To ensure safe operation please read the following statements and understand their meaning. Also
refer to your equipment manufacturer's manual for other important safety information. This manual
contains safety precautions which are explained below. Please read carefully.
WARNING
Warning is used to indicate the presence of a hazard that can cause severe personal injury, death,
or substantial property damage if the warning is ignored.
CAUTION
Caution is used to indicate the presence of a hazard that will or can cause minor personal injury or
property damage if the caution is ignored.
NOTE
Note is used to notify people of installation, operation, or maintenance information that is important
but not hazard-related.
1
For Y our Safety!
These precautions should be followed at all times. Failure to follow these precautions could result in injury to
yourself and others.
WARNING
Accidental Starts can cause severe
injury or death.
Disconnect and ground spark plug
lead before servicing.
Accidental St arts!
Disabling engine. Accidental
starting can cause severe injury or
death. Before working on the engine or
equipment, disable the engine as
follows: 1) Disconnect the spark plug
lead(s). 2) Disconnect negative (-)
battery cable from battery.
Rotating Parts can cause severe
injury.
Stay away while engine is in
operation.
Rotating Part s!
Keep hands, feet, hair, and clothing
away from all moving parts to prevent
injury. Never operate the engine with
covers, shrouds, or guards removed.
WARNING
WARNING
Hot Parts can cause severe burns.
Do not touch engine while operating
or just after stopping.
Hot Parts!
Engine components can get extremely
hot from operation. To prevent severe
burns, do not touch these areas while
the engine is running - or immediately
after it is turned off. Never operate the
engine with heat shields or guards
removed.
1.1
Section 1
Safety and General Information
WARNING
Explosive Fuel can cause fires and
severe burns.
Do not fill the fuel tank while the
engine is hot or running.
Explosive Fuel!
Gasoline is extremely flammable and
its vapors can explode if ignited. Store
gasoline only in approved containers,
in well ventilated, unoccupied
buildings, away from sparks or flames.
Do not fill the fuel tank while the
engine is hot or running, since spilled
fuel could ignite if it comes in contact
with hot parts or sparks from ignition.
Do not start the engine near spilled
fuel. Never use gasoline as a cleaning
agent.
WARNING
WARNINGWARNING
Carbon Monoxide can cause severe
nausea, fainting or death.
Avoid inhaling exhaust fumes, and
never run the engine in a closed
building or confined area.
Lethal Exhaust Gases!
Engine exhaust gases contain
poisonous carbon monoxide. Carbon
monoxide is odorless, colorless, and can
cause death if inhaled. Avoid inhaling
exhaust fumes, and never run the
engine in a closed building or confined
area.
WARNING
Uncoiling Spring can cause severe
injury.
Wear safety goggles or face
protection when servicing
retractable starter.
Explosive Gas can cause fires and
severe acid burns.
Charge battery only in a well
ventilated area. Keep sources of
ignition away.
Explosive Gas!
Batteries produce explosive hydrogen
gas while being charged. To prevent a
fire or explosion, charge batteries only
in well ventilated areas. Keep sparks,
open flames, and other sources of
ignition away from the battery at all
times. Keep batteries out of the reach of
children. Remove all jewelry when
servicing batteries.
Before disconnecting the negative
(-) ground cable, make sure all switches
are OFF. If ON, a spark will occur at
the ground cable terminal which could
cause an explosion if hydrogen gas or
gasoline vapors are present.
Cleaning Solvents can cause severe
injury or death.
Use only in well ventilated areas
away from ignition sources.
Flammable Solvents!
Carburetor cleaners and solvents are
extremely flammable. Keep sparks,
flames, and other sources of ignition
away from the area. Follow the cleaner
manufacturer’s warnings and
instructions on its proper and safe use.
Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent.
Spring Under T ension!
Retractable starters contain a powerful,
recoil spring that is under tension.
Always wear safety goggles when
servicing retractable starters and
carefully follow instructions in the
Retractable Starter Section 7 for relieving
spring tension.
CAUTION
Electrical Shock can cause injury.
Do not touch wires while engine is
running.
Electrical Shock!
Never touch electrical wires or
components while the engine is
running. They can be sources of
electrical shock.
1.2
Engine Identification Numbers
When ordering parts, or in any communication
involving an engine, always give the Model,Specification, and Serial Numbers, including letter
suffixes if any.
The engine identification numbers appear on a decal,
or decals, affixed to the engine shrouding. See Figure
1-1. An explanation of these numbers is shown in
Figure 1-2.
Section 1
Safety and General Information
1
Identification
Decal
Figure 1-1. Engine Identification Decal Location.
A. Model No.
Command Engine
Horizontal Crankshaft
Horsepower
11 = 11 HP
12.5 = 12.5 HP
13 = 13 HP
14 = 14 HP
15 = 15 HP
16 = 16 HP
S = Electric Start
T = Retractable S t art
ST = Electric/Retractable S tart
GT = Generator Application/Retractable Start
GS = Generator Application/Electric Start
PT = Pump/Retractable S t art
RT = Gear Reduction/Retractable Start
Variation of
Basic Engine
Factory Code
MODEL NO.
SPEC. NO.
SERIAL NO.
REFER TO OWNER'S MANUAL FOR
SAFETY, MAINTENANCE SPECS
AND ADJUSTMENTS. FOR SALES
AND SERVICE IN US/CANADA
CALL: 1-800-544-2444.
www.kohlerengines.com
KOHLER CO. KOHLER, WI USA
CH12.5ST
1903
2005810334
A
B
C
Figure 1-2. Explanation of Engine Identification Numbers.
1.3
Section 1
Safety and General Information
Oil Recommendations
Using the proper type and weight of oil in the
crankcase is extremely important. So is checking oil
daily and changing oil regularly. Failure to use the
correct oil, or using dirty oil, causes premature engine
wear and failure.
Oil Type
Use high-quality detergent oil of API (American
Petroleum Institute) service class SG, SH, SJ, or
higher. Select the viscosity based on the air
temperature at the time of operation as shown in the
following table.
**
*Use of synthetic oil having 5W-20 or 5W-30 rating is
acceptable, up to 4°C (40°F).
**Synthetic oils will provide better starting in
extreme cold below 23°C (-10°F).
NOTE: Using other than service class SG, SH, SJ, or
higher oil or extending oil change intervals
longer than recommended can cause engine
damage.
*
Fuel Recommendations
WARNING: Explosive Fuel!
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can explode if
ignited. Store gasoline only in approved containers, in well
ventilated, unoccupied buildings, away from sparks or flames.
Do not fill the fuel tank while the engine is hot or running,
since spilled fuel could ignite if it comes in contact with hot
parts or sparks from ignition. Do not start the engine near
spilled fuel. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent.
General Recommendations
Purchase gasoline in small quantities and store in
clean, approved containers. A container with a
capacity of 2 gallons or less with a pouring spout is
recommended. Such a container is easier to handle
and helps eliminate spilling during refueling.
Do not use gasoline left over from the previous season,
to minimize gum deposits in your fuel system and to
ensure easy starting.
Do not add oil to the gasoline.
Do not overfill the fuel tank. Leave room for the fuel to
expand.
Fuel Type
For best results, use only clean, fresh, unleaded
gasoline with a pump sticker octane rating of 87 or
higher. In countries using the Research method, it
should be 90 octane minimum.
NOTE: Synthetic oils meeting the listed
classifications may be used with oil changes
performed at the recommended intervals.
However to allow piston rings to properly
seat, a new or rebuilt engine should be
operated for at least 50 hours using standard
petroleum based oil before switching to
synthetic oil.
A logo or symbol on oil containers identifies the API
service class and SAE viscosity grade. See Figure 1-3.
Figure 1-3. Oil Container Logo.
Refer to Section 6 Lubrication System for detailed oil
check, oil change, and oil filter procedures.
Unleaded gasoline is recommended, as it leaves less
combustion chamber deposits. Leaded gasoline may
be used in areas where unleaded is not available and
exhaust emissions are not regulated. Be aware
however, that the cylinder head will require more
frequent service.
Gasoline/Alcohol blends
Gasohol (up to 10% ethyl alcohol, 90% unleaded
gasoline by volume) is approved as a fuel for Kohler
engines. Other gasoline/alcohol blends are not
approved.
Gasoline/Ether blends
Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether (MTBE) and unleaded
gasoline blends (up to maximum of 15% MTBE by
volume) are approved as a fuel for Kohler engines.
Other gasoline/ether blends are not approved.
1.4
Periodic Maintenance
Section 1
Safety and General Information
WARNING: Accident al St arts!
Disabling engine. Accidental starting can cause severe injury or death. Before working on the engine or equipment,
disable the engine as follows: 1) Disconnect the spark plug lead(s). 2) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable from battery.
Maintenance Schedule
The following required maintenance procedures should be performed at the frequency stated in the table and
should also be included as part of any seasonal tune-up.
Frequency
• Fill fuel tank.
Daily or Before
Starting Engine
Every 25 Hours
Every 50 Hours
Every
100 Hours
Every
200 Hours
Annually or Every
500 Hours
1
Perform these maintenance procedures more frequently under extremely dusty, dirty conditions.
2
Only required for Denso starters. Not necessary on Delco starters. Have a Kohler Engine Service Dealer perform this service.
• Check oil level.
• Check air cleaner for dirty1, loose, or damaged parts.
• Check air intake and cooling areas, clean as necessary1.
• Service precleaner element1.
• Check oil level in gear reduction unit.
• Replace air cleaner element1.
• Change oil1.
• Remove cooling shrouds and clean cooling areas1.
• Change oil filter.
• Check spark plug condition and gap.
• Replace fuel filter.
• Have bendix starter drive serviced2.
• Have solenoid shift starter disassembled and cleaned2.
Maintenance Required
Refer to:
Section 5
Section 6
Section 4
Section 4
Section 4
Section 6
Section 4
Section 6
Section 4
Section 6
Section 8
Section 5
Section 8
Section 8
1
Storage
If the engine will be out of service for two months or
more, use the following storage procedure:
1. Clean the exterior surfaces of the engine.
2. Change the oil and oil filter while the engine is
still warm from operation. See Change Oil and
Oil Filter in Section 6.
3. The fuel system must be completely emptied, or
the gasoline must be treated with a stabilizer to
prevent deterioration. If you choose to use a
stabilizer, follow the manufacturers
recommendations, and add the correct amount
for the capacity of the fuel system. Fill the fuel
tank with clean, fresh gasoline. Run the engine
for 2-3 minutes to get stabilized fuel into the
carburetor.
To empty the system, run the engine until the
tank and system are empty.
4. Remove the spark plug. Add one tablespoon of
engine oil into the spark plug hole. Install the
plug, but do not connect the plug lead. Crank the
engine two or three revolutions.
5. Remove the spark plug. Cover the spark plug
hole with your thumb, and turn the engine over
until the piston is at the top of its stroke.
(Pressure against thumb is greatest.) Reinstall
the plug, but do not connect the plug lead.
6. Store the engine in a clean, dry place.
1.5
Section 1
Safety and General Information
Dimensions in millimeters.
Inch equivalents shown in ( ).
Figure 1-4. T ypical Engine Dimensions.
1.6
Section 1
Safety and General Information
General Specifications
Power (@ 3600 RPM, exceeds SAE J1940 HP standards)
N·m = in. lb. x 0.113
N·m = ft. lb. x 1.356
in. lb. = N·m x 8.85
ft. lb. = N·m x 0.737
Noncritical
Fasteners
Into Aluminum
Torque
1
1.13
Section 2
Tools & Aids
Section 2
Tools & Aids
Certain quality tools are designed to help you perform specific disassembly, repair, and reassembly procedures.
By using tools designed for the job, you can properly service engines easier, faster, and safer! In addition, you’ll
increase your service capabilities and customer satisfaction by decreasing engine downtime.
Here is the list of tools and their source.
Separate Tool Suppliers:
Kohler Tools
Contact your source
of supply.
SE Tools
415 Howard St.
Lapeer, MI 48446
Phone 810-664-2981
Toll Free 800-664-2981
Fax 810-664-8181
Design Technology Inc.
768 Burr Oak Drive
Westmont, IL 60559
Phone 630-920-1300
A flywheel holding tool can be made out of an old
junk flywheel ring gear as shown in Figure 2-1, and
used in place of a strap wrench.
1. Using an abrasive cut-off wheel, cut out a six
tooth segment of the ring gear as shown.
2. Grind off any burrs or sharp edges.
3. Invert the segment and place it between the
ignition bosses on the crankcase so that the tool
teeth engage the flywheel ring gear teeth. The
bosses will lock the tool and flywheel in
position for loosening, tightening or removing
with a puller.
2. Remove the studs of a Posi-Lock rod or grind off
the aligning steps of a Command rod, so the joint
surface is flat.
3. Find a 1 in. long capscrew with the correct
thread size to match the threads in the
connecting rod.
4. Use a flat washer with the correct I.D. to slip on
the capscrew and approximately 1” O.D. (Kohler
Part No. 12 468 05-S). Assemble the capscrew
and washer to the joint surface of the rod, as
shown in Figure 2-2.
Figure 2-1. Flywheel Holding Tool.
Rocker Arm/Crankshaft Tool
A spanner wrench to lift the rocker arms or turn the
crankshaft may be made out of an old junk connecting
rod.
1. Find a used connecting rod from a 10 HP or
larger engine. Remove and discard the rod cap.
Figure 2-2. Rocker Arm/Crankshaf t T ool.
2.4
Section 3
Troubleshooting
Section 3
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Guide
When troubles occur, be sure to check the simple
causes which, at first, may seem too obvious to be
considered. For example, a starting problem could be
caused by an empty fuel tank.
Some common causes of engine trouble are listed
below. Use these to locate the causing factors.
Engine Cranks But Will Not Start
1. Empty fuel tank.
2. Fuel shut-off valve closed.
3. Dirt or water in the fuel system.
4. Clogged fuel line.
5. Spark plug lead disconnected.
6. Key switch or kill switch in off position.
7. Faulty spark plug.
8. Faulty ignition module.
9. Choke not closing.
10. Faulty oil sending unit.
Engine Start s But Does Not Keep Running
1. Restricted fuel tank vent.
2. Dirt or water in the fuel system.
3. Faulty choke or throttle controls/cable.
4. Loose wires or connections that short the kill
terminal of ignition module to ground.
5. Faulty cylinder head gasket.
6. Faulty fuel pump.
7. Faulty carburetor.
8. Faulty fuel pump.
Engines Start s Hard
1. Hydrostatic transmission not in neutral/PTO
drive is engaged.
1. Hydrostatic transmission not in neutral/PTO
drive is engaged.
2. Battery is discharged.
3. Safety interlock switch is engaged.
4. Loose or faulty wires or connections.
5. Faulty key switch or ignition switch.
6. Faulty electric starter/starter solenoid.
7. Retractable starter not engaging in drive cup.
8. Seized internal engine components.
Engine Runs But Misses
1. Dirt or water in the fuel system.
2. Spark plug lead disconnected.
3. Loose wires or connections that intermittently
short the kill terminal of ignition module to
ground.
4. Engine overheated.
5. Faulty ignition module.
Engine Will Not Idle
1. Restricted fuel tank cap vent.
2. Dirt or water in the fuel system.
3. Faulty spark plug.
4. Idle fuel adjusting needle improperly set.
5. Idle speed adjusting screw improperly set.
6. Low compression.
7. Stale fuel and/or gum in carburetor.
Engine Overheats
1. Air intake or grass screen, cooling fins, or cooling
shrouds clogged.
2. Excessive engine load.
3. Low crankcase oil level.
4. High crankcase oil level.
5. Faulty carburetor.
6. Lean fuel condition.
7. Restricted exhaust.
3
3.1
Section 3
Troubleshooting
Engine Knocks
1. Excessive engine load.
2. Low crankcase oil level.
3. Old or improper fuel.
4. Internal wear or damage.
Engine Loses Power
1. Low crankcase oil level.
2. High crankcase oil level.
3. Dirty air cleaner element.
4. Dirt or water in the fuel system.
5. Excessive engine load.
6. Engine overheated.
7. Faulty spark plug.
8. Low compression.
9. Exhaust restriction.
Engine Uses Excessive Amount Of Oil
1. Incorrect oil viscosity/type.
2. Crankcase overfilled.
3. Clogged or improperly assembled breather.
4. Worn or broken piston rings.
5. Worn cylinder bore.
6. Worn valve stems or valve guides.
External Engine Inspection
Before cleaning or disassembling the engine, make a
thorough inspection of its external appearance and
condition. This inspection can give clues to what
might be found inside the engine (and the cause)
when it is disassembled.
•Check for buildup of dirt and debris on the
crankcase, cooling fins, grass screen and other
external surfaces. Dirt or debris on these areas are
causes of overheating.
•Check for obvious fuel and oil leaks, and
damaged components. Excessive oil leakage can
indicate a clogged or improperly assembled
breather, worn or damaged seals and gaskets, or
loose or improperly torqued fasteners.
•Check the air cleaner cover and base for damage
or indications of improper fit and seal.
•Check the air cleaner element. Look for holes,
tears, cracked or damaged sealing surfaces, or
other damage that could allow unfiltered air into
the engine. Also note if the element is dirty or
clogged. These could indicate that the engine has
been underserviced.
•Check the carburetor throat for dirt. Dirt in the
throat is further indication that the air cleaner is
not functioning properly.
•Check that the oil level is within the operating
range on the dipstick, or if it is low or overfilled.
•Check the condition of the oil. Drain the oil into a
container - the oil should flow freely. Check for
metal chips and other foreign particles.
Sludge is a natural by-product of combustion; a
small accumulation is normal. Excessive sludge
formation could indicate the oil has not been
changed at the recommended intervals, the
incorrect type or weight of oil was used, overrich
carburetion, and weak ignition, to name a few.
Cleaning the Engine
After inspecting the external condition of the engine,
clean the engine thoroughly before disassembling it.
Also clean individual components as the engine is
disassembled. Only clean parts can be accurately
inspected and gauged for wear or damage. There are
many commercially available cleaners that will
quickly remove grease, oil, and grime from engine
parts. When such a cleaner is used, follow the
manufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions
carefully.
Make sure all traces of the cleaner are removed before
the engine is reassembled and placed into operation.
Even small amounts of these cleaners can quickly
break down the lubricating properties of engine oil.
3.2
Section 3
Troubleshooting
Basic Engine Tests
Crankcase Vacuum Test
A partial vacuum should be present in the crankcase
when the engine is operating at normal temperatures.
Pressure in the crankcase (normally caused by a
clogged or improperly-assembled breather) can cause
oil to be forced out at oil seals, gaskets, or other
available spots.
Crankcase vacuum is best measured with a water
manometer or vacuum/pressure test gauge. See
Section 2. Complete instructions are provided with the
testers.
Test the crankcase vacuum with the manometer as
follows:
1. Insert the rubber stopper into the oil fill hole. Be
sure the pinch clamp is installed on the hose and
use the tapered adapters to connect the hose
between the stopper and one of the manometer
tubes. Leave the other tube open to the
atmosphere. Check that the water level in the
manometer is at the "0" line. Make sure the pinch
clamp is closed.
2. Start the engine and run at no-load, high idle
speed (3200 to 3750 RPM).
3. Open the clamp and note the water level in the
tube.
The level in the engine side should be a minimum
of 10.2 cm (4 in.) above the level in the open side.
If the level in the engine side is the same as the
open side (no vacuum), or the level in the engine
side is lower than the level in the open side
(pressure), check for the conditions in the table
below.
4. Close the shut-off clamp before stopping the
engine.
To perform the test with the vacuum/pressure
gauge, insert the stopper as in step 1. Insert the
barbed gauge fitting into the hole in the stopper.
Be sure the gauge needle is at "0". Run the engine,
as in step 2, and observe the gauge reading.
Needle movement to the left of "0" is a vacuum,
and movement to the right indicates a pressure.
3
Incorrect Vacuum in Crankcase
Possible Cause
1. Crankcase breather clogged or inoperative.
2. Seals and/or gaskets leaking. Loose or improperly
torqued fasteners.
3. Piston blowby or leaky valves. Confirm with
cylinder leakdown test.
4. Restricted exhaust.
Solution
1. Disassemble breather, clean parts thoroughly,
reassemble, and recheck pressure.
2. Replace all worn or damaged seals and gaskets.
Make sure all fasteners are tightened securely. Use
appropriate torque values and sequences when
necessary.
3. Recondition piston, rings, cylinder bore, valves,
and valve guides.
These engines are equipped with an automatic
compression release (ACR) mechanism. Because of the
ACR mechanism, it is difficult to obtain an accurate
compression reading. As an alternate, use the
leakdown test described below.
Cylinder Leakdown T est
A cylinder leakdown test can be a valuable alternative
to a compression test. By pressurizing the combustion
chamber from an external air source you can
determine if the valves or rings are leaking, and how
badly.
The tester is a relatively simple, inexpensive leakdown
tester for small engines. The tester includes a quick
disconnect for attaching the adapter hose and a
holding tool.
Leakdown T est Instructions
1. Run engine for 3-5 minutes to warm it up.
2. Remove spark plug and air filter from engine.
3. Rotate crankshaft until piston is at top dead
center of compression stroke. You will need to
hold the engine in this position while testing. The
holding tool supplied with the tester can be used
if the PTO end of the crankshaft is accessible.
Slide the holding tool onto the crankshaft. See
TT-364-A. Install a 3/8" breaker bar into the
square hole of the holding tool, so it is
perpendicular to both the holding tool and
crankshaft PTO.
If the flywheel end is more accessible, you can
use a breaker bar and socket on the flywheel nut/
screw to hold it in position. You may need an
assistant to hold the breaker bar during testing. If
the engine is mounted in a piece of equipment,
you may be able to hold it by clamping or
wedging a driven component. Just be certain that
the engine cannot rotate off of TDC in either
direction.
4. Install the adapter into the spark plug hole, but
do not attach it to the tester at this time.
5. Connect an adequate air source of at least 50 psi
to the tester.
6. Turn the regulator knob in the increase
(clockwise) direction until the gauge needle is in
the yellow “set” area at the low end of the scale.
7. Connect tester quick-disconnect to the adapter
hose while firmly holding the engine at TDC.
Note the gauge reading and listen for escaping air
at the carburetor intake, exhaust outlet, and
crankcase breather.
8. Check your test results against the table below:
Leakdown Test Results
Air escaping from crankcase breather .............................................. Defective rings or worn cylinder walls.
Air escaping from exhaust system ..................................................... Defective exhaust valve.
Air escaping from carburetor .............................................................. Defective intake valve.
Gauge reading in “low” (green) zone................................................ Piston rings and cylinder in good condition.
Gauge reading in “moderate” (yellow) zone.................................... Engine is still usable, but there is some wear
present. Customer should start planning for
overhaul or replacement.
Gauge reading in “high” (red) zone .................................................. Rings and/or cylinder have considerable wear.
Engine should be reconditioned or replaced.
3.4
Air Intake and Air Cleaner System
Section 4
Air Cleaner and Air Intake System
Section 4
Air Cleaner
General
These engines are equipped with a replaceable, highdensity paper air cleaner element. Most are also
equipped with an oiled-foam precleaner which
surrounds the paper element. See Figures 4-1 and 4-2.
Air Cleaner
Cover Knob
Air Cleaner
Cover
Figure 4-1. Air Cleaner Housing Components.
Air Cleaner Base
Element Cover
Wing Nut
Service
Check the air cleaner daily or before starting the
engine. Check for and correct any buildup of dirt and
debris, along with loose or damaged components.
NOTE: Operating the engine with loose or damaged
air cleaner components could allow
unfiltered air into the engine, causing
premature wear and failure.
Precleaner Service
If so equipped, wash and reoil the precleaner every 25
hours of operation (more often under extremely dusty
or dirty conditions).
To service the precleaner, perform the following steps:
1. Loosen the cover retaining knob and remove the
cover.
2. Remove the foam precleaner from the paper air
cleaner element.
3. Wash the precleaner in warm water with
detergent. Rinse the precleaner thoroughly until
all traces of detergent are eliminated. Squeeze out
excess water (do not wring). Allow the precleaner
to air dry.
4
Paper Element
Foam Precleaner
Figure 4-2. Air Cleaner Element s.
Element
Cover
4. Saturate the precleaner with new engine oil.
Squeeze out all excess oil.
5. Reinstall the precleaner over the paper air cleaner
element.
6. Reinstall the air cleaner cover. Secure the cover
with the retaining knob.
4.1
Section 4
Air Cleaner and Air Intake System
Paper Element Service
Every 100 hours of operation (more often under
extremely dusty or dirty conditions), replace the paper
element. Follow these steps:
1. Loosen the cover retaining knob and remove the
cover.
2. Remove the wing nut, element cover, and air
cleaner element.
3. Remove the precleaner (if so equipped) from the
paper element. Service the precleaner as
described in “Precleaner Service”.
4. Do not wash the paper element or usepressurized air, as this will damage the element.
Replace a dirty, bent, or damaged element with a
genuine Kohler element. Handle new elements
carefully; do not use if the sealing surfaces are
bent or damaged.
5. Check the rubber sleeve seal for any damage or
deterioration. Replace as necessary. A new seal
comes packed with each replacement element.
2. Remove the wing nut, element cover, and air
cleaner element.
3. If so equipped, remove the precleaner from the
paper element.
4. Disconnect the breather hose from the valve
cover.
5. Remove the air cleaner base mounting nuts, air
cleaner base, and gasket.
6. If necessary, remove the self-tapping screws and
elbow from air cleaner base.
Reassembly
The following procedure is for complete assembly of
all air cleaner components.
1. Install the elbow and self-tapping screws to air
cleaner base.
2. Install the gasket, air cleaner base, and base
mounting nuts. Torque the nuts to 9.9 N·m(88 in. lb.).
6. Reinstall the paper element, precleaner, element
cover, and wing nut.
7. Reinstall the air cleaner cover and secure with the
two latches or the retaining knob.
Inspect Air Cleaner Components
Whenever the air cleaner cover is removed, or the
paper element or precleaner are serviced, check the
following areas/components:
Air Cleaner Base - Make sure the base is secured and
not cracked or damaged. Since the air cleaner base and
carburetor are secured to the intake port with
common hardware, it is extremely important that the
nuts securing these components are tight at all times.
Breather Tube - Make sure the breather tube is
installed to both the air cleaner base and valve cover.
Disassembly
The following procedure is for complete disassembly
of all air cleaner components.
1. Loosen the air cleaner cover retaining knob and
remove the air cleaner cover.
3. Connect the breather hose to the valve cover (and
air cleaner base). Secure with hose clamps.
4. If so equipped, install the precleaner (washed and
oiled) over the paper element.
5. Install the air cleaner element, element cover, and
wing nut.
6. Install the air cleaner cover and air cleaner cover
retaining knob. Tighten the knob securely.
Air Intake/Cooling System
To ensure proper cooling, make sure the grass screen,
cooling fins, and other external surfaces of the engine
are kept clean at all times.
Every 100 hours of operation (more often under
extremely dusty or dirty conditions), remove the
blower housing and other cooling shrouds. Clean the
cooling fins and external surfaces as necessary. Make
sure the cooling shrouds are reinstalled.
NOTE: Operating the engine with a blocked grass
screen, dirty or plugged cooling fins, and/or
cooling shrouds removed, will cause engine
damage due to overheating.
4.2
Fuel System and Governor
Section 5
Fuel System and Governor
Section 5
Description
WARNING: Explosive Fuel!
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can explode
if ignited. Store gasoline only in approved containers, in
well ventilated, unoccupied buildings, away from sparks or
flames. Do not fill the fuel tank while the engine is hot or
running, since spilled fuel could ignite if it comes in contact
with hot parts or sparks from ignition. Do not start the
engine near spilled fuel. Never use gasoline as a cleaning
agent.
Fuel System Components
The typical fuel system and related components
include the following:
• Fuel Tank• Fuel Lines
• In-Line Fuel Filter• Fuel Pump
• Carburetor
Operation
The fuel from the tank is moved through the in-line
filter and fuel lines by the fuel pump. On engines not
equipped with a fuel pump, the fuel tank outlet is
located above the carburetor inlet; gravity moves the
fuel.
Fuel then enters the carburetor float bowl and is
moved into the carburetor body. There, the fuel is
mixed with air. This fuel-air mixture is then burned
in the engine combustion chamber.
Fuel Filter
Most engines are equipped with an in-line fuel filter.
Periodically inspect the filter and replace with a
genuine Kohler filter every 200 operating hours.
Fuel Line
In compliance with CARB Tier III Emission
Regulations, these engines with a Family
identification number beginning with 6 or greater
(see Figure 5-1), must use Low Permeation SAE 30 R7
rated fuel line; certified to meet CARB requirements.
Standard fuel line may not be used. Order
replacement hose by part number through a Kohler
Engine Service Dealer.
IMPORTANT ENGINE INFORMATION
THIS ENGINE MEETS U.S. EPA AND CA 2005 AND
LATER AND EC ST AGE II (SN:4) EMISSION REGS
FOR SI SMALL OFF–ROAD ENGINES
FAMILY6 KHXS.XXXX PH
TYPE APP
DISPL. (CC)
MODEL NO.
SPEC. NO.
SERIAL NO.
BUILD DA TE
OEM PROD. NO.
EMISSION COMPLIANCE PERIOD:
EPA:CARB:
CERTIFIED ON:
REFER TO OWNER'S MANUAL FOR HP RATING,
SAFETY , MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS
1-800-544-2444 www.kohlerengines.com
KOHLER CO. KOHLER, WISCONSIN USA
N11236
5
Figure 5-1. "Family" Number Location.
5.1
Section 5
Fuel System and Governor
Fuel System T ests
When the engine starts hard, or turns over but will not start, it is possible that the problem is in the fuel
system. To find out if the fuel system is causing the problem, perform the following tests.
Troubleshooting - Fuel System Related Causes
T e stConclusion
1. Check for the following:
a. Make sure the fuel tank contains clean, fresh,
proper fuel.
b. Make sure the vent in fuel tank cap is open.
c. Make sure the fuel valve is open.
2. Check for fuel in the combustion chamber.
a. Disconnect and ground spark plug lead.
b. Close the choke on the carburetor.
c. Crank the engine several times.
d. Remove the spark plug and check for fuel at
the tip.
3. Check for fuel flow from the tank to the fuel pump.
a. Remove the fuel line from the inlet fitting of
fuel pump.
b. Hold the line below the bottom of the tank.
Open the shut-off valve (if so equipped) and
observe flow.
4. Check the operation of fuel pump.
a. Remove the fuel line from the inlet fitting of
carburetor.
b. Crank the engine several times and observe
flow.
Fuel Pump
2. If there is fuel at the tip of the spark plug, fuel is
reaching the combustion chamber.
If there is no fuel at the tip of the spark plug,
check for fuel flow from the fuel tank. (Test 3)
3. If fuel does flow from the line, check for faulty
fuel pump. (Test 4)
If fuel does not flow from the line, check for
clogged fuel tank vent, fuel pick-up screen, in-line
filter, shut-off valve, and fuel lines.
4. If fuel does flow from the line, check for faulty
carburetor. (Refer to the “Carburetor” portions of
this section.)
If fuel does not flow from the line, check for
clogged fuel line. If the fuel line is unobstructed,
the fuel pump is faulty and must be replaced.
Outlet Check Valve
Camshaft
General
Most engines are equipped with an optional
mechanically operated fuel pump. On applications
using a gravity feed fuel system, the fuel pump
mounting pad is covered with a metal plate.
The fuel pump body is constructed of nylon. The
nylon body insulates the fuel from the engine
crankcase. This prevents the fuel from vaporizing
inside the pump.
Operation
The mechanical pump is operated by a lever which
rides on the engine camshaft. The lever transmits a
pumping action to the diaphragm inside the pump
body. On the downward stroke of the diaphragm, fuel
is drawn in through the inlet check valve. On the
upward stroke of the diaphragm, fuel is forced out
through the outlet check valve. See Figure 5-2.
5.2
Diaphragm
Figure 5-2. Cutaway - Typical Fuel Pump.
Inlet Check Valve
Fuel Pump
Lever
Replacing the Fuel Pump
Nonmetallic fuel pumps are not serviceable and must
be replaced when faulty. Replacement pumps are
available in kits that include the pump, fittings, and
mounting gasket.
1. Disconnect the fuel lines from the inlet and outlet
fittings.
2. Remove the hex flange screws, fuel pump, and
gasket.
3. If necessary, remove the fittings from the pump
body.
Section 5
Fuel System and Governor
Figure 5-3.
4. Install Fittings
Threaded Fittings
a. Apply a small amount of Permatex® Aviation
Perm-a-Gasket (or equivalent) gasolineresistant thread sealant to the threads of
fittings. Turn the fittings into the pump 5 fullturns; continue turning the fittings in the
same direction until the desired position is
reached.
Lock-in Fittings
The inlet and outlet hose fittings must be
installed into the fuel pump prior to mounting.
The pump housing incorporates a special locking
feature to retain the fittings. The release tabs
must be depressed when the fittings are installed
or removed, to avoid damage to the fitting ORings and a potential fuel leak. Do not attempt to
install or force the fittings into place without
first depressing the tabs. There is a snap ring
included with the new fuel pump kit that will
serve as a tool for this purpose.
a. Note the direction arrows molded into the
pump housing and position the snap ring so
the ends depress the two square release tabs
at the inlet end. See Figure 5-3.
b. Lubricate the O-Ring on each fitting with oil.
c. Insert the 90° fitting until the toothed flange is
just outside of the pump body. Rotate the
fitting to the desired orientation and then
apply pressure to seat/snap it into the
housing. The flange face will be flush with the
end of the housing.
d. Transfer the snap ring to the opposite end and
repeat the sequence to install the straight
fitting. Remove the snap ring.
5. Clean off any remaining gasket material from the
fuel pump mounting surface. Refer to the pump
installation instructions to determine if the extra
spacer and gasket are required to mount the new
pump. Install new gasket, fuel pump, and hex
flange screws.
NOTE: Make sure the fuel pump lever is
positioned to the RIGHT of the camshaft
(when looking at fuel pump mounting
pad). Damage to the fuel pump, and
subsequent severe engine damage could
result if the lever is positioned to the left
of the camshaft.
Torque the hex flange screws as follows:
5
Into new holes–9.0 N·m (80 in. lb.).
Into used holes–4.2-5.1 N·m (37-45 in. lb.).
6. Connect the fuel lines to the inlet and outlet
fittings.
5.3
Section 5
Fuel System and Governor
Carburetors
These engines, based upon when produced, are
equipped with either an adjustable main jet
carburetor, or an emission compliant fixed jet
carburetor manufactured be Walbro or Nikki. See
Figure 5-4.
Walbro carburetors have a low idle speed screw and a
low idle fuel adjusting needle. Nikki carburetors only
have a low idle speed screw. Certified carburetors will
have fixed idle fuel or a limiter cap on the idle fuel
adjusting needle.
Walbro
Low Idle Speed
Adjustment Screw
Low Idle Fuel
Adjustment Needle
Nikki
Low Idle Speed
Adjustment Screw
Troubleshooting
If engine troubles are experienced that appear to be
fuel system related, check the following areas before
adjusting or disassembling the carburetor.
•Make sure the fuel tank is filled with clean, fresh
gasoline.
•Make sure the fuel tank cap vent is not blocked
and that it is operating properly.
•Make sure fuel is reaching the carburetor. This
includes checking the fuel shut-off valve, fuel
tank filter screen, in-line fuel filter, fuel lines, and
fuel pump for restrictions or faulty components
as necessary.
•Make sure the air cleaner base and carburetor is
securely fastened to the engine using gaskets in
good condition.
•Make sure the air cleaner element is clean and all
air cleaner components are fastened securely.
•Make sure the ignition system, governor system,
exhaust system, and throttle and choke controls
are operating properly.
If the engine is still hard-to-start, runs roughly, or
stalls at low idle speed, it may be necessary to adjust
or service the carburetor.
Figure 5-4. Carburetor Adjustment.
WARNING: Explosive Fuel!
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can explode
if ignited. Store gasoline only in approved containers, in
well ventilated, unoccupied buildings, away from sparks or
flames. Do not fill the fuel tank while the engine is hot or
running, since spilled fuel could ignite if it comes in contact
with hot parts or sparks from ignition. Do not start the
engine near spilled fuel. Never use gasoline as a cleaning
agent.
5.4
Conditi onPossible Cause/Probable Remedy
1. Engine starts hard, or
runs roughly or stalls at
idle speed.
Section 5
Fuel System and Governor
1. Low idle fuel mixture or speed are improperly adjusted. Adjust the low idle
speed screw, then adjust the low idle fuel needle (adjustable carburetors), or
clean the carburetor as required (fixed jet carburetors).
2. Engine runs rich
(indicated by black,
sooty exhaust smoke,
misfiring, loss of speed
and power, governor
hunting, or excessive
throttle opening).
3. Engine runs lean
(indicated by misfiring,
loss of speed and power,
governor hunting, or
excessive throttle
opening).
2a. Choke partially closed during operation. Check the choke lever/linkage/self-
relieving mechanism to ensure choke is operating properly.
b. Low idle fuel mixture is incorrect. Adjust low idle speed screw, then adjust
low idle fuel needle (adjustable carburetors), or clean the carburetor
passages as required (fixed jet carburetors).
c. Float level is set too high. With fuel bowl removed and carburetor inverted,
the exposed surface of float must be parallel with the bowl gasket surface of
the carburetor body.
d. Dirt under the fuel inlet needle. Remove needle; clean needle and seat and
blow with compressed air.
e. Air filter dirty or restricted.
f. Bowl vent or air bleeds plugged. Remove fuel bowl, low idle fuel adjusting
needle, (not on all models), and welch plugs. Clean vent, ports, passages and
air bleeds. Blow out all passages with clean, compressed air.
g. Leaky, cracked, or damaged float. Submerge float to check for leaks.
3a. Low idle fuel mixture incorrect. Adjust the low idle speed screw, then adjust
low idle fuel needle (adjustable carburetors), or clean the carburetor
passages as required (fixed jet carburetors).
b. Float level is set too low. With fuel bowl removed and carburetor inverted,
the exposed surface of float must be parallel with the bowl gasket surface of
the carburetor body.
5
4. Fuel leaks from
carburetor.
c. Idle holes plugged; dirt in fuel delivery channels. Remove fuel bowl, low idle
fuel adjusting needle (not on all models) and welch plugs. Clean main fuel jet
and all passages; blow out cleaned compressed air.
4a. Float level set too high. See Remedy 2c.
b. Dirt under fuel inlet needle. See Remedy 2d.
c. Bowl vent plugged. Remove fuel bowl and clean bowl vent. Blow out with
compressed air.
d. Float is cracked or damaged. Replace float.
e. Bowl gasket damaged. Replace gasket.
f. Bowl screw or shut-off solenoid loose or gasket damaged. Tighten/torque
screw to specifications.
5.5
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