SINGER 431 User Manual

431

Convertible

Instructions for using

SINGER

Form 30-064 G / 1264 engl. Printed in Western Germany

* A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY

SLANT-O-MATIC

Convertible

.. the most versatile sewing machine ever built!

THE CONVERTIBLE 431

. . . represents the ultimate in sewing machine performance. With the purchase of the new SLANT-O-MATIC, you can take pride in owning

the finest sewing machine ever built. You'll marvel at its almost unbe lievable ease of operation . . . the remarkable services it performs. You'll delight in its perfect, beautiful stitching.

• World's first convertible with double-easy threading. Has built-in

threading chart, handy "drop-in" bobbin in front of needle!

• World's first convertible with slant needle and gear drive. Seeing is easier, sewing smoothest ever. No slipping or stalling.

• World's first convertible with built-in eye-level stitch chart . . . lets you "tune" the knob for whatever fancy stitch you want.

Add to these major developments in sewing machine design the following ADVANCED features, and you have a machine far ahead in design, unequalled in performance.

OTHER OUTSTANDING FEATURES ARE:

• CYLINDER BED simplifies sewing of articles of a curved or cylindrical nature — converts to flat bed with the push of a button.

• PERFECT STITCHING . . . straight and zigzag.

• NEEDLE CLAMP holds one or two regular needles — same or different sizes for exciting two needle stitching.

• AUTOMATIC THREAD CONTROL ensures a smooth flow of thread from spool to needle for uniform stitch setting.

• HINGED FACE PLATE, houses threading chart and swings open for easy access to oiling points.

• BUILT-IN MOTOR with worm wheel drive, no

belts required, excellent penetrating power when sewing heaviest materials without manual assistance. ,

• BUILT-IN LIGHT focused on sewing area.

• ALL MECHANISM completely enclosed.

• SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT.

• FLEXIBLE SEAM GUIDE.

• CLIP-ON TYPE calibrated throat plate . . . easy to remove and replace.

SUPERFINE CONTROL of stitch length ensures # COMPARTMENT for attachments and accessoperfect satin stitching. ries built into detachable cloth plate.

• HINGED BED EXTENSION for increased work area.

SINGER SERVICE

Wherever you go you will find expert, dependable SINGER* Service close at hand. SINGER is interested in helping you keep your SINGER Sewing Machine in top running condition. That is why you should always call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE if your machine ever requires adjustment or repair. Only from your SINGER SEWING CENTRE can you obtain the services of a trained SINGER repair man and warranted SINGER* parts.

EVERYTHING FOR THE WOMAN WHO SEWS

The answer to your sewipg needs is at your SINGER SEWING CENTRE. There you will find a wide choice of sewing aids, notions, sewing information and services. Look for the famous red "S" and SINGER trademarks on your SINGER SEWING CENTRE and the ever ready SINGER van. See phone book under SINGER SEWING

MACHINE CO. for address nearest you.

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE DETACHABLE CLOTH PLATE

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To detach cloth plate from machine, press button on machine bed and withdraw plate.

Replace cloth plate in same manner, locating two pins in plate with corresponding holes in machine

bed. Push cloth plate to right until it snaps in locked position.

See pages 81 to 86 for applications of cylinder bed feature.

NEEDLE AND THREAD SELECTION

The selection of thread should be based on the fabric to be stitched. The thread should blend with

the fabric in colour, fibre and size.

Silk and wool fabrics should be stitched with silk thread; cotton fabrics should be stitched with cotton or cotton mercerised thread, etc. The thread must be of a size that will imbed itself into the texture of the fabric. Thread that is too heavy for the fabric will remain on the surface and become weakened by friction and abrasion.

The selection of the needle should be based on both the fabric and thread being used. The eye of the needle must be large enough for the thread to pass freely through it. The blade of the needle must be fine enough not to mar the fabric with too large a puncture, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric without

binding or deflecting.

You will obtain best stitching results from your Sewing Machine if it is fitted with a SINGERS' Needle.

This machine uses needles

Catalogue 2020 (15X1).

Sizes 9, 11, 14, 16 and 18.

NEEDLES AND THREAD

For perfect stitching, select correct needle

and thread to correspond with fabric (see

page 6).

Be sure to use similar threads for both

needle and bobbin.

NEEDLE INSERTION

Raise the needle bar to highest point by

turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen the needle clamp screw. Insert needle upward into clamp as far as it will go, with

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the flat side of the needle to the back and the long groove toward you. Tighten needle clamp screw.

UPPER THREADING-SINGLE NEEDLE

Raise take-up lever to highest point. Place thread on spool pin and lead through threading points shown. Thread needle from front to back. Draw sufficient thread through eye of needle with which to start sewing.

WIND THE BOBBIN

Loosen stop motion wheel with right hand. Place bobbin on spindle. Pull out bobbin winder engaging

slide.

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WIND THE BOBBIN (Cont'd.)

A full bobbin will automatically release. Stop

machine and push in disengaging slide.

Hold end of thread and start machine.

Tighten stop motion wheel.

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THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Hold bobbin so that thread leads off in direction shown. Place bobbin in case. Guide thread into slot and under spring.

Draw thread into notch at end of spring, pulling off about 3 inches of thread across the bobbin. Close slide plate allowing thread to enter notch.

PRINCIPAL PARTS OF MACHINE 431

Stitch pattern

selector

Take-up lever

Face plate

Automatic

thread control

Needle thread

tension

Stitch chart

Special disc

Bobbin winder

stitch width léver

Hand wheel

Stitch length regulator

Throat plate

Slide plate

Cloth plate disengaging button

Reverse

STITCH LENGTH REGULATOR

Numerals on left side of indicator represent

number of stitches per inch.

Numerals on right side represent stitch length in

To release

millimeters.

The upper indented area of the indicator repre

sents stitch lengths above 20.

The lower indented area of the indicator allows the No. 6 stitch length setting to be "locked" in place when stitching folds, pleats or multiple layers

of heavy fabric.

Forward

To tighten

To set stitch length

• Release pointer by turning thumb nut to the

left.

• Position lever for desired stitch length.

• Tighten pointer against plate by turning thumb nut to the right.

Once the pointer has been positioned, reverse stitching is accomplished by raising the lever to its highest position. The No. 6 "locked" position must be unlocked for reverse stitching.

STITCH WIDTH AND NEEDLE POSITION SELECTOR

A Stitch width or needle position setting is necessary for both straight and zigzag stitching.

When used with a straight stitch setting, the lever places stitching in left, centre or right needle position

(see pages 19 and 20).

When used with a decorative stitch setting, the lever controls width of primary patterns and produces

variations of combination patterns (see pages 34 and 36).

To position, depress lever and slide il left or right to desired setting. Numerals indicate five positions

but intermediate settings may also be used.

STITCH PATTERN SELECTOR

(Set Stitch Width Lever at 3.)

Pull and select

All settings on the left of the plate are controlled by the outer knob.

Push (using right hand) — select desired setting and release.

All settings on the right of the plate are controlled by the inner knob.

Pull (using left hand) — select desired setting and release.

1. Push

2. Select (A to J)

3. Release

1. Pull

2. Select (K to S)

3. Release

Do not make selector adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.

THROAT PLATE

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

To remove the throat plate

To replace the throat plate

Raise presser bar. Turn hand wheel until needle bar is at its highest point. Open slide plate. Place thumb under front end of throat plate and lift plate from machine.

Place throat plate in position over two clamping pins and press plate down until it snaps in locked position. Then close slide plate.

STRAIGHT STITCHING

CENTRE NEEDLE POSITION AK 3

Needle Position Lever at 3 (Centre Position). General Purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot.

Use general purpose throat plate and presser foot for all utility sewing, long straight seams, etc., and

where there is occasion to alternate between straight and zigzag stitching.

STRAIGHT STITCH THROAT PLATE AND

PRESSER FOOT

Use the straight stitch throat plate and presser

foot where fabric and sewing procedure require

close control . . . for precision stitching of curved and scalloped edges, top stitching, edge stitching,

etc.

For best results, this equipment should be used when stitching sheer and filmy fabrics, knits and tricots (particularly synthetics) and all soft spongy materials.

STRAIGHT STITCHING

SECONDARY POSITIONS

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Set Selector at AK. Needle Position Lever at 1, 2, 4 or 5. General Purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot.

To meet special requirements a line of stitching may be placed to the left or to the right of centre. Lever setting 1 locates stitching to the extreme left; lever setting 5 locates it to the extreme right. Inter mediate left and right positions result when settings 2 and 4 are used.

The general purpose throat plate and presser foot must be used with left and right needle positions. Do not make any lever adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.

PREPARE TO SEW

Hold needle thread lightly with left hand. Turn hand wheel so that needle enters plate and brings

up bobbin thread.

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Pull end of bobbin thread through plate and place both needle and bobbin threads diagonally under

presser foot.

SEWING A SEAM

Set stitch regulator for stitch length desired. Position needle into fabric about V2 inch from edge and

lower presser foot. Raise stitch regulator to reverse.

Back stitch to edge of fabric for reinforcement. Lower regulator for forward stitching of seam. Raise

stitch regulator, 22

SEWING A SEAM (Cont'd.)

Back stitch to reinforce end of seam, and lower regulator to forward stitching position. With take-up lever at highest point, raise presser foot and remove fabric.

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot. Fabrics of unusual texture and weave, filmy sheers, crepes, tricots, etc., require support while being

stitched.

For such fabrics, use the straight stitch throat plate and presser foot, and apply gentle tension to the

seam by holding the fabric in front and at the back of the presser foot as illustrated.

PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS

To decrease pressure, turn thumb screw upward.

To increase pressure, turn screw downward.

Decrease

Pressure is the force the presser foot exerts on fabric while it is

being stitched.

. Smooth, even handling of several thicknesses of fabric results when

pressure is correctly regulated.

Too light a pressure will result in irregular feeding which affects

both quality of stitch and evenness of seams.

Too heavy a pressure not only affects stitch and seam quality but

will mar smooth surfaces and pile fabrics.

Surface finish, as well as the weight and texture of the fabric, must

be considered in determining the amount of pressure needed.

Increase

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

STRAIGHT STITCHING

Needle thread tension too tight — correct by setting dial to lower number.

A perfectly locked stitch results with the upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin threads are drawn equally into fabric.

Needle thread tension too loose — correct by setting dial to higher number.

BOBBIN THREAD TENSION

STRAIGHT STITCHING

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Bobbin thread tension too tight — correct by turning screw in direction indicated.

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Bobbin thread tension too loose

— correct by turning screw in

direction indicated.

Insert for tension screwdriver

A perfectly locked stitch results with the upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin

threads are drawn equally into fabric.

ZIGZAG STITCHING EQUIPMENT

General purpose presser foot.

Special purpose presser foot.

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