Throughout this publication, “Dangers”, “Warnings” and “Cautions” (accompanied by the International HAZARD Symbol
cerning a particular service or operation that may be hazardous if performed incorrectly or
carelessly. OBSERVE THEM CAREFULLY!
These “Safe t y A l e rts” alone cannot eliminate the hazards that they signal. Strict compliance
to these special instructions when performing the service, plus “Common Sense” operation,
are major accident prevention measures.
) are used to alert the mechanic to special instructions con-
DANGER
DANGER - Immediate hazards which WILL result in severe personal injury or death.
WARNING
WARNING - Hazards or unsafe practices which COULD result in severe personal injury or death.
CAUTION
Hazards or unsafe practices which could result in minor personal injury or product
or property damage.
Notice to Users of This Manual
This service manual has been written and published by the Service Department of Mercury
Marine to aid our dealers’ mechanics and company service personnel when servicing the
products described herein.
It is assumed that these personnel are familiar with the servicing procedures of these products, or like or similar products manufactured and marketed by Mercury Marine, that they
have been trained in the recommended servicing procedures of these products which includes the use of mechanics’ common hand tools and the special Mercury Marine or recommended tools from other suppliers.
We could not possibly know of and advise the service trade of all conceivable procedures
by which a service might be performed and of the possible hazards and/or results of each
method. We have not undertaken any such wide evaluation. Therefore, anyone who uses
a service procedure and/or tool, which is not recommended by the manufacturer, first must
completely satisfy himself that neither his nor the products safety will be endangered by the
service procedure selected.
All information, illustrations and specifications contained in this manual are based on the
latest product information available at the time of publication. As required, revisions to this
manual will be sent to all dealers contracted by us to sell and/or service these products.
It should be kept in mind, while working on the product, that the electrical system and ignition
system are capable of violent and damaging short circuits or severe electrical shocks. When
performing any work where electrical terminals could possibly be grounded or touched by
the mechanic, the battery cables should be disconnected at the battery.
Any time the intake or exhaust openings are exposed during service they should be covered
to protect against accidental entrance of foreign material which could enter the cylinders and
cause extensive internal damage when the engine is started.
90-859494R1 JUNE 2000Page i
It is important to note, during any maintenance procedure replacement fasteners must have
the same measurements and strength as those removed. Numbers on the heads of the metric bolts and on the surfaces of metric nuts indicate their strength. American bolts use radial
lines for this purpose, while most American nuts do not have strength markings. Mismatched or incorrect fasteners can result in damage or malfunction, or possibly personal
injury. Therefore, fasteners removed should be saved for reuse in the same locations whenever possible. Where the fasteners are not satisfactory for re-use, care should be taken to
select a replacement that matches the original.
Cleanliness and Care of Outboard Motor
A marine power product is a combination of many machined, honed, polished and lapped
surfaces with tolerances that are measured in the ten thousands of an inch/mm. When any
product component is serviced, care and cleanliness are important. Throughout this manual, it should be understood that proper cleaning, and protection of machined surfaces and
friction areas is a part of the repair procedure. This is considered standard shop practice
even if not specifically stated.
Whenever components are removed for service, they should be retained in order. At the
time of installation, they should be installed in the same locations and with the same mating
surfaces as when removed.
Personnel should not work on or under an outboard which is suspended. Outboards should
be attached to work stands, or lowered to ground as soon as possible.
We reserve the right to make changes to this manual without prior notification.
Refer to dealer service bulletins for other pertinent information concerning the products de-
scribed in this manual.
Page Numbering
Two number groups appear at the bottom of each page. The example below is self-explanatory.
90-859494 R1 MAY 2000
EXAMPLE:
LOWER UNIT - 6A-7
Revision No. 1
Month of Printing
Year of Printing
Page ii90-859494R1 JUNE 2000
Section Description
Section Number
Part of Section Letter
Page Number
Service Manual Outline
Section 1 - General Information & Specifications
A - Specifications
B - Maintenance
C - General Information
D - Outboard Installation
Section 2 - Electrical
A - Ignition
B - Charging & Starting System
C - Timing, Synchronizing & Adjusting
D - Wiring Diagrams
Section 3 - Fuel System
A - Fuel Pump
B - Direct Fuel Injection
C - Oil Injection
D - Emissions
Section 4 - Powerhead
A - Powerhead
B - Cooling
Section 5 - Mid-Section
A - Clamp/Swivel Brackets & Drive Shaft Housing
B - Power Trim – Design I (Showa)
C - Power Trim – Design II (Oildyne)
Section 6 - Gear Housing
A - Right Hand (Standard) Rotation Non-Ratcheting
B - Left Hand (Counter) Rotattion Non-Ratcheting
Section 7 - Attachments/Control Linkage
Section 8 - Color Diagrams
3. 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon 92-825407A12
MAINTENANCE
4. SAE 30W Motor Oil (Obtain Locally)
5. Quicksilver Power Trim and Steering Fluid 91-90100A12)
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1B-3
MAINTENANCE
Inspection and Maintenance Schedule
Before Each Use
1. Check that lanyard stop switch stops the engine.
2. Visually inspect the fuel system for deterioration or leaks.
3. Check outboard for tightness on transom.
4. Check steering system for binding or loose components.
5. Visually check steering link rod fasteners for proper tightness.
6. Check propeller blades for damage.
After Each Use
1. Flush out the outboard cooling system if operating in salt or polluted water.
2. Wash off all salt deposits and flush out the exhaust outlet of the propeller and gear
case with fresh water if operating in salt water.
Every 100 Hours of Use or Once yearly, Whichever occurs first
1. Lubricate all lubrication points. Lubricate more frequently when used in salt water.
2. Inspect and clean spark plugs.
3. Replace water separating fuel filter
4. Replace compressor air intake filter.
5. Check corrosion control anodes. Check more frequently when used in salt water.
6. Drain and replace gear case lubricant.
7. Lubricate splines on the drive shaft.
8. Check power trim fluid.
9. Inspect battery.
10. Check control cable adjustments.
11. Remove engine deposits with Quicksilver Power Tune Engine Cleaner.
12. Check tightness of bolts, nuts, and other fasteners.
13. Replace water pump impeller (more often if overheating occurs or reduced water
pressure is noted).
These items should be serviced by an authorized dealer.
∗
∗
∗
∗
Page 1B-490-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Flushing Engine
Flushing Cooling System – Using Cowl Flush Plug
Flush the internal water passages of the outboard with fresh water after each use in salt,
polluted or muddy water. This will help prevent a buildup of deposits from clogging the
internal water passages.
NOTE: Engine can be stopped or running at idle speed when flushing the cooling system.
Do not flush engine using a water system that exceeds 45 psi.
1. Remove the plug from fitting in the bottom cowl.
MAINTENANCE
2. Attach a water hose to the fitting. Turn water on and flush for 3 to 5 minutes.
Flushing Cooling System – Using Flushing Attachment 44357A2
WARNING
When flushing, verify that area in vicinity of propeller is clear and that no person
is standing nearby – to avoid possible injury . It is recommended to remove propeller as a precautionary measure.
1. Install Quicksilver Flushing Attachment 44357A2 (or equivalent tool) on the gear
housing from the FRONT side, positioning the rubber cups over the water intake
openings.
2. Connect hose [1/2 in. (12.7mm) I.D. or larger] between flushing attachment and water
tap.
IMPORTANT: To prevent water pump damage, do not start or run engine unless
cooling water is flowing.
3. With the outboard in the normal operating position (vertical), partially open water tap
(IT IS NOT NECESSARY to use full water pressure) and adjust water flow so that
there is a significant water loss around the rubber cups.
4. Start engine and idle in NEUTRAL. Increase engine speed, not to exceed 2500 RPM.
5. Flush or service engine as required. Verify adequate cooling water is provided.
a. Water must be discharged thru “tell tale.”
IMPORT ANT: Prevent engine overheating. If water flow is insufficient, stop engine
and determine cause before continuing.
b. Flush until discharge water is clear. In salt-water areas, run outboard 3 to 5 min-
utes.
c. Stop engine before turning off water.
6. Stop engine, turn water off and remove flushing attachment from gear housing.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1B-5
MAINTENANCE
IMPORTANT: While and after flushing, keep outboard in upright position until all
water has drained from drive shaft housing to prevent water from entering the powerhead via drive shaft housing and exhaust ports.
Fuel System
Avoid serious injury or death from gasoline fire or explosion. Carefully follow all
fuel system service instructions. Always stop the engine and DO NOT smoke or
allow open flames or sparks in the area while servicing any part of the fuel system.
Before servicing any part of the fuel system, stop engine and disconnect the battery . Drain
the fuel system completely . Use an approved container to collect and store fuel. Wipe up
any spillage immediately . Material used to contain spillage must be disposed of in an approved receptacle. Any fuel system service must be performed in a well ventilated area.
Inspect any completed service work for sign of fuel leakage.
Fuel Line Inspection
Visually inspect the fuel line and primer bulb for cracks, swelling, leaks, hardness, or other
signs of deterioration or damage. If any of these conditions is found, the fuel line or primer
bulb must be replaced.
WARNING
Water Separating Fuel Filter
NOTE: The warning system will turn on when water in the fuel filter reaches the full level.
1. This filter removes moisture and also debris from the fuel. If the filter becomes filled
with water, the water can be removed. If the filter becomes plugged with debris, the
filter must be replaced with a new filter.
Remove and replace filter as follows:
a. Turn ignition key switch to OFF position.
b. Disconnect wire at bottom of filter.
c. Remove filter by turning the filter in the direction of the arrow (clockwise). Tip the
filter to drain fluid in a suitable container.
d. Lubricate the sealing ring on the filter with oil. Thread on the filter and tighten se-
curely by hand. Reconnect the wire to the filter.
IMPORT ANT : Visually inspect for fuel leakage from the filter by squeezing the primer bulb until firm, forcing fuel into the filter.
Page 1B-690-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Corrosion Control Anode
The gear case has two corrosion control anodes (a). Another anode (b) is installed on the
bottom of the transom bracket assembly. An anode helps protect the outboard against
galvanic corrosion by sacrificing its metal to be slowly eroded instead of the outboard
metals.
a
Each anode requires periodic inspection especially in salt water which will accelerate the
erosion. T o maintain this corrosion protection, always replace the anode before it is completely eroded. Never paint or apply a protective coating on the anode as this will reduce
effectiveness of the anode.
MAINTENANCE
b
Spark Plug Inspection
Inspect spark plugs at the recommended intervals.
1. Remove the spark plug leads by twisting the rubber boots slightly and pull off. Inspect
spark plug boots and replace if cracked.
2. Remove the spark plugs to inspect and clean. Replace spark plug if electrode is worn
or the insulator is rough, cracked, broken, blistered or fouled.
3. Set the spark plug gap. See Specification Chart in General Information Section.
4. Before reinstalling spark plugs, clean away dirt on the spark plug seats. Install plugs
finger tight, and tighten 1/4 turn or torque to 20 lb. ft. (27 N·m).
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1B-7
MAINTENANCE
Battery Inspection
The battery should be inspected at periodic intervals to ensure proper engine starting
capability.
IMPORTANT: Read the safety and maintenance instructions which accompany
your battery.
1. Turn off the engine before servicing the battery.
2. Add water as necessary to keep the battery full.
3. Make sure the battery is secure against movement.
4. Battery cable terminals should be clean, tight, and correctly installed. Positive to positive and negative to negative.
5. Make sure the battery is equipped with a nonconductive shield to prevent accidental
shorting of battery terminals.
Fuse Replacement
IMPORTANT: Always carry spare SFE 20 AMP fuses.
The electrical wiring circuits on the outboard are protected from overload by fuses in the
wiring. If a fuse is blown, try to locate and correct the cause of the overload. If the cause
is not found, the fuse may blow again.
1. Open the fuse holder and look at the silver colored band inside the fuse. If band is
broken, replace the fuse. Replace fuse with a new fuse with the same rating.
2. The fuses and circuits are identified as follows:
a. Electric Fuel Pump Circuit – SFE 20 AMP Fuse.
b. Fuel/Air Injector Circuits – SFE 20 AMP Fuse.
c. Starting Circuit – SFE 20 AMP Fuse.
d. Ignition Coil/Oil Pump Circuit – SFE 20 AMP Fuse.
a
b
c
d
Page 1B-890-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Compressor Air intake Filter
The filter should be changed every 100 hours of operation, or once a season. Never run
the engine without the air filter.
Removal
1. Remove flywheel cover from the engine. Snap out the retainer (a) and remove filter
(b).
MAINTENANCE
a
b
Installation
Install filter (b) into the cover. Secure filter into cover with retainer (a).
Lubrication Points
Lubricate Point 1 with Quicksilver Special Lubricant 101.
1. Trim Rod Ball Ends – Turn the ball ends to work the lubricant into the ball sockets.
1
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1B-9
MAINTENANCE
Lubricate Point 2 with Quicksilver Anti-Corrosion Grease or 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon.
2. Propeller Shaft – Refer to Propeller Replacement for removal and installation of the
propeller. Coat the entire propeller shaft with lubricant to prevent the propeller hub
from corroding and seizing to the shaft.
2
Lubricate Points 3 thru 6 with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon or Special
Lubricate 101.
3. Swivel Bracket – Lubricate through fitting.
4. Tilt Support Lever – Lubricate through fitting.
5. Tilt Tube – Lubricate through fitting.
5
3
4
Page 1B-1090-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
6. Steering Cable Grease Fitting (If Equipped) – Rotate steering wheel to fully retract the
steering cable end (a) into the outboard tilt tube. Lubricate through fitting (b).
The end of the steering cable must be fully retracted into the outboard tilt tube
before adding lubricant. Adding lubricant to steering cable when fully extended
could cause steering cable to become hydraulically locked. An hydraulically
locked steering cable will cause loss of steering control, possibly resulting in serious injury or death.
Lubricate Points 7 With Light Weight Oil.
7. Steering Link Rod Pivot Points – Lubricate pivot points.
MAINTENANCE
WARNING
6-b
Checking Power Trim Fluid
8. Tilt outboard to the full up position and engage the tilt support lock.
6-a
7
8
9. Remove fill cap and check fluid level. The fluid level should be even with the bottom
of the fill hole. Add Quicksilver Power Trim & Steering Fluid. If not available, use automotive (ATF) automatic transmission fluid.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1B-1 1
9
MAINTENANCE
Gear Case Lubrication
When adding or changing gear case lubricant, visually check for the presence of water
in the lubricant. If water is present, it may have settled to the bottom and will drain out prior
to the lubricant, or it may be mixed with the lubricant, giving it a milky colored appearance.
If water is noticed, have the gear case checked by your dealer.W ater in the lubricant may
result in premature bearing failure or, in freezing temperatures, will turn to ice and damage
the gear case.
Whenever you remove the fill/drain plug, examine the magnetic end for metal particles.
A small amount of metal filings or fine metal particles indicates normal gear wear. An excessive amount of metal filings or larger particles (chips) may indicate abnormal gear
wear and should be checked by an authorized dealer.
DRAINING GEAR CASE
NOTE: Some models may have the vent and fill/drain plugs on the opposite side.
1. Place outboard in a vertical operating position.
2. Place drain pan below outboard.
3. Remove vent plug and fill/drain plug and drain lubricant.
3
2
GEAR CASE LUBRICANT CAPACITY
Gear case lubricant capacity is approximately 22.5 fl. oz. (666 ml).
1
Page 1B-1290-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
CHECKING GEAR CASE LUBRICANT LEVEL AND REFILLING GEAR CASE
NOTE: Some models may have the vent and fill/drain plugs on the opposite side.
1. Place outboard in a vertical operating position.
2. Remove vent plug (a).
3. Place lubricant tube (b) into the fill hole and add lubricant until it appears at the vent
hole (c).
IMPORTANT: Replace sealing washers if damaged.
4. Stop adding lubricant. Install the vent plug and sealing washer (a) before removing
the lubricant tube.
5. Remove lubricant tube and reinstall cleaned fill/drain plug and sealing washer (d).
a
MAINTENANCE
c
1-5
b
STORAGE PREPARATION
The major consideration in preparing your outboard for storage is to protect it from rust,
corrosion, and damage caused by freezing of trapped water.
The following storage procedures should be followed to prepare your outboard for out of
season storage or prolonged storage (two months or longer).
Never start or run your outboard (even momentarily) without water circulating
through all the cooling water intake holes in the gear case to prevent damage to
the water pump (running dry) or overheating of the engine.
FUEL SYSTEM
IMPORTANT: Gasoline containing alcohol (ethanol or methanol) can cause a formation of acid during storage and can damage the fuel system. If the gasoline being used contains alcohol, it is advisable to drain as much of the remaining gasoline as possible from the fuel tank, remote fuel line, and engine fuel system.
d
CAUTION
Fill the fuel system (tank, hoses, fuel pumps, and fuel injection systems) with treated (stabilized) fuel to help prevent formation of varnish and gum. Proceed with following instructions.
1. Portable Fuel T ank – Pour the required amount of Quicksilver Gasoline Stabilizer (follow instructions on container) into fuel tank. Tip fuel tank back and forth to mix stabilizer with the fuel.
2. Permanently Installed Fuel Tank – Pour the required amount of Quicksilver Gasoline
Stabilizer (follow instructions on container) into a separate container and mix with approximately one quart (one liter) of gasoline. Pour this mixture into fuel tank.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1B-13
MAINTENANCE
3. Place the outboard in water or connect flushing attachment for circulating cooling
water. Run the engine at 2000 rpm for 25 minutes to allow treated fuel to fill the fuel
system.
PROTECTING INTERNAL ENGINE COMPONENTS
NOTE: Make sure the fuel system has been prepared for storage.
1. Remove the spark plugs and add approximately one ounce (30ml) of engine oil into
each spark plug hole. Rotate the flywheel manually several times to distribute the oil
in the cylinders. Reinstall spark plugs.
2. Remove the water separating fuel filter and empty contents into a suitable container.
Refer to Maintenance Section for removal and installation of filter. Replace fuel filter
annually , or every 100 Hours of operation, or if large amount of fuel contamination is
present.
PROTECTING EXTERNAL OUTBOARD COMPONENTS
1. Lubricate all outboard components listed in the Inspection and Maintenance
Schedule.
2. Touch up any paint nicks. See your dealer for touch-up paint.
3. Spray Quicksilver Corrosion Guard on external metal surfaces (except corrosion control anodes).
GEAR CASE
Drain and refill the gear case lubricant (refer to maintenance procedure).
POSITIONING OUTBOARD FOR STORAGE
Store outboard in an upright (vertical) position to allow water to drain out of outboard.
If outboard is stored tilted up in freezing temperature, trapped cooling water or
rain water that may have entered the propeller exhaust outlet in the gear case
could freeze and cause damage to the outboard.
BATTERY STORAGE
1. Follow the battery manufacturers instructions for storage and recharging.
2. Remove the battery from the boat and check water level. Recharge if necessary.
3. Store the battery in a cool, dry place.
4. Periodically check the water level and recharge the battery during storage.
The engine serial number is located on the lower starboard side of the engine block. A
serial number is also located on the starboard side of the swivel bracket.
1
C
Model 135/150 DFI Powerhead Front View1C-9. . . . . .
Model 135/150 DFI Powerhead Starboard View1C-10
Model 135/150 DFI Powerhead Port View1C-11. . . . . .
Model 135/150 DFI Powerhead Top View1C-12. . . . . .
a-Serial Number
b-Model Year
c-Model Description
d-Year Manufactured
e-Certified Europe Insignia
a
OGXXXXXX
19XX
XXXX
b
c
e
XX
d
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1C-1
GENERAL INFORMATION
Conditions Affecting Performance
Weather
Weather conditions exert a profound effect on power output of internal combustion engines. Established horsepower ratings refer to the power that the engine will produce at
its rated RPM under a specific combination of weather conditions.
Corporations internationally have settled on adoption of I.S.O. (International Standards
Organization) engine test standards, as set forth in I.S.O. 3046 standardizing the computation of horsepower from data obtained on the dynamometer, correcting all values to the
power that the engine will produce at sea level, at 30% relative humidity at 77° F (25°C)
temperature and a barometric pressure of 29.61 inches of mercury.
Summer conditions of high temperature, low barometric pressure and high humidity all
combine to reduce engine power. This is reflected in decreased boat speeds – as much
as 2 or 3 mph. Nothing will regain this speed for the boater but the coming of cool, dry
weather.
In pointing out the consequences of weather effects, an engine – running on a hot, humid
summer day – may lose as much as 14% of the horsepower it would produce on a dry,
brisk spring or fall day. The horsepower that any internal combustion engine produces
depends upon the density of the air that it consumes and this density is dependent upon
the temperature of the air, its barometric pressure and water vapor (or humidity) content.
Accompanying this weather-inspired loss of power is a second but more subtle loss. At
rigging time in early spring, the engine was equipped with a propeller that allowed the
engine to run within its recommended RPM range at full throttle. With the coming of the
summer weather and the consequent drop in available horsepower, this propeller will, in
effect, become too large. Consequently, the engine operates at less than its recommended RPM.
Due to the horsepower/RPM characteristics of an engine, this will result in further loss of
horsepower at the propeller with another decrease in boat speed. This secondary loss
can be regained by switching to a smaller pitch propeller that allows the engine to run
again at recommended RPM.
Page 1C-290-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
To obtain optimum engine performance under changing weather conditions, the engine
MUST be propped to allow it to operate at or near the top end of the recommended maximum RPM range at wide-open-throttle with a normal boat load.
This will allow the engine to develop full power while operating in an RPM range that discourages damaging detonation.
Boat
WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
1. Proper positioning of the weight inside the boat (persons and gear) has a significant
effect on the boat’s performance, for example:
a. Shifting weight to the rear (stern)
b. Shifting weight to the front (bow)
GENERAL INFORMATION
(1.)Generally increases top speed.
(2.)If in excess, can cause the boat to porpoise.
(3.)Can make the bow bounce excessively in choppy water.
(4.)Will increase the danger of the following wave splashing into the boat when
coming off plane.
(1.)Improves ease of planing off.
BOTTOM
(2.)Generally improves rough water ride.
(3.)If excessive, can make the boat veer back-and-forth (bow steer).
1. Boat Bottom: For maximum speed, a boat bottom should be nearly a flat plane where
it contacts the water and particularly straight and smooth in fore-and-aft direction.
a. Hook: Exists when bottom is concave in fore-and -aft direction when viewed from
the side. When boat is planing, “hook” causes more lift on bottom near transom
and allows bow to drop, thus greatly increasing wetted surface and reducing boat
speed. “Hook” frequently is caused by supporting boat too far ahead of transom
while hauling on a trailer or during storage.
b. Rocker: The reverse of hook and much less common. “Rocker” exists if bottom
is convex in fore-and-aft direction when viewed from the side, and boat has strong
tendency to porpoise.
c. Surface Roughness: Moss, barnacles, etc., on boat or corrosion of motor’s gear
housing increase skin friction and cause speed loss. Clean surfaces when necessary .
d. Gear Housing: If unit is left in the water, marine vegetation may accumulate over
a period of time. This growth MUST be removed from unit before operation, as it
may clog the water inlet holes in the gear housing and cause the engine to overheat.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1C-3
GENERAL INFORMATION
Trim
TRIMMING OUTBOARD “OUT” (“UP”)
Excessive trim “out” also may reduce the stability of some high speed hulls. T o
correct instability at high speed, reduce the power GRADUALL Y and trim the outboard “in” slightly before resuming high speed operation. (Rapid reduction in
power will cause a sudden change of steering torque and may cause additional
momentary boat instability.)
1. Will lift bow of boat, generally increasing top speed.
2. Transfers steering torque harder to left on single outboard installations below 23 in.
(584mm) transom height.
3. Increases clearance over submerged objects.
4. In excess, can cause porpoising and/or ventilation.
5. If trimmed out beyond the water pickup, reduced water supply can cause overheating
resulting in engine damage.
WARNING
Page 1C-490-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
TRIMMING OUTBOARD “IN” (“DOWN”) CHARACTERISTICS
WARNING
Excessive speed at minimum trim “in” may cause undesirable and/or unsafe
steering conditions. Each boat should be tested for handling characteristics after
any adjustment is made to the angle (trim adjustment bolt relocation.)
1. Will help planing off, particularly with a heavy load.
2. Usually improves ride in choppy water.
3. In excess, can cause boat to veer to the left or right (bow steer).
4. Transfers steering torque harder to right (or less to the left) on single outboard installations.
5. Improves planing speed acceleration (by moving trim adjustment bolt one hole closer
to transom).
WATER ABSORPTION
It is imperative that all through hull fasteners be coated with a quality marine sealer at time
of installation. Water intrusion into the transom core and/or inner hull will result in additional boat weight (reduced boat performance), hull decay and eventual structural failure.
CAVITATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
VENTILATION
Cavitation is caused by water vapor bubbles forming either from a sharp edge or angle
on the gear case or from an irregularity in the propeller blade itself. These vapor bubbles
flow back and collapse when striking the surface of the propeller blade resulting in the erosion of the propeller blade surface. If allowed to continue, eventual blade failure (breakage) will occur.
Ventilation occurs when air is drawn from the water’s surface (excessive trim out angle)
or from the engine exhaust flow (wrong propeller/propeller hardware installed or gear
case labyrinth seal worn) into the propeller blades. These air bubbles strike the propeller
blade surface and cause erosion of the blade surface. If allowed to continue, eventual
blade failure (breakage) will occur.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1C-5
GENERAL INFORMATION
Engine
DETONATION
Detonation in a 2-cycle engine resembles the “pinging” heard in an automobile engine.
It can be otherwise described as a tin-like “rattling” or “plinking” sound.
Detonation is an explosion of an unburned portion of the fuel/air charge after the spark
plug has fired. Detonation creates severe shock waves in the engine, and these shock
waves often find or create a weakness: The dome of a piston, cylinder head/gasket, piston
rings or piston ring lands, piston pin and roller bearings.
A few of the most common causes of detonation in a marine 2-cycle application are as
follows:
•Over-advanced ignition timing.
•Use of low octane gasoline.
•Propeller pitch too high (engine RPM below recommended maximum range).
•Lean fuel mixture at or near wide-open-throttle.
•Spark plugs (heat range too hot – incorrect reach – cross-firing).
2. Diligent maintenance is applied to combat the detonation causes.
Engine Compression
Engine compression should be checked with engine block warm, throttle shutter wide
open, all spark plugs removed and using a fully charged battery . Normal compression for
all cylinders should be 1 10 to 130 psi (758.5 to 896.4 kPa). Cylinders should not vary more
than 15 psi (103.4 kPa) between one another. A variance of more than 15 psi would indicate the need for a power head inspection/disassembly.
51115
Page 1C-690-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Following Complete Submersion
Salt Water Submersion
Due to the corrosive effect of salt water on internal engine components, complete disassembly is necessary before any attempt is made to start the engine.
Submerged While Running
When an engine is submerged while running, the possibility of internal engine damage
is greatly increased. If, after engine is recovered and with spark plugs removed, engine
fails to turn over freely when turning flywheel, the possibility of internal damage (bent connecting rod and/or bent crankshaft) exists. If this is the case, the powerhead must be disassembled.
SUBMERGED ENGINE (FRESH WATER)
IMPORT ANT: Engine should be run within 2 hours after recovery, or serious internal damage may occur. If unable to start engine in this period, disassemble engine
and clean all parts. Apply oil as soon as possible.
NOTE: If sand has entered the air intake on the engine, do not attempt to the start the
engine. Sand will cause internal engine damage. disassembly is required to clean all internal engine components of sand.
GENERAL INFORMATION
1. Recover engine from water as quickly as possible.
2. Remove cowling.
3. Clean the exterior of the outboard with fresh water.
4. Dry all wiring and electrical components using compressed air.
5. Drain water from fuel system as follows:
a. Disconnect remote fuel hose from engine.
b. Remove drain plug from vapor separator and drain fuel/water. Reinstall plug after
draining.
c. Remove the fuel hose from bottom of port side fuel rail and drain fuel/water. Rein-
stall hose.
d. Remove the water separating fuel filter and empty contents.
6. Drain water from air compressor system as follows:
a. Dry or replace the air filter for the compressor.
b. Remove air outlet hose for the air compressor and drain water from compressor
and hose. Reinstall hose.
c. Remove the air hose from bottom of port side fuel rail and drain water. Reinstall
hose.
7. Drain water from engine as follows:
a. Remove air sensor from front of the air plenum. Tilt up the outboard and drain wa-
ter out of the air plenum through the air sensor mounting hole. Reinstall Sensor.
b. Remove spark plugs from engine.
c. Rotate flywheel manually to blow out any water from the cylinders.
d. Add approximately one ounce (30ml) of engine oil into each spark plug hole. Ro-
tate the flywheel manually several times to distribute the oil in the cylinders. Rein-
stall spark plugs.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1C-7
GENERAL INFORMATION
8. Drain water from the oil injection system as follows:
a. Remove remote oil hose (black without blue stripe) from pulse fitting on starboard
side of engine.
b. Drain any water from hose and reconnect.
c. If water was present in hose, check for water in the remote oil tank. Drain tank if
water is present.
9. Disassemble the engine starter motor and dry components.
10. Prime the oil injection pump as follows:
a. Fill the engine fuel system with fuel. Connect fuel hose and squeeze primer bulb
until it feels firm.
b. Turn the ignition key switch to the “ON” position.
c. Within the first 10 seconds after the key switch has been turned on, move the re-
mote control handle from neutral into forward gear 3 to 5 times. This will automatically start the priming process.
N
F
NOTE: Audible click from the oil pump will tell you the pump is priming. It may take a few
minutes for the pump to complete the priming process.
1 1. Attempt to start engine, using a fresh fuel source.If engine starts, it should be run for
at least one hour to eliminate any water in engine.
12. If engine fails to start, determine cause (fuel, electrical or mechanical).
Page 1C-890-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Model 135/150 DFI Powerhead Front View
12
11
GENERAL INFORMATION
10
13
1
9
7
6
2
8
5
4
1-High Pressure Electric Fuel Pump (Inside Vapor Separator)
2-Vapor Separator
3-Vapor Separator Drain Plug
4-Air Temperature Sensor
5-Fuel Hose Outlet from Low Pressure Electric Fuel Pump
6-Fuel Return Hose from Fuel Cooler
7-Electric Fuel Pump Harness Connection
8-Electric Oil Pump (Hidden)
9-Digital Diagnostic Terminal Harness Connection
10 - Crank Position Sensor Harness Connection
11 - Starter Motor
12 - Throttle Plate Assembly
13 - Fuel Hose Out to Fuel Rails (High Pressure)
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1C-9
3
57314
GENERAL INFORMATION
Model 135/150 DFI Powerhead Starboard View
24
23
25
2
4
1
11
3
12
18
17
13
16
15
5
20
14
6
22
19
21
10
1-Fuel Pressure Test Valve
2-Air Compressor Oil Return Line
3-Crank Position Sensor
4-Throttle Plate/Air Plenum Assembly
5-Digital Diagnostic Terminal Connector
6-Oil Hose from Oil Reservoir to Oil Pump
7-Oil Pump
8-Main Power Relay(1998 Model)*
9-Trim DOWN Relay
10 - Trim UP Relay (1998 Model)*
11 - Temperature Sensor
12 - Electronic Control Module
13 - Starter Motor
NOTE: *The location for 1999 Model Main Power Relay and T rim UP Relay are reversed.
1-High Pressure Electric Fuel Pump
2-Fuel Out (90 psi)
3-Crank Position Sensor
4-Fuel Return from Fuel Cooler
5-Water Out (tell-tale) from Air Compressor
6-Air Restrictor/Air Inlet to Air Compressor
7-Air Compressor
8-Air Pressure Out from Air Compressor
9-Temperature Sensor (Air Compressor)
10 - #2 Fuel Injector
11 - #4 Fuel Injector
12 - #6 Fuel Injector
13 - Excess Air to Adaptor Plate
14 - Water Inlet to Fuel Cooler from Adaptor Plate
15 - Port Fuel Rail
16 - Water Out to Poppet Valve
12 - MAP Sensor Hose
13 - Oil Return Hose from Air Compressor
14 - Starter Motor
15 - Oil Hose from Oil Pump to Air Compressor
16 - Serial Number Plug
17 - Fuel Pressure Test Valve
18 - Air Hose (80 PSI) to Fuel Rail
19 - Check Valve
20 - Air Compressor
21 - Starboard to Port Thermostat Hose
22 - Vent Canister
23 - Throttle Plate Adjustment Screw
Model 135/150 DFI Powerhead Aft View
GENERAL INFORMATION
26
25
28
2
4
1
5
3
6
7
18
9
8
19
27
21
17
20
11
10
24
16
23
22
14
1-Air Compressor Restrictor/Air Inlet
2-Water Out (tell-tale) from Air Compressor
3-Air Compressor Oil Inlet from Oil Pump
4-Air Compressor
5-Air Pressure Out (80 psi)
6-Fuel Pressure Test Valve
7-Check Valve
8-Excess Oil Return from Air Compressor
Avoid serious injury from flying debris. Avoid serious injury from airborne particles. Use eye and breathing protection with proper ventilation.
PROPELLERS
1. Sand the entire area to be painted with 3M 120 Regalite Polycut or coarse ScotchBrite, disc or belts.
2. Feather edges of all broken paint edges. Try not to sand through the primer.
3. Clean the surface to be painted using PPG Industries DX330 Wax and Grease Remover or equivalent (Xylene or M.E.K.).
4. If bare metal has been exposed, use Quicksilver’s Light Gray Primer.
5. Allow a minimum of 1 hour dry time and no more than 1 week before applying the finish
coat.
6. Apply the finish coat using Quicksilver’s EDP Propeller Black.
GEAR HOUSINGS
The following procedures should be used in refinishing gear housings. This procedure will
provide the most durable paint system available in the field. The materials recommended
are of high quality and approximate marine requirements. The following procedure will
provide a repaint job that compares with a properly applied factory paint finish. It is recommended that the listed materials be purchased from a local Ditzler Automotive Finish Supply Outlet. The minimum package quantity of each material shown following is sufficient
to refinish several gear housings.
Procedure:
1. Wash gear housing with a muriatic acid base cleaner to remove any type of marine
growth, and rinse with water, if necessary.
2. Wash gear housing with soap and water, then rinse.
3. Sand blistered area with 3M 180 grit sandpaper or P180 Gold Film Disc to remove
paint blisters only. Feather edge all broken paint edges.
4. Clean gear housing thoroughly with (DX-330) wax and grease remover.
5. Spot repair surfaces where bare metal is exposed with (DX-503) alodine treatment.
IMPORT ANT : Do not use any type of aerosol spray paints as the paint will not properly adhere to the surface nor will the coating be sufficiently thick to resist future
paint blistering.
6. Mix epoxy chromate primer (DP-40) with equal part catalyst (DP-401) per manufacturers instructions, allowing proper induction period for permeation of the epoxy primer and catalyst.
7. Allow a minimum of one hour drying time and no more than one week before top coating assemblies.
8. Use Ditzler Urethane DU9000 for Mercury Black, DU34334 for Mariner Grey, and
DU35466 for Force Charcoal, and DU33414M for Sea Ray White. Catalyze all four
colors with Ditzler DU5 catalyst mixed 1:1 ratio. Reduce with solvents per Ditzler label.
Page 1C-1490-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Be sure to comply with instructions on the label for ventilation and respirators.
Using a spray gun, apply one half to one mil even film thickness. Let dry , flash off
for five minutes and apply another even coat of one half to one mil film thickness.
This urethane paint will dry to the touch in a matter of hours, but will remain sensitive to scratches and abrasions for a few days.
9. The type of spray gun used will determine the proper reduction ratio of the paint.
IMPORTANT: Do not paint sacrificial zinc trim tab or zinc anode.
10. Cut out a cardboard “plug” for trim tab pocket to keep paint off of mating surface to
maintain good continuity circuitry between trim tab and gear housing.
Decal Application
Decal Removal
1. Mark decal location before removal to assure proper alignment of new decal.
2. Carefully soften decal and decal adhesive with a heat gun or heat blower while removing old decal.
GENERAL INFORMATION
CAUTION
3. Clean decal contact area with a 1:1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water.
4. Thoroughly dry decal contact area and check for a completely cleaned surface.
Instructions for “Wet” Application
NOTE: The following decal installation instructions are provided for a “Wet” installation.
All decals should be applied wet.
TOOLS REQUIRED
1. Plastic Squeegee*
2. Stick Pin
3. Dish Washing Liquid/Detergent without ammonia** “Joy” and “Drift” are known to
be compatible for this process.
** Automotive Body Filler Squeegee
** Do not use a soap that contains petroleum based solvents.
SERVICE TIP: Placement of decals using the “Wet” application will allow time to
position decal. Read entire installation instructions on this technique before proceeding.
TEMPERATURE
IMPORTANT: Installation of vinyl decals should not be attempted while in direct
sunlight. Air and surface temperature should be between 60°F (15°C) and 100°F
(38°C) for best application.
SURFACE PREPARATION
IMPORT ANT: Do not use a soap or any petroleum based solvents to clean application surface.
Clean entire application surface with mild dish washing liquid and water. Rinse surface
thoroughly with clean water.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1C-15
GENERAL INFORMATION
DECAL APPLICATION
1. Mix
NOTE: Leave protective masking, if present, on the face of decal until final steps of decal
installation. This will ensure that the vinyl decal keeps it’s shape during installation.
2. Place the decal face down on a clean work surface and remove the paper backing
3. Using a spray bottle, flood the entire “adhesive side” of the decal with the pre-mixed
4. Flood area where the decal will be positioned with wetting solution.
5. Position pre-wetted decal on wetted surface and slide into position.
6. Starting at the center of the decal, “lightly” squeegee out the air bubbles and wetting
7. Wipe decal surface with soft paper towel or cloth.
8. Wait 10 - 15 minutes.
9. Starting at one corner, “carefully and slowly” pull the masking of f the decal surface at
1
/2 ounce (16 ml) of dish washing liquid in one gallon (4 l) of cool water to use as
wetting solution.
from “adhesive side” of decal.
wetting solution.
solution with overlapping strokes to the outer edge of the decal. Continue going over
the decal surface until all wrinkles are gone and adhesive bonds to the cowl surface.
a 180° angle.
NOTE: T o remove any remaining bubbles, pierce the decal at one end of the bubble with
stick pin and press out the entrapped air or wetting solution with your thumb (moving toward the puncture).
Models Without Power Steering1D-17. . . . . . . . . . .
Models With Power Steering1D-17. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Installation Specifications
a
a
a – Transom Opening – Minimum
Single Engine – 33-3/8 in. (848 mm)
Dual Engines – 59-3/4 in. (1518 mm)
b – Engine Center Line For Dual Engine
26 in. (660mm) Minimum
Lifting Outboard
Electric Start Models – Remove plastic cap from flywheel hub. Thread lifting ring into
flywheel a minimum of 5 turns. Replace plastic cap after installation.
a
a
b
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1D-1
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
Installing Outboard to Boat Transom
Determining Recommended Outboard Mounting Height
26 in.
(660mm)
(635mm)
(609mm)
e
Outboard
Mounting
Height (See
NOTE Below)
(584mm)
(560mm)
e
(533mm)
(508mm)
(482mm)
NOTE: Add 5 in. (127mm) for XL models and 10 in. (254mm) for XXL models
to listed outboard mounting height.
25 in.
24 in.
23 in.
22 in.
21 in.
20 in.
19 in.
10
b
c
b
a
d
20304050607080
Maximum Boat Speed Anticipated
NOTICE TO INSTALLER:
1. The outboard should be mounted high enough on the transom so that the exhaust
relief hole will stay at least 1 in. (25.4 mm) above the water line when the engine is
running at idle speed. This will prevent exhaust restriction.
2. The mounting height (e) of the outboard must not exceed 25 in. (635 mm) for L models, 30 in. (762 mm) for XL models and 35 in. (889 mm) for XXL models. Mounting the
outboard higher may cause damage to the gear case components.
a. This solid line is recommended to determine the outboard mounting height. In-
creasing the height of outboard generally will provide the following: 1) Less steering torque, 2) more top speed, 3) greater boat stability , but, 4) will cause more prop
“break loose” which may be particularly noticeable when planing off or with heavy
load.
b. These broken lines represent the extremes of known successful outboard mount-
ing height dimensions.
c. This line may be preferred to determine outboard mounting height dimension, if
maximum speed is the only objective.
d. This line may be preferred to determine outboard mounting height dimension for
dual outboard installation.
e. Outboard mounting height (height of outboard transom brackets from bottom of
boat transom). For heights over 22 in. (560mm), a propeller, that is designed for
surfacing operation is usually preferred.
Page 1D-290-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Installing Outboard
Drilling Outboard Mounting Holes
1. Attach (tape) engine mounting template (located with the installation manual) to boat
transom.
IMPORTANT: If using “Transom Drilling Fixture” (part number 91-98234A2), use
drill guide holes marked “A” when drilling outboard mounting holes.
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
b
a
a-Centerline of Transom
b-Transom Drilling Fixture (91-98234A2)
2. Mark and drill four 17/32 in. (13.5mm) mounting holes.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1D-3
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
Securing Outboard To Boat Transom
1. Refer to “Determining Recommended Outboard Motor Mounting Height”, preceding
and Install outboard to the nearest recommended mounting height.
2. Fasten outboard with provided mounting hardware shown.
a
a-1/2 In. Diameter Bolts (4)
b-Flat Washers (4)
c-Locknuts (4)
d-Marine Sealer - Apply to Shanks of Bolts, Not Threads
Steering Cable
STARBOARD SIDE ROUTED CABLE
1. Lubricate O-ring seal and entire cable end.
b
c
b
c
a
d
95
95
Page 1D-490-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
2-4-C With Teflon (92-825407A12)
2. Insert steering cable into tilt tube.
3. Torque nut to 35 lb. ft. (47.5 N·m).
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
Steering Link Rod
1. Install steering link rod per illustration.
a-Special Bolt (10-90041) Torque to 20 lb-ft (27 N·m)
b-Nylon Insert Locknut (11-34863) Torque to 20 lb-ft (27 N·m)
c-Flat Washer (2)
d-Nylon Insert Locknut (11-34863) Tighten Locknut Until it Seats, Then Back
Nut Off 1/4 Turn
IMPORTANT: The steering link rod that connects the steering cable to the engine
must be fastened using special washer head bolt (“a” – Part Number 10-14000) and
self locking nuts (“b” & “c” – Part Number 11-34863). These locknuts must never
be replaced with common nuts (non locking) as they will work loose and vibrate
off freeing the link rod to disengage.
a
c
d
b
Disengagement of a steering link rod can result in the boat taking a full, sudden,
sharp turn. This potentially violent action can cause occupants to be thrown
overboard exposing them to serious injury or death.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1D-5
WARNING
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
Electrical, Hoses and Control Cables
IMPORTANT: Warning Horn Requirement – The remote control or key switch assembly must be wired with a warning horn. This warning horn is used with the engine warning system.
Installation Note
Open the front clamp assembly.
Remote Wiring Harness
1. Connect wiring. Place harness into the holder.
BLU/WHT
GRN/WHT
TAN
BRN/WHT
BLU/WHT
GRN/WHT
a
a-Power Trim Connections
Page 1D-690-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Warning Gauge Harness
Connect the harness extension to gauge and engine.
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
1
6
4
3
2
5
a
b
c
d
e
a
b
c
d
a-TAN/BLACK
b-TAN/WHITE
c-PINK/LT. BLUE to PINK/LT. BLUE
d-ORANGE
e-Connect PURPLE to 12 Volt Source or Adjacent Gauge
f-Sta-Straps – Fasten Wiring to Prevent Catching on Cowl
Connect a common ground cable (wire size same as engine battery cables) between
NEGATIVE (–) terminals on starting batteries.
c
(–)
d-Common Ground Cable
Page 1D-890-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
d
(–)
Shift Cable
Install cables into the remote control following the instructions provided with the remote
control.
NOTE: Install the shift cable to the engine first. The shift cable is the first cable to move
when the remote control handle is moved out of neutral.
COUNTER ROTATION OUTBOARDS
Counter rotating (left hand) gear cases can be identified by a “L” stamped into the end of
the propeller shaft.
The Quicksilver Dual Engine Console Mount Control, P/N 88688A22 or 88688A52, is required to shift the counter rotation outboard. The installation instructions shipped with the
control explain the procedure required to connect this control to a counter rotation outboard.
IMPORTANT: If the counter rotation outboard is rigged similar to a standard rotation outboard OR if a standard rotation outboard is rigged similar to a counter rotation outboard, the reverse gear and bearing in the gear case must function as forward gear. THE REVERSE GEAR/BEARING ARE NOT DESIGNED TO CARRY THE
SUST AINED LOADS THAT ARE GENERA TED WHEN RUNNING UNDER CONST ANT
HIGH RPM AND THRUST CONDITIONS.
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
OUTBOARD SHIFTING DIRECTION
On counter rotation outboards, the shift linkage moves in the opposite direction compared
to a standard rotation outboard.
STANDARD ROTATION GEAR OUTBOARDS
Forward Gear
COUNTER ROTATION OUTBOARDS
Reverse Gear
Reverse Gear
Forward Gear
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1D-9
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
Installation
IMPORTANT: Step 1 must be followed for proper adjustment of the shift cable.
1. Locate the center point of the slack or lost motion that exists in the shift cable as follows:
a. Move the remote control handle from neutral into forward and advance the handle
to full speed position. Slowly return the handle back to the neutral. Place a mark
(a) on the cable against the cable end guide.
b. Move the remote control handle from neutral into reverse and advance the handle
to full speed position. Slowly return the handle back to the neutral. Place a mark
(b) on the cable against the cable end guide.
c. Make a center mark (c), midway between marks (“a” and “b”). Align the cable end
guide against this center mark when installing cable to the engine.
STANDARD ROTATION OUTBOARDS
a
b
COUNTER ROTATION OUTBOARDS
c
a
b
c
Page 1D-1090-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
2. Position remote control and outboard into neutral.
N
3. Slide the shift cable retainer forward until resistance is felt, then slide cable anchor
toward rear until resistance is felt. Center the anchor pin between resistance points.
a
b
a-Shift Cable Retainer
b-Anchor Pin
4. Align the shift cable end guide with the center mark as instructed in Step 1.
5. Place shift cable on anchor pin. Adjust cable barrel so it slips freely into the barrel
holder.
6. Secure shift cable with shift cable retainer.
b
a
a-Cable Barrel
b-Shift Cable Retainer
7. Check shift cable adjustments as follows:
a. With remote control in forward, the propshaft should lock solidly in gear. If it does
not, adjust cable barrel closer to cable end guide.
b. Shift remote control into neutral. The propshaft should turn freely without drag. If
not, adjust barrel away from cable end guide. Repeat steps a and b.
c. Shift remote control into reverse while turning propeller. The propshaft should lock
solidly in gear. If not, adjust barrel away from cable end guide. Repeat steps a thru
c.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1D-11
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
d. Return remote control handle to neutral. The propeller should turn freely without
drag. If not, adjust barrel closer to cable end guide. Repeat steps a thru d.
Throttle Cable
INSTALLATION
1. Position remote control into neutral.
2. Attach throttle cable to the throttle lever. Secure with latch.
N
a
a-Latch
3. Adjust the cable barrel so that the installed throttle cable will hold the idle stop screw
against the stop.
a
a-Cable Barrel – Adjust To Hold Idle Stop Screw Against Stop
b-Idle Stop Screw
4. Check throttle cable adjustment as follows:
a. Shift outboard into gear a few times to activate the throttle linkage. Make sure to
rotate the propeller shaft while shifting into reverse.
F
N
R
b
Page 1D-1290-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
b. Return remote control to neutral. Place a thin piece of paper between idle adjust-
ment screw and idle stop. Adjustment is correct when the paper can be removed
without tearing, but has some drag on it. Readjust cable barrel if necessary.
IMPORTANT: The idle stop screw must be touching the stop.
a-Idle Stop Screw
b-Idle Stop
5. Lock the barrel holder in place with the cable latch.
Front Clamp Reassembly
IMPORT ANT: Sufficient slack must exist in engine wiring harness, battery cables,
fuel hose, and oil hoses routed between clamp and engine attachment point, to relieve stress and prevent hoses from being kinked or pinched.
a
b
1. Place the clamp over the wiring, hoses, and control cables as shown.
b
c
d
a
e
g
f
a-Battery Cables
b-Remote Wiring Harness
c-Warning Gauge Wiring Harness
d-Control Cables
e-Oil Hose with Blue Stripe
f-Fuel Hose
g-Oil Hose
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1D-13
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
2. Fasten clamp together with two screws.
a-Screws
Filling Fuel System
NOTE: For initial start of a new engine or for an engine that ran out of fuel, or was drained
of fuel, the fuel system should to be filled as follows:
a
•
Squeeze the fuel line primer bulb until it feels firm.
•
Turn the ignition key switch to the ON position for three seconds. This operates the
electric fuel pump.
•
Turn the ignition key switch back to the OFF position, and squeeze the primer bulb
again until it feels firm. T urn the ignition key switch to the “ON” position again for three
seconds. Continue this procedure until the fuel line primer bulb stays firm.
Oil Injection Set-Up
Filling
1. Fill remote oil tank with the recommended oil listed in the Operation and Maintenance
Manual. Tighten fill cap.
a
a-Fill Cap
Page 1D-1490-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
2. Remove cap and fill engine oil tank with oil. Reinstall the fill cap.
a-Engine Oil Tank
b-Fill Cap
Priming the Oil Injection Pump
Before starting engine for the first time, prime the oil injection pump. Priming will re-
move any air that may be in the pump, oil supply hose, or internal passages.
a
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
b
a
b
a-Oil Injection Pump
b-Oil Supply Hose
CAUTION
T o prevent damage to the fuel pumps, fill the engine fuel system with fuel. Otherwise the fuel pumps will run without fuel during the priming process.
Prime the oil injection pump as follows:
1. Fill the engine fuel system with fuel. Connect fuel hose and squeeze primer bulb until
it fells firm.
2. Turn the ignition key switch to the “ON” position.
3. Within the first 10 seconds after the key switch has been turned on, move the remote
control handle from neutral into forward gear 3 to 5 times. This will automatically start
the priming process.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 1D-15
N
F
OUTBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATION
NOTE: It may take a few minutes for the pump to complete the priming process.
Purging Air From the Engine Oil Tank
1. Loosen the fill cap on the engine oil tank.
2. Start the engine. Run the engine until the all the air has been vented out of the tank
and oil starts to flow out of the tank. Re-tighten fill cap.
a-Fill Cap
Trim “In” Angle Adjustment
Some outboard boats, particularly some bass boats, are built with a greater than normal
transom angle which will allow the outboard to be trimmed further “in” or “under”. This
greater trim “under” capability is desirable to improve acceleration, reduce the angle and
time spend in a bow high boat attitude during planing off, and in some cases, may be necessary to plane off a boat with aft live wells, given the variety of available propellers and
height range of engine installations.
a
However, once on plane, the engine should be trimmed to a more intermediate position
to a avoid a bow-down planing condition called “plowing”. Plowing can cause “bow steering” or “over steering” and inefficiently consumes horsepower . In this condition, if attempting a turn or encountering a diagonal, moderate wake, a more abrupt turn than intended
may result.
In rare circumstances, the owner may decide to limit the trim under. This can be accomplished by purchasing a stainless steel tilt pin (P/N 17-49930A1) and inserting it through
whatever pin hole is desired. The non-stainless steel shipping bolt should not be used in
this application other than on a temporary basis.
WARNING
Avoid possible serious injury or death. Adjust outboard to an intermediate trim
position as soon as boat is on plane to avoid possible ejection due to boat spinout. Do not attempt to turn boat when engine is trimmed extremely under or in.
a
Page 1D-1690-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Trim Tab Adjustment
Propeller steering torque may cause your boat to pull in one direction. This steering torque
results from your outboard not being trimmed so the propeller shaft is parallel to the water
surface. The trim tab can help compensate for this steering torque and can be adjusted
within limits to reduce any unequal steering effort.
Models Without Power Steering
Operate your boat at normal cruising speed, trimmed to desired position. Turn your boat
left and right and note the direction the boat turns more easily.
If adjustment is necessary, loosen trim tab bolt until trim tab moves freely (does not rub
against locking ridges). DO NOT strike tab to make adjustments. Make small adjustments
at a time. If the boat turns more easily to the left, move the trailing edge of trim tab to the
left. If the boat turns more easily to the right move the trailing edge of trim tab to the right.
Position trim tab in one of the locating grooves BEFORE tightening bolt to prevent damage to holding mechanism. Torque bolt to 40 lb-ft (54 Nm) and retest.
Models With Power Steering
Trim tab adjustment is not required. The trailing edge of the trim tab should be set straight
back.
Temperature Sensor Test (Refer to Chart page 2A-8)
Temperature Sensor(s)
Between Black and each TAN/BLK wire.No Continuity
Between each lead and groundNo Continuity
Direct Injector Test
Direct Injector Ohm Test (Injector Lead Disconnected)
Connect meter leads between each injector terminal pin.
Fuel Injector Test
1 - 1.6
Fuel Injector Ohm Test (Injector Lead Disconnected)
Connect meter leads between each injector terminal pin.
1.7 - 1.9
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2A-1
IGNITION
Special Tools
1. Digital Diagnostic Terminal (DDT) 91-823686A2
2. Software Cartridge 91-822608--5
3. DDT Reference Manual 90-825159-3
4. Adaptor Harness 84-822560A5
Page 2A-290-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
5. Multi-Meter/DVA Tester (91-99750A1)
6. Inductive Timing Light 91-99379
IGNITION
7. Spark Gap Tester 91-850439T
55117
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2A-3
IGNITION
Electrical Components
10
8
9
11
12
6Dielectric Grease (92-823506--1)
25
Liquid Neoprene (92-25711--2)
13
7
6
5
14
15
16
3
2
37
36
36
40
41
17
35
32
30
1
4
23
38
21
26
22
18
20
19
34
25
29
48
49
46
44
39
47
43
42
45
28
31
52
51
55
27
50
53
54
NOTE: COAT ALL EYELET WIRING TERMINALS WITH #25 GACO N700 (LIQUID NEOPRENE 92-25711-2)
NOTE: COA T ALL MUL TI-PIN ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS (EXCEPT POWER TRIM RELAY CONNECT ORS)
1ELECTRICAL MOUNTING PLATE
6IGNITION COIL
1HI-TENSION CABLE
6SPARK PLUG (HEAVY DUTY)2402027
6SPACER
6SCREW (1/4-20 x 3-1/4 IN.)
1MAP SENSOR
2SCREW (M6 x 14)354
1TUBING (31 IN.)
4SCREW (.312-18 x 1-1/4 IN.)23519.626.5
4WASHER
4GROMMET
4BUSHING
2SCREW-engine harness ground (M6 x 14)354
6WASHER
6NUT
1TRIM HARNESS
3RELAY
3DECAL-Trim Relay
3BRACKET
3BUSHING
3GROMMET
2SCREW (M6 x 25)354
1SCREW (M6 x 35)354
1BUSHING
2ST A STRAP
1ENGINE HARNESS
1HARNESS (SERVICE ITEM)
4FUSE
1BRACKET-Fuse Holder
2SCREW (M4 x 8)
1ECU (135)
1ECU (150)
1PAD
3SCREW (M6 x 25)708
6BUSHING
3GROMMET
2SCREW (M6 x 14)10011.5
1CLIP
1CLAMP
2SCREW (10-16 x 3/8 IN.)
1SOLENOID MOUNTING PLA TE
3SCREW (M6 x 12)15017
2SCREW (M6 x 14)354
1ST AR TER SOLENOID
2GROMMET
2SCREW (M6 x 25)354
1CABLE (BLACK)
2BUSHING
1BATTERY CABLE (POSITIVE)
2LOCKWASHER
2NUT (5/16-18)505.5
2NUT (10-32)80.9
1CABLE
1CAP NUT
TORQUE
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2A-5
IGNITION
Theory of Operation
When the ignition key is turned to the RUN position, battery voltage is applied to the main
relay through the PURPLE wire. When the Electronic Control Module (ECM) receives a
signal from the Crank Position Sensor, the main relay ground circuit is completed through
the ECM. The main relay is then closed and D.C. current from the battery or charging system is transferred through the main relay 20 Amp fuse to the positive terminal of all 6 ignition coil primary windings. The negative terminal of the coil primary is connected to engine
ground through the Electronic Control Module (ECM). When this circuit is closed, a magnetic field is allowed to be built up in the ignition coil. The Crank Position Sensor senses
the location of the 24 teeth on the flywheel and supplies a trigger signal to the ECM. When
the ECM receives this signal, the ECM will then open the ground circuit of the coil primary .
The magnetic field in the ignition coil primary will then collapse cutting across the coil secondary winding creating a high voltage charge (50,000 volts) that is sent to the spark plug.
Ignition Component Description
Electronic Control Module (ECM)
The ECM requires 8 VDC minimum to operate. If the ECM should fail, the engine will stop
running.
The inputs to the ECM can be monitored and tested by the Digital Diagnostic Terminal
91-823686A2 using adaptor harness 84-822560A5.
The ECM performs the following functions:
•Calculates the precise fuel and ignition timing requirements based on engine speed,
throttle position, manifold pressure and coolant temperature.
•Controls fuel injectors for each cylinder, direct injectors for each cylinder and ignition
for each cylinder.
•Controls all alarm horn and warning lamp functions.
•Supplies tachometer signal to gauge.
•Controls RPM limit function.
•Monitors shift interrupt switch.
•Records engine running information.
Page 2A-690-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Flywheel
Ignition Coils
IGNITION
24 teeth under the flywheel ring gear provide engine rpm and crankshaft position information to the ECM through the crank position sensor.
Inductive type ignition coils are used on the DFI engines.
Ignition Coil Ohm Test
Connect meter leads between primary terminal (GRN/Striped)
and ground (Black) terminal pin.
Connect meter leads between spark plug wire/high voltage
tower and ground terminal pin.
Crank Position Sensor
Senses 24 teeth located on flywheel under ring gear. Supplies the ECM with crank position information and engine speed. If sensor should fail, the engine will stop running.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Two (2) Throttle Position Sensors are used in conjunction with one another . If one sensor
should fail, the dash mounted CHECK ENGINE light will light and the warning horn will
sound. RPM will be limited to 3000 rpm. If both TPS’s should fail, rpm will be reduced to
idle by the ECM. TPS settings are not adjustable. TPS settings can be monitored with the
Digital Diagnostic Terminal through the ECM.
Charging System Alternator
Battery charging system is contained within the belt driven alternator, including the regulator. At cranking speeds, electrical power for the engine is provided by the boat battery
– minimum recommended size is 750 CCA, or 1,000 MCA, cold cranking amperes. Above
550 RPM, all electrical power is provided by the alternator. Should engine rpm drop below
550 RPM, the alternator is not capable of providing sufficient output and the battery becomes the primary source of electrical power.
Alternator output (when hot) to the battery @ 2000 RPM is approximately 33 - 38 amperes.
0.38 - 0.78
8.1 - 8.9 k
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2A-7
IGNITION
Temperature Sensor
Two (2) temperature sensors are used to provide cylinder head temperature information
to the ECM. One sensor is mounted in the starboard cylinder head and one in the air compressor cylinder head. The ECM uses this information to increase injector pulse width for
cold starts and to retard timing in the event of an over-heat condition.
An ohms test of the temperature sensor would be as follows:
Insert digital or analog ohmmeter test leads into both T AN/BLACK sensor leads. With en-
gine at temperature (F) indicated, ohm readings should be as indicated ±10%.
270
255
240
225
210
195
180
165
150
135
120
105
90
75
Temperature (F)
60
45
30
15
0
00.20.40.60.81.01.21.41.61.82.02.22.42.62.83.03.2
Temperature Sensor
Resistance (k)
Temperature Sensor(s)
Between Black and each TAN/BLK wire.No Continuity
Between each lead and groundNo Continuity
Page 2A-890-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
The MAP sensor is mounted between the cylinder heads. A vacuum hose connects the
map sensor to the intake manifold. The ECM regulates fuel flow, in part, based on manifold absolute pressure. Drawing a vacuum on the MAP sensor hose will create a lean fuel
condition.
Air Temperature Sensor
The air temperature sensor is mounted on the intake manifold. The ECM regulates fuel
flow, in part, based on manifold air temperature. As air temperature increases, the ECM
decreases fuel flow.
Direct Injectors
6 direct injectors (1 per cylinder) are used to inject a fuel/air mix into cylinders. Injectors
are mounted between fuel rails and cylinder heads.
Direct Injector Ohm Test (Injector Lead Disconnected)
IGNITION
Connect meter leads between each injector terminal pin.
1 - 1.6
Fuel Injectors
6 fuel injectors (1 per cylinder) are used to provide fuel from the fuel rail to the direct injectors. The fuel injectors are mounted in the fuel rail.
Fuel Injector Ohm Test (Injector Lead Disconnected)
Connect meter leads between each injector terminal pin.
1.7 - 1.9
Disconnecting Harness Connectors from Ignition Coils and/or Injectors
a
a-Wire Clip (push center down to remove)
Troubleshooting
The ECM is designed such that if a sensor fails, the ECM will compensate so that the engine does not go into an over-rich condition.
Disconnecting a sensor for troubleshooting purposes may have no noticeable effect.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2A-9
54871
IGNITION
Troubleshooting Without Digital Diagnostic Terminal
Troubleshooting without the DDT is limited to checking resistance on some of the sensors.
Typical failures usually do not involve the ECM. Connectors, set-up, and mechanical wear
are most likely at fault.
•Verify spark plug wires are securely installed (pushed in) into the coil tower.
•The engine may not run or may not run above idle with the wrong spark plugs installed.
•Swap ignition coils to see if the problem follows the coil or stays with the particular
cylinder.
NOTE: ECMs are capable of performing a cylinder misfire test to isolate problem cylinders. Once a suspect cylinder is located, an output load test on the ignition coil, fuel injector and direct injector may be initiated through use of the DDT.
•Any sensor or connection can be disconnected and reconnected while the engine is
operating without damaging the ECM. Disconnecting the crank position sensor will
stop the engine.
IMPORTANT: Any sensor that is disconnected while the engine is running will be
recorded as a Fault in the ECM Fault History . Use the DDT to view and clear the fault
history when troubleshooting/repair is completed.
•If all cylinders exhibit similar symptoms, the problem is with a sensor or harness input
to the ECM.
•If problem is speed related or intermittent, it is probably connector or contact related.
Inspect connectors for corrosion, loose wires or loose pins. Secure connector seating;
use dielectric compound 92-823506-1.
•Inspect the harness for obvious damage: pinched wires, chaffing.
•Secure grounds and all connections involving ring terminals (coat with Liquid Neo-
prene 92-25711--3).
•Check fuel pump terminals.
•Check fuel pump pressure.
•Check air compressor pressure.
Page 2A-1090-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Troubleshooting with the Digital Diagnostic Terminal
a
IGNITION
b
a-Digital Diagnostic Terminal (91-823686A2)
b-Software Cartridge (91-822608--4 or --5)
c-DDT Reference Manual (90-825159-3)
d-Adapter Harness (84-822560A5)
The Quicksilver Digital Diagnostic Terminal (DDT) has been developed specifically to
help technicians diagnose and repair Mercury Marine 2 and 4 cycle engines.
Attach the diagnostic cable to the ECM diagnostic connector and plug in the software cartridge. Y ou will be able to monitor sensors and ECM data values including status switches.
The ECM program can help diagnose intermittent engine problems. It will record the state
of the engine sensors and switches for a period of time and then can be played back to
review the recorded information.
c
d
Refer to the Digital Diagnostic T erminal Reference Manual for complete diagnostic procedures.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2A-1 1
IGNITION
Notes:
Page 2A-1290-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
IGNITION
Page 2A-13
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
DDT Functions – Optimax Models
Software Version 4.0 and 4.1
3.2-4.9v WOT
TPI1 LtBlu/Red IN
TPI2 LtBlu/Wht OUT
TGAP 0.025-.04in
PWR RLY 81-99 ohm
CTS max 220F
ACT max 150-220F
30-8000 ohm 1K@77F
AIR TMP .540-44
BATV 12.6-15.0
MAP 7-15 psi
FUEL 88-90 psi
AIR 77-81 psi
Text Book Data
(specs)
Monitors Engine Functions
While Engine is Running
SWITCH ACTIVE HIST
SHIFT SW ON NA
H2O FUEL NO NO
L OIL NO NO
PUMP ACTIVE HIST
OIL PMP PASS PASS
LIMIT ACTIVE HIST
CTS LIM OFF ON
CTP LIM OFF OFF
ACT LIM OFF OFF
TP1 LIM OFF OFF
TP2 LIM OFF OFF
RPM LIM OFF OFF
OIL LIM OFF ON
BAT LIM OFF OFF
BLK LIM OFF OFF
PWR LIM OFF OFF
STATUS BREAK-IN ENGINE IS IN
BREAK-IN MODE. xxx MINUTES
TO COMPLETION.
STATUS BREAK-IN ENGINE HAS
COMPLETED A FACTORY SCHEDULED BREAK-IN.
or
MISC. ACTIVE HIST
BATTERY PASS PASS
PWR RLY PASS PASS
PWR 1 V PASS PASS
PWR 2 V PASS PASS
HORN PASS PASS
LAMP PASS PASS
RPM 3000-3999 xx
RPM 4000-4999 xx
RPM 5000-5999 xx
RPM 6000+xx
BREAK IN Min xx
OVER TMP Secx
RPM LIMIT CNT x
RPM LIMIT SEC x
ACT TEMP SEC x
BLOCK PSI Sec x
CTS TMP Secx
CTP TMP Secx
OIL PMP Secx
ECM RUN TIME xx
RPM 0000-0999 xx
RPM 1000-1499 xx
RPM 1500-2999 xx
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Any fault in Select Status functions 1 thru 7 will turn
on the matching panel light.
*Illuminated panel light 8 Indicates engine is in Break-in.
*Key switch has to be ON for all Tests.
*Engine has to be running for Tests 1,2,3, and 7.
NOTE:Test data is lost when Key Switch is turned off.
Any existing faults from Tests 1 thru 6 are transferred
to Fault History.
1.1 Weak battery or bad starter
motor, battery voltage drops
below 8 volts while cranking
(ECM cuts out below 8 volts)
Replace/charge battery.
Inspect condition of starter motor.
Check condition of battery terminals and cables.
(Fuel pump requires 9 Volts).
1.2 Low air pressure in rail (less
than 70 psi at cranking
Inspect air system for leaks.
Inspect air filter for plugging (air
pressure measured on port rail).
Inspect air compressor reed valves
if necessary.
1.3 No fuelCheck that primer bulb is firm.
Key-on engine to verify that fuel
pump runs for 2 seconds and then
turn off. Measure fuel pressure
(valve on starboard rail). Fuel pressure should be 10 ± 1 psi greater
than the air pressure.
1.4 Low fuel pressureCheck fuel pressure from low pres-
sure electric fuel pump (6–10 psi).
Check for fuel leaks. If fuel pressure leaks down faster than air
pressure, seals on fuel pump may
be leaking. Check air system pressure, see 1.2.
1.5 Sheared Flywheel KeyRemove flywheel and inspect key.
1.6 Blown fuseReplace fuse. Inspect engine har-
ness and electrical components.
1.7 Main Power Relay not
functioning
Listen for relay to “click” when the
key switch is turned on.
1.8 Spark PlugsRemove fuel pump fuse.
Unplug all direct injector connectors.
Remove spark plugs from each
cylinder.
Connect spark plug leads to Spark
Gap Tester 91-830230T.
Crank engine or use DDT output
load test for each ignition coil and
observe spark. If no spark is present, replace appropriate ignition
coil. If spark is present, replace
spark plugs.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2A-15
IGNITION
DFI Troubleshooting Guide (continued)
SymptomCauseAction
1. Engine cranks but will not
start (continued)
1.9 ECM not functioningInjection System:
Listen for injector “ticking” when
cranking or connect spare injector
to each respective harness. Ticking should start after 2 cranking
revolutions.
Ignition System:
– Check for proper operation by
using Inductive Timing Light
91-99379.
– Check battery voltage
(RED/YEL Lead) @ ignition
coils.
– Check for blown fuse (C15).
– Check battery voltage to fuse
from main power relay
(PURPLE Lead).
– Check for shorted stop wire
(BLK/YEL).
– Check crank position sensor
setting [0.015 in. – 0.040 in.
(0.38mm – 1.01mm)] from
flywheel or for defective crank
position sensor.
– Defective ECM.
2. Engine cranks, starts and
stalls
Power Supply:
Clean and inspect remote control
male and female harness connectors.
2.0 Low air pressure in railSee 1.2
2.1 Low fuel pressure in railSee 1.2 and 1.3
2.2 Abnormally high friction in
engine
Check for scuffed piston or other
sources of high friction.
2.3 Air in fuel system/linesSee 1.3 Crank and start engine
several times to purge.
2.4 TPS malfunctionCheck motion of throttle arm. Stop
nuts should contact block at idle
and WOT. Check TPS set-up. Must
connect DDT with adapter harness
(84-822560A5) to ECM.
2.5 Remote control to engine
harness connection is poor
Clean and inspect male and female connectors.
Page 2A-1690-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
DFI Troubleshooting Guide (continued)
SymptomCauseAction
IGNITION
3. Engine idle is rough3.1 Low air pressure in rail (less
than 79 ± 2 psi while running)
3.2 Fouled spark plugReplace spark plug:
3.3 Failed direct injectorRefer to specifications for ohm
3.4 Failed fuel injectorRefer to specifications for ohm
3.5 Bad coil/weak sparkRefer to specifications for ohm
3.6 Flywheel key shearedRemove flywheel and inspect key.
4. Engine idles fast (RPM
>700) or surges
4.1 Broken fuel pressure regulator
or tracker diaphragm
4.2 Fuel leakCheck for fuel entering induction
See 1.2
–If carbon bridges electrode gap
or if it is completely black.
–If it is not firing and is wet with
fuel.
Note: If spark plug is grey or completely black with aluminum specs,
this indicates a scuffed piston.
test.
test.
test.
Measure fuel pressure. Remove
and inspect diaphragms (a special
tool is required for assembly).
manifold or air compressor inlet.
Fuel pump diaphragm leaking and/
or Vapor Separator flooding over.
5. Engine runs rough below
3000 rpm
6. Engine runs rough above
3000 rpm
4.3 Tracker Valve spring missingInspect tracker valve for proper as-
5.3 Throttle misadjustedCheck throttle cam setup on induc-
tion manifold. Inspect linkage and
roller.
If throttle plate stop screws have
been tampered with, contact Mercury Marine Service Department
for correct adjustment procedures.
If one (1) TPS fails rpm is
reduced to 3,000. If both TPSs
fail, rpm is reduced to idle
8.1 Both TPSs failed
8.2 Battery voltage below 9.5 volts
9.1 Loose wire or pin in connectors
between ECM and coil primary.
9.2 Faulty ignition coil.
9.3 Faulty spark plug.
9.4 Faulty spark plug wire
Note: Due to the long spark dura-
tion of this ignition system, the
DDT may indicate the incorrect cylinder as having an ignition fault.
Example: If the DDT indicates an
ignition fault on cylinder #4, the
problem may be on the prior cylinder in the firing order – I.E. cylinder
number #3.
If standard (original) battery cables are replaced with longer cables, the wire gauge size must increase. See
chart below for correct wire gauge size.
Wire Gage Size
Battery Cable Length
Battery Cable Wire Gage Size
Mercury/Mariner Outboards
Battery Cable Length
8 ft.
9 ft.
10ft.
1 1ft.
12ft.
13ft.
14ft.
15ft.
16ft.
17ft.
18ft.
19ft.
20ft.
21ft.
22ft.
23ft.
2.4m
2.7m
3.0m
3.4m
3.7m
4.0m
4.3m
4.6m
4.9m
5.2m
5.5m
5.8m
6.1m
6.4m
6.7m
7.0m
Models Wire Gage Size No. SAE
6-25 Hp
30-1 15Hp#6*#4#4#4#4#4#2#2#2#2#2#2#2#2#0#0#0
#8*#8#6#6#6#6#4#4#4#4#4#4#4#4#2#2#2
24ft.
7.3m
125-250
Hp (ex-
cept DFI)
DFI
Models
* = Standard (original) Cable Length and wire gage size.
#6*#6#4#4#4#4#4#4#2#2#2#2#2#2#2
#4*#2#2#2#2#2#2#2#2#2#0#0#0
Replacement Parts
Electrical, ignition and fuel system components on your Mercury/Mariner outboard are designed and manufactured to comply with U. S. Coast Guard Rules
and Regulations to minimize risks of fire and explosions. Use of replacement
electrical, ignition or fuel system components, which do not comply with these
rules and regulations, could result in a fire or explosion hazard and should be
avoided.
Recommended Battery
A 12 volt marine battery with a minimum Cold Cranking amperage rating of 750 amperes
or 1000 (minimum) Marine Cranking amperes should be used.
WARNING
Page 2B-290-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Special Tools
1. Volt/Ohm Meter 91-99750A1or DMT 2000 Digital Tachometer Multimeter
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
91-854009A1
a
a-Volt/Ohm Meter 91-99750A1
b-DMT 2000 Digital Tachometer Multimeter 91-854009A1
2. Ammeter (60 Ampere minimum) (Obtain locally)
3. Flywheel Holder 91-52344
4. Protector Cap 91-24161
5. Flywheel Puller 91-73687A1
b
54964
Battery
Precautions
If battery acid comes in contact with skin or eyes, wash skin immediately with a
mild soap. Flush eyes with water immediately and see a doctor.
When charging batteries, an explosive gas mixture forms in each cell. Part of this gas escapes through holes in vent plugs and may form an explosive atmosphere around battery
if ventilation is poor. This explosive gas may remain in or around battery for several hours
after it has been charged. Sparks or flames can ignite this gas and cause an internal explosion which may shatter the battery.
The following precautions should be observed to prevent an explosion.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2B-3
CAUTION
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
1. DO NOT smoke near batteries being charged or which have been charged very
recently.
2. DO NOT break live circuits at terminals of batteries because a spark usually occurs
at the point where a live circuit is broken. Always be careful when connecting or disconnecting cable clamps on chargers. Poor connections are a common cause of electrical arcs which cause explosions.
3. DO NOT reverse polarity of battery terminal to cable connections.
Charging a Discharged Battery
Hydrogen and oxygen gases are produced during normal battery operation or
charging. Sparks or flame can cause this mixture to ignite and explode, if they are
brought near the vent openings. Sulphuric acid in battery can cause serious
burns, if spilled on skin or in eyes. Flush or wash away immediately with clear water.
The following basic rule applies to any battery charging situation:
1. Any battery may be charged at any rate (in amperes) or as long as spewing of electrolyte (from violent gassing) does not occur and for as long as electrolyte temperature
does not exceed 125° F (52° C). If spewing of electrolyte occurs, or if electrolyte temperature exceeds 125° F, charging rate (in amperes) must be reduced or temporarily
halted to avoid damage to the battery.
WARNING
2. Battery is fully charged when, over a 2-hour period at a low charging rate (in amperes),
all cells are gassing freely (not spewing liquid electrolyte), and no change in specific
gravity occurs. Full charge specific gravity is 1.260-1.275, corrected for electrolyte
temperature with electrolyte level at 3/16 in. (4.8 mm) over plate, unless electrolyte
loss has occurred (from age or over-filling) in which case specific gravity reading will
be lower. For most satisfactory charging, lower charging rates in amperes are recommended.
3. If, after prolonged charging, specific gravity of at least 1.230 on all cells cannot be
reached, battery is not in optimum condition and will not provide optimum performance; however, it may continue to provide additional service, if it has performed satisfactorily in the past.
4. T o check battery voltage while cranking engine with electric starting motor , place RED
(+) lead of tester on POSITIVE (+) battery terminal and BLACK (–) lead of tester on
NEGA TIVE (–) battery terminal. If the voltage drops below 9-1/2 volts while cranking,
the battery is weak and should be recharged or replaced.
Winter Storage of Batteries
Battery companies are not responsible for battery damage either in winter storage or in
dealer stock if the following instructions are not observed:
1. Remove battery from its installation as soon as possible and remove all grease, sulfate and dirt from top surface by running water over top of battery . Be sure, however ,
that vent caps are tight beforehand, and blow off all excess water thoroughly with compressed air. Check water level, making sure that plates are covered.
Page 2B-490-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
2. When adding distilled water to battery , be extremely careful not to fill more than 3/16
in. (4.8 mm) above perforated baffles inside battery . Battery solution or electrolyte expands from heat caused by charging. Overfilling battery will cause electrolyte to overflow (if filled beyond 3/16″ above baffles).
3. Grease terminal bolts well with 2-4-C Marine Lubricant and store battery in a COOLDRY place. Remove battery from storage every 30-45 days, check water level and
put on charge for 5 or 6 hours at 6 amperes. DO NOT FAST CHARGE.
4. If specific gravity drops below 1.240, check battery for reason and recharge. When
gravity reaches 1.260, discontinue charging. T o check specific gravity , use a hydrometer, which can be purchased locally.
5. Repeat preceding charging procedure every 30-45 days, as long as battery is in storage, for best possible maintenance during inactive periods to ensure a good serviceable battery in spring. When ready to place battery back in service, remove excess
grease from terminals (a small amount is desirable on terminals at all times), recharge
again as necessary and reinstall battery.
Flywheel Removal and Installation
Removal
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
1. Remove flywheel cover from engine.
WARNING
Engine could possibly start when turning flywheel during removal and installation; therefore, disconnect (and isolate) spark plug leads from spark plugs to prevent engine from starting.
2. Disconnect spark plug leads from spark plugs.
3. While holding flywheel with flywheel holder (91-52344), remove flywheel nut and
washer.
a
a-Flywheel Holder (91-25344)
4. Install a crankshaft Protector Cap (91-24161) on end of crankshaft, then install Flywheel Puller (91-73687A2) into flywheel.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2B-5
57415
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
5. Hold flywheel tool with wrench while tightening bolt down on protector cap. Tighten
bolt until flywheel comes free.
a-Flywheel Puller (91-73687A2)
NOTE: Neither heat or hammer should be used on flywheel to aid in removal as damage
to flywheel or electrical components under flywheel may result.
a
57413
Installation
6. Remove flywheel. Inspect flywheel for cracks or damage.
IMPORTANT: Do not apply grease to the flywheel taper or corresponding crankshaft splines. The application of grease to these areas will result in flywheel hub
breakage when tightening flywheel nut.
1. Install flywheel.
2. Install flywheel washer and nut.
3. Hold flywheel with Flywheel Holder (91-52344). Torque nut to 125 lb-ft (169.5 Nm).
The following precautions must be observed when working on the alternator system. Failure to observe these precautions may result in serious damage to the alternator system.
1. Do not attempt to polarize the alternator.
2. Do not short across or ground any of the terminals on the alternator, except as specifically instructed.
3. Never disconnect the alternator output lead, regulator harness or battery cables when
the alternator is being driven by the engine.
4. Always remove NEGA TIVE (–) battery cable from battery before working on alternator
system.
5. When installing battery , be sure to connect the NEGA TIVE (–) (GROUNDED) battery
cable to NEGA TIVE (–) battery terminal and the POSITIVE (+) battery cable to POSITIVE (+) battery terminal.
b
51708
6. When using a charger or booster battery, connect it in parallel with existing battery
(POSITIVE to POSITIVE; NEGATIVE to NEGATIVE).
Page 2B-1090-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Alternator Description
The alternator employs a rotor, which is supported in 2 end frames by ball bearings, and
is driven at 2.5 times engine speed. The rotor contains a field winding enclosed between
2 multiple-finger pole pieces. The ends of the field winding are connected to 2 brushes
which make continuous sliding contact with the slip rings. The current (flowing through
the field winding) creates a magnetic field that causes the adjacent fingers of the pole
pieces to become alternate north and south magnetic poles.
A 3-phase stator is mounted directly over the rotor pole pieces and between the 2 end
frames. It consists of 3 windings wound 120° electrically out-of-phase on the inside of a
laminated core. The windings are connected together on one end, while the other ends
are connected to a full-wave rectifier bridge.
The rectifier bridge contains 8 diodes which allows current to flow from ground, through
the stator and to the output terminal, but not in the opposite direction.
When current is supplied to the rotor field winding, and the rotor is turned, the movement
of the magnetic fields created induces an alternating current into the stator windings. The
rectifier bridge changes this alternating current to direct current which appears at the output terminal. A diode trio is connected to the stator windings to supply current to the regulator and the rotor field during operation.
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
Voltage output of the alternator is controlled by a transistorized voltage regulator that
senses the voltage at the battery and regulates the field current to maintain alternator voltage for properly charging the battery . Current output of the alternator does not require regulation, as maximum current output is self-limited by the design of the alternator. As long
as the voltage is regulated within the prescribed limits, the alternator cannot produce excessive current. A cutout relay in the voltage regulator also is not required, as the rectifier
diodes prevent the battery from discharging back through the stator.
A small amount of current is supplied by the excitation circuit in the regulator to the rotor
field to initially start the alternator charging. Once the alternator begins to produce output,
field current is supplied solely by the diode trio.
The alternator is equipped with 2 fans which induce air flow through the alternator to remove heat created by the rectifier and stator.
Diagnosis of Alternator System on Engine
1. If problem is an undercharged battery , verify condition has not been caused by excessive accessory current draw or by accessories which have accidentally been left on.
2. Check physical condition and state of charge of battery . Battery must be at least 75%
(1.230 specific gravity) of fully charged to obtain valid results in the following tests. If
not, charge battery before testing system.
3. Inspect entire alternator system wiring for defects. Check all connections for tightness
and cleanliness, particularly battery cable clamps and battery terminals.
IMPORTANT: RED output lead from alternator must be tight. A darkened RED
sleeve indicates lead was loose and becoming hot.
4. Check alternator drive belt for cracks and fraying. Replace if necessary. Check belt
tension. Adjust if necessary , as outlined under “Drive Belt Replacement and Adjust-ment.”
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2B-1 1
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
Alternator Assembly
j
j
g
g
f
f
i
i
e
h
h
e
d
d
a-Pulley Nut
b-Pulley
c-Spacer
d-Frame and Rotor Assembly
e-Brush Holder
Using a 0-20 volt DC voltmeter, perform the following tests:
Output Circuit
1. Connect POSITIVE (+) voltmeter lead to alternator terminal B (output terminal). Connect NEGATIVE (–) lead to case ground on alternator.
2. Shake alternator wiring harness. Meter should indicate battery voltage and should not
vary. If proper reading is not obtained, check for loose or dirty connections or damaged wiring.
20
30
15
40
10
60
5
OHMS
0
100
200
30
102010
15
40
5
20
6
0
8
4
0
2
10
VOLTS
0
DC AMPS
DCV
ACV
DVA
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
a
a
Sensing Circuit
1. Unplug RED and PURPLE lead connector from alternator.
2. Connect POSITIVE (+) voltmeter lead to RED lead and NEGA TIVE (–) voltmeter lead
3. Voltmeter should indicate battery voltage. If correct voltage is not present, check
56113
a-Terminal B
to ground.
sensing circuit (RED lead) for loose or dirty connections or damaged wiring.
a
a
a-Sense Lead (RED)
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2B-13
56114
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
Voltage Output
1. Using a 0-20 volt DC voltmeter, connect POSITIVE (+) lead of voltmeter to TERMINAL
B of alternator and NEGATIVE (–) lead of voltmeter to engine ground.
2. Start engine and allow to warm up. Increase engine RPM from idle to 2000. Normal
voltage output should be 13.5 – 15.1 volts. If voltage reading is greater than normal,
replace voltage regulator.
3. If voltage reading is less than normal, fabricate a tool from a piece of stiff wire to the
following specifications:
20
30
15
10
40
60
5
OHMS
100
0
40
200
30
102010
15
5
20
10
DVA
DCV
468
2
VOLTS
0
DC AMPS
ACV
0
0
a
a
0.060 in. (1.52 mm)
13/16 in. (20.6 mm)
8 in. (203 mm)
56113
a-Terminal B
4. Insert bent end of tool through end cover and ground TERMINAL F.
b
b
152030
40
60
OHMS
100
200
20
30
10
10
15
5
6
8
4
0
0
2
VOLTS
0
DC AMPS
ACV
a
a
51683
a
a
c
c
DCV
10
5
0
40
20
10
DVA
56115
a-Terminal F
b-Tool
c-Jumper Wire to Engine Ground (Attach to end of Tool)
5. With TERMINAL F grounded, voltage should rise to within the normal range (13.5 –
15.1). If voltage rises, replace the regulator.
6. If the voltage DOES NOT rise to within the normal range with TERMINAL F grounded,
perform “CURRENT OUTPUT” test.
Page 2B-1490-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Current Output
1. With engine shut off, install ammeter (capable of reading 60+ amperes) in series be-
2. Start engine and allow to warm up. Advance RPM to 2000.
3. Insert tool, previously fabricated for VOLTAGE OUTPUT, through end cover and
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
tween TERMINAL B on alternator and POSITIVE (+) terminal of battery.
ground TERMINAL F.
c
d
a
Repair
Removal
b
a-Terminal F
b-Tool
c-Jumper Wire to Engine Ground
d-Terminal B
e-Ammeter
4. Normal output is 60 amperes @ 2000 RPM. If output is normal, replace regulator. If
output is low, a disassembly of the alternator is necessary to inspect and test individual components.
1. Remove top cowling.
2. Disconnect battery cables from battery.
3. Disconnect wiring harness from alternator.
4. Remove pivot bolt and tension bolt.
e
a
a
56116
a-Attaching Bolt
b-Harnesses
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2B-15
b
a
a
b
56117
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
Disassembly and Test
1. Remove 3 screws and nut securing end cover and remove insulator and cover.
2. Remove 5 screws securing regulator and brush assembly.
c
c
d
d
b
b
g
e
a
g
b
f
a
a
a-Cover
b-Screws
c-Nut
d-Insulator
e-Regulator
f-Brush Assembly
g-Screws
51683
NOTE: Proper regulator operation can be determined by VOL T AGE OUTPUT and CURRENT OUTPUT, previous. If regulator does not meet specifications, replace regulator.
Torque regulator screws to 17 lb-in (2 Nm).
NOTE: Brushes are replaced as an assembly . Inspect assembly for stuck brushes or ex-
cessive brush wear. Normal exposed brush length is 0.156 in. (4.0 mm). Minimum exposed brush length is 0.059 in. (1.5 mm).
3. Remove 4 screws securing rectifier (diode assembly) to alternator.
51680
a-Screws
b-Rectifier (Diode Assembly)
Page 2B-1690-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
a
b
b
51684
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
NOTE: T o test rectifier assembly , touch POSITIVE (+) lead from ohmmeter to POSITIVE
stud and NEGATIVE (–) lead from ohmmeter to each diode terminal. The ohmmeter
should indicate continuity.
a
a
c
c
a-Positive Stud
b-Positive Ohm Lead
c-Negative Ohm Lead
Reverse leads – NEGA TIVE lead on POSITIVE stud and POSITIVE lead on each diode
assembly . NO CONTINUITY should be observed. If continuity is observed in both tests,
or NO CONTINUITY is observed in both tests, the rectifier assembly is defective and must
be replaced. Torque rectifier screws to 17 lb-in (1.9 Nm).
b
b
51679
b
b
a-Positive Stud
b-Negative Ohm Lead
c-Positive Ohm Lead
IMPORTANT: Depending on the polarity of the ohmmeter, reversed readings may
be obtained – I.E. – CONTINUITY is observed when the NEGA TIVE lead touches the
POSITIVE stud and NO CONTINUITY is observed when the POSITIVE lead touches
the POSITIVE stud.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2B-17
c
c
a
a
51679
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
IMPORT ANT : The regulator , rectifier and brush assembly are the only components
individually replaceable on this alternator. If the rotor or stator is defective, the entire rotor, stator and housing must be replaced as an assembly.
IMPORT ANT: Clean anti-corrosion paint from electrical connections prior to reassembly. Coat all electrical connections with LIQUID NEOPRENE (92-25711-1).
Rotor Test
1. Inspect slip ring surface for roughness, abnormal wear and/or burning. If such conditions exist, rotor is not considered serviceable and alternator should be replaced.
2. Measure the outer diameter of the slip rings using vernier calipers. STANDARD DIAMETER: 0.567 in. (14.4 mm); MINIMUM DIAMETER: 0.551 in. (14 mm). If slip ring
diameter is less than minimum, rotor is not considered serviceable and alternator
should be replaced.
a
a
51684
51680
a-Slip Rings
3. Inspect rotor for an open circuit. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between slip
rings. Resistance should not exceed 3 ohms. If no continuity exists, rotor is defective.
4. Check rotor for short to ground. NO CONTINUITY should exist between slip rings and
rotor shaft. If CONTINUITY exists, rotor is defective.
a
a
a
a
b
b
a-Slip Rings
b-Rotor Shaft
Page 2B-1890-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
51682
51683
Stator Test
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
1. With rectifier removed, use an ohmmeter to check for a short circuit between each
stator lead and the stator frame. If CONTINUITY exists, stator is defective.
a
b
b
a
51682
a-Stator Leads
b-Frame
2. Inspect stator for open circuit. Using an ohmmeter, check for an open circuit between
each of the stator leads. If no continuity exists, stator is defective.
a
a
a
a
a-Stator Leads
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2B-19
51682
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
Reassembly
1. Position rectifier assembly over stator leads.
2. Form stator leads in a clockwise loop and secure leads to rectifier with 4 screws.
Torque screws to 17 lb-in (1.9 Nm).
3. Secure regulator to alternator with 2 screws [1 in. (25.4 mm) long]; 1 screw [0.25 in.
(6.4 mm) long] and lockwashers. DO NOT tighten screws at this time.
4. Secure brush assembly with 2 screws – [0.25 in. (6.4 mm) long] and [0.312 in. (8.0
mm) long].
c
f
e
b
c
c
a
a
a-Regulator
b-Screws [1 in. (25.4 mm)]
c-Screw [0.25 in. (6.4 mm)]
d-Brush Assembly
e-Screw [0.25 in. (6.4 mm)]
f-Screw [0.312 in. (8.0 mm)]
b
51684
d
a
51680
Page 2B-2090-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
5. Install end cover. Secure cover with 3 screws. Torque screws to 23 lb-in. (2.5 Nm).
Install terminal insulator. Torque nut to 36 lb-in (4 Nm).
d
d
c
c
b
b
a
a
51683
a-Cover
b-Screw [Torque to 23 lb-in (2.5 Nm)]
c-Terminal Insulator
d-Nut [Torque to 36 lb-in. (4 Nm)]
Pulley
1. While holding rotor shaft, remove pulley nut.
2. Before reinstalling pulley, verify spacer is installed on rotor shaft.
a
a
c
c
b
b
a-Pulley
b-Rotor Shaft
c-Nut
d-Spacer
51679
a
d
51683
3. Torque pulley nut to 50 lb-ft (68 Nm).
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2B-21
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
Installation
1. Secure alternator to engine block with attaching bolts. Torque top bolt to 40 lb-ft (54
Nm). Torque bottom bolt to 35 lb-ft (47.5 Nm).
2. Install alternator belt in V-groove of flywheel and alternator pulley.
3. Reconnect electrical harness to alternator.
a
a
c
c
b
b
a-Top Bolt [Torque to 40 lb-ft (54 Nm)]
b-Bottom Bolt [Torque to 35 lb-ft. (47.5 Nm)]
c-Harnesses
Alternator Belt Tension Adjustment
Correct alternator belt tension is maintained by a belt tensioner assembly.
56117
a
a
a-Belt Tensioner Assembly
Page 2B-2290-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
56142
Starter System
Starter Motor Amperes Draw
STARTER MOTORNO LOADNORMAL
PART NO.AMP. DRAWAMP. DRAW
50-833153-130 AMPS165 AMPS
Starter System Components
1. Battery
2. Starter Solenoid
3. Neutral Start Switch
4. Starter Motor
5. Ignition Switch
Description
The battery supplies electricity to activate the starter motor. When the ignition is turned
to the “ST ART” position, the starter solenoid is energized and completes the starter circuit
between the battery and starter.
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
The neutral start switch opens the starter circuit when the shift control lever is not in neutral thus preventing accidental starting when the engine is in gear.
CAUTION
The starter motor may be damaged if operated continuously. DO NOT operate
continuously for more than 30 seconds. Allow a 2 minute cooling period between
starting attempts.
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2B-23
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
REF
Starter Motor
4
3
5
1
14
2
15
10
17
6
7
8
9
15
14
18
14
.
NO.
11STARTER MOTOR
21DRIVE CAP
32THRU BOL T708
41DRIVE KIT
51PINION
61ARMATURE
71BRUSH/SPRING KIT
81BRUSH HOLDER
91COMMUT ATOR CAP
102SCREWDrive Tight
111LOCKWASHER
121NUT (1/4-20)354.0
131LOCKWASHER
141NUT (1/4-20)354.0
153SCREW (5/16-18 x 1-3/4)21017.524
161BATTERY CABLE (NEGATIVE)
171DECAL-Warning-High Voltage
181BOOT
2 Cycle Outboard Oil (92-826666A24)
QTY.DESCRIPTIONlb-inlb-ftNm.
13
16
12
11
7
TORQUE
Page 2B-2490-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
Troubleshooting the Starter Circuit
Before beginning the troubleshooting flow chart, verify the following conditions:
1. Confirm that battery is fully charged.
2. Check that control lever is in “NEUTRAL” position.
3. Check terminals for corrosion and loose connections.
4. Check cables and wiring for frayed and worn insulation.
5. Check 20 amp fuse.
Location of “Test Points” (called out in flow chart) are numbered below.
TO ALTERNA TOR
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
STARTER
BATTERY
20 AMP FUSE
5
5
4
4
IGNITION SWITCH
2
2
6
6
STARTER
SOLENOID
7
7
1
1
3
3
NEUTRAL ST ART SWITCH
(LOCATED IN CONTROL HOUSING)
90-855347R1 JANUARY 1999Page 2B-25
Starter Circuit
CHARGING & STARTING SYSTEM
Starter Circuit Troubleshooting Flow Chart
Starter Motor Does Not Turn
SAFETY WARNING: Disconnect yellow (starter motor)
cable from starter solenoid test point 1 BEFORE making
tests 1–thru–7 to prevent unexpected engine cranking.
TEST 1
Use an ohmmeter (Rx1 scale) and connect meter leads
between NEGATIVE (–) battery post and common powerhead ground.
No Continuity Indicated – There is an open circuit in the
BLACK NEGATIVE (–) battery cable between the NEGATIVE (–)
battery post and the powerhead.
• Check cable for loose or corroded connections.
• Check cable for open.
Test 2
No voltage reading:
proceed to TEST 3.
a. Disconnect BLACK ground wire(s) from Test Point 2.
b. Connect voltmeter between common engine ground and Test Point 2.
c. Turn ignition key to “Start” position.
TEST 3
a. Reconnect BLACK ground wire.
b. Connect voltmeter between common engine ground and Test Point 3.
c. Turn ignition key to “Start” position.
No voltage reading:
proceed to Step 4
12 Volt Reading
Defective starter solenoid
TEST 4
a. Connect voltmeter between common
No voltage reading:
proceed to Test 5
engine ground and Test Point 4.
b. Turn ignition key to “Start” position.
Continuity Indicated
Proceed to TEST 2
12 Volt Reading*
Check BLACK ground wire for poor connection
or open circuit.
Reconnect ground wire to starter solenoid.
Proceed to TEST 7.
12 Volt Reading*
Neutral start switch is open or YELLOW/RED
wire is open between Test Points 4 and 3.
TEST 5
No voltage reading:
proceed to Test 6
Connect voltmeter between common
engine ground and Test Point 5
TEST 6
Check for voltage between common engine ground and Test Point 6.
No voltage reading:
Check RED wire between battery(+)
POSITIVE terminal and Test Point 6.
Page 2B-2690-855347R1 JANUARY 1999
12 Volt Reading*
Defective ignition switch.
12 Volt Reading*
Check fuse in RED wire between Test
Points 5 and 6.
Check for open RED wire between Test
Points 5 and 6.
*Battery Voltage
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