OWNER'S MANUAL
SWA/RS
SEWING MACHINE
MODELS 385. 1158180
or
385. 1168180
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You have just invested _n a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this book{et which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleamng, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retaif Store.
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record _n space prowded below the mode_ number and serial
number of thls appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 3 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385. Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.
TABLE OFCONTENTS
SECTION
SECTION
1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available ............ 2
Locate and Tdentify the Parts ................. 2_3
|dentify the Accessories .................... 3
2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine ...................... 4_6
• Plug in the Machine and Sw_tch on the Power ..... 4
• Foot Controf Use ...................... 4
• Setting Spool Pin ........................ 5
• Adjust the Presser Foot Lever ................. 5
m Thread Cutter ........................... 5
• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table _ , , 6
• Accessory Storage Box .................. 6
• Change the Presser Foot .................... 6
Choose Your Needle and Thread ............. 6_7
• To Change Your Needle .................. 6
• Cheek Your Needle .... ,, , ................. 7
• Fabric, Needle and Thread Chart ................ 7
Prepare the Bobbin ................... 8_9
s To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ..... 8
a Wind the Bobbin .................... 8_9
o |nsert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case .......... 9
Prepare Your Top Thread .................. I 0_11
• Thread Your Needle .................. 10
• Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ............... 11
Adjust the Top Thread Tension ............. t2_13
Stitch Selector .......................... t3
Reverse Stitch Control ....................... 14
Starting To Sew ..................... t4
Darning ............................. 17
Zigzag Stitches ..................... 18_20
• Basic Zigzag ....................... 18
• Satin Stitch ....................... 18
• Monogramming .................... 19
• Bar Tacking ........................ 19
Overcasting Stitch ....................... 20
• Three*Step Zigzag .................... 20
Blind Hemming .......................... 21
Lace Work .............................. 22
Sew in a Zipper ......................... 23_24
Shell Stitching (Mode_ 11681 only) .............. 25
Box Stitching (Model 11681 only) ............. 25
SECTION 4 PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When .................. 26_27
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb ................. 28
Cleaning the Machine .................. 28_29
t Clean the Feed Dogs ..................... 28
Clean the Shuttle Race .............. 29
Oiling the Machine ....................... 30
• Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the
Arm Cover Plate ...................... 30
• Oil the Underside ....................... 30
PARTS LIST ................................ 3t
INDEX .................................. 32
SECTION
3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches ................... 15_16
•Stratght Stitch ................... 15
• Use the Seam Guides ................... 15
• Turn a Square Corner ...................... 15
• Use the Darning Plate ................ 16
• Topstltching ..................... 16
• Left Needle Position .................... 16
SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet isAvailable
A full line of sewing cabinets are available at your
nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Another optuon _ • buy a Carrying Case . • , then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-
where.
Locate and Identify the Parts
Take-up Lever
Bobbin Winding Tension Disc
Top Thread Tension Control
Face Cover Plate
Thread Cutter
Needle Plate
Upper Thread Gutde
Thread Spool Pin
Bobbin W_nding Spindle
\
Reverse Stitch Control
Stitch Selector
on
Extensi Table
(Accessory storage box)
Shuttle Cover
SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
ArmCoverPlate
Hand Wheel
Auto Clutch Knob
Light and
Power SwiIch
Plug Connector
Carrying Handle
Nomenclature Ptate
Identify the Accessories
Presser Foot Lever
_Large screw driver
Bobbin
f
Free Arm
Small screw driver
Needle set
Zippertoot
;Presser Foot
Foot Control
Needle C_amp Screw
Darning p_
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine
Plugin the MachineandSwitchon thePower
Power suppiy plug
Plug
connecto[
Machine
p _ug
NOTE:
Before inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power switch is
OFF_
1,
Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120
Volt AC outlet,
2.
Insert the machine plug into the three-prong
plug connector, as shown. It will only fit one
way,
3,
Insert the power supply p_ug into the outlet.
J
4. Push the light and power switch to turn
on the power and sewing light.
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine wifl not operate unless the
light]power switch is turned on. )f you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power swttch to prevent injury to
children,
Power sw_tch %
• Foot Control Use
Foot control
The foot control regulates the speed at
which you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your foot_
To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
sure slightly,
NOTE:
The foot control _s sensitive and
will increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Setting Spoot Pin = Adjust the Presser Foot Lever = Thread Cutter
Normal up
posJlJon
High pos_t_or
posllton
P
You don't need a pmr of smssors to cut the
thread after you finish sewing. Just use the
handy thread cutter.
Puif the threads to _engthen several inches
before starting the next seam.
The spool pin is used for holding the spool
of thread m order to feed thread to the
machine.
To use, purl up the spool pro. Push down
for storage.
position
........... J
The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your
presser foot.
You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal
up position for easy removal of the presser foot or
to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser
foot.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine (Continued)
= Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable t, Accessory Storage Box
Extension Table
To Remove the Extension Table The lid of the accessory storage
(for free-arm sewing) box lifts open toward you.
t. Grip the tabte with your index finger Sewtng accessories are convem-
and thumb, as shown, ently located in the box.
2. Pull gently to the left. The extension
table will snap out.
To Attach the Extension Table
(for flat-bed sewing)
t, Insert the tab and the pin into their
catches.
2, With your thumb and index finger,
gently snap in.
= Change the Presser Foot
!
Use the correct presser foot for
the stitch you wish to sew.
To change the various presser
feet, raise the presser bar to its
highest position by lifting the
presser foot lever.
Loosen the presser foot thumb
screw, choose the proper foot,
insert from the bottom.
Tighten the screw using the
large screw driver to make
certain the foot is secure,
Choose Your Needle and Thread
• To Change Your Needle
Flat
side
away
from
you
NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest
position by turning the hand wheel
toward you,
1. Loosen the needle clamp screw bv
turning it toward you.
2. Remove the needle by pulling it down-
ward.
3. Insert the new needle into the needle
clamp with the flat side away from you.
4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly
with the large screwdriver from your
accessory box.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Fabric, Needle and Thread Chart
Yourchoiceofneedleandthreaddependsonthefabricyouare
sewing.
Inyourneedleenvelope, you will find the following color-coded
needtes:
Blue [11) ...... for stretch fabrics.
Orange (1 1) ...... for lightweight fabrics.
Red (14) ..... for medium or medium-heavy
weight fabrics.
Purple (16) ....... for medium-heavy weight fabrics
and decorative topstitching on these
fabrics, (This needle has a larger
thread hofe for thicker topstltching
thread,)
Green (18) ...... for heavy weight fabrics and
decorative top-stitching on these
fabrics.
Replacement Kenmore needles are available at your nearest Sears
stores.
FABRIC SiZE AND THREAD SIZE
L_ghtwmght:
Batiste, Dimltv, Chiffon,
Silks. Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta, Voile,
Organdy
Medium We}ght:
Cotton, Cotton Blends,
Percafe, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique,
Seersucker, Satin, Knits,
Vinyl Su_tmgs, Linen_
Wool Crape, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight:
Corduroy, Oen_rn, Wool,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,
Gabard{ne, Velvets_
Leather
Heavy Weight:
Coatings, Upholstery
Cotton Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas
Decorative top-stitching
on all types Of fabric
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester Double Kmts,
Nylon Tricot, Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex_
Cire Tricot
NEEDLE
COLOR
........................ I
Polyester Core/Cotton
11-ORANGE
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Si}k A
50 Mercerized Cotton
14-RED
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
SHk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
14-R E D Mercerized Heavy.Du ty
or Polyester Core/Cotton
1B-PURPLE Wrap
1B-GREEN
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
11-BLUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
Silk A
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester Core!Cotton
Wrap
Si_k A
Buttonhole Twist
IUse as tOp thread only)
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
= Check Your Needle
1. Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs m
kmts, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and
be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness,
7
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Prepare the Bobbin
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
Remove the extension table from
the machine by pulling it to the
left, Open the shuttle cover by
pulling down the embossed part on
the left side of the cover,
Rinse needle to its highest posit_on
by rotating hand wheel toward you,
To remove bobbin case from shut-
tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.
Pull bobbin case straight out of
shuttle.
= Wind the Bobbin
Release clutch by turning the
clutch knob inside the hand wheel
toward you to stop the needle from
moving while you winding the
bobbin,
= Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
f
Draw thread from spool through
bobbin wmd;ng tension disc as shown.
• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
(-
Pull end of thread through hole in
bobbin as shown.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
7
Place bobbin onto bobbin winding
spindle with end of thread coming
from the top of the bobbin. Push
bobbin winding spindle to the right
until it clicks. Holding onto end of
thread, start machine. When bobbin is
slightly filled, snip off end of thread.
k
Wind thread until winder stops.
Push bobbin winding spindle to the
lef_ and clip thread. Remove bobbin.
Turn clutch knob away from you
while holding hand wheel for normal
sewing operation.
::ii! ¸¸/ ,
Place bobbin in bobbin case
making sure thread feeds clock-
w_se and ts coming from
bobbin as shown.
Pull thread through slot of case
as shown.
Pull thread
under teoslon
spring and through the opening
as shown above. Pull 3 to 4
inches of thread from bobbin.
Holding latch open, position
case into shuttle and release
latch.
Case should lock into place
when latch is released.