Great Planes GPMA1228 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

®

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of

purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without
notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user­assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, the
modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.

GPMZ0219 for GPMA1228 V1.1© Copyright 2000

P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61803 [phone]

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Cessna is a
registered
trademark of
Cessna Aircraft
Company

Wing Span - 62-5/8 in
Wing Area - 577 sq in
Weight - 6 lbs
Wing Loading - 24 oz/sq in
Fuse Length - 47 in
Engine - .40 - .46 2-stroke, .52 4-stroke

Important Safety Precaution......................................................2

Introduction.................................................................................2

Precautions .................................................................................2

Decisions You Must Make..........................................................3

Engine Selection....................................................................3

Preparations................................................................................3

Required Accessories............................................................3

Building Supplies and Tools ..................................................3

Optional Supplies and Tools ..................................................3

General Inspection ................................................................4

Building Notes .......................................................................4

Metric Conversions/Ruler ......................................................4

Parts List................................................................................5

Wing Assembly ...........................................................................6

Wing Installation .........................................................................7

Install the Tail Components .......................................................7

Engine Installation......................................................................9

Landing Gear Installation.........................................................10

Radio Installation ......................................................................11

Aileron Servo Installation.....................................................14

Steering Pushrod Installation...............................................16

Throttle Pushrod Installation................................................17

Fuel Tank Installation ...............................................................17

Cowl Installation .......................................................................19

Window Installation ..................................................................19

Final Assembly..........................................................................20

Radio System Set-Up ...............................................................21

Check the Control Directions...............................................21

Adjust the Control Throws ...................................................21

Route the Receiver Antenna ...............................................22

Balance Your Model..................................................................22

Check the Lateral Balance ..................................................22

Check the Fore–Aft Balance ...............................................22

Preparing to Fly Your Cessna 182 ..........................................23

Charge the Batteries ...........................................................23

Balance the Propeller ..........................................................23

Find a Safe Place to Fly ......................................................23

Ground Check the Model ....................................................23

Range Check Your Radio ....................................................23

Engine Safety Precautions ..................................................24

AMA Safety Code (excerpt)......................................................24

General................................................................................24

Radio Control.......................................................................24

Flying Your Cessna 182 ...........................................................24

Takeoff .................................................................................24

Flying ...................................................................................25

Landing................................................................................25

Engine Mount Template..................................Back Cover Page

Cowl Opening Template .................................Back Cover Page

Your Cessna 182 ARF is not a toy, but rather a
sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a
full-size airplane. Because of its realistic performance, the
Cessna 182 ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly,
could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable,
we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable
help from an instructor with assembly and during your first
flights. You’ll learn faster and avoid risking your model
before you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered
clubs across the country. Through any one of them,
instructor training programs and insured newcomer training
are available. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free
phone number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

The Great Planes Cessna 182 ARF is a high performance
sport airplane that closely resembles the full-size Cessna
182 both in appearance and performance. The Cessna 182
ARF is very stable and predictable, allowing even low time
pilots to enjoy it.

This is not a beginner’s airplane! While the Cessna 182
ARF is easy to build and flies great, we must discourage you

from selecting this kit as your first R/C airplane. It lacks the
self-recovery characteristics of good basic trainers such as
the Great Planes PT™Series. On the other hand, if you have
already learned the basics of R/C flying, and you are able to
safely handle a .40-size scale airplane, the Cessna 182
ARF is an excellent choice to try your skills at flying a sport
scale airplane.

1. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions should be considered as
correct.

2. Take time to build straight, true and strong.

3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition,
and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank,
wheels, etc.) throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install the R/C radio system and other
components so that the model operates properly on the
ground and in the air.

PRECAUTIONS

INTRODUCTION

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THIS

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2

5. You must test the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and you must
make certain that the model has remained structurally
sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often
and replace them if they show signs of wear or fatigue.

Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to

build!

YOU CAN CONTACT US...

If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you
have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at [phone]. You can also
check our web site at www.greatplanes.com for the

latest

Cessna 182 ARF

updates, or e-mail your questions to:

[e-mail]

If you are calling for replacement parts, please
reference the part numbers and have them ready when
calling.

Items in parentheses such as (GPMQ4243) are suggested
part numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops
and are listed for your ordering convenience. GPM is the
Great Planes brand, TOP is the Top Flite®brand, and HCA
is the Hobbico®brand.

❏ Four-channel Radio With Five Servos
❏ Engine - See Engine Selection Above
❏ Propeller (Top Flite

®

Power Point®–Refer To Your

Engine’s Instructions For Proper Size)

❏ Medium Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏ 6" Servo Extension (2)
❏ “Y” connector (1)

These are the building tools that are required. We
recommend Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue.

❏ 2 oz. Pro CA (Thin, GPMR6003)
❏ 2 oz. Pro CA+ (Medium, GPMR6009)
❏ 6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Pro Thread Locking Compound (GPMR6060)
❏ T-pins (HCAR5150)
❏ Adjustable Wrench
❏ Plastic Wrap or Waxed Paper
❏ Isopropyl Alcohol (70%)
❏ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Round Toothpicks
❏ Hobby Knife (TOWR1010), #11 Blades (TOWR1015)
❏ Small Hobby Clamps
❏ String
❏ Builders Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❏ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
❏ Easy-Touch

™

Bar Sander (GPMR6170, or similar)

❏ 1/4" Latex Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1000)
❏ Paper Towels
❏ Felt-Tip Marker
❏ Wire Cutter
❏ Pliers
❏ Long Nose Pliers
❏ File
❏ Drill Bits: 1/16" [1.5mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32" [2.5mm],

1/8" [3mm], 5/32" [4mm], 3/16" [5mm], 1/4" [6mm],
1/2" [13mm]

❏ R/C-56 Canopy Glue
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Single-edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312)
❏ Curved Tip Canopy Scissors for Trimming Plastic

Parts (HCAR0667)

❏ Switch and Charge Jack (GPMM1000)
❏ Center Punch
❏ Hook and Loop Material (GPMQ4480)
❏ Dead Center

™

Engine Mount Hole Locator

(GPMR8130)

❏ Fuel Filler Valve (GPMQ4160)

Optional Supplies & Tools

Building Supplies & Tools

Required Accessories

PREPARATIONS

Engine Selection

There are several engines that will work well in your
Cessna 182 ARF. We recommend a 2-stroke such as an

O.S.®.40 LA, O.S. .40 FX, O.S. .46 FX, or the
SuperTigre

®

GS-40 or GS-45. For unsurpassed power

and realistic sound, an O.S. FS-52 4-stroke can’t be beat.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a
top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately
the quality of your finished model depends on how
you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.

3

Remove the fuselage, wing panels, rudder assembly and
stabilizer assembly from their bags. Inspect all items closely
to check for any damage. If any of the control surfaces are
attached, simply pull them apart and store the hinges in a
safe place until it is time to re-attach them. The manual
begins with all the surfaces shown separated.

Your Cessna 182 is covered with high quality Top Flite
MonoKote®covering. If any of the covering has loosened,
use a heat gun or sealing iron to correct any of these
problems.

Several times during construction we refer to the “top” or
“bottom” of the model or a part of the model. It is understood
that the “top” or “bottom” of the model is as it would be when
the airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the
“top” even if the model is being worked on upside-down.

Building NotesGeneral Inspection

4

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm

5/32" = 4mm

3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm

18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

Metric Conversions

Inch Scale

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Metric Scale

5

Key# Description Qty

1 Fuselage 1
2 Left Wing Panel w/Aileron 1
3 Right Wing Panel w/Aileron 1
4 Left Wing Tip 1
5 Right Wing Tip 1
6 Wing Strut (Left & Right) 2
7 Left Wheel Pant 1
8 Right Wheel Pant 1
9 Nose Gear Wheel Pant 2
10 Aluminum Landing Gear (Right & Left) 2
11 Stabilizer 1
12 Elevator Assembly (Right & Left) 2
13 Rudder 1
14 Vertical Fin 1
15 Wing Center-Section 1
16 Wing Dowels 2
17 Wing Strut Fairing (Left & Right) 2
18 Landing Gear Fairing 1
19 Main Wheels 2
20 Nose Wheel 1
21 Fuel Tank 1
22 Steering Arm 1
23 Nose Gear Mount 1
24 Nose Gear 1
25 Spinner 1
26 Adjustable Engine Mount

(Left & Right Halves) 2

27 Side Windows (Left & Right) 2
28 Rear Window 1
29 Front Window 1
30 Cowl 1
31 Servo Tray 1
32 Wing Joiners 2

Parts Not Shown In Photo

Description Qty

CA Hinge Strip (2" x 9") 1
Hardware Bag 1

Replacement Parts

If needed, replacement parts for your

Cessna 182 ARF

are

available through your hobby supplier.

Wing Kit..................................................................GPMA2070

Fuselage Kit ...........................................................GPMA2071

Tail Set ...................................................................GPMA2072

Cowl .......................................................................GPMA2073

Windows.................................................................GPMA2074

Landing Gear Set ...................................................GPMA2075

Wheel Pants...........................................................GPMA2076

Strut Set .................................................................GPMA2077

Wing Tips................................................................GPMA2078

Parts List

11

27

Pushrods

29

28

13

21

2

3

1

30

9

7

31

6

8

19

19

15

20

17

18

17

25

24

6

4

5

10

10

16

14

32

12

23

26

22

❏ 1. Mark the ailerons left and right and remove them from

the wing panels. Remove the covering from the aileron
servo openings on the bottom of the wing only. Cut 1/8"

[3mm] inside of the opening to allow some material to be
ironed down inside the opening. Use a sealing iron to secure
the covering around the openings.

❏ 2. Locate the pre-installed strings in the wing center-

section and wing outer panels. When attaching the wing

outer panels to the wing center-section, the strings for
installing the aileron servos must be moved so they do not
interfere with the fit of the panels. Don’t remove the string
because you will use it to pull your aileron servo cords
through the wing later. Tape each of the strings located in
the aileron servo openings in the outer tip panels to the
bottom of the wing.

❏ 3. Locate the hardwood wing joiners. Test fit the wing

joiner into the right wing panel and the right side of the wing
center-section. The joiner is positioned so 1/3 is in the wing
center-section, and 2/3 is in the tip panel. A snug fit of the
joiner is desirable. If the joiner does not fit properly, lightly
sand any uneven surfaces of the joiner edges and sides.
Repeat this step to check the fit of the other wing joiner in
the left wing panel. Label each wing joiner for orientation
and the side that it is to be used on.

❏ 4. Drill two 1/2" [13mm] holes in the BOTTOM of the wing

center-section as shown in the drawing. The servo leads will
exit from these holes. The holes are located 2-3/4" [70mm]
back from the front of the wing center-section and 3-1/4"
[83mm] from the edges.

Make a dry run of the following step without using any glue
so you will know how to join your wing together, then
proceed using glue.

❏ 5. Un-tape the pre-installed strings in the wing center-

section and the right wing outer panel. Tie the strings
together, being careful not to pull the strings out of the
panels. Note: Don’t remove the strings because you will use
them to pull your aileron servo cords through the wing later.
Tape a piece of wax paper or plan protector over your work
surface. Use a liberal amount of 30-minute epoxy to glue the
wing joiner into the right wing panel and wing center-section.
Apply epoxy to all sides of the joiner, joiner pockets, and
center ribs of both the right wing panel and wing center­section. Join the wing panel and wing center-section. Use
masking tape to tightly tape the right wing panel and wing
center-section together. Be certain the leading and trailing
edges align. If you have used enough epoxy, it will “ooze”
out from the joint between the two ribs. Wipe off any excess
epoxy from the outside of the wing with a paper towel and
rubbing alcohol. With the wing center-section upright and
flat on your building surface, measure the distance from
your work surface to the tip of the wing outer panel to make
sure you have the correct amount of dihedral as shown in
the sketch. After the epoxy has cured, repeat this step to join
the left wing panel to the wing center-section.

❏ 6. Locate the two 1/4" x 2-1/8" [6mm x 54mm] hardwood

wing dowels. Slightly bevel the ends of the dowels. Test fit
the dowels into the wing, making sure they lock into the
holes inside the wing. If necessary, clean out the holes in the
wing using a 1/4" [6mm] drill bit. Use 30-minute epoxy to
glue the dowels into the wing, letting them protrude
3/8" [9.5mm]. Wipe off any excess epoxy using a paper
towel and rubbing alcohol.

WING ASSEMBLY

6

❏ 1. After the epoxy has cured from the previous step,

place
the wing on the fuselage. Measure from the aft center of the
fuselage to one wing tip and record the distance. Measure
from the same point to the opposite wing tip, and compare it
to the first measurement. If the measurements are not the
same, adjust the wing and re-measure until they are equal.
Place a mark on the wing and fuselage so it can be
repositioned accurately for the following steps.

❏ 2. Remove the covering from the wing center-section

where the wing bolts will pass through the wing.

❏ 3. Bolt the wing to the fuselage using two 6-32 x 1-1/4"

machine screws and two 6-32 washers. Check the

alignment
of the wing and enlarge the holes in the wing slightly to allow
the wing to be shifted to match the alignment marks.

❏ 1. Remove the covering from the slot in the fuselage for the

horizontal stabilizer. The location for the stabilizer can be
located by gently pressing the covering using your index
finger along the sides of the fuselage. Slide the stabilizer

into

position, and check the alignment as shown in the sketch.

❏ 2. Mount the wing to the fuselage using the bolts. Stand

back 8 to 10 feet [2.5 to 3 meters] and view the model from
the front and rear. The stabilizer tips should be equally
spaced above the level of the wing. If not, lightly sand the
high side of the stab saddle to correct the problem. Work
slowly and check the alignment often.

❏ 3. When the alignment is correct, mark the outline of the

fuselage onto the bottom and top of the stabilizer. Remove
the stabilizer, and trim the covering 1/32" [.8mm] inside of
the lines, being careful not to cut into the underlying wood.
Slide the stabilizer back into the fuselage, re-check the
alignment, and wick thin CA along the joint between the
stabilizer and fuselage.

❏ 4. Remove the covering on the fuselage under the

vertical fin. Draw a centerline on the top of the fuselage for
use in aligning the fin. Slide the fin into position, and check
the alignment as shown in the sketch and photo. Draw a line

INSTALL THE TAIL COMPONENTS

WING INSTALLATION

7

along both the sides of the fin where it meets the fuselage
and remove the covering 1/32" [.8mm] inside the line, being
careful not to cut into the underlying wood. Sand the bottom
of the fin and the slot in the fuselage if the fin is out of
alignment. Do not force the forward section of the fin into
position, as this will result in poor flight characteristics. Use
30-minute epoxy to glue the fin in position. Work the epoxy
into the slot in the fuselage, filling any loose-fitting joints
between the fuselage and stabilizer. Check the alignment of
the fin to the stabilizer with a triangle, then secure it in
position with masking tape until the epoxy has cured.
Double-check the alignment of the fin with the stabilizer
while the epoxy cures.

❏ 5. Test fit the rudder to the fin with the hinges. If the

hinges are difficult to install or don’t go in far enough,
carefully enlarge the hinge slots with a hobby knife and a
#11 blade. (Cut the hinges to the size shown above from the
2" x 9" [51mm x 229mm] hinge material.) Use the following
procedure for gluing the hinges and tail gear assembly:

❏ A. Drill a 3/32" [2.5mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm] deep, in the

center of the hinge slot. If you use a Dremel®MultiPro™for
this task, it will result in a cleaner hole than if you use a
slower speed drill. Drilling the hole will twist some of the
wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to insert the
hinge, so you should reinsert the knife blade, working it back
and forth a few times to clean out the slot.

❏ B. If the hinges don’t remain centered, remove the rudder

and insert a pin in the center of the hinges. Make sure there
is approximately a 1/64" [.4mm] gap between the rudder and
the fin.

❏ C. Add six drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges on

both sides. Use a paper towel to absorb excess CA from the
hinge gap before it cures. Do not use CA accelerator; allow
the CA to cure slowly.

❏ 6. Use the same hinging method to join the Elevators to

the stab.

ASSEMBLE, THEN APPLY 6 DROPS

OF THIN CA TO CENTER

OF HINGE, ON BOTH SIDES

TEMPORARY PIN

TO KEEP HINGE

CENTERED

DRILL A 3/32" [2.5mm] HOLE

1/2" [13mm] DEEP, IN CENTER

OF HINGE SLOT

1"

[25mm]

1"

[25mm]

3/4"

[19mm]

8

❏ 1. Cut or break the “spreader bar” from each engine

mount

half. Carefully trim any extra material left by the spreader
bar from each mount half. The surfaces where the spreader
bars were attached must be smooth to allow the mount
halves to fit together. Trim the flashing off any rough edges
if necessary.

❏ 2. Draw a horizontal line on the firewall 2-3/16" [56mm]

from the top of the fuselage. Draw a vertical line on the
firewall along the left side of the top and bottom stringers as
shown in the photo.

❏ 3. Cut the engine mount template from the back cover

page and tape it to the firewall as shown above. At the
locations on the template, drill four 1/8" [3mm] holes in the
firewall for the engine mount blind nuts.

❏ 4. Install four 4-40 blind nuts to the inside of the firewall.

Pull the blind nuts into the back side of the firewall using a
4-40 machine screw (with a flat washer under the head of
the bolt). Fit the two halves of the engine mount together.
Use four #4 flat washers and four 4-40 x 3/4" machine
screws to secure the engine mount to the firewall. Do not
tighten the screws at this time, as the mount must be
adjusted for the engine.

❏ 5. Test fit your engine into the mount. Adjust the width of

the rails to fit the engine snugly. Tighten the mount screws
to allow marking the engine mounting holes without moving
the rails.

❏ 6. Position the engine on the engine mount rails so the

propeller thrust washer (or spinner backplate) is 4-7/8"
[124mm] ahead of the firewall. Use a Great Planes Dead
Center Hole Locator (GPMR8130) (not included) or a
sharpened piece of wire to scribe the four engine mount
holes onto the rails. Use a center punch on the marks to
prevent the drill bit from wandering, then drill 3/32" [2.5mm]
pilot holes through the rails. Be sure to hold the drill

ENGINE INSTALLATION

9

perpendicular to the rails. If you have access to a drill press,
this is a good tool for this purpose. Put a drop of oil into each
hole. Use four #4 x 5/8" sheet metal screws to secure the
engine to the mount.

❏ 1. Test fit the main landing gear into the fuselage. The

gear will be swept forward toward the front of the fuselage.
Position the gear so they rest on top of the plywood gear
support plate. Secure the location on the main gear using
six 6-32 x 1/2" machine screws and six #6 washers. Use
thread locking compound on the screws to prevent
loosening.

❏ 2. Locate the two landing gear fairings. Cut the fairings

out using a hobby knife and scissors. Test fit the fairings
onto the landing gear and trim them for the best fit. Use the
photos on the box as a guide in trimming the fairings. Attach
the each fairing to the fuselage using medium CA.

❏ 3. Position a main wheel pant onto the main gear. Align

the pant so the bottom of the pant is flush with the bottom of

the landing gear as shown. Use a felt tip marker and transfer
the location of the hole onto the wheel pant. Remove the
pant, and drill the location using a 5/32" [4mm] drill bit.
Repeat the step for the other wheel pant.

❏ 4. Place a #6 washer onto a 6-32 x 1-1/2" machine

screw. Slide the screw through the landing gear. Place the
wheel pant onto the screw, then place two #6 washers onto
the screw. Begin threading a 6-32 lock nut onto the screw,
but only thread the nut on until 1/4" [6mm] of the screw is
exposed on the opposite side of the nut. Place the wheel
onto the screw, then while holding onto the nut using pliers,
tighten the screw to secure the wheel pant onto the landing
gear. Secure the wheel using a 6-32 lock nut. The remaining
nut can be tightened using either a hemostat or long
nose pliers.

❏ 5. Center the nylon nose gear block on the nose gear

block standoff. Mark the location for one of the holes. Drill
the one location using an 1/8" [3mm] drill bit. Install one
4-40 blind nut to the inside of the firewall. Pull the blind nut
into the back side of the firewall using a 4-40 socket head
cap screw (with a flat washer under the head of the bolt).
Use a #4 flat washer and a 4-40 x 1" socket head cap
screw to temporarily attach the nose gear block to the
standoff. Do not tighten the screw at this time, as the mount
must be aligned using the nose gear wire.

LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

10

❏ 6. Locate the nose gear wire and slide it through the

nose gear block. Adjust the position of the nose gear block
until the nose gear wire is aligned with the centerline of the
fuselage. Mark the locations for the remaining three holes
for the nose gear block. Remove the block, and drill the
locations using a 1/8" [3mm] drill bit. Secure the nose gear
block using a total of four 4-40 blind nuts, four #4 washers
and four 4-40 x 1" socket head cap screws.

❏ 7. Prepare the nose gear wheel pant by gluing two 3/8"

[9.5mm] square pieces of a mixing stick inside the pant as
shown using 6-minute epoxy.

❏ 8. Install the nose wheel and wheel pant by sliding the

wheel pant onto the nose gear wire. Slide a 5/32" wheel
collar onto the wire, inside the wheel pant. This wheel collar

is used as a spacer, and does not require a set screw to be
installed. Next, slide the wheel onto the wire. Last, thread a
6-32 set screw into a 5/32" wheel collar and slide it onto the
nose gear wire. With the wheel pant pressed against the
nose gear wire, tighten the set screw.

❏ 9. Position a nylon landing gear strap over the nose

gear wire. Mark the locations for the two holes so they will
be over the two pieces of the mixing stick which was glued
inside the wheel pant. Drill two 1/16" [1.5mm] holes at the
locations. Secure the strap into position using two #2 x 3/8"

sheet metal screws.

❏ Remove the covering from the windows on both sides of

the fuselage. Cut 1/8" [3mm] inside of the openings to allow
some material to be ironed down inside the opening. Use a
sealing iron to secure the covering around the opening.

❏ 1. Use the following sequence for mounting the servos

into the servo tray:

❏ A. Install rubber grommets and brass eyelets in the

servos as shown in the provided sketch.

❏ B. Test fit the servos in the tray. Enlarge the openings if

needed to create a 1/32" (.8mm) gap around the servo.

❏ C. Mark servo mounting hole locations on the tray, then

drill 1/16" [1.5mm] pilot holes through each mark.

❏ D. Mount the servos with the screws provided with your

radio system.

RADIO INSTALLATION

11

❏ 2. Install the rudder, elevator and throttle servos into the

servo tray noting the orientation of the servos. Plug the
battery and servos temporarily into the receiver. Center the
elevator, rudder and throttle trims on the transmitter.

❏ 3. Route the three servo cords as shown in the photo and

plug them into the receiver. Wrap the receiver and battery in
foam rubber. Attach the receiver and battery to the servo
tray using hook and loop material (not included).

❏ 4. Test fit the servo tray into the fuselage. The battery

and receiver are positioned towards the tail of the aircraft
when the tray is installed. Begin by sliding the tray into the
slot on former 2 as shown in the first photo. The second
photo shows the tray fully seated against former 2. The last
photo shows the tray fully seated against the landing gear
formers. Once the tray fits without any binding or flexing,
remove the tray and apply 30-minute epoxy to any areas in
the fuselage that contact the servo tray. Install the tray and
allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding to the
next step.

❏ 5. Cut the slots in both sides of the fuselage for the

elevator

pushrod tubes to exit the fuselage.

❏ 6. Use a 3/16" [5mm] drill bit or a sharpened 3/16" [5mm]

brass tube to chamfer the holes for easier installation of the
pushrod tubes.

12

❏ 7. Locate two 36" [914mm] outer pushrod guide tubes

and scuff the outsides with coarse grit sandpaper. Route the
tubes through the fuselage and into the radio compartment.
The tubes must protrude at least 1/2" [13mm] from the fuse
side exits. Glue the pushrod tubes into place using medium

CA.

❏ 8. Cut the elevator pushrod tubes at the aft edge of the

radio plate.

❏ 9. Insert two of the 2-56 x 36" threaded end rods into

the elevator tubes in the fuselage. The pushrod should slide
easily into the tube. Thread a nylon clevis on the pushrod
14-turns and add a silicone retainer to the clevis.

❏ 10. Install the elevator nylon control horns in line with the

pushrods and as shown in the sketch. Hold the horns in

position and mark the location of the mounting holes. Drill
3/32" [2.5mm] mounting holes through the marks. Wick two
to three drops of thin CA into the holes to harden the
underlying balsa, then re-drill the holes. Attach the horns
using four 2-56 x 5/8" machine screws and the nylon nut
plates. Do not overtighten the screws, crushing the
underlying balsa.

❏ 11. Center one of the elevators and elevator servo and

mark the pushrod where it crosses the servo arm. Enlarge
the servo horn hole with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.

❏ 12. Slide two of the 5/32" wheel collars onto the

pushrod
wire that will attach to the elevator servo. Make a 90º bend
in the pushrod on your mark, then insert it through the
enlarged hole in the servo arm. Secure the wire in place with
a nylon FasLink™pushrod keeper. Trim the excess wire
protruding from the FasLink as shown in the sketch.

❏ 13. While keeping both elevators centered, connect the

two elevator pushrods to each other with two 5/32" wheel
collars and two 6-32 x 1/4" socket head cap screws as
shown in the photo. Shorten the pushrod wire to prevent any
interference at the FasLink or servo arm. Use thread lock on
the screws to prevent loosening.

2-56 (.074")

Pushrod Wire

Servo Horn

FasLink

1/16"

INCORRECTCORRECT

HINGE LINE

13

❏ 14. Cut a slot in the left side of the fuselage for the rudder

pushrod tube to exit the fuselage.

❏ 15. Use a 3/16" [5mm] drill bit or a sharpened 3/16"

[5mm]
brass tube to chamfer the holes for easier installation of the
pushrod tube.

❏ 16. Locate a 36" [914mm] outer pushrod guide tube and

scuff the outside with coarse grit sandpaper. Route the tube
through the fuselage and into the radio compartment. The

tube
must protrude at least 1/2" [13mm] from the fuse side exits.
Glue the tube to the fuselage using medium CA.

❏ 17. Insert one of the 2-56 x 36" threaded end rods into

the
rudder tube in the fuselage. The pushrod should slide easily
into the tube. Thread a nylon clevis on the pushrod 14-turns
and add a silicone retainer to the clevis.

❏ 18. Install the rudder nylon control horn in line with the

pushrod. Hold the horn in position and mark the location of
the mounting holes. Drill 3/32" [2.5mm] mounting holes
through the marks. Wick two to three drops of thin CA into
the holes to harden the underlying balsa, then re-drill the
holes. Attach the horn using two 2-56 x 5/8" machine screws
and a nylon nut plate. Do not overtighten the screws,
crushing the underlying balsa.

❏ 19. Center the rudder and rudder servo and mark the

pushrod where it crosses the servo arm. Enlarge the servo
horn hole with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.

❏ 20. Make a 90º bend in the pushrod on your mark, then

insert it through the enlarged hole in the servo arm. Secure
the wire in place with a nylon FasLink pushrod keeper. Trim
the excess wire protruding from the FasLink.

❏ 21. Once the rudder and elevator pushrods have been

installed, a brace must be constructed to support the
pushrods near the servo. Use balsa or mixing sticks to make
the brace (not included). Position the brace so the pushrods
will not bind when the controls are operated. Secure the
brace using medium CA.

Prepare two “cross” style servo horns as follows but don’t
install them on the servos until instructed to do so.

Note: The size and shape of servo horns varies from
manufacturer to manufacturer. The sketches and photos
show a typical radio installation with standard servo horns.
All standard servo horns should fit in the Cessna 182.

❏ A. Cut off three arms from two servo horns included with

your radio control set to make them into “one arm” servo
horns. Use your Bar Sander to remove the remaining jagged
edges left from the cut-off arms.

❏ B. Enlarge the holes in the horns with a 5/64" [2mm] drill.

❏ C. Connect the aileron servos to the receiver. Turn on

your

transmitter and receiver, then position the aileron trim tabs

Aileron Servo Installation

14

on your transmitter in the center. This is called “centering”
the servos and will allow you to place the servo horns on the
servos in a neutral position. Attach the arms to the servos
using the following photo.

❏ 1. Trim the covering from the opening in the servo

hatches.
Position the servos onto the aileron servo hatches so the
output shaft of the servo is centered in the opening in the
hatch. Position the 3/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" [9.5mm x 19mm x
19mm] hardwood servo mounting blocks onto the hatches
so there is a 1/32" [.8mm] gap between the blocks and the
servo. Mark the locations of the blocks onto the hatch, and
remove the servo. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the blocks
to the hatch. Install the aileron servos using the grommets,
eyelets and screws that came with your radio system. After
“fishing” the servo wires through to the opening at the center
of the wing, plug them into a “Y” harness. Before

permanently
securing the servo hatches into position, hook up your radio
and double-check the centering and direction of both of the
aileron servos.

❏ 2. With the servo hatches in position, drill 1/16" [1.5mm]

holes through the servo hatches and into the servo rails at
each of the four corners. (It may be necessary to trim the
hatch support rails as necessary to provide clearance for the
servo mounting blocks.) Remove the hatches, and enlarge
the holes in the hatches using a 3/32" [2.5mm] drill bit. Use
#2 x 3/8" sheet metal screws to install the servo hatches.
Trim the openings in the servo hatches as necessary to
allow the clearance for the servo arm.

❏ 3. Cut six hinges from the hinge material. Install the

ailerons

using the hinges. Prepare the hinges and slots as shown on
page 8. Push the ailerons against the trailing edge of the
wing so there is approximately a 1/64" [.4mm] gap between
the leading edge of the aileron and the trailing edge of the
wing. Leave a gap of 1/16" [1.5mm] between the aileron and
the wing as shown in the previous photo to allow the
ailerons to move freely without binding against the wing.
Add six drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges on both
sides. Use a paper towel to absorb excess CA from the
hinge gap before

it cures. Do not use CA accelerator; allow the

CA to cure

slowly.

❏ ❏ 4. Two 2-56 x 6" threaded end rods are supplied to

make the aileron pushrods. Thread a nylon clevis onto a
pushrod 14-turns and add a silicone retainer to the clevis.
Hold the horn in position on the bottom of the aileron. The
horn must align with the servo arm, and as shown in the
sketch. Mark the location of the mounting holes onto the
aileron. Drill 3/32" [2.5mm] mounting holes through the

2-56 (.074")

Pushrod Wire

Servo Horn

FasLink

1/16"

INCORRECTCORRECT

HINGE LINE

15

marks. Wick two to three drops of thin CA into the holes to
harden the underlying balsa, then re-drill the holes. Attach
the horns using 2-56 x 3/4" socket head cap screws and
nylon nut plates. Do not overtighten the screws, crushing
the underlying balsa. Center the ailerons, then mark the
pushrods at the point where they meet the holes on the
servo arm. Make a 90º bend in the wires at this mark. Cut
off the excess wire 3/8" [9.5mm] above the bend. Insert the
bent wire pushrod into the servo horn, then attach the
linkage to the servo using a nylon FasLink™as shown in the
photo. Repeat this step for the other aileron linkage.

❏ 1. File a flat spot on the front of the nose gear wire where

it passes through the nose gear bearing. This provides a
better area for the screw to bite and helps keep the steering
arm in place.

❏ 2. One 5/32" wheel collar, a nylon steering arm, and a

6-32 x 1/4" socket head cap screw are used to mount the
nose gear. Place the wheel collar into the steering arm,
making sure the hole in the arm aligns with the hole in the
wheel collar for the set screw. Place the steering arm

between the upper and lower sections of the nose gear
block, and slide the nose gear through both sections of the
nose gear block and the steering arm. The coil on the nose

gear
is positioned as close to the mount block as possible without
binding. Use the photo and sketch to install the nose gear.

❏ 3. Drill a 3/16" [5mm] hole in the firewall for the nose gear

pushrod tube. When drilling the hole, align it with the outside
hole on the steering arm.

❏ 4. Now for the trickiest part of the assembly, routing the

nose gear pushrod tube. The tube will enter from the front of
the fuselage through the hole just drilled. Route the tube up
through the servo tray before former 2. It will exit along side
of the fuel tank above the servo tray and next to former 2.
Trim former 2 to provide clearance for the tube and to
properly align it with the servo arm. The photo shows the
pushrod tube as it is properly routed.

❏ 5. Assemble the steering pushrod using one nylon clevis,

one clevis retainer, one 2-56 x 1" threaded rod, one 2-56 x

Steering Pushrod Installation

16

6" threaded one end rod and one inner pushrod tube. Cut
the inner pushrod tube to a length of 6" [152mm]. Cut all but
1/4" [6mm] of the threads from the 2-56 x 6" threaded rod as
shown in the sketch to prevent it from binding during

operation.

❏ 6. Install a brass screw-lock pushrod connector with

the
4-40 x 1/8" cap screw on the steering arm. Snap the nylon
retainer onto the screw-lock pushrod connector post
beneath the arm.

❏ 7. Install the steering pushrod by sliding it into the

pushrod
tube from inside the fuselage. As the rod exits the firewall,
guide it through the pushrod connector on the steering arm.
Attach the clevis to the servo arm. With the rudder servo

centered,
center the nose gear and tighten the 4-40 screw. Cut the
excess pushrod 1/8" [3mm] forward of the pushrod

connector.

❏ 1. Install a brass screw-lock pushrod connector with the

4-40 x 1/8" cap screw on the throttle servo horn. Snap the
nylon retainer onto the screw-lock pushrod connector post
beneath the servo horn.

❏ 2. Drill a 3/16" [5mm] hole in the firewall for the throttle

pushrod tube. When drilling the hole, align it with the outside
hole on the throttle arm. Install the pushrod tube and secure
it into place using medium CA.

❏ 3. Assemble the throttle pushrod using one nylon

clevis,

one clevis retainer, one 2-56 x 1" threaded rod, one 2-56 x

6"
threaded one end rod and one inner pushrod tube. The
throttle pushrod is assembled the same as the steering
pushrod. Cut all but 1/4" [6mm] of the threads from the 2-56
x 6" threaded rod as shown in the sketch to prevent it from
binding during operation. The length of the inner pushrod
tubing will vary depending on your particular engine
selection.

❏ 4. Insert the pushrod into the outer pushrod guide tube and

through the screw-lock pushrod

connector on the servo.

Connect the clevis to the throttle arm on the

engine, snap the

clevis closed, then slide the retainer in

place.

❏ 5. With the radio switched on, move the throttle trim and

control stick to the fully closed position, by pulling them back
(or downward) all the way. Manually close the throttle on the
carburetor completely. Tighten the Cap Screw on the screw-

lock
pushrod connector. Check throttle operation with the radio
and make adjustments to the linkages as necessary for
smooth operation. Use the appropriate holes in the servo
and throttle arms to provide the correct amount of throttle
movement and to prevent the servo from binding at its
end points.

Note: There are three holes in the fuel tank stopper but only
two are used for this model. Do not puncture the third hole
in the stopper.

FUEL TANK INSTALLATION

Throttle Pushrod Installation

RETAINER

17

❏ 1. Push one short aluminum tube and one long

aluminum

tube through the rubber stopper until 1/2" [13mm] of the
tubes protrudes from the front of the stopper. Slide the large
cap onto the front of the stopper, and the small cap onto the

back. Insert the stopper screw into the center hole in the
front cap, then thread it through the stopper into the aft
stopper cap. Just start the threads in the aft cap or you won’t
be able to insert the stopper into the tank.

❏ 2. Push one end of the silicone pickup tube all the way

onto the clunk, and the other end all the way onto the short
aluminum tube. Bend the long aluminum (vent) tube upward
at about a 45º angle, being careful not to kink the tube.

❏ 3. Test fit the stopper into the fuel tank. The seam

around
the tank should be vertical. By holding the tank up to the
light you will be able to see where the vent tube is, in relation
to the top of the tank. If necessary, bend the vent tube to
position it about 1/8" [3mm] below the top of the tank. When
satisfied with the fit, make sure the stopper is fully seated in
the fuel tank. Tighten the stopper screw until the plastic cap
is indented about 1/16" [1.5mm]. Doing so will lock the
stopper into position. Check the clunk and pickup tube to
make sure they move freely in the tank without binding.
Mark the vent and clunk lines on the stopper so they can be
identified when the tank is installed.

❏ 4. Cut two 8" [203mm] pieces of medium fuel tubing and

attach them to the vent and clunk lines on the fuel tank.
Slide the fuel tank into position, guiding the tubes through
the hole in the firewall. Secure the position of the fuel tank
as shown in the photo to prevent movement during flight.
(The wood for securing the fuel tank is not included.)

❏ 5. Remove the covering from the fuselage in the location

of the muffler shield. Test fit the shield into position. Trace
around the shield, and remove the covering from the
fuselage under the shield. Use medium CA to glue the shield
into position.

❏ 6. Install the muffler for your particular engine. The

location

of the muffler shield is suitable for most engines. If your

particular
muffler does not line up, you may need to use an optional
muffler. Attach the vent line to the muffler and the clunk line
to the carburetor after cutting them to the proper length.

18

❏ 1. Slip the cowl over the front of the fuse. If the head of

your engine interferes with the cowl, you can temporarily
remove the head, or cut a hole in the cowl just large enough
to accommodate the engine. After the cowl is mounted, you
can enlarge the hole to allow some clearance for a more
finished appearance.

❏ 2. Position the cowl on the fuse and mount the spinner to

your engine. Use the stripes on the cowl and the fuselage as
a cue for alignment. View the cowl carefully to make sure
the cowl is centered horizontally and vertically on the
spinner. Position the cowl so there is a 3/32" [2.5mm] gap
between the cowl and the spinner backplate. Once the cowl
has been aligned, use masking tape to hold the cowl in
position.

❏ 3. Drill a 1/16" [1.5mm] hole through the cowl into the

firewall.
Place a #2 washer onto a #2 x 1/2" sheet metal screw and
tighten it through the cowl just far enough into the firewall to
temporarily hold that part of the cowl in place. Viewing the
cowl from the front, drill a hole at the 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock
positions. Insert a screw into cowl and firewall at each
location. A total of four washers and screws are used to
secure the cowl.

❏ 4. Remove the cowl and use the template from the back

cover page to cut the air intake into the front of the cowling
in front of the engine. On the opposite side, use black trim
sheet (not included), to mock up the second opening. Only
one opening is necessary to prevent overheating of the

engine.

❏ 5. Once the air intake opening is cut out, install the

cowling
onto the fuselage. Make any final adjustments to the
openings for the head of the engine, nose gear and muffler.
Also cut holes to allow for the needle valve, glow plug
access and any other adjustment you may have to make to
the engine while the cowl is installed.

❏ 1. Carefully trim the windshield along the cut lines with

scissors or Lexan®shears. Test fit the windshield on the fuse
as you proceed, making small adjustments as required for a
good fit.

❏ 2. If you wish to paint the windshield (and the rest of the

windows), test the paint on a scrap of the canopy material to
make sure the paint is compatible. Straight out of the spray
can, Top Flite LustreKote®is not recommended for painting
the clear plastic your windshield is made from and will
eventually curl it. But, if you have an airbrush, it is possible
to paint your windshield with LustreKote; however, you must
use the following procedure. Spray an ounce or two of
LustreKote through a tube (such as a large drinking straw or
a brass tube) into a container. Let it sit for about an hour or
two to allow the damaging elements to “boil off.” Using an air
brush, you may now spray your windshield with your
specially prepared LustreKote. For airbrushing, we
recommend thinning LustreKote with lacquer thinner. If you
prefer to spray your windshield frame directly from a spray

WINDOW INSTALLATION

COWL INSTALLATION

19

can, we have had success with Pactra Formula-U and
Chevron paint. Always test your painting methods on
leftover plastic before you try it on your model!

❏ 3. Roughen the outside 1/8" [3mm] of the inside

windshield
edge, being careful not to scratch any exposed areas. Glue
the canopy into position with 6-minute epoxy or R/C-56 glue.

❏ 4. Trim the side windows so 1/16" [1.5mm] remains for

the windows to rest on the inside of the fuselage. Because
the windows fit recessed into the fuselage from the inside,
this lip must remain on the windows. Roughen the outside
edges of the windows and glue them inside the fuselage
with 6-minute epoxy or R/C-56 glue.

❏ 5. Trim the rear window by removing the lip from the

outer

edge. Do not cut to the window outline.

❏ 6. Place the wing into position and slightly tighten the

wing
bolts. Slide the rear window underneath the wing. The rear
window is positioned correctly when the upper window line
is against the trailing edge of the wing.

❏ 7. Use the photos on the box in trimming the window.

There
should be at least 1/4" [6mm] overlap of the rear window
onto the fuselage along each side of the window, and 1/2"
[13mm] at the rear. Once trimmed, paint the edge of the
window to match the fuselage. Glue the rear window to the
fuselage using 6-minute epoxy or R/C-56 glue.

❏ 1. Position the tail cone onto the aft end of the fuselage.

The tail cone aligns with the rudder when it is in the neutral
position. Leave a constant gap between the rudder and tail
cone. Drill the locations for the two #2 x 3/8" sheet metal
screws using a 1/16" [1.5mm] drill bit. Wick two to three
drops of thin CA into the holes to harden the underlying
balsa. Enlarge the holes in the tail cone using a 3/32"
[2.5mm] drill bit. Attach the tail cone to the fuselage using
the two sheet metal screws.

❏ 2. Roughen the inside of the wing tips using 120-grit

sandpaper.

Attach the wing tips to the wing using medium CA.

Leave a

1/16" [1.5mm] gap between the aileron and wing tip.

❏ 3. Prepare the struts by inserting the strut ends into the

struts. Position the end so there is a 1/16" [1.5mm] gap

FINAL ASSEMBLY

20

between the end and the strut. Glue the strut ends to the
struts using thin CA.

❏ 4. Locate the small mark locating the strut mounting

block
for the fuselage. Drill a 1/16" [1.5mm] hole into the fuselage
at the mark. Drill a 3/32" [2.5mm] hole in the center of both
strut ends. Wick two to three drops of thin CA into the holes
to harden the underlying balsa. Attach the strut to the
fuselage using a #2 x 1/2" sheet metal screw and a #2

washer.

❏ 5. Position the end of the strut 1-1/8" [28mm] behind the

leading edge of the wing. Drill a 1/16" [1.5mm] hole into the
strut mounting block though the strut end. Secure the strut
to the wing using a #2 x 1/2" sheet metal screw and a
#2 washer.

❏ 6. Trim the plastic strut fairing using a hobby knife and

scissors. Round the corners of the strut ends to allow each
strut fairing to fit properly. Use the photos on the box as a
guide when trimming each fairing. Drill a 3/16" [5mm] hole in
each fairing to allow access to the attachment screws. Use
medium CA or 6-minute epoxy to glue each strut fairing to
the strut.

Turn on the transmitter and then the receiver. Standing
behind the plane, make the following movements with the
transmitter and observe the control surfaces:

If any of the servo movements are wrong, reverse the servo
direction with the servo reversing switches on the
transmitter.

Check the movement of the control surfaces. Use a ruler to
match our measurements listed below.

Aileron 1/4" [6mm] up

1/4" [6mm] down

Elevator 7/16" [11mm] up

7/16" [11mm] down

Rudder 1-7/8" [48mm] left

1-7/8" [48mm] right

These are the suggested deflections from the center of the
control surfaces.

If you need more control movement, you should move the
clevis to a hole closer to the control surface or you can move
the rod at the servo away from the center of the servo. If you
have too much movement, do the opposite. See the
following sketches:

Adjust the Control Throws

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL RADIO SET-UP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

Check the Control Directions

RADIO SYSTEM SET-UP

21

One leading cause of crashes is flying an airplane with its
control throws set differently from those recommended in
the instructions. The Great Planes AccuThrow™lets you
quickly and easily measure actual throws first, so you can
make necessary corrections before you fly. Large, no-slip
rubber feet provide a firm grip on covered surfaces without
denting or marring the finish. Spring tension holds
AccuThrow’s plastic ruler steady by each control surface.
Curved to match control motions, the ruler provides exact
readings in both standard or metric measurements.

GPMR2405.

Route the antenna to the tail of the model. You may use your
preferred method or the method we use in the Great Planes

model shop. Drill a 1/4" [6mm] hole through the fuse side in
the proximity of the receiver. Cut a 1/2" [13mm] long piece
of fuel tubing and install it in the hole. Install a strain relief
(as shown in the sketch), then route the antenna through the
fuel tubing to the bottom of the fuse at the tail. Use a rubber
band to attach the antenna to a T-pin at the aft end of the
fuselage. Do not cut or shorten the antenna wire. Leave any
excess to hang free.

Special Note: Do not confuse this procedure with “checking
the C.G.” or “check the fore-aft balance.”

Now that you have the basic airframe completed, this is a
good time to balance the airplane laterally (side-to-side).
Here is how to do it:

❏

1. Attach the wing to the fuselage.

❏

2. With the wing level, lift the model by the engine
propeller shaft and the fin post (this may require two
people). Do this several times.

If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by gluing weight to
the other wing tip. Note: An airplane that has been laterally
balanced will track better in loops and other maneuvers.

Note: This section is VERY important and must NOT be
omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be
unstable and possibly unflyable.

The balance point (C.G.) is located 3" [76mm] back from the
leading edge of the wing against the fuselage. Balance your
Cessna using a Great Planes C.G. Machine™Airplane
Balancer (GPMR2400) for the most accurate results. This is
the balance point at which your model should balance for
your first flights. After initial trim flights and when you
become more acquainted with your Cessna, you may wish
to experiment by shifting the balance up to 1/4" [6mm]

Check the Fore–Aft Balance

Check the Lateral Balance

BALANCE YOUR MODEL

Route the Receiver Antenna

results in more throw.

Moving the clevis inward on the control horn

throw

More

throw

More

More

movement

results in more pushrod movement.

Moving the clevis outward on the servo arm

Less

movement

movement

More

22

forward or backward to change its flying characteristics.
Moving the balance forward may improve the smoothness
and stability, but the model may then require more speed for
takeoff and may become more difficult to slow for landing.
Moving the balance aft makes the model more agile with a
lighter, snappier “feel.” In any case, please start at the
location we recommend. Do not at any time balance your
model outside the recommended range.

With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the model
installed (ready to fly), and an empty fuel tank, hold the
model at the marked balance point with the stabilizer level.

Lift the model. If the tail drops when you lift, the model is “tail
heavy” and you must add weight* to the nose. If the nose
drops, it is “nose heavy” and you must add weight* to the tail
to balance.

Note: Nose weight may be easily installed by using a
spinner weight (GPMQ4645 for the 1 Oz. weight, or
GPMQ4646 for the 2 Oz. weight) or gluing lead weights to
the firewall. Tail weight may be added by using Great Planes
“stick-on” lead weights (GPMQ4485).

*If possible, first attempt to balance the model by changing
the position of the receiver battery and receiver. If you are
unable to obtain good balance by doing so, then it will be
necessary to add weight to the nose or tail to achieve the
proper balance point.

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio
instruction manual. You should always charge your
transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go
flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio
manufacturer.

Balance your propellers carefully before flying. An
unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause of
damaging vibration. Not only will engine mounting screws
and bolts vibrate out, possibly with disastrous effect, but
vibration will also damage your radio receiver and battery.
Vibration will cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn,
cause your engine to run rough or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

The best place to fly your R/C model is an AMA (Academy
of Model Aeronautics) chartered club field. Ask your hobby
shop dealer if there is such a club in your area and join. Club
fields are set up for R/C flying and that makes your outing
safer and more enjoyable. The AMA also can tell you the
name of a club in your area. We recommend that you join
the AMA and a local club so you can have a safe place to fly
and have insurance to cover you in case of a flying accident.
(The AMA address and phone numbers are listed on page 2
of this instruction manual).

If a club and its flying site are not available, you need to find
a large, grassy area at least 6 miles away from any other
R/C radio operation like R/C boats and R/C cars and away
from houses, buildings and streets. A schoolyard may look
inviting but it is too close to people, power lines and possible
radio interference.

If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R/C
models, ask an experienced modeler to check to see that
you have the radio installed correctly and that all the control
surfaces do what they are supposed to. The engine
operation also must be checked and the engine “broken-in”
on the ground by running the engine for at least two tanks of
fuel. Follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendations for
break-in. Check to make sure all screws remain tight, that
the hinges are secure and that the prop is on tight.

Wherever you do fly, you need to check the operation of the
radio every time before you fly. First, make sure no one else
is on your frequency (channel). With the transmitter antenna
collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should
be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and
still have control. Have someone help you. Have them stand
by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you
what the various control surfaces are doing.

Range Check Your Radio

Ground Check the Model

Find a Safe Place to Fly

Balance the Propeller

Charge the Batteries

PREPARING TO FLY YOUR

CESSNA 182

23

Repeat this test with the engine running at various speeds
with an assistant holding the model. If the control surfaces
are not always acting correctly, do not fly! Find and correct
the problem first.

Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that the engine
exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide.
Therefore do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand, as
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from
the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run
the engine.

Keep items such as these away from the prop: loose
clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects
(pencils, screwdrivers) that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” device or electric starter; follow the
instructions supplied with the starter or stick. Make certain
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating

propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop the engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the
fuel line or follow the engine manufacturer’s

recommendations.
Do not use hands, fingers or any body part to try to stop the
engine. Do not throw anything into the prop of a running

engine.

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code excerpt:

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been

proven to be airworthy by having been previously
successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right of way to, and avoid flying in
the proximity of, full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind)

Radio Control

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment

ground

check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by
an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit
or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal

Communications

Commission.

The Cessna 182 is a great flying sport airplane that flies
smoothly and predictably, yet is highly maneuverable. It
does not have the self-recovery characteristics of a primary
trainer. Therefore, you must either have mastered the basics
of R/C flying or seek the assistance of a competent R/C pilot
to help you with your first flights.

Although the Cessna 182 has great low speed

characteristics,
you should always build up as much speed as your runway
will permit before lifting off, as this will give you a safety
margin in case of a “flame-out.” When the plane has
sufficient flying speed, lift off by smoothly applying a little up
elevator (don’t “force” it off to a vertical climb!), and climb out
gradually.

Takeoff

FLYING YOUR CESSNA 182

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)

Engine Safety Precautions

24

We recommend that you take it easy with your Cessna 182
for the first several flights and gradually “get acquainted”
with this fantastic ship. Add and practice one maneuver at a
time, learning how she behaves in each one. Spins and
inverted spins are also performed with ease.

When it’s time to land and you cut the throttle, you’ll notice
a very slight climbing tendency at first, which bleeds off
some speed; then it assumes the normal glide angle, slightly
nose down.

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe
manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

SpaceWalker ARF GPMA1300

Based on Jesse Anglin’s ’86 tribute to ’30s homebuilts, the
SpaceWalker takes only a few hours to assemble. It has a
strong, wood frame; welded, steel landing gear; side plates;
ABS wheel pants; windshield; and a cowl color-matched to
the MonoKote covering. Smooth in flight, it blends the
muscle of dual aileron servos with the aerobatic potential of
a symmetrical airfoil. Note: Pilot figure not included.

Piper J-3 Cub ARF GPMA1310

This sport-scale model is all-wood, impressively detailed,
and flight-ready in as little as 15-20 hours! Surrounding the
CAD-engineered framework is real woven Coverite™21st
Century®fabric. With its dual aileron servos the Cub
maneuvers well. It also lands gently and includes a
prepainted fiberglass cowl, replica cylinder heads,
adjustable engine mount and Great Planes-brand hardware.

Note: Pilot figure not included.

AT-6 Texan ARF GPMA1245

Enjoy smooth flight and easy aerobatics with this kit-quality
ARF. Precision-molded, painted parts include a glass­reinforced cowl. Plus, the AT-6 offers the strength of
wood...the dependability of Great Planes hardware...and the
fine finish of Top Flite MonoKote film. Fixed landing gear is
supplied, though wheel wells and mounting rails are built-in
for retracts. Note: Pilot figure not included.

Giles G-202 GPMA1315

Designed to convince “kitters” that ARFs can be
outstanding! Parts interlock for strength, and are all-wood
except for fiberglass parts factory-painted to match the
preapplied MonoKote covering. Competition mounted
servos (2 each for ailerons and elevators, 1 for the rudder)
plus double-beveled rudder and elevator control surfaces
open the way for wild, 3D stunts. Note: Pilot figure not
included.

OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE FROM

GREAT PLANES

Landing

Flying

25

Extra 300 ARF GPMA1240

It’s the aerobat that's engineered for ease, and precovered
in Top Flite MonoKote film, the choice of fliers worldwide!
Rounded aluminum gear add scale looks, along with
prepainted ABS wheel pants and a 1-piece cowl that
conceals most engines. In the air, dual aileron servos and
independently adjustable elevator yokes increase control
precision and authority. Note: Pilot figure not included.

Master Caddy™Field Box w/APS GPMR1000

Constructed of sturdy ply, the Master Caddy comes ready to
assemble and can be finished however you wish. It
measures 25" x 15.75" x 8.25" with large drawers and roomy
compartments to carry all of your field gear. Flight line
essentials go in the lightweight, removable Auxiliary Power
Station (APS). Cushioned, adjustable–width cradles hold
your model safely for cleanup and maintenance.

Bench Topper™ GPMR8500

The Great Planes Bench Topper hold the inexpensive
answer to building supply storage and organization hassles.
It assembles quickly into a 15.5" x 7.5" x 5.25" caddy that fits
comfortably on any bench–or can be mounted conveniently
on a wall. The lite ply parts simply CA together. Knives,
scissors, paint brushes, CA and epoxy bottles, mixing

cups...the Bench Topper offers a place for everything. You
can even customize its top center-section to suit your
special storage needs! GPMR8500

Quick Field Charger HCAM3000

The Quick Field Charger recharges 9.6V transmitter and

4.8V or 6.0V receiver batteries right on the spot, using any
12V DC input. Advanced Delta peak sensing technology
automatically switches to trickle once batteries are fully
charged. Unique voltage boost circuitry peaks transmitter
NiCds even in diode-equipped radios. Includes 2.5A fuse,
alligator clips on a 14" input cord and banana plugs. 2-year
warranty. Connectors required.

ProGlo™NiCd Starter Clips GPMP2012

The chrome-plated socket is a tip-off to the dependability
underneath. Knurled, anodized aluminum barrel unscrews
so depleted NiCds can be replaced--and ProGlo can keep
the glow power coming.

26

27

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: _______________________

Where Purchased:_________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________

Date Construction Finished: _________________

Finished Weight: __________________________

Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG

Cowl Opening Template

Engine Mount Template

Refer to this template
when instructed in
this manual.

Refer to this template
when instructed in
this manual.