Motorola XTS3000, XTS5000 Batdude’s Guide

Batdude’s Guide

for the

XTS 3000 - XTS 5000

and Astro Digital Saber

3 September 2006

Revised 3 November 2006

As I sat down today to install a NTN8255 DES-OFB module into an XTS 3000 portable
radio, I thought some of you would appreciate an informal walkthrough of the tips to
disassemble the radio and get it back together again without any damage. I can’t count
how many times I’ve seen radios in the used market that have case damage due to
improper disassembly. The key to the entire process is this:

Without this tool, I can guarantee that you will either split the end of the case
plastic, as shown in the below picture, or gouge/destroy the protective o-ring.

This is an actual radio that I purchased at dayton….

Of course, I’ll show you this, just because I
think it’s indicative of how about 80% of the
people out there open up their radios:

Okay, you have finally ordered your handy-dandy white opener tool, Motorola part

number 6685833D01 (cost is about $4.00) and you’re ready to crack the case. I

can give you the rhetoric about ESD safety now – obviously what you are seeing

here is on the border of ESD-unsafe. However, I’m not sitting here rubbing my cat

while my feet are on the carpet either. This procedure should (of course) be

conducted at an ESD approved workbench while wearing a wrist strap. Note how

the hinge of the tool “captures” the frame.

MAKE SURE THE ANTENNA HAS BEEN REMOVED

BEFORE DOING THIS!

After you get the front shield separated from the chassis, you’ll have the radio
disassembled to this point (note the o-ring is intact and undamaged):

Gently wiggle the chassis free and lift

upward and away from the front shield

Separating the front shield flex from the chassis can be tricky, but you’ll get
the hang of it – you can use your thumb to pop the flex connector off:

The white part
here is the
connector, the
black is the
plastic flex
support – very
gently pry
downward on
the black
support and the
connector will
unmate with little
or no effort.

Notice the lip
at the bottom
of this retainer.
This is a
modification
that is required
to prevent
wear on the
flex. See the
next slide.

Two things in this picture – one is the connector type – this is a “B” series
connector (notice how wide it is with the male plug in the center). The second
item is the green universal connector plug retainer.

Universal Connector Retainer

Old style on the left, new on the

right. Motorola kit 4205582Z07 was a

retrofit for the old style. You will have to

call parts ID as this doesn’t appear to be

a valid part number anymore…

A Series vs. B Series Housings

“A” Series radios (I.e. H09RDH9PW7AN) use a different controller

board (NCN6128) that has a different plug on it for connecting the

front housing. This is CRUCIAL when ordering replacement parts

for your radio! In the below picture, the “B” series is on the LEFT.

Ok, back on track….

In the below picture, you see the radio with the front shield completely removed.

LCD Flex retainer bracket
– has two snaps that must
be pried upward to remove

One of the most common assembly errors is
right here. This brown “finger” is part of the flex
for the LCD. There is a slot in the retainer to
allow this finger to stick out and be compressed
against the frame during re-assembly.

There is a

cutout in

the

Keypad

shield that

is for the

rubber “tit”

on the
LCD flex –
make sure

it’s seated

right!

These are the three mounting posts for the LCD protector (black rubber

piece). Make sure the red plastic is on there as it helps retain the LCD

securely in place.

I normally just use the

plastic special tool for

this, but a small flat

blade screwdriver works

just as well. Note the

“finger” of the LCD flex

sticking out.

This is the keypad flex retainer,
again – a small flat blade works well
here too.

There are four small retainers that must be released to remove the keypad

Flex assembly. Once removed you can remove the entire keypad flex

assembly and set it aside. Note the flex retainer is completely released

from the chassis.

There is a small cutout that forms a notch that holds the

NCN6167 controller board in place. If you gently lift the

controller board up from the BOTTOM of the radio, it will slip

right out of the radio. Ensure the top of the controller board

engages this retainer notch during reassembly!

Nice view of the

NCN6167

controller board

and LCD assembly

after partial

removal…..oh by

the way… that
controller board is
about $400… and

the LCD is about

$80… so BE

CAREFUL!

(FYI, this board

stores your HOST

firmware).

Now that the NCN6167 Controller board has been removed, this is what you’ll see:

These two header connectors route signals

between the controller board, the vocoder

and the RF board. INGENIOUS! They are

keyed to prevent installing them the wrong

way – but you need to watch reassembly

to ensure that they haven’t moved.

This is your

VOCODER. It’s not a

VOCON – It’s a

VOCODER. This is

where your DSP

firmware is stored.

Note that it’s installed

upside down.

Note the keying lugs on these

connectors – they’re supposed to

be “sailor proof” – be sure you

put them in right!

The NTN8250 VOCODER

Be careful – don’t fry it or

drop it – current

replacement cost is

around $400.00

Removing the RF Shield… not required for my project… but shown to you!

There is one retainer clip on the left
side that must be removed….this is
the same style clip as the keypad….

And two detents need to be “popped” on
the right hand side to remove the RF
shield…..

There are two small detents that must be disengaged to remove
the RF board shield. Note the blue RF cable – be VERY careful
with this cable – it’s two ended – and connects the RF board to the
antenna connector – it’s VERY EASILY damaged.

You may have to use your small flat

blade screwdriver to GENTLY pry the

RF board shield free… BE CAREFUL!

RF Shield removed…..

The RF board is removed by lifting it from the LEFT side (long silver
can) and tilting it upward to free the two retainers from their detents in
the chassis (yellow circles)… if you are removing the RF board
completely, use a small pair of hemostats or fine needlenose pliers to
remove the RF cable from it’s socket on the RF board…..

Ok.. What I was really here for…

This is a side view of the secure module and it’s mounting tray. Note
the gap between the secure module and the retainer – THIS IS NOT
INSTALLED CORRECTLY and must be fixed before installation….

Lay the secure
module in the
retainer tray as
shown. There are
notches in this tray
that will retain the
board. Lay it flat
as shown and then
slide it to the left –
and it will be under
the notches. DO
NOT FORCE IT –
and DO NOT bend
the metal retainer!

Notice how the secure board lays flat in the mounting tray – and note the

bend in the tray (the “V” shape) – this is the correct layout!

There are two detents on the LEFT

HAND SIDE that must be engaged

FIRST. Once they have snapped

into place, use your screwdriver to

GENTLY press down on the right

side of the RETAINER (NOT THE

BOARD!) and it will snap into place.

Once this is done, check your 2

interconnect header connectors to

make sure they are still oriented

correctly…..

One properly installed secure

module… note that the metal

secure module retainer board is

snug against the chassis….

When you re-install the Controller board (noting the “notch” at the top
of the frame….) you can gently press down on the yellow caps on top
of the board to mate the secure module to the controller board.

The Idiot Check

Once you have the controller board mated to the secure module and

properly reseated into the chassis, check to make sure you can see

the posts on the header connectors sticking through their

corresponding holes in the board. This is your last chance before

final assembly to correct an incorrectly seated header connector!

Install the keypad flex
and shield assembly…
there are four
retainers that must
engage the chasiss….

Then engage the Keypad flex
retainer….

The LCD Display

The XTS 3000 LCD has a very serious weak link – the flex. You must be
extremely careful during installation and removal or you will tear it – and ruin
the assembly. Best method is to lay it face down and align the flex / flex
retainer and then snap into place, then fold the display over and mate it to
the 3 red-tipped binding posts. Ensure the protrusion on the bottom of the
LCD protective rubber correctly mates with the cutout on the keypad shield.

THEN CLEAN YOUR FINGERPRINTS OFF THE LCD!! (pet peeve, sorry)

LOOK MOM! My o-ring isn’t torn up!

Note the rubber tit at the bottom of the

LCD is engaged in the keypad flex shield

and the “finger” is sticking out from the

display flex….

Insert the chassis into the top of the front shield…. The

two upper metal tabs on the casting will slide UNDER

the yellow lip below the MOTOROLA logo…..gently

keep pushing the casting upwards into the front

shield….

Make sure the o-ring is properly

seated along the left and right of the

frame and you’ll end up with the

picture on the left here…. Ready for

the final “seat” into the case…

One trick that I’ve used

is to turn the tool

around BACKWARDS

and very gently pry the

case outward while

simultaneously pushing

down on the radio

chassis…. This makes

the o-ring seat properly

EVERY TIME!

Note that the o-ring is NOT visible from the outside and that there is

ZERO DAMAGE to the bottom of the front shield…. Done RIGHT!

And the final result…..

Those Damn Knobs

The frequency knob inserts on the 3000 and 5000 are *NOT* the same, neither is the

sticker that goes on the insert! Alas, you use the same technique to remove and install

them. Here are some pictures that can help you with this task. I discourage you from

reusing the inserts as they are very easily damaged… so easy that the first “test” I do

when I examine a radio for purchase is to gently pull upwards on the channel select

(frequency) knob to see if it’s been swapped… you’d be amazed how many come off in

your hands….The white plastic piece is commonly referred to as an “insert”…the manual

calls it an “insert retainer”. The volume insert is the same for both the 3000 and 5000.

Gently pry out the “fingers” from the insert and pry it off… takes a few tries….

Insert differences

• XTS 3000

– Channel select insert

• P/N 4305373Z01

– Channel escutcheon

• P/N 1305374Z01

– Volume insert

• P/N 4305372Z01

• XTS 5000

– Channel select Insert

• P/N 4305373Z02

– Channel escutcheon

• P/N 1505374Z03

– Volume insert

• P/N 4305372Z01

Note: Same part number

Ok… some on the 5000

The XTS 5000 is VERY similar, yet very different from the XTS 3000 series
radios. It’s obvious from the internals that they learned some valuable
lessons from the design of the 3000. Gone are the metal retainers that
secure the LCD and keypad flex…. They’ve been replaced with high
density connectors that are much easier to install and remove. One of the
most glaring differences between the two radios is that the XTS 5000 only
uses two circuit boards: the VOCON and the RF board. Gone is the
XTS3000 vocoder board – it’s been completely incorporated into the
VOCON. (VOcoder CONtroller = VOCON)

The removal of the front shield on the XTS 5000 is exactly the same as the
XTS 3000. The special tool is the previously covered 6685833D01. The
front shield flex plug from the housing to the VOCON is a little smaller on
the 5000, but the technique of front shield removal is the same.

LCD flex plug

Front Shield

flex plug

Keypad
flex plug

Nice shot of the LCD connector. The rubber locator pad surrounding the

LCD is only secured on two posts on the 5000 – the 3000 uses three

posts…

This is the “old style” NTN4563 VOCON. It has been replaced with the

NNTN4717 VOCON. It uses a different processor (RAM22 in self test) than

the NNTN4717 (BRAVO in self test) but is otherwise indifferent from the

newer NNTN4717. Both boards have 8 megs of RAM and any differences

are completely transparent to the user.

NNTN5032 XTS 5000

Universal Cryptographic

Module (UCM)

Note that the XTS 5000 only uses a single compression connector….

There are four clips on the

5000 RF board shield, two on

each side – similar to the 3000.

Two retainer tabs at the top of

the RF shield, just like the 3000

This is a unique feature of the 5000 – there is a rubber pad on top of the RF
board in between the actual circuit board and the RF shield. Note here the view
of the keying lugs for the compression connector. The RF board is retained in a

similar manner as the 3000, you have to lift the left side up to clear the tabs on

the right hand side. This pad is band specific due to variations in the RF board

components… there are yellow, green and orange ones depending on the RF

band of the board. When reinstalling the RF shield, you must ensure the board

cutouts clear the notch provided for the compression connector – and that they

don’t ‘pinch’ this rubber mat.

This is the NTN8910 VHF XTS 5000 RF board. Note the same little blue cable

connects the RF board to the RF connector on the chassis… BE CAREFUL!

This is the backside of the NTN4563 VOCON – showing the secure module

and it’s mating socket on the rear of the board.

This is the best view I

could get of the tab /

notch at the top of the

VOCON. This is very

similar to the XTS 3000

in that it serves to

secure the top of the

VOCON to the chassis.

This is my

technique for

installing the

front shield onto

the chasis. The

rubber pad on

the back of the

housing

connector flex is

sitting at the

bottom of my

thumb. When

you grab the

chassis with your

other hand, it

makes it a cinch

to mate the

connector.

The remainder of the reassembly is the same as the 3000 – the same

methods can be applied and you’ll enjoy a nice looking, undamaged case. In

the next few slides, I’ll explain some of the intricacies of the XTS 5000.

VOCODER and Display Compatibility Chart

VHF UHF R1 UHF R2 700/800 Display

Part #

NTN4563 X
NTN4819 X
NTN9564
NNTN4717 X X X

The NNTN4717 is the newest VOCON and is usable on ANY band
The NTN9564 is unique in that it uses a different display – the “C01”

– it will NOT function with anything other than a “C01” display.

X
X

7285726C02

7285726C03

7285726C01

7285726C02 (VHF/800)

7285726C03 (UHF)

The Astro Digital Saber

I first held one of these radios in the spring of 1996, over 10 years ago.
What a wonder of modern technology! Of course, at the time, no one
outside Motorola really knew the plans for the platform – and VSELP ruled
the day. Holding a radio with Host firmware of AP_R1.00.00 was pretty
darn cool. The first generation mixed mode portable from Motorola
(analog/VSELP), it was quite the brick to carry around, but between the
display (14 characters!) and the channel capacity (255!) – not to mention
the advent of the “S-record” and “LA_ROVER”…. What a radio!

Just think of the pride walking around the hamfest with an AS3 on your
belt! Nothing but geek envy from those Systems Saber guys!

I’ll have to be honest. I don’t like taking Astro Sabers apart. Most tend to
have brittle flexes on the display board and side of the frame (PTT/Monitor
buttons), so please proceed at your own risk. You’ll note in the slides the
common errors I’ve seen from radios I’ve encountered in the field.

The Astro Digital Saber, Model 3, VHF with the new HNN9033 Impres battery

Tools required: A small phillips and a split blade screwdriver

Step 1: Remove the
accessory/programming port cover…

Step 2: Loosen the two slotted
screws at the bottom… no need to
remove the belt clip….

Screw the antenna onto the radio and gently pull it out of the housing….

Contrary to popular belief, you do
NOT need to pry on the two retainer
tabs at the bottom of the front
shield…. Just put your thumb where
the yellow “X” is in the picture and
push forward towards the top of the
radio (horizontally) and the two
plastic tabs will release…. This is
why most second hand radios have
broken plastic retainers… from guys
who think you have to pry those two
tabs off with a screwdriver…. Note
that broken tabs do not really cause
any problems – the radio is held

Plastic retainers

together by compression anyway.

There are three connectors that must be removed from the radio to take it
apart. The lower connector in this picture is for the side PTT flex. The
upper two connectors are for the speaker and microphone (left connector)
and the display/keypad (right connector)

Front shield separated from the chassis

RF board flex removal, gently pry upwards and it pops right off.

Now the fun part. You have to remove four little phillips screws to get the

vocon out of the chassis. These are very easy to strip the screwheads

out of – so please be careful and use a proper fitting screwdriver…. They

are also easily lost – so put them in a plastic cup! It’s very common to

find used radios missing one or two of these screws!

Once you get the screws out of the vocon carrier, this is what you are

left with. A front cover, a rear cover and the vocon itself.

Pay attention how the two halves of the vocon shield fit together.

The biggest Achilles heel of the Astro Saber – the damn interconnect.

Vocon removed, RF board shield still in place.

RF board is held into place with four notches built into the shield. Pry

upwards on these to unseat them (2 on each side) and the RF shield

can be removed.

Sorry for the crappy pic guys – but this is the Astro Saber RF board

and secure module. The secure module is retained by metal fingers in

the chassis – it snaps into place securely… sometimes you’ll see these

second hand either without the secure module metal “can” – or not

snapped into place correctly.

Notice something funny about this header connector?

Laugh now young Jedi. I actually bought a “DOA” Astro Saber on ebay

with it’s header connector installed this way… guess what? When I

fixed the header orientation… it worked JUST FINE! Ha!

The radio can now be reassembled using the reverse of the

disassembly instructions. Pay close attention to that header

connector – it’s easy to bend the pins on it when it mates with the

vocon. Make sure all four of the small vocon retainer screws are

installed correctly. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE CONTROL

FLEXES. Most of these radios are around 6-8 years old now – bend

one of those flexes the wrong direction and you will find yourself on
MOL trying to order new parts for your toy…. And just wait until you

see how much parts cost for one of these babies!

(sucks to be you….)

Anyway, this concludes the Astro portable series of tips and tricks –

I’m sure some sharp guy out there will want something added… feel

free to PM me on batlabs and I’ll edit/fix as required.

Your comments always appreciated… and don’t

forget to visit…..

http://batboard.batlabs.com