Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date
of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modifi cation. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the fi nal assembly or
material used for fi nal assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the fi nal user-assembled product. By the act of using the userassembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
Top Wingspan: 48 in [1220mm]
Bottom Wingspan: 48 in [1220mm]
Total Wing Area: 1145 sq in [73.9 dm2]
Weight: 7–7.5 lb [3170–3400 g]
Wing Loading: 14–15 oz/sq ft [43–46 g/dm2]
Length: 58.5 in [1485mm]
Radio: 4–5 ch.
Engine: .61 cu in [10cc] two-stroke,
.70–.91 cu in [11.5–15.0cc] four-stroke,
RimFire™ .80 (50-55-500kV)
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place
of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby
Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number,
fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem
and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the
package, the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes Reactor .60
biplane. The Reactor brings “new blood” into the hobby by
combining the stable, predictable fl ight characteristics of
models from the “old days,” with the light weight, style and
maneuverability contemporary modelers demand. In spite
of the Reactor’s aggressive appearance, the Reactor still
handles amazingly well at low speeds and is an absolute
“hoot” to bring in nice and slow for a landing.
There are several options and confi gurations for assembling
your Reactor .60 biplane, so please read through the manual
to decide on how your model will be completed.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to
the Reactor .60 biplane, visit the Great Planes web site at
www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then
select the Reactor .60 biplane ARF. If there is new technical
information or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will
appear in the upper left corner of the page.
AMA
If you are not already a member of the AMA, please join!
The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and
membership provides liability insurance coverage, protects
modelers’ rights and interests and is required to fl y at most
R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
fl ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid fl ying near or over
groups of people.
2
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
Engine Recommendations
1. Your Reactor .60 Bipe should not be considered a toy, but
rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Reactor, if not assembled and operated
correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators
and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unfl yable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in good condition,
a correctly sized engine, and other components as specifi ed
in this instruction manual. All components must be correctly
installed so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. You must check the operation of the model and
all components before every fl ight.
5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your fi rst fl ights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
6. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress fl ying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
7. WARNING: The cowl, wheel pants and center wing brace
included in this kit are made of fi berglass, the fi bers of which
may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never
blow into a part (wheel pant, cowl) to remove fi berglass dust,
as the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety
goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding,
drilling and sanding fi berglass parts. Vacuum the parts and
the work area thoroughly after working with fi berglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and fl yability of your fi nished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
The recommended engine sizes for the Reactor .60 biplane
are specifi ed on the cover of this instruction manual. If you
haven’t yet decided whether to go 2-stroke or 4-stroke, one
big advantage of most 4-strokes (such as the O.S. Max .91
illustrated in this manual) is that the muffl er can be positioned
to aim messy exhaust out the bottom of the fuselage keeping
most of the plane pretty clean. If mounting a 2-stroke inverted
(positioning the muffl er on the side of the fuselage), much of
the exhaust tends to get deposited on the side of the fuselage
unless preventative measures are taken.
If using the O.S. Max .91 and you wish to confi gure the muffl er
as shown in the manual (see page 20), an O.S. “Exhaust
Header Pipe (IN)” will also be required (OSMG2624).
3’ [900mm] standard silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131) will
also be required for glow engine installation.
A #29 (.135" [3.4mm]) drill and an 8/32 tap will be required
for drilling and tapping holes in the motor mount. A Great
Planes 8-32 tap & drill set (GPMR8103) or a Great Planes
10 piece tap & drill set (GPMR8108) are suitable.
Motor/Battery/ESC Recommendations
If electric power is your preference, rest assured that an
extensive part of testing and development of the Reactor .60
biplane was done with electric power. With the recommended
power plant, the Reactor was a thrill to fl y and able to perform
all the same “3D” maneuvers it did when powered with glow.
If not certain whether to go glow or electric, consider some
of the advantages of electric, which are: absence of oily
exhaust residue and the constant cleaning that goes with it;
“instant on” from never having to start the engine; and most
important to some people, silence. Of course, there are
other variables that may offset some of these advantages
such as the expense of LiPo batteries and all the charging
paraphernalia, charging time, and shorter fl ight times. (Using
the batteries and motor recommended, average fl ight times
for the Reactor were approximately 8 minutes.)
3
Following are the items illustrated in the instruction
manual for equipping your Reactor .60 biplane with an
electric motor:
POWER SYSTEM
❏ Great Planes ElectriFly
electric motor (GPMG4740)
™
RimFire™ .80 (50-55-500kV)
❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Brushless Motor Mount for large
motors (GPMG1260)
❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Silver Series 60A Brushless ESC
(GPMM1850)
❏ (4) 3mm x 10mm socket-head cap screws (DUBQ3227)
❏ (4) 3mm or #4 fl at washers (DUBQ3307)
❏ (4) 3mm or #4 lock washers (DUBQ3285)
❏ APC 15 x 8E propeller (APCQ4013)
❏ APC 15 x 6E propeller (APCQ1505)
BATTERY
A 3200mAh “6S” (6-cell, 22.2V) 20C LiPo (Lithium Polymer)
battery is recommended. However, 6S batteries are not readily
available, so two 3S (3-cell, 11.1V) batteries connected in
series (via a Y-connector) are required to make one fl ight
pack. This means two batteries will be required for the each
“fl ight pack” desired. Also note the “20C” requirement which
means that the batteries must be able to deliver current at a
rate that is at least 20 times its rated capacity. This enables
the motor to draw enough current to suitably fl y the plane.
Another critically important component of the motor battery
charging system is a cell balancer. LiPo battery technology is
so powerful that each, individual cell within the battery pack
should be charged equally—or balanced. Otherwise, capacity,
power and the overall battery life will be diminished. (1) Great
Planes ElectriFly Equinox LiPo Cell Balancer for each battery
to be charged simultaneously is recommended.
Finally, propeller selection has a noticeable effect on how the
Reactor performs. During fl ight testing we learned that an
APC 15 x 8E propeller was the best all-around propeller for
performance and sport fl ying, but if fl ying mostly 3D maneuvers
(specifi cally hovering), an APC 15 x 6E is recommended.
Here are the part/order numbers for all of the charging
items suggested:
❏ Great Planes PolyCharge4
(GPMM3015)
™
DC LiPo charger
❏ Hobbico 12V Power Supply (HCAP0250)
❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Equinox
(GPMM3160)
IMPORTANT: Before experimenting with different battery
combinations and connecting multiple battery packs with
adapter plugs, read the Battery Precautions on page 28.
™
LiPo Cell Balancer
The required battery adapter to convert two 3S packs into a 6S
pack is the Great Planes U.S. Deans® 2 to 1 Series adapter.
❏ Great Planes ElectriFly
battery (GPMP0623)
™
3200mAh 11.1V (3S), 20C LiPo
❏ Great Planes U.S. Deans 2 to 1 Series adapter
(GPMM3143)
❏ Great Planes adhesive-backed Velcro
batteries) is also required (GPMQ4480)
BATTERY CHARGING SETUP
®
(for mounting the
Radio/Servo Recommendations
SERVO OPTIONS
With the exception of the throttle servo, the rest of the servos
used to fl y the Reactor .60 biplane require a minimum
torque rating of 50 oz.-in. [3.6 kg-cm], although the S3102
micro servos used for the ailerons should not be used for
the elevators or rudder. The cutouts in the fuselage for the
two elevator servos and the one rudder servo are sized for
sub-standard size servos (such as Futaba S9650s, optimum
for light weight and fl ight precision and illustrated in these
instructions). However, standard size servos (such as
S9001s) may also be used simply by enlarging the openings
with the included plywood template.
Because each elevator is operated by a separate servo, a
radio capable of servo mixing or a servo reverser (such as
the Futaba SR-10 Dual Servo Reverser, FUTM4150) will
be required. However, because the elevator servos are
“mirrored” on opposite sides of the fuselage (with the
exception of one servo positioned ahead of the other so they
do not interfere with each other in the narrow fuselage), a
“computer” radio capable of separately adjusting the servo’s
endpoints is not required.
A battery charger suitable for charging LiPo batteries is also
required. The Great Planes PolyCharge4 DC LiPo charger
can charge up to four 3S LiPo batteries simultaneously.
The PolyCharge4 is powered by a 12V source such as an
automobile battery. But if charging from a 110V wall outlet is
preferred, a 110V-powered 12V power supply (for powering
the battery charger) will be required.
The mounting blocks for the four aileron servos fi t almost
any size servo from the S3102 mini servos (also optimum
for light weight and fl ight precision and illustrated in these
instructions) to standard-size servos (such as S9001s for
sport fl ying).
4
Here is some technical data for the suggested servos to
assist you in making a decision:
WeightTorque (@ 4.8V)
S9001
(FUTM0075)
S9650
(FUTM0260)
S3102*
(FUTM0034)
SERVO ARMS
If planning to do much 3D fl ying with Reactor .60 biplane,
extended servo arms will be required to achieve the necessary
3D throws. Otherwise, the standard servo arms that came
with your servos are suitable. For 3D fl ight, an extended
servo arm such as a Great Planes large-scale 1-1/2" [38mm]
single-sided servo arm (GPMM1105) is recommended for
the rudder servo and a Great Planes large-scale 1" [25mm]
single-sided servo arm (GPMM1100) is recommended for
each elevator servo. Standard servo arms are suitable for
the ailerons.
RECEIVER BATTERY
A minimum 1,000mAh receiver battery such as Futaba NR4F
1500mAh 4.8V battery (FUTM1285) is required to power the
radio system.
54 oz-in
[3.9 kg-cm]
50 oz-in
[3.6 kg-cm]
51 oz-in
[3.7 kg-cm]
1.7 oz
[48g]
.9 oz
[26g]
.7 oz
[21g]
Speed
(sec./60° @ 4.8V)
.22 sec.
.14 sec.
.25 sec.
Ailerons only
*
AILERON SERVO WIRE EXTENSIONS:
Same as for the elevator and rudder servos, if using digital
servos, be certain to use compatible servo extensions.
These are the order numbers for the aileron servo
extensions for digital servos:
❏ (4) Hobbico Pro 6" [300mm] servo extensions for digital
Futaba servos (HCAM2701)
❏ (1) Hobbico Pro 12" [600mm] servo extension for digital
Futaba servos (HCAM2711)
❏ (3) Futaba AEC-16 dual servo connectors for digital
servos (FUTM4135)
These are the order numbers for the aileron servo
extensions for standard servos:
❏ (4) Hobbico Command 6" [300mm] servo extensions for
standard Futaba servos (HCAM2000)
❏ (1) Hobbico Command 12" [600mm] servo extension for
standard Futaba servos (HCAM2100)
❏ (3) Futaba AEC-13 dual servo connector for standard
servos (FUTM4130)
If Y-harnesses are preferred inside each wing (instead
of two 6" [300mm] servo extensions and one dual
servo connector), these are the order numbers for
Y-harnesses for digital servos:
❏ (2) Hobbico Pro Y-harnesses for digital Futaba servos
(HCAM2751)
❏ (1) Hobbico Pro 12" [600mm] servo extension for digital
Futaba servos (HCAM2711)
❏ (1) Futaba AEC-16 dual servo connector for digital servos
(FUTM4135)
ELEVATOR/RUDDER SERVO WIRE EXTENSIONS
If using Futaba servos for the elevators and rudder, Futaba
400mm (16") servo extensions may be used, but they
are just long enough to reach the receiver. These are the
extensions illustrated in the instruction manual. If for some
reason you will be mounting your receiver farther forward,
or if you prefer more economical servo extensions, Hobbico
24" [610mm] servo extensions are also suitable. If using
digital servos, remember to use servo extensions suitable
for digital servos.
These are the order numbers for the elevator and
rudder servo extensions for digital servos:
❏ (3) Futaba 400mm (16") AEC-15 servo extensions for
digital servos (FUTM4145)
OR
❏ (3) Hobbico Pro 24" [610mm] heavy-duty servo extensions
for digital Futaba servos (HCAM2721)
These are the order numbers for the elevator and
rudder servo extensions for standard servos:
❏ (3) Futaba 400mm (16") AEC-11 servo extensions for
standard servos (FUTM3955)
OR
❏ (3) Hobbico Command
for standard Futaba servos (HCAM2200)
™
24" [610mm] servo extensions
These are the Y-harnesses and extensions for
standard servos:
❏ (2) Hobbico Command Y-harnesses for standard Futaba
servos (HCAM2500)
❏ (1) Hobbico Command 12" [600mm] servo extension for
standard Futaba servos (HCAM2100)
❏ (1) Futaba AEC-13 dual servo connector for standard
servos (FUTM4130)
5
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
BUILDING NOTES
Adhesives and Building Supplies
❏ 1/4" [6mm] R/C foam rubber (HCAQ1000)
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060)
❏ Silver solder w/fl ux (STAR2000)
❏ Great Planes .050" Ballwrench for screws in aileron servo
hatches (GPMR8000)
❏#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏#11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 1/8" [3.2mm],
❏ Small metal fi le
❏ Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)
❏ 8mm prop reamer (for propellers and included spinner –
GPMQ5007)
❏ Tap handle (GPMR8120)
❏ Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)
❏ 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❏ R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Dead Center
™
Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)
❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏ Kevlar thread (for horizontal stabilizer alignment)
❏ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel
❏ Hobby Heat
™
micro torch (HCAR0755)
Covering Tools
The 21st Century covering iron and protective cover sock
are recommended for tightening the covering or removing
any wrinkles.
st
❏ 21
Century® sealing iron (COVR2700)
st
❏ 21
Century iron cover (COVR2702)
• The Reactor .60 biplane ARF is factory-covered with
Top Flite® MonoKote® fi lm. Should repairs ever be required,
MonoKote can be patched with additional MonoKote
purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls,
but some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small
piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a
fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote is applied
with a model airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a
regular iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full
instructions for application. Following are the colors used on
this model and order numbers for six foot rolls.
• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fl y, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Reactor .60
bipe ARF are available using the order numbers in the
Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most
economical service can be provided by your hobby dealer
or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site at
www.greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy” and follow
the instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S.,
Canadian or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721,
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa® or MasterCard®
number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason contact
Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.
com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
6
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
GPMA3340 ..... Fuselage
GPMA3341 ..... Top Wing
GPMA3342 ..... Bottom Wing
GPMA3343 ..... Horizontal Stabilizer
GPMA3344 ..... Rudder
GPMA3345 ..... Cowl
GPMA3346 ..... Landing Gear
GPMA3347 ..... Wheelpants
GPMA3348 ..... Canopy
GPMA3349 ..... Struts
GPMA3350 ..... Decals
GPMA3351 ..... Batter y Hatch
GPMA3352 ..... Fuel Tank
NOTE: Full-size plans are not available. You can download a
copy of this manual at www.greatplanes.com.
KIT CONTENTS
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make
sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of
acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or
missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written
in the Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
13
13
12
10
1
9
11
10
2
9
3
4
7
8
14
6
5
1. Cowl
2. Fuselage
3. Canopy
4. Tailwheel Assembly
5. Rudder
15
6. Horizontal Stab
7. Wing Brace
8. Fuel Tank
9. Main Landing Gear
10. Wheel Pants
7
11. Main Wheels
12. Spinner
13. Wing Struts
14. Bottom Wing
15. Top Wing
PREPARATION
❏ 1. Use a covering iron with a cover sock to tighten the
covering or remove any wrinkles found on parts of the model.
Note: When moving the iron over trim pieces that are sharply
pointed, be certain to move the iron away from the point, not
toward it.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
Test-Mount the Elevator
and Rudder Servos
It will be easier to cut the covering from the servo mounts and
drill the servo mounting screws now, before the horizontal
stabilizer is glued into position.
❏ 2. Lay three or four
paper towels over each
other and cut the stack
into small squares. These
small paper towel squares,
dampened with denatured
alcohol, will come in
handy for epoxy cleanup
and other general cleanup
throughout assembly.
❏ 1. If using Futaba S9650 servos, cut the side-mount tabs
from each servo using a razor saw—don’t try to simply score
the tabs with a knife thinking they can be broken off—this will
probably damage the case. Use a small fi le or sandpaper to
sand the cut corners smooth and even.
LEFT ELEVATOR
SERVO OPENING
RIGHT ELEVATOR
SERVO OPENING
RUDDER
SERVO OPENING
8
❏ 2. Test fi t the servos in the servo openings in the fuselage.
If using standard-size servos that don’t fi t in the openings,
use a fi ne-point felt-tip pen and the plywood servo cutout template as a guide to mark larger openings. Cut the
enlarged openings along the lines you marked.
Mount the Horizontal Stabilizer (Stab)
❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue both 6 x 25mm bottom wing
dowels into the bottom wing with 1/4" [6mm] protruding.
❏ 2. If you haven’t yet done so, make sure the wrinkles have
been removed from the covering on the horizontal stabilizer
(stab) and around the stab openings on both sides of the
fuselage. (This will be a little more diffi cult to do after the stab
is glued in.)
❏ 3. Using the screw holes in the servos as a guide, drill
1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the fuselage for mounting all
three servos.
❏ 4. Temporarily mount the servos with the mounting screws
that came with the servos. Remove the screws and add a
few small drops of thin CA to each hole. This important
procedure will harden the “threads” cut by the screws to keep
your servos securely mounted.
❏ 3. Temporarily bolt the bottom wing to the fuselage with
the 1/4-20 x 2" [51mm] nylon wing bolts.
Before using glue, make a “trial run” of mounting the
stab by performing steps 3 through 7.
AA'
A = A'
❏ 4. Slide the stab into the fuselage. Center the trailing edge
(TE) in the fuselage by taking accurate measurements on
both sides.
9
B
❏ 5. Once the trailing edge is centered, stick pins into the
trailing edge tightly against both sides of the fuselage. This
will keep the trailing edge centered while centering the
leading edge in the next step.
B'
B = B'
❏ 7. Fold a piece of masking tape over the other end of the
string end and mark a line on it. Pull the string to the tip of
one side of the stab. Slide the tape along the string until the
line on the tape aligns with the tip. Swing the string over to
the same spot on the other side of the stab. If the mark on
the tape doesn’t align, rotate the stab and slide the tape until
both sides are the same and the stab is aligned.
One more alignment procedure to go before gluing…
❏ 6. Push another pin through the top of the fuselage at the
small mark indicating centerline on the fi rewall. Tie a small
loop in one end of an approximately 50" [1.25m] piece of
non-elastic string such as K&S Kevlar line or Kevlar fi shing
line. Loop the string over the pin.
❏ 8. Standing about 6’ [2m] behind the model, view the
alignment of the stab and wing. If the stab is not parallel with
the wing, place incrementally increasing amounts of weight
on the stab until you can get it parallel with the wing.
The next few steps may get messy, so make sure you
have your denatured alcohol and plenty of paper towel
squares ready.
❏ 9. Now that you’ve practiced the stab alignment procedure,
remove the stab from the fuselage. Liberally apply 30-minute
epoxy all the way around the exposed balsa on the right side
of the stab up to the covering.
10
❏ 10. Slide the stab into position, then partially out the other
side, exposing the uncovered balsa on the other side of the
stab. Apply more epoxy around the top and bottom of the
stab, then slide it back into place. Use your fi nger or a piece
of balsa or cardstock to thoroughly work epoxy back into the
joint all the way around the top and bottom on both sides.
Reinsert the pins into the trailing edge next to the fuselage.
Use your paper towel squares to wipe away excess epoxy
and use the pin and string and any weight that may have
been necessary to align the stab with the wing. Do not disturb
the model until the epoxy has hardened.
❏ 3. Join the matching elevator to the stab and take out the
T-pins. Make sure there is a small hinge gap—just enough to
see light through or to slip a piece of paper through.
❏ 4. Add eight to ten drops of thin CA to the top and bottom
of each hinge allowing a few seconds between drops for the
CA to soak in so it doesn’t run into the hinge gap.
❏ 5. Hinge the other elevator the same way, but don’t hinge
the rudder yet.
Hinge the Elevators and Rudders
1" [25mm]
CA HINGE
❏ 1. Cut ten 1" x 1" [25 x 25mm] CA hinges from the included
CA hinge strip. Snip off the corners so they go in easier.
1" [25mm]
❏ 6. Without using any glue, test fi t the tail wheel assembly into
the fuselage, then join the rudder with four hinges with pins.
Make any adjustments necessary so everything fi ts well.
❏ 2. Stick a pin through the middle of three hinges. Without
glue, fi t the hinges into the hinge slots in one side of the stab.
(The T-pins will keep the hinges centered.)
❏ 7. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the “arm” portion of
the tail gear wire (where it goes into the rudder) so glue will
adhere. Add a drop of oil to both ends of the tail gear bearing
so glue will not get in.
11
Hook Up the Elevator and Rudder
❏ 1. Connect your servo extensions to the rudder and elevator
servos. Secure the connectors with 1-1/2" [38mm] pieces of
heat shrink tubing cut from the 3" [76mm] tubing supplied.
Use a heat gun or a hobby torch to shrink the tubing.
Refer to these photos while hooking up the elevator and
rudder servos.
❏ 8. Use a small metal ruler or straightedge to work
30-minute epoxy down into the slot in the fuselage for the tail
gear bearing. Apply epoxy to the bearing, then fi t it into the
slot. Wipe away excess epoxy.
❏ 9. Apply epoxy in the hole in the rudder for the tail gear
wire and apply epoxy to the arm. Make sure the rudder
hinges are in place, then join the rudder to the fuselage with
the hinges. Wipe away any excess epoxy.
❏ 10. Remove the pins from the hinges and permanently
join the rudder to the fuselage by gluing in the hinges with
thin CA.
❏ 2. Mount the elevator and rudder servos in the fuselage
using the screws that came with them.
12
We’re going to instruct you to center the servos and
adjust the pushrods now, but this could be done later
during fi nal setup if you prefer.
❏ 3. Temporarily connect the servos to your receiver with a
battery and a switch so you can move the servos with your
transmitter. Turn on your transmitter and make sure the trims
are centered and turn on the receiver.
NO
NO
90˚90˚
YES
CUT OFF THE
UNUSED ARMS
GREAT PLANES
LARGE-SCALE ARM
❏ 4. Mount your servo arms to the servos—if using the
recommended Great Planes large-scale servo arms,
position the square plastic inserts so the servo arms will be
90-degrees to the servo. If using the standard servo arms that
came with your servos, fi nd the arm that will be 90-degrees
to the servo and cut off the remaining unused arms.
❏ 5. Read the following Expert Tip about how to solder
pushrods, then make the pushrods and connect the rudder
and elevator with the pushrods and control horns as shown
in the photos. IMPORTANT: Be certain you are soldering the solder clevises onto the non-threaded end of the pushrods
and threading the threaded clevises onto the threaded end
of the pushrods. Sometimes modelers mistake unthreaded
clevises for threaded clevises. Note: Make sure the horns
are-mounted over the hardwood plates built into each control
surface and are positioned as thown in the sketch at step 6.
And drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the #2 x 1/2" [12.7mm] Phillips
horn mounting screws. Don’t forget the important procedure
of installing, then removing the screws and hardening the
holes with thin CA.
HOW TO SOLDER
❏ A. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to thoroughly
clean the pushrod. Roughen the end of the pushrod with
coarse sandpaper where it is to be soldered.
❏ B. Apply a few drops of soldering fl ux to the end of
the pushrod, then use a soldering iron or a torch to heat
it. “Tin” the heated area with silver solder (Stay Brite,
STAR2000) by applying the solder to the end. The heat of
the pushrod should melt the solder—not the fl ame of the
torch or soldering iron—thus allowing the solder to fl ow.
The end of the wire should be coated with solder all the
way around.
❏ C. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod. Add
another drop of fl ux, then heat and add solder. The same
as before, the heat of the parts being soldered should
melt the solder, thus allowing it to fl ow. Allow the joint to
cool naturally without disturbing. Avoid excess blobs, but
make certain the joint is thoroughly soldered. The solder
should be shiny, not rough. If necessary, reheat the joint
and allow to cool.
❏ D. Immediately after the solder has solidifi ed, but while
it is still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe off the fl ux before
it hardens. Important: After the joint cools, coat with oil
to prevent rust. Note: Do not use the acid fl ux that comes
with silver solder for electrical soldering.
This is what a properly soldered clevis looks like—shiny
solder with good fl ow, no blobs, fl ux removed.
“JAM” NUT
SILICONE RETAINER
❏ 6. After all the pushrods have been made and the elevator
and rudder connected, tighten the 4-40 “jam” nuts to
the threaded clevises and install silicone retainers on all
the clevises.
13
Mount the Main Landing Gear
❏ 1. Use a 1/2" wrench and a 7/32" wrench (or crescent
wrenches) to fasten a 5/32" x 1-1/4" [4mm x 32mm] bolt-on
axle to each fi berglass main landing gear leg with a 5/16"-24
lock nut.
❏ 2. Use a small metal fi le or a rotary tool with a reinforced
cutoff wheel to grind a fl at spot 1/8" [3.2mm] from the end of
both axles.
5/32" [4mm] WHEEL COLLAR
AND 6-32 SET SCREW
❏ 4. Mount the main landing gear to the fuselage with six
4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS and #4 lock washers and fl at
washers—use a drop or two of threadlocker on the threads
of the screws.
Mount the Motor
If mounting a glow engine,
skip to Mount the Engine on page 16.
Refer to this photo for steps 1 and 2.
❏ 3. Mount the wheels to the axles with 5/32" [4mm] wheel
collars and 6-32 set screws (and a drop of threadlocker)—
before tightening the set screws, test fi t the pant to the gear
to get the wheel centered. Mount the pants to each gear with
4-40 x 1/2" [12.7mm] Phillips screws, #4 lock washers and
fl at washers (and threadlocker).
❏ 1. Mount your motor to the motor mount (not included) with
three 3 x 10mm SHCS, 3mm lock washers and fl at washers
(not included)—and don’t forget to use threadlocker on the
threads. Mount the motor mount to the fi rewall with four 8-32
x 1/2" [12.7mm] SHCS and #8 lock washers.
❏ 2. Move the front plate of the mount as far back as it will
go, add some threadlocker to the screw, then tighten the
eight 6-32 screws that hold the plates together. Using the
back plate of the spinner as a reference for measurement,
this should set the front of the propeller adapter on the motor
5-5/8" [143mm] from the fi rewall.
14
BATTERY
MOUNT
PLATE
7" [178mm]
“HOOK” SIDE
5-1/2" [140mm]
“LOOP” SIDE
2" [51mm] OVERLAP
❏ 4. Test fi t the battery and the mounting plate in the
fuselage—note that the tabs in the front of the mounting plate
key into the notches in the back of the fi rewall and that the
sides of the mounting plate are locked into the former near the
rear. (For clarity in the photo on the top, the battery strap has
been removed so you can see how the battery plate fi ts.)
❏ 3. Prepare the plywood battery mounting plate by
determining exactly how you will be mounting your battery
pack—if using the batteries recommended, you can do it as
illustrated, or use this as a guide for mounting the batteries
your own way. Cut strips of the softer, “loop” side of a
1" x 6" [25.4 x 152mm] Great Planes Velcro strip (GPMQ4480,
not included) and stick them to the bottom of your batteries.
Stick strips of the rougher, “hook” side to the mounting plate.
Make a battery strap from the included hook-and-loop strap
by cutting a 5-1/2" [140mm] piece of the loop side and a
7" [178mm] piece of the hook side. Test fi t the battery to the
plate with the strap. Suggestion: Hold the two battery packs
together with a few small strips of Velcro or double-sided
foam tape.
❏ 5. Once satisfi ed with the mounting method and battery
placement, remove the battery and mounting plate. Glue the
strap to the bottom of the battery mounting plate (so it cannot
fall out when the batteries are removed), and securely glue
the battery mounting plate into position.
ESC CUTOUT
(REMOVE)
❏ 6. Remove the ESC cutout in the fi rewall by carefully
cutting across the tabs around the edges with a hobby knife.
15
❏ 7. Glue together the plywood ESC mount and glue the
plywood screw doublers to the bottom of the mount. Mount
the ESC to the mount with three #4 x 1/2" [12.7mm] screws
and #4 fl at washers.
Mount the Engine
(A 4-stroke is shown in the photos, but the procedure for
a 2-stroke is the same.)
❏ 1. Temporarily mount the included Great Planes .60-1.20
adjustable motor mount to the fi rewall with four 8-32 x 1"
[25.4mm] SHCS and #8 fl at washers and lock washers, but
don’t tighten the bolts all the way yet.
❏ 8. Securely glue the ESC mount to the fi rewall. Connect
the motor wires to the motor.
IMPORTANT: Before connecting your batteries to power
up the motor in the following step, be certain NOT to have
a propeller mounted to the motor and read the Battery Precautions on page 28.
❏ 9. Temporarily connect your receiver, on/off switch,
receiver battery and motor batteries so you can power the
motor to make sure it is hooked up correctly. Turn on the radio
and use the throttle stick on your transmitter to make sure
the motor turns in the correct direction (counter-clockwise
when viewed from the front). If the motor does not turn the
correct direction, switch any two motor and ESC wires with
each other to reverse the direction. Use nylon tie wraps or
electrical tape to secure all the wires and make certain they
will not rub on the motor or motor shaft.
❏ 2. Place your engine on the mount and adjust the spacing
to fi t the engine. Now tighten the bolts. Use a small clamp to
hold the engine to the mount so the front of the drive washer
(or the back plate of your spinner) will be 5-5/8" [143mm]
from the fi rewall.
❏ 3. Use a Great Planes Dead-Center Hole Locator or
another method to mark the locations of the engine mounting
bolts onto the engine mount.
❏ 4. For perfection, if you have access to a drill press,
remove the mount halves and drill #29 (.135" [3.4mm]) holes
at the marks. If a drill press is not available, the holes may be
drilled while the mount is fastened to the fi rewall.
❏ 5. Use an 8-32 tap to cut threads into the holes—this is
easily and quickly done holding the mount halves in your
hand with your tap chucked in a hand drill at low speed.
16
O.S. .61FX
O.S. FS91 II,
O.S. FS81
O.S. FS91 II PUMP
❏ 6. Before-mounting the engine, drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes
through the fi rewall at the crossmarks that align with the
carburetor arm on your throttle as indicated in the sketch. If
using a different engine, you may have to mark and drill the
hole in a different location.
❏ 7. Bolt the engine to the engine mount with for 8-32 x 1"
[25.4mm] SHCS and #8 lock washers.
Install the Fuel Tank
❏ 3. Glue both plywood fuel tank rings to the back of the
fi rewall centered on the opening.
HOOK RUBBER
BANDS HERE
FUEL TANK HOLDER
❏ 1. Assemble the stopper with the aluminum tubes, fuel
lines and clunks as shown. Bend the long tube so it will be
at the top of the tank and cut the fuel lines so the clunks
cannot contact the back of the tank—otherwise they could get
stuck. Note that one of the lines will be used for fueling and
defueling and the other line will be the pickup line that goes
to the carburetor. The bent tube will be connected to the vent/
pressure line that will go to the pressure tap on the muffl er.
❏ 2. Write “BOTTOM” on either of the two narrower surfaces
of the tank so you will know which way to install it after
installing the stopper assembly. Insert the stopper so the
vent tube will be at the top of the tank, then tighten the screw
to squish the stopper and seal the tank. Shake the tank to
make sure the fuel lines are not too long and the clunks are
able to fl op around. If necessary, remove the stopper and
shorten the lines.
❏ 4. Install the fuel tank and hold it in place with a couple of
rubber bands hooked around the former where shown in the
sketch. Test-fi t, then glue the plywood fuel tank holder into
position at the back of the tank as shown.
17
Hook Up the Throttle
Refer to these photos and sketches while hooking up
the throttle.
GUIDE TUBE SUPPORTS
SCREW-LOCK
PUSHROD
CONNECTOR
4-40 x 1/8" [3.2mm] SHCS
(USE THREADLOCKER)
NYLON
RETAINER
2-56 PUSHROD
❏ 1. Glue in the plywood throttle servo tray and hook up
the throttle using the 36" [914mm] pushrod cut to length with
a gray, plastic guide tube. Use a clevis on the carburetor end
and a screw-lock connector on the servo end as shown. Use
the plywood guide tube supports to anchor the throttle
guide tube as necessary.
❏ 2. Once you have the fuel tank mounted and the throttle
hooked up, place the fuselage hatch in the hatch opening in
the bottom of the fuselage. Optional: The back of the fuel
tank hatch and the “retaining lip” in the fuselage for the hatch
have been fuelproofed, but if you would like to completely
seal off the area, cut the hatch seal template from page
35 and use spray adhesive to mount it to the backing on a
sheet of orange or clear MonoKote (not included). Cut out the
MonoKote, then remove the backing and iron the MonoKote
over the hatch for a fuelproof seal.
Mount the Cowl
On models such as the Reactor where portions of the engine
and/or muffl er protrude from the cowl, cutting holes for the
engine and muffl er can be a “catch-22” situation. You can’t
know exactly where to cut holes for the engine and muffl er
until the cowl is mounted, but the cowl can’t be mounted until
these holes are cut. In some cases templates may be used,
but on models where the cutouts are over contoured, parts
of the cowl templates may not work well. So on models like
this, the best way is to “cut and fi t” as illustrated:
18
❏ 1. Take an estimated measurement of where the engine
head will protrude from the cowl. In this case the front of the
cutout will be approximately 4-1/2" [115mm] from the back
of the cowl.
❏ 2. According to the measurement, mark the location on
the cowl.
❏ 4. Continue to fi t, mark and cut the cowl as necessary until
you can get it at least partially into position. As you proceed,
try to keep the cutout as small as possible. Later, once the
cowl has been mounted to the fuselage, the cutout will be
trimmed to perfection.
❏ 3. Using a powered rotary tool with a small cutting bit,
make the fi rst cut in the cowl much smaller and slightly
farther aft than you know will be required, but good enough
for a starting point. Try fi tting the cowl over the engine and
mark where the cut needs to be enlarged. In the photo, the
cowl isn’t very close to fi tting, but it’s a start.
❏ 5. Once you can get the cowl to fi t onto the fuselage over
the engine, set the cowl aside. Use a fi ne-point felt-tip pen
to draw a line on both sides of the fuselage aligned with the
front of the fi rewall. Mark two points on both sides of the
fuselage 1/8" [3.2mm] aft of the lines for the cowl mounting
screw holes.
19
❏ 6. Make four templates with holes from thin cardstock to be
used for marking the screw holes once the cowl is in position.
Tape the templates to the fuselage with the holes in the
templates aligned over the marks made in the previous step.
❏ 7. Fit the cowl into position. Temporarily fi t the spinner onto
the engine so the cowl can be accurately aligned with it.
❏ 10. Remove the cardstock templates. Reposition the cowl
and spinner. Holding the cowl in position, use the holes in the
cowl as a guide for drilling four 3/32" [2.4mm] holes into the
fuselage for the mounting screws.
❏ 11. Enlarge the holes in the cowl only with a 1/8" [3.2mm]
drill. Test mount the cowl with four #4 x 1/2" [12.7mm] screws
and #4 washers. Make any adjustments necessary for a
good fi t. If necessary, the holes may be slightly elongated or
enlarged to realign the cowl for perfecting the fi t.
❏ 8. Centering the cowl on the spinner with a 1/8" [3.2mm]
space in between, use a fi ne point felt-tip pen to mark each
screw hole in the template onto the cowl.
❏ 9. Remove the cowl. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the
cowl at each mark.
❏ 12. Once satisfi ed with the fi t of the cowl, glue the four
thin plywood cowl reinforcements to the inside of the cowl
centered over each hole. Don’t forget to harden the screw
holes in the fuselage with thin CA.
20
❏ 13. Same as when cutting holes for the engine, when
cutting holes for the muffl er, start small, test-fi t the cowl, then
continue to mark, cut and fi t the cowl as necessary until you
can get it into position. In the case of the O.S. .91 4-stroke
with the 90-degree exhaust header, you can mount the cowl
with the header pipe already mounted to the engine, then
install the muffl er with the stock header pipe after mounting
the cowl.
❏ 14. Cut any other holes in the cowl necessary for the
needle valve, engine cooling, glow plug, etc. For the needle
valve, it is convenient to use a paper template.
❏ 15. If you haven’t already done so (and if using a glow
engine), connect the fuel lines—there should be one line
that connects the vent (on the top of the tank) to the pressure
fi tting on the muffl er, another line connecting the tank to the
carburetor and a third line for fueling/defueling. Close the
fueling line (which can be reached through the bottom of the
cowl for fueling and defueling) with an included aluminum
fuel line plug.
21
Here’s a photo of the fi nished cowl with all necessary cuts.
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS
Mount the Aileron Servos
❏ 2. Hold two servo mounting blocks to one of the aileron
servos with pieces of thin cardstock between each block and
the servo and under the servo—if using standard-size servos
use two of the larger blocks, if using smaller servos like the
3102s use one of the smaller mounting blocks on the end
of the servo that has the wire coming out of it. Drill 1/16"
[1.6mm] holes into the blocks for the mounting screws.
❏ 3. Mount the servo to the blocks with the screws that came
with the servos. Same as has been done all along, remove
the screws, add a few drops of thin CA to each screw hole,
allow to harden, and then re-mount the servos to the blocks.
❏ 4. Mount the remaining three servos to the blocks the
same way.
❏ 1. The same as was done for the rudder and elevator
servos, temporarily connect your aileron servos to your
receiver and power the system up. With the aileron trim
centered, fi nd the servo arms that will be 90° to each servo
and cut off the unused arms. Mount the arms to the servos.
❏ 5. Use 30-minute epoxy to securely glue the servo blocks to
the aileron hatches with the servo arms centered in the slots.
The best way is to apply epoxy to the bottom of each block
and let it soak in for a few minutes. Then reapply another coat.
Also apply a fi lm of epoxy to the hatches where the blocks go,
and then glue the blocks into position. Use clamps or weights
to hold the blocks in place until the epoxy has hardened.
22
Refer to this photo while hooking up the ailerons.
❏ 7. Mount the hatches in the wing with #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
button-head screws. This will require a .050" ballwrench, as
mentioned in the front of this manual.
❏ 8. The same as was done for the elevators and rudder,
make the pushrods and connect the bottom ailerons to the
servos using the hardware shown. Don’t forget to use thin
CA to harden the screw holes for the horn mounting screws
and the hatch screws.
❏ 6. If using servo extensions (instead of Y-harnesses),
connect the extensions to the servo wires and secure the
connections with 1-1/2" [38mm] pieces of heat shrink tubing.
Use the string in the bottom wing to pull an extension into
each servo opening out through the holes in the top (top
photo). If using Y-harnesses, tape each end of the string to
the edge of the servo hatch (middle photo), then lift the string
up through one of the holes in the top of the middle of the
wing. Cut the string in half, tie each end to the ends of the
Y-harness and pull them through (bottom photo). Hint: After
tying the knot in the string around the connector, add a drop
of thin CA to the knot so it cannot come untied when you are
pulling the connectors down through the wings.
❏ 9. Install the servo extension wires, mount the aileron servos
and make the pushrods for the top wing the same way.
Mount the Wings
NOTE: Before using glue, read the entire wing mounting
procedure so you will have everything ready and understand
how to proceed.
❏ 1. Cut the covering from the holes in the eight plywood
wing strut tabs. Tap a 4-40 blind nut into one side of each
tab. Add a few drops of thin CA around each blind nut and let
it soak in so the blind nuts will not fall out.
❏ 2. With the blind nuts on the tabs toward the middle of the
wing, test fi t four tabs into the slots in the bottom wing to
make sure they all fi t. Make any adjustments necessary so
they go all the way down.
23
❏ 3. Remove the tabs. Apply 30-minute epoxy in the slots
in the wing and to the tabs. Push the tabs into the slots.
Wipe away any excess epoxy that squeezes out. Proceed
immediately to the next step.
1/16"
[2mm]
WING BOLT PLATE
REMOVE THE
COVERING
7/16"
[11.1mm]
3/16"
[4.8mm]
❏ 5. Cut the covering from one side of the plywood wing
bolt plate as shown.
❏ 6. Bolt the bottom wing to the fuselage with the wing bolt
plate. Use a fi ne-point felt-tip pen to mark the outline of the
wing bolt plate onto the bottom of the wing.
❏ 4. Temporarily fasten the bottom of the wing struts to
the tabs with four 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Phillips screws and
#4 fl at washers. Push the wing struts all the way down to the
wing to make sure the tabs are set correctly. Allow the epoxy
to harden.
24
❏ 7. Cut the covering from the bottom of the wing 1/16"
[1.6mm] inside the line you marked and 1/16" [1.6mm]
ahead of the wing trailing edge. Wipe away excess ink from
the lines you drew with a few of your paper towel squares
and denatured alcohol.
❏ 8. Apply a thin coat of epoxy to the bottom of the wing
bolt plate and the bottom wing. Bolt the wing to the fuselage.
Wipe away excess epoxy and allow to harden.
❏ 10. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the top wing dowels into
the top wing. Wipe away any excess epoxy, then fi t the wing
brace over the dowels while the epoxy is hardening. Use
care not to inadvertently glue the wing brace to the dowels
or the wing.
❏ 9. Test fi t both 6mm x 30mm hardwood top wing dowels
into the holes in the bottom of the top wing, then test fi t the
fi berglass wing brace to the wing over the dowels. Make any
adjustments necessary for a good fi t. Note: If you fi nd that
the dowels fi t too tightly into the brace, the holes in the brace
may be “cleaned out” with a 15/64" [6mm] drill.
❏ 11. Temporarily fasten the remaining four wing strut tabs
to the top of both wing struts. Without using any glue, fi t the
wing brace into the fuselage, then key the top wing down
into the wing brace and the strut tabs. Make any adjustments
necessary for a good fi t.
❏ 12. Once satisfi ed with the fi t, remove the top wing from
the assembly and take the strut tabs off the struts. Use coarse
sandpaper to thoroughly roughen the fi berglass wing brace
where it goes into the fuselage and use 30-minute epoxy to
glue it into position. Immediately proceed to the next step.
❏ 13. Fit the wing strut tabs into the top wing with 30-minute
epoxy. Wipe off any excess epoxy that squeezes out, then
fi t the top wing to the wing brace and fasten the tops of the
wing struts to the strut tabs with four 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
screws. Bolt the top wing to the wing brace with a 6-32 x
1-1/2" [38mm] SHCS and a #6 lock washer and fl at washer.
Make sure all of the parts fi t together well and do not disturb
the model until the epoxy has hardened.
25
Mark the Balance Point (C.G.)
The balance point (C.G.) is to be marked on the bottom
of the top wing. It will be easier to do this now, beforemounting the wing to the fuselage. This is where the
model will be balanced during fi nal setup later.
RECOMMENDED STARTING BALANCE POINT
5-1/4" [133mm] FROM THE LEADING EDGE
OF THE MIDDLE OF THE TOP WING
5-1/4"
[133mm]
C.G. RANGE
TEMPLATE
MAXIMUM
FORWARD
BALANCE LIMIT
MAXIMUM AFT
BALANCE LIMIT
4.5" [114mm]
5.25" [133mm]
6" [152mm]
FORWARD
RECOMMENDED
BALANCE POINT
(5-1/4" [133mm]
FROM THE LE OF
THE MIDDLE OF
THE TOP WING)
The recommended C.G. is 5-1/4" [133mm] from the
leading edge of the middle of the top wing. This is
where you should balance the model for the fi rst fl ights.
Later, you may experiment by shifting the C.G. up to 3/4"
[19mm] forward or 3/4" [19mm] back to change the fl ying
characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward will improve the
smoothness and stability, but the model will then be less
aerobatic (which may be fi ne for less-experienced pilots).
Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more maneuverable
and aerobatic for experienced pilots. In any case, start at the recommended balance point and do not at any
time balance the model outside the specifi ed range.
❏ 1. After the epoxy from mounting the top wing has hardened,
remove the top wing from the model. Use a fi ne-point felt-tip
pen to mark short lines directly on the bottom of the top wing
next to the lines on both sides of the plywood C.G. template.
The middle line is the recommended, starting balance point
and the forward and aft lines note the limits of the forward
and aft balance range.
❏ 2. Use your fi ne-point felt-tip pen and a straightedge to
draw approximately 7" [178mm] lines over the short lines you
marked in the previous step. Note: After balancing the model
later, the lines will easily wash off with a few paper towel
squares dampened with denatured alcohol, or you may leave
the balance lines on the wing for future reference.
❏ 3. The included plywood balance stand will assist you
in balancing the model and determining how much (if any)
additional lead ballast may be required to achieve the correct
C.G. However, if you prefer not to use the stand and would
rather just balance the model with your fi ngertips, apply thin
(1/16" [1.6mm]) strips of tape over the lines so you will be
able to feel them when balancing the model later.
26
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Mount the Canopy
❏ 1. If installing a pilot, trim the pilot as necessary to fi t
under the canopy and between the fuselage sides. Cut the
covering from the cockpit fl oor so the pilot can be glued
directly to bare wood.
❏ 2. Securely glue the pilot into position. Cut the instrument
panel decal from the decal sheet and place it on the
instrument panel in the cockpit.
Final Radio Installation
Refer to this photo while fi nishing the radio installation.
❏ 1. Wrap the receiver and receiver battery in 1/4" [6.4mm] R/C
foam. Mount the battery and receiver to the plywood receiver/
battery tray inside the fuselage with straps made from the
included hook-and-loop strips. If using a 2.4GHz receiver that
has short antennas, glue short lengths of small plastic tubing
(like the type found on spray cans of compressed air) to the
inside of the fuse sides for properly routing the antennas. If
using a 72 MHz receiver with a long antenna wire, be certain
to guide the antenna down through the fuse.
❏ 2. Mount the on/off switch and a charge jack to the
fuselage side opposite the muffl er so they will not get coated
with engine exhaust. Note that there are already cutouts for a
Futaba switch and an Ernst charge receptacle, so all that has
to be done is cut away the covering. If using a different switch
or charge receptacle, or if you prefer to mount your Futaba
switch and Ernst charge receptacle in a different location,
use the mounting plates that came with them as templates
to cut new mounting holes where preferred.
❏ 3. Attach the canopy. If permanently gluing on the
canopy, apply R/C 56 canopy glue and use masking tape
to temporarily hold the canopy in place until the glue is dry.
If using the included #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] button-head screws,
temporarily tape the canopy to the fuselage. Drill four 1/16"
[1.6mm] holes through the canopy and fuselage. Remove the
canopy, enlarge the holes in the canopy with a 3/32" [2.4mm]
drill, and then mount the canopy with the screws.
❏ 3. Connect the rudder and elevator servo wires to the
receiver. Connect a dual servo connector to the aileron
channel in the receiver, then connect a 12" [305mm] servo
extension to the dual extension and guide it through the
fuselage out the fi berglass wing brace for the ailerons in the
top wing. The remaining, open port in the dual extension will
be for the aileron servo wire coming from the bottom wing,
so all four aileron servos will be connected to one channel.
27
Now that the model is fully assembled and all of the
external systems/components have been installed,
access to the inside of the model will probably no longer
be necessary. If you plan to transport your Reactor with the
wings mounted, and if you are ready to install the wings
at this time, go ahead and do so. IMPORTANT: Whether
you choose to mount the wings now, or later when you
get to the fl ying fi eld, be certain to use threadlocker on
the eight screws that secure the wing struts to the tabs
and to the single screw that holds the top wing to the
middle brace. Be sure to use a #4 lock washer and a #4
fl at washer on each screw.
There are two ways to connect multiple battery packs: In
Series and in Parallel.
These are two 3200mAh batteries (one 11.1V
and the other 7.4V). When joined in SERIES,
the result will be a 18.5V, 3200 mAh battery.
11.1V (3-Cell)
GPMP0613
7.4V (2-Cell)
GPMP0613
It’s okay to connect batteries with different voltages in
series to achieve the new, desired voltage.
OKAY
This is a SERIES battery
adapter (GPMM3143)
that connects two
batteries in series.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Apply the Decals
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fi ngerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and
water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the
decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer
type, submersing them in soap & water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the decal
down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
❏ 1. Connecting batteries in “Series” means to connect
the +’s to the –’s and the –’s to the +’s. This combines the
battery’s Voltages, but the capacity remains the same. This is
the recommended setup for the Reactor Bipe (even though
both batteries will be two 11.1V, 3200mAh).
These two 1500mAh batteries (both 11.1V) are
being joined in PARALLEL. The result will be
one 11.1V, 3000mAh battery.
OKAY
11.1V (3-Cell)
GPMP0613
11.1V (3-Cell)
GPMP0613
This is a PARALLEL battery
adapter (GPMM3142) that
connects two batteries in parallel.
❏ 2. Connecting batteries in “Parallel” means to connect
the +’s to the +’s and the -’s to the -’s. This combines the
battery’s capacities, but the Voltage remains the same.
LiPo Battery Precautions
For modelers who will be powering their Reactor with an
electric motor:
Charged motor batteries will be required before you can
power the motor to make certain it is turning the correct
direction and that your throttle is set up correctly. Before
charging and connecting your batteries to the ESC in the
plane, read the following information.
IMPORTANT: If using multiple battery packs that are
connected with an adapter, never charge the batteries
together through the adapter. Always charge each battery pack separately. Charge each battery pack separately, then
read the following precautions on how to connect multiple
packs for setting up the ESC or fl ying the model:
NO!!
NEVER connect battery packs with different Voltages in
Parallel–only combine in Series. Otherwise, the batteries
will try to “equalize” with the larger one trying to “charge” the
smaller one, thus causing heat and likely a fi re.
28
Set the Control Throws
NO!!
Also NEVER connect battery packs with different capacities
in Series or in Parallel.
Check the Control Directions
❏ 1. If you have not yet done so, mount the wings and
connect the aileron servo wires to the receiver. At this time it
is still advisable to NOT have the propeller mounted.
❏ 2. The servos were already centered during assembly, but
now is a good time to do a fi nal check. Turn on the transmitter
and receiver and center the trims. If necessary, remove the
servo arms from the servos and reposition them so they are
centered. Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.
❏ 3. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
To ensure a successful fi rst fl ight, set up your Reactor
.60 biplane according to the control throws provided
on page 31. The throws have been determined through
fl ight testing and record-keeping allowing the model to
perform in the manner in which it was intended. If, after
you have become accustomed to the way the Reactor
fl ies, you would like to change the throws to suit your
taste, that is fi ne. However, too much control throw could
make the model too responsive and diffi cult to control, so
remember, “more is not always better.”
❏ 1. Use a box or something similar to prop up the bottom
of the fuselage so the horizontal stabilizer and wings will
be level.
Measure the high rate elevator throw fi rst…
4-CHANNEL RADIO SET UP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
RIGHT AILERON
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
FULL
THROTTLE
❏ 4. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
(or the electric motor) respond in the correct direction as shown
in the diagram. If any of the controls respond in the wrong
direction, use the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse
the servos connected to those controls. Be certain the control
surfaces have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
❏ 2. Hold a ruler vertically on your workbench against
the widest part (front-to-back) of the trailing edge of one of
the elevators.
❏ 3. Use the transmitter to move the elevators up and move
the ruler forward so it will remain contacting the trailing
edge. The distance the elevator moves up from center is the
“up” elevator throw. Measure the down elevator throw the
same way.
29
Proper Pushrod Hookup
Avoiding Flutter, Maximizing Servo Output Torque
When connecting pushrods
and setting up your control
throws, it is critically important to use proper
pushrod geometry — that
is the distance from the
pushrod on the servo arm to the center of the output shaft (servo arm offset) compared to the distance from the pushrod
on the control horn to the pivot point (control horn offset).
SERVO ARM
OFFSET
Pivot point
Note: Your control horn may vary.
CONTROL
HORN OFFSET
PREFERRED
PUSHROD HOOKUP
Here is an optimum pushrod setup—the
pushrod is “close in” on the servo arm and
“far out” on the control horn. This situation
gives the greatest mechanical advantage
of the servo over the control surface which
will increase the servo’s centering capabilities and output torque, minimize any free play in the system and allow high ATV
settings for optimum servo resolution and positive control “feel.” Note: When the pushrod is “close in” on the servo arm,
make certain the servo arm can travel through its full range of movement without the pushrod (or clevis or other type of
connector) interfering with the servo arm, output shaft or servo case.
“Closest in”
on servo arm
“Farthest out”
on control horn
ACCEPTABLE
PUSHROD HOOKUP
If the optimum situation doesn’t provide
enough control throw, the pushrod may be
moved inward on the control horn, but it’s
better to go farther out on the servo arm
because this will introduce less free play
than the alternative. Only after moving the pushrod all the way out on the servo arm, if you still can’t get the throw required, you’ll
have to resort to moving the pushrod closer in on the control horn. Note: If you have a computer radio, it is always desirable to
set your ATVs to 100% (or as near 100% as possible to achieve the control throw required). If setting up a model that requires
extraordinary control surface throw (for 3D fl ying for example), start by “maxing-out” your ATVs (typically 130% – 140%). Then,
the dual rates in your “normal” fl ight mode will still be acceptably high (70% – 80%) for good servo resolution.
POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS
PUSHROD HOOKUP
One particularly dangerous situation arises
when the pushrod on the servo arm is too
“far out” and the pushrod on the control
horn is too “close in.” This setup is usually
chosen by pilots who are trying to achieve
maximum, “monster” control throws for 3D
fl ight. But with your pushrods set up this way, any free play (slop) in the linkages or servo will be greatly magnifi ed, possibly
causing destructive control surface fl utter. Additionally, if you have to turn your ATVs way down for “normal” throw, the result
will be poor resolution and poor servo holding/centering capabilities. More importantly, too much force may be transmitted
back to the servo, possibly causing control surface blowback, stripped servo gears or stripped servo arms—the latter two
likely causing a crash.
Move the pushrod farther out
on the servo arm…
Long
distance
Pushrod far out
on the servo arm…
30
…But leave the pushrod in the farthest out
location on the control horn.
Short
distance
…pushrod close in
on the control horn.
❏ 4. Measure and set the low rate elevator throws and the
high and low rate throws for the rest of the control surfaces
the same way.
These are the recommended control surface throws:
3D RATE
Up
Down
ELEVATOR
RUDDER
AILERONS
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators and rudder.
2-3/4"
[70mm]
Right
[
127mm
1-1/2"
[
38mm
43°
5"
44°
Up
24°
2-3/4"
[70mm]
43°
Left
5"
]
[
127mm
44°
Down
1-1/2"
]
[
38mm
24°
HIGH RATE
Up
1-3/8"
[
35mm
20°
Right
3-1/2"
[
]
89mm
29°
Up
7/8"
[
]
22.2mm
13°
Down
1-3/8"
]
[
35mm
20°
Left
3-1/2"
]
[
89mm
29°
Down
7/8"
]
[
22.2mm
13°
LOW RATE
Up
7/8"
[
22.2mm
]
13°
Right
2-1/4"
[
57mm
]
18°
Up
3/8"
[9.5mm]
]
6°
Down
7/8"
]
[
22.2mm
13°
Left
2-1/4"
]
[
57mm
18°
Down
3/8"
[9.5mm]
6°
]
]
Assemble the Balance Stand
For your convenience, a balance stand is included with your
Reactor .60 biplane. The Reactor could be balanced the
way you probably balance most of your models (with your
fi ngertips), but once assembled, the balance stand makes
the procedure easier, faster and more accurate. One of the
advantages is that you don’t have to set the model down
to add weight and pick it up again to see the effects. And
you can stand back and get a better view of how the model
balances (nose-up, nose-down, level). All you have to do is
place the model on the stand, add weight and observe the
result. Assemble your balance stand as illustrated:
❏ 2. Glue the uprights to the sides, front and back. Glue a
doubler to each upright, then securely glue the dowels into
the rounded notches in the top of both uprights.
Balance the Model (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (center of gravity/
balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a
model fl ies and could determine whether or not your fi rst
fl ight will be successful. If you value your model and wish
to enjoy it for many fl ights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS
IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly
balanced may be unstable and possibly unfl yable.
❏ 1. If you haven’t yet marked the balance point, return to
step 1 on page 26 and mark the balance point as illustrated.
This will require removal of the top wing. At this stage the model
should be in ready-to-fl y condition with all of the components
in place including the complete radio system, engine, muffl er,
propeller, spinner, pilot and an empty fuel tank. If you’ve built
the electric version, install the motor battery.
❏ 1. Glue the side braces to the uprights—be certain to
make a right and a left!
❏ 2. Use weights or clamps to secure the balance stand
so it will not tip over. Place the model on the balance stand
with middle line on the bottom of the top wing resting on the
dowels on the top of the stand. Be certain the needle valve,
landing gear or propeller are not interfering with the stand
causing a false reading. If not using the balance stand lift the
model with your fi ngers on the middle line.
31
❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy.” The battery
pack and/or receiver could be moved forward to get the model
to balance, or weight could be added to the nose. If the nose
drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or
receiver could be moved aft, or weight could be added to the
tail. If relocating the receiver and/or battery is not practical, or
if additional weight is still required after doing so, nose weight
may be easily added by using “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645
for the 1 oz. [28g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g]
weight). If spinner weight is not practical or is not enough,
or if tail weight is required, use Great Planes “stick-on” lead
(GPMQ4485). To fi nd out how much weight is required, place
incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the fuselage
over the location where it would be mounted inside until the
plane balances. A good place to add stick-on nose weight
is to the fi rewall. Do not attach weight to the cowl—this will
cause the mounting screws to open up the holes. Once you
have determined the amount of weight required, it can be
permanently attached. If required, tail weight may be added
by cutting open the bottom of the fuselage and gluing it
permanently inside. Note: If mounting weight where it may
be exposed to fuel or exhaust, do not rely upon the adhesive
on the back to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel
and exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Instead, permanently attach the weight with
glue or screws.
❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight,
recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
PREFLIGHT
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if
you fl y somewhere on your own, you should always have your
name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or
inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club fl ying sites
and AMA sanctioned fl ying events. Fill out the identifi cation tag
on the decal sheet and place it on or inside your model.
Charge the Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night
before you go fl ying, and at other times as recommended by
the radio manufacturer.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the
next charge may be done using the fast-charger of your
choice. If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the
batteries may not reach their full capacity and you may be
fl ying with batteries that are only partially charged.
Balance the Model Laterally
❏ 1. With the wings level, lift the model by the engine propeller
shaft and the bottom of the fuselage under the trailing edge
of the fi n. Do this several times.
❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight
to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally
balanced will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
Balance Propellers
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fl y. An unbalanced prop can be the single most signifi cant
cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only
will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio
receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to
foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our fl ight box.
32
Ground Check
If using a glow engine, run the engine for a few minutes
to make sure it idles reliably, transitions smoothly and
maintains full power indefi nitely. If using an electric motor,
make sure the motor runs smooth at all RPM including fullthrottle. Afterward, inspect the model closely, making sure
all fasteners, pushrods and connections have remained tight
and the hinges are secure.
• To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fi ngers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline
powered engine an on/off switch should be connected to
the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of
a running engine.
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)
Range Check
Always ground check the operational range of your radio
before the fi rst fl ight of the day following the manufacturer’s
instructions that came with your radio. This should be done
with the engine off and with the engine (or motor) running
at various speeds. If the control surfaces do not respond
correctly, do not fl y! Find and correct the problem fi rst. Look
for loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires
on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery
pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal from
a previous crash.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
• Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or fl ames, as fuel is very fl ammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1) I will not fl y my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
air shows, or model fl ying demonstrations until it has
been proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully fl ight tested.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid fl ying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary,
an observer shall be utilized to supervise fl ying to avoid
having models fl y in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
fl ying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fl y my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fl y my model unless it is identifi ed with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note:
This does not apply to models while being fl own indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
• Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
• Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.
• Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
• Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fi ngers to fl ip the propeller. Make certain
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
• Make all engine adjustments from behind the
rotating propeller.
• The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fi re.
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the fi rst fl ight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualifi ed fl ier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all fl ying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with
fl ying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the fl ight
line. Intentional fl ying behind the fl ight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing fl ying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in fl ight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
33
CHECK LIST
FLYING
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the fi rst fl ight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before
the model is fl own. To help avoid this, a check list is provided
to make sure these important areas are not overlooked.
Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where
appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions.
Be sure to check the items off as they are completed.
❏ 1. Be certain you have checked and set the C.G. according
to the measurements provided.
❏ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted. Simply stuffi ng them into place with foam
rubber is not suffi cient.
❏ 3. If using a radio on 72 MHz, extend the receiver antenna
down through the fuselage. If using a radio on 2.4GHz,
make sure the antennas(s) are-mounted and oriented
as suggested in the instructions that came with the
radio system.
❏ 4. Make sure the model has been balanced laterally as
explained in the instructions.
❏ 5. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical fasteners
such as the screws that hold the wheel collars to the
axles, screws in any screw-lock pushrod connectors
and the screws that hold the wing struts to the mounting
tabs on the wings.
❏ 6. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely.
❏ 7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place by
tugging on the control surfaces.
❏ 8. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA
where appropriate (servo mounting screws, aileron
control horns).
❏ 9. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
❏ 10. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the clevises
and that all servo arms are secured to the servos with
the screws included with your radio.
❏ 11. Secure connections between servo wires and Y-connectors
or servo extensions, and the connection between your
battery pack and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat
shrink tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.
❏ 12. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
not kinked.
❏ 13. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 14. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 15. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone
number on or inside your model.
❏ 16. Make sure your receiver battery pack is fully charged.
❏ 17. Range check your radio when you get to the fl ying fi eld.
The Reactor .60 biplane is a great-fl ying model that fl ies
smoothly and predictably. The Reactor is, however, a very
“neutral” fl ying model that does not possess the same
“self-correcting” tendencies that a trainer model possesses
and should be fl own only by pilots who have at least been
checked out on a 4-channel low-wing, sport plane.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES):
If, while fl ying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound
such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control
surface fl utter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such
as an aileron or elevator) or a fl ying surface (such as a
wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing
the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected immediately,
fl utter can actually cause the control surface to detach
or the fl ying surface to fail, thus causing loss of control
followed by an impending crash. The best thing to do
when fl utter is detected is to slow the model immediately
by reducing power, then land as soon as safely possible.
Identify which surface fl uttered (so the problem may
be resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for
deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all
pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If it fl uttered
once, under similar circumstances it will probably fl utter
again unless the problem is fi xed. Some things which
can cause fl utter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting
control horns solidly; Poor fi t of clevis pin in horn; Sideplay of wire pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive
free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and
one of the most prevalent causes of fl utter; Flying an
over-powered model at excessive speeds.
Takeoff
If this is your fi rst biplane or 3D model, for reassurance and
to keep an eye on other traffi c, it is a good idea to have an
assistant on the fl ight line with you. Tell him to remind you to
throttle back once the plane gets to a comfortable altitude.
While full throttle may be desirable for takeoff, most models
fl y more smoothly at reduced speeds.
The Reactor .61 Bipe is an agile, lightweight model, so there
won’t be much of a takeoff roll. But it does ground-handle
extremely well—both on grass and on pavement—so takeoff
should be pretty easy. Simply point the model into the wind
and smoothly advance the throttle. If you are taking off from
grass—especially rough grass—initially hold some “up”
elevator to keep the tail on the ground until the model builds
up speed (which will be in just a second or two). Stay “on top”
of the rudder to keep the model pointing down the runway.
Allow the model to “break ground” and establish a gentle
climb. Be ready on the controls to get the model tracking
straight. Then make your fi rst turn away from the fl ight line.
If you are nervous or fi nd yourself overcorrecting, remember
to throttle back.
34
Flight
If you’re a less-experienced modeler, your fi rst priority will be
to throttle back to reach a comfortable fl ying speed where
the model will react somewhat slower than it would at fullthrottle. The next priority will be to adjust the trims to get the
model to fl y straight-and-level.
Once the model has been trimmed, continue to fl y around
for a few minutes getting used to how the model performs.
Test the Reactor’s response to the high and low rate settings.
After fl ying around for a while (and while still at a safe altitude
with plenty of fuel) practice slow fl ight and execute practice
landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see how the
model handles at slower speeds—you should be pleased!
Add power to see how the model climbs as well. Continue to
fl y around executing various maneuvers and making mental
notes (or having your assistant write them down) of what trim
or C.G. changes may be required to fi ne tune the model so
it fl ies the way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this fi rst
fl ight to become familiar with your model before landing.
Landing
Landing the Reactor .60 bipe is easy—you can slow it down
to a crawl and the wings should always remain level and the
fl ight surfaces will always have control. The only thing you
have to do is learn the glide path. On the downwind leg, cut
the throttle when at the correct altitude. Allow the nose to
drop so the plane will maintain suffi cient airspeed and simply
bring the model in. If you’re coming in a little short, simply
add throttle to stretch the landing. If coming in too hot, simply
add power and try again.
Minding the model’s airspeed and glide path, continue to
add “up” elevator until it stalls at the same time the wheels
contact the ground. Continue to practice landings until you
can bring it in on a postage stamp!
One fi nal note about fl ying your model. Have a goal or fl ight
plan in mind for every fl ight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly fi nding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you
are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A fl ight plan greatly
reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of
poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Have a ball!
But always stay in control and fl y in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
MONOKOTE TEMPLATE
(FOR FUEL TANK HATCH)
35
Cut along this line,
then mount to the
backing on orange
MonoKote.
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