Great Planes GPMA0550 User Manual

INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co., Inc. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both
material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component
parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost
of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty

without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly,

no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the

final user-assembled product.

By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, he
is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST

IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS

CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL

SPT1P02

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ............................ 3

Precautions...................................... 3

Other Items Required ...................... 3

Supplies and Tools Needed ............ 4

Abbreviations .................................. 4

Types of Wood ................................ 4

Decisions You

Die Patterns .................................... 5

Get Ready to Build .......................... 6

TAIL FEATHERS ............................ 6

Build the Fin and Rudder ................ 6

Build the Stabilizer and Elevator...... 7

Cut the Hinge Slots.......................... 8

SPORT WING ASSEMBLY ............ 9

Build the Inner Wing Panel .............. 9

Build the Outer Wing Panel.............. 14

Join the Wing Panels ...................... 15

Must

Make Now

......

4

Install Radio Gear ............................ 44

Install The Spoilers .......................... 47

Control Throws ................................ 47

Control Surface Mixing .................... 47

Balance The Model .......................... 47

Final Hookups and Checks .............. 48

PRE-FLIGHT.................................... 48

Charge the Batteries ........................ 48

Find a Safe Place to Fly.................... 48

Range Check Your Radio ................ 49

AMA Safety Code............................ 49

General ............................................ 49

Radio Control.................................... 49

FLYING ............................................ 49

Trim Flights ...................................... 49

Your First Hi-Start Launch ................ 50

ADVANCED WING ASSEMBLY .... 20

Build the Inner Wing Panel .............. 20

Build the Outer Wing Panel.............. 26

Join the Wing Panels ...................... 28

Install Aileron Servos ...................... 30

Install Flap Torque Rods.................. 32

Aileron / Flap Assembly .................. 33

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY ................ 34

Assemble Fuselage Sides .............. 34

Frame-up the Fuselage .................. 35

Assemble the Cockpit/Canopy ........ 39

FINAL ASSEMBLY ........................ 41

Balance the Airplane Laterally ........ 41

Mount the Tail Surfaces .................. 42

Final Sanding .................................. 43

Covering .......................................... 43

Checking for Warps ........................ 43

Hinge the Control Surfaces.............. 44

First Flights ...................................... 50

FLAPS, CAMBER CHANGING AND

CROW MIXING ................................ 51

Launching ........................................ 51

Flying ................................................ 51

Landing ............................................ 51

THERMAL FLYING.......................... 51

Facts About Thermals ...................... 51

Thermal Soaring .............................. 52

Pointers for Contest Flying .............. 53

SLOPE SOARING............................ 53

Flying ................................................ 53

Slope Landings ................................ 54

BALLASTING .................................. 54

BUILDING NOTES .......................... 54

PARTS LIST .................................... 55

2-VIEW DRAWING .......................... 56

2

WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!

The model you will build from this kit is not a toy' It is capable of serious bodily harm and property damage. IT IS

YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE - to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and to

test the model and fly it ONLY with experienced, competent help in accordance with all safety standards and common
sense as set down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code It is suggested that you join the AMA to become
properly insured before you attempt to fly the model IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR
LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED

INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252(800) 435-9262

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations! You now own a revolutionary sailplane
kit! A bold statement indeed, but no other sailplane kit has ever
been able to satisfy so many desires. No matter what your skill
level - rank beginner or national soaring champion you will enjoy
this kit from the moment you start construction.

Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes SPIRIT 100

sailplane.

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build!
If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have
any questions about building or flying this airplane, please
call

us at

(217)

398-8970
calling for replacement parts, please look up the part num­bers and the kit identification number (stamped on the end of
the carton) and have them ready when calling.

PRECAUTIONS

1. You must build the plane according to the plans and in-

structions. Do not alter or modify the model as doing so may

result in an unsafe or un-flyable model In a few cases the plans
and instructions may differ slightly from the photos In those in­stances you should assume the plans and written instructions

are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
condition and meets or exceeds "1991 specs".

4. You must properly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates properly on the ground and in the air.

and

we'll

be glad to help.

If

you are

6. You must fly the model only with the competent help of a
well experienced R/C pilot if you are not already an experienced
and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time.

Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with
a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and "flyabilily" of your finished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model, and
no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safely of your completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end up
with a well-built model that is straight and true.

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

0 Radio having at least 2 channels (a third channel is required
for optional spoilers and a 4 channel radio with 5 servos is
required for the advanced wing) A computer radio or compa­rable radio with mixing capabilities may be used to achieve total
camber control and CROW type mixing

0 Monokote or other covering material (2 rolls)

0 Latex foam rubber padding (1/4" thick)
0 #64 rubber bands
0 Heavy duty hi-start or other launching device
0 BB's or lead shot for balancing
0 Thin but strong thread - 30 (2 - 4lb fishing line works great)
0 Pushrods (Sullivan #503 or equivalent)
0 Hinges

The optional spoilers also require:

0 2 - 36" lengths of 20-30 lb fishing line
0 2 - 36" lengths of 1/8 " plastic tubing

5. You must test the operation of the model before the first and
each successive flight to insure that all equipment is operating,
and you must make certain the model has remained structurally
sound. Be sure to check the nylon clevises often, and replace if
they show signs of wear.

The advanced wing also requires:

0 Thin copper wire or similar (for wrapping flap linkage)
0 2 - 36" servo extensions (or equivalent)
0 2 or 3 -12" servo extensions

3

SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED

0 2 oz Thin CA Adhesive
0 2 07 Medium or Thick CA Adhesive
0 2 5 oz 5-Minute Epoxy
0 Hand or Electric Drill
0 Drill Bits 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 11/64, 13/64" & 1/4"
0 Sealing Iron
0 Heat Gun
0 Soldering Iron (Advanced wing)
0 Razor Saw
0 Hobby Knife, #11 Blades
0 Pliers

0 Screw Drivers
0 T-Pins
0 Assorted Rubber Bands
0 Straightedge
0 Drafting Triangle
0 Masking Tape
0 Cellophane Tape
0 Vinyl Tape
0 Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*

0 T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
0 Waxed Paper
0 Lightweight Balsa Filler
0 2-56 Tap, Tap Wrench
0 1/4 20 Tap (for bolt on wing option)
0 Dremel Moto Tool or Similar (optional)

*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11 T-Bar sanders,
equipped with #50, #80, #100 and #150-gnt sandpaper This
setup is all that is required for almost any sanding task We also
keep some #320-grt wet-or dry sandpaper handy for finish
sanding before covering

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS
BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:

Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)

Lt = Left
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right

Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
" = Inches
Tri = Triangle

TYPES OF WOOD

DECISIONS

YOU MUST

MAKE NOW

WING CONFIGURATION

The SPIRIT 100 kit has two different wing options

The SPORT wing uses the Selig 3010 airfoil, has

optional spoilers and is recommended for novice sailplane
pilots This wing is easy to build, easy to fly and offers
great all-around performance without requiring expen­sive radio equipment The spoilers arc highly recom­mended as they make it much easier to land in smaller
spaces or to lose altitude in a safe controlled manner

The ADVANCED wing utilizes the Selig Donovan

7037 airfoil along with flaps and ailerons to provide
incredible thermal soaring performance This wing is
designed to be built with polyhedral which has been

found to work great - enabling the Spirit 100 to thermal
very tightly in low level thermals "Straight wing"
enthusiasts can cut their own polyhedral braces to elimi­nate the polyhedral if they desire Computer radios and
radios with mixing capabilities can be used to obtain
total camber control (the whole trailing edge will raise or
lower together) and CROW (the ailerons raise about 75
degrees and the flaps drop almost 90 degrees) The SD
7037 airfoil, combined with total camber control, gives
you a sailplane that has an incredible L/D, yet will really
slow down and float when the whole trailing edge is
dropped about 3/32 This feature enables the Spirit 100
to out thermal any other plane in its class

RUBBER BAND OR BOLT-ON WING

Parts are included to build cither a rubber band on
wing or a bolt-on wing held in place with four 1/4-20
nylon bolts

The rubber band on wing is easier to build and will
absorb hard landings better so we recommend it tor less
experienced builders

The bolt on wing offers less drag and more precise at-

tachment It is recommended for the advanced wing and

the serious contest flyer

4

DIE PATTERNS

SPT1W01 4 PER KIT SPT1F01 2 PER KIT

BALSA 1/16- X 2-6/8" X 1/8"

SPT1W02 2 PER KIT

BALSA 1/8" X 2-6/8" X 16"

SPT1W01

SPT1F03

BALSA 1/8" X 4" X 24"

2 PER

KIT

SPT1W03 2 PER KIT

BALSA 1/16" X 2-5/8" X 16"

2

SPT1W04

BALSA 1/16" X 2-6/8" X 16-

SPT1W06

BALSA 1/16" X 2-6/8" X 16"

SPT1W06

BALSA 1/8" X 2-6/8" X 16"

SPT1W07

BALSA 1/16" X 2-6/8" X 16"

SPT1W08 2 PER KIT

PER KIT

4

PER KIT

2

PER

KIT

2

PER KIT

BALSA 3/32- X 3-1/2" X 27"

SPT1F05

SPT1W09 1 PER KIT

PLY 1/16" X 4-1/2" X 12"

SPT1W11 2 PER KIT

SPT1F07

BALSA 3/32" X 2-6/8" X 16"

BALSA 3/32" X 3" X 22"

SPT1F08

PLY 1/16" X 4-1/2" X 18"

2 PER KIT

WING SADDLE TRIPLER

REAR FUSE DOUBLER

SPT1F17

PLY

1/8" X 4- X 12"

1

PER

1

1

PER KIT

PER

KIT

KIT

BALSA 1/16" X 2-6/8" X 16"

SPT1W21 1 PER KIT

BALSA 1/16" X 3" X 18"

SPT1F02

BALSA 1/8" X 3-1/2" X 30"

SPT1F06

BALSA 3/32" X 3" X 30"

SPT1F04

PLY

1/8" X 3" X 21"

2

PER KIT

1

PER

KIT

PLY

1/8" X 3"

SPT1W10

SPT1W22 1 PER KIT

X 16"

1

PER

KIT

2 PER

PLY 1/32" X 3-3/4" X 12"

PLY

1/8" X 4- X 12"

KIT

GET READY TO BUILD

NOTE: It will be helpful to build on a piece of "Celotex" or other

semi-soft (and flat) surface, into which you may easily stick pins
to firmly hold down the parts while building, and to avoid warps.

D 1. Unroll the plan sheet. Re-roll the plan inside out and let

it uncurl while you read through this instruction book. This will
help the plan lay flat and you to get acquainted with the building
process. NOTE,: Because there are several options to con-

sider when building the SPIRIT 100, you should read the
instruction book through before building and then go back
and cross off the steps you won't use to build your model.

D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the

name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts list
at the back of this book. Write the part name or size on each piece
to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on page
5 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them. If any of the die-cut
parts arc difficult to punch out during construction, do not force
them! Instead, first cut around the parts with a hobby knife. After
punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block
to lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

Tips (SPT1S02) to make the Rudder and Fin Framework.
Notice that the fin leading edge extends down into the fuse so cut

it long enough to extend past the fuse bottom. It will be trimmed

off

flush

with

the

fuse

bottom

the plan and glue the parts together using thin CA glue.
CAUTION: Do not glue the fin to the rudder! Cut the notch

near the back of the fin bottom so it will fit over the stab.

D 3. From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" Balsa Tail Rib Sticks (SPT1S04),
cut

the

"ribs"

to

fit

inside

them in place. Cut the gussets from the 1/4" x 3/4" x 24" Balsa
Tail Tips Stick (SPT1S02) and glue them in place.

the

later

rudder

Pin

and

fin

these pieces

framework,

in

place on

and

glue

"TAIL FEATHERS"

BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER

You'll need the following pans:

SPT1S01 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" Balsa Tail Frame
SPT1S02 1/4" x 3/4" x 24" Balsa Tail Tips
SPT1S04 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" Balsa Tail Ribs

D 1. Tape or pin the plan down to your flat work surface. Tape
a piece of waxed paper over the fin and rudder portion of the plan

(so you don't glue the parts to the plan).

D 4. Remove the fin and rudder assemblies from the plan and
examine them for any open or bad joints. Fill any gaps with
medium or thick CA, then use your sanding block with medium
grit sandpaper to sand both sides of the framework smooth.

D 2. Using the plan as a guide, cut pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" x 30"
Balsa Tail Frame (SPT1S01) and 1/4" x 3/4" x 24" Balsa Tail

D 5. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of the
rudder. This will help to maintain symmetry when sanding.

6

D 6. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-gnt) sandpa­per, sand the leading edge of the rudder to the V-shape as shown
on the plans (a small razor plane works great for initial shaping).

Sand the three remaining edges to a smooth rounded shape.*
Sand the top and the leading edge of the fin to a nice rounded
shape. The leading edge of the fin extends down through the fuse
so you don't need to sand below the edge of the fin bottom.

NOTE: The trailing edge of the FIN must remain square, do
not sand it!

D 1. Tape waxed paper over the stabilizer drawing on the
plan. Cut the leading and trailing edges from the 1/4" x 1/2" x

30" Balsa Tail Frame Stick (SPT1S01). Cut the lips from the
1/4" x 3/4" x 24" Balsa Tail Tips Stick (SPT1S02) and cut the
centerpieces from the 1/4" x 1" x 15" Balsa Stab Center Piece
Stick (SPT 1 S03). Pin these pieces in place over the plan and add
thin CA to each joint.

D 7, Cut two 6" lengths of 1/4" Balsa Triangle(BAL141)and
glue them along the bottom of the fin. The bottom edges of the

triangle should be flush with the bottom of the fin. Sand the

triangle stock to blend with the leading and trailing edges of the
fin. Also, cut or sand the bottom of the triangle stock to match the
notch in the 1/4" balsa fin bottom.

* MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE TIP - Sand both sides of the

rudder to a taper as shown on the plans. This requires a little more

work but will help to reduce drag and thus increase performance

of the sailplane.

D 2. Cut the "ribs" from the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" Balsa Stick

(SPT 1 S04) and glue them in place.

D 3. Pin or tape the 1/4" Balsa Tapered Elevator (SPT1 S05)

in place behind the stab and use your razor saw to cut the ends off
to match the angle of the stab lips.

BUILD THE STABILIZER AND ELEVATOR

You'll need the following parts:

SPT1S01 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" Balsa Tail Frame

SPT1S02 1/4" x 3/4" x 24" Balsa Tail Tips
SPT1S03 1/4" x 1" x 15" Balsa Stab Center Piece
SFT1S04 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" Balsa Tail Ribs

SPT1S05 1/4" Balsa Tapered Elevator

D 4. Remove the slab from ihc plan and examine it for any
open or bad joints. Fill any gaps with medium or thick CA, then

7

use your sanding block with medium grit sandpaper to sand both
sides smooth.

D 5. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of the

stab (this will help to maintain symmetry when sanding).

D 6. Tape the elevator to the stab with masking tape and using

a sanding block with coarse (50 or 80-grit) sandpaper, sand the
leading edge of the stab, the stab tips and the elevator tips to a
smooth rounded shape. The tips of the elevator should blend in

nicely with the stab tips. NOTE: The trailing edge of the STAB

must remain square, do not sand it!

D 7. Remove the elevator and draw a center line down its

leading edge. Use your sanding block to sand the same V-shape
as you did on the rudder. The trailing edge should also be sanded
to a smooth rounded shape.

CUT THE HINGE SLOTS (Do not glue)

CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care when cut­ting hinge slots with a hobby knife, to avoid cutting
yourself! If the balsa part breaks while you are
pushing on the knife, the blade could go into your hand
before you know it! A good precaution is to wear
leather gloves while performing the following steps.

D 2. Cut the hinge slots on the accurate centerlines which

you previously drew using a hobby knife. (The recommended

hinge slotting technique is listed below).

NOTE: Due to the many types of hinges available and the fact
that everybody seems to have their own favorite, we did not
include hinges in this kit. We can however, highly recommend

the "laminated" type hinges that you install with thin CA, Our
R&D department has thoroughly tested these hinges and found
them to be easy to install and sufficiently strong and durable for
this type of airplane. However, as the kit builder, you are

reminded that you are ultimately responsible for the structural

integrity of your aircraft. If you are not confident using this type

of hinge, please feel free to use your favorite hinge. The hinge
slots for this type of hinge can be cut now or you can wait and cut
them alter the surfaces are covered.
The following instructions explain how to install most hinges.

A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at the
hinge location. This first cut is to establish your cut in the
right place, so concentrate on staying on the centerline and
don't cut too deep!

B. Make three or four more cuts in the same line, going
slightly deeper each time. As you make these additional
cuts, work on going straight into the wood. Continue this
process while "wiggling" the knife handle forward and
backward until the blade has reached the proper depth for
the hinge.

C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is difficult
to push in, re-insert the knife and move it back and forth in
the slot a few times to enlarge the slot.

D 3. Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the rudder and

elevator in place on the fin and stab. Do not glue the hinges until
after you have covered the model. Hinge gluing instructions are
included later.

D 1. Lay the rudder and elevators on the plan and mark the

hinge locations. Place the rudder against the fin TE and transfer
the marks over to the fin. Place the elevator against the stab TE
and transfer the marks over to the stab.

IF YOU HAVE DECIDED TO BUILD

THE ADVANCED WING PLEASE

SKIP TO PAGE 20.

8

SPORT WING ASSEMBLY

D 1. Tape the plan to your flat work surface and cover the
wing drawing with waxed paper. NOTE: If your work space

is limited, you may cut the wing drawings apart from the rest of
the plans.

D 4. Punch out the two Rib Gauge Pieces (SPT1W22) and

assemble them using CA. Notice that one end of the gauge is
slanted at a 3-1/2 degree angle for positioning the end ribs. The
other 3 ends are perpendicular and can be used to keep parts 90
degrees to the work surface.

D 2. The Shaped Wing Leading Edges (SPT1W14) are fas-

tened together by thin strips of balsa. Separate them by carefully

cutting between the LE'S, with the knife resting against the LE
as a guide. Do not cut vertically at the edge of the LE or it will end
up too narrow. Allow the cut to follow the cross sectional shape
of the LE. Sand away any excess balsa that remains along the
edges using a sanding block with 100-grit sandpaper, but do not
"square off the edges.

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WILL WILL RESULT IN A

STRAIGHT WING

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

WARPED WING

BUILD THE INNER WING PANEL

You'll need the following parts:

SPT1W01 1/16" Balsa DC Wing Ribs - W2S, W2SS
SPT1W02 1/8" Balsa DC Wing Ribs - W1S, W3S
SPT1W03 1/16" Balsa DC Wing Ribs - W4S, W6S,

W7S, W9S

SPT1W04 1/16" Balsa DC Wing Ribs - W2SA & B,

W5S,W8S,W10S
SPT1W12 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" Basswood Inner Spars
SPT1W14 Shaped Balsa Leading Edge
SPT1W15 11/32" Balsa Notched Inner TE/Flap
SPT1W20 1/16" x 3" x 30 Balsa Wing Bottom Sheet
SPT1W22 1/8" Ply DC Clamps and Gauges
SPT1W24 1/16" Balsa Shear Web Pack (26)

D 1. Locate all the SPT1W01, SPT1W02, SPT1W03, and

SPT1W04 die-cut rib sheets. Check to make sure you can read

the embossing on each rib. If you can not, use the die patterns on
page 5 to determine the rib #'s and mark the #'s on the ribs.
Carefully punch out all the die-cut balsa wing ribs. Sand the
edges slightly to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

D 3. Before using the 1/8" x 3/8" Basswood Spars, examine
them carefully for possible imperfections. Look for knots, soft
spots, diagonal grain and any other imperfections. If possible,
position each spar so the imperfections are on the outer half of the
wing panel (toward the lip), where they will be least affected by
high stress. If the spars are warped slightly, "balance them out"
by installing the warped spars in opposite directions (see sketch).

NOTE: If you are installing spoilers, cut out the
embossed area on the two W2SS ribs and make sure
you install these ribs in the proper locations. You can
also refer to the plans and mark on each rib where the
spoiler tube will be. Drill a 1/8" hole in the proper
ribs and make sure they get installed in the correct
places.

9

D 2. Son through the three 1/16" x 3" x 30" Balsa Wing

Sheeting (SPT1W20) and pick out the two sheets that most
closely match each other in weight and grain. These will be the
bottom sheeting for the inner wing panels. Check to make sure
the two "bottom" sheets have at least one straight edge. If' not,
use a metal straight edge to cut as little as possible off of one long
edge to make it straight.

NOTE: Follow the steps with two check boxes

to build the RIGHT wing panel, then repeat

these steps to build the LEFT wing panel.

DD 6. Place six W2S and two W2SS ribs (SPT1W01) on

the spar in their approximate positions, work the ribs into the
notches on the
The W2SS ribs should be installed where the spoiler will be
located.

D D 7. Make sure the ribs are properly positioned accord-

ing to the plans and glue them to the spar using med. or thick CA.
Do not purposely glue the ribs to the sheeting yet. Use the
square end of the rib gauge to keep the ribs perpendicular to the
work surface. Hold the TE and the ribs flat against the plan. With
the ribs inserted fully into the notches, add a drop of thin CA to
each joint.

trailing

edge

but

do not glue anythmg yet. NOTE:

D D 3. Glue one of the "Inner Bottom" wing sheets to the
edge

of

an

1/8" x3/8"x 30" Basswood Inner Spar

using the following procedure. With the spar in position on the
plan, hold the straight edge of the bottom wing sheet up against

it. Starling about 9 inches from the "root" end (where the second

W2S rib will be positioned), add thin CA along the joint. Be sure

to hold both the spar and the bottom wing sheet flat against the
work surface while the glue cures. Glue a 5" -6" section at a time

until you get within 4" of the other end (where the last W2S rib

will be installed). Do not glue the two ends yet as some of the

sheeting will be cut away later.

D D 4. Align the bottom spar/wing sheet assembly with the

"Inner Panel" drawing on the plan and pin it in place. This
assembly will be a little long but just center it over the inner panel
drawing.

D D 5. Pin one of the 11/32" Balsa Inner Trailing Edges
(SPT1W15) to the plan, lining up the notches in the TE wilh the
notches on the plan. Use a couple of W2S ribs to correctly space

the TE behind the spar. If the notches are off a little from the plan
it is due to the moisture content of the air. Just line up the root end
of the TE and space the ribs according to the TE, not the plans.

(SPT1W12)

D D 8. Trial fit the Top 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" Basswood Inner

Spar (SPT 1 W 12) into the notches in the ribs by carefully pushing
the spar completely down into the notches. Make sure the top spar

is lined up lengthwise with the bottom spar. Remove the spar and
apply med. or thick CA to the notches. Replace the spar and make
sure the spar is level with the front half of the rib so the sheeting
will lie flat on the spar.

D D 9. Position a 1/8" x 3/8" x 23-1/2" Basswood Outer

Spar (SPT1W 13) under the front edge of the leading edge sheet

to hold it up against the front of the rib. Use weights or pins near

the spar to hold the panel flat on the work surface during this step.

Apply Am CA to glue the sheeting to the ribs. The outer spar is

10

shorter than the panel so you will have to do approx half the ribs
then move the spar down to do the rest of the ribs

W2S ribs and note that it is wider than the front of the rib This
is because the 1/16 balsa leading edge top sheeting will be added
later Align the lower surface of the leading edge with the bottom
of the lower LE sheet and glue it in place with a drop of thin CA
Align the other end of the leading edge with the bottom of the
opposite end W2S and glue it with a drop of thin CA Go down
the line and glue the remaining ribs to the leading edge, one at a
time, so you can make sure they are aligned Make sure the LE
sheeting is flush with the bottom of the LE and add CA between
the ribs Do not glue the sheeting to the LE past the last W2S ribs
yet.

IMPORTANT - MAKE SURE THE WING

PANEL REMAINS ABSOLUTELY FLAT

DURING THE NEXT STEP!

D D 10 Unpin the wing panel from the work surface and

hold a metal straight edge against the front of the ribs Allow the
panel to tip up so the front edge of the sheeting is flat on the work
surface and use an Xacto knife to carefully cut the sheeting off
flush with the from edge of the ribs Use a sanding block to
remove any "bumps" but be careful not to sand any dips into the

sheeting or sand the ribs

D D 11 Position a Pre-Shaped Balsa Leading Edge

(SPT 1 W 14) in place against the front of the ribs NOTE: 1 these
leading edges are NOT symmetrical. Refer to one of the section
views on the plans to determine which way they should be
installed Carefully hold the leading edge against one of the end

DD 12 Locate the 1/16" Balsa Shear Webs (SPT1W24)

Trial fit one of the webs in place between the first and second
W2S ribs Glue the shear web in place on the back of the spars
using med or thick CA The web should be pressed down against

11

the work surface and tightly against the spars. It is important to
do a good job of gluing these in place as they are responsible for
most of the wing's strength. Also glue a shear web to the front of
the spars. Because of the 1/16" bottom sheeting, the front shear
webs will extend above the top spar, but just trim them off after
you have installed all the webs. C-1 and C-2 Clamps (SFT1W22)
can be used to help hold the webs in place while the glue cures.
Install the remaining balsa shear webs. They continue on both the

front and the back of the spar all the way to the last W2S Rib.

DD 13. Punch out the five 1/16" Ply Wing Joiner Lamina-

tions (SPT1W09) and lightly sand the edges to remove any rough
spots. Locate the 1/16" Aluminum Wing Joiner Blade
(ALUM008). Clean the aluminum joiner with alcohol to remove
any oily residue and sand each side with coarse sandpaper to
scratch the surface and help the glue stick.

the panel and mark approximately 1/32" in front of it. Now cut
along this line and the spar to remove a 3/32" wide strip of wood
from the root of the panel to the first W2S rib. Scrape off any glue

or balsa wood thai may still be on the spar with the back edge of
an Xacto knife. IMPORTANT - Be sure to get the edge of the
spar "clean" as a good glue joint between the spar and the joiner
box side is very important.

I—II—I

14.

Use either epoxy or med.
the 1/16" ply laminations to the 1/16" aluminum blade. Apply as
much pressure (clamps, clothespins, weights, etc.) as possible
while the glue is curing and be sure to accurately line up the two

pieces. Glue two more 1/16" ply laminations to each side of the
now 1/8" thick joiner using the same procedure.

DD 15. Sand the top edge of the laminated joiner flat and

glue the Die-Cut 1/16" Ply Joiner Shim (SPT 1W09) in place on
top of the joiner. Sand the edges of the finished "wing joiner" to

remove any glue globs and to round off the comers.

DD 16. Locale two of the 1/16" Ply Joiner Box Sides
(SPT 1 W 11) that have an "S" embossed on them. Hold one of the
sides in place on the front of the spars at the "root" (inner) end of

or

thick CA to

glue

one of

DD 17. Test fit the joiner box sides in place. One side
should be installed on the front of the spars and the other on the
back. Notice that one end of the side is slanted at a 3-1/2 degree
angle. This end must be at the wing centerline. The "long" edge
of the side should be at the bottom. Use the C1 Clamps
(SPT 1 W22) to hold the sides in place and test tit the wing joiner

into the box formed. This "box" will be referred to as the "joiner
box". The spars should fit snugly down on the wing joiner, but

make sure the joiner is not holding the spars above their normal
position. If it is remove the joiner and sand it until it fits correctly.

DD 18. Remove the clamps and the joiner and apply a bead
of epoxy along the spar edges. Install the joiner box sides and
hold them in place with the C1 clamps. A good glue joint is
important here but be careful not to get any excess glue inside the
box formed by these sides. Insert the joiner into the box and then
remove it a couple of times to scrape any excess glue out of the
box. Wipe any glue off the joiner before it cures.

DD 19. Sand the edges of the joiner sides to remove any

sharp comers or glue globs. Wrap the entire joiner box with a

strong thread (2 - 4 lb. fishing line works well). The thread should

12

be tightly wrapped and closely spaced near the root end but it can
be spaced farther apart as you get closer to the W2S rib Do not
allow the thread to overlap or it will build up in thickness and the

top sheeting will not seat properly on the spar When finished

wrapping, soak the entire thread with CA HINT - It will take at
least 15 feet

of

thread to properly wrap each joiner box

these

you should drill 1/8" holes in the remaining W1 SB ribs for the
tubing before gluing them in place.

D D 23 Position the 1/4" xl-l/8"x 2-7/8" Ply Front Wing

Bolt Plate (SPT1W27) next to the template on the plan Use the

measurements given to mark where to drill the hole Drill a
13/64 hole at the mark Notice that the hole is off-center

SKIP
BAND ON WING.

ribs

into

THIS

STEP IF YOU

place

NOTE:

If

you are going to

ARE

BUILDING A RUBBER

install

spoilers,

D D 20 With the wing panel over the plans for reference,
glue W2SA and the W2SB (SPT1W04) in place

DD 21. Locate the "odd" (see
Balsa Sheet (SPRTW20) and cut off three pieces 3" long Slide
one of the sheets in place behind the joiner box and glue it in place
with med or thick CA Cut another piece to fit between the first
sheet and the TE and glue it in place Save the remaining pieces
for the other wing panel

D D 22 Punch out three W1SA ribs and three W1SB ribs

(SPRTW01) and test fit the end W1SA and W1SB ribs into
position A little sanding may be necessary to make them fit
properly They should be tilted in (towards the tip) at the top using
the slanted end of the rib gauge to achieve the correct angle Glue

p10,

step 2) 1/16" x

3" x 30"

D D 24 Test fit the front wing bolt plate in place against the

W1SA rib It should be centered up and down on the LE and it

should be parallel to the work surface, with the hole off-center
towards the root of the wing Sand it if necessary to achieve a
good fit between the LE and the joiner box When satisfied with
the fit, securely glue it in place with either med or thick CA or
epoxy Add 1/4" balsa triangle along the spar and a Fillet of glue
along the LE.

D D 25 Glue the remaining W1SA and W 1 SB ribs in place

The second W1SA should be against the wing bolt plate Glue the
bottom sheeting to each of these ribs and cut off any excess
sheeting, spars, LE, or TE flush with the end W1S rib

13

BUILD THE OUTER WING PANEL

You'll need the following parts:

SPT1W03 1/16" Balsa DC Wing Ribs - W4S,

W6S, W7S, W9S

SPT1W04 1/16" Balsa DC Wing Ribs - W2SA & B,

W5S,W8S,W10S
SPT1W13 1/8" x 3/8" x 23-1/2" Basswood Outer Spars
SPT1W14 Shaped Balsa Leading Edge
SPT1W16 11/32" Balsa Notched Outer Trailing Edge
SPT1W23 7/8" Shaped Balsa Wing Tip Block

D D 1. Lay one of the Balsa Outer Trailing Edges

(SPT1W16) in place over the plan. Align the notches in the

trailing edge with the notches on the plans and pin it in position.

NOTE: The excess TE will later be cut off and used to
make the spoiler.

T-Pins

Work Surface

D D 2. "Cross pin" one of the 1/8" x 3/8" x 23-1/2" Bass-

wood Outer Spars (SPT1W13) in place.

Spar

into the notches until it is flush with the top of the ribs. Remove
the spar and apply med or thick CA to the notches. Replace the
spar and allow the glue to cure.

D D 5. Lay a Pre-Shaped Balsa Leading Edge (SPT 1 W! 4)

over the LEADING EDGE TEMPLATE on the plans. Use this
drawing as a reference to cut the relief notches. It is a good idea
to cut the leading edge approximately 1/4" longer on both

ends to be on the safe side. It can be trimmed to the correct Iength
after it is installed. The relief notches do not need to go all the way

through the leading edge but should go within 1/8" of doing so.

D D 3. Locate the 1/16" (W4S - W10S) Outer Panel Ribs

(SPT1W03 & SPT1W04). Glue the ribs in place with med. or

thick CA at the spar Joint and a drop of thin CA at the trailing edge

joint. Use the rib gauge to keep the ribs perpendicular to the work

surface.

D D 4. Trial fit the Top 1/8" x 3/8" x 23-1/2" Basswood

Outer Spar (SPT1W13) in place by carefully pressing the spar

D D 16. Carefully bend the leading edge to the angle shown

on the plans and position it against the ribs. The bends should be
at ribs W6S and W9S. Align the leading edge with the ribs and
glue it in place, just as you did for the inner panel, except start at
ribs W6S and W9S. Add med. or thick CA to each relief notch
to fill in any gaps.

D D 7 With the panel flat on the work surface, install me

1/16" Shear Webs (SPT 1W24), following the same procedure as

you did on the inner panel. The webs will extend past the top spar

14

but just trim them flush with the spars and sand the edges round

so they do not make a ridge when the covering is applied.

DD 8. Cut and sand the trailing edge, spars and leading edge

flush with rib W10S. Set the panel down on the plan and cut the
root end of the spars, LE and TE to the correct length. Save the
scrap piece of TE to use as a spoiler if needed.

and the above photos to show you the recommended shape.

CAUTION - Do not sand the TE of the tip to a very thin edge
or it will get damaged very easily. It is best to leave it 1/32"

-1/16" thick.

D D 11. Apply several drops of thin CA to the rear portion of
the balsa wing tip. Allow the glue to soak into the wood and cure.
The glue will help harden the wood and protect it from damage.

DD 9. Glue the 7/8" Balsa Wing Tip Blocks (SPTlW23) to

W10S with med. or thick CA. Line up the front of the tip block

with the front of the LE and allow the excess to extend past the TE.

DD 10. Carve and sand the wing tip to blend in with rib W1OS
and the TE. Be careful not to change the shape of W10S while

sanding the tip. There are three section views on the left wing plan

JOIN THE INNER AND OUTER

WING PANELS

D D 1. Prop up the outer wing panel 3-1/2" (from the work

surface to the bottom of the spar at W10S), using the top notch
in the Dihedral Gauge (SPT1W22) between ribs W9S and
W10S. Move the dihedral gauge if necessary to get the correct

15

measurement at rib W10S. Use a sanding block to carefully sand
the leading edge, spars and trailing edge to achieve vertical
surfaces on each. Check your progress by occasionally setting

the panel on the plans to make sure you are not sanding any
"sweep" (forward or backward tilt) into the wing. HINT- Set the
panel on an "elevated" building surface an inch or so above the

work surface and use the edge of the elevated surface to hold the

sanding block perpendicular to the work surface as shown in the
photo.

D D 2. With the inner panel flat on the work surface, sand

the leading edge, spars and trailing edge so they are all even and
of the correct length.

D D 3. Test fit the inner and outer panels together over the

plan to make sure the leading edges, spars, and trailing edges all
meet up nicely when the tip panel is blocked up the required
3-1/2" (at the bottom of rib W10S) with the dihedral gauge. Sand
any ends if needed to make everything fit well.

both sides of the spars. Use the die-cut C2 clamps (SPT1W22)
to hold everything in place. Wipe off any excess glue before it
cures.

D D 4. With the dihedral gauge in place, Apply med. or thick

CA or epoxy to the leading edge, trailing edge and spar joints to
"tack glue" the two panels together. Hold everything in place
until the glue has cured.

D D 5. Cut the balsa bottom sheeting away (1/32") from the

front of the inner panel spar to clear the polyhedral brace. The cut
should start at the last W2S rib and continue to the end of the spar.

Punch out two of the 1/32" Die-Cut Ply Polyhedral Braces

(SPT1W10) with an "S" embossed on them and test fit them in

place against the front and back of the spars. Sand them if needed

to achieve a good fit.

D D 7. Locate the two 1/32" Die-Cut Ply Leading and

Trailing Edge Braces (SPT1W10) that were next to the polyhe­dral braces you used earlier. Test fit them in place and sand them
if needed to make them fit between the rib W2S and W4S. The
LE brace should be at least 1/16" below the top of the LE to allow
for the 1/16" top sheeting, which will be added later. Glue them
in place with med. or thick CA. If the TE brace extends above or
below the surface of the TE, sand it flush.

D D 8. Install ribs W3SA and W3SB (SPT1W02) between

the inner and outer panels using med. or thick CA. A little sanding
may be necessary to achieve a good fit. Use the rib gauge to tilt
the ribs to the proper angle.

D D 6. When satisfied with the fit, apply a generous bead of

epoxy or med. or thick CA to the spars and install the braces on

D D 9. Drill a 13/64" hole down through the hole in the front

wing bolt plate and through the 1/16" bottom sheeting. Lightly

16

sand the tops of the inner panel ribs and the spar to remove any
glue globs or uneven places.

DD

10

Check to make sure one edge of the l/16" x3-l/2"

30" Balsa Top Leading Edge Sheeting (SPT1W25) is straight,
and if not, cut it straight using a metal straight edge.

can put weights on the strip of wood if needed CAUTION • It

is important to keep the wing flat and warp-free during this

step!

x

D D 13 Apply thin CA between the pieces of masking tape

along the leading edge Remove the tape and apply thin CA
where the tape was

D D 14 Drill a 13/64" hole up through the hole in the wing

bolt plate
the top sheeting to approx 5/8 diameter so the head of the wing
bolt will pass through

and

through

the

1/16"

top sheeting

Enlarge

the hole

in

D D 11. Position the 1/16" sheeting in place so the straight

edge is against the leading edge and one end is covering W3SA

Apply several strips of masking tape to hold it in place and act as

a hinge lor the gluing process Press the sheeting onto the ribs and

trim it flush with the back edge of the spar using a modeling knife

and straight edge Be careful not to cut into the thread when

cutting near the root of the panel Save the scrap of sheeting for

later

D D 12. Lift the sheeting up and apply a bead of med or thick

CA along the top of each rib and along the top spar Quickly press

the sheeting down into place and hold it until the glue has cured
Keep the sheeting pressed against the ribs and the spar while the
glue cures A straight strip of wood the length of the panel, can
be a big help when trying to hold the sheeting down evenly You

IF YOU ARE NOT INSTALLING

SPOILERS, SKIP TO STEP 23

D D 15 Cut one 8" long spoiler from the un-notched scrap

end of each Outer Panel Trailing Edge (SPRTW12) Cut four

pieces of 3/16 x 1/4 balsa 1-1/2 long and two pieces 1" long

from the 3/16" x 1/4" x 24" Balsa Spoiler Bay Frame (SPT1W26)
Also cut two

1/16" sheeting.

D D 16 Glue the 1/16" x 1/8" x 8-1/16" piece of balsa to the

back edge of the sheeting, between the W2S ribs as shown in the

pieces

of

1/16" x 1/8"

Balsa

8-1/16" long from scrap

17