SINGER W1099 User Manual

1099,1088
WHITE SEWING MACHINE
Record in space provided below the Serial No. and Model No. of this appliance. The Serial No. is located Rear of arm. The Model No. is located Rear of arm. Serial No. Model No. 1077 Retain these numbers for future reference.
_____________________________
CONTENTS
1. NAMES OF PARTS........................................................................
2. ACCESSORIES...............................................................................
3. BEFORE SEWING
4. STRAIGHT SEWING
6. ZIGZAG SEWING
6. OVERCASTING
7. MAKING BUTTONHOLES
8. SEWING ON BUTTONS
9. BLIND HEM STITCH
10. MENDING..........................................................................................
11. SHELL STITCHING
12. APPLIQUE WORK
13. EMBROIDERY
15. TROUBLE CHART...........................................................................
Detaching Extension Table Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord
Changing Foot........................................................................
Changing Needle Bobbin Winding
Inserting Bobbin
Adjusting Lower Thread.....................................................
Drop Feed Lever....................................................................
Threading Upper Thread.....................................................
Drawing Up Lower Thread.................................................
Fabric,Thread and Needle Table....................................
Pattern Selection Dial Stitch Length Dial Double Presser Foot Lifter
Adjusting Thread Tension.......................
Zigzag Width Control
Thread Tension for Zigzag Stitch
Determine Length
Determine Width..............................................
Cutting Buttonholes............................................................
Corded Buttonholes
Elastic Blind Hem Stitch
Patching...................................................................................
Mending a Rip........................................................................
MAINTENANCE
Cleaning
Oiling
Changing Light Bulb...........................................................
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1
3 4 4
5
6
7
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8
11
1 2
12
13 1 4 15 16
16
16
17 1 8
19
1 9
1 9
20
21 21 21
23 23 24 25 26
27 27 27 28
29
30 31 31 32 33
34

1. NAMES OF PARTS

1 Thread guide for bobbin winding 2 Take-up (ever 3 Upper thread tension dial 4 Face cover
5 Thread guide for upper threading 6 Presser foot thumb screw 7 Presser foot 8 Drop feed lever
9 Shuttle cover
10 Spool pins (retractable) 11 Pattern selection dial 12 Reverse sewing lever 1 3 Zigzag width control 14 Stitch length dial
1 5 Free arm
16 Bobbin winding spindle 1 7 Bobbin winding stop 1 8 Handwheel
1 9 Stop motion knob 20 Power supply switch 21 Socket 22 Thread guide for upper threading
23 Handle 24 Presser foot lifter 25 Thread cutter 26 Needle plate 27 Feed dog
2. ACCESSORIES

3. BEFORE SEWING

Machine is stored in flat-bed style which makes your work easier in ordinary sewing.

Detaching Extension Table

Slide it off and the machine
used as a free-arm model.
Free-arm is convenient to sew or embroider; trousers, sleeves, cuffs of T-shirts, blouses, etc.
Do vice-versa of above steps to attach extension table,
To open lid of accessory box, push it open, as illustrated.
IS

Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord

Connect foot controller and power cord ■'[; '?.)
Before plugging in your machine, be sure that voltage is same as that of your machine, (written on a plate at back of machine)
^Specifications vary from country
to country.
Switch on power to put on machine and turn on sewing light.
Always switch off or unplug machine when not in use.
The more you press foot controller,
the faster the machine runs.
Changing Foot
Raise presser foot lifter CO.
Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you ¿j
Remove foot by loosening screw with screwdriver.
Replace new foot and tighten
screw.
Changing Needle
Set needJe in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you.
Loosen needle clamp screw and take out needie.
With flat face away from you, insert a new needle into groove of needle bar
Push needie until it reaches stopper (3) and tighten needle
clamp screw firmly.
Always use a straight needle with a sharp point.
Using defective or worn needles not only causes stitch skipping, breakage of needles or snapping
of thread; it also can damage
nook and needle plate.
Proper needle
straight shaft
sharp point
Cl—I
Js, CE
___
!

Bobbin Winding

Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you.
Open shuttle cover.
Open latch of bobbin case and
take it out.
8 -
Close latch of bobbin case and bobbin comes out easily.
Push back to fold handle. Pull out spool pin.
Put a spool on spool pin.
Draw thread from spool pin through thread guide and pre tension device, following numb ers
CD
and
Wind thread clockwise around bobbin several times. Push bobbin on to spindle.
Holding handwheel with your left hand disengage handwheel by unscrewing stop motion knob.
-9-
Push bobbin 10 right and press
down foot controller.
Machine stops automatically
when winding is full.
Push bobbin to left.
Take off bobbin from spindle and cut thread.
Retighten stop motion knob.
10-
If bobbin is wound unevenly as shown, open face cover and loosen set'Screw of the guide for bobbin winding, by using screw driver and adjust height.

Inserting Bobbin

Place bobbin in its case with thread running in direction of arrow.
Guide thread into slot d) of
bobbin case.
Pulling thread to left, bring it
under tension spring then to delivery eye (b).
-11-
Adjusting Lower Tension
To test bobbin tension, hang and
shake bobbin case as shown.
At proper tension bobbin case wi!l gradually drop a small
amount-
To adjust tension, turn adjusting
screw with small screwdriver.
Raise needle in the highest position.
Leave end of thread of about 10
cm (4") from bobbin case. Take hold of latch and push bobbin case into hook. Release latch when bobbin case is fully inserted.
-12-

Drop Feed Lever

The lever is on right side of hook.
To lower feed dog, move lever down to AA position. This position is for button sewing, darning and embroidery.
For normal sewing, move lever
tip to 4Aposition.

Threading Upper Thread

Raise presser foot lifter. Raise take-up lever to the highest position by turning handwheel towards you.
Thread following numbers©-®.
Pass thread through guide
Lead thread either side of tension
disc (2).
Hook it to guide CD from down to
upwards.
Thread take-up lever (D.
Pass thread to guide d) from right
to left, and guide (S) (left one)
then needle eye (J).
Leave end of thread of about 15
cm (6").
13-
Drawing Up Lower Thread
Hoid end of upper thread with left hand.
Turn handwheel slowly towards you until needle moves down and up again.
Pull upper thread slowly and
lower thread will be brought up in a loop.
14
Pull out both threads to about 1 5 cm {6") and place them together under presser foot on left.
Fabric,Thread and Needle Table
THREAD
FABRIC
EuropeanMercerized
Cotton Cotton
veav SHEER; Lace,
Voife, Chiffon, Net SHEER; Blouse Crepe,
Lewn, Organiiy, Taffeta
LIGHT-WEIGHT; Crepe,
Wool. Brocade, Velvet
MEDiUNt; Wool, Silk.
Linen, Veivefierr, Pi<fue.
Faiiie, Terrycloth
HEAVY; Denim, Duck.
Sailcloth EXTRA HEAVY;
Upholsiety, Canvas,
Awning
70
50-70
30 50 Silk
30 50
30 30
¡KNlTSj UGHT-WEIGHT; Tricot
Power nei MEDIUM-WEIGHT;
Jersey, Duuble Kirit, Power Net
HEAVY-WEIGHT; Double
knit, Power Net
FAKE-FURS, VELOURS
50-70
30 50
30
30
[LcATH£H|
VINYLS FILMS
LiGHT-TO-MEDlUM­WEtGHT
HEAVY LEATHER
30 50 30
Heavy
30
tOECORATWE TOUCHES! TOP STfTCHSNG
SUk twist
MACHINE EMBflOfDERYSiie 50-70
60 60
Heavy
Duty Heavy
Duty
60
50
Heavy
Duty
50
Duty
Cotton
Cpvered
Polyester.
SUk, Nylon
Silk Nylon
Silk Nylon
European
705
65-70 9 S5-70 9 75-80
Silk 30-90
C.C.Poty. C.C.Poly.
Silk
Nylon
Silk
Nylofi
C.C.Poiy.
Silk
Nylon
C.C.Poty, C.C.Poiy.
C.C.Poiy. C.C.Poiy,
100 18
120
70
70-80 9-10 to Medium
30-90 11-14to Heavy
90-100
90
ao-iQO 14-16
C.C.Poiy.100-110
100-110
65-80
needle
U.S.Size
16x1
Point Style
Regular
11 "
11-1A
"
19
Light
9
Ball
Light
Ball
Ball
14-16
Ball or Sharp
14 Wedge
SNeSge
16-18
Wedge
16-58 Regular
9-11 Hegular
REMARKS
Loosen up per tension one or two points
-15-
4. STRAtGHT SEWING
Set machine as shown.

Pattern Selection Dial

Turn diai to choose pattern.
Dial can be turned either to right
or to left.
W! Straight & Zigzag Stitch
1 Blind Hem Stitch
2 Elastic Biind Hem Stitch 3 Multiple Zigzag
D
Buttonhole
n.b. Always make Sure needle is in the highest position when operating dial.
'16-

Stitch Length Dial

Set dial at indicating point (a) according to stitch size required.
For a longer stitch, turn dial in counter-clockwise For a shorter
stitch, turn it in clockwise.
For normal sewing it is set between 2 and 3.
Place fabric under foot about 1 cm (0,4") inside the edge. Lower presser foot lifter.

Ooubls Pfssssr Foot Liftsr

(n order to obtain wider gap when using very thick materials, firmly push presser foot lifter up as far as it will go.
To reinforce seam, sew back
wards to the edge of fabric by pushing down reverse sewing lever-
Release lever and commence forward sewing guiding fabric by
hand as it is fed.
Never pull material.
-17-
Sew reverse stitches for rein forcement at end of seam. Draw fabric to left when sewing ; is finished.
Cut threads with thread cutter behind presser bar.
__18-

Adjusting Thread Tension

Test stitch performance on a
scrap of material you are going to use. With correct tension {(a)), upper and lower threads tension is equal and strong enough to lock both threads in center.
If upper tension is too tight
(loose), upper (lower) thread lies straight along upper (lower), surface of fabric (®.©). Correct by turning tension dial.
5. ZIGZAG SEWING
Set machine as shown.
To prevent seam ends unravell ing, set machine for straight stitch and sew in reverse at beginning and ending of seam.

Zigzag Width Control

Set control at required number. Larger the number, wider, the stitch. Set it at 0 for straight sewing.
Make sure needle is in upper
position when you set control.
TT^ 5 5
o -1 < a > 3 - ^ • B
i i i i -e

Thread Tension for Zigzag Stitch

Better-looking zigzag stitching
requires less upper tension than straight stitching. Loosen upper tension slightly.
19-
back side
right side

6- OVERCASTING

For iight weight material:
Set msciilne as shown.
Sew carefuiiy so that a'i stitches on right side are flush with edge of fabttc.
For thick arid elastic material:
Set machine as shown,
Sg’w in the same way above.

7. MAKING BUTTONHOLES

Set machine as shown.

Determine Length

Measure diameter and thickness
of button and add 0.3cm (1/8") for bar tacks.
Mark buttonhole size on materia!.

Determine Width

Determine width according to
diameter of button, its thickness, and kind of material.
Attach buttonhole foot. Completely push back sliding part
@ of buttonhole foot.
Place material under foot so that marking of buttonhole passes through center of foot and arrow
CB;' of foot indicates beginning line
of marking.
marking
-21
Bar tacking: S
dial to 1 (,i stitches.
Left side: Ch; (sK)- Sew lefi
back until it t'
Remember the shows so that to mark en buttonholes.
Bar tacking: Cl"
(TS^) and sew
Right side: Cha iCI'*) and sew f
catches first ba
Quick finish: unstitching, set 0 and proceed f(

Cutting Buttonholes

Stick a needie through bar tacks to prevent over-cutting.
Cut buttonhole along center with buttonhole cutter,

Corded Buttonholes

For stretch fabrics such as knits, a corded buttonhole is effective to keep finished buttonhole in shape.
Hook filler cord on top spur and lead ends of cord under foot, pull taut, and hook them to bottom
notches as shown.
Proceed with stitching as for
regular buttonholes.
..Jir
iiiiiliil::
IKSif'
When buttonhole is completed,
pul! filler cord ends so that loop on the other end disappears into
buttonhole stitching. Thread ends of cord to reverse side and tie, or cut both ends of cord.
23-

8. SEWING ON BUTTONS

Set machine as shown.
Position a button and materia! under foot. When needle comes to left side of stitch, lower foot.
Raise needle and adjust zigzag
width so that needle comes to right hole of button.
Run machine at medium speed and sew 5-6 zigzag stitches.
-24-
Stop machine when needle is in upper position.
(D Set zigzag width control to 0
and sew 3-4 stitches to prevent unstitching.
OR
(b) Draw out work and cut off
threads.
Draw thread ends through to
wrong side and tie a knot.

9. BLIND HEM STITCH

Set machine as shown.
Fold material as shown and place it under foot.
For a neater finish, it is preferable
to baste or iron hem beforehand.
3~Bmm(0.2")—^
25-
Sew carefully, guiding fold against guide so that straight stitches are made on hem edge, and slanting stitches pierce only one or two threads of fold.
right side wrong side
(D Correct seam.
(E) Needle is catching edge of fold
too much.
(c) Needle is not catching edge of
fold at all.

Elastic Blind Hem Stitch

For elastic materials, set machine as shown snd sow In tho sams
way as for norma! blind hem stitch.

10. MENDING Patching

Set machine as shown.
Place the patch over the worn part. Sew along the edge of the patch on the right side. Trim away the worn part dose to the seam on back side.

Mending a Rip

Set machine in the same way as for patching.
Sew the edges of tear together first. Then sew two more seams on either side.
A piece of gauze can be placed underneath to reinforce the rip.
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n. SHELL STITCHING
Silk, nyion organdy or similar sheer fabrics are suitable.
Set machine as shown.
Fold edge of material. With folded edge to left, place if under pressor foot.
Pull thread ends towards back when starting sewing.
-28-
Make sure needle misses raw
edge of fold when it moves side
ways.

12. APPLIQUE WORK

Set machine as shown,
Draw design on material to be used as an applique and cut it out. Place cut-out on base material and baste it.
Sew around outline with zigzag
stitch adjusting stitch length and width according to shape and size of cut-out and type of base
material.
To change direction at corners, or to sew very small circles, stop machine, positioning needle just away from edge of cut-out, lift presser foot and turn material. Lower presser foot and continue sewing.
Sew a few stitches at end with zigzag width at 0. This is to prevent unstitching.
29-
(
*
\.
V
5
• f
V
Nee dle Thr ead
No. 9
120 -100
No. 1 1 100 -80
No. 14 60- 50

13. EMBROIDERY

Set machine as shown.
Remove foot, and holder screw.
To avoid tower thread being
pulled up, reduce upper thread
tension.
For good embroidery, it is important to use correct needles and thread.
Use thin embroidery silk for upper thread and a thinner silk of same kind and color for lower thread. Trace your design on material and center it in embroidery hoop. Make sure material is taut.
Pull out lower thread by turning hand wheel towards you while holding upper thread lightly.
Lower presser foot lifter.
Hold both threads and start sewing along outline of design with satin stitch.
Continue sewing guiding hoop by hand.
To finish filling, sew several stitches with zigzag width at 0.
Lay typewriting paperunderneath when embroidering sheer fabric.

14. MAINTENANCE

Your machine requires regular
cleaning and oiling for satis
factory sewing performance. A machine which is used for a few hours a day needs to be cleaned and oiled once a month,

Uleaning

Remove foot and needle. Remove needle plate.
Brush off ail dust and lint on feed
dog with cleaning brush.
Turn latches outwards.
Remove hook race cover. Remove hook. Clean hook race with a cleaning brush and a soft cloth.
-31 -

Oiling

Use oil manufactured specially
for sewing machine use. Other
oils will eventually cause mechanism to jam.
Apply one drop of oil to part of hook where friction occurs.
Open face cover and apply oil in
the same way.
Be careful not to apply too much oil or it may stain your material
and cause some sewing difficulty.
After oiling, run machine for 1-2
minutes to allow oil to penetrate
to every part.
Remove top cover by loosening
screws @ and ® with large screwdriver.
i\pply one drop of oil to lubricating points indicated by arrows.

15. TROUBLE CHART

PROBLEM
Breaking lower Thread not wound evenly on the bobbin
thread or not drawn up correctly
Lower thread tension too tight P.12 Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside
the tension spring
Skipping stitches Needle not fully inserted
Needle bent Size or type of needle and thread not
suitable for the material Incorrect upper threading Too much oil on the hook
irregular stitches Incorrect size of needle for the material
Upper thread tension too loose P.18 Incorrect lower tension P.12
The material not Pattern selection dial not set correctly P.16 fed correctly
Incorrect feed dog height Lint stuck on the feed dog
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTION
P.10, P.14
Remove lint and fluff with a cleaning brush
P. 7 P. 7
P.15
P.13 P.32
P.15
P.12 P.31
-33 -
PROBLEM
PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
The material Upper or lower thread tension too tight puckers
Stitch too long for material
P.12,P.18
Thread too thick
Breaking needle
Incorrect threading of upper or lower thread
Needle not correctly inserted
P.13, P.11
Needle bent
Needle clamp screw too loose
Upper thread tension too tight Needle too fine for the material
Dials and levers have been changed while the needle was down in the material
^ if trouble is stil! apparent in the machine, please consult your nearest
P.16, P.19
dealer.
Do not try to correct fault by yourself.
For adjusting the tension of any belts, please do not try to adjust it by
yourself but contact your nearest dealer.
Changing Light Bulb
P.I6
P.15
p y
P. 7
P. 7 P.18 P.15
Unplug the machine.
Open face cover as shown.
Remove bulb by unscrewing it in counterclockwise. Install a new bulb by screwing it in clockwise.
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