paper by hand washing.

'^^”■ '8 sewing

36

Sheer

/:3

Overlap seam

■Paper

Fagoting

APPLICATIONS OVERLOOK STITCH

SEAMING OVERLOOK STITCH
This stitch gives a finished 1/4 inch seam in one

step. For knits, it gives strength and elasticity.to the
seams and prevents the curling of the fabric that
often occurs with 5/8 inch opened seams. It is most
applicable to soft, thin knits such as nylon or

acetate knits, but may be used on other fabrics as
well. Always make test seams with this stitch.

For woven fabric, the overlook stitch gives strength

and prevents raveling. It can be used on woven
goods to replace flat felled or French seams.

For patterns with 1/4 inch seams. Place the raw

edge of the fabric under the presser foot so that as
the needle swings to the right, it comes down at the
raw edge. This will result in an enclosed seam

allowance.

For patterns with 5/8 inch seams:

The seam allowances may be trimmed to 1/4 inch
either before or after sewing. If trimming before

sewing, proceed as above. Otherwise, sew the
seam with the raw edge of the fabric on the etched
guide line "1/2". (Any time you use the full width of
a particular stitch, you should readjust the raw edge
of the fabric 1/8 inch to the left.) Afterward, trim
the excess fabric near the stitching. This method is

actually easier than the overedge method for fabrics
that curl.

Note. On soft, loose knits, the fabric may seem to

wave or ripple, if this occurs, reduce the

pressure. (Page 10 j.

HZ22

Feed Oog;.^^
Pressure; Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Panern Selector: 11

HEMSTITCHING EFFECT

By using a very large needle and a fine thread an
openwork effect can be attained which is beautiful
for sewing the hems into tablecloths, napkins,
placemats, handkerchiefs, etc. Use a large needle,

size 18 or 20, and a fine cotton thread. Tighten thé
upper tension slightly, until the stitch looks better
on the underside than on top. (You will be sewing
with your fabric face side down.)

Turn up 1 inch then turn up 1 inch again to form a
hem of a double thickne» of fabric. The bulk in cor

ners can be eliminated by trimming away the ex

cess, as shown, after having folded the fabric on all
sides. Stitch from the wrong side, so that the
straight stitch forms on the single layer and the

zigzag bites on the double layer. Stitch all the way
to the edge of the fabric along all sides.

37

Pattern:

Length; 4
Width; 3-5
Feed Dog; A.A.
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector; 11

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.......... ^

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TOPSTITCHING OVERLOOK
The oveiiock stitch can be used to topstitch non
raveling fabrics such as felt or leather into place for

appliques or pockets.

Stitch ^ that the straight part of the stitch is form

ed over the edge of the leather, and only the zigzag

part holds it in place.

/

Patwm:2yy^

Length:4

Width: 3-5

Feed Dog: AA
Prasaure: Normal
Foot; AS Purpose
Pattern Selaaor: 11

r»n*m SaiKtor and

Zier»« Width Control Oral

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PROCEDURE:

• Overlock stitching is used for sewing overlapping
seams, decorative hems, binding and edges on

woven and elastic fabrics.

• Jo ^ an overlapping seam, place one piece of

fabnc 1 cm over the other piece and sew the
^de°^^ ^3bric edge on the right

• You can produce a decorative hem by folding a
single hem on the wrong side and sewing the
flatlock from the right side.

' or bias binding when binding

curved edges, like round necks and armhols.

38

APPLICATIONS ULTRA STRETCH

JLJL

SEAMING ULTRA STRETCH
On most knits, 3 1/4 inch finished sesnr, such ss

stitch and overcast or the overlook stitch, is more

desirable than a 5/8 inch opened seam allowance.
These stitches can create a neater, more profes
sional finish, eliminate bulky seams, prevent curl
ing, permit the garment to "give" under stress, and
at the same time they cut down on the amount of

work involved in making a garment. If ever in doubt
as to which of the two stitches to use, test both on
tlw particular fabric in question and choose accor

ding to their performance.

The stitch and overcast stitch is excellent for
stretch fabrics such as sweater knits, bathing suit
knits, and cotton knits. It has the greatest strength

and elasticity of all.
For patterns with 1/4 inch seam allowances: Feed

the fabric such that the needle goes over the raw

edge of the fabric when it swings to the right.
For patterns with 5/8 inch seam allowances: Feed

the raw edge of the fabric along the etched guide

line 1/2 , then trim away the excess fabric close
to the stitching.

Pattern: i<- J\­Lsngth: 4
Width: 4-5
Feed Oog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Selector: 12

Ziezag Widin ConvM Dial

PROCEDURE:

Overlook stitching is used for seaming and

finishing the cut edge of knit fabrics, all in one
operation.

This overlook stitch is especially good for stretch

fabrics such as double knit and jersey and will
give a firm, neat edge finish.

39

Zigzag Foot

Overcasting

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

The reverse stitch patterns produce duck-swiss

leaf and butterfly designs for use on

told linens and children clothes. These- reverse

stitch patterns can be used to sew in hems as the
scallop stitch. See Page (23). ®

to^atchmg bmdings and ribbons for decorative

ettect. This is done in the same manner that lace is
appli^ with the zigzag stitch. See Page (22). The

orTthe^lpi^'^h^^wi ® patterns

on the left, should be sewn on the left edge of the

^or, towels end plaoente« ,„t , pJsem

The reverse stitch patterns can also be corded for

tabSo‘h. P'^^mats and
taWeJoAs Simply place four strands of pearl

f otton, embroidery floss or yarn under the presser

Th^e transparent foot will help guide the cord evenly
while sewing the reverse stitch patterns

ieL^raLe'h°" c-"®®^'® ® effective

threads through the upper threading system A

^ger needle should be used to accommodate the

cCliS"® P'acemats. napkins, and

t ^^'■cad two sewinq

This decorative effect can be

can also be used for

with two

'^«cc^ative technique for

ikik.

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Note: Narrow patterns may be made by setting

zigzag width to 4-3-2.

Pauern; As desired
Length: 4
Width: 4-5

Feed Oog;_AA.
Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose
Panern Selector: 13,

PifTtm S«i*cTor and

Zigxag Widtti Control Otal

Siftch Langth

Conm>l Dutf

14. 15. 16

-----

40

PARTS DESCRIPTION

1. Thread Tak®-up Le^r

Z Pressure Ralease (Darning)

3. Top Plats Thrsad Guide

4. Tension Regulator ■

5. Top Plate

6. Handla

7. Needle Position and Pattern Selector Dial

8. Z^g Width Control Dial

9. Bt^in VWnder

10. Fly Wheel Outch

11. Flywheel

12. Stitch Length Control Dial

13. Reverse Button

14. Drop Feed (under Shuttle Cover)

15. Shuttle Race Cover

16. Feed Dog

17. Needle Plate

18. Thread Guide

19. Thread Guide

20. Face Plate

21. Thread Cutter

22. Needle Clamp

23. Presser Foot Thumb Screw

24. Presser Foot

25. Spool Pins

26. Light Switch

27. Presser Bar Lifter

28. Motor and Belt Cover

V ^ f.y'.- ■ - ....

41

284

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ACCESSORIES

Straight Stitch Fcwt

Zigzag Foot (In Machine)

Quilting Guide

Button Foot

Felts

a

Bobbins

Seam Ripper

Oiler

Screw Drivers

Needles

Twin Needle

42

TWIN NEEDLE SWING /V\AAA/\A

TWIN NEEDLE SEWING EFFECTS
To usa a tvwn needle in the machine, remove the single
needle, and insert the twin needle into clamp with the flat

sitte to the Iwck. Threading of the machine when using a

twin needle is the same as normal v^h these exceptions;

1. Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on each

spool pin.

2. Hold both threads together as you follow through
diread guides as normal, but separate the threads at the

tension. Pass on thread through the left disc and one

thread through the right disc.

3. Then pass threads through arm thread guide.
When using a twin needle, set the stitch width dial at 2 or

less to prevent needle breakage with a wide stitch.
Be sure to use the Middle Needle Position.

Note: Be sure zigzag needle plate and zigzag presser foot

are in place.

AAAA/VV\

Panern: Any
Length; 5
Width: 0-2
Peed Doq: a A
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position: 2

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DECORATIVE TUCKS OR DESIGNS

Any stitch can be used with the twin needle for decorative
effects.

Most attractive are the multiple stitch zigzag and blind hem

stitch for fancy tucks. The satin stitch or tapered zigzag
designs in two colors are effectK-e for creative trims.

Note: Remember to use no more than a 2 zigzag width for

twin needle sewing.

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43

PIN TUCKS

Narrow tucks, sewn with thread that matches the fabric,
produce subtle decoration on plain fabrics. Using the twiri
n^le, sew straight lines on the fabric guiding the edge of
the prefer foot along each successive tuck to make

parallel rows. Soft fabrics will be pulled to form a soft
crea^. To achieve a tuck on a fabric, increase the lower
tendon slightly. Heavier fabrics will produce two lines of
straight stitching. Attractive pin tucks are made with the
multiple stitch zigzag as well as with a straight stitch.

Note: Transparent tape makes straight fines easy to sew.

Just sew with the presser foot guiding a/ong the
edge of the tape. When sewing is completed ped

off tape. ■

Pattern:

--------

Length: 2-4
Width: 0-2
Feed Dog: aa
Pressure: Normal
Foot: AH Purpose
Needle Position: 2

Panern Selector: 5

VvV

FREE-ARM SEWING

For sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas, use your
machine as a free-arm. Stitching buttonholes or sewing
bunons on a cuff or neckband; topstitching a sleeve; edge
finish^ on sleeves, pantlegs and waistlines; darning and
patching knees, elbows; and other areas of wear on

children's clothing become as easy as sewing a common
seam when you have the free-arm at your fingertips. Il
lustrations show some examples of sewing wth the free

arm.

.............

44

USE OF THE ACCESSORIES

CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT

SrtSSng.'" “PPeiF and

Zipper:

SSSS—“™::

To insert cording:

* »he welting by

dostTo cord ^

* P“h'on at "1” Sandwich the welting

be^^n two layers of fabric with right sides together

cord through all thicknesses.

H Stitches close to the

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QUiLTINS GUIDE

Parallel straight lines are easy to sew with the quilting

»he black clip at the

Si Hai »he curved bar to
the dwired distance from the needle. Sew the first line of

stitching as desired, and then for the succe^ing rovilet

guide follow along the previous line of stitchiii A

straight stitch, zigzag, or any other stitch may be us^.

45

• The All Purpose Foot

This foot is flat on the bottom and has a wide hole to ac
commodate wide stitches. This foot should be used for all

normal sewing.

• The Straight Stitch Foot
This foot is flat on the bottom and has only a small hole to
a^ommodate only straight stitching. It may be used on

sheer or soft fabrics for more control when the all purpose

foot allows the fabric to be pulled with the needle.

• The Buttonhole Foot

This foot has a frame which holds the fabric taut enough
to produce a good buttonhole. The markings on the side
dilow exact buttonhole length to be made.

• Cording and Zipper Foot

"nils foot is very narrow, with needle opening cuts at its
right and left sides to sew in zippers and insert cording.

• CHANGING THE FOOT
Press the presser foot shank button toward you to remove
the foot (Step 1). To attach place the desired foot under

the shank and lower the presser bar (Step 21. Foot will be
locked automatically (Step 3).

46

Step 3

ADDITIONAL SPECIAL ACCESSORIES

ROLLER FOOT

for UM on vinyls, imitation leathers, jerseys svn

thetics. velvets and denim. This foot Iri
SToterto'S? ”r “abH«'

um roller root helps prevent skipped stitches.

OVEflC/xST FOOT

i ; the edge of some
duce a flat °''®rcast foot helps to pro

keen the etit Jk t ™ Width zigzag or oveilock stitch to

eep the stttches from drawing tightiy together.

BUND HEM FOOT

#353701

#79634

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ROLLED HEM FOOT

s^o iib ® very tedious hand
sewing job very easy to do on a sewing machine.

FRWGE-FOOT

?htng an"d ¿So?Sctog° “ "'™*-

Иг,« Т°7 ^®"^ shirts.

47

#3710

#7066

#10570

Caution: fle/on* cleaning the machine, be sure to disconnect

the power cord from the wall outlet

BOBBIN CASE BOBBIN

CLEANING HOOK ASSEMBLY

1. ^ take-up lever In highest position, and remove bobbin

?■ race cover.

3. Remove shuttle body,

5 ^ '"eluding shuttle race,

o. Run a drop of oil along nm of shuttle body.

to ^ S"«P <='8mps in-

7. Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch and renlace fitting

tonoue nto notnh nf replace, fitting

SHUTTU .

NOTCH

SHUTTLE

SHUTTLE RACE

CLAMPS

BODY

CLONING FEED DOGS

r^hiiS ^ removed to maintain good operation of the

* highest position and remove the

needle and presser foot.

• aM?i!nfJ®H i® ^ ®°''®’’ P'®*® remove the plate.

i :?.h,

iXtr« S'

froti,Vto!Si'®if'f*® ®"®®' '^®^® ®^® 8"d marks

dlfs S;.t r®r '®"’°''® ^^® "®®^‘® P'®'® ®'88n the feed

dogs periodiMlIy. Improper and lack of cleaning will cause an ac-

torrvSlI MuiTh ^^® ^®®^’"9 mechanism, this in
MusiiS "^P®*'®"dV pull or push the cloth

Musing the needle to bend and strike the plate, foot or hook
Musing a slip in the timing mechanism. Continuous striking^li

Muse defects making it necessary to Mil a serviceman.

48

I CHANGING LIGHT BULB

Open the face plate by pulling towards the left. Turn the light bulb

A majority of service calls could be avoided by following these
procedures and by first checking to see that the machine is:

11" properly top and bottom.
12- That the bobbin is wound evenly.

I a' needle is in the machine correctly.

4. Proper cleaning and oiling.

OILING (GENERAL)

OIL

Swing open hinged face plate. Apply one

drop of oil at all points indicated by arrows.

OIL OIL

Using the large screw driver in the accessory box, remove

the two screws on the top plate and remove plate.

OIL

OIL OIL OIL

OIL O'*- OIL

Remove screw on the bed cover plate and
apply oil while turning the hand wheel.

49

MINOR PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

1. SKIPPED STITCHES

Skipp^ stitches have become a problem in recent years

appearance of knit fabrics and polyester

A. The Needle

11) The needle is dull or bent. Change it.

12) The n^dle is placed incorrectly in the needle clamp. It is

either backwards or is not up in the needle clamp all the
wsy.

(3)

w I«.«! point needle on knits and wedge point needles
for leathers and vinyls.

(4)

the thread is too thick for the size of needle being used

The wong type of needle is being used for the fabric.

Use a large needle. '

B. The Thread

CD The machine is threaded incorrectly.

C2) Many brands of polyester thread are too stiff and coarse

№us making loop formation difficult or impossible.

Change brands or use a cotton thread.

C.

The Presser Foot

”^'«1'»

over the needle plate hole, thus the fabric is being pulled
up and down while stitching. Use the foot which gives

done"^°^* control possible for the particular job being

(2)

^ere is not enough pressure on the presser bar to hold
tne fabric firmly. Increase pressure on the pressure con

D. The Fabric

The fabric has a heavy finish on it which deters stitch for

mation. Wash the fabric thoroughly before sewing.

the fabric taut enough

2.

THREAD BREAKING

A.

Machine improperly threaded.

B.

Thread is caught in a slit of the spool or under
the spool

C.

Thread is dry or of poor quality.

D.

Tension is too tight.

E.

Starting the machine with take-up lever in the

wrong position. Always start and end sewing

with take-up lever in highest position.

F.

Needle is bent, blunt, or has a burr on it.

G.

Needle is not inserted correctly.

H.

Thread is too coarse for needle being used.
Needle plate has been nicked by the needle, thus

is sharp and cuts the threads.

50

3.

NEEDLE COMES UNTHREADED

A.

Take-up lever is not in correct position as you

start sewing. Always start and end with your
take-up lever in its highest position.

4.

NEEDLE BREAKS

A.

Pulling on fabric while sewing bends the needle

this may Muse breakage if needle hits the plate.

B.

Needle is inserted incorrectly.

C.

Needle is too fine for the type of fabric.

D.

Needle is hitting pins.

E.

Prefer foot is improperly fastened.

F.

Machine is Improperly threaded.

I

5.

MATERIAL PUCKERS

A.

Tensions are too tight.

B.

Improper threading.

C.

TTiread is too heavy for fabric.

D.

Stitch B too long for fabric.

E.

Ni^le is dull so it is difficult to seam fabric

F.

The presser foot being used is not holding the
fabric taut enough.

If atl else fails, try sewing over paper.

6.

A.

Hold the threads tightly for the first few stitches.

B.

Place thread ends under and to the side of

presMr foot instead of to the back. •
Be sure the presser foot is down on thick fabrics.

7.

MACHINE IS NOISY

A.

Clean and oil it.

B.

If it is a punching »und, changing the needle.

C.

Stitch length dial is not at 4 when stretch
stitching — Set is at 4 .

8.

BOBBIN DOES NOT WIND PROPERLY

A.

Machine is improperly threaded.

B.

Rubber wheel on bobbin winder is worn or not

making contact.

C.

Bobbin winder tension disc is not in position.

START OF SEWING

enjoy your new

WHITE

51

GETTING READY TO SEW

INDEX

Using the Foot Control
Using the Extnesion Plate
Free Arm Features
Changing the Presser Foot

Changing the Needle

.......................................

;.. 1

.......................................

...................................................

.......................................

................................................

¥/lnding the Bobbin....................................................5

Changing the Bobbin................................................ 6

Threading the Bobbin Case

......................................

Upper Threading ...................................................... 8

Twn Needle Upper Threading

...................................

Adjusting Feed Dog Height.......................................9

Pjcking Up Lower Bobbin Thread

...........................

Regulating Pressure............................................... 10

Adjusting Upper Tension
Fabric/Thread/Needle Chart

Functions of Controls

........................................

...............................

12/13

..............................................

STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG
Seams

.....................................................................

Basting/Topstitching ...............................................15

Darning....................................................................15

Elastic Thread Shirring

..........................................

Holding the Fabric.................................................. 16

Turning Corners..................................................... 16

Curved Seams ....................................................... 16

Ending Seams/Removal of Fabric
Ovsrrastirig

............................................................

..........................

Seaming Knits ....................................................... 17

Sewing on Buttons.................................................18

Forming Thread Shank on Button

..........................

Satin Stitching........................................................ 19

Tapering/Creative Embroidery

Manual Embroidery Designs

................................

..................................

Free Hand Monogramming.....................................20

Applique.................................................................20

Gathering Over Cord..............................................21

Overcasting

Patching
Mending a Tear or Instant Darning

...........................................................

................................................................

.........................

21
21

Lace Applications................................................. 22

Rutter Hem.............................................................23

Elastic Application..................................................23

Understitching Facings

..........................................

24

Decorative Effects.................................................. 24

Blind Hemming

Shell Tuck
Decorative Effects

......................................................

..............................................................

..................................................

25

26

26

Topstitching Effects................................................26

Decorative Stitches

................................................

27

Lingerie Seam........................................................27

Inserting Lace

........................................................

27

10

16

17
17

18
19

19

22

2

2

3
4

Edging
Eyelash Buttonhole

BLITTONHOLES
Buttonhole Preparation

Hemming

7
9

Built In Buttonholer

Turn Around Buttonholes......................................31

Corded Buttonholes

Stretch Buttonholes

.............................................................

..................................................................

...............................................

.........................................

...............................................

..............................................

...............................................

28
28
28

29

30
32

33

STRETCH UTILITY STITCHES

11

Seams....................................................................34

Topstitching (Stretch Stitches)................................34

14

Topstitching/Rick Rack
Tapering/Rick Rack
Application Stretch Overlock

15

Application Smocking Stitch..................................36

Seaming Smocking Stitch .....................................36

.........................................

................................................

.................................

35

35

36

Elastic Thread Shirring ..........................................36

Application Overlook Stitch

Seaming Overlock Stitch

Hemstitching Effect

................................................

Topstitching Overlook
Application Ultra Stretch

...................................

......................................

............................................

........................................

37
37

37
33

39

Seaming Ultra Stretch............................................. 39

FUN STITCHES DECORATIVE

Duck-Swiss Cross-Leaf-Butterfly

............................

40

FEATURES AND PARTS

Parts Description....................................................41

Accessories

...........................................................

42

Twin Needle Sewing Effects....................................43

Decorative Tucks or Designs..................................43

Pin Tucks ...............................................................44

Free Arm Sewing

....................................................

44

Cording and Zipper Foot........................................45

Quilting Guide......................................................... 45

All purpose-Straight Stitch-Buttonhole-Zipper

Foots......................................................................46

Changing the Foot

Additional Special Accessories

..................................................

..............................

45

47

CARE OF YOUR MACHINE

Cleaning Hook Assembly .......................................48

Cleaning Feed Dogs................................................43

Changing Light Bulb
Oiling (General)
Minor Problems and Solutions

..............................................

.....................................................

..........................

50/51

49

49