MINI Cooper 1969-2001, Cooper S 1969-2001, 1000 1969-2001 User Manual

1

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Air pump drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Carburettor idle speed and mixture adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Clutch hydraulic check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Clutch return stop adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Contact breaker points check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Control box cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Distributor cap, rotor arm and HT lead check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Distributor lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Door, boot and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Drum brake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Dynamo check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Emission control equipment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Engine/transmission oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Fan belt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Front brake wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Fuel filter renewal (fuel injection models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Fuel system components, checks and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Handbrake check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Ignition timing check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Rear brake wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Seats and seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Steering and suspension lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Valve clearance adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

1•2 Servicing specifications

Lubricants and fluids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to end of “Weekly Checks”

Capacities

Engine oil with filter change

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.8 litres

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 litres

Engine oil without filter change (approximate)

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.2 litres

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.4 litres

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres

Fuel tank

Saloon and Clubman (approximate):

Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 litres

Later models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 litres

Estate, Van and Pick-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 litres

1275 GT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 litres

Cooper S Mk III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 litres

Engine

Oil filter type:

Pre-1973 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X101 (cartridge type)

1974-on models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C103 (canister type)

Cooling system

Fan belt adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.0 mm deflection of belt between crankshaft and dynamo/alternator

pulleys

Specified antifreeze mixture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30% antifreeze/70% water

Note: Refer to Chapter 3 for further details.

Fuel system - carburettor models

Air cleaner element type:

Pre-1973 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W131

1974-on models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W125

1990-on 1275 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W250

Fuel system - fuel injection models

Air cleaner element type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

Fuel filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

Exhaust and emission control systems

Air pump drivebelt adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.0 mm deflection of belt between pulleys

Ignition system

Spark plugs:*

Type:

All models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC

998 cc engine models, 1987 to 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N12YCC or N12YC

998 cc engine models (1989-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN12YCC or RN12YC

1275 cc engine models (1990-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC

Electrode gap:

All Champion plug types except RN9YC and N12YC . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

Champion RN9YC and N12YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 mm

HT leads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-02, boxed set

*Spark plug types and electrode gaps are as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. If alternative plugs are used, refer to their manufacturer’s
recommendations.

Clutch

Clutch return stop clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 mm

Brakes

Minimum brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mm

Minimum brake pad thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mm

Handbrake lever travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 clicks of ratchet

Tyres

Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine/transmission oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 25

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 45

Maintenance schedule 1•3

1

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Refer to “Weekly Checks”

Every 3000 miles (5000 km) or
3 months, whichever comes first

In addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Adjust the front and rear drum brakes (Section 3)
mm Check the operation of the handbrake and adjust if

necessary (Section 4)

mm Check the condition and security of the steering

and suspension components (Section 5)

mm Inspect the underbody and the brake hydraulic

pipes and hoses (Section 6)

mm Check the condition of the fuel lines (Section 6)
mm Check the condition and security of the exhaust

system (Section 7)

mm Check the condition of the fan belt and renew if

necessary (Section 8)

mm Check the condition of the air pump drivebelt

(where applicable) and renew if necessary
(Section 9)

mm Inspect the clutch hydraulic components

(Section 10)

mm Check the condition of the seats and seat belts

(Section 11)

mm Check the headlight beam alignment (Section 12)

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
6 months, whichever comes first

In addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the engine/transmission oil and filter

(Section 13)

mm Check the condition of the front brake shoes and/or

pads, and renew if necessary (Section 14)

mm Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters

(Section 15)

mm Lubricate the suspension and steering grease

points (Section 16)

mm Check the condition of the rear brake shoes and

renew if necessary (Section 17)

mm Check all underbonnet components and hoses for

fluid leaks (Section 18)

mm Check and if necessary top up the carburettor

piston dashpot and lubricate the linkage
(Section 19)

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
6 months, whichever comes first
(continued)

mm Check the condition of the contact breaker points

and adjust or renew (Section 20)

mm Lubricate the distributor (Section 21)
mm Check and if necessary adjust the clutch return

stop (Section 22)

mm Lubricate the dynamo bearing - early models

(Section 23)

mm Clean and inspect the dynamo charging system

control box (Section 24)

mm Check and if necessary adjust the ignition timing

(Section 25)

mm Check and if necessary adjust the carburettor idle

speed and mixture settings (Section 26)

mm Lubricate the locks and hinges (Section 27)
mm Check the condition of the exterior trim and

paintwork (Section 28)

mm Road test (Section 29)

Note: Renewal of the engine/transmission oil and filter at this service
interval is only necessary on pre-1985 models. On all other models,
oil and filter renewal is recommended at 12 000 miles/12 months.

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months, whichever comes first

In addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the air cleaner element (Section 30)
mm Check and if necessary adjust the valve clearances

(Section 31)

mm Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads

(Section 32)

mm Renew the spark plugs (Section 33)
mm Check the emission control equipment (Section 34)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or
twenty four months, whichever
comes first

In addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the coolant (Section 35)
mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 36)
mm Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models

(Section 37)

The maintenance intervals in this manual
are provided with the assumption that you,
not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the average maintenance intervals
recommended by the manufacturer for
vehicles driven daily under normal conditions.
Obviously some variation of these intervals

may be expected depending on territory of
use, and conditions encountered. If you wish
to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all
times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures more often. We encourage
frequent maintenance because it enhances
the efficiency, performance and resale value

of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used
to tow a trailer, driven frequently at slow
speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,
more frequent maintenance intervals are
recommended.

1•4 Maintenance - component location

Underbonnet view of a 998 cc Mini 1000 Saloon

1 Brake master cylinder reservoir
2 Clutch master cylinder reservoir
3 Fuse block
4 Carburettor piston damper
5 Air cleaner

6 Windscreen wiper motor
7 Radiator pressure cap
8 Engine/transmission oil filler cap
9 Alternator
10 Engine/transmission oil dipstick

11 Distributor
12 Ignition coil
13 Vehicle identification plate
14 Clutch slave cylinder
15 Windscreen washer reservoir

Maintenance - component location 1•5

1

Underbonnet view of a 1275 cc Mini Cooper Saloon

(air cleaner removed for clarity)

1 Alternator
2 Ignition coil
3 Engine/transmission oil dipstick
4 Engine management (fuel

injection/ignition) ECU

5 Radiator pressure cap

6 Brake fluid reservoir cap
7 Brake system vacuum servo unit
8 Relay module
9 Fuel cut-off inertia switch
10 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)

sensor fuel trap

11 Fuel return pipe
12 Fuel feed pipe
13 Accelerator cable
14 Throttle body assembly
15 Heater coolant valve
16 Charcoal canister purge valve

1•6 Maintenance - component location

Front underside view of a 998 cc Mini 1000 Saloon

1 Engine/transmission oil drain plug
2 Oil filter
3 Front suspension tie-bar
4 Disc brake caliper
5 Driveshaft outer CV joint

6 Front subframe
7 Subframe rear mounting
8 Offset sphere type inner CV joint
9 Gearchange extension rod
10 Battery positive cable

11 Steering tie-rod outer balljoint
12 Lower suspension arm
13 Exhaust bracket

Maintenance - component location 1•7

1

Rear underside view of a 998 cc Mini 1000 Saloon

1 Rear subframe
2 Rear brake wheel cylinder attachment

3 Exhaust rear silencer
4 Battery box
5 Exhaust mounting

6 Handbrake cable guide
7 Battery positive cable

1 Introduction

1 This Chapter is designed to help the home

mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
2 This Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals will not produce the same results.
4 As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can ­and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust should be
inspected at the same time as the suspension
and steering components.
5 The first step of this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all

the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be some times
when the engine is running poorly due to the
lack of regular maintenance. This is even more
likely if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuable
information regarding the overall performance
of the main internal components. Such a test
can be used as a basis to decide on the
extent of the work to be carried out. If, for
example, a compression test indicates serious
internal engine wear, conventional
maintenance as described in this Chapter will
not greatly improve the performance of the
engine, and may prove a waste of time and
money, unless extensive overhaul work
(Chapter 2B) is carried out first.
4 The following series of operations are those
often required to improve the performance of
a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See

“Weekly checks”).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See

“Weekly checks”).

c) Check and if necessary adjust the valve

clearances (Section 31).

d) Check the condition of the fan belt

(Section 8).

e) Top up the carburettor piston damper

(Section 19)

f) Check the condition and adjustment of

the contact breaker points (Section 20).

g) Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and

HT leads (Section 32).
h) Renew the spark plugs (Section 33).
i) Check and if necessary adjust the ignition

timing (Section 25).
j) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element and renew if necessary

(Section 30).
k) Check and if necessary adjust the

carburettor idle speed and mixture

settings (Section 26).
l) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection

models (Section 37).
m)Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 18).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following operations:

Secondary operations

All the items listed under “Primary
operations”, plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).
b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).
c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A and B).
d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm

(Section 32).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 32).

3 Drum brake adjustment

2

1 As wear takes place on the brake shoe
friction material, the clearance between the
friction material and the inner circumference
of the brake drum will increase, resulting in
excessive brake pedal travel before the
brakes are applied. To compensate for this,
adjusters are provided at the rear of each
brake backplate, enabling the clearance
between the brake shoe and drum to be kept
to a minimum.
2 At the front two adjusters are fitted to each
brake backplate. At the rear a single adjuster
is located at the top of each brake backplate.

Front brakes

3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

4 Each front brake has two adjusters of the
eccentric cam type, accessible from the rear
of each brake backplate. One of these
adjusters is located behind the steering arm
and insufficient clearance exists to enable an
ordinary brake adjusting spanner to be used.
Providing the adjuster is not excessively tight
or partially seized in the backplate, a 5⁄16 in AF
open-ended spanner can be used quite
successfully to turn the adjuster.
5 Begin by turning one of the adjusters in the
forward direction of wheel rotation until the
wheel is locked (see illustration). Now back it
off slightly, until the wheel turns freely. The
brake drum may rub slightly in one or two
places as the wheel is turned. This is
acceptable providing the wheel does not bind.

Caution: If, when attempting to adjust the
brakes, the square-headed adjuster is
reluctant to turn, it is quite likely that it has
become seized in its housing. If this is the
case do not force it, or you will probably
break off the square head, necessitating

renewal of the complete backplate
assembly. Apply liberal amounts of
penetrating oil to the rear of the adjuster
and allow it to soak in. Now turn the
adjuster back and forth slightly, using
gentle force if necessary, increasing the
movement each time. When the adjuster
turns easily apply a multipurpose grease to

1•8 Maintenance procedures

Every 3000 miles or 3 months

3.5 Adjusting one of the front brake

adjusters with a brake adjusting spanner

the exposed portion of the adjuster at the
rear of the backplate and then turn it
through its entire travel. Preferably do this
with the brake drum removed.

6 Turn the second adjuster also in the
direction of forward wheel rotation until the
drum locks again. Now back the adjuster off
until the wheel turns freely once more.
7 Repeat this procedure for the other front
wheel and then lower the car to the ground.

Rear brakes

8 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Ensure
that the handbrake is off.
9 Using a brake adjusting spanner, turn the
square-headed adjuster in a clockwise
direction (viewed from the rear of the
backplate) until the wheel is locked (see
illustration). The adjusters on the rear brakes
are even more prone to seizure than those at
the front. If the adjuster is reluctant to turn
attempt to free it off as described above. If
this fails, remove the rear brake drums and
brake shoes as described in Chapter 9, and
clean and lubricate the adjuster thoroughly.
When all is well, refit the brake assemblies
and start the adjustment procedure again.
10 Now turn the adjuster back a quarter of a

turn at a time until the wheel turns freely
without binding. A slight rubbing may be felt
when the wheel is turned slowly, indicating a
high spot on the drum or dust on the linings.
This is acceptable providing the drum does
not bind.
11 Repeat this procedure for the other rear
brake then, before lowering the car to the
ground, check the handbrake adjustment as
described in the following Section.

4 Handbrake check and

adjustment

2

1 Adjustment of the handbrake cables is
usually only necessary after high mileage
when a slight stretching of the cables will have
taken place, or if the cables have been
removed.
2 Before adjusting the handbrake check that
the footbrake is correctly adjusted as
described in Section 3.
3 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
4 Apply the handbrake lever to the third notch
of the ratchet and check that the rear wheels
are locked. If not, adjust the handbrake as
follows.
5 With the handbrake still applied to the third
click of the ratchet, tilt the front seats forward,
and on models having twin cables, tighten the
cable adjusting nuts at the base of the lever
until the rear wheels can only just be turned
by heavy hand pressure. On models having a
single front cable, slacken the locknut and
rotate the cable adjusting nut. When the
wheels can only just be turned by heavy hand
pressure, tighten the locknut (see

illustrations).
6 Release the handbrake lever and ensure

that the wheels rotate freely. If satisfactory
lower the car to the ground.

5 Steering and suspension

check

2

Steering

1 First check for wear in the steering tie-rod
outer balljoints. Turn the steering to left or
right lock sufficiently to allow the joints to be
observed. Now have an assistant turn the
steering wheel back and forth slightly. If there
is any side movement in the balljoint it must
be renewed. Similarly place your hand over
the rubber gaiter at the end of the rack
housing and feel for any excess free play of
the inner balljoint. If the condition of this joint
is suspect, a further investigation should be
carried out with the gaiter removed as
described in Chapter 10.
2 Check the tightness of the steering column
clamp bolt at the base of the column. Any
slackness at this joint can also show up as
free play at the steering wheel.

Front suspension

3 To inspect the front suspension, chock the
rear wheels then jack up the front of the car
and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking
and vehicle support”).
4 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers
and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing
or deterioration. Any wear of these
components will cause loss of lubricant,
together with dirt and water entry, resulting in
rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering
gear.
5 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and try to rock it. If any
movement is felt it is likely to be in one or
more of the following areas:

Hub bearings

6 Continue rocking the wheel while your

assistant depresses the footbrake. If the

Every 3000 miles or 3 months 1•9

1

3.9 Adjusting the rear brakes

4.5a Handbrake adjustment on models with twin cables 4.5b Handbrake cable adjusting nut on models with a
single front cable

movement disappears or becomes less
severe, then the wheel hub bearings in the
swivel hub are at fault. Any perceptible
movement at all indicates wear in the hub
bearings, and they should be renewed as
described in Chapter 10.

Swivel hub balljoints

7 Wear of the swivel hub balljoints is fairly

common on Minis and will be quite obvious
on inspection because the whole swivel hub
will appear to move in relation to the
suspension arms as the wheel is rocked. If
this is the case, the balljoints should be
adjusted, or if badly worn, renewed; these
procedures are contained in Chapter 10.

Suspension arm mountings

8 Check for wear of the lower arm inner

mounting bushes where the arm is bolted to
the subframe. If the bushes are worn, the arm
will appear to move in and out as the wheel is
rocked.
9 The upper arm inner roller bearings cannot
be inspected without partially dismantling the
suspension because the rubber cone spring
or displacer unit holds the arm in tension and
any wear will not be evident. It can be
removed for closer inspection if required as
described in Chapter 10; however, wear of the
upper arm and its bearings is uncommon.
10 With the brakes still firmly applied, try to
rotate the wheel back and forth. If any
movement is now felt, examine the tie-bar
between the lower suspension arm and
subframe for wear or deterioration of the
rubber bushes.

Rear suspension

11 To check the rear suspension for wear,
chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of
the car and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”).
12 Wear of the rear suspension components
can often be felt when driving the car as a
tendency for the rear of the vehicle to wander
over uneven road surfaces or when cornering.

To isolate the worn components, grasp the
roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock
positions and try to rock it. If any movement is
felt, it is likely to be in one of the following
areas:

Hub bearings

13 Continue rocking the wheel while an

assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement disappears or becomes less
pronounced, then the bearings in the rear hub
are at fault. The bearings should be renewed if
there is any appreciable movement whatsoever.

Radius arm bearings

14 With the footbrake still applied, continue

rocking the wheel and observe the front of the
radius arm. If it can be seen to move
appreciably up and down, then wear has
taken place in the roller or plain bearing in the
radius arm, or on the pivot shaft. If this is the
case, the radius arm should be removed for
overhaul as described in Chapter 10.

6 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check

1

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”), or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel
arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In
particular, examine the bottom of the side
sills, and any concealed areas where mud can
collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,
press and tap firmly on the panel with a
screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If

the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of
underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2 At the same time, inspect the treated lower
body panels for stone damage and general
condition.
3 Examine the subframes carefully,
particularly the side members of the rear
subframe. Corrosion here is a common
occurrence on Minis, particularly older
models, and is one of the main causes of
MOT test failure on these cars (see
illustration). Where corrosion has reached an
advanced stage, renewal of the subframe is
the only satisfactory cure.
4 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are
correctly supported in their clips. The battery
positive cable which runs under the car from
front to rear is a common problem area as it is
prone to damage or chafing if not properly
routed or secured.
5 Inspect the flexible brake hoses in the
vicinity of the backplates or front calipers,
where they are subjected to most movement
(see illustration). Bend them between the
fingers (but do not actually bend them double,
or the casing may be damaged) and check
that this does not reveal previously hidden
cracks, cuts or splits.

7 Exhaust system check

1

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours
after the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust system, from its starting
point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where
unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is not
available, raise and support the vehicle on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

1•10 Every 3000 miles or 3 months

6.3 Advanced state of corrosion on rear subframe side member 6.5 Inspect the flexible brake hoses in the vicinity of the
backplates

Wear in the rear hub bearings
can often be confirmed by
slowly turning the wheel with

your hand on the tyre. Worn
bearings usually exhibit a roughness
which can be felt as the wheel is turned.

2 Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type. Failure of the rear mounting
rubber blocks on the rear subframe is a
common problem - check these carefully (see
illustrations). Leakage at any of the joints or in
other parts of the system will usually show up
as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak.
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.

8 Fan belt check and renewal

2

Note: If the car is fitted with exhaust emission
control equipment it will first be necessary to
remove the air pump drivebelt as described in
Section 9 to allow access to the fan belt.

Check and adjustment

1 Release the three retaining lugs and remove
the engine ignition shield, if fitted. Rotate the
crankshaft so that the entire length of the fan
belt can be examined. On manual
transmission models, the engine can be
rotated quite easily by engaging top gear and
moving the car backwards or forwards to
allow the belt to be inspected. This should
only be done on level ground; and make sure
that the car cannot run away! An alternative

method, and the method that should be used
on automatic transmission models, is to press
the fan belt midway between the water pump
pulley and dynamo or alternator pulley and
then turn the fan blades.

2 Examine the belt for cracks, splitting,
fraying or damage. Check also for signs of
glazing (shiny patches) and for separation of
the belt plies. Renew the fan belt if worn or
damaged.
3 If the condition of the belt is satisfactory,
check the adjustment as follows.
4 It is most important to keep the fan belt
correctly adjusted; If the belt is too loose it will
slip and wear rapidly, resulting in inefficient
operation of the water pump and dynamo or
alternator. If it is too tight, it will impose
excessive strain on the bearings of the water
pump, dynamo or alternator causing
premature failure of these components.
5 The fan belt tension is correct when there
is 13 mm of fan belt deflection, using light
finger pressure, at a point midway between

the crankshaft and dynamo or alternator
pulleys.
6 To adjust the fan belt, slacken the mounting
bolts of the dynamo or alternator, and also the
nut on the adjusting arm located below the
water pump (see illustration). Now move the
unit either in or out until the correct tension is
obtained. It is easier if the adjusting arm nut is
only slackened a little so it requires some force
to move the dynamo or alternator. In this way
the tension of the belt can be arrived at more
quickly than by making frequent adjustments.
If difficulty is experienced in moving the
dynamo or alternator away from the engine, a
long spanner or bar placed behind the unit and
resting against the block serves as a very good
lever and can be held in position while the
adjusting and mounting bolts are fully
tightened. When levering on an alternator, only
lever on the drive end or damage may occur.
7 When the tension is correct, tighten the
adjusting arm nut first, followed by the
mounting bolts.

Renewal

8 To remove the fan belt, slacken the two
dynamo or alternator upper mountings and
the nut on the adjusting arm below the water
pump (see illustrations).

Every 3000 miles or 3 months 1•11

1

8.6 Dynamo adjusting arm nut located
below the water pump

7.2a Exhaust front mounting block . . . 7.2b . . . and rear mounting block on rear
subframe

8.8a Dynamo mountings and adjustment points

1 Adjustment arm retaining nuts
2 Securing nut and bolt (rear)

3 Securing nut and bolt (front)

When checking the exhaust,
pay particular attention to the
mounting on the transmission.

Movement of the engine
causes this mounting to work loose,
causing an annoying squeak or rattle
when accelerating and decelerating.

Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Section 33.

9 Push the dynamo or alternator toward the
engine and lift the old belt off the three
pulleys. Feed the belt over each fan blade in
turn and withdraw it from behind the fan
cowling at the special gap just below the top
hose (see illustration).
10 Fit the new belt over the fan blades in the
same way and then place it in position on the
three pulleys.
11 Adjust the fan belt tension as described
previously then refit the air pump drivebelt,
where applicable, as described in the
following Section. Note: After fitting a new fan

belt, check and if necessary readjust the
tension after 250 miles (400 km).

9 Air pump drivebelt check

and renewal

2

Check and adjustment

1 The checks and adjustment procedure for
the air pump drivebelt are basically the same
as described in Section 9 for the fan belt.
Adjust the tension of the drivebelt so that
there is 13 mm deflection of the belt, using
thumb pressure, at a point midway between
the two pulleys.

Renewal

2 Release the three retaining lugs and remove
the engine ignition shield, if fitted.
3 Undo and remove the two bolts securing
the radiator upper mounting bracket to the
radiator.

4 Unscrew the radiator filler cap and slacken
the top hose securing clips. Carefully ease the
radiator as far as possible toward the wing
valance. Place a container beneath the engine
to catch the small quantity of coolant that will
be lost as the top hose is released.

Warning: If the engine is hot,
take precautions against
scalding.

5 Slacken the air pump pivot and adjusting
link bolts, push the pump in toward the
engine, and slip the drivebelt off the two
pulleys.
6 Feed the belt between the fan blades and
the radiator cowling at the top as the blades
are rotated. Now pull the belt out from
between the fan and radiator.
7 Refitting the drivebelt is the reverse
sequence to removal, adjusting the tension as
described previously. Top up the cooling
system as described in “Weekly Checks” on
completion.

10 Clutch hydraulic check

1

1 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel, and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag.
2 Apply a few drops of light oil to the clutch
pedal pivot.
3 From within the engine compartment check
the condition of the fluid lines and hoses.

Check for signs of fluid leaks around the slave
cylinder rubber boot or from the feed pipe and
hose. Apply a few drops of oil to the clutch
operating lever clevis pin and the pivot on the
flywheel housing.

11 Seats and seat belt check

1

1 Check that the seats are securely attached
to the floor crossmember and that there is no
sign of corrosion anywhere near the
mountings. Check that the seats release and
then lock in place when the release
mechanism is operated.
2 Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
3 Check the seat belt mountings, ensuring
that all the bolts are securely tightened.

12 Headlight beam alignment

check

5

Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam
is only possible using optical beam-setting
equipment, and this work should therefore be
carried out by a Rover dealer or service
station with the necessary facilities.

Basic adjustments can be carried out in an
emergency, and further details are given in
Chapter 12.

1•12 Every 3000 miles or 3 months

8.8b Alternator mounting and adjustment points

1 Adjustment arm fixings
2 Securing nut and bolt (rear)

3 Securing nut and bolt (front)

8.9 The gap in the radiator shroud of early models (arrowed) to
allow removal and refitting of the fan belt

13 Engine/transmission oil and

filter renewal

2

1 Frequent oil changes are the best
preventive maintenance the home mechanic
can give the engine, because ageing oil
becomes diluted and contaminated, which
leads to premature engine wear.
2 Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure. You
should also have plenty of rags or newspapers
handy, for mopping up any spills. The oil
should preferably be changed when the
engine is still fully warmed-up to normal
operating temperature, just after a run; warm
oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Take
care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any
other hot parts of the engine when working
under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of
scalding, and to protect yourself from possible
skin irritants and other harmful contaminants
in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear
gloves when carrying out this work. Access to
the underside of the vehicle is greatly
improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist,
driven onto ramps, or supported by axle
stands. (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
Whichever method is chosen, make sure that
the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle,
that the drain point is at the lowest point.

Oil draining

3 Position the draining container under the
drain plug on the side of the transmission
casing, and unscrew the plug (see
illustration). If possible, try to keep the plug
pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by
hand the last couple of turns.

4 Allow the oil to drain into the container (see
Haynes Hint), and check the condition of the

plug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn or
damaged. Also wipe off any metal particles
that may have accumulated on the magnet.
5 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle;
when the oil has completely drained, wipe
clean the drain plug and its threads in the
transmission and refit the plug, tightening it to
the specified torque.

Oil filter renewal

6 The oil filter is located underneath the
dynamo or alternator on the forward-facing
side of the engine. On early manual
transmission models the filter is of the
disposable cartridge type contained within an
aluminium bowl. On later models a throwaway
canister is used. All automatic transmission
models utilise the cartridge type filter. To
renew the filter proceed as follows.

Cartridge type

7 Reposition the draining container under the

oil filter then undo and remove the long centre
bolt securing the bowl to the housing (see
illustration). On some models it may be
advantageous to remove the grille panel, as
space is rather limited.
8 With the bolts released, carefully lift away
the filter bowl, which contains the filters and
will also be full of oil.
9 Discard the old filter element but first make
sure that the metal pressure plate has not
stuck to the bottom of it. Now thoroughly
clean out the filter bowl, the bolt, and the
parts associated with it, using paraffin or a
suitable solvent (see illustration) Dry with a
lint free cloth
10 A rubber sealing ring is located in a
groove round the head of the filter housing
and forms an effective leak-proof joint
between the housing and the filter bowl. A
new rubber sealing ring is supplied with each
new filter element.
11 Carefully prise out the old sealing ring
from the locating groove. If the ring has
become hard and is difficult to move take

great care not to damage the sides of the
sealing ring groove.
12 With the old ring removed, fit the new ring
in the groove at four equidistant points and
press it home a segment at a time. Do not
insert the ring at just one point and work
round the groove pressing it home as, using
this method, it is easy to stretch the ring and
be left with a small loop of rubber which will
not fit into the locating groove (see

illustration).
13 Reassemble the oil filter assembly by first

passing up the bolt through the hole in the
bottom of the bowl, with a steel washer under
the bolt’s head and a rubber or felt washer on
top of the steel washer and next to the filter
bowl.
14 Slide the spring over the bolt followed by
the other steel washer, the remaining rubber
washer and finally the filter pressure plate
concave face downwards.
15 After fitting the new element to the bowl,
position the bowl on the rubber sealing ring
then insert and hand tighten the bolt. Before
finally tightening the centre bolt, ensure that
the lip of the filter bowl is resting squarely on
the rubber sealing ring and is not offset or
seated off the ring. If the bowl is not seating
properly, rotate it until it is. Run the engine
and check the bowl for leaks.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•13

1

13.3 Engine/transmission oil drain plug
(arrowed)

13.7 Cartridge type oil filter and retaining
bolt as seen from below

13.12 Fitting a new cartridge type oil filter
sealing ring

13.9 Components of the cartridge type oil
filter

Keep the drain plug pressed into the
sump while unscrewing it by hand the
last couple of turns. As the plug
releases, move it away sharply so the
stream of oil issuing from the sump
runs into the container, not up your
sleeve!

Canister type

16 Reposition the draining container under

the oil filter then, using a suitable filter removal
tool if necessary, slacken the canister initially,
then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way;
be prepared for some oil spillage (see
illustration). Empty the oil in the old canister
into the container.
17 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the
cylinder block around the filter housing.
Check the old canister to make sure that the
rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the filter
housing; if it has, carefully remove it.
18 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new canister. Screw
the canister into position on the housing until
it seats, then tighten it firmly by hand only - do

not use any tools.
19 Remove the old oil and all tools from

under the vehicle, then lower the vehicle to
the ground.

Oil filling

20 Remove the dipstick and the oil filler cap
from the engine. Fill the engine with oil, using
the correct grade and type of oil, (see
Specifications). Pour in half the specified
quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for
the oil to fall to the transmission casing. Take
care during this operation, particularly in cold
weather as it is all to easy to fill up the rocker
cover before the oil drains down into the
engine, with very messy results as it overflows
out of the filler neck. Continue adding oil a
small quantity at a time, until the level is up to
the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding
approximately 0.5 litres will raise the level to
the upper mark on the dipstick.
21 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning
light will take a few seconds to go out while
the new filter fills with oil; do not race the
engine while the light is on. Run the engine for
a few minutes, while checking for leaks
around the oil filter seal and the drain plug.
22 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the transmission
once more. With the new oil circulated and
the filter now completely full, recheck the level
on the dipstick, and add more oil as
necessary.
23 Dispose of the used engine oil safely and
in accordance with environmental regulations
(see “General repair procedures”).

14 Front brake wear check

1

Warning: The dust created by wear
of the shoes may contain asbestos,
which is a health hazard. Never

blow it out with compressed air,
and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering
mask should be worn when working on the
brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum­based solvents to clean brake parts; use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only.

Drum brake models

1 After high mileage the friction linings on the
brake shoes will have worn, and it will
therefore be necessary to fit replacement
shoes with new linings.
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the front roadwheels.
3 Slacken off the brake shoe adjuster(s) from
behind the backplate, and then undo and
remove the two brake drum retaining screws.
4 Remove the brake drum from the wheel
hub. If the drum is tight, gently tap its
circumference with a soft-faced mallet.
5 Brush and wipe away all traces of asbestos
dust from the brake shoes, wheel cylinders
and backplate, and also from the inner
circumference of the brake drum.
6 Inspect the friction material and renew the
brake shoes as described in Chapter 9 if they
have worn down to less than the specified
minimum thickness.
7 The brake shoes must also be renewed if
there is any sign of hydraulic fluid
contamination of the linings due to a leaking
brake wheel cylinder. If this is the case, the
cause of the leak must be traced and rectified
before fitting new brake shoes.
8 Brake shoes should always be renewed as
complete sets (four shoes to a set), otherwise
uneven braking and pulling to one side may
occur.
9 It is advisable to check that the brake wheel
cylinders are operating correctly before
proceeding further. To do this hold the brake
shoes in position using two screwdrivers while
an assistant very slowly depresses the brake
pedal slightly. Check that the wheel cylinder
pistons move out as the pedal is depressed,
and return when the pedal is released. If this is
not the case, it is quite likely that one of the
wheel cylinder pistons is seized and the cylinder
should therefore be renewed (Chapter 9).

10 Also check the condition of the brake
drum, If it is deeply scored on its inner
circumference it may be possible to have it
skimmed at an engineering works. If the
scoring is severe, renewal will be necessary

Disc brake models

11 Jack up the front or rear of the vehicle in
turn, and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”).
12 For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the roadwheels.
13 Look through the opening in the front of
the caliper, and check that the thickness of
the friction lining material on each of the pads
is not less than the recommended minimum
thickness given in the Specifications (see
Haynes Hint). If any one of the brake pads
has worn down to, or below, the specified
limit, all four pads must be renewed as a set
(ie all the front pads).

14 For a comprehensive check, the brake
pads should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the brake calipers can then be
checked, and the brake discs can be fully
examined. Refer to Chapter 9 for details.

15 Driveshaft gaiter check

1

With the vehicle raised and securely
supported on stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”), turn the steering onto full
lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.
Inspect the condition of the outer constant
velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing
the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for
signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the
rubber, which may allow the grease to
escape, and lead to water and grit entry into
the joint. Also check the security and
condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these
checks on the inner CV joints where offset
sphere type joints are fitted. If any damage or
deterioration is found, the gaiters should be
renewed as described in Chapter 8.

At the same time, check the general condition
of the CV joints themselves by first holding the

1•14 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

13.16 Canister type oil filter

1 Housing
2 Sealing ring

3 Filter

Look through the opening in the caliper
and check the thickness of the friction
lining material on the brake pads

driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel.
Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and
attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any
appreciable movement indicates wear in the
joints, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose
driveshaft retaining nut.

16 Steering and suspension

lubrication

1

1 Unlike most modern cars, there are a number
of steering and suspension joints on the Mini
which require regular attention. Provision for
lubrication of these joints is by means of a
grease nipple, to which a grease gun can be
engaged. The grease nipples are located in the
following areas (see illustrations):

a) Steering swivel hub; two nipples, one

upper and one lower on each side.

b) Upper suspension arm inner pivot; one

nipple on each arm.

c) Rear radius arm pivot; one nipple on each

pivot. Remove the rubber blanking plug to
expose the nipple on early models.

2 When lubricating the front grease nipples it
is preferable to raise the front of the car and
support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”) so that the load is taken off
the suspension. This will allow the grease to
penetrate into the joints more effectively. The
rear radius arm pivots can be lubricated with
the car on its roadwheels if wished.
3 With the car raised and suitably supported,
wipe clean the area all round the grease
nipple and the nipple itself. Engage the head
of a grease gun, filled with the specified
grease, squarely onto the nipple, keeping it
pushed fully home. Operate the gun until
grease can be seen to appear from under the
dust cover over the joint or from around the
side of the pivot bushes.
4 When lubricating the rear radius arm pivots, a
generous amount of grease will be needed each
side, quite a bit more than was required for the
front suspension joints. It probably won’t be
possible to tell when sufficient has been
applied, unless you look underneath at the inner
attachment on the subframe, it may be possible
to see it appear around the inner pivot; add a bit
more if in doubt .This is a vitally important area
on the Mini and it must be well lubricated.

5 Although not actually part of the steering
and suspension, the handbrake cable guides
and the moving sectors on the rear subframe
should be lubricated at this time to ensure
smooth operation. There are no grease
nipples, so the grease should be applied with
a wooden spatula or similar tool to lubricate
these areas thoroughly.

17 Rear brake wear check

1

The procedure for checking the rear brake
components is the same as described in
Section 14 for models with drum brakes.

18 Underbonnet check for fluid

leaks and hose condition

1

General

1 High temperatures in the engine
compartment can cause the deterioration of
the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine,
accessory and emission systems operation.
Periodic inspection should be made for
cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and
leaks.
2 Carefully check the large top and bottom
radiator hoses, along with the other smaller­diameter cooling system hoses and metal
pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes
which run from the engine to the bulkhead.
Inspect each hose along its entire length,
replacing any that are cracked, swollen or
shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may
become more apparent if the hose is
squeezed (see Haynes Hint).
3 Make sure that all hose connections are
tight. If the spring clamps that are used to
secure some of the hoses appear to be
slackening, they should be renewed to
prevent the possibility of leaks.
4 Some other hoses are secured to their
fittings with screw type clips. Where screw
type clips are used, check to be sure they
haven’t slackened, allowing the hose to leak.
If clamps or screw type clips aren’t used,

make sure the hose has not expanded and/or
hardened where it slips over the fitting,
allowing it to leak.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of
leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid or coolant. If the vehicle is
regularly parked in the same place, close
inspection of the ground underneath it will
soon show any leaks. As soon as a leak is
detected, its source must be traced and
rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some
time, it is usually necessary to use a steam
cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean
away the accumulated dirt, so that the exact
source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to
be numbered or colour-coded, or to be
identified by coloured stripes moulded into
them. Various systems require hoses with
different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance
and temperature resistance. When renewing
hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the
same material.
7 Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the check.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•15

1

16.1a Lubricating the swivel hub upper
grease nipple . . .

16.1b . . . the upper suspension arm inner
pivot grease nipple . . .

16.1c . . . and the rear radius arm pivot
grease nipple

A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white or rust coloured
deposits on the area adjoining the leak

Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the
hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,
which could cause leakage.
9 A small piece of vacuum hose can be used
as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks.
Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and
probe around vacuum hoses and fittings,
listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic
of a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the
vacuum hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine

components such as the fan or fan belt.

Fuel hoses

Warning: Before carrying out the
following operation, refer to the
precautions given in “Safety

first!” at the beginning of this
manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.

10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
carburettor.
11 Spring-type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all spring­type clamps with screw clips whenever a hose
is replaced.

Metal lines

12 Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel tank, filter and
the engine. Check carefully to be sure the
piping has not been bent or crimped, and that
cracks have not started in the line.
13 If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration.
14 Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder for cracks in the
lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid
leakage calls for an immediate and thorough
inspection of the brake system.

19 Fuel system components,

checks and lubrication

1

1 Sparingly apply a few drops of light oil to the
throttle spindles, accelerator cable and the
pedal pivot. Similarly lubricate the exposed
ends of the choke cable (where fitted).
2 Check that there is a small amount of
slackness in the cable so that the throttle linkage
closes fully with the accelerator pedal released.
Also check that full throttle can be obtained with
the accelerator pedal fully depressed.
3 If there is any doubt about the cable
adjustment, refer to the relevant Parts of

Chapter 4 for the full adjustment procedure.
4 On carburettor models, unscrew the piston
damper cap from the top of the carburettor
dashpot (see illustration) . Top up the damper
with engine oil until the level is 13.0 mm above
the top of the hollow piston rod.
5 Slowly push the damper back into the
piston and screw on the cap taking care not
to cross-thread it.

20 Contact breaker points

check and adjustment

3

Refer to Chapter 5B.

21 Distributor lubrication

1

1 It is important that the distributor cam is
lightly lubricated with general purpose grease,
and that the contact breaker arm, centrifugal
advance weights and cam spindle are also
very lightly lubricated.
2 Great care should be taken not to use too
much lubricant, as any excess that might find
its way onto the contact breaker points could
cause burning and misfiring.
3 If an ignition shield is fitted over the front of
the engine, release the three plastic retaining
lugs and lift away the shield. Detach the two
spring clips or undo the two screws securing
the distributor cap to the distributor body and
lift off the cap.
4 To gain access to the cam spindle, lift away
the rotor arm. Drop no more than two drops of

engine oil onto the felt pad or screw head (see
illustration). This will run down the spindle
when the engine is hot and lubricate the
bearings. The centrifugal advance weights
can be lubricated by dropping two or three
drops of engine oil through one of the holes or
slots in the distributor baseplate. No more
than one drop of oil should be applied to the
contact breaker arm pivot post.
5 Refit the rotor arm, distributor cap and
ignition shield on completion.

22 Clutch return stop

adjustment

1

Note: As friction linings of the clutch disc wear,
the distance between the clutch release bearing
and the clutch thrust plate will decrease. The
pressure plate will then move in closer to the
clutch disc to compensate for wear. Unless the
wear is taken up by adjustment of the stop
located between the flywheel housing and the

1•16 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

19.4 Top up the piston damper on
carburettor models

21.4 Distributor lubrication points

1 Contact breaker cam
2 Contact breaker pivot post

3 Centrifugal weights lubrication point
4 Cam spindle

operating lever, the clutch will start to slip. On
later models fitted with the verto type clutch, the
assembly is self-adjusting and the following
procedure will not be necessary.

1 To carry out the adjustment, first disconnect
the clutch operating lever return spring.
2 Pull the operating lever away from the
engine until all the free play is eliminated.
3 Hold the lever in this position and measure
the gap between the lever and the head of the
stop using feeler blades (see illustration).
4 If necessary, slacken the locknut and adjust
the stop bolt until the specified gap is
achieved. Then tighten the locknut.

23 Dynamo check and

lubrication

1

Dynamo checks and lubrication consist
simply of checking the fan belt condition and
tension (Section 8) and adding a few drops of
engine oil to the dynamo rear bearing
lubricating hole.

24 Control box cleaning and

inspection

1

On dynamo equipped models, remove the
control box cover and check the cut-out and
regulator contacts. If they are dirty or rough or
burnt, place a piece of fine glasspaper (do not
use emery paper or carborundum paper)
between the cut-out contacts, close them
manually, and draw the glasspaper through
several times.

Clean the regulator contacts in exactly the
same way, but use emery or carborundum
paper and not glasspaper. Carefully clean
both sets of contacts from all traces of dust
with a rag moistened in methylated spirit. Refit
the cover on completion.

25 Ignition timing check and

adjustment

3

Refer to Chapter 5B.

26 Carburettor idle speed and

mixture adjustment

3

Refer to Chapter 4A.

27 Door, boot and bonnet

check and lubrication

1

1 Check that the doors, bonnet and boot lid
close securely. Check that the bonnet safety

catch operates correctly. Check the operation
of the door check straps.
2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,
the striker plates and the bonnet catch
sparingly with a little oil or grease.
3 If any of the doors, bonnet or boot lid do not
close effectively or appear not to be flush with
the surrounding panels, carry out the adjustment
procedures contained in Chapter 11.

28 Bodywork, paint and exterior

trim check

1

1 The best time to carry out this check is after
the car has been washed so that any surface
blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and
not hidden by a film of dirt.
2 Starting at one front corner check the
paintwork all around the car, looking for minor
scratches or more serious dents. Check all
the trim and make sure that it is securely
attached over its entire length.
3 Check the security of all door locks, door
mirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille and
wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of
further attention should be done with reference
to the relevant Chapters of this manual.
4 Rectify any problems noticed with the
paintwork or body panels (see Chapter 11).

29 Road test

1

Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock when braking hard.
2 Check that there is no vibration through the
steering when braking.
3 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
4 With the engine switched off, test the
operation of the brake servo unit (where fitted)

as follows. Depress the footbrake four or five
times to exhaust the vacuum, then start the
engine. As the engine starts, there should be a
noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum
builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least
two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake
pedal is now depressed again, it should be
possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the
pedal is depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing should be heard,
and the pedal should feel considerably harder.

Steering and suspension

5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
7 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

8 Check the performance of the engine,
transmission and driveline.
9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both
when cold and when hot.
10 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine and transmission.
11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
12 On manual transmission models, check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
13 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the drive seems smooth without
jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest.

Clutch

14 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel, and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is
uneven or stiff in places, check the system
components with reference to Chapter 6.

Instruments and electrical
equipment

15 Check the operation of all instruments
and electrical equipment.
16 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn, to check that it functions
properly.
17 Test the operation of the brake failure
warning system (where fitted) by pressing the
test switch located next to the heated rear
window switch. When pressed, the switch
should light and go out when released.
18 If the light should come on when driving,
the brake fluid level should be checked (and
topped up, if necessary), as soon as possible.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•17

1

22.3 Using feeler blades to measure the
clutch return stop clearance

30.13b Lift off the lid and remove the
element

30 Air cleaner element renewal

1

Carburettor models except
Cooper S

1 On models with an air intake duct over the
top of the engine, unscrew the two nuts
securing the duct to the rocker cover studs.
Release the clip and disconnect the duct from
the air cleaner body.
2 Undo and remove the single wing nut and
washer on early models, or the twin wing bolts
and washers on later models, securing the air
cleaner to the carburettor
3 If the air cleaner is retained by a single wing
nut lift off the air cleaner top cover. Detach the
rocker cover hose, then lift the air cleaner
body off the carburettor, tip it up at the front
and slide it sideways until it is clear of the long
retaining stud and can be lifted away. Recover
the sealing ring.
4 If the air cleaner is retained by two wing
nuts, detach the hot air duct (where fitted) and
then lift the air cleaner body off the
carburettor.
5 With the air cleaner removed from the
engine, recover the rubber sealing ring if it
stayed behind on the carburettor flange.
6 Lift off the air cleaner cover and withdraw
the paper element. On the later type moulded
plastic air cleaners the cover is removed by
prising it off with a screwdriver inserted in the
slots on the periphery of the cover (see

illustrations).
7 Thoroughly clean the inside of the air

cleaner body.
8 Refit the air cleaner and element using a
reverse of the removal procedure. Make sure
that where an alignment arrow is stamped on
the top cover, it is pointing toward the
location lug on the air cleaner body (see
illustration). Ensure also that the rubber
sealing ring is in position before refitting the
air cleaner.
9 If the air cleaner body incorporates an
adjustable air intake spout, this should be
positioned adjacent to the exhaust manifold in
winter and away from it in summer.

Cooper S carburettor models

10 Undo and remove the two wing bolts and
washers and lift off the air cleaner top cover.
Lift out the paper elements and thoroughly
clean the inside of the air cleaner body.
11 The air cleaner body may be removed if
necessary after disconnecting the engine
breather pipe and the throttle return spring.
Take care not to lose the two rubber sealing
washers from the carburettor flanges.
12 Refitting the air cleaner and elements is
the reverse of the removal procedure.

Fuel injection models

13 Release the four retaining clips, then
slacken and remove the three screws
securing the air cleaner assembly to the
throttle body, and lift off the air cleaner lid.
Remove the filter element (see illustrations).
14 Wipe the body of the air cleaner clean,
then fit the new element, ensuring that it is
correctly seated.
15 Refit the air cleaner lid, and secure it in
position with the retaining screws (tightening
them securely) and clips.

31 Valve clearance adjustment

2

Refer to Chapter 2A.

32 Distributor cap, rotor arm

and HT lead check

1

Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system are
considerably higher than those

produced by conventional
ignition systems. Extreme care must be
taken when working on the system if the
ignition is switched on. Persons with
surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep well clear of the
ignition circuits, components and test
equipment.

1 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up
the firing order, which is essential for proper
engine operation. Gain access to the leads
and disconnect them as described for the
spark plug check and renewal.
2 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which
will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this
off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if
cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly
corroded to be fit for further use, the lead
must be renewed. Push the lead and boot
back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot
should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it
doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers
carefully to crimp the metal connector inside
the boot until the fit is snug.
3 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of
the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease.

1•18 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

30.6b . . . and lift out the element30.6a Prise off the later type air cleaner

moulded plastic cover . . .

30.8 Make sure the alignment arrow is
toward the lug on the air cleaner body

30.13a On fuel injection models, release
the clips (three arrowed) and remove the

screws

Once the lead is clean, check for burns,
cracks and other damage. Do not bend the
lead sharply, because the conductor might
break.
4 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT)
leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened
at the distributor cap and spark plug when the
check is complete. If any sign of arcing,
severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or
other damage is noticed, obtain new spark
plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set.

5 Spring back the retaining clips or undo the
two screws and remove the distributor cap.
Thoroughly clean it inside and out with a dry
lint-free rag.
6 Examine the HT lead segments inside the
cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted
renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush
in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free
to move and stands proud of its holder. Make
sure that there are no signs of cracks or black
“tracking” lines running down the inside of the
cap, which will also mean renewal if evident.
7 Inspect the rotor arm checking it for
security and also for signs of deterioration as
described above.

8 Refit the distributor cap on completion.

33 Spark plug renewal

1

1 It is vital for the correct running, full
performance and proper economy of the
engine that the spark plugs perform with
maximum efficiency. The most important
factor in ensuring this, is that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine (a suitable type
is specified at the end of this Chapter). If this
type is used and the engine is in good
condition, the spark plugs should not need
attention between scheduled renewal
intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely

necessary, and should not be attempted
unless specialised equipment is available, as
damage can easily be caused to the firing
ends.
2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a
spark plug socket, with an extension which
can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar.
This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to
protect the porcelain insulator of the spark
plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it
into the spark plug hole. You will also need a
wire-type feeler gauge, to check and adjust
the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque
wrench to tighten the new plugs to the
specified torque.
3 To remove the spark plugs, open the
bonnet, where fitted, release the three plastic
retaining lugs and lift the ignition shield off the
front of the engine
4 If the marks on the original-equipment HT
leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4,
to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves.
5 Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping
the rubber boot, not the lead, otherwise the
lead connection may be fractured (see

illustration).
6 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the

socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if
the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the
porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If
any undue difficulty is encountered when
unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully
check the cylinder head threads and sealing
surfaces for signs of wear, excessive
corrosion or damage; if any of these
conditions is found, seek the advice of a
dealer as to the best method of repair.
7 As each plug is removed, examine it as
follows - this will give a good indication of the
condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of
the spark plug is clean and white, with no
deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture.
8 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
9 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is

correct, and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
10 The spark plug electrode gap is of
considerable importance as, if it is too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap
should be set to the value given in the
Specifications.
11 To set the electrode gap, measure the
gap with a feeler blade or adjusting tool, and
then bend open, or closed, the outer plug
electrode until the correct gap is achieved
(see illustration). The centre electrode should
never be bent, as this may crack the insulation
and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If the
outer electrode is not exactly over the centre
electrode, bend it gently to align them.
12 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves at the top of
the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior
surfaces and threads are clean (see Haynes

Hint).
13 On installing the spark plugs, first check

that the cylinder head thread and sealing
surface are as clean as possible; use a clean
rag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipe
clean the sealing surface. Ensure that the
spark plug threads are clean and dry then
screw them in by hand where possible. Take
extra care to enter the plug threads correctly.
14 When each spark plug is started correctly
on its threads, screw it down until it just seats
lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting.
15 Reconnect the HT leads in their correct
order, using a twisting motion on the boot
until it is firmly seated. Finally, refit the ignition
shield.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•19

1

33.5 Pull the leads off the spark plugs by
gripping the rubber boot

33.11 Adjusting a spark plug electrode
gap

It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without cross­threading them. To avoid this
possibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inch
internal diameter rubber hose over the
end of the spark plug. The flexible hose
acts as a universal joint to help align
the plug with the plug hole. Should the
plug begin to cross-thread, the hose
will slip on the spark plug, preventing
thread damage to the aluminium
cylinder head

If new spark plug leads are
to be fitted, remove the
leads one at a time and fit
each new lead in exactly the

same position as the old one.

34 Emission control equipment

check

1

1 Of the emission control systems that may
be fitted, only the air pump drivebelt (where

applicable), the crankcase ventilation system
and the evaporative emission control systems
require regular checking, and even then, the
components of these systems require minimal
attention.
2 Checks and adjustment of the air pump
drivebelt are contained in Section 9.
3 The crankcase ventilation system filter in

the oil filler cap should be renewed by simply
renewing the cap (the new cap is supplied
with filter inside). Checks of the other system
components are contained in Chapter 4C.
4 Should it be felt that the other systems are
not functioning correctly, the advice of a
dealer should be sought.

35 Coolant renewal

2

Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure. Do not allow

antifreeze to come into contact
with your skin, or with painted surfaces of
the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container, or in a
puddle in the driveway or on the garage
floor. Children and pets are attracted by its
sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if
ingested.

Note: If coolant to Rover specification, in the
correct ratio, has been continuously
maintained in the system, then coolant
renewal will not normally be necessary.
However, to be absolutely sure about the
integrity of the antifreeze and anti-corrosion
properties of the coolant, periodic renewal is
to be recommended.

Cooling system draining

1 To drain the system, first remove the
expansion tank filler cap (see “Weekly
checks”). Move the heater temperature
control to the hot position.

2 If there is anti-freeze in the system, place
clean bowls beneath the radiator and at the rear
of the engine to collect the coolant for re-use.
3 Undo and remove the radiator drain plug
and cylinder block drain plug, and allow the
coolant to drain. If fitted, the radiator drain
plug is located at the bottom of the radiator
nearest the grille, and the cylinder block drain
plug (if fitted) can be found at the rear of the
block, beneath the engine tie-bar (see

illustration).
4 On later models the radiator does not

incorporate a drain plug, and it is therefore
necessary to detach the bottom hose to drain
the coolant. To do this slacken the bottom
hose retaining clip and pull the hose off the
radiator outlet. The hose clip is very
inaccessible and a long thin screwdriver is
quite useful here. If the hose proves difficult to
remove from the radiator outlet, it is possible
to gently push it off from the access hole
under the wheel arch.
5 When the coolant has stopped running,
probe the orifices, particularly the cylinder
block orifice, with a short piece of wire to
dislodge any particles of rust or sediment
which may be preventing the coolant from
completely draining out.

Cooling system flushing

6 With time, the cooling system may

gradually lose its efficiency if the radiator core
becomes choked with rust, scale deposits
from the water, and other sediment. This is
especially likely if an inferior grade of
antifreeze has been used that has not been
regularly renewed. To minimise this, as well as
using only the specified type of antifreeze and
clean soft water, the system should be
flushed as follows whenever any part of it is
disturbed, and/or when the coolant is
renewed.
7 With the coolant drained, close the drain
taps and refill the system with fresh water.
Refit the radiator cap, start the engine and
warm it up to normal operating temperature,
then stop it and (after allowing it to cool down
completely) drain the system again. Repeat as
necessary until only clean water can be seen
to emerge, then refill finally with the specified
coolant mixture.
8 If only clean, soft water and good-quality
antifreeze has been used, and the coolant has
been renewed at the specified intervals, the
above procedure will be sufficient to keep the
system clean for a considerable length of
time. If, however, the system has been
neglected, a more thorough operation will be
required, as follows.
9 To flush the system first drain the coolant
as described in the previous Section. Place a
garden hose in the radiator filler cap neck and
allow water to run through the system for ten
to fifteen minutes.
10 To flush the engine, remove the
thermostat (see Chapter 3), insert the garden
hose into the thermostat housing, and allow
water to circulate until it runs clear from the
bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, the
water still does not run clear, the radiator
should be flushed with a good proprietary
cleaning agent.
11 In severe cases of contamination,
reverse-flushing of the radiator may be
necessary. To do this, remove the radiator
(see Chapter 3), invert it, and insert the garden
hose into the bottom outlet. Continue flushing
until clear water runs from the top hose outlet.
A similar procedure can be used to flush the
heater matrix.
12 The use of chemical cleaners should be
necessary only as a last resort. Normally,
regular renewal of the coolant will prevent
excessive contamination of the system.

1•20 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

Every 24 000 miles or 24 months

35.3 Cylinder block coolant drain tap or plug location (arrowed)

Cooling system filling

13 Refit the cylinder block and radiator drain
plugs or bottom hose connection as
applicable.
14 Prepare a sufficient quantity of coolant
mixture (water and antifreeze), in the specified
concentration, to allow for a surplus, so as to
have a reserve supply for topping-up. Note:

On models with no cylinder block drain plug, it
is not possible to fully drain the coolant. To

establish a suitable antifreeze concentration it
will be necessary to pour adequate antifreeze
directly into the radiator and then top-up with
water. Subsequent topping-up should be
done with an antifreeze/water mixture.
15 Set the heater control knob to the
maximum heat position and then fill the
cooling system slowly. Slow filling reduces the
possibility of air being trapped and forming
air-locks. It helps also, if the large radiator
hoses are gently squeezed during the filling
procedure.
16 Do not fill the system higher than within 12
mm of the filler orifice. Overfilling will merely
result in coolant loss down the overflow pipe
due to expansion.
17 When the system is full, refit the filler cap
and turn it firmly clockwise to lock it in
position. Start the engine and run it at idle
speed, until it has warmed-up to normal
operating temperature.
18 Stop the engine, allow it to cool down
completely (overnight, if possible), then
remove the radiator filler cap and top-up if
necessary. Refit the filler cap, tightening it
securely, and wash off any spilt coolant from
the engine compartment and bodywork.
19 After refilling, always check carefully all
components of the system (but especially any
unions disturbed during draining and flushing)
for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has
a searching action, which will rapidly expose
any weak points in the system.

36 Brake fluid renewal

3

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use

extreme caution when handling
and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has
been standing open for some time as it
absorbs moisture from the air. Excess
moisture can cause a dangerous loss of
braking effectiveness.

The procedure is similar to that for the
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied by siphoning,
and allowance should be made for the old
fluid to be removed from the circuit when
bleeding a section of the circuit.

37 Fuel filter renewal (fuel

injection models)

3

Warning: Before carrying out the
following operation, refer to the
precautions given in “Safety

first!” at the beginning of this
manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Chock the front wheels then jack up the

rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

3 To minimise fuel loss during the following
operation, working inside the luggage
compartment, remove the top stud, then pivot
the fuel tank trim panel downwards and fit a
hose clamp to the fuel tank feed hose.
4 Refer to the information on fuel system
depressurisation contained in Chapter 4B,
Section 6.
5 From underneath the vehicle, slacken the
union nuts and disconnect the inlet and outlet
pipes from the fuel filter, whilst retaining the
union adapter/filter with an open-ended
spanner (see illustrations).
6 Remove the two bolts securing the filter
mounting bracket to the subframe, and
remove the filter assembly from the car.
7 Slacken and remove the outlet pipe adapter
and O-ring from the filter, then slacken the
clamp bolt and slide the filter out of the
mounting bracket, noting which way the arrow
stamped on the filter is pointing.
8 Remove the plugs from the filter, then fit the
outlet pipe adapter (using a new O-ring), and
tighten it securely. Ensuring that the arrow is
pointing in the direction of the flow of fuel,
slide the filter into position in the mounting
bracket, and securely tighten the clamp bolt.
9 Refit the filter assembly to the car,
tightening its mounting bolts securely.
10 Refit the inlet and outlet pipes to the filter,
and securely tighten their union nuts.
11 Lower the car to the ground, then remove
the clamp from the fuel tank feed hose, and
secure the trim panel in position with its
retaining stud. Reconnect the battery, then
start the engine and check the filter unions for
leakage.

Warning: Dispose of the old filter
safely; it will be highly
flammable and may explode if
thrown on a fire.

Every 24 000 miles or 24 months 1•21

1

37.5a Fuel filter inlet union “A”, outlet union “B” and mounting
bracket retaining bolts “C”

37.5b Slacken the union nuts whilst retaining the union
adapter/filter with an open-ended spanner

Old hydraulic fluid is
invariably much darker in
colour than the new, making
it easy to distinguish between
the two.

2A

Chapter 2 Part A:

Engine in-car repair procedures

Engine general

Code and displacement:

85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 848 cc

99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 998 cc

10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1098 cc

12H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 cc

12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 cc

Bore:

85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62.94 mm

99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.59 mm

10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.59 mm

12H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70.61 mm

12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70.61 mm

Stroke:

85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.25 mm

99H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.20 mm

10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.72 mm

12H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.28 mm

12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.28 mm

Compression ratio:

85H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.3:1

99H:

Pre-1983 manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.3:1

1983 to 1987 manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3:1

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.9:1

1988-on (category C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.6:1

1989-on (low compression) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.3:1

1989-on (high compression) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.6:1

10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5:1

12H:

1275 GT models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.8:1

Cooper S Mk III models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.75:1

12A:

Cooper models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0:1

All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4:1

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (viewed from left-hand side of vehicle)

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder next to radiator)

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Cylinder head (carburettor engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . 7

Cylinder head (fuel injection engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . 8

Distributor driveshaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”

Engine/transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Flywheel (manual transmission models) - removal and refitting . . . . 10

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Oil cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Oil filter housing and delivery pipe - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 15

Oil pressure relief valve - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . 14

Rocker shaft assembly - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . 6

Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston - locating . . . . . . . . . 3

Torque converter (automatic transmission models) - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Valve clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

Valve clearances

Inlet and exhaust (engine cold):

All engine types except 12A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm

12A engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.33 to 0.38 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Cylinder head nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50

Rocker shaft pedestal nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 75

Camshaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 65

Torque converter centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 112

Torque converter (six central bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 21

Timing cover and front plate:

1

⁄4 in UNF bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

5

⁄16 in UNF bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Rocker cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.7 3.5

Engine mountings:

3

⁄8 in UNC bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

M12 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 53

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 describes those
repair procedures that can reasonably be
carried out on the engine while it remains in
the car. If the engine has been removed from
the car and is being dismantled as described
in Part B, any preliminary dismantling
procedures can be ignored.

Part B describes the removal of the
engine/transmission from the vehicle, and the
full overhaul procedures that can then be
carried out.

Engine description

The Mini engine is a four-cylinder, water­cooled, overhead valve type of 848, 998,
1098, or 1275 cc displacement, depending on
model and year of manufacture. The engine is
bolted to the transmission assembly, which
also forms the engine sump, and the
complete power unit is supported, via rubber
mountings, in the front subframe.

The cast iron cylinder head contains two
valves per cylinder, mounted vertically and
running in pressed-in valve guides. The valves
are operated by rocker arms and pushrods via
tubular cam followers from the camshaft,
located in the left-hand side of the cylinder
block.

The inlet and exhaust manifolds are
attached to the left-hand side of the cylinder
head and are linked to the valves via five inlet
and exhaust ports of siamese configuration.

The pistons are of anodised aluminium alloy
with three compression rings and an oil control
ring on all engines except later 1275 cc units.
These engines only have two compression
rings. The gudgeon pin is retained in the small­end of the connecting rod by a pinch-bolt on
848 cc engines, by circlips on 1098 cc and
early 998 cc engines and by an interference fit

in the connecting rod small-end bore on 1275
cc and later 998 cc engines. At the other end
of the connecting rod, renewable big-end shell
bearings are fitted.

At the front of the engine, a single row chain
drives the camshaft via the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets. On 1275 cc Cooper S
models a duplex (twin row) timing chain is
fitted. On the 848 cc engine, the camshaft is
supported by three bearings, two being bored
directly in the cylinder block while a white
metal bearing (which is renewable) is fitted at
the timing chain end. On the 998 cc, 1098 cc
and 1275 cc units three steel-backed metal
camshaft bearings are fitted.

The statically and dynamically balanced
forged steel crankshaft is supported by three
renewable shell type main bearings.
Crankshaft endfloat is controlled by four semi­circular thrustwashers located in pairs on
either side of the centre main bearing.

A forced feed system of lubrication is used,
with oil circulated round the engine from the
transmission casing/sump. The level of engine
oil in the sump is indicated on the dipstick,
which is fitted on the right-hand side of the
engine. The oil in the transmission casing/
sump is also used to lubricate the transmission
and differential.

The oil pump is mounted at the end of the
cylinder block and is driven by the camshaft.

Oil is drawn from the sump through a gauze
screen in the oil strainer and is sucked up the
pick-up pipe and drawn into the oil pump.
From the oil pump it is forced under pressure
along a gallery on the right-hand side of the
engine, and through drillings to the big-end,
main and camshaft bearings. A small hole in
each connecting rod allows a jet of oil to
lubricate the cylinder wall with each revolution.

From the camshaft front bearing, oil is fed
through drilled passages in the cylinder block
and head to the front rocker pedestal where it
enters the hollow rocker shaft. Holes drilled in
the shaft allow for the lubrication of the rocker
arms, and the valve stems and pushrod ends.

This oil is at a reduced pressure to the oil
delivered to the crankshaft bearings. Oil from
the front camshaft bearing also lubricates the
timing chain. Oil returns to the sump by various
passages the tappets being lubricated by oil
returning via the pushrod drillings in the block.

On all models a full-flow oil filter is fitted,
and all oil passes through this filter before it
reaches the main oil gallery. The oil is passed
directly from the oil pump across the block to
an external pipe on the right-hand side of the
engine which feeds into the filter head.
Cooper S and certain later 1275 cc models
are fitted with an oil cooler.

The water pump and fan are driven together
with the dynamo or alternator by a V-belt from
the crankshaft pulley.

Both the distributor and oil pump are driven
off the camshaft: the distributor via skew gears
on the right-hand side, and the oil pump via a
slotted drive or splined coupling from the rear.

Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:

a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Valve clearances - adjustment.
c) Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets -

removal and refitting.

d) Rocker shaft assembly - removal and

refitting

e) Cylinder head and valve gear - removal

and refitting.

f) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising.
g) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
h) Flywheel/torque converter - removal and

refitting.
i) Engine mountings - renewal.
j) Oil pressure relief valve - removal,

inspection and refitting.
k) Oil filter housing and delivery pipe -

removal and refitting.
l) Oil cooler - removal and refitting

2A•2 Engine in-car repair procedures

2 Compression test -

description and interpretation

2

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the battery
must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs
must be removed (Chapter 1). The aid of an
assistant will also be required.
3 Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the ignition coil HT lead from
the distributor cap and earthing it on the
cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar
wire to make a good connection.
4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open, and crank the engine on the starter
motor; after one or two revolutions, the
compression pressure should build up to a
maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record
the highest reading obtained.
6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure in each.
7 All cylinders should produce very similar
pressures; a difference of more than 2 bars
between any two cylinders indicates a fault.
Note that the compression should build up
quickly in a healthy engine; low compression
on the first stroke, followed by gradually­increasing pressure on successive strokes,
indicates worn piston rings. A low
compression reading on the first stroke, which
does not build up during successive strokes,

indicates leaking valves or a blown head
gasket (a cracked head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
8 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carry
out the following test to isolate the cause.
Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that
cylinder through its spark plug hole, and
repeat the test.
9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear is responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
having blown between them; the presence of
coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.
11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the others and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the
cause.

12 If the compression reading is unusually
high, the combustion chambers are probably
coated with carbon deposits. If this is the
case, the cylinder head should be removed
and decarbonised.
13 On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the ignition coil HT lead.

3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

number one piston - locating

1

1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
in the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
refers to the position of No 1 piston at the end
of its compression stroke. On the engines
covered by this manual, No 1 piston is at the
timing chain end of the engine. It is necessary
to set the engine in this position when
carrying out many of the operations in this
Chapter. To do so, proceed as follows.
2 Where fitted, release the three plastic
retaining lugs and lift the ignition shield off the
front of the engine.
3 Spring back the two distributor cap
retaining clips or undo the screws then place
the distributor cap to one side.
4 Gain access to the ignition timing marks by
undoing the two bolts securing the inspection
plate to the top of the flywheel housing and
lifting off the plate. On automatic transmission
models, withdraw the rubber grommet from
the top of the converter housing (see
illustrations). On later models there is a
timing scale on the timing cover, together with
a notch or pointer on the crankshaft pulley

(see illustration).
5 Turn the engine over until No 1 piston is

approaching TDC on the compression stroke.

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

2A

3.4a Timing mark locations - early manual transmission models

1 Inspection cover 2 Timing marks 3 Pointer A Detail showing alternative

timing marks

B Insert screwdriver to turn

torque converter

3.4b Timing mark locations - automatic transmission models

3.4c Timing scale on timing cover of later
manual transmission models

This can be checked by removing No 1 spark
plug and feeling the pressure being developed
in the cylinder as the piston rises, or by
removing the rocker cover and noting when the
valves of No 4 cylinder are rocking, ie the inlet
valve just opening and the exhaust valve just
closing. On manual transmission models, the
engine can be turned over quite easily by
engaging top gear and moving the car
forwards. This should only be done on level
ground; and make sure that the car cannot run
away! An alternative method, and the method
that should be used on automatic transmission
models, is to press the fan belt midway
between the water pump pulley and dynamo or
alternator pulley and then turn the fan blades.
Fine positioning of the torque converter can be
done by inserting a screwdriver through the
access hole and turning the ring gear.

6 Continue turning the engine, in the correct
direction of rotation, until No 1 piston is at
TDC on the compression stroke. Verify this by
checking that the timing marks are aligned.
The timing marks on the flywheel (or torque
converter), and the pointer on the housing,
can be viewed through the inspection
aperture using a small mirror. The 1/4 mark on
the flywheel or torque converter indicates
TDC and should be aligned with the pointer in
the housing. On later models with a timing
scale on the timing cover, the notch in the
crankshaft pulley should be aligned with the 0
pointer on the timing cover scale.
7 The distributor rotor arm should now be
pointing towards the No 1 spark plug HT lead
segment in the distributor cap indicating that
the crankshaft is correctly positioned with
number 1 cylinder at TDC on its compression
stroke. Temporarily place the cap in position
to verify this if necessary. If the rotor arm is
pointing at the No 4 HT lead segment in the
cap, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360º)
until the TDC timing marks are realigned and
the rotor arm is pointing at the No 1 segment.

4 Valve clearances -

adjustment

2

1 The valve adjustments should be made with
the engine cold. The importance of correct
rocker arm/valve stem clearances cannot be
overstressed as they vitally affect the
performance of the engine. If the clearances
are set too wide, the efficiency of the engine is
reduced as the valves open later and close
earlier than was intended. If, on the other
hand the clearances are set too close there is
danger that the stems will expand upon
heating and not allow the valves to close
properly, which will cause burning of the valve
head and seat, and possible warping.

2 To gain access to the rocker arms, remove
the ignition shield (where fitted) from the front
of the engine then undo the two rocker cover
retaining bolts. Lift out the bolts along with the
ignition shield brackets and lift the rocker
cover and gasket away. Collect the rocker
cover retaining bolt dished washers from the
top of the two rubber seals.
3 It is important that the clearance is set when
the tappet of the valve being adjusted is on the
heel of the cam, (ie opposite the peak). Turn
the engine until valve No 8 (nearest the
flywheel end of the engine) is fully open. With
the engine in this position, valve No 1 will be
fully closed and ready to be checked. On
manual transmission models, the engine can
be turned over quite easily by engaging top
gear and moving the car forwards. This should
only be done on level ground; and make sure
that the car cannot run away! An alternative
method, and the method that should be used
on automatic transmission models, is to press
the fan belt midway between the water pump
pulley and dynamo or alternator pulley and
then turn the fan blades.

4 A feeler blade of the correct thickness
should now be inserted between the valve
stem and rocker arm. When the clearance is
correct the feeler blade should be a smooth
stiff sliding fit between the valve stem and
rocker arm. The correct valve clearances are
given in the Specifications at the start of this
Chapter.
5 If the feeler blade is a tight or loose fit then
the clearance must be adjusted. To do this,
loosen the locknut of the adjustment stud and
screw the adjuster stud in or out until the
feeler blade can be felt to drag slightly when
drawn from the gap (see illustration).
6 Hold the adjuster firmly in this position and
tighten the locknut. Recheck the gap on
completion to ensure that it has not altered
when locking the nut and stud.
7 Check each valve clearance in turn in the
following sequence (which also avoids turning

the crankshaft more than necessary). The
valves are numbered from the timing chain
end of the engine.

Valve fully open Check and adjust

Valve No 8 Valve No 1
Valve No 6 Valve No 3
Valve No 4 Valve No 5
Valve No 7 Valve No 2
Valve No 1 Valve No 8
Valve No 3 Valve No 6
Valve No 5 Valve No 4
Valve No 2 Valve No 7

8 When all the valves have been checked and
adjusted, refit the rocker cover using a new
gasket and secure with the retaining bolts.
Where applicable, remember to fit the ignition
shield brackets with the retaining bolts. Avoid
over-tightening the rocker cover bolts.
9 Refit the spark plugs, HT leads and ignition
shield.

5 Timing chain, tensioner and

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the fan belt.
3 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the radiator.
4 Undo the bolts securing the fan to the water

pump spindle, and remove the fan.
5 On later models, it may be necessary to
remove the lower radiator mounting bracket
to gain the necessary clearance to allow
removal of the crankshaft pulley. To do this,
undo the two nuts and bolts, accessed from
underneath the wheel arch, securing the left­hand engine mounting to the subframe.
Position a jack with interposed block of wood
beneath the engine/transmission and carefully
lift the jack until the engine/transmission is
raised slightly. Undo the nuts and through­bolts securing the mounting bracket to the
transmission, and remove the bracket
assembly from the vehicle (see illustration).
6 Bend back the locking tab of the crankshaft
pulley locking washer under the crankshaft
pulley retaining bolt, prising it back with a cold

2A•4 Engine in-car repair procedures

5.5 Left-hand mounting bracket

attachment bolts (arrowed) on later

manual transmission models

4.5 Adjusting the valve clearances

Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.

Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.

chisel or screwdriver through the radiator
grille in the wing. Using a suitable socket or
spanner remove the bolt and locking washer.
This bolt is sometimes very difficult to shift,
and hitting the free end of the spanner with a
heavy hammer is often the only way to start it.
Engage top gear and apply the handbrake
hard to prevent the engine from turning.
Alternatively, remove the starter motor
(Chapter 5A) and lock the flywheel with a
screwdriver or similar tool engaged with the
ring gear teeth.
7 Once the bolt has been slackened, set the
engine at TDC for No 1 piston as described in
Section 3.
8 Placing two large screwdrivers behind the
crankshaft pulley at 180º to each other,
carefully lever the pulley off. It is preferable to
use a proper pulley extractor if this is
available, but large screwdrivers or tyre levers
are quite suitable, providing care is taken not
to damage the pulley flange.
9 Remove the Woodruff key from the
crankshaft nose with a pair of pliers and store
it safely as it is a very small part and can easily
be mislaid.
10 Unscrew the bolts holding the timing
cover to the block. Note: Four of the bolts are

larger than the others and each bolt makes
use of a large flat washer as well as a spring
washer.

11 Take off the timing cover and gasket. If
fitted, detach the engine breather hose from
the cover.

12 With the timing cover removed, slide off
the oil thrower. Note: The concave side faces
forward.
13 Bend back the locking tab on the washer
under the camshaft retaining nut and unscrew
the nut, noting how the locking washer
locating tag fits in the camshaft sprocket
keyway (see illustration).
14 To remove the camshaft and crankshaft
sprockets complete with chain, ease each
sprocket forward a little at a time, levering
behind each one in turn with two large
screwdrivers at 180º to each other. If the
sprockets are locked solid, it will be
necessary to use a suitable puller. With both
sprockets removed, extract the Woodruff
keys from the crankshaft and camshaft with a
pair of pliers and store them safely. Note that

there may be a number of very thin packing
washers behind the crankshaft sprocket; if so
carefully remove them.
15 On later models, unscrew the timing chain
tensioner retaining bolt and remove the bolt
and tensioner. Note that there is a washer on
each side of the tensioner arm.

Inspection

16 Thoroughly clean all the components with
paraffin or a suitable solvent and dry
thoroughly. Pay particular attention to the
timing cover and the mating face on the
engine front plate, ensuring that all traces of
old gasket are removed.
17 Examine the teeth on both the crankshaft
and camshaft sprockets for wear. Each tooth
forms an inverted “V” with the sprocket
periphery and, if worn, the side of each tooth
under tension will be slightly concave in shape
when compared with the other side of the
tooth. If any sign of wear is present the
sprockets must be renewed.
18 Examine the links of the chain for side
slackness and renew the chain if any
slackness is noticeable when compared with
a new chain. It is a sensible precaution to
renew the chain at about 60 000 miles, and at
a lesser mileage if the engine is dismantled for
a major overhaul. The actual rollers on a very
badly worn chain may be slightly grooved.
Cooper S type engines use duplex chains.
19 Also check the rubber tension rings in the
camshaft sprocket, where fitted. It is quite
likely that the rubber will have become hard
due to heat and oil contamination and it is
advisable to renew them as a matter of
course. The rings are simply prised out with a
screwdriver and new rings stretched over the
sprocket flanges and into the grooves (see
illustration). A spring-loaded rubber
tensioning pad may be fitted to the timing
cover on Cooper S type and later engines in
place of the tensioning rings. If the rubber pad
is grooved where it bears against the chain, it
should also be renewed.
20 It is advisable to renew the timing cover
oil seal at this stage. Drive out the old seal and
tap in the new one using the old seal to
spread the load. Ensure that the open side of
the seal faces inward, towards the chain.

Refitting

Note: Before reassembly begins check that
the original packing washers are in place on
the crankshaft nose. If new sprockets are
being fitted it may be necessary to fit
additional washers (see paragraph 25). These
washers ensure that the crankshaft sprocket
lines up correctly with the camshaft sprocket.

21 Refit the Woodruff keys in their respective
slots in the crankshaft and camshaft, and
ensure that they are fully seated. If their edges
are burred they must be cleaned with a fine
file.
22 Lay the two sprockets on a clean surface
so that the timing dots are adjacent to each
other. Slip the timing chain over them and pull

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5

2A

5.19 Fitting a new tensioning ring to the
camshaft

5.13 Timing sprocket and chain assembly - later type with tensioner arm

1 Camshaft sprocket
2 Crankshaft sprocket
3 Timing chain

4 Oil thrower
5 Lockwasher
6 Nut

7 Tensioner retaining

bolt

8 Tensioner

the sprockets back into mesh with the chain
so that the timing dots, although further apart
are still adjacent to each other (see

illustrations).
23 Check that the engine is still positioned at

TDC for No 1 piston (Section 3). In this
position the crankshaft Woodruff key should
be at the 12 o’clock position and the camshaft
Woodruff key should be at the 2 o’clock
position.
24 Fit the timing chain and sprocket assembly
onto the camshaft and crankshaft, keeping the
timing marks adjacent. If the camshaft and
crankshaft have been positioned accurately, it
will be found that the keyways on the
sprockets will match the position of the keys,
although it may be necessary to rotate the
camshaft a fraction to ensure accurate lining­up of the camshaft sprocket.

25 Press the sprockets into position on the
crankshaft and camshaft as far as they will go.

Note: If new sprockets are being fitted they
should be checked for alignment before being
finally fitted to the engine. Place the sprockets

in position without the timing chain and place
the straight edge of a steel ruler from the side
of the camshaft gear teeth to the crankshaft
sprocket and measure the gap between the
steel rule and the sprocket (see illustration).
If a gap exists a suitable number of packing
washers must be placed on the crankshaft
nose to bring the crankshaft sprocket onto the
same plane as the camshaft sprocket.
26 Fit the oil thrower to the crankshaft with
the concave side forward.
27 Fit the locking washer to the camshaft
sprocket with its locating tab in the sprocket
keyway.
28 Screw on the camshaft sprocket retaining
nut and tighten securely.
29 Bend up the locking tab of the locking
washer to hold the camshaft retaining nut
securely.
30 On engines with a separate timing chain
tensioner, refit the tensioner and retaining bolt
ensuring that there is a washer on each side
of the tensioner arm.

31 Generously oil the chain and sprockets.
32 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to each side

of the new gasket, on the lower half of the
gasket only. Place the gasket on the timing
cover then quickly position the timing cover
on the engine.

33 Screw in the timing cover retaining bolts
with the flat washer next to the cover flange
and under the spring washer. Tighten the
respective bolts to the specified torque.
34 Fit the crankshaft pulley to the nose of the
crankshaft, ensuring that the keyway engages
with the Woodruff key.
35 Fit the crankshaft retaining bolt locking
washer and screw in the crankshaft pulley
retaining bolt. Tighten to the specified torque
while using the same method to prevent
crankshaft rotation as was used for removal.
36 Where removed, refit the radiator lower
mounting bracket and secure the bracket to
the engine/transmission and subframe.
Remove the jack under the engine.
37 Refit the fan to the water pump spindle
and secure with the four bolts securely
tightened.
38 Refit the radiator as described in Chapter 3
and the fan belt as described in Chapter 1.
39 Refit the components removed when
setting the engine at TDC, then reconnect the
battery.

6 Rocker shaft assembly -

removal, inspection and
refitting

3

General information

1 The rocker shaft assembly is secured to the
top of the cylinder head by the cylinder head
inner studs and nuts. Although in theory it is
possible to undo the head nuts and remove the
rocker shaft assembly without removing the
head, in practice, this is not recommended.

2A•6 Engine in-car repair procedures

5.22a Timing dots on sprockets aligned
with chain fitted

5.22b Timing mark locations relative to keyways

1 Timing dot on camshaft sprocket 2 Timing dot on crankshaft sprocket

5.25 Timing sprocket alignment ­double row type shown

1 Camshaft sprocket
2 Woodruff key
3 Straight edge

4 Crankshaft

sprocket

5 Inset: shims

Note that with single row type, it is
important to align the sides of the teeth and
not the raised hub of the sprocket

Once the nuts have been removed, the head
gasket will be disturbed, and the gasket will
almost certainly leak or blow after refitting. For
this reason, removal of the rocker shaft
assembly cannot be done without removing
the cylinder head and renewing the head
gasket.

Removal

2 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 7 or 8 as applicable.
3 To dismantle the rocker shaft assembly,
release the rocker shaft locating screw,
remove the split pins, flat washers, and spring
washers from each end of the shaft and slide
from the shaft the pedestals, rocker arms, and
rocker spacing springs (see illustration).
Keep all the components in order and make a
note of each component’s correct fitted
position and orientation as it is removed, to
ensure it is fitted correctly on reassembly.

Inspection

4 Check the rocker arms for wear of the
rocker bushes, for wear at the rocker arm face
which bears on the valve stem, and for wear
of the adjusting ball-ended screws. Wear in
the rocker arm bush can be checked by
gripping the rocker arm tip and holding the
rocker arm in place on the shaft, noting if
there is any lateral rocker arm shake. If shake
is present, and the arm is very loose on the
shaft, remedial action must be taken. Pressed
steel valve rockers cannot be renovated by
renewal of the rocker arm bush. It is
necessary to fit new rocker arms. Forged
rocker arms which have worn bushes may be
taken to a Rover dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist to have the old bush
drawn out and a new bush fitted. Forged
rockers and pressed steel rockers are
interchangeable in sets of eight, but, where
one or two pressed steel rockers only require
renewal, it is not advised to replace them with
the forged type.
5 Check the tip of the rocker arm where it
bears on the valve head for cracking or
serious wear on the case hardening. If none is
present re-use the rocker arm. Check the
lower half of the ball on the end of the rocker
arm adjusting screw. On high performance
mini engines, wear on the ball and top of the

pushrod is easily noted by the unworn “pip”
which fits in the small central oil hole on the
ball. The larger this “pip” the more wear has
taken place to both the ball and the pushrod.
Check the pushrods for straightness by rolling
them on the bench. Renew any that are bent.

Refitting

6 To reassemble the rocker shaft fit the split
pin, flat washer and spring washer at the rear
end of the shaft and then slide on the rocker
arms, rocker shaft pedestals, and spacing
springs in the same order in which they were
removed.
7 With the front pedestal in position, screw in
the rocker shaft locating screws and slip the
locating plate into position. Finally, fit to the
front of the shaft the spring washer, plain
washer, and split pin, in that order.
8 Refit the cylinder head as described in
Section 7 or 8.

7 Cylinder head (carburettor

engines) - removal and

refitting

3

Note: If working on a pre-1990 engine fitted
with emission control equipment, it will be
necessary to first remove the diverter valve, air
pump and associated hoses before
proceeding with the removal sequence.
Detailed removal procedures for these
components will be found in Chapter 4C.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. For
improved working clearance, remove the
bonnet as described in Chapter 11.
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
3 Slacken the clips securing the radiator top
hose and remove the hose.
4 On models fitted with an ignition shield over
the front of the engine, release the three
retaining lugs and lift off the shield.
5 Make a note of the electrical connections at
the ignition coil and disconnect them. Now
undo and remove the nut securing the coil
bracket to the cylinder head and lift away the
coil.
6 Undo and remove the nuts or bolts securing

the radiator upper support bracket to the
thermostat housing and radiator. Remove the
bracket.
7 Refer to Chapter 4A and remove the air
cleaner assembly and carburettor(s).
8 Undo and remove the retaining nuts and
bolts, and lift off the clamps securing the
exhaust front pipe to the manifold. On Cooper
S models, undo and remove the nuts and flat
washers securing the inlet and exhaust
manifolds to the cylinder head. Lift off the inlet
manifold, ease the exhaust manifold back off
the cylinder head studs and tie it securely in
this position.
9 Slacken the water pump-to-cylinder head
bypass hose retaining clips.
10 Slacken the securing clip and remove the
heater hose from the heater valve on the
cylinder head. Now disconnect the control
cable from the valve.
11 Make a note of their positions and then
remove the HT leads from the spark plugs.
12 Detach the temperature gauge electrical
lead from the sender unit.
13 Undo the two rocker cover retaining bolts.
Lift out the bolts along with the ignition shield
brackets and lift the rocker cover and gasket
away. Collect the rocker cover retaining bolt
dished washers from the top of the two rubber
seals.
14 Slacken the four rocker pedestal nuts and
the nine main cylinder head nuts, half a turn at
a time, in the reverse sequence to that shown
(see illustration 7.31). On some 1275 cc
engines an additional nut and bolt are located
at the front and rear of the cylinder head, and
these must be released first. When the tension
is released from all the nuts, they may then be
removed, one at a time, from their studs.
15 Recover the pedestal plate (where fitted)
the lift off the rocker shaft assembly complete
and place it to one side (see illustrations).
16 Lift out the pushrods, keeping them in
order according to their respective valves
(see illustration).

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7

2A

6.3 Rocker shaft components dismantled
for inspection

7.15a Recover the pedestal plate
(where fitted) . . .

7.15b . . . then lift off the rocker shaft
assembly

The easiest way to keep the
pushrods in order is to push
them through a sheet of

thick paper or thin card, in
the correct sequence, then number
them 1 to 8.

17 The cylinder head can now be removed
by lifting upwards. If the head is jammed, try
to rock it to break the seal. Under no
circumstances try to prise it apart from the
block with a screwdriver or cold chisel, as
damage may be done to the faces of the head
or block. If other methods fail to work, strike
the head sharply with a plastic or wooden
headed hammer, or with a metal hammer with
an interposed piece of wood to cushion the
blows. Under no circumstances must you hit
the head directly with a metal hammer, as this
may cause the iron casting to fracture.
Several sharp taps with the hammer, at the
same time pulling upwards, should free the
head. Lift the head off squarely and place it on
one side.
18 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for
overhaul, refer to Part B of this Chapter. Refer
to Section 6 if the rocker shaft assembly is to
be dismantled.

Preparation for refitting

19 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a metal or hard plastic
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as the mating faces and piston crowns can be

easily scored. Also, make sure that the carbon
is not allowed to enter the oil and water
passages - this is particularly important for the
lubrication system, as carbon could block the
oil supply to the engine’s components. Using
adhesive tape and paper, seal the water and
oil holes in the cylinder block. To prevent
carbon entering the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little grease in the gap.
After cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and carbon
from the gap, then wipe away the remainder
with a clean rag. Clean all the pistons in the
same way.
20 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
21 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part B of this
Chapter if necessary.
22 Check the condition of the cylinder head
studs and nuts, and particularly their threads.
Wash the nuts in a suitable solvent and wipe
clean the studs. Check each for any sign of
visible wear or damage, renewing any if
necessary.

Refitting

23 After checking that both the cylinder block
and cylinder head mating faces are perfectly
clean, generously lubricate each cylinder with
engine oil.
24 Always use a new cylinder head gasket as
the old gasket will be compressed and not
capable of giving a good seal. It is also easier
at this stage to refit the small bypass hose
from the water pump to the cylinder head.
25 The cylinder head gasket is marked
“FRONT” and “TOP” and should be fitted in
position according to the markings (see

illustrations).
26 With the gasket in position carefully lower

the cylinder head onto the cylinder block.
Make sure that the bypass hose engages with
the pipe stub on the cylinder head as the head
is lowered into place.
27 Fit the cylinder head nuts and washers
finger tight to the five cylinder head holding­down studs, which remain outside the rocker
cover.
28 Fit the pushrods in the same order in
which they were removed. Ensure that they
locate properly in the stems of the tappets,
and lubricate the pushrod ends before fitting.
29 The rocker shaft assembly can now be
lowered over its eight locating studs. Take
care that the rocker arms are the right way
round. Lubricate the ball ends of the tappet
adjusting screws and insert them in the
pushrod cups. Note: Failure to place the ball

ends in the cups can result in them seating on
the edge of a pushrod or outside it when the
head and rocker assembly is pulled down
tight.

30 Fit the four rocker pedestal nuts and
washers, and then the four cylinder head stud
nuts and washers, which also serve to hold
down the rocker pedestals. Pull the nuts down
evenly, but without tightening them right up.
31 When all is in position, the nine cylinder
head nuts and the four rocker pedestal nuts
can be tightened down in the order shown
(see illustration). Turn the nuts a quarter of a
turn at a time and tighten to the specified
torque

Note: On 1275 cc engines having an
additional nut and bolt, these should be
tightened last.

2A•8 Engine in-car repair procedures

7.16 Remove the pushrods, keeping them
in order

7.25a The cylinder head gasket is marked
FRONT . . .

7.25b . . . and TOP

7.31 Cylinder head nut tightening sequence

A and B indicate additional bolt and nut on some 1275 cc engines. Reverse this order for slackening