Heatmaster G400s, G100s, G200s Operation And Maintenance Manual

G100s, G200s, G400s

EPA Certified Wood Burning Furnaces

OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL

Model:

By SteelTech Inc.
Version 3

Serial No.:

UL 2523-2009
CAN/CSA B366.1-2011

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2

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heatmasterss.com 3

Contents

Warranty and Safety

Warranty Registration & Delivery Form ....Front Insert

Warranty Details .............................4

Water Treatment And Testing ...................5

Safety Precautions............................6

Cautionary Markings.......................... 7

Furnace Installation Guide

Specifications ...............................8

Location ...................................8

Clearances To Combustibles....................8

Furnace Foundation ..........................9

Trench .....................................9

Wiring And Hydronic Lines ..................10-13

Operating The Furnace

Filling The Furnace With Water ................. 14

Firing The Furnace...........................14

Wood Quality, Testing and Storage .............15

Loading The Furnace ........................16

Operating A Gasification Furnace ..............17

How to clean the shaker system ................ 18

Controls And Safety Devices .................18-19

How the GS-Series Gasification

Outdoor Furnace Works ......................20

Care And Maintenance ....................21-22

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting To Ensure Proper

Burning And Air Flow ......................22-24

Electrical Troubleshooting ...................24-26

G100 And G200 Electrical Schematic ............27

G400 Electrical Schematic..................... 28

Instructions for Editing Control Settings........... 29

RETAIN THIS MANUAL FOR

FUTURE REFERENCE

DO NOT THROW AWAY

CANADA

SteelTech Inc.

Box 158

Winkler Mb. R6W 4A5

Canada

Ph. [phone]

Fax [phone]

USA

SteelTech Inc.

Box 373

Walhalla Nd 58282

Ph. [phone]

Fax [phone]

[e-mail]

www.heatmasterss.com

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4

LIMITED WARRANTY

SteelTech Inc. warrants to the original owner of the
GS Series outdoor furnace that it is free from defects
in workmanship and material, which could cause a
leak or malfunction of the firebox or water jacket,
and against corrosion (if the instructions in the
owners manual for water treatment and maintenance
are followed) for the life of the furnace toward the
purchase of a new HeatMasterSS furnace, in the
following pro-rated schedule.

Warranty schedule: coverage in the initial 5
years is 100%

• Year 6-7 is 50%

• Year 8-9 is 40%

• Year 10-15 is 30%

• Year 16-Life is 10%

• All firebrick used in the furnace carries a 2 year
warranty.

In addition, all steel components including housing,
legs, etc. have a pro-rated warranty for a period of
10 years with coverage reducing by 10% per year.
Any parts not manufactured by SteelTech Inc., that
are used on the furnace – such as thermostats, limit
switches, pumps, heat exchangers – carry their own
manufacturer’s warranty. SteelTech Inc. will not be
liable for the cost of shipping, replacement or repair
of these parts.

If warranty requires removing or replacing of the
furnace or a part on the furnace, SteelTech Inc. is
not responsible for the cost of plumbing,
replacement of antifreeze or water treatment,
shipping cost or any other cost other than the
replacement component or

furnace. SteelTech Inc. always has the right to decide
if a part or furnace will be repaired or replaced and
will not be liable for any cost not authorized by a
SteelTech Inc representative.

SteelTech Inc. does not warranty any damage caused
due to negligence and deterioration due to lack

of proper ongoing maintenance, physical damage
caused by abuse or freeze up, power surges or
unauthorized work or modifications to the furnace.

SteelTech Inc. is not liable for any damage or cost
which may occur from or during the operation of

the furnace or damage incurred due to any heating
system failure. The purchaser assumes all responsibility
for the care, maintenance and safe operation the
furnace including adding of approved boiler treatment
or water. SteelTech Inc does not warrant door gaskets,
exterior paint or finish.

To qualify for warranty all instructions must be followed
in operator’s manual, water must be tested and
maintained a minimum of once per year, and warranty
registration must be on file at SteelTech Inc Ind. within
30 days of purchase along with a copy of the original
invoice. No warranty can be approved unless the
warranty registration and water test verifications are
on file at SteelTech Inc.’s office.

The warranty can be violated by operating the furnace
in a manner inconsistent with the owner’s manual

SteelTech Inc. reserves the right to change conditions
of warranty at any time.

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WATER TREATMENT AND TESTING

Water Treatment Policy

To qualify for warranty, water must be tested a
minimum of once per year and water treatment added
when necessary.

To take a water sample:

1. Locate your water sample bottle, mailing carton
and mailing label provided to you by your dealer.

2. Open the boiler drain located at the bottom of
the rear of the furnace for 10-15 seconds or until
the water runs clear. CAUTION: Water is hot! Use
extreme care or a bucket to run water into and let
cool before collecting sample.

3. Fill one of the test bottles at least 1/2 to 2/3 full.

4. Fill out the mailing label provided with the test
bottle completely, including your email address, the
model number and serial number of your furnace.
Make sure to note if the furnace water contains any
antifreeze or additional chemicals.

5. Attach top part of label to sample bottle and
bottom part to outside of mailing tube. Place bottle
in tube.

6. Mail to our testing lab. Results can take up to 4
weeks to receive and up to 8 weeks if no email
address is on hand at HeatMasterSS.

You will receive a water test report outlining

what must be done (if anything). If any action is

necessary, take another sample and mail it to our
test lab again to verify the recommended changes
have been made.

Add the water treatment through the fill pipe located
at the top of the furnace when initially filling the
furnace with water or after testing, if needed. Ensure
that all drains are closed. It is recommended that
water treatment be added at a 1:200 ratio when
initially firing the furnace and 1:300 after that.
Additional treatment may have to be added for water
with more severe properties or for systems with more
chemically demanding requirements.

Recommended operating levels are as
follows:

Conductivity: 100 - 4000 ppm

pH: 8.5 – 10. 5

Nitrates: no less than 730 ppm

Test Parameters and What They Mean

Conductivity

Conductivity is a measurement of minerals in your
furnace water. While it is common to have minerals in
water, in excess minerals can cause many problems in
hydronic systems including scaling and corrosion.

pH

pH is measurement of alkalinity (hard or soft water).
For outdoor furnace water and the water treatment
used in outdoor furnaces it is better to have your water
a little harder than softer (recommended pH range is

8.5-10) as the active ingredients in the water treatment
neutralize harder water easier than softer water

Nitrates

Nitrates tested for are a measurement of how much
water treatment is in the water. Nitrates measured are
active units of water treatment available to neutralize
harmful elements in your furnace water. Nitrates also
act to neutralize harmful bacteria that may build up in
the furnace water over time.

Glycol

Inhibited glycol provides anti-corrosion elements

and freeze protection for outdoor furnaces and is
compatible with Outdoor Furnace Water Treatment.
Because outdoor furnaces are open to the atmosphere
systems and will have fresh water added occasionally,
oxygen is always entering the system and will break
down the glycol over time to create glycolic acid which
will harm your furnace system. When this happens
you will be required to drain and flush your furnace
system.

It is always suggested to use 100% virgin glycol
instead of recycled glycol as it will break down much
sooner and create glycolic acid.

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6

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Read and understand all precautions before operating
the furnace.

This wood heater needs periodic inspection and
repair for proper operation. It is against federal
regulations to operate this wood heater in a manner
inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.

Save these instructions. Retain this manual as
long as you own your GS SERIES outdoor furnace.
Carefully read and follow these directions.

DANGER

Do not start fire with or burn garbage, gasoline,
naptha, engine oil or other inappropriate materials.
Only competent persons with a sound understanding
of this heating method should operate this furnace.
Improper firing could result in personal injury and/or
damage to the unit and void warranty.

ATTENTION

• BURN WOOD ONLY. LOAD FUEL CAREFULLY OR
DAMAGE MAY RESULT

• The person(s) operating this furnace must comply
with all applicable local and state laws or other
requirements,

• The person(s) operating this furnace are
responsible to run it in such a way so that it does
not cause a public or private nuisance. Consult with
local authorities prior to installation to adhere to
local laws and ordinances.

• DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Attempts to
achieve heat output rates that exceed the heater
design specifications can result in permanent
damage to the heater.

WARNING

• All installations and operations of your GS SERIES
product must follow state, provincial, and local
laws pertaining to operations, wiring, plumbing
and building codes.

• All models operate at atmospheric pressure. DO
NOT obstruct, block or plug the overflow vent tube
in any way, which is located on top of the boiler.

• When installing the furnace, the chimney should
never be connected to a chimney flue serving
another appliance

• Do not operate furnace in event of power failure

• Use caution when opening firebox and ash
cleaning doors. Crack door open using the safety
catch for at least 20 seconds before opening door.
Stand behind the door when opening it.

• Risk of fire:

– Do not operate with fuel loading or ash removal

doors open.

– Do not store fuel or other combustible material

within marked installation clearances

– Inspect and clean flues and chimney regularly

CAUTION

• Do not start or operate furnace without checking
heating fluid. Furnace must be filled until heating
fluid comes out of vent pipe on the top of the
furnace.

• Check for buried cables and utility lines before
digging the trench to your furnace.

• For safety and proper temperature control keep all
doors closed during operation.

• Hot Surfaces: Keep children away. Do not touch
during operation.

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Cautionary Markings

Images on this page not to scale

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FURNACE INSTALLATION GUIDE

Installation should be performed by a qualified installer and will comply with all requirements of the agency
having jurisdiction.

G100s G200s G400s

Max BTU Output 120,000 BTU/hr 210,000 BTU/hr 350,000 BTU/hr

Heat Output (8 Hour Burn) 47,772 BTU/hr 111,315 BTU/hr 180,409 BTU/hr

Furnace Size (W x L x H) 38 x 58 x 79 52 x 70 x 88 52 x 82 x 92

Furnace Weight 1088 lbs 1840 lbs 2480 lbs

Firebox Dimensions (W x L x H) 19 x 20 x 30 28 x 30 x 36 30 x 42 x 40

Chimney Size 6” 6” 8”

Water Capacity 100 gallons 195 gallons 250 gallons

8 Hour Average Efficiency Using
Higher Heating Value of Wood

75.8% 79.0% 74.8%

LOCATION

Where you install the furnace will have an affect on
the efficiency of your furnace. Although the furnace is
very well insulated, installing the furnace outdoors will
mean some heat loss at the furnace. The furnace will
have less heat loss when installed indoors away from
the elements that can cause heat loss.

• Maintain adequate clearance of buildings and
combustibles.

• Do not place or store wood within stove
installation clearances or within the space
required for charging and ash removal.

• Pile and store wood under shelter.

• Contact all governing authorities in your area prior
to installation.

• When choosing the location of your furnace you
should consider prevailing wind direction, distance
from home and wood storage for refueling.

• Give consideration for any effect on your
neighbors.

CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLES

When installing your GS SERIES furnace, the following
clearances to combustibles must always be followed
or damage and personal injury may result:

Minimum Clearance to Combustibles

Furnace Roof to Ceiling (Indoor
Installations)

6”

Side Walls & Rear 6”

Front (Loading door) 24”

**Annual Efficiency rating is calculated using the weighted average test results from the emission test reports for
each model.

Efficiency is determined by dividing the total input, using the higher heating value of wood (8700 BTU/lb), by the
average heat output taken off of the furnace.

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FURNACE FOUNDATION

• Footprint dimensions are in the illustration to the
right.

• Inspect the ground conditions that you intend to
install your furnace on.

• A cement pad of 4-6” in thickness should be used.
Cement pads should be a little bigger than the
actual furnace. You can also include about a 4’
extra length front and back so you have a solid
working area.

• The furnace can also be placed on 4 cement
blocks not less than 6” wide X 10” long and 3”
thick. Place your blocks so the legs will stand on
the center of the blocks.

• The furnace may be installed on a combustible
floor provided a noncombustible material such
as metal or masonry liner is used in the following
areas:

– Underneath the furnace

– At least 16“ in front of the furnace and 8” on

each side of the firebox and lower combustion
chamber doors.

TRENCH

SteelTech Inc recommends the trench to be 24” to 36”
deep and wide enough to install your water lines. If
possible, have a gradual slope in your trench to allow
drainage away from your lines and out of the trench
bottom.

Most insulated underground pipe has room for
electrical wire in it. If it does not, place electrical
supply in bottom of trench and cover with 6 inches of
dirt.

A minimum of R8 insulation value is recommended
and a water tight vapor barrier such as PVC pipe or
drain tile to encase your insulation is a must.

NOTE : If you are installing your water lines under an
area where vehicles will cross, you should increase
your depth of the trench and use a schedule pipe
over your lines to reduce the pressure generated
on the lines.

50.112”

43.895”

12.999” 27.609”

55.412”

48” concrete

work space

(optional)

48” concrete
work space
(optional)

62.161”

44.012”

67.400”

48” concrete

work space

(optional)

48” concrete
work space
(optional)

14.609”

30.106”

37.013

30.687”

20.603”

42.187”

48” concrete

work space

(optional)

48” concrete
work space
(optional)

G100s

G200s

G400s

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LEAD IN
POWER BOX

HOT WATER
SUPPLY OUTLETS

FURNACE
DRAIN VALVE

H.E TUBE CLEANING ACCESS

COLD WATER
RETURN OUTLETS

DRAFT INDUCER FAN

LIFT HOOK

CONTROL BOX

WATER LEVEL FLOAT

FIREBOX DOOR

DAMPER COVER

LOWER
COMBUSTION
CHAMBER

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WIRING AND HYDRONIC LINES

• All wiring must conform to local codes.

• Use an electrical wire rated and approved for

underground installations. This wiring can be
placed in the same trench below the water lines.
A qualified technician must perform the electrical
portion of the installation.

• See Page 29 or 30 for the furnace wiring

diagrams.

Furnace Connection

• Connections to the furnace are clearly marked.

• Return (from the house) are the top ports,

• Supply (to the house) are the bottom ports.

• The installation of isolation valves at both ends of

the pump is recommended as well as a valve at
the return line. This will allow you to shut off water
supply if repairs or additional heating components
are added to the system.

• Your main power is connected to the junction box

at the back of furnace and should be connected
by a qualified technician.

Building Connections

A hole large enough to accommodate the water
lines, insulation and PVC piping through the wall is
important. Attention to sealing this point on both sides
is also important.

System Flow Rates

Because of the efficiency in which your
G Series furnace transfers heat into the
water, it is important that enough water
flow is present in the system. If there is
not enough water flow, the water around
the heat exchange tubes may boil while
water in other parts of the tank are cool.
It my be necessary to install a mixing
pump on an unused set of lines to make
sure there is enough flow in the furnace
to keep this from happening.

The following are required flow rates:

G100 - 8 GPM (one typical building circuit)
G200 - 16 GPM (two typical building circuits or one
building circuit and a mixing pump on the back of the
furnace)
G400 - 25 GPM (four typical building circuits. If less
than four, a mixing pump should be installed at the
back of the furnace)

Underground Hydronic Lines

Hydronic lines (hot water heating lines) whenever
buried or encased in cement should not be spliced.
Take the necessary steps to ensure they stay dry.
This ensures that minimal heat loss occurs. Supply and
return lines should be a minimum of 1” inside diameter
and have a rating of 100 PSI capacity at 180° F.

Hint: Mark your feed and return lines prior to covering
and allow enough pipe above ground at both ends
for a relaxed connection. Red lines are generally
“hot” while blue are usually “cold”.

Interior Connections

You may require either a water-to-water (tube and
shell or plate) or a water-to-air exchanger (rad) to
transfer heat energy from the hot water your furnace
has produced. Your plumber or dealer can design and
install a system to best fit your needs. The following
are examples of basic interior connections. Your
dealer carries the necessary parts for installation.

It is important to note that when installing your
piping system in your building that you should avoid
installation methods that cause too great a restriction
in the piping system. Examples of this are reducing
pipe size, an excessive amount of joints and elbows,
etc.

It is also important to install air bleed valves at high
points in the system to avoid air lock, especially if
these points are higher than the furnace. Air lock can
restrict system flow which will restrict the amount of
BTU’s available to your building and can cause your
furnace to overheat or stratify so that cold water is
sent to your building.

DISCLAIMER: The following information in the interior
connections are examples and suggestions only. When
installing a furnace and its parts it is best to consult
your local dealer or a qualified technician.

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12

Water-To-Water Heat Exchangers

To maintain pressure in an existing boiler system
while using an outdoor furnace a water-to-water heat
exchanger is used. The water-to-water exchanger

is installed in-line on the supply side of the existing
pressurized boiler system.

Flat Plate Exchanger For Pressurized Boiler
Systems

Flat plate exchanger systems that are used with
pressurized systems such as in floor heating systems
help to heat the water in the pressurized system
while keeping the two systems separate. Because an
outdoor furnace is an open system (not pressurized)
and the system tied in to in this type of application is
pressurized it allows both systems to stay the same
while being operational.

The water supplied by the outdoor furnace will heat
the water in the pressurized system while the present
heat source in the pressurized system (such as a
boiler) can be used as a back up heat source in case
of emergency or need for additional heat.

When connecting the furnace to an existing
pressurized boiler system:

• The furnace must not be installed so that it
interferes with normal heat delivery of
the existing boiler system

• The furnace must be installed

without affecting the operation of

the electrical and mechanical safety

controls of the original boiler

• Provide for a changeover from one

fuel to the other without requiring

manual adjustment of any controls

or components other than the

thermostats.

• Have provisions for preventing, or adequate water

capacity within the boiler to prevent damage from

loss of circulation due to electrical power failure.

• Be installed without changing the function of the

controls or rewiring the original boiler. A wiring

interconnection is permitted. The electrical system

of both boilers shall be powered from a single

branch circuit without exception.

Boiler Safety

• Operate the boiler periodically to ensure that it will
operate satisfactorily when needed.

• Do not relocate or bypass any of the safety controls
in the original boiler installation

• The operation of the boiler must be verified for
acceptable operation before and after installation
of the add-on appliance by a gas fitter who is
recognized by the regulatory authority

• Do not connect to any chimney or vent serving a
gas appliance

Installation should comply with requirements of CAN/
CSA-B365, and changes to the installation should comply
with CSA B139 (for oil-fired boilers), C22.1 (for electric
boilers), or CAN/CSA B149.2 (for gas fired boilers).

Boiler Diagram

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Domestic Hot Water

Flat plate exchanger systems used to pre-heat
domestic water tanks are generally more reactive
to hot water demands then tube and shell systems.
However tube and shell ex-changers hold up better
when hard water is present.

Forced Air Furnace (Water-To-Air Exchanger)

The water-to-air heat exchanger must be mounted so
that air blows through the fins (coils). The exchanger
should be mounted below the A/C coil if possible.
The ex-changer should be sized to fit existing duct
work and should produce about as many BTU’s as
the existing heat source. An exchanger that produces
too many BTU’s will result in uneven heat and the fan
stopping too quickly while a heat exchanger that is

undersized will not produced the necessary BTU’s. The
heat exchanger can also be placed into the cold air
portion of the duct work but it is not recommended
because some furnaces have an overheat shut off if
the fan overheats as a result of blowing hot instead of
cold air.

It is important that the warm-air supply-duct system be
constructed of metal in accordance with NFPA 90B­1993, 2-1.1. If the outlet-air temperature of a central
furnace exceeds 250° F (121° C) when it is tested in
accordance with the requirements for Simultaneous
Firing in 56.4.1 and 56.4.2 of the standard. It is also
important that the plenums installed to the furnaces be
constructed of metal in accordance with NFPA 90B­1993, 2-1.3.

Forced Air & Domestic Water Diagram

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14

OPERATING THE FURNACE

FILLING THE FURNACE WITH WATER

Your furnace has a vent pipe that protrudes through
the roof which is used to fill the furnace with water.

CAUTION: Do not fire furnace until it is filled with
water. Allow furnace to run for 2 days and check
system water levels and fittings for leaks. Take your
initial water sample at this time and be sure that it is
sent in for testing.

IMPORTANT: To properly maintain your furnace,
test your water every year. Water treatment may
need to be added or your furnace may need to be
drained and flushed and water treatment added. For
information on acquiring this product refer to your
local dealer.

Hint: It is recommended that a fill valve be installed
inline in the building you’re heating with a shut off
valve or one way check valve (Check local codes for
proper installation) to prevent back flow.

Filling the furnace with the
inline valve pushes all the air
towards the furnace and out of
the vent. Because this furnace is
an open system it is normal that
water will have to be added
annually, depending on the
circumstances (6 to 10 gallons
is not unusual).

Hint: If any part of the system
is higher than the furnace a
bleeder valve should be used
to make sure all air is removed.

ATTENTION: Your water level will rise as the
temperature of the water rises and fall as the water
temperature falls. If your water level falls to a low
level, first check your water temperature before filling
with water again.

FIRING THE FURNACE

These furnaces have been specifically designed to
burn wood and as such, are not intended for burning
any other fuels such as rubber, material treated
with petroleum products, leaves, paper products,
cardboard, plastic or garbage. Burning these fuels in
your furnace will result in the warranty on the furnace
being voided.

BURN WOOD ONLY. Load carefully or damage may
result.

On starting an initial fire, use kindling wood and
paper, if required. Add heavier fuel gradually until a
suitable fire is achieved. The furnace will continue to
feed an air supply to the fire until your aqua stat shut
off temperature is reached.

TIP: Develop and keep a bed of ashes in the firebox
to keep coals lit during periods of idle. It is common

for the fire to go out during idle when first fired in the
fall. The ashes will help to insulate the coals and keep
them lit.

NOTE : Your furnace is equipped with a low
temperature cut off feature. Anytime the water
temperature drops below 120° F, including first firing
of the furnace, you will need to activate the low
temperature bypass function. The black button
(labeled Cold Start) is located on the control panel.
When pushed, the furnace will allow the fan to turn on
to start your fire.

ATTENTION: On the initial start up, the water jacket
will reach what is called the dew point. This creates a
sweating inside the fire box which may last a couple
of days and is normal.

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WOOD QUALITY

This heater is designed to burn natural wood only.
Higher efficiencies and lower emissions generally
result when burning air dried seasoned hardwoods
(15-25)% moisture content), as compared to softwoods
or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.

DO NOT BURN:

1. Garbage;

2. Lawn clippings or yard waste;

3. Materials containing rubber, including tires;

4. Materials containing plastic;

5. Waste petroleum products, paints or paint
thinners, or asphalt products;

6. Materials containing asbestos;

7. Construction or demolition debris;

8. Railroad ties or pressure-treated wood;

9. Manure or animal remains;

10. Salt water driftwood or other previously salt
water saturated materials;

11. Unseasoned wood; or

12. Paper products, cardboard, plywood, or
particleboard.

The prohibition against burning these materials does
not prohibit the use of fire starters made from paper,
cardboard, saw dust, wax and similar substances for
the purpose of starting a fire in an affected wood
heater.

Burning these materials may result in release of toxic
fumes or render the heater ineffective and cause
smoke.

Typically it takes at least 12 months to properly season
wood. Seasoned wood looks dark, or gray when
compared to green wood - but if you split a piece of
seasoned wood - it’s WHITE on the inside. It has cracks

running through each piece, and a lot of little cracks
on the inner rings. Unseasoned wood has a wet, fresh
looking center, with lighter wood near the edges or
ends which have been exposed since cutting. When
firewood is very fresh, the bark will be tightly attached.

Keep in mind the diameter of wood you use. Especially
with the G100, using wood that is no larger in
diameter than 6” will give you a better, more even
burn. For the G200 and G400 larger diameter wood
can be used but do not exceed 8”. For anything over
6” diameter it may be best to split the log. Smaller
split wood will season faster, burn better and will be
easier to load and stack in the firebox

Using a moisture meter to test your wood

You can use a moisture meter to test how wet your
wood is. A moisture meter will measure the moisture
content of a piece of wood by inserting the metal
prongs into the grain of the wood. The moisture
content will be displayed. To get an accurate reading
make sure to use a high quality moisture meter, split
the wood and take at least 2-3 readings from different
points of the wood.

Storing wood

Store your wood pile under an open ended shelter to
avoid rain and snow buildup on the pile. Keeping 3
sides open will allow the sun and wind to season the
wood. Do not keep wood in a woodshed or under a
tarp in summer as the moisture that evaporates from
the wood will have nowhere to go.

Typical moisture meter

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16

LOADING THE FURNACE

WARNING: Risk of fire flashback. Follow these

instructions carefully or personal injury may result.

It is always best to load your furnace when it is low
on wood. DO NOT open the firebox door within 15 or
more minutes of the furnace reaching temperature or
when the firebox is full of wood.

To reduce condensation and creosote formation, load
only enough wood to last 12-16 hours

Before opening any door to the furnace:

1. Crack the firebox door open to the safety catch for
at least 15 seconds to allow the air draft to build
out the chimney and prevent blow back.

2. Open door slowly while standing behind the door

3. Use your ash rake to knock charred wood down
and bank hot coals away from slot and toward
edges of fire-box.

Hint: If there is a minimal coal bed left use the ash

rake to rake through the ash bed to stir up the hot
coals underneath the surface. Lay small pieces of
wood on top of the coals before loading larger
pieces of wood.

4. Make sure the air slot in the refractory brick is clear

5. Load wood carefully using the information and
diagram on the following page.

6. Close firebox door

WARNING: Risk of fire:

• Do not operate with fuel loading or ash removal
doors open.- Do not store fuel or other combustible
material within marked installation clearances

• Inspect and clean flues and chimney regularly

• Remove ashes regularly

CAUTION: Hot Surfaces: Keep children away. Do not
touch during operation.

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OPERATING A GASIFICATION FURNACE
REQUIRES:

1. Use seasoned wood - It is always recommended

to use dry seasoned wood (15-25% moisture,
seasoned 1-2 years) when operating a gasification
furnace with a minimal mix of green wood. If
required to burn green or wet wood, always mix
with a higher ratio of dry or seasoned wood.

2. Stacking - Using the Illustration to the right,
first stack your primary wood on the coal bed
in the firebox so that as the wood gasifies and
burns, the wood above it falls on top of the coal
bed at the bottom of the firebox to continue the
gasification process. Stack your secondary wood
around the primary wood to fill the firebox, if
necessary.

3 Log Sizing - For ideal operation, log sizing

should not exceed 8” in diameter. Exceeding the
recommended sizing may result in doming (which
only allows for the bottom and/or inside core of
the log to burn) or bridging (the wood “hangs up”
in the firebox and separates from the coal bed).
Pieces of wood larger than 8” should be split to
smaller size pieces for use in gasification furnaces.

Improper wood sizing, stacking or excessive moisture
content in the wood may result in the fire going out,
improper burning and extensive creosote buildup
not allowing for efficient burning of the wood and
eventual furnace malfunction.

For more information on wood quality follow these links:

EPA’s Burnwise Program - http://www.epa.gov/burnwise.

How to Use a Moisture Meter (Video) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM2WGgRcnm0

Split, Stack, Cover and Store (Video) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yo1--Zrh11s

Wet Wood is a Waste brochure - http://www.epa.gov/burnwise/pdfs/wetwoodwastebrochure.pdf

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18

CONTROLS AND SAFETY DEVICES

This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum
low burn rate that must not be altered. It is against
federal regulations to alter this setting or otherwise
operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent
with operating instructions in this manual.v

Furnace Control
Your HeatMasterSS GS Series furnace uses a
factory-programmed control to maintain your water
temperature by using an air damper control and draft
inducer fan. The control is located around the corner
to the left of the firebox door and requires no user
programming or changes. The control displays the
water temperature in your furnace, the damper air
percentage and any alarm messages, if set off.

NOTE : A timer has been programmed into the control
to fire the furnace for 3 minutes after 90 minutes of
idling and for 3 minutes every 30 minutes thereafter.
This timer will help to keep your coal bed lit during
long idle periods. The timer settings can be adjusted.
See the timer settings section.

Air Damper
The damper air percentage is the amount of air
being drawn through the furnace to stoke the fire.
This feature keeps your furnace burning clean and hot
while keeping your water temperature in the preferred
range. The damper is located beneath the firebox
loading door and is a mechanical part that opens or
closes the air injection port.

Draft Inducer
The draft inducer fan is located at the rear of the
furnace on the top and is used to draw air from the
air damper through the furnace. The fan should be on
whenever the air damper percentage is above 0%

High Limit Switch

The high limit cut off switch is used to ensure the
furnace does not cause damage via runaway fire. It
acts as a safety switch by cutting power off to the fan
if the water temperature rises above 190° F.

Alarm LED Light

The LED alarm light is located on the front left corner
of the furnace and will blink red if the furnace is low
on water or if the water temperature is too low or
too high. It is intended to warn the user of potential
problems.

Cold Start Button

The button is located on the control panel in the
top right corner. Press the button to bypass the low
temperature function of the control to fire the furnace
from a cold start (First firing the furnace or when the
water temperature has gone low).

CLEANING YOUR HIGH EFFICIENCY HEAT
EXCHANGE TUBES

Located behind the rear door of the unit. You will see
2 or 1 (depending on the model of the unit) Shaker
handles peaking out the back of the water jacket
near the draft fan.

Carefully take hold of the handles and repeatedly
move them up and down as shown on

(figure 1

).
This ensures that the creosote or any form of debris
is cleaned out of the flue pipes which then allows for
more heat transfer and cleaner burn.

(figure 1)

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ALARM LED LIGHT

COLD START BUTTON

FUSES

FURNACE CONTROL

FURNACE ON/OFF

BUTTON

AIR DAMPER

DRAFT
INDUCER
FAN

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20

HOW THE GS-SERIES GASIFICATION
OUTDOOR FURNACE WORKS

Steel Tech Inc is proud of it’s reputation of producing
innovative outdoor heating methods and our
GS Series outdoor furnaces are continuing that trend.
They operate more efficiently with fewer emissions
than other outdoor furnaces. The HeatMasterSS
GS Series wood furnaces use up to 50% less wood to
create the same heat.

How It Works

Wood gas is generated in a high temperature reaction
(>700° F) between the wood and a limited amount
of oxygen. The heat and lack of oxygen “bakes” the
wood, causing the gases in the wood to release in
the form of carbon monoxide, hydrogen and carbon
dioxide.

The wood gas mixture that is created in the firebox
then gets forced through the base of the fire along
with any ash that would come with it and burned
at temperatures around 2000° F in the gasification
chamber. This creates a very hot, very clean burn
helping you get the most out of your fuel. After the gas
is burned, heat is extracted to the water jacket using
the heat exchange tubes.

Normal exit temperatures of the exhaust are 200-300° F.

The most notable indicator of effective gasification is
the lack of smoke exiting the chimney. However, many
times you will see white exhaust that dissipates quickly,
which is steam from the wood in the firebox.

The gasification process creates longer burn times
and can reduce wood consumption as much as 50%
compared to a standard outdoor furnace.

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CARE AND MAINTENANCE

To obtain the high levels of performance of your
furnace, certain maintenance procedures are required
periodically.

On a daily basis:

• Ensure that all doors are closed and sealing

properly. Adjust if necessary.

• Check for creosote buildup in firebox and lower

combustion chamber. Some creosote buildup along
the walls, door jamb and firebox door is normal.

• Check water level.

• Clean heat exchange tubes by aggressively

shaking the lever up and down at least 5 times.

• Check to make sure fan and control are functioning

properly. The fan should turn on when the furnace
calls for heat. The control display should be
functional and keeping the water temperature
between 160 and 180° F.

• Check for embers or ashes laying on the ground

around the furnace and dispose of them.

• Make sure all covers and guards are in place

securely.

On a weekly basis:

• Check for creosote build up in the heat transfer

tubes and chimney using the access panel on the
rear the furnace.

WARNING: Always keep the firebox door open

when removing ash from the Lower Combustion
Chamber.

• Remove ash from Lower Combustion Chamber

in the horseshoe refractory brick and both sides,
carefully using your ash rake.

• Dispose of ashes in a metal container away from

the stove and wood pile.

On a monthly basis:

• Inspect air inlet for creosote build up or blockage.

• Depending on the type and quality of wood

being used, ash removal from the fire box may be
necessary. For optimal performance the ash bed
in the firebox should not exceed 6-8”. If you are
burning a wood fuel that leaves quite a bit of ash
you may need to clean your firebox out every 2-4
weeks to continue to get optimal performance from

your furnace.

• Check fan motor and wheel for creosote buildup.
The motor and wheel can be easily removed by
unplugging the wires to the fan and removing the
nuts on the stainless steel plate.

On a seasonal basis when furnace is not in
use, you will have to:

• Remove all ashes and excess creosote from
firebox, lower combustion chamber, heat exchange
tubes and chimney.

• Check all gasket seals to make sure they are
sealing. To replace, remove the old seal and
residues from the door, scuff the surface where the
seal is placed with sandpaper and re-apply high
temp silicone. Lay fiberglass rope over silicone
and let bond for at least 24 hours before using the
furnace again.

• Cover chimney and crack open the bottom door
enough to allow air movement and reduction of
condensation within the firebox.

• Make sure your water tank is full and have

your water treatment tested and adjusted to

manufacturer’s specifications. See page 5 for exact
specifications.

• Tighten your firebox door by adjusting the hinges
on each side of the door.

All covers and guards must be in place at all times,
except for maintenance or service.

Care for the exterior of your furnace is minimal.

The user must wash and remove ash and creosote
regularly.

Ashes should be placed in a metal container with

a tight fitting lid. The closed container should be
placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground
well away from all combustible materials before final
disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in
soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be
retained in the closed container until all cinders have
thoroughly cooled.

Creosote – Formation and Need for Removal.

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture

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22

TROUBLESHOOTING

TROUBLESHOOTING TO ENSURE PROPER
BURNING AND AIR FLOW

If your furnace is not producing enough heat, is
smoking while burning, there is no exhaust coming
from the chimney or there is general concern on how
well it is functioning you can confirm functionality
using this process:

1. Remove damper cover located below the firebox
door and ensure the damper is opening the metal
disc when the furnace is calling for heat and closing
when the furnace is satisfied.

2. Use a light piece of paper (like receipt paper) and
hold it up to both of the openings in the metal disc.
The paper should suction to the opening. If it is not,
there is an airflow issue in the furnace that should
be diagnosed by your dealer.

3. Make sure ash bed is not so high as to block air
holes in the panels on the sides of the firebox

4. Check to ensure the slot at the bottom of the firebox
is completely open

5. Check to ensure all ash from the lower combustion
chamber is removed and there are no block-ages.
Make sure ash from the middle, both sides and
behind the brick are cleaned.

6. Inspect top chamber of furnace and heat exchange
tubes for blockage.

– Is there wet creosote build up?

– Do the spirals in the heat exchange tubes have

full movement up and down?

– Is there creosote build up in the fan housing or in

the fan wheel?

Clean any creosote found by scraping it off.

7. Check chimney for blockage, inspecting all the way
down into the furnace. Clean out any blockage.

More than likely, if there is a problem with the furnace
burn or air flow, you will find it by checking these things.

If the actuator damper plates do not open or close
as they should and the power in the furnace is acting
appropriately:

1. Remove the bracket, spring and motor to get at the
damper plates.

2. Remove plates and clean of any creosote, ice, dirt,
etc.

3. Re-install and test for function.

If the furnace is running but fails to bring water up to
temperature:

1. Check fire.

2. Check for power at furnace. Make sure control is
running with no errors or alerts

3. Check fan for operation.

4. Check that the damper is open to allow air injection.

5. Check if the furnace is properly gasifying by opening
the bottom door to the Lower Combustion chamber.
A flame should be visible only for a short time after
opening the door and glowing embers should be
present. Keep arms, legs and head at least 3 feet
from the opening.

to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the
relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire.
As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the
flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an
extremely hot fire. The chimney and chimney connector
should be inspected at least twice monthly during the
heating season to determine if a creosote buildup has
occurred. If creosote has accumulated it should be
removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.

CAUTION: Make certain that all electrical power to
the furnace and components is shut off. It can be

washed using water and a mild non abrasive cleaner
suitable for painted surfaces.

ATTENTION: Avoid direct water pressure to electrical
components and connections.

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6. Ensure that the air slot in the firebox refractory is
clear to allow proper burning

7. Check fuel type. Poor quality fuel will not provide as
many BTU’s as high quality fuel.

8. Check water level of furnace.

9. Check for creosote blockage in the chimney and
heat exchange tubes.

10. Check to ensure all pumps in the system are running.

11. Check to make sure there are no leaks, hot/wet
spots on your ground or breaks in the pipe or fit
tings which may cause the pipe to be saturated and
lose its insulation value.

12. Check temperature of water exiting furnace, entering
the building being heated and before and after
each heat exchanger. Large temperature drops
signal large consumption of the BTU’s produced by
the furnace. If there is a large difference in the water
at the top of the tank and the water coming from the
supply outlet there is not enough flow in the water
tank. (See next topic).

13. If everything is functional call your dealer.

If the water temp on the control is hot (170-180° F or
higher) but the water temp in the supply line is cool

1. Check system for flow:

– Check to ensure all pumps in the system are

running and none are turned the wrong way.

– Check filter cartridge for flow blockage (if

installed).

– Check for air in the system at the exchanger by

bleeding off.

– Check for closed valves to ensure water flow.

2. If no obvious flow issues arise from above system
checks, turn off pumps on each line, close ball
valves on the return lines. Remove return line and
turn pump on again. Dump water in a 5 gallon
bucket and time how fast it fills up. You should be
able to calculate flow rate in that line. Do this for
each line coming off of the furnace to calculate
furnace flow rate.

3. These furnaces require a certain amount of flow
through the water jacket. If both sets of outlets are
not being used, a recirculation pump should be
installed on the extra set of lines. See page 11 for
more details.

If the furnace water and the building supply lines
are hot but buildings do not have heat:

1. Check to ensure all pumps in the system are
running.

2. Check filter cartridge for flow blockage (if
installed).

3. Check for air in the system at the exchanger by
bleeding off.

4. Check for closed valves to ensure water flow.
Check Temperature of water exiting the furnace,
entering the building being heated and before
and after each heat exchanger. Large temperature
drops signal large consumption of the BTU’s
produced by the furnace.

If the furnace overheats:

1. Close all air inlets and doors on the furnace

2. Retrieve as much heat as possible from the system
by turning thermostats up and opening windows
until furnace cools down.

3. Check that all doors are closing properly and that
door gasket is completely sealing.

4. Check that the damper plate is opening and
closing properly. It should be completely closed
when the furnace temperature is over 180° F.

5. Check water level.

6. Check to ensure all pumps in the system are
running.

If there is a runaway or chimney fire:

1. Make sure the firebox and ash pan doors are
tightly closed.

2. Close all combustion air inlets on the furnace.

If the furnace has shut down:

1. Check to ensure that the unit has power.

2. Check to ensure the furnace On/Off switch is in the
On position.

3. Check the water temperature (furnace has a high
temperature cut off of 190° F and turns on again at
140° F).

4. Check control for errors that may have shut the
furnace down.

5. If all checks have not corrected the problem have a
technician check the control panel.

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24

ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING

Electrical troubleshooting should always be done by
a qualified technician

High Limit Switch:

Using an electrical testing meter check for power on
both poles of the high limit switch.

• If the furnace temperature is above 195° F. the
switch should be OPEN and there should only be
power on one pole of the switch. If the furnace was
over 195° F. and the switch has opened the water
will need to cool down to approximately 140° F.
before it will close and allow power through once
again.

• If the furnace has not over heated (190° F+) but
there is still power on only one pole of the switch,
the switch is faulty and should be replaced.

• If there is not power on either pole check for power
at the main power switch at the rear of the furnace.

Control power supply switch:

Using an electrical testing meter check for power on
both poles of the power supply rocker switch. The
switch has power in, neutral, and power out poles.
During normal operation there should be power at the
power in and power out poles.

• If there is only power on one of the poles check to
make sure the switch is in the “on” position.

If there is a power failure:

1. Open all flow-check and zone valves in the system.
Depending on the system design, this may allow
convective circulation.

NOTE: This does not apply to gravity systems, as they

have no flow-check valves and will continue to
operate normally without electricity.

2. It is important to remember that the heating
systems cannot dispose of a great deal of heat
without the circulator(s) running. Avoid over-firing!

DO NOT LOAD LARGE AMOUNTS OF SOLID FUEL
INTO THE FURNACE! Fire the furnace cautiously

until you are able to determine how quickly the
heat system is able to absorb the heat being
produced by the furnace.

3. When the power has returned, reset all flow-check
and zone valves and resume normal operation of
the system.

If there is smoke leaking out of the door

1. Check to ensure door is sealing properly.

2. If the seal is worn out it will have to be replaced.

3. The door may need to be adjusted. To do this
loosen the door latch bearings and nuts on door
hinge and set the door so it seals tightly against
the door jamb. Re-tighten once door is in place.

If the furnace has an excessive amount of creosote

1. Check to ensure the furnace is sized accurately
according to heat demand. If the furnace is
oversized it will idle and cause this.

2. Check moisture content in your wood fuel. Moisture
content over 30% may cause creosote buildup.
Recommended moisture content in your wood fuel
is 15-20%.

3. Remove the access panel at the rear of the furnace
and inspect the bypass door for smoke leakage

4. If the chimney and/or heat exchange tubes
become plugged with creosote it will be necessary
to scrape the creosote out to obtain a proper burn
in the firebox.

You are having to fill the furnace with water more
then once a week or more then a few gallons
of water per week and there is no obvious
explanation.

1. Check the temperature settings and gasket on
the door and ash drawer to ensure the furnace
is not over temperature and steaming. If water
temperature reaches levels over 200 degrees
Fahrenheit the water will steam and water loss will
occur.

2. Check the perimeter of the furnace for water
puddles collecting or dripping from the furnace.

3. Check all plumbing in the system to ensure there
are no leaks.

4. If these checks have not provided an answer call
your dealer.

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heatmasterss.com 25

• If the switch is “on” and there is only power on one
pole the switch is faulty and should be replaced.

• If there is not power on either the power in or the
power out pole check for power at the high limit
switch.

Siemens 24V DC Power Supply:

Using an electrical testing meter check for DC voltage
at the OUTPUT terminals.

• If there is 24 volts DC across the terminals and the
green LED on the front is lit the power supply is
working.

• If there is not 24 volts DC check for power on the
INPUT terminals (this should be 115V AC)

• If there is 115V AC on the INPUT terminals but
not 24V DC on the OUTPUT terminals the power
supply is faulty and should be replaced. Check
for possible short circuits in the 24V DC wiring that
may have caused the power supply to fail.

• If there is not 115V AC on INPUT terminals check
for power at the Control Power Switch.

Fuses:

#1 Fuse. Control Circuit 2.5 Amp fuse:

• Remove the fuse from the fuse holder and check for
continuity across the fuse. If there is not continuity
the fuse has blown and should be replaced. Check
for possible causes such as a short circuit in the
wiring.

• If there is continuity across the fuse check for 24V
DC power in the input lead to the fuse holder. If
there is power there then check the fuse holder to
be sure the fuse is seating properly.

• If there is not 24V DC power on the input lead to
the fuse holder, check for power at the Control
Power Supply.

#2 Fuse. Fan Motor Fuse - 2 Amp Slow Blow
(G100/200) or 15 Amp Fast Acting (G400) fuse:

• Remove the fuse from the fuse holder and check for
continuity across the fuse. If there is not continuity
the fuse has blown and should be replaced. Check
for possible causes such as a short circuit in the
wiring or a blockage in the fan that may have
stalled the fan motor.

• If there is continuity across the fuse check for 115V
AC power in the input lead to the fuse holder. If

there is power there then check the fuse holder to
be sure the fuse is seating properly.

• If there is not 115V AC power on the input lead
to the fuse holder, check for power at the Control
Power Supply.

Siemens LOGO Control: (with display)

Using an electrical testing meter check for 24V DC
power across the “L+” and “M-“ terminals.

• If there is 24V DC power at the terminals but the
display remains blank the control is faulty and
should be replaced.

• If there is not 24V DC power at the terminals, check
for power output at the power supply.

Low Water Cut Off Switch:

Check to be sure there is enough water in the tank
of the furnace by removing the float assembly and
looking in the fill pipe.

If the water level is low add enough to raise the water
level so the float level shows full.

If the water level is full and the Low Water Alarm is
flashing on the screen you will need to test the low
water switch.

Using an electrical testing meter check for voltage
across the “M-“ and “I1” terminals on the Siemens
control. If the low water switch is satisfied (closed)
there should be 24V DC.

• If there is not voltage, power off the furnace, isolate
the low water switch from the control and the
wiring, then check for continuity across the switch.

• If the switch has continuity, re-install the wires in
their original positions and power up the furnace.
The Low Water Alarm should disappear from the
screen.

• If the switch does not have continuity, drain the
furnace enough so that the water level is below the
low water switch and inspect the switch. If it is dirty
it may be cleaned up, tested and re-installed. If it
is faulty it should be replaced.

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26

Cold Start Button:

The cold start button will override the low temperature
cut off feature of this furnace. It should be pressed
once to allow the furnace to operate when in a cold
start situation.

If the screen is flashing “Low Temperature Alarm”
and the Cold Start Button is depressed, the alarm
should be replaced with “Cold Start Override”. This
message will flash until the furnace has heated past
it’s programmed cut in temperature.

• If the button is depressed and the “Low
Temperature Alarm” continues the circuit should be
tested using an electrical testing meter. Check for
voltage between the “M-“ and “I3” terminals on
the Siemens control when the button is DEPRESSED.
There should be 24V DC across those terminals
only when the button is depressed.

• If there is no power present, isolate the switch from
the control and wiring and check for continuity
across the switch. There should be continuity only
when the button is depressed. If not, the button is
faulty and should be replaced.

Damper Actuator:

The “mode” selector should be set to mode 5.

To test for proper operation the furnace should be
powered on and calling for heat. The display should
indicate the Air Damper %. In this state you may test
for power across terminals 1 & 2 on the actuator.
There should be 24V DC across those terminals.

• If there is no power across terminals 1 & 2 then
check that there is power at the Siemens control.
If there is no power at the control check the #1
fuse and replace if necessary. When the control
is opening the damper there should be 24V DC
across terminals 2 and 3 on the actuator. When
the control is closing the damper there should be
power across terminals 2 and 4 on the actuator.
When the control is holding a steady position
there should only be power across terminals 1
and 2. The actuator position can be confirmed by
testing the DC voltage across terminals 2 and 5
on the actuator. It should be between 2 and 10V
DC depending on the position of the actuator. If
the damper plate is stuck or frozen to back plate,
pry them apart. This should break them loose and
the actuator should move freely. If the plates were
stuck they should be removed and cleaned.

• If the plates are not stuck or frozen and there is
power and communication the actuator is faulty
and should be replaced.

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G100s and G200s Electrical Schematic

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28

G400s Electrical Schematic

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heatmasterss.com 29

Instructions for Editing Control Settings

To edit temperature, differential, timer and low
temperature cut off settings follow these instructions:

• To access the programming press the down arrow
repeatedly until the programming screen appears.

Note: If the Low Temperature Alarm is on, DO NOT

push the cold start button.

• Use the up and down arrow keys to toggle
between settings screens.

• To edit the settings on the screen press and hold
the “esc” key until the first value is highlighted.

• Use the up/down arrow keys to toggle to different
settings on the screen.

• Press the OK button to adjust the highlighted
setting.

• Use the left/right arrows keys to navigate to the
appropriate character.

• Use the up/down arrow keys to adjust the value of
the character.

Note: The values are always in minutes or degrees

Fahrenheit. And always “+” positive value.

• Press the “OK” key to save your changes and
adjust other settings.

• Press the “esc” key to be able to toggle between
screens.

• Press the “UP” arrow repeatedly to return to the run
screen.

The following screens will be available to edit:

Temperature Settings

• The Set Temp Function controls how hot the water
in the water jacket is heated to.

• The Differential controls how many degrees the
water will lose before the furnace turns on to heat
the water.

Timer Settings

• The Timer settings are designed to help keep the
coal bed alive in the firebox during periods of idle.

• The On Delay controls how many minutes the
furnace will idle before turning the fan on.

• On Time controls how many minutes the furnace
will burn for when the Timer function is activated.

• Off Time controls how many minutes before the
next Timer function is activated.

Note: This only activates after the furnace

completes a burn cycle and brings the furnace up
to temperature. If the furnace is required to turn on
because the water temperature has fallen below
the differential setting, the Timer Settings will reset
to the On Delay timer.

Low Temperature Shut Down

There is a low temperature function programmed in
to the control to shut the furnace down if the water
temperature falls below the temperature set in the
programming. This is done to preserve the heat in the
water if the furnace has stopped burning.

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heatmasterss.com 31

HeatMasterSS carries a full line of high quality parts

for your furnace including pumps, fittings and heat
exchangers. For more information on our parts or
to arrange product installation please contact your
local HeatMasterSS dealer.

HeatMaster

SS

Box 158
Winkler, Manitoba, Canada
R6W 4A5
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
Toll Free: 1-877-325-9792
Email: [e-mail]

heatmasterss.com

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