Joy-it LCD Display 16x2 with Buttons User guide

Beginner’s Guide

to the

PI LCD

Part 1: Assembly

W8BH

1) INTRODUCTION

LCD Modules are a very common and inexpensive interface for microcontroller boards like
the Arduino. So why would you want to connect one to the Raspberry Pi, which has
advanced, high-resolution video display capability?

- Your HDMI display is hooked up to your other Raspberry Pi

- Your HDMI display is actually your TV, and someone is using it.

- You don’t have a video display device for your Pi.

- You want to learn about LCD modules.

- Because you can.

In this tutorial we will look at the handy LCD module sold at mypishop.com. It mounts on
top of your pi, and gives us four pushbutton switches in addition to a choice of LCD modules
to use.

2) ASSEMBLY

Building this small board is very straightforward. There are very few parts: four switches,
four resistors, a 26-pin female header, a row of male header pins, and the LCD. As always,

put them in some container on your workspace so they don’t walk away. I use a shoebox

lid.
There are no directions for the kit, so print out the online assembly instructions. All of the

parts, EXCEPT the 26-pin header, go on the printed side of the board.
Did you notice an adhesive-backed plastic disc in your kit? This disc provides physical and

electrical isolation between your add-on board and the Pi. It also provides for some

mechanical stability. Mount your board on the Pi and press down on it. The first thing my

16-pin female header

Support Posts

board hits is a tall electrolytic capacitor on the Pi. Put your adhesive disc at this spot. You
can affix the disc to the bottom of the board or to the top of the capacitor. Either way, it
prevents direct contact and minimizes board sagging.

Here is a photo of my board. I decided
NOT to solder the LCD to the board.
Instead I soldered a 16-pin female
header. The header will let you plug in
different LCDs. I have put 16x2 and
20x4 displays on my board, and this
small modification lets me try whatever
LCD I like. Most backlit LCD modules
use the same industry-standard 16-pin
configuration, and will be compatible
with your board.

If you use a 20x4 display, you may

notice how heavy the display is. It also
can cause the board to sag, and put strain on the 26-pin connector. If you use a female
header like me, the sagging and strain will be even more obvious. What can you do?

3) BE SUPPORTIVE

If a sagging display bothers you, just prop it up!
This is surprisingly easy to do. Visit your local
hobby store/Home Depot/Lowes and get some
basswood/balsa strips. You will only need a few
inches, so one strip will do. Mine are about ¼”
square, and make excellent support posts. Hold
the strip beside your mounted display, and pencil-

mark it for the length you need. It doesn’t hurt to
add 1/16” or so, since the post can be shortened

very quickly. Cut two lengths. Drill a small 1/16”
pilot hole on the top of each post. Attach the post
to your LCD using a #4 wood screw. If a post is too long, sand it down. If too short, add
one or two #4 washers between the post and display (or cut another post - it won’t take
long).

You don’t have to use wood. You can do the same thing with nylon standoffs, metal or
acrylic rod. But wood is easy to use, cheap, and doesn’t need to be tapped. Be creative.

If you install a female header like I did, then drill two 1/8” holes along the bottom edge of the
board and attach two small posts. These posts will give you plenty of support to whatever
LCD module you attach.