SINGER 15-90 User Manual

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SEWING MACHINES

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR USING

SINGER*

REVERSIBLE FEED

LOCK STITCH, FOR FAMILY USE

WEtUitiNG

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^SINGER '

THE SINGER MANÜFACTORING GO.

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THE IMPORTANCE OF USING

SINGER*

LUBRICANTS FOR

YOUR ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE

it

The Best is the Cheapest”

Use SINGER Sewing Machine

Oil on Machine

Knowing from many years* experience
the great importance of using good oil,
SINGER sells an extra quality sewing
machine oil, in cans, especially prepared

for sewing machines.

TO ALL WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:

The improper placing or renewal

of the Trade Mark SINGER’ ’ or any

other of the Trade Marks of The Singer

Manufacturing Company (all of which are
duly Registered Trade Marks) on any
machine that has been repaired» rebuilt,
reconditioned, or altered in any way
whatsoever outside of a SINGER factory or
an authorized SINGER agency is forbidden.

20316

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

SINGER

15*

SEWING MACHINES

(WITH ATTACHMENTS)

REVERSIBLE FEED

OSCILLATING SHUTTLE

FOR FAMILY USE

THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY

*A Trade Mark of THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY

Copyright (c) 1951 by The Singer Manufacturing Company

to

8

DESCRIPTION

These SINGER family sewing machines will give

you practically life-time service.

Machine 15-88 is intended for operation by foot

power and is regularly equipped with a treadle stand.

Machine 15-89 has a hand driving attachment

and is provided with a wooden base and cover. This
portable outfit can be conveniently carried from
place to place as desired.

Each machine has an oscillating shuttle on a hori
zontal axis and makes the lock stitch. Both machines
have reverse feeding mechanism which enables you
to sew either in a forward or backward direction,
making it easy to back tack and to fasten the ends

of seams.

In addition to plain sewing, a great variety of
pleasing effects such as hemming, binding, edge
stitching, shirring, ruffling, etc., can be produced

with the aid of the attachments furnished with each
machine. These attachments and other popular
SINGER Fashion Aids will enable you to obtain the
much desired tailored appearance of professionally-

made garments and to add new fashion touches or
finishes demanded by swiftly changing styles at a
fraction of the cost of ready-made garments.

READ THIS BOOK CAREFULLY TO GET

THE UTMOST SERVICE

FROM YOUR SEWING MACHINE

SINGER SERVICE

Now that you have purchased your new SINGER,
we do not want you to feel that your relations
with us have come to an end. You are cordially
invited to visit your SINGER Shop at any time for
assistance in your sewing problems. You will be
most welcome.

We hope, too, that you will make the SINGER
Shop your headquarters for sewing supplies and
service. Only there or through authorized bonded
SINGER representatives can you secure warranted

SINGER Sewing Machine Oil, needles, belts, parts,

etc., so important in getting the best results from
your machine. And remember, only an authorized
SINGER representative should be allowed to touch

your machine when repairs or adjustments are required.

World-wide SINGER Service has no equal.

Use it!

TO OPERATE THE TREADLE MACHINE

(See Fig. 3)

Raise the presser foot B by means of the presser

bar lifter C to prevent injury to the foot B and feed A.

Fig. 3. Front View of the Machine

Hold the balance wheel D with the left hand and,

with the right hand, loosen the stop motion screw E
to release the balance wheel from the stitching
mechanism.

Place your feet upon the treadle and, with the

right hand, turn the balance wheel over toward you.

Continue the balance wheel in motion by an alter
nate pressure of heel and toe on the treadle, until a
regular and easy movement is acquired. Then tighten
the stop motion screw E to connect the balance wheel
with the stitching mechanism.

Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot B and

lower the foot by means of the presser bar lifter C
and operate the machine, without thread, until you

have become accustomed to guiding the material.

TO OPERATE THE HAND MACHINE

Place the lever H

of the hand driving
attachment in the
socket G and turn
the hinged finger F

back between the

spokes of the balance

wheel, as shown.

6

(See Fig. 4)

Fig. 4. End View of Machine 15-89

Showing Hand Driving Attachment

Raise the presser foot B, Fig. 3 by means of the
presser bar lifter C, Fig. 3 to prevent injury to the
foot B and feed A, Fig. 3.

Turn the lever H of the hand driving attachment
over from you, continuing the motion thus begun
until a regular and easy movement is acquired. Then
tighten the stop motion screw E, Fig. 3 to connect
the balance wheel with the stitching mechanism.

Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot
B, Fig. 3, lower the foot by means of the presser bar

lifter C, Fig. 3 and operate the machine, without

thread, until you have become accustomed to guid

ing the material with the left hand.

NOTE: To release the lever H from the socket G,

withdraw the plunger J and pull out the lever.

CHART SHOWING THE RELATIONSHIP OF

TYPES OF FABRICS,

THREAD AND NEEDLE SIZES AND

MACHINE STITCH SETTINGS

MACHINE

TYPES OF

FAB BIGS

THREAD

SIZES

NEEDLE

SIZES

STITCH

SETTINGS

Filmy materials comparable

to Net, Marquisette,
Chiffion, Silk, Organdie,
Ninon, Silk Velvet, Nylon
Sheers.

Sheer materials comparable

to Lawn, Dimity, Voile,
Batiste, Rayon Sheer,
Rayon Crepe, Silk Crepe.

Lightweight materials com

parable to Gingham, Cham­bray. Sheer Wool Crepe,
Taffeta.

Medium lightweight mater

ials comparable to Poplin,

Pique, Percale, Chintz.
Faille, Bengaline, Wool
Flannel, Wool Crepe, W'ool

Jersey.

Medium heavy materials

comparable to Crash, Gab

ardine, Rep, Corduroy,

Velveteen, Coatings, Suit

ings.

Heavy materials compar

able to Sailcloth, Sturdy

Denim, Ticking, Drill

Cloth, Heavy Coating.

100 Cotton
00 and 000

Silk

80 to 100

Cotton

0 Silk

50 Mercerized

60 to 80

Cotton

A Silk

50 Mercerized

50 to 70

Cotton

A or В Silk

50 Mercerized

40 to 50

Cotton
C Silk

Heavy Duty

Mercerized

30 to 40 Cotton

20to24 Cotton

D Silk

9

11 12-15

14

14

16

18
19

18 or 19

INSIDE
SEAMS

15-20

12

12

10

8

TOP

STITCHING

20-30

15-20

15-18

15-16

12

10

40 to 60 Linen

Very heavy materials com

parable to overcoating.

20 to 24 Cotton

E Silk

21

6

8

Mercerized

Plastic materials.

Cotton

11

10 12

When ordering needles, always specify “Class and

Variety 15x1 ’ ’and state the size and quan ti ty required.

TO SET THE NEEDLE

Select the cor

rect needle ac

cording to the

table on page 7.
Be sure that the
needle is not
blunt or bent.
Raise the needle
bar to its highest
position and

loosen the thumb

screw K in the
needle clamp.
Push the needle

with its flat side

to the left up

into the needle

clamp as far as
it will go, then
tighten the
thumb screw.

8

Eieoio

Fig. 5. Setting the Needle

UPPER THREADING

(See Fig. 6 on the Following Page)

Raise the take-up lever 5 to its highest point.

Place the spool of thread on spool pin at top of

machine
Pass the thread through the thread guide 1
Down, under and from back to front between the

tension discs 2 (the thread guard L guiding the

thread between the discs)

Hold the spool tightly and pull the thread against

the take-up spring 4 until it enters the retain

ing fork 3

Pass the thread from back to front through the

hole 5 in the take-up lever

Down through the guide 6 on the face plate
Into the guide 7 on the needle clamp

From right to left through the eye 8 of the needle.

Draw about two inches of thread through the eye

of the needle with which to commence sewing.

9

Fig. 6. Upper Threading

10

TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN

Raise the take-up lever 5, Fig. 6 to its highest point.

Withdraw the bed slide plate. Reach down with
the left hand and open the bobbin case latch M and
lift out the bobbin case. Release the latch and re
move the bobbin from the bobbin case.

Fig. 7. Removing the Bobbin Case

TO WIND THE BOBBIN

(See Fig. 8 on the Following Page)

Hold the balance wheel D with the left hand and,

with the right hand, loosen the stop motion screw E
to release the balance wheel from the stitching
mechanism.

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle as

far as it will go, having the small pin enter the
hole in the side of the bobbin.

11

Place the spool of thread on the spool pin 1
Pass the thread to the right between the tension

discs 2

Up and to the left through one of the holes in the

left side of the bobbin 3, from the inside.

Fig. 8. Winding the Bobbin

The end of the thread must be held by the hand

until a few coils are wound and then should be

broken off.

Press down on the bobbin and the bobbin winder

latch will drop down and hold the bobbin winder

pulley against the hub of the balance wheel.
Then operate the machine the same as for sewing.
When sufficient thread has been wound upon the

bobbin, the bobbin winder is automatically released

from the balance wheel.

Then tighten the stop motion screw E.

12

If the pressure of the bobbin winder pulley against

the hub of the balance wheel is insufficient for wind
ing the bobbin, press down the bobbin winder until
the latch N, Fig. 9 drops down and holds it, then
loosen the adjusting screw O, Fig. 9. With the fore
finger, push back the upper end of the slotted plate
P as far as it will go, as shown in Fig. 9, and at the
same time press the bobbin winder pulley against
the hub of the balance wheel, then tighten the
adjusting screw O.

£19072

Fig. 9. Adjustment of Bobbin Windek

If the thread does not wind evenly on the bobbin,

loosen the screw which holds the tension bracket

2, Fig. 8 in position on the bed of the machine and

slide the tension bracket to the right or left, as may
be required, then tighten the screw.

Bobbins can also be wound while the machine

is sewing.

TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE

Hold the
bobbin so that

the thread will

unwind in the

direction

shown in

13

Fig. 10.

EI9007

Fig. 10

Hold the bobbin
case as shown in
Fig. 10, and place
the bobbin into it.

Pull the thread into

the slot 1, under the

tension spring 2 and
into the slot 3 at the

end of the spring.

14

TO REPLACE THE BOBBIN CASE

Hold the bobbin case by the latch and place it

on the stud T of the shuttle body with the position
finger S opposite the notch at the top of the shuttle

race.

£19096

Fig. 13. Bobbin Case Threaded and Replaced

Release the latch and press the bobbin case back
until the latch enters the groove in the stud. Allow
about three inches of thread to hang free from the
bobbin case and close the bed slide plate.

TO PREPARE FOR SEWING

Hold the end of the
needle thread with the
left hand and turn

the balance wheel

over toward you
until the needle goes
down and up again and
the thread take-up
lever 5, Fig. 16 is at its

highest point. Pull up
the needle thread and

15

bobbin thread will come

with it, as shown in

Fig. 14.

Fig. 15

Threads in Position to

Commence Sewing

Fig. 14

Drawing Up the Bobbin Threat

Lay both threads back
under the presser foot diag
onally across the feed, as
shown in Fig. 15, to the right

or left, depending upon
which side of the needle the
material is to be located, so

that when the presser foot

is lowered, the threads will

be firmly held between the

feed and the presser foot.

TO COMMENCE SEWING

Be sure to have the
thread take-up lever
5 at its highest point.

Place the material
beneath the presser
foot B, lower the foot
by means of the presser
bar lifter C and com
mence to sew, turning

16

the balance wheel over
toward you.

Never pull the ma
terial along when
stitching. This is liable
to bend the needle.
Guide the material only.

Never operate the
machine without cloth
under presser foot.

Fig, 16

The slide over the bobbin case should be kept
closed when the machine is in operation.

The balance wheel must always turn over toward
the operator.

17

TO TURN A CORNER

Stop the machine when the needle is commencing
its upward stroke. Raise the presser foot and turn
the work as desired, using the needle as a pivot,

then lower the presser foot.

BASTING

The longest stitch, No. 6 on the stitch indicator,

adjusted by lever X, Fig. 17, is satisfactory
for basting. These basting stitches can be easily
removed by clipping every sixth stitch and with
drawing the long continuous thread.

Machine basting is firmer, more even and much

quicker than hand basting.

TO SEW BIAS SEAMS

Use a shorter stitch when sewing bias or curved
seams to increase the elasticity of the seam and
to prevent seam failure under strain.

No change in tensions is required.

TO REMOVE THE WORK

Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever

5, Fig. 16 at its highest position. Raise the presser

foot, draw the fabric back and to the left, and sever
the threads on the thread cutter U, Fig. 16. Place
the ends of the threads under the presser foot, as
shown in Fig. 15.

18

TO REGULATE THE LENGTH OF STITCH

The machine is adjustable to make from 6 to 30
stitches per inch, as indicated by the numerals on
the stitch indicator plate

W.

Fig. 17. Showing Lever for Reversing Direction

OF Feed and Regulating Length of Stitch

The number of stitches to the inch that the ma
chine is set to make is indicated by the number

which is in line with the upper side of the stitch
regulating lever X.

To change the length of stitch, loosen the thumb

screw Y and move it to the bottom of the slot. Then
move the stitch regulating lever X until its upper
side is in line with the number of the desired length
of stitch. Now move the thumb screw Y until the
stitch regulating plate touches the lever X, then
tighten the thumb screw

Y.

The machine will now make the indicated number
of stitches to the inch in either a forward or reverse
direction, depending on whether the lever X is at

its lowest or highest position.

19

TO REGULATE THE DIRECTION OF FEED

To feed the material from you, push down the

stitch regulating lever X Fig. 17 as far as it will go.

To feed the material toward you, raise the stitch

regulating lever X as high as it will go.

The direction of feeding can be reversed at any
point of a seam without removing the work from
the machine.

The reverse feed makes it easy to do 'Tack tack

ing” and to fasten the ends of seams.

TO REGULATE PRESSURE ON

PRESSER FOOT

For ordinary sewing, the pressure of the presser
foot on the material seldom requires changing. Heavy
materials require more pressure than light weight
materials. The pressure should be only heavy enough
to prevent the material from rising with the needle
and to enable the feed to move the work along
evenly. To increase the pressure, turn the thumb
screw V, Fig. 16 clockwise or downward. To lighten

the pressure, turn the thumb screw so that it screws
upvrard.

SINGER Needles should be used

in SINGER Machines

These Needles and their Containers

are marked wi th the

Company’s Trade Mark "SIMANCO.*” i

Need I es in Containers marked

"FOR SINGER MACHINES”

are NOT SINGER made needles. 2

20

THREAD TENSIONS

For ordinary stitching, the needle and bobbin

threads should be locked in the center of the thick

ness of the material, thus:

Fig. 18. Perfect Stitching

If the tension on the needle thread is too tight, or
if that on the bobbin thread is too loose, the needle
thread will lie straight along the upper surface of
the material, thus:

---

Enm

Fig. 19. Tight Needle Thread Tension

If the tension on the bobbin thread is too tight,

or if that on the needle thread is too loose, the bobbin
thread will lie straight along the under side of the
material, thus:

m.

E1I3I9

Fig. 20. Loose Needle Thread Tension

TO REGULATE THE

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

The tension on the

needle thread can be
regulated only when
the presser foot is
down.

The numerals “0 to

9’’ on the dial C, Fig.
21 indicate the dif
ferent degrees of ten-

sion that can be

obtained. The num
bers do not denote the

size of thread or ounces

of tension.

Fig. 21. Needle Thread Tension

21

When the tension has been correctly set for aver

age sewing, note the number at the indicator line Q,
so that the tension may be reset should it be altered

for special work or change in size of thread.

To increase the tension, turn the thumb screw A

gradually to the right (clockwise) until the required
tension is obtained. Each higher number denotes
increased tension.

To decrease the tension, turn the thumb screw
A gradually to the left (counter-clockwise) until the

required tension is obtained. Each lower number
denotes less tension.

TO REGULATE THE

BOBBIN THREAD TENSION

The tension on the bobbin thread is regulated by

the screw R, Fig. 11 in the tension spring on the

outside of the bobbin case. To increase the tension,
turn the screw R over to the right. To decrease

the tension, turn this screw over to the left.

When the tension on the bobbin thread has been

once properly adjusted, it is seldom necessary to
change it, as a correct stitch can usually be obtained

by varying the tension on the needle thread.

22

TO DISASSEMBLE THE

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

NOTE: The needle thread tension, Figs. 21
to 23 inclusive, is correctly adjusted at the fac
tory to produce the complete range of tensions
with one revolution of the thumb nut A,

There should be no necessity for removing or

taking this tension apart. However if, for any

reason, it becomes necessary to remove the
tension, proceed as follows:

Turn the thumb nut A, Fig. 22 away from you
(toward the left) until it stops at “0” on the num-

A B c s F

DF2

M P

Fig. 22, Needle Thread Tension Disassembled

bered dial C. Press in the dial to disengage the pin
B in the thumb nut and remove the thumb nut,

£190St

dial, stop washer D, tension spring F, indicator G,
the two tension discs H, thread guard plate L, and
the tension releasing pin J, as shown in Fig. 22. To
remove the pin J from the stud N, take off the face
plate and tilt it so that the pin will drop out.

23

TO REASSEMBLE THE

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

Replace the face plate, insert the tension releasing
pin in the stud, place the thread guard plate on the

Fig. 23. Reassembling and Replacing the Tension

stud, being sure that the lug M, Fig. 22 engages

the short recess P to prevent the plate from turn
ing on the stud. Next, place the two tension discs
H on the stud, having the flat thread-bearing sides
of the discs together. Replace the indicator G with
the large open side facing end of stud so that the
plus and minus signs will be readily seen from a
sewing position as shown in Fig. 23. Insert the ten
sion spring F in the indicator so that the first half
turn F2 of this spring will straddle the lower half of
the tension stud. Guide the stop washer D onto the
stud so that the extension S will be above the ten
sion stud as shown in Fig. 23.

NOTE; If the
spring and stop
washer are in cor

rect position, the

extension will clear

the first

half­coil of the spring,
as shown in

Fig. 24.

Next place the

numbered dial on

the stud so that the

Fig. 24

£ /90*8

numeral 2 is oppo

24

site the stop washer extension S, then push

the dial to compress the spring so that the
thumb nut can be turned onto the stud,
carefully guiding the pin in the thumb nut into
one of the holes in the numbered dial. Lower
the presser bar and turn the thumb nut

A to the

left until it stops at “0.” Thread the tension and
pull the thread through the tension discs to test the
amount of tension at the position. At this point
there should be a barely perceptible pull on the
thread to indicate that there is a minimum tension
which gradually increases with the turn of the thumb
nut to the right, providing a full range of tensions
from light to heavy within one revolution of the
thumb nut. If the pull is too strong for a minimum
tension, press in the numbered dial to disengage the

pin in the thumb nut from the dial and reset the pin
in one of the holes to the

left of the previous setting.

This resetting of the pin will produce less tension at

zero. On the other hand, should there be insufficient
tension at zero, press in the dial and reset the pin
in one of the holes to the right of the previous set
ting. Repeat this process until the desired minimum
tension is obtained.

If Correct Stitching is Not Obtained:

If the bobbin thread tension has been disturbed,

or a correct stitch cannot be obtained without a

very heavy or very light needle thread tension, then
the following procedure is recommended:

Using No. 50 thread in the needle and on the bob
bin, adjust the needle thread tension as instructed
above. Then turn the tension thumb nut to “4” and,
with two thicknesses of thin material in the machine,
adjust the bobbin thread tension, as instructed on

page 21, until the stitch is correctly locked in the

material as shown in Fig. 18.

A wide range of materials and threads can now

be accommodated without further adjustment of

the bobbin thread tension.

25

TO OIL THE MACHINE

If the machine is used continuously, it should be
oiled daily. If moderately used, an occasional oiling
is sufficient.

Apply one drop of oil at each of the places indicated

by the unlettered arrows in Figs. 25 and 27 to 29.

Draw to the left the bed slide plate, and after

removing the lint and dust which may have accumu
lated (see instructions on pages 28, 29 and 30),

apply oil to the shuttle race A, Fig. 30. The slide
should then be closed.

26

Loosen the thumb screw in the round cover plate
at the back of the machine, turn the plate upward
and fasten by tightening the screw. Turn the bal
ance wheel over toward you until the connecting

Fig. 26. Oiling Points at the Back of the Machine

rod Z, Fig. 26 is at its highest position. Then apply
a few drops of oil through the hole in the top of the
machine, to the wick which is retained in the cap
of the connecting rod, as shown in Fig. 26. Also
oil the other moving parts inside, turn the cover
nlate down and fasten it as before.

27

Loosen the screw A2, Fig. 27

near the upper end of the face
plate, raise the plate and slip
it off over the head of the
screw. Apply one drop of oil
at each of the places indicated
by the unlettered arrows in
Fig. 27, then replace the face

plate and fasten it as before.

Fig. 27. End View

“Showing Oiling Points

Apply a drop of
oil at each of the
oil holes in the hand

driving attachment,

as shown by arrows

in Fig. 28.

Fig. 28. Oiling Points in

Hand Driving Attachment

28

When the machine is used on a foot power stand,
to reach the parts underneath the bed of the ma
chine, press the belt shifter to the left and operate

£/9096

Fig. 29. Oiling Points in Base of Machine

the treadle meanwhile until the belt is released,
then turn the machine back on its hinges. Apply
one drop of oil at each of the places indicated by
arrows in Fig. 29.

Also lubricate each of the bearing points in the
stand.

Machine Working Heavily;

If the machine runs hard after standing idle for

some time, use a little kerosene in the oiling places,
run the machine rapidly, then wipe clean and oil.

To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism:

After considerable use, the stitch forming mechan

ism in the bed of the machine may become clogged
with lint and this may interfere with the perfect
operation of the machine.

29

Occasionally remove the shuttle from the machine,
as instructed below and remove any lint, etc., which
has accumulated in the machine.

TO REMOVE THE SHUTTLE

Draw to the left the bed slide plate. Turn the
balance wheel over toward you until the needle is

Fig. 30. Showing Position of Shuttle for

Removal from Machine

at its highest point and the point of the shuttle is
at the position shown in Fig. 30.

Remove the bobbin case and bobbin. Take out

the thumb screw D, Fig. 30, also the spring
C, Fig. 30 and the shuttle race back B, Figs. 30

and 31. The shuttle A, Figs. 30 and 31 may now
be easily removed and the parts cleaned.

30

TO REPLACE THE SHUTTLE

See that the needle is at its highest point. Replace

the shuttle with its point A in the position shown

£/9033

Fig. 31. Shuttle and Paets Removed from Machine

in Fig. 31, then replace the other parts in the order
illustrated in Fig. 31. Replace and tighten the
thumb screw D. Replace the bobbin and bobbin
case and close the bed slide plate.

31

SEWING SUGGESTIONS

Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by;

(1) Improper Size of Needle for Thread and Material.

See page 7.

(2) Needle Bent.
(3) Pulling of Material when Stitching.
(4) Needle Striking Improperly Fastened Presser Foot

or Attachments.

(5) Crossing Too Thick Seams with Too Small a Needle.

Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by:

(1) A Knot in the Thread.

(2) Improper Threading. See page 9.
(3) Upper Tension Too Tight. See page 20.
(4) Needle Set Incorrectly. See page 8.

(5) Needle Blunt or Bent.
(6) Thread Too Coarse for Needle. See page 7.

(7) Roughened Hole in Throat Plate.
(8) Improper Arrangement of Threads to Commence

Sewing. See page 15.

Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by:

(1) Improper Threading of the Bobbin Case.

See page 13.

(2) Bobbin Thread Tension Too Tight. See page 21.

Skipping of Stitches Might be Caused by;

(1) Improper Setting of Needles. See page 8.

(2) Needle Blunt or Bent.

(3) Needle Too Small for Thread. See page 7.

Belt Tension:

The belt should be just tight enough to keep from
slipping. If too loose, remove the hook at one end,
shorten the belt and rejoin.

Free Instruction for using the machine is gladly

given at any SINGER Shop.

32

DARNING OR EMBROIDERING

Turn the machine back on its hinges. Unscrew as

far as possible the thumb screw B, Fig. 32 which
is located in the lower end of the slot of the feed

A B

Fig. 32. Adjustment for Darning or Embroidering

lifting crank A, Fig. 32. The feed is thus rendered
inoperative and will not interfere with the free

movement of the work. Bring the machine forward

into place.

Move the stitch regulating lever X, Fig. 17 to

its neutral position in the center of the slot at the

front of the machine.

Remove the presser foot and let down the presser

bar lifter C, Fig. 16 to restore the tension on the
needle thread which is released when the lifter is raised.

Draw up the bobbin thread as instructed on

page 15.

When darning
flat work, it is
advisable to use
embroidery
hoops to hold
the work.

Place the work
in the machine,
having the un
worn part near
the hole under

the needle. Com

mence the darn

ing by making a
line of stitches

across the hole a

little longer than

the width of the

hole. Continue ma

king parallel lines

33

K "'' I

-■'W:- i

Fig. 33. Darning in Process

of stitches across the
and forward and at

hole, moving the work backward

the same time gradually moving

the work side-

-r-.= -/-"v"i wise until the
hole is covered

Cf with lines of

; stitches running

".crj across the hole.

:g ? Then commence

; as before and

T ; move the work

, lengthwise of the

\ hole until the

stitches across

2 the hole are

V; completely cov-

ered and the

£!2M'-. darn is finished.

Fig. 34. Darning Finished

34

When you have finished the darning or embroidery,
raise the presser bar lifter and replace the presser
foot. Turn the machine back on its hinges and move

the thumb screw B, Fig. 32 down to the bottom

of the slot of the feed lifting crank A, Fig. 32 and

make sure that the thumb screw is firmly tightened.
Bring the machine forward into place, return the
stitch regulating lever X, Fig. 17 to its original posi

tion and the machine is ready for regular stitching.

Stockings and socks, underwear, etc., can be

more conveniently darned on the machine with the
SINGER Darner which can be purchased at any
SINGER Shop or from any SINGER Salesman.

SINGER Needles should be used

in SINGER Machines

These Needles and their Containers

are marked with the

Company’s Trade Mark “SIMANCO.*” i

Needles in Containers marked

“FOR SINGER MACHINES”

are NOT SINGER made needles. 2

35

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR USING

THE ATTACHMENTS

36

THE FOOT HEMMER

The foot hemmer may be used for hemming the
edge of the material, making hemmed and felled
seams and for hemming and sewing on lace in one
operation.

e/bobff

Fig. 35. Foot Hemmer

To Attach the Foot Hemmer:

Raise the needle to its highest point, remove the
presser foot and attach the foot hemmer to the
presser bar in place of the presser foot.

Pull up the bobbin thread as instructed on page 15.

To Start the Hem at the Edge;

(1) Fold the edge of the material over about }/s inch

at the starting point for a distance of about
one inch.

(2) Place the material in the foot hemmer with the

folded edge at the back of the hemmer leading

at an angle to the right.

37

(3) Draw the material toward you through the hem-

mer, at the same time folding the edge a second
time. Continue to draw the material through
the hemmer until the edge is just under the
needle.

Fig. 36. Hemming Edge of Material

(4) Place the needle and bobbin threads under the

foot hemmer, lower the hemmer and commence

to sew, assisting the starting of the hem by

slightly pulling the threads from the back while

sewing.

(5) Keep the mouth of the foot hemmer full to pro

duce a smooth, even hem.

38

TO MAKE A HEMMED SEAM WITH THE

FOOT HEMMER

(1) When making this seam,
the garment must first be
fitted and the edge of the ma
terial trimmed, allowing for

about yg inch seam. Insert

the two edges of the material,
right sides together, in the

hemmer in the same manner

as a single hem as shown in
Fig. 37. If the material is
bulky, place the edge of the

Fig. 37

Making a Hemmed Seam

(First Operation)

upper piece of material about

ys inch to the left of the

edge of the under piece.

(2) The free edge of the hem

med seam may be stitched

flat to the garment, if
desired. To do this, open

the work out flat, wrong

side up, then insert the
hem in the scroll of the
hemmer, holding the edge

of the hem in position

while it is being stitched.

If the seam is stitched
flat to the garment, one

row of stitching is visible

on the right side.

Fig. 38

Making a Hemmed Seam

(Second Operation)

39

TO MAKE A FELLED SEAM WITH THE

FOOT HEMMER

(1) Place the right
sides of the material to
gether, having the edge

of the upper piece about
3/8 iJich to the left of the
edge of the under piece»

Stitch the two pieces to
gether, using the hemmer
as a presser foot. Guide
both pieces by the pro

Fig. 39. Making a Felled Seam

(First Operation)

(2) Open the work
out flat, wrong side up,
and hem the free edge

of the seam, stitching it
flat to the garment as

jecting toe of the hem
mer, as shown in Fig. 39.

shown in Fig. 40.

F;g. 10. Making a Felled Seam

(Second Operation)

40

TO НЕМ AND SEW ON LACE

IN ONE OPERATION

(1) Start the hem in the regular way.
(2) Hold the hem in position with the needle.

Fig. 41. Hemming and Sewing on Lace

(3) Raise the presser bar and insert the edge of the

lace in the slot of the hemmer and back under
the hemmer.

(4) Lower the presser bar and commence sewing,

catching the edge of the lace with the needle.

(5) Guide the hem with the right hand and the lace

with the left, being careful not to stretch the

lace as it enters the hemmer.

41

ADJUSTABLE HEMMER

To Make Hems from 3/16 to 15/16 Inch Wide

(1) Attach the adjustable hemmer to the presser bar

in place of the presser foot.

(2) Pull up the bobbin thread, as instructed on page 15.

Fig. 42. Showing How Adjustable Hemmer is Used

FOR Making Hems up to 15/16 Inch Wide

(3) Loosen the thumb screw on the hemmer and move

the scale until the pointer registers with the
number of the desired width of hem, No. 1 indi
cating the narrowest hem and No. 8, the widest,
then tighten the thumb screw.

(4) Place the cloth in the hemmer and draw it back

and forth until the hem is formed, as shown
in Fig. 42.

(5) Draw the end of the hem back under the needle,

lower the presser bar and commence to sew.

(6) Guide sufficient cloth into the hemmer to turn the

hem properly.

42

ADJUSTABLE HEMMER

To Make Hems Wider than 15/16 Inch

(1) Loosen the thumb screw on the hemmer, move the

scale to the right as far as it will go, then swing
it toward you, as shown in Fig. 43, and tighten
the thumb screw.

(2) Fold and crease the desired width of hem.

Fig. 43. Showing How Adjustable Hemmer is Used

FOR Making Hems Wider than 15/16 Inch

(3) Place the fold under the extension at the right

of the hemmer and the edge into the folder, as
shown in Fig. 43.

(4) Draw the end of the hem back under the needle,

lower the presser bar and commence to sew.

(5) Guide the cloth to keep the hem flat.

43

MULTIPLE SLOTTED BINDER

This multiple slotted Binder will apply unfolded

bias binding ^inch in width and commercial folded

binding in sizes if 2y 3) 4 and 5 to the seams or to

the edges of garments. These sizes of folded binding
are 34, /4, A and inch in width, respectively,

and are fed through slots of corresponding sizes in
the binder scroll. See Fig. 44. Binding may be
purchased in a variety of materials and colors.

For convenience in determining the correct width

of unfolded binding inch), this measurement
is marked on the Binder, as shown in Fig. 44.

The two upright guide pins shown in Fig. 44 elim

inate manual guiding of the binding.

ADJUSTING

LUG

SCROLL FOR

UNFOLDED

OUTSIDE
SLOTS FOR
DIFFERENT
WIDTHS OF

FOLDED
BINDING

CENTER SLOT

OF SCROLL

Fig. 44. Multiple Slotted Binder 160359

EDGE GUIDE

FOR PIPING

ONLY

BINDING

B/BI6S

The wide range of bindings that can be applied
with this Binder makes it useful for a large variety
of work. It will be found particularly advantageous
for making children’s wear, lingerie, summer dresses,
and other dainty articles which call for the nar
rower bindings.

44

As two different widths of binding of contrasting
color can be fed through the Binder at the same
time, attractive binding and piping effects can be
produced in one operation.

TO ATTACH THE BINDER

Raise the needle to its highest position, then at

tach the Binder to the presser bar in place of the

presser foot.

See that the needle enters the center of the

needle hole.

TO INSERT THE BINDING

IN THE BINDER

Cut all binding to a long point

to the left, as shown in Fig. 45.

Folded Bias Binding must be

inserted in the slot or slots of cor
responding sizes. See

Fig. 48.

Unfolded or Raw Edge Bias

Binding must be inserted in the

open end of the scroll. See

Fig. 46.

After inserting the pointed end of the binding in
the Binder, push it through until the full width of
the binding is under the needle.

Guide the binding by means of the two upright
pins, as shown in Figs. 46 and 48.

45

TO INSERT THE GARMENT

IN THE BINDER

Place the edge to be bound as far to the right as

it will go in the center slot of the scroll, as shown in
Fig. 46, and draw it back under the binder foot.

Fig. 46. Binding with Unfolded Binding

Lower the Binder by means of the presser foot

lifter, and commence to sew. Keep the material

well within the center slot of the scroll so that the
edge will be caught in the binding.

TO ADJUST THE BINDER

To bring the inner edge of the binding closer to

the stitching, move the scroll C2, Fig. 46 to the
right by means of the lug B2, Fig. 46. This is
the usual adjustment when binding straight edges.

When binding curves, move the scroll to the left

to bring the inner edge of the binding farther from

the stitching and allow for the sweep of the curve.

46

PIPED EDGE

To produce a piped edge on garments, move the
lug B2, Fig. 47 to the left to bring the stitching
about midway of the folded binding.

Fig. 47

Position of Garment and Binding when Piping Edges

Crease the raw edges of the garment toward the
wrong side about 3^ inch, and insert the folded
edge, raw edges uppermost, into the edge guide on
the Binder, and beneath the binding.

When stitched, both sides of the garment will be
finished, and the right side will show the piped edge.

47

PIPING AND BINDING IN

ONE OPERATION

A garment can be piped and bound in one opera^

tion, as shown in Fig. 48.

Fig. 48. Piping and Binding in One Operation

IMPORTANT : When piping and binding at the
same time, as shown above, insert the narrow width
of binding first in its slot, then insert the wider

width in its slot. Two consecutive widths should
not be used at the same time. That is, if No. 1

is used, the wider binding should not be smaller than
No. 3 . If No. 2 is used, the wider binding should
be not less than No. 4. Never use Nos. 1 and 2,

or 2 and 3, etc., together.

Use the upright guide pins to guide the wider of

the two widths of binding, as shown in Fig. 48.

48

TO BIND OUTSIDE CURVES

Allow the edge to be bound to pass freely through
the scroll without crowding against the scroll wall.
The material must be guided from the back of the
Binder and to the left, permitting unfinished edges
to swing naturally into the scroll of the Binder.

Fig. 49. Binding an Outside Curve

Never pull the binding while it is being fed through
the Binder, as this may stretch the binding, making
it too narrow to stitch or to turn in the edges.

When binding curves, turn the material only as

fast as the machine sews.

Do not push the material in too fast as this will

pucker the edge.

Do not stretch the material as this will distort
the edge so that the curve will not have the proper
shape when finished.

If the stitching does not catch the edge of the
binding, adjust the scroll slightly to the left.

TO BIND INSIDE CURVES

When binding an inside curve, straighten out the

edge of the material while feeding it into the Binder,

being careful not to stretch the material.

Soft materials like batiste or crepe de chine require
a row of stitching added close to the edge of the
curve before binding.

49

TO APPLY FRENCH FOLDS

TO CURVES

Place the material under the Binder and stitch

the binding onto the face of the material, as shown
in Fig. 50.

Fig. 50. Applying a French Fold

For guidance in applying the rows of French folds,

mark the material with a line of basting stitches

or with chalk or pencil.

50

THE EDGE-STITCHER

This attachment should be used when the stitch
ing must be kept accurately on the extreme edge of
the material. It is also useful for sewing together
laces, insertions and embroideries, sewing in position
hemmed or folded edges, piping or sewing flat braid

to a garment.

To Adjust the

Edge-Stitcher

Fasten this attachment to
the presser bar in place of
the presser foot.

See that the needle enters
the center of the'needle hole.

i

The distance from the line
of stitching to the edge of
the material in the slots is
regulated by moving the lug

D2, Fig. 51 to the right or

left.

The Edge-Stitcher

Fig. 51

To Sew Lace Together:

(1) Insert one of the laces in slot 1 of the edge stitcher

and the other in slot 4, Fig. 51.

(2) Adjust the lug D2 until the edges to be joined

are caught by the stitching.

(3) Slightly overlap the edges of the lace while stitch

ing to keep them against the ends of the slots.

^4) Loosen both thread tensions to avoid puckering

of fine lace.

51

Fig. 52. Sewing Lace Together

To Insert Lace or Ribbon:

(1) Fold the edge of the material to which the lace

or ribbon is to be sewn and insert it in the slot 1
of the edge-stitcher.

(2) Insert the lace or ribbon in the slot 4 of the edge-

stitcher and proceed to sew.

(3) Cut away the surplus folded material close to

the stitching.

Fig. 53. Setting in Lace Insertion

To Pipe with the

Edge-Stitcher

(1) Cut the piping bias and

twice the width of the
slot 3 so that it can be
folded once.

(2) Insert the piping with its

folded edge to the left
in slot 3 and the edge

52

to be piped in slot 4,
Fig. 51.

Piping with Edge-Stitcher

Fig. 54

To Apply Folded Bias Tape or Military Braid

(1) Place the garment under the edge-stitcher and the

tape in slot 1 or 4, Fig. 51.

Fig. 55. Applying Bias Folded Tape

(2) To make square corners, sew to the turning point,

remove the tape from the attachment, form the
corner by hand, replace the tape and continue

stitching.

(3) To space two or more parallel rows, mark the

material with a guide line, using a crease, chalk
or basting thread.

To Stitch a Wide Hem

(1) A wide hem may be

stitched evenly on
sheets, pillow slips,

etc., with the edge-

Stitcher after the

hem has been

measured and the

edge turned.

(2) Insert the edge in slot

5, Fig. 51, and ad

just the lug D2 to

stitch as close to

the edge as desired.

53

Fig. 56.

Making a Wide Hem

To Make a French Seam

Fig. 57.

Making a French Seam

(Second Operation)

(1) To make a uniform

width French seam,
insert the two edges
to be joined, wrong
sides together, in

slot 1 or 2 Fig. 51

and stitch close

to the edge.

(2) Fold both right sides

together and insert

the back of the
seam in the slot 1
and stitch, allow
ing just enough

margin to conceal
the raw edges.

54

To Tuck with the Edge-Stitcher

The maximum width of tuck that can be made

with the edge-stitcher is 3^ inch.

Fig. 58. Tucking with the Edge-Stitcher

(1) Fold and crease the material for the desired width

of tuck.

(2) For succeeding tucks, fold the material the de

sired distance from the previous tuck, running

the fold lengthwise over a straight edge, then

crease the folds.

(3) Insert the creased folds in the slot 1 and adjust

the edge-stitcher to the right or left for the de

sired width of tuck. Use a light tension, short

stitch and fine thread and needle.

55

GATHERING FOOT

To Shirr with the Gathering Foot

(1) Fasten the Gathering Foot to the presser bar in

place of the presser foot.

Fig. 59. Shirring with the Gathering Foot

(2) Place the material under the Gathering Foot and

stitch in the usual way.

(3) The fullness of the shirring or amount of gather

ing is regulated by the length of stitch. A longer
stitch increases the fullness of the gathers.

56

PRINCIPAL PARTS OF THE RÜFFLER

Fig. 6ü. Principal Parts of the Rüffler

A—Foot—attaches ruffler to the presser bar.
B—Fork Arm—straddles the needle clamp.

C—Adjusting Screw—regulates fullness of the gathers.

D—Projection—engages the slots in adjusting lever.

E—Adjusting Lever—sets the ruffler for gathering or

for making a plait once at every six stitches or once

every twelve stitches as desired; also for disengag

ing the ruffler, when either plaiting or gathering

is not desired.

F—Adjusting Finger—regulates the width or size

of the plaits.

G—Separator Guide—contains slots into which

the edge of the material is placed to keep the

heading of the ruffle even; also for separating

the material to be ruffled from the material to
which the ruffle is to be attached.

H—Ruffling Blade—pushes the material in plaits

up to the needle.

J—Separator Blade—prevents the teeth of the

ruffling blade coming into concact with the
feed of the machine or the material to which

ruffle or plaiting is to be applied.

57

TO ATTACH THE RUFFLER

(1) Raise the needle to its highest point.

(2) Loosen the presser foot thumb screw and attach

the ruffler to the presser bar in place of the
presser foot, at the same time placing the fork
arm B astride the needle clamp.

(3) See that the needle enters the center of the needle

hole in the ruffler.

Fig. 61. Gathering with the Ruffler

TO ADJUST THE RUFFLER FOR GATHERING

(1) Swing the adjusting finger F away from the needle.

(2) Raise the adjusting lever E and move it until the

projection D can be entered in the slot
marked

O

O

£/00a9X

Fig. 62.

Correct Position for Material to be Ruffled

MATeR/AL

(3) Insert the material to be ruffled between the two

blue blades Line 2, Fig. 62.

(4) Draw the material slightly back of the needle,

lower the presser bar and commence to sew.

(5) For fine gathering, turn the adjusting screw C

upward and shorten the stitch.

(6) For full gathering, turn the adjusting screw C

downward and lengthen the stitch.

58

To Make a RufHe and Sew it to a Garment

in One Operation

(1) Insert the material to be ruffled between the two

blue blades Line 2, Fig. 63.

Fig. 64

Making a Ruffle and Attaching it in One Operation

(2) Place the material to which the ruffle is to be

attached under the separator blade

Line 1, Fig. 63.

(3) Proceed the same as for plain gathering.

59

To Make a RufHe and Attach it with a

Facing in One Operation

(1) Insert the material to be ruffled between the two

blue blades Line 2, Fig. 65.

^RUFFLING MA TERIA^^

GARMENT^*

EIB090A

Fig. 65. Correct Positions for the Materials

(2) Place the material to which the ruffle is to be at

tached under the separator blade Line 1, Fig. 65.

(3) Place the facing material over the upper blue

blade Line 4, Fig. 65.

Fig. 66. Making a Ruffle and Attaching

IT WITH A Facing in One Operation

(4) If the facing is to be on the right side of the gar

ment, place the wrong sides of the garment
and ruffle together.

(5) If the facing is to be on the wrong side, place the

right sides of the garment and ruffle together.

60

To Pipe a Ruffle:

Cl) Insert the material to be ruffled between the two

blue blades Line 3, Fig. 67. This material must
not exceed inches in width.

Fig. 67. Correct Positions for the Materials

(2) The piping material is usually cut on the bias and

it should be about 34 inch wide when folded in
the center. Place the piping material in the
ruffler, following Line 5, Fig. 67 with the folded
edge of the piping to the right.

Fig. 68. Piping a Ruffle

(3) Fold the edge of the material to which the piping

and ruffling are to be attached and insert it in
the rufffer, following Line 6, Fig. 67.

61

To Adjust the Ruffler for Plaiting:

(1) Raise the adjusting lever E and move it until the

projection D can be entered in the slot marked
“6.” The ruffler will then plait once every six
stitches. To plait once every 12 stitches, have
the projection D enter the slot “12’* in the
adjusting lever E.

Fig. 69. Plaiting with the Ruffler

(2) Insert the material to be plaited between the two

blue blades Line 2, Fig. 70.

MATERIAL

Fig. 70. Correct Position for the Material

(3) To increase the width of plait, move the adjust

ing finger F back toward the needle and turn
the adjusting screw C downward. To make a
smaller plait, turn the adjusting screw C up
ward. The distance between plaits is regulated
by the length of stitch.

62

To Adjust the Ruffler for Group Plaiting;

(1) To make the space between the groups of plaits,

raise the adjusting lever E and move it until
the projection D can be entered in the small
slot indicated by the star on the adjusting lever

E. The ruffler will then stop plaiting and plain

stitching will be made.

Fig. 71. Group Plaiting with the Ruffler

(2) When the desired space is made, set the projec

tion D in either of the slots 6 or 12.

(3) Insert the material to be plaited between the two

blue blades Line 2, Fig. 72.

MATERIAL

Fig. 72. Correct Position for the Material

TO OIL THE RUFFLER

Occasionally apply a drop of oil to the working

parts of the ruffler at each of the places indicated
in Fig. 71.

63

The SINGER Universal Threader and

Seam Ripper

Makes Threading Easy

£¡3004

This useful little accessory enables you to thread a
hand sewing needle or a machine needle without eye­strain. As shown on the following page, it also serves

Threading

Needle

WITH

SINGER

Needle

Threader

etSBJB

as a seam ripper with a blade set at just the right
angle for quickly picking out stitches. Both ends
fold into the handle like a jack-knife. It is sold by

all SINGER Shops at a reasonable price.

64

The SINGER Material Gripper

Taking out stitches is no longer a tedious job when

you use the SINGER Seam Ripper and Material

Opening Seam with

SINGER Seam Ripper

Material Gripper Holds Cloth

Gripper, as shown above. The gripper acts as a
third hand, holding your material while you pin,

sew or rip. It is sold by all SINGER Shops at a
reasonable price.

THE I MPO RTA NCE OF US ING

SINGER*

NEEDL ES FOR YO UR

SEWI NG MACH INE

You will obtain the best stitchm g
resu lts fro m your sewing machin e

if it is fitte d with

a SINGER

Need le.

SINGER

chase d from any
or

SINGER

SINGER

in the

Need les can be pur

SINGER

Sale sman .

Need les are containe d

SINGER

Gree n Needle

Shop

Pack et with the famo us red letter
"S" upon it .

FOR YOUR PROTECTI

Singer sells its machines onl

SINGER Sewing Centers, identifi

\

i
i

CO

yj c

Red “S” on the window, and nevei
department stores or other outlets.

When your machine needs servi«

your Singer Sewing Center anc
of warranted SINGER parts and

Check local address in teiephon

tory under name of
SINGER SEWING MACHINE CO>

o S

c

O S

oo