HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
1-2
WHERE TOBEGIN l-2
AVOIDINGTROUBLE 1-2
MAINTENANCEORREPAIR? 1-2
AVOIDINGTHEMOSTCOMMONMISTAKES l-2
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1-2
SPECIALTOOLS l-4
YOUR
VEHICLE SAFELY 1-4
DON'TS l-6
FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND
CONVERSIONS l-6
BOLTS,NUTSANDOTHERTHREADED
RETAINERS 1-6
TORQUE l-7
TORQUEWRENCHES l-7
TORQUEANGLEMETERS 1-9
STANDARDANDMETRIC MEASUREMENTS l-9
SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION l-10
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER l-10
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER I-10
TRANSAXLEIDENTIFICATION I-10
DRlVEAXLE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-10
TRANSFERCASE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-10
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP l-14
AIRCLEANER(ELEMENT) 1-14
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 1-14
FUELFILTER 1-15
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION l-15
PCVVALVE l-15
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION l-15
EVAPORATIVECANISTER l-16
SERVICING 1-16
BATTERY 1-16
PRECAUTIONS I-16
GENERALMAINTENANCE 1-16
BEL
BATTERYFLUID 1-16
CABLES I-17
CHARGING I-18
REPLACEMENT 1-18
TS 1-18
INSPECTiON l-18
ADJUSTMENT 1-18
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 1-18
TIMINGBELTS l-20
INSPECTION l-20
HOSES I-20
INSPECTION l-20
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
CV-BOOTS 1-21
INSPECTION l-21
SPARKPLUGS l-22
SPARKPLUGHEATRANGE
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
INSPECTION &GAPPING 1.
SPARKPLUG WIRES 1-24
TESTING 1-24
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
DISTRIBUTORCAPANDROTOR
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
INSPECTION 1-25
IGNITIONTIMING 1-25
. GENERALINFORAMTION l-
lNSPECTlON&ADJUSTMENl
VALVE LASH l-27
ADJUSTMENT l-27
IDLESPEED 1-28
1-21
l-22
l-22
-23
1-24
l-25
l-25
.25
1-26
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM 1-28
SYSTEMSERVlCEiiREPAlR l-28
PREVENTIVEMAINTENANCE 1-28
SYSTEM INSPECTION l-29
WINDSHIELD WIPERS l-29
ELEMENT(REFILL)CARE&
REPLACEMENT l-29
TIRESANDWHEELS l-30
TIRE ROTATION I-30
TIRE DESIGN 1-31
TIRESTORAGE l-31
INFLATION &INSPECTION l-31
CARE OFSPECIALWHEELS l-32
OPERATION INFOREIGNCOUNTRIES
l-33
ENGINE l-33
OILLEVELCHECK 1-33
OIL& FILTER CHANGE l-34
MANUALTRANSAXLE l-35
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-35
LEVELCHECK l-35
DRAIN&REFILL l-36
AUTOMATICTRANSAXLE l-36
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-36
LEVELCHECK 1-36
DRAIN&REFILL l-36
PAN & FILTERSERVICE 1-36
TRANSFERCASE(AWDGAlANT ONLY) l-38
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-38
LEVELCHECK l-38
DRAIN&REFILL l-38
REARDRlVEAXLE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-38
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-38
LEVELCHECK l-38
DRAIN&REFILL l-38
COOLINGSYSTEM l-39
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-39
iM-41
FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS 1-33
FLUID DISPOSAL 1-33
FlJELANDENGlNEOILRECOMMENDATlONS
ENGINE OIL l-33
FUEL l-33
.
1-2 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Chitton’s Total Car Care manual for the 199M10
Mitsubishi Mirage, Galant and Diamante is intended
to help you learn more about the inner workings of
your vehicle while saving you money on its upkeep
and operation.
The beginning of the book will likely be referred to
the most, since that is where you will find information
for maintenance and tune-up. The other sections deal
with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Operating systems from engine through brakes are covered to the extent that the average do-it-yourselfer becomes mechanically involved. This book will not
explain such things as rebuilding a differential for the
simple reason that the expertise required and the investment in special tools make this task uneconomical. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to
help you change your own brake pads and shoes, replace spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that
can save you money, give you personal satisfaction
and help you avoid expensive problems.
A secondary purpose of this book is a reference for
owners who want to understand their vehicle and/or
their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are
required.
Before removing any bolts, read through the entire
procedure. This will give you the overall view of what
tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing
more frustrating than having to walk to the bus stop
on Monday morning because you were short one bolt
on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead.
Each operation should be approached logically and
all procedures thoroughly understood before attempting any work.
All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, removal and installation procedures, and in some cases,
repair or overhaul procedures. When repair is not considered practical, we tell you how to remove the part
and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement.
In this way, you at least save labor costs. “Backyard”
repair of some components is just not practical.
Many procedures in this book require you to “label
and disconnect. . ” a group of lines, hoses or wires.
Don’t be lulled into thinking you can remember where
everything goes-you won’t. If you hook up vacuum
or fuel lines incorrectly, the vehicle may run poorly, if
at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you
may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.
You don’t need to know the official or engineering
name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape
on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to
assign your own label such as the letter A or a short
name. As long as you remember your own code, the
lines can be reconnected by matching similar letters
or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in
gasolrne or other fluids; if a component is to be
washed or cleaned, use another method of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe
can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove
any tape or paper labels after assembly.
It’s necessary to mention the difference between
maintenance and repair Maintenance includes routine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of
parts which show signs of normal wear Maintenance
compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies
that something has broken or is not working. A need
for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Example, draining and refilling the automatic transaxle
fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufacturer at specific mileage intervals. Failure to do this
can shorten the life of the transmission/transaxle, requiring very expensive repairs. While no maintenance
program can prevent items from breaking or wearing
out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS
CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.
Two basic mechanrc’s rules should be mentioned
here. First, whenever the left side of the vehicle or engine is referred to, it is meant to specify the drivers
side. Conversely, the right side of the vehicle means
the passengers side. Second, screws and bolts are
removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened
by turning clockwrse unless specifically noted.
Safety is always the most important rule. Constantly be aware of the dangers involved in working
on an automobile and take the proper precautions.
See the informatron in this section regarding SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY and the SAFETY
NOTICE on the acknowledgment page.
Pay attention to the instructions provided. There
are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:
1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or
adjustment. When taking something apart or putting
it together, performing steps in the wrong order usually just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break
something. Read the entire procedure before begin-
ning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in
which the instructions say you should, even if you
can’t immedrately see a reason for it. When you’re
taking apart something that is very intricate, you
might want to draw a picture of how it looks when as-
sembled at one point in order to make sure you get
everything back in its proper position. We will supply
exploded views whenever possible. When making
adjustments, perform them in the proper order. One
adjustment possibly will affect another.
2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is
more common for overtorquing to cause damage,
undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose
causing serious damage. Especially when dealing
with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifications and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a
torque figure is not available, remember that if you
are using the right tool to perform the job, you will
probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener
tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight
that the tension you put on the wrench will be multiplied many times in actual force on what you are
tightening. A good example of how critical torque is
can be seen in the case of spark plug installation, es-
pecially where you are putting the plug into an aluminum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to
crush the gasket, causing leakage of combustion
gases and consequent overheating of the plug and
engine parts. Too much torque can damage the
threads or distort the plug, changing the spark gap.
There are many commercial products available for
ensuring that fasteners won’t come loose, even if they
are not torqued just right (a very common brand is
Loctite? If you’re worried
about
getting something
together tight enough to hold, but loose enough to
avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of
these products might offer substantial insurance. Be-
fore choosing a threadlocking compound, read the
label on the package and make sure the product is
compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved.
3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such
as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong
angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to
occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubricate fasteners, then to start threading the bolt, spark
plug, etc. with your fingers If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and start over again at a different angle until it can be inserted and turned several
times without much effort. Keep in mind that many
parts, especially spark plugs, have tapered threads,
so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part
you’re threading to the proper angle. Don’t put a
wrench on the part until its been tightened a couple
of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resistance, and the part has not seated fully, don’t force it.
Pull it back out to make sure it’s clean and threading
properly.
Be sure to take your time and be patient, and always plan ahead. Allow yourself ample time to perform repairs and maintenance You may find maintaining your car a satisfying and enjoyable
experience.
b See Figures 1 thru 15
Naturally, without the proper tools and equipment
it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It
would also be virtually impossible
to
catalog every
tool that you would need to perform all of the operations in this book. Of course, It would be unwise for
the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of
tools on the theory that he/she may need one or more
of them at some time,
The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering savings will
be
far outweighed by frustration and
a good quality set of those tools that are used most mangled knuckles.
frequently Don’t be misled by the low cost of bargain Begin accumulating those tools that are used most
tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better frequently: those associated with routine maintenance
quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and and tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of
fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to their less screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the followexpensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can ing tools:
tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying
l
Wrenches/sockets and combination open
to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your monetary end/box end wrenches in sizes from %-% in. or
GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-3
3-19mm, as well as a % in. or ~/a in. spark plug
careful when using them, as they can change
socket (depending on plug type).
the amount of torque applied to the socket.
-if possible, buy various length socket drive
l
Jackstands for support.
extensions. Universal-joint
and
wobble ex-
l
Oil filter wrench.
tensions can be extremely useful, but be
l
Spout or funnel for pouring fluids.
l
Grease gun for chassis lubrication (unless
your vehicle is not equipped with any grease fittings-for details, please refer to information on Fluids and Lubricants, later in this section).
l
Hydrometer for checking the battery (unless
equiooed with a sealed, maintenance-free batten/).
In addition to the above items there are several
O’ A container for draining oil and other fluids.
l
Rags for wiping up the inevitable mess.
pi
1
others that are not absolutely necessary, but handy to
have around. These include Oil Dry@ (or an equivalent oil absorbent gravel-such as cat litter)
and
the
usual SUDDIV of lubricants. antifreeze and fluids. although the.& can be purchased as needed. This is a
basic list for routine maintenance, but only your personal needs and desire can accurately determine your
Fig. 1 Ail but the most basic procedures
After performing a few projects on the vehicle,
you’ll be amazed at the other tools and non-tools on
lWSl2U2
Fig, 3 A hydraulic floor jack and a set of
jackstands are essential for lifting and sup
porting the vehicle
tm1204
Fig. 5 Various drivers, chisels and ptybars
are great tools to have in your toolbox
Fig. 7 Although not always necessary, using specialized brake tools will save time
Fig. 11 inductive type timing light \
I-4 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 12 A screw-in type compression gauge-
Fig. 13 A vacuum/pressure tester is neces-
is recommended for compression testing
sary for many testing procedures
Fig. 14 Most modern automotive multime-
ters incorporate many helpful features
your workbench. Some useful household items are: a
large turkey baster or siphon, empty coffee cans and
ice trays (to store parts), ball of twine, electrical tape
for wiring, small rolls of colored tape for tagging lines
or hoses, markers and pens, a note pad, golf tees (for
plugging vacuum lines), metal coat hangers or a roll
of mechanic’s wire (to hold things out of the way),
dental pick or similar long, pointed probe, a strong
magnet, and a small mirror (to see into recesses and
under manifolds).
A more advanced set of tools, suitable for tune-up
work, can be drawn up easily. While the tools are
lmvl
Fig. 15 Proper information is vital, so at
ways have a Chiiton Total Car Care manua
handy
l
Feeler aauoes for valve adiustment
* Timing-light.
The choice of a timing fight should be made
carefully. A light which works on the DC current
supplied by the vehicle’s battery is the best choice;
it should have a xenon tube for brightness. On any
vehicle with an electronic ignition system, a timing
light with an inductive pickup that clamps around
the No. 1 spark plug cable is preferred.
In addition to these basic tools, there are several
other tools and gauges you may find useful. These
include:
l
Compression gauge. The screw-in type is
slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a
fauliy reading due to escaping pressure.
l
Manifold vacuum gauge.
l
12V test light.
l
A combination volt/ohmmeter
l
induction Ammeter. This is used for determining whether or not there is current in a wire. These
are handy for use if a wire is broken somewhere in a
wiring harness.
As a final note, vou will orobablv find a torque
wrench necessary for all but the most basic work.
The beam type models are perfectly adequate, although the newer click types (breakaway) are easier
to use. The click type torque wrenches tend to be
more expensive. Also keep in mind that all types of
torque wrenches should be periodically checked
and/or recalibrated. You will have to decide for yourself which better fits your pocketbook, and purpose.
ilightly more sophisticated, they need not be outrafeously expensive. There are several inexpensive
achldwell meters on the market that are every bit as
Toad for the average mechanic as a professional
nodel. Just be sure that it goes to a least 1200-1500
pm on the tach scale and that it works on 4,6 and 8:ylinder engines. The key to these purchases is to
nake them with an eye towards adaptability and wide
ange. A basic list of tune-up tools could include:
l
Tach/dwell meter.
l
Spark plug wrench and gapping tool.
Normally, the use of special factory tools is
avoided for repair procedures, since these are not
readily available for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
When it is possible to perform the job with more
commonly available tools, it will be pointed out, but
occasionally, a special tool was designed to perform
a specific function and should be used. Before substituting another tool, you should be convinced that
neither your safety nor the performance of the vehicle
will be compromised.
Special tools can usually be purchased from an
automotive parts store or from your dealer. In some
cases special tools may be available directly from the
tool manufacturer.
p See Figures 16, 17, 16, and 19
It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the haz-
ards involved with automotive maintenance and ser-
vice, but care and common sense will prevent most
accidents.
The rules of safety for mechanics range from “don’t
smoke around gasoline,” to “use the proper tool(s) for
the job.” The trick to avoiding injuries is to develop
safe work habits and to take every possible precaution.
Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit
l
handy.
Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cut-
l
ting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if you have
20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vision, wear safety goggles over your regular glasses.
l
Do shield your eyes whenever you work around
the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric acid. In case of
contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with water
or a mixture of water and baking soda, then seek immediate medical attention.
l
Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any undervehicle service. Jacks are for raising vehicles;
jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays
raised until you want it to come down. Whenever the
vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the
ground and set the parking brake.
l
Do use adequate ventilation when working
with any chemicals or hazardous materials, Like carbon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from
some brake lining wear can be hazardous in sufficient quantities.
l
Do disconnect the negative battery cable when
working on the electrical system. The secondary ig-
nition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLTAGE. In some cases it can even exceed 50,000 volts.
l
Do follow manufacturer’s directions whenever
working with potentially hazardous materials. Most
chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken inter-
nally.
l
Do properly maintain your tools. Loose ham-
merheads, mushroomed punches and chisels, frayed
or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively
worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open end),
cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight
sockets can cause accidents.
* Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy
wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the bolt and
often harming your knuckles in the process.
l
Do use the proper size and type of tool for the
job at hand. Do select a wrench or socket that fits the
nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit straight,
not cocked.
1-6 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 16 Screwdrivers should be kept in good
:ondition to prevent injury or damage which
:ould result it the blade slips from the screw
0
0
PP
tccs1022
Fig. 16 Using the correct size wrench will
help prevent the possibility of rounding off
a nut
7
lwo.WIRE CouDuClOR
TMREE-WIRE CONO”CTOI
MIRD WIRE GROUNDING GROUNDING TNRU
THE CASE A CmxlIT
.
i$Y$$pQ
p-+
TNHREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR
THREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR
ONE WIRE TO 4 GROUND
GROUNOlNG TMRU
AN ADAPTER PLUG
tccm21
Fig. 17 Power tools should always be properly grounded
Fig. 19 NEVER work under a vehicle unless it
is supported using safety stands (jackstands)
l
Do, when possible, pull on a wrench handle
l
Do set the parking brake and block the drive
rather than push on it, and adjust your stance to prevent a fall.
wheels if the work requires a running engine.
l
Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are
tightly closed on the nut or bolt and pulled so that
the force is on the side of the fixed jaw.
l
Do strike squarely with a hammer; avoid glancing blows.
l
Don’t run the engine in a garage or anywhere
else without proper ventilation-EVER! Carbon
monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave
the human body and you can build up a deadly supply of it in your system by simply breathing in a !ittle
every day. You may not realize you are slowly poisoning yourself. Always use power vents, windows,
fans and/or open the garage door.
l
Don’t work around moving parts while wearing
loose clothing. Short sleeves are much safer than
long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neoprene
soles protect your toes and give a better grip on slippery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt
buckles, beads or body adornment of any kind is not
safe working around a vehicle. Long hair should be
tied back under a hat or cap.
l
Don’t use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump
can drive a screwdriver deep into your body. Even a
rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap around
a spinning shaft or fan.
l
Don’t smoke when working around gasoline,
cleaning solvent or other flammable material.
l
Don’t smoke when workrng around the battery.
When the battery is being charged, it gives off explosive hydrogen gas.
l
Don’t use gasoline to wash your hands; there
are excellent soaps available. Gasoline contains dangerous additives which can enter the body through a
cut or through your pores. Gasoline also removes all
the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands
will suck up oil and grease.
l
Don’t service the air conditioning system unless you are equipped with the necessary tools and
trainmg. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant
is released to atmospheric pressure it will absorb
heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze
anything it touches.
l
Don’t use screwdrivers for anything other than
driving screws! A screwdriver used as an prying tool
can snap when you least expect it, causing injuries.
At the very least, you’ll ruin a good screwdriver.
. Don’t use an emergency jack (that little ratchet,
scissors, or pantograph jack supplied with the vehicle) for anything other than changing a flat! These
jacks are only Intended for emergency use out on the
road; they are NOT designed as a maintenance tool. If
you are serious about mamtaining your vehicle yourself, invest in a hydraulic floor jack of at least a 1%
ton capacity, and at least two sturdy jackstands.
sion which can increase the torque necessary to proper installation and safe operation of the vehicle
achieve the desired clamp load for which that fastener afterwards.
was originally selected. Additionally, be sure that the Thread gauges are available to help measure a bolt
p See Figures 20, 21, 22, and 23
driver surface of the fastener has not been compro- or stud’s thread. Most automotive and hardware
mised by rounding or other damage. In some cases a stores keep gauges available to help you select the
Although there are a great variety of fasteners found
driver surface may become only partially rounded, al- proper size. In a pinch, you can use another nut or
in the modern car or truck, the most commonly used
lowing the driver to catch in only one direction. In bolt for a thread gauge. If the bolt you are replacing is
retainer is the threaded fastener (nuts, bolts, screws,
many of these occurrences, a fastener may be in- not too badly damaged, you can select a match by
studs, etc.). Most threaded retainers may be reused,
stalled and tightened, but the driver would not be able finding another bolt which will thread in its place. If
provided that they are not damaged in use or during
to grip and loosen the fastener again. (This could lead you find a nut which threads properly onto the dam-
the repair. Some retainers (such as stretch bolts or
J to frustration down the line should that component aged bolt, then use that nut to help select the replace-
torque prevailing nuts) are designed to deform when
ever need to be disassembled again). ment bolt If however, the bolt you are replacing is so
tightened or in use and should not be reinstalled.
If you must replace a fastener, whether due to de- badly damaged (broken or drilled out) that its threads
Whenever possible, we will note any special re-
sign or damage, you must ALWAYS be sure to use cannot be used as a gauge, you might start by look-
tainers which should be replaced during a procedure.
the proper replacement In all cases, a retainer of the ing for another bolt (from the same assembly or a
But you should always inspect the condition of a re-
same design, material and strength should be used. similar location on your vehicle) which will thread
tainer when It is removed and replace any that show
Markings on the heads of most bolts will help deter- into the damaged bolt’s mounting. If so, the other bolt
signs of damage. Check all threads for rust or corro-
mine the proper strength of the fastener. The same
can be used to select a nut; the nut can then be used
material, thread and pitch must be selected to assure
to select the replacement bolt.
GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENAiCE I-7
POZIDRIVE
PHILLIPS RECESS
TORX@
CLUTCH RECESS
INDENTED HEXAGON HEXAGON TRIMMED HEXAGON WASHER HEAD
tccs1037
Fig. 20 Here are a few of the most common screw/bolt driver styles
GRADE 8 MADE 2 GRADE 5 QRADE 8 GRADE
7
WADE
0
ALLEN CARRIAGE
NUTS
Q
e
PUIN
JAM CASTLE
(CASTELLATED)
SELF-LOCKINQ
SPEED
FILLISTER
LOCKWASHERS
4% 43 Q c3
INTERNAL
EXTERNAL
SPLIT PLAIN
Toonl
TQonl
STUD
Fig. 21 There are many different types of threaded retainers found on vehicles
In all cases, be absolutely sure you have selected
the proper replacement. Don’t be shy, you can always
ask the store clerk for helo.
Be aware that when you find a bolt with damaged threads, you may also find the nut or
drilled hole it was threaded into has also
been damaged. If this is the case, you may
have to drill and tap the hole, replace the nut
or otherwise repair the threads. NEVER try to
force a replacement bolt to fit into the damaaed threads.
Torque is defined as the measurement of resis-
.
tance to turning or rotating. It tends to twist a body
about an axis of rotation. A common example of this
would be tightening a threaded retainer such as a nut,
bolt or screw. Measuring torque is one of the most
common ways to help assure that a threaded retainer
has been properly fastened.
When tightening a threaded fastener, torque is applied in three distinct areas, the head, the bearing
surface and the clamp load. About 50 percent of the
measured torque is used in overcoming bearing friction This is the friction between the bearing surface
of the bolt head, screw head or nut face
and
the base
material or washer (the surface on which the fastener
is rotating). Approximately 40 percent of the applied
torque is used in overcoming thread friction. This
leaves only about 10 percent of the applied torque to
develop a useful clamp load (the force which holds a
joint together). This means that friction can account
for as much as 90 percent of the applied torque on a
fastener.
TORQUE WRENCHES
ti See Figures 24 and 25
In most applications, a torque wrench can be used
to assure proper installation of a fastener. Torque
wrenches come in various designs and most automotive supply stores will carry a variety to suit your
needs. A torque wrench should be used any time we
supply a specific torque value for a fastener. A torque
wrench can also be used if you are following the general guidelines In the accompanying charts. Keep in
mind that because there is no worldwide standardization of fasteners, the charts are a general guideline
A - Length
B - Diameter (major diameter)
C - Threads per inch or mm
D - Thread length
E - Size of the wrench required
F - Root diameter (minor diameter)
IccSlO3l
Fig. 22 Threaded retainer sizes are deter
mined using these measurements
E - DCTERNAL
tm1016
Yg. 23 Special fasteners such as these
font@’ head bolts are used by manufactur?rs to discourage people from working on
rehicles without the proper tools
.
l-8 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
tccsio15
Fig. 24 Various styles of torque wrenches
are usually available at your local automotive supply store
and should be used with caution. Again, the general
rule of “if you are using the right tool for the job, you
should not have to strain to tighten a fastener” applies here.
Beam Type
# See Figure 26
The beam type torque wrench is one of the most
popular types. It consists of a pointer attached to the
head that runs the length of the flexible beam (shaft)
to a scale located near the handle. As the wrench is
pulled, the beam bends and the pointer indicates the
torque using the scale.
Click (Breakaway) Type
$ See Figure 27
Another popular design of torque wrench IS the
click type. To use the click type wrench you pre-adjust it to a torque setting. Once the torque is reached,
the wrench has a reflex signaling feature that causes
a momentary breakaway of the torque wrench body,
sending an impulse to the operator’s hand.
Pivot Head Type
# See Figure 27 and 28
Some torque wrenches (usually of the click type)
may be equipped with a pivot head which can allow it
to be used in areas of limited access. BUT, it must be
used properly. To hold a pivot head wrench, grasp
the handle lightly, and as you pull on the handle, it
should be floated on the pivot point. If the handle
comes in contact with the yoke extension during the
process of pulling, there is a very good chance the
torque readings will be inaccurate because this could
alter the wrench loading point. The design of the handle is usually such as to make it inconvenient to de-
liberately misuse the wrench.
*It should be mentioned that the use of any
U-joint, wobble or extension will have an effect on the torque readings, no matter what
type of wrench you are using. For the most
accurate readings, install the socket directly
on the wrench driver. If necessary, straight
extensions (which hold a socket directly under the wrench driver) will have the least effect on the torque reading. Avoid any extension that alters the length of the wrench from
the handle to the head/driving point (such as
a crow’s foot). U-joint or wobble extensions
can greatly affect the readings; avoid their
use at all times.
U.S. Bolts
UEonlr
Iy*
lU2 5
tw7
I*cll*olwu
Q
c
tbqn2lamlu
am~mkr.
@ 63
HaaIm Toqw mdmuo TORW
(h&l!&, RA&. m 111 R./U. If410 lm
m TolqW
R.Abs.
I(n
Hm
'I4 - 20 i 0.7 68 8 1.1 10.8 10 1.4 13.5
-28 08 8.1 10 1.4 13.6
%s-18 11 1.5 14.9 17 2.3 23.0 19 2.6 25.8
-24 13 1.8 17.6 19 2.6 25.7
S-16 18 2.5 24.4 31 4.3 42.0 34 4.7 46.0
-24 20 2.75 27.1 35 4.8 47.5
%s-14 28 3.8 37.0 49 8.8 66.4 55 7.6 74.5
-20 30 42 40.7 55 7.6 74.5
'h-13 39 5.4 52.8 75 10.4 101.7 85 11.75 115.2
-20 41 5.7 55.6 85 117 115.2
'h-12 51 7.0 69.2 110 15.2 149.1 120 16.6 162.7
-18 55 7.6 74.5 120 16.6 162.7
H-11 83 11.5 112.5 150 20.7 203.3 167 23.0 226.5
-18 95 13.1 128.8 170 23.5 230.5
s-10 105 14.5 142.3 270 37.3 366.0 280 36.7 379.6
-16 115 15.9 155.9 295 40.8 400.0
VD- 9 160 2.: 216.9 395 54.6 535.5 440 60.9 596.5
-14 175 237.2 435 80.1 589.7
l- 6 iti 32.5 318.6 lE 81.6 799.9 660 91.3 894.8
-14 34.6 338.9 91.3 849.8
Metric Bolts
4.6,4.8 8.8
c
@
w
mm04 iEn% (nnr)
I*rdn*lrTwlr
rullllllnl~
RJU.
I(n
llm RAk
m
mu
6x1.0 2-3 2-.4 3-4 3-6 4-.8 5-8
8x 1.25 6-8 .6-l 8-12 9-14 12-1.9 13-19
10X1.25 12-17 1.5-2.3 16-23 20-29 2.7-4.0 27-39
12x125 21-32 2.9-4.4 29-43 35-53 4.8-7.3 47-72
14x 1.5 35-52 4.8-7.1 48-70 57-65 7.8-11.7 77-110
16x 1.5 51-77 7.0-10.6 67-100 90-120 12.4-16.5 130-W
18x 1.5 74-110 10.2-15.1 100-150 130-170 17.9-23.4 MO-230
20x 1.5 llO-140 15.1-19.3 150-190 190-240 26.2-46.9 160-320
22x 1.5 150-190 22.0-26.2 200-260 250-320 34.5-44.1 340-430
24x 1.5 190-240 26.2-48.9 260-320 310-410 42.7-56.5 420-550
lccs1098
:ig. 25 Standard and metric bolt torque specifications based on bolt strengths-WARNING:
Ise only as a guide
1
PIVOTEO HANDLE
BEAU OR MEASURING ELEMENT
Yg. 26 Example of a beam type torque wrench
. tccslo3~
GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-9
Fig. 27 A click type or breakaway torque
wrench-note that this one has a pivoting
head
v
WRONG
WRONG
PIVOTED HANDLE TOR(IUE WRENCH
tccS1041
Fig. 28 Torque wrenches with pivoting
heads must be grasped and used properly
to prevent an incorrect reading
Rigid Case (Direct Reading)
# See Figure 29
A rigid case or direct reading torque wrench is
equipped with a dial indicator to show torque values.
One advantage of these wrenches is that they can be
held at any position on the wrench without affecting
accuracy. These wrenches are often preferred because they tend to be compact, easy to read and have
a great degree of accuracy.
lccs1042
Fig. 29 The rigid case (direct reading)
torque wrench uses a dial indicator to show
torque
TORQUEANGLEMETERS
# See Figure 30
Because the frictional characteristics of each fas-
tener or threaded hole will vary, clamp loads which
are based strictly on torque will vary as well. In most
applications, this variance IS not significant enough
to cause worry. But, in certain applications, a manufacturers engineers may determine that more precise
clamp loads are necessary (such is the case with
:ig. 30 Some specifications require the use
rf a torque angle meter (mechanical pro.
ractor)
many aluminum cylinder heads). In these cases, a
torque angle method of installation would be specified. When installing fasteners which are torque angle
tightened, a predetermined seating torque and stan-
dard torque wrench are usually used first to remove
any compliance from the joint. The fastener is then
tightened the specified additional portion of a turn
measured in degrees. A torque angle gauge (mechanical protractor) is used for these applications.
) See Figure 31
Throughout this manual, specifications are given to
help you determine the condition of various components on your vehicle, or to assist you in their installation. Some of the most common measurements include length (in. or cm/mm), torque (ft. Ibs., inch Ibs.
or Nm) and pressure (psi, in. Hg, kPa or mm Hg). In
most cases, we strive to provide the proper measurement as determined by the manufacturers engineers.
Though, in some cases, that value may not be conveniently measured with what is available in your
toolbox. Luckily, many of the measuring devices
CONVERSION FACTORS
LENGTH-DISTANCE
Inches (I”.) x 25.4 = Millimeters (mm) x .0394 = Inches
Feet (ft.) x ,305
= Meters (m)
x 3.281 = Feet
Miles x 1.609 = Kilometers (km)
x .0621
= Miles
VOLUME
Cubic Inches (in3)
x 16.387 = Cubic Centimeters x .061 = in3
IMP Pints (IMP pt.) x .568 = Liters (L)
x 1.76
= IMP pt.
IMP Quarts (IMP qt.) x 1.137 = Liters (L)
x .88 = IMP qt.
IMP Gallons (IMP gal.) x 4.546 = Liters (L)
7, .22
= IMP gal.
IMP Quarts (IMP qt ) x 1.201 = US Quarts (US qt.)
x ,833 = IMP qt.
IMP Gallons (IMP gal.)
x 1.201
= US Gallons (US gal.)
x ,833
= IMP gal.
Fl. Ounces x 29.573 = Millihters
x 034
= Ounces
us Pints (Us pt.) x ,473 = Liters (L)
x 2.113 = Pints
US Quarts (US qt.) x .946 = Liters (L)
x 1.057
= Quarts
US Gallons (US gal.) x 3.785 = Liters (L)
x ,264 = Gallons
MASS-WEIGHT
Ounces (oz.)
x 28.35
= Grams (g)
x ,035
= Ounces
Pounds (lb ) x ,454 = Kdograms (kg)
x 2.205
= Pounds
PRESSURE ’
Pounds Per Sq. In. (psi) x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x ,145 = psi
Inches of Mercury (Hg)
x .4912
= psi
x 2.036 = Hg
Inches of Mercury (Hg) x 3.377 = Kilopascals (kPa)
x .2961
= Hg
Inches of Water (H,O)
x .07355
= Inches of Mercury x 13 783 = H,O
Inches of Water (H,O) x .03613 = psi
x 27.684
= Hz0
Inches of Water (H,O) x ,248
= Kilopascals (kPa)
x4026
= H,O
TORQUE
Pounds-Force Inches (in-lb)
x ,113 = Newton Meters (N.m)
x 8.85 = in-lb
Pounds-Force Feet (ft-lb)
x 1.356 = Newton Meters (N*m)
x ,738 = ft-lb
VELOCITY
Miles Per Hour (MPH)
x 1.609 = Kilometers Per Hour (KPH)
x .621 = MPH
POWER
Horsepower (Hp) x ,745 = Kdowatts
x 1.34
= Horsepower
FUEL CONSUMPTION’
Mdes Per Gallon IMP (MPG) x .354
= Kilometers Per Liter (Km/L)
Kilometers Per Liter (Km/L)
x 2.352 = IMP MPG
Miles Per Gallon US (MPG) x ,425
= Kilometers Per Liter (Km/L)
Kdometers Per Liter (Km/L) x 2.352
= US MPG
*It 1s common to covert from miles per gallon (mpg) to hters/lOO kilometers (l/100 km), where mpg (IMP) x l/ID0 km
= 282 and mpg (US) x l/lo0 km = 235.
TEMPERATURE
Degree Fahrenheit CF) = (“C x 1.8) + 32
Degree Celsms (‘C)
= CF - 32) x 56
tccsio4d
Fig. 31 Standard and metric conversion factors chart
.
l-10 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
which are available today will have two scales so the
The conversion factor chart is used by taking the
Standard or Metric measurements may easily be given specification and multiplying it by the necestaken. If any of the various measuring tools which are sary conversion factor. For instance, looking at the
available to you do not contain the same scale as first line, if you have a measurement in inches such
listed in the specifications, use the accompanying
as “free-play should be 2 in.” but your ruler reads
conversion factors to determine the proper value. only in millimeters, multiply 2 in. by the conversion
factor of 25.4 to get the metric equivalent of 50.8mm.
Likewise, if the specification was given only in a Metric measurement, for example in Newton Meters
(Nm), then look at the center column first. If the measurement is 100 Nm, multiply it by the conversion
factor of 0.738 to get 73.8 ft. Ibs.
b See Figures 32,33, and 34
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is located
on a plate which is attached to the left top side of the
instrument panel. These numbers are visible from the
outside of the vehicle. All Vehicle Identification Numbers contain 17 digits. The vehicle number is a code
which tells country, make, vehicle type, engine, body
and many other important characteristics of that specific vehicle.
There is also a vehicle information code plate
which is riveted to the bulkhead in the engine compartment. The plate shows the VIN, model code, engine model, transaxle model and body color codes.
The engine code used on this plate differs from the
code letter used in the 8th position of the Vehicle
Identification Number (VIN). Either code can be used
to identify the particular engine in the vehicle. Since
the vehicle owners card is usually carried, it may be
if the engine is equipped with a turbocharger. If the
8th VIN number is a U, there is no doubt that the engine in question is a 2.OL DOHC engine equipped
with a turbocharger.
The engine codes found on the vehicle information
code plate are as follows:
l
4G15--1.5L SOHC engine
l
4G61-1.6L DOHC engine
l
4G93-1.8L SOHC engine
l
4G63-2.OL (SOHC or DOHC) engine
l
4G64-2.4L (SOHC or DOHC) engine
l
6G72-3.OL (SOHC or DOHC) engine
l
6G74-3.5L DOHC engine
A vehicle safety certification label is attached to
the face of the left door pillar post. This label indicates the month and year of manufacture, Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GRVW) front and rear, and Vehicle Identification Number (VIM).
4 character code as on the vehicle information code
plate is used. The engine serial number is also
stamped near the engine model number. As mentioned above, the engine can also be identified by the
8th digit in the VIN number.
The transaxle model code is located on the vehicle
information code plate. The transaxle identification
number is etched on a boss located on the front upper portion of the case.
The code for the drive axle is etched on a boss located on the case of the differential carrier.
easier to use the code letter in the VIN for engine reference. A second reason for referring to the VIN for
engine identification is that code 4663, located on
the vehicle information code plate, does identify the
engine as a 2.OL DOHC engine, but does not tell you
) See Figure 35
The engine model number is stamped at the front
side on the top edge of the cylinder block. The same
Fig. 32 The Vehicle Identification Number
g3’51p’o of the instrument panel _I:^1 /
Fig. 33 The vehicle model, engine model,
(VIN) plate is attached to the top left side
bansaxle model, and body color code are all
noted on the vehicle information code plate
ENGINE AND VEHiCLE IDENTlFlCATlON
EnglnCode
ModelYerr
todeal
LIten (cc)
Cu. In.
W.
Fuel+ Type m.hWg.
Code@
Year
,G15JA 1.5 (1468) 92
4 MFI SOHC Mitsubishi
L 1990
IG61N 1.6(15QQ) 98 4 MFI DOHC
Mitsubishi M 1991
1G93lC 1.8 (1834) 112
4 MFI SOHC Mitsubishi N 1992
IG63N 2.0 (1997) 122 4 MFI SOHC
“-Mitsubishi P
1993
!G63Fi 2.0 (1997) 122
4 MFI DOHC
Mitsubishi
R 1994
,G63iU 2.0 (1997) 122
4 MFI-Tuibo DOHC
Mitsubishi
S 1995
.GMffi 2.4 (2351) 143
4 MFI SOHC
Mitsubishi T 1996
iG64L 2.4 (2351) 143
4 MFI DOHC Mitsubishi V
lEzH 3.0
1997
(2972) 161
6 MFI SOHC
Mitsubishi W \ 1998
;G7ZJ 3.0 (2Q72) 161 6 MFI GQHC
Mitsubishi
~..
X 1999
iG7zL 3.0 (2972) 181
~
6 MFI SOHC
___-___ Miisubishi
Y 2000
iG74lP 3.5 (3497) 213 6 MFI SOHC Miisubishi
The transfer case has no separate model code, the
code is located on the transaxle. The transfer case is
onlv eoUiODed on manual transaxle All Wheel Drive
(AWD)‘mbdels.
Fig. 34 Your car should have a vehicle
Fig. 35 Engine model number location-
4663 (2.OL) engine shown
UNDERHDDD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS-2AL ENGINE
II
1. Power steering belt 7. PCV valve
2. Washer solvent bottle
8. Distributor cap and rotor
3. Power steering reservoir 9. Fuel filter (under air inlet tube)
4. Oil fill cap 10. Air filter housing
5. Brake master cylinder reservoir 11. Engine compartment fuse box
6. Spark plug and plug wire 12. Battery
13. Automatic transaxle fluid dipstick
14. Coolant recovery tank
15. Radiator cap
16. Engine oil dipstick
UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS-l .8L ENGINE
1. Coolant recovery tank
2. Battery
3. Engine compartment fuse box
4.
Air filter housing
5. Clutch fluid reservoir
6.
Brake master cylinder reservoir
7. Spark plug and plug wire
8. PCV valve
9. Engine oil fill cap
10. Fuel filter
11. Engine compartment relay center
12. Washer solvent bottle
13. Power steering reservoir
14. Power steering belt
15. Engine oil dipstick
16. Radiator cap
GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-13
Engine
GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Fuel
Net Net
Com-
Oil
Displacement Engine Engine No. of System Horsepower Torque @ rpm Bore x Stroke pression
Pressure
MFI Mult+wt fuel mfectw,
MFI-T - Multlporl fuel mfectlon-turbocharged
SOHC - Smgle overhead camshaft
DOHC - Double OvedEad camshaft
l
l-14 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Proper maintenance and tune-up is the key to long
and trouble-free vehicle life, and the work can yield
its own rewards. Studies have shown that a properly
tuned and maintained vehicle can achieve better gas
mileage than an out-of-tune vehicle. As a conscien-
tious owner and driver, set aside a Saturday morning,
say once a month, to check or replace items which
could cause major problems later. Keep your own
personal log to jot down which services you per-
formed, how much the parts cost you, the date, and
the exact odometer reading at the time. Keep all re-
selfer, these receipts are the only proof you have that
ceipts for such items as engine oil and filters, so that
they may be referred tp in case of related problems or
to determine operating expenses. As a do-it-your-
the required maintenance was performed. In the event
of a warranty problem, these receipts will be invaluable.
The literature provided with your vehicle when it
was originally delivered includes the factory recommended maintenance schedule. If you no longer have
this literature, replacement copies are usually available from the dealer. A maintenance schedule is provided later in this section, in case you do not have
the factory literature.
*
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
Except 2.gL Turbocharged Engine
b See Figures 36 thru 41
9. Place a new air cleaner element inside the
lower housing. Make sure the seal on the element is
fully seated in the groove.
10. Install the upper air cleaner housing and inlet
tube onto the lower housing.
11. Tighten the clamp on the inlet tube at the
throttle body.
12. Attach the breather hose onto the air inlet tube.
13. Plug the connector into the MAF sensor.
14. Attach the air cleaner housing retaining clips.
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
2.DL Turbocharged Engine
b See Figure 42
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the air flow sensor connector.
3. Unfasten the boost hose.
4. Disconnect the solenoid valve with hoses.
93151p50
Fig. 36 Release the retaining clips from the
air cleaner housing
r3151p47
Fig. 37 Unplug the MAF sensor connector
Fig. 49
. . . then remove the air outlet tube
and upper housing from the lower housing
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
5. Disconnect the air intake hose.
2. Release the retaining clips from the air
6. Unfasten tie air cleaner retainer bolts and the
cleaner housing.
air cleaner assembly.
3.
Loosen the clamp on the air outlet tube at the
7. Unclamp the cover and remove from the hous-
throttle body.
ing.
4. Detach the breather hose from the air inlet
tube.
*Care must be taken when removing the air
cleaner cover. The air flow sensor is at-
5.
Unplug the MAF sensor connector.
6.
Separate the upper and lower air cleaner
tached and could be damaged during cover
removal.
housings and remove the air outlet tube and upper
housing from the lower housing.
7.
Remove the air cleaner element from the
housing.
To install:
8. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing of
any dirt and debris that has collected inside.
8. Remove the air cleaner element. Thoroughly
clean the air cleaner housing prior to replacing the air
filter.
To install:
9. Install the new air cleaner element into the
housing. Install and secure the cover in place.
Fig. 38 Detach the breather hose from the
air tniet tube
Fig. 41 Remove the air cleaner element
from the housing
Fig. 39 Loosen the clamp on the air outlet
tube at the throttle body . . .
Fig. 42 Detach the air flow sensor connector, the boost hose and the solenoid valve
connector
GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-15
10. install the air cleaner assembly and the re-
*Wrap shop towels around the fitting that is
tainer bolts.
being dtsconnected to absorb residual fuel in
11. Connect the air intake hose.
the lines.
9. While holding the fuel filter nut with abackup wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to 22 ft. Ibs. (30
Nm). Tighten the flare nut to 25 ft. Ibs. (35 Nm), with
12. Attach the solenoid valve.
4. Cover the hose connection with shop towels to
a back-up wrench on the nut.
13. Connect the boost hose.
14. Attach the air flow sensor connector.
prevent any splash of fuel that could be caused by
10. Tighten the filter mounting bolts to 10 ft. Ibs.
residual pressure in the fuel pipe line. Hold the fuel
(14 Nm).
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
11.
\
filter nut securely with a backup wrench, then remove
Connect the negative battery cable. Turn the
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
the banjo bolt on the engine feed line. Disconnect the
high-pressure fuel line from the filter. Remove and
discard the gaskets.
5. While holding the fuel filter nut securely with a
back-up wrench, loosen the filter feed pipe flare nut
key to the ON position to pressurize the fuel system
and check for leaks.
12. If repairs of a leak are required, remember to
release the fuel pressure before opening the fuel systern.
u See Figures 43 thru 48
On most vehicles covered by this manual, the fuel
filter is located in the engine compartment, mounted
to the firewall.
Do not use conventional fuel filters, hoses or
clamps when servicing fuel injection sys
terns. They are not compatible with the injection
system and
could fail, causing personal
injury or damage to the vehicle. Use only
hoses and clamps specifically designed for
fuel injection systems.
1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure as
outlined in Section 5 of this manual.
on the bottom of the filter. Separate the flare nut connection from the filter. If equipped, remove and discard the gaskets.
6. Remove the mounting bolts and remove
. ,,,. ,.
.a r I,.,< I
the
ruer rrrter. II necessary, remove me ruer rrrrer oracket.
To install:
7. Install the filter to its bracket only finger-tight.
Movement of the filter will ease attachment of the fuel
lines.
Ensure that the filter is installed with the flow
arrow in the proper direction. The flow arrow
typically points toward the engine side of the
filter. improper installation of the fuel filter
will cause the vehicle to run poorly.
2. If not already done, disconnect the negative
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
u See Figures 49, 50, and 51
1, Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If necessary for access, remove the air intake
hose and air cleaner assembly.
3. If necessary, unfasten the retaining clamp, then
disconnect the ventilation hose from the PCV valve.
4. Remove the PCV valve from the camshaft
(rocker) cover.
To install:
5. Install the PCV valve into the rocker cover. If
the valve is threaded, tighten the valve until snug.
battery cable.
3. On most models. the iob is made easier if the
air inlet hose and upper air cleaner housing is re-
moved from the vehicle.
*Make sure new O-rings are installed prior
to installation.
8. Insert the filter feed pipe to the lower connection of the filter and manually screw in the main
pipe’s flare nut.
6. Reconnect the ventilation hose to the valve.
7. If removed, install the air intake hose and the
a .ir cleaner assembly.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
Fig. 43 Use a back-up wrench on the fuel
I I
93151@3
filter nut when loosening the banjo-bolt on
Fig. 44 After the banjo-bolt is loose, remove
I
1 the engine feed line -
from the fuel filter
93151p93
Fig. 48 Make sure to
use
a back-up wrench
1 when unfastening the main fuel pipe also 1
Fig. 47 Remove the two filter bracket re-
taining bolts . . .
Fig. 45 Make sure to replace the copper
washers on the banjo-bolt fitting
Fig. 48 . . . then remove the filter from the
vehicle
*
l-16 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 49 Grasp the valve and gently remove
Fig. 50 Twist and pull on the valve to re-
it from the valve cover
move it from the hose
Fig. 51 Inspect the grommet and replace if
cracked or leaking oil
SERVICING
corrosive acid can also eat away at components under the hood.
Always visually inspect the battery case for cracks,
leakage and corrosion. A white corrosive substance
u See Figure 52
The evaporative canister requires no periodic servicing. However, a careful inspection of the canister
and hoses should be made frequently, Replace dam-
on the battery case or on nearby components would
indicate a leaking or cracked battery. If the battery is
cracked, it should be replaced immediately.
GENERALMAINTENANCE '_
devices that increase parasitic load may discharge a
battery sooner. If the vehicle is to be stored for 6-B
weeks in a secure area and the alarm system, if present, is not necessary, the negative battery cable
should be disconnected at the onset of storage to
protect the battery charge.
Remember that constantly discharging and
recharging will shorten battery life. Take rare not to
allow a battery to be needlessly discharged.
aged components as required.
The canister is typically located under one of the
front fenders, however on some later models it may
be under the rear of the vehicle, near the gas tank,
r on most models
# See Figure 53
A battery that is not sealed must be checked periodically for electrolyte level. You cannot add water to
a sealed maintenance-free battery (though not all
maintenance-free batteries are sealed); however, a
sealed battery must also be checked for proper electrolyte level, as indicated by the color of the built-in
hydrometer “eye.”
Always keep the battery cables and terminals free
of corrosion. Check these components about once a
year. Refer to the removal, installation and cleaning
procedures outlined in this section,
Keep the top of the battery clean, as a film of dirt
can help completely discharge a battery that is not
used for long periods. A solution of baking soda and
water may be used for cleaning, but be careful to
flush this off with clear water. DO NOT let any of the
solution into the filler holes. Baking soda neutralizes
battery acid and will de-activate a battery cell.
Batteries in vehicles which are not operated on a
regular basis can fall victim to parasitic loads (small
BA-ITERY FLUID
Check the battery electrolyte level at least once a
month. or more often in hot weather or during periods of extended vehicle operation. On non-sealed
batteries, the level can be checked either through the
case on translucent batteries or by removing the cell
caps on opaque-cased types. The electrolyte level in
each cell should be kept filled to the split ring inside
each ceil, or the line marked on the outside of the
case.
If the level is low, add only distilled water through
the opening until the level is correct. Each cell is separate from the others, so each must be checked and
filled individuallv. Distilled water should be used, because the chemicals and minerals found in most
drinking water are harmful to the battery and could
significantly shorten its life.
If water is added in freezing weather, the vehicle
should be driven several miles to allow the water to
mix with the electrolyte. Otherwise, the battery could
freeze.
current drains which are constantly drawing current
from the battery). Normal parasitic loads may drain a
Although some maintenance-free batteries have
removable cell caos for access to the electrolyte,
the
cause a short circuit, leading to sparks and possible
personal injury.
Do not smoke, have an open flame or create
sparks near a battery; the gases contained in the battery are very explosive and, if ignited, could cause severe injury or death.
All batteries, regardless of type, should be carefully secured by a battery hold-down device. If this is
not done, the battery terminals or casing may crack
from stress applied to the battery during vehicle operation. A battery which is not secured may allow acid
to leak out, making it discharge faster; such leaking
m / built-in hydrometer. .
\
*Although the readings from built-in hydrometers found in sealed batteries may
vary, a
green
eye usually
indicates a prop
erly charged battery with sufficient fluid
level. A dark eye is normally an indicator of a
battery wlth sufficient fluid, but one which
may be low in charge. And a light or yellow
eye is usually an indication that electrolyte
supply has dropped below the necessary
tcu1@32
Fig. 53 A typical location for the built-in hv-
level for battery (and hydrometer) operation.
drometer on maintenan
ce-free batteries ’ I
In this last case. sealed batteries with an in-
sufficient electrolyte level must usually be
’ discarded.
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