SINGER W1213 User Manual

Table of Contents page
1. Features and Parts
Principle Parts.............................................................1-2
Accessories
U. Installation of Machine Head
Portable Case................................................................. 4
Cabinet
..........................................................................
III. Preparing Machine to Sew
Winding the Bobbin...................................................... 5
Lower Threading
Upper Threading........................................................... 6
rv. Choosing the Right Needle ........................................7 — 9
Types of Needles .......................................................... 3
Needle — Thread — Fabric Chart
Changing the Needle..................................................... 9
Changing the Needle Plate
V. Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine. . . iQ-14
Adjusting the Stitch
Stitch Length Dial Reverse Button Stitch Width Lever
Relating Stitch Length to
Stitch Width .......................................................10
Pattern Selector
Needle Position
Adjusting for the Fabric.......................................12—13
Feed Dog Control Pressure Control
Tension Dial ......................................................13
Adjusting the Tension
The Proper Presser Foot ..............................................14
Changing the Foot
The All Purpose Foot
The Straight Stitch Foot......................................14
The Embroidery Foot
The Buttonhole Foot ..........................................14
VI. How to Sew
Pinning ........................................................................15
Placement of Fabric/Starting a Seam....................15
Guiding the Fabric ......................................................15
Etched Seam Guide............................................15
Cloth Guide .......................................................15
Presser Foot as a Guide......................................15
Holding the Fabric ......................................................15
Turning Comers...........................................................16
Curved Seams .............................................................16
Sewing Across Heavy Seams Ending a Seam/Removal of Fabric
VII. Applications of the Straight Stitch
Seams ..........................................................................12
Basting/Topstitching....................................................17
Darning........................................................................17
Elastic Thread Shirring................................................17
VIII. Applications of the Zigzag Stitch
Overcasting..................................................................18
Seaming Knits
Sewing on Buttons ......................................................18
Forming a Thread Shank
Satin Stitching .............................................................19
Tanerins ......................................................................19
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5 — 6
10—11
15—16
10 10 10
11 11
12
18-21
Manual Embroidery Designs Freehand Monogramming
Applique............................................................................20
4
12 13
14 14
14
16 16 17
18 18
Gathering Over a Cord.....................................'................21
Lace Application
Flutter Hem ......................................................................21
DC. Buttonholes
Preparation........................................................................22
Built-in Buttonhole...........................................................22
Tum-around Buttonhole
Corded Buttonhole............................................................24
Stretch Buttonhole............................................................24
X. Applications of the Blind Hem Stitch
Hemming .........................................................................25
Shell Tuck.........................................................................26
Decorative Effects
XI. Applications of the Multiple Stitch Zigzag. . .27-28
Overcasting.......................................................................27
Patching............................................................................27
Mending a Tear/Daming
Elastic Application ..........................................................28
Understitching Facings .................................................. 28
Decorative Effects............................................................28
XII. Applications of the Overlock Stitch .........................29—30
Seams
...........................................................................
Nylon Tricot Seams..........................................................29
Applying Elastic ..............................................................29
Ladder Stitch Hemstitching
Topstitching ................................................................... 30
XIII. Applications of the Straight Stretch
Stitch................................................................................31
Seams ..............................................................................31
Topstitching .....................................................................31
XiV- Applications of tne oiira Siretcn Stucn
Seams
..............................................................................
Elastic Application ..........................................................31
XV. Use of the Accessories
Twin Needle Sewing Effects ...........................................32
Pin Tucks
Decorative Designs ................................................32
Yam and Cord Sewing.....................................................33
Zipper Foot/Zippers/Cording ..........................................33
Quilting Guide
;AA. ..c.iaumoZpcc:;.: ..c.cs .....................................................34
Roller Foot Overcast Foot
Blind Hem Foot................................................................34
Rolled Hem Foot .............................................................34
Fringe Foot.......................................................................34
XVn. Care and Maintenance of Your
Sewing Machine
Changing Needles ...........................................................35
Cleaning...........................................................................35
Procedure for Oiling
Changing the Light Bulb
XVin. Minor Problems and Their Solutions................................37
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page
19 20
21
22—24
23
25—26
26
27
29
30 30
31
31
32—33
32
33
34 34
35—36
35
36
I. Feattires and Parts Principle Parts
Picture Window
pictures the stitches and allows for easy selection.
regulates the amount of tension on the needle thread.
regulates the flow of thread throu^ the needle. It has an open-slot to simplify threading. The take up lever should always be in its highest position when beginning or ending sewing.
Descriptive Tension Dial
Take-Up Lever
opens to the left. Allows easy changing of the light bulb.
helps control the flow of thread through the needle.
Needle Clamp Screw
holds the needle in place. holds presser foot in place.
Diamond Point Feed Dog moves the fabric after each stitch is formed. The diamond points give a gentle feed for delicate fabrics as well as an accurate feed for heavy fabrics.
holds the fabric in place for sewing. Various feet
are given in the accessory box.
slides open for changing the bobbin.
has guide lines on the left and right for greater sewing accuracy.
Face Plate
Check Spring
Thumb Screw
Presser Foot
Slide Plate
Needle Plate
controls the raising and lowering of the presser foot. It has an extra lift for the placement of heavy fabrics.
is located on the back of the presser bar for
convenience.
hold aU types of spools effectively and eliminates over-spin of lightweight spools.
Presser F oot Lever -
Thread Cutter-
Spool Pins and Caps
Pattern Selector selects the stitch shown above the indicator in the
picture window.
Hand Wheel
controls the up and down movement of the needle
bar. Always turn it toward you.
Coupling Wheel
releases the movement of the needle bar in order to wind a bobbin.
Stitch Length Dial
allows for precise adjustment of stitch length from very fine to very long.
Push Button Reverse
allows for easy backtacking to lock thread ends. Stitch Width Lever
allows for precise adjustment of zigzag stitch
width as well as tapering.
Zigzag Width Lever Stops
left lock determines the minimum width stitch, while right lock controls the maximum.
Bobbin Winder
automatically disengages from hand wheel when bobbin is filled to the proper level.
Power Switch
turns on both the motor and light simultaneously.
Allows selection of high or low speed.
Bobbin Winder Tension Disk
controls the tension on the thread as the bobbin is being wound.
Needle Position Dial
is variable and may be set in any position from the left to the right.
ecu iyog ^oiUiO.
adjusts the height of the feed dog for special sewing applications.
Pressure Control
controls the amount of pressure on the fabric. It is numbered to make adjustment easier. Normal pressure is # 5.
Foot Holder
holds the foot. It is easy to exchange the sole.
Accessories
Your new White Rotary sewing machine comes equipped with the following set of accessories to make your sewing
easier.
Four Metal Bobbins
The bobbins have holes in
one side for convenient bobb in placement.
Needles
light ball point needles, two each of sizes 11, 14 and 16 are provided. Two twin need
les are also included.
TSvo Felt Washers and Spool Caps
Place felt washers on spool pins under the spools and place caps over the spools tightly for best stitching re sults.
(jilting Guide
Helps make parallel rows of
stitching.
Buttonhole Foot
Is adjustable and regulates proper buttonhole length every time.
Button Sewing Foot
To hold button in place for stitching.
Cording and Zipper Foot
For stitching very close to the edge of a cord or zipper.
Screw Drivers
Small one for use on bobbin tension. Large one for use on thumb screw, needle clamp screw, etc.
Qoth Guide with Screw
Aids in creating straight seams.
AU Purpose Foot & Zigzag
Needle Plate
For all utility sewing.
Straight Stitch Foot and
Straight Needle Plate
For straight stitching on sheer or , very lightweight materials where extra control
is needed.
Embroidery Foot
Has a wide groove on the bottom which allows the foot to pass over dense stitches, such as satin stitches or other
decorative stitches. Do not
use this foot for normal
sewing of lightweight fabrics.
O
1** A
111
b=c
X
* ^
Tubed Oiler
For use in oiling the machine.
See page 34.
Seam Ripper
For cutting the openings in buttonholes and for removing stitches.
Bobbin Extractor
For easy removal of bobbin from the bobbin case.
Lint Brush
For removing all lint.
n. Installation of Machine Head
Portable Case
Lay the sewing machine unit face down on a table. On the underside of the back of the sewing machine are two clamping screws (A). These enter the head hinge holes (B). Release
the clamping screws.
On the base of the portable case are two head hinges (C). Lower the sewing machine onto the base, fitting the hinges (C) into the holes
(B). Tighten the clamping screws securely with a screw driver. Place machine in an upright sewing position. Machine will snap
under portable case clamp securing it in correct position.
Draw the two electrical leads through the slot
in the base. Plug cord labeled motor into the
receptacle marked motor on the block attach ed to the outer section of the base. Insert the
other cord into the receptacle marked light. Insert plug into a wall outlet. (110-115 volts)
Cabinet
Lay the sewing machine unit face down on a table. On the underside of the back of the sewing machine are two clamping screws (A). These enter the head hinge holes (B). Release the clamping screws.
On the cabinet are two head hinges (C). Tilt them up and back as far as they will go. (Hint: Stretch a rubber band across the two hinges to help hold them upright while mounting the sewing machine unit.)
Carefully lower sewing machine onto the head hinges, making sure to insert the hinges
as far into the hinge holes as they will go.
With the sewing machine in its tilted position,
tighten both clamping screws securely with a screw driver.
Plug the electrical leads into the sockets located inside the cabinet. Plug the cord labeled motor into the receptacle marked
motor on the block attached to the inside of the cabinet. Insert the other cord into the receptacle marked light. Insert plug into a wall outlet. (110-115 volts)
NOTE: Where three wire grounding is provided connect the plug from the sewing machine to the connection leading from the
control. One prong is larger than the other three, eliminating the possibility of error. Insert plug into wall outlet. (110-115 volts)
Ш. Preparing Machine to Sew
Winding the Bobbin Disengage the hand wheel by holding it
tightly with your left hand and turning the
coupling wheel toward you with your right hand. (Fig.21) Place spool on spool pin, leaving about one foot of thread free, then
place spool cap over spool as shown (Fig. 22) until it holds the spool in place. Lead thread
as illustrated. (Fig. 23) Run the end of the thread through the single hole on one side of
the bobbin, and place bobbin on spindle of
bobbin winder with the four holes of the
bobbin facing to the right. Turn the bobbin
until it clicks into place.
Lift bobbin winder until it makes contact
with the hand wheel. Hold thread end securely and run machine slowly. Bobbin will stop turning when filled. Always break off loose thread end used to start the winding. Tighten the coupling wheel by turning it away from you as you hold the hand wheel in
21
...........
23
place. The needle should now move when you turn the hand wheel.
Note: If the bobbin winds unevenly, adjust
bobbin winding tension disc to the right or
left by loosening the screw and sliding it. When disc is in proper position, tighten screw. (Fig.24)
Lower Tlireading
Drop the bobbin, with four holes on top, into the hook and be sure the bobbin rotates counter clockwise. Draw the thread through the slot and toward the left into the clearance between hook and spring. (Fig. 25) Put the thread through the notch at the end of the spring and leave the thread about three or four inches long. Close the slide plate allowing the thread to emerge through the notch above the window. Thread should cross
from the left across the top of the bobbin.
Note: For satin stitching, drop the feed dogs
to down and slip the thread into the clip at the back of the hook. (Fig.26)
26
Upper Threading
1. Turn hand wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever to its highest position. Presser foot should be in the raised position.
2. Lead thread from the spool as illustrated, (Fig. 22) being sure to place the spool cap so that it holds the spool securely. Draw the thread between the tension discs and
around toward the right until it emerges under the finger like projection. Bring the thread through the succeeding points as illustrated. Thread the needle from front to
back and leave the thread about three or
four inches long. (Fig. 27)
3. Hold upper thread down on slide plate and turn hand wheel toward you one complete
revolution. Pull the loop which has been formed through to the upper surface. (Fig.
28)
Place both thread ends under the presser foot and draw them toward either the right or left leaving both threads about four
inches long. (Fig.29)
27
r
28
29
rv. Choosing the Right Needle
Types of Needles
The correct selection of needle to suit the thread and fabric being sewn gives the best stitching results. Fine fabrics should be sewn with fine needles, heavier fabrics with heavier needles. For best results, sewing machine
needles should be replaced when they become even slightly dull or bent or at the completion of every other garment.
A regular needle is suggested for use with woven fabrics. Needles, style 15x1, (Euro
pean equivalent System 705) are used on the majority of household sewing machines. They range in sizes from 8 to 20 with the lower number indicating the finer needle. The most commonly used sizes are 11 and 14.
A ball point needle is recommended for use
with tricots, jerseys, lingerie and power nets. Unlike sharp, pointed needles, which pierce fibers of knit fabrics, destroying elasticity, the
ball point sUps between fibers, preventing
damage to fabric and skipped stitches. These are available in fine, medium, and heavy ball points.
A wedge point needle is recommended for use
with leather and leather-look vinyls. A wedge
cutting point pierces leather more easily than
ordinary sewing machine needles, resulting in
more satisfactory stitching.
An all purpose needle is designed to handle knits as well as woven fabrics. It eliminates
skipped stitches and the slight ball will not
damage delicate fabrics. This is the needle
provided with your sewing machine and will
be used for most of your sewing. A larger ball
point may still be necessary for certain knits,
such as bathing suit fabric or power net.
Needle
Stitdiing
Guide
The correct selection of needle and thread to suit the fabric will result in more satisfactory stitching. Fine fabrics should be stitched with fine needles, fine thread and short stitches.
For best results on heavier fabrics, use coarser needles,
heavier threads and longer stitches. Replace the
machine needle when it becomes even slightly dull or bent.
Consult
this chan whi'iiever
a difjereiit /17«'
of fai)rw
is lo he stili heil.
Thread
and needle .sizes
for various
kinds and weights
of fabrics.
KNITS
WOVEN
LEATHER
DECORATIVE
STITCHING
type of fabric
LIGHT WEIGHT
Tricot, Power Net
MEDIUM WEIGHT
Jersey, Double Knit, Power Net
HEAVY WEIGHT
Double Knit, Power Net
FAKE FURS ^VELOURS
VERY SHEER
Lace, Net, Chiffon, Voile
SHEER
Lawn, Taffeta, Blouse Crepe, Organdy
DRESS WEIGHT
Crepe, Wool, Brocade, Velvet
MEDIUM
Wool, Silk, Linen, Pique, Faille. Velveteen, Terrycloth
HEAVY
Denim, Duck, Sailcloth
EXTRA HEAVY
Canvas, Upholstery, Awning
VINYLS-ITLMS
LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT
Leathers & Suedes
HEAVY LEATHER
MACHINE EMBROIDERY
TOP STITCHING
METALLIC EMBROIDERY
mchine i
U.S. Size
European
15x1
9
9-10
11-14 80-90
14-16
9-11
11 80
16
19
14-16
16-18
9-11
16-18 100-110
70-80
90-100
9 70
9
14 90
90-100
100-110 Leather (Wedge)
11 80
705
70
70
70-80
100
120
60-80
cedles
Point Style
Light Ball
Light Ball to
Medium Ball
Medium Ball to
Heavy Ball
Ball or Sharp
Sharp
Sharp
Sharp
Sharp
Sharp
Sharp
Leather (Wedge)
Leather (Wedge)
approxiuiate
straight stitches
per inch
20
12
10-14
10
16-18 10
14-16
12
12
10
8
10
8
6-8 3
hand
needles
10
9
4-5
4-5
10
9
7-8
6-7
3 4
7-8 50
3-4
ihrcac
i
Mercerized
Cotton
60
50
50
Heavy Duty 30
60
60
50
50
Heavy Duty
Heavy Duty 30 YES
50
Heavy Duty
Cotton Embr<
Silk Buttonhole Twist Size D
Metallic Thread
European
Cotton
50-70
50-70
>idery Thread Size 50-70
Polyester
NO
30 YES
30
70
30 NO
30 NO
30 YES
30
30 YES NO
30
YES
YES
NO
NO
YES
YES NO
Siìk
Nylon
A-Silk
Nylon A-Silk
Nylon
A Silk Nylon
NO
A-Silk Nylon
A-Sìlk Nylon
A-Silk
A-Silk
NO
NO
NO
attachments
Roller Foot
Roller Foot
Roller Foot
Roller Foot
Roller Foot
Roller Foot
Roller Foot
Qianging the Needle
Always change the needle after every other garment especially when sewing on polyester and nylon fabrics which dull needles much faster. When needles are dull or bent, they damage both your fabric and the machine. A general rule when replacing sewing machine needles is that the flat side of the needle is placed to the back of the machine, when the bobbin is put in from the front. If the needle is inserted incorrectly, the stitches will not form.
To change the needle
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.
2. Loosen needle clamp screw to remove the needle. (Fig.31)
3. Place needle (flat side to the back and long groove toward you) (Fig.31) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far as it will go, tighten clamp screw.
4. After changing the needle, make one complete revolution of the hand wheel by hand to be sure the needle is clearing
the needle plate.
31
32
Changing the Needle Plate
To change the needle plate, simply slide the cover plate toward you. Remove the needle and the presser foot. Remove the two screws holding the needle plate in place, lift the needle plate. Replace the needle plate.
The needle plate is removed for cleaning the lint which may pile up between the needle plate and the feed dop. The straight stitch needle plate is used for sewing very fine or soft materials. The zigzag needle plate can be
used for almost all of the normal sewing.
V. Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine
Adjusting the Stitch
33
35
Reverse Button
1 2 3 4 5
34
Stop Lever
Pattern - M Length - 0-4 Width - 0
Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5
Foot - All Purpose
Pattern — M
Length - 2
Width - 0-5
Needle Position - M
Feed Dog - High Pt-essiire - 5
Foot - All Purpose
Stop
Stitch Length Dial
This dial (Fig.33) controls the forward
feeding of the fabric. At 0, the fabric does not feed at all. As the numbers increase so does the length of the stitch. Turn the blue
dial so that the desired number is above the blue line on the white button.
Reverse Button The white button in the middle of the stitch
length dial (Fig.33) will cause the feed dog
to feed the fabric backwards. This button may be used at the beginning and end of
sewing to lock the threads.
To backstitch, simply push the button in and hold for the desired number of stitches.
It is advisable to tie thread ends instead of backstitching on soft sheer fabrics to avoid
puckering.
Stitch Width Lever This lever (Fig.34) controls the swing of the
needle from left to right for various width of stitches. At 0 the needle does not swing,
therefore a straight line of sewing results no matter which pattern is selected.
At 1, the needle takes a narrow swing resulting in a narrow column of stitching. At
5, the needle takes a large swing resulting in a’wide column of stitches. (Fig.35)
Slide the blue lever to the desired number then push in the left hand stop (Fig. 34)
and slide it over to the blue lever. The stop will hold the lever in place.
36
Pattern - M Length - 0-4 Width - 5
Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5
Foot - All Purpose
Relating Stitch Length to Suich Width When the width lever is engaged at one
particular width (such as 5), the stitch length dial will now control how close those stitches come together. At length 0, the fabric does not move, resulting in a ball of stitches
formed one on top of the other, as is used in button sewing. At about length 14, the
feed pulls the fabric through slowly, resulting in a dense column of stitches called a satin stitch. At length 4, a very long open zigzag
results. (Fig.36)
10
Pattern Selector
This dial (Fig. 37) selects the stitch pattern to be made according to the pictures shown at the blue indicator. Turn the silver selector dial to the right and the picture of the stitch
to be formed will be shown in the top position. The stitches shown are as follows:
1. M stands for manual position which
gives the standard straight stitch when the width is at 0 and the standard zigzag when the width is engaged.
2. Black boxes - indicate buttonhole steps
for four step buttonholes to be explain ed on page 22.
3. Blindhem ( $ ) - stitches forward then a zigzag bite to the left for use in hemming, shell tucking, and other ap plications. See page 25. Width 0 will give a straight stitch, all other widths
will give the blind hem stitch.
4. Multiple stitch zigzag ( iS ) - takes three
stitches from side to side for use in overcasting, applying elastics and mend ing as shown on pages 27. Width 0 will
give a straight stitch, width 5 is the best choice for use of the multiple stitch
zigzag. _
5. Overlock stitch ( e ) - takes one stitch to the left, one stitch backwards and then one stitch to the right to form a straight seam and overcast all in one operation.
This is excellent on both knits and wovens for Vi inch seams on width 5, and for the straight stretch stitch at width 0. See page 29. Straight stretch
stitch is discussed on page 31.
6. Ultra stretch stitch { } - takes stitches
then back on a diagonal. This stitch has the greatest strength and elasticity and is excellent for loose or bulky knits, such as sweater knits, bathing suit, and cotton knits. Use it at width 5 for
completed V* inch seams on knits. This stitch is never used on width 0. See page
31.
Pattern -
Length - 2
Width - 5
Needle Position - M
Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5 Foot - All Purpose
37
38
M
M
O' U O'
M
Needle Position This dial controls the location of the needle
in relation to the presser foot. (Fig. 38) Never move the needle position dial while
the needle is in the fabric because it will bend or break the needle.
The needle may be used in any position
between the left and right even though only three positions are labeled. L -Left M -
Middle R - Right The etched guide lines on the needle plate
are measured from the needle in the middle position.
Pattern - M
Length - 2
Width - 0-2
Needle Position - L, M, R
Feed Dog - High Prcbiuic - D Foot - All Purpose
When straight stitching with the all purpose
foot, the needle may be moved to get closer to an edge or to make guiding of the fabric more convenient, as in topstitching. The needle can also be moved in relation to the zipper foot in order to take full advantage
of the feed dog.
Caution: When using the straight stitch foot
use the M position of the needle only.
39
40
Pattern - M
Length - 2
Width - 5
Feed Dog -
Pressure - 5
Foot - All Purpose
Adjusting for the Fabric Feed Dog Control
This lever (Fig. 39) will raise or lower the feed dog as indicated. Since the feed dog carries the fabric through the machine, this lever
allows the feed to be regulated for various
materials and types of sewing.
High: For the greatest height of the feed dog
and best grip on the fabric. This is the position used for most sewing.
Low: For less height of the feed dog and
more gentle hold on the fabric. This position is used for sewing delicate fabrics.
Down: In this position, the feed dog is
completely below the needle plate surface and therefore does not move the fabric at all.
Length - 2 Width - 0 Needle Position - .M Feed Dog - High
Pressure -
Foot - All Purpose
Pressure Control
This control (Fig. 40) regulates how heavily the presser foot rests upon the fabric. It is numbered from 0-5 with .stops at the half-way points as well. The higher the number the heavier the pressure. The lower numbers give lighter pressure. Zero gives no pressure.
Lighter weight fabrics need more pressure for
better hold against the feed, whereas heavier,
bulkier fabrics require less pressure to eliminate pushing on the top layer of fabric.
Normal pressure is 5.
12
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