Wingspan: 55in [1395mm]
Wing Area: 590 in2 [38.1 dm2]
Weight: 5.5–6.5 lb [2495–2950 g]
Wing Loading: 21–25 oz/ft2 [66–77 g/dm2]
Length: 53 in [1345mm]
Radio: 4-5 channel, 4-5 servos
Engine: 0.46–0.55 cu in [7.5–9cc] two-stroke, 0.52–0.81 cu in [8.5–13cc] four-stroke
Electric Motor: RimFire .80 [50-55-500kV] with Silver Series 60A ESC
WARRANTY
Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date
of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modifi cation. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the fi nal assembly or
material used for fi nal assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the fi nal user-assembled product. By the act of using the userassembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place
of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby
Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number,
fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem
and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the
package, the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes Extra 300SP .46
ARF. This model has been designed to excel in all aspects of
RC aerobatic fl ight. Great lengths have been taken to ensure
the Great Planes Extra 300SP .46 ARF is able to fulfi ll the
demands of the most critical modeler. Whether you desire to
use glow or electric power, design features are in place to
enhance the attributes of both power systems. Two rudder
placement locations and alternate battery mounting positions
have been included to eliminate the need for lead ballast. This
model is capable of the most extreme 3D aerobatic maneuvers,
pinpoint precision, and relaxing Sunday fl ying. Whatever your
fl ying preference, the Great Planes Extra 300SP .46 ARF is
certain to make a great addition to your hangar.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections
to the Great Planes Extra 300SP .46 ARF visit the Great
Planes web site at www.greatplanes.com. Open the “R/C
AIRPLANES” pull down tab across the top of the page, and
then select “ARFs-GLOW.” Scroll down the page and click on
“Extra 300SP .46 ARF”. If there is new technical information
or changes to this model an “Important! TECH NOTICE” box
will appear in the upper left corner of the page. Click on the
Tech Notice box to read the information.
AMA
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics)
and a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model
aviation and membership is required to fl y at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefi ts, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not
limited to fl ying at contests or on the club fi eld. It even applies
to fl ying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to
comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of
the manual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club
sites to help you get started the right way. There are over
2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number shown.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
fl ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid fl ying near or over
groups of people.
2
www.modelaircraft.org
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Great Planes Extra 300SP .46 ARF should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model
that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of
its performance capabilities, the Great Planes Extra 300SP
.46 ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly, could
possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage
to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unfl yable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in fi rst-class
condition and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel
tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
fl ight to ensure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and fl yability of your fi nished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
The recommended engine/motor size range for the Great
Planes Extra 300SP .46 ARF is noted on the cover of the
manual. Your decision basically comes down to personal
preference and what your fl ying style is. Glow engines tend
to be lighter weight and have lower initial cost. However,
they create oil residue on the underside of the airplane and
require the ongoing purchase of fuel. Electric motors will
cost more initially, but are the easiest to operate and allow
for the cleanest cowl installation. If an engine in the upper
end of the size range is used, remember that this is a scale
model that is intended to fl y at scale-like speeds, so throttle
management should be practiced.
If using the RimFire 42-60-480 brushless electric motor, you
must also purchase a 60A brushless ESC capable of handling
60A at 30V. The Great Planes SS-60 High Voltage Brushless
ESC (GPMM1850) is a suitable ESC for this motor.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your fi rst fl ights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
8. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress fl ying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
9. WARNING: The cowl and wheel pants included in this kit
are made of fi berglass, the fi bers of which may cause eye,
skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part
(wheel pant, cowl) to remove fi berglass dust, as the dust
will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a
particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and
sanding fi berglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work
area thoroughly after working with fi berglass parts.
Glow Engine Accessories
These are the items shown in the manual that were used
with the O.S.® 81FS-a (OSMG0981). If using a different glow
engine the same or similar items will also be required.
❏ Great Planes Tap and Drill Set 6-32 (GPMR8102)
❏ Tap Handle (GPMR8120)
❏ Great Planes Silicone Fuel Tubing Standard 3' (GPMQ4131)
❏ Exhaust Defl ector (HCAP2175)
❏ Suitable propeller (14x6 for O.S. .81 FS-a, APCQ1406 or
12x6 for O.S. 55AX, APCQ1206)
3
Electric Motor Accessories
Radio Equipment
These are the items shown in the manual that were used
with the RimFire .80 [50-55-500kV] (GPMG4740).
❏ Great Planes Large Electric Motor Mount (GPMG1260)
❏ Silver Series 60A ESC (GPMM1850)
❏ Silver Series ESC Programming Card (GPMM1895)
❏ Suitable propeller such as 15x7E (APCQ1830)
❏ Velcro hook & loop adhesive strips (1"x6" [25x150mm]
GPMQ4480)
There may be many different battery and propeller
combinations available that will work well with the
recommended brushless RimFire motor for this model.
However, the following setup is one that has been tested with
the Great Planes Extra 300SP .46 ARF and has proven to
have the best overall performance.
❏ Two ElectriFly
(GPMP0623) These batteries will be connected in series.
This is what is refered to as a “6S” confi guration, because
it is comprised of two 11.1V LiPo battery packs, each
consisting of three individual 3.7V LiPo cells connected
in series.
❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Series Deans
adapter (GPMM3143)
IMPORTANT: Before experimenting with different battery
combinations and connecting multiple battery packs with
adapter plugs, refer to the Battery Precautions on page 22.
If using LiPo batteries, a charger specially suited for charging
LiPo batteries is required. The Great Planes PolyCharge™ 4
(GPMM3015) is recommended for charging the batteries
recommended. The PolyCharge 4 will charge up to four
LiPo batteries simultaneously. If using the PolyCharge
4, a 12 volt source will also be required for powering the
charger. If you plan on charging four 3,200mAh batteries
simultaneously, a power source capable of delivering at
least 12.8A is required. A suitable 12V auto battery could
be used, or a portable source capable of converting 120V
AC to 12V DC such as the Rivergate 15A DC Bulldog Power
Supply (RHCP2015) is suitable. If charging only three 3,200
batteries simultaneously, the Hobbico® 12 Volt Power Supply
(HCAP0250) is also suitable.
™
3200mAh 11.1V LiPo battery packs
®
U 2 to 1 battery
The servo mounts for the Great Planes Extra 300SP .46
ARF have been sized from the factory to fi t mini size servos.
If you desire to use standard servos simply enlarge the servo
mounts to fi t. Provided below are two servo selection outlines.
The “Economy” setup is provided for the fl ier who enjoys
sport fl ying and is not concerned with a slight increase in
weight. The “Lightweight Precision” setup is provided for the
fl ier concerned with building the lightest, best performing
airplane possible.
A 4.8V NiMH or NiCd of at least 1400mAh capacity is required to
power the receiver and servos. The Hobbico HydriMax™ 4-Cell
4.8V 1400mAh 2/3A NiMH (HCAM6306) is a suitable receiver
battery pack for the Great Planes Extra 300SP .46 ARF.
When charging LiPo batteries, it is recommended that you
use a balancer. A balancer will extend the life of the batteries
as well as reduce the risk of damaging the batteries during
charging. A suitable balancer for the Great Planes ElectriFly
Power Series™ LiPo batteries is the Great Planes ElectriFly
Equinox™ LiPo Cell Balancer (GPMM3160)
If not using a balancer, one charge adapter connector
per battery is also required. For the batteries and charger
recommended, the Great Planes Banana Plugs to Deans
Male Ultra Plug® battery charging connectors can be used
(GPMM3148).
Additional Radio Accessories
Following are the servo extension wires and other radio gear
illustrated in this manual.
❏ One 8" [203mm] servo extension for the throttle servo or
ESC (FUTM4140)
❏ One 12" [305mm] servo extension for the rudder servo, if
mounting it in the reward mounting position (HCAM2100)
❏ One receiver switch harness (HCAM2400)
There is no need to use a charge receptacle with this model,
because the hatch can be easily removed to access the
radio battery.
4
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Optional Supplies and Tools
In addition to the items previously mentioned in the “Decisions
You Must Make” section, the following is a list of hardware
and accessories required to fi nish the Extra 300SP .46 ARF.
Part numbers are provided in parentheses.
Required Hardware and Accessories
❏ Suitable propeller and spare propellers
❏ R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] – HCAQ1000, or 1/2" [13mm]
– HCAQ1050)
❏ Dubro Servo Arms Super Strength, Futaba J, Long
(DUBM6670, if setting up for 3D throws)
Adhesives and Building Supplies
Here is a list of Adhesives and Building Supplies that are
required to fi nish the Extra 300SP ARF.
❏ Great Planes Pro
❏ Great Planes Pro CA Glue Thick (GPMR6014)
❏ Great Planes Pro Epoxy 6-Minute (GPMR6042)
❏ Great Planes Pro Epoxy 30-Minute (GPMR6043)
❏ Denatured Alcohol
❏ Great Planes Pro Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❏ Micro Bearing Oiler (TRIC8025)
❏ Hobby Knife with #11 blades (HCAR0101)
❏ Hobbico Steel T-pins 1-1/4" (HCAR5150)
❏ Marker
❏ Drill Bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 5/32" [4mm],
3/8" [9.6mm]
™
CA Glue Thin (GPMR6002)
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help when assembling the Extra 300SP .46 ARF.
❏ Long Nose Pliers (HCAR0625)
❏ Diagonal Pliers (HCAR0627)
❏ Phillips Head Screwdriver #1 (DTXR0174)
❏ Hobbico Flexible 18" Ruler Stainless Steel (HCAR0460)
❏ 3/8" Heat Shrink Tubing (GPMM1060)
❏ Great Planes 4-in-1 Installation Tool (GPMR8035)
❏ Hobbico Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❏ Hobbico Flexible 18" Ruler (HCAR0460)
❏ Hobbico Retractable Fabric Tape Measure (HCAR0478)
❏ Robart Build Stand (ROBP1402)
❏ Rotary Tool (DRER0550)
❏ Standard Hex Wrenches (BONR1530)
❏ Metric Hex Wrenches (BONR1510)
❏ Hemostats (BRUR1302)
❏ Stick-on Segmented Lead Weights (GPMQ4485)
❏ 2 oz. [57g] Spray CA Activator (GPMR6035)
❏ 4 oz. [113g] Aerosol CA Activator (GPMR6034)
❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Mixing Cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Denatured Alcohol
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
Covering Tools
A Top Flite® or Coverite 21ST Century® model airplane covering
iron with a protective covering sock will be necessary for
tightening any covering on the model that may have loosened
or formed wrinkles between the time of production and your
purchase. The Coverite 21ST Century iron is preferred as it
has a longer cord and a rounded, contoured shoe. A trim iron
is not as much of a necessity, but would still be very handy
for sealing the edges down inside servo openings and other
small areas.
❏ Coverite 21st Century sealing iron (COVR2700)
❏ Coverite 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
❏ Coverite 21st Century trim seal iron (COVR2750)
or
❏ Top Flite MonoKote
❏ Top Flite Hot Sock
❏ Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)
®
sealing iron (TOPR2100)
™
iron cover (TOPR2175)
• There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Self-tapping screws are designated
by a number and a length. For example,
#6 x 3/4" [19mm].
Machine screws are designated by a
number, threads per inch, and a length.
For example, 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].
Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS) are
designated by a number, threads per
inch, and a length. For example, 4-40 x
3/4" [19mm]
• When you see the term test fi t in the instructions, it means
that you should fi rst position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom fi t
the part as necessary for the best fi t.
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specifi c type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
5
• Whenever just epoxy is specifi ed you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specifi ed it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.
• The Great Planes Extra 300SP .46 ARF is factory-covered
with Top Flite MonoKote fi lm. Should repairs ever be required,
MonoKote can be patched with additional MonoKote
purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls,
but some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small
piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a
fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote is applied
with a model airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a
regular iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full
instructions for application. Following are the colors used on
this model and order numbers for six foot rolls.
Yellow (TOPQ0203)Jet White (TOPQ0204)
Metallic Blue (TOPQ0402)
Metallic Platinum (TOPQ0408)
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Extra 300SP .46 ARF are available
using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts List that
follows. The fastest, most economical service can be provided
by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site
at www.greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the
bottom of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721,
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa
number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
®
or MasterCard®
• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust angles
have been factory-built into this model. However, some
technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fl y, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason, contact
Product Support by telephone at (217) 398-8970, or by
e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.com.
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
Order Number Description How to Purchase
Missing pieces ....Contact Product Support
Instruction manual Contact Product Support
Full-size plans ........................Not available
Contact your hobby supplier for the following parts:
GPMA3217 ...... Wing Set
GPMA3218 ...... Fuselage w/Canopy Hatch
GPMA3219 ...... Tail Surface Set
GPMA3220 ...... Wing Joiner Tube
GPMA3221 ...... Cowl
GPMA3222 ...... Canopy
GPMA3223 ...... Landing Gear
GPMA3224 ...... Wheel Pants Set Left/Right
GPMA3225 ...... Decal Sheet
6
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not
of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or
missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
KIT CONTENTS
1
4
8
5
7
6
1213
2
3
11
9
10
1. Cowl
2. Hatch & Canopy
3. Fuselage
4. Landing Gear
5. Wheel Pants
6. Spinner
7. Main Wheels
8. Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevators
9. Wing Tube
10. Tailwheel Assembly
11. Rudder
12. Right Wing w/Aileron
13. Left Wing w/Aileron
7
7
SHRINK THE COVERING
❏ Examine the airframe for wrinkles in the covering or areas
where the covering isn’t adhered to the structure. Where
necessary, use a covering iron with a protective covering
sock to shrink any wrinkles and get the covering bonded to
the framework—use an iron temperature setting lower than
you normally would for MonoKote—around 300° – 325° F is
recommended. And use care over seams. If too much heat is
applied over seams and edges the covering may pull away.
Note: Lighter fl uid can be used to remove any adhesive left
from the masking tape holding the control surfaces.
❏ 3. Insert one half of each hinge into the aileron.
BUILD THE WINGS
Hinge the Ailerons
❏ 1. Drill a 5/64" [2mm] diameter hole, approximately 1/2"
[13mm] deep, in the center of each hinge slot on both the
wing and the aileron. This will allow the CA glue to properly
wick through the entire hinge.
❏ 4. Starting from the tip of the wing, insert the other half
of the hinges into the wing. Once all of the hinges have
been inserted into the wing, gently slide the wing from left
to right until the leading edge of the aileron is snug with the
trailing edge of the wing. The T-pins should provide a space
of approximately 3/64" [1.2mm] between the aileron and the
wing. Note: Do not force the hinges into the wing. If a hinge
does not easily slide into place, simply remove the aileron.
Use a hobby knife with #11 blade to widen the hinge slot
until it slides into place snugly.
❏ 2. Temporarily insert a T-pin into the middle of each hinge.
This will be used to properly align the hinge when mating the
aileron to the wing.
❏ 5. With the T-pins in place, slide the aileron until it sits
fl ush with the tip of the wing. Remove the T-pins and apply 6
888
drops of thin CA glue to each side, of each hinge. At this point
do not fl ex the hinge. Wipe off any excess CA that appears
in the gap and set the wing aside. Repeat steps 1-7 for the
other aileron and wing half. Allow the CA to cure without the
aid of activator. Once the CA has cured move the aileron
back and forth to be sure the hinge is free.
Install the Wing Dowels
❏ 1. Locate the four 1/4" x 1" [6 x 25mm] dowels. They are the
four longer dowels included in the hardware pack. Remove
the servo hatches from the underside of each wing and set
them aside. Mark the center of each wing dowel.
Install the Aileron Servos
❏ 1. Locate the servo hatch from the underside of the wing
that was set aside.
❏ 2. Test fi t the wing dowels by placing them into the holes
in the wing, up to the mark you have made.
During construction there will be several occasions where
epoxy cleanup will be necessary. Instead of wasting
whole paper towels, stack three or four paper towels on
top of each other and cut them into small squares. This
will conserve paper towels, and the little squares are
easier to use. For epoxy clean up, dampen the squares
with denatured or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
❏ 2. Trim away the covering from the servo hole as shown. If
using Futaba S9650 servos for the ailerons, you will need to
trim away the side mounts as shown.
❏ ❏ 3. Locate the four 3/4" x 1/2" x 5/16" [19 x 13 x 8mm]
blocks of wood. These will be used to hold the aileron servos
to the servo hatch. Hold the wood blocks to the servo,
making certain the block overhangs the servo on the side of
the servo that will be mounted to the hatch. Using a marker,
mark the location for the servo screws as shown.
9
❏ ❏ 4. Using a 1/16" [1.5mm] drill bit, drill a hole through
the blocks at the locations you just marked. Tap the hole by
screwing the servo mounting screws that came with your
servo into the holes and then removing them. Harden the
threads in the block by adding two drops of thin CA glue into
each hole. Set the blocks aside and allow the CA glue time
to cure. Using the hardware supplied with the servo, mount
the servo to the blocks.
❏ 5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the other aileron servo and
mounting blocks.
❏ ❏ 6. Mix together a small amount of 6 minute epoxy.
Place some of the epoxy on the wood blocks, being careful
not to get any epoxy on the servo. Place the hatch on a level
surface and place the blocks and servo on the hatch. Make
certain that the servo arm sits in the center of the opening
in the hatch. Use weight or a clamp to hold the blocks to the
hatch while the epoxy cures. Repeat this step for the other
aileron servo and hatch.
❏ ❏ 9. Hold a straight edge fl ush with the servo arm and
mark a straight line on the aileron. This is the mounting
location of the aileron control horn.
MOUNT THE HORN ALL THE WAY FORWARD
❏ ❏ 7. Using the radio and receiver, center the servo and
attach the control horn as shown. If any other arms are
present on the servo, remove them with a rotary tool or a
pair of diagonal pliers. Enlarge the last hole on the servo arm
using a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
❏ ❏ 8. Mount the servo hatch to the wing using the #2 x 3/8"
[10mm] sheet metal screws and #2 washers.
❏ ❏ 10. Place the aileron control hor n on the aileron, centering
it on the mark you made in step 15. Use a T-pin to mark the
center of the holes. Use a 1/16" [1.5mm] drill bit to drill into
the aileron at the markings you just made, being careful not
to drill all the way through the aileron. Remove the mark you
made on the aileron using some denatured alcohol.
❏ ❏ 11. Use two #2 x 3/8" [10mm] sheet metal screws to
attach the control horn to the aileron. Remove the control
horn and place 2 drops of thin CA in each hole. Wipe any
excess CA from the aileron. Allow the glue to dry and reattach
the control horn to the aileron.
10
❏ ❏ 12. Locate the two 2-56 x 6" [152mm] aileron pushrods,
2 nylon clevises, and 2 nylon FasLink™ pushrod keeper. Screw
the clevis onto the threaded end of the pushrod by rotating
the clevis 18 complete revolutions. A Great Planes 4-in-1
Installation Tool (GPMR8035) makes this task much easier.
❏ ❏ 13. Place the clevis in the control horn without snapping
it shut. Mark the center of the servo arm on the pushrod.
Remove the clevis from the horn and make a 90° bend in the
pushrod at the mark.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
Attach the Horizontal Stabilizer
❏ ❏ 14. Place a silicone clevis keeper on the pushrod. Then
place a FasLink on the pushrod and remove the excess
pushrod with a rotary tool or diagonal pliers. Connect the
clevis to the control horn but do not snap in place. Connect
the bent end to the servo. Re-center the servo and adjust
the linkage by screwing the clevis either in or out until the
aileron is straight. Once the aileron is straight, snap the clevis
in place, attach the FasLink, and slide the clevis keeper over
the clevis.
❏ 15. Repeat steps 6-14 for the other wing.
❏ 1. On the fuselage trim the covering away from the wing
tube holes, wing dowel holes, horizontal stabilizer location,
and wing bolt location as shown. Slide the wing tube through
the fuselage. Then slide the wings onto the wing tube, and
secure them using the nylon wing bolts.
❏ 2. Slide the horizontal stabilizer through the slot in the
fuselage. Using a ruler, center the trailing edge by measuring
from the fuselage to the tip of the stabilizer on both sides.
11
❏ 3. Once the trailing edge of the stabilizer has been centered,
insert a T-pin in both sides of the trailing edge as shown.
This will hold the trailing edge in place while it is aligned with
the fuselage.
covering in between the marks and the already cut portion of
the covering, remove that section of the covering. Be careful
not to cut into the wood when removing the covering.
Use a soldering iron to cut the covering. The tip of the
soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine-tip does
work best. Allow the iron to heat fully. Use a straightedge
to guide the soldering iron at a rate that will just melt
the covering and not burn into the wood. The hotter the
soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a fine cut.
Peel off the covering.
❏ 4. A mark has been provided in the center of the front
former. Insert a T-pin on this mark, attach a string or a tape
measure, and adjust the horizontal stabilizer by rotating
it until the distance to either side matches. Once you are
satisfi ed that the horizontal is aligned correctly, as shown,
place a T-pin in the leading edge of the stabilizer to mark
where it intersects the fuselage.
❏ 5. Remove the T-pins and the stabilizer. Using a straight
edge, connect the marks you made with the T-pins. If there is
❏ 6. For this step, make sure you have plenty of alcohol
and paper towels handy. Reinsert the T-pins in one side of
the horizontal stabilizer. Mix up a generous portion of 30
minute epoxy. Apply the epoxy to the top and bottom of the
stabilizer in the section that the covering has been cut away
from. Insert the stabilizer into the fuselage, mating it with the
T-pins. Wipe away any epoxy that appears around the joint
using alcohol-soaked paper towels.
12
❏ 7. View the stabilizer standing approximately 6' [2.5m]
behind the airplane. Make sure the horizontal stabilizer and
the wing are aligned. If they are not, add weight to the high
side of the horizontal stabilizer.
❏ 8. To make sure nothing has shifted, re-measure the
trailing edge of the stabilizer (Step 3) to make sure it is still
centered. Also re-measure from the trailing edge of the
stabilizer to the trailing edge of the wing (Step 4). Adjust the
horizontal stabilizer as necessary. Once you are satisfi ed that
everything is aligned, view the horizontal stabilizer again,
from the rear, to be sure it is still aligned with the wing. If
everything is aligned properly, do not disturb the model until
the epoxy has cured.
Hinge the Rudder and Elevators
❏ 1. First, locate 3 CA hinges for the rudder and place a
T-pin through the middle of each hinge. Test fi t the hinges in
the rudder to be sure there are no obstructions in the hinge
slot. If a hinge does not go in properly, use a hobby knife to
clear the slot until the hinge slides snugly in place.
❏ 3. Test fi t the tail wheel into both the fuselage and the rudder
as shown. If the tail wheel does not fi t properly, use a hobby
knife to modify the mounts so the tail wheel fi ts snugly.
❏ 4. Place a small amount of oil in the tail wheel hinge. Wipe
away any oil that gets on the nylon tab. Add a few drops of
thin CA to the tail wheel mounting hole in the rudder. Allow
the CA to fully cure before continuing.
❏ 5. Place all the hinges in the rudder up to the T-pins. Place
the tail wheel into the rudder. Mix up a small amount of 6
minute epoxy and apply it to the nylon tab on the tail wheel.
Insert the nylon tab and the hinges into the fuselage. The
bottom of the rudder should be aligned with the bottom of the
fuselage. Remove the T-pins and place 6 drops of thin CA to
both sides of the three hinges. Wipe any excess epoxy or CA
away from the hinge.
❏ 2. Clear away the covering from the bottom of the rudder
as shown.
❏ 6. Allow a few minutes for the epoxy to harden. Once the
epoxy has hardened fl ex the hinge to be sure it moves freely.
❏ 7. Locate 6 CA hinges and place a T-pin through each
one. Place 1 hinge in each slot of the elevators. Slide the
other side of the hinge into the horizontal stabilizer. Make
certain the tip of the elevator sits fl ush with the tip of the
stabilizer. Remove the T-pins and place 6 drops of thin CA on
both sides of each hinge.
13
Landing Gear Installation
❏ 1. Locate the main landing gear, axles, wheels, wheel collars,
set screws, wheel pants, and four 4-40 SHCS. Attach the axles
to the landing gear. Make a mark on the landing gear 5/16"
[8mm] from each end. Using a rotary tool make a fl at spot on
the underside of the axle from the each end to the mark.
Install the Elevator Servo
❏ 1. Make a mark on the elevator that is 1/2" [13mm] from
the inboard edge of the aileron. Mount both control horns on
the marks, using the same procedure that was used on the
aileron horn.
❏ ❏ 2. Place a wheel collar on the axle and secure it to the
inward fl at spot with the set screw. Be sure to use a drop
of thread locker on the set screw when you put it in. Place
a wheel on the axle and place another wheel collar on the
outward fl at spot. Secure the second wheel collar to the axle
using the set screw and a drop of thread locker. Repeat this
step for the other wheel and axle.
❏ 3. Mount the wheel pants using the 4-40 x 1/4" SHCS as
shown. Be sure to place a drop of thread locker on the screw
before inserting it.
❏ 2. Locate the two elevator 2-56 x 36" [914mm] pushrods.
Thread a clevis onto the end of each pushrod. Slide a silicone
clevis keeper on each pushrod and down to the clevis. Install
the pushrods by sliding them into the elevator pushrod guides
from the tail, and connecting the clevises to the horns as
shown. Do not snap the clevises shut at this point.
❏ 4. Trim the covering away from the three landing gear
mounting holes and mount the landing gear to the fuselage
using three 6-32 x 1/2" [13mm] socket head bolts.
❏ 3. Place the elevator servo in the elevator servo mounting
position as shown. Mark the location for the elevator mounting
14
screws. Using a 1/16" [1.5mm] drill bit, drill a guide hole at
the marks you just made. Install the elevator servo. Remove
the elevator servo and place 2 drops of thin CA in each of
the elevator mounting screw holes. Wait for the CA to fully
cure. Install the elevator servo with the hardware provided
with the servo.
❏ 4. Center the elevator servo using the radio and install the
servo arm. Align the servo arm perpendicular to the elevator
pushrod. Center the elevator and make a mark on one of the
elevator pushrods even with the servo arm. Slide two 5/32"
wheel collars onto the two elevator pushrods and make a 90°
bend to one of the pushrods at the location of the mark.
❏ 8. Using 6 minute epoxy, secure the nylon pushrod guide
to the pushrod guide former. Be careful not to get any of the
epoxy into the nylon pushrod guide.
Install the Hatch
❏ 5. Enlarge the hole in the servo arm using a 5/64" [2mm]
drill bit. After trimming away its excess length, run the bent
pushrod through the hole. Keep the pushrod in place using
a nylon FasLink.
❏ 6. Trim the non-bent elevator pushrod so that it is
approximately 1" [25.4mm] shorter than the bent pushrod.
Place some thread locker on to the 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm] socket
head screws. Level the two elevator halves and tighten the
socket head bolts.
❏ 1. Locate the two 3/4" [19mm] long, 1/4" [6mm] diameter
wood dowels. Test fi t the dowels by inserting them into the
holes located at the front of the hatch. The dowels should
stick about 1/2" [13mm] out from the face of the hatch.
Remove the dowels and glue them in place using a small
amount of 6 minute epoxy or thick CA.
❏ 7. Double-check to be sure the two elevator halves are
level, snap the clevises shut, and slide the silicone clevis
keepers over the clevises.
❏ 2. Locate four small magnets. Glue two of the magnets
into the magnet mounting holes located at the rear of the
15
15
hatch, using thin or thick CA. Once the CA dries, place the
remaining two magnets over the ones mounted in the hatch.
Make a mark on the unmounted magnets. This mark will be
used to determine which way the magnets should face when
they are inserted into the fuselage.
❏ 3. Using thin or thick CA, glue the unmounted magnets
into the fuselage with the marks facing into the mounting
holes. Once the CA has had time to fully cure, install the
hatch by sliding the hatch dowels into the openings in the
front former, laying the hatch on the fuselage, and sliding the
hatch toward the tail to lock it into place.
❏ 6. Lightly pull the canopy rearward against the two mounting
screws you installed. Drill a 1/16" [1.5mm] hole through the
canopy and rear mounting plates. Install the rear canopy
screws, remove them, and harden the hole with CA. Trim the
canopy screws with a rotary tool or diagonal pliers until they
sit fl ush with the inside of the canopy mounting plate.
❏ 7. If you would like to install a pilot fi gure and a scale
instrument panel, this would be the appropriate time to
mount them. Clean the inside of the canopy and install it.
View the canopy from the front, making sure the front of the
canopy sits fl ush with the hatch.
❏ 4. Locate the two plywood washers. Install the plywood
washers around the hatch alignment dowels. Press down
on the front of the hatch slightly and, using some thick CA,
tack the plywood washers in place as shown. Spray some
activator on the CA to stop it from wicking onto the hatch
dowels. Gently remove the hatch, while placing counter
pressure to the washers so they do not come unglued. With
the hatch removed, apply more thick CA or 6 minute epoxy
around the washer to fully secure it to the fuselage.
❏ 5. Locate the canopy and the four #2 x 3/8" sheet metal
screws. Install the canopy, making sure that the leading edge
of the canopy sits fl ush with the top of the hatch. Drill a 1/16
[1.5mm] hole through the canopy and through the front two
plywood mounting plates. Insert a wood screw into each
hole, remove the screws, and add two drops of thin CA to
the holes. Install the front two canopy screws.
Install the Electric Motor
and Rudder Servo
❏ 1. If you are using a glow engine instead of an electric
motor, skip ahead to page 19.
❏ 2. To use the Great Planes Large Electric Motor Mount
(GPMG1260) with this model, you’ll need to make a few
modifi cations. With a permanent marker, mark both sides of
the two motor mount pieces as shown.
❏ 3. Cut the motor mount with a hack saw or rotary tool along
the line (this will remove approximately 3/4" [19mm] from the
mount). Mount the electric motor using the 3mm machine
screws supplied with it. Be sure to use thread locker.
16
❏ 4. Loosen the socket head cap screws on the side of the
engine mount and adjust the engine mount until the distance
from the rear of the mount to the prop washer is 5-1/8" [130mm].
Re-tighten the bolts on the side of the engine mount, using
thread locker to secure the mount. Bolt the engine mount to the
front of the airframe using the four 6-32 x 1/2" [13mm] socket
head cap screws, #6 washers, and #6 lock washers provided.
into the receiver, and plugging a LiPo battery into the ESC.
Be careful!! The motor will rotate when the throttle stick
is moved. Stand clear. If the rotation of the motor is not
counter clockwise as viewed from the front of the airplane,
remove any two of the wires that connect the ESC to the
motor and swap them. Verify that the motor rotation is correct.
Disconnect the batteries and receiver. Note: If using the
Great Planes SS-60 ESC you will need to plug a battery into
the receiver, because the Great Planes SS-60 ESC does not
have a Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC).
❏ 6. Cut the hook and loop material into two 7-1/2" [190mm]
long strips. Overlap the hook and loop material 1" [25.4mm] as
shown to create a battery strap. Using thick CA, glue a small
section of the scrap hook side of the material to the battery
tray. Attach some self adhesive loop material to the underside
of the batteries. This will keep the batteries from sliding.
❏ 7. Thread the two battery straps into the slots in the battery
tray. When you are ready to fl y, use these straps to secure
the battery to the battery tray as shown.
❏ 5. Cut out the perforated portions on the underside of the
fi rewall and mount the ESC using the three #4 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
sheet metal screws and #4 washers, as shown. Remove the
ESC and harden the screw holes with thin CA. Re-mount the
ESC. Remove the prop washer and prop nut from the motor
and connect the motor to the ESC. Check the rotation of
the motor by turning on your transmitter, plugging the ESC
❏ 8. When using an electric motor it is best to mount the
rudder servo in the tray next to the elevator servo. If you do
not wish to mount the servo in the tray, skip ahead to step 5
in the “Installing the Glow Engine” section.
17
❏ 9. Installing the rudder servo in the tray is very similar to
the way the elevator servo was installed in the tray. Locate
the rudder pushrod and slide it down the rudder pushrod
guide, as shown.
❏ 10. The position of the pushrod guide exit is easily found
by lightly pushing on the rudder pushrod. Trim the covering
from around the pushrod guide exit. Center the rudder and
mark where the rudder pushrod overlaps the rudder.
❏ 12. With the rod secure, install a nylon swivel to the end of
the rod as shown. Install a clevis and clevis keeper to the end
of the pushrod and slide the pushrod into the pushrod guide.
Hook the clevis onto the nylon swivel, but do not snap it shut.
❏ 13. Place the rudder servo into the mounting tray. Mark the
mounting holes and, using a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit, drill pilot
holes for the mounting screws. Install the servo screws and
remove them. Place two drops of CA in each mounting hole.
Once the CA has cured, install the servo using the hardware
provided with the servo.
❏ 14. Center the servo and the rudder. Mark the location
where the rudder pushrod intersects the servo arm. Make a
90° bend in the pushrod at the mark. Enlarge the servo horn
hole using a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Place the bend through the
servo hole, slide the FasLink in place, and trim off the excess
pushrod. If the rudder is no longer straight when the rudder
servo is centered, adjust by rotating the clevis as required.
Once the rudder is straight, snap the clevis shut and slide
the silicone clevis retainer over the clevis.
❏ 11. Measure a second mark 5/16" [8mm] from the hinge
line, as shown. Using a 5/32" [3.6mm] drill bit, drill a hole
through the rudder at point where the two marks intersect.
Slide the 6-32 x 2" [51mm] rod through the hole and center
it. Apply a drop of thread locker to each side of the bolt and
secure it with the two 6-32 nuts and washers.
❏ 15. There is a cooling air exit provided in the bottom of
the airframe just in front of the battery tray. Cut the covering
away from this section to provide cooling for the battery,
ESC, and motor.
18
Install the Glow Engine
and Rudder Servo
❏ 1. If you have already installed the electric motor skip
ahead to the step 1 on page 21. Install the provided 2-piece
glow engine mount onto the front of the airframe using the
provided #6 x 3/4" [19mm] socket head screws, #6 washers,
and #6 lock washers. Adjust the mount so that it fi ts the width
of the glow engine being used. Be certain to keep the mount
centered on the cross hair marks etched into the fi rewall.
❏ 3. Locate the throttle servo and install it as shown, using
the hardware provided with the servo. Bend the pushrod and
adjust it so that the throttle servo can move the throttle arm
through the entire range. Connect the throttle servo to the
receiver and test the motion.
❏ 4. The recommended location for the rudder servo when
using a glow engine is on the underside of the plane. This is
done to help balance the plane. If you do not wish to mount
the rudder servo in the recommended glow setup mounting
position on the underside of the airplane, or you are installing
a lightweight engine, a second rudder servo mount has
been provided next to the elevator servo in the fuselage. The
directions for mounting the rudder servo in this position are
located in steps 7-12 in the “Installing the Electric Motor and
Rudder Servo” section.
❏ 2. Check that the distance from the rear of the engine
mount to the drive washer of the engine is 4-15/16" [125mm].
To achieve this distance with some of the larger 4-stroke
engines, it may be necessary to remove the nose wheel
mount from the upper portion of the engine mount as shown.
Mark the engine mounting holes using the Great Planes Dead
Center Hole Locator (GPMR8130). Remove the engine. Drill
and tap the holes for #6-32 bolts, making sure that the holes
are at a 90° angle to the engine mount. Attach the engine
to the engine mount using the four 6-32 x 1" [25mm] socket
head bolts, four #6 washers and four #6 lock washers. Note:
If using the O.S. 81FS-a 4-stroke engine, you will need to
remove the carburetor extension to allow for clearance of the
fuel lines.
❏ 5. Locate the rudder servo mount on the underside of the
fuselage and remove the covering from the bay as shown.
Attach a 12" [304mm] extension to the rudder servo and run
the lead through the fuselage. Place the rudder servo into the
mounting tray. Mark the mounting holes and, using a 1/16"
[1.5mm] drill bit, drill pilot holes for the mounting screws.
Install the servo screws and remove them. Place two drops
of CA in each mounting hole. Once the CA has cured, install
the servo using the hardware provided with the servo.
19
❏ 6. Locate the 6-32 x 2" [51mm] threaded rod. Draw a
line on the rudder that is 5/16" [8mm] away from the rudder
hinge line. Draw a second line that is 5/16" [8mm] from the
bottom of the rudder. Using a 5/32" [4mm] drill bit, drill a hole
through the rudder at point where the two marks intersect.
Slide the 6-32 x 2" [51mm] rod through the hole, apply a drop
of thread locker to each side of the rod and secure it with the
two 6-32 nuts and washers.
❏ 9. Center the servo and the rudder. Mark the location
where the rudder pushrod intersects the servo arm. Make a
90° bend in the pushrod at the mark. Enlarge the servo horn
hole using a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Place the bend through the
servo hole, slide the FasLink in place, and trim off the excess
pushrod. If the rudder is no longer straight when the rudder
servo is centered, adjust by rotating the clevis as required.
Once the rudder is straight, snap the clevis shut, and slide
the silicone clevis retainer over the clevis.
Install the Fuel Tank
❏ 7. Install a nylon swivel onto one side of the threaded
rod. Locate the rudder pushrod. Install the nylon clevis onto
the threaded end of the pushrod. Slide the silicone clevis
keeper over the pushrod. Using coarse sandpaper, roughen
the outside of the pushrod from the threads to 4 inches from
the threads. Clean the pushrod using alcohol.
❏ 8. Lightly coat the outside of the rough portion of the
pushrod with JB Weld (JBWR8276) or 6 minute epoxy. Slide
the 3-3/4" [95mm] long carbon tube over the pushrod leaving
approximately 1/8" [3mm] from the threads to the carbon
tube. Install the pushrod onto the nylon swivel.
VENT/PRESSURE
PICKUP TO CARB
FUELING/DEFUELING
(OPTIONAL)
FRONT VIEW
❏ 1. Locate the fuel tank. Remove all of the parts from inside
the tank. Assemble the stopper as shown. Install the stopper.
Make sure the clunks do not contact the rear of the tank. If
they do, remove the stopper assembly and trim the tubing.
Draw a mark on the rear of the fuel tank indicating which
direction is the top of the tank.
20
❏ 2. Install the fuel tank by pressing the neck of the tank
through the hole in the fi rewall. Glue the two 4-3/4" [120mm]
hardwood sticks in the locations shown using 6 minute epoxy.
Add foam (not included) around the tank as necessary to
secure the tank.
Install the Radio Gear and Cowl
❏ 2. If using an electric setup skip to step 4 in this section.
Install the hatch. Locate some stiff paper or cardboard.
Tape the cardboard to the model and make cutouts in the
cardboard for places where the cowl needs to be cut away.
Remove the engine.
❏ 3. Place the cowl over the fuselage and mark the locations
of the cardboard cutouts onto the cowl. Remove the cowl and
cut the marked areas. Install the engine and then install the
cowl. Adjust the cowl cutouts to fi t the engine. Make a large
cutout on the underside of the cowl for a cooling air exit.
❏ 1. Cut a 5-1/8" [130mm] section of hook and loop
material. Overlap the hook and loop material approximately
1" [25.4mm] as shown. Thread the hook and loop material
through the slots on the elevator servo/radio mounting tray in
the fuselage. Using foam, mount the receiver and the battery
to the tray by strapping them with the hook and loop material.
The receiver should be on top of the tray and the battery
should be on the underside of the tray.
❏ 4. Verify your engine and cowl placement by placing the
cowl over the fuse, putting the spinner back plate on the
engine or motor shaft, and aligning the cowl with the spinner.
Tape the cowl in place while it is being mounted. Drill the pilot
holes through the cowl and fuselage using a 1/16" [1.5mm]
drill bit. These holes should be 1/4" [6.4mm] back, from the
front of the fuse side. Mount the cowl using four #2 sheet
metal screws and #2 washers.
21
Mount the Prop and Spinner
❏ Put the spinner backplate onto the engine or motor
shaft. Place the prop over the spinner. Align the two spinner
mounting holes with the prop as shown. Install the motor prop
washer and nuts. Tighten the prop nuts. Install the spinner
using the two machine screws provided with the spinner. You
may need to enlarge the spinner cutouts for using different
props. This can be done with either a hobby knife or a rotary
tool. Be sure to balance the spinner once the holes have
been enlarged.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
If you’ve assembled your Extra 300SP with a glow
engine, skip directly to “Check the Control Directions”
in the next section.
Install and Connect the Motor Battery
❏ 1. Remove the propeller. IMPORTANT: Whenever setting up
or working on an electric-powered model, always remove the
propeller in case power is accidentally provided to the motor.
❏ 2. Before you can power the radio system and set up the
controls, the motor batteries will need to be charged. Never
charge the motor batteries while they are in the model. Always
remove the motor batteries from the model while charging.
IMPORTANT: If using multiple battery packs that are connected
with an adapter, never charge the batteries together through
the adapter. Always charge each battery pack separately.
Charge the batteries, then read the following precautions on
how to connect multiple packs for fl ying the model:
LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING AND USAGE
Apply the Decals
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fi ngerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water–about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and
water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the
decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer
type, submersing them in soap and water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
3. Position the decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included
with the battery. Failure to follow all instructions could cause
permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings,
and cause bodily harm!
• ONLY use a LiPo approved charger. NEVER use a NiCd/
NiMH peak charger!
• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.
• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER charge
through the “discharge” lead.
• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.
• ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match battery volts.
• ALWAYS charge in a fi reproof location.
• NEVER trickle charge.
• NEVER allow battery temperature to exceed 150°F (65°C).
• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any way
or puncture cells.
• NEVER discharge below 2.5V per cell.
• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave
unattended during charge or discharge.
• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
22
BATTERY PRECAUTIONS
L
There are two ways to connect multiple battery packs: In
Series and in Parallel.
These are two 3200mAh batteries (one 11.1V
and the other 7.4V). When joined in SERIES,
the result will be a 18.5V, 3200 mAh battery.
11.1V (3-Cell)
GPMP0613
7.4V (2-Cell)
GPMP0613
It’s okay to connect batteries with different voltages in
series to achieve the new, desired voltage.
OKAY
This is a SERIES battery
adapter (GPMM3143)
that connects two
batteries in series.
❏ 1. Connecting batteries in “Series” means to connect the
(+)’s to the (–)’s and the (–)’s to the (+)’s. This combines the
voltages of the batteries, but the capacity remains the same
.
These two 1500mAh batteries (both 11.1V) are
being joined in PARALLEL. The result will be
one 11.1V, 3000mAh battery.
OKAY
NO!!!
11.1V (3-Cell)
3200mAh
Different
capacities
NEVER connect battery packs with different capacities in
series or in parallel.
Check the Control Directions
❏ 1. IMPORTANT: If your Extra is powered by an electric
motor, remove the propeller if you haven’t done so already.
❏ 2. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
❏ 3. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
11.1V (3-Cell)
1250mAh
11.1V (3-Cell)
GPMP0613
11.1V (3-Cell)
GPMP0613
This is a PARALLEL battery
adapter (GPMM3142) that
connects two batteries in parallel.
❏ 2. Connecting batteries in “Parallel” means to connect the
(+)’s to the (+)’s and the (-)’s to the (-)’s. This combines the
capacities of the batteries, but the voltage remains the same.
NO!!!
11.1V (3-Cell)
Different
voltages
NEVER connect battery packs with different voltages
in parallel! Only combine them in series. Otherwise, the
batteries with lower voltage will try to “equalize” with the
batteries that have a higher voltage. Current will fl ow from
the higher voltage battery into the lower one, essentially
“charging” the lower voltage battery pack. This situation will
likely cause heat and possibly a fi re.
3200mAh
7.4V (2-Cell)
3200mAh
PARALLE
adapter
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
RIGHT AILERON
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
FULL
THROTTLE
❏ 4. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram.
If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use
the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
23
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
Set the Control Throws
Balance the Model (C.G.)
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow or a ruler to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface as
indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not have
dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the low rate
setting. NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part
of the elevators, rudder and ailerons.
These are the recommended high and low rate control
surface throws. If setting up your model with 3D
throws for extreme aerobatics, refer to the 3D chart:
LOW RATE
ELEVATOR: 3/8" [9.5mm], 6° up3/8" [9.5mm], 6° down
RUDDER:2" [51mm], 16° left
2" [51mm], 16° right
AILERONS:3/8" [9.5mm], 6° up
3/8" [9.5mm], 6° down
HIGH RATE
ELEVATOR: 3/4" [19mm], 11° up
3/4" [19mm], 11° down
RUDDER:2-3/4" [70mm], 22° left2-3/4" [70mm], 22° right
AILERONS:3/4" [19mm], 14° up3/4" [19mm], 14° down
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point)
can have the greatest effect on how a model fl ies, and
may determine whether or not your fi rst fl ight will be
successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many fl ights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unfl yable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fl y condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine, propeller
and spinner, landing gear, and the complete radio system.
Electric-powered models should balanced with the fl ight
batteries installed, but not connected.
3-3/4" [95mm]
3D CONTROL THROWS
Unless you are an extremely experienced 3D pilot, if
setting up your Extra 300S .46 with 3D throws, you
should be able to switch to high or low rate throws during
fl ight in case you fi nd the 3D throws too extreme.
ELEVATOR: 3" [76mm], 51° up3" [76mm], 51° down
RUDDER:5" [127mm], 44° left
5" [127mm], 44° right
AILERONS:1-3/8" [34.5mm], 26° up
1-3/8" [34.5mm], 26° down
IMPORTANT: The Great Planes Extra 300SP .46 ARF has
been extensively fl own and tested to arrive at the throws
at which it fl ies best. Flying your model at these throws
will provide you with the greatest chance for successful
fi rst fl ights. If, after you have become accustomed to the
way the Extra 300SP fl ies, you would like to change the
throws to suit your taste, that is fi ne. However, too much
control throw could make the model diffi cult to control, so
remember, “more is not always better.”
❏ 1. If you will be using a Great Planes C.G. Machine, set
the rulers to 3-3/4" [95mm]. If not using a Great Planes C.G.
Machine, slide the wings together with the aluminum joiner.
Use a straightedge and a fi ne-point felt-tip pen to mark the
balance point on the top of both wings 3-3/4" [95mm] back
from the leading edges where they meet the fuselage. Place
1/16" to 1/8" [1.5 to 3mm] strips of tape over the lines you
marked so you will be able to feel the balance point with your
fi ngers when lifting the model to balance.
This is where your model should balance for the fi rst
fl ights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting
the C.G. up to 1/2" [12mm] forward or 3/4" [19mm] back
to change the fl ying characteristics. Moving the C.G.
forward may improve the smoothness and stability, but
the model may then require more speed for takeoff and
make it more diffi cult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G.
aft makes the model more maneuverable, but could also
cause it to become too diffi cult to control. In any case,
start at the recommended balance point and do not at
any time balance the model outside the specifi ed range.
❏ 2. Join the wings to the fuselage. With all parts of the
model installed (ready to fl y) and an empty fuel tank (or with
the batteries installed for electric models), place the model
upside-down on a Great Planes CG Machine; or, turn it over
and lift it upside down placing your fi ngers on the thin strips
of tape at the balance point you marked.
24
❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must
be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the model
is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver must be
shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to balance. If
possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver to minimize
or eliminate any additional ballast required. If additional
weight is required, use Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick
on” lead. A good place to add stick-on nose weight is to the
back of the fi rewall inside the fuselage (don’t attach weight
to the cowl—it is not intended to support weight). Begin
by placing incrementally increasing amounts of weight on
the fuselage over the location where it will be permanently
attached inside the model until you can get it to balance.
Once you have determined the amount of weight required, it
can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight may be
added by cutting open the bottom of the fuselage and gluing
it permanently inside.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or
epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
Charge the Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night
before you go fl ying, and at other times as recommended by
the radio manufacturer.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will "condition" the batteries so that the
next charge may be done using the fast-charger of your
choice. If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger, the
batteries may not reach their full capacity and you may be
fl ying with batteries that are only partially charged.
Balance Propellers
❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight,
recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
Balance the Model Laterally
❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuselage under the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer.
Do this several times.
❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight
to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally
balanced will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
PREFLIGHT
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fl y. An unbalanced prop can be the single most signifi cant
cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only
will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio
receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to
foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or
quit. We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our fl ight box.
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fl y somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
fl ying sites and AMA sanctioned fl ying events. Fill out the
identifi cation tag on the decal sheet and place it on or inside
your model.
Ground Check
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confi rm
that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly
to full power and maintains full power—indefi nitely. After you
run the engine on the model, inspect the model closely to make
sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop
is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.
25
Range Check
Ground check the operational range of your radio before the
fi rst fl ight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control surfaces
do not respond correctly, do not fl y! Find and correct the
problem fi rst. Look for loose servo connections or broken
wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder
joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged
receiver crystal from a previous crash.
These precautions apply only to electric-powered models:
• Always remove the LiPo battery from the plane
before charging.
• Always use a charger designed to charge LiPo batteries for
charging the LiPo fl ight battery.
• Never leave the LiPo battery unattended while charging. If
the battery becomes hot, discontinue charging.
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
ELECTRIC MOTOR & ENGINE
SAFETY PRECAUIONS
The following precautions apply both to electric
motors and gas and glow engines. Failure to follow
these safety precautions may result in severe injury
to yourself and others.
• Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or fl ames, as fuel is very fl ammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
• Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
• Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.
• Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
• Use a "chicken stick" or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fi ngers to fl ip the propeller. Make certain
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
• Make all engine adjustments from behind the
rotating propeller.
• The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fi re.
• To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer's
recommendations. Do not use hands, fi ngers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline
powered engine an on/off switch should be connected to
the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of
a running engine.
1) I will not fl y my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model fl ying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully fl ight tested.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid fl ying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary,
an observer shall be utilized to supervise fl ying to avoid
having models fl y in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
fl ying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fl y my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fl y my model unless it is identifi ed with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note:
This does not apply to models while being fl own indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the fi rst fl ight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualifi ed fl ier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all fl ying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with
fl ying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the fl ight
line. Intentional fl ying behind the fl ight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three miles
of any pre-existing fl ying site except in accordance with
the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the complete
AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in fl ight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
26
CHECK LIST
FLYING
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the fi rst fl ight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before
the model is fl own. To help avoid this, a check list is provided
to make sure these important areas are not overlooked.
Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where
appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions.
Be sure to check the items off as they are completed.
❏ 1. Fuel proof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust residue
such as the cowl mounting blocks, wing saddle area, etc.
❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely mounted
in the fuse. Simply stuffi ng them into place with foam
rubber is not suffi cient.
❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a
strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the
solder joint inside the receiver.
❏ 5. Balance your model laterally as explained in the instructions.
❏ 6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel
axles to the struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm
(if applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely.
❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
❏ 10. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the clevises
and that all servo arms are secured to the servos with
the screws included with your radio.
❏ 12. Secure connections between servo wires and
Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable
for that purpose.
❏ 13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
❏ 14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffl er with
high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or
J.B. Weld.
❏ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
not kinked.
❏ 16. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 17. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 18. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone
number on or inside your model.
❏ 19. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
❏ 20. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your fi rst fl ight.
❏ 21. Range check your radio when you get to the fl ying fi eld.
27
Mount the Wing
Mount the wings to the fuselage. It will be helpful to have
a Great Planes 4-in-1 Installation Tool for tightening the
wing bolts (GPMR8035). Don’t forget to connect the aileron
servo extensions to the Y-connector coming from the aileron
channel in the receiver. Be sure the wires will not get caught
on any of the servos or pushrods inside the fuselage. If your
Extra is powered by an electric motor, be certain the batteries
are securely strapped into place. Mount the canopy hatch
with the screws and a drop of threadlocker on the threads.
The Great Planes Extra 300SP .46 ARF is a great-fl ying model
that fl ies smoothly and predictably. The Extra does not, however,
possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C
trainer and should be fl own only by experienced R/C pilots.
Fuel Mixture Adjustment (Glow Engines)
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture should
be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm below
peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you will help
prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating.
Takeoff
Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds on
the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on the
ground. If necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model will
roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your nerves
before the maiden fl ight, shut the engine down and bring the
model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, and then check all
fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re ready, point
the model straight down the runway, and hold a bit of up
elevator to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail wheel
steering. Then gradually advance the throttle. As the model
gains speed, decrease up elevator, allowing the tail to come
off the ground. One of the most important things to remember
with tail-draggers that have big engines is to always be ready
to apply right rudder to counteract engine torque. Gain as
much speed as your runway and fl ying site will practically
allow before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into
the air. At this moment it is likely that you will need to apply
more right rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on
the elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle
climb to a safe altitude before turning into the traffi c pattern.
Flight
Landing
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffi c, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the fl ight line with you. Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fl y more smoothly at reduced speeds.
Take it easy with your Extra 300SP for the fi rst few fl ights,
gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain confi dence.
Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level fl ight. After
fl ying around for a while, and while still at a safe altitude
with plenty of fuel, practice slow fl ight and execute practice
landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see how
the model handles at slower speeds. Add power to see
how she climbs as well. Continue to fl y around, executing
various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your
assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may
be required to fi ne tune the model so it fl ies the way you like.
Mind your fuel level, but use this fi rst fl ight to become familiar
with your model before landing.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while fl ying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such
as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface
fl utter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an
aileron or elevator) or a fl ying surface (such as a wing
or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the
noise). In extreme cases, if not detected immediately,
fl utter can actually cause the control surface to detach
or the fl ying surface to fail, thus causing loss of control
followed by an impending crash. The best thing to do
when fl utter is detected is to slow the model immediately
by reducing power, then land as soon as safely possible.
Identify which surface fl uttered (so the problem may
be resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for
deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all
pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If it fl uttered
once, under similar circumstances it will probably fl utter
again unless the problem is fi xed. Some things which
can cause fl utter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting
control horns solidly; Poor fi t of clevis pin in horn; Sideplay of wire pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive
free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and
one of the most prevalent causes of fl utter; Flying an
over-powered model at excessive speeds.
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward
to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but
maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto
the crosswind leg. Make your fi nal turn toward the runway
(into the wind) keeping the nose down to maintain airspeed
and control. Level the attitude when the model reaches the
runway threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary to
maintain your glide path and airspeed. If you are going to
overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on
the right rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to make
another attempt. When you’re ready to make your landing fl are
and the model is a foot or so off the deck, smoothly increase
up elevator until it gently touches down. Once the model is
on the runway and has lost fl ying speed, hold up elevator to
place the tail on the ground, regaining tail wheel control.
One fi nal note about fl ying your model. Have a goal or fl ight
plan in mind for every fl ight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly fi nding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you
are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A fl ight plan greatly
reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of
poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control
and fl y in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
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