Humminbird MATRIX INSTALLATION GUIDE

HUMMINBIRD INSTALLATION GUIDE

531196-2_A

There are three basic installation tasks that you must perform for the Humminbird Fishing System:

• Installing the Humminbird control head

• Installing the transducer

• Testing the complete installation and locking the transducer position.

The transducer can either be installed inside the hull, on the transom of the boat, or onto a trolling motor,
depending on your transducer type. There are also two different types of transducer mounting brackets, the Single
Piece and the Two Piece Kick-up. In addition, if you have purchased a Plus model, you may want to install the
included Temperature/Speed accessory, using the separate installation instructions included with the accessory.

NOTE: If the included transducer will not work for your application, you may exchange it, NEW and
UNASSEMBLED, with mounting hardware included, for a transducer appropriate for your application - often at
very little or no charge depending on the transducer. Call the Humminbird Customer Resource Center
(334-687-0503) for details and pricing, or visit www.humminbird.com, Product Support/Transducer Exchange for
more information.

NOTE: Due to the wide variety of hulls, only general instructions are presented in this installation guide. Each boat
hull represents a unique set of requirements that should be evaluated prior to installation. In addition to the parts
supplied, you will need a hand drill with various bits, a socket (

⁷⁄₁₆

") wrench, a Phillips head screwdriver, and

marine-grade silicone sealant.

NOTE: Please read all instructions carefully and completely before beginning the installation process.

NOTE: When drilling holes in fiberglass hulls, it is best to start with a smaller bit and use progressively larger drill

bits to reduce the chance of chipping or flaking the outer coating.

CONTROL HEAD INSTALLATION

Determine Where to Mount

Begin the installation by determining where to mount the control head. Consider the following to
determine the best location:

• To check the location planned for the control head, test run the cables for power, transducer and
Temp/Speed accessory (if applicable). See the installation section for your transducer type in order
to plan the location of the transducer.

• There are two ways to route the cables to the unit: through a hole in the mounting surface
underneath the mounting bracket, or from a hole outside the mounting bracket. Routing the cables
under the mounting bracket provides maximum weather protection; this may not be feasible,
however, if the area under the control head is inaccessible. In this case, route the cables through a
hole at another location and cover with the supplied hole cover.

• The mounting surface should be stable enough to protect the control head from excessive wave
shock and vibration, and should provide visibility while in operation.

• The mounting area should allow sufficient room for the unit to pivot and swivel freely, and for easy
removal and installation (Figures 1 and 2).

Connect the Power Cable to the Boat

A 6' (2 m) long power cable is included to supply power to the control head. You may shorten or lengthen
the cable using 18 gauge multi-stranded copper wire.

CAUTION: Some boats have 24 or 36 Volt electric systems, but the control head MUST be connected to a
12 VDC power supply.

The control head power cable can be connected to the electrical system of the boat at two places: a fuse
panel usually located near the console, or directly to the battery.

NOTE: Make sure that the power cable is not connected to the control head at the beginning of this
procedure.

1a. If a fuse terminal is available, use crimp-on type electrical connectors (not included) that match the

terminal on the fuse panel. Attach the black wire to ground (-), and the red wire to positive (+)
12 VDC power (Figure 3).

1b. If you need to wire the control head directly to a battery, obtain and install an inline fuse holder

and a 1 to 3 amp fuse (not included) for the protection of the unit (Figure 4). Humminbird is not
responsible for over-voltage or over-current failures.

NOTE: In order to minimize the potential for interference with other marine electronics, a separate
power source (such as a second battery) may be necessary.

2.

1.

Figure 2

Figure 1

Figure 3

Figure 4

Inline Fuse

Holder

POSITIVE

GROUND

Drill the Mounting Bracket Mounting Holes

1. Set the control head mounting bracket in place on the mounting surface. Mark the four mounting

screw locations with a pencil or punch.

2. Set the mounting bracket aside, and drill the four mounting screw holes using a

⁹⁄₆₄

" (3.5 mm) bit.

Route the Cables Through the Mounting Bracket

1a. If the cables must pass through a hole directly beneath the mounting bracket, mark and drill an

additional 1" (25 mm) hole centered between the four mounting holes (Figure 5). Route the cables
through the grommet, then press the grommet in place around the cables and into the 1"(25 mm) hole.
Pass the cables out of the top of the mounting bracket (Figure 6).

1b. If the cables cannot be routed directly beneath the mounting bracket, mark and drill a 1" (25 mm)

hole that will allow you to run the cables close to the bracket. Pass the cables through the 1" (25
mm) hole, through the mounting base, and out of the top of the mounting bracket (Figure 7).
Using needle-nose pliers, break out the tabs on the rear of the mounting base (Figure 8). Place the
Hole Cover over the mounting surface hole, then use it to mark the position of the two mounting
screws. Remove the Hole Cover, drill the two mounting holes using a

⁹⁄₆₄

" (3.5 mm) bit, fill them
with marine-grade silicone, then replace the Hole Cover and insert the #8 Phillips countersink
wood screws. Hand-tighten only.

2. Place the mounting bracket on the mounting surface aligned with the drilled holes and fill the
mounting holes with marine grade silicone. Insert the four #8 Phillips countersink wood screws
into the mounting holes. Hand-tighten only.

Assembling the Connector Holder

1. Insert both the power and the transducer cable plugs into the connector holder. The cable plugs
are labeled, and there are corresponding labels on the connector holder (Figure 9). The slots for the
plugs are keyed to prevent reverse installation, and insertion should be easy - do not force plugs.

2. Carefully pull the excess cable from beneath the mounting surface so that the connector holder
aligns with the mounting holes on the front of the mounting bracket (Figure 10).

3. Snap the support plate onto the rear of the connector holder (Figure 11).

4. Insert the connector holder into place and fasten it to the mounting bracket using the two
#6-32 x

³⁄₄

" (19 mm) screws (Figure 12). Hand-tighten only.

5. Slide the control head onto the mounting bracket until it is fully seated. To remove the unit, grasp
the unit with both hands, then firmly press the latch on the rear of the unit and lift (Figure 13).

NOTE: This latch is heavy-duty to withstand marine use, and significant force must be applied.

You are now ready to install the transducer. Find the section that refers to your transducer type.

5.

4.

3.

1" (25 mm) Hole Location

Mounting Hole Locations

Figure 5

Cables

Mounting

Bracket

Grommet

Figure 6

Hole Cover

Figure 7

Break-out

tabs

Figure 8

Transducer Accessory

Figure 9

Communications Power

Connector Holder

Connector

Holder

Cable Connector

Figure 10

TRANSOM TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION

Determine Transducer Mounting Location

NOTE: If transom mounting is not possible because of a stepped hull or cavitation noise, and you have
a single layer fiberglass hull, In-hull installation is an option. See Inside the Hull Transducer Installation
for more information.

First, determine the best location on the transom to install the transducer. Consider the following to find
the best location:

• It is very important to locate the transducer in an area which is relatively free of turbulent water. As

a boat moves through the water, turbulence is generated by the weight of the boat, and the thrust
of the propeller(s) - either clockwise or counter-clockwise. This turbulent water is normally confined
to areas immediately aft of ribs, strakes or rows of rivets on the bottom of the boat, and in the
immediate area of the propeller(s) (Figure 14). Clockwise propellers create more turbulence on the
port side. On outboard or inboard/outboard boats, it is best to locate the transducer at least 15"
(380 mm) to the side of the propeller(s).

• The best way to locate turbulence-free water is to view the transom while the boat is moving. This

method is recommended if maximum high-speed operation is a high priority. If this is not possible,
select a location on the transom where the hull forward of this location is smooth, flat and free of
protrusions or ribs.

• The hydrodynamic shape of your transducer allows it to point straight down without deadrise

adjustment (Figure 15).

• On boats with stepped hulls, it may be possible to mount the transducer on the step. Do not mount

the transducer on the transom behind a step to avoid popping the transducer out of the water at
higher speeds; the transducer must remain in the water for the control head to maintain the
sonar signal (Figure 16).

• If the transom is behind the propeller(s), it may be impossible to find an area clear from turbulence,

and a different mounting technique or transducer type should be considered (see Inside the Hull
Transducer Installation).

Mounting the Bracket

1. Remove the transducer mounting template from this sheet.

NOTE: Please make sure that you use the correct drill holes for the hull composition of your boat.

2. Hold the template on the transom of the boat in the location where the transducer will be
installed (Figure 15). Align the template vertically, matching the lower edge of the transom with
the bottom corner of the template. If your propeller moves clockwise as the boat moves forward,
mount the transducer on the starboard side, and use the bottom left corner of the template. If your
propeller moves counter-clockwise as the boat moves forward, mount the transducer on the port
side, and use the bottom right corner of the template.

3. Using a pencil or punch, mark the two mounting holes (shown on the template for your type of
hull) on the transom. Do not mark or drill any other holes at this time.

4. Using a

⁹⁄₆₄

" (3.5 mm) bit, drill the two holes to a depth of approximately 1" (25 mm).

2.

1.

Support Plate

Figure 11

Figure 12

Figure 13

Firmly Press
Latch to
Remove
Unit

Figure 14

Figure 15

Step

Figure 16

Figure 17

Pivot Bolt

Nyloc
Nut

Pivot
Knuckle

Toothed Lock

Washer

Transducer Arms

PLACE EITHER CORNER
ON DEADRISE ANGLE

TOP

Use 5/32" drill bit

Drill Drill

DO NOT LET DEADRISE
INTERSECT THIS LINE

PLACE EITHER CORNER
ON DEADRISE ANGLE

TOP

Use 5/32" drill bit

DrillDrill

Assemble the Transducer

NOTE: The transducer assembly referred to in this step consists of the transducer connected to either the
Single Piece or the Two Piece Kick-up mounting bracket.

1. Attach the Single Piece mounting bracket (Figure 17) or the Two Piece Kick-up pivot (Figure 18) to the
transducer body, using the

¹⁄₄

"- 20 x 1

¹⁄₄

" Phillips head pivot bolt, the nyloc nut, and the two toothed

lock washers.

NOTE: The toothed lock washers must be positioned between the transducer arms and the pivot knuckle
regardless of mounting bracket type (Figure 19).

2. Using a Phillips screwdriver and a

⁷⁄₁₆

" wrench, loosely tighten the pivot bolt (Figures 17, 18). Do not

completely tighten the assembly at this time, so the pivot angle can be adjusted later.

3. Only if you have a Kick-up transducer mounting assembly, insert the pivot/transducer assembly
into the mounting bracket (see Figure 20).

4. Do not snap the assembly closed.

Mount the Transducer Assembly to the Transom

1. Apply marine-grade silicone sealant to the mounting holes drilled into the transom.

2. Align the transducer assembly with the drilled holes in the transom (Figure 21).

3. Using the appropriate tool for your mounting hardware, attach the transducer assembly to the
boat transom as shown , using #8 x

⁵⁄₈

" (16 mm) wood screws. Do not fully tighten the mounting
screws in order to vertically adjust the transducer. If you have a Two Piece Kick-up transducer
mounting assembly, snap the pivot down into place.

Adjust the Running Position of the Transducer

The transducer mounting bracket allows height and tilt adjustment, while the pivot bolt allows angular
adjustment. These adjustments will help reduce cavitation (Figures 23 and 24). Initially, adjust the
transducer as described in the following paragraphs. Further adjustment may be necessary to refine the
installation after high-speed testing.

1. First, adjust the pivot angle of the transducer body, so its length is parallel with the length of the
hull of the boat. Then, using the angle portion of the mounting template, pivot the transducer
down so that it matches the template angle as shown on the template itself (Figure 22).

2. Fully tighten the pivot bolt, using a Phillips head screwdriver and a wrench. It may be necessary to
re-tighten the pivot bolt after initial use as the plastic may still be conforming to the pressure from
the lock washers.

3. Before removing the template, adjust the height of the assembly so the face of the transducer
touches the face of the template (Figure 22). Mark the position of the mounting bracket on the
transom with a pencil.

4a. If you are using the Two Piece Kick-up mounting bracket, force the pivot to the Up position to gain

access to the mounting screws. Make sure that the transducer location has not changed, then
hand tighten the two mounting screws (Figure 21). Snap the pivot back down.

5.

4.

3.

Figure 18

Nyloc

Nut

Pivot
Knuckle

Toothed

Lock Washer

Transducer
Arms

Pivot Bolt

Kick-up

Figure 19

Toothed

Lock Washer

Figure 20

Kick-up

Bracket

Single

Piece Bracket

Figure 21

Initial Br

acket Moun

ting

Cavitation that will cause
erratic sonar readings

Figure 23

Figure 22

Normal cavitation

Figure 24

Figure 25

4b. If you are using the Single Piece mounting bracket, make sure that the transducer location has not

changed, then hand tighten the two mounting screws (Figure 21).

5. Confirm that the pivot angle has not changed.

Route the Transducer Cable

There are several ways to route the transducer cable to the area where the control head will be installed.
The most common procedure routes the cable through the transom into the boat.

NOTE: Your boat may have a pre-existing wiring channel or conduit that you can use for the transducer
cable.

1. Unplug the other end of the transducer cable from the control head. Make sure that the cable is
long enough to accommodate the planned route by running the cable over the transom.

CAUTION! Do not cut or shorten the transducer cable, and try not to damage the cable insulation. Route
the cable as far as possible from any VHF radio antenna cables or tachometer cables to reduce the
possibility of interference. If the cable is too short, extension cables are available to extend the
transducer cable up to a total of 50' (15 m). For assistance, contact the Customer Resource Center at
www.humminbird.com or call 334-687-0503 for more information.

NOTE: The Two Piece Kick-up transducers can pivot up to 90 degrees in the bracket. Allow enough slack
in the cable for this movement. It is best to route the cable to the side of the transducer so the cable will
not be damaged by the transducer during movement.

2a. If you are routing the cable over the transom of the boat, secure the cable by attaching the cable

clamp to the transom, drilling

⁹⁄₆₄

"dia. holes for #8 x

⁵⁄₈

" (16 mm) wood screw(s), then skip directly

to step 5.

2b. If you will be routing the cable through a hole in the transom, drill a

⁵⁄₈

" diameter (16 mm) hole
above the waterline (Figure 25). Route the cable through this hole, then fill the hole with marine­grade silicone sealant and proceed to the next step immediately.

3. Place the escutcheon plate over the cable hole and use it as a guide to mark the two escutcheon
plate mounting holes. Remove the plate, drill two

⁹⁄₆₄

" dia. (3.5 mm) x

⁵⁄₈

" deep (16 mm) holes, then
fill both holes with marine-grade silicone sealant. Place the escutcheon plate over the cable hole
and attach with two #8 x

⁵⁄₈

" (16 mm) wood screws.

4. Route and secure the cable by attaching the cable clamp to the transom; drill one

⁹⁄₆₄

" dia. (3.5 mm)

x

⁵⁄₈

" deep (16 mm) hole, then fill hole with marine-grade silicone sealant, then attach the cable

clamp using a #8 x

⁵⁄₈

" (16 mm) screw.

5. Plug the other end of the transducer cable back into the control head connection holder.

Final Testing

After transom transducer installation, please perform the final testing and then finalize the installation
(see Test and Finish the Installation).

7.

6.

INSIDE THE HULL TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION

In-hull mounting generally produces good results in single thickness fiberglass-hulled boats.
Humminbird cannot guarantee depth performance when transmitting and receiving through the hull of
the boat, since some signal loss occurs. The amount of loss depends on hull construction and thickness,
as well as the installation position and process.

NOTE: The integral temperature probe will not work with in-hull mounting, so you may either want to
consider purchasing a Temperature/Speed accessory, a Temp Sensor, or obtaining a different transducer.
Humminbird offers a transducer exchange program to swap the NEW and UNASSEMBLED transducer,
accompanied by mounting hardware, for one without an integral temperature probe. Call the
Humminbird Customer Resource Center (334-687-0503) for details, or visit www.humminbird.com for
more information.

This installation requires slow-cure two-part epoxy. Do not use silicone or any other soft adhesive to
install the transducer, as this material reduces the sensitivity of the unit. Do not use five-minute epoxy,
as it has a tendency to cure before all the air bubbles can be purged, thus reducing signal strength.

NOTE: In-hull mounting requires an installed and operational control head.

Determine the Transducer Mounting Location

Decide where to install the transducer on the inside of the hull. Consider the following to find the best
location:

• Observe the outside of the boat hull to find the areas that are mostly free from turbulent water.
Avoid ribs, strakes and other protrusions, as these create turbulence (Figure 14).

• As a general rule, the faster the boat can travel, the further aft and closer to the centerline of the hull the
transducer has to be located in order to remain in contact with the water at high speeds (Figure 27).

Trial Installation

You will not be able to adjust the mounting after an inside the hull transducer is installed. It is best,
therefore, to perform a trial installation first that includes running the boat at various speeds, in order to
determine the best mounting area before permanently mounting the transducer.

1. Plug the transducer into the control head, then power up the control head. When the control head

detects a functioning transducer, it will automatically enter Normal operating mode.

2. View the sonar signal at its best by holding the transducer over the side, immersed in the water,

so that it is pointing straight down over a known flat bottom. Use the display to benchmark
against the sonar signal that will be detected once the transducer is placed in the hull.

3. Place the transducer body face down at the identified mounting location inside the hull, with the

pointed end towards the bow (Figure 26).

4. Fill the hull with enough water to submerge the transducer body. Use a sand-filled bag or other

heavy object to hold the transducer in position. The transducer cannot transmit through air, and
the water purges any air from between the transducer and the hull, and fills any voids in the coarse
fiberglass surface.

2.

1.

Figure 27

Transducer Mounted Inside the Hull

Figure 26

Preferred Mounting Area