GAS GAS thanks you for the trust you have placed in us.
By choosing the new GAS GAS EC / MC / SM 2006 you have become part of the great GAS GAS family and,
as a user of the number one manufacturer of off-road motorbikes, you deserve the distinguished treatment
that we wish to offer to you both in our after-sale relationship and in the explanations that we provide in this
manual.
Our EC / MC / SM 2006 is a motorcycle conceived for the practice of high-competition. It is actually the fruit
of many years of competition and experimentation in this demanding discipline, as well as the many great
successes achieved thanks to great trial riders who have contributed with their expertise to the basic data that
have allowed us to create motorcycles of the highest level, GAS GAS unique motorcycles which count on
important key factors: reliability, high features and a good stability.
Congratulations for making the right choice. With your skills at the command of this motorcycle, its adequate
preparation and the corresponding indispensable servicing, this motorcycle will prove to be highly reliable, and
you will be able to enjoy the most comfortable and rewarding practice of your favorite sport.
Thank you for your trust in us, and welcome to GAS GAS Motos, S.A.
April 2005
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Page 6
HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL
Read this Manual carefully. You will find it contains all the necessary
information for your safety, and that of other persons, as well as
guaranteeing the correct conservation and maintenance of the GAS
GAS motorcycle that you have just acquired.
You will find all the necessary instructions for the correct riding and
control of this vehicle are set out below. Each message is preceded
by a symbol with the following meaning: .
WARNING
This warning symbol identifies special instructions or procedures
which, if not correctly followed, could result in personal injury or even
death.
Motorcycle riding, if improverly conducted, has the potential to cause
environmental problems as well as conflicts with other people.
Responsible riding use of your motorcycle will ensure that these
problems and conflicts do not develop.
TO PROTECT THE FUTURE OF YOUR SPORT MAKE SURE YOU
USE YOUR MOTORCYCLE WHITHIN THE LAW, SHOW CONCERN
FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, AND RESPECT THE RIGHTS OF
OTHER PEOPLE.
Motorcycle riding is a wonderful sport, and we hope you will enjoy
it to the fullest.
CAUTION
This symbol identifies instructions or procedures which, if not followed
strictly, could result in damage to or destruction of equipment.
NOTE
This note symbol indicates points of particular interest for more
efficient and convenient operation.
To set the side stand only turn it until it contacts the stopper, then
the side stand will be parallel to the ground and rest securely.
The side stand will return to its original position by means of the
double spring. The function of the double spring insures that, when
the side stand is down, the rest position is stable and above all
secure; moreover, it also returns the side stand to its original position.
EC 2006 and
SM 2006
(A)
(A). Side stand.
(B)
MC 2006
(A). Side stand.
NOTE
Do not start the engine or ride the motorcycle when the side
stand is down.
(B). Double
spring.
(A)
The GAS GAS EC / MC / SM models have 2-cycle engines that
require a mixture of gasoline and oil.
Gas Tank Capacity
9 L
(B)
(A)
(A). Fuel tank cap.
(B). Vapor outlet tube.
The fuel tank cap is of the quick-release type.
To open the fuel tank cap, lift the plated latch and turn cap counterclockwise.
To close it, turn the cap clockwise and lower the latch.
NOTE
It is recommended that the rubber seal should be checked
thoroughly to insure it is airtight.
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Page 15
RECOMMENDED FUEL
Use gasoline with an octane rating equal to or higher than that shown
in the table.
Recommended oil:
2-CYCLE SYNTHETIC
OCTANE RATING METHOD MINIUM
RATING
Antiknock Index (RON+MON)/2 90
Research Octane No. (RON) 98
NOTE
If knocking or pinging occurs, try a different brand of gasoline
or higher octane grade.
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain
conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure
the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or
sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
Mixing oil inside the engine
Oil must be mixed with gasoline to lubricate the piston, cylinder,
crankshaft, and connecting rod bearings.
If the recommended oil is not available, use only oil designed
CAUTION
Do not mix vegetable and mineral based oils.
Too much oil will cause excessive smoking and spark plug fouling.
Too little oil will cause engine damage or premature wear.
CAUTION
Below 0 ºC do not use 100% synthetic oil.
To prepare the mixture, first pour oil and half of the gasoline used
into a container and stir the mixture thoroughly. Then add the rest
of the gasoline and stir the mixture well.
NOTE
At low temperature, oil will not easily mix with gasoline. Take
time to ensure a well-blended mixture.
The lubrication quality of this mixture deteriorates rapidly; use
a fresh mixture for each day of operation.
-13
-
Page 16
SERIAL NUMBER (A)
STARTING THE ENGINE
It is stamped on the steering pipe. It indicates the frame number
registered for this motorcycle.
HOMOLOGATION PLATE (B)
This motorcycle carries its corresponding homologation plate where
it also shows the serial number, and this data must match the
information registered in the motorcycle documents.
(A)
(B)
1. Make sure the motorcycle is in the neutral position.
2. Turn the gasoline cock (A) clockwise to the "ON" position.
ON
Open
OFF
Close
RES
Reserve
(A)
(B)
3. If the engine is
cold, pull up the
choke knob (B).
-14-
Page 17
- When the engine is already warm or on hot days, open
(C)
NOTE
the throttle instead of using the choke knob.
- If the engine is flooded, kick with the throttle fully open.
- If the clutch lever is pulled, the motorcycle can be
started while in any gear.
Stopping the engine (MC model)
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. After racing the
engine slightly, close the
throttle completely and
depress the engine stop
button (A).
(A)
4. Start the
motorcycle with
kick-start pedal (C).
5. Even after the engine starts, keep the choke knob pulled up.
Stopping the engine (EC and SM models)
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
(D)
3. Turn the key in counterclockwise direction to the "OFF" position.
2. After racing the
engine slightly,
close the throttle
completely and
depress the engine
stop button (D).
SHIFTING GEARS
The transmission is a 6-speed, of the return shift type. A return shift
means that to go from first gear to third gear it must go first through
the second gear, that is to say that it upshifts gears one by one. To
engage first gear from neutral, pull the clutch lever in and push down
on the gearshift pedal, then release the gearshift pedal and gently
release the clutch lever.
CAUTION
When shifting gears, press firmly on the gearshift pedal to ensure
a positive shifting. Careless, incomplete shifts can cause the
transmission to jump out of gear and cause engine damage.
(A)
(A). Gearshift pedal.
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Page 18
STOPPING THE MOTORCYCLE
Perform the break-in period following these steps:
For maximum deceleration, close the throttle (A) and apply both
front and rear brakes. Disengage the clutch as the motorcycle comes
to a stop. Independent use of the front or rear brake may be
advantageous under certain conditions.
Downshift progressively as speed is reduced to ensure good engine
response when you want to accelerate.
(A)
RIDING DURING THE BREAK-IN PERIOD
A break-in period is necessary to ensure a smooth operation and
obtain an optimum engine and the transmission responses. During
the first hour or 20 km of operation, run the engine at low and
moderate speeds and revolutions per minute (RPM).
NOTE
The slow riding necessary during the break-in period may cause
carbon deposits to build up on the spark plug and foul it. If
inspection of the spark plug shows this to be the case, replace
the standard spark plug with another of a higher heat range.
1. Start the engine and let it run at idle until the engine is warm.
2. Stop and let the engine cool completely.
3. Start the engine and ride for 10 minutes at moderate speed -
NEVER ACCELERATE HARD.
4. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Be sure to check and
adjust chain slack and spoke tightness and cxarry out a general
inspection.
5. Start the engine and ride for 20 minutes at moderate speed. -
NEVER ACCELERATE HARD.
6. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust as
needed (Refer to the table of adjustments).
7. Install the parts removed.
8. Fill the radiator with the recommended coolant. Before starting
the motorcycle, bleed the air from the cooling system.
9. Start the engine and ride for 30 minutes at moderate speed.
10. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust.
11. After the break-in procedure has been properly carried out, the
motorcycle is ready for regular operation.
CAUTION
However, avoid accelerating recklessly that can lead to engine failure.
Be careful to use the necessary skills and techniques while operating
the motorcycle.
NOTE
After the break-in period, install a new set of standard spark
plugs.
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Page 19
Item
MANTENANCE SCHEDULE
Check / InspectChange / ReplaceApply grease /
Adjust
Clean
Lubricate
Clutch
Discs
Throttle cable
Spark plug
Air cleaner element
Carburetor
Transmission oil
Piston and piston ring
Cylinder head, cyl. & exhaust valves
Exhaust
Muffler gasket
Piston bearing
Kick-start pedal and gearshift pedal
Exhaust pipe o'ring
Engine bearings
Coolant
Radiator tube and connections
Brake adjustment
Brake pads wear
Brake fluid level
Brake fluid
Brake pump piston & dust cover
At each fill up
3 fill ups
-
-
-
1 fill up
3 fill ups
3 fill ups
1 fill up
3 fill ups
-
-
10 fill ups
3 fill ups
1 fill up
3 fill ups
5 fill ups
3 fill ups
-
-
At each fill up
3 fill ups*
1 fill up
-
-
1 fill up
3 fill ups*
3 fill ups*
1 fill up*
10 fill ups*
3 fill ups*
-
-
10 fill ups*
3 fill ups*
1 fill up*
3 fill ups*
5 fill ups*
3 fill ups*
-
-
At each fill up*
3 fill ups*
-
-
When damaged
-
3 fill ups
3 fill ups*
3 fill ups*
1 fill up*
10 fill ups
10 fill ups
-
3 fill ups
10 fill ups*
3 fill ups*
1 fill up*
3 fill ups*
5 fill ups*
3 fill ups*
Every 2 years
Every 2 years
-
-
1 fill up
1 fill up
-
-
3 fill ups
1 fill up
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
At each fill up
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
3 fill ups
1 fill up
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
The maintenance and adjustments in this table are easy to follow and must be carried out to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.
NOTE: (*) Inspect and carry out these operations only if it is necessary.
-17-
Page 20
Item
MANTENANCE SCHEDULE
Check / InspectChange / ReplaceApply grease /
Adjust
Clean
Lubricate
Brake caliper piston seal & dust seal
Brake hose and pipe
Spoke tightness and rim runout
Lubricate drive chain
Drive chain
Drive chain wear
Chain slider
Front fork
Front fork oil
Nuts, bolt, fasteners
Fuel hose
Fuel system
Steering play
Rear sprocket
General lubrication
Steering bearing
Wheel bearing
Swingarm and linkages
Rear shock absorber oil
-
-
1 fill up
-
1 fill up
-
5 fill ups
1 fill up
5 fill ups
7 fill ups
-
1 fill up
5 fill ups
5 fill ups
-
10 fill ups
5 fill ups
Every 2 years
-
-
1 fill up*
-
-
5 fill ups
5 fill ups*
When necessary
5 fill ups*
7 fill ups*
-
5 fill ups*
-
-
10 fill ups*
5 fill ups*
2 years*
Every 2 years
Every 4 years
1 fill up*
-
-
5 fill ups
5 fill ups*
When damaged
Every year
5 fill ups*
7 fill ups
10 fill ups
-
5 fill ups*
-
-
10 fill ups*
5 fill ups*
2 years*
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
When necessary
-
-
-
When necessary
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
1 fill up
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
5 fill ups
10 fill ups
-
5 fill ups
-
The maintenance and adjustments in this table are easy to follow and must be carried out to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.
NOTE: (*) Inspect and carry out these operations only if it is necessary.
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Page 21
ELECTRONIC IGNITION
This motorcycle uses a capacitor discharge ignition system (CDI).
The ignition system should never require adjustment unless the
stator of the magnetic flywheel was incorrectly installed during engine
reassembly.
If necessary, inspect and adjust as follows:
Adjustment
- Remove the magnetic flywheel cover (A).
- Make sure that the mark on the stator plate is aligned with the
mark on the crankcase.
- If the marks are not aligned, loosen the magnetic inertia wheel
screws and turn it.
- Tighten the screws securely.
- Install the magnetic flywheel cover.
NOTE
Engine tune-up can be adjusted to match the rider´s preferences
and skills.
- Remove the magnetic flywheel cover.
- Loosen the stator screws.
- Adjust the engine tune-up by changing the position of the stator
within prudent limits
NOTE
For the best engine performance, it is very important to adjust
the engine tune-up within the set of limits described.
(A)
125 cc
200 / 250 / 300 cc
- Tighten the stator screws.
- Install the magnetic flywheel cover.
- Test ride the motorcycle and readjust the engine tune-up, if
necessary.
COOLING SYSTEM
Radiator Hoses
Check the radiator hoses for cuts or deterioration, and the connections
for looseness and leaks.
Radiator
Check the radiator fins for obstructions (insects or mud). Remove
any obstructions with a stream of low water pressure.
-19-
Page 22
If high water pressure is used the radiator fins could be damaged
CAUTION
and impair the radiator effectiveness.
Do not obstruct or deflect airflow through the radiator by installing
unauthorized accessories. Any interference with the radiator airflow
can lead to engine overheating and damage.
Coolant information
To protect the cooling system aluminum parts (engine and radiator)
from rust and corrosion, the use of corrosion and rust inhibitors
chemicals in the coolant is essential. If rust inhibitors were not used,
over a period of time the radiator will be corroded. This will clog the
tubes of the cooling system.
If the lowest ambient temperature encountered falls below the freezing
point of water, protect the cooling system. Use a permanent type of
antifreeze in the cooling system (distilled water and ethylene glycol
and corrossion inhibitors for aluminium engines and radiators).
For the coolant mixture ratio under extreme conditions, choose the
mixture ratio listed on the container for the lowest ambient temperature.
CAUTION
Permantent types of antifreeze have anticorrosion and anti-rust
properties. When it is diluted excessively, it loses its antifreeze and
anticorrosion properties. Mix in accordance with the instructions of
manufacturer.
Liquid recommended
Use of incorrect coolant solutions will cause engine and cooling
CAUTION
system damage.
Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors made specifically for
aluminum engines and radiators in accordance with the instructions
of the manufacturer.
WARNING
Chemical liquids are harmful to the human body. Follow manufacturer
instructions.
CAUTION
Distilled water must be used with corrosion inhibitors and the
antifreeze in the cooling system. If tap water is used in the system,
the cooling tubes can be clogged and reduce the cooling system
efficiency.
Permanent type of antifreeze (distilled water and ethylene glycol)
plus corrossion inhibitors for aluminium engines and radiators.
NOTE
Initially, at the factory a permanent type of antifreeze is installed
in the cooling system. It is colored green, it contains a 50%
solution of ethylene glycol, and has a freezing point of –35 ºC.
Coolant recommended
Coolant absorbs excessive heat from the engine and transfers it to
the air at the radiator. If the coolant level is low, the engine overheats
and may suffer severe damage. Check the coolant level each day
before riding the motorcycle. Add liquid recommended if the level is
low (see next page).
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Page 23
WARNING
To prevent severe scalding do not remove the radiator cap or try to
change liquid, when the engine is still hot. Wait until it cools.
Coolant level
- Place the motorcycle in riding position.
- Turn the radiator cap (A) counterclockwise and wait a few seconds
until vapors inside are released. Then push and turn it further in
the same direction and remove the cap.
(A)
(1). Coolant level.
(2). Filler opening.
Total quantity
Mix antifreeze and distilled water 1:1 (distilled water 50%, antifreeze
50%).
Capacity: 1.1 L
Coolant Replacement
Coolant should be changed periodically to ensure long engine life.
- Wait for the engine to cool completely.
- Place the motorcycle in riding position.
- Remove the radiator cap.
- Place a container under the coolant drain screw, and drain the
coolant from the radiator and engine by removing the drain screw
(B) at the bottom of the water pump cover (A). Wash off immediately
any coolant spilled on the chassis, engine, or wheels.
Check the level when the engine is cold.
NOTE
- Check the coolant level. The coolant level should be just at a level
below de cap rubber seal.
- If the coolant level is low, add the correct amount of coolant
through the filler opening.
-21-
(A)
(B)
(A)
(B)
125 cc.200 / 250 / 300 cc.
Page 24
WARNING
If coolant gets on the tires will make them very slippery and can
cause an accident.
- Visually inspect the old coolant. If whitish spots are observed in
the liquid is a clear indication that the aluminum parts in the cooling
system are corroded. If the coolant is brown, iron or steel parts
of the system are rusting. In both cases, flush the cooling system.
- Check the cooling system for damage, leaks or missing gaskets
in the cooling system.
- Install the water pump cover drain screw with the specified torque
values shown in the table. Always replace the gasket with a new
one.
Drain plug tightening torque (refer to torque table)
Water pump screw: 9 Nm
- Fill the radiator up to the edge of the cap with coolant, and install
the radiator cap.
- Inspoect the cooling system for leaks.
- Start and warm up the engine, then stop the engine.
- Check the coolant level after the engine cools down. Add coolant
up to the cap.
Standard Spark Plug
125 cc NDW27ESR-U NGK BR9 EG 0.7-0.8 mm
200 / 250 / 300 cc NGK BR8 EG NDW24ESR-U 0.7-0.8 mm
The spark plug should be removed periodically to check its gap. If
the plug is oily or has carbon deposits, clean it with a sandblaster.
After removing the abrasive particles, the spark plug must be cleaned
using a wire brush or a similar tool. Measure the gap with a feeler
gauge, if incorrect adjust the gap by bending the side electrode. If
the spark plug electrodes are corroded or damaged, or if insulator
is cracked, replace the plug.
NOTE
Inspect every 30 hours and change every 60 hours.
To find out whether the right heat range plug is being used, remove
it and inspect the ceramic insulator around the center electrode. If
the ceramic is light brown, the spark plug is correctly matched to
engine temperature. If the ceramic is whie, the spark plug should
be replaced with the next colder plug. If the ceramic is black, the
spark plug should be replaced with the next hotter plug.
NOTE
If the engine performance drops, replace the spark plug first to
recover its output.
TRANSMISSION
SPARK PLUG
The standard spark plug is a shown in the table and should be
tightened to 27 Nm.
For the transmission and clutch to function properly, maintain the
transmission oil level at the optimum level and change it periodically.
A motorcycle with insufficient transmission oil, deteriorated or
contaminated can accelerate wear and tear and cause transmission
damages.
-22-
Page 25
Oil level inspection
Oil change
- Wait a few minutes if the motorcycle has been operating.
- Check the oil level
through the
inspection window
(A)
in the lower right
hand side of the
engine (A).
- Oil level must be
kept between the
maximum and
minimum marks.
(B)
- If the lever is too
high, you have to
remove the excess
oil through the drain
plug (B).
- If the level is low, add the necessary quantity of oil by opening the
plug (C). Use the same type and oil manufacturer used currently
with the engine.
The engine must be completely cool and then warm up the
NOTE
engine again for a few minutes to normal operating temperature,
to register the correct engine oil temperature and to obtain an
accurate oil level measurement.
- The transmission oil should be changed periodically to ensure
long engine life.
- Warm up the engine for 5 minutes so any oil sediment will float.
- Stop the engine, and place an oil pan under the engine.
- Remove the drain screw (see previous photo) and place the
motorcycle in riding position to allow the oil to drain out.
- Clean the drain screw magnet of any iron particles.
- Tighten the oil drain screw with its O-ring to 20-Nm.
- Remove the oil filler opening plug (C) and pour 900 cc of new
transmission oil for the models 200 / 250 / 300, and 650 cc for
model 125.
- Check the oil level, after kicking the kick-start pedal 3 or 4 times.
- Install the oil filler opening plug.
200/250/300 cc.125 cc.
(C)
(C)
Transmission OilViscosity: SAE 10W30
Capacity: 1000 cc
-23-
Page 26
AIR CLEANER
A clogged air cleaner restricts the engine air intake, increasing fuel
consumption, reducing engine power, and causing spark plug fouling.
WARNING
A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust to enter the carburetor
and stick the throttle open. This could cause an accident.
- Place a lint-free towel in the intake port of the carburetor so no
dirt is allowed to enter the carburetor.
CAUTION
Do not turn the filter since it can be easily damaged or torn.
- Wipe out inside the air cleaner hoousing with a clean damp towel.
A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust to enter the engine
causing excessive wear and tear and other damages.
Do not omit checking the element, before and after each race or
practice session. Clean it if necessary.
Element Cleaning
Clean the element in a well-ventilated area, and make sure that
there are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area (this
includes any appliance with a pilot light). Do not use gasoline to
clean the element because could cause an explosion.
CAUTION
WARNING
- Remove the cover (A).
- Remove the screw (B)
and remove the filter (C).
(B)
(A)
(C)
- Pull the cage (B) out
of the air cleaner (A).
- Clean the filter using
a soft bristle brush in
a bath of filter cleaning
fluid.
- Squeeze it dry with a
clean towel. Do not
wring the element or
blow it dry since it can
be damaged.
-24-
Page 27
- Inspect the filter for damage such as tears, hardening, or shrinkage.
If damaged, replace it or it will allow dirt into the carburetor.
- Apply grease to all connections and screws in the air cleaner and
intake ports.
- Install the filter in the
cage and pack the
filter lip with grease
(A), to ensure good
sealing and prevent
dirt entrance.
- Install the seat.
THROTLE CABLE
- Check that the throttle grip turns smoothly.
- Check that the throttle grip has 2-3 mm of free play.
- If the free play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on the upper end
of the throttle cable, and turn the adjuster to obtain the correct
amount of free play.
- Tighten the locknut again.
(C)(A)(B)
(A). Adjuster.
(B). Locknut.
(C). Throttle grip.
- If the free play cannot be set by adjusting the cable, remove the
cable protector in the throttle body. Make the necessary free play
adjustments with the tensor at the end of the cable, tighten the
locknut, and reinstall the protector.
CARBURETOR
Idle speed adjustment
Is carried out using the air screw (A) and idle screw (B).
- First turn in the air screw until it is loose, then tighten it 1 1/2 turns.
- After thoroughly warming up the engine, turn the idle adjusting
screw to obtain the desired idle speed. If there are no idle
preferences, turn the screw until the engine stops.
- Tighten lightly the idle screw..
(B)
(A)
(A). Air screw.
(B). Idle screw.
- Open and close the throttle a few times to make sure the idle
speed does not change. Readjust if necessary.
- With the engine idling, turn the handlebar to each side. If handlebar
movement changes the idle speed, the throttle cable may be
improperly adjusted or routed incorrectly, or it may be damaged.
Be sure to correct any of these conditions before riding.
-25-
Page 28
WARNING
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Riding with a damaged throttle cable could be dangerous.
CLUTCH
The clutch lever should have a maximum play of 3 mm. This margin
increases with the wear on the clutch plate.
To adjust, proceed as follows:
- Use bolt A to adjust the lever’s range of movement to the rider’s
convenience.
- Adjust the play of the lever using bolt B.
(C)
(B)
(A)
WARNING
- Maintain the clutch lever with the play shown, otherwise the
performance and useful life of the clutch may be adversely affected.
- The EC 2006 model uses mineral oil GRO ULTRA 5 for the clutch
hydraulic circuit.
- Tank C must not be filled with liquid from the models of previous
years.
The exhaust and the muffler reduce the noise and send gases away
from the rider.
If the exhaust is badly damaged, dented, cracked or rusted, replace
it with a new one. Replace the muffler fibre if the exhaust noise
becomes too loud or if the engine performance drops.
Muffler replacement
- Remove the right side number-posting cover.
- Remove the retaining screws
(A) of the right side numberposting cover (B).
(B)
(A)
- Remove the retaining screws
(C) of the muffler (D) and
remove the muffler towards
the rear.
(C)
(D)
- Replace the muffler and reinstall the assembly.
-26-
Page 29
Muffler fibre replacement
EC Model
- Remove all cover rivets with a drill.
- Remove the inside core of the muffler.
- Replace the muffler fibre by wraping it around the inner tube.
- Reinstall the assembly.
(A). Rivets.
(B). Cover.
125 / 200 cc.
DRIVE CHAIN GUIDE
The drive chain must be checked, adjusted, and lubricated in
accordance with the Maintenance Schedule. If the chain is worn or
adjusted incorrectly (either too loose or too tight) the chain could
become loose or break. Replace the chain, if necessary.
A chain that breaks or becomes loose could snag on the engine or
on the rear wheel, severely damaging the motorcycle and causing
it to go out of control
(A)(B)
250 / 300 cc
WARNING
MC and SM Models
Drive Chain Slack Inspection
The space between the chain and the swingarm at the same height
of the chain slider should be 30-50 mm. Rotate the rear wheel to
find the place where the chain is tighter. Adjust the drive chain if it
has too much or too little slack.
30-50 mm.
In addition to checking the slack, rotate the rear wheel to inspect for
damaged rollers, loose pin and links, unevenly or excessively worn
teet, and damaged teeth.
-
27-
Page 30
Drive Chain Slack Adjustment
- Loosen the rear axle nut (A).
- Turn the nuts on the chain adjusting tensors (B) until the drive
chain has a gap of 30-50 mm between the chain and the swing
arm. To keep the chain and wheel aligned, the left chain tensor
should aligned with the right chain tensor.
- Tighten the chain tensor nuts (B).
- Tighten rear axle nut to 98 Nm.
- Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack again at the tightest
position, and readjust if necessary.
WARNING
If the axle nut is not securely tightened an unsafe riding condition
may result.
Drive chain, chain guide, chain slider, and rear sprocket teeth.
(A)
(B)
WARNING
Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear and may
cause an unsafe riding condition.
NOTE
Wheel alignment can also be checked using the string metod.
When the chain is worn so much that it is more than 2% longer than
when new, it is no longer safe for use and should be replaced.
Whenever the chain is replaced, inspect both the engine output
pinion and rear sprocket teeth, and replace them if necessary. Worn
sprocket teeth will cause a new chain to wear quickly.
NOTE
When a part ir worn, replace it with a genuine part for maximum
resistance and safety.
To minimize any chance of the master link coming apart, the master
link clip must be installed with the closed end of the «U» facing in
the direction of the chain rotation.
(A). Clip.
(B). Direction of rotation
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Page 31
Chain Guide Slider
Visually inspect the upper and lower chain slider at the location of
the swingarm. If damaged or worn, replace it with a new part.
Apply oil to the sides of the chain rollers for better oil penetration.
Wipe off any excess oil.
(B)
(A)
(A). Chain Guide Slider.
(B). Swingarm.
Pinion Teeth, Pinion Sprocket and Sprocket Wear
Visually inspect the pinion teeth. If they are worn or damaged, replace
the the pinion or the sprocket.
Lubrication
Lubrication is necessary after riding through rain or in the mud, or
any time that the chain appears dry. A heavy oil is preferred to a
lighter ol because it will stay on the chain longer and provide better
lubrication.
(A). Apply oil.
HANDLEBAR
To suit various riding positions, the handlebar position can be adjusted
front to rear.
Handlebar position adjustment
Loosen the handlebar holder (A) screws (B), turn the handlebar and
place it in the desired position.
(A)
(B)
-29-
Page 32
Tighten the bolts, front first and then the rear, to 25 Nm of torque.
If the handlebar is
installed correctly,
there will be an
even gap at the
A
BRAKES
Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compensated for and has
no effect on the brake lever or pedal action. So there are no parts
that require adjustment on the brakes except brake lever free play
and brake pedal position
Front brake lever free play
front and rear after
tightening (A).
Rear brake pedal position
When the brake pedal is in rest position, there should be a free play
of 10 mm.
Check the brake for good braking power and no brake drag.
(A)
(B)
Adjust the front brake lever (A) to match your requirements. To
adjust, loosen the nut (B). After adjustment, tighten it securely. Then
check that the brake response is correct.
(A)
(B)
(A). Brake pedal.
(B). 10 mm free play.
WARNING
If the brake pedal feels spongy when it is applied, there might be air
trapped in the brake pump or the brake may be defective. Since it
is dangerous to operate the motorcycle under such conditions, have
the brake checked inmediately.
-30-
Page 33
Brake fluid
Inspect the brake fluid level and change it periodically. The brake
fluid should also be changed if it becomes contaminated with dirt or
water.
Liquid recommended
Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted surface. Do not use fluid
CAUTION
from a container that has been left open or that has been unsealed
for a long time. Check for fluid leakage around the fittings. Check
for brake hose damage.
Use D.O.T 3 or D.O.T 4.
Brake fluid level inspection
The front (A) and rear (B) reservoirs must be kept more than half
full with brake fluid. If the brake fluid is insufficient, add brake fluid.
EC and MC Models
SM Model
(A)
(A)
(B)
ALL Models
WARNING
Do not mix different types of fluid. Change the brake fluid in the
reservoirs completely if the same type of brake fluid is not available.
Brake wear inspection
If the thickness of either pad, front and rear, is less than 1 mm,
replace both pads as a set. Pad replacement should be carried out
only by an authorized GAS GAS dealer.
STEERING
The steering should always be kept adjusted so that the handlebar
will turn freely but without free play.
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Page 34
To check the steering adjustment use a stand under the chassis,
and lift the motorcycle off the ground. Move the handlebar lightly to
either side; if the handlebar continues moving under its own
momentum, the steering is not too tight. Squatting in front of the
motorcycle, grasp the lower end of the front fork (at the axle), and
push and pull the fork (as shown on the previous photo); if free play
is felt, the steering is too loose.
If the steering needs adjustment
- Install the suspension top bridge (D).
- Tighten the steering stem nut, and front fork washers and screws.
- Check the steering again, and readjust if necessary.
- Install the removed parts.
- Use a stand or a special support to stabilize the motorcycle.
- Raise the front wheel off the ground.
- Remove the handlebar (A) by loosening the handlebar holder
screws and removing the upper holders.
(A)
(C)
(D)
- Loosen the steering stem nut (B).
- Loosen the screws of the suspension top bridge (C) and remove
it.
- Turn the steering adjustment nut with the special wrench to obtain
the proper adjustment.
(B)
STEERING BLOCKAGE
As indicated by its name, this mechanism allows us to lock the
handlebar. Is located in the steering pipe.
You have to turn the handlebar completely to the right, next insert
the key, turn left, press, turn right and remove the key.
(A)
(A). Steering lock.
-
32-
Page 35
Never leave the key in the latch. If the steering is turned to the left
CAUTION
with the key inerted in the latch it will be severely damaged.
FRONT FORK
The front fork should always be adjusted for the rider´s weight and
road conditions. The adjustments must be performed in 4 steps:
- Air pressure: Air pressure affects the fork travel. The air pressure
increases as the fork heats up, in other words it varies as a function
of time of operation. We do not recommend using air pressure,
because the suspension has been designed to work without air
pressure.
- Using a stand under the frame, and stabilize the motorcycle.
- Place a support under the engine so that the front wheel is raised
off the ground.
- Remove the purge screw at the top of the front fork to bleed the
air out.
(A)
- Rebound and compression dampening adjustment: This adjustment
affects how quickly it rebounds. The fork rebound dampening
adjuster has 18 positions. The tightest position is full hard. The
position 12 from close is the standard setting, and position 18 from
close is full soft.
- Oil level adjustment: The effects of higher or lower fork oil level
are only felt during the final 100 mm of fork travel. A higher oil level
will make the fork rebound faster. The lower the oil level is the fork
rebound will be slower.
- Fork spring: Optional springs are available that are softer and
stiffer than standard.
Air Pressure
The standard air pressure in the fork is atmospheric air pressure.
The air pressure increases as the fork heats up, because of this the
fork action becomes harder.
(A). Air purge screw.
Rebound Dampening Adjustment
- To adjust the rebound, turn and hand tighten the adjuster knob (A)
located at the top of the front fork.
- Adjust the rebound to suit the rider’s preference under determined
conditions.
(A)
(A). Adjuster knob.
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Page 36
Use the standard settings to adjust the rebound (turn it 6 positions
counterclockwise).
CAUTION
The left and right fork tubes must be at the same level and aligned
with the top bridge.
Compression dampening adjustment
- To adjust the compression, turn with your finger the adjusting knob
located at the top of the front fork.
- Adjust the compression to suit the rider’s preference under
determined conditions.
- Use the standard measures to adjust the compression (turn it 6
positions counterclockwise).
Oil level adjustment
- Place a stand under the motorcycle engine (to keep it in a straight
and stable position).
- Remove the handlebar screws and remove the handlebar.
- Remove the suspension caps from the tubes.
- Compress the front fork slowly all the way.
- Lift the fork springs.
- Hold the suspension tube cap with a spanner, the loosen the cap
locknut.
- Remove the suspension tube caps.
- Remove the suspension srping guide.
- Use a wrench to remove the fork springs.
- Put the oil level gauge on the upper portion of the fork tube, and
measure the distance from the top of the fork tube to the oil level.
Standard oil level
Marzocchi: 110 mm
Öhlins: 110 mm
(A). Drain oil.
(B). Add oil.
Adjust the oil level as required within the adjustable range using the
following oil:
Different springs are available in accordance with the rider´s weight
or the road conditions.
- Harder springs make the fork stiffer, and rebound action quicker.
- Softer springs make the fork softer, and rebound action slower.
- Pull the hydraulic rod (A) out slowly.
- At this time, the fork oil pours out of the hydraulic rod hole, keep
it raised to let it drain until it stops.
- Install the fork spring (1) inside the fork tube.
- Tighten the suspension spring and insert the wrench (5) in the
locknut (2) to lock the cap (3).
- Install the suspension cap (3) in the fork tube and tighten it to 29
Nm.
- Mount the other fork.
- Install the parts removed.
Suspension top bridge position adjustment
Make sure the front tire does not rub against the fender when the
fork tubes are compressed fully. Make this adjustment to a minimum
of 5 mm.
CAUTION
The suspension tubes, both right and left, must be adjusted evenly.
-35-
Page 38
(1)
Shock absorber extension adjustment
To adjust, turn by hand the extension adjuster in the lower part of
the shock absorber until a “CLICK” is heard.
Total number of adjustments possible is: 40 "CLICKS".
Rebound adjustment standard measures: Between 18 and 25
“CLICKS”.
(Counterclockwise from fully closed position).
(1). Suspension top bridge position.
REAR SUSPENSION
The rear suspension is composed of the shock absorber, swingarm,
linkages and torque rod.
Generally speaking, the operating characteristics are similar to the
front fork. But its unique characteristic is that it has, besides the
shock absorber, an articulated quadrilateral composed of the linkages
and torque rod.
To match various riding condition types, the shock absorber spring
can be adjusted or replaced with an optional one. Also the dampening
force can be easily adjusted, this feature makes it unnecessary to
change oil viscosity.
(A). Extension adjuster.
Low compression adjustment
To adjust, turn the fuel tank control with a screwdriver until you hear
a “CLICK”.
The total number of possible positions is: 30 “CLICKS”.
Rebound adjustment standard measures: 15 “CLICKS”.
(Counterclockwise from fully closed position).
High compression adjustment
To adjust, use a number 17 hex wrench. The control has 2.5 complete
turns.
As the control is closed the compression will be harder, on the other
-36-
Page 39
hand as it is opened it will be softer. Normally, the standard
measurement would be 2 turns from the completely closed position.
(A). Low and high
(A)
compression adjuster.
Suspension spring
The standard spring is 5.2 (280 cc, 300 cc) - 5.0 (125 cc, 200 cc) -
5.6 (MC). The spring length preloaded with the shock absorber at
rest is 258 mm.
Spring adjustment
- Remove the seat and side covers.
- Loosen the air cleaner duct clamp screw.
- Remove the muffler.
- Remove the subframe with the air cleaner box.
(B)
(A). Subframe.
(B). Air cleaner box.
(A)
(A)
- Tighten the locknut securely.
- After adjustment, move the spring up and down to make sure that
the spring is fully seated.
- Install the parts removed.
Rear shock absorber spring replacement
Harder and softer springs are available. If the standard spring is not
adequate for your purpose, select a proper one according to the
rider´s weight and the road conditions.
- Using the harder spring:The rebound is quicker.
- Using the softer spring:The rebound is slower.
Refer to the suspension adjustments on page 47.
-37-
(C)
(B)
NOTE
(A). Nut.
(B). Spring.
(C). Locknut.
Page 40
WARNING
Wheel rim runout
Improper installation of the rear shock absorber spring may cause
the spring and any of its related parts to be ejected at high velocity.
Always wear eye and face protection. The installation of these parts
should be performed by an authorized dealer.
WHEELS
Tires
- Tire pressure affects traction, and tire life.
- Adjust the tire pressure to match road conditions and rider’s
preference, but do not stray too far from the recommended pressure.
NOTE
Tire pressure should be checked when the tires are cold before
riding.
Road conditions
- When the road is wet, muddy, sandy or slippery, reduce the tire
pressure.
- On gravel roads or hard terrain, increase the tire pressure.
Spokes and wheel rims
The spokes on both wheels must be tightened evenly and should
not be allowed to have free play. Unevenly tightened or loose spokes
will cause wheel rim runout, the other spokes will be stressed and
might break.
Place a dial indicator at the rim side, and spin the wheel by hand
to measure the axial runout.
Place the dial indicator at the inner circumference of the wheel and
spin the wheel, the difference between the highest and lowest
quantities is the runout.
If the runout is not excesive it can be corrected tightening or loosening
some spokes with the spoke adjusting wrench (B). If the wheel rim
is curved or bent it must be replaced.
NOTE
A welded area on the rim may indicate excessive runout.
Disregard this when measuring rim runout.
(A). Spoke adjusting wrench.
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Page 41
CLEANING
1- Preparation for washing
Before washing the motorcycle, precautions must be taken to prevent
water from entering the following parts of the motorcycle.
Exhaust: Cover it with a plastic bag tightened with rubber bands.
CAUTION
To avoid excessive ageing of the plastic parts and other washable
pieces of the motorcycle, it is suggested that these items must be
washed carefully. If the washer applies water at high pressure and/or
temperature, take the precaution of maintaining the washer outlet
gun at a distance of 30 centimeters minimum, this will ensure the
correct gloss of the plastics and maintain adherence of the selfadhesive labels that decorate the motorcycle.
Clutch and brake levers, hand grips, and engine stop button:
Cover these parts with plastic bags.
Air cleaner intake: Cover the opening with tape or with a rag.
2- Where to be careful
Avoid spraying water with any great force near the following
areas:
- Brake calipers and brake pump piston.
- Ignition coil or into the spark plug cap.
- Front and rear wheel hubs.
- Steering bearings.
- Rear suspension system.
- Swingarm bearings.
3- After washing
- Remove the plastic bags, and clean the air cleaner intake.
- Lubricate the points listed in the lubrication section (see pag. 40).
- Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes.
- Check the brakes before operating the motorcycle.
WARNING
Never wax or lubricate the brake disc. Loss of braking and an accident
could result. Clean the disc with trichloroethylene or acetone.
-39-
Page 42
BOLTS AND NUTS TIGHTENING
Every day before riding, check the tighteness of the bolts and nuts described here. Also check that all other fasteners are in place and in good
condition.
11
10911 121613 1415171826
1- Front and rear wheel.
2- Front fork.
3- Handlebar.
4- Clutch lever holder screw.
5- Cylinder head bolt.
6- Spark plug.
7- Cylinder nuts.
8- Air cleaner box holder bolts.
9- Trailing plate bolts.
Primary nut
Clutch spring screws
Valve control support screws
Valve control nuts
Reed valve screws
Thermostat housing screws
Clutch housing screws
Valve housing screws
Ignition housing screws
Nm
25
25
20
20
25
15
27
9
10
8
8
40
15
40
10
10
8
10
10
10
8
10
Page 44
LUBRICATION
Lubricate the points shown here, apply either engine oil or grease,
periodically or whenever the vehicle has been operated under wet
or rainy conditions, and especially after using high water pressure.
Before lubricating each part, remove any rusty spots with rust remover
and wipe off any grease, oil, or dirt.
General lubrication
- Clutch lever (A).
- Front brake lever (B).
- Rear brake pedal (C).
- Rear brake bearing (D).
- Gearshift pedal (E).
(A)(B)
(D)(C)
(E)
Use an aerosol with a tube for pressure lubrication:
Apply grease inside
the gas cable (A).
-42-
Page 45
Drive Chain Lubrication
Lubricate the drive chain after driving on wet terrein or when the
chain looks dry. A high viscosity oil is preferred rather than a lower
viscosity because it will stick to the chain longer and lubricate the
chain better.
Apply oil to the sides of the chain rollers (A) for better oil penetration.
Wipe off any excess oil.
(A)
(A)
TUNE-UP
1. CARBURETOR TUNE-UP
Mixture
First step is to establish a basic knowledge on the identification and
operation of carburetor components. Change settings in accordance
with the temperature:
The main jet should be increased or decreased 1 to 5 sizes and
NOTE
tested until the engine gives maximum power.
Main jet
It has a great overall effect. The number stamped on lower part of
the main jet indicates the size of the hole metering fuel. A greater
number corresponds to a bigger hole which supplies more fuel.
(A). Apply grease.
(A). Main jet.
ConditionMixture Change setting
Cold airLean Rich
Warm airRich Lean
Dry air Lean Rich
Low altitude Standard Standard
High altitude Rich Lean
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain
conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure
the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or
sparks (this includes any appliance with a pilot light).
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Page 46
Idling nozzle and mixture adjustment screw
Controls the mixture from the closed position to an opening of 1/8
of throttle range, but has little effect on full throttle. To adjust the
mixture in this range, the air screw can be turned to change the air
flow through the circuit, or the slow jet can be changed to provide
more or less fuel. Start by turning the air screw. Screwing it in richens
the mixture. The air screw must be turned from a lightly seated
position. Make changes in 1/2 turn increments. If turning the screw
between 1 and 2.5 turns does not give the desired results, change
the slow jet (B) one step and tune up with the air screw (A).
Carburetor jet needle
The jet needle and jet needle hole together have their greatest effect
in the one-half throttle range. The needle moves in and out of the
jet needle hole; since the needle is tapered, its position in the jet
determines the amount of fuel allowed to flow.
There are five grooves in the upper section of the needle where a
circlip fits. This clip locates the needle in the throttle valve and
determines its relative position in the jet needle hole, and provides
a rich mixture. Moving the clip to the top will provide a lean mixture.
Change the clip position one step at a time. The straight area of the
needle affects throttle valve response in the small openings range.
Clip position
Jet needle
number
Right section
Test runs with the motorcycle
- Warm up the engine with the carburetor at the standard setting,
and inspect the operating conditions of the spark plug.
- Test-ride the motorcycle with the throttle opened.
Symptoms of improper settings
(B)
If your motorcycle exhibits one of the following symptoms the changes
must be adjusted. Before attempting any changes, make sure that
everything else is in good operating condition.
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Page 47
Check the condition of the spark plug, make sure the ingnition timing
is correct, service the air cleaner element, decarbonize the exhaust
tube
If you machine has run properly up to this point, it is possible that
the problem is elsewhere; changing the carburetor settings in such
a case would probably be a waste of time.
Spark plug condition
Correct
Too lean
Too rich
Insulator is dry & light tan color
White color insulator
Insulator is wet & black color
Replace the main jet to one
step larger
Replace the main jet to one
step smaller
Correction factors:
(For altitude or temperature changes).
1. Find the correction factor to adjust the carburetor.
Example: 1000 meters altitude with an air temperature of 35°C. The
correction factor is 0.94.
2. Using the correction factor, select the correct slow jet and main
jet.
Example: For a correction factor of 0.94 multiply the jet size by that
number.
Idle jet: # 50 x 0.94 = # 47.
Main jet: # 162 x 0.94 = # 158.
- Set the carburetor so that the engine delivers satisfactory power
with the throttle valve opened.
- If the air-fuel mixture is too lean, the engine tends to overheat and
may be seized. On the other hand, if it is too rich, the spark plug
easily gets wet and causes misfires. The proper mixture varies
depending on atmospheric conditions. Taking these conditions into
consideration, adjust the carburetor settings properly.
NOTE
Keep in mind that the carburetor components that regulate fuel
flow and the screw that control the flow of air must be tight.
The standard competition measurements EC 250 are an example.
FUEL
Throttle valve
Idle jet
Needle
Main Jet
UNLEADED
7
40
N1EF
180
3. Find the correction factor on the Jet Needle / Air Screw chart and
change the jet needle clip position and air screw opening as indicated.
- Jet needle clip setting: from the 3rd groove to the 2nd groove.
For the following recommendations to be accurate, you must
use the standard settings as a base-line. Also do not change
any of the settings until you have determined what changes are
necessary. All specifications are based on the use of the fuel
and oil specified.
This adjustment is very critical because if an improperly tuned
suspension will keep even the best rider from attaining the full benefit
of his machine´s ability. Check the suspension in accordance to the
rider and the terrain conditions.
- When the oil level is raised:
The spring effects become more progressive, and the front fork
action feels harder at the end of travel.
If the front suspension is making jounce stops, raise the oil level 10
mm. This increase will provoke a change in upper part of travel of
the spring.
- If the motorcycle is new, break-in the suspension with at least one
hour of riding before making any setting evaluations or changes.
- The three factors which must be considered are rider’s weight,
rider’s ability, and terrain conditions (additional influences include
the rider´s style and position on the motorcycle).
- If you have a problem, test by changing your riding posture or
position so it can be deduced.
- Adjust the suspension to match the rider´s strong points. If he is
fast through the corners, adjust the suspension to allow fast cornering.
- Make setting changes in small increments; a little bit goes a long
way, and it is very easy to overadjust a setting.
- The front and rear suspension should be balanced; when one is
changed, the other might need to be changed similarly.
- When evaluating suspension performance the rider must make
every effort to ride consistently and recognizing the effects of his
input; such things as changes in rider position and increasing fatigue
may lead to incorrect judgments about necessary setting adjustments.
- When the proper settings have been determined for a particular
terrain, the settings should be written down for later reference when
returning to the same type of terrain.
- Before making any changes and also every 5 fill-ups, lubricate the
swingarm bearings, torque rod, linkages and O-rings, this precaution
will prevent excesive friction that can affect the suspension
performance.
Front fork
The oil level is adjustable. A change in the oil level will not affect the
lower part of travel, but it will have an affect on the upper part of
travel:
- When the oil level is lowered:
The spring effects are less progressive, and the front fork action
does not become hard at the end of travel.
- Change the oil level correctly and the fork will work more at the
end of fork travel.
Oil level adjustment
Adjust the front fork oil level (refer to the maintenance chart).
High level
Nivel alto
Standard oil
Nivel estándar
level
aceite
Low level
Nivel bajo
Fuerza
Force
Suspension travel
Recorrido suspensión
-47-
End of
Final del
travel
recorrido
Page 50
Troubleshooting Improper Settings
Symptoms of the rear shock absorber:
Listed below are some symptoms of improper suspension settings
and the most likely means of correcting them.
The proper settings can be achieved by applying the information in
this chapter in a scientific manner. Take time to think about the
changes you believe necessary, check them against the symptoms
and cures described here, and make the changes in small increments,
and take notes on the changes and their effects.
Symptoms of the front fork
- The front fork is too stiff:
1. Incorrect rebound adjustment.
2. The springs are too hard.
3. Too much oil.
4. Oil too dense.
- The fork becomnes hard at the end of travel:
1. The oil level is too high.
- The fork operates but slides hard:
1. Oil too dense.
2. Degraded fork oil.
- Too soft:
The fork shakes excessively when slowing down or applying brakes
1. Fork oil level is low.
2. Springs are too soft.
3. Oil too light.
4. Degraded fork oil.
5. Incorrect rebound or compression.
- Too hard:
1. The suspension is too stiff
• Compression damping is too high.
• Spring is too hard.
2. Is hard to ride
• Unbalanced condition between the spring and rebound
(too low).
3. The spring is hard or preloaded too much
- Too soft:
On landing after a big jump, the suspension makes jounce stops.
1. Soft spring or compression damping is too soft.
2. Degraded shock absorber oil
Determining the proper settings:
- Standard Settings
From the factory, the machine is set up for an average-weight rider
with average riding abilities. Hence, if the actual rider’s weight or if
his riding experience and abilities are considerably superior or below
the average, ii is necessary to make adjustments to the suspension.
- Readjustment of the suspension:
Ground surface
SmoothSoft spring
RoughHard spring
-
48
-
Page 51
Riding experience
Front and rear compatibility:
Beginner: Soft spring with rebound.
Experienced: Harder spring.
Rider's weight
Heavy: Hard spring.
Light: Soft spring.
Type of racing circuit
- Many corners:
Lower the front end slightly (Raise the fork tubes 5 mm).This increases
agility.
- Fast course with many jumps:
Raise the fornt end slightly (Lower the fork tubes 5 mm).
- Deep potholes or sandy ground:
Raise the front end slightly to gain stability.
After making such preliminary adjustments, begin the actual on-track
testing and evaluation.
CAUTION
1- Make changes one step at a time.
2- Make sure the rider is consistent in this evaluation.
3- A change in the front suspension requires a change in the rear,
and vice versa.
Use this procedure to determine if the suspension is balanced. Place
the motorcycle upright. While standing next to the right side of the
motorcycle, hold the front brake and press the rear brake pedal firmly.
If the motorcycle maintains its level attitude as the suspension is
compressed, the spring rates are well balanced. Sit astride the
motorcycle and take a riding posture. Next check to see that the
motorcycle is in a horizontal position. If one end drops noticeably
more than the other, the front and rear are not compatible and must
be readjusted to achieve a better balance.
This is one of the most effective adjustment procedures but suspension
settings will vary depending on the conditions at the terrain and the
rider´s preferences.
Does the motorcycle skids when driving down hill or when
accelerating out of a curve?
Front fork is too soft.
1. Increase the compression or rebound damping.
2. Increase the oil level 10 mm.
3. Use a harder spring, or increase spring preload.
Does the front end tends to turn inward?
Front fork is too soft.
1. Increase the compression or rebound damping.
2. Increase the oil level 10 mm.
Does the front end slips when entering in a curve?
1. Decrease the compression or rebound damping.
2. Bleed air trapped in the fork.
3. Decrease the oil level 10-20 mm.
4. Use a softer spring.
-49-
Page 52
Does the front fork fails to respond to small potholes while
managing wide turns?
Front Fork is hard:
1. Decrease the compression or rebound damping.
2. Decrease the oil level 10 mm.
3. Use softer duty spring.
Does the rear end jumps when braking over potholes?:
The shock absorber probably has too little rebound damping.
- Increase the rebound damping.
Does the rear tire lacks traction when coming out of corners?:
- The shock absorber is too hard:
1. Decrease the rear shock absorber spring.
2. Decrease the compression damping.
3. Use a softer spring.
Does it land on the front wheel in high speed jumps?:
(there may be a problem with the driver’s posture)
Rebound damping too soft or hard spring.
1. Increase the rebound damping.
2. Decrease the shock absorber spring preload.
3. Decrease the compression damping.
Does the suspension jounce stops at front and rear of the
motorcycle in high speed jumps?:
(If this occurs 1 or 2 times in the same lap of the race)
Front and rear suspension system are too soft:
1. Front: Increase the oil lever and / or use a harder spring.
2. Rear: Increase compression damping or use a harder spring.
Adjustments that depend on the conditions of the jounce stops
(rear shock absorber).
- Suspension jounce stops at low speed, increase the spring preload
to the maximum setting.
- Jounce stops after 3 or 4 successive jumps, decrease the rebound
damping.
NOTE
The rear shock absorber due to its setting possibilities may
mislead some riders.
a) The rear shock absorber does not jounce stop when the spring
is correct for the total weight of the machine and rider.
b) A jounce stop sensation of the shock absorber may be caused
by the rider’s inexperience in riding a machine with a harder
spring.
Observe the rear end while it jumps; if it does not approach the
stopper, try lowering the sping preload.
Gearshift
Select the ratio development. Preconditions:
Race conditions: vary the transmission replacing the rear pinion.
Fast race: use pinions with less teeths.
Winding road or soft or sandy uphill surface: use pinions with more
teeths.
After any adjustment, check front and rear compatibility.
NOTE
- If the straight portion of the course is long, the ratio development
can be extended and due to this the speed increases.
- When the course has many corners or uphills or is wet, the ratio
development will be reduced so that gear shifting is possible at
low speed.
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Page 53
- Actually, the speed can be changed depending on the terrain
conditions on the day of the race and therefore, be sure to run
through the racing circuit prior to a race and set the machine
suitable for the entire course.
- If the straight portion of a course on which the machine can be run
at maximum speed is long, the motorcycle should be set so that
the maximum machine speed can be developed towards the end
of the straight course, but care should be taken not to over-rev the
engine.
- It is very difficult to adjust the motorcycle to be best setting for all
portions of the circuit. Therefore, determine which circuit portions
will have the greatest effect on lap time and set the motorcycle for
these portions. In this manner the motorcycle will deliver best
performance for the entire circuit.
Special care according to the terrain conditions.
1. In dry, dusty conditions special care must be given to keep the
air cleaner element clean since it accumulates dirt and the engine
operates too “rich”.
FINAL RECOMMENDATIONS
PREVENTIVE ADVICE
Before you ride the motorcycle, take all the time you may require
to check your motorcycle, carry out the periodical upkeep and check
all functions. In different sections of this manual you will find data
and work specifications that must be done at an autorized GAS GAS
dealer, because of this and to extend the useful life of the motorcycle,
all periodical inspections must be carried out by specially trained
professionals at a GAS GAS Post-Sale Service Shop.
Poor maintenance work of the motorcycle or not taking proper care
of any problem, even if its is a small concern, can cause severe
personal injury and may lead to death.
SAFE RIDING OF YOUR MOTORCYCLE
Safe riding of a motorcycle does not only depend on the vehicle.
The driver’s intelligence and common sense are key factors to be
taken into consideration. It is recommended that you practice your
favorite sport wearing all the necessary safety equipment (helmet,
protection gear, boots, etc.).
2. When riding on wet heavy clay the mud adheres to the tires and
other parts of the vehicle. The mud can add significantly to the
weight of the vehicle and therefore reduce performance. Take
care so that the engine is not overheated. The same applies
when driving in deep sand.
3. In muddy or sandy conditions loosen the drive chain slack to
release its tension.
4. Check chain and sprocket - pinion wear frequently when riding
in mud or sand since wear is increased under these conditions.
SPARE PARTS AVAILABLE
Refer to the sparts parts catalogue.
LEGAL ADVICE
In the interest of technical development we reserve the right to
modify the construction, the equipment and accesories of the
motorcycle. It is understood that all measurements, weights and
power data must include their respective tolerances. The photographs
included in this manual may not match the model you have purchased.
The descriptions and the illustrations may vary depending on the
volume of equipment and accesories of your motorcycle and also
of the versions exported. Because of this, there can be no liability
except in case of errors, misprint or omission.
GAS GAS MOTOS, S.A. reserves the right to make changes and/or
modifications at any time without notice.
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Page 54
HOMOLOGATION (SM y EC):
The vehicle you have just acquired has been homologated under the directives of the EU and complies with all the homologation requirements
demanded.
Compulsory homologation elements required, among others, when travelling on a public road and to meet periodical vehicle inspection
approval at state controlled plants are listed below.
Among other requirements, all homologation components are identified with a determined and registered mark.
List of elements required: Quantity / motorcycle
- Manufacture identification plate1
- Catalyzed exhaust 1
- Muffler1
- Carburettor jets1
- Front and rear turn signals4
- License plate holder1
- Speedometer1
- Electrical installation, homologated lights1
- Horn1
- Rearview mirror2
- Antitheft system1
- Antimanipulation plate (125 cc version)1
- Secondary air valve 1
- Air filter restiction 1
- Throttle limiter (EC 200, 250, 300)1
Each one of the homologation components must form part of the vehicle and in case of loss, breakage or malfunction it is recommended that
the owner contact his official dealer to correct this problem.
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Page 55
PREPARATION FOR COMPETITION
(2). After 1 day of racing competition:
(1). Check:
1. Front axle and bridges nuts tightness.
2. Front fork clamp bolts tightness.
3. Handlebar clamp bolts tightness.
4. Throttle grip screws tightness.
5. Throttle grip operation and apply grease.
6. Front and rear brake hose inspection.
7. Front and rear brake fluid level.
8. Front and rear brake disc and caliper inspection.
9. Front and rear brake operation test.
10. Fuel tank inspection.
11. Verify the installation of all cables.
12. Engine mounting bolts tightness.
13. Verify output pinion.
14. Gearshift pedal bolts tightness.
15. Transmission oil level.
16. Battery charge.
17. Throttle body.
18. Linkage tie rod mounting bolts tightness.
19. Linkages mounting bolts tightness.
20. Rear shock absorber bolts tightness.
21. Swingarm shaft nut tightness.
22. Rear axle nut tightness.
23. Rear sprocket bolts and nuts tightness.
24. Rear brake pedal operation.
25. Seat inspection.
26. Wheel spokes tightness.
27. Front and rear tire air pressure.
28. Drive chain slack.
29. Coolant level.
1. Clean the air cleaner element.
2. Adjust drive chain slack.
3. Tighten rear sprocket nuts.
4. Tighten all spokes.
5. Check the tires air pressure.
6. Tighten front and rear axle nuts.
7. Tighten swingarm shaft nut.
8. Tighten muffler and exhaust bolts and nuts.
9. Tighten front and rear fender mounting bolts and nuts.
10. Tighten fuel tank and seat mounting bolts and nuts.
11. Check brakes.
12. Check steering free play.
13. Fill fuel tank .
14. Check coolant level .
(3). Maintenance after riding on dusty course:
If dirt or dust gets into the engine, the crankshaft will wear out
excessively. After riding, inspect the crankshaft. If the crankshaft is
worn beyond the service limit, change it
(4). Maintenance after riding in rain or muddy course:
1. Apply grease to swingarm pivot and the suspension system.
2. Inspect the drive chain and rear sprocket and pinion wear.
3. Clean the sprocket and pinion.
4. Check the cylinder–piston and crankshaft bearings.
5. Grease the throttle grip and cable.
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Page 56
STORAGE
For extended storage of the motorcycle, you must do the following:
- Clean the motorcycle thoroughly.
- Start the engine for about 5 minutes to warm up the transmission oil and then
drain it (refer to the transmission section).
- Fill with new transmission oil.
- Empty the fuel tank (gasoline will deteriorate if left too long).
- Disconnect the battery.
- Lubricate the drive chain and all cables.
- Cover all unpainted metal surfaces with a coat of oil to prevent rust, do not
apply oil to the brakes and rubber parts.
- Cover the exhaust pipe with a plastic bag to prevent corrosion.
- Place the motorcycle in such a position so that the wheels do not touch the
ground (if this is not possible, place cardboards under the wheels).
- Cover the motorcycle to protect it from dust and dirt.
When starting off after an extended storage:
- Remove the plastic bag from the exhaust pipe.
- Tighten the spark plug.
- Fill the fuel tank.
- Check all points marked in the section “Daily Inspection Before Riding”.
- General lubrication.
- Connect the battery.
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Page 57
GAS GAS MULTIFUNCTION INSTRUCTIONS
Panel description
The multifunction apparatus, which is waterproof, has 4-8 LED
indicators on both sides of a central indicator screen
This central indicator screen, made of liquid crystal and with
illumination, gives information about the rpm, speed, journey,
kilometres travelled, time, average speed, maximum speed,
length of time with motor running and total time, and fuel level.
The data relative to the distance travelled and total time of use
is stored in the memory, even when the apparatus is switched
off. When the multifunction apparatus is not activated, it displays
a clock.
The wheel circumference value is adaptable, as is the measuring
system (metric or imperial).
The number and distribution of the LED indicators, and the
amount of information on screen may vary according to model.
Panel
5
4
3
2
1
6
7
8
1. RESET button
2. 2nd row of indicators
3. 1st row of indicators
4. Tachometer with bar graph
5. Tachometer scale
6. Fuel indicator bars (optional)
7. LED indicator symbols
8. MODE button
Description of symbols
Left indicator / Green
Dipped headlights / Green
Motor oil / Red (Optional)
Right indicator / Green
Full headlights / Blue
Neutral / Green (Optional)
N
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Page 58
Technical characteristics
FUNCTIONSSymbol
Bar Tachometer
Digital Tachometer
Gear change indicator
Maximum Tachometer Value
Speedometer
Speedometer
Average Speed
Distance counter 1&2
Mileometer
Time in use
Total time
Clock
Initial voltage: 12v CC.
Speed sensor Non-contact magnetic sensor.
Tachometer entry CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) or ignition coil signal.
Wheel circumference adjustment 1 mm – 3.999 mm (1 mm increments).
Working temperature: -10ºC - + 80ºC (engine casing interior).
Fuel sensor resistance 100 (only in models with fuel level indicator).
100 - 19.900 rpm100 rpm
TRIP 1&2
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS INCREMENTS
500 - 11.000 rpm 500 rpm
RPM 100 - 19.900 rpm 100 rpm
RPM 100 - 19.900 rpm 100 rpm
MAX
RPM
2,3 - 300 km/h (187,5 m/h)0,1 km/h o m/h
MAX 2,3 - 300 km/h (187,5 m/h)0,1 km/h o m/h
AVG 2,3 - 300 km/h (187,5 m/h)0,1 km/h o m/h
0 - 999.9 km or 0 - 624.9 miles0.1 km or miles
ODO
0 - 999,999 km or 0 - 624,999 miles0.1 km or miles
RT0:00'00" - 99:59' 59"
TT0:00' - 9999:59'
0:00'00" - 23:59' 59"
1 second
1 minute
1 second/1 minute
PRECISION
± 1% o ± 0,1
km/h / m/h
± 1% o ± 0,1
km/h / m/h
± 1% o ± 0,1
km/h / m/h
± 0,1 %
± 0,1%
± 50 ppm
± 50 ppm
± 50 ppm
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Page 59
Functions
RPM: Bar
Tachometer with bar graph The bar graph of the tachometer displays
up to 11,000 rpm.
RPM: Digital Tachometer
The rpm is shown in the second row The digital tachometer displays
up to 19,900 rpm The tachometer signal can be read from the CDI
(Capacitator Discharge Ignition) or the ignition coil.
Gear change indicator according to rpm
This function permits setting an indicator for changing gear at a
specific rpm level The tachometer bar flashes when the rpm reaches
the specific level and stops flashing when the gear is changed.
MAX RPM: Maximum tachometer value
It appears in the 2nd row. It shows the highest level reached by the
tachometer since the last resetting of the data.
SPD: Speedometer
The speedometer information appears in the first line of the screen
It shows up to 300 km/h or 187.5 mph.
MAX: Maximum speed gauge
The MAX value appears in the 1st line. It shows the highest speed
reached since the last resetting of the data.
AVG: Average driving speed
The AVG value appears in the 1st line. It calculates the average
speed since the last RESET operation.
TRIP: Journey counter
This appears in the second line of the screen. The TRIP function
contains the vehicle’s accumulated mileage since the last RESET
operation.
ODO: Mileometer
It shows the total mileage accumulated by the vehicle.
The data is stored in the memory, even when the device is not
running.
RT: Time of use controller
It calculates the total time in use since the last RESET operation. It
starts counting from the moment that movement begins.
TT: Total time of use controller
It calculates the vehicle’s total time in use. It starts counting from the
moment that movement begins. The data is stored in the memory,
even when the device is not running.
12/24 hour clock
It shows the time in either 12 or 24 hour formats.
Fuel level indicator (only vehicles with this function)
It has 7 bars showing the amount of fuel remaining in the fuel tank.
The last bar flashes to indicate that the fuel level is too low.
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Page 60
Operation of the buttons
MODE BUTTON
1. Press the MODE button to switch from one function screen to another when the speed sensor detects no signal.
2. Press the MODE button to switch from one partial screen to another when the speed
sensor detects a signal.
RESET BUTTON
1. Press the MODE button to reach the appropriate screen, and then press RESET
for 2 seconds to return the data stored in TRIP 2, MAX and MAX RPM to zero
separately.
2. Return the data in TRIP 1, AVG and RT at the same time. The data of the ODO,
CLOCK and TT. cannot be returned to zero.
OPERATION OF THE GEAR CHANGE ACCORDING TO RPM
1. Press the MODE button to switch to the RPM screen; accelerate to the rpm which is desired for the gear change indicator to be activated.
2. Press the RESET button to confirm and establish the gear change indicator according to the rpm.
3. The tachometer with bar graph and a LED will flash to indicate the need to change gear.
4. Use the steps 1 and 2 to readjust the gear change according to RPM.
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Page 61
Multifunction and wheel circumference adjustment
The configuration operations include the 12/24 hour clock, the gear change according to rpm indicator, the number of engine revolutions by
signal, the wheel circumference and the units of measurement The configuration must be carried out step by step. The computer will return
automatically to the main screen if no button is pressed in any adjustment screen for 75 seconds.
Press the MODE and RESET buttons to switch to the adjustment screen. In the adjustment screen, press the RESET button to increase the
1.
value of the flashing digits or to convert units, press the MODE button to confirm the configuration and move on to the next digit or the next
adjustment screen to be configured. Press the MODE button for 2 seconds in any adjustment screen to conclude the configuration and return
to the main screen.
The screen shows 12 or 24 h, and the symbols: XX: XX-XX, and AM/PM if the 12h option has been selected.
2.
When the RESET button is pressed the 12/24h system changes, and when MODE is pressed, the configuration concludes and the configuration
3.
of the clock digits opens.
Press the RESET button to increase the value of the flashing digit one by one; press the MODE button to confirm the configuration and pass
4.
on to the following digit.
Press the MODE button to switch to the adjustment screen of the gear change according to rpm, once the clock has been configured.
5.
The screen will show RPM rXXX00. Press the RESET button to increase the value of the digit one by one; press the MODE button to confirm
6.
the configuration and pass on to the following digit.
Press the MODE button to switch to the adjustment screen for the engine revolution by signal, once the gear change according to rpm
7.
configuration is completed.
The screen will show SPC-X.X RPM, with 1.0 as the default value There are 4 options 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 and 0.5. They correspond to the number
8.
of revolutions for each signal. For example, a value of 2.0 means that the motor turns over twice to produce a signal.
Press the RESET button to move between the four values . Press the MODE button to confirm the configuration and to move on to the wheel
9.
circumference adjustment screen
When cXXXX appears on screen, the “c” stands for “circumference” and is followed by four digits by default; the flashing digit is the one to be changed.
10.
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Page 62
11.
Press the RESET button to increase the value of the flashing digit one by one; press the MODE button for 2 seconds to confirm the digit
change and pass on to the following digit.
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Page 63
TROUBLESHOOTING
MALFUNCTION
Engine does not crank
1
Engine cranks but then stops
2
Engine overheating
3
The engine operates irregularly
4
This is not an exhaustive list of malfunctions, it only shows the most common problems.
NOTE
POSSIBLE CAUSEREMEDY
- Seized crankshaft.
- Seized cylinder / piston / jornal bearing.
- Seized transmission assembly.
- Motorcycle inactive too long.
- Wet or fouled spark plug.
- Flooded engine.
- Incorrect air/fuel mixture.
- Exhaust valve stuck open
- Incorrect air supply.
- No fuel.
- Insufficient cooling liquid in the circuit.
- Radiator is dirty or partially restricted.
- Spark plug dirty, or misadjusted.
- Poor contact with the spark plug cap or
cable loose in cap.
- Go to a specialized workshop.
- Go to a specialized workshop.
- Go to a specialized workshop.
Drain old fuel out of the tank. With the fuel tank filled with
new fuel, the engine will start immediately.
- Clean and dry or replace the spark plug.
- In order to "relieve the engine", accelerate to max. speed,
press the starter pedal 5 or 10 times. Then, start the engine
as described above. If the engine fails to start, remove the
spark plug and dry it.
- Clean the fuel tank air vent. Adjust the air cleaner duct.
- Verify the exhaust valve and repair as necessary.
- Close the starter. Clean fuel tank air vent. Adjust the air
cleaner duct.
- Fill up the fuel tank.
- Fill up cooling liquid, verify the refrigeration system
watertightness.
- Clean radiator fins or replace it.
- Verify the spark plug condition and clean it accordingly,
tighten or replace it.
- Verify the spark plug cap condition. Replace if deteriorated.
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Page 64
MALFUNCTIONPOSSIBLE CAUSEREMEDY
The engine operates irregularly
4
Engine lacks power or poor
5
acceleration
Abnormal engine noise
6
Detonations from the exhaust
7
pipe
White smoke coming out of the
8
exhaust pipe
Brown smoke coming out of the
9
exhaust pipe
- Ignition rotor damaged.
- Water in fuel.
- Fuel supply defective.
- Dirty air cleaner.
- Leaking or deteriorated exhaust system.
- Dirty carburetor jets.
- Worn or damaged crankshaft bearings.
- Clutch slips.
- Ignition problem.
- Overheating.
- Carbon build up in combustion chamber.
- Incorrect octane or poor quality gasoline.
- Damaged spark plug or incorrect
specifications.
- Deteriorated exhaust system gaskets.
- Deteriorated cylinder head gasket (water
leakage into the cylinder).
- Incorrect throttle valve cable adjustment.
- Restricted air cleaner.
- Main jet set too high.
- Replace the rotor.
- Drain the fuel tank and fill up with new fuel.
- Clean the fuel system and verify its operation.
- Clean or replace the air cleaner. Verify its operation.
- Verify if the exhaust system is damaged. Replace the
muffler fiberglass packing, if necessary.
- Disassembly the carburetor and clean all jets.
- Replace the crankshaft bearings.
- Verify the clutch operation. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Go to a specialized workshop.
- Refer to section 5.
- Clean the combustion chamber.
- Drain all gasoline and fill up with a higher octane fuel.
- Replace the spark plug with a new one of the correct type.
- Verify if the exhaust system is damaged. All gaskets must
be in perfect conditions, otherwise replace them with new
ones if necessary.
- Replace the cylinder head gasket. Go to a
specialized workshop.
- Readjust the throttle valve cable.
- Clean or replace the air cleaner. Go to a specialized
workshop.
- Verify main jet operation. Go to a specialized workshop.
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Page 65
MALFUNCTIONPOSSIBLE CAUSEREMEDY
10
Gears do not engage correctly
11
Jumps out of gear
12
Clutch slips
13
The motorcycle is unstable
- Clutch does not disengage.
- Bent or seized shift fork.
- Gear seized at the transmission.
- Damaged gearshift lever.
- Broken or loose selector position spring.
- Broken spring in the reverse selector
mechanism.
- Broken spring in the reverse selector
mechanism.
- Broken gear drum.
- Broken spring in the gear selector ratchet.
- Shift fork worn at the gears.
- Worn gear grooves.
- Worn gear dogs.
- Worn shift drum groove.
- Worn shift fork shaft.
- Broken selector drum position spring.
- Broken gears.
- No clutch lever free play.
- Worn clutch friction plate.
- Worn clutch center hub.
- Broken or weak clutch spring.
- Unevenly worn clutch discs.
- Cable interferes with the handlebar turns.
- Steering stem locknut too tight.
- Damaged or worn steering bearings.
- Bent steering stem.
- Go to a specialized workshop.
- Replace the shift fork.
- Go to a specialized workshop.
- Replace the gearshift lever.
- Adjust or replace the selector position spring.
- Replace the spring in the reverse selector
mechanism.
- Replace the spring in the reverse selector
mechanism.
- Replace the gear drum.
- Replace the spring in the gear selector ratchet.
- Replace the shift fork.
- Replace. Go to a specialized workshop
- Replace. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Replace. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Replace shaft. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Replace the spring. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Go to a specialized workshop.
- Go to a specialized workshop.
- Replace the clutch friction plate.
Go to a specialized workshop.
- Replace the clutch center hub.
- Adjust or replace the clutch spring.
- Replace the clutch discs. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Move or loosen the cable just a little.
- Loosen the steering stem locknut.
- Replace the steering bearings.
- Replace the steering stem. Go to a specialized workshop.
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Page 66
MALFUNCTIONPOSSIBLE CAUSEREMEDY
Shock absorber set too hard
14
- Excessive front fork oil.
- Front fork oil viscosity too high.
- Bent front fork.
- Pour excess oil until reaching the correct oil level.
- Drain fork oil and fill with correct fork oil viscosity.
- Replace the front fork. Go to a specialized workshop.
Shock absorber set too soft
15
Abnormal motorcycle noises
16
Handlebar vibration
17
- Tire air pressure set too high.
- Incorrect rear shock absorber adjustment.
- Insufficient front fork oil.
- Front fork oil viscosity too low.
- Bent front fork.
- Tire air pressure too low.
- Incorrect rear shock absorber adjustment.
- Incorrect drive chain adjustment .
- Worn drive chain.
- Worn rear sprocket teeth.
- Insufficient drive chain lubrication .
- Incorrect rear wheel alignment.
- Insufficient front fork oil.
- Weak or broken front fork spring.
- Worn disc brake.
- Pad installed incorrectly or surface glazed.
- Damaged cylinder.
- Improperly tightened brackets, nuts, bolts.
- Worn tire, and worn swingarm or its
needle bearings.
- Wheel rim off-centre.
- Incorrect wheel alignment.
-64-
- Check tire air pressure.
- Adjust rear shock absorber.
- Fill with fork oil until reaching the correct oil level.
- Drain fork oil and fill with correct fork oil viscosity.
- Replace the front fork. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Check tire air pressure.
- Adjust the rear shock absorber.
- Adjust the drive chain.
- Replace the drive chain, rear sprocket and the secondary
transmission pinion.
- Replace the rear sprocket.
- Lubricate with appropriate chain oil.
- Align the rear wheel. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Add front fork oil until reaching the correct level.
- Replace the front fork spring.
- Change the disc brake.
- Reinstall or replace pad.
- Replace the damaged cylinder.
- Verify and adjust to the correct torque values.
- Replace worn parts with new ones.
- Centre rim.
- Verify wheel spokes tension. Readjust if necessary.
Page 67
MALFUNCTIONPOSSIBLE CAUSEREMEDY
Handlebar vibration
17
Motorcycle pull to one side
18
Brakes do not operate correctly
19
Blown light bulbs
20
Lighting system does not
21
operate
- Excessive steering axles tolerances.
- Loose handlebar bracket, and loose
handlebar stem locknut.
- Bent chassis.
- Incorrect steering adjustment.
- Bent steering stem.
- Bent front fork.
- Incorrect wheel alignment.
- Worn discs.
- Leaking brake fluid.
- Deteriorated brake fluid.
- Broken pump piston.
- Incorrect brake adjustment.
- Defective voltage regulator.
- Blown lighting relay fuse.
- Tighten steering bracket and steering stem locknut to the
correct torque values.
- Tighten steering bracket and steering stem locknut to the
correct torque values.
- Replace the chassis. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Adjust the steering. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Replace the steering stem. Go to a specialized workshop.
- Replace the front fork.
- Align the wheels.
- Replace the discs.
- Verify the brake circuits. Replace the damaged or broken
parts.
- Drain the brake fluid and fill with the new fluid recommended
by the manufacturer.
- Replace the pump piston.
- Adjust brakes.
- Remove the seat and the fuel tank, and check all
connections, check the voltage regulator and the fuses in
the fuse box .
- Remove the seat, the fuse box cover, and replace the
fuse.
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Page 68
Front right
indicator
Front brake
sensor
Front
sidelight
Dipped/
Full beam
Headlights
Speed
sensor
ELECTRIC SCHEMAS
Ignition coil
BlBlack
Bu Blue
GrGrey
BrBrown
WWhite
RRed
GGreen
PPink
OOrange
YYellow
VViolet
GL Bright green
Magnetic
flywheel
Rear brake
sensor
Indicator relay
Rear right
indicator
Rear
sidelight/
brake light
Rear left
indicator
Front left
indicator
Magnetic
flywheel
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Horn
Power
controller
Page 69
WARRANTY TERMS AND CONDITIONS
(According to Law decree 23/2003 on the 10th of July, covering Warranties on Consumer Item Sales)
Warranty terms of the manufacturer GASGAS Motos, S.A.
The company GAS GAS MOTOS, S.A. (hereafter referred to as “GG”), with this present document guarantees the consumer,
the purchaser of a vehicle manufactured by GG, that both the materials and the manufacturing are free of defects in
accordance with the highest standards of quality. Consequently, GG with this document guarantees the consumer (hereafter
referred to as the “purchaser”), in accordance with the conditions set out below, the repair, free of charge, of any defect in
materials or that might result from faulty manufacture that is detected in a new motorcycle within the period covered by
this Warranty and with no limit on the number of kilometres covered or hours of use.
Warranty Period
The period covered by this Warranty will begin on the day of delivery of the vehicle to the purchaser by a GG authorised
dealer, or in the case of demonstration models, on the date in which the vehicle is used for the first time.
The seller will be responsible for any unwarranted faults that become apparent within the period established in the Law
decree 23/2003 on the 10th of July covering Warranties on Consumer Goods Sold from the time of delivery and in accordance
with the Directive 1999/44/EC for other members of the European Community. For countries outside the European
Community, the Warranty Period will be determined by the existing regulations in those countries. Nevertheless, should
the fault appear during the first six months after the delivery of the motorcycle, it will be presumed that the said fault existed
at the time of delivery; from the end of the sixth month onwards, the purchaser must demonstrate that the unwarranted
fault existed at the moment of delivery. During the first six months subsequent to the delivery of the repaired vehicle, the
seller will be responsible for any unwarranted faults arising out of the repair.
Any defects detected in the product must be brought to the attention of a GG authorised dealer within the Warranty Period.
If the last day of this period is a Sunday or an official holiday, the Warranty period will be extended such that the last day
of the period covered will be the first working day after the Sunday or official holiday.
Those claims under Warranty for defects not brought to the attention of a GG authorised dealer before the end
of the Warranty Period will be excluded.
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Page 70
Obligation of the purchaser
GG will have the right to reject any claims under Warranty in the event that:
a) The purchaser has failed to submit the vehicle to any of the inspections and/or maintenance work required in the Users’
Manual, or has exceeded the date set for such inspections or maintenance work. Also excluded from guarantee are those
faults that appeared prior to the dates established for an inspection or maintenance work where the latter was not carried
out, or was carried out later than the date established.
b) An inspection, maintenance or repair has been performed on the vehicle by third parties not recognised or authorised
by GG.
c) Any maintenance or repair has been carried out on the vehicle that violates the technical requirements, specifications
and/or instructions indicated by the manufacturer.
d) Spare parts whose use has not been authorised by GG have been used during the course of maintenance work or repairs
to the vehicle, or in the event that the vehicle has been used with fuels, lubricants or other liquids (including, amongst others,
cleaning products) that have not been expressly mentioned in the specifications set out in the User’s Manual.
e) The vehicle has been altered or modified in any way or fitted with components other than those expressly authorised by
GG as accepted components of the vehicle.
f) The vehicle has been stored or transported in a way that is not in accordance to the corresponding technical requirements.
g) The vehicle has been used for special purposes other than ordinary use, such as competition, races or record breaking
attempts.
h) The vehicle has been directly or indirectly damaged as a result of a fall or an accident.
Warranty exclusions
The following items are not covered by this Warranty:
a) Worn parts, including, without any limitation, spark plugs, batteries, petrol filters, oil filter elements, (secondary) chains,
engine output pinions, rear sprockets, air filters, brake discs, brake pads, clutch plates and discs, bulbs, fuses, carbon
brushes, footrest rubbers, tyres, inner tubes, cables and other rubber components
b) Lubricants (for example, oil, grease, etc.) and working fluids (for example, battery liquid, coolant, etc.)
c) Inspection, adjustments and other maintenance tasks, as well as all kinds of cleaning work
d) Damage to the paint-work and consequent corrosion due to external causes, such as stones, salt, industrial fumes and
other environmental impact, or inadequate cleaning with inappropriate products
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e) Any damages caused as a result of the defects, as well as any expenses incurred either directly or indirectly as a consequence
of the defects (for example, communication costs, accommodation expenses, car hire costs, public transport costs, breakdown
truck fees,, courier costs, etc.), as well as other financial losses (for example, those caused by the loss of the use of the
vehicle, loss of income, time lost, etc.)
f) Any acoustic or aesthetic phenomenon that does not significantly affect the condition or use of the motorcycle (for example,
small or hidden imperfections, noise or vibrations that are normal in use, etc.)
g) Phenomena that are the result of the ageing of the vehicle (for example, discolouring of painted or metallic coated surfaces).
Various
1.- GG shall have the prerogative to decide, at its own discretion, whether to repair or replace defective parts. Where parts
are replaced, ownership of the parts removed shall pass to GG without any other consideration. The GG authorised dealer,
to whom the making good of the defects has been entrusted, is not authorised to make any declarations that are binding on
GG.
2.- In case of doubt regarding the existence of a defect, or a visual or material inspection is required, GG reserves the right
to demand the return of the parts which are the object of a claim under Warranty, or to arrange an inspection of the defect
by an expert from GG. Any additional obligations arising out of guarantees on parts replaced free of charge, or any other
service rendered free of charge, are excluded from the effects of this present warranty. The Warranty on parts replaced within
the Warranty Period will end at the expiry date for the Warranty Period of the product concerned.
3.- Should it prove to be the case that a defect can not be repaired, the purchaser guaranteed shall have the right to the
cancellation of the contract (payment of compensation) or a partial refund of the purchase price (discount), instead of repairing
the motorcycle.
4.- Any claims against Warranty by the purchaser under the terms of the sale contract with the corresponding authorised
dealer shall not be affected by the terms of this present Warranty. Neither will this present Warranty affect those additional
contractual rights acquired by the purchaser under the general commercial terms and conditions of the authorised dealer.
However, such additional rights may only be exercised through claims against the authorised dealer.
5.- Should the purchaser resell the product within the Warranty Period, the duration and conditions of the present Warranty
will remain unaltered, in such a way as that the rights to make claims under the present Warranty in accordance with the
terms and conditions set out in this present document shall be transferred to the new owner of the motorcycle.
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Notes
Notes
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Notes
Notes
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