SINGER W1213 User Manual

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Table of Contents page

1. Features and Parts

Principle Parts.............................................................1-2

Accessories

U. Installation of Machine Head

Portable Case................................................................. 4

Cabinet

..........................................................................

III. Preparing Machine to Sew

Winding the Bobbin...................................................... 5

Lower Threading

Upper Threading........................................................... 6

rv. Choosing the Right Needle ........................................7 — 9

Types of Needles .......................................................... 3

Needle — Thread — Fabric Chart

Changing the Needle..................................................... 9

Changing the Needle Plate

V. Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine. . . iQ-14

Adjusting the Stitch

Stitch Length Dial Reverse Button Stitch Width Lever

Relating Stitch Length to

Stitch Width .......................................................10

Pattern Selector

Needle Position

Adjusting for the Fabric.......................................12—13

Feed Dog Control Pressure Control

Tension Dial ......................................................13

Adjusting the Tension

The Proper Presser Foot ..............................................14

Changing the Foot

The All Purpose Foot

The Straight Stitch Foot......................................14

The Embroidery Foot

The Buttonhole Foot ..........................................14

VI. How to Sew

Pinning ........................................................................15

Placement of Fabric/Starting a Seam....................15

Guiding the Fabric ......................................................15

Etched Seam Guide............................................15

Cloth Guide .......................................................15

Presser Foot as a Guide......................................15

Holding the Fabric ......................................................15

Turning Comers...........................................................16

Curved Seams .............................................................16

Sewing Across Heavy Seams Ending a Seam/Removal of Fabric

VII. Applications of the Straight Stitch

Seams ..........................................................................12

Basting/Topstitching....................................................17

Darning........................................................................17

Elastic Thread Shirring................................................17

VIII. Applications of the Zigzag Stitch

Overcasting..................................................................18

Seaming Knits

Sewing on Buttons ......................................................18

Forming a Thread Shank

Satin Stitching .............................................................19

Tanerins ......................................................................19

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5 — 6

10—11

15—16

10 10 10

11 11

18-21

Manual Embroidery Designs Freehand Monogramming

Applique............................................................................20

12 13

14 14

16 16 17

18 18

Gathering Over a Cord.....................................'................21

Lace Application

Flutter Hem ......................................................................21

DC. Buttonholes

Preparation........................................................................22

Built-in Buttonhole...........................................................22

Tum-around Buttonhole

Corded Buttonhole............................................................24

Stretch Buttonhole............................................................24

X. Applications of the Blind Hem Stitch

Hemming .........................................................................25

Shell Tuck.........................................................................26

Decorative Effects

XI. Applications of the Multiple Stitch Zigzag. . .27-28

Overcasting.......................................................................27

Patching............................................................................27

Mending a Tear/Daming

Elastic Application ..........................................................28

Understitching Facings .................................................. 28

Decorative Effects............................................................28

XII. Applications of the Overlock Stitch .........................29—30

Seams

...........................................................................

Nylon Tricot Seams..........................................................29

Applying Elastic ..............................................................29

Ladder Stitch Hemstitching

Topstitching ................................................................... 30

XIII. Applications of the Straight Stretch

Stitch................................................................................31

Seams ..............................................................................31

Topstitching .....................................................................31

XiV- Applications of tne oiira Siretcn Stucn

Seams

..............................................................................

Elastic Application ..........................................................31

XV. Use of the Accessories

Twin Needle Sewing Effects ...........................................32

Pin Tucks

Decorative Designs ................................................32

Yam and Cord Sewing.....................................................33

Zipper Foot/Zippers/Cording ..........................................33

Quilting Guide

;AA. ..c.iaumoZpcc:;.: ..c.cs .....................................................34

Roller Foot Overcast Foot

Blind Hem Foot................................................................34

Rolled Hem Foot .............................................................34

Fringe Foot.......................................................................34

XVn. Care and Maintenance of Your

Sewing Machine

Changing Needles ...........................................................35

Cleaning...........................................................................35

Procedure for Oiling

Changing the Light Bulb

XVin. Minor Problems and Their Solutions................................37

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page

19 20

22—24

25—26

30 30

32—33

34 34

35—36

Page 3

I. Feattires and Parts Principle Parts

Picture Window

pictures the stitches and allows for easy selection.

regulates the amount of tension on the needle thread.

regulates the flow of thread throu^ the needle. It has an open-slot to simplify threading. The take up lever should always be in its highest position when beginning or ending sewing.

Descriptive Tension Dial

Take-Up Lever

opens to the left. Allows easy changing of the light bulb.

helps control the flow of thread through the needle.

Needle Clamp Screw

holds the needle in place. holds presser foot in place.

Diamond Point Feed Dog moves the fabric after each stitch is formed. The diamond points give a gentle feed for delicate fabrics as well as an accurate feed for heavy fabrics.

holds the fabric in place for sewing. Various feet

are given in the accessory box.

slides open for changing the bobbin.

has guide lines on the left and right for greater sewing accuracy.

Face Plate

Check Spring

Thumb Screw

Presser Foot

Slide Plate

Needle Plate

controls the raising and lowering of the presser foot. It has an extra lift for the placement of heavy fabrics.

is located on the back of the presser bar for

convenience.

hold aU types of spools effectively and eliminates over-spin of lightweight spools.

Presser F oot Lever -

Thread Cutter-

Spool Pins and Caps

Page 4

Pattern Selector selects the stitch shown above the indicator in the

picture window.

Hand Wheel

controls the up and down movement of the needle

bar. Always turn it toward you.

Coupling Wheel

releases the movement of the needle bar in order to wind a bobbin.

Stitch Length Dial

allows for precise adjustment of stitch length from very fine to very long.

Push Button Reverse

allows for easy backtacking to lock thread ends. Stitch Width Lever

allows for precise adjustment of zigzag stitch

width as well as tapering.

Zigzag Width Lever Stops

left lock determines the minimum width stitch, while right lock controls the maximum.

Bobbin Winder

automatically disengages from hand wheel when bobbin is filled to the proper level.

Power Switch

turns on both the motor and light simultaneously.

Allows selection of high or low speed.

Bobbin Winder Tension Disk

controls the tension on the thread as the bobbin is being wound.

Needle Position Dial

is variable and may be set in any position from the left to the right.

ecu iyog ^oiUiO.

adjusts the height of the feed dog for special sewing applications.

Pressure Control

controls the amount of pressure on the fabric. It is numbered to make adjustment easier. Normal pressure is # 5.

Foot Holder

holds the foot. It is easy to exchange the sole.

Page 5

Accessories

Your new White Rotary sewing machine comes equipped with the following set of accessories to make your sewing

easier.

Four Metal Bobbins

The bobbins have holes in

one side for convenient bobb in placement.

Needles

light ball point needles, two each of sizes 11, 14 and 16 are provided. Two twin need

les are also included.

TSvo Felt Washers and Spool Caps

Place felt washers on spool pins under the spools and place caps over the spools tightly for best stitching re sults.

(jilting Guide

Helps make parallel rows of

stitching.

Buttonhole Foot

Is adjustable and regulates proper buttonhole length every time.

Button Sewing Foot

To hold button in place for stitching.

Cording and Zipper Foot

For stitching very close to the edge of a cord or zipper.

Screw Drivers

Small one for use on bobbin tension. Large one for use on thumb screw, needle clamp screw, etc.

Qoth Guide with Screw

Aids in creating straight seams.

AU Purpose Foot & Zigzag

Needle Plate

For all utility sewing.

Straight Stitch Foot and

Straight Needle Plate

For straight stitching on sheer or , very lightweight materials where extra control

is needed.

Embroidery Foot

Has a wide groove on the bottom which allows the foot to pass over dense stitches, such as satin stitches or other

decorative stitches. Do not

use this foot for normal

sewing of lightweight fabrics.

1** A

111

b=c

* —^

Tubed Oiler

For use in oiling the machine.

See page 34.

Seam Ripper

For cutting the openings in buttonholes and for removing stitches.

Bobbin Extractor

For easy removal of bobbin from the bobbin case.

Lint Brush

For removing all lint.

Page 6

n. Installation of Machine Head

Portable Case

Lay the sewing machine unit face down on a table. On the underside of the back of the sewing machine are two clamping screws (A). These enter the head hinge holes (B). Release

the clamping screws.

On the base of the portable case are two head hinges (C). Lower the sewing machine onto the base, fitting the hinges (C) into the holes

(B). Tighten the clamping screws securely with a screw driver. Place machine in an upright sewing position. Machine will snap

under portable case clamp securing it in correct position.

Draw the two electrical leads through the slot

in the base. Plug cord labeled motor into the

receptacle marked motor on the block attach ed to the outer section of the base. Insert the

other cord into the receptacle marked light. Insert plug into a wall outlet. (110-115 volts)

Cabinet

Lay the sewing machine unit face down on a table. On the underside of the back of the sewing machine are two clamping screws (A). These enter the head hinge holes (B). Release the clamping screws.

On the cabinet are two head hinges (C). Tilt them up and back as far as they will go. (Hint: Stretch a rubber band across the two hinges to help hold them upright while mounting the sewing machine unit.)

Carefully lower sewing machine onto the head hinges, making sure to insert the hinges

as far into the hinge holes as they will go.

With the sewing machine in its tilted position,

tighten both clamping screws securely with a screw driver.

Plug the electrical leads into the sockets located inside the cabinet. Plug the cord labeled motor into the receptacle marked

motor on the block attached to the inside of the cabinet. Insert the other cord into the receptacle marked light. Insert plug into a wall outlet. (110-115 volts)

NOTE: Where three wire grounding is provided connect the plug from the sewing machine to the connection leading from the

control. One prong is larger than the other three, eliminating the possibility of error. Insert plug into wall outlet. (110-115 volts)

Page 7

Ш. Preparing Machine to Sew

Winding the Bobbin Disengage the hand wheel by holding it

tightly with your left hand and turning the

coupling wheel toward you with your right hand. (Fig.21) Place spool on spool pin, leaving about one foot of thread free, then

place spool cap over spool as shown (Fig. 22) until it holds the spool in place. Lead thread

as illustrated. (Fig. 23) Run the end of the thread through the single hole on one side of

the bobbin, and place bobbin on spindle of

bobbin winder with the four holes of the

bobbin facing to the right. Turn the bobbin

until it clicks into place.

Lift bobbin winder until it makes contact

with the hand wheel. Hold thread end securely and run machine slowly. Bobbin will stop turning when filled. Always break off loose thread end used to start the winding. Tighten the coupling wheel by turning it away from you as you hold the hand wheel in

...........

■ 23

place. The needle should now move when you turn the hand wheel.

Note: If the bobbin winds unevenly, adjust

bobbin winding tension disc to the right or

left by loosening the screw and sliding it. When disc is in proper position, tighten screw. (Fig.24)

Lower Tlireading

Drop the bobbin, with four holes on top, into the hook and be sure the bobbin rotates counter clockwise. Draw the thread through the slot and toward the left into the clearance between hook and spring. (Fig. 25) Put the thread through the notch at the end of the spring and leave the thread about three or four inches long. Close the slide plate allowing the thread to emerge through the notch above the window. Thread should cross

from the left across the top of the bobbin.

Note: For satin stitching, drop the feed dogs

to down and slip the thread into the clip at the back of the hook. (Fig.26)

Page 8

Upper Threading

1. Turn hand wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever to its highest position. Presser foot should be in the raised position.

2. Lead thread from the spool as illustrated, (Fig. 22) being sure to place the spool cap so that it holds the spool securely. Draw the thread between the tension discs and

around toward the right until it emerges under the finger like projection. Bring the thread through the succeeding points as illustrated. Thread the needle from front to

back and leave the thread about three or

four inches long. (Fig. 27)

3. Hold upper thread down on slide plate and turn hand wheel toward you one complete

revolution. Pull the loop which has been formed through to the upper surface. (Fig.

28)

Place both thread ends under the presser foot and draw them toward either the right or left leaving both threads about four

inches long. (Fig.29)

Page 9

rv. Choosing the Right Needle

Types of Needles

The correct selection of needle to suit the thread and fabric being sewn gives the best stitching results. Fine fabrics should be sewn with fine needles, heavier fabrics with heavier needles. For best results, sewing machine

needles should be replaced when they become even slightly dull or bent or at the completion of every other garment.

A regular needle is suggested for use with woven fabrics. Needles, style 15x1, (Euro

pean equivalent System 705) are used on the majority of household sewing machines. They range in sizes from 8 to 20 with the lower number indicating the finer needle. The most commonly used sizes are 11 and 14.

A ball point needle is recommended for use

with tricots, jerseys, lingerie and power nets. Unlike sharp, pointed needles, which pierce fibers of knit fabrics, destroying elasticity, the

ball point sUps between fibers, preventing

damage to fabric and skipped stitches. These are available in fine, medium, and heavy ball points.

A wedge point needle is recommended for use

with leather and leather-look vinyls. A wedge

cutting point pierces leather more easily than

ordinary sewing machine needles, resulting in

more satisfactory stitching.

An all purpose needle is designed to handle knits as well as woven fabrics. It eliminates

skipped stitches and the slight ball will not

damage delicate fabrics. This is the needle

provided with your sewing machine and will

be used for most of your sewing. A larger ball

point may still be necessary for certain knits,

such as bathing suit fabric or power net.

Page 10

Needle

Stitdiing

Guide

The correct selection of needle and thread to suit the fabric will result in more satisfactory stitching. Fine fabrics should be stitched with fine needles, fine thread and short stitches.

For best results on heavier fabrics, use coarser needles,

heavier threads and longer stitches. Replace the

machine needle when it becomes even slightly dull or bent.

Consult

this chan whi'iiever

a difjereiit /17«'

of fai)rw

is lo he stili heil.

Thread

and needle .sizes

for various

kinds and weights

of fabrics.

KNITS

WOVEN

LEATHER

DECORATIVE

STITCHING

type of fabric

LIGHT WEIGHT

Tricot, Power Net

MEDIUM WEIGHT

Jersey, Double Knit, Power Net

HEAVY WEIGHT

Double Knit, Power Net

FAKE FURS ^VELOURS

VERY SHEER

Lace, Net, Chiffon, Voile

SHEER

Lawn, Taffeta, Blouse Crepe, Organdy

DRESS WEIGHT

Crepe, Wool, Brocade, Velvet

MEDIUM

Wool, Silk, Linen, Pique, Faille. Velveteen, Terrycloth

HEAVY

Denim, Duck, Sailcloth

EXTRA HEAVY

Canvas, Upholstery, Awning

VINYLS-ITLMS

LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT

Leathers & Suedes

HEAVY LEATHER

MACHINE EMBROIDERY

TOP STITCHING

METALLIC EMBROIDERY

mchine i

U.S. Size

European

15x1

9-10

11-14 80-90

14-16

9-11

11 80

14-16

16-18

9-11

16-18 100-110

70-80

90-100

9 70

14 90

90-100

100-110 Leather (Wedge)

11 80

705

70-80

100

120

60-80

cedles

Point Style

Light Ball

Light Ball to

Medium Ball

Medium Ball to

Heavy Ball

Ball or Sharp

Sharp

Leather (Wedge)

approxiuiate

straight stitches

per inch

10-14

16-18 10

14-16

6-8 3

hand

needles

4-5

7-8

6-7

3 4

7-8 50

3-4

ihrcac

Mercerized

Cotton

Heavy Duty 30

Heavy Duty

Heavy Duty 30 YES

Heavy Duty

Cotton Embr<

Silk Buttonhole Twist Size D

Metallic Thread

European

Cotton

50-70

>idery Thread Size 50-70

Polyester

30 YES

30 NO

30 YES

30 YES NO

YES

YES NO

Siìk

Nylon

A-Silk

Nylon A-Silk

Nylon

A Silk Nylon

A-Silk Nylon

A-Sìlk Nylon

A-Silk

attachments

Roller Foot

Page 11

Qianging the Needle

Always change the needle after every other garment especially when sewing on polyester and nylon fabrics which dull needles much faster. When needles are dull or bent, they damage both your fabric and the machine. A general rule when replacing sewing machine needles is that the flat side of the needle is placed to the back of the machine, when the bobbin is put in from the front. If the needle is inserted incorrectly, the stitches will not form.

To change the needle

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

2. Loosen needle clamp screw to remove the needle. (Fig.31)

3. Place needle (flat side to the back and long groove toward you) (Fig.31) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far as it will go, tighten clamp screw.

4. After changing the needle, make one complete revolution of the hand wheel by hand to be sure the needle is clearing

the needle plate.

Changing the Needle Plate

To change the needle plate, simply slide the cover plate toward you. Remove the needle and the presser foot. Remove the two screws holding the needle plate in place, lift the needle plate. Replace the needle plate.

The needle plate is removed for cleaning the lint which may pile up between the needle plate and the feed dop. The straight stitch needle plate is used for sewing very fine or soft materials. The zigzag needle plate can be

used for almost all of the normal sewing.

Page 12

V. Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine

Adjusting the Stitch

Reverse Button

1 2 3 4 5

Stop Lever

Pattern - M Length - 0-4 Width - 0

Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5

Foot - All Purpose

Pattern — M

Length - 2

Width - 0-5

Needle Position - M

Feed Dog - High Pt-essiire - 5

Foot - All Purpose

Stop

Stitch Length Dial

This dial (Fig.33) controls the forward

feeding of the fabric. At 0, the fabric does not feed at all. As the numbers increase so does the length of the stitch. Turn the blue

dial so that the desired number is above the blue line on the white button.

Reverse Button The white button in the middle of the stitch

length dial (Fig.33) will cause the feed dog

to feed the fabric backwards. This button may be used at the beginning and end of

sewing to lock the threads.

To backstitch, simply push the button in and hold for the desired number of stitches.

It is advisable to tie thread ends instead of backstitching on soft sheer fabrics to avoid

puckering.

Stitch Width Lever This lever (Fig.34) controls the swing of the

needle from left to right for various width of stitches. At 0 the needle does not swing,

therefore a straight line of sewing results no matter which pattern is selected.

At 1, the needle takes a narrow swing resulting in a narrow column of stitching. At

5, the needle takes a large swing resulting in a’wide column of stitches. (Fig.35)

Slide the blue lever to the desired number then push in the left hand stop (Fig. 34)

and slide it over to the blue lever. The stop will hold the lever in place.

Pattern - M Length - 0-4 Width - 5

Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5

Foot - All Purpose

Relating Stitch Length to Suich Width When the width lever is engaged at one

particular width (such as 5), the stitch length dial will now control how close those stitches come together. At length 0, the fabric does not move, resulting in a ball of stitches

formed one on top of the other, as is used in button sewing. At about length 14, the

feed pulls the fabric through slowly, resulting in a dense column of stitches called a satin stitch. At length 4, a very long open zigzag

results. (Fig.36)

Page 13

Pattern Selector

This dial (Fig. 37) selects the stitch pattern to be made according to the pictures shown at the blue indicator. Turn the silver selector dial to the right and the picture of the stitch

to be formed will be shown in the top position. The stitches shown are as follows:

1. M stands for manual position which

gives the standard straight stitch when the width is at 0 and the standard zigzag when the width is engaged.

2. Black boxes - indicate buttonhole steps

for four step buttonholes to be explain ed on page 22.

3. Blindhem ( $ ) - stitches forward then a zigzag bite to the left for use in hemming, shell tucking, and other ap plications. See page 25. Width 0 will give a straight stitch, all other widths

will give the blind hem stitch.

4. Multiple stitch zigzag ( iS ) - takes three

stitches from side to side for use in overcasting, applying elastics and mend ing as shown on pages 27. Width 0 will

give a straight stitch, width 5 is the best choice for use of the multiple stitch

zigzag. _

5. Overlock stitch ( e ) - takes one stitch to the left, one stitch backwards and then one stitch to the right to form a straight seam and overcast all in one operation.

This is excellent on both knits and wovens for Vi inch seams on width 5, and for the straight stretch stitch at width 0. See page 29. Straight stretch

stitch is discussed on page 31.

6. Ultra stretch stitch { } - takes stitches

then back on a diagonal. This stitch has the greatest strength and elasticity and is excellent for loose or bulky knits, such as sweater knits, bathing suit, and cotton knits. Use it at width 5 for

completed V* inch seams on knits. This stitch is never used on width 0. See page

31.

Pattern -

Length - 2

Width - 5

Needle Position - M

Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5 Foot - All Purpose

O' U O'

Needle Position This dial controls the location of the needle

in relation to the presser foot. (Fig. 38) Never move the needle position dial while

the needle is in the fabric because it will bend or break the needle.

The needle may be used in any position

between the left and right even though only three positions are labeled. L -Left M -

Middle R - Right The etched guide lines on the needle plate

are measured from the needle in the middle position.

Pattern - M

Length - 2

Width - 0-2

Needle Position - L, M, R

Feed Dog - High Prcbiuic - D Foot - All Purpose

Page 14

When straight stitching with the all purpose

foot, the needle may be moved to get closer to an edge or to make guiding of the fabric more convenient, as in topstitching. The needle can also be moved in relation to the zipper foot in order to take full advantage

of the feed dog.

Caution: When using the straight stitch foot

use the M position of the needle only.

Pattern - M

Length - 2

Width - 5

Feed Dog -

Pressure - 5

Foot - All Purpose

Adjusting for the Fabric Feed Dog Control

This lever (Fig. 39) will raise or lower the feed dog as indicated. Since the feed dog carries the fabric through the machine, this lever

allows the feed to be regulated for various

materials and types of sewing.

High: For the greatest height of the feed dog

and best grip on the fabric. This is the position used for most sewing.

Low: For less height of the feed dog and

more gentle hold on the fabric. This position is used for sewing delicate fabrics.

Down: In this position, the feed dog is

completely below the needle plate surface and therefore does not move the fabric at all.

Length - 2 Width - 0 Needle Position - .M Feed Dog - High

Pressure -

Foot - All Purpose

Pressure Control

This control (Fig. 40) regulates how heavily the presser foot rests upon the fabric. It is numbered from 0-5 with .stops at the half-way points as well. The higher the number the heavier the pressure. The lower numbers give lighter pressure. Zero gives no pressure.

Lighter weight fabrics need more pressure for

better hold against the feed, whereas heavier,

bulkier fabrics require less pressure to eliminate pushing on the top layer of fabric.

Normal pressure is 5.

Page 15

Tension Dial The top tension (Fig.41) consists of discs

between which the thread passes. The descriptive tension dial regulates how tightly the thread is being held. When necessary, adjust the top tension in relation to the red line, turning toward “loose” or “tight” as needed. The top tension is engaged only when

the presser foot is down for sewing.

The bobbin thread tension is controlled by

the left small screw on the front edge of the bobbin case. (Fig.42) This screw may be

turned with the small screw driver resting in the notch of the slide plate. Turn to the right

to tighten and to the left to loosen.

Adjusting the Tension

The tensions may have to be adjusted for certain fabrics. Before adjusting your tension

make sure that the machine is properly

threaded with identical thread on both top and bobbin. Use a new needle the correct

size for the thread and fabric being sewn. (See chart page 8.)

Pattern - M

Length - 2-3

Width - 0

Needle Position - M

Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5 Foot - All Purpose

It is best to test the tension on a scrap of the

fabric you are using for construction. Always

use a double thickness and always sew on the

bias when testing tension. The tensions are correct when the upper

thread and lower thread interlock between the two layers of fabric with the loops not showing on top or bottom. (Fig. 43)

Adjust as follows;

If the seam is puckered both top and

bobbin tensions are too tight. Loosen both tensions slightly. (Fig.43)

If top thread lays on the fabric with

bottom thread looping over it, the top tension is too tight. (Fig. 44) Loosen the top tension slightly.

If the bottom thread lays on the fabric

3. with the upper thread looping over U, top

tension is too loose. (Fig. 45) Tighten

top tension slightly.

Page 16

The Proper Presser Foot

Changing the sole Pull presser foot shank lever toward you, to

remove the sole. (Fig.46 Step 1) Place desired sole under shank and lower presser foot lever onto the sole. (Fig.46 Step 2) Sole will be locked in automatically. (Fig.46 Step

Step 1

Step 2

The All Purpose Foot

This foot (Fig.47) is flat on the bottom and has a wide hole to accommodate wide

stitches. This foot should be used for all of your normal sewing so that you can use any stitch without changing the foot. This foot is

fine for straight stitching. (If fabric is pulled down with the needle, use left needle position

for more control.)

The Embroidery Foot This foot (Fig.48) has a wide groove carved

out on the bottom. This groove allows the foot to pass over dense stitches such as the satin stitch without catching on the stitch.

It is transparent to make stitch placement easier. Do not use this foot for normal sewing

of lightweight fabrics. Since it is grooved, it will not hold the fabric taut enough to produce a good stitch.

The Straight Stitch Foot This foot (Fig.49) is flat on the bottom and

has only a narrow hole to accommodate only straight stitching. It may be used on sheer or

soft fabrics for more control when the all purpose foot allows the fabric to be pulled with needle. When using this foot, the needle position should always be on “M”, and

the width on “O” to avoid hitting the foot

and breaking the needle.

The Buttonhole Foot

This foot (Fig.50) has a frame. This frame holds the fabrics taut enough to produce a good buttonhole.

Page 17

VI. How to Sew

Pinning may be used as a time saver instead of

hand basting. Place your pins at right angles

to the edge of the fabric with the pin head at the raw edge. It is possible to sew over pins, but for best results it is recommended that the pins be removed as you approach the presser foot. Sewing over pins can result in

damaged needles.

Placement of Fabric/Starting a Seam Before placing fabrics under the presser foot, make sure that the take-up lever is at its highest position. Place your fabric so that its raw edge is even with the back edge of

the presser foot.

When placing a heavy, bulky fabric under the

foot push up on the presser foot lever for extra lift while you are positioning the fabric. (Fig.51) Place the thread ends, which are

3-4 inches long, under the presser foot and

either to the left or to the right. Be sure that

both thread ends are under the presser foot.

Always lower presser foot before sewing.

Press in the reverse button so that the

machine sews a few stitches backwards to the

edge of the fabric to backtack, then release

the button allowing the machine to continue

sewing forward.

Guiding the Fabric Etched Seam Guide

The etched seam guides on the needle plate

are graduated in 1 /8 inch divisions measured from the middle needle position. In order to use the etched guides effectively, let the edge of the fabric follow the line selected for the seam. Therefore, for a 5/8 inch seam, place the raw edge of the fabric on the line marked

“5/8”. (Fig.52) In order to sew a straight line, let your eye follow the etched lines, not

the needle. Cloth Guide

This guide may be placed on the machine for

extra help in keeping seams straight. It will allow you to guide seams from 1/4 inch to

1-1/2 inch in width, so that it is useful for

seams of unusual widths. (Fig.53)

Presser Foot as a Guide

Straight Stitch Foot - for a 1/4 inch seam, guide fabric using the first etched mark on the right side of feet. (Fig.54) All Purpose Foot - for a 1/4 inch seam, use the left needle position and guide the fabric

along the right side of the needle hole. (Fig.55) All Purpose Foot - for a 1/8 inch seam, use the middle needle position and guide the fabric along the right side of the needle hole. (Fig.56)

Holding the Fabric For most fabrics, it is not necessary to hold the fabric in both front and back. Merely guide the fabric with one hand from the

front.

Page 18

For the fine delicate fabrics, such as chiffon, georgette, and tricot, the best results will be

attained by holding the fabnc in front and back of the needle without pulling on it.

Turning Corners

To pivot at a comer, (Fig.57) leave the needle in the fabric while on the upswing so that the stitch is almost completed, thus preventing

the possibility of skipped stitches m the comer. Lift the presser foot and pivot the

fabric. Then, lower the presser foot and

continue sewing. Curved Seams

On a curved seam (Fig. 5 8) use a slightly

shorter stitch length than you are using for

the rest of the seams. For example, if length 2 is being used for the seams, a 1-1/2 stitch length would be preferred for curves. A

smaller stitch length will add strength and elasticity to the seam.

When guiding the fabric, keep your fabnc

edge on the etched seam guide line directly

across from the needle rather than on the forward part of the line. The seam guide may

be used on an angle as shown.

Sewing Across Heavy Seams

When approaching a heavy seam, (Fig.sy) hold the fabric upwards on an angle so that

the heavy seam falls under the upward curve

of the foot. This will help feed the heavy seam through the machine.

Ending Seam/Removal of Fabric.

Stitch to the edge of the fabric, then hold m

the reverse button and backstitch for a few stitches to reinforce the end of the seam.

Turn the hand wheel until the take up lever is in its highest position so that the «titc i

completed and the threads will P^ll freely^

Lift the presser foot and by drawing the threads to the left and back

kLping them under the foot so as to not

bend the needle. Cut the threads with the

thread cutter on the back of the presser bar.

Leave the thread ends three to four inches long.

Page 19

Vn. Applications of the Straight Stitch

Seams

The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 2,

but the length chosen should depend on. the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter

stitch length to add strength and elasticity to

the seam.

basting/ lopstitching

Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior to fitting. Basting stitches also may be used when gathering in fullness. Topstitching can be done very effectively with the long straight stitch. For a bolder stitch, two threads of the same type can be threaded through one needle (size 14 or 16). A heavier thread such as buttonhole twist may be used for topstitching, but be sure to use a larger needle (size 16 or 18). (Fig.60)

Darning

Worn spots or small holes can be darned very easily. Use of an embroidery hoop is optional depending on the fabric. (Fig.61) A fine thread is recommended so that the fabric and thread will blend together invisibly. When you use a fine thread, loosen upper thread

tension slightly.

Trim the ragged edges from the area to be darned. Hold the threads to start, then move

the fabric slowly backwards and forwards

while running the machine very fast to fill the

area. More professional results will be attained by moving the fabric in a figure eight pattern while sewing. After filling in the area lengthwise, reweave with crosswise stUches in the same manner.

Elastic Thread Shirring

Wind elastic thread onto bobbin, (Fig.62) as shown, letting the thread pass through your fingers. The thread should be wound smooth ly without stretching. Place bobbin in case as usual, being sure that the elastic is drawn through the tension. Use regular thread on

the top of the machine. Do a trial run on the chosen fabric to test length of stitch. Lay a piece of paper under the fabric to keep it from gathering up as you sew. This will enable you to sew many parallel rows of stitching without difficulty. Afterwards tear out the paper and the fabric will be gathered. (Fig.63)

Pattern - M Length - 1 -3 Width - 0 Needle Position - M Feed Dog — High or Low

Pressure - 3-5

Foot - Straight Stitch or

,411 Purpose

Pattern - M

Length - 4 Width - 0 Needle Position - L or M

Feed Dug — Highi or Low

Pressure - 3 — 5

Foot - All Purpose

Pattern - M

Length - 0 Width - 0 Needle Position - M Feed Dog - Low Pressure - 0 Foot - All Purpose or

Embroidery

Pattern - .M Length 2

Width - 0

Needle Position - M Feed Dog - nign Pressure - 5 Foot - .411 Purpose

...........

.......

.....■....

...

Page 20

Vin. Applications of the Zigzag Stitch

Pattern - M Length - I-3

Width — 5 Needle Position — M

Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5 Foot - All Purpose

Pattern - M Length - 1

Width - 1

Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5 Foot - All Purpose

Pattern - M Length - 0 Width 2-5 Needle Position - L

Feed Dog — Down Pressure - 5 Foot - Button Sewing

Overcasting

Place the e^dge of the material underneath the opening of the sewing foot and guide raw edge along the center groove of the foot,

allowing stitch to form half on and half off the fabric. (Fig.64)

The multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser choice for

most fabrics. See page 27.

Seaming Knits

The narrow zigzag can be used in seams of

firm knits for added strength. After sewing, open seam and press flat. Tiny zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the seam will give

when stretched. (Fig.65)

Sewing on Buttons Zigzag stitching is a very easy and convenient

method of sewing on buttons without a shank. (Fig. 66)

Place the button so its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the button sewing foot. Take a stitch into

the hole. Raise the needle from the left hole, and move zigzag width lever to the right until the needle comes down exactly over the right hole in the

button.

Note: Be sure the needle clears the holes of

the button by moving the wheel by hand

before running the machine fast.

Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for securing a button in place. Stop with the

needle in the left hole. To lock the threads, set the stitch width at 0, and take a few stitches in the left hand hole.

Forming a Thread Shank Buttons* sewn on coats or jackets should have a thread shank to make them stand away

from the fabric. (Fig.67) To form a thread

shank, sew over the blade of a regular sewing

machine needle. Insert needle into hole on the front side of foot.

After stitching the button to the fabric,

remove work from under the presser foot leaving threads about six inches from fabric. Remove needle. Pull the threads to back of

button and form a shank between button and

fabric by winding threads tightly around the attaching stitches. Pull threads to back of the

fabric and tie thread ends securely. (Fig.67)

Page 21

Satin Stitching

This is useful for decoration such as tapering,

manual designed embroidery, monogramming, and applique. (Fig.68)

The satin stitch, which is really just a very

close zigzag stitch, is obtained by setting the

stitch length as near to “0” as possible without stopping the feeding action. The setting will vary for different fabrics. It may be desirable to loosen the upper tension slightly to cause the threads to lock under neath, in order to make the top surface look especially smooth. For lightweight fabrics, place paper underneath the fabric while sewing for best results.

Tapering

Tapering is done by gradually increasing and decreasing the stitch width while sewing.

(Fig.69) By this method, tapered monograms

and other interesting designs can be created.

(Fig.70) For tapered monogram run the

machine fast while sliding the width dial lever slowly from narrow to wide and from wide to narrow.

Pattern - M Length - ‘4

Width - 1^5

Needle Position ^ M Feed Dog — High

Pressure 5 Foot -- Emhroiderv

,'n

Length

Width - 0

Needle P'o Feed Dog

root — tr

0-L

Hiuh

troidi

First, learn this stroke by letting the fabric guide straight and trying different needle positions. Then, learn to pivot the fabric as you are tapering by holding the fabric at one

point. Various strokes can be combined to

form letters and designs. Variegated thread can give attractive results.

Manual iimoroiGer

Desiiins

Different designs can be made by sliding the stitch width lever control (disengaging both stops) between 0 and 5. By running the machine at a constant speed and sliding the lever in a definite rhythm, various designs

can be created. (Fig.71)

Pattern - M Leneth - O-M Width ^0^5

A M

W ^

. % 1 i

f \

1 1

Feed Dog — High Pressure - 5

Foot - Embroidery

Page 22

Pattern — M

Length - 0

Width - 1-5

Needle Position - M Feed Dog - Low Pressure — 0

Foot - Embroidery or

All Purpose

Step 1 Pattern — M

Length — 1 Width - 0-1 Needle Position - M

Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5

Foot - Embroider^'

Step 2 ,

Pattern - M

Length - '/4—'/2

Width - 2-4 Needle Position - M

Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5

Foot - Embroidery

Freehand Monogramming

For giving garments and linens a personalized touch, first transfer the design to the right side of the fabric. An embroidery hoop is recommended especially for soft fabrics and

toweling. (Fig.72) When you monogram loosen upper thread tension slightly. In order to monogram, you must move the fabric slowly and run the machine rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by moving the

paper under a stationary pen. Guide the fabric slowly so that the zigzag falls close together like a satin stitch, but be careful that the stitches do not pile up. When guiding from

side to side, move fabric slightly faster to avoid a heavy area.

Practice by forming loops. Once this is

accomplished any letter is easy.

Sometimes the use of paper or non-woven

interfacing under the fabric may make guiding the fabric easier. The paper or interfacing may be tom or cut away at the completion of the monogram. When monogramming towels,

plastic film placed on the top will help cover loops and make the monogram smooth. Pull

or cut away remaining plastic film when finished.

Applique Applying decorative shapes of fabric scraps to household articles and colthing is a very

interesting way of trimming an otherwise plain article. First, trace the design on fabric

to be appliqued, then pin or baste it securely

in place on garment. With a small straight

or L

stitch or narrow zigzag, sew around the transferred design. (Fig.73)

After excess fabric is trimmed away, sew around the applique with a satin stitch. For a smooth curve, stop frequently at the inside

edge of the curve to pivot the fabric slightly. Corners look much better when the point is stitched by pivoting rather than just turned.

As with all decorative stitches, paper may be used to give more body to the fabric when

stitching and can be torn away when the applique is completed. (Fig.74)

Note: Bobbin thread should be placed

through the clip for all operations described on page 19 and 20.

Page 23

Gathering Over a Cord Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch often

breaks while pulling in fullness. A small zigzag across a cord such as crochet thread or carpet thread, gives a much stronger cord for gathering fullness into fabrics. (Fig.75) Once the gathers have been stitched in place, the

cord can be pulled out in order to eliminate bulk. (Fig.76)

Pattern - M

Length - 2 Width 3—4 Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5 Foot - Embroidery

Lace Application .Attaching laces or trims adds a special touch to lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or baste lace

in place easing or mitering comers where

necessary.

A straight edged lace or braid has a convenient line to follow when sewing. (Fig.77) When using a scalloped edged lace

follow the design of the lace for an almost invisible application. (Fig.78)

Lettuce Hem An unusual way of hemming or finishing edges of tricot or soft knits is by a lettuce

edge. (Fig.79) Hemming in this manner is just

like overcasting an edge, but the fabric is

stretched in back and in front of the needle

as you sew. For best results, pull the fabric

equally, making sure the needle goes over the

edge. (Fig.80) When you stop to reposition your hands, keep the needle in the fabric.

Pattern - M

Lenath —

'/2

— 1

Width -1-2

Needle Position. - M Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5 Foot - .A.I1 Purpose

Fatte

Page 24

85-1

Step 1

Step 2

Pattern - UlL_ Length — '/4

—/'2

Width — 3 — 5

Needle Position - M

Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5

Foot - Buttonhole

Built-in Buttonhole This buttonhole eliminates the need or

pivoting the fabric. It is used most often on

light and medium woven fabrics.

1 Set pattern selector dial for the first

’ buttonhole position. Lower needle into

the mark at the end of buttonhole. Lower

presser foot and take a few stitches to

bartack. (Fig.85-1 Step 1) 5 With needle out of the fabric, turn pattern “■ selector dial to second picture. Sew up

left side of buttonhole until the white nylon slide runs into the back of lip of

the foot. At this position, the machine is feeding in reverse. (Fig.85-1 Step 2)

IX. Buttonholes

Various fabrics require various methods of sewing buttonholes. Four different methods are given below, with suggested uses. If you

are in doubt as to which method is best for vour fabric, test the methods in question and choose the best according to the finished

appearance. ,

preparation

For the best results, a good quality mercerized cotton thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes. The tiner

your fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should be.

An interfacing should be used under the buttonholes to give body, to strengthen, and

to help them withstand wear.

To establish the correct length of the

buttonhole, add the diameter of the button (A) plus the thickness of the button (B), plus

l/g’inch for the bartacks. (Fig. 81) The length

may be marked on the garment with a basting stitch, tailor’s chalk, or transparent tape.

Another way to make sure that all button holes will be the same size is to cut a piece

of cardboard as wide as the buttonhole foot and long enough to make the distance between the toe of the white slide and the

cardboard the size buttonhole needed. (Fig.

82) This method works for buttonholes up to 1 1/8 inches long. Horizontal buttonholes

should extend 1/8 inch beyond the center line of the garment. (Fig. 83) Vertical buttonholes

are placed so that the cutting space of the buttonhole is directly on the center line.

(Fig. 84)

Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap

of the garment fabric before making any

buttonholes on your garment. On your test

sample, duplicate the thicknesses found in the garment and be sure to include the

interfacing. The test sample should help determine the length needed for the button to pass through the hole easily, as well as the stitch length needed for the particular fabric.

As with the satin stitch, the stitches should be close together, but not so close that they pile

up. Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.

Page 25

3. With the needle up select the third buttonhole picture on the pattern selector

dial. Sew a few stitches to bartack. (rig.

85-1 Step 3) . , . .

4 With the needle out of the fabric, turn

' to the final buttonhole picture on the

pattern selector dial and complete he riaht side of the buttonhole. White nylon

slide will run into cardboard so you

cannot go beyond first bar tack. (Fig.so 1 Step 4)

5. To lock the stitches, make sure the needle is out of the fabric and set width at 0.

Then take a few stitches.

6. Score the buttonhole with the back edge of the seam ripper several times. To prevent cutting through the bartack, insert a straight pin through the bartack.

Cut buttonhole open with the seam

ripper. (Fig.85—2)

Turn-around Buttonhole Turning the fabric for buttonholes gives

better results in certain situations. This memod may be desirable for making the top button hole at the neck or waistband near thick

enclosed seam allowances. It is also excellent to use when repairing worn buttonholes on

ready-made garments, or

the stitches have been cut accidently when cutting open the buttonhole. When using tlus method over a buttonhole which has already

been slit, be sure to hold the buttonhole open

and allow the needle to go off the edp of the fabric at the right. On soft or stretch fabrics,

use paper underneath.

1 Set the needle position to the left. With

■ zigzag width at 2V2, start at the end of the buttonhole marking. Sew down the

left side of buttonhole until you reach the end marking. Leave the needle m fabnc

at the right side of the stitches. Lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric around until the first row of stitching is directly

in front of the presser foot. (Fig.86)

Slide buttonhole foot up to the end of foot, so the other side of buttonhole

can be made.

2. Lower presser foot and raise the needle. Move width to 5 and take several stitches on top of one another to bartack. Hold

the fabric to prevent feeding. Stop needle in fabric at the left side of stitches. (Fig.

87) . .

3. Raise the needle and return zigzag to in

width. Complete second side of button

hole, stopping the needle in the tabnc

at the left of the end marking, or when

the nylon slide runs into cardboard insert. (Fig.88) .

4. With needle up, move width to 5 again and take several stitches while holding the

fabric to prevent feeding. (Fig.89)

5. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches at 0 width. Cut buttonhole as indicated

93 previously, (page 23)

85-1

Step 3

Pattern — M

Length — Vi—’/2 _ Width -2Vi-5-2y2-5-0

Needle Position - L

Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5

Pool - Buttonhole

85-2

Page 26

I’attcrn - M

Lcnuth - '4 -'4

Width -- 2'2-5-2'2-5Needle Position — L

Feed Dog ^ High Pressure — 5 Foot — Buttonhole

Pattern -

Leneth — 4—0Width - 2H-5-2' Needle Position Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5 Foot — Buttonhoit

-0-0

-5-0

L Uli i iOiilUhC

Cording gives a reinforced raised buttonhole.

It is excellent for use on bulky, woven fabric,

or knits in which the stitching often gets

buried and makes cutting difficult. On knits,

a corded buttonhole will help keep the fabric

from stretching out of shape.

Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or

buttonhole twist to use for cording. Proceed as for the built-in buttonhole (Page 22) - Loop cord around the front prong and under the presser foot in such a way that the zigzag

stitch covers the cord.

At the completion of the buttonhole snip the

excess cord close to the bartack on woven fabrics. For knitted garments, always pull the cords to the wrong side by using a darning needle or needle threader and knot the cord ends before clipping.

Stretch Buttonhole This buttonhole is used on knit fabrics when it is desirable to omit interfacing or cording. This buttonhole will stretch and return to

shape unlike an ordinary zigzag buttonhole.

The ifisX pattern of the stitch makes the bu

ttonholes nearly invisible when using match

ing thread. It is excellent to use on jerseys,

double knits, and sweater fabrics. (Fig.91)

I I

Set the needle position to the left. With the width at 2'/2, start at the end of the buttonhole marking. Sew down the left side of buttonhole until you reach the end marking or cardboard insert. Leave needle in fabric at the right side of the stitches, lift the presser foot. Pivot the

fabric and slide sole up to the end of foot so the other side of buttonhole can be made. -

Lower the presser foot and raise the needle. Move the stitch length to 0 and the width to 5. Sew several stitches to bartack. Stop the needle in fabric at the right side of stitches.

With the needle up, move the stitch length back to 4 and the width to IVi. Complete the second half of the button

hole, stopping the needle in fabric at the

left of the end marking.

With the needle out of the fabric, move

the stitch length to 0 and the width to 5.

Bartack several stitches.

With the needle up, slide the stitch width

to 0 and take several stitches to lock the threads. Cut buttonholes as indicated

previously (page 23).

Page 27

X. Applications of the Blind Hem Stitch

Hemming

The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem

finish that is almost invisible on garments drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with

straight or slightly curved hems, ^ith a littk practice it will be a very quick and easy hem

application and the hem will never need repairing.

Procedure; . (1) Prepare raw edge of hem “ desired

manner, such as overcast, 1/4 men stitched under, pinked, hem tape, or just

plain. (Fig.92-Stepl)

Fold hem up desired length.

Baste or pin 1/2 inch from upper edge. Press in place. (Fig.92—Step2) ,, , .

(3) Fold hem back toward right side of fabric

leaving about 1/4 inch extended. (Fig.92-Step3)

(4) Adjust your stitch width and neeuie

position (Fig.93) so that the zigzag i e of the stitch comes just slightly to the lett

of the center cut of the presser foot Then the fold of the fabne may be guided

into the center cut of the presser foot tor

a perfect hem. The straight stitches should be formed on the single thickness

of fabric, and the zigzag bite should catch

just barely into the fold of the fabric at

Pattern - <1

Length - 2

Width - 2-3

Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High

Pressure - 5 Foot - All Purpose

(S') When stitching is completed, (Fig.94)

remove fabric from machine and turn to

right side. Press completed hem.

When hemming an A-line skirt, p ace a

machine basting stitch along the raw edge the hem. At an ironing board, fold up the hem, matching the seams. Ease in the excess

fabric by pulling on basting thread. Press with steam, then apply hem tape. Baste or pin hem

1/2 inch from taped edge, then continue in о

step 3.

; >

Page 28

Pattern -

Length - ‘/2-I Width ^ 5 Needle Position — M

Feed Dog High Pressure — 5

Foot — All Purpose

Shell Tuck

The blind hem stitch gives a very effective and

easy way to make a shell tuck for lingerie,

pillowcases, and decorative finishes. (Fig.95) This works well on knits or on the bias of soft, woven fabrics. A single folded bias tape may be tucked in this manner, and then

applied under a fold for a decorative hem on pillowcases or applied with the facings at the neckline or armhole for a decorative finish.

Fold under the edge where the shell tuck is to be created. Place the bulk of the fabric to the right of the needle with the folded edge to the left. Place the fabric so that the folded

edge will be guiding into the center cut of

the foot. The straight stitches will form on

the fabric, and the zigzag bite will swing to the left off of the folded edge. (Fig.95) The shell edge is created as the needle swings back onto the fabric. The size of the “shell” can be varied by changing the stitch length.

1 j ; ;

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—

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: <

t- _

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1 ;

: < > i ; <

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/T “ * F

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Needle Positicn - .M

Feed Dog ^ High Pressure ^ 5 Foot ^ All Purpose

Decorati"? Effe-''

By sewing two adjacent rows of blind hem stitching on lace or ribbon attractive decora tions are created. (Fig.96) The stitch may be pivoted when the zigzag bite swings to the left

and the points matched in the second row.

Another variation alternates the zigzag bites in the center of the straight stitched segment.

The stitch may also be pivoted after three

straight stitches to form a snowflake-like pattern.

A flower design can be created by starting at the center of the zigzag bite, then pivoting at the end of each petal as shown. Four more petals can be added if desired.

Page 29

. f-f-. .o \j t Htc iviuitLIpiC OtiLUIl ¿LiyZdy

Overcasting

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent choice for overcasting. (Fig.97) It keeps the fabric flat and prevents raveling. For most

fabrics, this stitch is better than the zigzag

stitch for overcasting.

The stitch should fall right at the raw edge of

the fabric. Feed the fabric under the presser foot by guiding the raw edge along the right hand side of the hole in the presser foot.

Pattern - 7:

Length - '/;-l

Width - 5

Needle Position ^ M

Feed Dog - High

Pressure - 5 Foot - All Purpose

Patching The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent stitch for patching. It is stronger than the

zigzag and the tiny stitches bury into the fabric to make an almost invisible stitch when using matching thread.

Place the patch over the right side of the worn or damaged area. Sew around the patch with the multiple stitch zigzag letting the last stitch

to the right overcast the edge of the patch. (Fig.98) When turning comers leave the needle in the fabric at the comer. (Fig.99) Usually this will be the furthest stitch to the right or left. In this way, the eomers are doubly stitched and very strong. When the patch is stitched in place, trim away the excess worn fabric on the wrong side of the patch. (Fig.

100)

Mending a Tear or Instant Darning

The multiple stitch zigzag provides a strong and easy repair for tom garments. It gives an almost invisible mend, especially when a fine darning thread is used.

To mend a tear, hold the tom edges close together and stitch down the middle. (Fig.

101) If the tear is guided under the slot in the middle of the presser foot, stitching will be equal on both sides. If necessary, sew again on either side of the first row of stitching making sure the needle catches the stitch in the center. With very worn or frayed fabric,

place a piece of lightweight interfacing or cotton batiste under the tear for reinforce ment.

Pattern - ‘A

Length Width - 5 Needle Position - M

Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5

Foot ^ All Purpose

Pattern - Lp

Length

Width - 5

Needle Position M Feed Dog - High

Pressure - 5

Foot - All Purpose

101

Page 30

■^1 '

102

f ■ - ■ r-is. Vi^.

104

'j.' -t,'

/.V-'i '■ 'r^";

rail cm ' . .

Length - m - 1 Width — 5 Needle Position ^ M Feed Dog ^ High Pressure — 5

Foot - All Purpose

103

■:

Applying elastic to lingerie or soft knit fabrics is easy when using the multiple stitch zigzag. Cut the elastic 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. Overlap the raw ends to form a circle and stitch with a tiny zigzag to

form a box as shown. Fold the elastic into quarters or eighths and mark with pins. Do the same with the waistline of the garment. (Fig. 102) Place the elastic about Id inch from the top edge of the fabric, matching the pins.

Place under the presser foot and begin stitch

ing. As you stitch, place the forefinger of each

hand on the fabric at either side of the presser

foot. (Fig. 103) Stretch the fabric exactly at

the point where the needle is sewing over the

elastic and the fabric. This will ease your

fabric and elastic together as you sew. The

amount of ease is dependent on how much

you stretch the fabric. In this way you never

need to stretch the elastic, which can be

damaged and stretched out of shape. Trim

off excess fabric above elastic near the stiches.

» s

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105^

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Pattern — m

Length 1

Width ^ 5

Needle Position -- M Feed Dog High Pressure ^ 5

Foot - All Purpose

Pattern W: Length — 1^2 Width ^3-5

Needle Position ^ M Feed Dog High Pressure — 5 Foot - All Purpose

Understitching Facings

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent

choice for understitching and eliminating bulk

in facing seam allowances. (Fig. 104) After

attaching the facing to the garment, trim and

clip the seam allowance as usual. Press the

seam allowances toward the facing and use

the multiple stitch zigzag close to the seam,

stitching through the facing and the seam

allowances. Using a matching thread, the

stitch will blend into the fabric and prevent

excess bulk. This is much more successful

than a straight stitch for understitching. It really helps to keep the facinp from rolling.

Decorative Effects

As with the blind hem stitch, the multiple

stitch zigzag can be used for many decorative

combinations. (Fig. 105) If the stitch is pivoted when the needle reaches the far left or right of its swing, and the points are carefully matched, a tracery diamond shape results. On the other hand, if rows of the multiple stitch zigzag are sewn with the points falling directly under each other, a wavy pattern is

produced. Flowers may also be produced. Start in center; pivot at points shown. Add four more petals if desired.

Page 31

Seams

This stitch gives a finished % inch seam in one step. For knits, it gives strength and elasticity

to the seams and prevents the curling of the fabric that often occurs with 5/8 inch opened seams. It is most applicable to soft, thin knits such as nylon or acetate knits, but may be used on other fabrics as well. Always make

test seams with this stitch and with the Ultra Stretch Stitch and choose between the two according to performance on the particular

fabric. For woven fabric, the overlock stitch gives

strength and prevents raveling. It can be used on woven goods to replace flat felled or

French seams.

For patterns with ’A inch seams: (Fig. 106)

Place the raw edge of the fabric under the

presser foot so that as the needle swings to

the right, it comes down at the raw edge. This

will result in an enclosed seam allowance.

For patterns with 5/8 inch seams: (Fig. 107)

The seam allowances may be trimmed to 14

inch either before or after sewing. If trimming

before sewing, proceed as above. Otherwise,

sew the seam with the raw edge of the fabric

on the etched guide line “14”. (Any time you use the full width of a particular stitch, you should readjust the raw edge of the fabric

1/8 inch to the left.) Afterward, trim the excess fabric near the stitching. This method is actually easier than the overedge method

for fabrics that curl.

Note: On soft, loose knits, the fabric may

seem to wave or ripple. If this occurs, reduce

the pressure (Page 12).

Pattern — Length - 4

Width - 5

Needle Position -- M

Feed Dog - High Pressure — 4 or 5 Foot - .4.11 Purpose

107

Nylon Tricot Seams

The overlock stitch is excellent for use on

fine fabrics such as nylon tricot. Lingerie or tricot seams should only be about 1/8 inch finished width. Use size *11 needle for better

seams.

If your pattern has wide seams, trim them

down to /4 inch while cutting out the pattern.

Guide the raw edges of the fabric into the center slot of the presser foot. On the right, the needle will stitch over the edge resulting in a finished rolled seam of 1/8 inch. If a

pucker results when stitching, a looser tension is needed.

Stitching in this manner can also be used to

form a rolled hem on the raw edge of a scarf.

.Applying Elastic The overlook stitch gives a very finished appearance to elastic application. (Fig. 108)

See instructions for elastic application on

Page 28, but use this stitch instead of the

multiple stitch zigzag.

Pattern -

Length Width - ; Needle Po

Feed Dog

i .Nitiuil -

- High

Pressure -

Foot - A

nose

Pattern -

Length — 4

Width ^ 4 or 5

Needle Position - M

Feed Dog — High

Pressure — 5

Foot -- All Purpose

108

Page 32

109

Pattern - XiiX Length - 4 Width - 5 Needle Position — M Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5 Foot — All Purpose

110

.à

Ladder Stitcli

This stitch gives a very effective means of sewing fake furs and soft leathers to produce a seam with no bulk. It is also very effective in a contrasting color as a decorative accent for special seams, such as raglan sleeves or for applying an edge trim. (Fig. 109)

Place the bulk of your fabric to the right of

the needle and the raw edge so that the

needle will swing off the fabric at the left.

(Fig. 110) The left side of the stitch will be

formed off of the fabric to provide a very strong seam with only a tiny seam allowance.

Pull the seam open from the right side until the “rungs” of the ladder appear. The “rungs” become a decorative accent if a contrasting

thread is used. On fake fur, the nap can be

pulled up with a needle to hide the stitches

and create an invisible seam.

Pattern Length - 4 Width — 3-5 Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5 Foot

Purpose

Pattern - iCil Length — 4 Width - 3-5 Needle Position — M

Feed Dog — High Pressure - 4 or 5 Foot — All Purpose

Hemstitching

By using a very large needle and a fine thread an openwork effect can be attained which is beautiful for sewing the hems into table cloths, napkins, placemats, handkerchiefs, etc. Use a large needle, size 18 or 20, and a fine cotton thread. Tighten the upper tension

slightly, until the stitch looks better on the

underside than on top. (You will be sewing with your fabric face side down.) Turn up 1 inch then turn up 1 inch again to

form a hem of a double thickness of fabric. The bulk in comers can be eliminated by trimming away the excess, as shown, (Fig.

111) after having folded the fabric on all sides.

Stitch from the wrong side, so that the straight stitch forms on the single layer and the

zigzag bites on the double layer. (Fig. 112)

Stitch all the way to the edge of the fabric along all sides. (Fig. 113)

Topstitching

The overlock stitch can be used to topstitch

non-raveling fabrics such as felt or leather into

place for appliques or pockets.

Stitch so that the straight part of the stitch is formed over the edge of the leather, and only the zigzag part holds it on. (Fig. 114)

I i

Page 33

Xlll. Applications of the Straight Stretch Stitch

Seams

Tlus stitch may be used on knits and wovens

(Fig. 115), in areas of stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is excellent for curved seams such as armholes and crotch seams. For active wear such as ski pants and girdle fabrics which endure a lot of stress in bending and stretch ing, this stitch may be used for seaming throughout the garment.

CAUTION - It is difficult to remove this stitch from fabric. Pre-fit garment before using this stitch.

Topstitching Because this stitch is heavier than an ordinary

straight stitch, it is ideal for topstitching,

particularly on knits. Needle position may be varied from left to right in order to line up stitching closer to or farther from an edge. (Fig. 116)

XIV. Applications of the Ultfa-Stretch Stitch

Seams

On most knits, a (4 inch finished seam, such as the Ultra-Stretch or the Overlock Stitch, is

more desirable than a 5/8 inch opened seam

allowance. These stitches can create a neater, more professional finish, eliminate bulky seams, prevent curling, permit the garment to

“give” under stress, and at the same time they cut down on the amount of work involved in making a garment. If ever in doubt as to which of the two stitches to use, test both on

the particular fabric in question and choose according to their performance.

The Ultra-Stretch Stitch is excellent for stretch fabrics such as sweater knits, bathing suit knits, and cotton knits. It has the greatest strength and elasticity of all.

For patterns with % inch seam allowances:

Feed the fabric such that the needle goes over

the raw edge of the fabric when it swings to the right. (Fig. 117)

For patterns with 5/8 inch seam allowances:

Feed the raw edge of the fabric along the etched guide line “'/2”, then trim away the

excess fabric close to the stitching. (Fig. 118)

Pattern - XXX Length — 4

Width 0 Needle Position - M

Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5 Foot - All Purpose

Pattern - xXX Length - 4 ' Width - 0

Needle Position - L—M^R Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5

Foot — .All Purpose

Pattern - U.l Length - 4 Width ^ 5 Needle Pusiiion - ,\i Feed Dog ^ High Pressure - 4 or 5 Foot - .All Purpose

117

115

116

118

119

Elastic Application

Fold fabric over the elastic and stitch elastic and fabric at one time, using the ultra stretch

stitch. The straight part of the stitch should

form on the double layer of fabric next to the elastic and the angled part of the stitch should catch through the elastic. (Fig.l 19)

Pattern - iliLength - 4

Width — 5

Needle Position - .M

Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5

Foot — All Purpose

Page 34

120

121

Twin Needle Sewing Effects

To use a twin needle in the machine,

remove the single needle, and insert the twin needle into clamp with the flat side

to the back. (Fig. 120)

Threading of the machine when using a twin needle is the same as normal with these

exceptions: (Page 9)

1. Place thread, matching or contrasting m color, on each spool pin. and put spool

caps in place.

2. Hold both threads together as you follow

through thread guides as normal, but separate the threads at the tension. Pass

one thread through the upper disc and one

thread through the lower disc. (Fig. 121)

3. Then separate threads through arm thread guide (Fig. 122)

When using a twin needle only use the middle

needle position (M). Set the zigzag width lever at 2V2 to prevent needle breakage with a wide

stitch.

Pattern — M Length - 2-3 Width - 0-2>/i

Feed Dog — High Pressure — 5

Foot - Embroidery or

124

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,fg

// 0

% \\

// #

))

w \\

,//

// i(

\\ "X

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Pattern — Any

Length - Уг-2 Width - 0-2'/2 Needle Position - M

Feed Dog - High

Pressure - 5 Foot - All Purpose or

M Purpose

Embroidery

Pin Tucks ^

Narrow tucks, sewn with thread that matches the fabric, produce subtle decoration on plain

fabrics. Using the twin needle, sew straight lines on the fabric guiding the edge of the presser foot along each successive tuck to make parallel rows. Soft fabrics will be pulled

to form a soft crease. To achieve a tuck on a fabric, increase the top tension slightly. Heavier fabrics will produce two lines of straight stitching. Attractive pin tucks are

made with the multiple stitch zigzag as well as with a straight stitch. (Fig. 124)

HINT: Transparent tape makes straight lines easy to sew. Just sew with the presser foot

guiding along the edge of the tape. When sewing is completed peel off tape. (Fig.123)

Decorative Tucks or Desiims

Any stitch can be used with the twin needle

for decorative effects. (Fig. 125) Most attrac tive are the multiple stitch zigzag and blind

hem stitch for fancy tucks. The satin stitch or

tapered zigzag designs in two colors are effective for creative trims.

Remember to use no more than a 214 zigzag width for twin needle sewing.

Page 35

Yarn and Cord Sewing

Pearl cotton and lightweight baby or mending yams can be used on the bobbin. Simply wind

cord or yam on the bobbin in the usual manner (see page 5). By pass the tension, by threading the cord or yarn through the hole on the

hook as illustrated. (Fig. 126) Bring up bobbin cord or yam as usual. Select the desired stitch

and sew with the right side of the fabric down against the needle plate. Top tension may have to be adjusted slightly.

A straight stitch can be used for a very dyna

mic topstitch effect. Zigzag, multiple stitch zigzag, or blind hem stitch can make an

interesting decorative stitch. The overlook with yam can be used to make a stretch buttonhole on sweaters (see page 24). When using cord or yam with the ultra stretch stitch, a reinforced binding on blankets or

garment edges can be achieved. Experiment with cord or yam to test decorative or practi

cal uses.

Zipper Foot The zipper foot is used to sew in zippers

and insert cording.

126

127

128

Zipper

1. To sew the right side of zipper, set needle position dial at “L”, and stitch close to zipper teeth. (Fig. 127)

2. To sew the left side of zipper, set needle

position dial at “R” and stitch. Close to zipper teeth. (Fig. 128)

To insert cording

1. Set needle position dial at “L” and make the welting by sandwiching the cord into a bias strip of fabric. Stitch close to cord.

(Fig. 129) .

2. Set needle position dial at “R”. Sandwich

the welting between two layers of fabric with right sides together. Stitch a second

time. The needle stitches close to the cord through all thicknesses. (Fig. 130)

Quilting Guide Parallel straight lines are easy to sew with the

quilting guide. (Fig.131) Slide quilting guide through black clip on back of presser foot shank. Adjust the curved bar to the desired

distance from the needle. Sew the first

line of stitching as desired, and then for the

succeeding rows let the guide follow along the previous line of stitching. A straight stitch,

zigzag, or any other stitch may be used.

129

130

131

Page 36

XVI. Additional Sp»:ial Accessories

132

134

136

133

135

Roller Foot

Ideal for use on vinyls, imitation leathers,

jerseys, synthetics and velvets. This foot helps

keep both layers of fabric feeding the same. On very slippery fabrics, the roller foot helps prevent skipped stitches. (Fig. 132)

Overcast Foot

Zigzag overcasting may tend to roll the edge of some fabrics causing a bulky edge. The overcast foot helps to produce a flat edge.

The bar behind the needle hole holds the

threads firmly in a full width zigzag or overlock stitch to keep the stitches from drawing tightly together. (Fig. 133)

Blind Hem Foot

For all those who find machine blind hemming difficult, this foot gives a clear guide for the fold of fabric to follow. The blind hem foot is a fine accessory for those who like the strength and durability of machine hemming.

(Fig. 134)

Rolled Hem Foot

Recommended for narrow rolled hems on scarves, shirts, linens, and linings. This foot makes a very tedious hand sewing job very easy to do on a sewing machine. (Fig. 135)

Fringe-Foot Thick chenille type loops can add interest to appliqued flowers and animals. Used with a satin stitch this foot gives a plush texture to a design. Also used for hemstitching and tailor

tacking. (Fig. 136)

Page 37

XVII. Care and Maintenance of Your Sewing

Machine

1. Changing Needles

Always use the correct type of needle

for your machine. Always use the appropriate size

needle for the thread and fabric you are using.

Always change the needle after every

other garment.

Needles dull easily and when dull will

damage both your fabric and your

machine. Always put needle in machine cor rectly. It will cause stitches to be

skipped if it is inserted incorrectly.

Pulling on fabric while sewing will

bend the needle, which will sub

sequently break the needle and

damage the needle plate.

Cleaning

After each garment is completed, a

light cleaning is recommended. Use a

lint brush to clean bobbin case area, tension discs and needle bar. Keep machine covered when not in

use to prevent accumulation of dust and dirt particles.

Oiling

Use a pure oil, one that has no

detergents. It is best to buy oil manufactured specifically for sewing machine use. Other oils will eventual ly cause the mechanisms to lock up. Your machine should be oiled every

8-10 hours of use, using only one drop in each red oiling spot. Your

machine cannot be over-oiled but excess oil may drip and stain your garment.

Before oiling the machine remove the following:

139

The needle

(1)

The presser foot

(2)

The needle plate. Loosen the two

(3)

screws with the large screw driver, then lift off the plate. (Fig. 137) Do not lose the screws. The bobbin case. With your right

(4)

thumb, puO the black bracket up and to the ri^t. (Fig. 138) Lift out the bobbin case with your

thumb by pulling it to the right.

Use the lint brash to remove all lint

from the open area in the bed of the machine. In addition, open the face plate and clean above the needle bar. (Fig. 139)

Page 38

Using a sewing machine oil, place a single drop on each oiling point as illustrated, specifically those points

marked in red on your machine.

(Fig. 140) Run the machine to allow

the oil to penetrate.

After you have finished oiling the

machine replace the bobbin case by

placing case into the machine and

pushing toward the left until the

grooves fit. (Fig. 141) Place the screw

driver to the right of the black bracket

and force it toward the left and down.

To test bobbin case for correct place

ment, place thumb in center of the

case and pull toward the right. The black bracket and bobbin case should remain in place.

The needle plate should then be placed into its normal position and

the screws tightened, then the presser foot and needle are replaced. (pages 9 &14)

4. Changing the Light Bulb Open the'^face plate by pulling towards the left. Turn the light bulb counterclockwise to

remove. Replace the bulb by turning clock

wise. (Fig. 142)

141

142

A majority of service calls could be avoided by foUowing the above procedures and by first checking to see that the machine is;

1. Threaded properly.

2. That the bobbin is wound evenly.

3. That the needle is in the machine correctly.

Page 39

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VX/

1. Skipped stitches Skipped stitches have become a problem in recent years, especially with the appearance of knit fabrics and polyester threads on the market. Skipped stitches normally can be traced to four basic causes:

A. The Needle

The needle is dull or bent. Change it.

(1)

The needle is placed incorrectly in

(2)

the needle clamp. It is either backwards or the height is wrong. The wrong type of needle is being

(3)

used for the fabric. Use ball point needle on knits and wedge point needles for leathers and vinyls. The thread is too thick for the size of

(4)

needle being used. Use a larger

needle.

The Thread

(1) The machine is threaded incorrectly.

(2) Many brands of polyester thread are

too stiff and coarse thus making loop formation difficult or impossible. Change brands or use a cotton thread.

C. The Presser Foot

(1) The foot being used is not holding

the fabric taut enough over the needle plate hole, thus the fabric is being pulled up and down while stitching. Use the foot which gives

the most control possible for the particular job being done.

(2) There is not enough pressure on the

presser bar to hold the fabric firmly.

Increase pressure on the pressure

control.

D. The Fabric

If your machine skips stitches only on certain fabrics, try all of the above procedures before calling a repairman.

The fabric has a heavy finish on it

which deters stitch formation. Wash the fabric thoroughly before sewing.

Page 40

Tliread Breaking

A. Machine improperly threaded. B.

Thread is caught in a slit of the spool or under the spool.

Thread is dry or of poor quality. Tension is too tight.

D. E.

Starting the machine with take-up lever in the wrong position. Always start and end sewing with take-up lever in highest position.

Needle is bent, blunt, or has a bunon it.

Needle is not inserted correctly.

Thread is too coarse for needle being used.

Needle plate has been nicked by the needle, thus is sharp and cuts the

threads.

Needle Comes Unthreaded A. Take-up lever is not in correct posi

tion as you start sewing. Always start and end with your take-up lever in its highest position.

Needle Breaks A. Pulling on fabric while sewing bends

the needle, this may cause breakage if needle hits the plate. .

Needle is inserted incorrectly.

Needle is too fine for the type of

fabric. Needle is hitting pins.

D. E.

Presser foot is improperly fastened.

6. Threads Jam at Start of Sewing

Machine is improperly threaded.

Material Puckers A. Tensions are too tight. B. Improper threading. C.

Thread is too heavy for fabric.

Stitch is too long for fabric.

Needle is dull so it is difficult to pierce fabric. The presser foot being used is not holding the fabric taut enough.

A. Hold the threads tightly for the first

B. Place thread ends under side of

C. Be sure the presser foot is down on

If all else fails, try sewing over paper.

few stitches.

presser foot instead of to the back.

thick fabrics.

7. Machine is .Noisy

A. Clean and oO it. B. If it is a punching sound, change the

8. Bobbin Does Not Wind Properly

needle.

A. Machine is improperly threaded. B. Rubber wheel on bobbin winder is

worn or not making contact.

C. Bobbin winder tension disc is not in

position.

rotary

v^e^N

en\oV

Page 41

Accessones ................................................................................................................. p

..............

3,34

Adjusting for the Fabric .................................................................................................................. “

Adjusting the Stitch...........................................................................................................................P

All Purpose Foot..............................................................................................................................

Applique...........................................................................................................................................P

Basting..............................................................................................................................................2 4

INDEX Page

Blind Hem Foot ..............................................................................................................................

....

Blind Hem Stitch.............................................................................................................................P "

Buttonhole Foot.....................................................................................................................................

...

Buttonholes......................................................................................................................................35-36

Care and Maintenance...................................................................................................................

Changing the Light Bulb.................................................................................................................... ^ ^5

Changing the Needle .........................................................................................................................p’

Cloth Guide........................................................................................................................................23

Cord Sewing ......................................................................................................................................p

Corners

....

..........................................................................................................................................17 27

Darning .p...............................................................................................................................

Decorative Sewing ......................................................................................................... 2i

......

9’, 20 , 26, 28, 32, 33

Elastic, Applying.............................................................................................................................“ ’

Elastic Thread Shirring ....................................................................................................................P 2 q 2 6 28 32,33

Embroidery................................................................................................................................................... ’ ’ “ ’ ’

Embroidery Foot................................................................................................................................P

Etched Seam Guide.........................................................................................................................

Facings, Understitching .................................................................................................................

Feed Dog Control ............................................................................................................................24

Fringe Foot..........................................................................................................................................^ j

Gathering Over a Cord..................................................................................................................

....

Hems, Blind Hem Stitch .................................................................................................................... 1 ”

Hems, Flutter ...................................................................................................................................2Q

Hemstitching ...................................................................................................................................... .

Installation Into Cabinet or Case.....................................................................................................^ ^

Lace...................................................................................................................................................

....

Ladder Stitch ...................................................................................................................................27

Mending ...........................................................................................................................................^ 2

Minor Problems and Their Solutions ..........................................................................................

Monogramming-Freehand .............................................................................................................. 27 28

Multiple Stitch Zigzag....................................................................................................................... ^ ’25

Needle, Changing...............................................................................................................................p’

Needle Position .................................................................................................................................. ^

Needle Selection.................................................................................................................................. „

Needle, Thread, Fabric Chart ......................................................................................................

Oiling ................................................................................................................................................24 ’

Overcast Foot

........................................................................................................................................

Overcasting - Multiple Stitch Zigzag............................................................................................

Overcasting * Zigzag........................................................... 1

Overlock Stitch ...............................................................................................................................

Page 42

Parts Identification.......................................................................................................................... j_2

Patching ...........................................................................................................................................27

Pattern Selector Dial ......................................................................................................................11

Pinning .............................................................................................................................................

...

Pin Tucks..........................................................................................................................................32

Pivoting ............................................................................................................................................16

Presser Foot, Changing ..................................................................................................................14

Presser Foot, Selection ....................................................................................................................¡4

Pressure Control .............................................................................................................................12

Principle Parts.................................................................................................................................. 1_2

Quilting Guide.................................................................................................................................33

Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width

......................................................................................

Removing the Needle Plate........................................................................................................................ 9 35

Reverse Button ..................................................................................................................................lo’

RoUed Hem Foot............................................................................................................................ 34

RoUer Foot........................................................................................................................................34

Satin Stitching....................................................................................................................... 19

Seam Guide........................................................................................................................... 15

Seams

............................................................................

15—17 29

Seams, Curved........................................................................16 ’ ’

Seams, Ending..................................................................................................................................

...

Seams, Knits .............................................................................................................................. Ig

Seams, Nylon Tricot .......................................................................................................................29

Sewing on Buttons ...............................................................................................................! J8

SheB Tucking .................................................................................................................................. 26

Shirring ............................................................................................................................................ 17

Stitch Length Dial ..........................................................................................................................

...

Straight Stretch Stitch.................................................................................................!' ^ ! 31

Straight Stitch Foot....................................................................................................................... 14

Tapering Zigzag ...................................................................................................................'!! ! 19

Tension Adjustments .....................................................................................................................

...

Threading the Machine .................................................................................................................. 5_ 6

Topstitching ...................................................................................................................................... 17 30 31

Turmng Comers .............................................................................................................................

Twin Needle Sewing Ultra Stretch Stitch

............................................................................................................................................3 2’ ’

...

............................................................................................................ . 32

.........

.............................................................................................................

.....

Winding the Bobbin......................................................................................................................... 5

Yam, Sewing with ......................................................................................................................... 3 3

Zigzag Stitch Applications ............................................................................................................

...

g_21

Zipper Foot..................................................................................................................................... 33

Zippers ........................................................................................................................................... 3 3

Page 43

Page 44

SINGER W1213 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

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