Harley Davidson Sportster 2004-2006 Repair Manual

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CHAPTER ONE

GENERAL INFORMATION

This detailed and comprehensive manual covers 2004-2006 Harley-Davidson XL Sportster models. The text provides complete information on maintenance, tune-up, repair and overhaul. Hundreds of photographs and illustrations created during the complete disassembly of the motorcycle guide the reader through every job. All procedures are in step-by-step format and designed for the reader who may be working on the motorcycle for the first time.

MANUAL ORGANIZATION

A shop manual is a tool and, as in all Service manuals, the

chapters are thumb tabbed for easy reference. Main headings are listed in the table of contents and the index. Frequently used specifications and capacities from the tables at the end of each individual chapter are listed in the Quick Reference Data section at the front of the manual. Specifications and capacities are provided in U.S. standard and metric units of measure.

During some of the procedures there will be references to headings in other chapters or sections of the manual. When a specific heading is called out in a step it will be italicized as it appears in the manual. If a sub-heading is indicated as being “in this section” it is located within the same main heading. For example, the sub-heading Han

dling Gasoline Safely is located within the main heading SAFETY.

This chapter provides general information on shop safety, tools and their usage, service fundamentals and shop supplies.

Tables 1-10 are located at the end of this chapter.

Table 1 lists motorcycle dimensions.

Table 2 lists motorcycle weight.

Table 3 lists fuel tank capacity.

Table 4 lists general torque specifications.

Table 5 lists conversion formulas.

Table 6 lists technical abbreviations.

Table 7 lists U.S. tap and drill sizes.

Table 8 lists metric tap and drill sizes.

Table 9 lists fraction, decimal and metric equivalents.

Table 10 lists special tools.

Chapter Two provides methods for quick and accurate diagnosis of problems. Troubleshooting procedures present typical symptoms and logical methods to pinpoint and repair the problem.

Chapter Three explains all routine maintenance necessary to keep the motorcycle running well. Chapter Three also includes recommended tune-up procedures.

Subsequent chapters describe specific systems such as engine, transmission, clutch, drive system, fuel and ex haust systems, suspension and brakes.

2 CHAPTER ONE

WARNINGS, CAUTIONS AND NOTES

The terms, WARNING, CAUTION and NOTE have

specific meanings in this manual.

A WARNING emphasizes areas where injury or even death could result from negligence. Mechanical damage may also occur. WARNINGS are to be taken seriously.

A CAUTION emphasizes areas where equipment damage could result. Disregarding a CAUTION could cause permanent mechanical damage, though injury is unlikely.

A NOTE provides additional information to make a step or procedure easier or clearer. Disregarding a NOTE could cause inconvenience, but would not cause equipment damage or injury.

13. Always have an approved fire extinguisher available. Make sure it is rated for gasoline (Class B) and electrical

SAFETY

(Class C) fires.

14. Do not use compressed air to clean clothes, the mo-

Professional mechanics can work for years and never sustain a serious injury or mishap. Follow these guidelines and practice common sense to safely service the motorcycle.

1. Do not operate the motorcycle in an enclosed area. The exhaust gasses contain carbon monoxide, an odorless, colorless, and tasteless poisonous gas. Carbon monoxide levels build quickly in small enclosed areas and can cause unconsciousness and death in a short time. Make sure to ventilate the work area properly or to operate the motorcycle outside.

2. Never use gasoline or any extremely flammable liquid to clean parts. Refer to Handling Gasoline Safely and Cleaning Parts in this secition.

3. Never smoke or use a torch in the vicinity of flammable liquids, such as gasoline or cleaning solvent.

4. If welding or brazing on the motorcycle, remove the fuel tank, carburetor and shocks to a safe distance at least

torcycle or the work area. Debris may be blown into the eyes or skin. Never direct compressed air at anyone. Do not allow children to use or play with any compressed air equipment.

15. When using compressed air to dry rotating parts, hold the part so it cannot rotate. Do not allow the force of the air to spin the part. The air jet iscapableof rotating parts at extreme speed. The part may be damaged or disintegrate, causing serious injury.

16. Do not inhale the dust created by brake pad and clutch wear. These particles may contain asbestos. In addition, sometypes of insulating materials and gaskets may contain asbestos. Inhaling asbestos particles is hazardous to health.

17. Never work on the motorcycle while someone is working under it.

18. When placing the motorcycle on a stand, make sure it is secure before walking away.

50 ft. (15 m) away.

5. Use the correct type and size of tools to avoid damaging fasteners.

6. Keep tools clean and in good condition. Replace or repair worn or damaged equipment.

7. When loosening a tight fastener, be guided by what would happen if the tool slips.

8. When replacing fasteners, make sure the new fasteners are the same size and strength as the original ones.

9. Keep the work area clean and organized.

10. Wear eye protection anytime the safety of the eyes is in question. This includes procedures involving drilling, grinding, hammering, compressed air and chemicals.

11. Wear the correct clothing for the job. Tie up or cover long hair so it can not get caught in moving equipment.

12. Do not carry sharp tools in clothing pockets.

Handling Gasoline Safely

Gasoline is a volatile flammable liquid and is one of the most dangerous items in the shop. Because gasoline is used so often, many people forget that it is hazardous. Only use gasoline as fuel for gasoline internal combustion engines. Keep in mind, when working on a motorcycle, gasoline is always present in the fuel tank, fuel line and carburetor. To avoid an accident when working around the fuel system, carefully observe the following precautions:

1. Never use gasoline to clean parts. See Cleaning Parts in this section.

2. When working on the fuel system, work outside or in a well-ventilated area.

GENERAL INFORMATION 3

2. Do not use more than one type of cleaning solvent at a

3. Do not add fuel to the fuel tank or service the fuel system while the motorcycle is near open flames, sparks or where someone is smoking. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It collects in low areas and is more easily ignited than liquid gasoline.

4. Allow the engine to cool completely before working on any fuel system component.

5. When draining the carburetor, catch the fuel in a plastic container and then pour it into an approved gasoline storage devise.

6. Do not store gasoline in glass containers. If the glass breaks, an explosion or fire may occur.

7. Immediately wipe up spilled gasoline with rags. Store the rags in a metal container with a lid until they can be properly disposed of, or place them outside in a safe place for the fuel to evaporate.

8. Do not pour water onto a gasoline fire. Water spreads the fire and makes it more difficult to put out. Use a class B, BC or ABC fire extinguisher to extinguish the fire.

9. Always turn off the engine before refueling. Do not spill fuel onto the engine or exhaust system. Do not overfill the fuel tank. Leave an air space at the top of the tank to allow room for the fuel to expand due to temperature fluctuations.

Cleaning Parts

Cleaning parts is one of the more tedious and difficult service jobs performed in the home garage. There are many types of chemical cleaners and solvents available for shop use. Most are poisonous and extremely flammable. To prevent chemical exposure, vapor buildup, fire and injury, observe each product warning label and note the following:

1. Read and observe the entire product label before using any chemical. Always know what type of chemical is be ing used and whether it is poisonous and/or flammable.

time. If mixing chemicalsis called for, measure the proper amounts according to the manufacturer.

3. Work in a well-ventilated area.

4. Wear chemical-resistant gloves.

5. Wear safety glasses.

6. Wear a vapor respirator if the instructions call for it.

7. Wash hands and arms thoroughly after cleaning parts.

8. Keep chemical products away from children and pets.

9. Thoroughly clean all oil, grease and cleaner residue from any part that must be heated.

10. Use a nylon brush when cleaning parts. Metal brushes may cause a spark.

11. When using a parts washer, only use the solvent recommended by the manufacturer. Make sure the parts washer is equipped with a metal lid that will lower in case of fire.

Warning Labels

Most manufacturers attach information and warning labels to the motorcycle. These labels contain instructions that are important to personal safety when operating, servicing, transporting and storing the motorcycle. Refer to the owner’s manual for the description and location of labels. Order replacement labels from the manufacturer if they are missing or damaged.

SERIAL NUMBERS

Serial numbers are stamped on various locations on the frame, engine and carburetor. Record these numbers in the Quick Reference Data section in the front of the manual. Have these numbers available when ordering parts.

The VIN number is stamped on the right side of the

steering head (A, Figure 1). The VIN number also ap-

pears on a label affixed to the right, front frame downtube

(B, Figure 1).

The engine serial number is stamped on a pad at the left

side surface of the crankcase between the cylinders (Fig- ure2). The engine serial number consists of digits used in

the VIN number.

The carburetor serial number (Figure3) is located adja-

cent to the accelerator pump linkage.

FASTENERS

WARNING Do not install fasteners with a strength clas sification lower than what was originally in-

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4 CHAPTER ONE

stalled by the manufacturer. Doing so may cause equipment failure and/or damage.

Proper fastener selection and installation is important to ensure that the motorcycle operates as designed and can be serviced efficiently. The choice of original equipment fasteners is not arrived at by chance. Make sure replacement fasteners meet all the same requirements as the originals.

Threaded Fasteners

To ensure that the fastener threads are not mismatched or cross-threaded, start all fasteners by hand. If a fastener is hard to start or turn, determine the cause before tightening with a wrench.

CAUTION

Threaded fasteners secure most of the components on the motorcycle. Most are tightened by turning them clockwise (right-hand threads). If the normal rotation of the component being tightened would loosen the fastener, it may have left-hand threads. If a left-hand threaded fas- tener is used, it is noted in the text.

Two dimensions are required to match the thread size of the fastener: the number of threads in a given distance and the outside diameter of the threads.

Two systems are currently used to specify threaded fastener dimensions: the U.S. Standard system and the metric

system (Figure 4). Pay particular attention when working

with unidentified fasteners; mismatching thread types can damage threads.

Match fasteners by their length (L, Figure 5), diameter

(D) and distance between thread crests (pitch) (T). A typical metric bolt may be identified by the numbers, 8—1.25 × 130. This indicates the bolt has a diameter of 8 mm, the distance between thread crests is 1.25 mm and the length is 130 mm. Always measure bolt length as shown in L,

Figure 5 to avoid installing replacements of the wrong

length.

The numbers located on the top of the fastener (A, Fig- ure 5) indicate the strength grade of metric screws and

bolts. The higher the number, the stronger the fastener is. Typically, unnumbered fasteners are the weakest.

Refer to Table 4 for SAE fastener classification.

Many screws, bolts and studs are combined with nuts to secure particular components. To indicate the size of a nut, manufacturers specify the internal diameter and the thread pitch.

The measurement across two flats on a nut or bolt indi cates the wrench size.

U.S. Standard Metric

60!

Torque Specifications

The materials used in the manufacture of the motorcycle may be subjected to uneven stresses if the fasteners of the various subassemblies are not installed and tightened correctly. Fasteners that are improperly installed or work loose can cause damage. It is essential to use an accurate torque wrench, described in this chapter, with the torque specifications in this manual.

Specifications for torque are provided in foot-pounds (ft.-lb.), inch-pounds (in.-lb.) and Newton-meters (N•m).

Refer to Table4 for general torque specifications. To use Table 4, first determine the size of the fastener as de

scribed in this section. Torque specifications for specific

components are at the end of the appropriate chapters. Torque wrenches are covered in the Tools section.

GENERAL INFORMATION 5

Washers

There are two basic types of washers: flat washers and lockwashers. Flat washers are simple discs with a hole to

fit a screw or bolt. Lockwashers are used to prevent a fastener from working loose. Washers can be used as spacers

-9.8

and seals, or to help distribute fastener load and to prevent the fastener from damaging the component.

As with fasteners, when replacing washers make sure the replacement washers are of the same design and quality.

Cotter Pins

A cotter pin is a split metal pin inserted into a hole or

slot to prevent a fastener from loosening. In certain applications, such as the rear axle on an ATV or motorcycle, the fastener must be secured in this way. For these applications, a cotter pin and castellated (slotted) nut are used.

To use a cotter pin, first make sure the diameter is correct for the hole in the fastener. After correctly tightening the fastener and aligning the holes, insert the cotter pin

through the hole and bend the ends over the fastener (Fig- ure 6). Unless instructed to do so, never loosen a tight-

ened fastener to align the holes. If the holes do not align, tighten the fastener just enough to achieve alignment.

Cotter pins are available in various diameters and

lengths (Figure6). Measure length from the bottom of the

head to the tip of the shortest pin.

Self-Locking Fasteners

Several types of bolts, screws and nuts incorporate a system that creates interference between two fasteners. Interference is achieved in various ways. The most common type is the nylon insert nut and a dry adhesive coating on the threads of a bolt.

Self-locking fasteners offer greater holding strength than standard fasteners, which improves their resistance to vibration. Most self-locking fasteners should not be reused. The materials used to form the lock become distorted after the initial installation and removal. It is a good practice to discard and replace self-locking fasteners after their removal. Do not replace self-locking fasteners with standard fasteners.

Snap Rings and E-clips

Snap rings (Figure7) are circular-shaped metal retain-

ing clips. They are required to secure parts and gears in place on parts such as shafts, pins or rods. External type snap rings are used to retain items on shafts. Internal type snap rings secure parts within housing bores. In some applications, in addition to securing the component(s), snap rings of varying thickness also determine endplay. These are usually called selective snap rings.

Two basic types of snap rings are used: machined and

stamped snap rings. Machined snap rings (Figure 8) can

be installed in either direction, since both faces have sharp

edges. Stamped snap rings (Figure 9) are manufactured

with a sharp edge and a round edge. When installing a stamped snap ring in a thrust application, install the sharp edge facing away from the part producing the thrust.

E-clips are used when it is not practical to use a snap ring. Remove E-clips with a flat blade screwdriver by prying between the shaft and E-clip. To install an E-clip, cen ter it over the shaft groove and push or tap it into place.

Observe the following when installing snap rings:

6 CHAPTER ONE

1. Remove and install snap rings with snap ring pliers. Refer to Snap Ring Pliers in this chapter.

2. In some applications, it may be necessary to replace snap rings after removing them.

3. Compress or expand snap rings only enough to install them. If overly expanded, they lose their retaining ability.

4. After installing a snap ring, make sure it seats completely.

5. Wear eye protection when removing and installing

Internal snap ring Plain circlip

snap rings.

SHOP SUPPLIES

Lubricants and Fluids

Periodic lubrication helps ensure a long service life for any type of equipment. Use the correct type of lubricant when performing lubrication service. The following section describes the types of lubricants most often required. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for lubricant types.

Engine oils

Engine oil is classified by two standards: the American Petroleum Institute (API) service classification and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) viscosity rating. This information is on the oil container label. Two letters indicate the API service classification. The number or sequence of numbers and letter (10W-40 for example) is the oil’s viscosity rating. The API service classification and the SAE viscosity index are not indications of oil quality.

The service classification indicates that the oil meets specific lubrication standards. The first letter in the classification S indicates that the oil is for gasoline engines. The second letter indicates the standard the oil satisfies.

Viscosity is an indication of the oil’s thickness. Thin oils have a lower number while thick oils have a higher number. Engine oils fall into the 5- to 50-weight range for single-grade oils.

Most manufacturers recommend multi-grade oil. These oils perform efficiently across a wide range of operating conditions. Multi-grade oils are identified by a W after the first number, which indicates the low-temperature viscosity.

Engine oils are most commonly mineral (petroleum) based; however, synthetic and semi-synthetic types are used more frequently.

When selecting engine oil, follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for type, classification and viscosity. Using a non-recommended oil can cause engine, clutch and/or transmission damage. Carefully consider if an oil

External snap ring E-clip

Direction

of thrust

Full support

areas

designed for automobile applications is compatible with motorcycles.

Greases

Grease is lubricating oil with thickening agents added to it. The National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) grades grease. Grades range from No. 000 to No. 6, with No. 6 being the thickest. Typical multipurpose grease is NLGI No. 2. For specific applications, manufacturers may recommend water-resistant type grease or one with an additive such as molybdenum disulfide (MoS

Brake fluid

WARNING Never put a mineral-based (petroleum) oil into the brake system. Mineral oil will cause

GENERAL INFORMATION 7

Rounded edges Sharp edges

Direction of thrust

rubber parts in the system to swell and break apart, causing complete brake failure.

Brake fluid is the hydraulic fluid used to transmit hydraulic pressure (force) to the wheel brakes. Brake fluid is classified by the Department of Transportation (DOT). Current designations for brake fluid are DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5. This classification appears on the fluid container.

Each type of brake fluid has its own definite characteristics. Do not intermix different types of brake fluid as this may cause brake system failure. DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based and the type required for XL sportsters. Other types are not compatible with DOT 5 brake fluid. When adding brake fluid, only use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer (DOT 5).

Brake fluid will damage any plastic, painted or plated surface it contacts. Use extreme care when working with brake fluid and remove any spills immediately with soap and water.

Hydraulic brake systems require clean and moisture free brake fluid. Never reuse brake fluid. Keep containers and reservoirs properly sealed.

Cleaners, Degreasers and Solvents

Many chemicals are available to remove oil, grease and other residue from the motorcycle. Before using cleaning solvents, consider how they will be used and disposed of, particularly if they are not water-soluble. Local ordinances may require special procedures for the disposal of many types of cleaning chemicals. Refer to Safety and Cleaning Parts in this chapter for more information on their use.

Use brake parts cleaner to clean brake system compo nents when contact with petroleum-based products will damage seals. Brake parts cleaner leaves no residue. Use electrical contact cleaner to clean electrical connections and components without leaving any residue. Carburetor cleaner is a powerful solvent used to remove fuel deposits and varnish from fuel system components. Use this cleaner carefully, as it may damage finishes.

Generally, degreasers are strong cleaners used to remove heavy accumulations of grease from engine and frame components.

Most solvents are designed to be used with a parts washing cabinet for individual component cleaning. For safety, use only nonflammable or high flash point solvents.

Gasket Sealant

Sealants are sometimes used in combination with a gasket or seal and occasionally alone. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation when using sealants. Use extreme care when choosing a sealant different from the type originally recommended. Choose sealants based on their resistance to heat, various fluids and their sealing capabilities.

One of the most common sealants is RTV, or room temperature vulcanizing sealant. This sealant cures at room temperature over a specific time period. This allows the repositioning of components without damaging gaskets.

Moisture in the air causes the RTV sealant to cure. Always install the tube cap as soon as possible after applying RTV sealant. RTV sealant has a limited shelf life and will not cure properly if the shelf life has expired. Keep partial tubes sealed and discard them if they have surpassed the expiration date.

Applying RTV sealant

Clean all old gasket residue from the mating surfaces. Remove all gasket material from blind threaded holes; it can cause inaccurate bolt torque. Spray the mating surfaces with aerosol parts cleaner and then wipe with a lint-free cloth. The area must be clean for the sealant to adhere.

Apply RTV sealant in a continuous bead 0.08-0.12 in. (2-3 mm) thick. Circle all the fastener holes unless otherwise specified. Do not allow any sealant to enter these holes. Assemble and tighten the fasteners to the specified torque within the time frame recommended by the RTV sealant manufacturer.

8 CHAPTER ONE

Gasket Remover

Aerosol gasket remover can help remove stubborn gaskets. This product can speed up the removal process and prevent damage to the mating surface that may be caused by using a scraping tool. Most of these types of products are very caustic. Follow the gasket remover manufacturer’s instructions for use.

Threadlocking Compound

CAUTION Threadlocking compounds are anaerobic and damage most plastic parts and surfaces. Use caution when using these products in areas where plastic components are located.

A threadlocking compound is a fluid applied to the threads of fasteners. After tightening the fastener, the fluid dries and becomes a solid filler between the threads. This makes it difficult for the fastener to work loose from vibration, or heat expansion and contraction. Some threadlocking compounds also provide a seal against fluid leaks.

Before applying threadlocking compound, remove any old compound from both thread areas and clean them with aerosol parts cleaner. Use the compound sparingly. Excess fluid can run into adjoining parts.

Threadlocking compounds are available in different strengths. Follow the particular manufacturer’s recommendations regarding compound selection.

TOOLS

Most of the procedures in this manual can be carried out with familiar hand tools and test equipment. Always use the correct tools for the job at hand. Keep tools organized and clean. Store them in a tool chest with related tools organized together.

Quality tools are essential. The best are constructed of high-strength alloy steel. These tools are light, easy to use and resistant to wear. Their working surface is devoid of sharp edges and the tool is carefully polished. They have an easy-to-clean finish and are comfortable to use. Quality tools are a good investment.

When purchasing tools to perform the procedures covered in this manual, consider the tool’s potential frequency of use. If a tool kit is just now being started, consider purchasing a basic tool set from a quality tool supplier. These sets are available in many tool combina tions and offer substantial savings when compared to in

dividually purchased tools. As work experience grows and tasks become more complicated, specialized tools can be added.

Some of the procedures described in this manual require specialized tools and/or equipment. In most cases, the tool is described in use. In some cases a substitute tool may work. However, do not risk injury or damage to the equipment by using the incorrect tool. If the required tools are expensive it may be more cost effective to have the task performed by a dealership or qualified shop.

The manufacturer’s part number is provided for many of the tools mentioned in this manual. These part numbers are correct at the time of original publication. The publisher cannot guarantee the part numbers or tools listed in this manual will be available in the future.

Screwdrivers

Screwdrivers of various lengths and types are manda tory for the simplest tool kit. The two basic types are the

GENERAL INFORMATION 9

to be removed and reinstalled without moving the handle

over such a wide arc.

An open-end wrench is fast and works best in areas with limited overhead access. It contacts the fastener at only two points, and is subject to slipping under heavy force, or if the tool or fastener is worn. A box-end wrench is preferred in most instances, especially when breaking loose and applying the final tightness to a fastener.

The combination wrench has a box-end on one end, and an open-end on the other. This combination makes it a very convenient tool.

Adjustable Wrenches

slotted tip (flat blade) and the Phillips tip. These are available in sets that often include an assortment of tip sizes and shaft lengths.

As with all tools, use a screwdriver designed for the job. Make sure the size of the tip conforms to the size and shape of the fastener. Use them only for driving screws. Never use a screwdriver for prying or chiseling metal. Repair or replace worn or damaged screwdrivers. A worn tip may damage the fastener, making it difficult to remove.

Wrenches

Open-end, box-end and combination wrenches (Figure

10) are available in a variety of types and sizes.

The number stamped on the wrench refers to the distance between the work areas. This size must match the size of the fastener head.

The box-end wrench is an excellent tool because it grips the fastener on all sides. This reduces the chance of the tool slipping. The box-end wrench is designed with either a 6- or 12-point opening. For stubborn or damaged fasteners, the 6-point provides superior holding ability by con tacting the fastener across a wider area at all six edges. For general use, the 12-point works well. It allows the wrench

An adjustable wrench or Crescent wrench (Figure 11)

can fit nearly any nut or bolt head that has clear access around its entire perimeter. Adjustable wrenches are best used as a backup wrench to keep a large nut or bolt from turning while the other end is being loosened or tightened with a box-end or socket wrench.

Adjustable wrenches contact the fastener at only two points, which makes them more subject to slipping off the fastener. The fact that one jaw is adjustable and may loosen increases this possibility. Make certain the solid jaw is the one transmitting the force.

Socket Wrenches, Ratchets and Handles

Sockets that attach to a ratchet handle (Figure 12) are available with 6-point (A, Figure 13) or 12-point (B)

openings and different drive sizes. The drive size indicates the size of the square hole that accepts the ratchet handle. The number stamped on the socket is the size of the work area and must match the fastener head.

As with wrenches, a 6-point socket provides superior-holding ability, while a 12-point socket needs to be moved only half as far to reposition it on the fastener.

WARNING Do not use hand sockets with air or impact tools, as they may shatter and cause injury. Always wear eye protection when using impact or air tools.

Sockets are designated for either hand or impact use. Impact sockets are made of thicker material for more durability. Compare the size and wall thickness of a 19-mm

hand socket (A, Figure 14) and the 19-mm impact socket

(B). Use impact sockets when using an impact driver or

air tools. Use hand sockets with hand-driven attachments.

Various handles are available for sockets. The speed handle is used for fast operation. Flexible ratchet heads in

10 CHAPTER ONE

varying lengths allow the socket to be turned with varying force, and at odd angles. Extension bars allow the socket setup to reach difficult areas. The ratchet is the most versatile. It allows the user to install or remove the nut without removing the socket.

Sockets combined with any number of drivers make them undoubtedly the fastest, safest and most convenient tool for fastener removal and installation.

Impact Driver

WARNING Do not use hand sockets with air or impact tools as they may shatter and cause injury. Always wear eye protection when using impact or air tools.

An impact driver provides extra force for removing fasteners, by converting the impact of a hammer into a turning motion. This makes it possible to remove stubborn fasteners without damaging them. Impact drivers and in-

terchangeable bits (Figure 15) are available from most

tool suppliers. When using a socket with an impact driver make sure the socket is designed for impact use. Refer to Socket Wrenches, Ratchets and Handles in this section.

Allen Wrenches

Allen or setscrew wrenches (Figure 16) are used on

fasteners with hexagonal recesses in the fastener head. These wrenches are available in L-shaped bar, socket and T-handle types. Allen bolts are sometimes called socket bolts.

Torque Wrenches

A torque wrench is used with a socket, torque adapter or similar extension to tighten a fastener to a measured torque. Torque wrenches come in several drive sizes (1/4,

GENERAL INFORMATION 11

L + A = Effective lever length

L = Effective lever length

No calculation needed

3/8, 1/2 and 3/4) and have various methods of reading the torque value. The drive size indicates the size of the square drive that accepts the socket, adapter or extension. Common methods of reading the torque value are the deflecting beam, the dial indicator and the audible click

(Figure 17).

When choosing a torque wrench, consider the torque range, drive size and accuracy. The torque specifications in this manual provide an indication of the range required.

A torque wrench is a precision tool that must be properly cared for to remain accurate. Store torque wrenches in cases or separate padded drawers within a toolbox. Fol

low the manufacturer’s instructions for their care and calibration.

Torque Adapters

Torque adapters or extensions extend or reduce the

reach of a torque wrench. The torque adapter shown in

Figure 18 is used to tighten a fastener that cannot be

reached due to the size of the torque wrench head, drive, and socket. If a torque adapter changes the effective lever

length (Figure 19), the torque reading on the wrench will

not equal the actual torque applied to the fastener. It is

12 CHAPTER ONE

necessary to recalibrate the torque setting on the wrench to compensate for the change of lever length. When a torque adapter is used at a right angle to the drive head, calibration is not required, since the lever length has not changed.

To recalculate a torque reading when using a torque

adapter, use the following formula, and refer to Figure

19.

TW = TA ×L

L + A

TW is the torque setting or dial reading on the wrench.

TA is the torque specification and the actual amount of

torque that will be applied to the fastener.

A is the amount that the adapter increases (or in some cases reduces) the effective lever length as measured

along the centerline of the torque wrench (Figure 19).

L is the lever length of the wrench as measured from the center of the drive to the center of the grip.

The effective lever length is the sum of L and A (Figure

19).

Example:

TA = 20 ft.-lb.

A = 3 in.

L = 14 in.

TW = 20 × 14 = 280 = 16.5 ft. lb.

14 + 3 = 17

In this example, the torque wrench would be set to the recalculated torque value (TW = 16.5 ft.-lb.) . When using a beam-type wrench, tighten the fastener until the pointer aligns with 16.5 ft.-lb. In this example, although the torque wrench is preset to 16.5 ft.-lb., the actual torque is 20 ft.-lb.

Pliers

Pliers come in a wide range of types and sizes. Pliers are useful for holding, cutting, bending, and crimping. Do not

use them to turn fasteners. Figure 20 and Figure 21 show

several types of useful pliers. Each design has a specialized function. Slip-joint pliers are general-purpose pliers used for gripping and bending. Diagonal cutting pliers are needed to cut wire and can be used to remove cotter pins. Needlenose pliers are used to hold or bend small objects.

Locking pliers (Figure 21), sometimes called Vise-Grips,

are used to hold objects very tightly. They have many uses ranging from holding two parts together, to gripping the end of a broken stud. Use caution when using locking pli ers, as the sharp jaws will damage the objects they hold.

Snap Ring Pliers

WARNING Snap rings can slip and fly off when removing and installing them. Also, the snap ring plier tips may break. Always wear eye protection when using snap ring pliers.

Snap ring pliers are specialized pliers with tips that fit

into the ends of snap rings to remove and install them.

Snap ring pliers are available with a fixed action (either internal or external) or convertible (one tool works on both internal and external snap rings). They may have fixed tips or interchangeable ones of various sizes and an

gles. For general use, select a convertible type of pliers with interchangeable tips.

GENERAL INFORMATION 13

without damaging it. Never use a metal-faced hammer on

engine and suspension components, as damage will occur in most cases.

MEASURING TOOLS

The ability to accurately measure components is essential to many of the procedures in this manual. Equipment is manufactured to close tolerances, and obtaining consistently accurate measurements is required to determine which components need replacement or further service.

Each type of measuring instrument is designed to measure a dimension with a certain degree of accuracy and within a certain range. When selecting the measuring tool,

make sure it is applicable to the task. Refer to Figure 23

for a comprehensive measuring set.

As with all tools, measuring tools provide the best results if cared for properly. Improper use can damage the tool and cause inaccurate results. If any measurement is questionable, verify the measurement using another tool. A standard gauge is usually provided with measuring tools to check accuracy and calibrate the tool if necessary.

Precision measurements can vary according to the experience of the person performing the procedure. Accurate results are only possible if the mechanic possesses a feel for using the tool. Heavy-handed use of measuring tools will produce less accurate results. Hold the tool gently by the fingertips so the point at which the tool contacts the object is easily felt. This feel for the equipment will produce more accurate measurements and reduce the risk of damaging the tool or component. Refer to the following sections for specific measuring tools.

Hammers

WARNING Wear eye protection when using hammers. Make sure the hammer face is in good condition and the handle is not cracked. Select the correct hammer for the job and make sure to strike the object squarely. Do not use the handle or the side of the hammer to strike an object.

Various types of hammers (Figure 22) are available to

fit a number of applications. A ball-peen hammer is used to strike another tool, such as a punch or chisel. Soft-faced hammers are required when a metal object must be struck

Feeler Gauge

The feeler or thickness gauge (Figure 24) is used for

measuring the distance between two surfaces.

A feeler gauge set consists of an assortment of steel strips of graduated thickness. Each blade is marked with its thickness. Blades can be of various lengths and angles for different procedures.

A common use for a feeler gauge is to measure valve clearance. Wire (round) type gauges are used to measure spark plug gap.

Calipers

Calipers (Figure 25) are used for obtaining inside, out

side and depth measurements. Although not as precise as a micrometer, they typically allow measurement to within

14 CHAPTER ONE

10.00 mm

10.50 mm

0.400 in.

0.013 in.

0.413 in.

0.50 mm

Fixed scale

Movable scale

0.05 mm (0.001 in.). Most calipers have a range up to150 mm (6 in.).

Calipers are available in dial, vernier or digital versions. Dial calipers have a dial readout that provides convenient reading. Vernier calipers have marked scales that must be compared to determine the measurement. The digital caliper uses a LCD to show the measurement.

Properly maintain the measuring surfaces of the caliper. There must not be any dirt or burrs between the tool and the measured object. Never force the caliper closed around an object; close the caliper around the highest point so it can be removed with a slight drag. Some calipers require calibration. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions when using a new or unfamiliar caliper.

To read a vernier caliper refer to Figure 26. The fixed

scale is marked in 1 mm increments. Ten individual lines on the fixed scale equal 1 cm. The movable scale is marked in 0.05 mm (hundredth) increments. To obtain a reading, establish the first number by the location of the 0 line on the movable scale in relation to the first line to the left on the fixed scale. In this example, the number is 10 mm. To determine the next number, note which of the lines on the movable scale align with a mark on the fixed scale. Anumber of lines will seem close, but only one will align exactly. In this case, 0.50 mm is the reading to add to

the first number. The result of adding 10 mm and 0.50 mm is a measurement of 10.50 mm.

Micrometers

A micrometer is an instrument designed for linear mea-

surement using the decimal divisions of the inch or meter

(Figure 27). While there are many types and styles of mi-

crometers, most of the procedures in this manual call for an outside micrometer. The outside micrometer is used to measure the outside diameter of cylindrical forms and the thickness of materials.

A micrometer’s size indicates the minimum and maxi-

mum size of a part that it can measure. The usual sizes

(Figure 28) are 0-1 in. (0-25 mm), 1-2 in. (25-50 mm),

2-3 in. (50-75 mm) and 3-4 in. (75-100 mm).

Micrometers that cover a wider range of measurements are available. These use a large frame with interchangeable anvils of various lengths. This type of micrometer offers a cost savings; however, its overall size may make it less convenient.

Adjustment

Before using a micrometer, check its adjustment as fol lows.

GENERAL INFORMATION 15

0.1 Indicates 1/10 (one tenth of an inch

0.010 Indicates 1/100 (one one-hundreth of

0.001 Indicates 1/1000 (one one-thousandth

*This chart represents the values of figures placed to the right of the decimal point.Use it when reading

decimals from one-tenth to one one-thousandth of an inch or millimeter. It is not a conversion chart (for example:0.001 in. is not equal to 0.001 mm).

DECIMAL PLACE VALUES*

1. Clean the anvil and spindle faces. 2A. To check a 0-1 in. or 0-25 mm micrometer:

a. Turn the thimble until the spindle contacts the anvil.

If the micrometer has a ratchet stop, use it to ensure that the proper amount of pressure is applied.

b. If the adjustment is correct, the 0 mark on the thim-

ble will align exactly with the 0 mark on the sleeve line. If the marks do not align, the micrometer is out of adjustment.

c. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to adjust the

micrometer.

2B. To check a micrometer larger than 1 in. or 25 mm, use the standard gauge supplied by the manufacturer. A standard gauge is a steel block, disc or rod that is machined to an exact size.

a. Place the standard gauge between the spindle and

anvil, and measure its outside diameter or length. If the micrometer has a ratchet stop, use it to ensure that the proper amount of pressure is applied.

b. If the adjustment is correct, the 0 mark on the thim

ble will align exactly with the 0 mark on the sleeve line. If the marks do not align, the micrometer is out of adjustment.

or millimeter)

an inch or millimeter)

of an inch or millimeter)

c. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to adjust the

micrometer.

Care

Micrometers are precision instruments. They must be used and maintained with great care. Note the following:

1. Store micrometers in protective cases or separate padded drawers in a toolbox.

2. When in storage, make sure the spindle and anvil faces do not contact each other or another object. If they do, temperature changes and corrosion may damage the contact faces.

3. Do not clean a micrometer with compressed air. Dirt forced into the tool causes wear.

4. Lubricate micrometers to prevent corrosion.

Reading

When reading a micrometer, numbers are taken from different scales and added together. Make sure there is no dirt or burrs between the tool and the measured object. Never force the micrometer closed around an object. Close the micrometer around the highest point so it can be removed with a slight drag.

The standard inch micrometer (Figure 29) is accurate

to one-thousandth of an inch or 0.001 in. The sleeve is marked in 0.025 in. increments. Every fourth sleeve mark is numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. These numbers indicate

0.100, 0.200, 0.300, and so on.

The tapered end of the thimble has twenty-five lines marked around it. Each mark equals 0.001 in. One com-

plete turn of the thimble will align its zero mark with the first mark on the sleeve or 0.025 in.

When reading a standard inch micrometer, perform the

following steps while referring to Figure 30.

16 CHAPTER ONE

Anvil

STANDARD INCH MICROMETER

Locknut

Spindle

Sleeve

1. Read the sleeve and find the largest number visible. Each sleeve number equals 0.100 in.

2. Count the number of lines between the numbered sleeve mark and the edge of the thimble. Each sleeve mark equals 0.025 in.

3. Read the thimble mark that aligns with the sleeve line. Each thimble mark equals 0.001 in.

Sleeve line

Thimble marks

Thimble

numbers

Frame

Ratchet

NOTE If a thimble mark does not align exactly with the sleeve line, estimate the amount between the lines or use a vernier inch micrometer.

4. Add the readings from Steps 1-3.

Telescoping and Small Hole Gauges

Use telescoping gauges (Figure 31) and small hole

gauges (Figure32) to measure bores. Neither gauge has a

scale for direct readings. An outside micrometer must be used to determine the reading.

To use a telescoping gauge, select the correct size gauge for the bore. Compress the movable post and carefully insert the gauge into the bore. Carefully move the gauge in the bore to make sure it is centered. Tighten the knurled end of the gauge to hold the movable post in position. Remove the gauge and measure the length of the posts. Telescoping gauges are typically used to measure cylinder bores.

To use a small-hole gauge, select the correct size gauge for the bore. Carefully insert the gauge into the bore. Tighten the knurled end of the gauge to carefully expand

0.200 in.

0.025 in.

0.006 in.

0.231 in.

the gauge fingers to the limit within the bore. Do not overtighten the gauge, as there is no built-in release. Excessive tightening can damage the bore surface and damage the tool. Remove the gauge and measure the outside

dimension (Figure 33). Small hole gauges are typically

used to measure valve guides.

Dial Indicator

A dial indicator (Figure 34) is a gauge with a dial face

and needle used to measure variations in dimensions and

GENERAL INFORMATION 17

movements. Measuring brake rotor runout is a typical use for a dial indicator.

Dial indicators are available in various ranges and grad-

uations and with three basic types of mounting bases:

magnetic (Figure 34), clamp, or screw-in stud.

Cylinder Bore Gauge

A cylinder bore gauge is similar to a dial indicator. The

gauge set shown in Figure35 consists of a dial indicator,

handle, and different length adapters (anvils) to fit the gauge to various bore sizes. The bore gauge is used to measure bore size, taper and out-of-round. When using a bore gauge, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Compression Gauge

A compression gauge (Figure 36) measures combus-

tion chamber (cylinder) pressure, usually in psi or kg/cm The gauge adapter is either inserted and held in place or screwed into the spark plug hole to obtain the reading. Disable the engine so it does not start and hold the throttle

18 CHAPTER ONE

in the wide-open position when performing a compres sion test.

Multimeter

A multimeter (Figure37) is an essential tool for electri-

cal system diagnosis. The voltage function indicates the voltage applied or available to various electrical components. The ohmmeter function tests circuits for continuity, or lack of continuity, and measures the resistance of a circuit.

Some manufacturers’ specifications for electrical components are based on results using a specific test meter. Results may vary if using a meter not recommended by the manufacturer is used. Such requirements are noted when applicable.

Ohmmeter (analog) calibration

Each time an analog ohmmeter is used or if the scale is changed, the ohmmeter must be calibrated.

Digital ohmmeters do not require calibration.

1. Make sure the meter battery is in good condition.

2. Make sure the meter probes are in good condition.

3. Touch the two probes together and observe the needle location on the ohms scale. The needle must align with the 0 mark to obtain accurate measurements.

4. If necessary, rotate the meter ohms adjust knob until the needle and 0 mark align.

Voltmeter

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FUNDAMENTALS

A thorough study of the many types of electrical systems used in today’s motorcycles is beyond the scope of this manual. However, an understanding of electrical basics is necessary to perform simple diagnostic tests.

Voltage

Voltage is the electrical potential or pressure in an electrical circuit and is expressed in volts. The more pressure (voltage) in a circuit, the more work that can be performed.

Direct current (DC) voltage means the electricity flows in one direction. All circuits powered by a battery are DC circuits.

Alternating current (AC) means that the electricity flows in one direction momentarily then switches to the opposite direction. Alternator output is an example of AC voltage. This voltage must be changed or rectified to direct current to operate in a battery powered system.

Measuring voltage

Unless otherwise specified, perform all voltage tests with the electrical connectors attached. When measuring voltage, select the meter range that is one scale higher than the expected voltage of the circuit to prevent damage to the meter. To determine the actual voltage in a circuit, use a voltmeter. To simply check if voltage is present, use a test light. When using a test light, either lead can be attached to ground.

1. Attach the negative meter test lead to a good ground (bare metal). Make sure the ground is not insulated with a rubber gasket or grommet.

2. Attach the positive meter test lead to the point being

checked for voltage (Figure 38).

3. Turn on the ignition switch. The test light should light or the meter should display a reading. The reading should be within one volt of battery voltage. If the voltage is less, there is a problem in the circuit.

GENERAL INFORMATION 19

Battery

Voltage

drop

Voltage drop test

Resistance causes voltage to drop. This resistance can be measured in an active circuit by using a voltmeter to perform a voltage drop test. A voltage drop test compares the difference between the voltage available at the start of a circuit to the voltage at the end of the circuit while the circuit is operational. If the circuit has no resistance, there will be no voltage drop. The greater the resistance, the greater the voltage drop will be. Avoltage drop of one volt or more indicates excessive circuit resistance.

1. Connect the positive meter test lead to the electrical source (where electricity is coming from).

2. Connect the negative meter test lead to the electrical

load (where electricity is going). See Figure 39.

3. If necessary, activate the component(s) in the circuit.

4. A voltage reading of 1 volt or more indicates excessive resistance in the circuit. A reading equal to battery voltage indicates an open circuit.

Resistance generally increases with temperature. Per form all testing with the component or circuit at room temperature. Resistance tests performed at high temperatures may indicate high resistance readings and cause the unnecessary replacement of a component.

Measuring resistance and continuity testing

CAUTION Only use an ohmmeter on a circuit that has no voltage present. The meter will be damaged if it is connected to a live circuit. An analog meter must be calibrated each time it is used or the scale is changed. Refer to

Multimeter in this chapter.

A continuity test can determine if the circuit is complete. This type of test is performed with an ohmmeter or a self-powered test lamp.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Attach one test lead (ohmmeter or test light) to one end of the component or circuit.

3. Attach the other test lead to the opposite end of the component or circuit.

4. A self-powered test light will come on if the circuit has continuity or is complete. An ohmmeter will indicate either low or no resistance if the circuit has continuity. An open circuit is indicated if the meter displays infinite resistance.

Amperage

Resistance

Resistance is the opposition to the flow of electricity within a circuit or component and is measured in ohms. Resistance causes a reduction in available current and voltage.

Resistance is measured in an inactive circuit with an ohmmeter. The ohmmeter sends a small amount of current into the circuit and measures how difficult it is to push the current through the circuit.

An ohmmeter, although useful, is not always a good indicator of a circuit’s actual ability under operating conditions. This is due to the low voltage (6-9 volts) that the meter uses to test the circuit. The voltage in an ignition coil secondary winding can be several thousand volts. Such high voltage can cause the coil to malfunction, even though it tests acceptable during a resistance test.

Amperage is the unit of measure for the amount of current within a circuit. Current is the actual flow of electricity. The higher the current, the more work that can be performed up to a given point. If the current flow exceeds the circuit or component capacity, the system will be damaged.

Measuring amps

An ammeter measures the current flow or amps of a cir-

cuit (Figure 40). Amperage measurement requires that

the circuit be disconnected and the ammeter be connected in series to the circuit. Always use an ammeter that can read higher than the anticipated current flow to prevent damage to the meter. Connect the red test lead to the elec trical source and the black test lead to the electrical load.

20 CHAPTER ONE

BASIC SERVICE METHODS

Many of the procedures in this manual are straightforward and can be performed by anyone reasonably competent with tools. However, consider previous experience carefully before attempting any operation involving complicated procedures.

1. Front, in this manual, refers to the front of the motor-

Ammeter

Measures current flow

Connected

in series

cycle. The front of any component is the end closest to the front of the motorcycle. The left and right sides refer to the position of the parts as viewed by the rider sitting on the seat facing forward.

2. Whenever servicing an engine, transmission or suspension component, secure the motorcycle in a safe manner.

3. Tag all similar parts for location and mark all mating parts for position. Record the number and thickness of

any shims as they are removed. Identify parts by placing them in sealed and labeled plastic bags.

4. Tag disconnected wires and connectors with masking tape and a marking pen. Do not rely on memory alone.

5. Protect finished surfaces from physical damage or corrosion. Keep gasoline and other chemicals off painted surfaces.

6. Use penetrating oil on frozen or tight bolts. Avoid using heat where possible. Heat can warp, melt or affect the temper of parts. Heat also damages the finish of paint and plastics. If necessary, use a heat gun.

7. When a part is a press fit or requires a special tool for removal, the information or type of tool is identified in the text. Otherwise, if a part is difficult to remove or install, determine the cause before proceeding.

8. To prevent objects or debris from falling into the engine, cover all openings.

9. Read each procedure thoroughly and compare the figures to the actual components before starting the procedure. Perform the procedure in sequence.

10. Recommendations are occasionally made to refer service to a dealership or specialist. In these cases, the work can be performed more economically by the specialist, than by the home mechanic.

11. The term replace means to discard a defective part and replace it with a new part. Overhaul means to remove, disassemble, inspect, measure, repair and/or replace parts as required to recondition an assembly.

12. Some operations require using a hydraulic press. If a press is not available, have these operations performed by a shop equipped with the necessary equipment. Do not use makeshift equipment that may damage the motorcy cle.

13. Repairs are much faster and easier if the motorcycle is clean before starting work than if the motorcycle is

dirty. Degrease the motorcycle with a commercial degreaser; follow the directions on the container for the best results. Clean all parts with cleaning solvent as they are removed. Do not direct high-pressure water at steering bearings, carburetor hoses, wheel bearings, suspension and electrical components.

14. If special tools are required, have them available before starting the procedure. When special tools are required, they are described at the beginning of the procedure.

15. Make diagrams of similar-appearing parts. For instance, crankcase bolts are often not the same lengths. Do not rely on memory alone. Carefully laid out parts can become disturbed, making it difficult to reassemble the components correctly without a diagram.

16. Make sure all shims and washers are reinstalled in the same location and position.

17. Whenever rotating parts contact a stationary part, look for a shim or washer.

18. Use new gaskets if there is any doubt about the condi tion of old ones.

GENERAL INFORMATION 21

grounding of the secondary circuit occurs at the spark

plug. When performing some tests, such as compression testing, it may be necessary to disconnect the spark plug cap from the spark plug. It is a good practice to ground a disconnected spark plug cap to the engine if the ignition is on, and may be required by some manufacturers to protect the ignition system.

A grounding device may be fabricated to route second-

ary circuit voltage to the engine. Figure 41 shows a tool

that is useful when grounding a single spark plug cap, and

Figure 42 shows a grounding strap that allows the

grounding of several spark plug caps. Both tools use a stud or bolt that fits the spark plug connector in the spark plug cap. An alligator clip permits electrical connection to suitable points on the engine. Do not ground the ignition voltage through alloy components and/or ones that are specially coated. Damage to the finish may occur.

Removing Frozen Fasteners

19. If using self-locking fasteners, replace them with new ones. Do not install standard fasteners in place of self-locking ones.

20. Use grease to hold small parts in place if they tend to fall out during assembly. Do not apply grease to electrical or brake components.

Ignition Grounding

The ignition system produces sufficient voltage to dam age ignition components if the secondary voltage is not grounded during operation. During normal operation,

If a fastener cannot be removed, several methods may be used to loosen it. First, apply penetrating oil. Apply it liberally and let it penetrate for 10-15 minutes. Rap the fastener several times with a small hammer. Do not hit it hard enough to cause damage. Reapply the penetrating oil if necessary.

For frozen screws, apply penetrating oil as described, then insert a screwdriver in the slot and rap the top of the screwdriver with a hammer. This loosens the rust so the screw can be removed in the normal way. If the screw head is too damaged to use this method, grip the head with locking pliers and twist the screw out.

Avoid applying heat unless specifically instructed, as it may melt, warp or remove the temper from parts.

Removing Broken Fasteners

If the head breaks off a screw or bolt, several methods are available for removing the remaining portion. If a large portion of the remainder projects out, try gripping it with locking pliers. If the projecting portion is too small, file it to fit a wrench or cut a slot in it to fit ascrewdriver.

If the head breaks off flush, use a screw extractor. To do this, centerpunch the exact center of the remaining portion

of the screw or bolt (A, Figure 43) and then drill a small

hole in the screw (B) and tap the extractor into the hole (C). Back the screw out with a wrench on the extractor (D,

Figure 43).

22 CHAPTER ONE

Repairing Damaged Threads

Occasionally, threads are stripped through carelessness or impact damage. Often the threads can be repaired by running a tap (for internal threads on nuts) or die (for external threads on bolts) through the threads. To clean or repair spark plug threads, use a spark plug tap.

If an internal thread is damaged, it may be necessary to install a Helicoil or some other type of thread insert. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when installing their insert.

If it is necessary to drill and tap a hole, refer to Table 7 for U.S. tap and drill sizes or Table 8 for metric tap and

drill sizes.

Bearing puller

Spacer Shaft

Bearing

Spacer

Shaft

Stud Removal/Installation

A stud removal tool (Figure44) is available from most

tool suppliers. This tool makes the removal and installation of studs easier. If one is not available, thread two nuts onto the stud and tighten them against each other. Remove the stud by turning the lower nut.

1. Measure the height of the stud above the surface.

2. Thread the stud removal tool onto the stud and tighten it, or thread two nuts onto the stud.

3. Remove the stud by turning the stud remover or the lower nut.

4. Remove any threadlocking compound from the threaded hole. Clean the threads with an aerosol parts cleaner.

5. Install the stud removal tool onto the new stud or thread two nuts onto the stud.

6. Apply threadlocking compound to the threads of the stud.

7. Install the stud and tighten with the stud removal tool or the top nut.

Bearing

Blocks

8. Install the stud to the height noted in Step 1 or its torque specification.

9. Remove the stud removal tool or the two nuts.

Removing Hoses

When removing stubborn hoses, do not exert excessive force on the hose or fitting. Remove the hose clamp and carefully insert a small screwdriver or pick tool between the fitting and hose. Apply a spray lubricant under the hose and carefully twist the hose off the fitting. Clean the fitting of any corrosion or rubber hose material with a wire brush. Clean the inside of the hose thoroughly. Do

GENERAL INFORMATION 23

Press arm

Shaft

Bearing

Spacer

Press bed

Bearing

Housing

not use any lubricant when installing the hose (new or old). The lubricant may allow the hose to come off the fitting, even with the clamp secure.

Bearings

Bearings are precision parts and must be maintained with proper lubrication and maintenance. If a bearing is damaged, replace it immediately. When installing a new bearing, be careful not to damage it. Bearing replacement procedures are included in the individual chapters where applicable; however, use the following sections as a guideline.

Bearing

Shaft

Removal

While bearings are normally removed only when damaged, there may be times when it is necessary to remove a bearing that is in good condition. However, improper bearing removal will damage the bearing and maybe the shaft or case half. Note the following when removing bearings.

1. When using a puller to remove a bearing from a shaft, make sure the shaft does not get damaged. Always place a piece of metal between the end of the shaft and the puller screw. In addition, place the puller arms next to the inner

bearing race (Figure 45).

2. When using a hammer to remove a bearing from a shaft, do not strike the hammer directly against the shaft. Instead, use a brass or aluminum rod between the hammer

and shaft (Figure 46) and make sure to support both bear-

ing races with wooden blocks as shown.

3. The ideal method of bearing removal is with a hydraulic press. Note the following when using a press:

a. Always support the inner and outer bearing races

with a suitable size wooden or aluminum ring (Fig- ure47). If only the outer race is supported, pressure

applied against the balls and/or the inner race will damage them.

b. Always make sure the press arm (Figure 47) aligns

with the center of the shaft. If the arm is not centered, it may damage the bearing and/or shaft.

c. The moment the shaft is free of the bearing, it will

drop to the floor. Secure or hold the shaft to prevent it from falling.

Installation

NOTE Unless otherwise specified, install bearings with the manufacturer’s mark or number facing outward.

1. When installing a bearing in a housing, apply pressure

to the outer bearing race (Figure 48). When installing a

bearing on a shaft, apply pressure to the inner bearing race

(Figure 49).

24 CHAPTER ONE

2. When installing a bearing as described in Step 1, some type of driver is required. Never strike the bearing directly

with a hammer or the bearing will be damaged. When installing a bearing, use a piece of pipe or a driver with a di-

ameter that matches the bearing inner race. Figure 50

shows the correct way to use a driver and hammer to install a bearing.

3. Step 1 describes how to install a bearing in a housing over a shaft. However, when installing a bearing over a

Driver

shaft and into the housing at the same time, a tight fit is required for both outer and inner bearing races. In this situation, install a spacer underneath the driver tool so that

pressure is applied evenly across both races (Figure 51).

If the outer race is not supported as shown, the balls will push against the outer bearing race and damage it.

Shaft

Bearing

Interference fit

1. Follow this procedure when installing a bearing over a shaft. When a tight fit is required, the bearing inside diameter will be smaller than the shaft. In this case, driving the

bearing on the shaft using normal methods may cause bearing damage. Instead, heat the bearing before installation. Note the following:

a. Secure the shaft so it is ready for bearing installa-

tion.

b. Clean all residues from the bearing surface of the

shaft. Remove burrs with a file or sandpaper.

c. Fill a suitable pot or beaker with clean mineral oil.

Place a thermometer rated above 248

° F (120° C) in

the oil. Support the thermometer so it does not rest on the bottom or side of the pot.

d. Remove the bearing from its wrapper and secure it

Driver

Spacer

Bearing

with a piece of heavy wire bent to hold it in the pot. Hang the bearing in the pot so it does not touch the

Shaft

Housing

bottom or sides of the pot.

e. Turn the heat on and monitor the thermometer.

When the oil temperature rises to approximately 248

° F (120° C), remove the bearing from the pot

and quickly install it. If necessary, place a socket on the inner bearing race and tap the bearing into place. As the bearing chills, it will tighten on the shaft, so install it quickly. Make sure the bearing is installed completely.

2. Follow this step when installing a bearing in a housing. Bearings are generally installed in a housing with a slight interference fit. Driving the bearing into the housing us ing normal methods may damage the housing or bearing. Instead, heat the housing before installing the bearing. Note the following:

Before heating the housing in this procedure, wash the housing thoroughly with detergent and water. Rinse and rewash the housing as required to remove all traces of oil and other chemical deposits.

a. Heat the housing to approximately 212

in an oven or on a hot plate. An easy way to check

that it is the proper temperature is to place tiny drops of water on the housing; if they sizzle and evaporate immediately, the temperature is correct. Heat only one housing at a time.

CAUTION

° F (100° C)

GENERAL INFORMATION 25

c. Hold the housing with the bearing side down and

Spring

tap the bearing out. Repeat for all bearings in the housing. Remove and install the bearings with a suitable size socket and extension.

Dust lip

Main lip

Oil

d. Before heating the bearing housing, place the new

bearing(s) in a freezer if possible. Chilling a bearing slightly reduces its outside diameter while the heated bearing housing assembly is slightly larger due to heat expansion. This will make bearing installation easier.

Replacement

NOTE Unless noted otherwise, install bearings with the manufacturer’s mark or number facing out.

e. While the housing is still hot, install the new bear-

ing(s) into the housing. Install the bearings by hand, if possible. If necessary, lightly tap the bearing(s)

into the housing with a socket placed on the outer

bearing race (Figure 48). Do not install new bear-

ings by driving on the inner-bearing race. Install the bearing(s) until it seats completely.

CAUTION Do not heat the housing with a propane or acetylene torch. Never bring a flame into contact with the bearing or housing. The direct heat will destroy the case hardening of the bearing and will likely warp the housing.

b. Remove the housing from the oven or hot plate, and

hold onto the housing with a kitchen potholder, heavy gloves or heavy shop cloth.

Seal Replacement

Seals (Figure 52) are used to contain oil, water, grease

or combustion gasses in a housing or shaft. Improper removal of a seal can damagethe housing or shaft. Improper installation of the seal can damage the seal. Note the following:

1. Prying is generally the easiest and most effective method of removing a seal from the housing. However, al-

ways place a rag underneath the pry tool (Figure 53) to

prevent damage to the housing.

2. Pack waterproof grease in the seal lips before installing the seal.

3. In most cases, install seals with the manufacturer’s numbers or marks face out.

4. Install seals with a socket placed on the outside of the

seal as shown in Figure 54. Drive the seal squarely into

the housing until it is flush. Never install a seal by hitting against the top of the seal with a hammer.

STORAGE

Several months of non-use can cause a general deterioration of the motorcycle. This is especially true in areas of extreme temperature variations. This deterioration can be minimized with careful preparation for storage. A prop erly stored motorcycle is much easier to return to service.

26 CHAPTER ONE

Storage Area Selection

When selecting a storage area, consider the following:

1. The storage area must be dry. Aheated area is best, but not necessary. It should be insulated to minimize extreme temperature variations.

2. If the building has large window areas, mask them to keep sunlight off the motorcycle.

3. Avoid buildings in industrial areas where corrosive emissions may be present. Avoid areas close to saltwater.

4. Consider the area’s risk of fire, theft or vandalism. Check with your insurer regarding motorcycle coverage while in storage.

Preparing the Motorcycle for Storage

The amount of motorcycle preparation before storage depends on the expected length of non-use, storage area conditions and personal preference. Consider the following list the minimum requirement:

1. Wash the motorcycle thoroughly. Make sure all dirt, mud and road debris are removed.

2. Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Drain the engine oil and transmission oil, regardless of the riding time since the last service. Fill the engine and transmission with the recommended type of oil.

3. Drain all fuel from the fuel tank. Run the engine until all the fuel is consumed from the lines and carburetor.

4. Drain the fuel from the carburetor as follows:

a. Remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Eight b. Open the drain screw and thoroughly drain the fuel

from the float bowl into a suitable container.

c. Move the choke knob to the full open position.

d. Operate the start button and try to start the engine.

This will draw out all remaining fuel from the jets.

5. Remove the spark plugs and pour a teaspoon of engine oil into the cylinders. Place a rag over the openings and slowly turn the engine over to distribute the oil. Reinstall the spark plugs.

6. Remove the battery. Store the battery in a cool and dry location.

7. Cover the exhaust and intake openings.

8. Apply a protective substance to the plastic and rubber components, including the tires. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for each type of product being used.

9. Place the motorcycle on a stand or wooden blocks, so the wheels are off the ground. If this is not possible, place a piece of plywood between the tires and the ground. Inflate the tires to the recommended pressure if the motorcycle cannot be elevated.

10. Cover the motorcycle with old bed sheets or something similar. Do not cover it with any plastic material that will trap moisture.

Returning the Motorcycle to Service

The amount of service required when returning a motorcycle to service after storage depends on the length of non-use and storage conditions. In addition to performing the reverse of the above procedure, make sure the brakes, clutch, throttle and engine stop switch work properly before operating the motorcycle. Refer to Chapter Three and evaluate the service intervals to determine which areas require service.

Table 1 MOTORCYCLE DIMENSIONS

Overall length

XL883, XL883L, XL883R, XL1200R 90.1 in. (2288 mm) XL883C, XL1200C, XL1200L 90.3 in. (2294 mm)

Overall width

XL883, XL883C, XL883L, XL883R, XL1200C 32.7 in. (831 mm) XL1200R 36.7 in. (932 mm)

(continued)

GENERAL INFORMATION 27

Table 1 MOTORCYCLE DIMENSIONS (continued)

Overall height

XL883, XL883L, XL883R 44.8 in. (1138 mm) XL883C, XL1200C 45.7 in. (1161 mm) XL1200R 49.2 in. (1250 mm)

Wheelbase

XL883, XL883L, XL883R, XL1200L, XL1200R 60.0 in. (1524 mm) XL883C, XL1200C 60.4 in. (1534 mm)

Seat height

XL883 27.3 in. (693 mm) XL883C, XL1200C 26.5 in. (673 mm) XL883L 26.0 in. (660 mm) XL1200L 26.25 in. (667 mm) XL883R, XL1200R 28.1 in. (714 mm)

Ground clearance

XL883, XL883R, XL1200R 5.6 in. (142 mm) XL883C, XL883L, XL1200C, XL1200L 4.4 in. (112 mm)

Table 2 MOTORCYCLE WEIGHT

Dry weight

XL883, XL883L, XL1200R 553 lb. (250 kg) XL883C, XL1200C 562 lb. (255 kg) XL883R 560 lb. (254 kg) XL1200L 554 lb. (251 kg)

Maximum load capacity 1000 lb. (453.6 kg)

Table 3 FUEL TANK CAPACITY

Total

XL883, XL883L, XL883R, XL1200R 3.3 gal. (12.5 L) XL883C, XL1200C, XL1200L 4.5 gal. (17.0 L)

Reserve

XL883, XL883L, XL883R, XL1200R 0.8 gal. (3.0 L) XL883C, XL1200C, XL1200L 1.0 gal. (3.8 L)

Table 4 GENERAL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS (ft.-lb.)

Size/Grade21/4 5/16 3/8 7/16 1/2 9/16 5/8 3/4 7/8 1

SAE 2 6 12 20 32 47 69 96 155 206 310 SAE 5 10 19 33 54 78 114 154 257 382 587

(continued)

28 CHAPTER ONE

Table 4 GENERAL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS (ft.-lb.)1(continued)

Size/Grade21/4 5/16 3/8 7/16 1/2 9/16 5/8 3/4 7/8 1

SAE 7 13 25 44 71 110 154 215 360 570 840 SAE 8 14 29 47 78 119 169 230 380 600 700

1.Convertft.-lb. specification to N•m by multiplyingby1.3558.

2. Fastener strength of SAE bolts can be determined by the bolt head grade markings. Unmarked bolt heads and cap screws are usually mild steel. More grade markings indicate higher fastener strength.

SAE 2

Table 5 CONVERSION FORMULAS

Multiply: By: To get the equivalent of:

Length

Inches 25.4 Millimeter Inches 2.54 Centimeter Miles 1.609 Kilometer Feet 0.3048 Meter Millimeter 0.03937 Inches Centimeter 0.3937 Inches Kilometer 0.6214 Mile Meter 3.281 Feet

Fluid volume

U.S. quarts 0.9463 Liters U.S. gallons 3.785 Liters U.S. ounces 29.573529 Milliliters Imperial gallons 4.54609 Liters Imperial quarts 1.1365 Liters Liters 0.2641721 U.S. gallons Liters 1.0566882 U.S. quarts Liters 33.814023 U.S. ounces Liters 0.22 Imperial gallons Liters 0.8799 Imperial quarts Milliliters 1.0 Cubic centimeters Milliliters 0.001 Liters Milliliters 0.033814 U.S. ounces

SAE 7SAE 5 SAE 8

(continued)

GENERAL INFORMATION 29

Table 5 CONVERSION FORMULAS (continued)

Multiply: By: To get the equivalent of:

Torque

Foot-pounds 1.3558 Newton-meters Foot-pounds 0.138255 Meters-kilograms Inch-pounds 0.11299 Newton-meters Newton-meters 0.7375622 Foot-pounds Newton-meters 8.8507 Inch-pounds Meters-kilograms 7.2330139 Foot-pounds

Volume

Cubic inches 16.387064 Cubic centimeters Cubic centimeters 0.0610237 Cubic inches

Temperature

Fahrenheit (!F – 32) × 0.556 Centigrade Centigrade (!C ×1.8) + 32 Fahrenheit

Weight

Ounces 28.3495 Grams Pounds 0.4535924 Kilograms Grams 0.035274 Ounces Kilograms 2.2046224 Pounds

Pressure

Pounds per square inch 0.070307 Kilograms per

square centimeter

Kilograms per square 14.223343 Pounds per square inch

centimeter Kilopascals 0.1450 Pounds per square inch Pounds per square inch 6.895 Kilopascals

Speed

Miles per hour 1.609344 Kilometers per hour Kilometers per hour 0.6213712 Miles per hour

Table 6 TECHNICAL ABBREVIATIONS

A Ampere ABDC After bottom dead center AC Alternating current A•h Ampere hour ATDC After top dead center BAS Bank angle sensor BBDC Before bottom dead center BDC Bottom dead center BTDC Before top dead center C Celsius cc Cubic centimeter CDI Capacitor discharge ignition CKP Crankshaft position sensor cm Centimeter

(continued)

30 CHAPTER ONE

Table 6 TECHNICAL ABBREVIATIONS (continued)

cu. in. Cubic inch and cubic inches cyl. Cylinder DTC Diagnostic trouble code DC Direct current F Fahrenheit fl. oz. Fluid ounces ft. Foot ft.-lb. Foot pounds gal. Gallon and gallons hp Horsepower Hz Hertz ICM Ignition control module in. Inch and inches in.-lb. Inch-pounds in. Hg Inches of mercury kg Kilogram

kg/cm kgm Kilogram meter km Kilometer km/h Kilometer per hour kPa Kilopascals kW Kilowatt L Liter and liters L/m Liters per minute lb. Pound and pounds m Meter mL Milliliter mm Millimeter MAP Manifold absolute pressure sensor MPa Megapascal N Newton N•m Newton meter oz. Ounce and ounces p Pascal psi Pounds per square inch pt. Pint and pints qt. Quart and quarts rpm Revolution per minute TSM/TSSM Turn signal module/Turn signal security module V Volt VAC Alternating current voltage VDC Direct current voltage W Watt

*Add model/manual specific abbreviations as needed.

Kilogram per square centimeter

Table 7 U.S. TAP AND DRILL SIZES

Tap thread Drill size Tap thread Drill size

#0-80 3/64 1/4-28 No. 3 #1-64 No. 53 5/16-18 F

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