Methanol Main Body to E85 Calibration Instructions
To properly utilize your new carburetor main body please follow these
simple step-by-step instructions. Please use proper safety precautions when
handling gasoline or similar fuels.
1. After removing the carburetor from the engine, drain all gasoline from
the fuel bowls. This can be accomplished by removing one of the lower
fuel bowl screws and allowing the fuel to drain into an approved
container. With a funnel, turn the carburetor upside down; activate the
throttle several times to drain the fuel out of the accelerator pump
cavities.
2. In order for your new carburetor to run properly using E85 fuel you must
convert your new main body from its standard methanol calibration to the
desired E85 calibration. First install the supplied #40 squirters in place of
the original ones followed by the 0.028” high speed air bleed (these are
the bleeds closest to the squirter) followed by the 0.063” idle air bleed.
3. Before proceeding any further, you should check to be certain that your
new carburetor main body will fit your carburetor. With your carburetor
upside down, measure the diameter of the venturi at its lowest point
(where it attaches to the throttle body). This measurement should be
equal to that of your existing throttle body, i.e. 1.69” or 1.75”
4. Once the fuel bowl has been emptied, you can now remove the remaining
three fuel bowl screws.
5. With the fuel bowl screws removed attempt to separate the fuel bowl,
metering block from the main body. If these components cannot be
removed by hand it is likely your carburetor has been assembled with
“sticky” adhesive coated gaskets.
6. Separating these components can be somewhat difficult but not
impossible. With a soft-faced hammer, tap repeatedly on the sides of the
fuel bowl and metering block in an effort to break the gasket seal. If this
method proves to be unsuccessful it will then become necessary to pry
the components apart. This is a last resort, when all other methods fail.
Wedge a large blade, common tip screwdriver between the air cleaner
ring and the center the metering block. With a gentle rocking motion,
push the metering block away from the main body. Once the fuel bowl
and metering block separate from the main body turn over the assembly
and attempt to pry the metering block away from the fuel bowl, using the
accelerator pump housing as an anchor and press outward on the
accelerator pump boss on the bottom of the metering block (where the
aluminum plug is located).
7. Now remove the throttle body from the main body, using a number 2
phillips head or larger screw driver.
8. Prepare the metering block and fuel bowl for reassembly by removing all
gasket material. Although with “sticky” type this is a difficult and time
consuming process, optimum performance can only be achieved with
clean sealing surfaces. Softening the gasket material with a quality
carburetor cleaner is an effect way to dislodge the gasket and sealant.
9. Reassembly begins with reinstalling the throttle body. If your throttle
body has two locator dowel pins, install the provided gasket on the
throttle body. If your throttle body does not have locator pins, with the
carburetor upside down, position the gasket to line up with the bolt holes.
10. Insert the six retaining screws (yes, there are only six not eight, the two
center screws are not used) and tighten in a criss-cross pattern. Target
torque specification is 30 inch pounds (2.5 ft. pounds) with a minimum
torque value of 20 inch pounds (1.7 ft. pounds)
11. Install the new metering block and fuel bowl gaskets on the metering
block(s). These gaskets should align with the cast-in pins. NOTE: for
vacuum secondary carburetors, install the metering block gasket
provided (the one without the large cut out in the center) insert the small
paper gasket between your old metering plate and the new steel
reinforcement plate provided. Position this assembly on the new
carburetor main body so the alignment pins enable the metering plate
assembly to fit flush to the main body gasket. Insert the six clutch head
screws and tighten in a criss-cross pattern to the target torque value of 18
inch pounds (1.5 ft. lbs.)
12. On the primary side, position the metering block on the new main body
so the alignment pins allow it to sit flush. With the accelerator pump arm
in the upright position, install the fuel bowl. Note: be sure the accelerator
pump arm is positioned on top of the fuel bowl accelerator pump
operating lever. It may be necessary to slightly rotate the fuel bowl
clockwise to put the fuel bowl on. Once in position, install the new nylon
fuel bowl gaskets provided (be sure to remove all of the old gasket) and
insert the fuel bowl screws. Tighten in a criss-cross pattern to a target
torque value of 30 inch pounds (2.5 ft. lbs.). It is important these screw
be tight as poor idle and off-idle performance will result.