All features and specifications subject to change without notice. Lowrance Electronics
may find it necessary to change or end our shipping policies, regulations, and special
offers at any time. We reserve the right to do so without notice. All screens in this manual
are simulated.
INTRODUCTION
The X-75 and X-85 are the latest members of the Lowrance family that
combines a high performance sonar with a wide, high definition screen.
Using menu features and “soft-key” operation, these units are also easy to
use. The wide screen shows the underwater world with high resolution and
detail. The display and keyboard are also lighted for night operation. They
have digital boat speed, surface water temperature, and distance travelled
(log) screens. (Requires optional ST-TBK speed/temperature sensor for
both speed and temperature screens.)
The optional SAM-50HPD gives these units 50 kHz capability.The 3000
watt transmitter in the SAM-50HPD plus the low frequency gives the units
far more depth penetration. This, along with the wider cone angle transducers, makes 50 kHz operation ideal for ocean and Great Lakes use.
SPECIFICATIONS
Dimensions................................................ 4.94"H x 6.10"W x 2.71"D
Transmitter Frequency .............................. 192 kHz
Install the unit in any convenient location, provided there is clearance
behind the unit when it is tilted for the best viewing angle. Holes in the
bracket base allow wood screw or through-bolt mounting. You may need
to place a piece of plywood on the back of thin fiberglass panels to secure
the mounting hardware. Make certain there is enough room behind the unit
to attach the power and transducer cables.
The gimbal bracket will also accept the GBSA-1 swivel bracket adapter
that lets you rotate the unit a full 360°.
The smallest hole that allows one power or transducer connector to pass
through is 3/4". After the hole is drilled, push the transducer connector up
through the hole first, then drop the power cable down through it.
After the cables have been routed, fill the hole with a good marine sealing
compound. Offset the bracket to cover the hole. Route the power cable
through the slot. Break out one of the holes in the back of the bracket for
the transducer cable.
FRONT
POWER CONNECTIONS
The unit works from a twelve-volt battery system. For the best results,
attach the power cable directly to the battery. You can attach the power
cable to an accessory or power buss, however you may have problems
with electrical interference. Therefore, it’s safer to go ahead and attach the
power cable directly to the battery. If the cable is not long enough, splice
#18 gauge wire onto it. The power cable has two wires, red and black. Red
is the positive lead, black is negative or ground. Make certain to attach the
in-line fuse holder to the red lead
as close to the power source as possible.
For example, if you have to extend the power cable to the battery or power
buss, attach one end of the fuse holder directly to the battery or power buss.
This will protect both the unit and the power cable in the event of a short.
It uses a 3-amp fuse.
IMPORTANT!
Do not use this product without a 3-amp fuse wired into the power cable!
Failure to use a 3-amp fuse will void your warranty.
If you’re installing a speed/temperature sensor, read it's mounting instructions. Route the sensor’s cable to the power cable and plug it into the
connector marked “SPEED/TEMP CABLE”
To Sonar
Unit
POWER CONNECTIONS
RED
WIRE
TO SPEED/TEMP
OR TEMP SENSORS
(Not included)
BLACK
WIRE
12 VOLT
BATTERY
3 amp
FUSE
SPEED/TEMPERATURE SENSORS
This unit accepts up to three temperature sensors which can monitor
surface water, live well, air, and virtually any other temperature. You do
need to be careful when purchasing the temperature sensors, however.
Each temperature sensor has its own "address". The sensors are labeled
"Water", "T-2" (or Temp-2), and "T-3" (or Temp-3). If you want two (or
more) temperature readings, you'll need to use the proper sensors. For
example, you can't use two T-3 sensors. The sensors that will fit these units
are:
TS-1BKOne sensor for "Water" temperature display.
TS-2BKOne sensor for "T-2" temperature display.
TS-3BKOne sensor for "T-3" temperature display.
TS-12BKTwo sensors for "Water" and "T-2" temperature displays.
ST-TBKOne speed sensor and one temperature sensor for
"Speed" and "Water" displays.
You can combine these sensors in many combinations. See the list on the
following page for temperature and speed sensor combinations.
Sensor Chart
(Note: Do not use these sensors in any other combination.)
ST-TBK = 1 speed sensor and 1 temperature display
ST-TBK + TS-2BK = 2 temp sensors and one speed sensor
ST-TBK + TS-2BK + TS-3BK = 3 temp sensors and one speed sensor
TS-1BK = 1 temperature sensor
TS-12BK = 2 temperature sensors
or
TS-1BK + TS-2BK = 2 temperature sensors
TS-12BK + TS-3BK = 3 temperature sensors
or
TS-1BK + TS-2BK +TS-3BK = 3 temperature sensors
Here's some sample wiring diagrams:
Two Temperature Sensors
(Water and T-2)
TS-12 BK
POWER CABLE
TS-3 BK
TS-12 BK
Three Temperature Sensors
(Water, T-2, and T-3)
POWER CABLE
ST-TBK
Three Temperature Sensors
plus Speed
(Water, T-2, T-3, and Speed)
TS-2 BK
TS-3 BK
POWER CABLE
LOWRANCE
192 kHz TRANSDUCER
CONNECTORS
The diagram above shows the three connectors on the back of the sonar
unit. Looking at the back of the unit, the 192 kHz transducer connector is
at the far left. Plug the 192 kHz transducer in here. The center connector
is for the power cable. The connector at the far right is for a serial cable that
is included with the SAM-50HPD. This is the cable that allows the SAM to
communicate with the sonar unit. See the SAM-50HPD's installation
manual for more information.
POWERTO SAM-50HPD
(NOT INCLUDED)
Transducer Installation
Some of the models covered by this manual have a transom-mount
transducer included. There two different transducers that could be
packed with your unit. One is a 20° cone angle "Skimmer" transducer
that can be mounted on the transom or epoxied inside certain boats to
"shoot-thru" the hull. The other transducer is an 8° cone angle "Skimmer" transducer that is transom-mounted only.
The 8° transducer has a “kick-up” mounting bracket helps prevent damage if the transducer strikes an object while the boat is moving. If the
transducer does “kick-up”, the bracket can easily be pushed back in
place without tools.
Read this manual carefully before attempting the installation. Determine
which of the mounting positions is right for your boat. Use extreme care
if mounting the transducer inside the hull, since once it is epoxied into
position, the transducer usually cannot be removed. Remember, the
transducer location is the most critical part of a sonar installation.
Location - General - All Transducers
1. The transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of
water at all times. If the transducer is to be mounted inside the hull,
then the chosen location must be in the water at all times. If the
transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of water, interference will
show on the sonar’s display in the form of random lines or dots
whenever the boat is moving.
2. The transducer should be installed with it’s face pointing straight
down, if possible.
3. If the transducer is mounted on the transom, make certain it doesn’t
interfere with the trailer or hauling of the boat. Also, don’t mount it
closer than approximately one foot from the engine’s lower unit. This
will prevent cavitation interference with the propeller. Typically, the
transducer should be mounted as deep in the water as possible. This
increases the chance that it will be in the water in high speed and
reduces the possiblity of air bubble interference.
4. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the
boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps, and areators
can be displayed on the sonar’s screen. Use caution when routing
the transducer cable around these wires.
Shoot-thru-hull v.s. Transom Mounting
(20° Transducer Only)
Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability. There is no possibility of
damage from floating objects. It can't be knocked off when docking or
loading on the trailer.
However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks. One,
some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This varies
from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same hull. This
is caused by differences in hull layup and construction. Two, the angle
of the transducer cannot be adjusted for the best fish arches. This can
be a problem on some hulls that sit with the bow high when at rest or at
slow trolling speeds. Follow the procedure listed in the shoot-thru-hull
installation section in this manual to determine if you can satisfactorily
shoot through the hull.
Transducer Assembly and Mounting - 20° Transducer Only
The best way to install this transducer is to loosely assemble all of the
parts first, place the transducer’s bracket against the transom and see if
you can mov e the transducer so that it’s parallel with the ground.
1. Press the two small plastic ratchets into the sides of the metal brac ket
as shown below. Notice there are letters molded into each ratchet.
Place each ratchet into the brack et with the letter “A” aligned with the
dot stamped into the metal brack et. This position sets the tr ansducer’s
coarse angle adjustment for a fourteen (14) degree transom. Most
outboard and stern-drive transoms have a f ourteen degree angle.
DOT
2. Slide the transducer between the two ratchets. Temporally slide the
bolt though the transducer assembly and hold it against the transom.
Looking at the transducer from the side, chec k to see if it will adjust so
that its face is parallel to the ground. If it does, then the “A” position is
correct for y our hull. If the tr ansducer’s f ace isn’t parallel with the ground,
remove the transducer and r atchets from the bracket. Place the ratchets into the holes in the brack et with the letter “B” aligned with the dot
stamped in the brack et. Reassemble the transducer and bracket and
place them against the transom. Again, chec k to see if y ou can mo v e
the transducer so it’s parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to
step 3. If it doesn’t, repeat step 2, but use a different letter until y ou can
place the transducer on the transom correctly.
RATCHETS
3. Once you determine the correct position for the ratchets, assemble
the transducer as shown at left. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time .
METAL
NUT
WASHER
RUBBER
WASHERS
METAL
WASHER
BOLT
CAUTION!CAUTION!
CAUTION!
CLAMP THE TRANSDUCER CABLE TOCLAMP THE TRANSDUCER CABLE TO
CLAMP THE TRANSDUCER CABLE TO
CLAMP THE TRANSDUCER CABLE TOCLAMP THE TRANSDUCER CABLE TO
TRANSOM NEAR THE TRANSDUCER. THISTRANSOM NEAR THE TRANSDUCER. THIS
TRANSOM NEAR THE TRANSDUCER. THIS
TRANSOM NEAR THE TRANSDUCER. THISTRANSOM NEAR THE TRANSDUCER. THIS
WILL HELP PREVENT THE TRANSDUCERWILL HELP PREVENT THE TRANSDUCER
WILL HELP PREVENT THE TRANSDUCER
WILL HELP PREVENT THE TRANSDUCERWILL HELP PREVENT THE TRANSDUCER
FROM ENTERING THE BOAT IF IT ISFROM ENTERING THE BOAT IF IT IS
FROM ENTERING THE BOAT IF IT IS
FROM ENTERING THE BOAT IF IT ISFROM ENTERING THE BOAT IF IT IS
KNOCKED OFF AT HIGH SPEED.KNOCKED OFF AT HIGH SPEED.
KNOCKED OFF AT HIGH SPEED.
KNOCKED OFF AT HIGH SPEED.KNOCKED OFF AT HIGH SPEED.
POOR ANGLEPOOR ANGLE
POOR ANGLE
POOR ANGLEPOOR ANGLE
CAUTION!CAUTION!
POOR LOCATIONPOOR LOCATION
POOR LOCATION
POOR LOCATIONPOOR LOCATION
GOOD LOCATIONGOOD LOCATION
GOOD LOCATION
GOOD LOCATIONGOOD LOCATION
GOOD LOCATIONGOOD LOCATION
GOOD LOCATION
GOOD LOCATIONGOOD LOCATION
4. Hold the transducer and bracket assembly against the transom. The
transducer should be roughly parallel to the ground. The bottom of the
transducer brack et should be in line with the bottom of the hull.
let the bracket extend below the hull!
Mark the center of the slots for
Don't
the mounting holes. Drill two 5/32" holes in the marked locations for
the #10 screws supplied with the transducer.
TRANSOM
SIDE VIEW
5. Remove the transducer from the bracket and re-assemble it with the
cable passing through the bracket over the bolt as shown above. Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the transducer up or down
until it’ s aligned properly on the transom as shown abov e. Tighten the
brack et’s mounting scre ws. Adjust the transducer so that it’ s parallel to
the ground and tighten the lock nut until it touches the flat w asher, then
add 1/4 turn.
won’t “kick-up” if it strikes an object in the w ater.
6. Route the transducer cable to the sonar unit. Make certain to leave
some slack inthe cable at the tr ansducer as shown abo ve . If possib le ,
route the transducer cable a way from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from the engine’s wiring, bilge pumps, VHF radio wires and
cables, and aerators can be pic ked up by the sonar . Use caution when
routing the transducer cable around these wires.
Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the transducer. This
can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at
high speed.
7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at high
speed, or if noise appears on the display, tr y sliding the transducer
bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water, hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the transducer brack et to go below the bottom of the hull!
The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area
that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass
layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials
(such as plywood, balsa wood, or foam) between layers of fiberglass if
the material is removed from the chosen area. For example, some
manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass, then a core of balsa wood,
finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass. Removing the inner layer of
fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes the outer layer of fiberglass.
The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures, the hull is watertight and structurally sound.
Remember, the sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. Any air
bubbles in the fiberglass or the epoxy will reduce or eliminate the sonar
signals.
To choose the proper location for thru-hull mounting, anchor the boat in
60 feet of water. Add a little water to the sump of the boat. Plug the
FILL WITH EPOXY
INNER HULL
EPOXY TO HULL FIRST
OUTER HULL
transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on, then hold the transducer over
the side of the boat. Adjust the sensitivity and range controls until a
second bottom echo is seen on the display. (you will need to turn both
automatic and ASP off.) Don’t touch the controls once they’ve been set.
Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in the
sump of the boat. Observe the sonar signal to see if there is a noticeable decrease in sensitivity. The second bottom signal may disappear
and the bottom signal may decrease in intensity. Move the transducer
around to find the best location. If the sensitivity control has to be
increased greatly to compensate, then the transducer should be
mounted on the outside of the hull. If not, then mark the location that
shot through the hull the best and follow the instructions on the next
pages for a shoot-thru-hull mounting.
TRANSDUCER LOCATION
(HIGH SPEED)
TRANSDUCER LOCATION
(TROLLING SPEED)
Shoot-thru-hull Installation
(20° Transducer Only)
1. Make certain the area is clean, dry, and free of oil or grease, then
sand both the inside surface of the hull and the face of the transducer
with 100 grit sandpaper. The surface of the hull must be flat so the entire
transducer face is in contact with the hull prior to bonding.
SPREAD EPOXY HERE
SAND THIS SURFACE
2. Follow the instructions on the epoxy package and mix it thoroughly.
Do not mix it too fast, as it will cause bubbles to form in the epoxy.
Apply a small amount on the face of the transducer as shown above,
then spread a small amount onto the sanded area on the hull. Place the
transducer into the epoxy, twisting and turning it to force any air bubbles
out from under the transducer face. The face of the transducer should be
parallel with the hull, with a minimum amount of epoxy between the hull
and transducer. After the epoxy dries, route the cable to the sonar unit.
TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION - 8° Transducer Only
The 8° transducer is designed for transom mount only. It can be installed
on any outboard or stern-drive powered boat. Do not use this transducers on an inboard powered boat.
Please read these instructions carefully before installing your transducer. The transducer mounting location is the most critical part of a
sonar installation. If it isn’t done properly, the sonar can’t perform to its
potential.
ASSEMBLY
1. Locate the four ratchets in the transducer's hardware package. Note
there are letters engraved into one side of each ratchet. These are for
the coarse angle adjustment. A standard transom angle is 14 degrees. By aligning a letter on the ratchet to the alignment mark on the
the transducer bracket, the correct transducer angle can be attained.
Once you've determined the correct angle, press one ratchet on each
side of the transducer and one ratchet on each transducer bracket as
shown below.
RATCHET
F
E
A
B
C
D
ALIGNMENT
LETTERS
ALIGNMENT
MARKS
F
A
E
D
B
C
TRANSDUCER
TRANSDUCER
BRACKET
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