Oreck 8143 Service Manual
Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field
The Oreck Manufacturing Company
Compiled by Clark DeNoble
8143 Air Purifier Tune-Up & Service Guide
07/20/2005
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Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field
Table of Contents
Tune-Up Pages 3-13
Check Housing Aesthetics and Structural Integrity Page 3
If Equipped: Check that the Louver Functions Smoothly Page 3
Check Fan Speed Switch and Motor Function Pages 3-4
Check the Status Light Function Pages 4-6
If Equipped: Check the Ionizer Switch Function Page 6
Check For Unusual Noises Pages 6-10
Thorough Washing Instruction Pages 8-10
If Equipped: Check Scent Cartridge Holder Function Page 10
Check the Safety Interlock Switch Function Page 10
Check the Structural Integrity of the Cell Pages 10-11
Clean Pages 11-12
Finishing Up Pages 12-13
Other Troubleshooting & Service Pages 13-21
Status Light Dead Pages 6
Nothing Works Pages 13-14
Lights Work Motor Doesn’t Pages 14-15
Remove and Replace Motor Pages 15-19
Cell High Voltage Circuit Board Replacement Pages 9-20
Circuit Diagram (10/20/03) Page 21
If the conditions are dry
enough even a cell this dirty
may not set off the red status
LED continuously.
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Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field
Tune-Up
1. Check Housing Aesthetics and Structural Integrity
a. If you cannot see the blemish at arms length then it probably doesn’t matter
otherwise apply the following.
b. Hairline scratches:
i. Top & Sides-no more than 2, at ≤ ½”, on each surface.
ii. Rear & Bottom-no more than 3, at ≤ 1”, on each surface.
c. Gouges:
i. Top & Sides-none
ii. Rear & Bottom-no more than 2, at ≤ ¼”, on each surface.
d. Cracks:
i. No more than 2 total, at ≤ ¼”, per unit.
2. If Equipped: Check that the Louver Functions Smoothly
a. Operate the actuator back and forth.
b. Assure the louvers all move together at the same time.
3. Check the Fan Speed Switch and Motor Functions
a. Must function in all three positions.
b. Test whether the fan will bind in Silent. Unplug the unit and set the switch to silent.
Plug in the unit-the fan should start up.
c. If it doesn’t, first check for proper fan installation:
The fan grommet on the left is solid, has four
holding tabs, butts against the motor shaft’s
brass ring and must hold in this position to
provide clearance between the fan and fan
bushing grommet. This fan grommet must be
a tight fit to the motor shaft and free of
lubricants.
The grommet on the right is tiered, has four
holding tabs and envelops and holds onto the
motor shaft’s brass ring. As you can see if
this grommet is only butted against the brass
ring then the normal clearance between the
fan and fan bushing grommet shown in the
picture would be nonexistent. The reduced
clearance could cause screeching as the
d. Then check to see if the fan shaft and bearing are gummed up or worn:
Clean fan shaft and bearing. Apply oil to bearing assembly.
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Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field
FYI-There is a felt behind the bearing. When you apply oil to the bearing hole
allow time for it to soak into the felt.
Fan Bearing
Assembly-
Front
Bearing Assembly Bracket
4. Check Status OK Light Function
a. Changes from red to green when the unit is turned ON.
b. If it stays RED then remove the cell, activate the unit.
c. If the light turns green then the cell was the problem (Red Status Light Due to Cell-
Additional).
d. If the light stays red then either the circuit area is wet, poor electrical contact between
the cell and HV contacts or HV assembly is defective.
Felt Retainer
Oil Retention
Felt
You’ve washed, rinsed and dried the cell and the
Status light was still red.
1. Remove the cell and power up the unit. If the
Status light goes green then proceed to step
2.
Note: If the Status light stays red see 4c.
2. Carefully pry up and remove the front plate
support bar and return cell to unit.
Note: Be sure to remember how the bar was
positioned on the cell plates.
3. If the Status light turns green then skip to step 9.
4. If the Status light turns red go to step 5.
Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field
5. Carefully pry up and remove the rear plate
support bar and return cell to unit.
Note: Be sure to remember how the bar was
positioned on the cell plates.
6. If the Status light turns green then remove
the cell from the unit and reinstall the first
support bar.
7. If the Status light stays green then that
support bar is good.
8. If the Status light turns red then remove the
support bar and proceed to step 9.
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Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field
9. Take the bar/s and look for a carbon trail light
to dark brown or just discolored (circled).
This trail is often hard to see but it is
supplying an electrical path from a negative
plate to a positive plate (see arrows). This
electrical connection causes the Status light
to turn red.
10. Scrap off the carbon trail on one bar, reinstall
and test. If the Status light stays red then
remove the bar and scrap some more.
11. If the Status light turns green then go to work
on the other bar (if there is one) and repeat
step 10.
e. Some cells deeply burned/hidden carbon trails that cannot be scraped off or corona
wires that were stretched or broken. Replace the cell.
f. Red Light due to arcing or carbon trails at the cell contact board.
Picture 1 shows the arc in progress.
Picture 2 shows the carbon trail formed by the arc. The carbon trail makes later
failure much easier, scratch it off.
g. If with the cell in, the status light constantly changes from green to red and back:
Either the HV conductor is not making good contact with the cell. Bending it out
usually does the trick.
Dry the slot and cell contact board before buying a new HV circuit
board (See pictures on page 19)
or
h. There is arcing on the LED board due to post ionizer reaction with residue on the
housing. (See Thorough Washing Instruction).
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Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field
i. Status light function reversed:
Operates in reverse, when you turn the unit ON the Status light briefly shows green
then goes to red and when you turn the unit OFF the Status light fades from red to
green and goes out, then either the wiring is reversed or the LED board is defective.
j. Status light never comes on:
If the Status light doesn't light at all then either the LED board, transformer or HV
circuit board is defective (See Status Light Dead).
Status Light Dead
There may be a problem with the yellow step down transformer.
If the transformer passes this check then the problem is the LED board or the
whole LED HV circuit board assembly.
Select the 50 VAC scale on your Multimeter. Turn the unit ON.
Touch the meter leads to the two solder joints shown below. A good transformer will
put out 24VAC.
If you don’t see 24VAC, turn the unit OFF and scrape the solder joints to remove any
coating. Turn the unit ON and test again. If you still don’t measure 24VAC then the
transformer needs to be replaced
Important: If the transformer is bad the power to the cell will also
be OFF. Replace the bad transformer first and test before ordering
the LED or HV boards.
5. If Equipped: Check the Ionizer Switch Function
6. Check for Unusual Noises
a. Ticking
i. Unbalanced Fan-shaft tapping the brass bearing-). If you see a significant up
and down movement this may be the problem (replace the fan unless
twisted. (See Twisted Fan 6 a iv).
ii. Dry Felt/Bearing-no oil
iii. Cocked Bearing-straighten
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Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field
iv. Twisted Fan- Determine if the fan is twisted (the blades should be
horizontal). You can untwist the fan by gently turning the ends so the blades
straighten out (this has eliminated ticking
v. Bent Fan-some service fans get bowed from either shipping damage or
mishandling-replace the fan
vi. Dry Motor Ball Bearings
There are a couple of ways to determine if it's the motor bearing:
• Take a long shaft screwdriver, put the blade against the bearing
housing then put your ear against the handle and listen.
• Remove the fan and hear if the noise continues.
Indicators
• No noise (the bearing is packed (greased) well and probably on
a new unit).
• Some very sporadic non-rhythmic bearing ticking only heard
using the screwdriver (normal).
• Then there's the “shaking ball bearings in a cup” noise (bearing
is dry-this is probably the condition that gives you the noise of
concern).
• Finally, f it sounds like gravel then the bearings are already
damaged.
Although not recommended, if you choose to repack the bearings, use hightemperature grease, not automotive axle (stinky) grease.
b. Snapping behind the switch panel. Arcing at the LED board (may or may not cause
the Status light to flicker.
If the arcing stops when the ionizer is turned off then it is always due to
residue/moisture in the cell/fan portion of the housing including the ionizer needle
and bracket. This will require a thorough washing.
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