4-5 Channel with
4 micro servos (w/o flaps) or
6 micro servos (with flaps)
ElectriFly SS-45
APC-E 12x8
WARRANTY
Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component
parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this
warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or
material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the
place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to
Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone
number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of
the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon
receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly
as possible.
Academy of Model Aeronautics:If you are not already a
member of the AMA, please join! The AMA is the governing
body of model aviation and membership provides liability
insurance coverage, protects modelers’ rights and interests
and is required to fly at most R/C sites.
Academy of Model
Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!!
Two of the most important things you can do to preserve the
radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying near fullscale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people.
SCALE COMPETITION
Though the Great Planes Mister Mulligan EP is an ARF and
may not have the same level of detail as an “all-out” scratchbuilt competition model, it is a scale model nonetheless
and is therefore eligible to compete in the Fun Scale class
in AMA competition (we receive many favorable reports of
Great Planes ARF’s in scale competition!). In Fun Scale, the
“builder of the model” rule does not apply. To receive the five
points for scale documentation, the only proof required that a
full size aircraft of this type in this paint/markings scheme did
exist is a single sheet such as a kit box cover from a plastic
model, a photo, or a profile painting, etc. If the photo is in
black and white other written documentation of color must
be provided. Contact the AMA for a rule book with full details.
If you would like photos of the full-size Mister Mulligan for
scale documentation, or if you would like to study the photos
to add more scale details, photo packs are available from:
Bob’s Aircraft Documentation
3114 Yukon Ave
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Phone: (714) 979-8058
Fax: (714) 979-7279
www.bobsairdoc.com
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS… FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
INTRODUCTION
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Mister Mulligan EP visit the Great Planes web site at www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then select the
Mister Mulligan EP ARF. If there is new technical information
or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will appear in
the upper left corner of the page.
1. Your Mister Mulligan EP should not be considered a toy,
but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Mister Mulligan EP, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may
2
Page 3
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in good condition,
a correctly sized engine, and other components as specified
in this instruction manual. All components must be correctly
installed so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. You must check the operation of the model and
all components before every flight.
5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
6. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, or if a motor larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
7. WARNING: The cowl, wheel pants, and some fairings are
made of fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye, skin
and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into or on a part
to remove fiberglass dust, as the dust will blow back into
your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and
rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fiberglass
parts. Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after
working with fiberglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and fl yability of your fi nished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
ITEMS REQUIRED
Radio Equipment
A 4-channel minimum radio system is required to fly this
model. We recommend using a 6-channel radio so that wing
flaps can be used.
Futaba
❏
OR
Futaba R114F FM Micro Receiver
❏
(Low Band – FUTL0442, High Band – FUTL0443)
Futaba FM Single Conversion Short Crystal
❏
(Low Band – FUTL62**, High Band – FUTL63**)
®
R617FS 7-channel 2.4GHz Receiver
No Flaps Option
(1) Y-harness (FUTM4130)
❏
(4) Futaba 3115 Micro Precision Servo (FUTM0415)
❏
OR
(4) minimum 39 oz-in (2.8 kg-cm) Micro Servos
❏
Operable Flaps Option
(2) Y-harness (FUTM4130)
❏
(2) 6" [150mm] servo extension (HCAM2701 for Futaba)
❏
(6) Futaba 3115 Micro Precision Servo (FUTM0415)
❏
OR
(6) minimum 39 oz-in (2.8 kg-cm) Micro Servos
❏
Motor, ESC and Propeller
Great Planes RimFire .32 (42-50-800kV) Brushless
❏
Outrunner Motor (GPMG4700)
Great Planes Silver Series 45A Brushless ESC
❏
(GPMM1840)
APC 12x8 Electric Propeller (APCQ4133)
❏
Battery and Charger
Other battery packs will also work in this model, but please
be sure to always use a 4S LiPo pack that can supply at least
45A continuous.
FlightPower
❏
(FPWP6576)
Great Planes ElectriFly Triton
❏
(GPMM3155)
Read the entire instruction sheet included with the battery.
Failure to follow all instructions could cause permanent
damage to the battery and its surroundings, and cause
bodily harm!
• ONLY use a LiPo approved charger.
• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.
• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER charge
through the “discharge” lead.
• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.
• ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match battery
volts.
• ALWAYS charge in a fi reproof location.
• NEVER trickle charge.
• NEVER allow battery temperature to exceed 150° F (65° C).
• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any way
or puncture cells.
• NEVER discharge below 3.0V per cell
• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave
unattended during charge or discharge.
• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
®
EON-X™ 4350mAh 14.8V 30C LiPo
™
EQ AC/DC Charger
LIPO WARNING!!
(2) 12" [300mm] servo extension
❏
(HCAM2711 for Futaba)
3
Page 4
Required Adhesives
and Building Supplies
To finish this airplane you will need the following items.
• There are three types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by
a number and a length. For example,
#6 x 3/4" [19mm]
Machine screws are designated by a
number, threads per inch, and a length.
For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm]
Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS) are
designated by a number, threads per
inch, and a length. For example 4-40 x
3/4" [19mm]
• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it means
that you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, and then slightly modify or custom
fit the part as necessary for the best fit.
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏
3/8" [9.5mm] heat-shrink tubing (DUBM2180)
❏
21st Century® sealing iron (COVR2700)
❏
21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
❏
Rotary tool such as Dremel
❏
Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)
❏
CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏
CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏
Dremel Drum Sander, Coarse 3/8” (DRER0968)
❏
Great Planes Easy-Touch™ Hand Sander 5.5”
❏
(GPMR6169)
Great Planes Easy-Touch Sandpaper 150 Grit
❏
(GPMR6183)
Great Planes 1/5th Scale Sport Pilot – Red
❏
(GPMQ9015)
Great Planes 1/5th Scale Sport Pilot – Blue
❏
(GPMQ9016)
Great Planes 1/5th Scale Sport Pilot – Yellow
❏
(GPMQ9017)
Revell® Razor Saw (RMXR6960)
❏
®
•Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.
• The Mister Mulligan EP is factory-covered with Jet White
Top Flite
ever be required, MonoKote can be patched with additional
MonoKote purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in
six-foot rolls, but some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If
only a small piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch,
perhaps a fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote
is applied with a model airplane covering iron, but in an
emergency a regular iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote
includes full instructions for application.
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make
sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of
acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or
missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written
in the Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Mister Mulligan EP are available
using the order numbers shown below. The fastest, most
economical service can be provided by your hobby dealer or
mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site
at www.greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the
bottom of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services
by calling (217) 398-0007, or fax at (217) 398-7721, but full
retail prices and shipping and handling charges will apply.
Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged sales tax.
®
If ordering via fax, include a Visa
or MasterCard® number
and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason, contact
Product Support by telephone at (217) 398-8970, or by
e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.com.
Full-size plans are not available. You can download a copy of this manual at greatplanes.com.
5
Page 6
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Before you begin assembling your model, inspect it for
wrinkled covering and areas where the covering should be
tacked down to the wood like the openings for the servo
bays. Use Low heat (about 250° F [121° C]) to tack down the
edges. Raise the temperature and iron over wrinkles with
light pressure. Be careful not to contact the edges that you
tacked down while shrinking.
2. Working with the left wing, remove the aileron servo
❏ ❏
bay cover. Center the servo arm in the opening with the arm
pointing out as shown. With the servo in this position, glue
two 7mm x 10mm x 14mm hardwood blocks under the servo
mounting tabs. If you are using the recommended Futaba
S3115 servos, you may simply use epoxy to glue the blocks
in the positions marked inside the cover.
Note: Save the plastic bag that the fuselage came in. It will
be used later in the assembly.
WING ASSEMBLY
Aileron Servo Installation
3. Drill mounting holes for the servo using a 1/16"
❏ ❏
[1.6mm] drill. Install the two servo screws that came with your
servo. Remove the screws and the servo and wick a drop of
thin CA into the screw threads that you just tapped in the
hardwood blocks. After the CA cures, re-install the screws.
1. Prepare a left and a right servo using your radio system
❏
to center the servos. Remove the servo arm retaining screws
and the servo arms. Install the standard size servo arms that
came with your servos. Rotate the arm on the splined servo
shaft and choose the arm that is 90° to the side of the servo
case when the servo is centered. Clip off the unused servo
arms so that your aileron servos appear as shown. Fit any
servo grommets now (if equipped).
4. Attach a 12" [305mm] servo lead extension to the
❏ ❏
aileron servo. Secure the connection with a piece of 3/8"
[9.5mm] diameter heat shrink tubing (not supplied) or wrap
the connection with electrical tape.
6
Page 7
5. Tie the guide string to the end of the servo lead and
❏ ❏
carefully route the servo lead through the wing and out of the
hole in the sheeting near the root rib of the wing.
6. Orient the servo bay cover as shown and install it
❏ ❏
using four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheetmetal screws with four
#2 flat washers. Remove the screws, washers and the cover
and harden the screw holes in the wing with thin CA. Then,
re-install the cover and screws.
8. Clip off and discard the backing plate from a small
❏ ❏
control horn. Align the horn over the mark you made and
slide it forward until the pushrod holes in the horn are directly
over the hinge line. Drill two 3/8" [9.5mm] deep holes using a
1/16" [1.6mm] drill. Be careful not to drill completely through
the aileron.
9. Install the control horn using two #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
❏ ❏
sheetmetal screws. Remove the screws and the horn and
wick about 4-5 drops of thin CA into the screw holes you
tapped. Allow the CA to dry and reinstall the control horn.
10. Screw a clevis onto a 6" [152mm] threaded pushrod
❏ ❏
so that at least 1/8" [3.2mm] of thread protrudes past the
barrel of the clevis. Loosely fit a silicone clevis retainer to the
pushrod.
7. Using a 90° builder’s square or a builder’s triangle,
❏ ❏
make a mark on the aileron directly behind the aileron servo
arm. Align the flat base of the square with the aileron hinge
line. Then slide the square into position and make your mark.
11. Fit the clevis to the outermost hole in the aileron
❏ ❏
control horn. Extend the pushrod forward and align it with
the hole you drilled in the servo arm. With the servo arm
centered and the aileron at neutral, make a mark at the hole
in the servo arm.
7
Page 8
12. Bend the pushrod 90° at the mark that you made.
❏ ❏
Fit the pushrod to the servo arm and fasten it with a FasLink
pushrod retainer. Cut off the remaining pushrod so that at
least 1/4" [6.4mm] of pushrod remains.
16. Glue the 3mm x 20mm wing alignment dowel into the
❏
left wing as shown so that at least 10mm is protruding.
Fixed Wing Flap (Option 1)
13. Repeat steps 2 through 12 to prepare the right wing.
❏
14. Glue a 6mm x 25mm wing dowel into the leading edge
❏
of each wing so that the dowel protrudes out 1/4" [6.4mm]
as shown.
On this model, you can set up the flaps one of three ways.
You can purchase two additional servos and use flaps for
landings. If you never intend to use flaps, you may glue the
flaps in the fully retracted position. If you want the option to
add flaps later you can install the control horns and fix them
in place using the supplied flap pushrod.
1. To permanently fix the flaps in the retracted position,
❏
glue the wing flap servo bay covers in place.
15. Sand the surface of the wing alignment dowel to
❏
prepare it for glue.
2. Trim the covering from the leading edge of each flap.
❏
Remove the covering from the trailing edge of the wing in
front of each flap. Trim the covering about 1/16" [1.6mm]
inside of the edge.
8
Page 9
3. Mix up a batch of 6-minute epoxy. Brush epoxy on the
❏
leading edge of each flap and the corresponding trailing
edge of each wing. Glue each flap in the retracted position.
Before the epoxy cures, wipe off the excess with a paper
towel dampened with denatured alcohol.
Fixed Wing Flap (Option 2)
With this option, you can easily add operable flaps later.
6-minute epoxy, you can heat up the glue joint later and
easily remove the fixed flap retainers to convert to operable
flaps.
3. Trim away the covering from the three small holes.
❏
Install a nylon strap across the two longitudinal holes using
two of the sheetmetal screws included with the straps. Don’t
forget to harden the screw holes with thin CA. Prepare both
servo bay covers.
1. Identify the four wooden fixed flap retainers shown
❏
here. Rotate the small oval piece until the three holes in that
piece align with the three holes in the larger piece. Glue the
small oval piece to the larger piece. Use the laser-etched
outline and the holes to center the small oval piece. Allow the
glue to dry. Note: The pair that you create will not be mirror
images because both flap servo arms must operate in the
same direction as they exit the wing.
2. Glue the pieces into the flap servo bay covers using
❏
6-minute epoxy. Do not remove the covering. By using
4. Install the covers onto the wings. Be careful to orient
❏
the covers properly as shown.
9
Page 10
5. Working with the left wing first, make a mark on the
❏ ❏
flap LE directly behind the side opposite the hole in each
servo bay cover. This is the side the pushrod will be on.
6. Hold a small control horn over the mark you made
❏ ❏
with the pushrod holes directly over the hinge line. Drill two
3/8" [9.5mm] deep holes using a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit.
7. Install the control horn using two #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
❏ ❏
sheetmetal screws.
8. Prepare a 6" [152mm] pushrod the same way you
❏ ❏
prepared the aileron servos using one nylon clevis and a
silicone clevis retainer.
10. Bend the pushrod 90°. Insert the bent portion
❏ ❏
under the hump of the nylon strap. Make a mark at the point
you will make the second 90° bend.
11. Remove the pushrod and make the second 90°
❏ ❏
bend so that it is vertical as shown.
9. Attach the clevis to the outermost hole in the flap
❏ ❏
control horn. Extend the pushrod forward and mark the point
that you will make the first 90° bend.
12. Remove the nylon strap and reinstall the pushrod.
❏ ❏
Make any adjustments to the length of the pushrod by
tightening or loosening the clevis until the flap is set in the
retracted position.
10
Page 11
13. Repeat steps 5 through 12 to finish the right wing.
❏
Remember to orient the servo bay cover properly. Use the
photo above for reference.
14. To add operable flaps later, remove the pushrod from
❏
the servo bay cover. Using a heat gun, heat up the wooden
flap retainer pieces you glued in place until you soften the
epoxy. Use a flat razor blade to separate the glue joint and
remove the retainer pieces from the servo bay covers. Follow
the directions in the next section to install and set up flap
servos. Note: Clip off the last 90° bend from the pushrods
and reuse them to hook up your servos.
Servo Operated Flaps (Option 3)
Because of the relatively small amount of control throw
that is needed for the flaps, we recommend that you use
a radio system that has adjustable end-points. The small
amount of control throw necessary is very difficult to achieve
mechanically. We found that we had to set our end points to
30 – 40%.
2. Establish the rotation direction of your flap servos.
❏ ❏
Lay one flap servo on its side as shown in the sketch. Turn
on your radio and actuate the flap channel. Make sure that
the servo rotates in the proper direction in conjunction with
the movement of the flap dial or slider. If it doesn’t, reverse
the servo operation so that it does.
3. With the radio still switched on, set the flaps on the
❏ ❏
transmitter to the fully retracted position. Using the short arms
that came with your servos, prepare two servos as shown
choosing the servo arm that aligns perpendicular to the servo
centerline. Drill the outermost hole in the short arm or the hole
that is approximately 5/16" [8mm] out from the center of the
output shaft.
1. Trim away the covering from the servo arm hole.
❏ ❏
4. Prepare each flap servo bay cover using two 7mm
❏ ❏
x 10mm x 14mm hardwood blocks. Glue these in place and
drill the holes for the servo screws using a 1/16" [1.6mm]
drill. Install the servos. Both covers should look the same.
11
Page 12
5. Attach a 6" [152mm] servo lead extension to the flap
❏ ❏
servo. Secure the connection using 3/8" [9.5mm] heat shrink
tubing or electrical tape.
6. Route the servo lead through the wing and out
❏ ❏
of the hole in the sheeting as shown. Install the servo bay
cover in the orientation shown using four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
sheetmetal screws and four #2 flat washers. Harden the
threads in the wood with thin CA as instructed before.
8. Hold a small control horn over the mark you made with
❏ ❏
the pushrod holes directly over the hinge line. Drill two 3/8"
[9.5mm] deep holes using a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit. Be careful
not to drill completely through the flap. Install the control horn
using two #2x3/8" [9.5mm] sheetmetal screws.
threads in the wood with thin CA.
9. Prepare a 6" [152mm] pushrod the same way you
❏ ❏
prepared the aileron servos using one nylon clevis and a
silicone clevis retainer.
10. Attach the pushrod to the outermost hole in the
❏ ❏
flap control horn. Extend the pushrod forward and line it
up with the outermost hole in the servo arm. With the flap
retracted and the servo in the retracted position as shown,
mark your first bend point on the pushrod. Make a 90° bend
at the mark you made.
Harden the
7. Make a mark on the flap LE directly behind the
❏ ❏
servo arm.
12
11. Attach the pushrod to the servo using a nylon Faslink
❏ ❏
.
Page 13
12. Repeat steps 1 through 11 for the right wing.
❏
13. Insert the wing tube into one wing and join the two
❏
wings. You may use epoxy to glue the wings together if you
wish, but it is not required.
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
Main Landing Gear Installation
2. The main landing gear leg fairings are only slightly different.
❏
It is difficult to see the difference by just looking at them. We
recommend test fitting both of the landing gear fairings over
the main landing gear and checking the fit. If they are properly
oriented, they should fit against the fuselage closely. If they do
not, try switching them or rotating them front to back.
3. Glue the fairings to the gear legs using R/C-56 canopy
❏
glue around the flange. Clean up any excess glue with a
damp paper towel. Tape the fairings in place. Remove the
tape after the glue dries.
1. Install the main landing gear to the fuselage using six
❏
4-40 x 1/2" [12.7mm] socket-head cap screws, six #4 lock
washers, and six #4 flat washers. Apply a drop of threadlocker
to the screws before installing.
4. Install an axle onto a landing gear leg using a 5/16-24
❏
lock nut. Using a felt tipped pen, mark the bottom side of
each axle as shown. Make one mark 3/16" [4.8mm] from the
base of the axle and the other mark 1-1/8" [29mm] from the
base of the axle.
13
Page 14
5. Grind one 3/16" [4.8mm] wide flat spot at each mark
❏
you made.
Tail Installation
1. Cut the protective piece of balsa wood out of the TE of
❏
the horizontal stabilizer slot on the fuselage.
2. Fit the wing to the fuselage using two 1/4-20 nylon wing
❏
bolts.
6. Install the main wheel on the axle using a 5/32" [4mm]
❏
wheel collar on either side of the wheel. Use thread locking
compound on the 6-32 set screws and tighten the set screws
against the flat spots. Add a drop of light weight household
machine oil between the axle and the wheel and check that
the wheel spins freely.
Let’s finish assembling the fuselage before putting the wheel
pants on.
3. Test fit the horizontal tail to the fuselage. Align the slot
❏
in the center of the horizontal stab with the slot for the vertical
fin. Test fit the vertical tail.
4. Raise and support the tail of the model and take a few
❏
steps back. Look at the alignment between the horizontal tail
and the wing. If one side of the tail sits higher than the other,
14
Page 15
remove the tail and lightly sand the bottom of the horizontal
stab slot on the high side and the top of the slot on the low
side. Re-fit the horizontal and vertical tail and check the
alignment once again.
5. Using a large builder’s triangle, check the vertical tail to
❏
see that it is square with the horizontal tail.
Tailwheel and Rudder Installation
1. Clean the surface of the plastic tailwheel bushing using
❏
denatured alcohol. Sand the bent portion of the tailwheel
wire. Apply a drop of oil onto the tailwheel wire to prevent the
wire from being glued to the bushing.
6. Pull the vertical fin out of the fuselage. Using a toothpick
❏
apply 30-minute epoxy to the top of the horizontal stabilizer,
through the vertical fin slot. Glue the horizontal and vertical
tail to the fuselage using thin CA. Wick several generous
beads of CA into the tail to fuselage joints. Remember to
apply glue to both sides and the top and bottom of the
horizontal stabilizer.
7. Remove the wing.
❏
2. Insert the tailwheel assembly into the fuselage from
❏
the bottom. Using 6-minute epoxy, glue the tailwheel bushing
into the fuselage. Don’t get epoxy in the bushing or on the
wire.
15
Page 16
3. Prepare three CA hinges by
❏
poking a T-pin through the center
of the hinge.
4. Test fit the hinges in the slot of the vertical fin. Then,
❏
test fit the rudder onto the hinges. If you are having trouble
fitting the hinges into the fin or the rudder, use the back of a
hobby knife to dig out the hinge slot.
6. Fit the rudder onto the hinges and the tailwheel wire.
❏
Push the rudder forward up against the fin and remove the
T-pins. Slide the rudder up or down until the top of the rudder
is even with the top of the fin. Deflect the rudder left and
right a few times. Hold the rudder to one side and apply 5-7
drops of thin CA to each hinge. Deflect the rudder in the
opposite direction and apply 5-7 drops of CA to the other
side of each hinge. Clean up any excess CA using a paper
towel, dampened with CA debonder.
Servo Installation
5. Using a toothpick, apply some 6-minute epoxy to the hole
❏
in the rudder for the tailwheel wire. Apply a bit of epoxy to the
tip of the tailwheel wire. Proceed immediately to the next step.
1. Prepare two 36" [914mm] pushrods using two nylon
❏
clevises and two silicone clevis retainers. Thread the clevis
onto the pushrod so that at least 1/8" [3.2mm] of thread
protrudes past the barrel of the clevis.
16
Page 17
2. Fit one pushrod into the elevator pushrod guide tube on
❏
the left side of the fuselage.
4. Drill two 3/32" [2.4mm] holes completely through the
❏
elevator.
5. Install the control horn using the backing plate and two
❏
2-56 x 1/2" [12.7mm] machine screws. Fit the clevis to the
outermost hole in the control horn.
3. Cut the backing plate from the large control horn and set
❏
it aside for now. Align the center of the control horn directly
over the arm of the elevator torque rod as shown in the sketch.
Make sure that the horn is also aligned fore and aft so that the
pushrod holes are directly over the hingeline. Using the horn
as a guide, mark the location of the mounting holes.
6. Clip the excess length of pushrod to allow you to work
❏
with the elevator pushrod easily. Prepare a servo using a
standard arm so that the servo arm is 90° to the servo case.
Fit it to the servo tray so that the second hole outboard or
the hole that is 13/32" [10.3mm] outboard of the center of the
servo shaft is lined up with the pushrod. Use a 1/16" [1.6mm]
drill to drill two holes for the servo. Install the servo using
the screws that came with your servo. As before, harded the
threads in the wood with thin CA.
17
Page 18
7. Drill the servo arm at the second hole outboard using
❏
a 5/64 [2mm] drill. Hold the elevators at zero throw and mark
where to bend the elevator pushrod.
and a #6 lock nut to secure the screw. Now screw a nylon
torque rod horn onto the threaded end of the screw so that it
is flush with the end. Connect the clevis.
11. Prepare a servo. Install the rudder servo the same
❏
way you installed the elevator servo. Bend the pushrod 90°
and trim the excess pushrod so that at least 1/4" [6.4mm] of
pushrod remains. Connect the pushrod to the second hole of
the servo arm using a nylon Faslink to secure it.
8. Bend the pushrod 90° and trim the excess pushrod so
❏
that at least 1/4" [6.4mm] of pushrod remains. Connect the
pushrod to the second hole of the servo arm. Use a nylon
Faslink to secure the pushrod.
9. Fit the other pushrod to the rudder guide tube on the
❏
right side of the fuselage.
MOTOR, ESC, & RADIO INSTALLATION
1. Install the
❏
standard X-mount
to the back of the
Rimfire .32 motor
using the screws
supplied with the
motor. Apply a drop
of threadlocker to
the threads before
installing the screws.
10. Assemble the rudder horn as shown in the sketch. Fit
❏
a #6 flat washer under the head of the 6-32 x 2" machine
screw and fit the screw to the rudder so that the head of the
screw is on the left side of the rudder. Use a #6 flat washer
2. Orient the motor wires as shown and attach the motor
❏
to the firewall with four 4-40 x 1/2" socket head cap screws,
four #4 lock washers and four #4 flat washers. Use thread
locking compound on the screw threads for added security.
18
Page 19
3. Mix up some 6-minute epoxy and thin it down with
❏
some denatured alcohol. Brush it onto the ESC tray and the
battery tray to prepare the wood. Allow the epoxy to cure.
4. Cut 5" of non-adhesive backed hook and loop material.
❏
Separate the hook side from the loop side and join the two
pieces so that 1-1/2" [38mm] overlaps in the middle.
6. Cut a 1-1/2" [38mm] piece of adhesive backed hook
❏
and loop material. Stick one side to the back of the ESC and
the other side to the ESC tray. Clean the back side of your
ESC with some denatured alcohol before you stick the hook
and loop material onto it.
7. Glue the ESC tray into the fuselage as shown. Fit the
❏
ESC. Connect the ESC leads to the motor leads.
5. Cut a 1-1/4" [32mm] and a 3/4" [19.1mm] piece of adhesive
❏
backed hook and loop material. Stick the hook side to the battery
tray as shown. Fit the strap you made to the battery tray
.
8. Use the remaining adhesive backed hook and loop
❏
material to attach your receiver to the radio equipment tray.
Connect the elevator and rudder servo leads to the receiver.
Plug a Y-connector into the aileron channel and a Y-connector
into the flap channel (if you are using flaps). Connect the
ESC servo plug to the throttle channel on your receiver.
19
Page 20
9. Test the motor for proper operation. If the motor does
❏
not spin in the correct direction, unplug two of the motor
wires from the ESC and swap the position of the two wires.
Test the motor once again to confirm. Warning: Do not install
the propeller until you have performed this check and have
determined that the motor works properly.
COWL & PROPELLER INSTALLATION
1. Cut out the center of the dummy engine to allow access
❏
for the prop adapter. Use a rotary tool with a sanding drum
to smooth the edges.
10. If you have a 72MHz radio system, route your antenna
❏
through the antenna tube.
11. Route the Y-connector(s) through the cabin floor
❏
panel. Hold the panel in place against the pre-installed rails
and drill six 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the rails using the holes
in the floor panel as guides. Install the cabin floor using six
#2 x 3/8" sheetmetal screws and six #2 flat washers.
2. Pushrod tubes are provided for you if you choose to
❏
detail the dummy engine. Drill a hole in the bottom of the
rocker cover and a corresponding hole in the crank case using
a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. To start the hole, use your hobby knife
and poke a small “starter hole” to keep your drill centered.
3. Install the aluminum pushrod tubes from the inside.
❏
Glue them in place.
20
Page 21
4. Use a sharp hobby knife or small sanding drum to
❏
remove the plastic between the dummy engine cylinders.
Leave a 20mm wide ring around the edge of the dummy
engine. Use sand paper to remove the paint from the lip of
the dummy engine. Clean the lip using denatured alcohol.
5. Sand the inside of the cowl near the rear lip and where
❏
the dummy engine will mount. Clean the surfaces you just
sanded using denatured alcohol.
#4 lock washers and four #4 flat washers. Use a 3/32" ball
wrench (GPMR8002) to tighten the screws.
8. Slide the cowl over the cowl ring and center the motor
❏
prop adapter in the dummy engine. Install a propeller to
check that it rotates without rubbing on the cowl or dummy
engine. Make any adjustments to the dummy engine or cowl
so that the propeller spins freely. Note: The cowl ring should
be at the back edge of the cowl when everything is positioned
correctly.
6. Fit the dummy engine inside the cowl. Position it as far
❏
forward as possible, aligning the rocker arm covers with the
blisters on the cowl. Apply epoxy along the seam between
the dummy engine and the cowl.
7. Temporarily attach the plywood cowl ring to the fuselage
❏
with four 4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] socket head cap screws, four
9. Remove the cowl and the cowl ring. Cut the fuselage
❏
bag (you did keep the bag, right?) 12" [305mm] from the
closed end. Slide the bag over the front of the fuselage. A
hole will need to be cut for the motor. Also cut four small
holes for the cowl ring screws. Reinstall the cowl ring with the
4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] socket head screws.
21
Page 22
10. Apply a thin layer of 6-minute epoxy along the inside
❏
edge of the cowl. Slide the cowl over the cowl ring and
position the cowl so that one of the dummy engine cylinders
is straight up and the prop adapter is centered.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
1.
Connect the aileron and flap servo leads to the
❏
Y-connectors. Install the wing using two 1/4-20 nylon wing bolts.
2. Identify the two right wing struts. Use the picture above
❏
to identify the proper orientation of each strut.
11. Once the epoxy has cured, remove the cowl and
❏
plastic bag. To increase the strength of the joint between the
cowl and cowl ring, apply a small fillet of epoxy on the inside
of the cowl ring.
12. Once the epoxy has cured, reinstall the cowl using
❏
the 4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] socket head cap screws, #4 lock
washers and #4 flat washers.
3. Turn the model over and install the wing struts onto
❏
the wing and the fuselage using three 2-56 x 1/2" [12.7mm]
machine screws, three #2 lock washers, and three #2 flat
washers. Add a bit of thread locking compound to the screw
threads for added security. Lay the front strut over the rear
strut at the fuselage attachment point. Then, install the screw.
4. Identify the left wing struts and install them using
❏
three 2-56 x 1/2" [12.7mm] machine screws, three #2 lock
washers, and three #2 flat washers.
13. Install the propeller using the prop washer and nut
❏
that came with the motor. Tighten the prop nut securely.
5. Install the left and right wheel pants using four 4-40 x
❏
1/2" [12.7mm] SHCS, four #4 lock washers, and four #4 flat
washers.
22
Page 23
Pilot Installation (Optional)
Apply the Decals
To install a pilot figure, please use the Great Planes 1/5th
scale sport pilot. This is available in red, yellow, or blue. Please
see the parts list earlier in this manual for these part numbers.
1. Cut the pilot figure down to 3" [76mm] using a razor
❏
saw or your hobby knife. Sand the bottom of the figure flat
using a belt sander or a sanding block.
1. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap
and water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though
the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer
type, submersing them in soap & water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
2. Position decal on the model where desired. Use the
photos on the box for reference. Holding the decal down,
use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
3. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
2. Sand the inside surface of the pilot figure and clean it
❏
with denatured alcohol. Cut and glue a wooden base (not
included) inside the pilot figure using 6-minute epoxy. Let the
epoxy cure.
3. Glue the pilot figure in the cockpit.
❏
4. Install the canopy.
❏
4. We have also included a template for the passenger door.
Turn to the back of this manual and cut this out. Hold it up to
the right hand side of the model and trace the outline of the
door onto the fuselage using a panel line pen.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Center the Controls and
Check the Control Directions
Warning: Once the battery is connected to the ESC, stay
clear of the propeller!
1. Turn on the transmitter, center the trims, and move the
❏
throttle stick all the way down. Plug your airplane’s battery
into the ESC.
2. Check to see that the controls are centered. If any
❏
control requires adjustment, remove the clevis and tighten
or loosen it to adjust the length of the pushrod. Tighten the
clevis to “shorten” the pushrod or loosen it to “lengthen” the
pushrod. Reinstall the clevis snapping closed the arms, and
fit the silicone retainer over the clevis arms to secure it. If you
have to remove a servo arm to make an adjustment, don’t
forget to reinstall the locking screw.
23
Page 24
4-CHANNEL RADIO SET UP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
RIGHT AILERON
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
FULL
THROTTLE
3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the throttle
❏
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram.
If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use
the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
1. Use a Great Planes AccuThrow™ gauge, a ruler, or an
❏
inclinometer to accurately measure and set the control throw
of each control surface as indicated in the chart that follows.
If your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend
setting the throws at the LOW rate setting. Under normal
circumstances, and if you have both high and low rates set
up, you will perform takeoffs and landings using high rate
aileron and elevator and then switch to low rates for flight.
With this model, we recommend using high rate rudder only
during taxi on the ground. Switch to low rate rudder before
you initiate your takeoff.
2. When setting up flaps for this model, please use only
❏
the amount that we suggest below. This is the right amount
required to slow the model down without causing it to balloon
up excessively.
Set the Control Throws
To ensure a successful first flight, fly your model set up only
according to the C.G. and control surface throws specified in
this manual. The throws and C.G. are not arbitrary, but have
been determined through extensive testing and accurate
record-keeping. This provides you with the best chance for
success and enjoyable first flights that should be surprisefree. Additionally, the throws and C.G. shown are true, real
data which will allow the model to perform in the manner in
which it was intended when flown by a pilot of the skill level
for which it was intended. DO NOT OVERLOOK THESE
IMPORTANT PROCEDURES. A model that is not properly
setup may be unstable and possibly unflyable.
The building steps earlier in this manual that show the
mechanical setup for the elevator, rudder, and aileron
linkages show you the best way to configure the linkages to
achieve the proper throws using Futaba servos and a Futaba
radio system. If you are using a different radio system or
you cannot achieve the proper control throws using our
suggested linkage configuration, you may have to install the
pushrods in different holes on the servo arms or the control
horns. Keep in mind that changing the throws mechanically
is preferred to changing them using your radio’s end-point
adjustment. End points can be used to “fine-tune” to get the
proper throws.
24
These are the recommended control surface throws:
HIGH RATELOW RATE
[16 mm]
ELEVATOR
Right
[19 mm]
RUDDERAILERONSFLAPS
[22 mm]
Up
5/8"
12°
3/4"
13°
Up
7/8"
22°
Down
5/8"
[16 mm]
12°
Left
3/4"
[19 mm]
13°
Down
7/8"
[22 mm]
22°
11/16"
[17 mm]
16°
Up
1/2"
[13 mm]
9°
Right
5/8"
[16 mm]
11°
Up
5/8"
[16 mm]
15°
Down
1/2"
[13 mm]
9°
Left
5/8"
[16 mm]
11°
Down
5/8"
[16 mm]
15°
Page 25
Balance the Model (C.G.)
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the motor, prop,
landing gear, radio system, wheel pants, struts, and battery
hatch (canopy).
1. Turn the model over and mark the C.G. location on the
❏
bottom of the wing using a felt-tip pen. The C.G., or balance
point, is located at 2-1/4" [57mm] back from the leading edge
of the wing at the wing root. This is where your plane should
balance and fly for the first few flights. Note: It is permissible
to fly the airplane with the C.G. up to 1/4" [6.4mm] forward or
1/4" [6.4mm] aft of this point. Do not fly outside of the listed
C.G. range!
To ensure a successful first flight, fly your Mr. Mulligan set
up only according to the C.G. and control surface throws
specified in this manual. The throws and C.G. are not
arbitrary, but have been determined through extensive
testing and accurate record-keeping. This provides you
with the best chance for success and enjoyable first flights
that should be surprise-free. Additionally, the throws and
C.G. shown are true, real data which will allow the model to
perform in the manner in which it was intended when flown
by a pilot of the skill level for which it was intended. DO
NOT OVERLOOK THESE IMPORTANT PROCEDURES.
A model that is not properly setup will be dangerous,
unstable, and possibly unflyable.
2. Strap the battery to the battery tray, but do not connect
❏
it. Fit the canopy. Suspend the model upright by placing your
fingers on the marks you made.
3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
❏
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must
be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the
model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver
must be shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to
balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver
to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast required. If
additional weight is required, nose weight may be easily
added by using a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz.
[28g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). If
spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add
stick-on nose weight is to the structure around the firewall
(don’t attach weight to the cowl—it is not intended to support
weight). Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts
of weight on the bottom of the fuse over the firewall until the
model balances. Once you have determined the amount of
weight required, it can be permanently attached. If required,
tail weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the
fuse and gluing it permanently inside.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Use #2 sheet-metal
screws or epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any
❏
weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
Balance the Model Laterally
1. With the wings level, have an assistant help you lift
❏
the model by the propeller shaft and the bottom of the fuse
under the TE of the fin. Do this several times.
2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it
❏
means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding
weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally
balanced will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
25
Page 26
PREFLIGHT
MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number on
or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying
sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the included
identification tag on page 29 and place it on or inside your
model.
Balance Propellers
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most significant
cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only
will motor mounting screws loosen, possibly with disastrous
effect, but vibration may also damage your radio gear.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate electric motors.
• Use safety glasses when operating motors.
• Do not operate the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you operate
the motor.
• Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, sweater strings, ties, scarves, long hair or loose
objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of
shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.
• Always keep your radio on when plugging the motor
batteries into the ESC.
• Stay clear of the propeller at all times: Some ESC units do
not have safety arming features, so any movement of the
throttle stick may cause the propeller to turn.
• Always use a charger designed to charge LiPo batteries for
charging the LiPo flight battery.
• Never leave the LiPo battery unattended while charging. If
the battery becomes hot, discontinue charging.
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
Range Check
When you get to your flying site ground check the operational
range of the radio before the first flight of the day. With the
transmitter antenna collapsed or the transmitter in “power
down” mode and the receiver and transmitter on, you should
be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and
still have control. Have an assistant stand by your model
and, while you work the controls, tell you what the control
surfaces are doing. Repeat this test with the motor running
at various speeds with an assistant holding the model, using
hand signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and correct
the problem first. Look for loose servo or battery connections,
damaged wires or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous
crash in another model. One other possible source of radio
“noise” that could cause interference is the arrangement and
relative location of the receiver, receiver antenna and motor
wires. If possible, remount the receiver in a different location
or reroute some of the wires. Then try the range check again.
General
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows,
or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be
airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer
shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
26
Page 27
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with flying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing flying site except in accordance
with the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the
complete AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
11. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
❏
appropriate (servo mounting screws, etc.).
12. Check that all servo connectors are fully plugged into
❏
their respective channels on the receiver.
13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
❏
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
14. Check the receiver for secure attachment. This must
❏
not be “stuffed into place.”
15. Balance your model laterally as explained in the
❏
instructions.
16. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
❏
provided in the manual.
17. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone
❏
number on or inside your model.
18. Fully charge your transmitter battery and check the
❏
battery voltage after it is charged.
19. Range-check your radio at the flying field.
❏
20. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction
❏
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
21. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
❏
your first flight.
FLYING
CHECK LIST
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the fi rst fl ight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before
the model is fl own. To help avoid this, a check list is provided
to make sure these important areas are not overlooked.
Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where
appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions.
Be sure to check the items off as they are completed.
1. Check the motor for secure attachment.
❏
2. Check the cowl for secure attachment.
❏
3. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏
4. Tighten the propeller nut and check to make sure that a
❏
prop washer is in place.
5. Rotate the propeller a full turn. Check for free rotation
❏
of the prop. Make sure that the dummy engine does not
interfere with rotation.
6. Check the wheels for free rotation, the axles and landing
❏
gear for security, and add a drop of light machine oil to the
axles.
7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏
8. Check the control horns for secure attachment to the
❏
control surfaces.
9. Pull/push on each of the pushrods and check to see that
❏
the adjustable pushrod connectors do not slip.
10. Check the servo arms for secure attachment and make
❏
sure that the arm screws are in place and are tight.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such
as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface
flutter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an
aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such as a wing or
stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise).
In extreme cases, if not detected immediately, flutter can
actually cause the control surface to detach or the flying
surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by
an impending crash. The best thing to do when flutter is
detected is to slow the model immediately by reducing
power, then land as soon as safely possible. Identify which
surface fluttered (so the problem may be resolved) by
checking all the servo grommets for deterioration or signs of
vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are secure and
free of play. If it fluttered once, under similar circumstances
it will probably flutter again unless the problem is fixed.
Some things which can cause flutter are; Excessive hinge
gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis
pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused by large
bends; Excessive free play in servo gears; Insecure servo
mounting; and one of the most prevalent causes of flutter;
Flying an overpowered model at excessive speeds.
Takeoff
The goals of your first flight should be to trim the airplane
Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds on
the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on the
ground. If necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model will
roll straight down the runway.
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Takeoff directly into the wind. Gradually advance the throttle
while holding a bit of up elevator to keep the tail on the ground
to maintain tail wheel steering. Also start applying right rudder.
If the throttle is advanced too quickly, the plane will want to
turn quickly to the left. As the model gains speed, decrease
up elevator allowing the tail to come off the ground. Gain as
much speed as your runway and flying site will practically
allow before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into
the air. Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing the model to
establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning into
the traffic pattern.
Flight
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you. On
the first flight the assistant can help you adjust the trims.
In the air, the Mister Mulligan flies similar to a sport plane.
It can perform the basic aerobatic maneuvers; loops, rolls,
stall turns and wing overs. Be mindful of the flight time. With
electric planes it is best to have a timer set so that the plane
can be landed with power to spare, just in case you have to
abort the landing and go around. A dead stick with an electric
plane is the same as a dead stick with a glow plane. Risky!
Landing
RBefore the battery power drops, make a few passes with
the flaps down to see how the plane slows down. If this is
your first plane equipped with flaps, here are a couple of
notes on how to land with flaps. Only lower the flaps at half
throttle or less. When the flaps are lowered, the plane will
balloon up slightly, then, level off as the speed slows. On final
approach, keep the power on and control the descent with
the throttle. The plane will land slower with flaps than without.
Don’t let the plane get to slow, even with flaps the plane can
tip stall if it gets too slow.
One final note about flying the Mister Mulligan. Have a goal or
flight plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you
are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A flight plan greatly
reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of
poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Have a ball!
But always stay in control and fly in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCKAND GREAT FLYING!
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Cut
Align these dashed lines
with the other windows.
DOOR TEMPLATE
Note: Door is only
on RH side.
Cut
29
This model belongs to:
Name
Address
City, State, Zip
Phone Number
AMA Number
Page 30
NOTES
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