SINGER 431 User Manual

431

Convertible

Instructions for using

SINGER

Form 30-064 G / 1264 engl. Printed in Western Germany

* A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY

SLANT-O-MATIC

Convertible

.. the most versatile sewing machine ever built!

THE CONVERTIBLE 431

. . . represents the ultimate in sewing machine performance. With the
purchase of the new SLANT-O-MATIC, you can take pride in owning

the finest sewing machine ever built. You'll marvel at its almost unbe
lievable ease of operation . . . the remarkable services it performs.
You'll delight in its perfect, beautiful stitching.

• World's first convertible with double-easy threading. Has built-in

threading chart, handy "drop-in" bobbin in front of needle!

• World's first convertible with slant needle and gear drive. Seeing
is easier, sewing smoothest ever. No slipping or stalling.

• World's first convertible with built-in eye-level stitch chart . . .
lets you "tune" the knob for whatever fancy stitch you want.

Add to these major developments in sewing machine design the
following ADVANCED features, and you have a machine far ahead
in design, unequalled in performance.

Copyright 1964 by The Singer Manufacturing Company

OTHER OUTSTANDING FEATURES ARE:

• CYLINDER BED simplifies sewing of articles of
a curved or cylindrical nature — converts to
flat bed with the push of a button.

• PERFECT STITCHING . . . straight and zigzag.

• NEEDLE CLAMP holds one or two regular
needles — same or different sizes for exciting
two needle stitching.

• AUTOMATIC THREAD CONTROL ensures a
smooth flow of thread from spool to needle for
uniform stitch setting.

• HINGED FACE PLATE, houses threading chart
and swings open for easy access to oiling points.

• BUILT-IN MOTOR with worm wheel drive, no

belts required, excellent penetrating power
when sewing heaviest materials without manual
assistance. ,

• BUILT-IN LIGHT focused on sewing area.

• ALL MECHANISM completely enclosed.

• SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT.

• FLEXIBLE SEAM GUIDE.

• CLIP-ON TYPE calibrated throat plate . . . easy
to remove and replace.

SUPERFINE CONTROL of stitch length ensures # COMPARTMENT for attachments and accesso­perfect satin stitching. ries built into detachable cloth plate.

• HINGED BED EXTENSION for increased work
area.

SINGER SERVICE

Wherever you go you will find expert, dependable SINGER* Service
close at hand. SINGER is interested in helping you keep your SINGER
Sewing Machine in top running condition. That is why you should
always call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE if your machine ever
requires adjustment or repair. Only from your SINGER SEWING
CENTRE can you obtain the services of a trained SINGER repair man
and warranted SINGER* parts.

EVERYTHING FOR THE WOMAN WHO SEWS

The answer to your sewipg needs is at your SINGER SEWING
CENTRE. There you will find a wide choice of sewing aids, notions,
sewing information and services. Look for the famous red "S" and
SINGER trademarks on your SINGER SEWING CENTRE and the ever
ready SINGER van. See phone book under SINGER SEWING

MACHINE CO. for address nearest you.

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE DETACHABLE CLOTH PLATE

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To detach cloth plate from machine, press button on machine bed and withdraw plate.

Replace cloth plate in same manner, locating two pins in plate with corresponding holes in machine

bed. Push cloth plate to right until it snaps in locked position.

See pages 81 to 86 for applications of cylinder bed feature.

NEEDLE AND THREAD SELECTION

The selection of thread should be based on the fabric to be stitched. The thread should blend with

the fabric in colour, fibre and size.

Silk and wool fabrics should be stitched with silk thread; cotton fabrics should be stitched with cotton
or cotton mercerised thread, etc. The thread must be of a size that will imbed itself into the texture of the
fabric. Thread that is too heavy for the fabric will remain on the surface and become weakened by
friction and abrasion.

The selection of the needle should be based on both the fabric and thread being used. The eye of the
needle must be large enough for the thread to pass freely through it. The blade of the needle must be fine
enough not to mar the fabric with too large a puncture, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric without

binding or deflecting.

You will obtain best stitching results from your Sewing Machine if it is fitted with a SINGERS' Needle.

This machine uses needles

Catalogue 2020 (15X1).

Sizes 9, 11, 14, 16 and 18.

NEEDLES AND THREAD

For perfect stitching, select correct needle

and thread to correspond with fabric (see

page 6).

Be sure to use similar threads for both

needle and bobbin.

NEEDLE INSERTION

Raise the needle bar to highest point by

turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen
the needle clamp screw. Insert needle
upward into clamp as far as it will go, with

mi

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the flat side of the needle to the back and
the long groove toward you. Tighten needle
clamp screw.

UPPER THREADING-SINGLE NEEDLE

Raise take-up lever to highest point. Place thread
on spool pin and lead through threading points
shown. Thread needle from front to back. Draw
sufficient thread through eye of needle with which
to start sewing.

8

WIND THE BOBBIN

Loosen stop motion wheel with right hand. Place bobbin on spindle. Pull out bobbin winder engaging

slide.

9

.OB..N

IO

WIND THE BOBBIN (Cont'd.)

A full bobbin will automatically release. Stop

machine and push in disengaging slide.

Hold end of thread and start machine.

X

X

Tighten stop motion wheel.

11

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THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Hold bobbin so that thread leads off in direction shown. Place bobbin in case. Guide thread into slot
and under spring.

Draw thread into notch at end of spring, pulling off about 3 inches of thread across the bobbin.
Close slide plate allowing thread to enter notch.

13

PRINCIPAL PARTS OF MACHINE 431

Stitch pattern

selector

Take-up lever

Face plate

Automatic

thread control

Needle thread

tension

Stitch chart

Special disc

Bobbin winder

stitch width
léver

Hand wheel

Stitch length
regulator

Throat plate

Slide plate

14

Cloth plate
disengaging
button

Reverse

STITCH LENGTH REGULATOR

Numerals on left side of indicator represent

number of stitches per inch.

Numerals on right side represent stitch length in

To release

millimeters.

The upper indented area of the indicator repre

sents stitch lengths above 20.

The lower indented area of the indicator allows
the No. 6 stitch length setting to be "locked" in
place when stitching folds, pleats or multiple layers

of heavy fabric.

Forward

To tighten

To set stitch length

• Release pointer by turning thumb nut to the

left.

• Position lever for desired stitch length.

/

• Tighten pointer against plate by turning thumb
nut to the right.

Once the pointer has been positioned, reverse
stitching is accomplished by raising the lever to its
highest position. The No. 6 "locked" position must
be unlocked for reverse stitching.

15

STITCH WIDTH AND NEEDLE POSITION SELECTOR

A Stitch width or needle position setting is necessary for both straight and zigzag stitching.

When used with a straight stitch setting, the lever places stitching in left, centre or right needle position

(see pages 19 and 20).

When used with a decorative stitch setting, the lever controls width of primary patterns and produces

variations of combination patterns (see pages 34 and 36).

To position, depress lever and slide il left or right to desired setting. Numerals indicate five positions

but intermediate settings may also be used.

16

STITCH PATTERN SELECTOR

(Set Stitch Width Lever at 3.)

i

Pull and select

All settings on the left of the plate
are controlled by the outer knob.

Push (using right hand) —
select desired setting and release.

All settings on the right of the plate
are controlled by the inner knob.

Pull (using left hand) —
select desired setting and release.

1. Push

2. Select (A to J)

3. Release

1. Pull

2. Select (K to S)

3. Release

Do not make selector adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.

17

THROAT PLATE

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

To remove the throat plate

To replace the throat plate

Raise presser bar. Turn hand wheel until needle
bar is at its highest point. Open slide plate. Place
thumb under front end of throat plate and lift plate
from machine.

18

Place throat plate in position over two clamping
pins and press plate down until it snaps in locked
position. Then close slide plate.

STRAIGHT STITCHING

CENTRE NEEDLE POSITION AK 3

Needle Position Lever at 3 (Centre Position).
General Purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot.

Use general purpose throat plate and presser foot for all utility sewing, long straight seams, etc., and

where there is occasion to alternate between straight and zigzag stitching.

STRAIGHT STITCH THROAT PLATE AND

PRESSER FOOT

Use the straight stitch throat plate and presser

foot where fabric and sewing procedure require

close control . . . for precision stitching of curved
and scalloped edges, top stitching, edge stitching,

etc.

For best results, this equipment should be used
when stitching sheer and filmy fabrics, knits and
tricots (particularly synthetics) and all soft spongy
materials.

STRAIGHT STITCHING

SECONDARY POSITIONS

f 111

Set Selector at AK.
Needle Position Lever at 1, 2, 4 or 5.
General Purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot.

To meet special requirements a line of stitching may be placed to the left or to the right of centre.
Lever setting 1 locates stitching to the extreme left; lever setting 5 locates it to the extreme right. Inter
mediate left and right positions result when settings 2 and 4 are used.

The general purpose throat plate and presser foot must be used with left and right needle positions.
Do not make any lever adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.

20

PREPARE TO SEW

Hold needle thread lightly with left hand. Turn hand wheel so that needle enters plate and brings

up bobbin thread.

i I » ■f"'! K- jJ«“”"'«»,..

'

Pull end of bobbin thread through plate and place both needle and bobbin threads diagonally under

presser foot.

21

SEWING A SEAM

Set stitch regulator for stitch length desired. Position needle into fabric about V2 inch from edge and

lower presser foot. Raise stitch regulator to reverse.

Back stitch to edge of fabric for reinforcement. Lower regulator for forward stitching of seam. Raise

stitch regulator,
22

SEWING A SEAM (Cont'd.)

Back stitch to reinforce end of seam, and lower regulator to forward stitching position.
With take-up lever at highest point, raise presser foot and remove fabric.

23

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot.
Fabrics of unusual texture and weave, filmy sheers, crepes, tricots, etc., require support while being

stitched.

For such fabrics, use the straight stitch throat plate and presser foot, and apply gentle tension to the

seam by holding the fabric in front and at the back of the presser foot as illustrated.

24

\

PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS

To decrease pressure, turn thumb screw upward.

To increase pressure, turn screw downward.

Decrease

Pressure is the force the presser foot exerts on fabric while it is

being stitched.

. Smooth, even handling of several thicknesses of fabric results when

pressure is correctly regulated.

Too light a pressure will result in irregular feeding which affects

both quality of stitch and evenness of seams.

Too heavy a pressure not only affects stitch and seam quality but

will mar smooth surfaces and pile fabrics.

Surface finish, as well as the weight and texture of the fabric, must

be considered in determining the amount of pressure needed.

Increase

25

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

STRAIGHT STITCHING

Needle thread tension too tight —
correct by setting dial to lower
number.

A perfectly locked stitch results with the upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin
threads are drawn equally into fabric.

26

Needle thread tension too loose —
correct by setting dial to higher
number.

BOBBIN THREAD TENSION

STRAIGHT STITCHING

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Bobbin thread tension too tight
— correct by turning screw in
direction indicated.

y,iiS§i

'•'xA ''•> < •<

Bobbin thread tension too loose

— correct by turning screw in

direction indicated.

Insert for tension screwdriver

A perfectly locked stitch results with the upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin

threads are drawn equally into fabric.

27

ZIGZAG STITCHING EQUIPMENT

General purpose presser foot.

28

Special purpose presser foot.

STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT FOR SATIN STITCHING

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t

The upper indented area of the stitch indicator provides a means

of gradually shortening the stitch length.

As the regulator knob is turned, the pointer rides deeper into this

indentation until a closed satin stitch is obtained.

The exact stitch setting will vary with the texture of the fabric. It is
advisable to make a test on a scrap of self fabric, using the Special
Purpose Foot, before proceeding with the actual work.

29

SATIN STITCH

TENSION ADJUSTMENT

Satin stitching requires a lighter needle thread
tension than straight stitching or open designs. The
wider the satin stitching the lighter the tension
required.

Wide satin stitching, Stitch Width at 5, requires
the least amount of tension. For narrower satin
stitching slightly more tension should be used.

To determine correct tension setting, a test
sample should be made on self fabric using the
Special Purpose Foot. A properly balanced satin
stitch should lie flat across the material. Any taut
ness or puckering indicates too high a needle thread

/

/

tension.

Some soft fabrics may require the addition of a

backing to ensure good stitching results. Crisp

organdie and lawn are suitable for this purpose. • xight needle thread

30

tension

Correct needle thread

tension

PRIMARY PATTERNS

Selector settings "L" to "'SpeciaT' control primary patterns.
Selector setting "B" places stitching in central needle position.
Stitch width lever controls width of primary patterns.

See pages 16 and 17 for operation of Stitch Width and Stitch Pattern Selectors.

Do not make any adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.

M

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P

u

J

U

j

Q

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c.

R

S
P

E

C

I
A
L

31

PRIMARY PATTERNS

SPECIAL DISCS

These five interchangeable SPECIAL Discs, classified as Primary Patterns, are included with the

machine. Each produces an individual design.

Circled numbers (for example, @) in this book indicate SPECIAL Disc numbers.

32

PRIMARY PATTERNS

REPLACEMENT OF SPECIAL DISCS

«

Special

To replace any of these discs, move right hand pointer of Selector off SPECIAL.
Raise the stitch chart at top of the machine. Remove disc and place another disc onto spindle, pushing

downward until disc snaps in place.

Set right hand pointer on SPECIAL to engage the disc.

33

PRIMARY PATTERNS

CONTROL OF WIDTH

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i

* * *

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I

Width of Primary Patterns is controlled by the Stitch Width Selector. As the selector lever is moved

to the right, the width of the stitch pattern is increased. Settings range from a minimum of 2 to a maxi

mum of 5. Intermediate settings may also be used.

To avoid damage to needle and fabric, do not make any selector adjustments while the needle is in

the fabric.

34

PRIMARY PATTERNS

NEEDLE POSITIONS

Selector setting of B places stitching in central
needle position. Selector settings A and C place the
stitching in left and right needle positions at widths
less than 5.

Left

Centre Q

Special

Special

Right

Selector setting B is preferred. Settings A and C

are only used when special placement of stitching
is desired. For example: buttonholes, button'
sewing.

COMBINATION PATTERNS AND VARIATIONS

▼

J L 2

J L3

A great variety of additional stitch patterns can be created by combining any left hand Selector setting

from D to J with any right hand Selector setting from L to SPECIAL.

A Lever setting of 3 results in a Combination Pattern. Settings of 2 and 4 produce Variations.

36

J L 4

The needle clamp accommodates two Cata

logue 2020 (15X1) needles, generally of the

same size. However, where special effects
are desired, needles of different sizes may

be used together, with corresponding threads.

TWO NEEDLES

Loosen the thumb screw and insert the addi
tional needle from the right. (See page 7
for procedure.)

37

TWO NEEDLES

UPPER THREADING

Use size 50 mercerised thredd.

Thread as for single needle (see page 8).

Make certain that both threads are separated by
the centre guide post of the thread control and by
the centre tension disc.

Carry only one thread through the last guide
before the needle, as shown below.

I ^

Selector setting: AK

TWO NEEDLES

STRAIGHT STITCHING AK 2

2

I

Lever: 2 only
General purpose throat plate and presser foot.

39

Selector setting: "A" — "L'' to “SPECIAL"

Stitch width: 2 or 3 maximum
General purpose throat plate

General purpose foot or special purpose foot

TWO NEEDLES

PRIMARY PATTERNS

11

* * 0

• 0

\ * ♦

40

Instructions for using ATTACHMENTS...

NOTE: The attachments which are not regularly furnished with your machine are available

for separate purchase at your local SINGER SEWING CENTRE.

41

SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT

This light, flexible foot
is designed for satin
stitching. It provides
maximum visibility and
maneuverability while
allowing closely spaced
zigzag stitches to feed
freely.

It is ideal for accurate placement of satin stitch
ing in buttonholes, monograms, motifs and applique
work.

•:i%

%

# #

BUTTONHOLES

Selector: AL
Stitch Width: See Below
Throat plate: General purpose
Special purpose foot
Stitch length: Fine

To establish the correct stitch setting and length

of buttonhole, a sample must first be made.

Three Stitch Width settings are available. Fabric

weight and buttonhole size will determine the

selection.

The eyelet on the left side of the foot accommod
ates a filler cord.

APPLICATIONS

Buttonholes
Applique

Decorative Stitching

Couching

Monograms

42

Motifs

BUTTONHOLES

Marking

lines

Length of

cutting space

I

Bar tacks and

side stitching

The length of cutting space, the opening through which the button passes, is measured by the width

and thickness of the button.

The length of the finished buttonhole will be the cutting space plus Vs inch for bar tacks.

Work a sample buttonhole in the same fabric as the garment. Use a double fold, duplicating a facing

and include interfacing if this has been used.

43

BUTTONHOLES (Cont'd.)

Procedure. Set Selector (AL) and Width Lever (see page 42). Place work under needle, aligning centre

marking of buttonhole with centre score line of Special Purpose Foot.

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C

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D

Side Stitching. Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower foot and stitch to end of marking. Leave

needle in fabric at point B. Raise foot and pivot work on needle. Lower foot. Take one stitch without

changing Width setting, bringing work to point C.

Bai Tack. Adjust Stitch Width for bar tacks and take no less than six stitches. Stop at point D.

Side Stitching. Readjust Stitch Width for side stitching. Complete work to point E. Leave needle in fabric.

Final Bar Tack. Adjust Stitch Width for bar tacks, and take no less than six stitches in reverse, ending
at point F.

44

BUTTONHOLES (Cont'd.)

Raised or Corded Buttonholes. Either strands of

stitching thread or buttonhole twist make suitable
filler cords for raised buttonholes.

Place the spool of filler cord on the second spool

pin. Carry the cord through the first thread guide,

straight down between the centre and back tension
discs, into the large thread guide and then through

the eyelet on the Special Purpose Foot. Draw the

cord under and to the back of the foot and proceed
as for regular buttonholes.

©

F

Fastening Stitch. To secure stitching, move Stitch

Width Lever to 1 setting and take three stitches.

Remove work, draw threads to underside, fasten
and trim. Cut opening for button with sharp em
broidery scissors or buttonhole scissors.

45

APPLIQUE

Appliqué adds beauty and interest to wearing

apparel,' linens and fabric furnishings.

Either contrasting or self fabric may be used

effectively. The most versatile stitch for appliqué
is a closely set zigzag stitch (Primary Pattern BL).
The width of this stitch may be varied to accom

modate weaves and textures of fabrics. Combina

tion Patterns and Variations present many interest

ing ways to appliqué with decorative stitching.

Preparation. There are two methods by which

Method No. 1. Set Selector and Lever for the

desired stitch pattern. Following the shape of the
design, outline it entirely with appliqué stitching.

Any excess fabric on the outer edges is trimmed

away after the stitching has been completed.

appliqué work may be done. The appropriate

9

method is determined by the fabric being used, and
a test sample is advisable.

Position the design properly and baste it to the

fabric. Attach the Special Purpose Foot to the

presser bar.

46

APPLIQUE

Method No. 2. Set Selector and Lever to AK 3

for straight stitching. Outline the entire design with
a short stitch. Trim the raw edges down to the
stitching.

Set Selector and Lever to the stitch pattern
desired, and overedge the design with this stitch
ing. A smooth, lustrous finish results, which requires
no additional trimming.

Corded Appliqué. The Special Purpose Foot,

which provides for a filler cord, is perfect for
corded appliqué work. Gimp, crochet thread or but
tonhole twist are generally used.

See page 45 for threading.

Either method of appliqué may be used when

cording is desired. The only change in procedure

is the introduction of the cord, over which the
appliqué stitching is formed.

This stitching technique results in a raised, dimen

sional effect, and is an ideal finish for lace appliqué.

47

MONOGRAMS AND MOTIFS

Any of the many stitch patterns are perfect for

monograms and motifs.

Select a design from the many transfer patterns

available or sketch one to suit your purpose.

Some fabrics may require a backing of lawn or
organdie.

Position the design on the right side of the

material. Trim backing away when stitching is

completed, if necessary.

To reproduce a specific portion of a stitch pattern,

first stitch on a scrap of material until the desired

point in the design is reached.

48

Remove the material from under the pr^sser foot.
Now position motif or monogram under the needle.
Lower presser foot and stitch.

This procedure is recommended for all precise
design placement. Leaves, and flower petals, for

example are created in this way.

SEAMING SHEERS

Selector: BL
Stitch Width: 2
Throat plate: General Purpose
Special purpose foot
Stitch length: Fine (above 20)

A dainty hair-line finish is particularly desirable for the inside seams of sheer collars, facings and

yokes. Seam allowances that ordinarily show through are eliminated.

Both heavy duty thread and tatting thread make suitable filler cords (see page 45 for threading).

Follow the seam outline covering the cord. Cut away seam allowance close to line of stitching.

Turn and press.

COUCHING

Novel effects are obtained by couching gimp,

yarn or braid with stitch patterns.

Spaced patterns are the most appropriate as they
allow the decorative cords to show as part of the
design.

The Special Purpose Foot is ideally suited to this

work (see page 45 for threading).

LACE EDGING AND INSERTION

Delicate, yet durable zigzag stitching is especially
appropriate for the application of lace edgings and
insertions.

Many decorative stitch patterns can be used

effectively serving as both finish and trim.

50

BUTTON SEWING FOOT

This short, open foot

accommodates any
size sew-through
button, and holds it
securely for stitch
ing. The groove in
the foot allows for
insertion of a ma
chine needle, over
which a thread
shank may be form
ed.

The foQt is used in connection with the General

Purpose Feed Cover Plate.

Selector setting: AL
Stitch Width: 1 and 4

General Purpose Feed Cover Plate

Button sewing foot
Stitch length: above 20

Space between holes in button determines Stitch Width settings. Numbers 1 and 4 generally apply to

standard buttons. Number 1 setting is constant, but 4 can be increased or decreased to accommodate
buttons with unusual spacing.

Set Selector at AL and Stitch Width at 1. Attach general purpose feed cover plate to machine in place

of regular throat plate in same manner as instructed on page 18.

Position button under foot so that needle will enter into left hole. Lower foot. Turn hand wheel toward

you until needle rises out of fabric and is just above foot.

51

BUTTON SEWING FOOT

Set Lever at 4. The needle should then enter into
the right hole of the button. Take approximately
six zigzag stitches in this position. End at the left
side.

To fasten stitching, adjust to number 1 Stitch

Width setting and take approximately three stitches.

THREAD SHANK

In order to form a shank, stitching is worked

over a regular machine needle. Position button and
lower button foot. Place needle in the groove of
the .foot so t];ie point enters the hole.

A larger shank results when the heavy end of

the needle is utilized.

52

Used with the general purpose throat plate this

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SEAMS

LINGERIE SEAMS

Dainty lingerie seams are made durable and rip-

proof with zigzag stitching (BL 2V2). After straight
stitching the fitted seam on the wrong side, press
both seam allowances in the same direction. From
the right side, top stitch with a fine zigzag setting,
letting the needle enter the seam line and then the
seam thickness. Particularly good where flat bias
seams are desired.

foot provides a wide needle slot which accommo
dates all stitch settings and can be used for most

sewing operations.

APPLICATIONS

Seams and Darts Automatic Scalloping
Mending and Maintenance

Seam Finishes

53

SEAMS

FLAT FELLED SEAMS

Zigzag stitching gives strength and durability to

flat felled seams.

Form the seam to the right side of the fabric,

taking full seam allowance, using a zigzag stitch

(BL 3).

Press the seam open, then fold and press the

two edges together, keeping the right side of the

zigzag stitch uppermost.

Trim away half the under seam edge.
Fold the upper seam edge evenly over the trim

med seam, and top stitch.

KNIT FABRIC SEAMS

A fine zigzag stitch (BL IV2) is ideal for seaming

knit fabrics. Particularly desirable for underarm

seams, or other seams where elasticity and give

are needed.

For neckline and waistline seams, where a stay
is needed to prevent undue stretching, this same
stitch can be used to apply seam tape. To ensure
a flat, smooth finish, position the seam tape with
the edge exactly on the sam line. If seam is cur
ved, pre-shape tape to fit by steaming, and baste
in place.

Stitch, allowing the needle alternately to enter
the seam tape and seam line.

>.saw®l

54

'< '. .J

SEAM FINISHES

Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish where fabrics have a tendency

to fray.

The zigzag stitch BL is ideaifor such finishing. Place the stitching near the edge of the seam allowance,

and then trim away excess fabric.

For an overedged seam, the blind stitch BO makes a durable bulkless finish. Good fgr straight grain,

lengthwise seams.

Seam edges should be trimmed evenly, and the stitch then formed over the raw edge.

DARTS

Darts provide fit and contour in a garment and

should be accurately stitched.

A straight stitch dart (AK 3) is usually formed

by stitching from the seam edge, tapering grad
ually to the point, where the last 3 or 4 stitches
parallel the fold. Stitch beyond the fabric to form

a thread chain V2 to V4 inch in length. Tie the thread

ends into a single knot close to the stitching.

SINGLE THREAD DARTS

Darts add styling and interest when stitched with
the fold to the outside of garment. Thread ends at
the point of the dart are eliminated when the single

thread principle is employed.

Unthread the needle. Use the thread leading off

the bobbin and rethread the needle from back
to front. Tie bobbin and upper threads together.
Draw bobbin thread up
through threading points,
winding enough on the ..i.,

spool to complete a single
dart. Lower the needle
into the very edge of the
fold at the point of the
dart. Take any slack out

56

of the thread by turning
the spool. Lower the pres
ser foot and stitch care

fully toward the seam
edge.

This method is also
ideal for inside darts in
sheer fabrics as thread
ends are eliminated at the
point of the dart.

DARTS IN INTERFACING

Non-woven interfacings can be shaped without

bulk with zigzag stitching. Selector setting BL or
BQ may be used.

Cut out the dart allowance on the stitching line
and bring the raw edges together. Pin, over a
muslin stay, and stitch. Back stitch at both ends.

BLANKET BINDING

The multiple stitch zigzag (BQ) is an excellent
stitch for applying blanket bindings and affords
both a decorative and durable finish. Remove worn
binding. Baste new binding securely in place and
stitch. Adjust pressure if necessary, to accommo
date the thickness of the blanket.

57

MENDING

Zigzag stitching is well suited for all types of

household mending. Selector setting BQ provides
a firm, flexible bond for the repair of rents and
tears, and is ideal for the reinforcement and ap
plication of elastic. Stitch length and width are
regulated according to need.

Rent or Tear. Trim away ragged edges. Place

an underlay to the wrong side of the tear for rein
forcement. Using the multiple stitch zigzag (BQ)
follow the line of the tear bringing the edges to

gether. Shorten the stitch length at ends and cor

ners to give extra strength.

58

Application of Elastic.

Elastic, such as used in
waist bands, must be
stretched as it is applied,
to ensure fullness re
quired in the garment.

SCALLOPING

Dainty scalloped edges are used extensively as self trimming on blouses, dresses, lingerie and chil

dren's wear.

Perfectly formed and evenly spaced scallops are produced automatically at Selector Settings BR and

BS

BR results in a 12-stitch scallop.

BS a 24-stitch scallop.

Stitch regulator and Lever settings vary the length and depth of the scallop.

After stitching, trim seam allowance to less than Vs" and clip into the points between scallops.
Some fabrics may also need notching, for a smooth, evenly turned edge. /
Turn, gently roll out scallops between the fingers and press.
When scalloping a shaped or bias edge it is best to use an interfacing.
When forming scalloped tucks, add an extra V4" to tuck allowance for seaming.

The seam guide aids
in attaining uniformity
of seam width. It provi

des for stitching to be spaced at any distance bet
ween Va" to IV4" from the edge of the fabric.

SEAMS

To guide seam stitching straight and parallel to

the edge of the fabric, adjust the attachment for

proper seam width. Align the guide with the presser

foot. (Set Selector at AK, Lever at 3.)

Pin seam edges and baste if necessary. Hand

basting can be eliminated on easy-to-handle fab

rics. Place pins with the points toward the seam

edge so they nip into the fabric at the stitching
line. The hinged presser foot will ride freely over
the points. Guide the fabric edges lightly against

the guide while stitching.

APPLICATIONS

Seams Blind Stitching

Top Stitching Decorative Stitching

The attachment is used in connection with a

presser foot.

It is secured to the bed of the machine in either

of the threaded holes to the right of the needle.

60

SEAMS (Cont'd.)

TOP STITCHING

Curved seams require additional treatment in
handling. A shorter stitch will provide greater
elasticity and strength. Set the attachment at an

angle so that the end closest to the needle acts
as a guide.

A simple and practical way to accent the lines
of a garment and at the same time give additional
firmness.

Either single or multiple rows of stitching can

be expertly placed along lapels and facing edges,
round collars and pockets and as a hem finish.

A subtle effect may be achieved by using straight

stitching, or a decorative touch may be added by
using any of the attractive stitch patterns accom
plished with this machine.

/

/

BLIND STITCHED HEMS

Selector setting: BO
Stitch Width: 2 — 5
Stitch length: 10 — 20
Presser foot: General purpose
Throat plate: General purpose seam guide

Blind stitching provides a durable hem finish that

is almost invisible and comparable to hand sewing.

Mark, turn and press hem in the usual way. Baste

a guide line V4" from the top of the hem edge.

Place the hem edge over the feed of the machine,
turn back the bulk of the fabric to the line of bast
ing, thereby creating a soft fold.

Position the work so that straight stitches are
made on the hem edge and sideways stitches pierce
the fold.

Adjust the seam guide over the right toe of the

presser foot until it rests next to the soft fold. While

stitching, feed the fold against the flat of the guide.

When stitching is completed, swing the seam

guide out of position before raising presser foot.

A test sample should be made to determine stitch
width and stitch length for weight and texture of
fabric used.

62

THE CORDING FOOT

pins, heavy layers of fabric or cross seams. It is attached to the machine
in place of the regular presser foot, and may be adjusted to either the

be used.

•f: -i: #

# # # # f: |! # # # 'Is i| # # # # # t

This foot is designed to facilitate the placing of stitching close to a

raised edge. The hinged feature of this foot ensures even feeding over

right or left side of the needle. Straight stitch or zigzag settings may

APPLICATIONS

Zip Fastener Insertions
Corded Seams

Preparation. Secure the cording foot to the pres

ser bar as you would the regular presser foot. Set
Selector and Lever. Adjustment to the right or left
of the needle is made by loosening the thumb screw

Tubular Cording

Slip Cover Piping

at the back. Check the position of the foot by
lowering the needle into the side notch, making sure
it clears the foot. Lock it into position bv tightening
the thumb screw.

63

ZIP FASTENER INSERTION

Straight stitch setting: AK 3
Throat plate: General purpose
Cording foot

Many different types of zips are available for
everything you sew. There are several satisfactory
methods for insertion. Detailed sewing instructions
are included in zip packet. For any method used,
the Cording Foot enables you to form an even line

of stitching close to the zip.

When the zip is to the right of the needle —

• Adjust the Cording Foot to the left of the needle.

When the zip is to the left of the needle —•

• Adjust the Cording Foot to the right of the

needle.

64

BLIND STITCHED ZIP FASTENER INSERTION

Selector setting: BO
Stitch Width: 2Vi or 3
Throat plate: General purpose
Stitch length: 12
Cording foot

Blind stitching the final step of a zip insertion
results in a fine finish that is almost invisible and
comparable to hand sewing. Particularly suitable
for chiffons, sheers, velvets and all delicate fabrics
where top stitching would be too harsh.

Allow a Vs" seam allowance. Start the insertion

in the regular way but omit final step.

Work from the right side of the garment and pin

the front of the zip tape into position.

Roll the work over finger to ease fabric and pin
through all thicknesses. Baste about Vs" from seam
line to provide guide for blind stitching. Remove
pins.

Set stitch and adjust cording foot to the right
side of the needle.

Turn garment inside out. Place zip tape over
feed of machine and turn back the front section of
garment to line of basting, creating a soft fold.
Position work so that the straight line of stitching

is made through front seam allowance and zip tape,

and the sideways stitch pierces a few threads of the
fold. Lower presser bar and stitch slowly. Remove
bastings. Press.

65

CORDED PIPING

Straight stitch setting: AK 3
Throat plate: General purpose or straight stitch
Cording foot

Piping cord comes in a variety of sizes and, when covered with a firmly woven fabric, makes a piping

that is an excellent seam finish.

This piping is prepared in advance and then stitched into the seam. Cut a true bias strip IV4 inches
wide, plus three times the width of the cord, of either self or contrasting fabric. Sew strips together on
the lengthwise grain to obtain desired length.

Adjust cording foot to the left side of the needle. Encase the cord in the bias strip, raw edges even.

Lower presser bar. Stitch close to the cord, applying gentle tension to bias strip in front and back of the

cording foot. Use a stitch length slightly longer than for regular seaming. Do not crowd the stitching

against the cord.

66

CORDED SEAMS

Straight stitch setting: AK 3

Throat plate: General purpose or straight stitch

Cording foot

The corded seam is a professional treatment for

slip covers, children's clothes, blouses and lingerie.

When cording a seam the cording foot is usually

adjusted to the right of the needle so that the bulk
of the work will fall to the left.

Attach the piping to the right side of a single
seam edge, with the same stitch length used to
make the piping

foot next to the cord, but do not crowd.

(page 66). Guide the edge of the

Place the attached piping over the second seam

edge, and pin or baste together.

Keep the first stitching uppermost as a guide and
position the seam under needle. Stitch, this time
crowding the foot against the cord.

This method produces evenly joined seam edges

and tightly set welting.

Curved seams are corded as easily as straight
seams, except that a shorter stitch length is used.
Since the seam allowance of the welting is bias, it
is not difficult to shape it to the seam.

67

THE NARROW HEMMER

* #■ is i # #

iS; # % si: is

iil ;;ii' jii-

:*■ '-'i:-

Fine hems
Edging ruffles
Hemmed seams

Straight stitch setting: AK 3
Throat plate: Straight stitch
Narrow hemmer

The narrow hemmer forms
and stitches a perfectly turn
ed hem without basting or

pressing. It is attached to
the machine in place of the
regular presser foot.

APPLICATIONS

Hemming with lace

Lingerie finishes

the fabric under the foot and stitch the creased fold

for several stitches. Hold the thread ends in the left
hand and guide the raw edge in front of the hem
mer evenly into the scroll. Sew slowly, still holding
thread ends until the hem is well started.

Soft fabrics will enter the scroll best with the foot

down; firm, crisp materials with the foot raised.

Even feeding is essential to good hemming. The
same width of fabric must be kept in the scroll of
the hemmer at all times. A little practice will result

in perfectly formed hems.

HEMMING

Crease a double Vs" fold for about 2 inches along
the edge of the fabric to be hemmed. Draw the
bobbin and needle threads under the hemmer. Place

68

HEMMED SEAMS

DECORATIVE HEMS

Straight stitch setting: AK 3
Throat plate: Straight stitch
Narrow hemmer

A hemmed seam is applied where a fine narrow

seam is appropriate. Allow a scant V4" seam allo
wance. With both sides of fabric together, place
upper layer Vs" to left of lower layer. Insert two

fabric edges into hemmer and proceed as for plain

hem.

Selector: All settings
Stitch Width: 2 to 4
Throat plate: General purpose
Narrow hemmer

Narrow hem edges can be turned and decorated
in one operation using the narrow hemmer and a
stitch pattern. This time-saving finish is especially
suited to ruffle edges and aprons.

HEMMING WITH LACE

Selector setting: BL
Stitch Width: 3
Throat plate: General purpose
Narrow hemmer

Lace edgings can be applied with the Narrow

Hemmer to trim lingerie hems, children's clothes,

etc.

Lace Applied Over Hem. Fold and start the hem

in the usual way. Starting about 1" down from the

end of the lace, place the selvage under the needle
and lower needle to hold lace firmly. Raise the foot

slightly and slip the lace under the back portion

of the foot, without disturbing the position of the

fabric. Stitch slowly, guiding the fabric with the

right hand, the lace with the left. Take care not to
stretch the lace.

Lace Applied Under Hem. When using lace un

derneath the fold of a hem, the procedure is the

same as when making a hemmed seam. Slip the

lace in from the left as you would the second piece
of fabric. This method is used where a neat finish
is desired on both sides of the material.

70

Commercial single fold bias tape is inserted from

Adjusting

lug

Scroll for

unfolded

binding

Slot for

folded bias

tape

Selector settings: All
Throat plate: General purpose

Guide

pins

the right into the slot at the wide end of the scroll.
Unfolded bias wide is inserted into the open
ing at the end of the scroll.

Cut binding diagonally and pull through the

scroll until evenly folded edges are under the

needle. Free length of binding is held between the

guide pins.

Insert the edge to be bound into the centre of
the scroll. Position stitching by moving the scroll
portion of the binder to the right or left by means

of the adjusting lug.

The multi-slotted binder is used to apply com
mercial binding as well as self-fabric bias to an un
finished edge. This colourful trimming is attractive
when applied to children's wear, aprons and house
hold linens. It is a practical finish for seam edges
that fray and for making bound seams.

71

MULTI-SLOTTED BINDER (Cont'd.)

Curved edges require slightly different fabric handling from straight edges. Inside curves are straigh

tened as they are fed into the binder. If fabric is soft and has a tendency to stretch, reinforce the edge

with a single row of stitching before binding.

Outside curves tend to lead away from the centre slot of the scroll and should be guided so that a full

seam width is taken at the needle point. Do not attempt to pull or straighten fabric into the full length of
the scroll.

72

fi' %

m % m m # -is- # # # #' ü ü ì* * # # -i? « » # ■# # # 'i? i

Fork
Arm

Adjusting

Finger

Adjusting

Lever

Straight stitch setting: AK 3
Throat plate: Straight stitch

Ruffler

Adjusting Points

The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or

pleats. The number 1 space setting is for gathers

and places fullness at every stitch. Numbers 6 and
12 are space settings for pleats, spacing them 6 or
12 stitches apart. The star is for straight stitching
and is used when grouping gathers or pleats.

The adjusting finger is used only for pleating

and affects the width of the pleat. It is thrown out
of action by bringing it out of contact with the
adjusting screw.

This attachment offers a simple and effective way
to make gathered and pleated ruffles. Ruffles may
be made separately or made and applied at the
same time. The ruffler is attached to the machine

in place ctf the regular presser foot and is used with
a straight stitch setting only.

The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of

gathers or pleats. When turned inward to its limit

with the adjusting finger in place, the attachment
is set for its deepest pleat. When turned outward

to its limit, with the adjusting finger out of action,
the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness.

73

THE RÜFFLER (Cont'd.)

Activating Parts

The ruffling blade and the separator blade are

of blue steel and hold the material to be gathered

between them. The ruffling blade forms the gathers
or pleats by carrying the fabric to the needle

according to the spacing and fullness to which the

ruffler is adjusted. The separator guide is slotted to

guide seam edges evenly and to separate the ruffle

strip from the material to which the ruffle is

attached.

Gathering

• Set adjusting lever on Number 1 setting and
throw adjusting finger out of action.

• Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness
desired and set stitch length to space fullness.
Turn screw in for more fullness; turn out for
less fullness.

Preparation

• Raise needle to its highest point.

• Locate ruffler on presser bar with fork arm over
needle clamp screw.. Securely tighten both
presser bar and needle clamp screws.

74

THE RÜFFLER (Cont'd.)

Length of sewing machine stitch also affects ruffle
fullness. Since a given attachment setting puts an
equal amount of fullness into each stitch regardless
of its length, shortening the stitch (more stitches to
the inch) makes ruffle fuller; lengthening the stitch

(fewer stitches to the inch) makes it less full. For
fine, closely spaced gathering, use a short stitch
and an outward adjustment of adjusting screw. For
deeper, less closely spaced gathering, turn adjust
ing screw inward and use a medium stitch length.

Ruffling

Material

Attaching Fulls

• Place strip to be gathered between two blue
blades and through first separator guide.

• Place material to which full is to be attached
between separator blade and feed of machine.

• Proceed as for plain gathering.
Right sides of fabric are placed together when

the seam is to fall to the inside.

• Insert material to be gathered between blue
blades and through first separator guide.

• Draw material to back of needle.

• Lower presser bar and stitch.

Fabric texture influences performance of ruffler
as well as results. Soft fabrics, cut on crosswise
grain, are best adapted for gathered fulls. Always
test stitch length and ruffler setting on a scrap of
self-fabric before proceeding with the actual work.

75

THE RÜFFLER (Cont'd.)

Pleating

• Move adjusting lever to desired space setting
for pleats either 6 or 12 stitches apart.

•' Set stitch length.

For deepest pleat, set adjusting finger and turn
adjusting screw inward to. its maximum setting. For
smaller pleats, turn adjusting screw outward.

A short stitch places pleats more closely together;

a long stitch separates the pleats for a greater
distance.

• Insert fabric to be pleated between blue blades
and into first separator guide.

• Lower presser bar and stitch.

Crisp fabrics cut on the crosswise grain form the
sharpest pleats. Glazed fabrics handle best if the
glazed side is downward and the soft backing is
next to the ruffler blade.

Group pleating

By using the star setting (straight stitching) alter
nately with 6 or 12 space setting, pleats are formed
in groups. Even spacing between groups is accomp
lished by counting the number of stitches.

76

DARNING AND EMBROIDERY FOOT

This attachment is an aid to

all who desire perfection in free
motion darning and embroidery
work.

The foot firmly holds the fabric
as the needle enters and rises
from the work, while fully re
vealing the line of design to be
followed.

Free motion work darning

Straight stitch setting: AK 3
Feed cover plate
Darning and embroidery foot

Stitch length: Above 20

Trim ragged edges from area to be darned.
Centre worn section in embroidery hoops.
Attach feed cover plate to machine bed in place

of regular throat plate.
Locate darning and embroidery foot on presser
bar with lifting finger over needle clamp screw.

# i « iif # # i?? # # # ■ $;; ils 1 ■ ?; •i? ® ® s? w ii; ;?■ ai- iK * ij.

i

• Position work under needle and lower presser
bar. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand,
turn hand wheel over and draw bobbin thread
up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and
lower needle into fabric.

• Outline opening with running stitches V4" from

edge for reinforcement.

• Stitch across opening, moving hoops under need
le at a slight angle, from lower left to upper right.
Keep lines of stitching closely and evenly spaced.

• When opening is filled, turn work 90° and con
tinue stitching until darn is completed.

• Run machine at moderate speed and control
hoops with a steady continuous movement. Slow
movement of hoops will produce a short stitch;
more rapid movement lengthens the stitch.

Fairly long stitches are best for knit and tricot

fabrics; short stitches are best for cottons and

linens as they approximate weave of fabric.

77

Selector setting: BL
Stitch Width: 2 —5
Feed cover plate
Darning and embroidery foot
Stitch length: Above 20

Script monograms and embroidery can be effec

tively accomplished with the zigzag stitch when the

free motion principle is employed.

FREE MOTION WORK

MONOGRAMS — EMBROIDERY

• Trace or mark design on right side of fabric.

• Place work in embroidery hoops large enough
to encompass entire design. Be sure fabric is
held taut.

• Attach feed cover plate to machine bed in place

of regular throat plate.

• Locate darning and embroidery foot on presser
bar with lifting finger over needle clamp screw.

• Position work under needle and lower presser
bar. Bring bobbin thread up through fabric at
start of design. Hold both thread ends to start

stitching.

78

• Move hoops slowly, following outline of design.
Maintain an even rate of speed so that stitches

are uniformly placed.

Slow movement of hoops produces a close satin

stitch; more rapid movement lengthens the stitch

and results in an open effect.

Shading stitches from wide to narrow is controll

ed by the angle at which work is placed and moved

under needle.

A test sample should always- be made before
proceeding with the actual work to determine stitch
setting and spacing. Some fabrics may require

addition of un underlay of crisp lawn or organdie.

DECORATIVE STITCH PATTERNS

Examples of Stitch Patterns and their Selector Settings

gggn __ MiB HugM gng| mill mm imi ims ims mm mmi hééi mM mm mm mM ìmé imk mm mm mMi mmm imm mms mm

AnJTJTjnjriTLJTJrUVinjlAriJTjyTJTJTJVT^^

DP4

DS (D 2

DS (D 3

EP2

F02

FR2

FS © 3

79

DECORATIVE STITCH PATTERNS

Examples of Stitch Patterns and their Selector Settings

UJiUiMAMAJlM^jlMiJljlJUjLMjUuUUjUAAJLÌMjlMUÌ%MJuMMU>Ml^

GM 4

GP 4

GS (D 2

«4> *4» -4^^

GS @ 4

HS (3) 4

■v/VAySj\Ayv^j\Ays,rNysyv\yvAy\/\y\Ayv\/\Aj\/\Au^v\AySj\A.AySj\/\A7\/^^

IL2

IS 0 4

80

APPLICATIONS

OF THE

CYLINDER BED

FEATURE

81

83

84

85

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|í!:;Sf;S!í|;í||í^

ifcl

^lí

....

il

»%;'ÂiiiÉÉS4

'Í

àïii'ïïiiSibiSiïviis^iHi®

,y»''"' y V’Vi

,y

4:î:

..

' - •"'■ ■ " • ’• ^

Т1тгтгУфТ'

I Ч|!”;* ;

^"4 ' '■ '■-i”'
У/Д î|fe«'S '.5>¿

i V ■*'Í , ^

' ï> Й ' o

-» -1 s ä ; i l

%■ 511Щ ;l|

I - Aljli \|l

ШЩ W'W-

ШЩ ¡‘-f

{ il

'"‘'»»sa.

iÎ'SIgïàÂSi |v Í': r

"i, ' ü/'

•ууГ'"

■J û

'''“»«.о.Иёиздд^

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Ф?жУг-М J'*'"'r u I

y : У . -r

• vi _^.У'

/ y^".

w/-

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:,i

■:f / .

Á

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..................

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'■•Чч Ш

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86

1

t

I

ii

TO CLEAN THE MACHINE

Your sewing machine was built to exacting
standards of precision and workmanship. Its per
formance depends on the care and treatment it
receives when in use and before storing it away.

When in regular use, the machine should be
cleaned periodically to remove the lint and fluff
which may have accumulated round the working
parts. To clean the bobbin case area, see instruc
tions for removing and replacing bobbin case on
pages 88 and 89. Oil the machine after each clean
ing as instructed on pages 90, 91 and 92.

If the machine is to be stored away for an inde

Clean

between

tension

discs

finite period of time, a thorough brush-cleaning to

remove all traces of lint and fluff, followed by
swabbing of all exposed parts with a lint-free brush
saturated with SINGER* Oil, is necessary to protect

the machine against rust damage. The areas that
should be cleaned and covered with a protective

coat of oil are shown in the illustration at the left.

87

TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN CASE

V Sv-V..

Vsv<.x...

To clean hook raceway, remove bobbin case as

follows:

1. Remove throat plate (see page 18) and open

slide plate (see page 12).

2. Unlock bobbin case by lifting and pulling

holder to right as shown.

3. Remove bobbin case from machine.

4. Remove all lint, fluff, loose thread ends or any

other foreign matter which might clog the machine.

68

Positioning stud

TO REPLACE THE BOBBIN CASE

I :l' .....

yi(Ci5i

...

\ / i

'"'"I

5. Replace bobbin case so that groove under tension spring fits on hook raceway and fork of case

straddles positioning stud.

6. Push bobbin case holder to left as shown until it snaps down into lock position.

7. Close bed slide and replace throat plate.

89

TO LUBRICATE THE MACHINE

Use SINGER Oil and SINGER Lubricant!

Both are extra quality products especially pre
pared for sewing machines, and should always be
used in the care of your 431.

90

Clean the machine periodically as instructed on

page 87.

Apply a drop of oil to each place indicated.
Remove screws A and lift off arm top cover.
Apply a small amount of lubricant to the gears

as shown.

A tube of this lubricant can be purchased at your

Singer Sewing Centre.

Never apply Oil to these gears.

TO LUBRICATE THE MACHINE (Cont'd.)

Swing face plate to left and oil the places indi

cated.

Open slide plate and apply a drop of oil to the

hook raceway as indicated.

Close slide plate, replace arm top cover and close

face plate.

91

Clean

TO LUBRICATE THE MACHINE (Cont'd.)

llÉÉàSp

A '

iX,

Tilt machine back and remove thumb nut from screw B, being careful not to lose felt washer, and

remove cover from underside of machine.

Remove screw C and remove cylinder cover.

Clean hook and gear area, oil each of the places indicated, and occasionally apply a small quantity of

lubricant to teeth of gears as shown.

Replace bottom cover and cylinder cover.

The motor requires no lubrication.

92

ELECTRICAL INFORMATION

The SINGER* Electric Motor in the electric ma

chine is furnished for operation on an alternating
or direct current. Orders must state the catalogue
number of the motor, or the voltage, and in the
case of alternating current, the number of cycles.

Before Inserting Electric Plug A, be sure that

voltage and cycles stamped on electrical nameplate
B are within range marked on your electric meter
installed by your power company.

Electrical Connections for Machine. Push 3-pin
terminal plug C on 3-pin terminal block at right of
machine and connect plug A at other end of cord
to electric outlet.

Speed Controller. The speed of machine is regu
lated by amount of pressure on the pedal of the
foot controller D or the knee lever.

93

LIGHT

The light is turned "on" or "off" by the switch F.

To Remove Bulb. Remove screw H and lamp

cover E. Do not attempt to ynscrew bulb. Press it

into socket and at same time turn bulb over in
direction shown to unlock bulb pin G, then with

draw bulb.

To Replace Bulb. Press new bulb into socket with

bulb pin G entering slot of socket and turn it over

in direction shown to lock bulb pin G in position.
Replace lamp cover E and securely fasten it in
position with screw H.

94

Locks

5

Unlocks

INDEX

Applications of Cylinder Bed Feature.....................................81—86

Appliqué
Attadiments

Button Sewing Foot .......... 51—52

Darning and Embroidery Foot.............................................77—78

Narrow Hemmer

General Purpose Foot
Multi-slotted Binder

Ruffler ....

Seam Guide

Special Purpose Foot.............................................................42—50

Cording Foot..........................................................................63—67

Binding

Blanket Binding, Replacing of......................................................... 57

Blind Stitdiing

Hems.............................................................................................. 62

Zip Insertion . . 65

Bobbin

Preparing for Stitdiing....................................................... . 21

Removing....................................................................................... 12

Thread Tension.............................................................................. 27

Winding.................................................................................. 9—11

Bobbin Case

Removal and Replacement....................................................88—89

Threading

Buttonholes

Corded............................................................................................ 45

Button Sewing

Cleaning the Madiine

Combination Patterns and Variations ..... 36

Illustrations............................................................................79—80

Corded Appliqué
Corded Buttonholes
Cording

Seams................................................................................... . 67

Welting.......................................................................................... 66

Cording Foot

Piping and Corded Seams ........ 66—67

Zip Insertion

Cdudiing........................................................................................... 50

Cylinder Bed, Applications
Darning and Embroidery Foot

Darning, Free Motion Work............................................................ 77

Darts...........................................................................................66—67

Interfacing ............ 67

Single Thread

.......................................

.........................................

......

...............................................................................

...............................................

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.......

......

......................................................................... 66

......

• ... . . 46—47

......

.......................................71—72

................................

......

64—67

......

64—65

.............................................

...............................................

68—70

53—59

71—72
73—76
60—62

13

42—45

51—52

87—89

47

45

81—86
77—78

Decorative Hems

Decorative Stitch Patterns ....

Designs and Motifs ......

Detachable Cloth Plate . . . .

Elastic, Applications........................................

Electrical Information ......

Light .............................................................

Motor
Embroidery, Free Motion Work .

Features ...........................................................

Principal Parts of Machine ....

Feed Cover Plate

Button Sewing

Free Motion Work . . . . .

Filler Cord, Threading

Free Motion Work ......

Gathering.........................................................

General Purpose Foot, Applications .

Guiding and Supporting Fabric .
Hemmed Seams
Hemming with Lace

Hems

Blind Stitched...............................................

Decorative
Knit Fabric Seams

Lace

Appliqué

Edging and Insertion .....

Length of Stitch, Regulating ....

Light Bulb, Replacement ...
Lubricating
Mending
Monograms and Motifs

Free Motion Work

Motor................................................................

Multi-slotted Binder

Narrow Hemmer .......

Decorative Hems..........................................

Hemmed Seams............................................

Hemming with Lace
Needle and Thread Selection

Needle and Thread..........................................

Needle Insertion

Needle Position and Stitch Width Selector

Needle Positions . . . . . . •

......

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.....

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69

79—80

48

5

58

91—94

94

93

78

2—3

14

51—52
77—78

45
77—78
74—75
53—59

24

69

70

62

69

54

47

50

15

94
90—92

58

48

78

93

71—72

68—70

69

69

70

6

7

and 37

16

36

95

Needle Thread Tension

Satin Stitching
Straight Stitching

Needle Threading

Single................................................................................................ 8

Two................................................................................................. 38

Oiling...............................

Overcasting........................................................................................ 55

Piping................................................................................................. 66

Pleating.............................................................................................. 76

Prepare to Sew.................................................................................. 21

Pressure Adjustments...................................................................... 25

Primary Patterns.......................................................................31—35

Control of Width........................................................................... 34

Needle Positions............................................................................. 35

Special Discs...........................................................................32—33

Stitch Width and Stitch Pattern Selectors .... 31

Principal Parts of Machine
Reverse Stitching

Application................................................................

Regulation..................................................................................... 15

Ruffler.................................................

Attaching Ruffle
Gathering
Pleating

Satin Stitching

Stitch Length Adjustment

Tension Adjustment...................................................................... 30

Scalloping........................................................................................... 59

Seam Finishes.................................................................................... 55

Seam Guide................................................................................60—62

Blind Stitched Hems...................................................................... 62

Seams...............................................

Top Stitching.................................................................................. 61

Seams

Corded............................................................................................ 67

Flat Felled...................................................................................... 54

Guiding and Supporting............................................................... 24

Lingerie

Sheer Fabrics................................................................................. 49

Straight

SINGER Service.................................................................................. 4

Special Discs

Primary Patterns........................................................................... 32

Removal and Replacement . 33
Special Purpose Foot, Applications
Stitch Length

Regulator . 15

...

.........................................................................................

...............................................................

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......................................................................... 30

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................................................................... 26

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...................................................................................... 76

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74—75

............................................................

.......................................

......

22—23

.........................................

90—92

14

. 22—23

73—76

75

29

60—61

53

42—50

96

Satin Stitch Adjustment................................................................ 29

Stitch Pattern Selector, Operation
Stitch Patterns

Combinations and Variations

Illustrations............................................................................79—80

Special Discs .

Stitch Width and Needle Position Selector

Combinations and Variations

Control of Width........................................................................... 34

Operation....................................................................................... 16

Straight Stitching

Equipment and Settings................................................................ 19

Seams......................................................................................22—24

Secondary Positions

Two Needles.................................................................................. 39

Tension Adjustments

Bobbin Thread............................................................................... 27

Needle Thread

Satin Stitching
Threading

Bobbin Case................................................................................... 13

Filler Cord..................................................................................... 45

Single Needle.................................................................................... 8

Two Needles................................................................................... 38

Throat Plate

Removal and Replacement........................................................... 18

Straight Stitch................................................................................ 19

Zigzag Stitch.................................................................................. 28

Top Stitching

Two Needles

Insertion......................................................................................... 37

Primary Patterns

Straight Stitching

Threading....................................................................................... 38

Variations and Combination Patterns

Illustrations............................................................................79—80

Winding a Bobbin..............................

Zigzag Stitching

Combinations and Variations . . . . . . . 36

Equipment.................................................................

Needle Positions . 35

Primary Patterns........................................................................... 31

Special Discs
Stitch Length Adjustment

Stitch Width Selector: Control of Width .... 34

Tension Adjustment...................................................................... 30

Two Needles.....................................:.... 40

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.

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32—33

......................................................

' . . 40

............................................

.......................................

......

............................................................

9—11

. 28

32—33

17
36

36

20

26
30

61

39

36

29

To all whom it may concern:

The improper placing or renewal of the trademark SINGER or
any other of the trademarks of The Singer Company (all of which are
duly Registered Trademarks) on any machine that has been repaired,
rebuilt, reconditioned, or altered in any way whatsoever outside a
SINGER factory or an authorized SINGER agency is forbidden.

For your protection

SINGER Sewing Machines are sold and serviced wherever you
see the famous SINGER and Red "S" Trademarks. When your
machine needs servicing call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE to
be sure of warranted SINGER parts and service. See address in
the telephone directory.