WARRANTY
Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co.
guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This
warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of
the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any
damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all
resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately
in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail
address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as
quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING
CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE
ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
GPMZ0199 for GPMA1271 V1.0Entire Contents © Copyright 2005
Champaign, IL
(217) 398-8970, Ext. 5
airsupport@greatplanes.com
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Wingspan: 82 in [2085mm]
Wing Area: 1772 sq in [114.3 dm2]
Weight: 12.5 – 13.5 lb [5600 – 6070g]
Wing Loading: 16.1 – 17.4 oz/sq ft [49 – 53 g/dm2]
Length: 84 in [2135mm]
Engine: 1.20 – 1.60 cu in [19.5 – 26.0cc] glow,
2.0 – 2.5 cu in [32.5 – 41.0cc] gas
™
INTRODUCTION................................................................2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ..................................................2
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ........................................3
Radio Equipment .........................................................3
Engine Recommendations...........................................3
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED .....................................3
Hardware & Accessories .............................................3
Covering Tools .............................................................4
Adhesives & Building Supplies ....................................4
Optional Supplies & Tools............................................4
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES.......................................4
KIT INSPECTION...............................................................5
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS...............................6
METRIC CONVERSIONS ..................................................6
PREPARATIONS................................................................6
Assemble the Pushrods...............................................6
ASSEMBLE THE WING .....................................................7
Mount the Ailerons & Flaps .........................................7
Hook Up the Flaps & Ailerons .....................................9
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE.........................................10
Mount the Wing..........................................................10
Mount the Stab & Fin.................................................10
Mount the Landing Gear............................................11
Mount the Engine.......................................................13
Mount the Cowl..........................................................13
Install the Fuel Tank...................................................15
FINAL ASSEMBLY ..........................................................16
Mount the Tail Servos ................................................16
Install the Throttle Servo, Receiver & Battery............17
Mount the Canopy .....................................................18
Apply the Decals........................................................18
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY..................................19
Check the Control Directions.....................................19
Set the Control Throws..............................................19
Balance the Model (C.G.) ..........................................19
Balance the Model Laterally ......................................20
PREFLIGHT .....................................................................20
Identify Your Model.....................................................20
Charge the Batteries..................................................20
Balance the Propellers...............................................20
Ground Check............................................................21
Range Check .............................................................21
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .................................21
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts) ....................................21
CHECK LIST....................................................................22
FLYING.............................................................................22
Important Reminders .................................................22
Fuel Mixture Adjustments ..........................................22
Take Off......................................................................23
Flight ..........................................................................23
Landing ......................................................................23
Whether you’re just learning to do basic aerobatics or are
looking for a quick practice plane as a backup to your
$10,000 Unlimited aerobatic machine, the Giant U-CAN-DO
3D
™
ARF is just the bird you’re looking for.
Large control surfaces, light wing loading and an all around
performance design work together to put a fun-to-fly, do-it-all
3D aerobatic machine in your hands. On low rates, the Giant
U-CAN-DO 3D ARF is a perfect choice for learning to do basic
aerobatics or for great Sunday fun flying. With an O.S.
®
1.60
and high 3D rates, the Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF provides
exceptional slow speed and below-stall-speed (3D) aerobatic
ability with vertical performance that is exhilarating.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF, visit the web site listed below and
select the Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF. If there is new
technical information or changes to this model, a “tech
notice” box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html
1. Your Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF should not be considered
a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its
performance capabilities, the Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF, if
not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel
tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
INTRODUCTIONTABLE OF CONTENTS
2
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
should fly the model only with the help of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot.
8. WARNING: The cowl and wheel pants included in this kit
are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye,
skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part to
remove fiberglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your
eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and
rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fiberglass
parts. Vacuum the parts and work area thoroughly after
working with fiberglass parts.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
If you have not flown this type of model before, we
recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced
pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a
member of a club, your local hobby shop has information
about clubs in your area whose membership includes
experienced pilots.
In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend you
join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA
membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs. There
are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country.
Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its
members who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club
sites to help you get started the right way. Contact the AMA at
the address or toll-free phone number that follows.
This is a partial list of items required to finish the Giant
U-CAN-DO 3D ARF that may require planning or decisionmaking before starting to build. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses.
4+ channel radio with 8 standard-sized servos. Note that a
9+ channel, fully computerized radio system is highly
recommended for maximum flexibility and performance.
Ailerons:
❏ (2) 50+ oz/in Ball bearing servos Futaba
S9001 (FUTM0075)
❏ (2) 20" extensions (FUTM4147)
❏ (2) 8" extensions (FUTM4140)
Flaps:
❏ (2) 50+ oz/in oz ball bearing servos Futaba
S9001 (FUTM0075)
❏ (2) 8" extensions (FUTM4140)
Rudder:
❏ (1) 90+ oz/in High torque servos Futaba
S9206 (FUTM0115)
❏ (1) 40" servo extension (FUTM4148)
Elevator:
❏ (2) 90+ oz/in Ball bearing servos Futaba
S9206 (FUTM0115)
❏ If using a computerized radio, two 40" servo
extensions (FUTM4148)
❏ If not using a computerized radio with Ailevator
programming, then a servo reversing harness (FUTM4150)
and a 20" extension (FUTM4147) are required.
Throttle:
❏ (1) Standard servo: Futaba S3003 (FUTM0031)
❏ 1.20 to 1.60 cu in [19.5-26.0cc] glow, 2.0 to 2.5 cu in
[32.5-41cc] gas
❏ Appropriate props, fuel, glow plugs, etc. for your engine
Engine Notes: The Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF will hover on
all of the recommended engines. The engines on the lower
end of the range will hover nicely without over-speeding the
airframe in level flight.The engines on the higher end of the
range will hover and give the added power to recover from
unwanted attitudes, but throttle management needs to be
used to keep the speed down. Whatever engine you
choose, an 8 pitch prop or less is recommended.
In addition to the items listed in the
“Decisions You Must
Make”
section, following is the list of hardware and
Hardware & Accessories
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Engine Recommendations
Radio Equipment
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele: (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality
and flyability of your finished model depends on how you
build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
3
accessories required to finish the Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF.
Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
❏ Hook & Loop Velcro (GPMQ4480)
❏ 3' Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏ 1/2" R/C Foam (HCAQ1050)
❏ 21st Century
®
sealing iron (COVR2700)
❏ 21st Century trim seal iron (COVR2750)
❏ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
In addition to common household tools and hobby tools, this
is the “short list” of the most important items required to
build the Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF.
Great Planes Pro™CA
and Epoxy glue are recommended.
❏ 1/2 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
❏ 1/2 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❏ Electric drill
❏ Drill bit set including: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32"
[2.4mm], and 1/8" [3mm]
❏ Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers (HCAR1040)
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❏ Standard hex wrench set (HCAR0520)
❏ Threadlocker
™
(GPMR6060)
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel
®
❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you build the Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF.
❏ Great Planes CG Machine
™
(GPMR2400)
❏ Top Flite
®
Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™(TOPQ5700)
❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456)
❏ CA Applicator Tips (GPMR6033)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6034)
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Denatured Alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏ Hobby knife (HCAR0105), #11 blades (HCAR0211)
❏ Builders Triangle Set (HCAR0480) (for fin alignment)
❏ Felt-Tip marker (TOPQ2510)
❏ Small metal file
❏ Dead Center
™
Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)
❏ Great Planes AccuThrow
™
Deflection Gauge (for
measuring control throws, GPMR2405)
❏ Great Planes Aluminum Fuel Line Plug (GPMQ4166)
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a length.
For example, #6 x 3/4" [19mm].
This is a number six screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long.
Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
inch, and a length – for example, 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].
This is a number four screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long
with forty threads per inch.
When you see the term
test fit
in the instructions, it means
that you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or
custom fit
the part as necessary for the best fit.
Whenever the term
glue
is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When a
specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
Whenever just
epoxy
is specified you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy.
Photos
and
sketches
are placed before the step they refer
to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get
another view of the same parts.
The Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF is factory-covered with Top
Flite MonoKote®film. Should repairs ever be required,
MonoKote can be patched with additional MonoKote
purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls,
but some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small
piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a
fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote is applied with
a model airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a regular
iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full instructions
for application. Following are the colors used on this model
and order numbers for six foot rolls.
Jet White – TOPQ0204
Medium Purple – TOPQ0225
Sky Blue – TOPQ0206
Pink – TOPQ0215
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
Optional Supplies & Tools
Adhesives & Building Supplies
Covering Tools
4
5
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, use the Kit Contents list to take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete and inspect the parts
to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance
with assembly, contact Great Planes Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly
as they are written in the Kit Contents list on this page.
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail:
airsupport@greatplanes.com
Parts Layout
Kit Contents
1. Fuselage
2. Canopy
3. Cowl
4. Fuel Tank
5. Spinner
6. Engine Mount
7. Main Landing Gear (2)
8. Wheels (2)
9. Wheel Pants (2)
10. Wing Tube
11.
Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator
12. Tail Gear Assembly
13. Vertical Fin & Rudder
14. Wing Panels (L&R)
15. Ailerons (L&R)
16. Flaps (L&R)
(1) Prop Nut Bag (prop nut, spinner, SHCS
and hex wrench)
(8) Heavy Duty Control Horns
(2) Nylon Wing Bolt
(4) Nylon Anti-Rotation Dowels
(1) Tail Wheel Assembly (1-1/4" wheel, 6"
springs, leaf spring, Tail wheel wire, 4 set
screws, steering arm and 3 wheel collars)
(1) Fuel Tank and Hardware
(1) 1/4" x 5/8" [6 x 16mm] Canopy Dowel
(1) Rx and Battery Tray
(1) 3/16" x 3/4" x 4-3/8" [4.8 x 19 x 112mm]
Tank Retainer Stick
(2) Velcro
®
Strips (both A and B sides)
(2) Tail Gear Springs (use to steer the tail wheel)
(2) Large Black Control Horn Backplate
(for elevators)
(2) Decal Sheet
(8) 4-40 Threaded Steel Clevis (for aileron,
flap, rudder and elevator controls)
(8) 4-40 Solder-On Clevis (for aileron, flap,
rudder and elevator controls)
(2) 3-16 x 2" [50mm] Axles
(1) Brass Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector
Body (for throttle)
(6) 4-40 Blind Nut (for canopy mounting)
(10) 8-32 Blind Nuts (for stab, main gear and
engine mount)
(2) 5/16-24 Nuts (for axles)
(2) 1/4-20 Blind Nuts
(8) 4-40 Lock Nuts (for clevises)
(4) 4-40 Lock Nuts (for rudder control horns)
(1) 2-56 Nylon Clevis
(1) Nylon Retainer (for throttle)
(2) CA Hinge Strip
(1) 36" [915mm] Gray Pushrod Tube
(installed in the fuse for the antenna)
(1) 12" [305mm] Gray Pushrod Tube
(for throttle)
(17) Silicone Clevis Retainers
(16) 4 x 1/2" [13mm] Screws (for aileron and
flap control horns)
(4) 6-32 Set Screws
(2) #4 x 5/8" [16mm] Screws (for tail gear)
(1) 4-40 x 1/4" [6mm] SHCS (for throttle)
(6) #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws (for cowl)
(4) 8-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS (for main gear)
(4) 4-40 x 1" [25mm] SHCS (for rudder
control horns)
(10) 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS (for elevators
and canopy mounting)
(4) 4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] SHCS (for wheel pants)
(2) 8-32 x 1-1/4" [32mm] SHCS (for stab)
(8) 8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS (for engine mount
to the firewall and engine to mount)
(4) 3/16" [4.8mm] Wheel Collars
(1) 2-56 x 17" [430mm] Pushrod
(7) 4-40 x 12" [305mm] Pushrod
(6) #2 Flat Washers (for cowl)
(12) #8 Lock Washers (for engine, engine
mount, landing gear and stab)
(14) #8 Flat Washers (for engine, engine
mount, landing gear and stab)
(6) #4 Flat Washers (for canopy and
wheel pants)
Kit Contents (Not Photographed)
1
6
10
11
8
2
15
15
13
12
3
4
5
7
9
14
16
Replacement parts for the Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF are
available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts
List that follows. The fastest, most economical service can
be provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services,
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site at
www.greatplanes.com
. Choose “Where to Buy” at the bottom of
the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the instructions
provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian or International
dealer. If a hobby shop is not available, replacement parts may
also be ordered from Tower Hobbies at
www.towerhobbies.com
,
or by calling toll free (800) 637-6050, or from Hobby Services
by calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721. If
ordering via fax, include a Visa®or MasterCard®number and
expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the
Replacement Parts List
. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason, contact
the appropriate Product Support by e-mail or by telephone
at (217) 398-8970.
partssupport@greatplanes.com
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
Order Number Description How to Purchase
GPMA2379 ............Fuselage Kit ..........................Hobby Supplier
GPMA2378 ............Wing Kit ................................Hobby Supplier
GPMA2380 ............Tail Set ..................................Hobby Supplier
GPMA2382 ............Landing Gear ........................Hobby Supplier
GPMA2381 ............Fiberglass Cowl ....................Hobby Supplier
GPMA2387 ............Canopy/Hatch........................Hobby Supplier
GPMA2383 ............Wheel Pants ..........................Hobby Supplier
GPMA2388 ............Decal Sheet ..........................Hobby Supplier
GPMA2385 ............Tailwheel Assembly ..............Hobby Supplier
GPMA2384 ............Aluminum Spinner ................Hobby Supplier
GPMA2386 ............Aluminum Wing Tube ............Hobby Supplier
GPMA2389 ............Nylon Wing Bolts ..................Hobby Supplier
GPMZ0199 ............Instruction Manual ..............Product Support
Missing pieces ....................Product Support
Full-size plans ..........................Not Available
1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)
❏ 1. If you have not yet done so already, remove the major
parts of the kit from the box (wings, fuse, wheel pants, cowl,
tail parts, etc.) and inspect them for damage. If any parts
are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the
telephone number on page 5.
❏ 2. Carefully remove the masking tape and separate the
ailerons from the wing, the rudder from the fin and the
elevators from the stab. Where necessary, use a covering iron
with a covering sock to tighten the covering that may have
loosened during storage or from removing the masking tape.
Apply pressure over sheeted areas and the servo openings to
thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.
❏ 1. Cut the seven 4-40 x 12" [305mm] pushrods as
listed below.
❏ A. (4) 5" [127mm].
❏ B. (2) 5-1/2" [140mm].
❏ C. (1) 6-3/4" [172mm].
Assemble the Pushrods
PREPARATIONS
METRIC CONVERSIONSORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
6
1/64" = .4 mm
1/32" = .8 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm
1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm
1/4" = 6.4 mm
3/8" = 9.5 mm
1/2" = 12.7 mm
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm
1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm
6" = 152.4 mm
12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm
❏ 2. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to thoroughly
clean one of the pushrods. Use coarse sandpaper to
roughen the end of the pushrod where it is to be soldered.
❏ 3. Apply a few drops of soldering flux to the end of the
pushrod. Position the clevis so that 1/8" [3mm] of the
pushrod protrudes into the open area of the clevis.
❏ 4. Simultaneously heat the clevis and pushrod. Apply silver
solder (GPMR8070) to the joint. The heat of the parts being
soldered should melt the solder, thus allowing it to flow.
❏ 5. Immediately after the solder has solidified, but while it
is still hot, carefully use a cloth to quickly wipe off the flux
before it hardens. IMPORTANT: After the joint cools, coat
with oil to prevent rust. Note: Do not use the acid flux that
comes with silver solder for electrical soldering.
❏ 6.This is what a properly soldered clevis looks like; shiny
solder with good flow, no blobs, flux removed.
❏ 7. Fit a silicone clevis retainer, 4-40 nut, another silicone
clevis retainer and the clevis on the other end of the pushrod.
❏ 8. Make the remaining six pushrods the same way. Note:
The amount that the clevis screws onto the pushrod will be
adjusted when they are installed.
Do the right wing first.
❏ ❏ 1. Trim the covering from both servo openings on the
bottom of the wing.
Mount the Ailerons & Flaps
ASSEMBLE THE WING
7
❏ ❏ 2. Use epoxy to glue in the two nylon wing dowels.
❏ ❏ 3. Cut eight 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25mm] hinges from the 2"
x 9" [50 x 230mm] CA hinge strip. Snip the corners off so
they go in easier.
❏ ❏ 4. Test fit the hinges in the hinge slots of the aileron,
flap and the wing. If you have difficulty inserting the hinges,
insert a #11 blade into the slot and carefully move it back
and forth to slightly widen the slot.
❏ ❏ 5. Test fit the aileron and flap to the wing with the
hinges. Use a fine-point ballpoint pen to mark the aileron,
flap and wing at the middle of each hinge. Note: Align the
outer tip of the aileron with the outer tip of the wing. Leave
a 1/8" [3mm] gap between the flap and the aileron.
❏ ❏ 6. Separate the aileron and flap from the wing and
take out all the hinges.
❏ ❏ 7. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm] deep at the
marks you made in the center of each hinge slot. This space
will allow the CA to “wick” in. Follow with a #11 blade to
clean out the slots. Hint: If available, use a high-speed
rotary tool to drill the holes.
❏ ❏ 8. Cut a small strip of covering from both sides of
each hinge slot. If this is not done the covering may interfere
with the penetration of the CA into the slot and may also
interfere with the free movement of the aileron.
❏ ❏ 9. Stick a pin through the center of each hinge. Fit the
aileron and flap to the wing with the hinges. The pin will keep
the hinge centered. Remove the pins from the hinges. Adjust
the aileron and flaps so there is a small gap–just enough to
see light through or to slip a piece of paper through.
8
❏ ❏ 10. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and bottom side
of each hinge. Do not use CA accelerator. After the CA has fully
hardened, test the hinges by pulling on the aileron and flap.
❏ 11. Repeat steps 1 to 10 for the left wing half.
❏ 1. Add a servo extension to the aileron servo, so that the
total length of the lead will be at least 30" [760mm] from the
servo to the end of the extension. Using tape or heat-shrink
tubing, securely attach the servo extension to the servo.
❏ ❏ 2. Using needle nose pliers, pull the string out of the
right aileron servo hole. Tie the string to the end of the servo
lead. Note: Take care not to pull the string loose from the
root end of the wing.
❏ ❏ 3. Use the string to pull the servo wire through the
wing. Fit the aileron servo in the wing. Slide the flap servo
lead through the wing and fit the flap servo.
❏ ❏ 4. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo mounts
for the servo screws.Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes
and allow to fully harden. Mount the aileron and flap servos
using the hardware that came with the servos.
❏ ❏ 5. Mark the bottom LE of the right aileron 11-1/4"
[286mm] from the inboard end.
❏ ❏ 6. Mark the bottom LE of the right flap 7-1/8" [181mm]
from the inboard end of the aileron.
❏ ❏ 7. Center the control horns on the marks you made and
align the LE of the control horn with the LE of the control
surface. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the plywood plates
using the control horns as a guide. Note: Take care to not drill
through the top of the control surface.
❏ ❏ 8. Mount the control horns using #4 x 1/2" [13mm]
screws. Remove the screws and harden the threads in the
wood with thin CA. Mount the control horns the second time.
Hook Up the Flaps & Ailerons
9
❏ ❏ 9.Turn on the transmitter and receiver to center the servo.
Place the servo arm on the servo. Note: For best performance
1-1/4" [32mm] long servo arms are recommended.
❏ ❏ 10. Attach two of the shortest pushrods to the outer holes
on the servo arms and the control horns. Adjust the length of
the pushrods so that the aileron aligns with the wing tip. Adjust
the flap pushrod so that the flap aligns with the aileron.
❏ 11. Repeat steps 2 to 10 for the left wing half.
❏ 1. Remove the covering from the wing tube holes, servo
lead holes, wing bolt holes and anti-rotation dowel holes.
❏ 2. Using a 9/64" hex wrench, remove the two 8-32 x 1-1/4"
[32mm] socket head cap screws from the stab fillet.
❏ 3. Use a #11 blade to cut between the false stab and the
stab fillet.
❏ 4. Fit the aluminum wing tube through the fuse. Slide the
wing panels on the tube and bolt them in place with the
1/4-20 x 1" [25mm] nylon bolts.
❏ 1. Attach the elevators to the stab with the same hinging
technique used for the ailerons.
❏ 2. Bolt the stab and stab fillet in place with the 8-32 x
1-1/4" [32mm] socket head cap screws. Check that the stab
aligns with the wing. If it does not, sand the stab saddle in
small increments until they do align. Note: If you don’t plan
on removing the stab, glue the bolts in with medium CA. If
Mount the Stab & Fin
Mount the Wing
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
10
you do plan on removing it, make sure to check the tightness
of the screws often.
❏ 3. Use a #11 blade to remove the covering from the fin slot.
❏ 4. Fit the fin in place and mark the covering on the fin
where it contacts the fuse.
❏ 5. Refer to the
Expert Tip
that follows, then trim the covering
1/8" [3mm] below the lines you made on the fin. Be very careful
not to cut into the fin itself. Wipe away the marks on the fin you
made in the previous step.The epoxy used in the next step will
make removing those lines difficult. DO NOT remove the
covering from the TE of the fin.
❏ 6. Check that the fin is perpendicular to the stab. If it’s not,
then adjust the fin slot until the fin is perpendicular to the stab.
❏ 7. If you want the stab to be removable, remove the stab
so that the epoxy from the fin does not mistakenly glue the
stab. Apply 6-minute epoxy to all joining surfaces of the fin.
Fit the fin in place, aligning the TE of the fin with the TE of
the fuse.
❏ 8. Attach the rudder to the fin with the same hinging
technique used for the ailerons.
❏ 1. Temporarily assemble the tail gear, making a point to
mark the tail gear wire with the set screws.
Mount the Landing Gear
To avoid cutting into the balsa, use a soldering iron instead
of a hobby knife to cut the covering. The tip of the soldering
iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine tip does work best.
Allow the iron to heat fully. Use a straightedge to guide the
soldering iron at a rate that will just melt the covering and
not burn into the wood. The hotter the soldering iron, the
faster it must move to melt a fine cut.
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
11
❏ 2. Remove steering arm and tailwheel from the wire. File
flat spots on the wire for the set screws. Note: DO NOT file
a flat spot for the wheel collar shown on the wire as this will
weaken the wire at a high stress point.
❏ 3. Re-assemble the tail gear.
❏ 4. Place the tail gear on the bottom of the fuse, aligning
the bend of the gear with the aft end of the fuse. Drill two
1/16" [1.6mm] pilot holes for the #4 x 5/8" [16mm] screws.
Turn the screws into the holes. Remove the screws and
harden the threads in the wood with thin CA. Remount the
tail gear.
❏ 5. Remove the covering from the four landing gear bolt
holes. Mount the landing gear to the fuse with four 8-32 x
3/4" [19mm] SHCS, #8 flat washers and #8 lock washers.
Be sure to add a drop of Threadlocker to each screw and
securely tighten.
❏ 6. Mount the 3/16" x 2" [4.8 x 50mm] axles to the landing
gear with the 5/16-24 nuts.
❏ ❏ 7. Temporarily mount a wheel to one axle with two
3/16" [4.8mm] wheel collars aligning the outer wheel collar
with the end of the axle.
❏ ❏ 8. Remove the wheel collars from the axle and file flat
spots on the axle for the set screws.
❏ ❏ 9. Add a drop of Threadlocker to the set screw. Install
the wheel collars and wheels.
❏ ❏ 10. Fasten the wheel pant to the landing gear with two
4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] screws.
❏ 11. Return to step 7 and mount the other wheel and pant
to the left landing gear the same way.
12
❏ 1. Draw a vertical line on the firewall using the embossed
lines as a guide. Note: This line is offset to the left so that the
spinner will be centered on the cowl.
❏ 2. Trim the spreader bars from both halves of the engine
mount. Mount the engine mount to the firewall with four
8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS, #8 flat washers and #8 lock
washers, but do not fully tighten the bolts.
❏ 3. Adjust the width of the mount to fit the engine. Center
the molded-in “tick” marks on the engine mount equally to
the left and right of the vertical line on the firewall. Tighten
the mounting bolts.
❏ 4. Place the backplate of the spinner on the engine.
❏ 5. Use small clamps or another method to temporarily
secure the engine to the mount with the backplate of the
spinner 6" [152mm] from the firewall. Use the Great Planes
Dead Center™Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130) or
your preferred method to mark the engine mount holes onto
the engine mount.
❏ 6. Remove the engine from the mount. Drill #29 holes
through the mount at the marks you made.Tap 8-32 threads
into the mount. Mount the engine to the mount with four 8-32
x 1" [25mm] SHCS, #8 flat washers and #8 lock washers.
❏ 1. Place the cowl on the fuse. Mount the spinner and
prop to the engine. Position the cowl on the fuse so it is in
alignment with the spinner. Be certain there is at least a
3/32" [2.5mm] gap between the front of the cowl and the
backplate of the spinner. It may be helpful to have an
assistant hold the cowl for you.
❏ 2. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the cowl and fuse
side centered vertically and 1/2" [13mm] forward of the aft
edge of the cowl. Mount the cowl to the fuse with a #2 x 1/2"
[13mm] screw and a #2 washer.
Mount the Cowl
Mount the Engine
13
❏ 3. With your assistant holding the cowl in position, drill
holes 2" [50mm] above and below the first screw. Secure
this side of the cowl with two more #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws
and #2 washers.
❏ 4. Secure the other side of the cowl with three #2 x 1/2"
[13mm] screws and #2 washers.
❏ 5. Remove the cowl. Harden the threads in the fuse with
thin CA.
❏ 6. Use thin cardboard or plastic to make templates for
the muffler, mixture screw, filler valve and glow plug cutouts
in the cowl. Tape the template(s) to the fuselage, accurately
indicating the positions. Note: With this engine installation
we installed the muffler bolts through two 1/4" [6mm] holes
in the right side of the cowl.
❏ 7. Remount the cowl under the templates. Use a felt-tip
pen to transfer the holes in the template onto the cowl.
Remove the templates and the cowl.
❏ 8. Cut out the holes in the cowl with a high-speed rotary
tool and a small cutting bit.
❏ 9. Cut the air opening in the front of the cowl as shown.
The shape of the hole is not that important, but you’ll need
a hole at least as big as shown in the photo. Note: Do not
remount the cowl. The fuel tank, fuel line and throttle
pushrod still need to be installed.
14
❏ 1. Roughen the outside of the 11-3/4" [300mm] gray
outer pushrod tube with coarse sand paper. Fit the tube
through the firewall and the second former, leaving 1/2"
[13mm] protruding from the firewall. Glue the tube to the
firewall and the second former with thin CA.
❏ 2. Arrange the stopper and tubes as shown in the photo,
then insert them into the fuel tank. Tighten the screw to
expand the stopper, thus sealing the fuel tank. Be certain the
fuel line weights (clunks) at the end of the fuel lines inside the
fuel tank do not contact the rear of the fuel tank. Otherwise,
the lines may become stuck above the fuel level and
discontinue fuel flow. Remember (or use a felt-tip pen to mark)
the fuel pick-up tube, fuel fill tube and the vent tube (that will
be connected to the pressure fitting on the engine’s muffler).
❏ 3. Install the fuel tank in the fuse. Fit the neck through the
hole in the firewall. Be certain the vent tube inside the fuel
tank is pointing upward.
❏ 4. Glue a 1/4" x 3/4" x 4-7/16" [6 x 19 x 123mm] balsa
stick to the fuse to hold the fuel tank in place.
❏ 5. Attach a piece of fuel line to one of the tubes that has
a clunk on it and the fuel inlet tube on your engine.
❏ 6. Drill a 1/4" [6mm] hole, 1" [25mm] above the motor mount.
❏ 7. Drill a 1/4" [6mm] hole in the side of the fuse in roughly
the spot shown. Note: Take special care to not drill into
the fuel tank.
❏ 8. Harden the hole in the balsa fuselage side with thin
CA. After the CA has hardened attach fuel line to the
second tube that has a clunk on it and route it through the
hole in the firewall and the hole in the side of the fuse. Cut
the fuel line so that 4" [100mm] is protruding from the fuse
side. Use a Great Planes Aluminum Fuel Line Plug (not
included) to plug this fill line.
❏ 9. Attach a piece of fuel line to the vent tube on the fuel
tank and leave it long enough to reach the pressure tap on
the muffler.
Install the Fuel Tank
15
❏ 1. Add servo extensions to the three tail surface servos
so that the total length of each lead will be at least 48"
[1220mm] from the servo to the end of the extension. Using
tape or heat-shrink tubing, securely attach the servo
extension to the servo. Note: Use 36" [914mm] extensions
with Futaba servos to get the 48" [1220mm] length.
❏ 2.Trim the covering from the three tail servo holes. Fit the
servos in the fuse, feeding the wires forward to the hatch
opening. Note: The servo output shafts on all the tail servos
go toward the rear of the airplane.
❏ 3. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo mount for
the servo screws. Insert the servo screws and remove
them, then harden the holes with thin CA. Mount the tail
servos using the hardware that came with the servos.
❏ 4. Mark the bottom LE of both elevators 1" [25mm] from
the inboard edge. Position the control horns centered over
the marks with the clevis holes perpendicular to the hinge
line. Mark the hole locations on the elevators. Drill 1/8"
[3mm] holes through the elevators at each of the marks.
❏ 5. Mount the control horns using the 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm]
SHCS and the nylon backing plate on the top of the elevators.
❏ 6. Make a mark 3/4" [19mm] from the bottom of the
rudder. Position the control horn centered over the mark
with the clevis holes perpendicular to the hinge line. Mark
the hole locations on the rudder. Drill 1/8" [3mm] holes
through the rudder at each of the marks.
❏ 7. Fit the first control horn onto the rudder with four 4-40
x 1" [25mm] SHCS. Attach the second control horn to the
other side of the rudder with four 4-40 lock nuts.
❏ 8. Turn on the transmitter and receiver to center the servo.
Place the elevator arms pointing straight up and the rudder
servo arm straight down. Note: For best performance 1-1/4"
[32mm] long servo arms are recommended.
Mount the Tail Servos
FINAL ASSEMBLY
16
❏ 9. Attach the 6-3/4" [172mm] pushrod to the outer holes
on the rudder servo arm and the second to outer hole on
the control horn. Adjust the length of the pushrod so that the
rudder lines up with the fin.
❏ 10. Attach the two tail gear springs to the inner holes on
the control horns and the tail gear steering arm. Wrap the
ends around the wires at least twice and trim off the
excessive wire.
❏ 11. Mount the stab to the fuse.
❏ 12. Attach the 5-1/2" [140mm] pushrods to the outer holes
on the elevator servo arms and the middle hole on the control
horns. Adjust the length of the pushrods so that the elevators
lines up with the stab.
❏ 13. Double-check that the elevators align with the stab and
the rudder aligns with the fin. Tighten the 4-40 nuts against the
clevises. Slide the silicone retainers over the clevises.
❏ 1. Screw the nylon clevis 15 full turns onto the 17-1/2"
[445mm] throttle pushrod. Slide the throttle pushrod into the
plastic outer pushrod tube, attaching the clevis to the
throttle arm. Note: Bend the pushrod as necessary for
smooth operation.
❏ 2. Fit the throttle servo in the tray, but do not screw it in
place at this time.
❏ 3. Connect the throttle pushrod to the throttle servo with
the screw-lock pushrod connector.
❏ 4. Let the pushrod locate the servo in the tray. Mount the
servo to the servo tray with the hardware provided with
your servo.
Install the Throttle Servo, Receiver
& Battery
17
❏ 5. Mount the cowl, prop, muffler and spinner.
❏ 6. Wrap the battery pack in 1/2" [13mm] of R/C foam
rubber and use the Velcro®strap to mount it to one of the
battery/receiver trays. Fit the tray in the fuselage under the
fuel tank and glue it to the fuse sides with medium CA.
❏ 7. Wrap the receiver in 1/2" [13mm] of R/C foam rubber
and use the Velcro strap to mount it to one of the
battery/receiver trays. Fit the tray in the fuselage behind the
wing tube and glue it to the fuse sides with medium CA.
❏ 8. Extend the receiver antenna and guide it down the
antenna tube in the fuse. Retain the end of the antenna with
a 1/4" [6mm] piece of fuel line slid over the antenna tube.
❏ 9. Mount the receiver on/off switch and charge jack.
❏ 1. Glue the 1/4" x 5/8" [6 x 16mm] dowel in the hole in
the front of the canopy hatch assembly.
❏ 2. Mount the hatch to the fuse with two 4-40 x 3/4"
[19mm] SHCS.
❏ 1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals
from the sheet.
❏ 2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily
fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket
with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water–about
one teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse the
decal in the soap and water and peel off the paper backing.
Note: Even though the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not
the water transfer type, submersing them in soap & water allows
accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
Apply the Decals
Mount the Canopy
18
❏ 3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
❏ 4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to
squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the
rest of the decals the same way.
❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If
any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the
servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Confirm the control surfaces
have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
Use a ruler to accurately measure and set the control throw of
each control surface as indicated in the chart that follows. If
your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend setting the
throws at the low rate settings. Note: The throws are measured
at the widest part of the elevators, rudder and ailerons.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine, landing
gear, covering and the radio system.
❏ 1.Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm] wide tape to accurately
mark the C.G. on the top of the wing. The C.G. is located
6-1/4" [160mm] back from the leading edge of the wing.
This is where your model should balance for the first
flights. Later you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 1/2" [13mm] forward or 1/2" [13mm] back to
change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward
may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model
may then require more speed for take off and make it
more difficult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G. aft
makes the model more maneuverable, but could also
cause it to become too difficult to control. In any case,
start at the recommended balance point and do not at
any time balance the model outside the specified range.
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be
successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT
PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unflyable.
Balance the Model (C.G.)
IMPORTANT: The Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF has been
extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws at
which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will
provide you with the greatest chance for successful first
flights. If, after you have become accustomed to the way the
Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF flies, you would like to change
the throws to suit your taste, that is fine. However, too much
control throw could make the model difficult to control, so
remember, “more is not always better.”
These are the recommended control surface throws:
High Rate (3D) Low Rate
ELEVATOR: 5" [130mm] up 1-3/4" [45mm] up
5" [130mm] down 1-3/4" [45mm] down
RUDDER: 6" [150mm] right 4" [100mm] right
6" [150mm] left 4" [100mm] left
AILERONS: 2-3/4" [70mm] up 1-1/4" [32mm] up
2-3/4" [70mm] down 1-1/4" [32mm] down
FLAPS: 4" [100mm] full 2-3/4" [70mm] half
Set the Control Throws
Check the Control Directions
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
19
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
4-CHANNEL
ELEVATOR MOVES UP
RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
RUDDER MOVES RIGHT
CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, place
the model upside-down on a Great Planes CG Machine, or
lift it upside-down at the balance point you marked.
❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the
battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or
weight must be added to the nose to balance. If the nose
drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack
and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight must be added
to the tail to balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack
and receiver to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast
required. If additional weight is required, nose weight may
be easily added by using a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for
the 1 oz. weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. weight). If
spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add
stick-on nose weight is to the firewall (don’t attach weight to
the cowl–it is not intended to support weight). Begin by
placing incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the
bottom of the fuse over the firewall until the model balances.
Once you have determined the amount of weight required,
it can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight may
be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuse and gluing
it permanently inside.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone
or epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any
weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fin. Do this several times.
❏ 2. If one wing always drops even a small amount when
you lift the model, it means that side is heavy. Balance the
airplane by adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane
that has been laterally balanced will track better in loops
and other maneuvers.
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if
you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
identification tag on the decal sheet and place it on or inside
your model.
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the
night before you go flying and at other times as
recommended by the radio manufacturer.
Note: Checking the condition of your receiver battery pack
is highly recommended. All battery packs, whether it’s a
trusty pack you’ve just taken out of another model, or a new
battery pack you just purchased, should be cycled, noting
the discharge capacity. Often times, a weak battery pack
can be identified (and a valuable model saved!) by
comparing its actual capacity to its rated capacity. Refer to
the instructions and recommendations that come with your
cycler. If you don’t own a battery cycler, perhaps you can
have a friend cycle your pack and note the capacity for you.
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most
significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.
Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run hot or quit. We keep a Great Planes Fingertip
Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
Balance the Propellers
Charge the Batteries
Identify Your Model
PREFLIGHT
Balance the Model Laterally
20
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confirm
that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and
rapidly to full power and maintains full power–indefinitely.
After you run the engine on the model, inspect the model
closely to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges
are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and
connectors are secure.
Ground check the operational range of your radio before the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections
or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,
poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or
a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore,
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the
plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain the
glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop
off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.
To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off
the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. Do not throw anything
into the propeller of a running engine.
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to
Model Aviation
magazine, the AMA web site
or the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously
successfully flight tested.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right of way to and avoid flying in
the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by
an experienced helper.
3. I will perform my initial turn after take off away from the pit
or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Range Check
Ground Check
21
4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust
residue such as the wing saddle area, etc.
❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place
with foam rubber is not sufficient.
❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a
strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the
solder joint inside the receiver.
❏ 5. Balance your model
laterally
as explained in
the instructions.
❏ 6. Use thread-locking compound to secure critical
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel
axles to the screws that hold the carburetor arm (if
applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
turn freely.
❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl mounting
screws, etc.).
❏ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.
❏ 12. Secure connections between servo wires and
Y-connectors or servo extensions and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat-shrink tubing or special clips suitable
for that purpose.
❏ 13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
❏ 14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with
high temp RTV silicone, thread-locking compound or
J.B. Weld.
❏ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
not kinked.
❏ 16. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 17. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 18. Place your name, address, AMA number and
telephone number on or inside your model.
❏ 19. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
❏ 20. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your first flight.
❏ 21. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.
The Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF is a great-flying model that
flies smoothly and predictably. The Giant U-CAN-DO 3D
ARF does not, however, possess the self-recovery
characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should be flown
only by experienced R/C pilots.
Whether you are looking to practice new 3D maneuvers and
don’t want to risk your competition aircraft, or are just
starting to learn the most basic aerobatics, the Giant U-CANDO 3D ARF is a great choice. Regardless of your skill level,
be sure your first flight begins with low rates (yes, even in a
crosswind) and that you gradually expand your flight
envelope, adding one new maneuver at a time.
Take offs, landings and most of your normal flights should
be flown on low rates. (If your radio does not have dual
rates, be sure to set the model up on the low rates
provided.) The high rates on this model are meant ONLY
for use when doing 3D aerobatics – maneuvers
performed while the model is flying slower than its
normal stall speed. That includes maneuvers as simple as
a stall turn, or as complex as harrier rolls.
Don’t get spoiled by how incredibly well the Giant U-CANDO 3D ARF hangs and torque rolls! Most models take an
enormous amount of work to keep the model stationary in a
hanger, but the unique design of Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF
helps lock it solid in position and torque roll and hang with
relative ease.
This is a high-performance 3D aerobatic aircraft. It is not
designed for, and cannot withstand, high speeds. Please
know that we have tested this model VERY extensively, with
literally over 100 flights across numerous test models with a
huge range of power plants.
FOR YOUR SAFETY AND THE SAFETY OF YOUR
MODEL, PLEASE:
1. DO NOT exceed the engine recommendations of 1.60
cu in [26.0cc] glow or 2.5 cu in [41.0cc] gas.
2. DO NOT exceed the maximum pitch for your propeller of
8" (i.e. 18x6 not 16x10).
3. DO NOT fly the model at full throttle, except on climbs of
at least 10 degrees (no straight and level and no wide
open dives).
4. DO NOT allow the model’s tail surfaces to be hit,
pushed, pressed upon or otherwise damaged during
handling or during extreme flight maneuvers.
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture
Fuel Mixture Adjustments
Important Reminders
FLYING
CHECK LIST
22
should be richened so the engine runs at about 200 RPM
below peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you
will help prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating.
Before you get ready to take off, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tailwheel on
the ground. If necessary, adjust the tailwheel so the model
will roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your
nerves before the maiden flight, shut the engine down and
bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then
check all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.
Remember to take off into the wind. When you’re ready,
point the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up
elevator to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tailwheel
steering, then gradually advance the throttle. As the model
gains speed decrease up elevator, allowing the tail to come
off the ground. One of the most important things to
remember with a taildragger is to always be ready to apply
right rudder to counteract engine torque. Gain as much
speed as your runway and flying site will practically allow
before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into the
air. At this moment it is likely that you will need to apply more
right rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on the
elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle climb
to a safe altitude before turning into the traffic pattern.
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you. Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for
take off, most models fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.
Take it easy with the Giant U-CAN-DO 3D ARF for the first
few flights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain
confidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level
flight. After flying around for a while and while still at a safe
altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and execute
practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see
how the model handles at slower speeds. Add power to see
how she climbs as well. Continue to fly around, executing
various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having
your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.
changes may be required to fine tune the model so it flies
the way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this first flight
to become familiar with your model before landing.
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch
downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose
altitude, but maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as
you turn onto the crosswind leg. Make your final turn toward
the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to
maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the
model reaches the runway threshold, modulating the throttle
as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If
you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle
(always ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and
climb out to make another attempt. When you’re ready to
make your landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the
deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches
down. Once the model is on the runway and has lost flying
speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the ground,
regaining tailwheel control.
One final note about flying your model. Have a goal or flight
plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know, or
learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such
as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to improve
your skills
(though it is never a bad idea!)
, but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do
a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction
(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to
maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top and
make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low rates).
A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing your
model just because of poor planning and impulsive moves.
Remember to think. Have a ball! But always stay in
control and fly in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
Landing
Flight
Take Off
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such
as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface
flutter
. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an
aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such as a wing or
stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise).
In extreme cases, if not detected immediately, flutter can
actually cause the control surface to detach or the flying
surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by an
impending crash. The best thing to do when flutter is
detected is to slow the model immediately by reducing
power, then land as soon as safely possible. Identify which
surface fluttered (so the problem may be resolved) by
checking all the servo grommets for deterioration or signs of
vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are secure and
free of play. If it fluttered once, under similar circumstances it
will probably flutter again unless the problem is fixed. Some
things which can cause flutter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not
mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn;
Side-play of wire pushrods caused by large bends;
Excessive free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting;
and one of the most prevalent causes of flutter; Flying an
over-powered model at excessive speeds.
23
BUILDING NOTES
Kit Purchased Date: _______________________
Where Purchased:_________________________
Date Construction Started: __________________
Date Construction Finished: _________________
Finished Weight: __________________________
Date of First Flight: ________________________
FLIGHT LOG
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