Great Planes GPMA1245 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

®

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase.This warranty does not cover an y component parts damaged by use or modification.In no case shall Great Planes' liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without

notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used f or final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted

for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, the
modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.

Manual GPMZ0213 for Kit GPMA1245 V1.0

© Copyright 1999

P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61803 [phone]

www.greatplanes.com

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Almost Ready-to-Fly

Important Safety Precaution. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Precautions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Decisions You Must Make. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Engine Selection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Required Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Building Supplies and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Optional Supplies and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Optional Retract Items . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

General Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Building Notes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Parts List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Metric Conversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Wing Assembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Wing Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Install The Tail Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Engine Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Radio Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Throttle Pushrod Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Final Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Finish The Cockpit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Control Throw Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Wheel Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Fixed Gear & Tail Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Retractable Landing Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Balance Your Model Laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Balance Your Model (CG) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Fuel Tank Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Fuel Tank Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Secure the Pushrods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Preflight. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Charge the Batteries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Balance the Propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Find a Safe Place to Fly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Ground Check the Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Range Check Your Radio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Engine Safety Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

AMA Safety Code (excerpt). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

General. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Radio Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Flying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Landing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Your AT-6 ARF is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its realistic performance, the AT-6 ARF, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury
to yourself or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, we
recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help from
an instructor with assembly and during your first flights.You’ll learn
faster and avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready to

solo.Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in
your area whose membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of Model Aeronautics
(AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered clubs across the
country.Through any one of them, instructor training programs
and insured newcomer training are av ailable.Contact the AMA at
the address or toll-free phone number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. [phone]
Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

The Great Planes AT-6 ARF is a high performance sport
airplane that closely resembles the full-size AT-6 both in
appearance and performance.The fuselage in front of the wing
has been lengthened slightly to allow the model to be balanced
without the need for excess nose weight.The AT-6 ARF is very
stable and predictable, allowing even low time pilots to enjoy it.

This is not a beginner’s airplane! While the AT-6 ARF is easy
to build and flies great, we must discourage you from selecting
this kit as your first R/C airplane. It lacks the self-recovery
characteristics of good basic trainers such as the Great Planes

PT

™

Series. On the other hand, if you have already learned the
basics of R/C flying, and you are able to safely handle a .40-size
low wing airplane, the A T-6 ARF is an excellent choice to try your
skills at flying a sport scale airplane.

1.You must assemble the model according to the instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unflyable model.In a few cases the instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.

2.Take time to build straight, true and strong.

3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition, and
a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank, wheels,
etc.) throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install the R/C radio system and other
components so that the model operates properly on the ground
and in the air.

5.You must test the operation of the model before every flight
to insure that all equipment is operating and you must make
certain that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure
to check clevises or other connectors often and replace them if
they show signs of wear or fatigue.

PRECAUTIONS

INTRODUCTION

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2

Note:We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality

kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality of your
finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot
in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build! If
any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any
questions about building or flying this airplane, please call us
at [phone]. You can also check our web site at

www.greatplanes.com

for the latest AT-6 ARF updates,

or

e-mail your questions to

[e-mail].

If
you are calling for replacement parts, please reference the
part numbers and the kit identification number (the small
sticker on the end of the carton) and have them ready when
calling.

There are several engines that will w ork well in y our AT-6 ARF.We
recommend a 2-stroke such as an O.S.®.40 LA, O.S. .40 FX, or
O.S..46 FX, or the SuperTigre®G40.For unsurpassed power and
realistic sound, an O.S. FS-52 4-stroke can’t be beat.

Items in parentheses (GPMQ4243) are suggested part numbers
recognized by distributors and hobby shops and are listed for
your ordering convenience. GPM is the Great Planes®brand,
TOP is the Top Flite®brand, and HCA is the Hobbico®brand.

❏ Four-channel Radio With Five Servos
❏ Engine –

See

Engine Selection Above

❏ Propeller (Top Flite

®

Power Point®–Refer To Your Engine’s

Instructions For Proper Size)

❏ Medium Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏ 6" Ser vo Extension (1)
❏ “Y” connector (1) when using a basic 4-channel radio
❏ Slimline Spor t Scale muffler

These are the building tools that are required.

We recommend

Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue.

❏ 2 oz. Pro CA (Thin, GPMR6003)
❏ 2 oz. Pro CA+ (Medium, GPMR6009)
❏ 6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Pro Thread Locking Compound (GPMR6060)
❏ T-pins (HCAR5150)
❏ Adjustable Wrench
❏ Plastic Wrap or W axed Paper
❏ Isopropyl Alcohol (70%)

❏ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Round Toothpic ks
❏ Hobby Knife (TOWR1010), #11 Blades (TOWR1015)
❏ Small Hobby Clamps
❏ String
❏ Builders Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❏ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
❏ Easy-Touch

™

Bar Sander (GPMR6170, or similar)

❏ 1/4" Latex Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1000)
❏ Paper Towels
❏ Felt-Tip Marker
❏ Wire Cutter
❏ File
❏ Drill Bits: 1/16" (1.5mm), 5/64" (2mm), 3/32" (2.4mm),

1/8" (3mm), 3/16" (4.7mm), 1/4" (6mm)

❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Single-edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312)
❏ Cur ved Tip Canopy Scissors For Trimming Plastic Parts

(HCAR0667)

❏ Switch and Charge Jack (GPMM1000)
❏ Fuel Filler Valve (GPMQ4160)

❏ Hobbico Mechanical Retracts Main (HCAP4010)
❏ Retract ser vo (compatible with your radio system)
❏ Threaded pushrods (2) (GPMQ3750)
❏ Nylon Clevis (2) (GPMQ3800)
❏ Wheel Collars (2) (GPMQ4306)
❏ 1-1/4" x 5/32" Axle (GPMQ4280)

Remove the fuselage, wing panels, rudder assembly and
stabilizer assembly from their bags.Inspect all items closely to
check for any damage. If any of the control surfaces are
attached, simply pull them apart and store the hinges in a safe
place until it is time to reattach them. The manual begins with
all the surfaces shown separated.

Your AT-6 is covered with high quality Top Flite MonoKote

®

covering. If any of the covering has loosened, use a heat gun
or sealing iron to tighten it.

Several times during construction we refer to the “top” or
“bottom” of the model or a par t of the model. It is understood
that the “top” or “bottom” of the model is as it would be when
the airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the “top”
even if the model is being worked on upside-down.

Building Notes

General Inspection

Optional Retract Items

Optional Supplies & Tools

Building Supplies & Tools

Required Accessories

Engine Selection

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

3

4

1

5

4

24

22

19

17

15

14

16

18

21

20

25

23

18

2

3

6

11

7

8

9

13

12

10

Key # Description Qty

1.......Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

2.......Left Wing Panel . . . . . . . . 1

3.......Left Wing Tip . . . . . . . . . . 1

4.......Left Aileron. . . . . . . . . . . . 1

5.......Left Aileron Servo Hatch. . 1

6.......Canopy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

7.......Tail Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

8.......Pushrods . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

9.......Pushrod Wire w/guide. . . . 1

10......Elevator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

11......Stabilizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

12......Rudder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

13......Fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

14......Right Aileron Servo Hatch. 1

15......Right Aileron. . . . . . . . . . . 1

16......Right Wing Tip . . . . . . . . . 1

17......Right Wing Panel . . . . . . . 1

18......Main Wheels. . . . . . . . . . . 2

19......Right Engine Mount Half. . 1

20......Left Engine Mount Half . . . 1

21......Right Wing Joiner. . . . . . . 1

22......Left Wing Joiner . . . . . . . . 1

23......Wing Center Section . . . . . 1

24......Fuel Tank Assembly . . . . . 1

25......Cowling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Replacement Parts

Canopy. . . . . . . . . . GPMA2080

Cowling . . . . . . . . . GPMA2081

Wing Set . . . . . . . . GPMA2082

Tail Set . . . . . . . . . . GPMA2083

Fuselage Set . . . . . GPMA2084

Landing Gear Set . . GPMA2085

1/64" = .4 mm
1/32" = .8 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm

1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm

1/4" = 6.4 mm

3/8" = 9.5 mm
1/2" = 12.7 mm
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm

1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm
6" = 152.4 mm

12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm

METRIC CONVERSIONS

Inch Scale

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Metric Scale

❏ 1. Remove the covering from the Aileron Servo

Openings on the bottom of the wing only. Cut 1/8” (3mm)

inside of the opening to allow some material to iron down
inside the opening. Use a sealing iron to secure the
covering around the opening.

❏ 2. Locate the preinstalled strings in the Center Section

and Outer Panels.When attaching the outer panels to the
center section, the strings for installing the aileron servos
must be moved so they do not interfere with the fit of the
panels. Don’t remove the string because you will use it to
pull your aileron servo cords through the wing later.

❏❏3. Locate the hardwood wing joiners. Use the sketch

to differentiate the left and right joiners. (The sketch is of
the right wing joiner.) Draw a centerline on both sides of the
right joiner. Test fit the wing joiner into the right wing panel
and the right side of the center section. A snug fit of the

joiner is desirable. If the joiner does not fit properly, lightly
sand any uneven surfaces from the joiner edges and sides.
Note: The wing joiners are tapered to fit into the wing
panels. Make sure the angles are lined up to provide the
correct alignment of the wing panels and center section.
Use the sketch to determine the orientation of the joiner.

Make a dry run of the following step without using any

glue so you will know how to join your wing together.

❏❏4. Untape the preinstalled strings in the Center

Section and Outer Panels. Tie the strings together, being

careful not to pull the strings out of the panels. Note: Don’t
remove the strings because you will use them to pull your
aileron servo cords through the wing later. Use a liberal
amount of 30-minute epoxy to glue the wing joiner into the
right wing panel and center section. Apply epoxy to all sides
of the joiner, joiner pockets, and center ribs of both the right
wing panel and center section. Join the wing panel and
center section. Use masking tape to tightly tape the right
wing panel and center section together. Be cer tain the
leading and trailing edges align.Wipe off any excess epoxy
from the outside of the wing with a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol. With the center section upr ight and flat on your
building surface, measure the distance from your work
surface to the tip of the outer panel to make sure you have
the correct amount of polyhedral as shown in the sketch.

❏ 5. After the epoxy has cured, repeat the above steps 3

and 4 to join the left wing panel to the center section.

❏1. Place the wing on the Fuselage. Measure from the aft

center of the fuselage to one wing tip and record the

WING INSTALLATION

WING ASSEMBLY

5

CENTER SECTION

TIP SECTION

FRONT

CENTER

SECTION

TIP

PANEL

TOP

distance.Measure from the same point to the opposite wing
tip, and compare it to the first measurement. If the
measurements are not the same, adjust the wing and
remeasure until they are equal. Place a mar k on the wing
and fuselage so it can be repositioned accurately for the
following steps.

❏ 2. Remove the covering from the wing center section

where the wing bolts will pass through the wing.

❏ 3. Bolt the wing to the fuselage using the 1/4-20 x 2”

Nylon Bolts. Check the alignment of the wing and enlarge
the holes in the wing if necessary to allow the wing to be
shifted to match the alignment marks.

❏ 1. Remove the covering on the fuselage for the

Horizontal Stabilizer. Slide the stabilizer into position, and
check the alignment as shown in the photo.

❏ 2. Mount the wing to the fuselage using the nylon bolts.

Stand back 8 to 10 feet (2.5 to 3 meters) and view the
model from the front and rear.The stabilizer tips should be
equally spaced above the level of the wing. If not, lightly
sand the high side of the stab saddle to correct the
problem.Work slowly and check the alignment often.

❏3.When the alignment looks good, mark the outline of the

fuselage onto the stabilizer. Remove the stabilizer, and trim
the covering 1/32” (.8mm) inside of the lines, being careful
not to cut into the underlying wood. Slide the stabilizer
back into the fuselage, recheck the alignment, and wick thin
CA along the joint between the stabilizer and fuselage.

❏ 4. Test fit the Fin in the slot at the aft edge of the

fuselage. The trailing edge of the fin must be flush with the
aft edge of the fuselage. Draw a line along the bottom of
the fin at the fuselage and remove the covering 1/32”
(.8mm) below the line, being careful not to cut into the
underlying wood. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fin in
position. Work the epoxy into the slot in the fuselage, filling
any loose-fitting joints between the fuselage and stabilizer.
Check the alignment of the fin to the stabilizer with a
triangle, then secure it in position with masking tape until
the epoxy has cured. Double check the alignment of the fin
with the stabilizer while the epoxy cures.

❏ 5. Drill a 1/8” (3mm) hole 1” (25mm) up from the bottom

of the Rudder. Cut a groove down from the hole to the
bottom for the plastic bushing on the Tail Gear Assembly
to ride in. Apply petroleum jelly to the wire and work it into
the plastic bushing.Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the tail gear
assembly into the rudder.

INST ALL THE T AIL COMPONENTS

6

❏6. Cut a slot in the aft tail post for the tail gear bushing. Test

fit the rudder to the fin and the tail gear wire with the hinges. If
the hinges are difficult to install or don’t go in far enough,
carefully enlarge the hinge slots with a hobby knife and a #11
blade. Cut the hinges to the size shown above from the 2”
(51mm) x 9” (229mm) hinge material. Use the following
procedure for gluing the hinges and tail gear assembly.

❏ A. Drill a 3/32” hole, 1/2” deep, in the center of the hinge

slot. If you use a Dremel®MultiPro™for this task, it will result
in a cleaner hole than if you use a slower speed drill.
Drilling the hole will twist some of the wood fibers into the
slot, making it difficult to insert the hinge, so you should
reinsert the knife blade, working it back and forth a few
times to clean out the slot.

❏ B. Hint: If the hinges don’t remain centered, remove the

rudder and insert a pin in the center of the hinges.

❏ C. Pack the tail gear wire slot in the fuselage with epoxy.

To insure that you have working time, we recommend using
30-minute epoxy. Rejoin the rudder to the fin using the
hinges. Use a tissue dampened with alcohol to wipe away
excess epoxy before it cures. Make sure there is
approximately a 1/64”gap between the rudder and the fin.

❏ D. Add six drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges

on both sides. Use a paper towel to absorb excess CA from
the hinge gap before it cures. Do not use CA accelerator;
allow the CA to cure slowly.

❏ 7. Use the same hinging method to join the Elevators to

the stab.

❏ 1. Cut the “spreader bar” from each Engine Mount half.

Carefully trim any extra material left by the spreader bar
from each mount half. The surfaces where the spreader
bars were attached must be smooth to allow the mount
halves to fit together. Trim the flashing off any rough edges
if necessary.

ENGINE INSTALLATION

1"

7

[25mm]

1"

[25mm]

3/4"

[19mm]

ASSEMBLE, THEN APPLY 6 DROPS

OF THIN CA TO CENTER

OF HINGE, ON BOTH SIDES

DRILL A 3/32" HOLE

1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER

OF HINGE SLOT

TEMPORARY PIN

TO KEEP HINGE

CENTERED

❏ 2. Connect the mar ks on the firewall to locate the center

of the firewall.

❏ 3. Cut the Engine Mount Template from page 19 of this

manual and tape it to the firewall as shown above. At the
locations on the template, drill four 3/16” (4.7mm) holes in
the firewall for the engine mount blind nuts.

❏ 4. Install four 6-32 Blind Nuts to the inside of the

firewall. Pull the blind nuts into the back side of the firewall
using a 6-32 machine screw (with a flat washer under the
head of the bolt). Fit the two halves of the Engine Mount
together. Use four #6 Flat Washers and four 6-32 x 3/4”
Machine Screws to secure the engine mount to the
firewall.Do not tighten the screws at this time, as the mount
must be adjusted for the engine.

❏ 5. Test fit your engine into the mount. Adjust the width of

the rails to fit the engine snugly. Tighten the mount screws
to allow marking the engine mounting holes without moving
the rails.

❏ 6. Position the engine on the engine mount rails so the

propeller thrust washer (or spinner backplate) is 4-1/2”
(114mm) ahead of the firewall. Use a Great Planes Dead
Center™Hole Locator (GPMR8130 not included) to scribe
the four engine mount holes onto the rails.You may use a
sharpened piece of wire to scribe the mount holes and
then, use a center punch at the marks to prevent the drill bit
from wandering. Drill 3/32” (2.4mm) pilot holes through the
rails. Be sure to hold the drill perpendicular to the rails. If
you have access to a drill press, this is a good tool for this
purpose. Put a drop of oil into each hole. Use four #4 x 5/8”
Sheet Metal Screws to secure the engine to the mount.

❏ 7. Drill a 3/16” (4.7mm) hole in the firewall for the throttle

pushrod. The hole location will depend on whether you are
installing a 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine.

❏ 8. Roughen the outside surface of the 11-3/4” (298mm)

Throttle Pushrod Tube with coarse grit sandpaper. Inser t
the pushrod tube through the hole in the firewall. Push it in
until about 1/4” (6mm) of the tube is left exposed forward of
the firewall. Use medium CA to glue the tube to the firewall,
but leave it free inside the fuselage until the servos are
installed.

❏ 1. Use the following sequence for mounting the servos

into the servo tray.
A. Install rubber grommets and brass eyelets in the servos

using the provided sketch.

RADIO INSTALLATION

8

B. Test fit the servos in the tray. Enlarge the openings if

needed to create a 1/32” (.8mm) gap around the servo.
C. Mar k ser vo mounting hole locations on the tray, then drill

1/16” (1.5mm) pilot holes through each mark.
D. Mount the servos with the screws provided with your

radio system.Notice the servo orientation when installing.

❏ 3. Install and hook up following the manufacturer’s

recommendations - three servos, the receiver, switch and
battery as shown in the photo. We added a Great Planes
Switch Mount & Change Jack (GPMM1000, not included)
for convenience and ease of use at the field, installed on
the side of the fuselage. Center the elevator, rudder and
throttle trims on the transmitter.

Prepare two “cross” style servo horns as follows but don’t
install them on the servos until instructed to do so.
Note:

The size and shape of servo horns varies from
manufacturer to manufacturer. The sketches and photos
show a typical radio installation with standard horns. All
standard servo horns should fit in the AT-6.

A. Cut off three arms from two servo horns included with
your radio control set to make them into “one arm” servo
horns. Use your Bar Sander to remove the remaining
jagged edges left from the cut-off arms.

B. Enlarge the holes in the horns with a 5/64” drill.
C. Turn on your transmitter and receiver, then position the

aileron, rudder, elevator and throttle trim tabs on your

transmitter in the center. This is called “centering” the
servos and will allow you to place the servo horns on the
servos in a neutral position. Attach the ar ms to the servos
as shown in the following photo.

❏ 4. Epoxy the 7/16” x 7/16” x 3/4” (11mm x 11mm x

19mm) hardwood Servo Mounting Blocks to the Aileron
Servo Hatches. Install the aileron ser vos as shown in the

photo. NOTE: Both aileron servos should be identical to
prevent any mismatch in speed or throw. After “fishing” the
servo wires through to the opening at the center of the
wing, plug them into a “Y” harness. Before permanently
screwing the servo hatches into position, hook up your
radio and double check the

centering

and

direction

of both

aileron servos.

❏ 5.With the servo hatches in position, drill 1/16” (1.5mm)

holes through the servo hatches and into the servo rails at
each of the four corners. (It may be necessary to trim the
hatch support rails as necessary to provide clearance for the
servo mounting blocks.) Remove the hatches, and enlarge
the holes in the hatches using a 3/32” (2.4mm) dr ill bit. Use
#2 x 3/8” Sheet Metal Screws to install the servo hatches.

❏ 6. Cut six hinges from the hinge material. Install the

Ailerons using the hinges. Push the ailerons against the
trailing edge of the wing so there is approximately a 1/64”
(.4mm) gap between the leading edge of the aileron and
the trailing edge of the wing. Leave a gap of 1/16” (1.5mm)
between the end of the aileron and the wing as shown in
the following photo to allow the ailerons to move freely
without binding against the wing. Add six drops of thin CA
to the center of the hinges on both sides.Use a paper towel
to absorb excess CA from the hinge gap before it cures. Do
not use CA accelerator; allow the CA to cure slowly.

9

ENLARGE TO

5/64"

CUT OFF

UNUSED ARMS

❏ 7. Two 2-56 x 6” Threaded End Rods are supplied to

make the Aileron pushrods. Thread a nylon Clevis onto a
pushrod about 14 turns and add a Silicone Retainer to the
clevis. Attach the clevis to the control horn. Hold the horn in
position on the aileron and mark the location of the mounting
holes. Drill 3/32” (2.4mm) mounting holes through the
ailerons at the marks.Wick two to three drops of Thin CA into
the holes to harden the underlying balsa, then redrill the
holes. Attach the horns using 2-56 x 3/4” Socket Head Cap
Screws and Nylon Nut Plates. Do not over-tighten the
screws, crushing the underlying balsa. Center the ailerons,
then mark the pushrods at the point where they meet the
holes on the servo arm. Make a 90-degree bend in the wires
at this mark. Cut off the excess wire 3/8” (9.5mm) above the
bend. Inser t the bent wire pushrod into the servo horn, then
attach the linkage to the servo using a nylon FasLink™as
shown in the photo. Repeat this step for the other aileron
linkage.

❏ 8. Cut the slots in both sides of the fuselage for the

elevator Pushrod T ube to exit the fuselage. Cut the pushrod
exit for the rudder only on the right side of the fuselage as
shown in the photo.The slots will extend 1/2”(13mm) forward
and 3/16”(4.7mm) upward from the locations in the photo.

❏ 9. Use a 3/16” (4.7mm) drill bit to chamfer the holes for

easier installation of the pushrod tubes.

❏ 10. Locate the three 36” (914mm) Outer Pushrod

Guide Tubes and scuff the outsides with coarse grit

sandpaper. Route the tubes through the fuselage and into
the radio compartment. The tubes must protrude at least
1/2” (13mm) from the fuse side exits.

❏ 11. Cut the pushrod tubes at the aft edge of the wing

bolt plate.

❏ 12. Inser t one of the 2-56 x 36” Threaded End Rods

into the rudder tube in the fuselage. The pushrod should

Servo Horn

10

2-56 (.074")

Pushrod Wire

FasLink

1/16"

slide easily into the tube. Screw a nylon clevis on the
pushrod about 14 turns and add a silicone retainer to the
clevis.Trim the bottom hole from a control horn as shown in
the photo and attach the clevis to the outermost hole.

❏ 13. Install the rudder nylon control horn in line with the

pushrod. Hold the horn in position and mark the location of
the mounting holes. Drill 3/32” (2.4mm) mounting holes
through the marks. Wick two to three drops of Thin CA into
the holes to harden the underlying balsa, then redrill the
holes. Attach the horns using 2-56 x 5/8” Machine Screws
and Nylon Nut Plates. Do not over-tighten the screws,
crushing the underlying balsa.

❏ 14. Center the rudder and r udder servo and mark the

pushrod where it crosses the servo arm. Enlarge the ser vo
horn hole with a 5/64” (2mm) drill bit.

❏ 15. Make a 90-degree bend in the pushrod on your

mark, then insert it through the enlarged hole in the ser vo
arm. Secure the wire in place with a nylon FasLink pushrod
keeper. Trim the excess wire just above the FasLink. Use
the photo showing the installation of the aileron linkage
for clarification.

❏ 16. Insert the remaining two 2-56 x 36” threaded end

rods into the elevator tubes in the fuselage. Screw a nylon
clevis on each of the pushrods about 14 turns and add
silicone retainers to the clevises.

❏17. Install the elevator nylon control horns in line with the

pushrods. Hold the horns in position and mark the location
of the mounting holes. Drill 3/32” (2.4mm) mounting holes
through the marks. Wick two to three drops of Thin CA into
the holes to harden the underlying balsa, then redrill the
holes. Attach the horns using four 2-56 x 5/8” machine
screws and nylon nut plates. Do not over-tighten the
screws, crushing the underlying balsa.

❏ 18. Center one of the elevators and elevator servo and

mark the pushrod where it crosses the servo arm. Enlarge
the servo horn hole with a 5/64” (2mm) drill bit.

❏ 19. Slide two of the 5/32” Wheel Collars onto the

pushrod wire that will attach to the elevator servo. Make a
90-degree bend in the pushrod on your mark, then insert it
through the enlarged hole in the servo arm. Secure the wire
in place with a nylon FasLink Pushrod Keeper. Trim the
excess wire just above the FasLink.

❏ 20. While keeping both elevators centered, connect the

two elevator pushrods to each other with two 5/32” wheel
collars and two 6-32 x 1/4” Socket Head Cap Screws as
shown in the photo. Use threadlock on the screws to
prevent loosening.

11

HINGE LINE

INCORRECTCORRECT

❏ 1. Install a Brass Screw-lock Pushrod Connector with

the 4-40 x 1/8” Cap Screw on the throttle ser vo horn. Snap
the Nylon Retainer onto the screw-lock pushrod connector
post beneath the servo horn.

❏ 2. Assemble the 17-1/2” (444mm) Throttle Pushrod Wire

by installing a nylon clevis about 14 turns and a silicone
retainer onto the threaded end. Trim the outer tube and then
slide the throttle pushrod into its outer tube (from the firewall).

❏ 3. Bend the throttle pushrod as necessary to reach the

throttle arm without binding. When satisfied with the fit, inser t
the pushrod through the screw-lock pushrod connector on
the servo. Connect the clevis to the throttle on the engine,
snap the clevis closed, then slide the retainer in place.

❏ 4. With the radio switched on, move the throttle trim and

control stick to the fully closed position, by pulling them
back (or downward) all the way. Manually close the throttle
on the carburetor completely. Tighten the cap screw on the
screw-lock pushrod connector. Check throttle operation with
the radio and make adjustments to the linkages as
necessary for smooth operation. Use the appropriate holes
in the servo and throttle arms to provide the correct amount
of throttle movement and to prevent the servo from binding
at its end points.

The following steps cover fitting the cowl to an O.S. engine
using a Slimline muffler.

❏ 1. Prepare the Fuselage for the 13/16” x 7/16” x 1-3/16”

(20.5mm x 11mm x 30mm) hardwood Cowl Mounting
Blocks by sanding the areas shown using 120-grit

sandpaper. These areas need to be flat and the bare wood
exposed so the blocks can be glued securely. It is
recommended to remove the engine during the sanding
process to prevent an y dust from from entering the engine.

❏ 2. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the cowl mounting blocks

to the fuselage. Now is a good time to use 6-minute epoxy
to make sure all of the exposed wood is fuel proofed. The
outside edge of the top and bottom blocks must be 1/8”
(3mm) above and below the outside edges of the fuselage.
The side blocks extend 1/4” (6mm) beyond the outside
edge of the fuselage. After the epoxy has cured, use a
sanding block to sand a slight radius on each block. This is
done to match the curvature of the cowl, and to prevent the
cowl from cracking.

❏ 3. Use a piece of card stock to locate the edges of the

cowl mounting blocks. Use additional pieces to locate the
glow plug and needle valve.

❏ 4. Slide the cowling into position, without disturbing the

card stock. Temporarily attach the propeller to the engine.
Position the cowling to have 3/16” (4.7mm) clearance
between the propeller and the front of the cowling.

FINAL ASSEMBLYTHROTTLE PUSHROD INSTALLATION

12

❏5. Drill the locations for the cowl mounting screws using a

1/8” (3mm) drill bit. Mar k the locations on the cowl mounting
blocks. Use a 3/32” (2.4mm) drill bit to drill into the blocks.
Install the screws and then remove them. Wick thin CA into
the holes to harden the wood, which will prevent the screws
from stripping the underlying wood.

❏6.Use 1/2”(13mm) squares of fiberglass cloth (not included)

to make reinforcements behind the holes of the cowling.

❏ 7. Using card stock, mark the positions for the glow plug

and needle valve.Install the cowl, and transfer the locations
to the cowl. Carefully trim the cowl, removing small
amounts of material as you progress.

Note: If your engine’s carburetor is inaccessible with the
cowl in position, now would be a good time to add a Great
Planes Fuel Filler Valve (not included, GPMQ4160) to the
side of your aircraft.Instructions for installation are included
with the valve.

❏ 8. Mount the finished cowl with four #4 x 1/2” Sheet

Metal Screws and four #4 Washers.

❏ 9. Attach the muffler of your choice to the engine, and

trim the cowling so it can exit.

❏ 10. Attach the Wing Tips to the wing using medium CA.

Leave a 1/16”(1.5mm) gap between the Aileron and Wing Tip.

❏ 1. Carefully trim the canopy along the cut lines with

scissors or Lexan® shears. Test fit the canopy on the fuse
as you proceed, making small adjustments as required for
a good fit.

❏ 2. Paint the framework on the outside of the canopy

using black paint.Test the paint on a sample of the canopy
material to make sure the paint is compatible. Straight out
of the spray can, Top Flite LustreKote®is not recommended
for painting the clear plastic that your canopy is made from
and will eventually deform it. But, if you have an airbrush, it
is possible to paint your canopy with LustreKote. However,
you must use the following procedure. Spray an ounce or
two of LustreKote through a tube (such as a large drinking
straw or a brass tube) into a container. Let it sit for about an
hour or two to allow the damaging elements to “boil off.”
Using an air brush, you may now spray your canopy with
your specially prepared LustreKote. For airbrushing, we
recommend thinning LustreKote with lacquer thinner. If you
prefer to spray your canopy frame directly from a spray can,
we have had success with Pactra Formula U and Chevron
paint. Always test your painting methods on leftover
plastic before you try it on your model!

❏ 3. Paint the exposed wood of the cockpit with black

paint.You can use Top Flite LustreKote without any special
preparations to the paint or the model. Just make sure to
mask off any areas you do not want painted. Install pilots if
so desired, after painting.

❏ 4. Roughen the bottom 1/8” (3mm) of the inside canopy

edge, being careful not to scratch any exposed areas. Glue
the canopy into position with 6-minute epo xy or R/C-56 glue .

By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn
toward the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of
throw of the control surface. Moving it toward the control
surface will increase the amount of throw. If these
adjustments don’t accomplish the job, you may need to
work with a combination of adjustments by also
repositioning the pushrod at the servo end. Moving the
pushrod towards the center of the servo horn will decrease
the control surface throw – outward will increase it.

CONTROL THRO W ADJUSTMENT

FINISH THE COCKPIT

13

Note: Throws are measured at the widest part of the

elevators, rudder and ailerons. If your radio does not have
dual rates, set the control throws to halfway between the
specified high and low rates. We recommend the following
control surface throws as a starting point.

One leading cause of crashes is flying an airplane with its
control throws set differently from those recommended in the
instructions. The Great Planes AccuThrow™(GPMR2405)
lets you quickly and easily measure actual throws first, so
you can make necessary corrections before you fly. Large,
no-slip rubber feet provide a firm grip on covered surfaces
without denting or marring the finish. Spring tension holds
AccuThrow’s plastic ruler steady by each control surface.
Curved to match control motions, the ruler provides exact
readings in both standard or metric measurements.

Route the antenna to the tail of the model. You may use
your preferred method or the method we use in the Great
Planes model shop.Drill a 1/4” (6mm) hole through the fuse
side in the proximity of the receiver. Cut a 1/2” (13mm) long
piece of fuel tubing and install it in the hole. Install a strain
relief then, route the antenna through the fuel tubing to the
bottom of the fuse at the tail. Use a r ubber band to attach
the antenna to the tail gear wire. Do not cut or shorten the
antenna wire.Leave any excess to hang free.

❏ Make sure the

control surfaces
move in the proper
direction as shown
in the sketch.

❏ 1. Remove the covering from the landing gear slot.Test

fit the Main Landing Gear.It’s helpful if you use a file to
remove any burrs or sharp edges from the ends of the wire.
The gear will be swept forward toward the leading edge of
the wing. Seat the landing gear wire in the landing gear rail
on the wing. Use a Nylon Landing Gear Strap as a guide
to drill 1/16” (1.5mm) pilot holes for the screws. Secure the
landing gear with two nylon straps and four #2 x 3/8”Sheet
Metal Screws.

❏ 2. Install the main wheels using four 3/16” Wheel

Collars and 6-32 Set Screws. Grind or file a flat spot at the

point of set screw contact. This provides a better area for
the set screw to bite and helps keep the wheel in place.
Tr im off any excess axle wire after installing the wheel
collar.

❏ 3. Repeat step 2 for the tail wheel. Use a 3/32” Wheel

Collar and a 4-40 Set Screw.

❏4. Check the fit of the Wing Center Section Cover.Trim

the wing if the cover is slightly larger than the opening.Glue
the cover to the wing using medium CA.

Note: None of the hardware used in the retract
installation is included in the kit. All hardware must be
purchased separately.

The installation of the retracts requires a high degree of
testing and adjusting. Retract installation is only recommended
for experienced modelers.

Retractable Landing Gear

Fixed Gear & Tail Gear

WHEEL INSTALLATION

High Rates Low Rates

Elevator 1/2” up, 1/2” down 1/4” up, 1/4” down

(13mm up, 13mm down) (6mm up, 6mm down)

Ailerons11/16”up, 11/16’down 7/16” up, 7/16” down

(17mm up, 17mm down)(11mm up, 11mm down)

Rudder 1-1/8”right, 1-1/8” left 5/8” right, 5/8” left

(28mm right, 28mm left) (16mm right, 16mm left)

14

4-CHANNEL RADIO SET-UP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

❏❏1. Remove the covering from the opening in the

center section for the retract mechanism.Test fit the retract
into the wing. Remove the balsa sheeting from the wing to
expose the retract rails.Install the retract mechanism using
four #4 x 1/2”sheet metal screws.

❏❏2. Install the main wheel onto the axle. Secure the

position of the wheel using a wheel collar and set screw.
Trim off any excess axle wire after installing the wheel.

❏❏3. Glue the Retract Wheel Well into the wing using

medium CA.

❏ 4. Now for the hard part. Bend the retract strut so the

wheel will retract into the well. The strut will be bent
forward, and outward, to work correctly.

❏5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the other retract.

❏ 6. Install the retract servo into the center section using

two hardwood blocks. The ser vo must be mounted as low
as possible in the wing.

❏ 7. Install the linkages necessary to operate the retracts.

Use a “Z” bend at the servo to keep everything low. Cycle
the retracts to the “down”position. Look at both wheels, and
check to see if they have a slight amount of toe-in. If not,
adjust them, as slight toe-in will help in the ground handling
of your AT-6. Cycle the retracts a few times using the radio,
just to make sure the wheels are in the correct locations,
and the gear is not binding.

❏ 8. Check the fit of the Wing Center Section Cover.If

the retract servo binds on the cover, cut a hole to allow for
servo arm clearance. Trim the wing if the cover is slightly
larger than the opening. Glue the cover to the wing using
medium CA.

IMPORTANT:Do not confuse this procedure with “checking
the C.G.” or “balancing the airplane fore and aft.”

Now that you have the basic airplane nearly completed, this
is a good time to balance the airplane laterally (side-to-side).
Here is how to do it:

❏ 1. Assemble the model in as in preparation for flight. (No

fuel is required for this procedure.)

❏ 2. With the wing level, lift the model by the engine

propeller shaft and the bottom of the fin post (this may
require two people).Do this several times.

❏ 3. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it

means that side is heavy. Balance the air plane by adding
weight to the opposite, lighter wing tip. Note: An airplane
that has been laterally balanced will track better in loops
and other maneuvers.

BALANCE YOUR MODEL LATERALLY

15

Note: This section is VERY important and must NOT be

omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be
unstable and possibly unflyable.

❏ 1. The balance point (C.G.) is located 3-15/16” (100mm)

back from the leading edge of the wing (or 6-13/16 (173mm)
forward of the trailing edge), against the fuselage. Balance
your AT-6 using a Great Planes C.G. Machine™ Air plane
Balancer (GPMR2400) for the most accurate results. This is
the balance point at which your model should balance for your
first flights. After initial trim flights and when you become more
acquainted with your AT-6, you may wish to experiment by
shifting the balance up to 3/16” (5mm) forward or backward to
change its flying characteristics. Moving the balance forward
may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model may
then require more speed for takeoff and may become more
difficult to slow for landing. Moving the balance aft makes the
model more agile with a lighter, snappier “feel” and often
improves knife-edge capabilities. In any case, please start at
the location we recommend. Do not at any time balance your
model outside the recommended range.

❏ 2. With all the par ts of the model installed (ready to fly)

and an empty fuel tank, lift the model at the balance point. If
the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and you must add
weight* to the nose to balance the model. If the nose drops,
it is “nose heavy” and you must add weight* to the tail to
balance the model.

Note: Nose weight may be easily installed by using a
“spinner weight.” Tail weight may be added by using Great
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on”lead weights.

* If possible, first attempt to balance the model by changing
the position of the receiver battery. If you are unable to
obtain good balance by doing so, then it will be necessary
to add weight to the nose or tail to achieve the proper
balance point.

The assembly and installation of the fuel tank has been
intentionally placed after balancing to allow the battery and
receiver to be repositioned as necessary. Since the fuel
tank is located very near the CG, installing it after balancing
is acceptable.

❏ 1. The instructions for assembling the Fuel Tank are

included with the tank. Use these to prepare your fuel tank
for installation into the fuselage. Use the 90-degree tube
when assembling the fuel tank.

❏ 2. Wrap the tank with 1/4” foam rubber (HCAQ1000)

secured with a couple of rubber bands.

❏ 1. Drill two 1/4” (6mm) holes in the firewall near the

center to allow the fuel tubes to exit.Place the holes so the
tubes are easily routed to the muffler and carburetor. Put a
few drops of CA around the holes to seal the wood.

❏ 2. Place the fuel tank into the front of the fuselage.

Route the tubes through the holes in the firewall.

FUEL T ANK INST ALLATION

FUEL T ANK ASSEMBL YBALANCE YOUR MODEL (CG)

16

Vent

Fitting

Fuel Pick-up

Line

Cap

Clunk

Rubber Stopper

❏ 3. Connect the tubes to the engine, paying attention to

the orientation of the tubes.

❏ 4. Secure the tank in the fuselage so it will not move

during flight.

❏ 1. Use mixing sticks to make braces for the throttle,

rudder and elevator pushrods. Glue the braces into the
fuselage using medium CA.

❏ 2. Use medium CA to glue the outer pushrods tubes to

the pushrods exit slots in the fuselage.

At this time check all connections including servo horn
screws, clevises, servo cords and extensions. Make sure
you have installed the nylon retainer on the Screw-Lock
Pushrod Connector and the silicone retainers on all
the clevises.

Charge the Batteries

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio
instruction manual. You should always charge your
transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you
go flying and at other times as recommended by the
radio manufacturer.

Balance the Propeller

Carefully balance your propellers before flying. An
unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause of
vibration. Not only may engine mounting screws vibrate out,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration may
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run lean or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

Find A Safe Place to Fly

Since you have chosen the AT-6 ARF, we assume that you
are an experienced modeler.Therefore, you should already
know about AMA chartered flying fields and other safe
places to fly. If for some reason you are a relatively
inexperienced modeler and have not been informed, we
strongly suggest that the best place to fly is an AMA
chartered club field. Ask the AMA or your local hobby shop
dealer if there is a club in your area and join.Club fields are
set up for R/C flying and that makes your outing safer and
more enjoyable. The AMA address and telephone number
are in the front of this manual. If a club and flying site are
not available, find a large, grassy area at least 6 miles away
from houses, buildings and streets and any other R/C radio
operation like R/C boats and R/C cars. A schoolyard may
look inviting but is too close to people, power lines and
possible radio interference.

PREFLIGHT

SECURE THE PUSHRODS

17

Ground Check the Model

Inspect your radio installation and confirm that all the control
surfaces respond correctly to the transmitter inputs. The
engine operation must also be checked by confirming that
the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to
full power and maintains full power, indefinitely. The engine
must be “brok en-in” on the ground by running it for at least
two tanks of fuel. Follow the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations for break-in. Make sure that all screws
remain tight, that the hinges are secure and that the prop is
on tight.

Range Check Your Radio

Whenever you go to the flying field, check the operational
range of the radio before the first flight of the day. First,
make sure no one else is on your frequency (channel).With
your transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100
feet away from the model and still have control. While you
work the controls, have a helper stand by your model and
tell you what the control surfaces are doing.Repeat this test
with the engine running at various speeds with a helper
holding the model. If the control surfaces are not always
responding correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the
problem first.Look for loose servo connections or corrosion,
loose bolts that may cause vibration, a defective on/off
switch, low battery voltage or a defective receiver battery, a
damaged receiver antenna, or a receiver crystal that may
have been damaged from a previous crash.

Engine Safety Precautions
Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions may result

in severe injury to yourself and others.
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,

sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that the engine
exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide.
Do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines. Do
not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shir t
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off
the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to tr y to stop the engine. Do not throw anything
into the propeller of a running engine.

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously
successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airpor t operator. I will give right of way to and avoid flying in
the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safely rules for the
flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile or any kind).

Radio Control

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired
model airplane.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted
by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit
or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)

18

The Great Planes AT-6 ARF is a great-flying plane that flies
smoothly and predictably. The AT-6 does not, however,
possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C
trainer and should only be flown by experienced RC pilots.

Takeoff

Take off on low rates if you have dual rates on your
transmitter - especially if you are taking off into a crosswind.
For all models it is good practice to gain as much speed as
the length of the runway will permit before lifting off. This

will give you a safety margin in case the engine quits.When
the plane has gained enough flying speed to safely lift off,
gradually and smoothly apply up elevator and allow the
model to climb at a shallow angle (do not yank the model
off the ground into a steep climb!)

Flight

We recommend that you take it easy with your AT-6 for the
first several flights, gradually “getting acquainted” with this
great model as your engine gets fully broken-in.If you feel as
though you have your hands full, keep this in mind: pull back
on the throttle stick to slow the model down. This will make
everything happen a little slower and allow yourself time to
think and react. Add and practice one maneuver at a time,
learning how the AT-6 behaves in each. For smooth flying
and normal maneuvers, use the low rate settings as listed on
page 14.Use the high rate settings for hot dogging.

Sometime well before it’s time to land, you should climb
your AT-6 to a safe altitude, cut the throttle to an idle and
check out the model’s low speed characteristics. Do this a
few times so you know what to expect upon landing and
how the AT-6 handles stalls.

Landing

When it’s time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and
approach. Keep a few clicks of power on until you are over
the runway threshold. For your first few landings, plan to
land slightly faster than stall speed.

Have a ball! But always remember to think about your next
move and plan each maneuver before you do it.Impulsively
“jamming the sticks” without any thought is what gets most
fliers in trouble rather than lack of flying skill.
Happy Landings!

Caution: (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a
low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface
“flutter.” Because flutter can quickly destroy components
or your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must
immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check
all servo grommets for deterioration (this may indicate
which surface fluttered) and make sure all pushrod
linkages are slop-free. If it fluttered once, it will probably
flutter again under similar circumstances unless you can
eliminate the slop or flexing in the linkages. Here are
some things which can result in flutter: Excessive hinge
gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Sloppy fit of
clevis pin in horn; elasticity present in flexible plastic
pushrods; Side-play of pushrod in guide tube caused by
tight bends; Sloppy fit of control rods in servo horns;
Insufficient glue used when gluing in torque rods;
Excessive flexing of aileron, caused by using too soft
balsa; Excessive “play” or “backlash” in servo gears; and
insecure servo mounting.

FLYING

19

ENGINE MOUNT TEMPLATE

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date:________________________

Where Purchased:_________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________

Date Construction Finished: _________________

Finished Weight: __________________________

Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG