Pfaff select 1520, select 1530, select 1540 Instruction Manual

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1520 1530 1540

Instruction manual

Parts of your select sewing machine

1 Connection socket “foot control with main cord”

2 Main switch

3 Handwheel release disk

4 Handwheel

5 Bobbin winder

6 Lid with stitches

7 Extra spool holder

8 Spool holder with spool cap

9 Take-up lever

10 Needle thread tension dial

11 Threading path

12 Thread cutter

13 Needle threader (1540)

14 Presser foot holder with presser foot

15 Removable accessory tray

16 Base plate

17 IDT System / Integrated Dual Feed (1540/1530)

18 Needle holder with ﬁ xing screw

19 Presser foot lifter

20 Button for “reverse sewing”

21 Stitch length dial

22 Stitch selection 1540

23 Carrying handle

24 Stitch selection 1530 & 1520

25 Thread guide

26 Sewing lamp (max. 15 watt)

27 Stitch width dial

28 Needle position dial

29 Needle plate

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

For the United States only

When you use an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be adhered to as follows: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning it.

2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.

3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.

4. Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WARNING To reduce the risk of burns, ﬁ re , electric shock, or injury to persons:

5. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children.

6. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

7. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

8. Never operate the sewing machine with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

9. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

10. Do not use outdoors.

11. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

12. To disconnect, turn all controls to off (“O”) position, then remove plug, not the cord.

13. Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be blocked.

14. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

15. Keep ﬁ ngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

16. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

17. Do not use bent or blunt needles. Use needles recommended by the manufacturer only.

18. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deﬂ ect the needle, causing it to break.

19. Switch the sewing machine off (“O”) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.

20. Always unplug sewing machine from the electric outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

21. Hold plug when rewinding into cord reel. Do not allow plug to whip when rewinding.

Please also observe the general safety notes on opposite page.

This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSEHOLD use only

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

Introduction

Accessories and needles 55-56

Accessory tray 3

Appliqué 51

Appliqué foot 62

Bias-tape binder 61

Blind stitch 25

Bobbin case 8-9

Buttonholes 33, 51

Changing the needle plate 68

Changing the needle 15

Cleaning and oiling 68

Closed overlock stitch 29

Cording foot 62

Covering stitch 30-31

Darning with the elastic stitch 38

Darning with the straight stitch 37

Darning 37-38

Decorative sewing 47-54

Drawing up the bobbin thread 12

Dropping the feed dog 15

Elastic stitch 27

Elastic stitches 26-29

Electrical connection 2

Embroidering with a dense zigzag stitch 48-51

Eyelet embroidery 52

Feather stitch 30

Felling foot 59

Free arm 3

Fringe foot 63

Gathering foot 59

Gathering with elastic thread 36

Gathering with the straight stitch 36

General information on sewing 23

Handwheel release disk 4

Hemming with the twin needle 35

Hemstitch seam 54

Honeycomb stitch 27

Inserting lace 43

Integrated Dual feed / IDT 14

Left needle position 16

Main switch 2

Maintenance and trouble-shooting 67-70

Monograms 48

Needle table 64-65

Needle thread tension 15,23

Needle threader 11

Non-elastic stitches 24-25

Oiling the sewing machine 68

Open overlock stitch 28

Optional accessories 58-66

Overlock stitches 28-29

Patchwork quilt 53

Pennant stitch 31

Placing sewing thread on spool holder 5

Practical sewing 21-44

Presser foot lifter 13

Pullover stitch 29

Pushbutton controls 18

Contents

Introduction

Quilt and patchwork foot 63

Quilting 53, 63

Removable accessory tray 3

Removing the presser foot 13

Repairing tears 38

Reverse sewing 17

Richelieu 52

Right needle position 16

Rufﬂ er 61

Selecting needle position 16

Selecting stitch width 16

Serging with blindstitch and overlock stitch 25, 28-29

Serging with zigzag stitch 24

Setting stretch stitches 17-19

Setting utility stitches 17-19

Sewing light 69

Sewing on buttons 34

Sewing on patches 38

Sewing on zippers 40-41

Sewing table Introduction

Shirring foot 79

Shell-edging 44

Smocking 35

Special accessories table 58

Stabilizing edges 42

Standard buttonhole 33

Standard buttonhole with gimp thread 33

Stitch density 17

Stitch length adjustment dial 17

Stitch selection dial 19

Straight stitch 24

Stretch triple straight stitch 26

Stretch triple zigzag stitch 26

Tapering 49-51

Thread tension 15

Thread cutter 12

Threading the upper thread 10

Top feed (Integrated Dual Feed) 14

Top-stitching 23

Trouble-shooting 70

Twin needle 11, 35

Utility stitch table Introduction

Winding from the second

spool holder 6

Winding the bobbin 4-7

Winding through the needle 7

Zigzag stitch 24

Introduction

Stitch table (non-elastic stitches)

select 1540

select 1530 & select 1520

Stitch Description Application

1540 1530/1520

A/B/C A/B/C

Buttonhole Standard buttonhole for blouses or be linens

D H Blind stitch with zigzag For invisible hemming with simultaneous (elastic) seam/overcasting. Especially for stretch material

E – Greek stitch with zigzag A traditional decorative stitch e.g. for towel borders

F – Scallop stitch A traditional decorative stitch e.g. for embroidering blouses or table linens

G E Straight stitch, For all straight stitching and top 15 needle positions stitching work up to 6 mm Stitch width dial set at 0

Zigzag stitch, For serging and appliqué. Also suitable for 15 needle positions, stitch tapering, eyelet embroidery and cording work

width dial set at 0.5 – 5

Left needle position Straight stitch: For all sewing and top-stitching (for straight stitch operations which require a left needle position. and zigzag stitch) Zigzag stitch: For serging, appliqué and tapering.

Center needle position Straight stitch: For most sewing and top-stitching operations. Zigzag for most zigzag operations.

Right needle position For all sewing and top-stitching operations which (for straight stitch require a right needle position. Zigzag stitch: and zigzag stitch) For serging, appliqué, tapering and cording work

H – Blind stitch For invisible hemming on sturdier materials

I – Greek stitch, wide A traditional decorative stitch

K I Shell-edging stitch For decorative hem edges on light fabrics e.g. lingerie

L – Fancy elastic stitch For ﬂ at overlapped seams

M F Elastic stitch For overcasting, sewing on elastic, darning tears and inserting patches

IG – Viennese stitch Decorative stitch e.g. for household textiles

LC – Emperor stitch, narrow A dainty decorative stitch

LG – Emperor stitch, wide A dainty decorative stitch

LI K Greek stitch, narrow A traditional decorative stitch

MDF – Decorative stitch A traditional decorative stitch

– G Decorative stitch Decorative stitch e.g. for quilting

Introduction

select 1540

select 1530 & select 1520

Stitch table (stretch stitches)

Stitch Description Application

1540 1530/1520

D – Peacock’s eye stitch Elastic closing and serging seam. The material must be turned by 180 degrees

E – Cover stitch For top-stitching and overstitching stretch materials, e.g. cuffs, hems and panels

F – Herringbone stitch A decorative stitch for top-stitching or whip stitching hems, e.g. pajamas and sweatsuits

G E Stretch triple straight stitch, For stretch seams, e.g. inside seams as well as 15 needle positions seams on sportswear and workwear

Stretch triple zigzag stitch, For sewing elastic bands on elastic materials or 15 needle positions seams on stretch materials Stitch width knob 0.5 – 5

Left needle position For elastic seams which require a left needle (for stretch triple straight position and zigzag stitches)

Center needle position For elastic seams which require a center needle (for stretch triple straight and position zigzag stitches)

Right needle position For elastic seams which require a right needle (for stretch triple straight position and zigzag stitches)

H – Pullover stitch Elastic closing and serging seams for jersey. The material must be turned by 180 degrees

I K Closed overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for materials which fray easily

K I Open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for sturdy materials or materials which do not fray easily

L – Feather stitch For joining two ﬁ nished edges with a gap between, e.g. hemstitching. Also for crazy quilting

M F Honeycomb stitch For sewing on elastic thread, overstitching terry cloth seams and for ornamental hem seams.

IG – Penant stitch A decorative stitch also used as a covering stitch KM – Cord stitch A loose decorative stitch – G Heavy open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam on heavy materials – H Decorative stitch Embellishment

Introduction

select 1540

Stitch table (stretch stitches)

Stitch Description Application

1540 1530/1520

LC – Dutch stitch, narrow A decorative stitch, e.g. for household textiles

LD – Dutch stitch A decorative stitch, e.g. for household textiles

LG – Border stitch A decorative stitch, e.g. for traditional embroidery

LI – Weaving stitch An ornamental stitch, e.g. for bath accessories

EK – Spiral stitch A decorative stitch, e.g. for household textiles

EL – Diagonal coverstitch For top-stitching and overstitching stretch materials, i.e. cuffs, hems and panels

FG – Turkish stitch with zigzag A top-stitching seam for patchwork and quilting

ID – Branch stitch A decorative elastic stitch, e.g. for sportswear

IF – Floss stitch For whip-stitching hems, e.g. on pajamas and sweatsuits. The material must be turned by 180 degrees

LK – Diagonal stitch An elastic decorative stitch

LMK – Triangle stitch A decorative, elastic stitch

MG – Florentine stitch A stretch, decorative stitch

Operate your Pfaff select

Electrical connection 2

Removable accessory tray 3

Bobbins 4-7

Bobbin case 8-9

Threading the needle 10

Needle threader 11

Pulling up the bobbin thread 12

Presser foot lifter 13

Thread cutter 12

Changing the presser foot 13

IDT System/Integrated Dual Feed 14

Changing the needle 15

Needle thread tension 15

Lowering the feed dog 15

Stitch width dial 16

Needle position dial 16

Reverse sewing 17

Stitch length dial 17

Stitch selection 18-19

220 V

120 V

Operate your Pfaff select

Carrying-case

Place the cords, foot control and instruction book in the compartment of the carrying-case

Top cover

Open the folding cover (6) upwards

The stitches of the sewing machine are illustrated on the inside of the top cover.

Connecting the foot control

Connect the plug of the foot control to the connecting socket (1) of the sewing machine and to the wall socket. The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the foot control.

Additionally, you can regulate the sewing speed by moving the slide on the front part of the foot control.

Position

= half speed

Position

= full speed

For this sewing machine, a foot controller typ AW 0253 or AE 013 must to be used.

Main switch

When the main switch (2) is switched on, the sewing lamp lights up.

The sewing machine is now ready to use.

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to ﬁ t in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not ﬁ t fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not ﬁ t, contact a qualiﬁ ed electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Operate your Pfaff select

Accessory tray

Your Pfaff select sewing machine has a removable accessory tray (15) which is also used as an extended work support.

Model 1540, has a special removable accessory organizer. The enclosed accessories are numbered. Sort the enclosed accessories into the corresponding sections of the accessory organizer.

Using the free arm

In order to sew with the free arm, you must remove the accessory tray. Using both hands, swing the accessory tray (15) to the left and lift it out of the hole.

When replacing the removable accessory tray to its proper position, ensure that it is ﬂ ush with the free arm of the sewing machine.

Operate your Pfaff select

Preparing the machine for bobbin winding

Hold the handwheel (4) ﬁ rmly and turn the handwheel release disc (3) until it stops in the direction of the arrow. This stops the needle from moving while the machine is winding the bobbin.

Placing the bobbin

Switch off the main switch (2)

Place the empty bobbin so that the black pin of the bobbin winder (5) snaps into the slot of the bobbin.

Push the bobbin to the right

Note: The bobbin can only be wound when it is moved fully to the right.

Operate your Pfaff select

Winding the bobbin from the spool holder

Place the sewing thread on the spool holder (8). To guarantee free movement of the thread and to give additional hold to the thread spool, ﬁ t a spool cap corresponding to the size of the thread spool

Threading

Place the thread into guide A and pull it through opening B and to the right under the hook D. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around in the bobbin.

Switch on the main switch

Hold the end of the thread ﬁ rmly and press the foot control. The winding action will stop automatically as soon as the bobbin is full. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and remove it.

Don’t forget:

Turn the handwheel release disk (3) fully back again. Then turn the handwheel (4) towards you until it snaps into place.

Operate your Pfaff select

Winding from the second spool holder

Push the second spool holder (7) into its hole and place a spool of thread with the corresponding spool cap on it.

Threading

Place the thread into guide C and pull it through opening B to the right under hook D. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around the bobbin.

Switch on the main switch

Hold the end of thread ﬁ rmly and press the the foot control. The winding action will stop automatically as soon as the bobbin is full.

Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and remove it.

Don’t forget:

Turn the handwheel release disk (3) fully back again. Then turn the handwheel (4) towards you until it snaps into place.

TIP: If the machine is already threaded, you can easily wind thread from the second spool holder without having to unthread the machine.

Operate your Pfaff select

Winding through the needle

Even if the machine has been completely threaded, you can still wind the bobbin.

Raise presser foot lifter (19). Pass the needle thread through the presser foot and downwards; then through the right threading slot (11) and upwards.

Now, pull the thread into the take-up lever from left to right (9). The take-up lever must be positioned at its very top.

Pass the thread to the right under the guide hook D. Then wind the thread several times around the bobbin. Press the foot control and winding the bobbin.

Don’t forget:

Make sure to stop the needle from moving while winding the bobbin (see page 4).

Operate your Pfaff select

Bobbin Case/Hook Cover

Switch off the main switch

Hold the side of the bobbin case/hook cover and open it towards you.

Removing the bobbin case

Raise the bobbin case lever and pull out the bobbin case. Release the lever and remove the empty bobbin.

Thread tension

To ensure perfect sewing and a durable seam, the top and bottom thread-tensions must be well adjusted to each other and the threads must be interlaced between the two fabric pieces. The interlacing should be visible from the underside of the material only when sewing decorative seams, buttonholes and darning.

Operate your Pfaff select

Inserting the bobbin

Insert the full bobbin into the bobbin case. In doing so, pull the thread sideways through slot A, then under the tension plate B until it rests in the opening (see arrow).

Check: When you look at the bobbin and pull the thread, the bobbin must turn clockwise.

Inserting the bobbin case

Lift lever F and slide the bobbin case onto the hook pin D as far as it will go. Opening E of the bobbin case must face upwards.

Check: Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbin case must not fall out of the hook.

Operate your Pfaff select

Threading the needle thread

Switch off the main switch

Raise the presser foot lifter (19) and turn the handwheel until the take-up lever (9) has moved to the top. Place the thread on the spool holder (8) and ﬁ t the corresponding spool cap.

Now, using both hands, pull the thread into guide A and under thread guide hook D. Pass the thread through the lefthand threading slot (11) and downwards. Pull the thread around stop E into the righthand threading slot and upwards to the take-up lever (9).

The thread must be pulled into the take up lever (9) from left to right and downwards again in the righthand threading slot. Finally, pass the thread from the side behind one of the two thread guides (25).

To thread the needle, place the thread from front to back through the needle eye.

To thread the needle using the needle threader (Model 1540), please refer to the next page.

Operate your Pfaff select

Needle threader (Model 1540)

To make threading the needle easier and quicker, you have been provided with the PFAFF needle threader (13). Lower the presser foot. Turn the handwheel until the needle is at its highest position. Place the needle thread under hook A and hold it taut. Move the needle threader fully downwards and turn it towards the needle so that the small hook B goes through the needle eye. Place the thread into the hook from below.

Turn the needle threader towards the rear, releasing the thread carefully, and allow the threader to move upwards. You can now pull the thread through the needle eye.

Threading the twin needle

Insert the twin needle.

Fit the second spool holder and place one spool of thread on each holder.

In the left threading slot (11) you will ﬁ nd tension disk A. During threading, make sure that you pass one thread left and one thread right over tension disk A.

Carry on threading in the usual way, but make sure the threads are not twisted with each other.

Pull the threads right and left into thread guide (25) and thread the needles.

Note: You cannot use the needle threader for a twin needle (Model 1540).

Operate your Pfaff select

Drawing up the bobbin thread

Turn off the main switch Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread

and turn the handwheel towards you until the needle is at the top again and the bobbin thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up the bobbin thread.

Bobbin thread

Close the bobbin case/hook cover and pull the thread under the presser foot to the left.

Thread cutter

Pull the threads from the back to the front over the thread cutter (12).

Operate your Pfaff select

Presser foot lifter

The presser foot is raised or lowered with the presser foot lifter (19).

Removing the presser foot

Turn off the main switch

Position the needle at its highest point

Press the presser foot upwards at the front and downwards at the back at the same time so that it disengages from the presser foot holder (14)

Engaging the presser foot

Place the presser foot under the presser foot holder (14) so that when the presser foot lifter (19) is lowered, the pins of the foot engage in the presser foot holder.

Check: Please check that the presser foot is properly engaged by raising the presser foot lifter.

Operate your Pfaff select

The Intigrated dual feed/IDT System (Models 1530 and 1540)

PFAFF offers the ideal solution for sewing difﬁ cult materials: the intigrated dual feed. This system feeds the material from the top and bottom simultaneously as is done in industrial sewing machines. The fabric is fed precisely. When sewing light or difﬁ cult materials such as silk and rayon fabrics, the dual feed prevents seam puckering.

Engaging the Intigrated Dual feed

(Models 1530, 1540)

Important! For all sewing jobs with the top feed, only use sewing feet with cutout at the back.

Raise the presser foot. Then push the top feed (17) downwards until it snaps into place.

Disengaging the Intigrated Dual Feed

Hold the dual feed with two ﬁ ngers at the marked places. Push the top feed (17) down a little and out to the rear, and let it move slowly upwards.

The even feeding action also ensures perfect matching of checked and striped fabrics.

Operate your Pfaff select

Changing the needle

Switch off the main switch

To remove: Lower the presser foot and move the needle to its highest point. Now loosen the ﬁ xing screw (18) and pull the needle downwards.

To insert: The ﬂ at side A of the needle must face to the rear. Lower the presser foot and insert the needle, pushing it up as far as it goes. Hold the needle and tighten the ﬁ xing screw (18) ﬁ rmly.

Setting the needle thread tension

Set the required needle thread tension (10) with the help of the mark A.

The normal setting for sewing is 4 to 5.

For embroidering, darning and buttonhole set the tension between 2 and 3.

Dropping the feed dog

For certain sewing work, e.g. darning the feed dog has to be dropped. To do this, open the bobbin case/hook cover and move slide A fully to the right. Now the feed dog is dropped.

Operate your Pfaff select

Stitch width dial

The stitch width can be adjusted with this dial (27). When selecting the width, the needle must not be in the material.

Basic setting: Turn the stitch width knob (27) to the symbol

(maximum stitch width).

Exception: Straight stitch is sewn with stitch width 0.

In chapter “Utility stitches and practical sewing” (pages 21-44), you will ﬁ nd recommendations in the tables for the stitch width selection of individual stitches. During sewing you can also change the stitch width.

Needle position dial

In the center needle position

, 14 additional needle positions can be selected by turning the needle positioning dial (28) in increments to the left or right. The furthest needle position to the left

can be achieved by turning the dial(28) as far as it will go to the right. The furthest needle position

to the right can be achieved by turning the dial as far as it will go the left. When the position of the needle is being changed, the needle must not be in the material.

Note: If you have selected the right needle position, you can now use the width dial (27) to increase or reduce the width of the left side of the stitch. The reverse applies also for needle position to the left (see page 49).

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Reverse sewing

The machine sews in reverse only as long as the reverse sewing button (20) is pressed.

Stitch length adjustment dial

With the stitch length adjustment dial (21) you can adjust the stitch length between 0 and 6 mm by turning the point marking on the button to the required length.

Between the numbers 0 and 1 you will ﬁ nd the “buttonhole” symbol. This area is the optimum stitch density for sewing buttonholes and embroidering.

The further you turn the dial to 0, the higher the density of the stitch.

To sew stretch stitches (dark background), you must turn the stitch length adjustment dial (21) as far as it will go in the grey area.

Operate your Pfaff select

Utility stitches

Each stitch has been given a letter that you can ﬁ nd on the push button controls. By pressing the correct button, the stitch is selected and the machine is ready to sew. Button B releases the buttons that have been activated.

Under the lid (6) you will ﬁ nd the stitch table with all the utility stitches and stitch combinations.

Stretch stitches

All the stitches with a colored background are stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for stretch material. Press the selected button down and turn the stitch length dial (21) as far as it will go in the grey area.

Button B releases the button that have already been activated.

Utility and stretch stitch combinations

By pushing two or several buttons you can create combinations in the utility stitch range.

The stitch length dial can either be in the normal sewing range or in the stretch range.

All the stitch combinations are illustrated on the stitch table in the lid. You can release buttons that are already activated with button B.

Stitch selection, push button controls – select 1540

Operate your Pfaff select

Stitch selection, stitch dial – select 1530, 1520

Utility stitches

Each stitch is identiﬁ ed by a letter. The stitches and their corresponding letters are shown on the inside of the lid, a chart is also found in the Introduction chapter.

Turn the dial (24) until the corresponding letter is positioned below mark A.

Stretch stitches

All the stitches with a colored background are stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for stretch material.

Turn the dial (24) until the corresponding letter is positioned below mark A.

Turn the stitch length dial (21) as far as it will go in the grey area.

Operate your Pfaff select

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Sewing chart 22

General sewing aids 23

Non-elastic stitches 24-25

Elastic stitches 26-27

Overlock stitches 28-29

Covering stitches 30-31

Buttonhole 32-33

Button sewing 34

Hemming with the twin needle 35

Smocking 35

Gathering 36

Darning 37-38

Sewing on zippers 39-41

Stabilizing edges 42

Sewing lace 43

Shell edging 44

1540

1530

1520

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Explanation of the sewing chart

The following charts show the recommended settings for each stitch or technique.

These charts also provide you with further instructions that are necessary when sewing the selected stitches.

The choice of the sewing foot, the setting of the needle thread tension and whether the sewing is carried out with the top feed switched on or off.

Always use the “center” needle position

if not otherwise speciﬁ ced in the

instructions.

stitch

Stitch number

Stitch width in mm

Stitch length in mm

Dual feed on =

off =

Thread tension

Presser foot number

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Needle thread tension

To ensure perfect sewing results, the needle and bobbin thread tensions must be perfectly tuned to each other . The normal setting for utility stitches is in the range of 4-5.

Check the tension with a wide zigzag stitch. The threads must be interlaced between the two fabric pieces.

If the needle thread tension is too high the threads are interlaced above the top fabric. If the needle thread tension is too low, the threads are interlaced below the lower fabric.

The adjustment of the needle thread tension is described on page 15 and the bobbin thread tension on page 8.

Topstitching

Straight stitch G (1540)/E (1530, 1520) can be sewn using any of 15 various needle positions in such a way that you can always guide the sewing foot along the fabric edge for topstitching work. The top-stitch needle position is determined by the needle position dial. If you wish to top-stitch farther from the fabric edge, simply guide the fabric along the guide marks on the needle plate or use the edge guide (standard accessory No.8). The edge guide is inserted into hole A and is secured with ﬁ xing screw B.

Sewing aid for thick seams

To ensure a consistent feed when beginning sewing at a thick seam, we recommend supporting the presser foot on a piece of fabric of the same height as the workpiece

Too high tension

Too low tension

Perfect tension

1540

1530

1520

1540

1530

1520

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Straight stitch

Stitch G/E is the basic straight stitch. The stitch length can be increased up to 6 mm if required.

It is easier to do some sewing jobs by changing the needle position, e.g. top-stitching a collar or sewing in a zipper. You can select up to 15 different needle positions (see page 16).

Please ensure that the needle is at its highest position when adjusting the needle position.

Zigzag stitch

In addition to overlock stitching, zigzag stitch G, stitch width 5

, is also suitable for overcasting various materials. In this case, the material should only be positioned halfway under the sewing foot.

When overcasting the edge, make sure the needle goes into the material and over the edge alternately.

The width for overcasting can be reduced up to 2 mm.

For overcasting difﬁ cult materials, blind stitch foot No. 3 is very useful. When sewing, the thread lies over pin C, thus preventing curling of the fabric edge. In this way you can sew beautiful smooth seams.

The raw edge must be guided along edge guide B. You can adjust this edge guide with adjusting screw A.

Important: When the blind stitch foot is used for overcasting with the zigzag stitch, select the right needle position. Choose a stitch width in the range of 3-5 mm (do not use any other needle position).

stitch

2,5

3-5

0/1

stitch

1-2

3-5

0/1

1540

1530

1520

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Remember!

When blind stitching, if you select a needle position other than right,

and stitch width other than 5, make sure the needle does not strike the bar of presser foot 3.

If the stitches are visible on the right side, adjust edge guide B by turning adjusting screw A.

Use the needle position

and the width dial (27) to regulate the penetration of the needle in the crease.

Stitch H (1540)

Stitch D (1540), stitch H (1530/1520)

Blind stitch (Model 1540)

Blind stitch H is best suited for invisible hems; sewing by hand is no longer necessary.

• Serge the edge of the hem

• Fold the edge inwards by the hem width.

• Now unfold the hem again so that the hem edge protrudes by about 1 cm

• Place the fabric under the sewing foot so that the crease line runs along edge guide B.

• Using the needle positioning knob 28, select the needle position to the right

• When the needle enters the crease line, it must only pick up one ﬁ ber of the fabric.

Blind stitch (elastic)

Stitch D (1540) or H (1530/1520) is a blind stitch for woven or elastic materials. The hem is sewn and overcast at the same time.

stitch

H/D

- /H

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Stretch triple straight stitch

This stitch is used for sewing all seams where great strength is needed, e.g. inside trouser seams.

Turn the stitch length dial away from you as far as it will go for the longest stitch length.

Stretch triple zigzag stitch

The stretch triple zigzag stitch is a highly elastic and decorative seam which is very suitable for hems on T-shirts and underwear.

• Serge the edge of the hem.

• Fold the hem inwards at the required width.

• Topstitch the hem from the right side.

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Stretch

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Honeycomb stitch

The honeycomb stitch is an elastic and decorative hem which is particularly suitable for hems on T-shirts and childrens clothes.

• Fold the hem over double and overstitch it.

Elastic stitch

Because of its high elasticity, this stitch can be used for sewing elastic on swimwear, skirts or lingerie.

• Mark elastic and fabric in quarters.

• Pin elastic to fabric at quarter markings.

• Place fabric and elastic under sewing foot.

• Stretch elastic to ﬁ t the fabric. Begin sewing.

Note: When stretching elastic, make sure to stretch from the front and back of the sewing foot.

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

What is an overlock stitch?

For elastic materials and knits, the select models offer overlock stitches which sew two fabric layers together and overcast simultaneously. They are more elastic than normal seams, very durable and quickly sewn.

Tip: We recommend using blind stitch foot No. 3 when sewing overlock seams. It guides particularly well and prevents the seam from puckering even on wide seams.

Open overlock stitch

With this stitch, thicker materials and fabrics which do not fray too much can be sewn together perfectly.

TIP: Make sure that the needle sews to the right of the material just over the edge and not in it.

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Stretch

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Closed overlock stitch

The closed overlock stitch is perfect for sewing jersey knits. You can also sew sleeve cuffs and knit collars which are well-sewn and longlasting.

TIP: Ensure that the sleeve cuff is stretched while it is being sewn.

Remember!

When overlocking, if you select a needle position other than center,

and stitch width other than 5 , make sure the needle does not strike the bar of sewing foot 3.

Pullover stitch (Model 1540)

This stitch is suitable for open-knit fabrics. Fashion-knit garment sections can also be joined effortlessly with this stitch. Make sure that the material is fed to the right of the needle, not to the left.

TIP: To prevent the seam from stretching while sewing, it is advisable to add a woolen thread under light tension.

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Stretch

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

What is a covering stitch?

You can use the following stitches for sewing a ﬂ at covering seam. This produces a so called “ﬂ atlock effect” which lends a professional look to collar plackets or raglan seams.

The covering stitches are only available on select 1540.

Feather stitch (Model 1540)

With the feather stitch you can sew highly elastic materials with an effect similar to that of hem stitching, e.g. lingerie.

• Serge the fabric edges and baste them over.

• Lay the edges to be sewn underneath the pressing foot with a distance between the edges of about 3 mm.

• Stitch from the face side, ensuring that the needle perforates the material both right and left.

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Stretch

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Fancy elastic stitch (Model 1540)

The fancy elastic stitch is very useful for materials that require a ﬂ at seam, e.g. terry cloth and ﬂ eece.

• Place the two fabric edges so that they overlap by about 2 cm and overstitch each edge with fancy elastic stitch.

Pennant stitch (Model 1540)

The pennant stitch is one of the many types of covering stitches. Since it can be stretched it is particularly suitable for overstitching the bands on elastic materials, e.g. sweatshirts or sportswear.

• Sew the band onto the part with an overlock stitch (see pgs 28,29)

• The seam allowance can now be overstitched from the right side of the fabric. Make sure that the needle enters in the shadow of the seam.

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Stretch

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Buttonholes

Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all the models with pushbutton controls since the fabric does not have to be turned.

Buttonholes are generally sewn onto a piece of doubled fabric. However, for some materials, e.g. silk, organza and viscose, it is necessary to use stabilizer to prevent the material from contracting while sewing.

To produce beautiful seams, embroidering or darning threads are ideally suited to this purpose.

Mark the starting point of the buttonhole either with a magic pen or dress pin, and always sew a sample buttonhole ﬁ rst.

Note: Before starting any buttonhole, always push the guide of the buttonhole foot fully to the front, i.e. so that the red arrow is at the ﬁ rst red mark. The red marks are arranged at an interval of 0.5 cm. They are a guide when determining the length of the buttonhole.

1540 – Standard buttonhole

• Insert the buttonhole foot and slide the foot forward as far as it will go.

• Select stitch 1 (C) and sew the right side of the buttonhole to the required length. Clip the top thread after a few stitches.

• Select stitch 2 (B) and hold the button down as you sew a few bartacks.

• Select stitch 3 (A) and sew the left side of the buttonhole until it matches the previous side in length.

• Select stitch 4 (B) and hold the button down as you sew a few bartacks.

• Release button B and sew a couple stitches to secure your buttonhole.

• Carefully cut open your buttonhole with scissors or a seam rippper.

Tip: If you would like to sew very ﬁ ne buttonholes, you can reduce the buttonhole width with the stitch width dial (27) down to approx. 3 mm. Use the center needle position

CBA

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

1520/1530 – Standard buttonhole

• Insert the buttonhole foot and slide the foot forward as far as it will go.

• Select stitch A. Sew the left side of the buttonhole to the required length. Clip the top thread after a few stitches.

• Select stitch B and sew a few bartacks while holding the fabric securely.

• Select stitch C. Sew the right side of the buttonhole until it matches the previous side in length.

• Select stitch B and sew a few bartacks while holding the fabric securely.

• Select stitch D. Secure the buttonhole by sewing a few stitches.

• Carfully cut open your buttonhole with scissors or a seam ripper.

Tip: If you would like to sew very ﬁ ne buttonholes, you can reduce the buttonhole width with the stitch width dial (27) down to approx. 3 mm. Use the center needle position

Standard buttonhole with gimp thread

To sew especially durable buttonholes, on heavy fabrics, knits or sportswear, we recommend using a gimp thread.

On knits the gimp thread is particularly important to prevent the buttonhole from stretching.

• Lay the gimp thread over the rear protrusion A and pass the thread ends underneath the presser foot towards the front.

• Clamp the threads to the left and right of protrusion B.

• Slide the buttonhole runner as far forwards as possible and sew the buttonhole as described for your select model.

• Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the buttonhole and cut the threads.

Carfully cut open your buttonhole with scissors or a seam ripper.

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ABC

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Sewing on buttons

With zigzag stitch G/E (stitch width 4 mm) you can sew on two- and four-hole buttons.

• Remove the sewing foot and lower the feed dog

• Turn the handwheel towards you and move the button in such a way that the needle enters the left hole in the button

• Now lower the presser foot lifter; this holds the button off the blade.

• Sew on the button. Take care to ensure that the needle also enters the right-hand hole in the button.

Securing

• Select straight stitch by turning the width dial (27) to 0.

• Change the needle position with the needle position dial (28) so that the needle enters one of the two holes.

• Sew a few securing stitches.

Sewing on buttons with shanks

Insert the sewing foot

• Place a match between the holes of the button and sew it on as described to the left.

• Remove the match and pull the fabric and the button apart.

• Wrap the shank you have just created with sewing thread and knot it. (See illustrations below)

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Hemming with the twin needle

Use the twin needle to make beatiful topstitch seams.

Using the twin needle you can add a professional touch to hems on stretch materials such as T-shirts, knitted articles or cycling shorts both quickly and easily.

Twin needles are available in different widths. The traditional width for topstitching is 4 mm. To prevent the needle from striking the needle plate, you must make sure that you select the center needle position .

• First fold and iron the width of fabric desired for the hem.

• Then topstitch the hem from the right side.

• Finally, cut the protruding hem edge back to the seam.

Use only a stretch needle when sewing stretch material!

Tip: On difﬁ cult materials such as ribbed knitwear it is advisable to baste the hem before topstitching it.

On page 11 you will ﬁ nd a description of how to thread the twin needle.

Smocking effect with elastic threads

Fine, light fabrics such as Batist, rayon and silk are particularly suitable for beautiful smocking work. For smocking work with the elastic thread, you should use an additional bobbin case and wind the bobbin by hand with the elastic thread. As the elastic thread is much stronger than the normal bobbin thread, the tension of the bobbin case must be set at very low.

Don’t forget, the higher the bobbin thread tension, the more intense the gathering effect.

• Sew a test seam to determine the level of gather.

• Mark the ﬁ rst line on the right side of the fabric and sew along it.

• Each additional seam can be sewn at a presser foot’s width from the ﬁ rst row.

• When sewing several seams next to one another, you must stretch the fabric to its original length when sewing the subsequent seams. Otherwise, the gather will be irregular.

• Knot the threads at the beginning and end of the seam on the reverse side.

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Gathering with the straight stitch

Using a straight stitch, you can gather sleeves, skirts and valances with a stitch length of 6 mm. To ensure consistent gathering you should sew two or three rows of gathering.

• Mark the ﬁ rst line on the right side of the fabric and sew along it. Allow the threads to extend approx. 10 – 20 cm.

• Each subsequent seam can be sewn one presser foot width from the last.

• Gather the piece of fabric by pulling the bobbin thread. You determine the amount of gather by how much you pull the thread.

• Finally, the thread ends are knotted to secure the gather.

Gathering with elastic thread

Sleeve and waist seams can be gathered by sewing over an elastic thread.

• Mark the ﬁ rst gathering seam on the reverse side of the fabric.

• Sew a few stitches using stitch M/F. Leave the needle in the fabric. The needle must be in the center of the presser foot. Raise the presser foot and lay the elastic thread around the needle.

• Lower the presser foot and sew a few stitches. Then pull the elastic thread evenly at both ends.

• Determine the amount of gather by the amount you pull the threads.

• The gather can also be altered after sewing by pulling the ends of the elastic threads.

• Finally, knot the threads and elastic.

Tip: The cording foot (special accessory) is particularly suitable for gathering. Due to its guide grooves the elastic is fed evenly during the sewing process.

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Darning with the straight stitch

Insert the darning foot:

Loosen screw D. Set the needle at its highest point and push the pin of the darning foot fully into the hole C of the sewing foot holder. When doing this, the guide fork G should position itself around the presser bar. The lever E must be behind the ﬁ xing screw F. Now tighten screw D.

Darning position:

Lower the presser-foot lifter (A) while pushing it lightly to the rear. This snaps the presser foot lifter into a notch (B) on the back side of the sewing machine into the darning position.

• Place the darning work in the darning hoop.

• Drop the feed dog.

• Pull up the bobbin thread and hold the threads when you start sewing.

• Darn the damaged area by guiding the fabric back and forth evenly in the prescribed direction while ensuring that each line ends with a small curve. This helps to avoid the fabric ripping again.

• When you have ﬁ nished sewing the damaged area, rotate the fabric again.

You determine the stitch length yourself by moving the fabric back and forth.

Tip: If you move the fabric too slowly, small knots will appear on the reverse side of the fabric.

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Optional

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Darning with the elastic stitch

Darning with the elastic stitch is especially suitable for repairing damaged areas.

• Sew over the damaged area in rows until it is well covered. Take care to ensure that the rows overlap.

Sewing on patches

To cover larger holes is it necessary to sew a new piece of fabric onto the damaged area.

• Baste the new piece of fabric onto the damaged area of the face side of the fabric.

• Sew over the fabric edges with the elastic stitch.

• Now cut the damaged area back to the seam from the reverse side of the fabric.

Repairing tears

On tears, frayed edges or small holes it is useful to lay a piece of material under the reverse side of the fabric. The underlayed fabric reinforces the workpiece and ensures perfect repair.

• Lay a piece of fabric underneath the damaged fabric. It must be a little larger than the damaged area.

• Now sew over the damaged area.

• Cut the under layed piece of material back to the seam.

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Sewing on zippers

There are various methods of sewing on zippers. For skirts, we recommend the fully concealed zipper, for men’s and ladies’ trousers the semi concealed zipper. Various zippers are available. We recommend using a metal zipper for strong fabrics such as denim. For all other materials we recommend a plastic zipper.

It is important for all types of zippers to sew very close to the edge of the teeth of the zipper. This is why it is possible to insert the zipper foot either on the right or the left of the presser foot holder.

Additionally, you can set the needle so that it enters close to the edge of the zipper teeth by using one of the 15 available needle positions. If the foot is engaged to the right, the needle must only be moved to the right. If the foot is engaged left, the needle must only be moved to the left.

Left presser foot position

Right presser

foot position

stitch

3-5

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Fully concealed, sew-in zipper

• Insert the zipper foot on the right side.

• Baste in the zipper and lay it underneath the presser foot so that the teeth of the zipper run alongside the foot.

• Stitch in half of the zipper, leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and close the zipper.

• Now you can continue sewing the seam up to the end of the zipper and sew the cross seam.

• Sew the second half of the zipper parallel at the same distance.

• Stop after the ﬁ rst half and leave the needle in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and open the zipper.

• Now you can ﬁ nish sewing the seam.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

The trouser zipper

• Iron the seam allowances, taking care to ensure that the underlap extends by about 4 mm.

• Baste the zipper under the underlap so that the teeth are visible.

• Insert the zipper foot on the right side and move the needle to the right needle position

• Stitch along the edge of the zipper.

• Just before the end of the seam, open the zipper and ﬁ nish sewing the seam.

• Close the zipper and baste the overlap evenly to the other half of the zipper.

• Then sew through the basted seam.

Tip: To achieve a perfect seam, we recommend using the edge guide.

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Stabilizing edges

With the hemmer you can hem blouses, silk scarves and valances with ease, without having to pre-iron the fabric edges. The hemming prevents the edges from fraying and a clean, durable edge is the result.

• Fold the beginning of the fabric edge over twice (approx. 2 mm)

• Lay the folded fabric edge underneath the hemmer and sew a few stitches.

• Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and insert the fabric into the hemmer foot scroll.

• Lower the presser foot and guide the fabric evenly into the hemmer.

Take care to ensure that the fabric does not run under the right half of the presser foot.

Tip: On silk, viscose and chiffon fabrics, the roll hem is particularly attractive with a zigzag stitch

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Attaching lace

You can beautify and remodel home textiles with the desired suitable lace as often as you like.

Here’s how it’s done:

• First serge the cut edges.

• Sew the lace onto the face side of the fabric up to the ﬁ rst corner.

• Fold the corner and sew over it diagonally.

• Sew the following sides in the same way.

Inserting lace

You can achieve a beautiful effect by inserting lace, e.g. on babywear and children’s clothing.

• First the lace is basted onto the right side of the fabric.

• Sew on both sides of the lace at a narrow margin.

• The fabric underneath the lace is cut down the middle and ironed to the side.

• Sew over both edges of the lace with a small, dense, zigzag stitch (stitch width 2-4 mm).

• Cut back the extra fabric.

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Utility stitches and practical sewing

Shell-edging

Shell-edging is especially attractive on thin, soft fabrics such as silk and viscose.

It is often used as an edging on lingerie.

The higher the needle thread tension, the deeper the shell edge feed.

• Serge the fabric edge and iron the seam allowance to the left.

• Take care that the fabric only runs half underneath the presser foot while sewing. This intensiﬁ es the effect of the shelledging.

Tip: By sewing a colored woollen thread into the seam you strengthen the shell-edge while also creating an attractive contrast in the seam. A ﬁ ne fabric of another color can also be used instead of a woollen thread.

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Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques

Sewing table for decorative sewing 46

Decorative stitches 47

Monograms 48

Embroidering with the dense zigzag stitch/Tapering 49-51

Appliqué 51

Richelieu 52

Eyelet embroidery 52

Patchwork quilt 53

Hemstitching 54

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Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques

Decorative stitches

To enhance home textiles or garments, you can produce decorations by selecting different stitches, using different thread/fabric colors or vary length and width of the stitches.

For decorative stitches we recommend using special embroidery threads which are available from your Pfaff dealer. Use stabilizer under the fabric to be decorated. This prevents the material from pulling. Use a magic pen or marking chalk to mark a line for your ﬁ rst row of stitching.

The following recommendations apply to all samples on the following pages.

The stitch length and stitch width can be varied as required.

Always use the center needle position

not otherwise indicated

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0,5-1

2-3

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Stitch number

Stitch width in mm

Stitch length in mm

Dual feed on =

off =

Thread tension

Presser foot number

Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques

Borders with a combination of stitches

(only on select 1540) By combining different stitches as desired you

can easily achieve embroidery effects. This is a simple and pleasing way to embellish tablecloths and garments.

• Place appropriate stabilizer under the fabric.

• Mark the center with tailor’s chalk.

• Begin with the combination M/G Stretch, stitch width 5

. Embroider along the marked line.Then turn the fabric and embroider back down the border in reverse.

• Sew close to the ﬁ rst border with the combination L/K Stretch stitch width 5

• I/F Stretch, stitch width 5

, completes the border. Embroider one row. Then turn the material and embroider back down the border in reverse.

Combinations with colored thread (only on select 1540)

An additional effect can be produced with different colored thread. Multi-colored thread was used for the middle border in this example. You can purchase it in a great variety of shades from your PFAFF dealer.

• Place appropriate stabilizer under the fabric.

• Mark the middle with tailor’s chalk.

• Begin with the stitch H Stretch, stitch width 5

. Embroider along the marked line. Then turn the fabric and embroider back down the border in reverse.

• Sew close to the ﬁ rst border with the stitch I/G Stretch, stitch width 2-4 mm.

• F/G Stretch, stitch width 3-4 mm completes the border.

Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques

Monograms

Whether working with stretch or woven fabric, with the help of the darning foot and the stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), stitch width 2.5-5

you can embroider initials of your own design.

Sewing this way without a set pattern does, however, require a little practice.

• Draw the initials onto the fabric with an invisible-ink marker.

• Drop the feed dog. Insert the darning foot and bring it into darning position (see page

37).

• Place stabilizer under the fabric.

• Hoop the fabric in an embroidery hoop and embroider using the zigzag stitch.

• Tie off the threads and remove the stabilizer.

Tip: By sewing quickly and moving the material slowly, you will achieve dense stitches.

When embroidering on terry-cloth, the monogram must ﬁ rst be sewn with a narrow zigzag stitch and then stitched again with a wider zigzag stitch. In this way the terry-cloth loops are completely covered.

Embroidering block letters is somewhat easier. Here the feed dog is not dropped which means that free sewing is no longer necessary. You can simply sew along the lines with stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), stitch width 2.5-5

• Place stabilizer under the fabric.

• Before sewing, draw the monogram onto the fabric.

• Sew along the lines you have sketched using the zigzag stitch.

Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques

Uneven embroidering

• Place stabilizer under the fabric.

• Set needle thread tension to “buttonhole”, select zigzag stitch G (1540), E (1530/

1520), set stitch length to “buttonhole” and select the center needle position

• Increase or decrease the width of the stitch using the width dial (27).

Note: If you selected the right or left needle position, the stitch width will only change in one direction.

Embroidering with a dense zigzag stitch/Tapering

Tapering is easy with your select sewing machine. By adjusting the width of this dense zigzag stitch you can create interesting embroidery.

Even embroidering

• Place stabilizer under the fabric.

• Set needle thread tension to “buttonhole”, select zigzag stitch G (1540), E (1530/

1520), set stitch length to “buttonhole” and select the center needle position.

• Turn the width dial (27) smoothly and consistently from 0 to 5

mm and back again to 0 while sewing at a constant speed through the procedure.

Note: If you selected the right or left needle position, the stitch width will only change in one direction.

Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques

Floral embroidery

For this ﬂ ower arrangement, only a dense zigzag stitch was used in combination with the variable stitch width and the various needle positions.

• Place stabilizer under the fabric.

• Draw the contures of a ﬂ ower motif with a self-erasing textile pen.

• Set needle thread tension to “buttonhole”, select zigzag stitch G (1540), E (1530/

1520), set stitch length to “buttonhole”.

• Flowers: Select center needle position

and embroider individual petals. Adjust the stitch width with the width dial (34) during sewing according to the contures of the ﬂ ower .

• Leaves: Select right needle position

and embroider half of the leaf. Vary the stitch width using the width dial (27). Turn the handwheel towards you after ﬁ nishing the ﬁ rst half of the leaf until the needle is positioned in the material.

• Turn the material 180 degrees and embroider the other half of the leaf

Embroidering corners

By changing the stitch width during sewing of dense zigzag stitches you can embroider corners with 45 degree angles.

• Set needle thread tension to “buttonhole”, zigzag stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), set stitch length to “buttonhole” and stitch width 5 mm.

• Select right needle position and embroider a straight line.

• Embroider corner: After the needle has penetrated the material to the right, reduce the stitch width using the width dial (27) by 0.5 mm to 4.5 mm. Sew a stitch.

• Reduce the width once again by 0.5 mm and sew a stitch. Continue in this manner until the stitch width is 0.5 mm.

• Turn the handwheel towards you until the needle penetrates the material. Turn the material 90 degrees and sew a stitch.

• Increase the width by 0.5 mm to 1.0 mm. Sew one stitch.

• Increase the width by 0.5 mm again and sew one stitch. Continue in this manner until the initial width is achieved. Now embroider a straight line.

If the corner is to continue in the opposite direction, use the outermost left needle position

Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques

Decorative buttonhole

This buttonhole is a beautiful alternative to the traditional buttonhole (see page 32-33). Since you determine the width of the buttonhole seam, the buttonhole can have a width of up to 10 mm.

• Sew two buttonhole seams about 1 mm apart using a dense zigzag stitch (stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), stitch width 3-5 mm). The needle thread tension is set to “buttonhole”.

• Select the right needle position and sew over both ends of the buttonhole seam with a triangle. To do this, turn the stitch width dial (27) during sewing constantly from 0 to 5

and back to 0. The top of the triangle should meet the middle of both buttonhole seams.

Appliqué

Appliqués are quickly made and always produce a beautiful fancy effect. By using different materials and patterns you can sew many different variations. You can make a perfect, densely stitched seam with the appliqué foot (special accessories), because it has a special cutout on the underside for the buttonhole seam. Use a fusible backing fabric to iron the appliqué onto the material, making it easier for you to appliqué.

• Insert the appliqué foot in the sewing machine.

• Transfer your drafted pattern to the face side, smooth side, of the fusible backing fabric. Remember that e.g. letters have to be drawn as a mirror image.

• Now iron the backing fabric onto the appplqué material. Cut the motif out and pull the paper off.

• Place and iron on the appliqué parts on the base material.

• Sew over a appliqué material edges with the dense zigzag, stitch G (1540), E (1530/

1520), stitch width 2-4 mm, stitch length “buttonhole”. The needle thread tension is in the “buttonhole” area. Make sure the needle stitches over the outer edge so that no fraying occurs later.

Tip: For appliqué pieces which are pointed at the ends, you can make the zigzag stitch narrower using the width dial (27) so that the ends are pointed.

Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques

Richelieu

This especially artistic form of eyelet and insert embroidery is easy to sew with your sewing machine.

• Using a magic marker, draw your motif onto the right side of the fabric.

• Then place two layers of water-soluble stabilizer underneath the fabric to be embroidered and hoop both the fabric and the stabilizer into an embroidery hoop.

• Insert decorative embroidery foot number 1.

• To lend more durability to the embroidery, sew all of the contours twice using the straight stitch (stitch length approx. 1 mm).

• Then carefully cut out the fabric 2 mm next to the contour from the areas which are to be hollow. The stabilizer must not move.

• Embroider the contours with a dense zigzag stitch.

• Finally, simply dissolve the stabilizer ﬂ eece in cold water and your one-of-a-kind design is ﬁ nished.

Eyelet embroidery

Traditional eyelet embroidery which previously had to be made laboriously by hand can now be made quite easily with the help of an eyelet plate (special accessory).

This is very effective on blouses, bed or table linen. Use utility stitches such as the zigzag stitch, blind stitch, or elastic stitch. .

For classic eyelet embroidery, use stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), with a stitch width 3-5

mm.

• Remove the presser foot. Set the presser bar lifter at the darning position (see page

37).

• Place the eyelet plate on the needle plate, making sure pin A ﬁ ts in the middle cutout of the needle plate. Then push the plate down at the front.

• Place the marked fabric taut in an embroidery hoop. Cut one or two of the fabric threads and push the fabric over the pin in the eyelet plate. The fabric must ﬁ t snugly around the pin.

• Draw up the bobbin thread and hold it for the ﬁ rst few stitches.

• Stitch around the cut with the selected stitch. It is important to turn the fabric slowly and evenly. The stitches should be very close to each other.

• Afterwards secure with straight stitch.

Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques

Patchwork quilt

Patchwork and quilting are traditional handicraft techniques which were originally used by North American pioneer women to make use of left-over fabric. Over the years it has developed into a creative hobby.

Traditionally patchwork was sewn by hand. Today your creative ideas can be realized in a much shorter time with your select sewing machine.

A patchwork quilt consists of three layers of fabric, two layers of fabric with a layer of batting sandwiched between. Many pieces of fabric are joined together in patterns to form the top layer of the quilt. This is tacked to a middle layer of polyester or cotton batting and a backing layer.

The quilt and patchwork foot (special accessory – see page 63) is particularly helpful for sewing patchwork and quilting. The distance of the needle to the outer edge of the foot is 1/4 inch (6 mm) and 1/8 inch (3 mm) to the inner edge.

And this is how it’s done:

• Cut the pieces necessary for your quilt top, making sure to include a seam allowance of 1/4 inch (6 mm).

• Sew the pieces together as required by the block chosen. These squares will then be sewn together and will form the top of the quilt.

• Baste the ﬁ nished top of the quilt onto the batting and the bottom quilt layer.

• Use your Pfaff select model to sew all layers together. Work from the inside of the quilt out. Use a straight stitch for long seams. Use stitches such as FG or L stretch (select 1540) to add a decorative touch.

Experiment with other stitches on a scrap of fabric. Contact your Pfaff dealer, library, or bookstore for more information on quilting.

Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques

Wale hemstitch seam

• As with the hand hemstitch seam the threads are pulled out to the desired width.

• Using stretch zigzag stitch, stitch width 2-3 mm, sew along both of the fabric edges. The needle must perforate the area of the pulled threads just next to the edges. This bundles the threads.

Hemstitch seam

The hemstitch seam is an embroidery technique and can be used to secure edges on table linen as well as for decoration on clothing. For hem stitching you will require a wing needle and natural ﬁ ber, woven fabric that you can easily pull single threads. Lightweight darning thread is particularly suitable. With the stretch zigzag stitch you can sew various hemstitching techniques such as the wale hemstitch seam, a hem sewn with the hemstitch and a hemstitch seam as an edge. Use the decorative stitch foot 1.

Hem edge sewn with hemstitch seam

• Iron the hem over twice and pull one or more threads out from above the hem.

• Using the stretch zigzag, stitch width 2-3 mm, sew the hem from the face side. The needle must perforate the hem on the right hand side and bundle the pulled threads on the lefthand side.

Hemstitching seam as edge

This edge is used for very ﬁ ne, think materials. It is particularly suitable for valances and rufﬂ es.

• Using the Stretch stitch (G/E), width 2-3 mm, sew at a presser foot’s width along the edge of the fabric.

• Using a small pair of scissors, trim off the excess fabric on the hemstitch edge.

Accessories and needles

Presser feet (normal accessories) 56-57

Special accessories table 58

Felling foot 59

Gathering foot 59

Cording foot 60

Bias-tape binder 61

Rufﬂ er 61

Cording foot 62

Appliqué foot 62

Fringe foot 63

Needle table 64-65

Accessories and needles

Presser feet (normal accessories)

0 Standard presser foot

Part No. 98-694 816-00 (pictured) (select 1540 and 1530)

Part No. 96-694-847-00 (select 1520)

1 Fancy-stitch foot (for top feed)

Part No. 98-694 814-00 (select 1540)

1 Clear view foot

(Fancy-stitch foot not suitable for top feed)

Part No. 98-694 864-01

3 Blind stitch and overlock foot

Part No. 98-694-890-00 (pictured) (select 1540 and 1530)

Part No. 98-694 845-00 (select 1520)

4 Zipper-and edge-stitching foot

Part No. 98-694 884-00 (pictured) (select 1540 and 1530)

Part No. 98-694 843-00 (select 1520)

Accessories and needles

1-3 Spool cap

1. Part No. 93-036 048-44

2. Part No. 93-035 050-44

3. Part No. 93-036 049-44

4 Brush

Part No. 93-847 979-91

5 Extra spool pin

Part No. 93-033 063-44

5 Buttonhole foot

Part No. 93-036 990-91

6 Darning foot

Part No. 93-035 960-91 (select 1540)

7 Hemmer

Part No. 98-694 818-00) (select 1540)

8 Edge guide

Part No. 98-802 422-00

6 Seam ripper

Part No.99-053-016-91

7 Felt pad

Part No. 93-033 064-05

8 Oil tube

Part No. 93-035 910-91

9 Bobbins

Part No. 93-040 970-45

456 8

Accessories and needles

Presser feet (special accessory) for special sewing work. They are available at an extra charge from your dealer

On the following pages you will ﬁ nd examples on some of the special accessory feet

Accessory Part No. Sewing work

Appliqué foot 93-042 941-91 For appliqué work

Open appliqué foot 93-036 931081

Bias tape binder 98-054 484-91 For binding edges with (remove foot holder) bias tape

Cording foot, 5 grooves 93-042 950-91 For cording work (twin needle with (needle size 80) needle spacing 1.6 to 2.0)

Cording foot, 7 grooves 93-042 953-91 (twin needle with needle spacing 1.6 to 2.0)

Cording tongue (2) 93-035 952-45

Fringe foot 93-042 943-91 For sewing loop embroidery

Straight-stitch foot with round hole 98-694 821-00 Caution! Only use straight stitch in center needle position!

Needle plate with round hole 98-694 822-00 For topstitching seams and sewing very light and soft materials (silk jersey etc)

Felling foot 4.5 mm 93-042 946-91 For lap-felled seams

Felling foot 6.5 mm 93-042 948-91

Gathering foot 93-036 998-91 For gathering valances

Multi-stitch gathering foot 98-999 650-00 For placing dense or loose (remove sewing holder pleats on valances

Cording foot 93-036 915-91 For cording

Eyelet plate (graphic) 6mm 93-036 947-45 For eyelet embroidery

Eyelet plate (graphic) 8 mm 93-036 948-45

Roll hemmer, 2 mm 98-694 873-00 For hemming edges

Hemmer, 4 mm (for top feed) 98-694 823-00 For hemming edges

Hemmer (not suitable for top feed) 98-694 818-00

Knit-edge foot 93-042 957-91 For sewing knitted fabrics

Darning foot 93-035 960-91 For darning damaged pieces

Teﬂ on foot 93-036 917-91 For sewing leather a. synth.

Decorative stitch foot 93-036 962-91 For embroidering leather a. synth

Compass guide 93-036 953-91 For circle-shaped embroidery

Fagotting guide 93-036 952-46 Foundation wear

Patchwork foot (without top feed) 93-036 925-91 Quilt and patchwork sewing

Patchwork foot (with top feed) 93-036 927-91

Cording decorative stitch foot 93-036 942-91 Sewing spaces between cor.

Braiding foot 93-036 936-91 For overstitching cords

7/9 hole foot 93-036 946-91 For sewing yarn and ribben

Free-form embroidery foot 93-936 963-91 For embroidery work

Finger guard 93-036 910-91 All types of sewing

Lamp changer 93-036 960-91

1540

1530

1520

1540

1530

1520

Accessories and needles

Felling foot

Flat felled seams are particularly strong and are commonly known as jeans seams. Seams on sportswear and children’s wear, blouses and shirts are more durable with this technique. You can make these seams particularly decorative by using a sewing thread of a contrasting color. The felling foot is available in two different widths.

• Attach the felling foot to the presser foot holder.

• Place the fabrics' wrong sides together.

• Overlap the raw edge of the lower fabric by about 3/8'' to 5/8'' (1-1.5 cm).

• Place this overlapping edge over the tongue of the felling foot. The fabric must be placed fully under the presser foot.

• Sew along the folded edge with a straight stitch.

• Separate the fabric and feed the protruding hem into the felling foot. The hem is turned over by the foot and is overstitched along the edge. Pull the two fabric layers taut during sewing.

Shirring foot

Beautiful gathering effects can be achieved quickly and easily with the shirring foot.

• Attach the shirring foot by hooking the rear bar of the foot into the rear groove of the foot holder. Push the foot upwards until it snaps into the front bar.

• Place the fabric to be gathered under the presser foot, and the fabric to remain ﬂ at on the top through the foot cut out. Make sure the fabrics are placed right sides together.

• Hold the top fabric slightly taut while sewing. The more you hold the top fabric the greater the gathering effect you will achieve.

• Be sure to guide the fabric edges evenly through the foot.

• Disengage the shirring foot by pushing it down at the front and remove it in the direction of the groove of the presser foot holder at the back.

Tip: Tighter gathers can be achieved by increasing the needle thread tension and the stitch length.

stitch

3-5

Felling

foot

stitch

3-5

Shirring

foot

1540

1530

1520

Accessories and needles

Pintuck foot

This classic heirloom sewing technique can be easily applied to many types of fabric such as cotton and lightlinens. Undergarments, children’s clothes and home decorating projects are given a nostalgic touch by pintucking.

• Attach the pintuck foot.

• Replace the sewing needle with a twin needle (e.g. 130/705 H-ZWI; 1.6 or 2.0 mm needle spacing; size 80).

• Thread the two needles (see page 11).

• Increase the bobbin thread tension by turning the adjusting screw of the bobbin case slightly to the right (see chapter on “Bobbin thread tension”). This will help to form well-deﬁ ned pintucks.

• Sew your ﬁ rst pintuck. When you start on the second pintuck, allow the ﬁ rst pintuck to run parallel in a groove in the foot. This will

produce evenly spaced pintucks.

Tip: If you would like to emphasize the pintuck effect, you can attach a cording tongue (optional accessory) on the front edge of the needle plate. The cording tongue pre-shapes the fabric during sewing and produces a moredeﬁ ned pintuck.

For thin materials use the pintuck foot with 7 grooves and the small cording tongue, for heavier materials use the pintuck foot with 5 grooves and the large cording tongue.

Inserting a gimp thread creates a similar optical effect by making the pintuck appear even more raised.

A cording tongue is not used when inserting a gimp thread in your pintucks.

• Remove the needle plate.

• Thread the gimp thread from below through the hole at the center front of the needle plate.

• Replace the needle plate. The notch between the needle plate and the sewing machine provides space for the gimp thread while sewing. Feed the gimp thread under the work support so that it does not become knotted during sewing.

• Gently pull the fabric taut while sewing the pintucks.

stitch

2,5

Shirring

foot

1540

1530

1520

1540

1530

1520

Accessories and needles

Rufﬂ er

With the rufﬂ er you can make closely or widely spaced pleats automatically while sewing. This is very useful for rufﬂ es, home decorating, etc.

The rufﬂ er can be used in three different ways:

1. Folding pleats in fabric.

2. Folding and securing pleats in fabric in one operation.

3. Folding and securing pleats in fabric, while attaching lace in one operation.

When you buy the rufﬂ er from your PFAFF dealer, full operating instructions are included.

Bias tape binder

Binding with bias tape is a very easy method of giving fabric edges a smooth and neat appearance. For this you need unfolded bias tape about 1'' (2.5 cm) wide.

• Remove the presser foot and holder. Attach the bias binder.

• Cut the beginning of the bias tape at an angle.

• Feed the tape into the scroll of the binder and pull out to the back.

• Adjust the binder and/or the needle position so that the needle pierces the fabric approximately 1/16'' (1-1.5 mm) from the folded edge of the bias tape.

• Stitch about 1'' (2.5 cm) along the bias tape.

• Insert the edge of the fabric to be bound between the bias tape edges into the slot of the binder. The bias tape will enclose the raw edge automatically during sewing.

Tip: You can obtain an additional decorative effect by using a zigzag stitch.

stitch

2,5

3-5

Bias tape

binder

stitch

3-5

Rufﬂ er

1540

1530

1520

1540

1530

1520

Accessories and needles

Cording foot

Cording is a technique in which pearl thread or a ﬁ ne cord is overstitched to produce a purl seam. With this you can obtain an effect similar to braiding.

• Attach the cording foot.

• Place the pearl thread in the foot so it leads through one of the grooves at the front and lies under the presser foot at the back.

• Overstitch the pearl thread with a narrow satin stitch. This produces what is known as the purl seam.

Tip: You can also obtain a remarkable effect by overstitching a medium pearl thread with a thread of a different color.

Appliqué foot

Appliqués are easily sewn and always produce a beautiful effect. By using different materials and patterns you can create countless new designs. You can make a perfect, densely stitched seam with the appliqué foot, which has a special cutout on its sole for the satin-stitch seam.

• Attach the appliqué foot.

• Transfer your drafted pattern to the paper side of a fusible, paper-backed webbing. Remember that any letters or numbers have to be drawn as mirror images.

• Iron the fusible webbing onto the appliqué material. Cut out your motif and peel the paper from the back of the appliqué.

• Position and press your appliqué pieces in place on your base fabric.

• Place a stabilizer under your work area.

• Sew over the edges of the appliqué material with a narrow satin stitch zigzag. Make sure that the stitch covers the outer edge so that no fraying occurs later.

stitch

0,35-1

Cording

foot

stitch

0,35-1

2-3

Appliqué

foot

1540

1530

1520

1540

1530

1520

Accessories and needles

Fringe foot

With this special foot for fringe embroidery you can produce fantastic effects in no time.

• Mark your desired pattern with a fabricmarking pen.

• Place a piece of stabilizer under the fabric.

• Attach the fringe foot.

• Embroider the motif row by row. For circles you must work from the outside in.

• When using heavier threads, you should select a slightly longer stitch length. Always sew a test seam ﬁ rst.

• When you have ﬁ nished, pull the work carefully from the machine by holding the last loops. If you pull too quickly, you will pull the end loops ﬂ at/tight.

• Knot the beginning and end threads on the reverse side.

1/4 inch Quilt and patchwork foot

A quilt consists of two layers of fabric with a layer of batting sandwiched between. Many geometric pieces of fabric are joined together in continually changing patterns to form the top layer of the quilt. This is tacked to a middle layer of polyester or cotton batting and a backing layer.

The 1/4 inch quilt and patchwork foot is particularly suitable for joining your pieces of fabric. The clearance between the needle and the outer edge of the foot is 1/4'' (6 mm) and between the needle and the inner edge of the foot 1/8'' (3 mm).

• Attach the 1/4 inch quilt and patchwork foot.

• Sew together your pieces of fabric using stitch G (1540)/E (1530, 1520). For a seam allowance of 1/4'' guide your fabric along the outer edge of the foot. For a seam allowance of 1/8'' guide your fabric along the inner edge of the foot.

stitch

0,35-1

2-3

Fringe

foot

stitch

0,25

4-5

Quilt &

Patch-

work

foot

Accessories and needles

Suitable for

Universal needle for synthetics

, ﬁ ne linen, chiffon, batiste, organdy, woolens, velvet, decorative seams and embroidery work

Coarse knitted fabrics, Latex, double-knit fabrics, hosiery, Quiana and Simplex

Stretch-fabric needle developed especially for Pfaff. Particularly suitable for delicate stretch and knitted fabrics

Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra, Simplex and Latex

Twill, work wear, heavy linen, blue jeans and light canvas

Leather, suede, calf and goatskin leathers

Imitation leather, plastic materials, plastic sheeting and oil cloth

Topstitched seams with buttonhole silk or No. 30/3 synthetic thread, metallic thread

Effective hemstitching on heavily dressed materials, organdy, glass cambric

Micro-ﬁ ber woven fabrics

Topstitched seams for quilting

Embroidery work

System & No Proﬁ le Point and eye 130/705 H Light ball point

Needle size: 60-130

130/705 H-SUK Medium ball point Needle size: 70-110

130/705 H-PS Medium ball point Needle size: 70-100

130/705 H-SKF Heavy ball point Needle size: 90-110

130/705 H-J Acute ball point Needle size: 90-110

130/705 H-LR Narrow twist point Needle size: (cuts right) 70-100

130/705 H-PCL Narrow twist point Needle size: (left twist groove) 80-110

130 N Light ball point Needle size: (long eye) 70-110

130/705 H-WING Hemstitching point Needle size: 100/120

130/705 H-M Acute round point Needle size: 60-80

130/705 H-Q Light ball point Needle size: 80/90

130/705 H-E Medium ball point Needle size: 80, 90

Needle chart

Using the correct needle guarantees better stitching of the fabric.

Fabric weight

light

Needle

60 70 75

Fabric weight

medium

Needle

80 90

Fabric weight

heavy

Needle

100 110 120 130

Accessories and needles

Decorative hemstitch effect embroidery. Wellﬁ nished woven fabric and ﬁ ne batiste are particularly suitable.

Classiﬁ cation Stitch Stitch Needle Suitable for length width spacing

130/705 H-ZWI 2,5 mm – 1,6 mm normal pintucks

size: 80 2,5 mm – 2,0 mm

130/705 H-ZWI

size: 80 2,5 mm – 2,5 mm wide pintucks size: 90 2,5 mm – 3,0 mm wide pintucks size: 100 3,0 mm – 4,0 mm extra wide pintucks

Decorative sewing with twin needles

Before sewing the desired stitches, check whether needles can penetrate easily, by turning the handwheel. In this wa

y, needle breakage is avoided as much as possible.

Zigzag sewing

Classiﬁ

cation Stitc

h Stitch Needle Suitable for

length width spacing

130/705 H-ZWI

size: 80 0,5-1,5 mm wide 1,6 mm decoration size: 80 0,5-1,5 mm narrow 2,0 mm decoration size: 80 0,5-1,5 mm narrow 2,5 mm decoration

Hemstitch / special twin needle

Classiﬁ cation Stitch Stitch Needle Suitable for length width spacing

130/705 H-ZWI-HO

size: 80 2,3-3,0 mm very narrow – size: 100 2,0-3,0 mm very narrow –

Accessories and needles

Maintenance and trouble-shooting

Changing the needle plate 68

Cleaning and oiling 68

Replacing the sewing lamp 69

Trouble-shooting 70

Maintenance and trouble-shooting

Changing the needle plate

Switch off the main switch

It is very important to clean and oil your sewing machine, because it will rewardyou with a longer service life. The more often you use the machine, the more care it needs.

Removal:

• Raise the sewing foot and remove the removable accessory tray.

• Push the point of a small screwdriver into the opening between needle plate and sewing machine. Twist it lightly to the right and the needle plate will snap half way out of its mounting. Now push the screwdriver into the left opening and take the needle plate out.

Replacing:

• Place the needle plate on ﬂ at at the back and push it down with both hands at the front until you hear it snap in place. Before you start sewing, check that the needle plate is lying ﬂ at.

Cleaning and oiling

Switch off the main switch

• Remove the needle plate and lower the feed dog.

• Clean the feed dog and hook area with the brush.

• Apply a drop of oil (every 15 to 20 hours of operation) to the hook. You can see where to apply the oil in the illustration and on the provided oil bottle.

Otherwise, the machine is maintenance free and must not be oiled.

Maintenance and trouble-shooting

Changing the sewing lamp

Switch off the main switch

• Disconnect the mains plug and the foot control plug from the machine.

• Take off the removable accessory tray (15).

The sewing lamp is located inside the left side of the sewing machine

Removal:

• Hold the sewing machine tightly.

• Push the lamp into its socket as far as it will go.

• At the same time, turn the lamp a half turn anti-clockwise and remove it.

Insertion:

• Insert the lamp in the diagonal socket and turn it so that both stops of the lamp engage.

• Now push the lamp fully into the socket and turn it clockwise so that it is held ﬁ rmly.

Note: The lamp changer (available as a special accessory) will make changing the lamp much easier.

Important! The maximum permissible wattage of the lamp with a plug-in socket is 15 watts!

Maintenance and trouble-shooting

Problem: Remedy: The machine skips stitches

The needle is not properly inserted. Push needle fully upwards, ﬂ at side facing the back.

The wrong needle is inserted Use a needle system 130/705 H. Needle is bent or blunt. Insert a new needle. Machine is not properly threaded. Check how machine is threaded. Needle is too small for thread. Use a larger needle.

Needle thread breaks

See reasons above. See above. Thread tension is too tight. Adjust thread tension. Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has Only use good threads.

become dry after too-long storage. Thread is too thick. Use needle with large eye (System 130 N).

Needle breaks off

Needle is not pushed fully in. Insert new needle and push fully in. Needle is bent Insert new needle. Needle is too thick or too thin See needle chart (page 64) Needle is bent, and has hit the needle Let the machine feed the fabric.

plate because you are pulling or Only guide the fabric lightly pushing the fabric.

The bobbin case is not properly installed. When you insert the bobbin case, push it fully into the stop.

Seam is sewn unevenly

The tension needs adjusting Check top and bottom tensions. Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard Only use perfect threads The bobbin thread is unevenly wound. Do not wind thread free-hand,

but run it on through the winding tension. Thread bunching at top or bottom Thread up correctly. Check needle and

side of fabric bobbin thread tensions

Machine does not feed or feeds irregularly

Sewing lint has collected between the Remove needle plate, remove lint feed dog teeth rows with brush.

Feed dog is lowered, slide A (see page 27) Push slide B (see page 27) to left. at right.

Machine is running with difﬁ culty

There are thread remnants in the hook race Remove the threads and apply one drop of oil to the hook.

Trouble-shooting

Important note:

Before you replace sewing feet or needles, you must switch off the main switch.

Do not start the threaded machine without fabric in it.

If you leave the machine, even for a short time, do not forget to switch off the main switch. This is important if children are nearby.

Pfaff select 1520, select 1530, select 1540 Instruction Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual