Wingspan: 78 in [1980mm]
Wing Area: 1088 sq in [70.2 dm2]
Weight: 13-15 lb [5900-6800g]
Wing Loading: 28-32 oz/sq ft [84-97 g/dm2]
Length: 74.5 in [1890mm]
Radio: 4-Channel Minimum, 6-7 Servos
Engine: 1.6-1.8 cu. in. [26-30 cc] two-stroke, 1.8-2.1 cu. in. [30-34 cc] four-stroke,
1.9-2.6 cu. in. [32-43 cc] gas, 63-62-250 RimFire out-runner motor
WARRANTY
Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date
of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or
material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the userassembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place
of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby
Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number,
fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem
and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the
package, the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
3D FLYING ......................................................................51
ENGINE/MOTOR MOUNT TEMPLATES ........................53
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on your purchase of the Edge 540 1.60 ARF
3D, the next in the Great Planes Performance Series line of
3D aerobatic airplanes! The Edge 540 is one of the most
capable aerobatic planes in the world and has delivered
multiple championships in competition. Its proven design will
also deliver the 3D performance that pilots have come to
expect from the Great Planes Performance Series.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Edge 540 1.60 ARF visit the Great Planes web site at www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then select the
Edge 540 1.60 ARF. If there is new technical information or
changes to this model a “tech notice” box will appear in the
upper left corner of the page.
AMA
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics)
and a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model
aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not
limited to flying at contests or on the club field. It even applies
to flying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to
comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of
the manual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club
sites to help you get started the right way. There are over
2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over
groups of people.
2
www.modelaircraft.org
IMAA
The Great Planes Edge 540 1.60 ARF is an excellent
sport-scale model and is eligible to fly in IMAA events. The
IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association) is an
organization that promotes non-competitive flying of giantscale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA event, obtain
a copy of the IMAA Safety Code by contacting the IMAA at
the address or telephone number below, or by logging on to
their web site at:
IMAA
205 S. Hilldale Road
Salina, KS 67401
(913) 823-5569
www.fly-imaa.org
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
9. WARNING: The cowl and wheel pants included in this kit
are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye,
skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part
(wheel pant, cowl) to remove fiberglass dust, as the dust
will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a
particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and
sanding fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work
area thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.
1. Your Edge 540 1.60 ARF should not be considered a toy,
but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Edge, if not assembled and operated
correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators
and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to finish the Edge 540
1.60 ARF that may require planning or decision making before
starting to build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
Building Stand
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
A building stand or cradle comes in very handy during the
build. We use the Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) for
most of our projects in R&D, and it can be seen in pictures
throughout this manual.
3
Radio Equipment
Since the Edge 540 1.60 ARF is a large model capable of
extreme aerobatics, standard servos should not be used to
operate the control surfaces. Servos with a minimum torque
rating of 98 oz-in [7.1kg-cm] are required except for the
throttle servo which may be operated by a standard servo.
The servos shown in this manual that are used for all of the
control surfaces are Futaba® S3305 servos. A minimum of
six high torque servos and one standard servo (used for
throttle when installing a glow or gas engine) are needed to
complete the Edge:
A battery pack with a minimum of 1500mAh capacity should
also be used. When flying large models such as the Edge 540
1.60 ARF, ALWAYS check the battery condition before each
flight. If you are installing a gas engine with an electronic
ignition module, a separate battery pack (the EI pack does
not need to be high capacity) will also be required in addition
to the battery pack used to power the receiver and servos.
o Hobbico HydriMax
(HCAM6321)
A heavy-duty receiver switch and charge jack will also
be needed:
™
4.8V 2000mAh NiMH Flat AA Rx U
o Futaba S3305 Servo High-Torque Standard w/Metal
Gears (FUMT0045)
o Futaba S9001 Servo Aircraft Coreless BB (FUTM0075)
Because of heavy loads on the control surfaces, heavyduty servo arms should be used on all of the control surface
servos. The throttle servo can use the servo arm supplied
with the servo. This manual shows the installation of Great
Planes 1.5” [38mm] aluminum single-sided servo arms. If the
rudder servos will be installed in the aft location, six arms will
be needed. If the rudder servos are installed in the forward
position, only four arms will be needed. See the building
instructions for details on the rudder servo positions.
o Great Planes Large Scale 1.5" Single Side Servo Arm
(GPMM1105)
The following servo extensions and Y-harnesses were
also used to build the Edge 540 1.60 ARF as shown in
the manual:
o Two 36” [914mm] servo extensions for elevator servos
(HCAM2726 for Futaba J-connector)
o Two 36” [914mm] servo extensions for rudder servos
when installed in the optional aft location (HCAM2726 for
Futaba J-connector)
o Two 24” [610mm] servo extensions for aileron servos
(HCAM2721 for Futaba J-connector)
o One 6” [152mm] servo extension for receiver battery pack
(HCAM2701 for Futaba J-connector)
o One 12” [305mm] servo extension for brushless ESC if
applicable (HCAM2711 for Futaba J-connector)
o Futaba Heavy-duty Switch Harness w/Charge Cord
(FUTM4385)
o Ernst Charge Receptacle Futaba J FM (ERNM3001)
If installing a gas engine, an additional switch (standard
size) and charge jack will also be needed:
o Futaba SWH13 Switch Harness & Charge Cord Mini J
(FUTM4370)
If using a radio system that does not support mixing of
the elevator, rudder, and aileron servos, Y-harnesses will
be required:
o Two Hobbico
servos (HCAM2751 for Futaba J-connector)
®
Pro HD Y-Harnesses for rudder and aileron
o One Reversing Y-Harness for elevator servos (EMOM0027
for Futaba J-connector)
Note: The list of servo extensions and Y-harnesses is based
on the equipment we used to set up the Edge as detailed in
the manual. The length or quantity may vary depending on
the actual equipment being used, radio locations, etc.
4
Engine Recommendations
The recommended engine size range for the Edge 540 1.60
ARF is 1.6 to 1.8 cu in [26–30cc] two-stroke glow engine, 1.8
to 2.1 cu in [30–34cc] four-stroke glow engine, or 1.9 to 2.6
cu in [32–43cc] gasoline engine. We recommend either the
O.S.® 1.60 FX glow engine (OSMG0661) or the Fuji-Imvac™
BT-43 EI-2 gasoline engine (FJIG0144). The Edge is also
designed to accept a Great Planes 63-62-250kV RimFire™
brushless out-runner motor. All of these power systems will
allow the Edge to perform the 3D maneuvers it was designed
for and installations are covered in this manual.
GLOW ENGINE REQUIREMENTS
Note: The total recommended voltage for the LiPo battery
pack configuration is 33.3V to 44.4V. This can be done in
combinations of battery packs ranging in voltage. Be sure
that the capacity (mAh) of all packs used are the same value
(example: do not mix 3200mAh packs with 5000mAh packs).
The battery pack combination should be connected together
using the recommended series adapter. The actual quantity
of adapters needed depends on the number of packs being
used. Each adapter will connect two packs together in series.
If three 11.1V packs are joined to make 33.3V, two series
adapters will be needed (one series adapter will join two
11.1V packs together to make 22.2V, the second adapter
will combine that 22.2V with the remaining 11.1V pack for a
total of 33.3V). If four 11.1V packs are combined for a total
of 44.4V, then three series adapters will be needed. Other
voltage combinations may require more or less adapters.
The only required accessory needed to install a glow engine
is a Pitts style muffler. If using the O.S. 1.60 FX glow engine,
the order number for a Pitts style muffler is Bisson O.S. 1.60
FX Pitts Muffler (BISG4116).
BRUSHLESS MOTOR REQUIREMENTS
If installing the Great Planes 63-62-250kV RimFire out-runner
brushless motor (GPMG4795), you will also need to purchase:
o Great Planes Brushless Motor Mount Extra Large
(GPMG1265)
o Great Planes SS100 100A Brushless ESC (GPMM1870)
o 9-12 cells (3 or 4 11.1V packs) 3200mAh LiPo Batteries:
Great Planes LiPo 11.1V 3200mAh 20C Discharge w/
Balance (GPMP0623)
o Great Planes Series Deans
(GPMM3143)
®
Ultra Plug® 2 to 1 Adapter
o Great Planes Velcro Hook & Loop 1x6" (2) (GPMQ4480)
o LiPo compatible battery charger such as the Great
Planes PolyCharge4™ DC Only 4 Output LiPo Charger
(GPMM3015)
o Great Planes ElectriFly
(GPMM3160)
The included spinner adapter nut is designed specifically to
fit into the tapered jam nut used on the O.S. 1.60 FX glow
engine. Because of this, an adapter nut must be purchased
to work with the RimFire prop adapter. You can use Tru Turn
Adapter Kit O.S. 1.08 (TRUQ3065) or Dave Brown X-Long
Adapter Nut 3/8-24 (DAVQ6324). Both of these adapter nuts
require a 10-32 spinner bolt that will need to be purchased
separately. The length of the bolt will depend on the adapter
nut being used. We suggest purchasing a 10-32 x 2-3/4”
[70mm] spinner bolt and cutting it to the necessary length.
Another option is to purchase the nut and prop washer
set for the O.S. 1.60 FX engine, O.S. Locknut Set 1.60 FX
(OSMG6688). Using the O.S. prop nut will allow you to
also use the adapter nut included with the kit as well as the
included 5mm prop bolt.
™
Equinox™ LiPo Cell Balancer
The recommended hook and loop material is used to join
the individual battery packs together, securing them onto
the battery tray, and securing the ESC to the ESC tray. One
package of Great Planes hook and loop contains 12” [305mm]
of material. We suggest purchasing at least two packages.
The recommended PolyCharge4 will charge up to four LiPo
packs simultaneously. To do so, an Equinox Cell Balancer is
required for each individual LiPo pack. The PolyCharge4 is
a DC only charger, so a suitable DC power source will also
be required.
GAS ENGINE REQUIREMENTS
The fuel tank included with this kit is suitable for use with
glow fuel. However, if using a gas engine, the fuel tank
must be converted to work with gasoline. This can be
done by purchasing a Sullivan #484 Gasoline/Diesel fuel
tank conversion kit (SULQ2684), two packages of Du-Bro
#813 1/8” [3.2mm] I.D. fuel line barbs (DUBQ0670) and at
least 3’ [914mm] of gasoline compatible fuel tubing (such
as Tygon). Without the fuel line barbs, some types of gascompatible fuel line may slip off the metal fuel tubes. If the
Sullivan conversion kit is not available, the Du-Bro #400 gas
conversion stopper (DUBQ0675) and one package of K&S
1/8” [3.2mm] soft brass tubing (K+SR5127) could also be
used to make the conversion.
Also, the hardware needed to mount a gas engine to the
firewall is not included with the kit. The hardware that is
detailed in the building instructions of this manual for mounting
the Fuji-Imvac BT-43 EI-2 engine includes four 10-32 x 1-1/4”
[32mm] socket head cap screws, four #10 flat washers, four
#10 lock washers (split washers), and four 10-32 blind nuts.
This hardware can be purchased at a hardware store, home
center, or your hobby supplier.
5
Propeller
Optional Supplies and Tools
Choose the propeller that is appropriate for the power system
you are using. If installing the Great Planes 63-62-250kV
RimFire out-runner motor, the propeller choice will depend
on the battery voltage being used. A 9-cell (33.3V) pack will
require a 20 x 10 prop (APCQ2200). A 12-cell (44.4V) pack
will require an 18 x 8 prop (APCQ3010). If installing an O.S.
1.60 FX glow engine, we recommend using a 18 x 6W prop
(APCQ1806). If installing the Fuji-Imvac BT-43 EI-2 engine,
we recommend using a 20 x 8 prop (APCQ2080).
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Adhesives and Building Supplies
Here is a list of optional supplies and tools that will help you
build the Edge 540 1.60 ARF.
o Great Planes 1/4 Sport Pilot Yellow (GPMQ9012)
o Fuel filler valve for glow fuel (GPMQ4160)
o Fuel filler valve for gasoline (GPMQ4161)
o 1/2 oz. [15g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013)
o Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)
o Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
o Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
o Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
o Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
o 36" metal ruler (HCAR0475)
o Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
o T.A. Emerald Performance Duster can of compressed air
(TAEC1060)
o Rotary tool such as Dremel
o Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)
o Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)
o CG Machine
™
(GPMR2400)
o #64 Rubber bands (1/4 lb [113g] box, HCAQ2020)
This is the list of Adhesives and Building Supplies that are
required to finish the Edge 540 1.60 ARF.
o Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
o 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro
™
CA (GPMR6001)
o 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
o Hobbico 60 watt soldering iron (HCAR0776) or Hobby
Heat™ Micro Torch II (HCAR0755)
o Silver solder w/flux (STAR2000)
o Petroleum jelly (Vaseline)
o 3' [900mm] standard silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
(glow engine only)
o R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] - HCAQ1000)
o Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 7/64" [2.8mm],
o Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
o 8-32 tap and drill set (GPMR8103), glow engine only
o Tap handle (GPMR8120), glow engine only
o #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
o #11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
o Masking tape (TOPR8018)
o T-pins (HCAR5150)
o Great Planes Pro Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
o Dead Center
glow engine only
™
Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130),
o Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
o 1" [25mm] double-sided foam tape (GPMQ4442)
o 220-grit Sandpaper (GPMR6185)
o 21st Century
®
sealing iron (COVR2700)
o 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
o 21st Century trim seal iron (COVR2750)
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
• There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Self-tapping screws are designated
by a number and a length. For example,
#6 x 3/4" [19mm].
Machine screws are designated by a
number, threads per inch, and a length.
For example, 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].
Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS) are
designated by a number, threads per
inch, and a length. For example, 4-40 x
3/4" [19mm]
• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it means
that you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom fit
the part as necessary for the best fit.
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
6
• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.
• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check
these measurements anyway. To view this information visit
the web site at www.greatplanes.com and click on
“Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing tolerances which
will have little or no effect on the way your model will fly,
please expect slight deviations between your model and
the published values.
• The Edge 540 1.60 ARF is factory-covered with Top Flite
MonoKote® film. Should repairs ever be required, MonoKote
can be patched with additional MonoKote purchased
separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls, but
some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small
piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a
fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote is applied
with a model airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a
regular iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full
instructions for application. Following are the colors used
on this model and order numbers for six foot rolls.
Yellow (TOPQ0203)White (TOPQ0204)
Missile Red (TOPQ0201)
Metallic Blue (TOPQ0402)
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Edge 540 1.6 ARF are available
using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts List that
follows. The fastest, most economical service can be provided
by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site
at www.greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the
bottom of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.
®
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721,
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa® or MasterCard®
number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason, contact
Product Support by telephone at (217) 398-8970, or by
e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.com.
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
Order Number Description How to Purchase
Missing pieces ....Contact Product Support
Instruction manual Contact Product Support
Full-size plans ........................Not available
Contact your hobby supplier for the following parts:
GPMA3080 ...... Wing Set
GPMA3081 ...... Fuselage
GPMA3082 ...... Tail Set
GPMA3083 ...... Cowl
GPMA3084 ...... Canopy
GPMA3085 ...... Landing Gear
GPMA3086 ...... Wheel Pants
GPMA3087 ...... Decal
GPMA3088 ...... Canopy/Hatch
GPMA3089 ...... Spinner
7
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not
of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or
missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
KIT CONTENTS
1
4
1. Cowl
2. Canopy
3. Fuselage
4. Spinner
5. Landing Gear
6. Wheel Pants
7. Main Wheels
2
3
8
5
6
7
1213
10
9
11
8. Fuel Tank
9. Tailwheel Assembly
10. Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevators
11. Rudder
12. Left Wing w/Aileron
13. Right Wing w/Aileron
8
PREPARATIONS
o 1. If you have not done so already, remove the major parts
of the kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any parts
are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the
address or telephone number listed in the “Kit Inspection”
section on the prevous page.
o 2. Carefully remove the tape and separate all the
control surfaces. Use a covering iron with a covering sock
on medium/high heat to tighten the covering if necessary.
Apply pressure over sheeted areas to thoroughly bond the
covering to the wood.
to the wing. The hinge gap between the aileron and wing
should only be wide enough to allow a small line of light
through. Excessive gap will decrease the effectiveness of
the ailerons.
o o 2. Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly or something
similar to the center of each hinge to prevent epoxy from sticking
to the joints and not allowing the hinge to operate smoothly.
READ ALL OF STEP 3 BEFORE PROCEEDING.
ASSEMBLE THE WING
Install the Ailerons
Do the left wing first so your work matches the photos
the first time through. You can do one wing at a time, or
work on them together.
o o 1. Test fit the included hinge points into the pre-drilled
holes in the wing panel and aileron. The hinge points
should seat into the hinge holes all the way to the metal pin
in order to minimize the gap between the aileron and wing.
If necessary, use a hobby knife to enlarge the surface of the
hinge holes until the proper fit is achieved. Test fit the aileron
o o 3. Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy. Using a toothpick
or wood scrap, apply epoxy to the inside of each hinge point
hole. The holes are drilled through to the open cavity in the
wing and aileron, so be careful that you do not apply too
much to the walls of the holes as it will simply drip into the
wing. Apply a light coat of epoxy to one end of all the hinges
for one wing panel. Insert the hinge points into the holes in
the wing panel, wiping away excess epoxy with denatured
alcohol as necessary. Be sure the hinges are inserted in the
correct orientation so that the direction of the hinge pin is
inline with trailing edge of the wing. Apply epoxy to the other
ends of the hinges and slide the aileron into position over
the hinges. Use masking tape to hold the aileron in place
while the epoxy cures.
o 4. Repeat these steps for the right wing panel.
99
9
Install Aileron Servos and Pushrods
o o 1. Installing the servos in the wing will require the use
of one 24" [610mm] servo extension for each aileron servo.
One Y-harness connector is required and is used to allow the
aileron servos to plug into one slot in your receiver. You may
have a computer radio that allows you to plug the servos
into separate slots and then mix them together through the
radio transmitter. If you choose to mix them together with the
radio rather than a Y-harness, refer to the manual with your
particular model radio system.
o o 2. Attach the 24" [610mm] servo extension to the
aileron servo and secure it with a piece of the included large
heat shrink tubing. Only 1-1/2" [38mm] of heat shrink tubing
is required for each connector.
o o 5. Temporarily position the aileron servo into the servo
bay. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the four mounting
holes of the servo, drilling through the plywood mounting
plate in the wing. Install and remove a servo mounting screw
into each of the four holes. Apply a drop of thin CA into the
holes to harden the wood. After the glue has cured, install
the servo into the opening using the hardware that came
with your servo. Center the servo with your radio system and
install a servo arm as shown.
o o 3. Cut the covering 1/8" [3mm] inside the opening in the
underside of the wing for the aileron servo. Use a trim iron to
seal the covering to the inner edges of the opening.
The next three images are used for steps 6 and 7.
o o 4. Tie the string from inside the opening for the aileron
servo to the end of the servo extension. Remove the tape
holding the other end of the string to the wing root rib and
pull the servo wire and extension through the wing.
o o 6. The aileron has a plywood plate for mounting the control
horn. You can see the outline of it underneath the covering by
looking at the aileron at a shallow angle. If you cannot see
it, the plate is approximately 1-5/8" [41mm] wide and will be
10
inline with the servo arm. Use a T-pin to lightly puncture the
covering to be sure you are over the plywood plate.
oo 7. Place a heavy-duty nylon control horn on the
aileron, positioning it as shown in the sketch inline with the
second outer hole of the servo arm. Mark the location for the
screw holes. Drill through the marks you made with a 3/32"
[2.4mm] drill bit (Be sure you are drilling into the plywood plate
mounted in the bottom of the aileron. Drill through the plate
only. Do not drill all the way through the aileron!). Using
a #4 x 1/2" [13mm] sheet metal screw (there are different
length #4 sheet metal screws included with the model, so
be sure that you are using the correct length screw for this
step), install and then remove a screw into each of the holes.
Harden the holes with thin CA. Install the control horn with
four #4 x 1/2" [13mm] sheet metal screws.
o o 8. Locate a .095" x 6" [2.4mm x 152mm] pushrod wire
threaded on one end. Screw a 4-40 nut, a silicone clevis
retainer and a threaded metal clevis onto the threaded end of
the wire 20 turns. Tighten the nut against the clevis and then
install the clevis on the outer hole of the aileron control horn.
o o 9. Be sure the aileron servo is centered and the servo
arm is parallel to the hinge line. Install a metal solder clevis
onto the second outer hole in the servo arm. Center the
servo arm parallel with the aileron hinge line and center the
aileron. Using the solder clevis as a guide, mark where to cut
the pushrod wire. Remove the pushrod and clevis from the
control horn and the solder clevis from the servo arm. Install
another silicone clevis retainer onto the wire and solder the
clevis to the pushrod using the “Expert Tip” that follows.
o o 10. Install the pushrod and clevises to the second
outer hole in the servo arm and the outer hole in the control
horn. Adjust the linkage until the aileron and the servo arm
are both centered. Then tighten the nut against the clevis
with threadlocking compound. Slide the two silicone clevis
retainers to the end of each clevis.
o 11. Repeat these steps for the right wing panel.
Join the Wing Panels
HOW TO SOLDER THE CLEVIS TO THE PUSHROD
1. Where the pushrod will make contact with the solder
clevis, roughen the wire with 220-grit sandpaper.
2. Use denatured alcohol to remove any oil residue from
the pushrod wire. Note: Soldering should be done with
silver solder, not an electrical solder.
3. Apply a couple of drops of flux to the wire. Slide the solder
clevis onto the wire. Using a small torch or soldering iron
heat the wire, allowing the heated wire to heat the solder
clevis. Apply a small amount of solder to the joint. When
the wire and the clevis are hot enough the solder will flow
into the joint. Avoid using too much solder causing solder
to flow out of the joint and clump. Use just enough solder to
make a good joint. Allow the wire and clevis to cool.
4. Put a couple of drops of oil onto a rag and wipe the
joint. This will prevent rust from forming on the joint.
o 1. Trim the covering from the servo lead cutouts in the
bottom of the wing panels near the root ribs. Feed the aileron
servo leads through the cutouts. Taping the leads to the top
of the wing will keep them out of the way when joining the
wing panels.
o 2. Locate the two aluminum wing joiner pieces and the
wood wing joiner piece. Use 220 grit sandpaper to thoroughly
11
roughen both sides of each aluminum wing joiner piece and
remove the sanding dust from the pieces. Glue the three pieces
together using 30-minute epoxy with the two aluminum pieces
against the flat side of the wood piece. Note that the joiner
has a slight “V” shape that will give the wing a small amount
of dihedral when assembled. The point of the “V” shape is
the bottom of the joiner. Wipe away any excess epoxy with
a cloth dampened with denatured alcohol and use clamps to
hold the pieces together while the epoxy cures. Be sure that
the joiner pieces are glued so the edges are flush with each
other. Mark a centerline on the assembled wing joiner.
Read all of step 3 and dry fit the parts together to ensure
a proper fit before gluing. Sand the wing joiner or root
ribs if necessary to achieve the correct fit. The root ribs
should join together tightly with no gaps.
o 3. Use a mixing stick or something similar to coat the
inside of the wing joiner pockets of both wing panels with
30-minute epoxy. Thoroughly coat one half of the wing joiner
with 30-minute epoxy and insert it into the joiner pocket of
one wing panel with the bottom of the “V” shape pointing to
the underside of the wing and the aluminum pieces toward
the LE of the wing. Coat the root ribs of both wing panels and
the protruding end of the wing joiner with epoxy. Slide the
wing panels together and use tape to hold them tight while
the epoxy cures. A small clamp can be used to align the
trailing edge while the epoxy cures. Wipe away any excess
epoxy with denatured alcohol.
o 4. Bevel the ends of the 3/8" x 2" [10x51mm] wing dowels.
Use epoxy to glue the wing dowels in place. Position the dowels
so that 5/8" [16mm] protrudes beyond the front of wing.
o 5. Draw a center line onto the plywood wing bolt plate as
shown. Position the wing bolt plate over the wing bolt holes
on the underside of the wing and use a felt-tip pen to trace
around it.
12
ASSEMBLE THE TAIL SECTION
AND LANDING GEAR
Install Stabilizer, Elevators, and Rudder
o 1. Just as you did with the ailerons, prepare the hinge
point holes in the stabilizer and elevators by test fitting the
hinges and enlarging the holes as necessary. Do not glue
the hinges until instructed to do so.
o 6. Use a sharp #11 hobby knife or use the following Expert
Tip to cut the covering 1/16" [1.6mm] inside of the lines you
marked. Use care to cut only in the covering and not into
the wood. Use alcohol to wipe away the lines. Glue the wing
bolt plate in position. Continue the wing bolt holes through
the plate using a 1/4" [6mm] drill bit. Clamp a piece of scrap
wood against the wing bolt plate to reduce tear out when
drilling the holes.
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the area
beneath the wing bolt plate. The tip of the soldering iron
doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine tip does work best.
Allow the iron to heat fully.
o 2. Locate the stabilizer slots near the aft end of the
fuselage and trim away the covering.
Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate
that will just melt the covering and not burn into the wood.
The hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to
melt a fine cut. Peel off the covering.
o 3. Temporarily install the wing onto the fuselage using two
1/4-20 nylon wing bolts. The wing dowels will fit into receiving
holes in the former behind the leading edge of the wing.
13
o 4. Test fit the stabilizer in the fuselage. Center the stab left
AA
BB
A = A
B = B
and right in the fuselage. Stand back 15-20ft [5-6m] and check
to be sure the stab is parallel to the wing. If necessary, adjust
the stab saddle as needed until the stab and wing are parallel.
o 6. Use a felt tip marker to mark the outline of the fuselage
onto the top and bottom of the stab.
o 7. Remove the stab from the fuse and cut the covering just
inside the lines you drew. If using a hobby knife to remove
the covering, use care to cut only in the covering and not into the wood.
o 8. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the stab into the fuselage.
For the most strength, apply epoxy to both sides of the stab
and inside the fuse where the stab fits. Slide the stab into
position. Confirm that the stab is centered and parallel with
the wing as was done in steps 4 and 5. Wipe away any excess
epoxy with a paper towel and denatured alcohol. Do not
disturb the model until the epoxy has fully hardened. With the
stab secure, you can now remove the wing from the plane.
o 5. Measure the distance from the tip of each wing to the
tip of the stab. Adjust the stab until the distance from the tip
of the stab to the tip of the wing is equal on both sides.
o 9. As you did with the ailerons, use a toothpick or wood
scrap to apply 30-minute epoxy to the inside of each elevator
and stab hinge point hole. Apply a light coat of epoxy to one
14
end of all the hinges for the elevators along with a small
amount of petroleum jelly at the center of each hinge. Insert
the hinge points into the holes, wiping away excess epoxy
with denatured alcohol as necessary. Be sure the hinges
are inserted in the correct orientation. Apply epoxy to the
other ends of the hinges and slide the elevators into place.
Use masking tape to hold the elevators in position while the
epoxy cures.
o 10. Attach the rudder in the same manner.
o 3. Measure 1-1/2" [38mm] back from the LE bevel of the
rudder and make a mark on the underside center of the rudder.
Install the Tail Gear Assembly
o 1. Trim the covering from the fuselage for the tail
gear bushing.
o 4. Use a 5/32" [4mm] drill bit to make a 1/2" [13mm] deep
hole at the mark. To improve accuracy, drill a smaller pilot
hole at your mark first.
o 2. Apply CA or epoxy to the outside of the bushing and
insert the bushing into the hole by gently tapping it into place
until fully seated. Be sure not to get glue into the hole in
the bushing.
o 5. Slide the tail gear collar and nylon retainer onto the
tail gear assembly as shown. If necessary, use a 1/16"
[1.6mm] drill bit to enlarge the hole in the retainer for the tail
gear guide wire.
15
o 6. Temporarily insert the tail gear assembly into the tail gear
bushing and the nylon retainer into the hole you drilled in the
rudder. Center the tail gear bracket onto the fuselage over the
tail gear collar and mark the location of the mounting holes.
o 7. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes at the marks you made. Thread
a 2x8mm self-tapping screw into each hole and back it out.
Apply a couple drops of thin CA glue to each hole and allow
it to harden.
Assemble and Install the Main Gear
o 1. Use a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel or a hacksaw to cut
the two 3/16" x 2" [4.8mm x 51mm] bolt-on axles to 1-3/4"
[44mm] long.
o 8. Apply CA or epoxy to the nylon retainer and reinstall the
tail gear assembly into the bushing and rudder. Do not glue
the nylon retainer to the guide wire. The wire must slide freely
through the hole in the retainer. Gently tap the retainer in
place until approximately 3/16" [4.8mm] protrudes below the
bottom of the rudder. Attach the tail gear bracket using two 2
x 8mm self-tapping screws. Thread the 3mm set screw into
the tail gear collar with a drop of threadlocking compound.
Cut off the excess guide wire 1/2" [13mm] behind the nylon
retainer.
o 9. Confirm that the tail wheel rotates freely. Oil the axle and
adjust the position of the 3mm wheel collar if necessary.
o 2. Attach the axles to the main landing gear legs with two
5/16"-24 locknuts. Slide a 3/16" [4.8mm] wheel collar onto
each axle followed by a 3-1/2" [89mm] wheel and another
3/16" [4.8mm] wheel collar.
16
o 3. Temporarily install the wheel pants using four 4-40 x 1/2"
[13mm] machine screws and four #4 flat washers.
o 5. Attach the landing gear to the fuselage using six
6-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS, six #6 flat washers, six #6 lock
washers, and threadlocking compound.
Install Elevator Servos and Pushrods
o 1. Trim the covering from the elevator servo bays leaving
1/8" [3mm] around the opening. Use a trim iron to seal down
the covering around the edges of the servo bays.
o 4. Position the wheels in the center of the wheel pants,
slide the wheel collars against the wheel hubs, and mark the
location of the screw holes in the wheel collars onto the axles.
Remove the wheel pants from the gear and the wheels and
collars from the axles and grind flat spots at your marks on
the axles for the wheel collar screws using either a file or a
rotary tool. Reinstall the wheels and collars onto the axles and
secure the pants to the gear using four 4-40 x 1/2" [13mm]
machine screws, four #4 flat washers, four #4 lock washers,
and threadlocking compound. Use four 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm]
SHCS and threadlocking compound to secure the wheel
collars to the axles, being sure that you tighten the screws
against the flat spots on the axles. The wheels should rotate
freely between the wheel collars. Oil the axles if necessary.
o 2. Attach a 36" [914mm] servo extension to each elevator
servo. Secure the servo extensions with the included
heat-shrink tubing. Feed the servo extensions through the
fuselage and install the servos into the servo bays with the
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