KTM 950 Service Manual

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REPAIR MANUAL

REPARATURANLEITUNG

MANUALE DI RIPARAZIONE

MANUEL DE RÉPARATION

MANUAL DE REPARACIÓN

ART.NR.: 3.206.009-E

KTM Group Partner

950ADVENTURE2003

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950ADVENTURE

REPAIR

MANUAL

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1 SERVICE-INFORMATIONS

2 GENERAL INFORMATION

3 REMOVING AND REFITTING ENGINE

4 DISASSEMBLING ENGINE

5 SERVICING INDIVIDUAL COMPONENTS

6 ASSEMBLING ENGINE

7 ELECTRICAL

8 FUEL SYSTEM

9 TROUBLE SHOOTING

10 CHASSIS

11 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

12 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

13 WIRING DIAGRAMS

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IMPORTANT

INFORMATION

KTM REPAIR MANUAL IN LOOSE-LEAF FORM

STORING THE REPAIR MANUAL IN THE BINDER

– Put the index into the binder. – Put the front page of the repair manual (210x297 mm) into the transparent pocket provided for

this purpose on the outside of the binder.

– Put the spine label (170x45 mm) into the transparent pocket provided for this purpose on the

spine of the binder.

– Put the summary list of contents (150x297 mm) into the transparent pocket provided for this

purpose on the inside of the binder or insert this page on the beginning of the manual.

– Then insert the individual chapters of the manual between the sheets of the index according to

the page number printed in the right bottom corner of each page. Example: page no. 3-5 3 = chapter 3 5 = page 5 All pages with a page number that begins with the digit 3, for example, must be put under the index heading „Chapter 3“.

– Index sheets that have not been marked with a certain chapter are for your personal convenience.

he respective headings can be entered in the list of contents.

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INTRODUCTION

This repair manual offers extensiv repair-instructions and is an up-to-date version that describes the latest models of the series. However, the right to modifications in the interest of technical improvement is reserved without updating the current issue of this manual.

A description of general working modes common in work shops has not been included. Safety rules common in the work shop have also not been listed. We take it for granted that the repairs are made by qualified profesionally trained mechanics.

Read through the repair manual before beginning with the repair work.



WARNING



STRICT COMPLIANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS IS ESSENTIAL TO AVOID DANGER TO LIFE AND LIMB.

CAUTION

NON-COMPLIANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN LEAD TO DAMAGE OF MOTORCYCLE COMPONENTS OR RENDER MOTORCYCLES UNFIT FOR TRAFFIC !

„NOTE” POINTS OUT USEFUL TIPS.

Use only ORIGINAL KTM SPARE PARTS when replacing parts. The KTM high performance engine is only able to meet user expectations if the maintenance work is

performed regularly and professionally.

KTM Austria’s certificate of achievement for its quality system ISO 9001 is the beginning of an ongoing total reengineered quality plan for a brighter tomorrow.

KTM Sportmotorcycle AG

5230 Mattighofen, Austria

All design and assembly modification rights reserved.

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REPLY FAX FOR REPAIR MANUALS

We have made every effort to make our repair manuals as accurate as possible but it is always possible for a mistake or two to creep in.

To keep improving the quality of our repair manuals, we request mechanics and shop foremen to assist us as follows:

If you find any errors or inaccuracies in one of our repair manual – whether these are technical errors, incorrect or unclear repair procedures, tool problems, missing technical data or torques, inaccurate or incorrect translations or wording, etc. – please enter the error(s) in the table below and fax the completed form to us at 0043/7742/6000/5349.

NOTE to table:

– Enter the complete item no. for the repair manual in column 1 (e.g.: 3.206.009-E).

You will find the number on the cover page or in the left margin on each right page of the manual.

– Enter the corresponding page number in the repair manual (e.g.: 5-7c) in column 2. – Enter the current text (inaccurate or incomplete) in column 3 by quoting or describing the respective

passage of the text. If your text deviates from the text contained in the repair manual, please write your text in German or English if possible.

–

Enter the correct text in column 4.

Your corrections will be reviewed and incorporated in the next issue of our repair manual.

Item no. of repair manual Page Current text Correct text

Additional suggestions, requests or comments on our Repair Manuals (in German or English):

Name mechanic/shop foreman Company/work shop

Page 12

Page 13

GENERAL INFORMATION

Repair manual KTM LC8

Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

OIL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-2

AIR INTAKE SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-3

SLS-SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-4

COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-5

SPECIALTOOLS – CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-6

SPECIALTOOLS – ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-7

BLEEDING THE CLUTCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-9

INDEX

2-1

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2-2

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Oil system

Pressure pump 1 draws engine oil from oil tank

2 through oil filter 3 and the oil return valve 4

and pumps it past the pressure relief valve 5 through the oil filter 6 into the annular groove

The main bearing

8, the conrod bearings 9 and

the spraying nozzle

bk (front timing chain) are

supplied with oil through holes in the crankshaft. An oil duct leads to spraying nozzle

bl (piston

cooling), the timing chain tensioner

bm, the

camshaft

bn and the oil pressure switch bo in the

front cylinder. Another oil duct leads from the annular groove to a distributor groove

bp in the clutch cover.

From there an oil duct leads to the spraying nozzle

bq (piston cooling). Another oil duct

supplies the timing chain tensioner

br, the

spraying nozzle

bs (timing chain) and the

camshaft

bt on the rear cylinder with oil.

Another oil duct leads to the oil line

ck that

lubricates the transmission gears. The suction pump

cl draws the oil from the oil sump cn

through the screen cm into the oil tank 2.

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2-3

Intake system

Fresh air is drawn into the filter box through the intake snorkel 1, past the carburetors 2 and through the air filter 3. The cleaned air is conducted to the combustion chamber through the carburetors and intake ports.

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2-4

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Secondary air system

The secondary air system supplies fresh air to the emissions in the exhaust port, resulting in the afterburning (oxidation) of the emissions. A line leads from the filter box

1 to the control valve 2 which opens as soon as the throttle valves 3 are opened. The

line continues to the reed valves

4 in the cylinder heads which are actuated by the pressure pulsation in the exhaust system. As a

result, cleansed fresh air arrives in the exhaust port. The oxygen content in the air and the high exhaust gas temperature cause the emissions to oxidize. If the throttle valves are closed and the engine goes into an overrun condition, the underpressure in the intake port will rise and the control valve will close. This prevents exhaust backfire (combustion of the unburned fuel/air mixture).

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2-5

Closed thermostat

The thermostat is closed if the temperature of the cooling liquid drops below 75° C. The water pump 1 pumps the cooling liquid through the cylinder and cylinder heads

2 and the thermostat 2.

Open thermostat

The thermostat 3 opens at 75° C. The water pump 1 pumps the cooling liquid through the cylinder and cylinder heads 2, the aluminum cooler

4 and the thermostat. The pressure in the cooling system (max. 1.4 bar) is regulated by a valve in the radiator

cap

5. The cooling liquid level in the compensating tank 6 must be between the MIN and MAX marks when the engine is cold.

The fan

7 switches on at 102° C.

Cooling system

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2-6

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

SPECIALTOOLS

– CHASSIS

FIG PART NO DESCRIPTION

1 151.12.017.000 Gear puller 2 584.29.086.000 Pressing tool for swing arm bearing 3 584.29.089.000 Chassis tool holder 4 584.29.091.000 Press-in tool for

bearing seat / rear wheel bearing

5 584.29.092.000

Knock-out tool for bearing seat 6 600.03.022.000 Center stand 7 600.10.013.000 Sleeve for pressing tool for swim arm bearing 8 600.29.018.000 Internal gear puller 28 mm 9 600.29.020.000 Chain rivet tool

10 600.29.055.000 Center stand lock 11 600.29.055.100 Floor jack attachment 12 600.29.056.000 Anvil dolly (for 584.29.086.000) 13 600.29.057.000 Pliers for Öttiker clamps 14 600.29.057.100 Pliers for spring-loaded band-type clamp

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2-7

648

LOCTITE

243

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2-8

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

SPECIAL TOOLS

– ENGINE

FIG PART NO DESCRIPTION

1 309098 Seal Three-Bond 2 0113 080802 Crankshaft locking bolt 3 151.12.017.000 Gear puller 4 503.29.050.000 Bleeding syringe for hydraulic clutch 5 560.12.001.000 Universal-engine work stand 6 584.29.059.000 Loctite 648 green 20 ml 7 585.29.005.000 Protection sleeve for shaft seal ring of water pump 8 590.29.019.000 Valve spring mounter 9 590.29.026.006 Limit plug gauge 6,05 mm

10 590.29.041.000 Feeler gauge for valve clearance 11 6 899 785 Loctite 243 blu 6 cm3 12 600.29.002.000 Engine holder for engine work stand 13 600.29.003.000 Clutch holder 14 600.29.005.000 Protection sleeve for shaft seal ring of output shaft 15 600.29.009.000 Magneto extractor 16 600.29.009.010 Protection bolt for magneto extractor 17 600.29.010.000 Degree wheel 18 600.29.011.000 Carburator synchronisation tool 19 600.29.012.000 Plastigauge-measuring strips 20 600.29.015.000 Piston ring mounting tool 21 600.29.016.000 Setting gauge for float level 22 600.29.018.000 Internal gear puller 28 mm 23 600.29.031.000 Protection sleeve for crankshaft (for pulling of the primary gear) 24 600.29.033.000 Puller for primary gear 25 600.29.041.000 Valve spring mounter insert 26 600.29.043.010 Pressing tool for seal of clutch release shaft 27 600.29.043.020 Pressing tool for seal of output shaft 28 600.29.043.030 Pressing tool for seal and bearing of shifting shaft 29 600.29.043.040 Pressing tool for seal of water pump 30 600.29.043.050 Pressing tool for seal of balancer shaft 31 600.29.044.050 Pressing tool for main bearings (In/out) 32 600.29.046.028 Pressing tool for supporting bearing (In) 33 600.29.073.000 Spark plug wrench 16 mm 34 600.29.075.000 Special nut for conrod 35 600.29.081.000 Special tool for cylinder head nuts 36 600.29.082.000 Holder for water pump wheel 37 600.29.083.000 Special nut for cylinder head nuts

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2-9

Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch

To check the oil level in the master cylinder of the clutch remove the cover. For this purpose, remove bolts and cover together with the rubber boot

1. The oil level in the horizontal-standing master cylinder should

be 4 mm below the upper edge. If necessary add SAE 10 biodegradable hydraulic oil (e.g. Motorex Kupplungs-Fluid 75).

CAUTION

NLY USE SAE 10 BIODEGRADABLE HYDRAULIC OIL TO REFILL THE MASTER

CYLINDER

NEVER USE BRAKE FLUID NOR MIX BIODEGRADABLE HYDRAULIC OILS WITH

MINERAL OILS

Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch

For bleeding, the cover of the master cylinder of the clutch needs to be removed. For this purpose, remove bolts and take off cover together with rubber bellows

1. At the slave cylinder of the clutch, remove the

bleeder nipple. At its place, mount the bleeder syringe

2 which is filled

with biodegradable hydraulic oil (e.g. Motorex Kupplungs-Fluid 75).

Refill oil, until oil is discharged from the bore

A of the master cylinder in

a bubble-free state. Make sure that the oil does not overflow.

CAUTION

HAVING COMPLETED THE BLEEDING PROCEDURE, YOU HAVE TO VERIFY THAT THE OIL

LEVEL IN THE MASTER CYLINDER IS CORRECT

. FOR FILLING OF THE MASTER CYLINDER,

USE

SAE 10 BIODEGRADABLE HYDRAULIC OIL ONLY

(

EX. MOTOREX KUPPLUNGS-

LUID 75); NEVER USE BRAKE FLUID NOR MIX BIODEGRADABLE HYDRAULIC OILS WITH

MINERAL OILS

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REMOVING AND REFITTING ENGINE

Repair manual KTM LC8

Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

REMOVING THE ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-2

REFITTING THE ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-7

INDEX

3-1

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3-2

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Removing the engine

– Screw the center stand 600.03.022.000 onto the frame 1 and jack

up the motorcycle on a firm, even surface.

– Remove the left bump rubber and lock the center stand with the lock

600.29.055.000

NOTE: if available, use the center stand already on the bike. – Unlock the seat lock with the ignition key and remove.

– Remove the bolts

3 on the left and right of the front side covers,

disconnect the front turn signal, pull the tank vent hoses off of the fuel tank and remove the side covers.

– Open the tank cover, unscrew the fixing bolts

4 and remove the

upper tank compartment.

– Remove the bolts

5 on the lower tank compartment and the fuse

box, take the cover off the fuse box and dismount the lower tank compartment.

– Close the fuel cocks, disconnect the gasoline hoses, unscrew the

upper

6 and lower 7 fixing bolts on both fuel tanks and remove the

tanks together with the lower vent hoses.

NOTE: it is easier to disconnect the gasoline hoses if you remove the front bolts on the underride protection and fold the engine guard down.

– Drain the engine oil from the oil tank and the engine: see page 12-4.

– Remove the 4 bolts

8 on the underride protection and take off the

underride protection.

– Remove both bolts

9 on the front cover and take off the cover.

– Open the lid on the battery compartment and disconnect the battery

terminals

bk (starting with the negative pole).

– Take out the battery and remove the upper battery cover.

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3-3

– Unscrew the bolts 1 and remove the intake snorkel 2 together with

the frame from the air filter box.

– Disconnect the vent hose and the EPC hose and remove the upper

half of the air filter box.

– Turn the intake trumpet

3 in a clockwise direction and remove.

Remove air filter.

– Unbolt both side covers on the lower air filter box and remove the

clamps on the carburetor connection boot.

– Detach the EPC hoses

4 from both carburetors and pull the hoses

out of the lower air filter box. – Remove both vent hoses from the carburetors. – Lift both carburetors, carefully draw the cable for the idle speed

adjustment and the gasoline hose through the openings in the lower

air filter box. – Detach the fuel hoses from the carburetors. – Pull the carburetor connection boots off of the intake manifolds.

– Detach the SLS valve

5 from the lower air filter box, pulling the thin

hose from the intake manifold and the thick hose from the valve.

Remove the valve. – Remove the EPC valve

6 from the lower air filter box and

disconnect. –Tilt up the carburetors and fasten to the handlebar with a wire or

rubber band. They do not need to be completely dismounted. – Take the lower air filter box out of the frame.

NOTE: cover the intake ports with a cloth to prevent any parts from falling inside.

– Unscrew both nuts

7 on the front exhaust manifold flange on the

cylinder head, loosen the exhaust clamp

8 on the front exhaust

manifold, pull the front exhaust manifold out of the rear exhaust pipe

and remove. – Unscrew the rear exhaust manifold from the cylinder head.

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3-4

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

– Disconnect the electric connections from the fan motor and the

temperature switch

– Drain the cooling liquid from the radiator and engine: see

page 12-16.

– Detach the water hoses from the radiator (special pliers

600.29.057.100) and unscrew the radiator

2 .

NOTE: fan and radiator shield do not need to be dismounted from the radiator.

– Pull off the oil lines from the oil tank to the valve covers

3 and the

return line

4 (special pliers 600.29.57.100), unscrew the oil lines

from the oil terminal

5 and pull out. Remove the O-rings.

– Loosen the fixing bolts

6 on the oil tank, remove the oil tank and

carefully pull out the oil line.

– Disconnect the side stand switch

7 and take the cable out of the

cable clips.

– Loosen the two bolts and the nut

8 and remove the side stand.

– Unscrew the clutch slave cylinder

9 and the chainguard bk and pull

the locking pin out of the pushrod.

– Dismount the chain roller and chain securing guide.

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3-5

– Unscrew the nut on the wheel spindle, pull out the rear wheel

spindle, take the chain off of the rear sprocket and place over the side

of the bracket

1. Remove the chain from the engine sprocket.

– Detach the connector

– Remove the engine vent hose

3, discarding the hose clamp.

– Unscrew the positive starter engine cable and draw out the wiring

harness. – Detach connector

4 on the starter relay.

– Pull out the gasoline pump vent hose

5 towards the bottom.

– Unscrew the ground connection

– Disconnect the fuel hose

– Loosen the bolts on the side support

8 and the nut on the bolt 9,

pull out the bolt and remove support together with the battery case.

– Unscrew the front oil line

bk.

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3-6

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

– Use the trolley jack to position the attachment 600.29.055.100 on

the engine, insert the bolt

1 through the front of the engine bracket

and fasten with the nut. Screw one of the bolts

2 on the rear of the

side stand fixture and slightly lift the engine.

– Remove the bolt 3 and tilt the foot brake pedal to the side.

– Unscrew the ground wire connection

– Detach the connector from the pulse generator

– Detach the connector from the oil pressure switch

6, the

temperature sensor

7 and from the front 8 and rear ignition coil.

Remove any cable clips necessary.

– Pull the bolt

9 out of the lower support (if necessary, raise or lower

the engine slightly).

– Loosen the nut on the swing arm pivot

bk and knock out the swing

arm pivot with a suitable pipe.

– Pull the engine towards the front with the trolley jack, lower and pull

away towards the side.

– Disconnect all hoses and lines from the engine.

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3-7

Refitting the engine

– Before mounting the engine, attach the water, SLS and vacuum hoses

(Öttiger clamps - special pliers 600.29.057.000 or spring-loaded

band-type clamps - special pliers 600.29.057.100) – Position the swing arm and fix with the swing arm pivot on the right

and a suitable pipe on the left.

– Lift the engine into the frame with the trolley jack, insert the sealing

washer in the rear exhaust flange and secure with copper paste if

necessary. – Guide the chain along the side of the pinion and insert the swing arm

pivot

1, screw on the nut but do not tighten yet.

– Insert the bolt

2 in the lower support (raise or lower the engine

slightly if necessary). – Remove the trolley jack attachment 600.29.055.100 from the engine.

– Plug the connector on the oil pressure switch

3, the temperature

sensor

4 and the front and rear ignition coil 5. Use cable clips to

fasten the wiring harnesses.

– Screw on the ground wire connection

– Attach the pulse generator connector

– Position the foot brake pedal, apply Loctite 243 to the bolt

8 and

tighten to 25 Nm.

Page 31

3-8

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

– Mount the front oil line 1 inserting new O-rings. Tighten the bolts.

– Align the side supports and battery case against the engine, insert the

bolt

2 and mount the nut.

– Mount the bolts

3 ( M10x23), lifting the engine slightly if necessary.

Tighten the nut and bolts to 40 Nm. – Tighten the nut on the swing arm pivot to 130 Nm. – Connect the fuel hose

4 and fasten with a cable clip.

– Run the positive starter cable to the starter and screw on the starter

engine. Run the starter ground to the battery case. – Attach both starter relay connectors

– Run the gasoline pump vent hose

6 upwards along the wiring

harness to the engine bracket and back down, forming an arch.

CAUTION

F YOU RUN THE HOSE STRAIGHT UP WITHOUT AN ARCH, WATER WILL BE ABLE TO

PENETRATE

, CAUSING THE GASOLINE PUMP TO BE SOILED AND DAMAGED.

– Screw on the ground wire

7 from the regulator.

– Attach the connector

– Slip on the hose from the engine ventilation

9 and mount the new

Öttiker clamp with the special pliers 600.29.057.000.

Page 32

3-9

– Place the chain over the pinion and rear sprocket, lift the rear wheel

and slide the wheel spindle through.

– Press the rear wheel towards the front to apply the chain tensioner

and tighten the nut on the wheel spindle to 110 Nm.

– Actuate the foot brake pedal to apply the brake shoes against the

brake disk.

– Check the chain tension, see owners manual, page 25.

– Mount the chain securing guide and the chain roller. – Insert the locking pin in the pushrod and mount the clutch slave

cylinder

2. Screw on the chainguard 3.

– Position the side stand and tighten the two bolts and the nut

to 45 Nm.

– Mount the side stand switch

5 and fasten the cable with the cable

clips.

– Carefully install the oil line, mount the oil tank and tighten the fixing

bolts

– Connect the return line

7 to the oil tank and mount the spring-

loaded band-type clamp with the special pliers 600.29.057.100.

– Attach the oil lines from the oil tank to the valve covers

8 (special

pliers 600.29.057.100).

– Mount both oil lines on the oil terminal

9 with new O-rings, insert

the bolts (M6x20) in the retaining brackets bk and tighten to 10 Nm.

Page 33

3-10

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

– Screw on the radiator together with the fan and the radiator shield

1, tighten the bolts to 10 Nm.

– Connect the water hoses on the radiator (special pliers

600.29.057.100)

– Attach the electric connections for the fan motor and the temperature

switch

– Screw the rear exhaust manifold on to the cylinder head. – Insert the front exhaust manifold in the rear exhaust pipe, mount to

the front cylinder head together with the sealing washer and tighten

the exhaust nuts

NOTE: the exhaust nuts should be tightened evenly without bending the metal sheet.

– Tighten the exhaust clamp

4 on the front manifold.

– Mount the lower air filter box on the intake ports, connect the drain

hose and push the fuel hose and the cable for the idle speed

adjustment down through the opening in the lower air filter box.

CAUTION

–

MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO KINKS IN THE CARBURETOR VENT HOSES AND RUN

THEM DOWN BEHIND THE STARTER ENGINE WITHOUT FORMING AN UPWARD

ARCH

–

REMOVE THE CLOTH USED TO COVER THE INTAKE PORTS.

– Mount the EPC valve

5 on the lower air filter box and connect.

– Mount the secondary air system valve

6 on the lower air filter box,

connecting the thin hose to the intake manifold and the thick hose

directly to the valve. – Attach the carburetor connection boots to the intake manifold. NOTE: the clamps on the carburetor connection boots must be aligned

so that they can be tightened through the openings in the side covers. – Connect the fuel hoses to the carburetors. NOTE: to make it easier to connect the fuel hoses, disconnect the fuel

hose from the connecting piece (on the side of the engine brace) and pull the fuel hose up. Reconnect after mounting the carburetor.

–Insert the carburetor in the carburetor connection boots, tighten the

clamps on the carburetor connection boots and screw both side

covers on the lower air filter box. – Connect both vent hoses to the carburetors and fasten the choke

cable

7 with a cable clip (see photo).

– Insert the EPC hoses

8 in the corresponding openings in the lower air

filter box and connect to the carburetors. – Mount the air filter, position the intake trumpet

9 and turn in a

counter-clockwise direction. – Mount the intake snorkel

bk with the frame to the filter housing.

– Screw on the upper air filter box half. Connect the vent hose and the

EPC hose.

Page 34

3-11

– Fit the upper battery cover and place a battery with battery cover into

the battery compartment.

– Fit the front battery compartment lid and connect both battery cables

1 together to the connections on the front lid (start with the positive

cable).

– Close the front battery compartment lid.

– Mount the underride protection, apply Loctite 243 to the 4 bolts 2

(M8x14 collar bolts) and tighten to 25 Nm.

– Mount the front cover, apply Loctite 243 to both bolts

3 (M8x16)

and tighten to 25 Nm.

– Mount the lower tank compartment and screw on the fuse box

Mount the fuse box cover.

– Fill cooling liquid into the radiator, compensating tank and engine:

see page 12-16. – Add engine oil: see page 12-5. – Connect the fuel sender to the right tank. Connect the gasoline and

vent hoses and mount the tanks. – Screw in the upper

5 (M8x40) and lower 6 (M8x55) or 7 (M8x50)

fixing bolts and open the fuel cocks.

– Connect the front turn signal and attach the vent hoses to the tanks.

Fasten both side covers with the bolts

8 and tighten.

– Mount the upper tank compartment and fasten with the bolts

– Close the tank compartment lid and mount the seat.

– Remove the center stand lock

bk 600.29.055.000, remount the left

bump rubber and remove the center stand

bl.

– Check all hose connections for leakage before you take a trial run. – Check all hoses, lines and cables for a proper fit.

Page 35

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

Repair manual KTM LC8

Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

VALVE COVERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-2

SPARK PLUG SHAFT INSERTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-2

STARTER MOTOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-2

SETTING CYLINDER REAR TO TDC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-3

CAMSHAFTS CYLINDER REAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-3

CHAIN TENSIONER CYLINDER REAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-4

TIMING CHAIN CYLINDER REAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-4

DOUBLE TIMING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-5

CYLINDER HEAD REAR WITH CYLINDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-5

SETTING CYLINDER FRONT TO TDC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-5

CAMSHAFTS CYLINDER FRONT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-6

OIL PRESSURE SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-6

CHAIN TENSIONER CYLINDER FRONT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-6

TIMING CHAIN CYLINDER FRONT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-7

CYLINDER HEAD FRONT WITH CYLINDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-7

WATER PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-8

OIL SCREEN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-8

CLUTCH COVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-8

CLUTCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-9

PRIMARY PINION AND CLUTCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-10

GENERATOR COVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-11

ROTOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-11

FREEWHEEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-11

BALANCER SHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-11

SHIFT MECHANISM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-12

ENGINE CASE HALF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-12

TRANSMISSION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-13

OIL PUMPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-14

INDEX

4-1

Page 36

Page 37

Clean the engine thoroughly on the outside prior to disassembling. – Clamp the engine in the work stand using the special tool

600.29.002.000.

Valve covers

– Pull out the spark plug connectors. – Unscrew the spark plugs using the special tool 600.29.073.000. – Remove the bolts

1 on the valve covers, remove both valve covers.

– Dismount the gaskets of the bolts, the valve covers and the spark

plug shafts

Spark plug shaft inserts

– Pull the spark plug shaft inserts out of the spark plug shafts (pry out

carefully with 2 screwdrivers if necessary), remove the O-rings

3 (2

pieces for each spark plug shaft) and discard.

Starter motor

– Remove both bolts 4 and pull the starter motor out of the case. The

starter motor is sealed off with an O-ring on the case side.

4-2

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Page 38

Setting cylinder rear to TDC

– Unscrew the plug 1 from the generator cover to be able to turn the

crankshaft.

–Turn the crankshaft in a counterclockwise direction until the rear

cylinder is in the TDC position. The marks

2 (crosses) must coincide

with the flat outer surface of the cylinder head at the camshaft gears. NOTE: the camshaft gears are identical for both cylinders but have

marks for cylinders rear and front. Match the respective mark to the respective cylinder, i.e. the crosses for cylinder rear and the circles for cylinder front.

– Remove the case bolt and screw in the special tool 0113 080802

to block the crankshaft.

Camshafts cylinder rear

– Check and note down the valve clearance before you dismount the

camshafts.

Valve clearance: intake 0.125 - 0.175 mm

exhaust 0.225 - 0.275 mm

– Loosen the bolts on the camshaft bearing bridge from the rear

cylinder and carefully remove the camshaft bearing bridge.

CAUTION

HEN TIGHTENING THE BOLTS OF THE CAMSHAFT BEARING BRIDGE, MAKE SURE THAT

THE VALVES ARE NOT ACTUATED BY THE CAMSHAFT

(SEE ILLUSTRATION), OTHERWISE

THE BEARING BRIDGE WILL BREAK

– Remove the camshafts from the cylinder head without tilting.

4-3

Page 39

4-4

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Chain tensioner cylinder rear

– Remove the bolt from the chain tensioner 1.

NOTE: measure the preload on the chain tensioner element before dismounting:

– Apply the chain tensioner bolt to the chain tensioner element without

compressing the spring.

–Measure the distance between the sealing washer and the cylinder

head.

The measured value should be between 6 mm and 11 mm. If the value is lower, the tensioning rail could be worn or the timing chain excessively elongated. If it is higher, the engine was turned to TDC against the running direction.

– Remove the sealing washer.

– Pull out the chain tensioner element

NOTE: the housing and the tensioning piston on the chain tensioner element are compression molded. If they fall apart during disassembly, the chain tensioner element must be replaced.

Timing chain cylinder rear

– Loosen the bearing bolt 3 on the double timing gear and pull out of

the cylinder head together with the needle bearing. The double timing gear will slide down slightly, relieving the timing chain.

– Remove the O-ring on the bearing bolt.

– Use a wire hook

A which you can bend from a piece of welding wire

to lift the side of the chain

4 towards the inside from the chain teeth

5 over the gear teeth 6 of the double timing gear. Hold the double

timing gear towards the outside by inserting your finger through the hole in the bearing bolt.

Page 40

4-5

Double timing gear

– Lift the double timing gear out of the cylinder head, letting the chain

fall into the slot.

Cylinder head rear with cylinder

– Remove the outer nut 1. – Loosen the cylinder-head nuts crosswise. Special nut 600.29.083.000

is required for the inside nuts

– Pull the cylinder head and cylinder up until the piston-pin retainer can

be lifted out of the groove on the generator side with a suitable

screwdriver. NOTE: the piston-pin retainer can easily be removed if the piston is held

in place by the cylinder. –Press the piston pins out of the piston by hand and remove the

cylinder together with the piston. – Discard the cylinder-base gasket.

Setting cylinder front to TDC

Loosen the crankshaft locking bolt and continue to turn the engine towards the front cylinder's TDC position, keeping the timing chain on the rear cylinder slightly tensioned and holding the conrod in the center of the opening in the case.

CAUTION

–IF YOU DO NOT HOLD THE CHAIN, IT MAY GET JAMMED BETWEEN THE TIMING

GEAR OF THE BALANCER SHAFT AND THE TENSIONING RAIL

–IF THE CONROD IS NOT POSITIONED IN THE CENTER OF THE OPENING IN THE

CASE

, THE CONROD BOTTOM WILL BLOCK ON THE BALANCER SHAFT AND

PREVENT THE CRANKSHAFT FROM TURNING

–Turn the crankshaft until the front cylinder is in the TDC position. The

marks

3 (circles) must coincide with the flat outer surface of the

cylinder head at the camshaft gears. – The same camshaft gears are used in both cylinders but they have

marks for cylinder rear and front. Use the camshaft gear marked with

a cross for cylinder rear and the camshaft gear marked with a circle

for cylinder front cylinder. – Block the crankshaft again.

Page 41

4-6

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Camshafts cylinder front

– Check and note down the valve clearance before you dismount the

camshafts.

Valve clearance: intake 0.125 - 0.175 mm

exhaust 0.225 - 0.275 mm

– Loosen the bolts on the camshaft bearing bridge from the front

cylinder and carefully remove the camshaft bearing bridge.

CAUTION

WHEN TIGHTENING THE BOLTS OF THE CAMSHAFT BEARING BRIDGE

, MAKE SURE THAT

THE VALVES ARE NOT ACTUATED BY THE CAMSHAFT

(SEE ILLUSTRATION), OTHERWISE

THE BEARING BRIDGE WILL BREAK

– Remove the camshafts from the cylinder head without tilting.

Oil pressure switch

– Loosen the oil pressure switch 1 and unscrew. Discard sealing

washer.

Chain tensioner cylinder front

– Remove the bolt on the chain tensioner 2. NOTE: measure the preload on the chain tensioner element before

dismounting: – Apply the chain tensioner bolt to the chain tensioner element without

compressing the spring.

–Measure the distance between the sealing washer and the cylinder

head.

– Remove the sealing washer.

– Pull out the chain tensioner element

NOTE: the housing and the tensioning piston on the chain tensioner element are compression molded. If they fall apart during disassembly, the chain tensionerelement must be replaced.

Page 42

4-7

Timing chain cylinder front

– Loosen the bearing bolt 1 on the double timing gear and pull out of

the cylinder head together with the needle bearing. The double

timing gear will slide down slightly, relieving the timing chain. – Remove the O-ring on the bearing bolt.

– Use a wire hook

A which you can bend from a piece of welding wire

to lift the side of the chain

2 towards the inside from the chain teeth

3 over the gear teeth 4 of the double timing gear. Hold the double

timing gear towards the outside by inserting your finger through the

hole in the bearing bolt. – Lift the double timing gear out of the cylinder head, letting the chain

fall into the slot.

Cylinder head front with cylinder

– Remove the outer nut 5. – Loosen the cylinder-head nuts crosswise. Special nut 600.29.083.000

is required for the inside nuts

– Pull the cylinder head and cylinder up until the piston-pin retainer can

be lifted out of the groove on the clutch side with a suitable

screwdriver. NOTE: the piston-pin retainer can easily be removed if the piston is held

in place by the cylinder. –Press the piston pins out of the piston by hand and remove the

cylinder together with the piston. – Discard the cylinder-base gasket.

Page 43

Water pump

– Remove the water pump cover 1, discard the O-ring gasket. NOTE: also remove the 2 dowel pins used to keep the water pump cover

in a central position.

– Hold the water pump wheel with special tool 600.29.082.000,

remove the bolt 2 and pull the water pump wheel 3 off of the shaft.

NOTE: – The bolt and the water pump wheel only need to be removed if the

water pump will be serviced. They do not need to be removed if you are only dismounting the clutch cover.

– If the water pump wheel cannot be removed because it is being held

by residual thread adhesive, the water pump shaft and the water pump wheel can be pressed out from the inside later.

CAUTION

F YOU TRY TO LOOSEN THE BOLT ON THE WATER PUMP WITHOUT USING SPECIAL

TOOL

600.29.082.000, YOU MAY BREAK THE DRIVER ON THE BALANCER SHAFT OR

WATER PUMP SHAFT

Oil screen

– Remove the oil screen cover 4. –Carefully pull the oil screen

5 out of the clutch cover with a pair of

pliers.

Clutch cover

– Remove the bolts and detach the inner clutch cover together with the

outer clutch cover. Be careful not to lose the dowel pins.

NOTE: – The outer clutch over can remain on the inner clutch cover if you also

remove the bolt

6 on the outer clutch cover.

– If the case bolt for the blocking hole is still mounted, it must also be

removed.

4-8

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Page 44

4-9

Clutch

– Remove the bolts on the clutch springs crosswise and lift off the

pressure cap. – Pull out the clutch push rod.

– Insert a wire hook in the recess in the clutch disks and pull all of the

clutch disks out of the clutch hub. NOTE: leave the spring washer and supporting ring in the clutch. They

will be detached together with the inner clutch hub, at which time they can be easily removed.

– Slip on the holder for the inner clutch hub

A 600.29.003.000,

counteract the inner clutch hub and loosen the nut. – Pull off the inner clutch hub together with the clutch pressure booster

and the underlying washer, which usually adheres to the inner clutch

hub.

NOTE: you do not need to dismount the primary pinion if you are only replacing the outer clutch hub:

– Remove the engine locking bolt 0113 080802. – Continue turning the crankshaft until the flat part of the pickup ring

1 coincides with the teeth on the outer clutch hub.

– Pull the needle bearing

2 out of the outer clutch hub with a suitable

screwdriver, carefully pushing the outer clutch hub back and forth. –Press the outer clutch hub away from the primary pinion and remove.

NOTE: the gear for the oil pump drive is located on the back of the outer clutch hub and can easily fall down.

Page 45

4-10

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Primary pinion and clutch

If you are completely dismounting the engine, the primary pinion must be detached before you remove the clutch.

– Mount the special tool 0113 080802 (engine locking bolt) and hold

the crankshaft in the rear or front cylinder's TDC position.

– Unscrew the pickup

– Loosen the nut

2 of the primary pinion (A/F 46 mm, LH thread) and

remove together with the washer.

– Loosen the nut

3 of the balancer shaft (A/F 30 mm) and remove

together with the washer.

– Pull the outer clutch hub away from the case until the pickup ring

can be removed. It is secured by a pin.

– Completely remove the outer clutch hub together with the needle

bearing.

NOTE: – The gear for the oil pump drive is located on the back of the outer

clutch hub and can easily fall down.

– Remove the spacing washer inserted between the gear for the oil

pump drive and the bearing which may adhere to the bearing.

– Pull off the gear on the balancer shaft

– Insert the pressure tool 600.29.031.000

6 in the hole in the

crankshaft and pull off the primary gear

7 from the crankshaft using

the puller 600.29.033.000.

– Remove the balance weight

8 from the balancer shaft; carefully pry

the woodruff key out of the shaft groove with a screwdriver.

– Slip off the timing chain and pull the engine sprocket off of the

balancer shaft.

– Unscrew the chain tensioning rail

NOTE: if you intend to reuse the timing chain, engine sprocket and chain tensioning rail, mark the running direction and the cylinder allocation.

Page 46

4-11

Generator cover

– Loosen all of the bolts on the generator cover except the bolt on the

starter idler shaft

1 and remove the generator cover, being careful

not to lose the dowel pins. Discard the gasket. NOTE: the rotor's magnetic retaining force will prevent the cover from

being removed easily. – Unscrew the nut

2 and remove the engine sprocket together with

the lock washer.

Rotor

– Remove the upper starter idler gear 3. – Remove the rotor bolt

4 and the washer.

– Screw the pressure bolt 600.29.009.010

5 in the crankshaft.

– Pull the rotor off of the crankshaft using the puller 600.29.009.000

6; remove the pressure bolt and the engine locking bolt.

Freewheel

– Remove the freewheel lock 7 and lift the freewheel 8 of the

crankshaft. – Pull the lower starter idler gear

9 from the balancer shaft.

Balancer shaft

– Gently tap the balancer shaft off on the clutch side with a rubber

hammer.

CAUTION

–MAKE SURE THE TIMING CHAIN DOES NOT GET CAUGHT. NOTE: a stop disk is located on the outside of the roller bearing on the

balancer shaft (on the clutch side) which should be removed before the balancer shaft is dismounted.

– Remove the timing chain and unscrew the tensioning rail. NOTE: if you intend to reuse the timing chain and chain tensioning rail,

mark the running direction and the cylinder allocation.

Page 47

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

4-12

Shift mechanism

– Push the shift rail 1 away from the shift locating drum and pull out

the shift shaft

– Remove the bolt

3 from the shift locating drum.

–Press the locking lever

4 down to relieve the shift locating drum 5,

remove the shift locating drum.

– Loosen the bolt and remove the locking lever

4 (not required for

further engine removal).

Engine case half

– Remove the gear shift sensor 6 with the pin and spring. Unscrew the

oil filter cover

7, discarding the gasket on the oil filter cover and the

oil filter.

– Unscrew all HH bolts accessible from the generator side.

–Tilt the case horizontally with the generator side up. – Lift the case half of the generator side while lightly tapping the drive

shaft with a rubber hammer. If necessary, tap the drive shaft downwards.

CAUTION

–DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER OR SIMILAR TOOL TO PRY THE CASE HALVES APART

SINCE THIS MAY DAMAGE THE SEALING AREAS

– Discard the case gasket. – Remove the crankshaft from the case.

Page 48

4-13

Transmission

– Remove the oil rail 1 for the transmission lubrication. It is secured at

the bottom to keep it from twisting. – Pull out the shift rails

2 together with the upper shift rail springs.

–Tilt the shift forks

3 to the side; watch the shift rollers 4 while you

remove the shift drum

– Remove the shift forks and the lower springs of the shift rails.

– Bring the engine into a vertical position (mounting position) and

remove the lock ring

6 and washer from the countershaft.

– Simultaneously pull both transmission shafts out of the bearing seats. NOTE: also remove the spacing washer on the countershaft which often

adheres to the bearing.

Page 49

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

4-14

Oil pumps

– Remove the lock ring 1 from the oil pump shaft; remove the spacing

washer

2 and oil pump gear 3.

– Pull the needle roller

4 out of the pump gear and remove the washer

underneath.

– Loosen the bolts on the outer oil pump

5 (pressure pump) and

remove the oil pump housing.

NOTE: the centering pins are usually retained in the oil pump housing; if they are retained, pull them out with pliers.

– Remove the inner oil pump

6 (suction pump).

– Remove the suction pump's inner and outer rotor (

7 and 8) from

the oil pump shaft.

– Pull the needle roller

9 out of the oil pump shaft.

– Pull the oil pump shaft and the two pressure pump rotors out of the

engine housing.

– Remove both rotors from the oil pump shaft and pull out the needle

roller.

Page 50

Page 51

SERVICING INDIVIDUAL COMPONENTS

Repair manual KTM LC8

Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

ROLLER BEARING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-2

MAIN BEARINGS - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-3

REPLACING BEARING SHELLS, OUTPUT END . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-4

REPLACING BEARING SHELLS, GENERATOR END . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-4

REPLACING THE CONROD BEARINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-5

SELECTING THE BEARING SHELLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-5

REPLACING THE SUPPORTING BEARINGS IN THE CLUTCH COVER . . . . . .5-6

OVERHAULING THE WATER PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-7

CHECKING THE SUCTION PUMP FOR WEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-8

CHECKING THE PRESSURE PUMP FOR WEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-8

BYPASS VALVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-8

DISASSEMBLING THE CYLINDER HEAD AND CHECKING

PARTS FOR WEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-9

CHECKING THE PISTONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-10

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS FOR PISTON RINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-10

CHECKING THE PISTON RING END GAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-10

MEASURING PISTONS + CYLINDERS, ESTABLISHING THE PISTON

MOUNTING CLEARANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-10

PISTON AND CYLINDER IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-11

ASSEMBLING THE CYLINDER HEAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-11

GENERATOR COVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-13

VALVE GEAR – CHECKING PARTS FOR WEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-13

CLUTCH – CHECKING PARTS FOR WEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-14

SHIFT MECHANISM – CHECKING PARTS FOR WEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-15

PREASSEMBLING THE SHIFT SHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-15

GENERAL INFORMATION ON SERVICING THE TRANSMISSION . . . . . . . .5-16

ASSEMBLING THE MAIN SHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-16

ASSEMBLING THE COUNTERSHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-17

CHECKING THE FREEWHEEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-18

REPLACING THE FREEWHEEL HUB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-18

STARTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-18

INDEX

5-1

Page 52

Page 53

5-2

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Replacing the roller bearing

– Remove all bearing locking screws 1 from both case halves.

– Remove all shaft seal rings and the dowel pins from the case halves. Heat both case halves evenly in an oven at 150° C; the roller bearings

will fall out of the case by themselves. If any roller bearings should be left in the case, tap the case lightly on a flat wooden surface.

NOTE: the shift shaft bearing

2 must be pressed out with the pressing

tool 600.29.043.030, although this bearing is usually highly resistant to wear.

– Replace all of the roller bearings. The new roller bearings can be

inserted by hand until flush as soon as the case temperature has reached approx. 150° C. The roller bearings should fit tightly after cooling down. Use a mandrel to carefully press in any bearings that are not flush with the surface.

NOTE: the shift shaft bearing

2 must be pressed in flush with the

pressing tool 600.29.043.030. –Press in the shaft sealing ring

3 for the push rod until flush using the

special tool 600.29.043.010.

–Press in the shaft sealing ring for the countershaft

4 until flush using

the special tool 600.29.043.020.

–Press in the shaft sealing ring for the shift shaft

5 until flush using

the special tool 600.29.043.030.

–

Apply Loctite 243 to all bearing locking screws 1 and tighten to 6 Nm.

Page 54

5-3

Replacing the main bearings-general information

NOTE: – The bearing shells for the friction bearings are pressed in and out in a

cold state. – Mark the position of the bearing end gap

1 on the engine case with

a felt-tip pin to facilitate reassembly. –Press the main bearing shells out of both engine case halves from the

inside to the outside using the press mandrel 600.29.044.050

(smaller diameter).

Before you select the bearing shells you must measure the crankshaft. – Measure the diameter of the two main bearing pins at 3 points that

are 120° apart using a micrometer gauge. This only applies to

crankshafts that you will continue to use. Diameter of main bearing pin: 49.965 mm – 49.975 mm (yellow)

49.976 mm – 49.985 mm (blue)

49.986 mm – 49.995 mm (red) NOTE: – Use the bearing color indicated for the respective measurement. – The crankshaft must be replaced if the measurement falls short of the

minimum diameter or if the crankshaft is worn.

– New crankshafts do not need to be measured. Use new bearings

according to the colored circles

3 marked on the crankshaft web of

the new crankshaft.

NOTE: there are 2 types of bearings for each bearing color – the grooved bearing shell (with the lubricating groove and oil bore) is pressed into the top of the case half of the generator end and the smooth bearing shells (without lubricating groove) are pressed into the bottom of the case half of the generator end and into the case half of the output end

– Measure the bearing bores with a micrometer to ensure that the

bearing shells are seated firmly in the engine case after being pressed in.

Nominal dimension: 54.000 mm – 54.015 mm

NOTE: if the bearing bores are too big, the engine case must be replaced.

Measure the inner diameter of the bearings after they are pressed in to ensure that the bearing clearance is correct.

NOTE: the inner diameter of the bearings must be measured at a 90° angle to the bearing end gap. The diameter of the main bearing pin must be deducted from the inner diameters of the bearings, the difference is the radial clearance of the main bearing.

Setpoint value for the radial clearance of the main bearing:

0.025 mm – 0.055 mm Wear limit: 0.080 mm

Example:Inner bearing diameter measured 50.020 mm

Main bearing pin measured 49.980 mm

50.020 – 49.980 = 0.040 mm radial clearance

Page 55

5-4

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Replacing bearing shells, output end

– Center the new bearing shells (both smooth) with the assembling

sleeve 600.29.044.050

1. The assembling sleeve is beveled on one

side so the bearing shells can be pushed in easily. The bearing shells should protrude 1-2 mm on the other side of the assembling sleeve to make it easier to position them in the engine case.

– Position the bearing shells on the output end of the case such that

the end gap on the bearing shells points to the marks

2 made when

disassembling.

–Press in the bearings from the outside to the inside through the

assembling sleeve up to the stop using the press mandrel

600.29.044.050

CAUTION

– ALWAYS PRESS IN BEARING SHELLS FROM THE OUTSIDE TO THE INSIDE OTHERWISE

THEY WILL NOT BE POSITIONED CORRECTLY AND THE BEARING RADII OF THE CRANKSHAFT WEBS WILL PRESS AGAINST THE BEARING SHELLS

. THIS IS WHY THE

BEARING SHELLS ARE SEATED

2 MM BELOW THE EDGE OF THE BEARING BORE.

– THE ASSEMBLING SLEEVE SERVES AS A STOP

. IT IS NOT REMOVED UNTIL THE

BEARING SHELLS ARE SEATED IN THE CORRECT POSITION

Replacing bearing shells, generator end

– Center the new bearing shells (smooth – on the bottom, grooved –

on the top) with the assembling sleeve 600.29.044.050 – same procedure as for the bearing shells, output end (see above).

– Position the bearing sleeves at the generator end of the case with the

bearing shell end gap pointing to the marks

4 made when

disassembling. Do not cover the oil bore.

–Press the bearings into the engine case half from the outside to the

inside through the assembling sleeve up to the stop using the special tool 600.29.044.050.

CAUTION

– ALWAYS PRESS IN BEARING SHELLS FROM THE OUTSIDE TO THE INSIDE OTHERWISE

THEY WILL NOT BE POSITIONED CORRECTLY AND THE BEARING RADII OF THE CRANKSHAFT WEBS WILL PRESS AGAINST THE BEARING SHELLS

. THIS IS WHY THE

BEARING SHELLS ARE SEATED

2 MM BELOW THE EDGE OF THE BEARING BORE.

– THE ASSEMBLING SLEEVE SERVES AS A STOP. IT IS NOT REMOVED UNTIL THE

BEARING SHELLS ARE SEATED IN THE CORRECT POSITION

–

IF THE BEARING SHELLS ARE INCORRECTLY ALIGNED OR IF SMOOTH BEARING SHELLS ARE PRESSED IN ON TOP

, THE OIL SUPPLY TO THE SPRAYING NOZZLES TO

COOL THE PISTONS AND LUBRICATE THE TIMING CHAIN WILL BE INTERRUPTED

LEADING TO SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE.

NOTE: – After replacing all friction and roller bearings, dismount the spraying

nozzles and oil nozzles and clean the oil ducts with compressed air to make sure they are not clogged.

– Coat the friction bearings with Molycote grease. Apply Loctite 243 to the spraying nozzles and oil nozzles and tighten to 10 Nm.

Page 56

5-5

Replacing the conrod bearings

– Clamp each conrod in a vise using protective jaws. – Loosen the bolts

1 on the conrod bearing covers with the special

wrench socket 600.29.075.000 and remove the bearing covers.

NOTE: mark the conrod caps to ensure that each cap is mounted to the same conrod when it is measured and assembled.

– Remove the conrod caps. – Clean the crankshaft and blow compressed air through the lubrication

bores.

Selecting the bearing shells

Before you select the new bearing shells you must measure the conrod journal.

– Measure the diameter of the conrod journal at 3 points that are 120°

apart using a micrometer gauge.

Diameter of the conrod journal: 41.990 mm – 42.000 mm (blue)

42.001 mm – 42.011 mm (red) NOTE: – Use the bearing color indicated for the respective measurement. – The crankshaft must be replaced if the measurement falls short of the

minimum diameter or if the crankshaft is worn.

– Clamp each conrod in a vise, insert new bearing shells, position the

crankshaft with a plastigauge measuring strip

A (600.29.012.000) on

top and mount the conrod caps with the old bolts, as described below.

CAUTION

–

INSERT THE PLASTIGAUGE MEASURING STRIPS AT A 90° ANGLE TO THE BEARING END GAP

– DO NOT TURN THE CONRODS ON THE CONROD JOURNAL

– Unclamp the conrods and compare the width of the plastigauge

measuring strip with the information on the packing. The width of the plastiguage measuring strip is equivalent to the bearing clearance.

Setpoint value of the conrod bearing clearance:

0.030 mm – 0.060 mm Wear limit: 0.080 mm

– Clamp each conrod in a vise using protective jaws, apply a thin layer

of Molycote grease to the bearing shells, position the crankshaft and mount the conrod caps with new bolts.

CAUTION

THE BEARING SHELLS SHOULD BE MOUNTED IN AN OFFSET POSITION IN THE CONROD

TO ALLOW ROOM FOR THE CRANKSHAFT RADIUS

2. IF THE CONRODS ARE

MOUNTED BACKWARDS

, THE BEARING SHELLS WILL EXERT PRESSURE ON THE RADIUS

AND BLOCK THE CONRODS

–Tighten the conrod bearing bolts with the special wrench socket

600.29.075.000 to 25 Nm (1st stage). The tighten to 30 Nm (2nd stage) and finally by another 60° (3rd stage).

NOTE: use a degree wheel

3 (600.29.010.000) to make sure the

conrod bearing bolts are tightened correctly.

Page 57

5-6

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Replacing the supporting bearings in the clutch cover

– Pull the bearing shells out of the clutch cover using the puller

151.12.017.000 and the internal extractor 600.29.018.000

– Measure the diameter of the bearing pin at 3 points that are 120°

apart using a micrometer gauge.

Diameter of the supporting bearing pin: 27.985 mm – 28.000 mm

NOTE: The crankshaft must be replaced if the measurement falls short of the minimum diameter or if the crankshaft is worn.

– Center the new bearing shells with the assembling sleeve

600.29.046.028

2. The assembling sleeve is beveled on one side so

the bearing shells can be pushed in easily. The bearing shells should protrude 1-2 mm on the other side of the assembling sleeve to make it easier to position them in the clutch cover.

– Place the bearing shells on the clutch cover with the assembling

sleeve and press in the bearing shells to the stop using the press mandrel 600.29.046.028

Page 58

5-7

Overhauling the water pump

– Remove the washer 1 from the water pump shaft and pry the shaft

sealing ring

2 out of the case.

NOTE: if the water pump wheel cannot be removed because it is being held by residual thread adhesive, the water pump shaft and the water pump wheel can be pressed out from the inside after the lock ring

4 is

removed.

– Remove the outer lock ring

3 from the water pump shaft using

suitable pliers.

–Press the water pump shaft out of the bearing from the outside to the

inside. The inner lock ring

4 does not need to be removed.

– Heat the case evenly in an oven at 150° C; the old bearing will fall

out of the bearing seat by itself and the new bearing can easily be pressed into the bearing seat by hand. The bearing should fit flush and tightly after it cools down.

– Insert the water pump shaft in the new bearing from the inside to the

outside.

NOTE: the recess in the water pump shaft should point towards the inside.

–Mount the lock ring

– Place the protective sleeve

5 585.29.005.000 on the pump shaft and

press in a new shaft sealing ring

2 until flush using the pressing tool

600.29.043.040. Mount the washer

Page 59

5-8

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Checking the suction pump for wear

– Insert both suction pump rotors in the housing. –Use a feeler gauge

A to check the clearance between the inner and

outer rotor:

Setpoint value: 0.1 mm

Wear limit: 0.2 mm

– Use a feeler gauge

A to check the clearance between the outer rotor

and the housing:

Setpoint value: 0.2 mm

Wear limit: 0.4 mm

– Use a feeler gauge A and a straight edge B to check the axial

clearance:

Setpoint value: 0.04 mm – 0.09 mm Wear limit: 0.25 mm

Checking the pressure pump for wear

– Insert both pressure pump rotors in the case. –Use a feeler gauge

A to check the clearance between the inner and

outer rotor:

Setpoint value: 0.1 mm

Wear limit: 0.2 mm

– Use a feeler gauge A to check the clearance between the outer rotor

and the case:

Setpoint value: 0.2 mm

Wear limit: 0.4 mm

– Use a feeler gauge and a straight edge to check the axial clearance:

Setpoint value: 0.04 mm – 0.09 mm

Wear limit: 0.25 mm

Bypass valve

– Remove the lock ring 1 on the bypass valve using suitable pliers and

take the individual bypass valve parts out of the housing.

NOTE: the spring is pretensioned.

– Check parts for visible wear and damage. – Measure the length of the pressure spring:

Minimum length of pressure spring: 42.0 mm

– Clean parts, oil the pistons and insert in the bore. Position the spring,

place a washer on the spring and mount the lock ring in the groove using suitable pliers.

Page 60

5-9

Disassembling the cylinder head and checking parts for wear

NOTE: the illustration shows the font cylinder. The procedure for the rear cylinder is identical.

– Pull all of the bucket tappets

1 out of the cylinder head.

NOTE: – Note down the mounting position to ensure that the same bucket

tappet is inserted in the same bore during installation.

– The compensating washers

2 for the valve clearance (shims) usually

adhere to the bottom of the bucket tappets and should be set aside together with the bucket tappets.

– Invert the cylinder and cylinder head and remove the three Allen bolts

3 and nuts.

–Remove the cylinder and pistons from the cylinder head and discard

the cylinder head gasket.

– Unscrew the chain guide.

–Press the valve springs together using the valve assembling tool

(590.29.019.000 with the attachment 600.29.041.000

4) and

remove the valve spring key from the valve shaft. Relieve the springs and remove from the cylinder head.

NOTE: note down the mounting position of the valves to ensure that the valves are mounted in the same position during installation.

– Pull the valve shaft seal off the valve shaft with pliers and remove the

valve spring washer.

NOTE: a washer (14x30x2) is located under the spring retainers for the exhaust valve springs to increase the spring preload.

– Repeat the above procedure for the other valves. – Clean all parts. Sealing area

Check the spark plug thread and valve seats for damage or cracks. Use a straight edge

A and a feeler gauge B to check the sealing area to the

cylinder for distortion. Max. distortion: 0.05 mm. Valve seats

The valve seats may not be impacted. Width of sealing seat: intake max.

1.40 mm; outlet max. 1.40 mm. Reseat the valves if necessary. Valves

Check the valve disk for wear and runout. The valve disk runout should not exceed 0.03 mm. The valve seat may not be impacted. The sealing area should be in the middle of the valve seat. The valve shaft is hardchrome-plated. Wear usually occurs at the valve guide.

Valve guides The valve guides are checked with the limit plug gauge

590.29.026.006 (Ø 6.05 mm). If the limit plug gauge can easily be pushed into the valve guide, the valve guide needs to be replaced at a special workshop.

Valve springs Check the valve springs for fractures or other wear. Measure the spring length with a sliding caliper in an unloaded condition:

Minimum length of inner spring: 38.0 mm

Maximum length of outer spring: 41.3 mm

Page 61

5-10

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Checking the pistons

– Mark the position of the piston arrow in the cylinder to facilitate

reassembly and to ensure that the same piston is mounted in the

same cylinder again. –Press the piston up out of the cylinder. – Replace the piston if oil consumption is high or the piston skirt is

excessively grooved. – If the piston is to be reinstalled:

1. Check the piston bearing surface for damage.

2. Piston ring grooves: the piston rings must move freely in the groove.

Use old piston rings or sandpaper (400 grit) to clean the piston ring

grooves.

3. Check the piston rings for damage and end gap.

4. The piston pins must move freely in the bolt hole when mounted.

Replace piston pins that are badly discolored or have visible running

marks. Place the piston pin in the conrod and check for clearance.

Maximum clearance in the conrod eye: 0.08 mm. NOTE: the piston pin may not have any clearance when mounted and

should be easy to move when applying slight counterpressure.

Checking the piston ring end gap

– Insert the piston ring in the cylinder and align with the piston

(approx. 10 mm under the upper edge of the cylinder). – Measure the end gap with a feeler gauge

Piston ring end gap: max. 0.50 mm

If the end gap is larger than indicated above, check the cylinder for wear. If the cylinder wear is within the tolerance limits, replace the piston ring.

Assembly instructions for piston rings

– Mount the oil scraper ring in the lower piston ring groove with the

mark facing the piston head. –Mount the compression ring in the middle piston ring groove with the

mark facing the piston head. –Mount the compression ring in the upper piston ring groove with the

mark facing the piston head.

Measuring pistons and cylinders, establishing the piston mounting clearance

–To establish cylinder wear, use a micrometer to measure the cylinder

in the middle of the bearing surface. – Measure the X and Y axis of the cylinder diameter to establish any

ovality. NOTE: if the Nicasil coating on the cylinder is worn but not damaged, a

replacement cylinder can be ordered from our KTM dealer/importer (new Nicasil coating, used cylinder).

– Measure the piston at the piston skirt across the piston pin, 9 mm

from the lower edge.

Piston size I: 99.960 mm – 99.972 mm

Piston size II: 99.973 mm – 99.984 mm

Wear limit: 99.930 mm

– The piston mounting clearance is the difference between the smallest

cylinder diameter and the piston diameter.

Piston mounting clearance: 0.04 mm – 0.06 mm

Wear limit: 0.10 mm

Page 62

Piston and cylinder identification

The cylinder size 1 is impressed in the bottom of the cylinder near the chain tunnel; 1 is size I, 2 is size II.

The piston size

2 is impressed in the top of the piston; 1 is size I, 2 is

size II.

Assembling the cylinder head

– Slide the valve spring washers 3 over the valve guides and mount

new valve shaft seals

– Lubricate the valve shafts and insert the valves in their original

position in the valve guides.

NOTE: a washer (14x30x2) is located under the spring retainers for the exhaust valve springs to increase the spring preload.

– Mount the inner and outer valve springs

5 with the spring retainers

6 and compress the springs using the valve assembling tool

(590.29.019.000 with the attachment 600.29.041.000).

–Grease the valve spring keys

7 and position on the valve shafts.

Relieve the valve springs.

–Tap the valve spring retainers to set the keys.

5-11

Page 63

5-12

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

– Place the lubricated piston on the cylinder and clamp the piston rings

together with the piston ring clamping band 600.29.015.000

– Use a plastic hammer to tap lightly on the top of the piston ring

clamping band until it is flush with the cylinder.

– Use the hammer handle to carefully tap the piston into the cylinder,

making sure the piston rings do not get caught.

CAUTION

IFTHE PISTON RINGS ARE PROPERLY CLAMPED BY THE PISTON RING CLAMPING BAND

AND THE CLAMPING BAND IS FLUSH WITH THE CYLINDER

, IT SHOULD BE EASY TO

PUSH THE PISTON INTO THE CYLINDER BY TAPPING LIGHTLY WITH THE HAMMER HANDLE

. APPLYING MORE FORCE WILL ONLY DAMAGE THE PISTON RINGS.

– Invert the cylinder head, mount a new cylinder head gasket and put

the cylinder into position. NOTE: the cylinder and the cylinder head are marked at the exhaust

flange

2. One or two circles are impressed on both parts

–Tighten the three Allen bolts

3 to 18 Nm (1st stage) and 23 Nm (2nd

stage). – Mount the chain guide rail, apply Loctite 243 to the bolt and tighten

(15 Nm). Check the chain rail guide for mobility.

– Mount the bucket tappets

4 and the valve shims 5 in their original

positions in the cylinder head. NOTE: if the valve clearance was incorrect when measured or if the

valves and valve seats were serviced or parts of the valve gear were replaced, the thickness of the valve shims must be corrected.

Page 64

5-13

Generator cover

– Loosen the three bolts 1 on the stator. –Tilt the cable retaining bracket

2 away from the cable with long nose

pliers

A (see small arrow) and pull out of the housing. Take the cable

duct out of the generator cover and remove the stator.

–Pry the shaft sealing ring on the balancer shaft

3 out of the

generator cover and discard.

– Remove the lock ring

4 and pull the idler with the disk and the

bearing from the bearing bolt.

– Heat the housing to 150° C. The bearing

5 will fall out of the

housing by itself.

–Press in a new bearing

5 until flush. Slide the new bearing on the

bearing bolt, slide on the idler and disk and mount the lock ring

– Use the special tool 600.29.043.050 to press in the new shaft sealing

ring on the balancer shaft

3, open side first.

– Position the stator, press the cable duct in the generator cover. – Push the retaining bracket in the recess of the housing and fit into

place. Apply Loctite 243 to the stator bolts and tighten to 10 Nm.

Valve gear – checking parts for wear

Check the teeth of the balancer shaft 6 for wear. Check the rollers and links of the timing chain

7 for wear, damage and

smooth operation. Check the timing chain guides

8 for wear.

Check the timing chain tensioning rails

9 for wear.

Check the teeth on both double timing gears

bk and the camshaft gears

bl for wear.

Check the camshafts and camshaft bearing positions for wear and seizing marks.

Page 65

5-14

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Clutch – checking parts for wear

Check the thrust bearing 1 for wear. Check the front end of the pushrod

2 for wear and blow compressed air through the holes.

Clutch springs

3 must have a minimum length of 29.0 mm (new 30.77 mm). If necessary, replace all 6 at the same time.

The clutch disks must be even. 10 steel lamella

4 – may not have any recesses.

11 lining disks 5, wear limit 2.65 mm Inner clutch hub

6 – check the outer and inner teeth for wear.

Needle bearing

7 – check for wear.

Springs in the outer clutch hub

Springs dampen the drive train from the primary drive to the clutch. Check these springs in addition to performing the regular wear tests. Try to turn the outer clutch hub when the engine is blocked – you should not feel any backlash.

Check the sides of the clutch pressure booster

9 for wear.

Page 66

5-15

Shift mechanism – checking parts for wear

Shift forks

Check the leaf for wear. Check the driving bolt

for the shift drum for wear.

Shift rolls

Check the shift rolls for hair cracks and pressure marks. It should be easy to turn the shift rolls on the driving bolts

of the shift forks. Shift drum

Check the shift grooves for wear. Check both grooved ball bearings in the shift drum for wear.

Shift rail

Check for wear at the points of contact. Check the return surface

on the shift rail for wear

(replace if excessively grooved). Guide bolts

Check for a tight fit and wear. Guidance

Check play (play between guide bolts and slider max. 0.7 mm).

Preassembling the shift shaft

– Mount the shift rail on the shift shaft by engaging the guide bolt 6. – Attach the spring

and slide on the plastic sleeve 8.

NOTE: the noses on the plastic sleeve will engage in the opening in the shift rail and the shift shaft and hold the spring in place.

– Mount the return spring

such that the offset Aruns towards the

shift quadrant.

– Slide the disk

onto the shift shaft.

Page 67

5-16

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

General information on servicing the transmission

– Clamp the main shaft in the vise (use protective jaws) and remove the

gears. – Clean and check all parts.

Use new lock rings whenever you repair the transmission. Check the tooth profile on the transmission shafts and sliding gears for

wear. Place the sliding gears on the transmission shafts and check whether

they run smoothly on the teeth. Check the bearing positions on the transmission shafts. Mount the idler gear with bearings on the transmission shaft and check

for clearance. Check the needle bearings in the idler gears.

Assembling the main shaft

–Clamp the main shaft in the vise (use protective jaws) with the gear

facing down. –Mount the needle bearing

1 and slide the 5th gear idler 2 over the

needle bearing with the claws pointing up. – Mount the stop disk

3 (28.3 x 35.75 x 1.5 mm) and the lock ring 4

with the sharp edge facing up. – Mount the 3rd and 4th gear sliding gear

5 with 4th gear (larger

outer diameter) facing down. – Mount the stop disk

6 (22.2 x 30,2 x 1.5 mm).

–Slip on the needle bearing

7 and slide the 6th gear idler 8 over the

needle bearing with the claws pointing down. – Slip on the 2nd gear fixed gear

9 with the collar facing down and

mount the stop disk

bk (20.2 x 28 x 1.5 mm).

Check all gear wheels for smooth operation.

Page 68

5-17

General information on servicing the transmission

– Clamp the main shaft or countershaft in the vise (use protective jaws)

and remove the gears. Pull off the bearing ring.

– Clean and check all parts. Use new lock rings whenever you repair the transmission. Check the tooth profile on the transmission shafts and sliding gears for

wear. Place the sliding gears on the transmission shafts and check whether

they run smoothly on the teeth. Check the bearing positions on the transmission shafts. Mount the idler gear with bearings on the transmission shaft and check

for clearance. Check the needle bearings in the idler gears. Mount the bearing ring

using a suitable tube.

Assembling the countershaft

– Clamp the countershaft in the vise (use protective jaws) with the

collar facing down.

– Oil the needle bearing

and mount.

– Slide the 2nd gear idler

with the groove facing up over the needle

bearing.

– Mount the stop disk

(30.2 x 39 x 1.5 mm) and the lock ring

with the sharp edge facing up.

– Mount the 6th gear sliding gear

with the shift groove facing up.

–Mount the lock ring

with the sharp edge facing down and the stop

disk

(26.2 x 36 x 1.5 mm).

– Mount the needle bearing

and 9and slide the 3rd gear idler

over the needle bearing with the collar facing up.

– Slip on the 4th gear idler

with the collar facing down.

– Mount the stop disk

(26.2 x 36 x 1.5 mm) and lock ring bnwith

the sharp edge facing up.

– Mount the 5th gear sliding gear

with the shift groove facing down

and the stop disk

(24.3 x 35.75 x 1.0 mm).

–Mount the 1st gear idler

with the groove facing down, the needle

bearing

and the stop disk bs(20.2 x 34 x 1.0 mm).

Check all gear wheels for smooth operation.

Page 69

5-18

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Checking the freewheel

– Insert the freewheel gear 1in the freewheel. –You should be able to turn the freewheel gear in a counterclockwise

direction. – The freewheel gear should block without backlash in a clockwise

direction. – Check the reduction gear

and the needle bearings 3for wear,

replace if necessary.

Replacing the freewheel hub

– Remove the 6 bolts, tap the side of the freewheel hub with a plastic

hammer and remove the freewheel hub.

– Hold the components of the freewheel 4together. – Check the segments in the freewheel for wear. –

Check the freewheel hub 5at the freewheel running surface for wear. – Apply Loctite 648 to the flange areas on the rotor and the freewheel

hub. – Mount the freewheel hub on the rotor. – Apply Loctite 648 to the thread of the bolts and tighten the bolts

crosswise to 13 Nm.

CAUTION

LWAYS USE NEW BOLTS

(QUALITY GRADE 12.9) AND COAT BOLT THREAD WITH

LOCTITE 648. – Generously oil the freewheel and insert in the freewheel hub.

Starter

– Since the starter will show little wear after 10,000 starts and the

replacement of individual parts is uneconomical, these steps will not

be described in detail at this point. – Replace the O-ring

on the starter flange.

Page 70

Page 71

ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

Repair manual KTM LC8

Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

OIL PUMPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-2

TRANSMISSION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-4

CASE HALF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-5

SHIFT MECHANISM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-6

ALIGNING THE RETURN SPRING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-6

BALANCER SHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-7

FREEWHEEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-7

ROTOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-7

GENERATOR COVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-8

TIMING CHAIN AND BALANCING WEIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-8

PRIMARY PINION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-9

OUTER CLUTCH HUB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-9

CLUTCH DISKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-10

CLUTCH COVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-11

OIL SCREEN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-12

WATER PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-12

CYLINDER HEAD REAR WITH TIMING CHAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-13

CHAIN TENSIONER CYLINDER REAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-15

CAMSHAFTS CYLINDER REAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-16

SETTING CYLINDER FRONT TO TDC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-17

CYLINDER HEAD FRONT WITH TIMING CHAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-17

CHAIN TENSIONER CYLINDER FRONT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-19

OIL PRESSURE SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-19

CAMSHAFTS CYLINDER FRONT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-20

STARTER MOTOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-21

SPARK PLUG SHAFT INSERTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-22

VALVE COVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-22

INDEX

6-1

Page 72

Page 73

Clean all parts thoroughly before reassembling. – Clamp the output-end engine case on the engine work stand and

move into a vertical position (installation position).

Oil pumps

NOTE: lubricate the oil pump rotors and the oil pump shaft prior to installation.

– Slide the outer rotor of the pressure pump into the bore with the

mark

1 facing the engine case.

– Insert the needle roller

2 on the pressure pump in the oil pump shaft

and slide on the inner rotor

3 of the pressure pump. The mark 4 on

the inner rotor of the pressure pump must point to the groove

5 in

the oil pump shaft. – Insert the oil pump shaft and inner rotor of the pressure pump into

the engine case. NOTE: contrary to common practice, the two marks for the outer and

inner rotor of the pressure pump are not on the same side.

– Mount the pressure pump case

6 and fix with the short bolt 7

(M6x25) (apply Loctite 243 to the bolt but do not tighten yet). Do

not forget the centering pins on the pressure pump housing.

– Insert the needle roller in the oil pump shaft and slide on the inner

rotor

8 of the suction pump. Mount the outer rotor 9 such that the

mark

bk is visible on the outside.

NOTE: the marks for the outer and inner rotors (

bk and bl) of the

suction pump are on the same side.

– Hold the outer rotor in place while you slide the suction pump

housing bm over the rotor. Do not forget the centering pins. – Replace the O-ring and lubricate.

6-2

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Page 74

– Apply Loctite 243 to the three remaining oil pump bolts (M6x40) and

screw in. Tighten bolts to 10 Nm.

–Slide on the disk, insert the needle roller

1 and mount the oil pump

gear

2 with the collar facing the rear.

– Slide on the spacer washer

3 and mount the lock ring 4 on the oil

pump shaft.

– Check the oil pump for smooth operation by turning the oil pump

gear.

6-3

Page 75

6-4

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Transmission

– Simultaneously push both transmission shafts into the bearing seats. NOTE: pay attention to the spacing washer on the countershaft.

– Slide the washer on the counter shaft and mount the lock ring

– Move the engine into a horizontal position.

– Insert the lower gearshift rail springs in the bores with the tapered

ends down. – Position the shift forks

2 in the shift grooves and tilt aside, paying

attention to the shift rollers

3 – fix with grease if necessary. Mount

the shift drum

4 and allow the shift forks to engage in the shift

drum. NOTE: since 3 different shift forks are used they cannot be confused

with each other.

– Mount the gearshift rails 5, paying attention to the lower gearshift

rail springs. Insert the upper gearshift rail springs in the gearshift rails

with the tapered ends up. NOTE: the longer gearshift rail is used for the countershaft shift forks. – Insert the oil rail for transmission lubrication

6 in the bore and turn

to engage the locking pin.

Page 76

6-5

– Position the pin and spring in the shifting drum. Mount the gear

sensor

2 with 2 M5x10 bolts. Tighten bolts to 4 Nm.

– Slide in a new oil filter and mount the oil filter cover

3 with a new

gasket. Tighten M5x16 bolts to 6 Nm.

– Insert the crankshaft in the friction bearing. NOTE: – The crankshaft and the thread for the primary pinion bolt connection

must point down.

– The conrod for the rear cylinder

1 must face up. Both conrods should

be in the position shown in the illustration.

– Mount the case dowel pins and put a new case gasket in place.

Case half

– Slide the protective sleeve 600.29.005.000 over the countershaft. – Slip on the generator-end case half. Tap lightly on the countershaft

with a rubber hammer if necessary.

CAUTION

O NOT TRY TO DRAW THE TWO CASE HALVES TOGETHER WITH THE CASE BOLTS

– Screw in all HH case bolts (see illustration for bolt

lengths) and tighten to 10 Nm.

NOTE: the bolts should be tightened in the order shown in the illustration (numbers in parentheses).

– Move the case into a horizontal position with the

generator side facing up.

M6x65(19)

M6x65(20)

M6x65(21)

M6x90(2)

M6x90(3)

M6x90(4)

M6x40(5)

M6x40(6)

M6x40(7)

M6x90(1)

M6x40(8)

M6x60(9)

M6x60(10)

M6x60(11)

M6x60(13)

M6x75(14)

M6x60(15)

M6x65(16)

M6x65(17)

M6x65(18)

M6x75(12)

Page 77

Shift mechanism

– Mount the locking lever 1 with the spring. Apply Loctite 243 to the

M5x20 bolt and tighten to 8 Nm. –Press the locking lever down and mount the shift locating drum

NOTE: the flat parts of the shift locating drum are off center.

– Apply Loctite 243 to the M6x30 bolt

3 and tighten to 10 Nm.

– Slide the shift shaft

4 in the bearings, push the shift rail 5 away

from the shift locating drum and press the shift shaft towards the

case to the stop; let go of the shift rail.

Aligning the return spring

– Engage second or third gear. – Check the backlash of the shift rail and the clearance of the shift bolt. – The backlash of the shift rail is the distance the rail travels until the

shift shaft begins to move. You should be able to feel the pressure of

the return spring. Relative to the basic position, this backlash

should be equal towards the top and towards the bottom. – The backlash can be corrected by aligning the return spring.

–To align, dismount the shift shaft and bend the return spring as

needed at the bends

B using a pair of pliers. Remount the shift shaft.

When the shift shaft is installed, the return spring must rest against

the shift bolt

6 and the dolly of the shift mechanism support.

– Bend the return spring again if necessary.

6-6

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Page 78

6-7

– Screw on the generator-end timing chain tensioning rail 1. Apply

Loctite 243 to the bolt and tighten to 20 Nm.

CAUTION

AKE SURE NO LOCTITE THREAD ADHESIVE IS ON THE PIVOT AREA OF THE BOLT. THIS

COULD CAUSE THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONING RAIL TO BLOCK AND BREAK

Balancer shaft

– Heat the generator-end bearings of the balancer shaft evenly with a

heat gun.

– Fit the timing chain on the generator end (pay attention to the

running direction if the chain has already been used) and slide into the balancer shaft

2. The timing chain must be placed over the rear

sprocket. – Attach a stop disk (22 x 29.5 x 2.4 mm) to the balancer shaft – Check the balancer shaft for smooth operation.

Freewheel

– Slip the freewheel 3 on the crankshaft and attach the locking device

4 with 2 M6x16 bolts. Apply Loctite 243 to the bolts and tighten to

10 Nm. – Attach the lower starter idler gear

5 to the balancer shaft with the

collar on the inside.

Rotor

– Hold the freewheel with your finger while mounting the rotor, turning

it in a counterclockwise direction.

– Mount the rotor bolt

6 with disk, apply Loctite 243 to the bolt and

tighten to 150 Nm. NOTE: to prevent the crankshaft from turning, block it with the engine

lock bolt. –Mount the upper starter idler gear

7 on the journal.

Page 79

6-8

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Generator cover

– Mount dowel pins on the engine case and put a new gasket in place.

Position the generator cover and tighten the generator cover bolts to 10 Nm (see illustration for bolt lengths).

– Mount the chain sprocket with the lock washer and tighten the nut

1 to 60 Nm.

Timing chain and balancing weight

– Screw the output-end timing chain tensioning rail 2. Apply Loctite

243 to the bolt and tighten to 20 Nm.

CAUTION

AKE SURE NO LOCTITE THREAD ADHESIVE IS ON THE PIVOT AREA OF THE BOLT. THIS

COULD CAUSE THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONING RAIL TO BLOCK AND BREAK

– Insert the woodruff key for the chain sprocket in the shaft groove and

push the chain sprocket onto the balancer shaft. Fit the timing chain (pay attention to the running direction if the chain has already been used).

– Insert the woodruff key for the balancing weight in the shaft groove

and mount the balancing weight

3 with the aperture 4 towards the

front.

M6x30

M6x35

M6x30

Page 80

Primary pinion

–Mount the woodruff key for the primary pinion in the shaft groove (if

dismounted). – Mount the primary pinion

1 with the longer collar facing the back.

The pin for the ring gear must face outside.

– Mount the gear wheel of the balancer shaft

2 with the collar facing

the back.

CAUTION

URN THE BALANCER SHAFT UNTIL THE MARKS ON GEARS FOR THE CRANKSHAFT 3

AND BALANCER SHAFT 4 COINCIDE AS SHOWN IN THE ILLUSTRATION

. MAKE SURE

THE TIMING CHAINS DO NOT GET CAUGHT

NOTE: when the marks coincide the first cylinder of the engine is in the TDC position.

– Slide a 30.3 x 50 x 2 mm spacer washer

5 and a needle bearing 6

on the clutch shaft. – Mount the gear for the oil pump drive on the back of the outer clutch

hub. The gear is secured by 3 needle rollers.

Outer clutch hub

– Slide the outer clutch hub onto the shaft, leaving enough room for

the ring gear

7, which is positioned by a pin.

CAUTION

HE RING GEAR HAS A MARK A WHICH FACES THE OUTSIDE.

– After mounting the ring gear on the crankshaft, push the outer clutch

hub up to the stop, moving the oil pump wheel back and forth to

make the procedure easier.

– Mount a 33.2 x 46 x 2 disk and nut

8 (A/F 46 mm) on the primary

pinion (LH thread). Apply Loctite 243 to the nut and tighten to

130 Nm. – Mount a 20.2 x 33 x 1.5 mm disk and nut

9 on the balancer shaft.

Apply Loctite 243 to the nut and tighten to 150 Nm. – Screw on the pickup

bk. Apply Loctite 243 to the bolts (M6x16) and

tighten to 10 Nm. Press the cable duct into the recess in the case. NOTE: the distance between the pickup and the ring gear must be

between 0.6 mm and 1.0 mm.

6-9

Page 81

6-10

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

– Slide the 25 x 48 x 6.5 mm disk and inner clutch hub together with

the clutch pressure booster onto the main shaft teeth.

NOTE: the two clutch pressure booster parts are marked with coinciding circles.

– Attach the holder for the inner clutch hub

A 600.29.003.000. Mount

the 22 x 37 x 3 mm disk. Apply Loctite 243 to the nut (A/F 32 mm) and tighten to 130 Nm. Remove support.

–Turn the inner clutch hub to check for smooth operation.

– Push the clutch pushrod into the transmission main shaft. – The marks

B on the pressure cap and inner clutch hub must coincide

when the pressure cap is mounted.

– Mount the pressure springs with disks and bolts (M6x16). Tighten the

bolts crosswise to 10 Nm.

Clutch disks

– First mount the supporting plate 1 and then the

spring washer

2 with the open side facing

outwards (see illustration).

– Starting with the lining disk

3 with the largest

inner diameter, alternately insert 11 lining disks and 10 clutch disks.

NOTE: – Thoroughly oil all disks. – The clutch lining on the first and last clutch disks

have a different color since these two disks run on aluminum on one side.

– The first clutch disk has a larger inner diameter to

hold the support and lining disk.

– The clutch disks are punched out. The sharp edges

on all of the disks must point in the same direction. The round recesses (for demounting) must be in the same meshing.

– The last lining disk must be turned one meshing

further.

Page 82

6-11

–Turn the water pump shaft 1 until the recess fits over the driver 2 of

the balancer shaft when the clutch cover is mounted.

– Mount the inner clutch cover together with the outer clutch cover,

inserting the bolts as illustrated. Tighten to 10 Nm. – Screw the locking bolt back in.

M6x30

M6x85

M6x30

M6x35

M6x30

Clutch cover

– Mount the dowel pins on the engine case and put

a new clutch cover gasket in place.

NOTE: remove the locking bolt to make it easier to mount the clutch cover.

Page 83

6-12

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Oil screen

– Insert the oil screen 1 in the opening in the case.

NOTE: the oil screen has a TOP marking

2 which must point up.

– Mount the oil screen cover; tighten the two M6x35/M6x40 bolts to

10 Nm.

Water pump

– Mount the water pump wheel 3 and disk on the shaft. Hold with

the holding spanner 600.29.082.000, secure the bolt

4 M6x15 with

Loctite 243 and tighten to 10 Nm.

– Mount the dowel pins and replace the O-ring gasket. – Mount the water pump cover 5 with 4 M6x60 bolts. Tighten to

10 Nm.

Page 84

6-13

Cylinder head rear with timing chain

– Mount a new base gasket. NOTE: make sure the crankshaft is blocked in the cylinder rear TDC

position. – Fit the timing chain and chain tensioning rail in the cylinder. NOTE:

– The chain guide is mounted on the exhaust side of cylinder rear. – The timing chain should be drawn up and held in the chain tunnel

with a thin welding wire

1 or a rubber band.

– Push the cylinder head and cylinder over the stud bolts until the

piston pin can be pressed into the piston by hand from the output

end. Insert a new piston pin retainer with a screwdriver into the

piston groove.

CAUTION

–D

O NOT PULL THE PISTON OUT OF THE CYLINDER UP TO THE OIL SCRAPER RING SINCE THE PISTON RING WILL BE DAMAGED BY THE LOWER EDGE OF THE CYLINDER

–T

HE OPENING TOWARDS THE CRANKSHAFT SHOULD BE COVERED WITH A CLOTH

TO PREVENT THE PISTON PIN RETAINER FROM FALLING OUT OF THE ENGINE CASE

–T

HE PISTON PIN RETAINER 2 MUST BE IN THE POSITION SHOWN IN THE

ILLUSTRATION

– Push the cylinder head and cylinder down. Mount the cylinder head

nuts.

The cylinder head nuts are tightened in 2 stages. 1st stage:

–Tighten the cylinder head nuts crosswise. Use the special nut

600.29.083.000 for the internal nuts

3 and the special wrench

600.29.081.000 for the outer nut

CAUTION

–THE TIGHTENING TORQUE FOR THE 1ST STAGE IS 25 NM. SINCE THE SPECIAL

WRENCH

600.29.081.000 IS USED FOR NUT 4, IT MUST BE TIGHTENED TO 23

NM.

–T

HE TORQUE WRENCH USED MUST BE USED IN LINE WITH THE SPECIAL WRENCH

600.29.081.000 (SEE ILLUSTRATION).

–Tighten the two outer nuts

5 to 8 Nm.

2nd stage: –Tighten the cylinder head nuts crosswise.

CAUTION

–

HE TIGHTENING TORQUE FOR THE2ND STAGE IS

43 NM.

SINCE THE SPECIAL WRENCH

600.29.081.000

IS USED FOR NUT

IT MUST BE TIGHTENED TO

36 NM.

–THE TORQUE WRENCH USED MUST BE USED IN LINE WITH THE SPECIAL WRENCH

600.29.081.000 (SEE ILLUSTRATION).

Page 85

6-14

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

– Push the double timing gear down into the chain tunnel draw the

timing chain along the side on the inside.

– Use the wire hook

A to lift the side of the chain on the inside over

the gear teeth

1 onto the chain teeth 2 of the double timing gear.

Hold the double timing gear towards the outside by inserting your finger through the hole in the bearing bolt.

–Mount and grease a new O-ring on the bearing bolt

3 of the double

timing gear.

– Lift the double timing gear, insert the bearing bolt on the double

timing gear and the needle bearing into the cylinder head and tighten to 30 Nm.

Page 86

6-15

Chain tensioner cylinder rear

– Insert the chain tensioner element 1 in the cylinder head bore.

NOTE: the housing and tensioning piston of the chain tensioner are compression molded. If the two parts cannot be separated, the chain tensioner must be replaced.

– Apply the chain tensioner bolt and new sealing washer to the chain

tensioner element without compressing the spring.

– Measure the distance

2 between the sealing washer and the cylinder

head.

The measured value has to be between 6 mm and 11 mm. If the value is lower, the tensioning rail could be worn or the timing chain excessively elongated. If it is higher, the engine was turned to TDC against the running direction.

– Mount the chain tensioner bolt

3 with a new sealing washer and

tighten to 20 Nm.

Page 87

6-16

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Camshafts cylinder rear

– Insert the two camshafts marked "in re" (rear intake camshaft) and

"ex re" (rear exhaust camshaft) into the bearings without tilting. The marks on the camshaft gears must coincide with the flat outer surface of the cylinder head (see illustrations).

NOTE: – The same camshaft gears are used in both cylinders but they have

marks for cylinder rear and front. Use the camshaft gear marked with a cross

1 for cylinder rear and the camshaft gear marked with a circle

for cylinder front.

– The cams

2 of both camshafts on the cylinder rear will point towards

the inside in the TDC position.

– The camshaft bearing bridges

3 and the cylinder heads 4 have

coinciding marks to ensure that the same camshaft bearing bridge is mounted on the same cylinder head.

– Place plastigauge measuring strips

5 (600.29.012.000) on the

camshaft bearing positions.

– Carefully mount the camshaft bearing bridge and tighten the bolts in

the camshaft bearing bridge to 10 Nm (M8) and 5 Nm (M6) in the first stage.

–Tighten to 18 Nm (M8) and 10 Nm (M6) in the second stage.

CAUTION

HEN TIGHTENING THE BOLTS OF THE CAMSHAFT BEARING BRIDGE, MAKE SURE THAT

THE VALVES ARE NOT ACTUATED BY THE CAMSHAFT

(SEE ILLUSTRATION), OTHERWISE

THE BEARING BRIDGE WILL BREAK

. NOTE: do not turn the camshafts. – Remove the camshaft bearing bridge again and compare the width of

the plastigauge measuring strip

6 with the information on the

packing. The width of the plastiguage measuring strip is equivalent to the bearing clearance.

Camshaft bearing clearance: 0.020 mm – 0.061 mm

Wear limit: 0.09 mm

– Carefully mount the camshaft bearing bridge and tighten the bolts in

the camshaft bearing bridge to 10 Nm (M8) and 5 Nm (M6) in the first stage.

–Tighten to 18 Nm (M8) and 10 Nm (M6) in the second stage.

Page 88

6-17

75º

Setting cylinder front to TDC

– Loosen the crankshaft locking bolt and turn the engine

counterclockwise 1 rotation and then 75° towards the front cylinder's TDC position, keeping the timing chain on the cylinder rear slightly tensioned and holding the conrod in the center of the opening in the case.

CAUTION

–T

HE CRANKSHAFT MUST BE TURNED 1 ROTATION AND 75° IN A

COUNTERCLOCKWISE DIRECTION

, OTHERWISE THE IGNITION INTERVAL WILL NOT

BE CORRECT AND THE MOTOR WILL NOT RUN

–I

F YOU DO NOT HOLD THE CHAIN, IT MAY GET JAMMED BETWEEN THE TIMING

CHAIN ON THE CRANKSHAFT AND THE TENSIONING RAIL

–I

F THE CONROD IS NOT POSITIONED IN THE CENTER OF THE OPENING IN THE

CASE

, THE CONROD BOTTOM WILL BLOCK ON THE BALANCER SHAFT AND

PREVENT THE CRANKSHAFT FROM TURNING

– Screw the crankshaft locking bolt back in.

Cylinder head front with cylinder and timing chain

– Mount a new base gasket. NOTE: make sure the crankshaft is blocked in the cylinder front TDC

position. – Fit the timing chain and chain tensioning rail in the cylinder. Tilt the

chain tensioning rail

1 towards the chain to allow it to engage in the

chain tunnel of the engine case.

NOTE: – The chain guide is mounted on the intake side of cylinder front . – The timing chain should be drawn up and held in the chain tunnel

with a thin welding wire or a rubber band.

– Push the cylinder head and cylinder over the stud bolts until the

piston pin can be pressed into the piston by hand from the output end. Insert a new piston pin retainer with a screwdriver into the piston groove.

CAUTION

–DO NOT PULL THE PISTON OUT OF THE CYLINDER UP TO THE OIL SCRAPER RING

SINCE THE PISTON RING WILL BE DAMAGED BY THE LOWER EDGE OF THE CYLINDER

–THE OPENING TOWARDS THE CRANKSHAFT SHOULD BE COVERED WITH A CLOTH

TO PREVENT THE PISTON PIN RETAINER FROM FALLING OUT OF THE ENGINE CASE

–T

HE PISTON PIN RETAINER 2 MUST BE IN THE POSITION SHOWN IN THE

ILLUSTRATION

Page 89

6-18

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

– Push the cylinder head and cylinder down. Mount the cylinder head

nuts.

The cylinder head nuts are tightened in 2 stages. 1st stage:

–Tighten the cylinder head nuts crosswise. Use the special nut

600.29.083.000 for the internal nuts

1 and the special wrench

600.29.081.000 for the outer nut

CAUTION

–T

HE TIGHTENING TORQUE FOR THE 1ST STAGE IS 25 NM. SINCE THE SPECIAL

WRENCH

600.29.081.000

IS USED FOR NUT

3, IT MUST BE TIGHTENED TO

23 NM.

–T

HE TORQUE WRENCH USED MUST BE USED IN LINE WITH THE SPECIAL WRENCH

600.29.081.000 (SEE ILLUSTRATION

–Tighten the two outer nuts 2 to 8 Nm. 2nd stage:

–Tighten the cylinder head nuts crosswise.

CAUTION

–THE TIGHTENING TORQUE FOR THE

2ND STAGE IS

43 NM. SINCE THE SPECIAL

WRENCH

600.29.081.000 IS USED FOR NUT 3, IT MUST BE TIGHTENED TO

36 NM.

–T

HE TORQUE WRENCH USED MUST BE USED IN LINE WITH THE SPECIAL WRENCH

600.29.081.000 (SEE ILLUSTRATION).

– Use the wire hook

A to lift the side of the chain on the inside over

the gear teeth

4 onto the chain teeth 5 of the double timing gear.

Hold the double timing gear towards the outside by inserting your finger through the hole in the bearing bolt.

–Mount and grease a new O-ring on the bearing bolt

6 of the double

timing gear.

– Lift the double timing gear, insert the bearing bolt on the double

timing gear and the needle bearing into the cylinder head and tighten to 30 Nm.

Page 90

6-19

Chain tensioner cylinder front

– Insert the chain tensioning element 1 in the cylinder head bore.

NOTE: the housing and tensioning piston of the chain tensioner are compression molded. If the two parts cannot be separated, the chain tensioner must be replaced.

– Apply the chain tensioner bolt and new sealing washer to the chain

tensioner element without compressing the spring.

– Measure the distance

2 between the sealing washer and the cylinder

head.

– Mount the chain tensioner bolt

3 and tighten to 20 Nm.

Oil pressure switch

– Mount the oil pressure switch 4 with a new sealing washer and

tighten to 10 Nm.

Page 91

6-20

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Camshafts cylinder front

– Insert the two camshafts marked "in fr" (front intake camshaft) and

"ex fr" (front exhaust camshaft) into the bearings without tilting. The marks on the camshaft gears must coincide with the cylinder head surface (see illustrations).

NOTE: – The same camshaft gears are used in both cylinders but they have

marks for cylinder rear and front. Use the camshaft gear marked with a cross for cylinder rear and the camshaft gear marked with a circle

for cylinder front.

– The cams

2 of both camshafts on the cylinder front will point

towards the outside in the TDC position.

– The camshaft bearing bridges

3 and the cylinder heads 4 have

coinciding marks to ensure that the same camshaft bearing bridge is mounted on the same cylinder head.

– Place plastigauge measuring strips

5 (600.29.012.000) on the

camshaft bearing positions.

– Carefully mount the camshaft bearing bridge and tighten the bolts in

the camshaft bearing bridge to 10 Nm (M8) and 5 Nm (M6) in the first stage.

–Tighten to 18 Nm (M8) and 10 Nm (M6) in the second stage.

CAUTION

HEN TIGHTENING THE BOLTS OF THE CAMSHAFT BEARING BRIDGE, MAKE SURE THAT

THE VALVES ARE NOT ACTUATED BY THE CAMSHAFT

(SEE ILLUSTRATION), OTHERWISE

THE BEARING BRIDGE WILL BREAK

. NOTE: do not turn the camshafts. – Remove the camshaft bearing bridge again and compare the width of

the plastigauge measuring strip

6 with the information on the

packing. The width of the plastiguage measuring strip is equivalent to the bearing clearance.

Camshaft bearing clearance: 0.020 mm – 0.061 mm

Wear limit: 0.09 mm

– Carefully mount the camshaft bearing bridge and tighten the bolts in

the camshaft bearing bridge to 10 Nm (M8) and 5 Nm (M6) in the first stage.

–Tighten to 18 Nm (M8) and 10 Nm (M6) in the second stage.

Page 92

6-21

NOTE: – Check the position of the camshafts on cylinder front in the TDC

position of cylinder rear. The cams on the exhaust camshaft

1 will

point towards the inside and rest against the bucket tappet. The cams on the intake camshaft

2 also point towards the inside, the bucket

tappets are not actuated. If the camshafts are in a different position, check the timing and reset.

– Check valve clearance (see page 12-7)

– Remove the crankshaft blocking tool

3. Insert the case bolt (M8x60)

with a new sealing washer and tighten to 10 Nm.

– Screw the plug

4 into the generator cover.

Starter motor

– Insert the starter motor into the opening in the case with a new

O-ring (greased). Insert both bolts

5 (M6x25) and tighten to

10 Nm.

Page 93

6-22

Repair manual KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Spark plug shaft inserts

– Mount new O-rings 1 on the spark plug shafts and grease. Push the

spark plug shaft inserts all the way in.

– Mount the valve cover gaskets

2 and spark plug shaft gaskets 3.

Valve cover

–Mount the valve cover. Insert bolts 4 with the sealing washers and

tighten to 10 Nm.

– Screw in the spark plugs with special tool 600.29.073.000 and

tighten to 12 Nm. Connect the spark plug connectors.

Page 94

Page 95

ELECTRICAL

Repair manual KTM LC8

Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

CHECKING FOR LOSS OF CURRENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-2

DISMOUNTING THE BATTERY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-2

CHARGING THE BATTERY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-2

JUMP START . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.2

CHECKING THE CHARGING VOLTAGE/ RECTIFIER REGULATOR . . . . . . . . .7-2

CHECKING THE GENERATOR COILS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-2

ELECTRIC STARTER SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.3

CHECKING THE AUXILIARY STARTER RELAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-4

FUNCTIONAL CHECK OF THE AUXILIARY STARTER RELAY . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-4

CHECKING THE DIODES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-4

CHECKING THE STARTER RELAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-5

CHECKING THE STARTER EINGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-5

CHECKING THE CLUTCH SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-5

CHECKING THE TIP SWITCH AND THE EMERGENCY OFF SWITCH . . . . . .7-5

TROUBLESHOOTING IN THE STARTER SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-5

IGNITION SYSTEM, ECU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-6

CHECKING THE ECU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-7

CHECKING THE PULSE GENERATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-7

CHECKING THE FUEL PUMP RELAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-7

CHECKING THE IGNITION COILS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-7

TROUBLESHOOTING IN THE IGNITION SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-8

THE EPC SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.9

CHECKING THE SOLENOID VALVE FOR THE EPC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-10

CHECKING THE GEAR SENSOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-10

INDEX

7-1

Page 96

Page 97

7-2

Reparaturanleitung KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Checking for loss of current

Check for loss of current before you check the rectifier regulator. – Switch off the ignition and disconnect the ground wire from the

battery.

– Connect an ammeter between the ground wire and the negative pole

on the battery.

Set point value: max. 2 mA

– If the value is higher, look for the current consumers.

For example: –a defective regulator/rectifier –a defective multifunctional digital speedometer –Creepage current in the socket connectors or in the ignition lock

NOTE: you will need to set the clock on the multifunctional digital speedometer after the battery is connected.

Dismounting/replacing the battery

see Chapter 3

Charging the battery

see Owner's Manual page 33

Jump start

see Owner's Manual page 33

Checking the charging voltage / rectifier regulator

NOTE: the following figures only apply to fully charged batteries. – Connect a voltmeter to both battery terminals. –Start the engine and switch on the low beam. – Rev the engine up to 5000 rpm and read the voltage.

Set point value: 14.0 – 15.0 V

If the measured value deviates significantly from the set point value: – Check the socket connectors from the stator to the regulator rectifier

and from the regulator rectifier to the cable tree. – Check the generator coils – Replace the regulator rectifier

Checking the generator coils

– Disconnect the socket connector 1 and measure the 3 cables

(yellow) to the generator back to back for resistance.

Set point value: max 1.0 Ω at 20°C

– Check all three cables for short circuit to ground. – Check both connectors for damage.

0,00

Page 98

7-3

Electric starter system

NOTE: the starter system is equipped with a safety feature. You will only be able to start under the following conditions:

– If the gnition lock is in the ON position – If the emergency OFF switch is in the ON position – If the transmission is shifted to neutral or the clutch is pulled

How the starter system operates: Battery voltage travels from the battery

1 through the ignition lock 2 , fuse 3 and the emergency OFF switch 4 to the coil of the

auxiliary starter relay

5 .

The ground supply to the coil of the auxiliary starter relay takes place if at least one of the following conditions are met: –Transmission is shifted to neutral (neutral switch

6 is closed, current can flow through diode 7 and the neutral switch against

the ground)

– Clutch is pulled (clutch switch

8 is closed, the current can flow through the clutch switch against the ground)

NOTE: if these conditions are met, the load contact from the coil is closed (nonrecurring "click “). When the tip switch

9 is actuated, battery voltage flows through the closed contact on the of the auxiliary start relay 5 to the

coil of the start relay

bk and from there against the ground. This causes the contact on the start relay to close and battery voltage

to flow via the start relay contact to the starter engine

bl .

The diode

bm is one of the electric starter system's important safety features which prevents the starter engine from being actuated

although a gear is engaged and the clutch is not pulled. The diode does not allow current to flow when the side stand is folded down, in other words, the auxiliary starter relay will not have a ground connection via the side stand switch.

If the clutch is released with the engine running and a gear engaged although the side stand is folded down (driving off with the side stand folded down) the ECU will not have a ground connection through the pink cable, the voltage will increase to over 2.5 volts and the ECU will break the ignition, immediately causing the engine to stall.

An alarm system (accessory) can be connected to the BA/BF

bn connectors. The two connectors must be connected together if no

alarm system is installed.

battery

start/stop!switch

start-relay

red!4

C_BB/9 C_AB/9

C_AE/4

start!auxillary!relay

red!4

red!0.5

orange!0.5

red!0.5

orange!0.5

C_AF/4

C_BF1/1

C_BA1/1

10!A

black-orange!0.5

yellow!0.5

starter!motor

brown!0.5

A page!7/9

fuse

ignition!switch

orange!1

green-black!0.5

C_AI/2

diode

brown!0.5

C_AR/2

C_AM3/3

sidestand!switch

yellow!0.5

pink!0.5

C_AR/3

C_AM2/3

C_AI1/2

diode

B page!4/9

2nd 3th N

C_AL

clutch!switch

yellow!0.5

C_AT2/2

neutral!switch!(N)!/!2nd!gear!/!3th!gear

brown!0.5

Page 99

7-4

Reparaturanleitung KTM LC8 Art.-Nr. 3.206.009-E

Checking the auxiliary starter relay

– Dismount the auxiliary starter relay 1. NOTE: orange, yellow, red and white/red cable colors.

– Connect the auxiliary starter relay (see drawing) to a 12 V battery,

making sure you hear the relay switch (nonrecurring "click"). NOTE: the 12 V battery must be connected to the two terminals to

which the orange and yellow cable colors are connected when the plug is connected.

– Use an ohmmeter to measure the continuity between terminals

and B.

Reading: max 1.0 Ω OK

Reading: ∞Ωdefective

Functional check of the auxiliary starter relay

– Pull the auxiliary starter relay out of the bracket. – Connect an ohmmeter or continuity tester to the cable of the

auxiliary starter relay (red and red/white cables). – Perform the tests in the specified order. The auxiliary starter relay

must switch under the following 2 conditions: – Slowly pull the clutch lever with the gear engaged. The auxiliary

starter relay should switch at half of the lever travel.

If not, check the clutch switch. Observe the idle indicator lamp, it

may not light up. If it does, check the diode. – Switch the transmission to neutral with the clutch released. The

auxiliary starter relay should switch on and switch off when the gear

is engaged. If not, check the diode and neutral switch NOTE: You will hear a faint click when the auxiliary starter relay

switches. The ohmmeter or the continuity tester will display the continuity when the auxiliary starter relay is switched on.

Checking the diodes

NOTE: Diodes only conduct the current in one direction. They block in the other direction.

Diodes can have 2 defects: – the diode has no continuity. – the diode has continuity in both directions. Various malfunctions can occur, depending on the type of defect.

Each diode

2 is plugged into a bipolar connector (connector AI)

Functional check: – Connect a suitable ohmmeter to the diode and check the diode for

continuity. – Connect the ohmmeter in the other direction and check if the diode is

blocked.

Page 100

7-5

Pin 8 Pin 2 Pin 7Pin 1

Checking the starter relay

– Disconnect the negative pole from the battery and dismount the start

relay.

NOTE: white/red

1 and brown 2 cable colors.

– Connect the starter relay to a 12 V battery, making sure you hear the

relay switch (nonrecurring "click"). NOTE: the 12 V battery must be connected to the same terminals to which the 3 white/red and the brown cable are connected when the connector is attached.

– Check the continuity between the two screw terminals with an

ohmmeter.

Reading: max. 1 Ω OK

Reading: ∞Ωdefective

– Pull out the fuse of the starter relais and check for continuity.

Checking the starter engine

– Switch off the ignition. – Disconnect the negative pole of the battery and remove the electric

starter motor. – Clamp startermotor in a vice. – Connect the negative pole of a 12 V battery to the housing of the

E starter motor and briefly connect the positive pole of the battery to

connection of the electric starter motor (use thick cables). – The starter must turn as soon as the circuit is closed. – If this is not the case, replace the starter.

Checking the clutch switch

– Disconnect the clutch switch connector from the cable tree. – Connect an ohmmeter to the bipolar connector AL

3 (yellow and

brown cable colors) of the clutch switch and slowly pull the clutch

lever. – The switch should close around 2/3 of the lever travel.

Reading: max. 1 Ω when the clutch lever is pulled

Reading: ∞Ωwhen the clutch lever is not pulled

Checking the tip switch and emergency OFF switch

– Disconnect the four-terminal connector BB 4 on the tip switch /

emergency OFF switch from the cable tree. – Check both switches with an ohmmeter.

Tip switch: between pin 1 and pin 8

Reading: max. 1 Ω when the tip switch is actuated

Reading: ∞Ωwhen the tip switch is not actuated

Emergency OFF switch: between pin 2 and pin 7

Reading: max. 1 Ω when the emergency OFF switch is switched on

Reading: ∞Ωwhen the emergency OFF switch is switched off

– Afterwards check all lines for short circuit to ground.

Troubleshooting in the starter system

If you actuate the tip switch but the starter engine does not run, check the following points: – Is the ignition lock in the ON position? – Is the emergency OFF switch in the ON position? – Does the idle indicator lamp light up when the ignition is switched

on? – Can you start the engine when the clutch is pulled? – Is the battery charged? – Has the main fuse blown? – Has the fuse for the electric starter system and ignition blown? – Check the auxiliary starter relay – Check the starter relay – Check the E-starter engine

start/stop!switch

C_BB/9

KTM 950 Service Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

INTRODUCTION

REPLY FAX FOR REPAIR MANUALS

GENERAL INFORMATION

Oil system

Cooling system

REMOVING AND REFITTING ENGINE

Removing the engine

Refitting the engine

DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

Valve covers

Spark plug shaft inserts

Starter motor

Setting cylinder rear to TDC

Camshafts cylinder rear

Chain tensioner cylinder rear

Timing chain cylinder rear

Double timing gear

Cylinder head rear with cylinder

Setting cylinder front to TDC

Camshafts cylinder front

Oil pressure switch

Chain tensioner cylinder front

Timing chain cylinder front

Cylinder head front with cylinder

Water pump

Oil screen

Clutch cover

Clutch

Primary pinion and clutch

Generator cover

Rotor

Freewheel

Balancer shaft

Shift mechanism

Engine case half

Transmission

Oil pumps

SERVICING INDIVIDUAL COMPONENTS

Replacing bearing shells, output end

Replacing bearing shells, generator end

Replacing the conrod bearings

Selecting the bearing shells

Replacing the supporting bearings in the clutch cover

Overhauling the water pump

Checking the suction pump for wear

Checking the pressure pump for wear

Bypass valve

Disassembling the cylinder head and checking parts for wear

Checking the pistons

Checking the piston ring end gap

Assembly instructions for piston rings

Piston and cylinder identification

Assembling the cylinder head

Generator cover

Valve gear – checking parts for wear

Clutch – checking parts for wear

Shift mechanism – checking parts for wear

Preassembling the shift shaft

General information on servicing the transmission

Assembling the main shaft

Assembling the countershaft

Checking the freewheel

Replacing the freewheel hub

Starter

Oil pumps

Transmission

Case half

Shift mechanism

Aligning the return spring

Balancer shaft

Freewheel

Rotor

Generator cover

Timing chain and balancing weight

Primary pinion

Outer clutch hub