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Cyclo-Cross
Owner's Manual
64 pgs3.41 Mb0

Scott Road, Cyclo-Cross, Time Trial Machine Owner's Manual

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Page 1
EN ISO 4210-2
SCOTT OWNER’S MANUAL
ROAD BIKE
WWW.SCOTT-SPORTS.COM
Page 2
Read at least pages 10-18 before your first ride!
Perform the functional check on pages 19-21 before every ride!
WWW.SCOTT-SPORTS.COM
Read this SCOTT owner’s manual and the manuals of the component manu­facturers on this SCOTT info CD! Together with the manuals of the component manufacturers this SCOTT owner’s manual is part of a system.
If this SCOTT owner’s manual will not deliver the responses to all questions and before changing any settings, ask your SCOTT dealer.
Observe the chapter “Intended use of your SCOTT bike”, the SCOTT
service plan, the SCOTT bike card and the SCOTT handover report!
Your bike and this owner’s manual comply
with the requirements of the EN ISO standard
4210-2 Cycles – Safety requirements for bicycles.
DANG ER!
Register your SCOTT bike on www.scott-sports.com within 10 days as of
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the date of purchase. Your references may particularly help ensure your
safety, as we can inform you about possible measures to be taken, if necessary.
CAUTION!
It is essential to also observe the manuals of the component manufacturers
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on this SCOTT info CD. The present owner’s manual is subject to European law and the EN/ISO standards. If delivered to countries outside Europe, supple­mentary information has to be provided by the importer of the SCOTT bike, if necessary.
NOTE!
Inform yourself on www.scott-sports.com
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Imprint:
V 6.1, January 2017
Technical details in the text and illustrations of this manual are subject to change.
© No part of this publication may be reprinted, translated, copied or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, by hand or otherwise for another business purpose without prior written permission of Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH.
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© Text, concept, photos and graphic design Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH www.zedler.de and SCOTT-SPORTS SA www.scott-sports.com
ENGLISH
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SCOTT ROAD BIKE SCOTT CYCLO-CROSS BIKE
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SCOTT TIME TRIAL MACHINE
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Frame:
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Top t u b e
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13 15 16 19 17
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18 21
Down tube
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Seat tube
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Chainstay
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Rear stay
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Head tube
 1 Saddle  2 Seat post  3 Seat post clamp  4 Rear brake  5 Rotor  6 Front derailleur  7 Cassette sprockets  8 Rear derailleur
17 Bull-horn handlebars 18 Brake lever 19 Shifter 20 Brake lever/shifter 21 Headset 22 Front brake 23 Rotor 24 Fork
 9 Chain
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2
24
25 26 27 28
10 Chainwheel 11 Crank
12 Pedal
13 Stem 14 Handlebar 15 Armrests 16 Extensions
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Wheel: 25 Quick-release/
thru axle
26 Spoke 27 Rim 28 Tyr e 29 Hub
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SOME NOTES ON THIS SCOTT OWNER’S MANUAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .09
SAFETY AND BEHAVIOUR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
INTENDED USE OF YOUR SCOTT BIKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
TESTS BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
TESTS BEFORE EVERY RIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
USING QUICK-RELEASES AND THRU AXLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Quick-releases on the SCOTT bike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Safe fastening of a component with a quick-release . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Thru axles on the SCOTT bike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Safe fastening of components with a quick-release . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
ADJUSTING THE SCOTT BIKE TO THE RIDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Adjustment of the saddle to the correct height. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Adjustment of the height of the handlebars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Stems for threadless systems – Aheadset® . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
What to bear in mind with SCOTT bikes with carbon steerer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Saddle adjustment – fore-to-aft position and horizontal tilt . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Adjustment of saddle position and tilt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Cockpit adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Brake lever reach adjustment on SCOTT road bikes and SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes . . .40 Adjustment of handlebar tilt and brake lever/shifter units on SCOTT road bikes
and SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
What to bear in mind with aero bars on SCOTT triathlon bikes and
SCOTT time trial machines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
BRAKES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Rim brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Racing and side-pull brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Cross/Cantilever brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Disc Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Hydraulic disc brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Mechanical disc brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
GEARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
Derailleur gears. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
Operation and control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Checking and readjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Adjusting the rear derailleur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
Adjusting the front derailleur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
Shimano Di2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
Rechargeable battery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
BICYCLE CHAIN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
WHEELS AND TYRES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67
Notes on tyres, inner tubes, rim tape, inflation pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
Rim trueness and spoke tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Carbon wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Particularities of braking with carbon wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
REPAIRING TYRE PUNCTURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Removing the wheel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
Clincher and folding tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Tyre removal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
Tyre mount i ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
TUBULAR TYRES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Tyre removal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
Tyre mount i ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
Remounting the wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84
TESTS AFTER AN ACCIDENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
CARBON – A PARTICULAR MATERIAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
THE HEADSET ON THE SCOTT BIKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Checking and readjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Threadless headset – Aheadset® . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
LIGHTING OF YOUR SCOTT BIKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93
Battery-operated lighting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT THE SCOTT BIKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
Helmets and glasses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Pedals and shoes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Bicycle locks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
Puncture kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
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Cycle computers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Aero or triathlon/time trial bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Mudguards (wheel protections) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
SCOTT-Rucksack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Transporting luggage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
Taking children with you . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
TRANSPORT OF THE SCOTT BIKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101
By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101
By train / By public transport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
GENERAL NOTES ON CARE AND SERVICING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Maintenance and servicing your SCOTT bike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Cleaning and caring for your SCOTT bike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Sheltering and storing your SCOTT bike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
SCOTT SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
RECOMMENDED TORQUE SETTINGS FOR YOUR SCOTT BIKE. . . . . . . .110
Recommended torque settings for disc brakes on your SCOTT bike . . . . . .112
LEGAL REQUIREMENTS FOR RIDING ON PUBLIC ROADS . . . . . . . . . . .113
WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114
Notes on wearing parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115
GUARANTEE ON SCOTT BIKES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
SERVICE PLAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
BIKE CARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
HANDOVER REPORT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
SOME NOTES ON THIS SCOTT OWNER’S MANUAL
The illustrations on the first pages of the SCOTT owner’s manual show a typical SCOTT road bike, a SCOTT time trial machine and a typical SCOTT cyclo-cross bike. One of these SCOTT bikes looks similar to the SCOTT bike you have pur­chased. Today’s bikes come in various types that are designed for specific uses and fitted accordingly. The present SCOTT owner’s manual includes the follow­ing bicycle types:
Road bikes (d) Triathlon bikes Time trial machines (e) Cyclo-cross bikes (f)
This SCOTT owner’s manual is not applicable to any other than the displayed bicycle types. This manual is not intended to help you assemble a SCOTT bike from individual components, to repair it or to make a partly assembled SCOTT bike ready for use.
In this SCOTT owner’s manual the term “road bike” will always be used in general descriptions if it refers to road and triathlon bikes as well as time trial machines and cyclo-cross bikes.
Pay particular attention to the following symbols:
DANG ER!
This symbol indicates an imminent risk to your life or health unless you
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comply with the instructions given or take preventive measures.
CAUTION!
This symbol warns you of wrongdoings which may result in damage to
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property and the environment.
NOTE!
This symbol provides you with information about how to handle the prod-
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uct or refers to a passage in the SCOTT owner’s manual that deserves your special attention.
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The described possible consequences will not be repeated in the SCOTT own­er’s manual every time one of the symbols appears.
The present SCOTT owner’s manual together with this SCOTT info CD complies with the requirements of the EN ISO standard 4210-2 road bikes.
It is essential to also observe the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
Therefore, before setting off on your new SCOTT bike, you should read at least the chapter “Tests before your first ride”. To ensure as much fun and safety as possible during cycling, be sure to carry out the functional check described in the chapter “Tests before every ride” before setting off on your SCOTT bike.
Even a manual as detailed as an encyclopaedia could not describe every pos­sible combination of available bicycle models and components. This SCOTT owner’s manual therefore focuses on your newly purchased SCOTT bike and standard components (c) and provides useful information and warnings for the handling of your new SCOTT bike.
SAFETY AND BEHAVIOUR
Dear SCOTT customer,
Congratulations on your purchase of a new SCOTT bike. We are confident that the bike will exceed your expectations for quality, functioning and riding char­acteristics. Our SCOTT frames and components are customized and adjusted to suit the needs of the users to enhance your joy when riding on your new SCOTT bike – whether you are a beginner or a non-professional road racer!
To ensure that you ride safely and with joy, we strongly encourage you to take the time to read this SCOTT owner’s manual thoroughly.
In purchasing this SCOTT bike you have chosen a product of high quality and technology. Each component of your new SCOTT bike has been designed, manufactured and assembled with great care and expertise. Your SCOTT dealer gave the bike its final assembly and made a functional check. This guarantees you pleasure and a sense of confidence from the very first turn of the pedals (a+b).
This SCOTT owner’s manual contains a wealth of useful facts on the proper use of your SCOTT bike, its maintenance and operation as well as interesting information on bike design and engineering. Read this SCOTT owner’s manual thoroughly. We are sure that even if you have been cycling for many years you will find it worthwhile. Bike technology has developed at a rapid pace during recent years.
When doing any adjusting and servicing (d), be aware that the detailed instruc­tions provided in your manual only refer to this SCOTT bike.
The information included here is not applicable to any other bicycle type. As bicycles come in a wide variety of designs with frequent model changes, the routines described may require complementary information. It is essential to also observe the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
Be aware that these instructions may require further explanation, depending on the experience and/or skills of the person doing the work. For some jobs you may require additional (special) tools (e) or supplementary instructions.
This manual cannot teach you the skills of a bicycle mechanic.
NOTE!
This SCOTT info CD includes the manuals of the component manufacturers
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as well as the relevant web links.
Before you set off, let us point out a few things to you that are very important to every cyclist: Never ride without a properly adjusted helmet and without glasses (f). Make sure to wear suitable, bright clothing. As a minimum you should wear straight cut trousers or leg bands and shoes fitting the pedal system.
Always ride carefully on public roads and observe the traffic rules so as not to endanger yourself or others.
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SCOTT ROAD BIKE
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This manual cannot teach you how to ride. Please be aware that cycling is a potentially dangerous activity that requires the rider to stay in control of his or her SCOTT bike at all times. If necessary, attend a beginners course for cyclists, as offered here and there.
DANG ER!
For your own safety, never do any work or adjusting (f) when servicing your
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bike (e) unless you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
Like any sport, cycling involves the risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bike, you assume the responsibility for the risk. Please note that on a bike you have no protection technique around you like you have in a car (e.g. body­work, ABS, airbag). Therefore, always ride carefully and respect the other traffic participants.
Never ride under the influence of drugs, medication, alcohol or when you are tired. Do not ride with a second person on your SCOTT bike and never ride with­out having both hands on the handlebars.
Observe the legal regulations concerning cycling with SCOTT bikes on public roads. These regulations may differ in each country.
Respect nature when riding through the forest and in the open countryside. Only use your SCOTT bike on signposted, well maintained trails and hard-sur­face roads with a smooth surface (a).
First, we would like to familiarize you with the various components of your SCOTT bike. Please unfold the cover of the SCOTT owner’s manual. There you will find a SCOTT road bike (b), a SCOTT time trial machine (c) and a typical SCOTT cyclo-cross bike (d) showing all the essential components. Leave the page unfolded as you read so that you can easily locate the components as they are referred to in the text.
DANG ER!
Note: Do not hitch yourself and your bike to a car. Do not ride freehand.
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Only take your feet off the pedals, if required by the condition of the road.
SCOTT – NO SHORTCUTS
INTENDED USE OF YOUR SCOTT BIKE
Your SCOTT bike was designed by our engineers for a specific use. Be sure to use your SCOTT bike only according to its intended use, as it may otherwise not withstand the stress and could fail and cause an accident with unforeseeable consequences! Any use contrary to the intended purpose will render the war­ranty null and void.
NOTE!
Inform yourself at www.scott-sports.com to which category your new
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SCOTT bike belongs.
There is no bicycle type which is suitable for all purposes. Your SCOTT dealer will be pleased to help you finding the right SCOTT bike for your needs. He will also explain you the limits of the different types of bicycle.
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SCOTT ROAD BIKE
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SCOTT TIME TRIAL MACHINE
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SCOTT CYCLO-CROSS BIKE
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Category 1: SCOTT road and triathlon bikes as well as time trial machines If you want to use SCOTT road bikes (a), triathlon bikes (b) as well as time trial machines (c) on public roads, these bikes must be fitted with the prescribed
equipment.
Observe the traffic rules when riding on public roads. For more information see the chapter “Legal requirements for riding on public roads“.
For SCOTT road and triathlon bikes as well as time trial machines trailers, child carriers and pannier racks are not permitted. Note that SCOTT will not assume liability for the use of trailers, child carriers and pannier racks. Such a use would render the warranty null and void.
DANG ER!
SCOTT bikes of the category 1 are not suitable for off-road use, jumps (d),
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slides, stair riding, stoppies (e), wheelies, tricks etc.!
SCOTT road and triathlon bikes as well as time trial machines are exclusively
designed for riding on hard-surface paths and roads with tarred or paved sur­face. The tyres must remain in constant contact with the ground.
These bicycles are not suitable for off-road and cyclo-cross use or for touring with pannier racks and bags.
SCOTT Bikes Aero, Lightweight, Endurance Comfort and Contessa Road belong to this category.
Category 2.3: SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes
Due to their design and fittings, SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes (f) are not always suitable for being used on public roads. If you want to use them on public roads, these bikes must be fitted with the prescribed equipment. Observe the traffic rules when riding on public roads. For more information see the chapter “Legal requirements for riding on public roads“.
SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes - CX are designed for riding on hard-surface terrain, i.e. on tarred roads and bicycle lanes or gravel and grass field tracks. The tyres must remain in constant contact with the ground. In addition, they are well suited for well paved gravel paths and forest roads as well as off-road trails with a slight slope where a temporary loss of tyre contact with the ground due to small steps may occur. In addition, they are suitable for use on easy terrain and in cyclo-cross competitions.
These bicycles are not suitable for off-road use, such as mountain bike use, namely all mountain, enduro, downhill (DH), freeride, dual slalom, downhill/fre­eride parks, jumps, drops and in bike parks etc.
SCOTT bikes CX belong to this category.
The permissible overall weight (rider incl. luggage and bicycle) must not ex- ceed 117 to 120 kg / 315 to 330 lbs (according to model). Under certain circum- stances the permissible maximum weight can be further limited by the compo­nent manufacturers’ recommendations for use.
For SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes trailers, child carriers and pannier racks are not permitted. Note that SCOTT will not assume liability for the use of trailers, child carriers and pannier racks. Such a use would render the warranty null and void.
The permissible overall weight (rider incl. luggage and bicycle) must not ex- ceed 117 to 120 kg / 315 to 330 lbs (according to model). Under certain circum- stances the permissible maximum weight can be further limited by the compo­nent manufacturers’ recommendations for use.
NOTE!
Inform yourself at www.scott-sports.com to which category your new
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SCOTT bike belongs.
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DANG ER!
SCOTT bikes of the category 2.3 are not suitable for riding over challenging
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and blocked terrain, jumps, slides, stair riding, stoppies, wheelies, tricks etc.!
NOTE!
Inform yourself at www.scott-sports.com to which category your new
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SCOTT bike belongs.
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Page 9
TESTS BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE
1. If you want to use your bike on public roads, it has to comply with legal requirements. These requirements may vary in each country. The fittings of your SCOTT bike are, therefore, not necessarily complete (a).
Ask your SCOTT dealer concerning the laws and regulations applicable in
your country or in the country you intend to use your SCOTT bike. Have your SCOTT bike equipped accordingly before using it on public roads.
For more information see the chapter “Legal requirements for riding on pub-
lic roads“.
4. Are saddle and handlebars properly adjusted? The saddle should be set to a height from which you can just reach the pedal in its lowest position with your heel (d). The hips should remain horizontal. Check whether your toes reach to the floor when you are sitting on the saddle. Your SCOTT dealer will be pleased to help you, if you are not happy with your seating position.
For more information see the chapter “Adjusting the SCOTT bike to the rider”.
5. If your SCOTT bike is equipped with clipless or step-in pedals (e): Have you ever tried cycling with the respective cycling shoes? First practise locking one shoe onto a pedal and disengaging it while standing on the other leg. Ask your SCOTT dealer to explain you the pedals and to adjust them to your needs.
2. Are you familiar with the brake system (b)? Have a look at the SCOTT bike card and check whether the brake lever of the front brake is on the side you are used to (right or left). If it is not, ask your SCOTT dealer to switch the brake levers before you set off for the first time.
Your new bike is equipped with modern brakes which may be far more pow-
erful than those you were used to so far. Be sure to first practise using the brakes on a level, non-slip surface off public roads! Slowly approach higher brake performances and speeds.
For more information see the chapter “Brakes” and the manuals of the com-
ponent manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
3. Are you familiar with the type and functioning of the gears (c)? Ask your SCOTT dealer to explain you the gear system and make yourself familiar with your new gears in an area free of traffic, if necessary.
For more information see the chapter “Gears” and the manuals of the com-
ponent manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
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For more information see the chapter “Pedals and shoes” and the manuals of
the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
DANG ER!
Be aware that the distance you need to stop your bike increases, when
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you are riding with your hands on aero bars or on triathlon bars. The brake levers are not always within easy reach.
DANG ER!
Be sure to use your SCOTT bike only for its intended purpose, as it may
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otherwise not withstand the stress and fail. Risk of falling!
DANG ER!
Make particularly sure there is enough space between your crotch and the
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top tube (f) so that you do not hurt yourself, if you have to get off your bicycle quickly.
DANG ER!
Note that both braking effect and tyre grip can be reduced drastically in
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wet conditions. Look well ahead when riding on wet roads and go well below the speed you would ride at in dry conditions.
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DANG ER!
A lack of practice when using clipless pedals or too much spring tension in
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the mechanism can lead to a very firm connection, from which you cannot quickly step out! Risk of falling!
DANG ER!
In case you had a crash with your SCOTT bike, perform at least the check
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described in the chapters “Tests before every ride“ and “Tests after an accident“. Only ride back very carefully on your SCOTT bike, if it passed the tests without any problems. Do not accelerate or brake hard and do not ride your bike out of the saddle. If you are in doubt, have yourself picked up by car, instead of taking any risk. Back home you need to check your SCOTT bike thor­oughly once again. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer!
TESTS BEFORE EVERY RIDE
Your SCOTT bike has undergone numerous tests during production and a final check has been carried out by your SCOTT dealer. Nevertheless, be sure to check the following points to exclude any malfunctioning that may be due to the transport of your SCOTT bike or to changes a third person may have per­formed on your SCOTT bike before delivery:
1. Are the quick-release levers (c), thru axles or nuts of the front and rear wheel, the seat post (d) and other components properly closed?
For more information see the chapter “Using quick-releases and thru axles”
and the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
DANG ER!
For SCOTT road and triathlon bikes as well as time trial machines trailers
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(a), child carriers (b) and pannier racks are not permitted.
NOTE!
We recommend that you take out private liability insurance. Make sure that
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coverage for bicycle damage is provided by your insurance. Contact your insurance company or agency.
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2. Are the tyres in good condition and do they have sufficient pressure (e)? The minimum and maximum pressure (in bar or PSI) is indicated on the tyre side. For more information see the chapter “Wheels and tyres” and the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
3. Spin the wheels to check whether the rims are true. If you have disc brakes, watch the gap between frame and rim or tyre and, if you have rim brakes, between brake pad and rim. Untrue rims can be an indication of tyres with ruptured sides or broken spokes.
For more information see the chapter “Wheels and tyres” and the manuals of
the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
4. Test the brakes in stationary by firmly pulling the brake levers towards the handlebars (f). The brake pads of rim brakes must hit the rim evenly with their entire surface without touching the tyre during braking, in open condi­tion or in between.
You should not be able to pull the lever all the way to the handlebars. If your
bike has hydraulic brakes, check the hydraulic brake cables for oil or brake fluid leaks! Check the thickness of the brake pads, as well.
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With disc brakes (a) you should have a stable pressure point at once. If you
have to actuate the brake lever more than once to get a positive braking response, have the SCOTT bike checked by your SCOTT dealer immediately. For more information see the chapter “Brakes” and the manuals of the com­ponent manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
5. Let your SCOTT bike bounce on the ground from a small height (b). If there is any rattling, check where it comes from. Check the bearings and bolted connections, if necessary. Tighten them slightly, if necessary.
6. If your bike has a kickstand, make sure it is fully raised before you set off. Risk of falling!
7. Do not forget to take a high quality D- (c) or chain lock with you on your ride. The only way to effectively protect your SCOTT bike against theft is to lock it to an immovable object.
8. If you want to ride on public roads, make sure your SCOTT bike is equipped according to the applicable regulations of your country (d). Riding without lights and reflectors in dark or dim conditions is very dangerous because you will be seen too late or not at all by other road users. A set of lights that corresponds to the regulations is a must on public roads. Turn on the lights as soon as dusk sets in.
For more information see the chapter “Legal requirements for riding on pub-
lic roads“.
DANG ER!
Do not use your SCOTT bike, if it fails at one of these points! A defective
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SCOTT bike can lead to serious accidents! If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
Improperly closed fastenings, e.g. quick-releases, can cause parts of your
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SCOTT bike to come loose and result in serious accidents!
DANG ER!
Be aware that the distance you need to stop your bike increases, when you
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are riding with your hands on aero bars or on triathlon bars (e). The brake levers are not always within easy reach.
DANG ER!
During use your SCOTT bike is undergoing stress resulting from the surface
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of the road and from the rider’s action. Due to these dynamic loads, the dif­ferent parts of your bike react with wear and fatigue. Please check your SCOTT bike regularly, i.e. according to the SCOTT service and maintenance schedule, for wear marks, scratches, deformations, colour changes and any indication of cracking. Components which have reached the end of their service life may break without previous warning. Let your SCOTT dealer maintain and service your SCOTT bike regularly, i.e. according to the SCOTT service and maintenance schedule. In cases of doubt it is always best to replace components.
USING QUICK-RELEASES AND THRU AXLES
QUICK-RELEASES ON THE SCOTT BIKE
Most SCOTT bikes are fitted with quick-releases to ensure fast adjustments, assembly and disassembly. Be sure to check whether all quick-releases are tight before you set off on your SCOTT bike. Quick-releases should be handled with greatest care, as they affect your safety directly.
Practise the proper use of quick-releases to avoid any accidents.
Quick-release retention mechanisms essentially consist of two operative ele­ments (f):
1. The hand lever on one side of the hub which creates a clamping force via a
cam when you close it.
2. The tightening nut on the other side of the hub with which the preload on
the threaded rod (quick-release axle) is set.
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DANG ER!
Do not touch the brake disc directly after having stopped, e.g. after a long
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down-hill ride, you may burn your fingers! Always let the brake disc cool down before opening the quick-release.
Safe fastening of a component with a quick-release
Open the quick-release. You should now be able to read “Open“ (a) on the lever. Make sure the component to be fastened is in the accurate position.
For more information see the chapters “Adjusting the SCOTT bike to the rider” and “Wheels and tyres” and the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
Move the lever back, as if to close it. Now you should be able to read ”Close“ on the outside of the lever. When you start closing the lever you should feel virtu­ally no resistance with your hand until the lever is at a right angle to the frame/ fork (b).
When continuing to close the lever the resistance you feel should increase signifi­cantly and towards the end even more strength is required to close the lever. Use the ball of your thumb while your fingers pull on an immovable part, such as the fork (c) or a rear stay, but not on a brake disc or spoke, to push it in all the way.
In its end position, the lever should be at a right angle to the quick-release axle (d), i.e. it should not stand out. The lever should lie close to the frame or the fork so that it cannot be opened accidentally. Make sure, however, that the lever is easy to handle for actual quick use.
To check whether the lever is securely locked apply pressure to the end of the hand lever and try to turn it while it is closed (e). If you can turn the lever around, open it and increase the preload. Screw the tightening nut on the op­posite side clockwise by half a turn. Close the quick-release lever and check it again for tightness.
Finally lift the bike a few centimetres, so that the wheel no longer touches the ground and hit the tyre from above. If it is properly fastened, the wheel will remain firmly fixed in the drop-outs of the frame or fork without producing any rattling.
If your seat post is equipped with a quick-release mechanism, check whether the saddle is firmly fixed by trying to twist it relative to the frame (f).
DANG ER!
Make sure the levers of both wheel quick-releases are always on the side
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opposite to the chain. This will help you to avoid mounting the front wheel accidentally the wrong way round. In the case of SCOTT bikes with disc brakes and quick-releases having a 5-mm-axle, it may be reasonable to mount both quick-releases with the lever on the side of the chain drive. This helps you not to come into contact with the hot brake disc and prevents you from having your fingers burnt. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
Never ride your SCOTT bike without having checked first, whether the
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wheels are securely fastened. With an insufficiently closed quick-release
the wheel can come loose, thus creating a serious risk of accident!
CAUTION!
If your SCOTT road bike has thru axles, read the manuals of the thru-axle
A
and wheel manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
CAUTION!
If your SCOTT bike is equipped with quick-releases, be sure to lock the
A
frame to an immovable object together with the wheels when you leave it
outside. Anti-theft protection!
NOTE!
To be on the safe side you can replace the quick-releases by special locks.
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They can only be opened and closed with a special, coded key or an Allen key. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
After wheel mounting test the brakes in stationary. You should reach the
G
pressure point of the brake before the brake lever reaches the handlebars. In the case of hydraulic brakes pump them, if necessary, until you reach a pre­cise pressure point.
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DT Swiss RWS quick-release system
The RWS system from DT Swiss (a-c) for road racing and cyclo-cross racing bikes is a special type of quick-release for front and rear wheels. The RWS sys­tem is compatible with all standard drop-outs.
Make sure during the assembly that the axles, the hubs, the drop-outs of the fork and the rear frame are clean. Clean the components with an absorbent cloth, if necessary, by using water and a little detergent.
In case you do not succeed in adjusting and fixing the wheel, as described, con­tact your SCOTT dealer.
Wheel mounting
Put the front wheel into the fork and mount the rotor simultaneously, if neces­sary, in the brake calliper. Make sure that in the area of the rear wheel the chain runs over the sprockets and over both pulleys of the rear derailleur.
Bring the front or the rear wheel into the correct position between the drop­outs and the fork or rear frame and slide the RWS quick-release axle from the left side through the drop-outs and the hub. Mount the lock nut on the right side.
Hold the lock nut on the right side of the hub tight. Turn the RWS quick-release lever clockwise to pre-tighten the RWS system. Depending on the fork mounted or the frame model, the number of turns you need varies. You need at least six, in most cases however more turns. During the first turns you should be able to turn the RWS quick-release lever nearly without resistance.
Turn the quick-release lever subsequently forcefully clockwise until the axle is hand-tight.
Make sure the RWS quick-release lever does not stand out to the front (d). Open the RWS quick-release lever a little (e, position 1) to bring it into a favourable position. Turn the quick-release lever then into the desired position (e, position 2) and re-close it towards the hub (e, position 3).
Close the release lever of the brake or hook in the cable. Actuate the brake lever to make the brake work. The brake pads of rim brakes must hit the rim evenly with their entire surface without touching the tyre during braking, in open con­dition or in between.
Lift the wheel and give it a strong tap from above. The wheel must be securely fixed and must not rattle.
Wheel removal
To open the RWS system turn the quick-release lever anticlockwise (f) by hold­ing the lock nut tight on the other side of the hub. Typically, you need not open the RWS system completely. Open it only so far until the wheel slides off the drop-outs. Open it fully only in exceptional cases and remove the axle com­pletely from the hub.
DANG ER!
Improperly mounted wheels may throw you off your bike or result in
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serious accidents! Therefore, if you have the slightest doubt, contact your SCOTT dealer and ask him to explain the system of your SCOTT bike to you.
DANG ER!
After wheel mounting test the brakes in stationary. You should reach the
G
pressure point of the brake before the brake lever reaches the handlebars. In the case of hydraulic brakes pump them, if necessary, until you reach a pre­cise pressure point.
DANG ER!
Do not open the red screw to open or close the RWS system.
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NOTE!
Before mounting or replacing a fork/wheel combination with thru-axle
system, be sure to read first the manuals of the respective fork or wheel
I
manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD. More information are provided at www.dtswiss.com
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THRU AXLES ON THE SCOTT BIKE
The RWS system from DT Swiss (a-c) for road racing and cyclo-cross racing bikes used by SCOTT are thru axles which provide the forks and the rear frames with a higher stiffness. Whenever your SCOTT bike is exposed to high loads, it remains directionally stable.
In the case of SCOTT road or cyclo-cross bikes with disc brakes the RWS system is screwed on the right side. The system has a larger thread and can be released with no more than two and a half turns. Make sure during the assembly that the thru axles, the drop-outs of the fork and the hubs are clean. Clean the components with an absorbent cloth, if necessary, by using water and a little detergent.
In case you do not succeed in adjusting and fixing the wheel, as described, con­tact your SCOTT dealer.
You will feel an increasing resistance at the lever. Only turn the axle until it is hand-tight.
Make sure the RWS quick-release lever does not stand out to the front (d). Open the RWS quick-release lever a little (e, position 1) to bring it into a favour­able position. Turn the RWS quick-release lever then into the desired position (e, position 2) and re-close it towards the hub (e, position 3).
Actuate the brake lever to make the brake work. Lift the wheel and give it a strong tap from above. The wheel must be securely fixed and must not rattle.
Wheel removal
Turn the quick-release lever anticlockwise to open the RWS system. Release the thru axle completely by two and a half turns, hold the wheel in its position and remove the axle from the hub.
Safe fastening of components with a quick-release
Wheel mounting
Put the wheel into the fork or the rear frame and mount the rotor simultaneous­ly, if necessary, in the brake calliper. Make sure that in the area of the rear wheel the chain runs over the sprockets and over both pulleys of the rear derailleur.
Bring the front wheel into the right position between the drop-outs and slide the thru axle with open quick-release lever from the left side through the drop­out and the hub.
As soon as you have reached the opposite side, turn the thru axle clockwise into the nut on the right side. Do not apply force, but make sure the axle thread engages properly with the nut on the other side.
During the first turn you should be able to turn the RWS quick-release lever of the thru axle nearly without resistance. If everything fits, turn the RWS quick-re­lease lever all in all two and a half turns clockwise to pre-tighten the RWS system.
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DANG ER!
Improperly mounted wheels may throw you off your bike or result in
G
serious accidents! Therefore, if you have the slightest doubt, contact your SCOTT dealer and ask him to explain the system of your SCOTT bike to you.
DANG ER!
After wheel mounting test the brakes in stationary. You should reach the
G
pressure point of the brake before the brake lever reaches the handlebars. In the case of hydraulic brakes pump them, if necessary, until you reach a pre­cise pressure point (f).
DANG ER!
Do not open the red screw to open or close the RWS system.
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NOTE!
Before mounting or replacing a fork/wheel combination with thru-axle
I
system, be sure to read first the manuals of the respective fork or wheel manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD. More information are also provided at www.dtswiss.com
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ADJUSTING THE SCOTT BIKE TO THE RIDER
Your body height and proportions are decisive for the frame size of your SCOTT bike. Make particularly sure there is enough space between your crotch and the top tube so that you do not hurt yourself, if you have to get off your bike quickly (a).
By choosing a specific type of bicycle you roughly determine the posture you will be riding in (b+c). However, some components of your SCOTT bike are es­pecially designed so that you can adjust them to your body proportions up to a certain degree. This includes the seat post, the handlebars and the stem as well as the brake levers/shifters.
As all works require know-how, experience, suitable tools and skills, you should restrict yourself to adjusting your seating position. Contact your SCOTT deal­er, if you are not happy with your seating position or if you want something changed. They will see to your wishes the next time you leave your SCOTT bike at the workshop, e.g. for the first inspection.
NOTE!
The seating position depends highly on how you want to use the SCOTT
I
bike. Ask your SCOTT dealer or your trainer for help. The advice given be-
low is suitable for typical SCOTT road bikes.
NOTE!
If sitting on the saddle causes you trouble, e.g. because it numbs your
I
crotch, this may be due to the saddle. Your SCOTT dealer has a very wide
range of saddles available and will be pleased to advise you.
ADJUSTMENT OF THE SADDLE TO THE CORRECT HEIGHT
The correct saddle height depends on the length of your legs. When pedal­ling, the ball of your foot should be positioned above the centre of the pedal axle. With your feet in this position you should not be able to stretch your legs completely straight at the lowest point, otherwise your pedalling will become awkward (d).
After any adjustment/assembly work, be sure to make a short functional check as described in the chapter “Tests before every ride” and do a test ride on your SCOTT bike in an area free of traffic.
DANG ER!
If you have a very small frame, there may be the danger of your foot col-
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liding with the front wheel. Therefore, make sure your cleats are properly adjusted.
DANG ER!
All tasks described in the following require the know-how of a mechanic
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and appropriate tools. Make it a rule to tighten the bolted connections always with greatest attention. Increase the torque values bit by bit and check the fit of the component in between. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum torque values! You will find the prescribed values in the chapter “Rec­ommended torque settings for your SCOTT bike”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
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Check the height of your saddle with flat-soled shoes. This is best done with suitable cycling shoes.
Sit on the saddle and put your heel on the pedal at its lowest point. Your leg should be fully stretched and your hips should remain horizontal (e).
To adjust the saddle height loosen the quick-release lever (see the chapter “Us­ing quick-releases and thru axles“) or the binder bolt of the seat post clamp at the top of the seat tube. The latter requires suitable tools, e.g. an Allen key, with which you turn the bolt two to three turns anticlockwise. Now you can perform the vertical adjustment of the seat post.
Be sure not to pull out the seat post too far – the mark on the seat post (f) (end , max., min., stop or the like) should always remain within the seat tube – and al­ways grease the part of an aluminium or titanium seat post that is inserted into a seat tube made of aluminium, titanium or steel. Do not grease carbon seat posts and/or carbon seat tubes in the clamping area! Use special carbon assembly paste instead.
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Align the saddle with the frame by using the saddle nose and the bottom brack­et or top tube as a reference point. Clamp the seat post tight again by closing the quick-release, as described in the chapter “Using quick-releases and thru axles” or by turning the seat post binder bolts clockwise in half turns or better in steps of 0.5 Nm increments starting at 3 Nm (a). You should not need much strength in your hands to clamp the seat post sufficiently tight. Otherwise the seat post does not match the frame.
Verify in between that the seat post is sufficiently tight by taking hold of the saddle at both ends and then trying to rotate the seat post inside the seat tube (b). If it does rotate, gently retighten the binder bolt of the seat post clamp by half a turn or better by a quarter turn or in steps of 0.5 Nm increments and do the check again.
Does the leg stretch test now produce the correct result? Check by moving your foot and pedal to the lowest point. When the ball of your foot is exactly above the pedal centre in the ideal pedalling position, your knee should be slightly bent. If this is the case, the saddle height is adjusted to the correct height.
Check whether you can touch the ground safely while sitting on the saddle by stretching your feet to the floor (c). If not, you should lower the saddle until you can, at least to begin with.
DANG ER!
Never apply grease or oil into a seat tube of a frame made of carbon unless
G
an alloy sleeve is inside the frame. If you mount a carbon seat post, do not put any grease on it, even if the frame is made of metal. Once greased, carbon components may never again ensure reliable clamping! Use special carbon assembly paste instead.
DANG ER!
Never ride your bike with the seat post drawn out beyond the limit, maxi-
G
mum, or stop mark! The seat post might break or cause severe damage to the frame. In the case of frames with seat tubes that extend beyond the top of the frame’s top tube the seat post should be inserted into the seat tube at least below the bottom of the top tube and below the top of the rear stays! If seat post and frame require different minimum insertion depths, you should opt for the deeper insertion depth.
DANG ER!
Make sure not to overtighten the binder bolt of the seat post clamp. Other-
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wise you may damage the seat post or the frame. Risk of accident!
CAUTION!
If the seat post does not move easily inside the seat tube or if it cannot be
A
tightened sufficiently, ask your SCOTT dealer for advice. Do not use brute force!
CAUTION!
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque value in
A
small steps (0.5 Nm increments) and check in between the proper fit of the component. Never exceed the maximum torque value indicated by the manu­facturer!
NOTE!
Children and adolescents need to have the saddle height and the position
I
of saddle and handlebars checked at least every 3 months!
ADJUSTMENT OF THE HEIGHT OF THE HANDLEBARS
In principle, SCOTT road bikes are sports bikes designed for speed. For this rea­son alone a SCOTT road bike sets certain basic requirements to the body, the shoulder and the neck muscles. The height of the handlebars compared to the saddle and the distance between saddle and handlebars determine how much your upper body will be inclined forward. Lowering the handlebars gives you a streamlined position and brings more weight to bear on the front wheel. How­ever, it also entails an extremely forward leaning posture which is tiring and less comfortable, because it increases the strain on your wrists, arms, back, upper body and neck. As a general rule you should be able to adopt the three basic positions (d-f ) on a SCOTT road bike without any problems with your hands around the respective area on the handlebars.
In the case of SCOTT road bikes an Aheadset®-stem allows the vertical adjust­ment of the handlebars. This requires special knowledge. In this regard, the descriptions hereafter may be incomplete. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
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DANG ER!
The stem is one of the load-bearing parts of your SCOTT bike. Changes to
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it can impair your safety. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer!
DANG ER!
These routines require a certain amount of manual skill and (special) tools.
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Ask your SCOTT dealer to explain you both function and adjustment of your stem or let him do that work.
DANG ER!
The bolted connections of stem and handlebars have to be tightened to
G
the prescribed torque values. If you disregard the prescribed values, the handlebars or stem may come loose or break. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum torque values! You will find the prescribed values in the chapter “Recommended torque settings for your SCOTT bike”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
DANG ER!
Stems come in varying lengths (a) as well as shaft and binder tube diam-
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eters. A stem of inappropriate dimension can become a source of danger: Handlebars, stems or forks can break, resulting in an accident. When replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts from SCOTT or SYNCROS. Your SCOTT dealer will be pleased to help you.
CAUTION!
If you choose to use the product of another manufacturer, make sure it is
A
compatible with the S COTT/SYNCROS components. SCOTT assumes no responsibility for problems resulting from the use of non-S COTT/SYNCROS products. Make sure the handlebar/stem-combination is approved by the han­dlebar and/or stem manufacturer.
CAUTION!
Make sure the handlebar clamping area is free of sharp edges.
A
Stems for threadless systems – Aheadset®
In the case of SCOTT bikes with Aheadset® headsets the stem also serves to adjust the bearing preload. If you change the position of the stem, you have to readjust the bearing play (see the chapter “The headset on the SCOTT bike” and the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD).
The vertical setting range is determined by the intermediate rings, also referred to as spacers (b). In the case of flip-flop stem models the stem can be mounted the other way round (c) to achieve a different handlebar height.
For modifications unscrew the bolt at the top of the fork steerer tube which serves to adjust the initial bearing pressure, remove the Ahead cap and release the bolts on either side of the stem by up to three turns (d). Remove stem and spacers from the fork steerer tube. In doing so keep hold of both frame and fork to prevent the fork from slipping off the head tube. You can determine the handlebar height by the arrangement of stem and spacers. Slip the remaining spacers onto the fork steerer tube above the stem. Adjust the headset, as de­scribed in the chapter “The headset on the SCOTT bike“.
If you want to turn the stem around, you have to also release the bolts of the faceplate securing the handlebars (e). If the stem is fitted with a cap, you can simply take out the handlebars at this point. If it is not fitted with a cap, you have to remove the handlebar fittings.
Mount the handlebars and, if necessary, the handlebar fittings, as described in the chapter “Adjustment of handlebar tilt and brake lever/shifter units on SCOTT road bikes and SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes” and/or in the manuals of the compo­nent manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
Check after the adjustment or assembly, whether the handlebars are firmly seat­ed in the stem by trying to rotate the handlebars downwards (f). Verify whether the handlebar/stem-combination can be turned relative to the fork. Do this by taking the front wheel between your knees and trying to twist the handlebars. If there is movement, carefully tighten the bolts a little more by using the torque wrench, observe the maximum torque value and check again the proper fit.
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque value in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) and check in between the proper fit of the component.
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Never exceed the maximum torque value indicated by SCOTT! Ask your SCOT T dealer to explain you both function and adjustment of your stem or, still better, let him do that work.
DANG ER!
In the case of turned stems, it is possible that the cables are too short. In
G
this case riding can be unsafe. If in doubt, ask your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
When removing spacers (a) the fork steerer tube must be shortened. This
G
change is irreversible. The shortening should be carried out by your SCOTT
dealer, but only after you have found your preferred position.
4. Apply a thin and even layer of grease on the bearings before mounting the fork in the frame. Make sure the clamping surfaces of the stem remain clear of grease. Otherwise there is the risk that a secure clamping of the stem is no longer possible. Apply special carbon assembly paste on the inside of the stem as well as on the fork steerer inside and outside in the area of the clamping. This increases the friction and ensures a secure fit.
5. Slide the expander into the carbon steerer until it is flush with the top of the steerer.
6. Tighten the expander by using an 8-mm Allen key to a maximum torque value of 4-5 Nm making sure that the expander stays flush with the top of the steerer (e). Make sure there is no more than 2.5 mm between the top of the stem clamp and the top of the steerer as shown on the illustration.
What to bear in mind with SCOTT bikes with carbon steerer
Always make sure before assembly to use a headset compatible with the stem. We recommend the use of a SYNCROS stem and headset when mounting a SCOT T/SYNCROS carbon fork, as they are designed to work together. If you choose to use the product of another manufacturer, make sure it is compatible with the SCOT T/ SYNCROS fork. SCOTT assumes no responsibility for problems resulting from the use of non-S COTT/SYNCROS products.
Never use more than 40 mm stack height of spacers between headset and stem (b). Never use more than 5 mm stack height of spacers above the stem between the stem and the top cap of the headset (b). Do use a minimum of 5 mm stack height of spacers below the stem between the cap of the headset and the stem.
1. The fork steerer, especially in case of a carbon steerer, must be assembled with the originally supplied internal expander wedge. Never use a standard star flanged nut on carbon fork steerers (c).
2. When cutting the steerer tube use handtools only. Do not use a power saw or a speed cutter, but use a hand saw with a fine blade for metal cutting (d) and a saw guide.
3. Once the steerer tube is cut to the desired length, be sure to remove all burrs at the top of the steerer tube. Make sure to wear appropriate safety protec­tion, safety goggles, gloves and breathing mask. Avoid inhaling the carbon dust. Do not blow or sweep the dust off, but remove it with a moist rag. Dis­pose of it immediately.
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Top c a p
Stem
Steerer tube
Spacers
7. Clamp the stem onto the steerer tube with a maximum of 6 Nm (f) and respect also the maximum torque value of the stem manufacturer. The lower value indicated on these components has to be accepted as a maximum torque value. Do not overtighten!
8. Make sure the stem has no sharp edges on the contact area for the steerer or the handlebar. This could result in serious accidents. In case you change your stem to another model or brand, please contact your authorized SCOT T/ SYNCROS dealer. SCOTT will not be liable in case a not originally provided SCOTT or SYNCROS stem is used on the bike assembly. In case of further questions, please contact your authorized SCOT T/SYNCROS dealer or the national distributor of SCOT T/SYNCROS.
max.
2.5mm
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DANG ER!
Modifications in the area of the carbon forks are jobs which should be left
G
to a skilled two-wheel/bicycle mechanic. SCOTT therefore recommends that you ask your SCOTT dealer to do any work on the carbon fork, whenever necessary. Wrong processing and unfavourable stems may lead to breakage. Risk of accident!
DANG ER!
The setting range of the saddle is very small. Replacing the stem allows you
G
to make far bigger adjustments to the rider’s fore-to-aft position, as stems come in different lengths. In doing so you may achieve differences of more than ten centimetres. In this case you usually would have to adjust the length of the cables – a job best left to your SCOTT dealer!
DANG ER!
Sawdust from cutting carbon components has a reputation of causing can-
G
cer. Therefore, do not blow or sweep the dust off, but remove it with a moist rag. Dispose of it immediately.
SADDLE ADJUSTMENT – FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND HORIZONTAL TILT
The inclination of your upper body (a), and hence your riding comfort and pedalling power, are also influenced by the distance between the grips of the handlebars and the saddle. This distance can be altered slightly by changing the position of the saddle rails in the seat post clamp. However, this also influences your pedalling. Whether the saddle is positioned more to the front or to the back of the bike will alter how rearward the pedalling position of your legs is.
Make sure the saddle is clamped within the range of the marking on the saddle rail, i.e. on the straight part of the rail, never in the curved sections.
You need to have the saddle horizontal in order to pedal in a relaxed manner. If it is tilted, you will constantly have to lean against the handlebars to prevent yourself from slipping off the saddle.
DANG ER!
The bolted connections of the seat post have to be tightened to the pre-
G
scribed torque values (b). Use a torque wrench and never exceed the max­imum torque values! You will find the prescribed values in the chapter “Recom­mended torque settings for your SCOTT bike”, directly on the components and/ or in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
DANG ER!
Make sure the saddle is clamped within the range of the marking on the
G
saddle rail and not in the curved section of the saddle rails (c). Otherwise the saddle rail can fail! Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month according to the prescribed values.
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NOTE!
The manufacturers of saddles deliver their products with detailed manuals.
I
You find these manuals on this SCOTT info CD. Read them carefully before adjusting the position of your saddle. If you are in doubt or if you have any ques­tions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
Adjustment of saddle position and tilt
With patent seat posts (d) one or two bolts fix the clamping mechanism, which controls the tilt and the horizontal position of the saddle. Some seat posts have two bolts side-by-side.
Release the bolt(s) at the top of the seat post. Release the bolt(s) two to three turns anticlockwise at the most, otherwise the whole assembly can come apart. Move the saddle forth or back, as desired. You may have to give the saddle a light blow to make it move.
Please observe the markings on the saddle rail. Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal (e) as you retighten the bolt(s). Your SCOTT bike should stand on level ground while you adjust the saddle.
Having found your preferred position, make sure both clamp halves fit snugly around the saddle rails before tightening the bolt(s) to the correct torque value as prescribed by the seat post manufacturer.
Retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench according to the manuals of the manufacturer. After fastening the saddle, check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands at either end of the saddle (f).
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DANG ER!
Poorly tightened or loosening bolts can fail. Risk of accident!
G
DANG ER!
Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month according to the
G
values indicated directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
Clamping with two bolts in line (a): Release both bolts two to three turns anticlockwise, otherwise the whole assembly can come apart. Move the saddle forward or backward as desired to adjust the horizontal position. You may have to give the saddle a light blow to make it move. Please observe the markings on the saddle rail.
Having found your preferred position, make sure both clamp halves fit snugly around the saddle rails before tightening the bolt(s) to the correct torque value as prescribed by the seat post manufacturer.
Tighten both bolts evenly (b) so the saddle remains at the same angle. If you wish to lower the nose of the saddle a little, tighten the front bolt clockwise. You might have to loosen the rear bolt a little as well. To lower the rear part of the saddle, the rear bolt has to be tightened clockwise and the front bolt has to be released, if necessary.
After fastening the saddle, check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands at either end of the saddle.
If you have a single bolt system (c), the seat post for most of the sports saddles is designed for a saddle rail diameter of 7 mm.
Replacement outer clamps for ovalized saddle rails of 8 mm x 8.5 mm (W x H) as well as for carbon saddle rails bigger than 8 x 8.5 mm are also available. If you are not sure which saddle rail type you have or if you need further informa­tion, contact your SCOTT dealer.
To mount the saddle unscrew the transversal fixing bolt (d) as far as possible without loosening the lock nut on the outer side of the clamping device. In gen­eral, it is not necessary to take the mechanism completely apart, if it is already equipped with the correct outer clamps for your saddle.
If you do find it necessary to unscrew the single fixing bolt completely, remove it from the clamping device. This releases the outer clamping parts. The inner clamping parts are typically held in position with a rubber retention plate.
Mount the saddle rails into the inner clamping parts, add the outer parts and re-insert the fixing bolt. If the width of the saddle rails does not fit exactly into the clamp grooves, do not try to force them in. The clamping mechanism or the saddle rails could break and result in an accident and/or injuries to the rider.
Use a different saddle model (e) or contact your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
When choosing another saddle, observe that there are round and ovalized
G
rails. Replace the fitting pieces of the clamp accordingly.
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DANG ER!
Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month according to the
G
values indicated directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
DANG ER!
Poorly tightened or loosening bolts can fail. Risk of accident!
G
b ca e fd
If the saddle rails fit into the clamp grooves, slide the saddle on the seat post and ensure that the clamp is positioned midway along the total length of the rails (f).
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Position the saddle so that its upper surface is parallel to the ground. Tighten the bolt gradually and make sure
1) the clamping device is still accurately mounted on the carbon seat post head and
2) the clamp is tightening evenly around each rail.
Once there is uniform hold on both rails, tighten the bolt gradually with a torque wrench (a) until you have reached the maximum torque value indicated in New­ton metres (Nm) on the seat post.
DANG ER!
Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month according to the
G
values indicated directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
DANG ER!
Poorly tightened or loosening bolts can fail. Risk of accident!
G
COCKPIT ADJUSTMENT
Brake lever reach adjustment on SCOTT road bikes and SCOTT cyclo­cross bikes
With road bikes the clearance between brake lever/shifter and handlebar can be adjusted to a minor degree. This gives riders with small hands the convenience of bringing the brake levers closer to the handlebars.
The first phalanx respectively of the index and the middle finger must reach around the brake lever (b). Braking from the top with your hands on the upper end of the brake grips is not an alternative in the long run and in hazardous situ­ations, you need more manual force and cannot support yourself appropriately.
In the case of Shimano’s Dura-Ace unscrew the chrome cover and tighten the screw positioned in the front (c). In the case of the Ultegra you need special insert pieces (d). In the case of both Di2 models you reach the screws from the rear, after you have removed the hoods.
In the case of SRAM start by setting the cam disc on the slightly pulled and inward moved shifters. Screw in the screw positioned behind the hood in the body by using an Allen key.
In the case of flat bars there is a small adjusting bolt where the brake hose of a side-pull brake runs into the brake lever unit or on the lever itself.
Check the proper adjustment and functioning of the brake system subsequent­ly, as described in the chapter “Brakes” and/or in the manuals of the brake manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD.
If you have problems reaching the levers, please contact your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
Make sure you cannot pull the brake levers all the way to the handlebars (e).
G
Your maximum braking force must be reached short of this point!
DANG ER!
Note that the bolted connections of the stem, handlebars and brakes have
G
to be tightened to the specified torques (f). You will find the respective values in the chapter “Recommended torque settings for your SCOTT bike” or in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD. If you disregard the prescribed values, the components may come loose or break. This can lead to a severe crash.
NOTE!
In the case of hydraulic brakes and disc brakes follow the manual of the
I
brake manufacturer, which you can find on this SCOTT info CD. If you are in
doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
NOTE!
Some manufacturers offer brake levers/shifters which are suitable for small
I
hands. If you have any problems with the brake lever reach, contact your
SCOTT dealer.
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Adjustment of handlebar tilt and brake lever/shifter units on SCOTT road bikes and SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes
The straight extensions below the drops should be parallel to the ground or point slightly downwards towards the rear (a). The grips of the brake lever/shift­er units are horizontal or point slightly upwards. The ends of the brake lever/ shifter units should meet an imaginary extension of the bottom line of the drops.
What to bear in mind with aero bars on SCOTT triathlon bikes and SCOTT time trial machines
In triathlon sport and time trial, where a particularly aerodynamic seating posi­tion is important, so-called aero bars (e) are commonly used. With these aero models the shifters are often positioned at the handlebar ends, the brake levers at the ends of bull-horn handlebars.
Shifting the brake levers/shifters is a job best left to your SCOTT dealer, as it involves retaping the handlebars afterwards.
To adjust the tilt of the handlebars, release the Allen bolt(s) on the underside or front side of the stem. Turn the handlebars to the desired position. Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem.
Carefully retighten the bolt(s) with the torque wrench. Make sure the upper and lower clamping slots of the stem are parallel and identical in width (b). If you have a stem with several bolts, tighten them evenly in a cross pattern (c) by using a torque wrench and observe the recommended torque values.
Check by trying to rotate the handlebars relative to the stem and tighten the bolt a little more, if necessary (d).
Use a torque wrench and do not exceed the maximum torque values given in the chapter “Recommended torque settings for your SCOTT bike” or in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD. If you disre­gard the prescribed values, the components may come loose or break. This can lead to a severe crash.
When you ride with your back in a horizontal position, the brake levers are out of reach and the reaction time is longer, which makes your stopping distance longer. For this reason it is very important to anticipate problems when riding.
Within certain limits the position of the handlebars can be adjusted according to your personal preferences. That means that the straight part of the aero bars should point downwards or upwards to an only minor degree. The basic handle­bars should be parallel to the ground or point slightly upwards. Make sure your forearms are always comfortably rested, i.e. your elbows should project beyond the armrests a little towards the rear (f). Bring the armrests in a position which allow you to breathe freely.
DANG ER!
Note that the distance you need to stop your bike increases, while riding
G
with the hands on the top handlebars or in aerodynamic position. The brake
levers are not always within easy reach.
CAUTION!
SCOTT triathlon bikes and SCOTT time trial machines have specific riding
A
characteristics. Make yourself familiar with your new SCOTT triathlon bike or with your new SCOTT time trial machine in an unfrequented area and ap­proach the riding characteristics step by step.
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3
4
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BRAKES
Brakes (a) are used for adjusting one’s speed to the surrounding terrain and traffic. In an emergency situation, the brakes must bring your SCOTT bike to a halt as quickly as possible.
In the event of such emergency brakings, the rider’s weight shifts forward abruptly, thus reducing the load on the rear wheel. The rate of deceleration is primarily limited by the danger of the rear wheel losing contact with the ground (b), resulting in an overturning of the SCOTT bike and, secondly, by the grip of the tyres on the road. Such a problem becomes particularly acute when riding downhill. Therefore, in case of an emergency braking you should try to shift your weight towards the rear and the ground as far as possible.
Actuate both brakes simultaneously (c) and bear in mind that, due to the weight transfer, the front brakes can generate a far better braking effect on a surface with good grip.
Make yourself familiar with the operation before you set off for the first time. Practise braking on different kinds of surfaces in an area free of traffic.
Wet weather reduces the braking power. Actuate the brakes carefully when riding on wet or slippery ground, as the tyres can easily slip away. Therefore, reduce your speed when riding in such conditions.
There are various types of brake systems that may be subject to the following problems:
Too long braking or brake dragging can result in an overheating of the rim brakes. This can damage the inner tube or make the tyre slip on the rim causing a sudden loss of air which could lead to a serious accident in the process.
With disc brakes (d) prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake pads can lead to an overheating of the brake system. This can result in a reduction of the braking power or brake failure. Risk of accident!
When riding downhill, get used to braking hard and then releasing the brake again, whenever the road surface and the situation allows for it. If you are in doubt about the braking action, stop and let the brake system cool down.
DANG ER!
The assignment of brake lever to brake calliper can vary, e.g. left lever acts
G
on front brake (c). Have a look at the SCOTT bike card and check whether the brake lever of the front brake is on the side you are used to (right or left). If it is not, ask your SCOTT dealer to switch the brake levers before you set off for the first time.
DANG ER!
Be careful while getting used to the brakes. Practise emergency stops in a
G
place clear of traffic until you are comfortable controlling your SCOTT bike.
This can save you from having accidents in road traffic.
DANG ER!
Wet weather reduces the braking effect and the road grip of the tyres. Be
G
aware of longer stopping distances when riding in the rain, reduce your
speed and actuate the brakes carefully.
DANG ER!
Ensure that the braking surfaces and brake pads are absolutely free of wax,
G
grease and oil (e). Risk of accident!
CAUTION!
When replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the appropri-
A
ate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts (f). Your SCOTT
dealer will be pleased to help you.
NOTE!
Be sure to read the manuals of the brake manufacturers on this SCOTT info
I
CD before you start to readjust or to service the brake or before doing any
work whatsoever.
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RIM BRAKES
Racing and side-pull brakes
Operation and wear
Actuating the levers on the handlebars (a) and cables (b) causes a brake pad to be pressed against a brake surface. The ensuing friction slows down the wheel. If water, dirt or oil come into contact with one of the braking surfaces, this changes the coefficient of friction and deceleration is reduced. This is why brakes respond with a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather.
In order to maintain their effectiveness, brakes need to be checked and read­justed regularly.
The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well as to the rims. Frequent rides in the rain and dirt and over hilly terrain can accelerate wear on both braking surfaces. Some rims are provided with wear indicators, e.g. grooves or circular indentations. If the rim is worn down to the point where the grooves or indentations are no longer visible, they need to be replaced. Once the abrasion of the rim has reached a certain critical point, the rim may break under the tyre pressure. This can make the wheel jam or the inner tube burst, both of which can cause an accident. Risk of falling!
Functional check
Test the brakes in stationary by firmly pulling the brake levers towards the handlebars. The brake pads of rim brakes must hit the rim evenly with their entire surface without touching the tyre during braking, in open condition or in between.
Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims and still suf­ficiently thick. You can judge the wear of the brake pads by the appearance of grooves. If the pads are worn down to the bottom of the grooves (c), it is time to replace them. Be sure to observe the appropriate instructions of the respective manufacturer.
See your SCOTT dealer and ask him to examine the remaining thickness of the rims when you are through your second set of brake pads at the latest. Your SCOTT dealer has special measuring devices for determining the remaining thickness of the rims.
Both brake arms must hit the rim simultaneously, when you actuate the brake lever. They must keep off the tyre.
A correctly adjusted brake is only ensured if all of these checks have been made successfully.
DANG ER!
Brake cables that are damaged (d), e.g. frayed, should be replaced imme-
G
diately, as they can otherwise fail in a critical moment, possibly causing a
crash!
DANG ER!
Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims requires a
G
considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting the brake pads is a job
best left to your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
Have your rims regularly inspected and measured by your SCOTT dealer (e).
G
Synchronising and readjusting
With dual pivot brakes, turn the small (headless) screw located at the side or on top of the calliper (f), until the left and right brake pad are at the same distance from the rim.
Also check whether the bolt by which the brake is screwed to the frame is still tightened to the proper torque, i.e. according to the torque value given in the chapter “Recommended torque settings for your SCOTT bike”.
The brake levers must always remain clear of the handlebars. You should not even be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars in the event of an emer­gency stop. If this is the case, however, observe the following chapter “Synchro­nising and readjusting”.
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The position of the brake lever where the brake starts to act, also referred to as pressure point, can be adjusted to the size of the hand as well as to individual convenience by readjusting the brake cable. Make absolutely sure you cannot pull the brake lever all the way to the handlebar grip.
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With an unapplied brake the brake pads should not be too close to the rim sides, otherwise they could drag along the rim during riding. Before making this adjustment, observe the notes in the chapter “Brake lever reach adjustment on SCOTT road bikes and SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes”.
With ongoing brake pad wear, the pressure point at the brake lever moves to­wards the handlebars. Check the free travel at regular intervals; it should not be longer than a quarter of the whole travel. For readjustment turn the knurled nut or bolt (a) through which the cable runs into the brake body until the lever has the desired travel. Test the brakes subsequently in a place free of traffic.
DANG ER!
Always test the brakes’ function when stationary after adjusting them, mak-
G
ing sure the brake pads engage fully with the rim without touching the tyre when you pull them hard. Make sure you cannot pull the lever all the way to the handlebars.
Cross/Cantilever brakes
Some SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes have cantilever brakes (b) which provide wider clearance for muddy tyres and are sometimes fitted with additional brake levers also allowing braking from the upper part of the handlebars.
Operation and wear
Cantilever brake designs have two brake arms mounted separately on either side of the rim. When actuating the brake lever, both arms are pressed together by the cable, the pads touching the rim. and the ensuing friction slows down the wheel. If water, dirt or oil come into contact with one of the braking surfaces, this changes the coefficient of friction and deceleration is reduced. This is why brakes respond with a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather. In order to maintain their effectiveness, brakes need to be checked and readjusted regu­larly (c).
The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well as to the rims. Frequent rides in the rain and dirt and over hilly terrain can accelerate wear on both braking surfaces. Some rims are provided with wear indicators, e.g. grooves or circular indentations. If the rim is worn down to the point where the grooves or indentations are no longer visible, they need to be replaced. Once the abrasion of the rim has reached a certain critical point, the rim may break under the tyre pressure. This can make the wheel jam or the inner tube burst, both of which can cause an accident. Risk of falling!
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Functional check
Test the brakes in stationary (d) by firmly pulling the brake levers towards the handlebars. The brake pads of rim brakes must hit the rim evenly with their entire surface without touching the tyre during braking, in open condition or in between.
Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims. Are the brake pads still sufficiently thick? You can judge the wear of the brake pads by the appearance of grooves. If the pads are worn down to the bottom of the grooves, it is time to replace them. Be sure to observe the appropriate instruc­tions of the respective manufacturer.
The brake levers must always remain clear of the handlebars. You should not even be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars in the event of an emer­gency stop. If this is the case, however, observe the following chapter “Synchro­nising and readjusting”.
See your SCOTT dealer and ask them to examine the remaining thickness of the rims when you have worn through your second set of brake pads at the latest. Your SCOTT dealer has special measuring devices for determining the remain­ing thickness of the rims. The brake pads must hit the rim simultaneously, first touching it with the front portion of their surface. At the moment of first contact the rear portion of the pads should be a millimetre away from the braking sur­face. Viewed from the top the brake pads form a “V“ with the trough pointing to the front (e). This setting is to prevent the brake pads from screeching when applied. A correctly adjusted brake is only ensured if all of these checks have been made successfully.
DANG ER!
Brake cables which are damaged, e.g. frayed, must be replaced immediate-
G
ly, as they can otherwise fail in a critical moment, possibly causing a crash!
DANG ER!
Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims (f) requires a
G
considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting the brake pads is a job best left to your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
Have your rims regularly inspected and measured by your SCOTT dealer.
G
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Synchronising and readjusting
Almost all brake designs have a bolt located next to one or both brake callipers for adjusting the spring preload (a). Turn the bolt slowly and watch how the gap changes between brake pads and rim.
Adjust the spring in a way that the gaps are equal on either side with an unap­plied brake and the brake pads touch the rim simultaneously during braking.
Adjusting the brake lever reach
With disc brakes the brake levers can be adjusted to the size of your hands, too, allowing you to operate them with optimal effectiveness (e).
For more information see the chapter “Brake lever reach adjustment on SCOTT road bikes and SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes” and the original manual of the brake manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD.
The position of the brake lever where the brake starts to act, also referred to as pressure point, can be adjusted to the size of the hand as well as to individual convenience by readjusting the brake cable.
Make absolutely sure you cannot pull the brake lever all the way to the handle­bar grip. With an unapplied brake the brake pads should not be too close to the rim sides, otherwise they could drag along the rim during riding. Before making this adjustment, observe the notes in the chapter “Brake lever reach adjustment on SCOTT road bikes and SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes”.
With ongoing brake pad wear, the pressure point at the brake lever moves to­wards the handlebars. Check the free travel at regular intervals; it should not be longer than a quarter to a third of the whole travel. If necessary, readjust at the additional brake levers on the handlebars (b). Turn the adjusting bolt anticlock­wise.
If no additional brake levers are installed, readjust at the cable stop at the fork or the frame (c). Release the lock nut and undo the slotted adjusting screw anti­clockwise. If the free travel complies with your wishes, hold the adjusting screw tight and turn the lock nut against the cable stop until you feel a resistance.
DANG ER!
Always test the brakes’ function when stationary after adjusting them, mak-
G
ing sure the brake pads hit the rim evenly with the entire surface (d) without touching the tyre when you pull them hard. Make sure you cannot pull the lever all the way to the handlebars.
After adjusting check the functioning and make sure the brake pads do not drag when releasing the brake lever and spinning the wheel.
DISC BRAKES
Operation and wear
The most striking feature of disc brakes (f) is their outstanding braking effect. They respond a lot faster in wet conditions than rim brakes do and achieve their normal high braking power within a very short time. They require little mainte­nance and do not wear down the rims as rim brakes do. Disc brakes consist of the brake calliper, the rotor, the brake lines (hydraulic) or cables (mechanical) as well as the brake lever unit. Actuating the brake lever compresses the hydraulic pistons through hydraulic pressure or mechanically, pushing the brake pads against the rotor.
The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well as to the rotors. Frequent rides in the rain and dirt can accelerate wear on both brak­ing surfaces. Depending on the manufacturer and the model there are different ways of checking the brake pads and rotors for their wear limits.
DANG ER!
New brake pads have to be bedded in before they reach their optimal
G
braking performance. Accelerate your SCOTT bike about 30 to 50 times to around 30 kmh and bring it to a halt each time. This procedure is finished, when the force required at the lever for braking has stopped decreasing.
DANG ER!
Disc brakes get hot in use. For this reason do not touch the brakes directly
G
after stopping, especially after a long downhill ride.
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DANG ER!
Dirty brake pads and rotors can lead to drastically reduced braking power.
G
Therefore, make sure the brake remains free of oil and other fluids, espe­cially when you clean your SCOTT bike or grease the chain. Dirty brake pads can under no circumstances be cleaned, they must be replaced! Rotors can be cleaned with special brake cleaners or with warm water and mild soap.
DANG ER!
Unusual noises (scratching, chafing etc.) during braking and/or a noticea-
G
ble change of the braking force (stronger or weaker) are indications that the brake pads are soiled or worn down (a). Check the brake pads and replace them, if necessary. Otherwise you risk further damage, e.g. to the rotor, or even an accident due to brake failure! If you are in doubt, contact your SCOTT dealer.
CAUTION!
If your SCOTT bike has disc brakes, be sure to mount the safety locks (b)
A
before transporting your bike with the wheels dismounted.
Hydraulic disc brakes
Functional check
Regularly check the lines and connections for leaks while pulling on the lever. Contact your SCOTT dealer immediately in the event of a brake liquid leakage. A leak in the brake lines can render the brake ineffective. Risk of accident!
Wear and maintenance
Hydraulic disc brakes have a mechanism which automatically compensates for the worn down brake pads. The brake lever travel does not change (c).
Check the pads for wear at regular intervals (d) by following the service instruc­tions in the manuals of the respective manufacturer.
DANG ER!
Loose connections and leaky brake lines drastically impair braking power.
G
If you find leaks in the brake system or buckled lines, contact your SCOTT dealer immediately!
DANG ER!
If your brake system works with DOT brake fluid, the latter needs to be re-
G
placed regularly according to the intervals prescribed by the manufacturer.
DANG ER!
Do not transport your SCOTT road bike with saddle and handlebars upside
G
down – risk of brake failure. Never turn it upside down for repair works (e).
CAUTION!
Do not open the brake lines. Brake fluid that can be very unhealthy and
A
damaging to the paint could leak out and render the brake ineffective.
CAUTION!
A heavily clogged brake can lead to squeaking noises during braking.
A
NOTE!
Pull the brake lever and secure it with a strong elastic strap (f), when trans-
I
porting your SCOTT bike with hydraulic disc brakes. This will prevent air from entering the system.
NOTE!
Read in any case the manual of the brake manufacturer on this SCOTT info
I
CD carefully before removing the wheel or doing any maintenance work. Improper operation can lead to brake failure.
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Mechanical disc brakes
Functional check
The more brake pads of mechanical disc brakes wear down, the longer is the brake lever travel. Regularly check whether you get a positive braking response before the lever touches the handlebars (a). Make sure the brake cables are in sound condition!
NOTE!
Read in any case the manual of the brake manufacturer on this SCOTT info
I
CD carefully before removing the wheel or doing any maintenance work. Improper operation can lead to brake failure.
DANG ER!
Damaged cables should be replaced immediately, as they can snap. Risk of
G
accident!
Wear and maintenance
To a certain extent, wear of the brake pads can be compensated directly at the additional brake lever, if mounted. Unscrew the knurled lock nut on the bolt through which the cable enters the grip and then unscrew the bolt (b) until the lever has the desired travel. Retighten the lock nut by taking care that the slot of the bolt does not face upward or forward, as this would permit an unnecessarily high amount of water or dirt to enter.
As an alternative, the cable can be retightened directly at the brake in the same way.
After readjusting check the functioning and make sure the brake pads do not drag when releasing the brake lever and spinning the wheel.
Repeated readjustment at the brake lever makes the arm on the brake calliper change its position. This can reduce braking power and result in a complete brake failure in an extreme case. Risk of accident!
Some models offer further ways of adjusting the brakes directly at the brake calliper, though this requires a certain amount of skill (c). Read the manual of the brake manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD carefully before adjusting the brake. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
Repeated readjustment at the brake cable can drastically reduce the maxi-
G
mum braking performance.
GEARS
DERAILLEUR GEARS
The gears (d+e) of your SCOTT bike serve to adjust the gear ratio to the terrain you are riding on and the desired speed.
A low gear (where in the case of derailleur gears the chain runs on the small chainring and a large sprocket (f)) allows you to climb steep hills with moderate pedalling force. You must, however, pedal at a faster pace or higher frequency. High gears (large chainring, small sprocket) are for riding downhill. Every turn of the pedals takes you many metres forward at correspondingly high speed.
In general, your pedalling speed, also referred to as cadence, should be higher than 60 strokes a minute. Racing cyclists pedal at a rate between 90 and 110 strokes a minute on level ground. When climbing uphill, your cadence will natu­rally fall off somewhat. Your pedalling should, however, always continue to flow.
Continue pedalling during gear shifting, however, at clearly reduced pedalling force. In particular when shifting through the chainrings continue pedalling slowly and without force.
CAUTION!
Practise switching gears in a place free of traffic until you are familiar with
A
the functioning of the brake lever/shifter unit or the shifter of your SCOTT bike.
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NOTE!
Read in any case carefully the manual of the gear manufacturer on this
I
SCOTT info CD. Make yourself familiar with your new gears in an area free of traffic, if necessary. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
Operation and control
Derailleur gears always work according to the following principle:
Large front chainring – high/heavy gear – higher gear ratio Small front chainring – low/easy gear – lower gear ratio Large rear sprocket – low/easy gear – lower gear ratio Small rear sprocket – high/heavy gear – higher gear ratio
Normally, the shifters are mounted as follows: Shift lever right – rear sprockets Shift lever left – front chainrings
Modern SCOTT road bikes can have up to 33 gears. As there are, however, overlapping ranges, actually 15 to 18 gears are usable. It is not advisable to use gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain, as this reduces power transmission efficiency and hastens wear of the chain.
The chain runs unfavourably when the smallest chainring is used with one of the two or three outermost (smallest) sprockets (a) or when the largest chainring is used with one of the inmost (largest) sprockets (b).
The bottom bracket is the interface between cranks and frame. There are dif­ferent designs, in some cases the bearing spindle is part of the bottom bracket, in some other cases it is integrated into the right crank. Sealed bottom brackets are maintenance free and delivered without play ex works. The bottom bracket in the frame must be checked for play at regular intervals.
Also check at regular intervals whether the cranks are firmly attached to the bearing spindle or whether there is play. Grab the crank and try to jiggle it forcefully. It must be absolutely free of play. If you notice any play, contact your SCOTT dealer immediately.
Depending on the gear system, gear shifting is initiated by actuating a brake lever/shifter unit (c) or a shifter (d) in the case of flat bars. Continue pedalling during gear shifting, however, at reduced pedalling force.
The most common brake lever/shifter units and their operation are explained in the following. It is, however, also possible that your new SCOTT road bike has a gear system that is not mentioned below.
In the case of Campagnolo Ergopower (e) you shift with the shifter located be- hind the brake lever to the larger chainrings or sprockets by moving it with the index or middle finder inwards. By pressing with the thumb on the shifter inside the unit the chain moves on the smaller chainrings or sprockets. By pressing the shifter once you can shift up to two chainrings or three sprockets at a time.
In the case of Shimano Dual Control (f) brake lever/shifter units you shift to the larger chainrings or sprockets by moving the entire brake lever inwards. You can shift up to two chainrings or three sprockets per gear shift. By moving the small lever alone that is located behind the brake lever the chain moves towards the smaller chainrings or sprockets, but only one sprocket per tap.
The Shimano Di2 is the electronic version of the high-quality drive groups from Shimano. Instead of cables the signal is transmitted by wires. The rear and the front derailleurs are moved by small electrical motors. The power supply is provided by a rechargeable battery that is mounted to the frame or in the seat post.
The shifters are positioned and actuated like the mechanical gears: With a Di2 you must only press control buttons, instead of pressing the entire brake lever or the lever positioned behind inward as is the case with usual dual control shifters from Shimano. Shift to the larger sprockets by pressing the long control button on the side of the brake lever. When you press the triangular control button that is behind the brake lever the chain moves onto the smaller cogwheels.
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SRAM brake levers/shifters (a) have only one shifter that is located behind the brake lever. With one complete sweep of the shifter, the rear derailleur shifts in a higher gear by one to two chainrings or three sprockets. With a short sweep the chain changes to the next smaller chainring or sprocket.
CAUTION!
Practise switching gears in a place free of traffic until you are familiar with
A
the functioning of the brake lever/shifter units or the shifters of your SCOTT road bike.
With Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo bar end shifters (b) for triathlon and time trial use the shifting lever is pressed downward to move the chain to the smaller sprockets to achieve a higher gear and to the smaller chainrings to achieve a lower gear. By pulling the shifter upwards you can shift to the larger chainrings or sprockets.
The shifters for flat bars (c) are located underneath the handlebars. The right­hand, big shifter is actuated with the thumb. The chain moves on larger sprock­ets, i.e. to lower gears. The smaller shifter is actuated either with the index finger (d) or with the thumb and shifts into the other direction. By actuating the big shifter with the thumb on the left side you shift to the larger chainring, i.e. to a higher gear ratio.
DANG ER!
Always wear straight-cut trousers or use trouser clips or the like to make
G
sure your trousers do not get caught in the chain or the chainrings. Risk of
falling!
DANG ER!
Shifting gears under load, i.e. while pedalling hard, can make the chain slip.
G
At the front derailleur the chain may even slip off the chainrings and result in an accident! At least the service life of the chain will be shortened considerably.
DANG ER!
If there is play between bearing shaft and cranks, they can slip off and sus-
G
tain damage. Risk of falling!
CAUTION!
Avoid gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain, as this will
A
increase wear!
CAUTION!
It is crucial when switching gears to continue pedalling smoothly and
A
without too much force. Do not shift under load, and in particular not at the front derailleur, as this will shorten the service life of your chain considerably. Furthermore, this can lead to chain-suck, i.e. the chain can get jammed between chainstay and chainrings.
NOTE!
Read in any case carefully the manual of the gear manufacturer on this
I
SCOTT info CD. Make yourself familiar with your new gears in an area free of traffic, if necessary. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
Checking and readjusting
The derailleur gears of your bike were carefully adjusted by your SCOTT dealer before delivery. However, Bowden cables may stretch a little on the first kilo­metres, making gear shifting imprecise and the chain rattle.
Adjusting the rear (e) and front derailleur (f) accurately is a job for an experi­enced mechanic. If you want to try to do the adjustment on your own, observe in addition the manual of the gear manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD. If you have any problems with the gears, contact your SCOTT dealer.
NOTE!
For your own safety, bring your SCOTT bike to your SCOTT dealer for its
I
first inspection after 100 to 300 kilometres, 5 to 15 hours of initial use or
four to six weeks, and at the very latest after three months.
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Adjusting the rear derailleur
Increase the tension of the Bowden cable by turning the adjustable downtube cable stop (a) or the adjusting bolt through which it runs into the rear derailleur (b). To do so, shift to the smallest sprocket and turn the bolts anticlockwise in half turns until the cable is slightly tensioned.
After tensioning the Bowden cable check whether the chain immediately climbs onto the next larger sprocket. To find out you lift the rear wheel and turn the cranks by hand or ride the SCOTT bike and shift through the gears.
If the chain easily climbs onto the next larger sprocket, check whether it just as easily shifts to the small sprockets. If it does not, release the respective adjusting bolt a little. You may need several tries.
CAUTION!
Adjusting the front and rear derailleur accurately is a job for an experienced
A
mechanic. Observe in any case the manual of the gear manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD. If you have any problems with the gears, contact your SCOTT dealer.
NOTE!
Ask a helper to lift the rear wheel or hang the SCOTT bike into a work stand.
I
By turning the cranks and shifting through you can easily check the func-
tion.
Shift with the right shift lever to the highest gear. The inner cable is relaxed and the chain running on the smallest sprocket. Look from the rear of the bicycle at the cassette and check whether the teeth of the smallest sprocket and the teeth of the top guide pulley are all in a perfectly vertical line. If necessary, correct the position of the jockey wheels by means of the limit screws (d). The limit screws on rear derailleurs are often marked “H” for high gear and “L” for low gear. High gear means that the chain is running on the smallest sprocket.
If the screws are not marked, you will have to find out by trial and error. Turn one of the screws by counting the number of turns and watch the rear derailleur. If it does not move, you are turning the wrong one. Turn back the counted rotations to find its original position.
Turn the screw clockwise to move the rear derailleur towards the wheel and anticlockwise to move it away from the wheel.
Shift carefully to the largest (inmost) sprocket (e) and check whether the teeth of the sprocket and the teeth of the guide pulley are all in a perfectly vertical line. Turn the limit screw marked “L” clockwise until the rear derailleur stops moving towards the spokes and can neither be moved by actuating the shift lever nor by pushing it with your hand (f). Carefully turn the cranks while checking.
This adjustment prevents the chain from getting stuck between sprocket and spokes or the rear derailleur or the derailleur cage from touching the spokes, which could result in damage to the spokes, the rear derailleur and the frame. In the worst case, this could result in a fall or accident.
Adjusting the limit stops
The rear derailleur is equipped with limit screws (c) which limit the movement range of the derailleur, thus preventing the derailleur and chain from colliding with the spokes or the chain from dropping off the smallest sprocket. The limit screws are adjusted by your SCOTT dealer. They do not alter their position dur­ing normal use.
If your SCOTT road bike fell over to the chain side or if you mount another wheel, it is imperative that you check the limit stops.
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DANG ER!
Do a test ride in a place free of traffic, after adjusting the gears of your
G
bicycle.
CAUTION!
If your SCOTT road bike has tipped over or the rear derailleur received a
A
blow, the rear derailleur or its mount, also referred to as the derailleur hang­er, might be bent. It is advisable to check its range of movement and readjust the limit screws, if necessary, after such an incident or after mounting a new rear wheel on your bike.
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NOTE!
Let your SCOTT dealer maintain and service your SCOTT road bike regularly.
I
Adjusting the front derailleur
The range within which the front derailleur (a) keeps the chain on the chainring without itself touching the chain is very small. If the chain tends to jump off the chainring, you will need to reduce the movement range in the same way as with the rear derailleur, i.e. by turning the limit screws marked “H“ and “L“ (b). The limit screws are adjusted by your SCOTT dealer. They do not alter their position during normal use.
Start by shifting to the large chainring (front) and the smallest sprocket (rear) (c). Turn in the outer limit screw (“H“) exactly to the point where the chain does not touch the front derailleur, even under heavy load. And only at the point where the chain does not move any more from the middle to the large chain­ring, the limit screw can be released a little.
Continue by shifting to the smallest chainring (front) and the biggest sprocket (rear). Turn in the inner limit screw (“L“) exactly to the point where the chain does not touch the front derailleur. And only at the point where the chain does not move any more from the middle to the small chainring, the limit screw can be released a little.
This adjustment prevents the chain from falling off, which would suddenly inter­rupt the drive involving the risk of an accident. In cases of doubt this adjustment is a job best left to your SCOTT dealer.
As with the rear derailleur, the cable of the front derailleur is subject to length­ening which leads to a reduced precision in gear changing. If necessary, shift to the small chainring and increase the tension of the Bowden cable by turning the adjusting bolt through which it passes at the entry to the downtube cable stop.
DANG ER!
Adjusting the front derailleur is a very delicate job. Improper adjustment
G
can cause the chain to jump off, thus interrupting the power train. Risk of
falling!
CAUTION!
Do a test ride in a place free of traffic, after adjusting the gears of your
A
bicycle.
Shimano Di2
Adjustment and maintenance
If you wish, your SCOTT dealer can also change the functioning of the Di2 control buttons (e). The change has to be done with a special test device from Shimano which is also used for troubleshooting.
If you have smaller hands and want to position the levers closer to the han­dlebars, there are special adjusting screws on the handlebars. The handling of these screws is described in the chapter “Brake lever reach adjustment on SCOTT road bikes and SCOTT cyclo-cross bikes”.
To adjust the rear derailleur shift into one of the middle gears. Press the button at the front switch under the handlebars until the control lamp illuminates red (f). The fine adjustment of the rear derailleur can now be carried out. Turn the crank and listen to the noise of the chain while running.
If there is a noise when the chain rolls off, press the front lever. With every push the rear derailleur moves inward by one decimillimetre. If the noise gets louder, press the rear lever.
The rear derailleur moves outwards in steps of one decimillimetre. Once the chain runs quietly, press the button at the switch once again, the red light goes out. Finish by shifting through all the gears to check the proper functioning.
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DANG ER!
Always check after an accident whether the guide plates of the front derail-
G
leur are still parallel to the chainrings (d). Make sure they do not touch the large chainring which would block the drive. Risk of accident!
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Carefully shift through the gears until the chain runs on the biggest sprocket. If the shifting is not smooth, readjust once again.
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Continue turning the crank carefully and make sure the rear derailleur cage does not collide with the spokes and the chain does not move beyond the biggest sprocket. While doing so, press your thumb against the rear derailleur (a).
You can check the battery’s state of charge at any time. To do so, press one of the control buttons and keep it in this position for half a second at least. The LED on the control unit indicates the state of charge:
In principle, the limit stops are adjusted like the limit stops of the mechanical gears (b). Be careful when shifting to the lowest and biggest gears in order to check the position of the limit stops.
DANG ER!
Make a test ride in a place free of traffic before you use your new Di2 gears
G
(c).
NOTE!
Read the manuals of the gear manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD.
I
Rechargeable battery
A new, fully charged battery allows you to ride approx. 1,000 to 2,000 km. If the battery is charged to around 25%, then this will be enough for around 250 kilometres.
Rechargeable batteries have no memory effect. The battery can therefore be recharged (d) without having run completely empty.
If the battery is dying, the front derailleur is the first to stop working. In this state you can still ride a few kilometres and change gears with the rear derailleur. The battery should, however, be recharged as soon as possible. When the recharge­able battery is empty, the rear derailleur remains in the last chosen gear. Shifting into another gear is no longer possible (e) !
– green light is on for about 2 seconds: state of charge of the battery 100 % (f) – green light blinks 5 times: state of the charge of the battery approx. 50 % – red light is on for about 2 seconds: state of the charge of the battery approx.
25 %
– red light blinks 5 times: state of charge of the battery empty
The capacity of the battery and hence the distance that you can ride drop grad­ually over time. This is unavoidable. You must replace the battery if the distance that you can ride is no longer sufficient for your requirements.
DANG ER!
Only use the supplied charger to charge the battery!
G
DANG ER!
If the rechargeable battery is not used for a longer period of time, it should
G
neither be empty nor full. Keep the nearly charged battery (50 % to 60 %) in a dry, cool place and out of the reach of children. After three months at the latest you should check the state of charge. Protect the contact areas of your rechargeable battery with the protective covers before storing the battery.
NOTE!
Charging of a (fully discharged) battery takes around one and a half hours.
i
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BICYCLE CHAIN
Regular and correct lubrication of your bicycle chain ensures enjoyable riding and prolongs its service life. It is not the quantity but the distribution and regular application of lubricant that counts. Clean the dirt and oil off your chain with a slightly oily rag from time to time (a). Special degreasers are not necessary; they even have a damaging effect.
Replacing these components is relatively expensive compared with the costs of a new chain. It is therefore advisable to check the condition of the chain at regular intervals.
Your SCOTT dealer has accurate measuring instruments to check the chain wear (c). Replacing the chain should ideally be left to an expert, as this requires special tools. In addition, you need to select a chain matching your gear system.
Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply chain oil, wax or grease to the chain links (b). To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto the rollers of the lower run of the chain while you turn the crank. Once this is done, turn the cranks a few more times; then let your SCOTT bike rest for a few min­utes so that the lubricant can disperse. Finally wipe off excess lubricant with a rag so that it does not spatter around during riding or can collect road dirt.
DANG ER!
Make sure the braking surfaces of the rims, the rotors and the brake pads
G
remain clear of lubricants, otherwise the brake can fail!
NOTE!
For the sake of the environment, use biodegradable lubricants only. Bear in
I
mind that some of the lubricant can end up on the ground, especially in wet conditions.
CHAIN MAINTENANCE
Although the chain is one of the wearing components of your SCOTT bike, there are still ways for you to prolong its life. Make sure the chain is lubricated regular­ly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only use gears which run the chain in the straightest line between the sprockets and chainrings and get into the habit of high cadence pedalling.
Chains on bicycles with derailleur gears are worn out after approx. 1,000 to 3,500 km or 50 to 125 hours of use. Heavily stretched chains impair the opera­tion of derailleur gears. Cycling with a worn-out chain also accelerates the wear of the sprockets and chainrings.
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DANG ER!
An improperly joined or heavily worn chain can break and cause an acci-
G
dent.
NOTE!
When replacing your chain, only use appropriate and suitable original spare
I
parts (d). Your SCOTT dealer will be pleased to help you.
WHEELS AND TYRES
The wheel consists of the hub, the spokes and the rim. The tyre is mounted onto the rim so that it encases the tube in the case of the most common system, i.e. the clincher or folding tyres. There is a rim tape running around the rim well (e) to protect the sensitive tube against the edges of the rim trough, which are often sharp.
Another system comprises the tubular tyres which are glued on specific rims. A third system comprises tubeless tyres which also require specific rims.
The wheels are subjected to considerable stress through the weight of the rider and any carried luggage as well as through bumpy road surfaces and terrain. Although wheels are manufactured with great care and delivered accurately trued, spokes and nipples can lose a little tension on the first kilometres. Ask your SCOTT dealer to check and true up the wheels after you have bedded them in over about 100 to 300 kilometres or 5 to 15 hours of use.
After the bedding-in period, check the wheels regularly (f). It will, however, rare­ly be necessary to tighten the spokes.
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CAUTION!
Truing (retruing) wheels is a difficult job which you should definitely leave
A
to your SCOTT dealer.
NOTES ON TYRES, INNER TUBES, RIM TAPE, INFLATION PRESSURE
The tyres should provide grip and traction. At the same time they should run smooth and enhance the rider’s comfort by absorbing small shocks. Both the rolling friction and the grip depend on the nature of the tyre carcass, the rubber compound and the tyre tread. Your SCOTT dealer will be pleased to help you choose from the numerous types of tyres.
If you want to mount a new tyre, you need to observe the sizing system and the actual size of the old tyre. The latter is specified in two different units on the side of the tyre. One of the sizes is the standardised size in millimetres which is more precise, e.g. the number sequence 23-622 means that the tyre is 23 mm wide when fully inflated and has an inner tyre diameter of 622 millimetres. The other size is indicated in inches (e.g. 23x7/8 or 700x23) (a).
Tyres must be inflated to the proper inflation pressure (b) to provide an optimal compromise between smooth running and riding comfort. Properly inflated tyres are also more resistant to punctures. An insufficiently inflated tyre can easily get pinched (“snakebite”) when it goes over a sharp kerb.
The air pressure recommended by the manufacturer is given on the tyre side (c) or on the type label. The lower of the two pressure specifications makes for better cushioning for lightweight riders and is therefore best for cycling on a rough surface.
Rolling resistance on level ground decreases with growing pressure, but so does comfort. Highly inflated tyres are therefore most suitable for heavy riders and for riding on tarred roads (d). Therefore, adjust the pressure to your weight and your riding habits.
Clincher and folding tyres and rim alone are not able to hold the air. Therefore, an inner tube has to be placed inside the tyre (f) to retain the air pressure.
Rims of clincher and folding tyres require in general a high-value rim tape over the complete width of the rim base. This rim tape protects the inner tube from the braking heat which could make the tyre burst.
In the case of tubular tyres that must be glued on the rim the tube is already integrated into the tyre and can be neither removed, nor patched in the case of a puncture. This type of tyre requires special rims without rim flanges.
If necessary, read the respective manuals on this SCOTT info CD before working on such kind of tyres.
Tubeless tyres can only be used in combination with specifically de­signed wheels. Pay attention to the manufacturer’s type designations (e.g. “2way-fit”/“tubeless ready“).
With reduced pressure tubeless tyres can be used as clincher tyres. The ap­propriate pressure for 75-kg / 165-lbs-cyclists is usually 7 bar and for 65-kg / 143-lbs-cyclists 6 bar. Make sure the pressure is not below 4.5 bar. Observe the marking on the tyre sides regarding the maximum pressure.
DANG ER!
Replace tyres with a worn tread or with brittle or frayed sides. Dampness
G
and dirt penetrating the tyre can cause damage to its inner structure. The
tube might burst. Risk of falling!
DANG ER!
If you mount a new tyre with another size than the standard tyre mounted,
G
it might be possible that the clearance between the front of your shoe and the wheel will be reduced when you ride at reduced speed. Also observe the space between fork and frame. Risk of accident!
Inflation pressure is often given in the old system of units, i.e. in psi (pounds per square inch). The table (e) gives the most common pressure values in terms of both systems.
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psi bar psi bar
80 5.5 115  7.9
85 5.9 120  8.3
90 6.2 125  8.6
95 6.6 130  9.0 100 6.9 135  9.3 105 7.2 140  9.7
110 7.6 145 10.0
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DANG ER!
If you mount wheels with carbon rims on your SCOTT road bike, you must
G
most probably change the brake pads, as conventional brake pads often do not provide the desired braking effect. It is essential to also observe the manu­als of the wheel manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD.
DANG ER!
Treat your tyres with care. Always ride your bicycle with the prescribed tyre
G
pressure and check the pressure at regular intervals, at least once a week. Riding with too low or too high air pressure may make the tyre come off the rim or burst.
DANG ER!
Clincher and folding tyres allowing an inflation pressure of five bars or more
G
have to be mounted on hook bead rims, identifiable by the designation “C”.
RIM TRUENESS AND SPOKE TENSION
For the true running of the wheel it is imperative that the tension exerted by the spokes is distributed evenly around the rim (d). If the tension of a single spoke changes, e.g. as a result of riding fast over a kerb or of a loose nipple, the tensile forces acting on the rim become unbalanced and the wheel will no longer run true. The functioning of the SCOTT bike may even be impaired before you no­tice the wobbling appearance of a wheel that has gone out of true.
With rim brakes the sides of the rims also serve as braking surfaces (e). An untrue wheel can impair your braking effect. It is therefore advisable to check the wheels for trueness from time to time. For this purpose lift the wheel off the ground and spin it with your hand. Watch the gap between the rim and the brake pads. If the gap varies by one millimetre or more, you should ask your SCOTT dealer to true up the wheel.
DANG ER!
Observe the maximum pressure value of the rim. The pressure is dependent
G
on the tyre width. You can find the values in the manuals of the rim or wheel
manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD.
VALVES
There is only one valve type in general use on SCOTT road bikes: The Sclaverand or Presta valve that is designed to withstand extremely high pressures (a). It has a plastic cap protecting the valve from dirt.
You first have to undo the small knurled nut a little and depress it carefully until air starts to escape (b). Check the nut is tightened and seated in its stem, otherwise air may slowly leak out. It can be hard to inflate tyres to the necessary pressure by using hand pumps. It is much easier with a foot-operated or a track pump equipped with a pressure gauge (c).
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DANG ER!
Do not ride with untrue wheels. In the case of extreme side-to-side wob-
G
bles, the brake pads of rim brakes can miss the rim and get caught in the
spokes! This normally instantly jams the wheel and throws you off your bicycle.
CAUTION!
Loose spokes must be tightened at once. Otherwise the load on the other
A
spokes and the rim will increase.
CAUTION!
Truing (retruing) wheels is a difficult job which you should definitely leave
A
to your SCOTT dealer (f).
CARBON WHEELS
As carbon wheels are made of carbon fibre reinforced plastic they come with particular aerodynamic properties and low weight.
In case you want to mount carbon wheels, ask your SCOTT dealer for advice.
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DANG ER!
The maximum overall weight of 120 kg / 264 lbs including rider, luggage
G
(rucksack) and SCOTT road bike must not be exceeded. Trailer towing is not permitted in general. Also observe the manuals of the wheel manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD.
DANG ER!
Check the condition of the brakes and make sure you only ride with brake
G
pads that are suitable for carbon rims!
CAUTION!
Observe possible weight restrictions in the case of carbon wheels. For more
A
information see the manuals of the wheel manufacturers on this SCOTT info
CD.
CAUTION!
The wheels are exclusively for use in road races (a) and triathlon sports. The
A
wheels are not suitable for riding on unpaved roads, off-road and for jumps etc. In addition, they are not suitable for towing a trailer (b) and for riding with heavy luggage.
Particularities of braking with carbon wheels
As the braking surfaces are made of carbon (c), there are some things to keep in mind. Only use the brake pads of wheel manufacturers (d) that are suitable for carbon wheels, as they are designed to suit such types of rims.
Carbon brake pads usually wear down faster than conventional brake pads. Keep in mind that the braking response of the rims needs getting used to, in particular in wet conditions. Therefore, test your brakes in a place free of traffic until you have full control of your bike.
The brake surfaces of the carbon rims (e) are sensitive to heat. Therefore, when you are riding in the mountains, avoid any drag braking. Riding downhill e.g. with a permanently activated rear wheel brake might lead to a heating up of the material and thus to a deformation.
The rim may sustain damage and the inner tube may burst, thus causing an accident. Always use both brakes simultaneously and release them intermittent­ly to allow the material to cool off. If you are in doubt, stop and let them cool down.
DANG ER!
Check the condition of the brake pads at short intervals, as they might wear
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down faster than with aluminium rims.
DANG ER!
Please note that wet weather reduces the braking effect considerably. Do
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not go for a ride, when it is about to rain or in wet conditions. Nevertheless, if you find yourself with your road bike on a wet or moist road, ride particularly carefully and at clearly reduced speed.
DANG ER!
Carbon rims are sensitive to heat. The glue of the tubular tyre can loosen
g
or the tube of a clincher or folding tyre can bust. Always use both brakes simultaneously and release them intermittently to allow the material to cool off. If you are in doubt, stop and let them cool down.
REPAIRING TYRE PUNCTURES
Punctures during cycling are the most common cause for flat tyres. However, as long as you have the necessary tools and a spare tube or a repair kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle ride. If your wheels are attached with quick-re­leases to the frame and the fork, you only need two tyre levers and a pump (f).
NOTE!
Before removing a wheel, read the chapters “Remounting the wheel” and
I
“Using quick-releases and thru axles”. If you are in doubt or if you have any
questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
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REMOVING THE WHEEL
If you have typical road bike rim brakes, open the quick-release lever at the brake (Shimano, SRAM) (a) or shift the pin in the brake lever/shifter unit on the handlebars (Campagnolo) (b).
If your bicycle has cantilever and V-brakes you first have to unhook the brake cable from the brake arm. To do this, grip the rim with one hand and press the brake pads and/or arms together. In this position the usually barrel shaped nipple of the lateral brake cable or the brake hose (of V-brakes) can easily be disengaged.
If you have disc brakes (hydraulic or mechanic), check the position of the brake pads through the inspection window. In this way you will be able to tell after the removal whether the brake pads are still in their correct position. Read the brake manufacturer’s manual.
If you have derailleur gears, you should shift the chain to the smallest sprock­et before removing the rear wheel. This shifts the rear derailleur right to the outside where it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel. Open the quick-release of the wheel, as described in the chapter “Using quick-releases and thru axles”.
If you cannot remove the wheel after releasing the nuts, this is due to the drop­out safety tabs. They are metal catches which engage with recesses in the drop­outs. Just release the quick-release adjusting nut a little and slip the wheel past the tabs.
You will find it easier to remove the rear wheel, when you pull the rear derailleur slightly backwards (c). Lift your SCOTT road bike a little off the ground and give the wheel a light blow with your hand so that it drops out.
DANG ER!
Rotors can become hot, so let them cool down before removing a wheel.
G
DANG ER!
If you purchased a SCOTT bike with hydraulic disc brakes, never turn your
G
SCOTT bike upside down for repair work, i.e. with the handlebars and sad­dle underneath, otherwise the brake can fail.
CAUTION!
Do not pull the (disc) brake lever with a removed wheel and make sure to
A
mount the safety locks when removing the wheel for a longer period of
time.
NOTE!
Observe the manuals of the brake and gear manufacturers on this SCOTT
I
info CD.
CLINCHER AND FOLDING TYRES
Tyre removal
Remove the cap and the fastening nut off the valve and deflate the tyre com­pletely. Press the tyre from the sides towards the centre of the rim around its entire circumference. This will ease the removal.
Apply a plastic tyre lever to one bead of the tyre about 5 cm beside the valve (d) and lever the tyre out of the rim in this area. Hold the tyre lever tight in its position. Slip the second tyre lever between rim and tyre at a distance of about ten centimetres on the other side of the valve and lever the next portion of the bead over the edge of the rim (e).
After levering a part of the tyre bead over the edge of the rim you should normally be able to slip off the whole tyre on one side by moving the tyre lever around the whole circumference. Now you can remove the inner tube (f). Make sure the valve does not get caught in the rim, as this can damage the inner tube. If necessary you can remove the whole tyre by pulling the other tyre bead off the rim.
Repair the puncture according to the manuals of the repair kit manufacturer or replace the inner tube by a new one.
When you have removed the tyre, you should also check the rim tape. It should lie squarely in the rim trough, covering all spoke nipples, and should neither be damaged nor brittle.
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In the case of double wall rims the tape must cover the entire rim base, but it should not be so broad as to stand up along the inside edges of the rim trough. Rim tapes for this type of rim should only be made of fabric or durable plastic. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
If the fabric of the tyre is destroyed by the perforating object, replace the
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tyre to be on the safe side.
DANG ER!
Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.
G
NOTE!
If you get a puncture en route, inflate the inner tube and bring it close to
I
your ear. In most cases you can hear the air coming out. At home you can help yourself with a bucket of water where you can locate the hole by the bub­bles. When you have found the hole, look for the corresponding place on the tyre and check it, as well. Often, you will find a foreign body sticking in the tyre, which ought to be removed. Otherwise another puncture can occur.
Tyre mounting
When mounting a tyre make sure no foreign matter, such as dirt or sand, gets inside the tyre and you do not damage the inner tube in the process.
Make sure the inner tube does not get pinched and squashed between the tyre and the rim. You can prevent this by pushing the inner tube into the hollow of the tyre (c) with a finger as you work along.
Work the tyre into the rim by approaching the valve symmetrically from both sides. Towards the end, you will have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards (d) to make the already mounted portion of the tyre slip towards the deepest part of the rim well. This will ease the job noticeably on the last centimetres.
Before fitting the tyre completely on the rim check again whether the inner tube lies properly inside the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the edge of the rim using the balls of your thumbs.
If this does not work, you will have to use the tyre levers (e). Make sure the bent ends point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not get damaged.
Push the valve subsequently a little into the tyre so that the inner tube does not get caught between the rim and the tyre beads. Check whether the valve stands upright. If not, dismount one bead again and reposition the inner tube.
To make sure the inner tube does not get pinched between the rim and the bead, move the tyre sideways back and forth between the sides of the rim. While doing so, also check whether the rim tape has shifted.
Inflate the inner tube to the desired pressure. The maximum pressure is indicat­ed on the side of the tyre.
Slip one bead of the tyre onto the rim. Using your thumbs, press one bead over the edge of the rim and then around the entire circumference. This should nor­mally be possible without using tools.
Stick the valve of the tube through the hole in the rim (a). Inflate the inner tube slightly so that it becomes round and push it into the tyre all the way round. Make sure not to leave any folds in the inner tube.
To finish mounting the tyre, start at the opposite side of the valve. Using your thumbs, press as much of the second bead of the tyre over the edge of the rim as you can (b).
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Check whether the tyre is properly seated by inspecting the fine witness line (f) on the tyre just above the rim edge. This line should be even to the rim all around the tyre. If it is not, deflate the tyre a little and check again. Starting from the maximum tyre pressure you can now reduce the pressure through the valve to suit your needs. Please observe the recommended tyre pressure range.
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TUBULAR TYRES
Tubular tyres are the first choice among professionals; they are basically dif­ferent from the most widely used chlincher or folding tyres and the inner tube system.
The tube is sewed into the tyre and must be glued on special tubular tyre rims (a). A reliable system is only provided by using a glue (b) suitable for rim and tyre which is applied in a careful and professional way. In case of a puncture the tyre must be replaced completely. As the glue is missing, the tyre will not sit as securely on the rim as before. Therefore, after a puncture ride back very careful­ly by taking the shortest possible way.
During long downhill rides there is the risk with the tubular tyre system that the glue softens and that the tyre will loose its secure fit. Risk of sudden pressure loss and risk of fall! Get, therefore, used to brake with both brakes simultane­ously (c). Do not let the brakes drag, but release the brakes from time to time to give the rims a chance to cool down a little. If you are in doubt, it is recommend­ed that you stop.
DANG ER!
Tubular tyres must be glued carefully on the rim by an expert. Insufficient
G
gluing can result in sudden pressure loss or make the tyre come off.
DANG ER!
Brake heat can loosen the gluing. Therefore, always brake with both brakes
G
simultaneously and give the rims a chance to cool down between the brak­ing processes.
Tyre removal
Deflate the tyre completely (d). To remove the tubular push it a little to the side of the rim at a place opposite the valve until a gap appears and the tyre starts to come off (e). If the tyre remains tight, stick a tyre lever into the gap and lift the tyre off the rim (f).
Replacing an individual tube is impossible. Instead you have to mount a com­plete tubular tyre. En route the tyre cannot be glued and is consequently not tight on the rim even when inflated.
The gluing is best done by a skilled technician of your SCOTT dealer. If you want to try it on your own, read the description and observe the instructions, in par­ticular those with regard to the waiting period and the repeated applying of the glue to build up a sufficiently thick adhesive bed.
Also observe the instructions of the tyre and rim manufacturers with regard to the proper glue and to possibly required special measures. Some tyre manu­facturers have posted videos on the internet describing the mounting of their products, e.g. www.conti-online.com
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Therefore, be sure to ride back very slowly and carefully by taking the shortest way possible. Back home, you have to glue the tubular tyre, as described in the following.
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Tyre mounting
To mount a tubular tyre properly so that it durably stays in place you should take your time and proceed stepwise. Some practice and experience with the tyre adhesive used and the relevant model of tubular tyre can speed up the work.
In general, mounting tubular tyres is a job for your SCOTT dealer. Read the mounting instructions of the tyre manufacturer before you start mounting.
Tubular tyres can be glued either with liquid tyre glue or with adhesive tapes (a). One advantage of using tape is that it can be done fairly quickly. However, this may not always give a sufficiently firm bond of the tyre on the rim. If you have a puncture while out riding, the tape often remains on the tyre that has been removed and the reserve tyre no longer seats properly on the rim.
For that reason we recommend a solid bed made up of several layers of liquid rim cement (tyre adhesive). Glue not only gives a firmer bond, it usually also remains on the rim when dismounting the tyre.
However, back home again you should remove the spare tyre nevertheless. The existing bed and the tyre (b) are then treated with rim cement once again and the tyre is mounted again to ensure that it seats properly.
Inflate the tyre to a point where it starts to become round and then stick the valve through the hole in the rim. Starting from the valve and working in both di­rections press the tyre into the rim all the way round. If you are unable to mount it completely on the rim or if this would require excessive force, leave off trying, since it might not work with force alone.
After mounting the tubular tyre, spin the wheel and see whether the tyre runs true. The area where the valve comes out of the tyre is often thickened which leads to a vertical runout of the rim and makes the wheel jolt during the ride. Remove the burrs from the valve hole of an aluminium rim or countersink it with a big drill (d), a triangular scraper or a round file.
If you have carbon rims, be careful when removing the burrs from the hole edge with a round file. Insert the file only from the outside to the inside and not vice versa, otherwise the fibres of the synthetic matrix might fray out. Seal the area with instant glue subsequently. This pretreatment will lead to an improved valve fitting to the rim.
If time permits, you can leave the unglued tyre inflated on the rim for a few days to make the final mounting easier.
Subsequently, clean the base of the rim from grease or oil by using a rag soaked with acetone, spirit or benzine (e).
If you have wheels with very high rims, undo the valve insert with the special mounting tool before the first mounting and take it out of the valve, and install a valve extension in its place (c). Screw the valve insert back into the lengthened valve. Now you can inflate and deflate the mounted tyre via the extended valve in the usual way.
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Wait for the solvent to evaporate completely before you start to glue the tyre onto the rim. Gluing the tyre (f) is easiest with the wheel clamped in a truing stand or mounted on an old fork clamped in a vice.
With liquid tyre glue you will need several layers to create a good adhesive bed. Spread the tyre glue evenly and as thinly as possible around almost the entire circumference of the rim.
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With a little practice you will be able to apply the glue straight from the tube (a). If this does not work at first you might find it easier to use a stiff brush. If you are using tyre glue from a can you will need a brush in any case. Let the tyre glue dry until it loses its sticky liquid touch. This can take up to a few hours. In the same way add another two thin films of glue and let them dry. Also apply a film of glue to the base tape. Leave the rim and the wheel as they are at least until the next day.
Before mounting the tyre also apply a film of glue to the base tape (b). To com­plete the adhesive bed add one last film of glue. If necessary, you can leave a section of five to ten centimetres without glue at a place just opposite the valve to make it easier to remove the tyre again at a later date.
Let the topmost layer dry for a short time and, while it still feels syrupy, place the rim on the ground with the valve hole facing upward. Inflate the tyre until it starts to round and then stick the valve through the valve hole and press it firmly against the rim (c).
Make sure the sides of the tyre do not touch the adhesive bed, since your tyre will otherwise look smudgy right away.
Keeping the tyre tight by holding your fingers against the rim and your thumbs on the tyre, brace the wheel against your hips. Heave the tyre with both thumbs into the base of the rim (e).
When the tyre is seated in the base, it has to be cantered, as it will rarely run true right away. Clamp the wheel in the mounting stand again and spin it. If the tread does not run exactly in the centre or if it swerves to the side at any place, lift it up at that place, twist it a little into true and let it go again.
When the tyre runs smoothly in the centre, take the wheel off the mounting stand and inflate the tyre to approximately half its nominal pressure. Lean your hands on the ends of the axle and quick-release skewers and roll the wheel a few metres on the ground (f). As you roll the wheel, vary between pressing it vertically downward and at a slant to either side.
If the tyre still runs true during the final check, inflate it to its maximum pressure, deflate until you have reached two thirds of the pressure and wait 8 hours at least or even better a whole day, before setting off for the first time. Beforehand adjust the pressure of the newly mounted tyre according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and to your own needs.
If you have left the section opposite the valve hole free of glue, you need not be concerned about glue smearing on the ground or dirt getting into the glue when you place the rim on the ground.
Take hold of the tyre right and left of the valve with both hands, pull it vigor­ously downward and work it bit by bit into the base of the rim (d) until you have about 20 centimetres left to go.
Starting from the top again on either side of the valve pull the tyre down with your hands, letting them gradually slip down to the not yet mounted section.
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DANG ER!
A poorly glued tubular tyre can come off the rim. Risk of accident!
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DANG ER!
Benzine and tyre glue should only be used in a well aired place, since both
G
materials are highly flammable. Keep them in a safe place out of children’s reach.
CAUTION!
Tyre glues do not only stick on rims and tyres, they also cling quite stub-
A
bornly to fingers and clothes. This makes it advisable to wear old clothes when mounting tubulars.
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NOTE!
When mounting a tyre on a rim that has already been used, it may be
i
necessary to carefully remove glue residues and dirt with emery cloth. Be careful not to damage the carbon material. When you are done, wipe the rim with a soft cloth and acetone.
NOTE!
Before removing a wheel, read the chapters “Wheels and tyres” and “Using
I
quick-releases and thru axles”.
NOTE!
If your bike has carbon rims, you have to use special tubular tyre glue (e.g.
I
from Continental). Be sure to read the manual of the manufacturer of tubu-
lar tyre glue for carbon rims on this SCOTT info CD before applying it.
NOTE!
See the video on how to properly glue Continental tubular tyres at
I
www.conti-online.com
REMOUNTING THE WHEEL
Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse order of dismounting. If necessary, insert the brake discs between the brake pads. Make sure the wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs and accurately centred between the fork legs or the seat and chainstays. Make sure the quick-release and the drop-out safety tabs are correctly seated. For more information see the chapter “Using quick-releas­es and thru axles”.
If you have disc brakes, check before mounting the wheel whether the brake pads rest snugly in their seats in the brake calliper body. The gaps between the brake pads and the wheel should be parallel and the wear indicators in their cor­rect position. Make sure you guide the rotor carefully between the brake pads. After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-release pull the brake lever (several times, if you have disc brakes).
All brakes:
After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-release pull the brake lever (e) (several times, if you have disc brakes). Lift your SCOTT bike off the ground and spin the wheel with your hand. With the wheel spinning the rotor should not drag along the brake calliper or the brake pads and the rim should keep off the (rim) brake pads.
DANG ER!
If you have rim brakes, make sure you hook up the brake cable immediately
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after the wheel mounting!
DANG ER!
Before setting off again check that the brake surfaces and/or rotors are still
G
free of grease or other lubricants after the wheel mounting (f).
DANG ER!
Check whether the brake pads hit the rotors or brake surfaces of the rims.
G
Make sure the wheel is properly seated and firmly fixed in the drop-outs. Al­ways do a brake test as described in the chapter “Tests before every ride“.
Close the quick-release lever at the brake (Shimano, SRAM) (a) or shift the pin in the brake lever/shifter unit on the handlebars (Campagnolo) (b).
If you have cantilever (c) and V-brakes (d) hook up the brake cable at the brake arm. To do this, grip the rim with one hand and press the brake pads and/or the brake arms together. In this position the usually barrel shaped nipple or the outer cable can easily be engaged.
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TESTS AFTER AN ACCIDENT
1. Check whether the wheels are still firmly fixed in the drop-outs (a) and
whether the rims are still centred with respect to the frame or fork. Spin the wheels and observe the gap either between brake pads and rim sides (b) or between frame and tyre. If you have rim brakes and the width of the gap changes markedly and you have no way to true the rim where you are, you need to open the brakes a little with the special device so that the rim can run between the brake pads without touching them. Please note that in this case the brakes may not act as powerfully as you are used to.
No matter whether you have rim or disc brakes, have the wheels trued by
your SCOTT dealer immediately after you are back home.
For more information see the chapters “Brakes”, “Using quick-releases and
thru axles” and “Wheels and tyres” and the manuals of the component manu­facturers on this SCOTT info CD.
2. Check that handlebars and stem are neither twisted nor bent or broken and
that they are level and aligned. Make sure the stem is firmly fixed on the fork by trying to turn the handlebars relative to the front wheel (c). Briefly lean on the brake levers to make sure the handlebars are firmly fixed in the stem.
Realign the components, if necessary, and gently tighten the bolts to ensure
a reliable clamping of the components (d). The maximum torque values are printed directly on the components or specified in the manuals of the com­ponent manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
For more information see the chapters “Adjusting the SCOTT bike to the rid-
er” and “The headset on the SCOTT bike” and the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
3. Check whether the chain still runs on the chainrings and the sprockets. If your
SCOTT bike fell over to the chain side, verify the proper functioning of the gears. Ask somebody to lift your SCOTT bike by the saddle and carefully shift through all the gears.
Pay particular attention when switching to the small gears, making sure the
rear derailleur does not get too close to the spokes as the chain climbs onto the larger sprockets (e).
If the rear derailleur or the drop-outs/derailleur hanger is bent, the rear derail-
leur may collide with the spokes. This in turn can destroy the rear derailleur, the rear wheel or the frame. Check the function of the front derailleur, as a displaced front derailleur can throw off the chain, thus interrupting the drive of your SCOTT bike. Risk of falling!
For more information see the chapter “Gears” and the manuals of the com-
ponent manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
4. Make sure the saddle is not out of alignment (f) using the top tube or the bottom bracket shell as a reference. If necessary, open the clamping, realign the saddle and retighten the clamping.
For more information see the chapters “Adjusting the SCOTT bike to the rid-
er” and “Using quick-releases and thru axles” and the manuals of the compo­nent manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
5. Let your SCOTT bike bounce on the ground from a small height. If there is any rattling, check where it comes from. Check the bearings and bolted connec­tions, if necessary. Tighten them slightly, if necessary.
6. Finally, take a good look at the whole SCOTT bike to detect any deformations, colour changes or cracks.
DANG ER!
Ride back very carefully by taking the shortest route possible, even if your
g
SCOTT bike went through this check without any problems. Do not acceler­ate or brake hard and do not ride your bike out of the saddle. If you are in doubt about the performance of your SCOTT bike, have yourself picked up by car instead of taking any risk.
DANG ER!
Back home you need to check your SCOTT bike thoroughly. Damaged
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parts must be repaired or replaced. Ask your SCOTT dealer for advice. For more information on carbon components see the chapter “Carbon – a particular material” and the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
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DANG ER!
Deformed components, especially components made of aluminium, can
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break without previous warning. They must not be repaired, i.e. straight­ened, as this will not reduce the imminent risk of breakage. This applies in particular to the fork, the handlebars, the stem, the cranks, the seat post and the pedals. When in doubt, it is always the better choice for your safety to have these parts replaced. Ask your SCOTT dealer for advice.
For this reason we recommend that you have the component, or to be certain, the entire SCOTT bike (c) checked by your SCOTT dealer after every incident, such as e.g. a fall.
Damaged components must be replaced at once! Prevent further use by taking appropriate measures, i.e. saw the component into pieces. Damaged carbon frames can possibly be repaired. Contact your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
If your SCOTT bike is assembled with carbon components, it is imperative
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that you have it checked by your SCOTT dealer after an accident or similar incident. Carbon is extremely strong and durable with very low weight, making it perfect for the production of high-performance parts. However, one of the inherent properties of carbon is that possible overstress may compromise the inner carbon fibre structure without showing any visible deformation, as is the case with steel or aluminium. A damaged component can fail without previous warning. Risk of falling!
CAUTION!
Make it a rule to check the functioning and in particular the limit stop of the
A
rear derailleur after a fall or if your SCOTT bike has toppled over.
CARBON – A PARTICULAR MATERIAL
Special characteristics of components made of carbon-fibre reinforced plastics, also referred to as carbon or CRP, need to be taken into account. Carbon (a) is an extremely strong material which combines high resistance with low weight.
After overstress, however, carbon components (b), unlike metal parts, do not necessarily show durable or visible deformation even though some of the fibres may be damaged. It is very dangerous to continue using the carbon component after an impact or undue stress, as it may fail without previous warning thereby causing an accident with unforeseeable consequences.
Carbon components must not be exposed to excessive heat. Therefore, never have a carbon component enamelled or powder-coated. The temperatures re­quired for enamelling or powder-coating could destroy the component. Do not leave carbon fibre components near a source of heat or in your car during hot or sunny weather.
In addition, carbon is sensitive to pressure. Therefore, do not mount your SCOTT frame on a mounting carrier with inappropriate clamps (d).
Carbon components have, like all lightweight bike components, a limited service life. For this reason, have the stem and the handlebars checked at regular inter­vals (e.g. every three years), even if they have not experienced any undue stress, such as an accident.
When you intend to transport your SCOTT bike in the boot of your car, be sure to protect the bike or the carbon frame and components. Blankets (e), foam tubes or the like are a suitable padding to protect the sensitive material from damage. Do not place any bags on your SCOTT bike lying in your car.
Always park your SCOTT bike carefully (f) and make sure it does not topple over. Carbon frames and components may already sustain damage by simply toppling over and thereby hitting e.g. a sharp edge.
DANG ER!
If carbon components on your SCOTT bike produce any creaking or crack-
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ing noises or show any external sign of damage, such as gouges, cracks, dents, discolorations etc., do not use the SCOTT bike any longer. Contact your SCOTT dealer immediately; he will check the component thoroughly.
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DANG ER!
Do not combine carbon handlebars with bar ends, unless they have been
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specifically approved. Do not shorten carbon handlebars or clamp the brake levers and shifters more in the middle than indicated or needed. Risk of breakage!
DANG ER!
Make sure all carbon clamping areas are absolutely free of grease and other
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lubricants! Grease will penetrate the surface of the carbon material, thereby reducing the coefficient of friction. This will no longer provide reliable clamping within the prescribed torque values. Once greased, carbon components may never again ensure reliable clamping! Use a special carbon assembly paste (a) instead as offered by various manufacturers.
CAUTION!
Most clamps of bike carrier systems are potential sources of damage to
A
large-diameter frame tubes! As a result thereof carbon frames can fail dur­ing use without previous warning. However, there are special-purpose models which are suitable, available in the car accessory trade. Inform yourself there or ask your SCOTT dealer for advice.
CAUTION!
Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat post in the holding jaws of a work-
A
stand (b)! The components may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy (alumini­um) seat post instead and use it to clamp the frame, or choose a work stand that holds the frame at three points inside the frame triangle or which clamps the fork and bottom bracket shell.
NOTE!
Protect the exposed areas of your carbon frame (e.g. the head tube and
I
the underside of the down tube) against rubbing cables or stone chips with
special pads (c+d) your SCOTT dealer keeps for sale.
NOTE!
Carbon fibre components are particularly vulnerable to damage caused
I
by excessive clamping force. Carbon assembly paste creates extra friction between two surfaces, allowing the necessary torque value to be reduced by up to 30 % (a). This is especially useful in the clamping areas of handlebars and stem, steerer tube and stem as well as seat post, i.e. three areas where too much clamping force can damage either component, causing component failure or voiding the warranty. By reducing the clamping force, carbon assembly paste relieves stress on sensitive carbon surfaces, preventing damage to fibres or the cracking of the carbon substructure.
THE HEADSET ON THE SCOTT BIKE
The headset (e) connects the fork to the frame, but allows it to move freely. It must turn with virtually no resistance, if the SCOTT bike is to run straight, stabilising itself as it travels. Shocks caused by uneven road surfaces expose the headset to considerable levels of stress. In this way it can become loose and go out of correct adjustment.
DANG ER!
Riding the bicycle with a loose headset increases the stress on fork and
G
bearings. This can lead to damage to the fork. Risk of falling!
Checking and readjusting
Check the headset for play by placing your fingers around the upper head tube race. Bring your weight to bear on the saddle, pull the front brakes with your other hand and push the SCOTT bike firmly back and forth with the wheel remaining on the ground (f). If the bearing has play, you will feel the upper head tube race moving in jerks relative to the lower head tube race - visible as a small gap in between the head tube races.
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To check whether the headset runs smoothly, lift the frame up until the front wheel no longer touches the ground. The handlebars should turn from far left to far right without feeling roughness or tightness at any point. With a gentle tap on the handlebars the fork should turn easily from the middle position (a).
If you face any problems during the test, contact your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
Bear in mind that by overtightening the bolts the stem can crush the steer-
G
er tube. In particular forks with carbon steerer tubes are highly sensitive to overtightening the steerer tube clamping at the stem. Risk of breakage! Make sure the clamping area is absolutely free of grease when any of the clamping faces is made of carbon. If necessary, use carbon assembly paste in the clamp­ing areas to ensure maximum clamping.
DANG ER!
Adjusting the headset requires a certain amount of experience and should
G
therefore be left to your SCOTT dealer.
THREADLESS HEADSET – AHEADSET®
The distinct feature of this system is that the stem does not sit within the fork steerer tube, but rather slips over the fork steerer tube, which in this case is threadless. The stem is thus an important part of the headset, as the stem clamping fixes the adjustment. You generally only need one or two Allen keys and a torque wrench to adjust an Aheadset®.
Release the clamping bolt(s) located on the side of the stem by one to two turns (b). Gently tighten the countersunk adjusting bolt on top a little, e.g. by a quar­ter turn (c), using an Allen key.
Realign the stem to ensure that the handlebars are at right angle to the wheel. Make sure the front wheel is in line with the top tube and the stem. Tighten the clamping bolts of the stem. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maxi­mum torque values! You will find the prescribed values in the chapter “Recom­mended torque settings for your SCOTT bike”, directly on the components and/ or in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
Check the headset for play as described above (d). Do not overtighten the headset. Risk of headset failure!
DANG ER!
Check the secure seat of the stem by taking the front wheel between your
G
legs and trying to turn the handlebars and stem relative to the wheel (e). A
loose stem can cause an accident.
DANG ER!
Never change the preloading mechanism in the inside of the fork steerer
G
tube. Never install a star nut in carbon fork steerer tubes.
CAUTION!
Do not overtighten the upper bolt, it only serves to adjust the headset play.
A
NOTE!
If you do not succeed in adjusting the headset, this can have several rea-
I
sons. If you are not absolutely sure, ask your SCOTT dealer for help.
LIGHTING OF YOUR SCOTT BIKE
For riding on public roads a functioning lighting set (f) is obligatory (see the chapter “Legal requirements for riding on public roads”).
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BATTERY-OPERATED LIGHTING
The regulations on the use of battery or rechargeable battery-operated front lamps (a) and rear lights are different in each country. Familiarize yourself with the relevant country-specific regulations and comply with the road traffic regu­lations in your country.
Ask your SCOTT dealer for suitable battery-operated or rechargeable bat­tery-operated lightings.
For more information see the chapter “Legal requirements for riding on public roads“.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT THE SCOTT BIKE
Good cycling glasses should fit tight on your face not allowing any wind to affect your eyes (d). Cycling glasses come in a wide range of models, such as glasses with clear lenses and without UV protection for cycling in the dawn and at night or glasses with maximum UV protection for cycling under extreme sunlight.
Your SCOTT dealer has a wide range of cycling glasses available and will be pleased to advise you.
CLOTHING
Cycling trousers (e) are essential if you want to sit comfortably. These close-fit­ting trousers, at least at the inside, have special padding in the seat. They have no seams that can press into you and they do not form folds. Cycling trousers are therefore designed to be worn next to the skin.
HELMETS AND GLASSES
Cycling helmets are a must when riding a bicycle. Your SCOTT dealer has a variety of styles and sizes.
Make sure the helmet complies with the test standard EN 1078 or the like (de­pending on the country where you use it). Cycling helmets are only approved for use during cycling. Observe the manufacturer’s instructions.
DANG ER!
Never ride without a helmet and glasses (b+c)! But remember that even the
G
safest helmet is useless unless it fits properly and is correctly adjusted and fastened.
In addition to a cycling helmet and suitable clothing, cycling glasses are abso­lutely essential when you are riding your SCOTT road bike. They do not only protect your eyes from the sun and the wind, but also keep out flies and other impurities that may impede your vision when they fly into your eyes. Being tem­porarily without sight may result in an accident or fall!
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Since sporty cycling will soon bring you out in a sweat, a jersey (f) made of synthetic materials is ideal. The fibres themselves do not take up any moisture but instead wick the sweat away from the skin up to the surface of the materials and thus prevent you getting cold from the cool wind produced by your speed. On longer tours you should in addition have suitable protection against the rain. Your SCOTT dealer will be glad to help you choose the right equipment.
DANG ER!
Never ride with wide-cut trousers or skirts that might get caught in the
G
spokes, chain or chainrings. To avoid any such mishap, use suitable clips or straps, if necessary.
DANG ER!
For increased visibility to other road users be sure to wear striking and
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bright-coloured clothing!
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PEDALS AND SHOES
Cycling shoes should be made of solid material to provide firm support for your feet. In addition, they should have a stiff sole so that the pedal cannot press through (a). The sole should not be too wide in the area of the heels, as the rear stays or the crank will otherwise get in the way of your pedalling. This will pre­vent your feet from assuming a natural position when pedalling and may cause knee pain in the long run. Your SCOTT dealer has a wide range of shoes availa­ble and will be pleased to advise you.
Special cycling shoes are obligatory, if your SCOTT road bike is equipped with clipless pedals (b+c). With these shoes cleats are fixed to the sole. They give you a firm connection between shoe and pedal and allow depending on the model an at least acceptable walking position.
DANG ER!
Taking up the pedals, engaging and disengaging the shoes should first be
G
practised when stationary. Later on you can refine your technique in a place clear of traffic.
DANG ER!
Only use clipless pedals allowing you to engage and disengage smoothly.
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A defective pedal or a badly worn cleat can make the shoe disengage from the pedal (e). Or unclipping the shoe from the pedal is sometimes very difficult or even impossible. In both cases there is the danger of a fall!
DANG ER!
Make sure pedals and shoe soles are always clear of mud and other impuri-
G
ties (f) and grease the lock-in mechanism with lubricant at regular intervals.
The main advantage is that these step-in pedals prevent your feet from slipping off when pedalling fast. They enable you not only to push but also to pull the pedals. This makes your pedalling more smooth and increases the power trans­mission compared to normal pedals.
The usual way to engage with the pedal is to turn it from the lowest position of the crank to the horizontal using the tip of the cleat and push down on the back of it. Normally, the shoe engages with the pedal with a click which you will hear and feel clearly.
The release force of clipless pedals is adjusted by means of an Allen key (d). At the beginning the setting should allow an easy release. Once you have more practice, you can tighten the setting.
If there are any creaking or squeaking noises, some grease will solve the prob­lem in most cases. These noises as well as lateral play of the shoe on the pedal can, however, also be signs of wear. Check the cleats at regular intervals.
DANG ER!
Make sure the fastening bolts of the cleats are properly tightened, as you
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will find it almost impossible to disengage your shoe from the pedal if the cleat is loose. Risk of falling!
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DANG ER!
Most cycling shoes with cleats are only suitable for walking to a limited
G
extent. As the cleats, in particular when mounted to road bike shoes, are thicker than the sole, they provide less grip even on a non-slip ground. Be par­ticularly careful.
NOTE!
Ask your SCOTT dealer for advice about the different shoe and pedal mod-
I
els. Cycling shoes come in various styles for specific uses.
NOTE!
Read the manual of the pedal manufacturer on this SCOTT info CD.
I
ACCESSORIES
In purchasing this SCOTT bike you laid the foundation for many years and miles of enjoyable cycling. Whatever you are planning to do with your SCOTT bike, be sure to have proper equipment and to keep a few tips in mind. Your SCOTT dealer has a variety of useful accessories on offer enhancing both your safety and convenience.
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Your SCOTT bike can be fitted with various kinds of accessories. Make sure to observe the requirements according to the traffic regulations in your country and of the EN standards. Any retrofitted part must be compatible with your SCOTT bike. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
Cycle computers
There are electronic computers that show your current and average speed, your daily and annual mileage as well as the duration of the present ride (d). Top-end models show the highest speed that was reached, the difference in height, the cadence or (with a special chest strap) your pulse rate as well.
DANG ER!
Unsuitable accessories may change the qualities of your SCOTT bike and
G
even cause an accident. Therefore, before fitting any accessories contact your SCOTT dealer and observe the instructions regarding the intended use of your SCOTT bike.
DANG ER!
Retrofitted accessories, such as mudguards, pannier racks etc. can impair
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the functioning of your SCOTT bike. Ask your SCOTT dealer for advice be-
fore mounting any kind of accessories to your bike.
CAUTION!
Before buying any additional bells or lighting accessories, inform your-
A
self thoroughly whether they are permitted and tested and accordingly approved for use on public roads (a). Make sure additional battery/accumula­tor-powered lamps are marked with the wavy line and the letter “K”.
Bicycle locks
Do not forget to take a high quality D- (b) or chain lock with you on your ride. The only way to effectively protect your SCOTT bike against theft is to lock it to an immovable object.
Puncture kit
The most important accessories for a successful cycle tour are a tyre pump and a small tool kit. The tool kit should include two plastic tyre levers, the most com­monly used Allen keys, a spare tube, a tyre repair kit and a little cash (c). In this way you will be well prepared in the event of a puncture or some other mishap. Take your mobile phone with you, as well.
Today, there are global positioning systems (GPS) and specific power meters for optimal training on the market which are compatible with your SCOTT bike.
Aero or triathlon/time trial bars
Before you mount aero or triathlon/time trial bars (e) on your SCOTT road bike, it is essential to find out first whether the handlebars or a corresponding attach­ment for use with your handlebars and stem are approved.
NOTE!
Read the manuals of the handlebar and stem manufacturers on this SCOTT
I
info CD. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer!
Mudguards (wheel protections)
If you want to mount mudguards on your SCOTT bike, ask your SCOTT dealer for advice. There are removable mudguards (f), also referred to as clip-on mud­guards, as well as firmly attached models that provide more protection against moisture and dirt.
Retrofittable mudguards for fix fastening are usually made of plastics and are secured in the correct position by means of additional stays. The length of the stay is perfect when the bottom edge of the mudguard runs at an approx. distance of 15 mm parallel to the tyre. Also make sure neither the brakes nor the steering are affected.
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For safety reasons the front wheel stays must have security fastenings. They prevent the tyre from being blocked by impurities taken up by the front wheel from the ground. In this case the security fastening frees the stay and hereby prevents a possible accident. The plug connection can easily be refastened.
DANG ER!
Damaged mudguards should be replaced in any case. Risk of accident!
G
TRANSPORTING LUGGAGE
There are only theoretically various ways of carrying luggage on your SCOTT road bike. Using a bicycle rucksack (a) is a convenient way of transporting lug­gage on a bike and therefore recommendable.
Your choice will primarily depend on the weight and volume of the luggage and on the bicycle you want to use. Contact your SCOTT dealer.
DANG ER!
For SCOTT road and triathlon bikes as well as time trial machines and
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cyclo-cross bikes pannier racks (b) are not permitted. Note that SCOTT will not assume liability for the use of pannier racks. Such a use would render the warranty null and void.
TAKING CHILDREN WITH YOU
For SCOTT road and triathlon bikes as well as time trial machines and cyc­lo-cross bikes (kids) trailers (c), child carriers (d) and kids’ tandem bike systems are not permitted. Note that SCOTT will not assume liability for the use of trail­ers, child carriers and kids’ tandem bike systems. Such a use would render the warranty null and void.
TRANSPORT OF THE SCOTT BIKE
BY CAR
Nearly every car accessory dealer and car company offers carrier systems (e) that allow the transport of a bike without disassembly.
The usual design involves rails fixed to the roof of the car onto which the bicy­cles are fixed with clamps gripping the down or the top tubes. This can, howev­er, result in irreparable damage to the frame. High-end, very thin-walled alumin­ium or carbon frames are particularly susceptible to such kind of damage. Due to the material properties of carbon, you may not see a severe damage at first sight. This can result in an unforeseeable severe accident at a later date. There are, however, special suitable models available in the car accessory trade.
Rear carriers are becoming more and more popular. Their big advantage over roof carriers is that you do not have to lift up the bicycle so high to attach it. Make sure the clamps do not cause any damage to the fork or frame. Risk of breakage!
Whatever system you opt for, make sure it complies with the relevant safety standards, e.g. DIN/EN standards of your country (GS symbol).
Read the manual of your bicycle carrier and comply with the maximum load capacity and recommended or prescribed driving speed. If applicable, comply with the required supporting load on the trailer hitch.
DANG ER!
Make sure to remove all parts of your SCOTT bike (tools, saddle bags (f),
G
tachometers etc.) which may come loose during transport. Risk of accident!
Contact your SCOTT dealer.
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DANG ER!
Do not buy a carrier on which the SCOTT road bike has to be mounted
G
upside down, i.e. with the handlebars and saddle fixed face down to the carrier. This way of fastening the bicycle exposes handlebars, stem, saddle and seat post to extreme stress during transport. Do not opt for a carrier system with crank arm fit. Risk of breakage!
DANG ER!
Check whether your SCOTT bike is properly fastened before and at regular
G
intervals during the journey, e.g. during a stop. A SCOTT bike that detaches
from the roof carrier may endanger other road users.
DANG ER!
Always secure your SCOTT bike or its components when putting it/them
G
into the interior of your car (a). Parts shifting around can impair your safety.
CAUTION!
Most clamps are a potential source of damage to large-diameter frame
A
tubes (b) that are not designed to be fixed in such clamps! Do not use such
systems with carbon frames.
CAUTION!
Please make sure the lights and the number plate of your car are not hidden
A
from view. For some carriers, a second exterior rear view mirror is required
by the road traffic regulations.
CAUTION!
Bear in mind that your car has a greater overall height with the bicycle on it.
A
Measure the overall height and place a sign stating the height somewhere in
the cockpit or on the steering wheel so that it can be easily seen.
CAUTION!
If your SCOTT bike has disc brakes, be sure to mount the safety locks (c) be-
A
fore transporting your SCOTT cyclo-cross bike with the wheels dismounted.
BY TRAIN / BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT
In the cities the regulations for taking SCOTT bikes by public transport differ (e). In some places there are for example off-times when you are not allowed to take your SCOTT bike with you or only with an additional bicycle ticket. Inform yourself in time about the regulations of carrying the bicycle before you start the trip!
The regulations for taking bicycles with you by train differ in each country. In­form yourself in time about the respective transport regulations.
NOTE!
Observe that every train traveller is normally allowed to take only one bicy-
I
cle with him.
NOTE!
Before you start your trip inform yourself in time about the conditions of
I
carriage and also observe the regulations and rules about bicycle transport in the countries through which you intend to travel.
BY PLANE
If you want to take your SCOTT bike with you when you go on a trip by plane, pack it in an appropriate bicycle suitcase (f) or in a bicycle cardboard box that you can obtain from your SCOTT dealer. Special bicycle bags often do not pro­vide sufficient protection for your SCOTT bike.
Pack the wheels (in particular carbon wheels) in special wheel bags to protect them inside the suitcase or cardboard box. Do not forget to take the necessary tools, a torque wrench and bits, carbon assembly paste and this owner’s manual with you to be able to assemble your SCOTT bike and to get it ready for use at your destination.
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CAUTION!
Pull the brake levers and secure them with a strong elastic strap (d) when
A
transporting a SCOTT bike with hydraulic disc brakes.
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CAUTION!
If your SCOTT cyclo-cross bike has disc brakes, be sure to mount the safety
A
locks before transporting your SCOTT cyclo-cross bike with the wheels dismounted.
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CAUTION!
Pull the brake levers and secure them with a strong rubber band.
A
GENERAL NOTES ON CARE AND SERVICING
MAINTENANCE AND SERVICING YOUR SCOTT BIKE
Your SCOTT dealer will have assembled and adjusted your SCOTT bike ready for use when you come to collect it. Nevertheless, your SCOTT bike needs reg­ular servicing (a). Have your local SCOTT dealer do the scheduled maintenance work. This is the only way to ensure that all components function safely and reliably for many kilometres.
The bike will be due for its first service after 100 to 300 kilometres, 5 to 15 hours of initial use or four to six weeks, at the latest however after three months. The bedding-in phase typically involves spokes slightly losing tension or gears com­ing out of adjustment (b), so there is every reason to have your SCOTT dealer service the SCOTT bike at this stage. This bedding-in process is unavoidable. Therefore, remember to make an appointment with your SCOTT dealer to have your new SCOTT bike inspected. This first service is very important for both functioning and durability of your SCOTT bike.
It is advisable to have your SCOTT bike serviced regularly by your SCOTT dealer after the bedding-in phase, i.e. according to the SCOTT service and mainte­nance schedule. If you ride a great deal on poor road surfaces or off-road, it will require correspondingly shorter service periods (see SCOTT service plan). The off-season during the winter months is a very good time to take your SCOTT bike to your SCOTT dealer for the annual inspection, as they will have plenty of time for you and for servicing your SCOTT bike.
The intended use of your SCOTT bike includes regular servicing and the re­placement of worn out parts in time, e.g. chains, brake pads (c) or bowden and brake cables (d).
This will ensure the safe functioning and therefore has an influence on the liabili­ty for material defects and the warranty.
For more information see the chapter “SCOTT service and maintenance sched­ule” and the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
DANG ER!
Servicing and repairs are jobs best left to your SCOTT dealer. If you have
G
your bike serviced by anyone else than an expert, you run the risk that parts of your SCOTT bike will fail. Risk of accident! When working on your SCOTT bike restrict yourself to jobs for which you have the suitable tools, e.g. a torque wrench, and the necessary knowledge.
DANG ER!
If a component needs to be replaced, make it a rule to only use original
G
spare parts (e). Wearing parts of other manufacturers, e.g. brake pads or tyres that are not of identical dimension, may render your SCOTT bike unsafe. Risk of accident!
CLEANING AND CARING FOR YOUR SCOTT BIKE
Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winter or in sea air can harm your SCOTT bike. You should therefore make it a habit of cleaning all compo­nents at regular intervals (f).
Avoid cleaning your bike with a high-pressure cleaner. The high-pressure jet is likely to enter bearings by passing through the seals and dilute the lubricants hereby increasing the friction. This destroys and impairs the functioning of the bearing races in the long term. High-pressure jets are also likely to remove frame and rim stickers.
A much more gentle way of cleaning your bike is with a low-pressure water jet or a bucket of water and a sponge or a large brush. Cleaning your bike by hand has another positive side-effect: You may discover defects in the paint as well as worn or defective components at an early stage.
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After cleaning and drying (a) check the chain for wear (b) and relubricate (c) (see the chapter “Bicycle chain” and the manuals of the component manufac­turers on this SCOTT info CD).
Apply a coat of standard hard wax (d) on painted, metal and carbon surfaces (except from brake surfaces and brake discs). Polish the waxed surfaces after drying to give them a nice shine.
DANG ER!
Keep cleaning agents and chain oil clear of the brake pads, brake discs and
G
rim sides (braking surfaces). Otherwise the brake could fail. Never grease or lubricate the clamping areas of a frame made of carbon, e.g. handlebars, stem, seat post and seat tube. Once greased, carbon components may never again ensure reliable clamping!
DANG ER!
While cleaning, watch out for cracks, scratches, dents as well as deformed
G
or discoloured material. Have defective components replaced immediate­ly and touch up paint defects. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
CAUTION!
Do not clean your SCOTT bike with a high-pressure cleaner or a water jet
A
and if you do, be sure to keep it at a distance. Do not aim at the bearings.
CAUTION!
Only use petroleum-based solvents for cleaning tough oil or grease stains
A
from paint and carbon surfaces. Never use degreasing agents containing acetone, methyl chloride or the like, or solvent-containing, non-neutral or chem­ical cleaning agents that could attack the surface!
SHELTERING AND STORING YOUR SCOTT BIKE
If you regularly look after your SCOTT bike during the season, you will not need to take any special measures when storing it for a short time, apart from secur­ing it against theft. Store your bike in a dry, well aerated place.
If you want to store your SCOTT bike for a longer period of time, e.g. over the winter months, please observe the following things: Inflated inner tubes tend to gradually lose air when the bike is not used for a long time. If your SCOTT bike is left standing on flat tyres for an extended period, this can cause damage to the structure of the tyres. It is therefore better to hang the wheels or the entire SCOTT bike (e) or to check the tyre pressure regularly (f). Clean your SCOT T bike and protect it against corrosion. Your SCOTT dealer offers a variety of care products, such as spray wax etc.
Dismount the seat post and let dry away possibly penetrated humidity. Spray a little finely atomized oil into the metal seat tube. However, do not apply oil in a carbon seat tube. Shift the gear to the smallest chainring and the smallest sprocket. This relaxes the cables and the springs.
CAUTION!
Do not hang your SCOTT bike on carbon rims. Mount instead at least one
a
aluminium wheel.
NOTE!
There are hardly any waiting times at your SCOTT dealer during the winter
I
months. In addition, many SCOTT dealers offer an annual check-up at a special price. Benefit from the idle time and ask your SCOTT dealer to do the scheduled maintenance work!
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SCOTT SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
It is advisable to have your SCOTT bike serviced regularly after the bedding-in phase. The schedule given in the table below is a rough guide for cyclists who ride their bike between 1,500 and 2,500 km or 60 to 100 hours of use a year.
If you consistently ride more or if you ride a great deal on poor road surfaces, the maintenance periods of the SCOTT service plan will shorten accordingly. This applies in particular to SCOTT cyclo-cross bicycles.
Component What to do Before every Monthly Annually Other ride
Lighting Check function, if necessary · Tyres Check pressure · Check tread and side walls · Brakes (rim brakes) Check lever travel, wear of brake · pads, position of pads relative to rim; test brakes in stationary Brakes (mechanical Lever travel, brake pads and test · disc brakes) brakes in stationary Brakes, brake pads Clean · (rim brakes) Brake cables/ Visual inspection · lines/pads Brakes (disc brakes) Lever travel, brake pads, · seals, test brakes in stationary Replace liquid (DOT-liquids) o Rims (of rim brakes) Check thickness, replace if necessary o after 2nd set of brake pads at the latest Fork Check and replace, if necessary o at least every two years Bottom bracket Check for bearing play · Dismount and regrease (cups) o Chain Check and grease, if necessary · Check wear, replace, if necessary, o after 1,000 derailleur gears km or 50 hours of use Crank Check and retighten, if necessary · Painted/anodized/ Polish · every 6 carbon surfaces months at least Wheels/spokes Check for trueness and tension · True or retighten o if necessary Handlebars and Check and replace, if necessary o every 2 stem (aluminium years at and carbon) the latest
Component What to do Before every Monthly Annually Other ride
Headset Check for bearing play · Regrease o Metal surfaces Polish (except: rim sides · every of rim brakes, rotors) 6 months at least Hubs Check for bearing play · Regrease o Pedals (all) Check for bearing play · Pedals (clipless) Clean and grease locking mechanism · Seat post/stem Check bolts · Disassemble and regrease o Carbon: new assembly paste (no grease!) Front/rear derailleur Clean and grease · Quick-releases Check seat · Nuts Check and retighten, if necessary · (mudguards etc.) Valves Check seat · Cables Disassemble and regrease o gears/brakes
If you have a certain degree of mechanical skills, experience and suitable tools, such as a torque wrench, you should be able to do the checks marked · by your­self. If you come across any defects, take appropriate measures without delay. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
Jobs marked o are best left to your SCOTT dealer.
NOTE!
For your own safety, bring your SCOTT bike to your SCOTT dealer for its
i
first inspection after 100 to 300 kilometres, 5 to 15 hours of initial use or
four to six weeks, and at the very latest after three months.
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RECOMMENDED TORQUE SETTINGS FOR YOUR SCOTT BIKE
All bolted connections of the bike components have to be tightened carefully and checked regularly to ensure the safe and reliable operation of the SCOTT bike. This is best done with a torque wrench that disengages as soon as the desired torque value has been reached or a click-type torque wrench. Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque value in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) and check in between the proper fit of the component. Never exceed the maximum torque value indicated by the manufacturer!
Where no maximum torque setting is given start with 2 Nm. Observe the indi­cated values and observe the values on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD.
Component Bolted connections Shimano1 SRAM/Avid2 Tek t ro3 TRP4 Campagnolo (Nm) (Nm) (Nm) (Nm) (Nm)
Rear Mount 8 - 10 8 - 10 15 derailleur (on frame/derailleur hanger) Cable clamp 5 - 7 4 - 5 6 Pulley wheels 3 - 4 2.7 Front Mount on frame 5 - 7 5 - 7 5 - 7 derailleur Cable clamp 5 - 7 5 5 Shifter Mount on handlebars 5 2.5 - 4 10 Hole covering 0.3 - 0.5 Flatbar 6 Brake Mount on handlebars 6 - 8 5 - 7 6 - 8 10 lever unit Time trial brake lever 5 - 7 Flatbar 6 Hub Quick-release lever 5 - 7.5 Lock nut for bearing adjustment of quick-release hubs 10 - 25 Sprocket cluster lock ring 29 - 49 40 40 (11-speed) 50 (10-speed) Internal Hub axle nut 30 - 45 gear hub Crank Crank mount 35 - 50 32 - 38 (grease-free square-head) Crank mount 35 - 50 (Shimano Octalink) Crank mount (Shimano Hollowtech II) 12 - 15 Crank mount (Isis) 31 - 34 Crank mount (Giga X Pipe) 48 - 54 Splined 42 Ultra Torque 42 - 60 Chainring mount 8 - 11 12 - 14 (steel) 8 8 - 9 (alu)
Component Bolted connections Shimano1 SRAM/Avid2 Tek t ro3 TRP4 Campagnolo (Nm) (Nm) (Nm) (Nm) (Nm)
Sealed Shell (square-head) 49 - 69 70 cartridge Shell (Shimano Hollowtech II, 35 - 50 bearing SRAM Giga X Pipe) 34 - 41 35 Shimano Octalink 50 - 70 (Ultra Torque) Pedal Pedal axle 35 40 Shoe Cleat 5 - 6 Spike 4 Brake Cable clamp 6 - 8 6 - 8 6 - 8 6 - 8 5 (V-brake) Brake shoe mount 6 - 8 6 - 8 6 - 8 6 - 8 8 Brake pad fixing 1 - 2 Brake boss frame/fork 8 - 10
1
www.shimano.com 2www.sram.com 3www.tektro.com 4www.trpbrakes.com 5www.campagnolo.com
5
5
These values are reference values of the above-mentioned component manu­facturers. Observe the values in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD. These values do not apply to the components of other manufacturers.
NOTE!
Due to the unmanageable number of components on the market, SCOTT
I
is not in a position to foresee every product that will be replaced or newly assembled by third parties. Therefore SCOTT denies any liability for such kind of additions or modifications with regard to compatibility, torque values etc. Who­ever assembles or modifies the SCOTT bike shall ensure that the SCOTT bike is assembled according to the state of the art in science and technology.
NOTE!
Some components have the maximum permissible torque values printed on
I
them. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum torque value! If
you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
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RECOMMENDED TORQUE SETTINGS FOR DISC BRAKES ON YOUR SCOT T BIKE
Component Shimano1 Avid2 Tek t ro3 TRP4 Magura HS (Nm) (Nm) (Nm) (Nm) (Nm)
Brake calliper mount 6 - 8 9 - 10 6 - 8 6 - 8 6 (IS adapter) on frame/fork 8 - 10 (brake calliper) Brake lever unit on handlebars
- Single-bolt clamp 6 - 8 Discrete 5 - 7 4 Clamp Bolt/ Hinge Clamp Bolt/ XLoc Hinge Clamp Bolt: 5 - 6 Pinch Clamp Bolt: 2.8 - 3.4 Split Clamp Bolts / Match Maker Bolts: 3 - 4
- Two-bolt clamp 4 - 5 Union screws of cable at grip 5 - 7 5 4 and normal cable at brake calliper Brake cable connector at brake calliper (disc tube cable) 5 - 7 Expansion tank cap 0.3 - 0.5 Bleeding device brake calliper 4 - 6 4 - 6 2 - 4 4 Bleeding device brake lever 2 - 4 4 Brake disc fixing (6-holes) 4 6.2 4 - 6 6 - 8 Brake disc fixing (Centerlock) 40 - 50 Hose (union nut) direct connection 5 - 7 4 Slave cylinder (bleeder screw) 4 Brake pad retainer at brake calliper 0.2 - 0.4 3 - 5 Cable clamp at brake calliper 4 - 6
1
www.shimano.com, 2 www.sram.com, 3 www.tektro.com, 4 www.trpbrakes.com, 5 www.magura.com
These values are reference values of the above-mentioned component manu­facturers. Observe the values in the manuals of the component manufacturers on this SCOTT info CD. These values do not apply to the components of other manufacturers.
NOTE!
5
Some components have the maximum permissible torque values printed on
I
them. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum torque value! If
you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your SCOTT dealer.
LEGAL REQUIREMENTS FOR RIDING ON PUBLIC ROADS
If you want to use your SCOTT bike for riding on public roads (d), it has to be equipped according to the regulations of the respective country.
Pay particular attention to your SCOTT bike being equipped with the prescribed lighting (e) and reflectors (f).
Ask your SCOTT dealer to inform you about the road traffic regulations in force in your country. Make yourself familiar with the road traffic regulations for riding on public roads and off-road.
DANG ER!
For your own safety, be sure to switch on the light as soon as dusk sets in.
g
DANG ER!
Keep the lighting set clean and check its functioning at regular intervals.
g
NOTE!
When riding on public roads cyclists must in general observe the same
i
regulations as car drivers. Make yourself familiar with the road traffic regu-
lations of your country.
NOTE!
Due to the unmanageable number of components on the market, SCOTT
I
is not in a position to foresee every product that will be replaced or newly assembled by third parties. Therefore SCOTT denies any liability for such kind of additions or modifications with regard to compatibility, torque values etc. Whoever assembles or modifies the SCOTT bike shall ensure that the bike was assembled according to the state of the art in science and technology.
| 112
e fd
ENGLISHENGLISH
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Page 58
WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE
Your SCOTT bike was manufactured with great care. Normally it is delivered to you by your SCOTT dealer fully assembled.
As direct purchaser you have full warranty rights within the first two years after purchase. Please contact your SCOTT dealer in the event of defects.
To ensure a smooth handling of your claim, it is necessary to present your re­ceipt, your SCOTT bike card, the SCOTT handover report and the proofs of the service plan. Therefore, be sure to keep these documents in a safe place.
To ensure a long service life and good durability of your SCOTT bike, use it only for its intended purpose (see the chapter “Intended use of your SCOTT bike“ and the SCOTT bike card). Please observe the permissible load specifications as specified on the SCOTT bike card. Be sure to follow the mounting instructions of the manufacturers (above all, the torque values of the bolts) as well as the prescribed maintenance schedule.
Observe the checks and routines listed in this owner’s manual or in any other manuals enclosed with this delivery (see the chapter “SCOTT service and main­tenance schedule”) as well as any instructions concerning the replacement of safety-relevant components such as handlebars or brakes etc.
DANG ER!
Keep in mind that retrofitted accessories can impair the functioning of your
G
SCOTT bike. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your
SCOTT dealer.
NOTE!
The law referring to full warranty rights is only valid in the countries where
I
the law has been ratified according to the renewed European regulations.
Please inform yourself about the situation in your country.
NOTES ON WEARING PARTS
Some components of your SCOTT bike are subject to wear due to their function (a+b). The rate of wear will depend on care and maintenance and the way you use your SCOTT bike (mileage, riding in the rain, dirt, salt etc.). SCOTT bikes that are often left standing in the open may also be subject to increased wear through weathering.
The components below require regular care (c+d) and maintenance. The fol­lowing parts which have reached their limit of wear must be replaced:
Drive chain Brake pads Brake fluid (DOT) Brake discs/rotors (e) Brake cables Brake cable housings Rim sides (of rim brakes) (f) Rubber grips Chainrings Chainstay protection Bearings in hubs, joints etc. Handlebar tape Tyre s Sprockets Saddle covering / saddle Pulleys Bowden cables Cable housings Inner tubes Lubricants
CAUTION!
Register your SCOTT bike on www.scott-sports.com. That’s the only way
A
for you to benefit from the extended warranty.
DANG ER!
Register your SCOTT bike on www.scott-sports.com within 10 days as of
g
the date of purchase. Your references may particularly help ensure your
safety, as we can inform you about possible measures to be taken, if necessary.
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ENGLISHENGLISH
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Page 59
GUARANTEE ON SCOTT BIKES
What is covered? This warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship
at the time of transfer of risks in frames, swingarms and forks (provided it is a SCOTT fork) on SCOTT branded bikes sold completely assembled by SCOTT or an authorized SCOTT dealer (“Product”).
How long does coverage last? This voluntary manufacturer’s warranty is limited to five years for frames and swingarms, respectively two years for forks, from the date of purchase of the Product and is limited to the first purchaser of the Product and subject to the prior registration of your SCOTT-bike on www.scott-sports.com within 10 days as of the date of purchase. Transfer of the Product from the first purchaser to another person terminates this limited warranty.
The limited warranty of five years for the frames and swingarms shall only be granted in a maintenance service has been effected case once a year according to maintenance requirements as set forth in the manual. The effected annual maintenance service shall be confirmed by stamp and signature. In case such an annual maintenance service has not been effected the warranty of five years for the frame shall be reduced to three years. Costs for maintenance and service have to be borne by the owner of the Product.
On Gambler, Voltage Fr and Volt-X the warranty period is limited to two years.
Repaired or replaced Products are covered for the remainder of the original warranty period and subject to the conditions outlined in the original warranty, to the extent permitted by law.
Hereby SCOTT grants a worldwide voluntarily manufacturer’s warranty. To the extent permitted by law and unless a shorter duration is stipulated by law, any warranties implied by law are limited in duration to maximum five, respectively two years, from the date of purchase of the Product and are limited to the first purchaser of the Product.
What will SCOTT do? SCOTT will replace or repair any defective Product, or will refund your purchase price (as evidenced by your tendered receipt of purchase of the Product), at SCOTT’s option. You must pay charges in connection with replacement of any non-defective parts. In such a case, you will be alerted to the advisability of replacing non-defective parts, so you can pre-authorize the costs.
What does this limited warranty not cover? This limited warranty does not cover defects which did not exist before the transfer of risks. This limited war­ranty does not cover Products used in rental operations. This limited warranty does not cover purchases of not completely assembled bikes.
This limited warranty does not cover any defect caused by “wear and tear” (a complete list of all parts of “wear and tear” can be found in the manual), accident, neglect, improper handling, colour fade due to exposure to sunlight, abuse, misuse, an act of God, improper assembly, non-compliance with recom­mended maintenance and care procedures, improper or incorrectly performed maintenance or repairs performed by someone other than an authorized SCOTT dealer, use of parts or devices not consistent with the Product, and alteration of the Product. All Products come with a manual; please carefully follow the instructions located there or affixed elsewhere to the Product. To the extent permitted by law, consequential and incidental damages are not recoverable under this limited warranty.
How do you make a claim under this limited warranty? To make a claim under this limited warranty, you must notify SCOTT of the claimed defect within the warranty period and timely return the Product to SCOTT at your expense for inspection. Please contact your authorized SCOTT dealer, call SCOT T’s customer service or the national SCOTT distributor (dealer locator: www.scott-sports.com). All returned Products must be accompanied by proof of purchase (receipt) from an authorized SCOTT dealer or this limited warranty will not apply. In case of replacement or refund, the returned Product becomes the property of S COT T.
A protocol for the handing over of the Product (which you will find at the end of the manual) will remain in copy at the SCOTT dealer after acceptance and signature of the consumer. It is obligatory to show this protocol of handing over together with the defective part in case of a warranty claim given that it pro­vides evidence of purchase or this limited warranty will not apply.
How do state laws affect your rights under this limited warranty? This limited warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state.
Recommendation
We strongly recommend that you use only authorized SCOTT dealers for yearly maintenance services and for repairs, as improper or incorrectly performed maintenance or repairs voids this limited warranty. Costs for maintenance ser­vice have to be borne by the consumer.
SCOTT Bikes
Gambler, Voltage FR, Volt-X
5
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ENGLISHENGLISH
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SERVICE PLAN
1st service – After 100 – 300 kilometres or
5 – 15 hours of use or after three months from date of purchase
Order no.: ....................................................................
Mileage: ....................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
2nd service – After 2,000 kilometres or 100 hours of use or after one year
Order no.: ....................................................................
3rd service – After 4,000 kilometres or 200 hours of use or after two years
Order no.: ....................................................................
Mileage: ....................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
4th service – After 6,000 kilometres or 300 hours of use or after three years
Order no.: ....................................................................
Mileage: ....................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
| 118
Mileage: ....................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
ENGLISHENGLISH
119 |
Page 61
5th service – After 8,000 kilometres or 400 hours of use or after four years
7th service – After 12,000 kilometres or 600 hours of use or after six years
Order no.: ....................................................................
Mileage: ....................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
6th service – After 10,000 kilometres or 500 hours of use or after five years
Order no.: ....................................................................
Order no.: ....................................................................
Mileage: ...................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
8th service – After 14,000 kilometres or 700 hours of use or after seven years
Order no.: ....................................................................
Mileage: ....................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
| 120
Mileage: ....................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
ENGLISHENGLISH
121 |
Page 62
9th service – After 16,000 kilometres or 800 hours of use or after eight years
11th service – After 20,000 kilometres or
1.000 hours of use or after ten years
Order no.: ....................................................................
Mileage: ....................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
10th service – After 18,000 kilometres or 900 hours of use or after nine years
Order no.: ....................................................................
Order no.: ....................................................................
Mileage: ....................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
12th service – After 22,000 kilometres or
1.200 hours of use or after eleven years
Order no.: ....................................................................
Mileage: ....................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
| 122
Mileage: ...................................................................
o All necessary maintenance work carried out (see service and maintenance
schedule); replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carried out on: Stamp and signature
of the SCOTT dealer:
ENGLISHENGLISH
123 |
Page 63
BIKE CARD
HANDOVER REPORT
Model
Frame no.
Colour
Frame type/size
Tyre s i ze
Special features/accessories
DANG ER!
Register your SCOTT bike on www.scott-sports.com within 10 days as of
g
the date of purchase. Your references may particularly help ensure your
safety, as we can inform you about possible measures to be taken, if necessary.
INTENDED USE
Use in accordance with Category 0 £ Category 3 £ Category 1 £ Category 4 £ Category 2 £ Category 5 £
Permissible overall load
SCOTT bike, rider and luggage Pannier rack/permissible load no Child seat permitted no Trailer permitted/permissible trailer load no
Brake lever Right lever Left lever Brake assignment £ front wheel brake £ front wheel brake
£ rear wheel brake £ rear wheel brake
DANG ER!
Read at least the chapters “Tests before your first ride” and “Tests before
G
every ride”.
Stamp and signature of the SCOTT dealer
kg
The above-described SCOTT bike was delivered to the customer ready for use, i.e. after its final assembly, inspection and functional check as described below (additionally required routines in parentheses).
£ Lighting £ Brakes front and rear £ Wheel set (trueness/spoke ten-
sion/tyre pressure)
£ Handlebars/stem (position/bolts
checked with torque wrench)
£ Pedals (adjustment of release force
if necessary)
£ Gears (limit stops: adjustment,
functio n)
SCOTT dealer
Name
Street
City
Phone
Fax
E-Mail
Handover date, stamp, signature of the SCOTT dealer
The customer confirms with his signature that he received the SCOTT bike in proper condition along with the accompanying documents specified below and that he was instructed on the proper use of the SCOTT bike.
Additional manuals on this SCOTT info CD
Brake system, pedal system, seat post, stem, gear system
Customer
Last name, first name
Street
ZIP code/city
Phone, fax
E-Mail
Location, date, signature
£ Saddle/seat post (height and
position of saddle adjusted to suit customer, bolts checked with torque wrench)
£ Bolted connections of attach-
ment parts (checked with torque wren ch)
£ Tes t r ide £ Other routines performed
| 124
ENGLISH
ENGLISH
125 |
Page 64
All righ ts reser ved ©2017 SCOTT Sp orts SA
Distribution: SSG (Europe) Distribution Center SA P.E.D Zon e C1, Ru e Du Kiell 60 | 679 0 Aubange | Bel gium
V6.1/24012017
WWW.SCOTT-SPORTS.COM
SCOTT Sports SA Route du Crochet 17, CH–1762 Givisiez Phone: +41 26 460 16 16 | Fax: +41 26 460 16 00 Email: scottsupport@scott-sports.com
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