Great Planes GPMA1265, GPMA1266 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

IMPORTANT NOTE: This model is designed for sport flying and AMA Quickie 500 racing. We will not quote all of the AMA regulations for Quickie 500 racing in this manual.Any information provided here regarding racing is provided for informational purposes only and is NOT guaranteed to be accurate. Only the printed version of the AMA regulations should be used in case of protests or other disputes involving events covered by the regulations.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Champaign, IL

(217) 398-8970, Ext. 5

airsupport@greatplanes.com

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 52 in [1320mm] Wing Area: 504 sq in [33dm²] Weight: 3.5 lbs - 4 lbs [1360 - 1530g] Wing Loading: 14 - 15 oz/sq ft [42 - 47 g/dm²] Length: 41-1/4 in [1048mm] Engine: .25 - .46 cu in [4.0 - 7.5cc] two-stroke

INTRODUCTION................................................................2

COMPETITION ..................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..................................................2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ........................................3

Radio Equipment.........................................................3

Engine Recommendations...........................................3

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.....................................3

Adhesives & Building Supplies....................................3

Optional Supplies & Tools ............................................4

Covering Tools .............................................................4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES.......................................4

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS ............................................4

MANUAL UPDATES..........................................................4

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS ...............................5

METRIC/INCH RULER ......................................................5

KIT CONTENTS .................................................................6

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS..............................................7

Preparations.................................................................7

BUILD THE WING & T AIL..................................................7

Mount the Ailerons .......................................................7

Install the Aileron Servo & Pushrods...........................8

Assemble & Mount the V-tail........................................9

FINAL ASSEMBLY ..........................................................10

Mount the Engine.......................................................10

Mount the Landing Gear............................................12

Install the Radio.........................................................13

Optional Rudder Modifications...................................16

Apply the Decals ........................................................17

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY..................................18

Check the Control Directions.....................................18

Set the Control Throws..............................................18

Balance the Model (C.G.)..........................................18

Balance the Model Laterally......................................19

PREFLIGHT.....................................................................19

Identify Your Model.....................................................19

Charge the Batteries ..................................................19

Balance the Propellers...............................................20

Ground Check............................................................20

Range Check.............................................................20

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.................................20

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)......................................21

CHECK LIST ....................................................................21

FLYING.............................................................................22

Fuel Mixture Adjustments..........................................22

Takeoff .......................................................................22

Flight..........................................................................22

Landing......................................................................23

ID Tag.........................................................................23

Once they’ve mastered a trainer and some sport models, many modelers find “the need for speed.” Whether you’re ready for your first Quickie 500 race, you’ve been racing for years, or never plan to race anyone but yourself, the Viper

500 ARF is a great choice for you.This aircraft is fast and responsive, yet predictable – an overall real pleasure to fly. Of course, a Quickie 500 is not recommended as a second aircraft, but if you can comfortably fly most sport models, then the Viper 500 ARF should pose no surprises other than the thrill of speed! Remember, if the model’s speed overwhelms you, just throttle back and enjoy the Viper’s ability to settle back into “sport mode.” Then you can fly at reasonable speeds until your confidence and skill are up to their full-speed adrenaline rush!

The Viper 500 ARF is designed for sport flying and AMA Quickie 500 pylon racing competition according to the regulations as written at the time of this printing. Great Planes does not guarantee that the model will be legal for future competitive events, nor qualification of this model in any such competitions. All liability for any events incidental to the use of this model in any manner is the sole

responsibility

of the pilot and the pilot’s insurance, not Great Planes. If interested in Quickie 500 competition, we recommend you

contact the AMA and receive a copy of the full competition regulations. You can download a reference version at www.modelaircraft.org, but please note that the AMA does not recognize the digital copy for protests.

1.Your Viper 500 ARF should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the Viper 500 ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct.

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition, and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

COMPETITION

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

6.You must check the operation of the model before every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you should fly the model only with the help of a competent, experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and

true.

If you have not flown this type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots.

In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend you join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its members who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way.

Contact

the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:

This is a partial list of items required to finish the Viper 500 ARF that may require planning or decision-making before starting to build. Order numbers are provided in

parentheses.

❏ Receiver: standard size, minimum 4-channel.

Note: Due to the unusually high speeds and stresses placed upon racing models such as the Viper 500 ARF,

lightweight components such as “micro” or “feather” receivers normally intended for lightweight airplanes (such as Park Flyers) should not be used. The Futaba

R148DF or R148DP receivers are suitable. Additionally, due to the space constraints of the radio compartment, make certain the components fit before purchasing new gear.

❏ 250mAh Lightweight receiver pack:(FUTM1210) ❏ Servo extensions: (2) 9" extensions to allow easy

connection of throttle and aileron servos (FUTM3910)

❏ Switch: Standard, with heatshr ink to secure to batter y ❏ Servos: (4), 3 requir ing 35 oz-in of torque ❏ Servo recommendations: The Viper 500 ARF is

designed to fit a wide variety of servos. All ser vos may be mid-size or standard-size servos, so long as they provide at least 35 ounces-inch of torque. The throttle servo may be micro through standard, so long as it provides sufficient torque to operate your carburetor.

The recommended engine size range for the Viper 500 ARF is .25 to .46 cu in [4.0 – 7.5cc] two-stroke.This model is not designed for a four-stroke. As of the time of this writing, the maximum power plant allowed for Quickie 500 racing is a .40 [6.5cc] two-stroke, and only front-intake, side-exhaust, commercially available, unmodified engines with stock carburetors, utilizing approved propellers and fuels, are permitted.

In addition to common household tools and hobby tools, this is the “short list” of the most important items required to build the Viper 500 ARF.

Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy

glue are recommended.

❏ 1/2 oz Thin CA (GPMR6001) ❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/16" [4.8mm], 1/4" [6.4mm] ❏ R/C foam rubber 1/4" [6mm] - (HCAQ1000) ❏ R/C foam rubber 1/2" [13mm] - (HCAQ1050) ❏ Fiberglass cloth to secure the throttle pushrod

Adhesives & Building Supplies

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

REMEMBER: We will not quote all of the AMA regulations for Quickie 500 racing in this manual.Any information regarding racing is provided for informational purposes only and is NOT guaranteed to be accurate. Only the printed version of the AMA regulations should be used in case of protests or other disputes involving events contained in the regulations.

Engine Recommendations

Radio Equipment

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Tele: (800) 435-9262

Fax (765) 741-0057

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that will help you build the Viper 500 ARF.

❏ Hobbico

Heavy-Duty Scissors 8-1/2" (HCAR0670)

❏ 2-56 and 6-32 Taps ❏ AccuThrow

™

Control Surface Deflection Meter

(GPMR2405)

❏ CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ 4-in-1 Clevis Installation Tool (GPMR8035)

❏ Top Flite

MonoKote®sealing iron (TOPR2100)

❏ Top Flite Hot Sock iron cover (TOPR2175) ❏ Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200) ❏ Top Flite MonoKote heat gun (TOPR2000)

• There are two types of screws used in this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a length. For example #6 x 3/4".

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" long.

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per inch, and a length.SHCS is just an abbreviation for “socket

head cap screw” and that is a machine screw with a socket head. For example 4-40 x 3/4".

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" long with forty

threads per inch.

•

When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it means that you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y for the best fit.

•

Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely upon your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

• Photos and sketches are placed

before

the step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get another view of the same parts.

• The Viper 500 ARF is factory-covered with Top Flite

MonoKote film. Should repairs ever be required, MonoKote can be patched with additional MonoKote purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls , but some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote is applied with a model airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a regular iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full instructions for application.Follo wing are the colors used on this model and order numbers for six foot rolls.

Red–TOPQ0201

White–TOPQ0204

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Vertical Fin

LE = Leading Edge

TE = Trailing Edge LG = Landing Gear Ply = Plywood

" = Inches

mm = millimeters

SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the Viper 500 ARF, visit the Great Planes web site at

www.greatplanes.com

. Open the “Airplanes” link, then select the Viper 500 ARF. If there is new technical information or changes to this model, a “tech notice”box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.

Do not discard the kit box! With minimal disassembly, the Viper 500 ARF can be reinserted into its box for transport and even shipment to contests!

MANUAL UPDATES

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

Covering T ools

Optional Supplies & Tools

To order replacement par ts for the Great Planes Viper 500 ARF, use the order numbers in the Replacement Par ts List that follows. Replacement parts are available only as listed. Not all parts are available separately (an aileron cannot be purchased separately, but is only available with the wing kit).Replacement parts are not available from Product Support, but can be purchased from hobby shops or mail order/Internet order firms. Hardware items (screws, nuts, bolts) are also available from these outlets.If you need assistance locating a dealer to purchase parts, visit www.greatplanes.com and click on “Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing par ts, contact Great Planes Product Support.

Replacement Parts List

Order Number Description How to Pur

chase

Missing pieces.....................Contact Product Suppor t

Instruction manual...............Contact Product Support

White Version Red Version Full-size plans.....................Not available

(GPMA1265) (GPMA1266)

GPMA2500 GPMA2505 Wing Kit GPMA2501 GPMA2506 Fuse Kit GPMA2502 GPMA2507 Tail Set GPMA2503 GPMA2508 Landing Gear GPMA2550 Backplate Mount GPMA2551 Racing Wheel Set (w/hardware) GPMA2552 Fuel Tank GPMA2553 Decal *Motor mount available separately

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

................

Contact Your Hobby Supplier to Purchase These Items

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Inch Scale

Metric Scale

To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4

1 Wing and Ailerons 2 Tank Hatch 3 Throttle Ser vo Tray 4 V-tail Servo Tray 5 Ser vo Hatch 6 Hook and Loop Material 7 Fuselage 8 Engine Mount 9 Landing Gear

10 Wheels 11 Aileron Servo Rails 12 V-tail Servo Supports 13 V-tail with Ruddervators

(2) Aileron Torque Rod Horns (5) Nylon Clevises (2) 6" [150mm] Pushrods (1) 11-3/4" Outer Pushrod Tube (3) 17-1/2" [445mm] Pushrods (5) Clevis Retainers (4) Nylon Faslinks (GPMQ3820) (1) Screw-Lock Connector (for throttle,

GPMQ3870) (2) Control Horns w/Backplates (4) 2-56 x 3/8" Control Horn Screws

(GPMQ3900)

(4) 6-32 x 1/2" [13mm] Socket Head Cap

Screws (to mount engine,

GPMQ3028)

(4) 8-32 x 1-1/2" [38mm] Flat-Head Screws

(to mount tail, wing,

GPMQ3052)

(2) 8-32 x 3/4" [38mm] Flat-Head Screws

(to mount wing, GPMQ3046)

(4) 6-32 x 1/4" Bolts (for main landing

gear, GPMQ3024)

(5) #2 x 3/8" Screws (to mount servo tray

and hatch, GPMQ3820)

(1) #2 Washers (to mount servo tray and

hatch, GPMR3400)

(1) 2" x 9" CA Hinge Strip (GPMQ3960) (1) Tail Skid (GPMQ4445) (2) Axles

Kit Contents (Photographed)

Kit Contents (Not Photographed)

Before starting to build, use the Kit Contents list to take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Great Planes Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the par t names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list on this page.

Great Planes Product Support:

Telephone: (217) 398-8970

Fax: (217) 398-7721

E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com

KIT CONTENTS

❏ 1. If you have not yet done so already, remove the parts

of the kit from the box and inspect them for damage. If any parts are damaged or missing, contact product suppor t at the address or telephone number on page 6. Note: With minor disassembly, the plane will fit back into the box. This makes a great way to transport your plane to races.

❏ 2. Remove the masking tape and separate the ailerons

from the wing and the ruddervators from the V-tail. Where necessary, use a covering iron with a covering sock to tighten the covering that may have loosened during storage or from removing the masking tape. Apply pressure over sheeted areas and the servo openings to thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.

❏ 1. Looking at the bottom of the wing as shown in the top

photo (the aileron torque rods protrude from the bottom of the wing), cut the covering from the servo opening and the bottom of the four wing bolt holes. Tur n the wing over and cut the covering from the top of the 4 bolt holes.

❏ 2. Cut six 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25mm] hinges from the 2" x 9"

[50 x 230mm] CA hinge strip.Snip the corners off so they go in the hinge slots more easily.

Mount the Ailerons

BUILD THE WING & TAIL

All iron-on coverings sag due to extreme temperature and humidity changes, often encountered during shipment and warehouse storage. In nearly every case of an ARF having sagged covering, this is the cause, and a quick touch-up will solve the problem.To be sure, simply touch up your model’s covering, then let it sit overnight. The covering should remain taut and will be fine from here on. If the covering has re-sagged significantly on any portion of the model, please contact Product Support regarding replacement.

Preparations

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

❏ 3.Test fit, but do not glue the aileron to the wing with the

hinges. If you have difficulty inserting the hinges, insert a #11 blade into the slot and carefully move it back and forth to slightly widen the slot.

❏ 4. Separate the ailerons from the wing and take out all

the hinges.

❏ 5. Cut a small strip of covering from both sides of each

hinge slot. If not done the covering may interfere with the penetration of the CA into the slot and the free movement of the aileron.

❏ 6. Stick a pin through the center of each hinge. Fit the

hinges into the ailerons. Use a toothpick to push epoxy into the torque rod hole in the aileron.Fit the ailerons to the wing

with the hinges. The pin will keep the hinge centered. Remove the pins from the hinges. Adjust the ailerons so there is a small gap–just enough to see light through or to slip a piece of paper through.

❏ 7. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and bottom of

each hinge. Do not use CA accelerator. Gently work the aileron up and down while the glue hardens. After the CA has fully hardened, test the hinges by pulling on the ailerons.

❏ 1. Test fit the aileron servo and the 3/8" x 3/8" x 1-1/4"

[9.5 x 9.5 x 32mm] basswood aileron servo rails in the wing. Mark the covering around the rails. Remove the covering from the contact area between the rails and the wing.Epoxy the rails to the wing.

❏ 2. Mar k and drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo

rails for the servo screws. Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes and allow to fully harden. Mount the aileron servo using the hardware that came with the servo.

❏ 3. Make a two-sided servo arm. Enlarge the holes in the

arm with a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64"

[2mm]

drill bit) so the aileron pushrods will fit.

❏ 4. Thread both nylon torque rod horns onto the aileron

torque rods until the edge of the horn aligns with the edge of the rods. Note: Tur ning a 6-32 tap through the hor ns will make them turn onto the torque rods easier.

Install the Aileron Servo & Pushrods

❏ 5. Thread a clevis 20 full turns onto each of the 6"

[150mm] pushrods.

❏ 6. Attach the clevises to the torque rod horns. With the

servo centered, the servo arm parallel to the LE of the wings and the ailerons centered, use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the spot that the pushrods cross the outermost holes in the servo arm.

❏ 7.Slide the silicone retainers over the pushrods and onto

the clevises. Bend the pushrod upward 90 degrees on the mark you made. Attach the pushrods to the ser vo arm with two Faslinks .Cut off the excess pushrod. Be certain to leave 1/16" [2mm] of wire protruding from the Faslink as shown.

❏ 1. Cut the covering from the top and bottom of the V-tail

that covers both bolt holes. Cut the covering around the hinge slots on the V-tail and the rudder vators the same as you did with the wing. Permanently attach the ruddervators to the V-tail the using the same hinging technique used with the ailerons.

❏ 2.Bolt the V -tail to the fuse with two 8-32 x 1-1/2" [38mm]

flat-head screws.

❏ 3.Bolt the wing to the fuse with two 8-32 x 1-1/2" [38mm]

flat-head screws for the LE and two 8-32 x 3/4" [19mm] flathead screws for the TE.

❏ 4. Stand two to three yards or meters behind the plane

and sight straight down the center of the fuse. Without moving side to side, approach the plane until you can see if the LE of the V-tail aligns with the TE of the wing. If they do not align, sand the high side of the wing saddle a small

amount

at a time until the wing and V-tail align with each other.

❏ 5.Mark the top LE of both ruddervators 1/2" [13mm] from

the inboard edge.

❏ 6.P osition the control horn centered ov er the mark.Mark

the hole locations on the ruddervators. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the ruddervators for mounting the control

Assemble & Mount the V-tail

horns. Mount the control horn using 2-56 x 3/8" [9.5mm] machine screws and the nylon backing plate on the bottoms of the ruddervators. Note: Tur ning a 2-56 tap through the back plate holes makes it easier to get the screws to thread into the back plate.

❏ 7. If you removed the V-tail from the fuse, reinstall it.

Thread a clevis 15 full turns onto two of the 17-1/2" [445mm] pushrods.

❏ 8. Trim the covering from the pushrod tube exits that are

in front of the V-tail on top of the fuse.

❏ 9. Slide the 17-1/2" [445mm] pushrods into the guide

tubes in the fuse. Connect the clevises to the outer hole on the control horns. With the elevators centered, mark the pushrods where they cross the V-tail joint.

❏ 10. Remove the pushrods. Make another mark 1-1/2"

[38mm] in front of the first. At the forward mark make a slight bend. Reinstall the pushrods and attach the clevises. Note:

This bend is to make the pushrod move as freely as possible in the pushrod tube. It may take several small adjustments to get friction-free movement. It is worth the effort, so take your time until there is no friction.

The engine mounting holes in the firewall fit both the included universal aluminum engine mount and the engine mount that comes with the Nelson .40 Quickee 500 engine.

The included engine mount will fit most .25 – .46 size

engines. The bolt pattern of the mount is that of the Nelson .40. This is to make it easy to upgrade to the Nelson, or experiment from engine to engine.

❏ 1. Remove the bolts from the engine backplate.Test fit

the mount to the engine. If necessary, file the mount to accommodate the needle valve (required if using the O.S.

.46 FX), or relocate the remote needle to the engine mounting lug (required for the O.S..40 LA), as shown in the photographs.

Mount the Engine

FINAL ASSEMBLY

❏ 2.Temporarily mount the engine to the backplate engine

mount. Use a pushrod aligned with the carburetor arm to determine the location for drilling the hole through the engine mount. Mark the mount where the pushrod enters.

❏ 3. Remove the engine, and then drill a 3/16" [4.8mm]

hole through the mount at the mark. Position the mount on the firewall with the hole you drilled nearest the bottom of the fuselage. Bolt the engine mount to the firewall with four 6-32 x 1/2" [13mm] SHCS.

❏ 4. Use the hole in the mount as a guide to drill a 3/16"

[4.8mm] hole through the firewall.Note: It is okay if you drill through a portion of the factory-installed blind nut on the back of the firewall.Remove the mount.

❏ 5. Cut a 6" [150mm] piece off the 11-3/4" [300mm] outer

pushrod tube.Roughen one end of the 6" [152mm] pushrod tube with coarse grit sandpaper.Glue the roughened end of the pushrod tube to the firewall with 1/8" [3mm] protruding from the front of the firewall.

❏ 6. Glue a 1" [25mm] square piece of light glass cloth to

the tube and the firewall.

❏ 7. Remove the engine mount from the firewall and the

engine from the engine mount.

❏ 8. Bend the tubes as shown, taking special care not to

kink them.

❏ 9. Arrange the stopper and tubes as shown and insert

them into the tank.Tighten the screw to expand the stopper, thus sealing the tank. Be cer tain the fuel line weight (clunk) at the end of the fuel line inside the tank does not contact the rear of the tank. Otherwise, the line may become stuck above the fuel level and discontinue fuel flow.

❏ 10. Place a piece of 1/2" [13mm] foam in the bottom of

the tank compartment, but not over the outer throttle pushrod.

❏ 11. Fit the tank into the fuselage. Mark the outside of the

fuselage in the approximate location of the fuel lines from the tank.Remove the tank.Drill 1/4" [6mm] holes for the fuel lines.Harden the wood around the holes you just drilled with thin CA.

❏ 12. Guide a 12" [300mm] piece of fuel line through the

holes from the outside.Attach the lines to the tank and fit the tank in place.

❏ 13. Mount your engine to the firewall with the 6-32 x 1/2"

[13mm] SHCS. Note: The tank hatch will be glued in place later ; wait to do

this until after you balance the model, just in case any weight is needed.

❏ 1. Mount the wheels to the landing gear with the 6-32 x

1/4" [6mm] bolts and axle as shown in the sketch.

❏ 2.Mount the landing gear to the fuse with two 6-32 x 1/4"

[6mm] bolts.

Mount the Landing Gear

❏ 3. Remove the covering from the two tail-skid mounting

holes on the bottom of the fuse. Enlarge the tail-skid mounting holes with a 1/8" [3mm] drill. Glue the nylon tailskid in place with medium CA.

Note: An alternate servo setup can be used if your radio does not offer V-tail mixing and you want to have an active rudder.See

“Optional Rudder Modifications,”

on page 16.

❏ 1. Trim the servo tray to fit your servos.

❏ 2. Glue the V-tail ser vo supports to the servo tray. The

side you glued the supports onto is now the bottom. Note: If you used servos smaller than standard, fill the cut lines with medium CA.

❏

.Fit the tail servos into the servo tray. Drill 1/16"

[1.6mm] holes for the servo screws and apply thin CA to the holes. Mount the servos to the tray with the screws provided with the radio gear.

❏ 4. Glue the hook and loop material to the bottom of the

servo tray.

Install the Radio

❏ 5. Attach your receiver and receiver battery to the top of

the servo tray. Use 1/4" [6mm] foam to isolate vibration, and the included hook-and-loop material to hold them in place. Remove the receiver and receiver batter y.

❏ 6.T aking y our time , slide the servo tr ay into the fuse.The

back of the servo tray fits into a notch in the f ormer .Because of this, the back of the servo tray needs to be lifted as much as possible while sliding the tray in place to get it positioned properly.

❏ 7. Glue the servo tray to the fuse with thin CA, then with

thick CA.

❏ 8. Lift the plastic antenna tube up through the servo tray.

Reinstall the receiver and receiver battery.

❏ 9.Remov e the covering from the antenna tube exit at the

rear of the fuse.

❏ 10. Using an ar m cut off the aileron servo, put a strain

relief on the antenna and feed the antenna through the antenna

tube. The excess antenna hangs out of the bottom

of the

airplane. DO NOT CUT THE ANTENNA.

❏ 11.Attach your receiv er and battery to the servo tray.Use

1/4" foam to isolate the receiver and battery from vibration.

❏ 12.Make three single-sided servo arms from three of the

six-sided arms provided with the servos. Enlarge the outer two holes with a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit. Note: Even though some of the photos show servo wheels, servo arms are recommended.

❏ 13.Slide the ruddervator pushrods into the pushrod

tubes and connect the clevises to the control horns. Keeping the ruddervator centered, mark the pushrod where it crosses the center of the servo arm.

❏

14. Detach the clevises from the ruddervators and slide the pushrods forward, lifting the front of the pushrods out of the servo opening.

❏ 15. Bend the pushrods 90 degrees at the marks. ❏ 16. Using two Faslinks, connect the pushrods to the

outer hole of the servo arms we made in step 12.

❏ 17. Tur n on the radio and center the trims. Attach the

servo arms to the servos. Check that the ruddervators are centered with the V-tail. Adjust the pushrods as required.

❏ 18. Mount the switch to the hatch in a location so it does

not interfere with anything when the hatch is in place or place the switch in your preferred position.

❏ 19. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the front of the

hatch centered on the basswood rail at the front of the servo opening. Use thin CA to harden the hole.

❏ 20.Secure the front of the hatch with a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]

screw and #2 washer.

❏ 21.Determine the size of the throttle servo you are going

to use. Using the photos as a reference, mount the throttle servo in the tray so that it aligns with the throttle pushrod.Fit the tray in the airplane, being sure to leave at least a 1/16" [1.6mm] gap between the servo and the landing gear rail. Glue the servo tray securely to the fuse sides.

❏ 22. Thread a clevis 15 full turns onto the last 17-1/2"

[445mm] pushrod. Note: The Nelson .40 requires a ball link hookup.(The ball link is not included with this model.)

❏ 23. Slide the pushrod into the tube and attach the clevis

to the throttle arm.

❏ 24. Bend the pushrod straight up 1-1/2" [38mm] behind

the throttle arm. Do another 90° bend so that the pushrod comes forward over the servo arm.

❏ 25 Connect the brass screw-lock connector to the servo

arm with the nylon retainer. Thread the 4-40 set screw a couple of turns into the connector. Slide the connector onto the throttle pushrod.

❏ 26.T urn on the radio and receiv er. Plug the throttle servo

into the throttle servo extension.Center the throttle stick and install the servo arm 90 degrees to the servo.

❏ 27. Center the carburetor barrel by moving the pushrod.

With the throttle servo and barrel centered, tighten the 4-40 set screw .Adjust the servo throw so at high throttle the

carburetor barrel is completely open. Adjust the transmitter so at low throttle the carburetor barrel is closed or slightly open.

Materials used for the following modifications are not

included

with this ARF. These modifications are

recommended

only if your radio does not have V-tail mixing.

❏ 1.Cut the tail of the fuse off 1/4" [6mm] behind the tail

skid.

❏ 2. Remove covering from the rudder.

❏ 3. Glue 1/4" x 1/2" x 1-1/2" [6 x 13 x 38mm] balsa to the

TE of the fuse and LE of the rudder

❏ 4. Shape the balsa on the fuse to match the shape of

the fuse.

❏ 5. Shape the balsa on the front of the rudder to match

the shape of the rudder.

❏ 6. Cover the rudder and the rear of the fuse.

❏ 7. Cut the hinge slots and mount the rudder with one

long hinge.

❏ 8. Sharpen the end of a 3/16" [5mm] brass tube.

Optional Rudder Modifications

❏ 9. Use the brass tube to drill a hole through the fuse in

the approximate location and angles shown in the photo.

❏ 10. Slide a 3/16" [5mm] plastic pushrod outer tube (not

included) into the fuse from the rear, going through the large opening in the former and aligning the front of it with the rear of the servo mounts.Note:The servo tray is remo v ed f or

clarity.

❏ 11. Mark the pushrod tube where is exits the fuse. Use

course sandpaper to roughen the pushrod tube from the mark to 1-1/2" [38mm] forward of the mark.

❏ 12. Glue the tube to the fuse with thin CA. Allow the CA

to cure and then cut off the excess tube.

❏ 13.Attach a small control horn (not included) to the

rudder the same as was done with the ruddervators.Align the holes in the horn with the hinge line.

❏ 14. Attach the pushrods to the rudder vators. Bend the

right ruddervator pushrod as shown. Connect the two ruddervator pushrods together with two 5/32" [4mm] wheel collars.

❏ 15. Attach the r udder pushrod to the right hand servo

with the Faslink as done with the other servo.

1.Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from the sheet.

2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water–about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer type, submersing them in soap & water allows accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.

3. Position the decal on the model where desired. Holding the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.

4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the decals the same way.

Apply the Decals

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the

trims. If necessar y, remove the ser vo arms from the ser vos and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the

control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.

❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the

carburetor respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to those controls. Be cer tain the control surfaces have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately measure and set the control throw of each control surface

as indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the

low rate setting. Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the

elevators, rudder and ailerons.

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition with all of the systems in place including the engine, landing gear, cover ing and paint, and the radio system.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may determine whether or not your first flight will be successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

IMPORTANT: The Viper 500 ARF has been extensively

flown and tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will provide you with the greatest chance for successful first flights.If, after you have become accustomed to the way the Viper 500 ARF flies, you would like to change the thro ws to suit y our taste, that is fine. However, too much control throw could make the model difficult to control, so remember , “more is not always better.”

These are the recommended control surface throws:

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR: 1/4" [6mm] up 1/8" [3mm] up

1/4" [6mm] down 1/8" [3mm] down

RUDDER: 1/4" [6mm] right

1/4" [6mm] left

AILERONS: 3/8" [9.5mm] up 1/8" [3mm] up

3/8" [9.5mm] down 1/8" [3mm] down

Set the Control Throws

Check the Control Directions

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

❏ 1.Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [2mm] wide tape to accurately

mark the C.G.on the bottom of the wing on both sides of the fuselage. The C.G. is located 3" [75mm] back from the leading edge of the wing.

❏ 2.With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the

model installed including the fuel tank hatch (ready-to-fly) and an empty fuel tank, place the model as shown above on a Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it at the balance point you marked.

❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the

battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast required. If additional weight is required, nose weight may be easily added by using a “spinner weight”(GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz.weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz.weight).If

spinner

weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great Planes

(GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add stick-on nose weight is in the fuel tank compartment. If there is not sufficient space, then the firewall is an excellent mounting location.Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the firewall until the model balances.Once you have determined the amount of weight required, it can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuse and gluing it permanently inside. Glue the fuel tank hatch in place if nose weight is needed.

Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any

weight, recheck the C.G.after the weight has been installed.

❏ 5. REMEMBER: Now that the model is balanced, glue

the tank hatch in place.

❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the

model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the fuse under the TE of the fin.Do this several times.

❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it

means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been

laterally

balanced will track better in loops and other

maneuvers.

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have your name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag on page 23 and place it on or inside your model.

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your radio control system to charge the batteries. You should always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

Charge the Batteries

Identify Y our Model

PREFLIGHT

Balance the Model Laterally

This is where your model should balance for the first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the C.G. up to 2-5/8" [67mm] forward or 3-3/8" [86mm] back to change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model may then require more speed for takeoff and make it more difficult to slow for landing.Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more maneuverable, but could also cause it to become too difficult to control. In any case, start at the recommended balance point and do not at any time balance the model outside the specified range.

Note: Checking the condition of your receiver battery pack

is highly recommended. All battery packs, whether it’s a trusty pack you’ve just taken out of another model, or a new battery pack you just purchased, should be cycled, noting the discharge capacity. Oftentimes, a weak battery pack can be identified (and a valuable model sav ed!) b y comparing its actual capacity to its rated capacity. Refer to the instructions and recommendations that come with your cycler. If you don’t own a battery cycler, perhaps you can have a friend cycle your pack and note the capacity for you.

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most significant cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in,

confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to full power and maintains full

power–indefinitely. After you run the engine on the model, inspect the model closely to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.

Ground check the operational range of your r adio bef ore the first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, most radio systems indicate you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing. Repeat this test

with the engine running at various speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand signals to show you what is happening. If the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide .Therefore,

do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines. Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;the

propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes. Keep your f ace and body as well as all spectators a wa y from

the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shir t or jacket pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric star ter to start the engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller .Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after operation.Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline powered engine, an on/off switch should be connected to the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a running engine.

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Range Check

Ground Check

Balance the Propellers

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

GENERAL

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy by having been previously successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator.I will give right of way to, and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3.Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1.I will have completed a successful radio equipment

ground

check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted b y an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently allowed by the F ederal

Communications

Commission.

❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust

residue such as the tank compartment and underside of hatch, wing saddle area, etc.

❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted in the fuse.Simply stuffing them into place with foam rubber is not sufficient.

❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has

a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder joint inside the receiver and hasn’t been cut, shortened or otherwise damaged.

❏ 5. Balance your model

laterally

as explained in the

instructions.

❏ 6. Use thread-locking compound to secure critical

fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel axles, screws that hold the carburetor arm (if applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.

❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

turn freely.

❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place. ❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where

appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl mounting screws, etc.).

❏ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct

direction and the throws are set up according to the manual.

❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the

clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the servos with the screws included with your radio.

❏ 12. Secure connections between servo wires and

Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection between your battery pack and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.

❏ 13. Make sure any servo e xtension cords y ou ma y ha v e

used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms, pushrods, etc.).

❏ 14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with

high temp RTV silicone, thread-locking compound or J.B.Weld.

❏ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are

not kinked.

❏ 16. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers). ❏ 17. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner. ❏ 18. Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.

❏ 19. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and

make sure it is fully charged.

❏ 20. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before

your first flight.

❏ 21. Range check your radio when you get to the flying

field.

During the last few moments of preparation your mind may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first flight. Because of this, you may be more lik ely to overlook certain checks and procedures that should be performed before the model is flown.To help avoid this, a check list is provided to make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are completed (that’s why it’s called a

check list!

CHECK LIST

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)

The Viper 500 is a great-flying sport and racing model that flies smoothly and predictably, but incredibly fast.The Viper 500 does not, however, possess any of the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.

For longevity of your engine, especially if it is new, the fuel mixture should be richened so the engine runs at about 400 RPM below peak speed.By running the engine slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating.

Remember to takeoff into the wind.When you’re ready, point the model straight down the runway,

TO HIGH RATES

, then gradually advance the throttle. One of the most important things to remember with a tail dragger is to always be ready to apply right rudder to counteract engine torque. Gain as much speed as your runway and flying site will practically allow before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into the air.At this moment it is likely that you will need to apply more right rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning into the traffic pattern. Go to low rates as soon as the model has picked up speed.

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you.Tell him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for takeoff on sport models, it is NOT required for the Viper 500, and the model will fly far more smoothly and allow you more time to react and learn the aircraft at reduced speeds.

Take it easy with the Viper 500 for the first few flights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain confidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level flight. After flying around for a while, and while still at a saf e altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and execute practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see how the model handles at slower speeds.Add power to see how the Viper 500 climbs as well. Continue to fly around, executing various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may be required to fine tune the model so it flies

Flight

Takeoff

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL

R/C AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface

flutter

. Because flutter can quickly destroy components of your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this may indicate which surface fluttered), and make sure all pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If the control surface fluttered once, it probably will flutter again under similar circumstances unless you can eliminate the free-play or flexing in the linkages. Here are some things which can cause flutter: Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of pushrod in guide tube caused by tight bends; Poor fit of Z-bend in servo arm; Insufficient glue used when gluing in the elevator joiner wire; Excessive

play

backlash

servo gears; and Insecure ser vo mounting.

Fuel Mixture Adjustments

CAUTION SPECIFICALLY FOR QUICKIE 500 AND OTHER RACE-STYLE AIRCRAFT: These models are

designed to fly VERY quickly.Their top speed is twice that of the typical sport model, or more. As such, there are several rules which are CRITICAL to safely flying these aircraft. Many of the rules for flying a model of this sort – such as using high rates for take-off and not for nor mal flying – are likely diff erent from most models y ou are used to, so please take these cautions seriously.

1. Take-off is very short. Use HIGH RATES for takeoff or you will not have sufficient elevator to properly handle the aircraft.As soon as it starts to come up to speed you MUST go to low rates.

2. For your first flights, be sure the engine is tuned slightly rich and plan to fly around at half throttle or less, getting used to the model’s feel, tr ims, etc.

3. Trim is absolutely critical. If the aircraft cannot cover the length of your field hands off without banking, climbing or diving, it is unlikely the model will complete the flight safely.

4. These models are VERY, VERY aerodynamic. As such, their glide paths are far longer than that of similar sized sport models – typically 2 or even 3

times

the length, requiring HIGH RATE elevator to flair.

5. Because of the speed at which the Viper travels when wide open, minimal control throws are needed to effect change. As such, the model must be flown on low rates for those conditions. However, any time the model’s speed is decreased, high rates are REQUIRED to provide enough control to fly safely.

6. Landings, and especially flaring, MUST be done on high rates.The model will not flair on low rates, and will not flair from a slow speed nose-down attitude even on high rates. Be sure to practice low speed flight several times at a good altitude until you are used to the model’s handling.

FLYING

the way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this first flight to become familiar with your model before landing. REMEMBER to use high rates when practicing slow speed flight for sufficient control.

To initiate a landing approach, lower or “cut” the throttle while on the downwind leg. GO TO HIGH RATE ELEVATOR. Allow the nose of the model to pitch only very slightly downward to gradually b leed off altitude.Continue to lose altitude, but maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down only slightly as you turn onto the crosswind leg.Make your final turn toward the runway (into the wind) k eeping the nose

only slightly

down to maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the model reaches the runway threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to make another attempt. When you’re ready to make your landing flare and the model is inches off the deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches down. Once the model is on the runway and has lost flying speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the ground, regaining tail wheel control.

One final note about flying your model.Have a goal or flight plan in mind for every flight. This can be flying the model more quickly, working on tighter pylon turns, or practicing mock landing approaches at altitude.

Always remember to be aware of the relationship between a race model’s airspeed and the responsiveness of its flight controls.

A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

O. S.®.46 FX Engine

Engineered for superior, long-lasting power in sport aircraft, the .46 FX has dual ball bearings for durability and smooth operation, plus a low crankcase design that allows for a taller head to improve cooling.For added safety, the needle valve is remotely mounted and the crankshaft has a longer threaded portion to allow secure engagement of the prop, nut and spinner.The engine also uses O. S. Engines’ ABN construction – an aluminum piston with Advanced BiMetallic Liner of nickel and brass. ABN construction increases durability and provides more consistent plating, resulting in better compression due to the precise fit between the piston

and sleeve. Includes muffler and 2-year

warranty.

OSMG0546

Futaba®9CAP 9-Channel Radio Systems

Want to experiment with

triple

rates? Find, open, set and close functions with amazing ease? Be able to look at an LCD and see how far each servo will travel in operation – and reset the limits of any servo you choose? You can do it all and more, with the 9CAP.Easy Dial N’Key programming, eight-character naming, and a “full functionality” trainer system are just a few of its extraordinary features. Learn more on the Futaba website at

www.futaba-rc.com

.Includes R149DP receiver, four S3001 servos, 600mAh Tx and Rx NiCds. FUTJ87**

OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE FROM

GREAT PLANES

Landing

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: _______________________

Where Purchased: _________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________

Date Construction Finished: _________________

Finished Weight: __________________________

Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG

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