Great Planes GPMA1023 User Manual

ARF .61-.91 SPORT BIPLANE

™

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WARRANTY

Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to

be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modiﬁ cation. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the ﬁ nal assembly or material used for ﬁ nal assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the ﬁ nal user-assembled product. By the act of using the userassembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return

Top Wingspan: 48 in [1220mm]

Bottom Wingspan: 48 in [1220mm]

Total Wing Area: 1145 sq in [73.9 dm2]

Weight: 7–7.5 lb [3170–3400 g]

Wing Loading: 14–15 oz/sq ft [43–46 g/dm2]

Length: 58.5 in [1485mm]

Radio: 4–5 ch.

Engine: .61 cu in [10cc] two-stroke,

.70–.91 cu in [11.5–15.0cc] four-stroke,

RimFire™ .80 (50-55-500kV)

this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822 USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package, the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT

INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Champaign, Illinois

(217) 398-8970, Ext 5

airsupport@greatplanes.com

GPMA1023Mnl1.0

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ............................................................... 2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ........................................ 3

Engine Recommendations ......................................... 3

Motor/Battery/ESC Recommendations ...................... 3

Radio/Servo Recommendations ................................ 4

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED .................................... 6

Adhesives and Building Supplies ............................... 6

Optional Supplies and Tools .......................................6

Covering Tools ...........................................................6

BUILDING NOTES ............................................................ 6

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS .............................. 6

KIT INSPECTION .............................................................. 7

KIT CONTENTS ................................................................ 7

PREPARATION ................................................................. 8

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE .......................................... 8

Test-Mount the Elevator and Rudder Servos ............. 8

Mount the Horizontal Stabilizer (Stab) ....................... 9

Hinge the Elevators and Rudder .............................. 11

Hook up the Elevator and Rudder ............................ 12

Mount the Main Landing Gear .................................14

Mount the Motor ....................................................... 14

Mount the Engine ..................................................... 16

Install the Fuel Tank ................................................. 17

Hook up the Throttle ................................................. 18

Mount the Cowl ........................................................ 18

ASSEMBLE THE WINGS ................................................ 22

Mount the Aileron Servos ......................................... 22

Mount the Wings ......................................................23

Mark the Balance Point (C.G.) ................................. 26

FINAL ASSEMBLY ......................................................... 27

Mount the Canopy .................................................... 27

Final Radio Installation ............................................. 27

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY ................................. 28

Apply the Decals ...................................................... 28

LiPo Battery Precautions .........................................28

Check the Control Directions ................................... 29

Set the Control Throws ............................................ 29

Assemble the Balance Stand ................................... 31

Balance the Model (C.G.).........................................31

Balance the Model Laterally ..................................... 32

PREFLIGHT .................................................................... 32

Identify Your Model ................................................... 32

Charge the Batteries ................................................ 32

Balance Propellers ...................................................32

Ground Check ..........................................................33

Range Check ........................................................... 33

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ................................. 33

AMA SAFETY CODE (

CHECK LIST ................................................................... 34

FLYING ............................................................................ 34

Takeoff ..................................................................... 34

Flight ....................................................................... 35

Landing .................................................................... 35

EXCERPTS) ..................................... 33

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes Reactor .60 biplane. The Reactor brings “new blood” into the hobby by combining the stable, predictable ﬂ ight characteristics of models from the “old days,” with the light weight, style and maneuverability contemporary modelers demand. In spite of the Reactor’s aggressive appearance, the Reactor still handles amazingly well at low speeds and is an absolute “hoot” to bring in nice and slow for a landing.

There are several options and conﬁ gurations for assembling your Reactor .60 biplane, so please read through the manual to decide on how your model will be completed.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the Reactor .60 biplane, visit the Great Planes web site at www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then select the Reactor .60 biplane ARF. If there is new technical information or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.

AMA

If you are not already a member of the AMA, please join! The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership provides liability insurance coverage, protects modelers’ rights and interests and is required to ﬂ y at most R/C sites.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Tele: (800) 435-9262

Fax (765) 741-0057

Or via the Internet at:

www.modelaircraft.org

IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do

to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid ﬂ ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid ﬂ ying near or over groups of people.

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

Engine Recommendations

1. Your Reactor .60 Bipe should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the Reactor, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unﬂ yable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct.

3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in good condition, a correctly sized engine, and other components as speciﬁ ed in this instruction manual. All components must be correctly installed so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air. You must check the operation of the model and all components before every ﬂ ight.

5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not ﬂ own this type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your ﬁ rst ﬂ ights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots.

6. While this kit has been ﬂ ight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress ﬂ ying, such as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the increased stress.

7. WARNING: The cowl, wheel pants and center wing brace included in this kit are made of ﬁ berglass, the ﬁ bers of which may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part (wheel pant, cowl) to remove ﬁ berglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding ﬁ berglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after working with ﬁ berglass parts.

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and ﬂ yability of your ﬁ nished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

The recommended engine sizes for the Reactor .60 biplane are speciﬁ ed on the cover of this instruction manual. If you haven’t yet decided whether to go 2-stroke or 4-stroke, one big advantage of most 4-strokes (such as the O.S. Max .91 illustrated in this manual) is that the mufﬂ er can be positioned to aim messy exhaust out the bottom of the fuselage keeping most of the plane pretty clean. If mounting a 2-stroke inverted (positioning the mufﬂ er on the side of the fuselage), much of the exhaust tends to get deposited on the side of the fuselage unless preventative measures are taken.

If using the O.S. Max .91 and you wish to conﬁ gure the mufﬂ er as shown in the manual (see page 20), an O.S. “Exhaust Header Pipe (IN)” will also be required (OSMG2624).

3’ [900mm] standard silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131) will also be required for glow engine installation.

A #29 (.135" [3.4mm]) drill and an 8/32 tap will be required for drilling and tapping holes in the motor mount. A Great Planes 8-32 tap & drill set (GPMR8103) or a Great Planes 10 piece tap & drill set (GPMR8108) are suitable.

Motor/Battery/ESC Recommendations

If electric power is your preference, rest assured that an extensive part of testing and development of the Reactor .60 biplane was done with electric power. With the recommended power plant, the Reactor was a thrill to ﬂ y and able to perform all the same “3D” maneuvers it did when powered with glow.

If not certain whether to go glow or electric, consider some of the advantages of electric, which are: absence of oily exhaust residue and the constant cleaning that goes with it; “instant on” from never having to start the engine; and most important to some people, silence. Of course, there are other variables that may offset some of these advantages such as the expense of LiPo batteries and all the charging paraphernalia, charging time, and shorter ﬂ ight times. (Using the batteries and motor recommended, average ﬂ ight times for the Reactor were approximately 8 minutes.)

Following are the items illustrated in the instruction manual for equipping your Reactor .60 biplane with an electric motor:

POWER SYSTEM

❏ Great Planes ElectriFly

electric motor (GPMG4740)

™

RimFire™ .80 (50-55-500kV)

❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Brushless Motor Mount for large

motors (GPMG1260)

❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Silver Series 60A Brushless ESC

(GPMM1850)

❏ (4) 3mm x 10mm socket-head cap screws (DUBQ3227) ❏ (4) 3mm or #4 ﬂ at washers (DUBQ3307) ❏ (4) 3mm or #4 lock washers (DUBQ3285) ❏ APC 15 x 8E propeller (APCQ4013) ❏ APC 15 x 6E propeller (APCQ1505)

BATTERY

A 3200mAh “6S” (6-cell, 22.2V) 20C LiPo (Lithium Polymer) battery is recommended. However, 6S batteries are not readily available, so two 3S (3-cell, 11.1V) batteries connected in series (via a Y-connector) are required to make one ﬂ ight pack. This means two batteries will be required for the each “ﬂ ight pack” desired. Also note the “20C” requirement which means that the batteries must be able to deliver current at a rate that is at least 20 times its rated capacity. This enables the motor to draw enough current to suitably ﬂ y the plane.

Another critically important component of the motor battery charging system is a cell balancer. LiPo battery technology is so powerful that each, individual cell within the battery pack should be charged equally—or balanced. Otherwise, capacity, power and the overall battery life will be diminished. (1) Great Planes ElectriFly Equinox LiPo Cell Balancer for each battery to be charged simultaneously is recommended.

Finally, propeller selection has a noticeable effect on how the Reactor performs. During ﬂ ight testing we learned that an APC 15 x 8E propeller was the best all-around propeller for performance and sport ﬂ ying, but if ﬂ ying mostly 3D maneuvers (speciﬁ cally hovering), an APC 15 x 6E is recommended.

Here are the part/order numbers for all of the charging items suggested:

❏ Great Planes PolyCharge4

(GPMM3015)

™

DC LiPo charger

❏ Hobbico 12V Power Supply (HCAP0250) ❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Equinox

(GPMM3160)

IMPORTANT: Before experimenting with different battery combinations and connecting multiple battery packs with adapter plugs, read the Battery Precautions on page 28.

™

LiPo Cell Balancer

The required battery adapter to convert two 3S packs into a 6S pack is the Great Planes U.S. Deans® 2 to 1 Series adapter.

❏ Great Planes ElectriFly

battery (GPMP0623)

™

3200mAh 11.1V (3S), 20C LiPo

❏ Great Planes U.S. Deans 2 to 1 Series adapter

(GPMM3143)

❏ Great Planes adhesive-backed Velcro

batteries) is also required (GPMQ4480)

BATTERY CHARGING SETUP

(for mounting the

Radio/Servo Recommendations

SERVO OPTIONS

With the exception of the throttle servo, the rest of the servos used to ﬂ y the Reactor .60 biplane require a minimum torque rating of 50 oz.-in. [3.6 kg-cm], although the S3102 micro servos used for the ailerons should not be used for the elevators or rudder. The cutouts in the fuselage for the two elevator servos and the one rudder servo are sized for sub-standard size servos (such as Futaba S9650s, optimum for light weight and ﬂ ight precision and illustrated in these instructions). However, standard size servos (such as S9001s) may also be used simply by enlarging the openings with the included plywood template.

Because each elevator is operated by a separate servo, a radio capable of servo mixing or a servo reverser (such as the Futaba SR-10 Dual Servo Reverser, FUTM4150) will be required. However, because the elevator servos are “mirrored” on opposite sides of the fuselage (with the exception of one servo positioned ahead of the other so they do not interfere with each other in the narrow fuselage), a “computer” radio capable of separately adjusting the servo’s endpoints is not required.

A battery charger suitable for charging LiPo batteries is also required. The Great Planes PolyCharge4 DC LiPo charger can charge up to four 3S LiPo batteries simultaneously. The PolyCharge4 is powered by a 12V source such as an automobile battery. But if charging from a 110V wall outlet is preferred, a 110V-powered 12V power supply (for powering the battery charger) will be required.

The mounting blocks for the four aileron servos ﬁ t almost any size servo from the S3102 mini servos (also optimum for light weight and ﬂ ight precision and illustrated in these instructions) to standard-size servos (such as S9001s for sport ﬂ ying).

Here is some technical data for the suggested servos to assist you in making a decision:

WeightTorque (@ 4.8V)

S9001

(FUTM0075)

S9650

(FUTM0260)

S3102*

(FUTM0034)

SERVO ARMS

If planning to do much 3D ﬂ ying with Reactor .60 biplane, extended servo arms will be required to achieve the necessary 3D throws. Otherwise, the standard servo arms that came with your servos are suitable. For 3D ﬂ ight, an extended servo arm such as a Great Planes large-scale 1-1/2" [38mm] single-sided servo arm (GPMM1105) is recommended for the rudder servo and a Great Planes large-scale 1" [25mm] single-sided servo arm (GPMM1100) is recommended for each elevator servo. Standard servo arms are suitable for the ailerons.

RECEIVER BATTERY

A minimum 1,000mAh receiver battery such as Futaba NR4F 1500mAh 4.8V battery (FUTM1285) is required to power the radio system.

54 oz-in

[3.9 kg-cm]

50 oz-in

[3.6 kg-cm]

51 oz-in

[3.7 kg-cm]

1.7 oz [48g]

.9 oz

[26g]

.7 oz

[21g]

Speed

(sec./60° @ 4.8V)

.22 sec.

.14 sec.

.25 sec.

Ailerons only

AILERON SERVO WIRE EXTENSIONS:

Same as for the elevator and rudder servos, if using digital servos, be certain to use compatible servo extensions.

These are the order numbers for the aileron servo extensions for digital servos:

❏ (4) Hobbico Pro 6" [300mm] servo extensions for digital

Futaba servos (HCAM2701)

❏ (1) Hobbico Pro 12" [600mm] servo extension for digital

Futaba servos (HCAM2711)

❏ (3) Futaba AEC-16 dual servo connectors for digital

servos (FUTM4135)

These are the order numbers for the aileron servo extensions for standard servos:

❏ (4) Hobbico Command 6" [300mm] servo extensions for

standard Futaba servos (HCAM2000)

❏ (1) Hobbico Command 12" [600mm] servo extension for

standard Futaba servos (HCAM2100)

❏ (3) Futaba AEC-13 dual servo connector for standard

servos (FUTM4130)

If Y-harnesses are preferred inside each wing (instead of two 6" [300mm] servo extensions and one dual servo connector), these are the order numbers for Y-harnesses for digital servos:

❏ (2) Hobbico Pro Y-harnesses for digital Futaba servos

(HCAM2751)

❏ (1) Hobbico Pro 12" [600mm] servo extension for digital

Futaba servos (HCAM2711)

❏ (1) Futaba AEC-16 dual servo connector for digital servos

(FUTM4135)

ELEVATOR/RUDDER SERVO WIRE EXTENSIONS

If using Futaba servos for the elevators and rudder, Futaba 400mm (16") servo extensions may be used, but they are just long enough to reach the receiver. These are the extensions illustrated in the instruction manual. If for some reason you will be mounting your receiver farther forward, or if you prefer more economical servo extensions, Hobbico 24" [610mm] servo extensions are also suitable. If using digital servos, remember to use servo extensions suitable for digital servos.

These are the order numbers for the elevator and rudder servo extensions for digital servos:

❏ (3) Futaba 400mm (16") AEC-15 servo extensions for

digital servos (FUTM4145)

❏ (3) Hobbico Pro 24" [610mm] heavy-duty servo extensions

for digital Futaba servos (HCAM2721)

These are the order numbers for the elevator and rudder servo extensions for standard servos:

❏ (3) Futaba 400mm (16") AEC-11 servo extensions for

standard servos (FUTM3955)

❏ (3) Hobbico Command

for standard Futaba servos (HCAM2200)

™

24" [610mm] servo extensions

These are the Y-harnesses and extensions for standard servos:

❏ (2) Hobbico Command Y-harnesses for standard Futaba

servos (HCAM2500)

❏ (1) Hobbico Command 12" [600mm] servo extension for

standard Futaba servos (HCAM2100)

❏ (1) Futaba AEC-13 dual servo connector for standard

servos (FUTM4130)

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

BUILDING NOTES

Adhesives and Building Supplies

❏ 1/4" [6mm] R/C foam rubber (HCAQ1000) ❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro ❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007) ❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047) ❏ Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060) ❏ Silver solder w/ﬂ ux (STAR2000) ❏ Great Planes .050" Ballwrench for screws in aileron servo

hatches (GPMR8000)

❏#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105) ❏#11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211) ❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], ❏ Small metal ﬁ le

™

CA (GPMR6001)

Optional Supplies and Tools

❏ Great Planes 1/5-Scale Sport pilot:

GPMQ9015 Red, GPMQ9016 Blue, GPMQ9017 Yellow, GPMQ9018 Unpainted

❏ Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) ❏ 8mm prop reamer (for propellers and included spinner –

GPMQ5007)

❏ Tap handle (GPMR8120) ❏ Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485) ❏ 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035) ❏ R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007) ❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780) ❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039) ❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060) ❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055) ❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056) ❏ Dead Center

™

Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)

❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up) ❏ Kevlar thread (for horizontal stabilizer alignment) ❏ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510) ❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel ❏ Hobby Heat

™

micro torch (HCAR0755)

Covering Tools

The 21st Century covering iron and protective cover sock are recommended for tightening the covering or removing any wrinkles.

❏ 21

Century® sealing iron (COVR2700)

❏ 21

Century iron cover (COVR2702)

• The Reactor .60 biplane ARF is factory-covered with

Top Flite® MonoKote® ﬁ lm. Should repairs ever be required, MonoKote can be patched with additional MonoKote purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls, but some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote is applied with a model airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a regular iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full instructions for application. Following are the colors used on this model and order numbers for six foot rolls.

White: TOPQ0204 Orange: TOPQ0202 Metallic Blue: TOPQ0402 Aluminum: TOPQ0205

• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust

angles have been factory-built into this model. However, some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no effect on the way your model will ﬂ y, please expect slight deviations between your model and the published values.

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

Replacement parts for the Great Planes Reactor .60 bipe ARF are available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most economical service can be provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.

To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site at www.greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy” and follow the instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian or International dealer.

Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721, but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa® or MasterCard® number and expiration date for payment.

Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:

Hobby Services

3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign IL 61822

Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or personal check only; no C.O.D.

If additional assistance is required for any reason contact Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes. com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.

REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST

GPMA3340 ..... Fuselage

GPMA3341 ..... Top Wing

GPMA3342 ..... Bottom Wing

GPMA3343 ..... Horizontal Stabilizer

GPMA3344 ..... Rudder

GPMA3345 ..... Cowl

GPMA3346 ..... Landing Gear

GPMA3347 ..... Wheelpants

GPMA3348 ..... Canopy

GPMA3349 ..... Struts

GPMA3350 ..... Decals

GPMA3351 ..... Batter y Hatch

GPMA3352 ..... Fuel Tank

NOTE: Full-size plans are not available. You can download a copy of this manual at www.greatplanes.com.

KIT CONTENTS

KIT INSPECTION

Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list.

Great Planes Product Support:

3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5

Fax: (217) 398-7721

E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com

1. Cowl

2. Fuselage

3. Canopy

4. Tailwheel Assembly

5. Rudder

6. Horizontal Stab

7. Wing Brace

8. Fuel Tank

9. Main Landing Gear

10. Wheel Pants 7

11. Main Wheels

12. Spinner

13. Wing Struts

14. Bottom Wing

15. Top Wing

PREPARATION

❏ 1. Use a covering iron with a cover sock to tighten the

covering or remove any wrinkles found on parts of the model. Note: When moving the iron over trim pieces that are sharply pointed, be certain to move the iron away from the point, not toward it.

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE

Test-Mount the Elevator

and Rudder Servos

It will be easier to cut the covering from the servo mounts and drill the servo mounting screws now, before the horizontal stabilizer is glued into position.

❏ 2. Lay three or four

paper towels over each other and cut the stack into small squares. These small paper towel squares, dampened with denatured alcohol, will come in handy for epoxy cleanup and other general cleanup throughout assembly.

❏ 1. If using Futaba S9650 servos, cut the side-mount tabs

from each servo using a razor saw—don’t try to simply score the tabs with a knife thinking they can be broken off—this will probably damage the case. Use a small ﬁ le or sandpaper to sand the cut corners smooth and even.

LEFT ELEVATOR

SERVO OPENING

RIGHT ELEVATOR SERVO OPENING

RUDDER

SERVO OPENING

❏ 2. Test ﬁ t the servos in the servo openings in the fuselage.

If using standard-size servos that don’t ﬁ t in the openings, use a ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen and the plywood servo cutout template as a guide to mark larger openings. Cut the enlarged openings along the lines you marked.

Mount the Horizontal Stabilizer (Stab)

❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue both 6 x 25mm bottom wing

dowels into the bottom wing with 1/4" [6mm] protruding.

❏ 2. If you haven’t yet done so, make sure the wrinkles have

been removed from the covering on the horizontal stabilizer (stab) and around the stab openings on both sides of the fuselage. (This will be a little more difﬁ cult to do after the stab

is glued in.)

❏ 3. Using the screw holes in the servos as a guide, drill

1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the fuselage for mounting all three servos.

❏ 4. Temporarily mount the servos with the mounting screws

that came with the servos. Remove the screws and add a few small drops of thin CA to each hole. This important procedure will harden the “threads” cut by the screws to keep your servos securely mounted.

❏ 3. Temporarily bolt the bottom wing to the fuselage with

the 1/4-20 x 2" [51mm] nylon wing bolts.

Before using glue, make a “trial run” of mounting the stab by performing steps 3 through 7.

AA'

A = A'

❏ 4. Slide the stab into the fuselage. Center the trailing edge

(TE) in the fuselage by taking accurate measurements on both sides.

❏ 5. Once the trailing edge is centered, stick pins into the

trailing edge tightly against both sides of the fuselage. This will keep the trailing edge centered while centering the leading edge in the next step.

B = B'

❏ 7. Fold a piece of masking tape over the other end of the

string end and mark a line on it. Pull the string to the tip of one side of the stab. Slide the tape along the string until the line on the tape aligns with the tip. Swing the string over to the same spot on the other side of the stab. If the mark on the tape doesn’t align, rotate the stab and slide the tape until both sides are the same and the stab is aligned.

One more alignment procedure to go before gluing…

❏ 6. Push another pin through the top of the fuselage at the

small mark indicating centerline on the ﬁ rewall. Tie a small loop in one end of an approximately 50" [1.25m] piece of non-elastic string such as K&S Kevlar line or Kevlar ﬁ shing line. Loop the string over the pin.

❏ 8. Standing about 6’ [2m] behind the model, view the

alignment of the stab and wing. If the stab is not parallel with the wing, place incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the stab until you can get it parallel with the wing.

The next few steps may get messy, so make sure you have your denatured alcohol and plenty of paper towel squares ready.

❏ 9. Now that you’ve practiced the stab alignment procedure,

remove the stab from the fuselage. Liberally apply 30-minute epoxy all the way around the exposed balsa on the right side of the stab up to the covering.

❏ 10. Slide the stab into position, then partially out the other

side, exposing the uncovered balsa on the other side of the stab. Apply more epoxy around the top and bottom of the stab, then slide it back into place. Use your ﬁ nger or a piece of balsa or cardstock to thoroughly work epoxy back into the joint all the way around the top and bottom on both sides. Reinsert the pins into the trailing edge next to the fuselage. Use your paper towel squares to wipe away excess epoxy and use the pin and string and any weight that may have been necessary to align the stab with the wing. Do not disturb the model until the epoxy has hardened.

❏ 3. Join the matching elevator to the stab and take out the

T-pins. Make sure there is a small hinge gap—just enough to see light through or to slip a piece of paper through.

❏ 4. Add eight to ten drops of thin CA to the top and bottom

of each hinge allowing a few seconds between drops for the CA to soak in so it doesn’t run into the hinge gap.

❏ 5. Hinge the other elevator the same way, but don’t hinge

the rudder yet.

Hinge the Elevators and Rudders

1" [25mm]

CA HINGE

❏ 1. Cut ten 1" x 1" [25 x 25mm] CA hinges from the included

CA hinge strip. Snip off the corners so they go in easier.

1" [25mm]

❏ 6. Without using any glue, test ﬁ t the tail wheel assembly into

the fuselage, then join the rudder with four hinges with pins. Make any adjustments necessary so everything ﬁ ts well.

❏ 2. Stick a pin through the middle of three hinges. Without

glue, ﬁ t the hinges into the hinge slots in one side of the stab. (The T-pins will keep the hinges centered.)

❏ 7. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the “arm” portion of

the tail gear wire (where it goes into the rudder) so glue will adhere. Add a drop of oil to both ends of the tail gear bearing so glue will not get in.

Hook Up the Elevator and Rudder

❏ 1. Connect your servo extensions to the rudder and elevator

servos. Secure the connectors with 1-1/2" [38mm] pieces of heat shrink tubing cut from the 3" [76mm] tubing supplied. Use a heat gun or a hobby torch to shrink the tubing.

Refer to these photos while hooking up the elevator and rudder servos.

❏ 8. Use a small metal ruler or straightedge to work

30-minute epoxy down into the slot in the fuselage for the tail gear bearing. Apply epoxy to the bearing, then ﬁ t it into the slot. Wipe away excess epoxy.

❏ 9. Apply epoxy in the hole in the rudder for the tail gear

wire and apply epoxy to the arm. Make sure the rudder hinges are in place, then join the rudder to the fuselage with the hinges. Wipe away any excess epoxy.

❏ 10. Remove the pins from the hinges and permanently

join the rudder to the fuselage by gluing in the hinges with thin CA.

❏ 2. Mount the elevator and rudder servos in the fuselage

using the screws that came with them.

We’re going to instruct you to center the servos and adjust the pushrods now, but this could be done later during ﬁ nal setup if you prefer.

❏ 3. Temporarily connect the servos to your receiver with a

battery and a switch so you can move the servos with your transmitter. Turn on your transmitter and make sure the trims are centered and turn on the receiver.

90˚ 90˚

YES

CUT OFF THE

UNUSED ARMS

GREAT PLANES

LARGE-SCALE ARM

❏ 4. Mount your servo arms to the servos—if using the

recommended Great Planes large-scale servo arms, position the square plastic inserts so the servo arms will be 90-degrees to the servo. If using the standard servo arms that came with your servos, ﬁ nd the arm that will be 90-degrees to the servo and cut off the remaining unused arms.

❏ 5. Read the following Expert Tip about how to solder

pushrods, then make the pushrods and connect the rudder and elevator with the pushrods and control horns as shown in the photos. IMPORTANT: Be certain you are soldering the solder clevises onto the non-threaded end of the pushrods and threading the threaded clevises onto the threaded end of the pushrods. Sometimes modelers mistake unthreaded clevises for threaded clevises. Note: Make sure the horns are-mounted over the hardwood plates built into each control surface and are positioned as thown in the sketch at step 6. And drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the #2 x 1/2" [12.7mm] Phillips horn mounting screws. Don’t forget the important procedure of installing, then removing the screws and hardening the holes with thin CA.

HOW TO SOLDER

❏ A. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to thoroughly

clean the pushrod. Roughen the end of the pushrod with coarse sandpaper where it is to be soldered.

❏ B. Apply a few drops of soldering ﬂ ux to the end of

the pushrod, then use a soldering iron or a torch to heat it. “Tin” the heated area with silver solder (Stay Brite, STAR2000) by applying the solder to the end. The heat of the pushrod should melt the solder—not the ﬂ ame of the torch or soldering iron—thus allowing the solder to ﬂ ow. The end of the wire should be coated with solder all the way around.

❏ C. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod. Add

another drop of ﬂ ux, then heat and add solder. The same as before, the heat of the parts being soldered should melt the solder, thus allowing it to ﬂ ow. Allow the joint to cool naturally without disturbing. Avoid excess blobs, but make certain the joint is thoroughly soldered. The solder should be shiny, not rough. If necessary, reheat the joint and allow to cool.

❏ D. Immediately after the solder has solidiﬁ ed, but while

it is still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe off the ﬂ ux before it hardens. Important: After the joint cools, coat with oil to prevent rust. Note: Do not use the acid ﬂ ux that comes with silver solder for electrical soldering.

This is what a properly soldered clevis looks like—shiny solder with good ﬂ ow, no blobs, ﬂ ux removed.

“JAM” NUT

SILICONE RETAINER

❏ 6. After all the pushrods have been made and the elevator

and rudder connected, tighten the 4-40 “jam” nuts to the threaded clevises and install silicone retainers on all the clevises.

Mount the Main Landing Gear

❏ 1. Use a 1/2" wrench and a 7/32" wrench (or crescent

wrenches) to fasten a 5/32" x 1-1/4" [4mm x 32mm] bolt-on axle to each ﬁ berglass main landing gear leg with a 5/16"-24 lock nut.

❏ 2. Use a small metal ﬁ le or a rotary tool with a reinforced

cutoff wheel to grind a ﬂ at spot 1/8" [3.2mm] from the end of both axles.

5/32" [4mm] WHEEL COLLAR AND 6-32 SET SCREW

❏ 4. Mount the main landing gear to the fuselage with six

4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS and #4 lock washers and ﬂ at washers—use a drop or two of threadlocker on the threads of the screws.

Mount the Motor

If mounting a glow engine,

skip to Mount the Engine on page 16.

Refer to this photo for steps 1 and 2.

❏ 3. Mount the wheels to the axles with 5/32" [4mm] wheel

collars and 6-32 set screws (and a drop of threadlocker)— before tightening the set screws, test ﬁ t the pant to the gear to get the wheel centered. Mount the pants to each gear with 4-40 x 1/2" [12.7mm] Phillips screws, #4 lock washers and ﬂ at washers (and threadlocker).

❏ 1. Mount your motor to the motor mount (not included) with

three 3 x 10mm SHCS, 3mm lock washers and ﬂ at washers (not included)—and don’t forget to use threadlocker on the threads. Mount the motor mount to the ﬁ rewall with four 8-32 x 1/2" [12.7mm] SHCS and #8 lock washers.

❏ 2. Move the front plate of the mount as far back as it will

go, add some threadlocker to the screw, then tighten the eight 6-32 screws that hold the plates together. Using the back plate of the spinner as a reference for measurement, this should set the front of the propeller adapter on the motor 5-5/8" [143mm] from the ﬁ rewall.

BATTERY

MOUNT

PLATE

7" [178mm]

“HOOK” SIDE

5-1/2" [140mm]

“LOOP” SIDE

2" [51mm] OVERLAP

❏ 4. Test ﬁ t the battery and the mounting plate in the

fuselage—note that the tabs in the front of the mounting plate key into the notches in the back of the ﬁ rewall and that the sides of the mounting plate are locked into the former near the rear. (For clarity in the photo on the top, the battery strap has been removed so you can see how the battery plate ﬁ ts.)

❏ 3. Prepare the plywood battery mounting plate by

determining exactly how you will be mounting your battery pack—if using the batteries recommended, you can do it as illustrated, or use this as a guide for mounting the batteries your own way. Cut strips of the softer, “loop” side of a 1" x 6" [25.4 x 152mm] Great Planes Velcro strip (GPMQ4480, not included) and stick them to the bottom of your batteries. Stick strips of the rougher, “hook” side to the mounting plate. Make a battery strap from the included hook-and-loop strap by cutting a 5-1/2" [140mm] piece of the loop side and a 7" [178mm] piece of the hook side. Test ﬁ t the battery to the plate with the strap. Suggestion: Hold the two battery packs together with a few small strips of Velcro or double-sided foam tape.

❏ 5. Once satisﬁ ed with the mounting method and battery

placement, remove the battery and mounting plate. Glue the strap to the bottom of the battery mounting plate (so it cannot fall out when the batteries are removed), and securely glue the battery mounting plate into position.

ESC CUTOUT

(REMOVE)

❏ 6. Remove the ESC cutout in the ﬁ rewall by carefully

cutting across the tabs around the edges with a hobby knife.

❏ 7. Glue together the plywood ESC mount and glue the

plywood screw doublers to the bottom of the mount. Mount the ESC to the mount with three #4 x 1/2" [12.7mm] screws and #4 ﬂ at washers.

Mount the Engine

(A 4-stroke is shown in the photos, but the procedure for a 2-stroke is the same.)

❏ 1. Temporarily mount the included Great Planes .60-1.20

adjustable motor mount to the ﬁ rewall with four 8-32 x 1" [25.4mm] SHCS and #8 ﬂ at washers and lock washers, but don’t tighten the bolts all the way yet.

❏ 8. Securely glue the ESC mount to the ﬁ rewall. Connect

the motor wires to the motor.

IMPORTANT: Before connecting your batteries to power up the motor in the following step, be certain NOT to have a propeller mounted to the motor and read the Battery Precautions on page 28.

❏ 9. Temporarily connect your receiver, on/off switch,

receiver battery and motor batteries so you can power the motor to make sure it is hooked up correctly. Turn on the radio and use the throttle stick on your transmitter to make sure the motor turns in the correct direction (counter-clockwise when viewed from the front). If the motor does not turn the correct direction, switch any two motor and ESC wires with each other to reverse the direction. Use nylon tie wraps or electrical tape to secure all the wires and make certain they will not rub on the motor or motor shaft.

❏ 2. Place your engine on the mount and adjust the spacing

to ﬁ t the engine. Now tighten the bolts. Use a small clamp to hold the engine to the mount so the front of the drive washer (or the back plate of your spinner) will be 5-5/8" [143mm] from the ﬁ rewall.

❏ 3. Use a Great Planes Dead-Center Hole Locator or

another method to mark the locations of the engine mounting bolts onto the engine mount.

❏ 4. For perfection, if you have access to a drill press,

remove the mount halves and drill #29 (.135" [3.4mm]) holes at the marks. If a drill press is not available, the holes may be drilled while the mount is fastened to the ﬁ rewall.

❏ 5. Use an 8-32 tap to cut threads into the holes—this is

easily and quickly done holding the mount halves in your hand with your tap chucked in a hand drill at low speed.

O.S. .61FX

O.S. FS91 II, O.S. FS81

O.S. FS91 II PUMP

❏ 6. Before-mounting the engine, drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes

through the ﬁ rewall at the crossmarks that align with the carburetor arm on your throttle as indicated in the sketch. If using a different engine, you may have to mark and drill the hole in a different location.

❏ 7. Bolt the engine to the engine mount with for 8-32 x 1"

[25.4mm] SHCS and #8 lock washers.

Install the Fuel Tank

❏ 3. Glue both plywood fuel tank rings to the back of the

ﬁ rewall centered on the opening.

HOOK RUBBER

BANDS HERE

FUEL TANK HOLDER

❏ 1. Assemble the stopper with the aluminum tubes, fuel

lines and clunks as shown. Bend the long tube so it will be at the top of the tank and cut the fuel lines so the clunks cannot contact the back of the tank—otherwise they could get stuck. Note that one of the lines will be used for fueling and defueling and the other line will be the pickup line that goes to the carburetor. The bent tube will be connected to the vent/ pressure line that will go to the pressure tap on the mufﬂ er.

❏ 2. Write “BOTTOM” on either of the two narrower surfaces

of the tank so you will know which way to install it after installing the stopper assembly. Insert the stopper so the vent tube will be at the top of the tank, then tighten the screw to squish the stopper and seal the tank. Shake the tank to make sure the fuel lines are not too long and the clunks are able to ﬂ op around. If necessary, remove the stopper and shorten the lines.

❏ 4. Install the fuel tank and hold it in place with a couple of

rubber bands hooked around the former where shown in the sketch. Test-ﬁ t, then glue the plywood fuel tank holder into position at the back of the tank as shown.

Hook Up the Throttle

Refer to these photos and sketches while hooking up the throttle.

GUIDE TUBE SUPPORTS

SCREW-LOCK

PUSHROD

CONNECTOR

4-40 x 1/8" [3.2mm] SHCS

(USE THREADLOCKER)

NYLON

RETAINER

2-56 PUSHROD

❏ 1. Glue in the plywood throttle servo tray and hook up

the throttle using the 36" [914mm] pushrod cut to length with a gray, plastic guide tube. Use a clevis on the carburetor end and a screw-lock connector on the servo end as shown. Use the plywood guide tube supports to anchor the throttle guide tube as necessary.

❏ 2. Once you have the fuel tank mounted and the throttle

hooked up, place the fuselage hatch in the hatch opening in the bottom of the fuselage. Optional: The back of the fuel tank hatch and the “retaining lip” in the fuselage for the hatch have been fuelproofed, but if you would like to completely seal off the area, cut the hatch seal template from page 35 and use spray adhesive to mount it to the backing on a sheet of orange or clear MonoKote (not included). Cut out the MonoKote, then remove the backing and iron the MonoKote over the hatch for a fuelproof seal.

Mount the Cowl

On models such as the Reactor where portions of the engine and/or mufﬂ er protrude from the cowl, cutting holes for the engine and mufﬂ er can be a “catch-22” situation. You can’t know exactly where to cut holes for the engine and mufﬂ er until the cowl is mounted, but the cowl can’t be mounted until these holes are cut. In some cases templates may be used, but on models where the cutouts are over contoured, parts of the cowl templates may not work well. So on models like this, the best way is to “cut and ﬁ t” as illustrated:

❏ 1. Take an estimated measurement of where the engine

head will protrude from the cowl. In this case the front of the cutout will be approximately 4-1/2" [115mm] from the back of the cowl.

❏ 2. According to the measurement, mark the location on

the cowl.

❏ 4. Continue to ﬁ t, mark and cut the cowl as necessary until

you can get it at least partially into position. As you proceed, try to keep the cutout as small as possible. Later, once the cowl has been mounted to the fuselage, the cutout will be trimmed to perfection.

❏ 3. Using a powered rotary tool with a small cutting bit,

make the ﬁ rst cut in the cowl much smaller and slightly farther aft than you know will be required, but good enough for a starting point. Try ﬁ tting the cowl over the engine and mark where the cut needs to be enlarged. In the photo, the cowl isn’t very close to ﬁ tting, but it’s a start.

❏ 5. Once you can get the cowl to ﬁ t onto the fuselage over

the engine, set the cowl aside. Use a ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen to draw a line on both sides of the fuselage aligned with the front of the ﬁ rewall. Mark two points on both sides of the fuselage 1/8" [3.2mm] aft of the lines for the cowl mounting screw holes.

❏ 6. Make four templates with holes from thin cardstock to be

used for marking the screw holes once the cowl is in position. Tape the templates to the fuselage with the holes in the templates aligned over the marks made in the previous step.

❏ 7. Fit the cowl into position. Temporarily ﬁ t the spinner onto

the engine so the cowl can be accurately aligned with it.

❏ 10. Remove the cardstock templates. Reposition the cowl

and spinner. Holding the cowl in position, use the holes in the cowl as a guide for drilling four 3/32" [2.4mm] holes into the fuselage for the mounting screws.

❏ 11. Enlarge the holes in the cowl only with a 1/8" [3.2mm]

drill. Test mount the cowl with four #4 x 1/2" [12.7mm] screws and #4 washers. Make any adjustments necessary for a good ﬁ t. If necessary, the holes may be slightly elongated or enlarged to realign the cowl for perfecting the ﬁ t.

❏ 8. Centering the cowl on the spinner with a 1/8" [3.2mm]

space in between, use a ﬁ ne point felt-tip pen to mark each screw hole in the template onto the cowl.

❏ 9. Remove the cowl. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the

cowl at each mark.

❏ 12. Once satisﬁ ed with the ﬁ t of the cowl, glue the four

thin plywood cowl reinforcements to the inside of the cowl centered over each hole. Don’t forget to harden the screw holes in the fuselage with thin CA.

❏ 13. Same as when cutting holes for the engine, when

cutting holes for the mufﬂ er, start small, test-ﬁ t the cowl, then continue to mark, cut and ﬁ t the cowl as necessary until you can get it into position. In the case of the O.S. .91 4-stroke with the 90-degree exhaust header, you can mount the cowl with the header pipe already mounted to the engine, then install the mufﬂ er with the stock header pipe after mounting the cowl.

❏ 14. Cut any other holes in the cowl necessary for the

needle valve, engine cooling, glow plug, etc. For the needle valve, it is convenient to use a paper template.

❏ 15. If you haven’t already done so (and if using a glow

engine), connect the fuel lines—there should be one line that connects the vent (on the top of the tank) to the pressure ﬁ tting on the mufﬂ er, another line connecting the tank to the carburetor and a third line for fueling/defueling. Close the fueling line (which can be reached through the bottom of the cowl for fueling and defueling) with an included aluminum fuel line plug.

Here’s a photo of the ﬁ nished cowl with all necessary cuts.

ASSEMBLE THE WINGS

Mount the Aileron Servos

❏ 2. Hold two servo mounting blocks to one of the aileron

servos with pieces of thin cardstock between each block and the servo and under the servo—if using standard-size servos use two of the larger blocks, if using smaller servos like the 3102s use one of the smaller mounting blocks on the end of the servo that has the wire coming out of it. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the blocks for the mounting screws.

❏ 3. Mount the servo to the blocks with the screws that came

with the servos. Same as has been done all along, remove the screws, add a few drops of thin CA to each screw hole, allow to harden, and then re-mount the servos to the blocks.

❏ 4. Mount the remaining three servos to the blocks the

same way.

❏ 1. The same as was done for the rudder and elevator

servos, temporarily connect your aileron servos to your receiver and power the system up. With the aileron trim centered, ﬁ nd the servo arms that will be 90° to each servo and cut off the unused arms. Mount the arms to the servos.

❏ 5. Use 30-minute epoxy to securely glue the servo blocks to

the aileron hatches with the servo arms centered in the slots. The best way is to apply epoxy to the bottom of each block and let it soak in for a few minutes. Then reapply another coat. Also apply a ﬁ lm of epoxy to the hatches where the blocks go, and then glue the blocks into position. Use clamps or weights to hold the blocks in place until the epoxy has hardened.

Refer to this photo while hooking up the ailerons.

❏ 7. Mount the hatches in the wing with #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]

button-head screws. This will require a .050" ballwrench, as mentioned in the front of this manual.

❏ 8. The same as was done for the elevators and rudder,

make the pushrods and connect the bottom ailerons to the servos using the hardware shown. Don’t forget to use thin CA to harden the screw holes for the horn mounting screws and the hatch screws.

❏ 6. If using servo extensions (instead of Y-harnesses),

connect the extensions to the servo wires and secure the connections with 1-1/2" [38mm] pieces of heat shrink tubing. Use the string in the bottom wing to pull an extension into each servo opening out through the holes in the top (top photo). If using Y-harnesses, tape each end of the string to the edge of the servo hatch (middle photo), then lift the string up through one of the holes in the top of the middle of the wing. Cut the string in half, tie each end to the ends of the Y-harness and pull them through (bottom photo). Hint: After tying the knot in the string around the connector, add a drop of thin CA to the knot so it cannot come untied when you are pulling the connectors down through the wings.

❏ 9. Install the servo extension wires, mount the aileron servos

and make the pushrods for the top wing the same way.

Mount the Wings

NOTE: Before using glue, read the entire wing mounting

procedure so you will have everything ready and understand how to proceed.

❏ 1. Cut the covering from the holes in the eight plywood

wing strut tabs. Tap a 4-40 blind nut into one side of each tab. Add a few drops of thin CA around each blind nut and let it soak in so the blind nuts will not fall out.

❏ 2. With the blind nuts on the tabs toward the middle of the

wing, test ﬁ t four tabs into the slots in the bottom wing to make sure they all ﬁ t. Make any adjustments necessary so they go all the way down.

❏ 3. Remove the tabs. Apply 30-minute epoxy in the slots

in the wing and to the tabs. Push the tabs into the slots. Wipe away any excess epoxy that squeezes out. Proceed immediately to the next step.

1/16"

[2mm]

WING BOLT PLATE

REMOVE THE COVERING

7/16"

[11.1mm]

3/16"

[4.8mm]

❏ 5. Cut the covering from one side of the plywood wing

bolt plate as shown.

❏ 6. Bolt the bottom wing to the fuselage with the wing bolt

plate. Use a ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen to mark the outline of the wing bolt plate onto the bottom of the wing.

❏ 4. Temporarily fasten the bottom of the wing struts to

the tabs with four 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Phillips screws and #4 ﬂ at washers. Push the wing struts all the way down to the wing to make sure the tabs are set correctly. Allow the epoxy to harden.

❏ 7. Cut the covering from the bottom of the wing 1/16"

[1.6mm] inside the line you marked and 1/16" [1.6mm] ahead of the wing trailing edge. Wipe away excess ink from the lines you drew with a few of your paper towel squares and denatured alcohol.

❏ 8. Apply a thin coat of epoxy to the bottom of the wing

bolt plate and the bottom wing. Bolt the wing to the fuselage. Wipe away excess epoxy and allow to harden.

❏ 10. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the top wing dowels into

the top wing. Wipe away any excess epoxy, then ﬁ t the wing brace over the dowels while the epoxy is hardening. Use care not to inadvertently glue the wing brace to the dowels or the wing.

❏ 9. Test ﬁ t both 6mm x 30mm hardwood top wing dowels

into the holes in the bottom of the top wing, then test ﬁ t the ﬁ berglass wing brace to the wing over the dowels. Make any adjustments necessary for a good ﬁ t. Note: If you ﬁ nd that the dowels ﬁ t too tightly into the brace, the holes in the brace may be “cleaned out” with a 15/64" [6mm] drill.

❏ 11. Temporarily fasten the remaining four wing strut tabs

to the top of both wing struts. Without using any glue, ﬁ t the wing brace into the fuselage, then key the top wing down into the wing brace and the strut tabs. Make any adjustments necessary for a good ﬁ t.

❏ 12. Once satisﬁ ed with the ﬁ t, remove the top wing from

the assembly and take the strut tabs off the struts. Use coarse sandpaper to thoroughly roughen the ﬁ berglass wing brace where it goes into the fuselage and use 30-minute epoxy to glue it into position. Immediately proceed to the next step.

❏ 13. Fit the wing strut tabs into the top wing with 30-minute

epoxy. Wipe off any excess epoxy that squeezes out, then ﬁ t the top wing to the wing brace and fasten the tops of the wing struts to the strut tabs with four 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws. Bolt the top wing to the wing brace with a 6-32 x 1-1/2" [38mm] SHCS and a #6 lock washer and ﬂ at washer. Make sure all of the parts ﬁ t together well and do not disturb the model until the epoxy has hardened.

Mark the Balance Point (C.G.)

The balance point (C.G.) is to be marked on the bottom of the top wing. It will be easier to do this now, beforemounting the wing to the fuselage. This is where the model will be balanced during ﬁ nal setup later.

RECOMMENDED STARTING BALANCE POINT

5-1/4" [133mm] FROM THE LEADING EDGE

OF THE MIDDLE OF THE TOP WING

5-1/4"

[133mm]

C.G. RANGE

TEMPLATE

MAXIMUM FORWARD

BALANCE LIMIT

MAXIMUM AFT

BALANCE LIMIT

4.5" [114mm]

5.25" [133mm]

6" [152mm]

FORWARD

RECOMMENDED BALANCE POINT

(5-1/4" [133mm]

FROM THE LE OF

THE MIDDLE OF THE TOP WING)

The recommended C.G. is 5-1/4" [133mm] from the leading edge of the middle of the top wing. This is where you should balance the model for the ﬁ rst ﬂ ights. Later, you may experiment by shifting the C.G. up to 3/4" [19mm] forward or 3/4" [19mm] back to change the ﬂ ying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward will improve the smoothness and stability, but the model will then be less aerobatic (which may be ﬁ ne for less-experienced pilots). Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more maneuverable and aerobatic for experienced pilots. In any case, start at the recommended balance point and do not at any time balance the model outside the speciﬁ ed range.

❏ 1. After the epoxy from mounting the top wing has hardened,

remove the top wing from the model. Use a ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen to mark short lines directly on the bottom of the top wing next to the lines on both sides of the plywood C.G. template. The middle line is the recommended, starting balance point and the forward and aft lines note the limits of the forward and aft balance range.

❏ 2. Use your ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen and a straightedge to

draw approximately 7" [178mm] lines over the short lines you marked in the previous step. Note: After balancing the model later, the lines will easily wash off with a few paper towel squares dampened with denatured alcohol, or you may leave the balance lines on the wing for future reference.

❏ 3. The included plywood balance stand will assist you

in balancing the model and determining how much (if any) additional lead ballast may be required to achieve the correct C.G. However, if you prefer not to use the stand and would rather just balance the model with your ﬁ ngertips, apply thin (1/16" [1.6mm]) strips of tape over the lines so you will be able to feel them when balancing the model later.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

Mount the Canopy

❏ 1. If installing a pilot, trim the pilot as necessary to ﬁ t

under the canopy and between the fuselage sides. Cut the covering from the cockpit ﬂ oor so the pilot can be glued directly to bare wood.

❏ 2. Securely glue the pilot into position. Cut the instrument

panel decal from the decal sheet and place it on the instrument panel in the cockpit.

Final Radio Installation

Refer to this photo while ﬁ nishing the radio installation.

❏ 1. Wrap the receiver and receiver battery in 1/4" [6.4mm] R/C

foam. Mount the battery and receiver to the plywood receiver/ battery tray inside the fuselage with straps made from the included hook-and-loop strips. If using a 2.4GHz receiver that has short antennas, glue short lengths of small plastic tubing (like the type found on spray cans of compressed air) to the inside of the fuse sides for properly routing the antennas. If using a 72 MHz receiver with a long antenna wire, be certain to guide the antenna down through the fuse.

❏ 2. Mount the on/off switch and a charge jack to the

fuselage side opposite the mufﬂ er so they will not get coated with engine exhaust. Note that there are already cutouts for a Futaba switch and an Ernst charge receptacle, so all that has to be done is cut away the covering. If using a different switch or charge receptacle, or if you prefer to mount your Futaba switch and Ernst charge receptacle in a different location, use the mounting plates that came with them as templates to cut new mounting holes where preferred.

❏ 3. Attach the canopy. If permanently gluing on the

canopy, apply R/C 56 canopy glue and use masking tape to temporarily hold the canopy in place until the glue is dry. If using the included #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] button-head screws, temporarily tape the canopy to the fuselage. Drill four 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the canopy and fuselage. Remove the canopy, enlarge the holes in the canopy with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill, and then mount the canopy with the screws.

❏ 3. Connect the rudder and elevator servo wires to the

receiver. Connect a dual servo connector to the aileron channel in the receiver, then connect a 12" [305mm] servo extension to the dual extension and guide it through the fuselage out the ﬁ berglass wing brace for the ailerons in the top wing. The remaining, open port in the dual extension will be for the aileron servo wire coming from the bottom wing, so all four aileron servos will be connected to one channel.

Now that the model is fully assembled and all of the external systems/components have been installed, access to the inside of the model will probably no longer be necessary. If you plan to transport your Reactor with the wings mounted, and if you are ready to install the wings at this time, go ahead and do so. IMPORTANT: Whether you choose to mount the wings now, or later when you get to the ﬂ ying ﬁ eld, be certain to use threadlocker on the eight screws that secure the wing struts to the tabs and to the single screw that holds the top wing to the middle brace. Be sure to use a #4 lock washer and a #4 ﬂ at washer on each screw.

There are two ways to connect multiple battery packs: In Series and in Parallel.

These are two 3200mAh batteries (one 11.1V and the other 7.4V). When joined in SERIES, the result will be a 18.5V, 3200 mAh battery.

11.1V (3-Cell) GPMP0613

7.4V (2-Cell) GPMP0613

It’s okay to connect batteries with different voltages in series to achieve the new, desired voltage.

OKAY

This is a SERIES battery adapter (GPMM3143) that connects two batteries in series.

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Apply the Decals

1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from the sheet.

2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily ﬁ ngerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer type, submersing them in soap & water allows accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.

3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.

4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the decals the same way.

❏ 1. Connecting batteries in “Series” means to connect

the +’s to the –’s and the –’s to the +’s. This combines the battery’s Voltages, but the capacity remains the same. This is the recommended setup for the Reactor Bipe (even though both batteries will be two 11.1V, 3200mAh).

These two 1500mAh batteries (both 11.1V) are being joined in PARALLEL. The result will be one 11.1V, 3000mAh battery.

OKAY

11.1V (3-Cell) GPMP0613

This is a PARALLEL battery adapter (GPMM3142) that connects two batteries in parallel.

❏ 2. Connecting batteries in “Parallel” means to connect

the +’s to the +’s and the -’s to the -’s. This combines the battery’s capacities, but the Voltage remains the same.

LiPo Battery Precautions

For modelers who will be powering their Reactor with an electric motor:

Charged motor batteries will be required before you can power the motor to make certain it is turning the correct direction and that your throttle is set up correctly. Before charging and connecting your batteries to the ESC in the plane, read the following information.

IMPORTANT: If using multiple battery packs that are connected with an adapter, never charge the batteries together through the adapter. Always charge each battery pack separately. Charge each battery pack separately, then read the following precautions on how to connect multiple packs for setting up the ESC or ﬂ ying the model:

NO!!

NEVER connect battery packs with different Voltages in Parallel–only combine in Series. Otherwise, the batteries

will try to “equalize” with the larger one trying to “charge” the smaller one, thus causing heat and likely a ﬁ re.

Set the Control Throws

NO!!

Also NEVER connect battery packs with different capacities in Series or in Parallel.

Check the Control Directions

❏ 1. If you have not yet done so, mount the wings and

connect the aileron servo wires to the receiver. At this time it is still advisable to NOT have the propeller mounted.

❏ 2. The servos were already centered during assembly, but

now is a good time to do a ﬁ nal check. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 3. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the

control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.

To ensure a successful ﬁ rst ﬂ ight, set up your Reactor .60 biplane according to the control throws provided on page 31. The throws have been determined through ﬂ ight testing and record-keeping allowing the model to perform in the manner in which it was intended. If, after you have become accustomed to the way the Reactor ﬂ ies, you would like to change the throws to suit your taste, that is ﬁ ne. However, too much control throw could make the model too responsive and difﬁ cult to control, so remember, “more is not always better.”

❏ 1. Use a box or something similar to prop up the bottom

of the fuselage so the horizontal stabilizer and wings will be level.

Measure the high rate elevator throw ﬁ rst…

4-CHANNEL RADIO SET UP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

RIGHT AILERON

RUDDER

MOVES

RIGHT

FULL

THROTTLE

❏ 4. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor

(or the electric motor) respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.

MOVES UP LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

ELEVATOR

MOVES DOWN

❏ 2. Hold a ruler vertically on your workbench against

the widest part (front-to-back) of the trailing edge of one of the elevators.

❏ 3. Use the transmitter to move the elevators up and move

the ruler forward so it will remain contacting the trailing edge. The distance the elevator moves up from center is the “up” elevator throw. Measure the down elevator throw the same way.

Proper Pushrod Hookup

Avoiding Flutter, Maximizing Servo Output Torque

When connecting pushrods and setting up your control throws, it is critically important to use proper pushrod geometry — that is the distance from the pushrod on the servo arm to the center of the output shaft (servo arm offset) compared to the distance from the pushrod on the control horn to the pivot point (control horn offset).

SERVO ARM

OFFSET

Pivot point

Note: Your control horn may vary.

CONTROL

HORN OFFSET

PREFERRED

PUSHROD HOOKUP

Here is an optimum pushrod setup—the pushrod is “close in” on the servo arm and “far out” on the control horn. This situation gives the greatest mechanical advantage of the servo over the control surface which will increase the servo’s centering capabilities and output torque, minimize any free play in the system and allow high ATV settings for optimum servo resolution and positive control “feel.” Note: When the pushrod is “close in” on the servo arm, make certain the servo arm can travel through its full range of movement without the pushrod (or clevis or other type of connector) interfering with the servo arm, output shaft or servo case.

“Closest in”

on servo arm

“Farthest out”

on control horn

ACCEPTABLE

PUSHROD HOOKUP

If the optimum situation doesn’t provide enough control throw, the pushrod may be moved inward on the control horn, but it’s better to go farther out on the servo arm because this will introduce less free play than the alternative. Only after moving the pushrod all the way out on the servo arm, if you still can’t get the throw required, you’ll have to resort to moving the pushrod closer in on the control horn. Note: If you have a computer radio, it is always desirable to set your ATVs to 100% (or as near 100% as possible to achieve the control throw required). If setting up a model that requires extraordinary control surface throw (for 3D ﬂ ying for example), start by “maxing-out” your ATVs (typically 130% – 140%). Then, the dual rates in your “normal” ﬂ ight mode will still be acceptably high (70% – 80%) for good servo resolution.

POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS

PUSHROD HOOKUP

One particularly dangerous situation arises when the pushrod on the servo arm is too “far out” and the pushrod on the control horn is too “close in.” This setup is usually chosen by pilots who are trying to achieve maximum, “monster” control throws for 3D ﬂ ight. But with your pushrods set up this way, any free play (slop) in the linkages or servo will be greatly magniﬁ ed, possibly causing destructive control surface ﬂ utter. Additionally, if you have to turn your ATVs way down for “normal” throw, the result will be poor resolution and poor servo holding/centering capabilities. More importantly, too much force may be transmitted back to the servo, possibly causing control surface blowback, stripped servo gears or stripped servo arms—the latter two likely causing a crash.

Move the pushrod farther out

on the servo arm…

Long

distance

Pushrod far out

on the servo arm…

…But leave the pushrod in the farthest out

location on the control horn.

Short

distance

…pushrod close in

on the control horn.

❏ 4. Measure and set the low rate elevator throws and the

high and low rate throws for the rest of the control surfaces the same way.

These are the recommended control surface throws:

3D RATE

Down

ELEVATOR

RUDDER

AILERONS

NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the elevators and rudder.

2-3/4"

[70mm]

Right

[

127mm

1-1/2"

[

38mm

43°

44°

24°

2-3/4"

[70mm]

43°

Left

]

[

127mm

44°

Down

1-1/2"

]

[

38mm

24°

HIGH RATE

1-3/8"

[

35mm

20°

Right

3-1/2"

[

]

89mm

29°

7/8"

[

]

22.2mm 13°

Down

1-3/8"

]

[

35mm

20°

Left

3-1/2"

]

[

89mm

29°

Down

7/8"

]

[

22.2mm 13°

LOW RATE

7/8"

[

22.2mm

]

13°

Right

2-1/4"

[

57mm

]

18°

3/8"

[9.5mm]

]

6°

Down

7/8"

]

[

22.2mm 13°

Left

2-1/4"

]

[

57mm

18°

Down

3/8"

[9.5mm]

6°

]

Assemble the Balance Stand

For your convenience, a balance stand is included with your Reactor .60 biplane. The Reactor could be balanced the way you probably balance most of your models (with your ﬁ ngertips), but once assembled, the balance stand makes the procedure easier, faster and more accurate. One of the advantages is that you don’t have to set the model down to add weight and pick it up again to see the effects. And you can stand back and get a better view of how the model balances (nose-up, nose-down, level). All you have to do is place the model on the stand, add weight and observe the result. Assemble your balance stand as illustrated:

❏ 2. Glue the uprights to the sides, front and back. Glue a

doubler to each upright, then securely glue the dowels into the rounded notches in the top of both uprights.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

More than any other factor, the C.G. (center of gravity/ balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a model ﬂ ies and could determine whether or not your ﬁ rst ﬂ ight will be successful. If you value your model and wish to enjoy it for many ﬂ ights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced may be unstable and possibly unﬂ yable.

❏ 1. If you haven’t yet marked the balance point, return to

step 1 on page 26 and mark the balance point as illustrated. This will require removal of the top wing. At this stage the model should be in ready-to-ﬂ y condition with all of the components in place including the complete radio system, engine, mufﬂ er, propeller, spinner, pilot and an empty fuel tank. If you’ve built the electric version, install the motor battery.

❏ 1. Glue the side braces to the uprights—be certain to

make a right and a left!

❏ 2. Use weights or clamps to secure the balance stand

so it will not tip over. Place the model on the balance stand

with middle line on the bottom of the top wing resting on the dowels on the top of the stand. Be certain the needle valve, landing gear or propeller are not interfering with the stand causing a false reading. If not using the balance stand lift the model with your ﬁ ngers on the middle line.

❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy.” The battery

pack and/or receiver could be moved forward to get the model to balance, or weight could be added to the nose. If the nose drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver could be moved aft, or weight could be added to the tail. If relocating the receiver and/or battery is not practical, or if additional weight is still required after doing so, nose weight may be easily added by using “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz. [28g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). If spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, or if tail weight is required, use Great Planes “stick-on” lead (GPMQ4485). To ﬁ nd out how much weight is required, place incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the fuselage over the location where it would be mounted inside until the plane balances. A good place to add stick-on nose weight is to the ﬁ rewall. Do not attach weight to the cowl—this will cause the mounting screws to open up the holes. Once you have determined the amount of weight required, it can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuselage and gluing it permanently inside. Note: If mounting weight where it may be exposed to fuel or exhaust, do not rely upon the adhesive on the back to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the weight to fall off. Instead, permanently attach the weight with glue or screws.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight,

recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.

PREFLIGHT

Identify Your Model

No matter if you ﬂ y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you ﬂ y somewhere on your own, you should always have your name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club ﬂ ying sites and AMA sanctioned ﬂ ying events. Fill out the identiﬁ cation tag on the decal sheet and place it on or inside your model.

Charge the Batteries

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your radio control system to charge the batteries. You should always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go ﬂ ying, and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your radio system state differently, the initial charge on new transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15 hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the next charge may be done using the fast-charger of your choice. If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries may not reach their full capacity and you may be ﬂ ying with batteries that are only partially charged.

Balance the Model Laterally

❏ 1. With the wings level, lift the model by the engine propeller

shaft and the bottom of the fuselage under the trailing edge of the ﬁ n. Do this several times.

❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means

that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally

balanced will track better in loops and other maneuvers.

Balance Propellers

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before you ﬂ y. An unbalanced prop can be the single most signiﬁ cant cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our ﬂ ight box.

Ground Check

If using a glow engine, run the engine for a few minutes to make sure it idles reliably, transitions smoothly and maintains full power indeﬁ nitely. If using an electric motor, make sure the motor runs smooth at all RPM including fullthrottle. Afterward, inspect the model closely, making sure all fasteners, pushrods and connections have remained tight and the hinges are secure.

• To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use hands, ﬁ ngers or any other body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline powered engine an on/off switch should be connected to the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a running engine.

AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)

Range Check

Always ground check the operational range of your radio before the ﬁ rst ﬂ ight of the day following the manufacturer’s instructions that came with your radio. This should be done with the engine off and with the engine (or motor) running at various speeds. If the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not ﬂ y! Find and correct the problem ﬁ rst. Look for loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others.

• Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat, sparks or ﬂ ames, as fuel is very ﬂ ammable. Do not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate engines.

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or the Code that came with your AMA license.

General

1) I will not ﬂ y my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or model ﬂ ying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy by having been previously, successfully ﬂ ight tested.

2) I will not ﬂ y my model aircraft higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid ﬂ ying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise ﬂ ying to avoid having models ﬂ y in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the ﬂ ying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately ﬂ y my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

5) I will not ﬂ y my model unless it is identiﬁ ed with my name and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This does not apply to models while being ﬂ own indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

• Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

• Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.

• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine.

• Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

• Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine. Do not use your ﬁ ngers to ﬂ ip the propeller. Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.

• Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.

• The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a ﬁ re.

Radio Control

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground check before the ﬁ rst ﬂ ight of a new or repaired model.

2) I will not ﬂ y my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a qualiﬁ ed ﬂ ier, unless assisted by an experienced helper.

3) At all ﬂ ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established in front of which all ﬂ ying takes place with the other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with ﬂ ying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the ﬂ ight line. Intentional ﬂ ying behind the ﬂ ight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three

miles of any pre-existing ﬂ ying site except in accordance with the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code].

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch a powered model in ﬂ ight; nor should any part of the

model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch the ground, except while landing.

CHECK LIST

FLYING

During the last few moments of preparation your mind may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the ﬁ rst ﬂ ight. Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain checks and procedures that should be performed before the model is ﬂ own. To help avoid this, a check list is provided to make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are completed.

❏ 1. Be certain you have checked and set the C.G. according

to the measurements provided.

❏ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted. Simply stufﬁ ng them into place with foam rubber is not sufﬁ cient.

❏ 3. If using a radio on 72 MHz, extend the receiver antenna

down through the fuselage. If using a radio on 2.4GHz, make sure the antennas(s) are-mounted and oriented as suggested in the instructions that came with the radio system.

❏ 4. Make sure the model has been balanced laterally as

explained in the instructions.

❏ 5. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical fasteners

such as the screws that hold the wheel collars to the axles, screws in any screw-lock pushrod connectors and the screws that hold the wing struts to the mounting tabs on the wings.

❏ 6. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely. ❏ 7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place by

tugging on the control surfaces.

❏ 8. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA

where appropriate (servo mounting screws, aileron control horns).

❏ 9. Conﬁ rm that all controls operate in the correct direction

and the throws are set up according to the manual.

❏ 10. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the clevises

and that all servo arms are secured to the servos with the screws included with your radio.

❏ 11. Secure connections between servo wires and Y-connectors

or servo extensions, and the connection between your battery pack and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.

❏ 12. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are

not kinked.

❏ 13. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers). ❏ 14. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner. ❏ 15. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone

number on or inside your model.

❏ 16. Make sure your receiver battery pack is fully charged. ❏ 17. Range check your radio when you get to the ﬂ ying ﬁ eld.

The Reactor .60 biplane is a great-ﬂ ying model that ﬂ ies smoothly and predictably. The Reactor is, however, a very “neutral” ﬂ ying model that does not possess the same “self-correcting” tendencies that a trainer model possesses and should be ﬂ own only by pilots who have at least been checked out on a 4-channel low-wing, sport plane.

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If, while ﬂ ying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface ﬂ utter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an aileron or elevator) or a ﬂ ying surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected immediately, ﬂ utter can actually cause the control surface to detach or the ﬂ ying surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by an impending crash. The best thing to do when ﬂ utter is detected is to slow the model immediately by reducing power, then land as soon as safely possible. Identify which surface ﬂ uttered (so the problem may be resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If it ﬂ uttered once, under similar circumstances it will probably ﬂ utter again unless the problem is ﬁ xed. Some things which can cause ﬂ utter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor ﬁ t of clevis pin in horn; Sideplay of wire pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of the most prevalent causes of ﬂ utter; Flying an over-powered model at excessive speeds.

Takeoff

If this is your ﬁ rst biplane or 3D model, for reassurance and to keep an eye on other trafﬁ c, it is a good idea to have an assistant on the ﬂ ight line with you. Tell him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While full throttle may be desirable for takeoff, most models ﬂ y more smoothly at reduced speeds.

The Reactor .61 Bipe is an agile, lightweight model, so there won’t be much of a takeoff roll. But it does ground-handle extremely well—both on grass and on pavement—so takeoff should be pretty easy. Simply point the model into the wind and smoothly advance the throttle. If you are taking off from grass—especially rough grass—initially hold some “up” elevator to keep the tail on the ground until the model builds up speed (which will be in just a second or two). Stay “on top” of the rudder to keep the model pointing down the runway. Allow the model to “break ground” and establish a gentle climb. Be ready on the controls to get the model tracking straight. Then make your ﬁ rst turn away from the ﬂ ight line. If you are nervous or ﬁ nd yourself overcorrecting, remember to throttle back.

Flight

If you’re a less-experienced modeler, your ﬁ rst priority will be to throttle back to reach a comfortable ﬂ ying speed where the model will react somewhat slower than it would at fullthrottle. The next priority will be to adjust the trims to get the model to ﬂ y straight-and-level.

Once the model has been trimmed, continue to ﬂ y around for a few minutes getting used to how the model performs. Test the Reactor’s response to the high and low rate settings. After ﬂ ying around for a while (and while still at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel) practice slow ﬂ ight and execute practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see how the model handles at slower speeds—you should be pleased! Add power to see how the model climbs as well. Continue to ﬂ y around executing various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may be required to ﬁ ne tune the model so it ﬂ ies the way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this ﬁ rst ﬂ ight to become familiar with your model before landing.

Landing

Landing the Reactor .60 bipe is easy—you can slow it down to a crawl and the wings should always remain level and the ﬂ ight surfaces will always have control. The only thing you have to do is learn the glide path. On the downwind leg, cut

the throttle when at the correct altitude. Allow the nose to drop so the plane will maintain sufﬁ cient airspeed and simply bring the model in. If you’re coming in a little short, simply add throttle to stretch the landing. If coming in too hot, simply add power and try again.

Minding the model’s airspeed and glide path, continue to add “up” elevator until it stalls at the same time the wheels contact the ground. Continue to practice landings until you can bring it in on a postage stamp!

One ﬁ nal note about ﬂ ying your model. Have a goal or ﬂ ight plan in mind for every ﬂ ight. This can be learning a new maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know, or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively attempting a maneuver and suddenly ﬁ nding that you’ve run out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A ﬂ ight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.

Have a ball!

But always stay in control and ﬂ y in a safe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

MONOKOTE TEMPLATE

(FOR FUEL TANK HATCH)

Cut along this line, then mount to the backing on orange MonoKote.

Great Planes GPMA1023 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual