f
V
UIHITE
MODEL 1220
WHITE SEWING MACHINE
Record in space provided below the Serial No.
and Model No. of this appliance.
The Serial No. is located on Base plate
The Model No. is located on Base plate
Serial No..^
Model No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.
___________________
___
1?20
____________
MODEL 1260:
SUGGESTED RETAIL .
MODEL 1240:
SUGGESTED RETAIL .
MODEL 1220:
SUGGESTED RETAIL .
. DLR 399.00
. DLR 349.00
. DLR 299.00
USING THE FOOT CONTROL
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ro CONNECT THE FOOT CONTROL WIRES:
' Connect special plug to block on machine as shown in diagram
above.
' Connect outlet plug to electrical outlet.
• When sewing, keep children's hands away from foot control and
wiring.
' After sewing, disconnect plug from electrical outlet.
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0 USE THE FOOT PEDAL:
Begin sewing by turning the hand wheel toward you and apply
gradually increasing pressure to foot pedal.
Sewing at a constant speed will give best results.
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USING THE EXTENSION PLATE
3 ATTACH ANU Htiviuvc inc
By sliding extension plate on tubular bed as shown ,n
fittings on plate with pin on tubular bed, and pull to the lef
remove the extension plate.
LEVELING THE MACHINE
• Level your sewing machine when you use it on the table or instal
into the cabinet.
UP: Counter-Clockwise
DOWN: Clockwise
FREE ARM FEATURES
TUBULAR SEWING
• The free arm design simplifies the sewing of tubular items such
pant cuffs, shirt and blouse cuffs and socks.
Simply position these items over the tubular bed of the machine a
sew.
FLAT BED SEWING
• When the extension plate is attached,
you have all the advantages of a flat
machine for sewing flat items,
and for sewing large tubular
items such as flared pant legs.
CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT
Raise needle bar to highest
position and raise presser
foot as shown.
The extra lift for heavy fabric
makes it easier to place fabric
under the presser foot.
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TO REMOVE THE PRESSER FOOT: ■
• Press button on back of presser foot
shank and foot will drop from shank
as shown above.
• It is not necessary to loosen the thumb
screw to change presser foot.
BarasratsEs:
TO ATTACH THE PRESSER FOOT;
• Align desired presser foot to shank as shown above.
• Lower presser foot lever and shank will automatically attach to foot
as shown above.
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
Flat side
Always make sure needle is straight.
To check straightness of needle, lay needle on a flat surface and se
that needle is straight and parallel as shown in above diagram.
Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle bar to its highest po:
tion.
Loosen needle clamp screw and insert needle upward as far as it w
go, making sure flat side of needle is towards back of machine :
shown in the above diagram.
Tighten needle clamp screw with screwdriver.
Follow the same procedure for insertion of twin needle.
To make sure that needle has been inserted correctly, turn har
wheel toward you and see that needle comes down through tf
center of the needle hole in the needle plate as shown in the abo\
diagram.
Stitch selector dial must be set in straight stitch needle positic
when checking needle alignment.
If skipped stitches occur, needle may be incorrectly inserted.
WINDING THE BOBBIN
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TO DISENGAGE THE HAND WHEEL:
• Hold the hand wheel (1) with left hand, turn clutch
counterclockwise with right hand to disengage as shown.
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(2)
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TO WIND THREAD ONTO BOBBIN:
• Lead thread through spring thread guide (4) and through the hole in
your bobbin from the inside out.
• Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft (3).
• Push the bobbin winder to the right.
• Hold loose end of thread firmly and turn hand wheel to make thread
tight. Apply gradual pressure on foot pedal until automatic shut off
disengage bobbin winder.
« Cut off loose end of thread.
CHANGING THE BOBBIN
TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN FROM BOBBIN CASE:
^°RaiL needle bar to its highest position. Bobbin case cannot b
removed when needle bar is at low position.
Open shuttle race cover, pull bobbin case latch with two fingers an
remove bobbin case as shown above.
Remove bobbin from bobbin case by releasing latch.
TO ATTACH THE BOBBIN CASE:
• Pull thread at least 3 inches from bobbin.
• Thread bobbin as shown on pagef 7 ). u uu
. Making sure that needle bar is at its highest position insert bobb
case into shuttle race by holding bobbin case latch. Make sore bo
bin case finger is inside shuttle notch. Press bobbin case into shuti
as far as possible until latch catches on center post of the shuttk
¡READING THE BOBBIN CASE
,11 thread at least 3 inches from bobbin.
,ert bobbin in bobbin case so that
u;ad will unravel clockwise.
as shown in Fig. 2.
),aw thread under the tension spring and
iito the fork shaped opening of the spring
IS shown in Fig. 3.
Pull thread through hole in bobbin case
finger as shown in Fig. 4.
(Recommended for zigzag sewing only)
Fit|- 3
Ti;nsK,'ti S})i iiuj
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TO ADJUST BOBBIN TENSION
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INCORRECT
TOP TENSION TIGHT
BOTTOM TENSION LOOSE
INCORRECT
TOP TENSION LOOSE
BOTTOM TENSION TIGHT
• Turn screw on side of bobbin
Turn screw on side of bobbin
Loostf
CORRECT
case clockwise to increase
tension.
case counterclockwise to
decrease tension.
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UPPER THREADING
Raise needle bar to its highest position.
Raise presser foot.
Lead thread through top plate thread guide (1) and between te
discs (2).
Pull thread down around arm thread guide (3) and up to ta
lever 14).
Lead thread through eyelet on take-up lever from right to lei
down through face plate guide (5), hooking thread into guide
Pull thread down through needle clamp guide (6) and th
needle hole from front to rear 17).
Always use the same type of thread on top and bottom as dif
sizes or types of thread will cause tension problems.
Example: Polyester thread on the bobbin and cotton thread o
will result in poor tension quality.
8
1 WIN NEEDLE UPPER THREADING
• Follow threading instruction for single needle with these exception.
• Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on both spool pins.
• Draw threads through thread guides as normal, but separate the
threads at the tension.
• Pass on thread through the left disc and one thread through the right
disc.
• Now treat both threads as one until you reach the needle eyes.
ZIGZAG DIAL: Set at desired width between "0“ and "3," if you set
dial higher than 3, the needle will hit the needle plate and break.
STITCH LENGTH: Set at desired stitch length.
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ADJUSTING FEED DOG HEIGHT
Upper position of feed dog is used for normal sewing. To raise feed
dog.
Press drop feed button located under shuttle cover to upper
position.
Lower position is used for Embroidering, Mending or Sewing on
Button. Press drop feed button “IS'" to lower position.
PICKIIMG-UP LOWER BOBBIN THREAD
Raise presser foot.
Holding upper thread, turn
hand wheel toward you
one rotation.
When take up lever is at its
highest position, pull thread
to pick up loop of lower
bobbin thread.
Pull both upper and lower three
"to the left of" presser foot ap
proximately 6 inches.
This will prevent jamming.
REGULATING PRESSURE
Fig. 1
The amount of pressure that is applied to the fabric by the pn
foot is adjusted by the pressure cap (1). The upper position give
least amount of pressure while the lowest position gives maxii
pressure.
To increase the pressure, push down on the pressure cap to o
the desired setting. To decrease the pressure, press down ot
snap lock ring (2) to allow the pressure cap to return to its maxn
height. Then reset to the proper pressure.
Normally the pressure cap will be in the lowest position. If th<
layer of fabric tends to push out further than the bottom lay
fabric, Pressure should be decreased. This often happens on 1
fabrics, such as wools, and on knits.
Fig. 2
10
IIIIJUSTIIMG UPPER TENSION
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To increase upper tension, turn upper tension regulator to a hig^
her number.
To decrease upper tension, turn upper tension regulator to a lo
wer number. .
Turning tension regulator from “O" to''9'' will increase tension. Nor
mal sewing is performed between "4" and "5
Note: Normal stitches will be performed on the red zone at 4, 5 and
6 for regular cotton threads.
Fig. 1.
Proper Tension
7' '•
Fig. 2
Upper Thread Tension Too Loose
Fig. 3
Upper Thread Tension Too Tight
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A perfect straight stitch will be formed with both threads interlock
ing in fabric as shown in Fig. 1. ■ u- \
When using the zig zag stitch for embroidery isatin stitching),
decrease upper tension so that top surface will look smooth at the
expense of the bottom surface.
11
r
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE CHART
ho
FABRIC
DE LIGATE — tulle, chiffon, voile, fine lace, organdy, lawn, crepe, taffeta
Knits ~ sheer tricot
LIGHTWEIGHT — batiste, organdy, voile, taffeta, silk, crepe, chiffon, velvet
KN ITS — tricot, brushed tricot, jerseys, synthetic leathers, power net
LEATHERS ~ plastic film, vinyls
..........................................
MEDIUM WEIGHT ~ gingham, percale, linen, chintz,faille, satin, corduroy, velvet, suitings, wools,
KNITS — jersey, double knit power net, bathing suits
LEATHERS — vinyls, plastic film
MEDIUM HEAVY — gabardine, tweed sailcloth, denim, duck, coatings, wools, drapery.
KN ITS - double knit, power net
LEATHER - vinyl, rubber backed drapery fabric
HEAVY - overcoatings, canvas, upholstery, awning
KNITS ~ fake furs, velours, sweater
................ .
pique, terry
......
........................
NEEDLE (Long Scarf)
HA X 1 '30/705H
light ball point
11 80
light ball point
Wedge point
14 90
light or medium
Wedge point
16 100
heavy ball point
Wedge point
18 110
heavy ball point
Eu ropean
3 70
ball point
THREAD
Fine mercerized 60
Eu ropean 50 — 70
"A" Silk
Fine Synthetics
Fine mercerized 60
European 50 — 70
Fine Synthetics
"A" Silk
Mercerized 50
European 30
"A" Silk
Synthetic
Mercerized 50
Heavy Duty Mercerized
European 30
"A" Silk
Synthetic
Heavy Duty Mercerized
European 30
STITCH
LENGTH
1-1/4 - 1-3/4
1- 3/4 - 2
2- 1/2 -3
1- 3/4 - 2
2- 1/2 - 3
---------------------------j
2-2-1/2
2-1/2 - 3
2-1/2 - 4
Point Eye
c:..:x:
Shaft
Body
CO
Short Groove
(Flat Side of Needle!
Regular Sharp All purpose
Needle Needle
Long Groove
(Round Side of Needle)
D/tedium Ball
Point Needle
------------
0>N Q—N DZ> HIQ —>30-IC/)
Long Groove -
Elongated Scarf -
Short Groove-
Eye -
Wedge Point
Needle
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C/)H30>"D OZ> C/)m30CH>mTi
FUNCTIONS OF CONTROLS
NEEDLE POSITION SELECTOR Dl/
• Raise needle bar to highest positior
turning hand wheel toward you.
• Select desired needle position.
• Selector dial can be turned either
clockwise or counterclockwise.
ZIGZAG WIDTH CONTROL DIAL
• For wider zigzag stitch, select a higher
number.
• When twin needle is used, zigzag must
be limited between positions "0" and
"3" on the dial (use of twin needle
in position higher than “3" will result
in needle striking needle plate).
STITCH LENGTH CONTROL DIAL
• Numbers on dial denote length of stitches.
• To increase length of stitch, turn dial to higher number.
STITCH LENGTH GUIDE
Numbers on dial
Stitches per inch
REVERSE STITCH BUTTON:
• jse for reverse stitching or tacking.
• Keeping button pressed in will allow you to sew reverse stitch
same length as forward stitch.
0
No Feed
1 2
24 12
14
3 4
8
6
applications of the straight stitch
The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should
depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require
longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches.
For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add
strength and elasticity to the seam. '
PaUi'iii:
I I'nijtli 2 4
Wnlth: 0
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Pii'ssuii^' N(iim,il
t ni>r All Piiipnsc
Ncrdic Pi.silinii: ^
BASTIIMG/TOPSTITCHING ------
Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior
to fitting. Basting stitches also may be used when gathering in fullness.
Topstitching can be done very effectively with the long straight stitch.
For a bolder stitch, two threads of the same type can be threaded
through one needle (size 14 or 16). A heavier thread such as buttonhole
twist may be used for topstitching, but be sure to use a larger needlelsize
16 or 18). Left needle position may be used for more support of fabric.
P.ilit'i II:
[ iMigtlr 4
Whilif 0
FiTMi
Fnoi: Ail Pur()ns(;
Ni'i'dli' Pnsilion:^ (Ч ^
Noim.il
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DARNING
Worn spots or small holes can be darned very easily. Use of an
embroidery hoop is optional depending on the fabric. A fine thread
IS recommended so that the fabric and thread will blend together invisibly.
Trim the ragged edges from the area to be darned. Hold the threads to
start, then move the fabric slowly back and forth while running the
machine very fast to fill the area. More professional results will be
attained by moving the fabric in a figure eight pattern while sewing.
After filling in the area lengthwise, reweave with crosswise stitches in the
same manner.
Psilcm;
LiHKjdi: 0
Widtli: 0
Feed [)|П):аЖ
Ptessuns D;im
Fool: None ot All
Piiiposc
Noodle Position: ф
15
ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING
Wind elastic thread onto bobbin, as shown, let
ting the thread pass through your fingers. The
thread should be wound smoothly without stret
ching. Place bobbin in case as usual, being sure
that the elastic is drawn through the tension. Use
regular thread on the top of the machine. Do a
trial run on the chosen fabric to test length of
stitch. Lay a piece of paper under the fabric to
keep it from gathering up as you sew. This will
enable you to sew many parallel rows of stitching
without difficulty. Afterwards tear out the paper
and the fabric will be gathered.
Patttifn:
Length; 3 4
WidllnO
Feed Dog
Pressure: Nnmiai
Foot: All Pufi)ost,‘
Needle Posilton:'^
• HOLDING THE FABRIC
For most fabrics, it is not
necessary to hold the fabric in
both front and back. Merely
guide the fabric with one hand
from the front.
For the fine delicate fabrics,
such as chiffon, geogrette, and
tricot, the best resits will be at
tained by holding the fabric in
front and back of the needle
without pulling on it.
• TURNING CORNERS
To pivot at a corner, leave the
needle in the fabric while on the
upswing so that the stitch is
almost completed, thus preven
ting the possibility of skipped stit
ches in the corner. Lift the
presser foot and pivot the fabric.
Then, lower the presser foot and
continue sewing.
• CURVED SEAMS
On a curved seam use a slightly shorter stitch length than you are using
for the rest of the seams. For example, if length 2 is being used for the
seams, a 1-1/2 stitch length would be preferred for curves. A smaller
stitch length will add strength and elasticity to the seam.
When guiding the fabric, keep your fabric edge on the etched seam
guide line directly across from the needle rather than on the forward part
of the line. The seam guide may be used on an angle as shown.
16
• ENDING SEAM/REMOVAL OF FABRIC
Stitch to the edge of the fabric, then press the reverse stitch button and
backstitch for a few stitches to reinforce the end of the seam.
Turn the hand wheel until the take-up lever is in its highest position so
that the stitch is completed and the threads will pull freely. Lift the
presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing the threads to the left and
back, keeping them under the foot so as not to bend the needle. Cut the
threads with the thread cutter on the back of the presser bar. Leave the
thread ends three to four inches long.
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APPLICATIONS OF THE ZIGZAG STITCH
OVERCASTING
Place the edge of the material underneath the
opening of the sewing foot and guide raw edge
along the center groove of the foot, allowing
stitch to form half on and half off the fabric.
Pattern: AM
Lenglit: 2 4
Width: 4 5
Feed Dog:.,AA^
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position: ф
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SEAMING KNITS
The narrow zigzag can be used in seams of firm
knits for added strength. After sewing, open
seam and press flat. Tiny zigzag stitches can
hardly be seen and the seam will give when stret-
‘ched.
Pattern: AM
Lenght: 2
Width: 1-2
Feed Dog: _AA.
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position: ^
17
SEWING ON BUTTONS
Zigzag stitching is a very easy and convenient
method of sewing on button without a shank.
Place the button so its left hole comes directly
under the needle, then gently lower the button
sewing foot. Take a stitch in the hole.
Raise the needle and move zigzag width dial to
the right until the needle comes down exactly
over the right hole in the button.
Note: Be sure the needle clears the holes of the
button by moving the hand wheel by hand
before running the machine fast.
Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for securing
a button in place. Stop with the needle in the left
hole. To lock the threads, set the stitch width at
0, and take a few stitches in the left hand hole.
Pattern: AAA
Lengtrt: 0
Width: 2 5
_______
Feed Dog: ZS
Pressure: Normal
Foot: Button Foot
Needle Position:^.
b:;
FORMING THREAD SHANK ON BUTTON
Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should have
thread shank to make them stand away from th
fabric. To form a thread shank, sew over a pin c
rounded toothpick which can be inserted directI
into the button sewing foot.
After stitching the button to the fabric, remov
work from under the presser foot leaving thread
about six inches from fabric. Remove pin c
toothpick. Pull the threads to back of button an
form a shank between button and fabric b
winding threads tightly around the attaching stii
ches. Pull threads to back of the fabric and the
tie thread ends securely.
18
>ATIIM STITCHING
I his is useful for decoration such as tapering,
rianual designed embroidery, monogramming,
Hid applique.
(he satin stitch, which is a very close zigzag
aitch, is obtained by setting the stitch length as
lear to "0" as possible without stopping the
eeding action. The setting will vary for different
abrics. It may be desirable to loosen the upper
ijnsion slightly to cause the threads to lock
mderneath, in order to make the top surface
Dok especially smooth. For lightweight fabrics,
liace paper underneath the fabric while sewing
or best results.
TAPERING/CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
Tapering is done by gradually increasing and
decreasing the stitch width while sewing. By this
method, tapered monograms and other in
teresting designs can be created. For tapered
monograms run the machine fast while turning
the width dial slowly from narrow to wide and
back.
First, learn this stroke by letting the fabric guide
straight. Then, learn to pivot the fabric as you
are tapering by holding the fabric at one point.
Various strokes can be combined to form letters
and designs. Variegated thread can give attrac
tive results.
Pattern: АЛЛ
Length: % Уз
Width: 15
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position:
A.A.
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Pattern: АЛЛ
Lenght: Уг Уз
Width: 0-5
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Я
MANUAL EMBROIDERY DESIGNS
iJifferent designs can be made by turning the
.iiich width dial between 0 and 5. By running the
iicichine at a constant speed and turning the dial
II: a definite rhythm, various designs can be
t teated.
V/
Needle Position:ф ► or
A A
19
Pattern: АЛЛ
Length: Vz -’/3
Width: 0-5
Feed Dog:
Prssure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position:^ ^ or
A A
Я:
1 ^ ‘
Pattem:/\Ay\
Length: 0
Width: 1 5
Feed Dog: U
Pressure: Dam
Foot: None
Needle:^ ^ or
FREE HAND MONOGRAMMING
For giving garments and linens a personalized touch, first transfer thedesig:
the right side of the fabric. An embroidery hoop is recommended especia
for soft fabrics and toweling.In order to monogram, you must move the f:
slowly and run the machine rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by moL
the paper under a stationary pen. Guide the fabric slowly so that the zigzag
close together like a satin stitch, but be careful that the stitches do not pile i
When guiding from side to side, move fabric slightly faster to avoid a heav
area.
Practice by forming loops. Once this is accomplished any letter is easy
Sometimes the use of paper or non-woven interfacing under the fabri
may make guiding the fabric easier. The paper or interfacing may be tor
cut away at the completion of the monogram. When monogramming tow
cellophane placed on the top will help cover loops and make the monogr
smooth. Pull or cut away remaining cellophane when finished.
Step 1
Pattern: iTyV\
Length: 1
Widtlr: 0-1
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position:^
Step 2
Pattern : AAA
Length: ’/4 '/3
Width: 2-4
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position:^
APPLIQUE
Applying decorative shapes or fabric scraps to household articles and clotf
is a very interesting way of trimming an otherwise plain article. First,
the design on fabric to be appliqued, then pin or baste it securely in plac
garment. With a small straight stitch or narrow zigzag, sew around the
transferred design. After excess fabric is trimmed away, sew around the
applique with a satin stitch. For a smooth curve, stop frequently at the ins
edge of the curve to pivot the fabric slightly. Corners look much better w
the point is stitched by pivoting rather than just turned.
As with all decorative stitches, paper may be used to give more body to tt
fabric when stitching and can be torn away when the applique is complet
20
GATHERING OVER CORD
Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch often
breaks while pulling in fullness. A small zigzag
across a cord such as crochet thread or carpet
thread, gives a much stronger cord for gathering
fullness into fabrics. Once the gathers have been
stitched in place, the cord can be pulled out in
order to eliminate bulk.
Pattern; /\/\A
Lengtii: 7.
Wirltti: 3
Ff'i'd Dorr AA
Piessuic:
Foot : .Ali Pm | n 0.0
Noedlo Posinoli ^
LACE APPLICATIONS
.Attaching laces or trims adds a special touch to
iingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or baste laces in
itlace easing or mitering corners where neces
sary.
A straight edged lace or braid has a convenient
line to follow when sewing. When using a
scalloped edged lace follow tlie design of the
lace for an almost invisible application.
Note: Try Multiple Stitch Zigzag.
Pnlimn- ДАД
I mi(|ili: 1
Widilv I 2
i-)o,j:_J^
F^Ktssuic: Noimtjl
Foot: Al! fAirpttsr-
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21
: !
Pattern: aAA
Length: %
Width: 4-5
Feed Dog: M.A.
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position:-^
FLUTTER HEM
An unusual way of hemming or finishing edges
of tricot or soft knits is by a flutter edge. Hemm^
ing in this manner is just like overcasting an
edge, but the fabric is stretched in back and in
front of the needle as you sew. For best results,
pull the fabric equally, making sure the needle
goes over the edge. When you stop to reposition
your hands, keep the needle in the fabric.
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BUTTONHOLES
Various fabrics require various methods of
sewirig buttonholes. Four different methods
are given below, with suggested uses. If you
are in doubt as to which method is best for
your fabric, test the methods in question and
choose the best according to the finished
appearance.
PREPARATION
For the best results, a good quality merceriz^
ed cotton thread should be used. Polyester
threads often result in puckered or heavy
unattractive buttonholes. The finer your
fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should
be. An interfacing should be used under the
buttonholes to give body, to strengthen, and
to help them withstand wear. To establish
the correct length of the buttonhole, add the
diameter of the button (A), plus the thick
ness of the button (B), plus 1/8 inch for the
bartacks. The length may be marked on the
garment with a basting stitch, tailors chalk,
or transparent tape, as shown. Another way
to make sure that all buttonholes will be the
same size is to cut a piece of cardboard as
wide as the buttonhole foot and long
enough to make the distance between the
toe of the white slide and the cardboard the
size buttonhole needed. This method works
for buttonholes up to 1-1/8 inches long.
Horizontal buttonholes should extend 1/8
inch beyond the center line of the garment.
Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the
cutting space of the buttonhole is directly on
the center line. Always make a practice
buttonhole on a scrap of the garment fabric
before making any buttonholes on your gar
ment. On your test sample, duplicate the
thickness found in the garment and be sure
to include the interfacing. The test sample
should help determine the length needed for
the button to pass through easily, and the
stitch length for the particular fabric. As with
the satin stitch, the stitches should be close
together, but not so close that they pile up.
Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.
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TURN-AROUND BUTTONHOLES
It is possible to make small and dainty
buttonholes if you desire or repair damaged
buttonholes. This entails a slight shifting of
the cloth but with some practice, good
buttonholes can be achieved.
1. Mark the length of the buttonhole on the
cloth as shown in figure.
2. Set the needle position to the left and
your stitch length dial near "7/4" or the
density your desire.
3. Choose the desired width of your botton-
hole.
Example: if you want a buttonhole with a
width of # 3 setting on the stitch width
dial, divide this setting in half, or 1%
4. Start at your marked position, sew down
on the left side of buttonhole to the other
end of marking. Leave the needle in the
cloth at the right side of stitches and
rotate your cloth. Lift the presser foot and
slide the bottom of the foot back to the
front.
5. Lower the foot and raise the needle.
Reset your stitch width dial to bartack, in
this case the # 3 setting, set your feed to
AA sew several stitches.
6. Raise the needle, raise feed to, AM reset
the zigzag width to the initial setting, in
this case #1V2 and sew the other side of
buttonhole to your mark, then repeat your
bartack (5).
7. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches at
0 witdh. Cut buttonhole as indicated
previously.
When using this method over a buttonhole
which has already been slit or damaged, be
sure to hold the buttonhole open and allow
the needle to go off the edge of the fabric.
Step 4 is all that may be needed to repair
damaged buttonholes.
Pattern: /\/V\
Width: 2’/2^&2K,^5^0
Feed Dog:
Pressure: Normal
Foot: Buttonhole
Needle Position: ^
-AA-KE
Step 1
Step 2
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Step 3
Step 4
CORDED BUTTONHOLES
Cording gives a reinforced raised button^
hole. It is excellent for use on bulky, woven
fabric, or knits in which the stitching often
gets buried and makes cutting difficult. On
knits, a corded buttonhole will help keep the
fabric from stretching out of shape.
Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or
buttonhole twist to use for the cording.
The turnaround buttonhole (page24), hav-^
ing the cord under the presser foot in su
ch a way that the zigzag stitch covers the
cord. When pivoting the buttonhole, also
swing the cord around to follow under the
second side.
At the completion of the buttonhole snip the
excess cord close to the bartack on woven
fabrics. For knitted garments, always pull
the cords to the wrong side by using a darn
ing needle or needle threader, and knot the
cord ends before clipping.
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Turn-around Buttonhole:
Pattern: A/V\
Length: C^l
Width: 2'/2-5-2y2-5-0
Feed Dog: ▲A.-ZZ'-AA-Z
Pressure: Normal
Foot: Buttonhole
Needle Position:^
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PARTS DESCRIPTION
1. Thread Take-up Lever
2. Pressure Release (Darning)
3. Top Plate Thread Guide
4. Tension Regulator
5. Top Plate
6. Handle
7. Needle Position Selector Dial
8. Zigzag Width Control Dial
9. Bobbin Winder
10. Fly Wheel Clutch
2 3 4 5
1. 8
11. Fly Wheel
12. Stitch Length Control Dial
13. Reverse Button
14. Drop Feed (under Shuttle Cover)
15. Shuttle Race Cover
16. Feed Dog
17. Needle Plate
18. Thread Guide
19. Thread Guide
20. Face Plate
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Thread Cutter
21.
Needle Clamp
22.
Presser Foot Thumb Screw
23.
Presser Foot
24.
Spool Pins
25.
Light Switch
26.
Presser Bar Lifter
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28. Motor and Belt Cover
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accessories
C-
Straight Stitch Foot
Button Foot
Zigzag Foot (In Machine)
Quilting Guide
Seam Ripper Oiler
du bo s
Needles
Felts
Regular Zipper Foot
'Qfi
Bobbins
Screw Drivers
CZ—(it
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Twin Needle
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TWIN NEEDLE SWING
TWIN NEEDLE SEWING EFFECTS
To use a twin needle in the machine, remove the single
needle, and insert the twin needle into clamp with the flat
side to the back. Threading of the machine when using a
twin needle is the same as normal with these exceptions;
1. Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on each
spool pin.
2. Hold both threads together as you follow through
thread guides as normal, but separate the threads at the
tension. Pass on thread through the left disc and one
thread through the right disc.
3. Then pass threads through arm thread guide.
When using a twin needle, set the stitch width dial at 2 or
less to prevent needle breakage with a wide stitch.
Be sure to use the Middle Needle Position.
Note: Be sure zigzag needle plate and zigzag presser foot
are in place.
/SAA/Wy\
/\aaaaAA
Pattern: Any
Length; 1/2—5
Width; 0-2
Feed Dog; AA
Pressure: Normal
Foot: All Purpose
Needle Position: 2
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DECORATIVE TUCKS OR DESIGNS
Any stitch can be used with the twin needle for decorative
effects.
Most attractive are the multiple stitch zigzag and blind hem
stitch for fancy tucks. The satin stitch or tapered zigzag
designs in two colors are effective for creative trims.
Note: Remember to use no more than a 2 zigzag width for
twin needle sewing.
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FREE-ARM SEWING ^
For sewing tubular and ^ ^uff o^r neckband; topstitching a sleeve;
Stitching buttonholes or sewing b darninq and patching knees,
edge finishes on sleeves, pantlegs an ^ become as easy as sewing a
-oertips. Illustrations show
some examples of sewing with the free-arrn.
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USE OF THE ACCESSORIES
CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT
The cording and zipper foot is used to sew in zippers and
insert cording.
Zipper:
Set the needle position at or as needed to sew the
right side or the left side of zipper respectively, so that the
foot sews very close to the zipper teeth.
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To insert cording:
• Set the needle position at '=4" and make the welting by
sandwiching the cord into a bias strip of fabric. Stitch
close to cord.
• Set the needle position at Sandwich the welting
between two layers of fabric with right sides together.
Stitch a second time. The needle stitches close to the
cord through all thicknesses.
QUILTING GUIDE
Parallel straight lines are easy to sew with the quilting
guide. To attach the guide, slide it into the black clip at the
back of the presser foot shank. Adjust the curved bar to
the desired distance from the needle. Sew the first line of
stitching as desired, and then for the succeeding rows let
the guide follow along the previous line of stitching. A
straight stitch, zigzag, or any other stitch may be used.
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- The All Purpose Foot
This foot is flat on the bottom and has a wide hole to ac
commodate wide stitches. This foot should be used for all
normal sewing.
The Straight Stitch Foot
This foot is flat on the bottom and has only a small hole to
accommodate only straight stitching. It may be used on
sheer or soft fabrics for more control when the all purpose
foot allows the fabric to be pulled with the needle.
- The Buttonhole Foot
This foot has a frame which holds the fabric taut enough
to produce a good buttonhole. The markings on the side
allow exact buttonhole length to be made.
• Cording and Zipper Foot , ,
This foot is very narrow, with needle opening cuts at its
right and left sides to sew in zippers and insert cording.
. CHANGING THE FOOT
Press the presser foot shank button toward you to remove
the foot (Step 1). To attach place the desired foot under
the shank and lower the presser bar (Step 2). Foot will be
locked automatically (Step 31.
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ADDITIONAL SPECIAL ACCESSORIES
ROLLER FOOT
Ideal for use on vinyls, imitation leathers, jerseys, syn
thetics, velvets and denim. This foot helps keep both
layers of fabric feeding the same. On very slippery fabrics,
the roller foot helps prevent skipped stitches.
OVERCAST FOOT
Zigzag overcasting may tend to roll the edge of some
fabrics causing bulky edge. The overcast foot helps to pro
duce a flat edge. The bar behind the needle hole holds the
threads firmly in a full width zigzag or overlook stitch to
keep the stitches from drawing tightly together.
BLIND HEM FOOT
For all those who find machine blind hemming difficult
® of fabric to follow!
he blind hem foot is a fine accessory for those who like
the strength and durability of machine hemming.
#353701
#79634
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ROLLED HEM FOOT
Recommended for narrow rolled hems on scarves, shirts,
linens, and linings. This foot makes a very tedious hand
sewing job very easy to do on a sewing machine.
FRINGE-FOOT
Thick chenille type loops can add interest to appliqued
flowers and animals. Used with a satin stitch this foot
gives a plush texture to a design. Also used for hemstit
ching and tailor tacking.
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#3710
#7066
#10570
Caution: Before cleaning the machine, be sure to disconnect
the power cord from the wall outlet.
BOBBIN CASE BOBBIN NOTCH
SHUTTLE RACE
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SHUTTLE
RACE COVER
SHUTTLE
BODY
CLEANING HOOK ASSEMBLY
1. With take^up lever in highest position, and remove bobbin case.
2. Turn clamps outward and remove shuttle race cover.
3. Remove shuttle body.
4. Clean thread and lint from all parts, including shuttle race.
5. Run a drop of oil along rim of shuttle body.
6. Replace shuttle body, then shuttle race cover. Snap clamps into place.
7. Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch and replace, fitting tongue
into notch of shuttle race cover.
CLAMPS
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CLEANING FEED DOGS
• Lint or dust accumulated between the needle plate and the
feed dogs must be removed to maintain good operation of the
machine. . . , „
. Raise the needle bar to the highest position and remove the
needle and presser foot. , , *
. Loosen screw on the bed cover plate and remove the plate^
. Clean lint and dust from the bottom of the needle plate and the
feed dogs with a lint brush.
• Turn the hand wheel slowly and be sure to clean all areas.
• Replace the removed plate.
Check the needle plate area, if there are scratches and rnarks
around the needle hole opening, your machine is not being clean^
ed properly. Always remove the needle plate and clean the feed
dogs periodically. Improper and lack of cleaning will cause an ac
cumulation of lint which hampers the feeding mechanism this in
turn will cause the operator to impatiently pull or push the cloth
causing the needle to bend and strike the plate, foot or hook
causing a slip in the timing mechanism. Continuous striking will
cause defects making it necessary to call a serviceman.
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I CHANGING LIGHT BULB , u
Open the face plate by pulling towards the left. Turn the light bulb
i counterclockwise to remove. Replace the bulb by turning
I clockwise.
I
A majority of service calls could be avoided by following these
procedures and by first checking to see that the machine is;
1. Threaded properly top and bottom.
2. That the bobbin is wound evenly.
|3. That the needle is in the machine correctly.
4. Proper cleaning and oiling.
OILING (GENERAL)
OIL
-OIL
Swing open hinged face plate. Apply one
drop of oil at all points indicated by arrows.
apply oil while turning the hand wheel.
Using the large screw driver in the accessory box, remove
the two screws on the top plate and remove plate.
OIL
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MINOR PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
1. SKIPPED STITCHES
Skipped stitches have become a problem in recent years,
especially with the appearance of knit fabrics and polyester
threads on the market. Skipped stitches normally can be traced to
four basic causes;
A. The Needle
(1) The needle is dull or bent. Change it.
12) The needle is placed incorrectly in the needle clamp. It is
either backwards or is not up in the needle clamp all the
way.
¡3) The wrong type of needle is being used for the fabric.
Use ball point needle on knits and wedge point needles
for leathers and vinyls.
(4) the thread is too thick for the size of needle being used.
Use a large needle.
B. The Thread
(1) The machine is threaded incorrectly.
(2) Many brands of polyester thread are too stiff and coarse
thus making loop formation difficult or impossible.
Change brands or use a cotton thread.
C. The Presser Foot
(1) The foot being used is not holding the fabric taut enough
over the needle plate hole, thus the fabric is being pulled
up and down while stitching. Use the foot which gives
the most control possible for the particular job being
done.
12) There is not enough pressure on the presser bar to hold
the fabric firmly. Increase pressure on the pressure con
trol
D. The Fabric
The fabric has a heavy finish on it which deters stitch for
mation. Wash the falDric thoroughly before sewing.
THREAD BREAKING
2.
Machine improperly threaded.
A.
Thread is caught in a slit of the spool or under
B.
the spool
Thread is dry or of poor quality.
C.
Tension is too tight.
D.
Starting the machine with take-up lever in the
E.
wrong position. Always start and end sewing
with take-up lever in highest position.
Needle is bent, blunt, or has a burr on it.
F.
Needle is not inserted correctly.
G.
Thread is too coarse for needle being used.
H.
Needle plate has been nicked by the needle, thus
I.
is sharp and cuts the threads.
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A Tate° p^eveMs as you s,aP sewing. Always star, and end with
your take-up lever in its highest position.
‘ A. p'«n“^“ab" wWle sewing bends .be needle, this may cause breakage it needie bits
the plate.
B. Needle is inserted incorrectly.
C. Needle is too fine for the type of fabric.
D. Needle is hitting pins.
E. Presser foot is improperly fastened.
F. Machine is improperly threaded.
5. MATERIAL PUCKERS
A. Tensions are too tight.
B. Improper threading.
C. Thread is too heavy for fabric.
D. Stitch is too long for fabric.
p Needle is dull SO it is difficult to seam fabric.
F. The presser foot being used is not holding the fabric taut enoug .
G. If all else fails, try sewing over paper.
6 THREADS JAM AT START O.F SEWING
re’Tbma??nSflt; a:d'’»'re“d?o, presser ,oo. instead o, .o .be back,
C. Be sure the presser foot is down on thick fabrics.
7. MACHINE IS NOISY
A. Clean and oil it.
B If it is a punching sound, changing the needle.
c'. Stitch length dial is not at 4 when stretch stitching
Set is at 4 ,
1 8. BOBBIN DOES NOT WIND PROPERLY
A. Machine is improperly threaded.
B. Rubber wheel on bobbin winder is worn or not making contact.
C. Bobbin winder tension disc is not in position.
enjoy your new
WHITE
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GETTING READY TO SEW
INDEX
Using the Foot Control ............................................1 BUTTONHOLES
Using the Extnesion Plate.........................................2 Buttonhole Preparation ....
Free Arm Features....................................................2 jurn Around Buttonholes . .
Changing the Presser Foot
Changing the Needle
Winding the Bobbin
Changing the Bobbin...............................................“ .
Threading the Bobbin Case
T^N^edTeUppeVlhreading ;..:
AdiusdS Feed Dog Heigh,.....................................,9 Decorative Tucks or Designs
Picking Up Lower Bobbin Thread
Regulating Pressure
Adjusting Upper Tension
Fabric/Thread/Needle Chart
Functions of Controls
STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG
Seams............................................................
Basting/Topstitching
Darning ■
.................................................
^HoSInJi^rFabric""“.
Turning Corners.....................................................
Curved Seams
Ending Seams/Removal of Fabric.........................j'
Overcasting
Seaming Knits
* '
..........................................................................
Sewing on Buttons
Forming Thread Shank on Button.........................
Satin Stitching.......................................................-a
Tapering/Creative Embroidery
Manual Embroidery Designs
Free Hand Monogramming
Applique...............................................................21
Gathering Over Cord.............................................
Lace Applications
Flutter Hem............................................................
..........................,...........................
...........................................................
...................................................
.......................................
..............................................
....................................
......
......................
........................
....................
..................................
............................................
.....................................
........................^0^99 and Z.pper Foot
............................
.........
...........................................
..............................
.................................
...................................
“ Corded Buttonholes
^
FEATURES AND PARTS
2 Parts Description
■ 8 Accessories.
9 Twin Needle Sewing Effects.
'9 Free Arm Sewing . .
Quilting Guide.
...
All purpose-Straight Stitch-Buttonhole-Zipper
Foots..................................................................
Changing the Foot
Additional Special Accessories
.15
CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
.15
Cleaning Hook Assembly
.15
.|g Qiggning Feed Dogs
............
.............................................
¡9 ^hanging ugh,Bu,b
Oiling (Generali
Minor Problems and Solutions
18
18
^
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.........
.23
.24
.27
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