INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Wingspan: 39.5 in [1005 mm]
Length: 34 in [865 mm]
Wing Area: 290 sq in [18.7 dm2]
Weight: 41-45 oz [1160-1275 g]
Wing Loading: 20.4-22.3 oz/sq ft [62-68 g /dm2]
Engine: .25 cu in [4cc] 2stroke, .30 cu in [5cc] 4-stroke
Motor: 35-36-1200KV brushless out-runner motor with Silver Series 45A ESC.
Radio: 4-5 channel transmitter, 4-5 micro servos
WARRANTY
Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date
of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or
material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the userassembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Entire Contents © Copyright 2008
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place
of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby
Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number,
fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem
and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the
package, the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
Champaign, Illinois
(217) 398-8970, Ext 5
airsupport@greatplanes.com
GPMA1479 Mnl
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION ................................2
AMA ..........................................2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .........................2
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ....................3
Radio Equipment .............................3
Power System Recommendations................3
Batteries and Charger .........................4
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED...................4
Required Hardware and Accessories .............4
Adhesives and Building Supplies.................4
Optional Supplies and Tools ....................4
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ...................5
KIT INSPECTION ...............................5
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS ...............5
KIT CONTENTS.................................6
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS ......................6
PREPARATIONS ................................7
BUILD THE WING ...............................7
Install the Aileron Servos and Pushrods ...........7
Join the Wing ................................8
BUILD THE FUSELAGE ..........................9
Install the Horizontal Stabilizer and Vertical Fin .....9
Install the Elevator and Rudder Pushrods & Servos . 11
Glow Engine and Fuel Tank Installation...........12
Out-runner Motor and Battery Installation .........14
FINISH THE MODEL ............................18
Install the Cowl..............................18
Install the Radio Gear ........................18
Optional Landing Gear........................19
Installing the Belly Pan and Cannons ............20
Apply the Decals ............................21
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY ................21
Check the Control Directions...................21
Set the Control Throws .......................22
Balance the Model (C.G.) .....................22
Balance the Model Laterally ...................23
PREFLIGHT...................................23
Identify Your Model ..........................23
Charge the Batteries .........................23
Balance Propellers...........................23
Ground Check ..............................23
Range Check ...............................23
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .................24
LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING AND USAGE .......24
AMA SAFETY CODE ...........................24
General ...................................24
Radio Control ...............................25
CHECK LIST ..................................25
FLYING.......................................25
Fuel Mixture Adjustments .....................26
Take off ....................................26
Flight .....................................26
Landing ...................................26
Congratulations on your purchase of one of the Great Planes
Combat Class #2610 Fighters! The Combat P-47 ARF is a
great flying model and is suitable for both combat flying and
sport flying. Accommodations have been provided for both a
glow engine and a brushless out-runner motor. The optional
landing gear gives the sport flyer the comfort of landing on
paved runways.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Combat P-47 ARF visit the Great Planes web site at www.
greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, and then select
the Combat P-47 ARF. If there is new technical information
or changes to this model, a “tech notice” box will appear in
the upper left corner of the page.
AMA
W e u rg e y o u t o j o i n t he A M A (A ca de my o f M od el Aer on au ti cs )
and a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of
model aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA
clubs. Though joining the AMA provides many benefits,
one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection.
Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club
field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and
air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts
printed in the back of the manual) may endanger insurance
coverage. Additionally, training programs and instructors are
available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right
way. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the
country. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can
do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to
avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or
over groups of people.
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS… FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Combat P-47 ARF should not be considered a toy,
but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Combat P-47 ARF, if not assembled and
2
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
This is a partial list of items required to finish the Combat P-47
ARF that may require planning or decision making before
starting to build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
Radio Equipment
The Combat P-47 ARF requires a minimum 4-channel radio
system with four 35 oz.-in. [2.5 kg-cm] minimum micro
servos. If you are installing a glow engine, an additional
micro servo is required for the throttle.
In addition, two 9" [229mm] servo extensions are required
for the aileron servos. If you are using a radio system that
does not support mixing functions, a Y-harness will also
be required to connect the aileron servos to the receiver. If
using an electric motor, a 6" extension will be needed for the
ESC. Recommended part numbers are provided below:
4 or 5 Futaba S3115 Servo Micro Precision
o
(FU TM0415 )
2 Futaba 9" [229mm] Servo Extensions (FUTM3910)
o
Futaba 6" [152mm] Servo Extension J (HCAM2000)
o
Futaba 6" [152mm] Dual Servo Extension J
o
(FU TM4130 )
8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
9. WARNING: T h e c o w l i n c l u d e d i n t h i s k i t i s m a d e o f f i b e r g l a s s ,
the fibers of which may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract
irritation. Never blow into a part to remove fiberglass dust, as
the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety
goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding,
drilling and sanding fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and
the work area thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the
instructions to end up with a well-built model that
is straight and true.
Power System Recommendations
The recommended engine/motor size for the Combat P-47
ARF is a .25 two-stroke engine or a RimFire™ C35-361200kV brushless outrunner motor. Engine and motor order
numbers are provided below:
O.S.® .25 FX Non-Ringed w/Muffler (OSMG0525)
o
Great Planes RimFire .15 OutRunner Brushless
o
Motor (GPMG4620)
If using the recommended brushless motor, the Great Planes
SS-45 brushless ESC is required. Bullet connector adapters
are also required. The adapters can be purchased preassembled, or the individual components can be purchased
to make your own.
Great Planes Silver Series 45A Brushless ESC
o
5V/2A BEC (GPMM1840)
Great Planes 4mm Male to 3.5mm Female Bullet
o
Connector Adapters (GPMM3123)
If you wish to make your own adapters, the following part
numbers will be needed:
Great Planes Gold Plated Bullet Connectors Female
o
3.5mm (GPMM3113)
3
Great Planes Gold Plated Bullet Connectors Male
o
4mm (GPMM3114)
W.S. Deans Racing Silver Solder 1 oz. (WSDC4030)
o
Hobbico® Soldering Iron 60 Watt (HCAR0776)
o
Batteries and Charger
For a brushless motor installation, a 3200mAh 11.1V Lithium
Polymer battery pack is recommended. The order number
for the battery pack is provided below:
Great Planes LiPo 3200mAh 11.1V 20C Discharge w/
o
Balance (GPMP0623)
A cell balancer is required for the LiPo battery pack
listed above:
Great Planes ElectriFly™ Equinox™ LiPo Cell Balancer
o
1-5 (GPMM3160)
1/2 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
o
Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
o
Masking tape (TOPR8018)
o
Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060)
o
Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
o
Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 1/8" [3.2mm],
o
5/32" [4mm]
Great Planes 10-Piece Metric Tap & Drill Set
o
(GPMR8118) (3mm tap & drill is needed)
Tap handle (GPMR8120)
o
R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
o
Small metal file
o
#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
o
#11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
o
Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)
o
Top Flite® MonoKote sealing iron (TOPR2100)
o
Top Flite Hot Sock™ iron cover (TOPR2175)
o
Optional Supplies and Tools
A suitable charger is also required. The Great Planes
PolyCharge4™ is designed for LiPo packs only and is able
to charge four LiPo packs simultaneously. The Great Planes
Triton2™ charger will only charge one pack at a time, but is
capable of charging NiCd, NiMH, LiPo, and Pb acid batteries.
Order numbers for both are provided below:
Great Planes PolyCharge4™ DC Only 4 Output LiPo
o
Charger (GPMM3015)
OR
Great Planes ElectriFly Triton2™ DC Comp Peak
o
Charger (GPMM3153)
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Required Hardware and Accessories
This is the list of hardware and accessories required to
finish the Combat P-47 ARF. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses:
R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] - HCAQ1000, or 1/2"
o
[13mm] - HCAQ1050)
3' [900mm] standard silicone fuel tubing
o
(GPMQ4131)
Adhesives and Building Supplies
This is the list of Adhesives and Building Supplies that are
required to finish the Combat P-47 ARF:
1/2 oz. Thin Pro™ CA (GPMR6001)
o
1/2 oz. Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013)
o
Here is a list of optional tools that will help you build the
Combat P-47 ARF:
2 oz. spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
o
4 oz. aerosol CA activator (GPMR6034)
o
CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
o
CA debonder (GPMR6039)
o
Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
o
Epoxy brushes 6, (GPMR8060)
o
Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
o
Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
o
Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
o
Hobbico Duster™ can of compressed air (HCAR5500)
o
Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set (GPMM1000)
o
Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
o
Rotary tool such as Dremel® (DRER0550)
o
Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8020)
o
Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)
o
Hobby Heat™ micro torch (HCAR0750)
o
Dead Center™ Engine Mount Hole Locator
o
(GPMR8130)
Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)
o
Ac cuT hrow™ Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)
o
CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)
o
Hobbico Flexible 18" Ruler Stainless Steel
o
(HCAR0460)
Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)
o
Top Flite MonoKote heat gun (TOPR2000)
o
Hobbico Pin Vise 1/16 Collet w/6 Bits (HCAR0696)
o
Hobbico 8-Piece Ball Tip Hex L Wrench SAE
o
(HCAR0520)
Hobbico 7-Piece Ball Tip Hex L Wrench Metric
o
(HCAR0521)
Great Planes Clevis Installation Tool (GPMR8030)
o
X-Acto® Extra Hands Double Clip (XACR4214)
o
4
Order
Number
Description
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
How to
purchase
Instruction manual
Missing pieces
Full-size plans
Wing Set P-47 .25 GP/EP ARF
Fuse Kit P-47 .25 GP/EP ARF
Tail Set P-47 .25 GP/EP ARF
Belly Pan P-47 .25 GP/EP ARF
Cowl P-47 .25 GP/EP ARF
Canopy P-47 .25 GP/EP ARF
Landing Gear P-47 .25 GP/EP ARF
Decal Set P-47 .25 GP/EP ARF
Spinner Nut P-47 .25 GP/EP ARF
Battery Hatch P-47 .25 GP/EP ARF
Engine Mount
GPMA3208
GPMA3209
GPMA3210
GPMA3211
GPMA3212
GPMA3213
GPMA3214
GPMA3215
GPMA3216
GPMA3226
GPMA2827
Contact
Product
Support
Not
available
Contact
your
hobby
supplier to
purchase
these
items
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
There are two types of screws used in this kit:
•
Self-tapping screws are designated
by a number and a length. For example,
#6 x 3/4" [19mm].
Machine screws are designated by a
number, threads per inch, and a length.
For example, 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].
Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
are designated by a number, threads
per inch, and a length. For example,
4-40 x 3/4" [19mm]
When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it
•
means that you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, and then slightly modify or custom
fit the part as necessary for the best fit.
Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
•
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either 30-
•
minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you
use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will
need the working time and/or the additional strength.
Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
•
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.
The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
•
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fly, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make
sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure
they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or
are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance
with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting
defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as
they are written in the Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
KIT INSPECTION
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Combat P-47
ARF are available using the order numbers in the
Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most
economical service can be provided by your hobby dealer
or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico web site at www.
hobbico.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the bottom of the
menu on the left side of the page. Follow the instructions
provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian or
International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721,
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa® or MasterCard®
number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason contact
Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.
com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
5
5
KIT CONTENTS
1
2
4
1. Fuselage and hatch
2. Horizontal stabilizer and elevators
3. Canopy
4. Vertical stabilizer and rudder
5
6
10
Kit Contents
5. Air scoop
6. Belly pan
7. Cowl
8. Landing gear and wheels
3
7
88
11
9
9. Engine mount
10. Right wing panel and aileron
11. Left wing panel and aileron
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
Fuse = Fuselage
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Vertical Stabilizer
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4 (25.4mm = 1")
Ply = Plywood
“ = Inches
in = Inches
mm = Millimeters
ESC = Electronic Speed Control
LiPo = Lithium Polymer Battery
6
PREPARATIONS
If you have not done so already, remove the major parts
o 1.
of the kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any parts
are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the
address or telephone number listed in the “Kit Inspection”
section on page 5.
Remove the tape and separate the aileron servo
o 2.
hatches from the wing. Use a covering iron with a covering
sock to tighten the covering if necessary. Apply pressure
over sheeted areas to thoroughly bond the covering to
the wood.
2. Place the servo onto the hatch in the location it is
o o
going to be mounted. Mark the center of each of the servo
mounting holes on the blocks. Using a 1/16" (1.6mm) drill
bit, drill a pilot hole in the location of the mark. Install the
rubber grommets and eyelets that were included with the
servo, and mount the servo to the blocks using the servo
screws included with the servo. Remove the servo screw
and servo, and apply two drops of thin CA to the holes.
Allow a few moments for the glue to cure. Once the glue
has cured, center the servo, using the radio, and install the
servo using the hardware provided with the servo. Remove
the extra arms from the servo horn.
BUILD THE WING
Install the Aileron Servos
and Pushrods
1. Locate the servo hatch from the underside of the
o o
wing that was set aside and the four 1/2" x 15/64" x 3/8"
[12.7mm x 6mm x 9.5mm] blocks of wood. These will be
used to hold the aileron servos to the servo hatch. The
location of the servo blocks has been marked for you on
the underside of the aileron servo hatch. If you are using a
different servo from the recommended Futaba S3115, you
will need to verify these markings are in the appropriate
location for your servo. Glue the mounting blocks to the
underside of the hatch using 6 minute epoxy.
3. Locate a 9" [229mm] servo extension and attach
o o
it to the aileron servo. Secure the extension using a length
of 3/8" [9.5mm] heat shrink tubing, or electrical tape. Look
inside the wing and locate the string. Tie the end of the string
to the end of the extension. The other end of the string is
taped to the root of the wing half. Using the string, guide the
servo extension through the wing and out of the wing root.
Untie the string from the servo extension and feed the end
of the servo extension through the hole located in the top of
the wing.
4. Install the aileron servo hatch using four of the 2mm
o o
wood screws provided. Hold a straight edge flush with the
top of the servo arm and mark where the ruler intersects the
aileron leading edge.
7
CONTROL HORNS
Please note that there are two different types of control
horns included. The control horns with the larger holes
are meant for use with the Aileron pushrod clevises. The
control horns with the smaller holes are meant for use
with the Elevator and Rudder z-bends.
5. Place the large hole aileron control horn on the
o o
aileron, centering it on the mark you made in step 15. Use
a T-pin to mark the center of the holes. Use a 5/64" [2mm]
drill bit to drill into the aileron at the markings you just made.
Remove the mark you made on the aileron using some
denatured alcohol and a paper towel.
9. Place a silicone clevis keeper on the pushrod. Then
o o
place a FasLink™ on the pushrod and remove the excess
pushrod with a rotary tool or diagonal pliers. Connect the
clevis to the control horn but do not snap in place. Connect
the bent end to the servo. Re-center the servo and adjust the
linkage by screwing the clevis either in or out until the aileron
is straight. Once the aileron is straight, snap the clevis in
place. Attach the FasLink™ and slide the clevis keeper over
the clevis.
10. Repeat steps 1-9 for the other wing.
o
Join the Wing
6. Install the control horns using two 2 x 15mm [5/8"]
o o
machine screws and the control horn back plates. The ends
of the screws can be cut flush with the back plates using
diagonal pliers or a rotary tool.
7. Locate the 2 aileron pushrods, 2 nylon clevises, and
o o
2 nylon FasLinks™. Screw the clevis onto the threaded end
of the pushrod by rotating the clevis 18 complete revolutions.
A Great Planes 4-in-1 Installation Tool (GPMR8035) makes
this task much easier.
8. Place the clevis in the control horn without snapping
o o
it shut. Center the aileron and mark the center of the servo
arm on the pushrod. Remove the clevis from the horn and
make a 90 degree bend in the pushrod at the mark. Using a
5/64" [2mm] drill bit, enlarge the outer servo horn hole.
1. Locate the two plywood wing joiners. Place them on
o
top of each other and test fit them into both wing halves. The
joiners should fit slightly loose to allow room for epoxy. If the
joiner is too snug, sand the joiners until they fit properly.
8
2. Note: Before beginning this step be sure to have plenty
o
of alcohol and paper towels handy to clean up any excess
epoxy. Mix approximately 1/2 oz [15cc] of 30-minute epoxy.
Apply a liberal amount of epoxy into the joiner pocket of
each wing, both sides of each wing joiner, and the root rib
of each wing. Insert the joiner into one wing panel and then
slide the other panel onto the joiner. Push the two halves
together firmly, making sure there are no gaps anywhere
between the wings. Clean any excess epoxy from the wing
surface with alcohol. Hold the wings together with masking
tape until the epoxy has completely cured.
4. Remove the wing bolt plate. Trim the covering just inside
o
your lines. Wipe away the lines with alcohol. Glue the wing
bolt plate to the wing, using 6 minute epoxy or thick CA.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
Install the Horizontal Stabilizer
and Vertical Fin
3. Align the wing bolt plate over the holes on the underside
o
of the wing. There is a shallow perforation on the uncovered
side of the plate to allow you to bend the plate to match
the dihedral of the wing. Place the wing bolt plate over the
underside of the wing and place the wing bolts into the two
holes to keep the plate aligned. Use a fine, felt-tip marker to
trace around the plate onto the wing.
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the area
beneath the wing bolt plate. The tip of the soldering iron
doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine tip does work best.
Allow the iron to heat fully.
1. To properly align the stabilizer in the fuse, the wing
o
will need to be temporarily installed. Attach the wing
using the two 3 x 25mm [1"] machine screws and two
3mm flat washers.
Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate
that will just melt the covering and not burn into the wood.
The hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to
melt a fine cut. Peel off the covering.
2. Remove the strip of balsa at the tail of the horizontal
o
stabilizer slot in the fuselage using a hobby knife, as shown.
9
3. Locate the horizontal stabilizer and slide it through the
o
slot in the fuselage. Using a ruler, center the trailing edge of
the stabilizer by measuring from the fuselage to the tip of the
stabilizer on both sides.
4. Once the trailing edge of the stabilizer has been
o
centered, insert a T-pin in both sides of the trailing edge
as shown. This will hold the trailing edge in place while it is
aligned with the fuselage.
6. Remove the T-pins and the stabilizer. Using a straight
o
edge, connect the marks you made with the T-pins. The
covering slightly inside the marks should be removed. If
there is more than 5/32" [3mm] of covering in between the
marks and the already cut portion of the covering, remove
that section of the covering. Be careful not to cut into the
wood when removing the covering.
7. Place some oil or petroleum jelly on the elevator joiner
o
and insert the stabilizer into the fuselage. Reinsert the T-pins
into the trailing edge of the stabilizer. View the stabilizer
standing approximately 6' [2.5m] behind the airplane. Make
sure the horizontal stabilizer and the wing are aligned. If
they are not, add weight to the high side of the horizontal
stabilizer. Re-measure the horizontal stabilizer (steps 3 & 5)
to be certain nothing has shifted.
5. A mark has been provided in the center of the front
o
former. Insert a T-pin on this mark, attach a string or a tape
measure to the T-pin, and adjust the horizontal stabilizer
by rotating it until the distance to either side of the trailing
edge is equal. Once you are satisfied that the horizontal
stabilizer is aligned correctly, as shown, place a T-pin in
the leading edge of the stabilizer to mark where it intersects
the fuselage.
8. Once you are certain everything is aligned properly, use
o
some thin CA glue or epoxy to glue the stabilizer in place.
9. Locate the CA hinge. Insert a T-pin into the center of
o
the hinge. Insert one half of the hinge into the bottom portion
of the rudder, as shown.
10
10. Insert the vertical stabilizer into the slot in the fuselage.
o
When you slide the vertical into place, slide the other half
of the rudder hinge into the bottom of the fuselage. Once
the vertical stabilizer has been inserted into the fuselage
and the rudder hinge is in place, remove the T-pin from the
rudder hinge.
11. Use a builder’s triangle to be sure the vertical stabilizer
o
is at a 90 degree angle with the horizontal stabilizer. If it is
not, apply masking tape to the fuselage and to the tip of the
vertical stabilizer to gently position it. Once you are certain
the alignment is correct, use thin CA or epoxy to glue the
stabilizer in place. Allow a few minutes for the glue to cure
and then remove the tape.
2. Hook a small hole nylon control horn onto the Z-bend in
o
the pushrod wire. Align the control horn onto the underside
of the left elevator half and position the holes over the hinge
line, matching the angle of the pushrod. When satisfied,
mark the locations for the control horn mounting screws.
Drill the holes using a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit and install a small
hole control horn with two 2 x 15mm [5/8"] machine screws
and a control horn back plate.
12. Add six drops of thin CA glue to each side of the
o
rudder hinge you installed. Allow a few minutes for the glue
to cure. Free the rudder hinge by flexing it.
Install the Elevator and Rudder
Pushrods and Servos
3. Using a pair of diagonal pliers, remove the ends
o
of the machine screw that protrude through the control
horn backplate.
1. Insert one of the 19-3/4" [502mm] long pushrod wires
o
through the left pushrod exit slot into the fuselage.
4. With the other 19-3/4" [502mm] long pushrod, install a
o
small hole control horn on the right side of the rudder in the
same manner.
11
5. Using the hardware supplied with the servos, install
o
the elevator and rudder servo into the servo tray with the
servo spines facing forward, in the locations shown. Be sure
to reinforce the servo mounting screw holes with thin CA. as
was done on the aileron servo mounting holes.
and attach the servo arms to the servos using the servo
arm screws included with the servos. With the elevators
and rudder centered, thread a 3mm set screw into the
tops of the pushrod connectors and tighten it against the
pushrod wires. Cut away the excess pushrod wires beyond
the pushrod connectors.
Glow Engine and Fuel Tank Installation
The Combat P-47 ARF is designed to be flown with a .25
glow engine or a brushless out-runner motor. If you plan to
install a brushless motor, skip this section as it only contains
information relevant to installing a glow engine.
6. As you did with the ailerons, cut three arms from the
o
elevator and rudder servo arms. Enlarge the outer hole of
each servo arm with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Install a screwlock pushrod connector into the outer hole of each servo
arm. Tighten them to the servo arms with a 2mm flat washer,
knurled nut, and thread locking compound. The nut should
be snug against the washer but still allow the pushrod
connector to rotate freely in the servo arm hole. Slide the
pushrod wires through the screw-lock pushrod connectors
1. Seal the cooling air cutouts using some medium CA.
o
Using thick CA or 6 minute epoxy, mount the 3/8"x 3/8"x
9/16" [9.5x9.5x14.3mm] cowl mounting blocks to the firewall,
in the location shown.
2. Remove the stopper from the fuel tank and remove
o
the contents.
3. The fuel tank can be assembled as a two line system
o
consisting of a vent (pressure) line to the muffler and a
carb line. Filling and emptying of the tank would need to be
done through the carb line, or an optional fuel fill valve (not
included). The tank can also be assembled as a three line
system having a vent line, carb line, and fill line. If installing a
fill line, clear the plugged opening in the fuel tank stopper.
12
4. Fit the stopper assembly into the tank with the vent line
o
pointing toward the top of the tank, but not touching. The fuel
tubing and clunk (fuel pickup) on the carb line should almost
reach the back of the tank but not touch. The clunk must be
able to move freely inside the tank when assembled. Adjust
the length of the fuel tubing accordingly. If you wish to use
the fill line to drain the tank, bend the metal tube toward the
bottom of the tank and attach a length of fuel tubing to it, as
shown. When satisfied, tighten the 3x25mm [1"] screw in the
stopper to secure it in place (do not over-tighten).
6. Using four 3 x 22mm [7/8"] SHCS, four 3mm flat
o
washers, and four 3mm lock washers, attach the engine
mount inverted to the firewall. Be sure to use some thread
locker on the SHCS threads.
5. Insert the tank into the fuselage with the correct side
o
facing up. The neck of the tank should pass through the hole in
the firewall. Attach a 6" [152mm] piece of fuel line to the metal
tubes. It is a good idea to mark each of the lines using some
tape and a marker. Finish the tank installation by securing the
tank to the firewall using a rubber band as shown.
7. Position the front of the engine drive washer 3-1/4"
o
[83mm] from the firewall. Mark the location of the engine
mount holes onto the mount rails using a Dead Center Hole
Locator. Remove the engine from the mount and use a 3mm
tap and drill set to create threads in the four mounting holes.
Attach the engine to the mount using four 3x20mm [13/16"]
SHCS, four 3mm flat washers, and four 3mm lock washers.
13
8. Install the throttle servo into the servo bay, using the
o
same method used for the rudder and elevator servos.
10. Install the .039" x 13-3/4" [1 x 350mm] throttle
o
pushrod with Z-bend into the outer pushrod and connect
the Z-bend to your engine throttle arm (you may need to
remove the arm from the carburetor to do this). Install a
screw-lock pushrod connector into the second from the
outer hole of the throttle servo arm, as was done for the
elevator and rudder servo. Test the servo arm onto the
servo. You may need to trim the end of the servo arm to
allow it to clear the side of the fuselage. Tighten the aft end
of the throttle pushrod in the screw-lock connector (do not
cut off the excess length of pushrod until you have used
your radio system to center the servo and have made your
adjustments to the pushrod length).
9. Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole through the firewall inline
o
with the throttle arm on the engine. Important! – Do not
drill into the fuel tank! If in doubt, remove the tank before
drilling your hole. Insert the 1/8" x 9-5/8" [3 x 245mm] outer
pushrod tube through the hole in the firewall. There is a
pushrod guide tube hole located just in front of the servo
tray. Run the pushrod guide tube through both holes and
glue the tube to the holes using CA glue. Be sure not to
get any CA glue on the inside of the tube. Trim the pushrod
guide tube so that it extends 1/2" [12.7mm] past the hole in
front of the servo tray, and is flush with the firewall.
11. Trim the fuel tubing to length and connect the vent line
o
to the muffler and the carb line to the fuel inlet on the needle
valve. A nylon plug has been provided for the fill line, if you
installed one.
Out-runner Motor and
Battery Installation
The Combat P-47 ARF is designed to be flown with a .25
glow engine or a brushless out-runner motor. If you have
installed a glow engine, skip this section as it only contains
information relevant to installing a brushless motor.
14
1. Cut the perforations along the cooling hole and remove
o
the cutout on the firewall and hatch.
3. Test fit the motor mount pieces together. Be certain
o
that the arrow on the firewall and motor mounting plate piece
appears in the lower right corner when viewed from the front.
When the motor mount is assembled correctly and placed
flat it should lean slightly toward the bottom piece. Epoxy
the pieces together, being very careful to align the edges
flush with each other. Excess epoxy can be wiped up with
denatured alcohol.
2. Locate the three brushless motor mount adapter
o
pieces. Install the 3mm blind nuts onto the back side of the
motor mount. Use a 3 x 10mm [3/8"] screw and a 3mm flat
washer to draw them tight into the holes.
4. This mount has been designed so that it is removable.
o
Attach the motor mount adapter to the firewall using four 3
x 22mm [7/8"] SHCS, four 3mm flat washers, and four 3mm
lock washers. You may access the SHCS from the elongated
holes in the motor mount located on the side. Be certain that
the arrow on the pieces appears in the lower right corner,
when looking at the front of the model.
15
5. Mount the motor to the motor mount using four 3 x 15
o
mm [5/8"] machine screws, 3mm flat washers, and four 3mm
lock washers. Be sure to use thread locker on the machine
screw threads.
MAKE BATTERY CONNECTOR ADAPTERS
If the Great Planes 4mm male to 3.5mm female bullet
connector adapters are not available, or you would like
to make your own, the assembly procedure and order
numbers for the individual parts are provided below.
A. In order to make three adapters for one
o
complete brushless motor system, you will need
Great Planes Gold Plated Bullet Connectors Female
3.5mm (GPMM3113), Great Planes Gold Plated Bullet
Connectors Male 4mm (GPMM3114), electrical solder
with flux, and a soldering iron.
6. Connect the motor to the ESC using 4mm Male to
o
3.5mm Female Bullet Connector Adapters (GPMM3123).
Using some double sided foam tape, mount the ESC to the
side of the motor mount, as shown. Attach a 6" [152mm]
long servo extension to the ESC, and secure it using some
3/8" [9.5mm] heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.
B. Insert the 3.5mm female bullet connector (the end
o
with the cutout on the side) into the open end of the 4mm
male bullet connector. Shown in the photo above is the
X-Acto® Extra Hands Double Clip (XACR4214). This tool
is extremely useful for small soldering tasks.
C. With the female bullet in the open end of the male
o
bullet and the cutouts in both connectors lined up, apply
solder with flux into the cutouts. When applying the solder,
it should appear to flow into the joint and around the ends
of the connectors until the joint is coated. Excess solder
is not necessary as it will simply gather at the bottom of
the joint. Use alcohol to wipe the joint clean.
16
D. When satisfied, slide a piece of heat-shrink
o
tubing over the adapter up to the base of the male
bullet connector. Use a heat gun or micro torch to
shrink the tubing onto the adapter. If necessary, trim
the excess heat-shrink tubing from the end of the
female bullet connector.
7. Cut the provided hook and loop material in half.
o
Make two hook and loop straps 7-1/2" [190mm] long by
overlapping the ends approximately 1" [25.4mm]. Place the
straps through the battery tray in the location shown. Glue
the strap to the underside of the battery tray with medium
or thick CA. These straps will be used to secure the battery
during flight.
8. Remove the covering from the cooling air exit hole
o
located on the underside of the fuselage, approximately half
way between the wing and tail. Roughen the underside of
the rear scoop. Install the rear scoop over the cooling air exit
using thick CA glue so that the scoop opens toward the tail.
9. Locate the four 3/8"x3/8"x9/16" [9.5x9.5x14.3mm] cowl
o
mounting blocks. Using thick CA glue or 6-minute epoxy,
mount the blocks to the firewall in the locations shown.
17
FINISH THE MODEL
Install the Cowl
The cowl installation is shown on the brushless motor
power system. Installing the cowl over a glow engine is the
same. However, you will need to make a hole for glow plug
access, a hole to access the needle valve, and a cutout for
the muffler.
Install the Radio Gear
1. Cut a piece of 1/4" [6.4mm] or 1/2" [12.7mm] thick
o
foam rubber (not included) to fit your receiver. Attach the
receiver to the underside of the battery tray using a rubber
band (not included) and connect the servos to the receiver,
as shown.
1. Tape some pieces of cardboard to the fuselage to mark
o
the location of the cowl mounting blocks. Place the cowl over
the fuselage and center it. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot hole
through the cowl and into each of the blocks. Attach the cowl
to the fuselage using the 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping wood
screws. Remove the cowl and harden the cowl mounting
holes you have just tapped with some thin CA.
2. If using a glow engine, create a hook and loop strap
o
by cutting the provided hook and loop material in half,
overlapping the hook and loop material 1" [25.4mm] and
threading it through the openings in the battery tray. Place a
piece of foam rubber under the battery and strap the battery
to the top of the battery tray, as shown.
3. Route the receiver antenna down the outside of the
o
fuselage or, if using a 2.4GHz receiver, simply tape it to the
fuselage and the battery tray
4. If you have not done so already, connect the elevator and
o
rudder servos to the receiver. If you are using a transmitter
that does not support mixing, you will also need a dual servo
extension or Y-harness to join the aileron servos together.
If you have installed a glow engine, an optional switch can
be installed onto the side of the fuselage wherever there is
free space. Be sure that it does not interfere with any of the
pushrods. There is no need to use a charge jack with this
model, because of the easily removed hatch.
18
5. If you have installed a brushless motor, apply the hook
o
side of the included self-adhesive hook and loop material to
the battery tray (cut to length as needed).
Optional Landing Gear
The P-47 includes optional landing gear for those
modelers who choose to sport fly the model and would
benefit from using landing gear. The included landing gear
is recommended for paved runways only. If you plan to fly
the P-47 in combat competition, we suggest omitting the
gear for reduced weight and increased maneuverability.
6. Install the loop side of the included self-adhesive hook
o
and loop material onto the battery pack. Some packs may be
able to be moved forward or aft to minimize additional weight
added to the plane for balancing purposes. The P-47 has
been designed so that the battery pack may slide through
the firewall and onto the motor box for proper balancing.
1. Trim the covering from the landing gear slots on the
o
underside of the wing.
7. Attach the canopy to the fuselage with canopy glue.
o
Use masking tape to hold the canopy in place while the
glue dries.
8. Install your propeller to the motor shaft. Prepare the
o
model for balancing by installing the wing using two 3mm
flat washers and two 3 x 25 mm [1"] machine screws.
2. Using four 3mm wheel collars and four 3mm set
o
screws, temporarily install the wheels onto the landing
gear centering them on the axles. Tighten the set screws
against the axles. Remove the wheels and wheel collars
and grind flat spots on the axles where set screws made
marks from being tightened. A rotary tool such as a Dremel
with a cutoff wheel or a metal file can be used to make the
flat spots.
19
3. Reinstall the wheels onto the axles using the wheel
o
collars, set screws, and thread locking compound. Be sure
that the wheels rotate freely. Oil the wheels at the axles if
necessary. Fit the gear into the slots in the wing. Position
four landing gear straps over the wire as shown. Mark
the locations for the strap holes onto the wing and drill
5/64" [2mm] holes at the marks (DO NOT drill completely
through the wing!). Thread a 2.5 x 10mm self-tapping
screw into each hole and remove it. Apply a couple drops
of thin CA glue to each hole to harden the wood. Install
the straps over the landing gear using eight 2.5 x 10mm
self-tapping screws.
4. Trim the covering from the long edge of the tail skid.
o
Use a hobby knife to make a slit in the tail skid and glue a
washer into the slot. Trim the covering from the slot in the
fuselage where the tail skid will be glued.
Installing the Belly Pan
and the Machine Guns
1. Locate the two belly pan support pieces and glue them
o
together. Then glue the pieces to the belly pan as shown.
20
2. Glue the belly pan to the wing using some thick CA
o
glue, in the location shown.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Check the Control Directions
1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
o
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check
o
all the control surfaces to see if they are centered. If
necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center
the control surfaces.
3. Locate the gun mounting holes in the leading edge of
o
each side of the wing. Install the guns using some CA glue,
as shown. Note: The longest gun goes in the inboard hole.
The shortest gun goes in the outboard hole.
Apply the decals
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and
water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the
decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer
type, submersing them in soap & water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
3. Position the decal on the model where desired. Holding
the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the
water away.
3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
o
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram.
If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use
the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
21
Set the Control Throws
MEASURE AILERON
THROW AT THIS POINT
These are the recommended control surface throws:
ELEVATOR
HIGH RATE LOW RATE
3/8”
[9.5mm]
10deg
Up
3/8”
[9.5mm]
10deg
Down
15/64”
[6mm]
7deg
Up
15/64”
[6mm]
7deg
Down
RUDDER
1”
[25.4mm]
28deg
Right
1”
[25.4mm]
28deg
Left
11/16”
[17.5mm]
17deg
Right
11/16”
[17.5mm]
17deg
Left
AILERONS
13/64”
[5.2mm]
9deg
Up
13/64”
[5.2mm]
9deg
Down
1/8”
[3.2mm]
5deg
Up
1/8”
[3.2mm]
5deg
Down
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface
as indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not
have dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the
low rate setting.
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators and rudders. Aileron throws are to be measured
from the inboard portion of the aileron.
IMPORTANT: The Combat P-47 ARF has been
extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws at
which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will
provide you with the greatest chance for successful first
flights. If, after you have become accustomed to the way
the P-47 flies, you would like to change the throws to suit
your taste, that is fine. However, too much control throw
could make the model difficult to control, so remember,
“more is not always better.”
Balance the Model (c.g.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be successful.
If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many flights,
DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE.
A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and
possibly unflyable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine or
brushless motor, landing gear, and the radio system (and
battery pack if applicable).
1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately
o
mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage. The recommended C.G. is located 2-1/4" [57mm]
back from the leading edge of the wing.
This is where your model should balance for the first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 3/16" [5.2mm] forward or 1/2" [12.7mm] back to
change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward
may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model
may then require more speed for takeoff and make it more
difficult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G. aft makes
the model more maneuverable, but could also cause it
to become too difficult to control. In any case, start at
the recommended balance point and do not at any time
balance the model outside the specified range.
22
2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
o
model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, place
the model upside-down on a Great Planes CG Machine, or
lift it upside-down at the balance point you marked.
3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
o
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must
be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the
model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver
must be shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to
balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver
to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast required. If
additional weight is required, nose weight may be easily
added by using a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1
oz. [28g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g] weight).
If spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add
stick-on nose weight is to the firewall (don’t attach weight
to the cowl—it is not intended to support weight). Begin by
placing incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the
bottom of the fuse over the firewall until the model balances.
Once you have determined the amount of weight required,
it can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight may
be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuse and gluing
it permanently inside.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone
or epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that
has been laterally balanced will track better in loops
and other maneuvers.
PREFLIGHT
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
identification tag on page 27 (or on the decal sheet) and
place it on or inside your model.
Charge the Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the
night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended
by the radio manufacturer.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio
system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the next
charge may be done using the fast-charger of your choice.
If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries
may not reach their full capacity and you may be flying
with batteries that are only partially charged.
Balance Propellers
4. IMPORTANT: If you found it ne cessary to add
o
any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has
been installed.
Balance the Model Laterally
1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
o
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fin. Do this several times.
2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model,
o
it means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers
before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single
most significant cause of vibration that can damage your
model. Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts
loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may
also damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can
also cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run hot or quit.
23
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
Ground Check
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in,
confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly
and rapidly to full power and maintains full power—
indefinitely. After you run the engine on the model, inspect
the model closely to make sure all screws remained tight,
the hinges are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods
and connectors are secure.
Range Check
Ground check the operational range of your radio before the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces
are doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at
various speeds with an assistant holding the model, using
hand signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections
or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,
poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or
a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.
Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain the
glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off
or otherwise get into the running propeller.
Mak e a ll e ngin e adj u stme nts from behi n d t he
rotating propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.
To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline
powered engine an on/off switch should be connected to
the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a
running engine.
LITHIUM BATTERY
HANDLING & USAGE
WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included with
your battery. Failure to follow all instructions could cause
permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings, and
cause bodily harm!
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.
• ONLYuseaLiPoapprovedcharger.NEVERusea
NiCd/NiMH peak charger!
• NEVERchargeinexcessof4.20Vpercell.
• ONLYchargethroughthe“charge”lead.NEVERcharge
through the “discharge” lead.
• NEVERchargeatcurrentsgreaterthan1C.
• ALWAYSsetcharger’soutputvoltstomatchbattery
volts.
• ALWAYSchargeinafireprooflocation.
• NEVERtricklecharge.
• NEVERallowthebatterytemperaturetoexceed
150° F (65° C).
• NEVERdisassembleormodifypackwiringinanyway
or puncture cells.
• NEVERdischargebelow2.5Vpercell.
• NEVERplaceoncombustiblematerialsorleave
unattended during charge or discharge.
• ALWAYSKEEPOUTOFREACHOFCHILDREN.
24
AMA SAFETY CODE (e x c e r p t s )
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has
been proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in
the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an
observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with flying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing flying site except in accordance
with the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the
complete AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
CHECK LIST
During the last few moments of preparation your mind
may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first
flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook
certain checks and procedures that should be performed
before the model is flown. To help avoid this, a check list
is provided to make sure these important areas are not
overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual,
so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete
instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are
completed (that’s why it’s called a check list!).
1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
o
provided in the manual.
2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
o
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place with
foam rubber is not sufficient.
3. Extend your receiver antenna.
o
4. Balance your model laterally as expl ain ed in
o
the instructions.
5. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical
o
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel
axles to the struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm (if
applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
6. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
o
turn freely.
7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
o
8. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
o
appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl mounting
screws, etc.).
9. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction
o
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
10. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
o
clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the servos
with the screws included with your radio.
11. Secure connections between servo wires and
o
Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable for
that purpose.
12. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
o
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
13. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler
o
with high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound
or J.B. Weld.
25
14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
o
not kinked.
15. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
o
16. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
o
17. Place your name, address, AMA number and
o
telephone number on or inside your model.
18. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
o
make sure it is fully charged.
19. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
o
your first flight.
20. Range check your radio when you get to the
o
flying field.
F LYI N G
The Combat P-47 ARF is a great-flying model that flies
smoothly and predictably. The P-47 does not, however,
possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C
trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.
Takeoff
Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail skid on the
ground. If you need to calm your nerves before the maiden
flight, shut the engine down and bring the model back into
the pits. Top off the fuel, then check all fasteners and control
linkages for peace of mind.
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re ready, point
the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up elevator
to keep the tail on the ground, then gradually advance the
throttle. As the model gains speed decrease up elevator
allowing the tail to come off the ground. One of the most
important things to remember with a tail dragger is to always
be ready to apply right rudder to counteract engine torque.
Gain as much speed as your runway and flying site will
practically allow before gently applying up elevator, lifting
the model into the air. At this moment it is likely that you
will need to apply more right rudder to counteract engine
torque. Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing the model
to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning
into the traffic pattern.
Fuel Mixture Adjustments
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture should
be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm below
peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you will help
prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such
as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface
flutter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an
aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such as a wing or
stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise).
In extreme cases, if not detected immediately, flutter can
actually cause the control surface to detach or the flying
surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by
an impending crash. The best thing to do when flutter is
detected is to slow the model immediately by reducing
power, then land as soon as safely possible. Identify
which surface fluttered (so the problem may be resolved)
by checking all the servo grommets for deterioration or
signs of vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are
secure and free of play. If it fluttered once, under similar
circumstances it will probably flutter again unless the
problem is fixed. Some things which can cause flutter are;
Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly;
Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods
caused by large bends; Excessive free play in servo
gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of the most
prevalent causes of flutter; Flying an over-powered model
at excessive speeds.
Flight
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you. Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.
Take it easy with the Combat P-47 ARF for the first few
flights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain
confidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level
flight. After flying around for a while, and while still at a safe
altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and execute
practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see
how the model handles at slower speeds. Add power to see
how she climbs as well. Continue to fly around, executing
various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your
assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes
may be required to fine tune the model so it flies the way you
like. Mind your flight time, but use this first flight to become
familiar with your model before landing.
Landing
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on
the downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch
downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose
altitude, but maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down
as you turn onto the crosswind leg. Make your final turn
toward the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to
maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the
26
model reaches the runway threshold, modulating the throttle
as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If
you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle
(always ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and
climb out to make another attempt. When you’re ready to
make your landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the
deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches
down. Once the model is on the runway and has lost flying
speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the ground.
One final note about flying your model. Have a goal or flight
plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you
are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A flight plan greatly
reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of
poor planning and impulsive moves.
Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control
and fly in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
27
Loading...