Ford Scorpio 1985 1998, Scorpio User Manual

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Air conditioner condenser check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Air conditioner refrigerant charge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Automatic choke check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Automatic transmission brake band adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Automatic transmission selector lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Brake system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Camshaft drivebelt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

Crankcase ventilation vent valve renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Driveshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Engine inlet manifold security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Engine valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Final drive oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Front and rear brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Hot starting check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Idle mixture check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Idle speed linkage clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Ignition system component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Manual gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Oil filler cap check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See end of Chapter

Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are
the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer
for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak
condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because
it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven

frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more
frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory­authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.

1•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Contents

1

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Check the engine oil level (Section 3).
mm Check the engine coolant level (Section 3).
mm Check the brake fluid level (Section 3).
mm Check the screen washer fluid level (Section 3).
mm Visually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear or

damage (Section 4).

mm Check and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures

(Section 4).

mm Check and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte

level - where applicable (Section 6).

mm Check the operation of the horn, all lights, and the

wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7).

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
6 months – whichever comes sooner

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 8)
mm Check brake pads for wear (front and rear) (Section 9)
mm Check tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13)
mm Check idle speed (1.8 litre only) (Section 15)
mm Check idle mixture (not fuel-injection models) - at first

6000 miles only (Section 16)

mm Clean oil filler cap (Section 14)
mm Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid

leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)

mm Check function and condition of seat belts (Section 11)
mm Check operation of brake fluid level warning indicator

(Section 9)

mm Check condition and security of exhaust system

(Section 12).

Ford Granada maintenance schedule

1•2

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months – whichever comes sooner

mm Check operation of latches, check straps and locks; lubricate if

necessary (Section 19)

mm Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s); adjust or

renew as necessary (Section 21)

mm Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and neutralise

corrosion if necessary (Section 22)

mm Check engine valve clearances (Section 23)
mm Check tightness of inlet manifold bolts (V6 only) (Section 24)
mm Renew spark plugs (Section 20)
mm Clean air conditioning condenser fins (when applicable)

(Section 25)

mm Check air conditioning refrigerant charge (when applicable)

(Section 26)

mm Check manual gearbox oil level (Section 18)
mm Check final drive oil level (Section 27)
mm Lubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown linkage

(Section 28)

mm Check security and condition of steering and suspension

components, gaiters and boots (Section 29)

mm Check condition and security of driveshaft joints (Section 30)
mm Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other damage

(Section 31)

mm Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 32)
mm Clean idle speed control linkage at throttle (when applicable)

(Section 33)

mm Road test and check operation of ABS (Section 34)
mm Check automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot)

(Section 17)

mm Check engine for satisfactory hot starting (Section 37)
mm Check that automatic choke is fully off with engine hot (not fuel-

injection models) (Section 36)

mm Check power steering fluid level (when applicable) (Section 35)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or
2 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 38)
mm Clean and inspect distributor cap, rotor arm, HT leads and coil

tower (Section 39)

mm Adjust automatic transmission brake bands (Section 40)
mm Renew fuel filter (fuel-injection models only) (Section 41)
mm Renew crankcase ventilation vent valve (carburettor models)

(Section 42)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if necessary

(Section 43)

mm Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 44)
mm Renew camshaft drivebelt on SOHC models - recommended as

a precautionary measure (Section 45)

Every 2 years - regardless of mileage

mm Renew coolant (Section 46)

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant type/specification

1 Engine Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range

SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50 to API SG/CD
or better

2 Cooling system Soft water/antifreeze to Ford spec.

SSM 97B9103-A or SDM-M97B49-A

3 Manual transmission:

N9 Semi-synthetic gear oil to Ford

spec. ESD M2C175-A (80 EP)

MT75 Gear oil to Ford spec. ESD-

M2C186-A

4 Automatic transmission ATF to Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A

(TQ Dexron II)

5 Final drive Gear oil SAE 90EP to API GL5
6 Brake hydraulic system Hydraulic fluid to Ford spec.

SAM- 6C9103-A

7 Power steering ATF to Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A

(TQ Dexron II)

Maintenance Schedule

1•3

1

Maintenance Schedule

Engine oil

SOHC:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.75 litres (6.6 pints)

DOHC:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.5 litres (7.9 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.0 litres (7.0 pints)

V6:

With filte r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.25 litres (7.5 pints)

Cooling system

OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.0 litres (14.1 pints)

V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.5 litres (15.0 pints)

Fuel tank

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 litres (15.4 gallons)

Manual gearbox

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.25 litres (2.2 pints)

Automatic transmission

All models (from dry) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.5 litres (15.0 pints)

Final drive

7 inch crownwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.9 litres (1.6 pints)

7.5 inch crownwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.3 litres (2.3 pints)

Power steering

OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.65 litres (1.1 pints)

V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.75 litres (1.3 pints)

Capacities

1 Battery
2 Engine oil dipstick
3 Inlet manifold
4 Throttle/kickdown cable

bracket
5 Suspension turrets
6 Ignition coil
7 Air cleaner cover
8 Fuel pressure regulator
9 Vane airflow meter
10 Headlight covers
11 Tune-up label
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Oil filler cap
14 Spark plug leads
15 VIN plate
16 Radiator hoses
17 Horn
18 Windscreen washer

pump

19 Windscreen washer

reservoir
20 Alternator
21 Coolant expansion tank

cap
22 Engine mounting
23 Heater hose
24 Automatic transmission

fluid dipstick
25 Brake fluid reservoir

cap
26 Brake hydraulic unit

accumulator
27 Brake hydraulic unit

valve block
28 Main fuse/relay box
29 Wiper motor (behind

cover)
30 Heater blower cover

1 Windscreen wiper motor
2 Battery
3 Suspension strut top

mounting
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Ignition distributor
6 Coolant expansion tank
7 Washer fluid reservoir
8 Automatic transmission

fluid dipstick
9 Oil filler cap
10 Engine oil level dipstick
11 Air cleaner element

housing
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Ignition module
14 Manifold Absolute

Pressure (MAP) sensor

15 Throttle position sensor
16 Power steering fluid

reservoir
17 Anti-theft alarm horn
18 Speed control system

diaphragm
19 Speed control system

vacuum pump
20 Vehicle identification

(VIN) plate
21 Fuel pressure regulator
22 Air charge temperature

sensor
23 Manifold absolute

pressure (MAP) sensor

vapour trap
24 Fuse/relay box

Under-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with

fuel-injection

Under-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre DOHC Granada with

fuel-injection

1•4

Maintenance Schedule

1 Battery
2 Suspension turrets
3 Air cleaner cover
4 Vane airflow meters
5 Headlight covers
6 Tune-up label
7 Auxiliary driving light covers
8 Crankcase ventilation hoses
9 Throttle linkage cover
10 Throttle cable and kickdown switch
11 Plenum chamber
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Radiator top hose
14 Oil filler cap
15 Power steering fluid reservoir
16 Horn
17 Washer fluid level switch
18 Windscreen washer pump
19 Windscreen washer reservoir
20 Coolant level switch
21 Coolant expansion tank cap
22 Engine mounting
23 Heater hose
24 Brake hydraulic unit valve block
25 Brake fluid reservoir cap
26 Brake hydraulic unit accumulator
27 Main fuse/relay box
28 Wiper motor (behind cover)
29 Heater blower cover
30 Fuel pressure regulator
31 Distributor screening lid
32 Engine oil dipstick
33 Automatic transmission fluid dipstick

Under-bonnet view of a 2.8 litre V6 Granada

1 Brake and fuel pipes
2 Transmission sump
3 Transmission crossmember
4 Speedometer sender unit
5 Propeller shaft coupling
6 Exhaust flanged joint
7 Exhaust mounting
8 Exhaust pipe
9 Jacking points
10 Anti-roll bar clamps
11 Anti-roll bar
12 Brake calipers
13 Brake flexible hoses
14 Suspension lower arms
15 Front crossmember
16 Track rods
17 Track rod ends
18 Steering rack bellows
19 Radiator bottom hose
20 Alternator
21 Transmission fluid cooler hoses
22 Crankshaft pulley
23 Fan
24 Oil filter
25 Sump drain plug
26 Starter motor
27 Starter motor solenoid

Front underbody view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with automatic transmission

1•5

1

Maintenance Schedule

1 Track rod end
2 Track rod
3 Steering gear gaiter
4 Water pump
5 Starter motor
6 Front suspension lower arm
7 Front suspension anti-roll bar
8 Exhaust downpipe
9 Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor -

models with catalytic converter
10 Front suspension crossmember
11 Sump drain plug
12 Power steering pump
13 Washer fluid reservoir
14 Radiator cooling fans
15 Catalytic converter (where fitted)
16 Catalytic converter heatshield (where

fitted)
17 Transmission crossmember
18 Fuel feed and return pipes
19 Rear brake pipes
20 Steering gear feed and return hoses

Front underbody view of a 2.0 litre DOHC Granada with automatic transmission

1 Rear silencer
2 Fuel pump (fuel-injection)
3 Fuel filter (fuel-injection)
4 Fuel tank
5 Fuel tank straps
6 Anti-roll bar clamps
7 Final drive rear mounting
8 Anti-roll bar
9 Driveshafts
10 Driveshaft joints
11 Final drive unit
12 Handbrake cables
13 Suspension lower arms
14 Crossmember
15 Exhaust hanger
16 Guide plates
17 Propeller shaft
18 Propeller shaft universal joint
19 Brake and fuel pipes
20 Shock absorber lower mountings
21 Jacking points
22 Intermediate silencer
23 Exhaust pipe

Rear underbody view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with fuel-injection

1•6

Maintenance Procedures

This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance
schedule, followed by Sections dealing
specifically with each task in the schedule.
Visual checks, adjustments, component
renewal and other helpful items are included.
Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the
engine compartment and the underside of the
vehicle for the locations of the various
components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can ­and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected
at the same time as the suspension and
steering components.

The first step in this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried out,
then make a list and gather together all the
parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist, or a dealer service department.

If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be kept
in relatively good running condition, and the
need for additional work will be minimised.

It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely if
a used vehicle, which has not received regular
and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test will provide valuable information regarding
the overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide on the extent of the work to be
carried out. If, for example, a compression test
indicates serious internal engine wear,
conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the

performance of the engine, and may prove a
waste of time and money, unless extensive
overhaul work is carried out first.

The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery

(Section 6)

b) Check all the engine-related fluids

(Section 3).

c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 21).
d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 20).
e) Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and

HT leads - as applicable (Chapter 5).
f) Check the condition of the air cleaner filter

element, and renew if necessary (Section 38).
g) Renew the fuel filter (Section 41).
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 10).
i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable (Chapter 4).

If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5).
b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5).
c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4).
d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable (Chapter 5).

f) Renew the ignition HT leads - as

applicable (Chapter 5).

2 Intensive maintenance

1 Introduction

Engine oil

1 Check the oil level as follows.
2 With the vehicle parked on level ground,

and with the engine having been stopped for a
few minutes, open and prop the bonnet.
Withdraw the dipstick, wipe it on a clean rag

and re-insert it fully. Withdraw it again and
read the oil level relative to the marks on the
end of the stick (see illustration).
3 The oil level should be in between the MAX
and MIN marks on the dipstick. If it is at or
below the MIN mark, top-up (via the oil filler
cap) without delay. The quantity of oil required
to raise the lever from MIN to MAX on the
dipstick is approximately 1 litre. Do not overfill

(see illustration).
4 The rate of oil consumption depends on

leaks and on the quantity of oil burnt. External
leakage should be obvious. Oil which is burnt
may enter the combustion chambers through
the valve guides or past the piston rings;
excessive blow-by past the rings can also
force oil out via the crankcase ventilation
system. Driving conditions also affect oil
consumption.
5 Always use the correct grade and type of oil
as shown in “Lubricants and fluids”.

Coolant

6 Check the coolant level as follows.
7 Open and prop the bonnet. Observe the

level of coolant through the translucent walls
of the expansion tank (on the right-hand side
of the engine bay). The level should be up to
the MAX mark when the engine is cold, and
may be somewhat above the mark when hot.
8 If topping-up is necessary, wait for the
system to cool down if it is hot. Place a thick
rag over the expansion tank cap and slacken it

3 Fluid level checks

3.2 Dipstick markings 3.3 Topping up the engine oil

Warning: DO NOT remove the
expansion tank pressure cap
when the engine is hot, as there
is a great risk of scalding.

Weekly checks

to release any pressure. When pressure has
been released, carry on unscrewing the cap
and remove it.
9 Top-up to the MAX mark with the specified
coolant (see illustration). In an emergency
plain water is better than nothing, but
remember that it is diluting the proper coolant.
Do not add cold water to an overheated
engine whilst it is still hot.
10 Refit the expansion tank cap securely
when the level is correct. With a sealed type
cooling system like this, the addition of
coolant should only be necessary at very
infrequent intervals. If frequent topping-up is
required, it is likely there is a leak in the
system. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint
faces for any sign of staining or actual
wetness, and rectify as necessary. If no leaks
can be found, it is advisable to have the
pressure cap and the entire system pressure­tested by a dealer or suitably-equipped
garage, as this will often show up a small leak
not previously apparent.

Brake fluid

Be sure to use only the specified brake
hydraulic fluid, since mixing different types of
fluid can cause damage to the system. See
“Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the
beginning of this Chapter. When adding fluid,
it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for
contamination. The system should be drained
and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or
contamination are seen in the fluid.

11 Check the brake fluid level as follows.
12 With the vehicle parked on level ground

and the ignition switched off, pump the brake
pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal feels
hard.
13 Open the bonnet. Switch on the ignition:
the hydraulic unit pump will be heard running.
Wait until the pump stops, then switch off the
ignition.
14 The fluid level in the reservoir should now
be between the MAX and MIN marks. If
topping-up is necessary, unplug the electrical
connectors from the cap, then unscrew and
remove it (see illustration). Catch the
hydraulic fluid which will drip off the level
sensor with a piece of rag.

15 Top-up with fresh brake fluid of the
specified type (see illustration). Do not
overfill. Refit and reconnect the reservoir cap
immediately.

16 The fluid level in the reservoir will drop
slightly as the brake pads wear down during
normal operation. If the reservoir requires
repeated replenishment to maintain the proper
level, this is an indication of a hydraulic leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.

Washer fluid

17 When topping-up the windscreen or rear
screen washer fluid reservoir, a screenwash
additive should be added in the quantities
recommended on the bottle.

1 On later models tyres may have tread wear
safety bands, which will appear when the
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
Otherwise, tread wear can be monitored with a
simple, inexpensive device known as a tread
depth indicator gauge (see illustration).
2 Wheels and tyres should give no real
problems in use, provided that a close eye is
kept on them with regard to excessive wear or
damage. To this end, the following points
should be noted.
3 Ensure that the tyre pressures are checked
regularly and maintained correctly (see
illustration). Checking should be carried out
with the tyres cold, not immediately after the
vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are
checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-high
reading will be obtained, owing to heat
expansion. Under no circumstances should
an attempt be made to reduce the pressures
to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or
effective under-inflation will result.

4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such

as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on
one side than the other, are indications of front
wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If
any of these conditions are noted, they should
be rectified as soon as possible.
5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,
and the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause excessive wear, not to
mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due
to heat build-up.

4 Tyre checks

1•7

1

Weekly checks

3.14 Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap 3.15 Topping up the brake fluid reservoir

4.1 Checking the tyre tread depth 4.3 Checking tyre pressure

3.9 Topping up the cooling system

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use extreme

caution when handling and
pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it absorbs
moisture from the air. Excess moisture can
cause a dangerous loss of braking
effectiveness.

If any brake fluid gets onto
paintwork, wash it off
immediately with clean water.

6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced adhesion, harsher ride, and the
danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre
casing.
7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones
embedded in the tread before they penetrate the
tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does
reveal that the tyre has been punctured, refit the
nail so that its point of penetration is marked.
Then immediately change the wheel, and have
the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do not drive on
a tyre in such a condition. If in any doubt as to
the possible consequences of any damage
found, consult your local tyre dealer for advice.
8 Periodically remove the wheels, and clean
any dirt or mud from the inside and outside
surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of
rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy
wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst
parking, and similarly steel wheels may
become dented or buckled. Renewal of the
wheel is very often the only course of remedial
action possible.
9 The balance of each wheel and tyre
assembly should be maintained to avoid
excessive wear, not only to the tyres but also
to the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell,
although in many cases it is particularly
noticeable through the steering wheel.
Conversely, it should be noted that wear or

damage in suspension or steering
components may cause excessive tyre wear.
Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged
wheels, and wheel bearing wear also fall into
this category. Balancing will not usually cure
vibration caused by such wear.
10 Wheel balancing may be carried out with
the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If
balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the
wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some
way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so
that it may be refitted in its original position.
11 General tyre wear is influenced to a large
degree by driving style - harsh braking and
acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce
more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres
may result in more even wear. However, if this
is completely effective, the added expense is
incurred of replacing all four tyres at once,
which may prove financially-restrictive for
many owners.
12 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result
of wheel misalignment. The front wheels
should always be correctly aligned according
to the settings specified by the vehicle
manufacturer.
13 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects
of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this
information is contained in the Motor Vehicle
Construction and Use Regulations. It is
suggested that a copy of these regulations is
obtained from your local police, if in doubt as
to current legal requirements with regard to
tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth,
etc.

Check the operation of all the electrical
equipment, ie. lights, direction indicators,
horn, washers, etc. Refer to the appropriate
Sections of Chapter 13 for details if any of the
circuits are found to be inoperative.

Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.
Rectify any faults found.

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual.

1 The battery fitted as original equipment is
“maintenance-free”, and requires no
maintenance apart from having the case kept
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
2 If a “traditional” type battery is fitted as a
replacement, remove the old cell covers and
check that the plate separators in each cell are
covered by approximately 6 mm (0.25 in) of
electrolyte. If the battery case is translucent,
the cell covers need not be removed to check
the level. Top-up if necessary with distilled or
de-ionized water; do not overfill, and mop up
any spillage at once (see illustration).

6 Battery electrolyte level check

5 Electrical system check

1•8

Weekly checks

Tyre Tread Wear Patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation
(wear on both sides)

Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber
(wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension
parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate

your car’s tyres to the higher
pressures specified for maximum
load or sustained high speed,
don’t forget to reduce the
pressures to normal afterwards.

Toe Wear

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment

Note: The feathered edge of
the tread which characterises
toe wear is best checked by
feel.

Uneven Wear

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension
parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension
parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Out-of-round brake disc/drum

Machine or renew

3 Persistent need for topping-up the battery
electrolyte suggests either that the alternator
output is excessive. or that the battery is
approaching the end of its life.
4 Further information on the battery, charging
and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5,
and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.

1 Clean the wiper blades and the windscreen,
using a solution of concentrated washer fluid
or methylated spirit. Similarly clean the
headlight lens and wiper blades.
2 Check the condition of the wiper blades; if
they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. At the same time,
check the headlight wiper blades (where fitted)
for condition, and renew if necessary.

3 To remove a blade, hinge the arm and blade
away from the screen. Press the tab on the
spring clip in the middle of the blade and
unhook the blade from the arm.

4 Refit the blade by sliding it onto the hook on
the arm (see illustration).
5 Check that the windscreen washer jets
operate correctly, and direct the washer fluid
towards the upper area of the wiper blade
stroke. If necessary, use a pin to reposition the
washer jets.

7 Wiper blade check

1 Before starting this procedure, gather

together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,
as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge
will be removed with it. Take care, however,
not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts
of the engine when working under the vehicle.
To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to

protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when
carrying out this work.
2 Access to the underside of the vehicle will be
greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift,
driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported
on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Whichever
method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain
plug is at the lowest point.
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.
Position the draining container under the drain
plug, then remove the plug completely. If
possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the
sump while unscrewing it by hand the last
couple of turns. As the plug releases from the
threads, move it away sharply so the stream of
oil issuing from the sump runs into the
container, not up your sleeve. Recover the
sealing washer from the drain plug.
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition, and renew it if
necessary. Clean the area around the drain
plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the
plug to the specified torque.
6 Move the container into position under the
oil filter. On SOHC engines, the filter is located
on the left-hand side of the cylinder block in
front of the engine bearer. On DOHC and V6
engines, the filter is located on the right-hand
side of the cylinder block (see illustration).
7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,
slacken the filter, then unscrew it by hand the
rest of the way. Empty the oil from the old filter
into the container, and discard the filter.

8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge from the filter sealing area on the
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter
firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.
10 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the car, then lower the car to the ground
(if applicable).
11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the
dipstick from the top of the filler tube. Fill the
engine, using the correct grade and type of oil
(see “Lubricants and fluids”). An oil can spout
or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in
half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait
a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time
until the level is up to the lower mark on the
dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper
mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and
refit the filler cap.
12 Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
pressure warning light goes out when the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
filter, before the pressure builds up.
13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures” in the
reference Sections of this manual.

8 Engine oil and filter renewal

1•9

1

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

8.6 Fitting an oil filter

6.2 Topping up the battery 7.4 Fitting a windscreen wiper blade

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

For maximum clarity of vision,
windscreen wiper blades
should be renewed annually,
as a matter of course.

Frequent oil and filter changes
are the most important
preventative maintenance

procedures which can be
undertaken by the DIY owner. As
engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and
contaminated, which leads to
premature engine wear.

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front and rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking”).
2 For a quick check, the front brake disc pads
can be inspected without removing the front
wheels, using a mirror and a torch through the
aperture in the rear face of the caliper. If any
one pad is worn down to the minimum
specified, all four pads (on both front wheels)
must be renewed.
3 It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear pads. The pads can
be viewed through the top of the caliper after
removing the spring clip. If any one pad is
worn down to the minimum specified, all four
pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.
4 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
Chapter 10 for further information.
5 At the same interval, check the function of
the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the
wheels, release the handbrake and switch on
the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
warning light: it should come on as the level
sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the
cap.
6 On completion, refit the wheels and lower
the car to the ground.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
over a period of time some very slight seepage
from these areas is to be expected but what
you are really looking for is any indication of a
serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew
the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to
the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual.
2 Similarly, check the transmission for oil
leaks, and investigate and rectify and
problems found.
3 Check the security and condition of all the
engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all
cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in
good condition. Clips which are broken or
missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
4 Carefully check the condition of all coolant,
fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose which
is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will
show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay
close attention to the hose clips that secure
the hoses to the system components. Hose

clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting
in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it
may be a good idea to replace them with
screw-type clips.
5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank
and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other
damage. The connection between the filler neck
and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a
rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due
to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.
6 Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal
pipes. If any damage or deterioration is
discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the
necessary repair work has been carried out.
Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.
7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
8 From within the engine compartment, check
the security of all fuel hose attachments and
pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and
vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
9 Where applicable, check the condition of
the oil cooler hoses and pipes.
10 Check the condition of all exposed wiring
harnesses.
11 Also check the engine and transmission
components for signs of fluid leaks.

Periodically check the belts for fraying or

other damage. If evident, renew the belt.

If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a

damp cloth using a little detergent only.

Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and
if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure
that the original sequence of fitting of washers,
bushes and anchor plates is retained.

With the vehicle raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking”),
check the exhaust system for signs of leaks,
corrosion or damage and check the rubber
mountings for condition and security. Where
damage or corrosion are evident, renew the
system complete or in sections, as applicable,
using the information given in Chapter 4.

With the wheels on the ground, slacken
each wheel nut by a quarter turn, then
retighten it immediately to the specified
torque.

Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any
sludge build-up using paraffin.

Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.

An accurate tachometer (rev. counter) will
be needed to adjust the idle speed. The
engine must be at operating temperature, the
air cleaner element must be clean and the
vacuum hoses fitted, and the engine valve
clearances must be correct. The ignition
system must also be in good condition.

Connect the tachometer to the engine as
instructed by the manufacturers. Start the
engine and allow it to idle. Read the speed
from the tachometer and compare it with the
value in the Specifications of Chapter 4
(Pierburg 2V carburettor).

If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle
speed adjustment screw. Turn the screw
clockwise to increase the speed, and anti­clockwise to decrease the speed (see

illustration).

1.8 litre engine

1 An exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) or other
proprietary device will be needed to adjust the
idle mixture.
2 The engine must be at operating
temperature, the air cleaner element must be
clean and the vacuum hoses fitted, and the

16 Idle mixture check -

carburettor models only

15 Idle speed check - 1.8 litre

SOHC

14 Oil filler cap check

13 Roadwheel security check

12 Exhaust system check

11 Seat belt check

10 Fluid leak check

9 Front and rear brake pad

check

1•10

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

15.3 Idle adjustment screws - Pierburg 2V
carburettor

A Idle speed B Idle mixture

engine valve clearances must be correct. The
ignition system must also be in good
condition.
3 Mixture adjustment is not usual on a routine
basis. If the CO level is incorrect, proceed as
follows.
4 Connect the exhaust gas analyser as
instructed by the manufacturers.
5 Raise the engine speed to 3000 rpm
approximately and hold it at this speed for
30 seconds, then allow it to idle. Repeat this
procedure every 60 seconds until adjustment
is complete.

6 Read the CO level when it has stabilised
after the 3000 rpm burst. The desired level is
given in the Specifications of Chapter 4
(Pierburg 2V carburettor).
7 If the idle mixture needs adjustment, turn
the mixture adjusting screw. The screw may
be covered by a tamperproof plug.
8 Recheck the idle speed after adjusting the
mixture.
9 Stop the engine and disconnect the test
gear.

10 Fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture
adjusting screw if required.

2.0 litre SOHC engine

11 If mixture adjustment is required, proceed
as described for the 1.8 litre engine above.
12 See illustration for the location of the
mixture adjusting screw on the Weber 2V
carburettor fitted to this engine

DOHC engine

13 Proceed as described for the 1.8 litre
engine, noting the following points (see

illustration).
14 Refer to the Specification for the Weber 2V

(TLD) carburettor in Chapter 4.
15 The air cleaner must be removed for
access to the mixture adjustment screw.
16 Prise the tamperproof seal from the
mixture screw.
17 Loosely refit the air cleaner, ensuring that
the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover
breather hose are securely connected and free
from restrictions (there is no need to secure
the air cleaner in position).
18 On completion, fit a new tamperproof seal
to the mixture screw (the service replacement
plug is coloured blue) and refit the air cleaner
assembly.

1 Fluid level should be checked with the
transmission at operating temperature (after a
run) and with the vehicle parked on level
ground.
2 Open and prop the bonnet. With the engine
idling and the handbrake and footbrake
applied, move the gear selector through all
positions three times, finishing up in position
P.
3 Wait one minute. With the engine still idling,
withdraw the transmission dipstick (see
illustration). Wipe the dipstick with a clean
lint-free rag, re-insert it fully and withdraw it

again. Read the fluid level at the end of the
dipstick: it should be between the two
notches.
4 If topping-up is necessary, do so via the
dipstick tube, using clean transmission fluid of
the specified type (see illustration). Do not
overfill.
5 Stop the engine, refit the dipstick and close
the bonnet.
6 Note that if the fluid level was below the
minimum mark when checked or is in constant
need of topping-up, check around the
transmission for any signs of excessive fluid
leaks.If present, leaks must be rectified
without delay.
7 If the colour of the fluid is dark brown or
black this denotes the sign of a worn brake

band or transmission clutches, in which case
have your Ford dealer check the transmission
at the earliest opportunity.

1 Place the vehicle over a pit, or raise and
support it at front and rear. The vehicle must
be level for an accurate check.
2 If the transmission is hot after a run, allow it
to cool for a few minutes. This is necessary
because the oil can foam when hot and give a
false level reading.
3 Wipe clean around the filler/level plug,
which is located on the left-hand side of the
gearbox. Unscrew the plug with a square drive
key and remove it
4 Using a piece of bent wire as a dipstick,
check that the oil level is up to the bottom of
the filler/level plug hole, or no more than 5 mm
(0.2 in) below it.
5 Top-up if necessary using clean oil of the
specified type. Do not overfill; allow excess oil
to drip out of the plug hole if necessary. Refit
and tighten the filler/level plug.
6 Frequent need for topping-up can only be
due to leaks, which should be rectified. The
rear extension oil seal can be renewed in situ
after removing the propeller shaft (N type
only).
7 No periodic oil changing is specified, and no
drain plug is fitted.

18 Manual gearbox oil level

check

17 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1•11

1

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

16.13 Idle adjustment screws- Weber 2V
TLD carburettor

A Idle mixture B Idle speed

16.12 Idle mixture adjustment screw
(arrowed) - Weber 2V carburettor

17.4 Topping up the transmission fluid17.3 The automatic transmission dipstick

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the
hinges and locks with a light machine oil.
2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release
mechanism and exposed sections of inner
cable with a smear of grease.
3 Check the security and operation of all
hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them
where required. Where applicable, check the
operation of the central locking system.
4 Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or is no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.

SOHC and V6 engines

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine.
2 Make sure that the ignition is switched off
before inspecting the HT leads to see if they
carry their cylinder numbers - if not, number
each lead using sticky tape or paint.
3 Pull the HT lead connectors off the plugs.
Pull on the connectors, not on the leads.
4 Blow away any dirt from around the spark
plug recesses in the cylinder head(s).
5 Unscrew and remove the plugs, using a
proprietary plug spanner or a spark plug
socket, extension and ratchet.
6 The condition of the plugs will tell much
about the overall condition of the engine. If the
insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and
white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a
weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly,
a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).
7 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with
hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
8 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct, and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
9 Apply a smear of anti-seize compound to
the threads of the new plugs. Make sure that
the insulators are clean and that the screwed
HT lead adapters are tight. Pay particular
attention to the plug seating surfaces on OHC
engines, since these plugs have no sealing
washers (“taper seat” type) and any dirt will
cause a bad seal.
10 Screw each plug into its hole by hand. If a
plug is reluctant to go in, do not force it with a
spanner, but unscrew it and try again. If the
plug is cross-threaded, it is the cylinder head
which will be damaged.

11 Final tightening of the spark plugs should
ideally be carried out using a torque wrench.
The tightening torques are given in the
Specifications. If a torque wrench is not
available, tighten the plugs beyond the point
where they contact the head as follows:

OHC (taper seat plugs) - One-sixteenth of a

turn maximum

V6 (plugs with washers) - One-quarter of a

turn maximum

12 If the taper seat type of plug is
overtightened, the sealing faces will bite
together and removal will be very difficult.
13 Refit the HT leads to the plugs, paying
attention to the cylinder numbers. Push each
connector firmly onto its plug.
14 Run the engine to verify that the HT leads
have been refitted correctly.

DOHC engines

15 Proceed as described above whilst noting
the following points.

a) Remove the air cleaner as described in

Chapter 4.

b) The minimal length of number 3 HT lead

makes removal from the spark plug
difficult. It is advisable to remove this lead
from the distributor prior to removing it
from the spark plug.

c) The spark plugs are deeply recessed in

the cylinder head and it will be necessary
to use a spark plug socket with a long
extension bar. If possible, use a spark plug
socket with a rubber grip inside as this will
hold onto the spark plug once loosened
and will enable the spark plugs to be
withdrawn and refitted more easily.

SOHC and all V6 engines

1 All of these engines have one or two
drivebelts which drive the water pump and
alternator from the crankshaft pulley. When
power steering is fitted, the same belts drive
the steering pump. The air conditioning
compressor, when fitted, is driven
independently.
2 Periodically inspect the drivebelt(s) for
fraying, cracks, glazing or other damage. Turn
the engine so that the full length of the belt(s)
can be viewed. Renew belts which are in poor
condition. When twin drivebelts are fitted, both
must be renewed together, even if only one is
damaged.
3 Check the tension of the drivebelt(s) by
pressing firmly with the fingers in the middle of
the longest belt run (engine stopped). Tension
is correct when the belt can be deflected by
10 mm (0.4 in) under firm finger pressure (see
illustration).
4 Renewal and adjustment procedures for
models with power steering are given in
Chapter 11. For other models proceed as
follows.

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6 On models with air conditioning, remove the

compressor drivebelt.
7 Slacken the alternator pivot and adjusting
bolts. Swing the alternator towards the engine
and slip the belt(s) off the pulleys.
8 Fit the new belt(s) over the pulleys. Move
the alternator away from the engine until the
belt tension is correct, then tighten the
alternator adjusting strap and pivot bolts. If it
is necessary to lever against the alternator to
achieve the correct tension, only do so using a
wooden or plastic lever (see illustration).
9 Refit and tension the air conditioning
compressor drivebelt, when applicable.
10 Reconnect the battery. If a new drivebelt
has been fitted, run the engine for a few
minutes, then stop it and recheck the tension.
11 Check the tension of new belts again after
a few hundred miles.

21 Auxiliary drivebelt check

20 Spark plug renewal

19 Hinge and lock check and

lubrication

1•12

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

21.3 Checking drivebelt tension

It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without cross­threading them. To avoid this
possibility, fit a short length of 5/16­inch internal diameter rubber hose over
the end of the spark plug. The flexible
hose acts as a universal joint to help
align the plug with the plug hole.
Should the plug begin to cross-thread,
the hose will slip on the spark plug,
preventing thread damage to the
aluminium cylinder head. Remove the
rubber hose, and tighten the plug to the
specified torque using the spark plug
socket and a torque wrench. Fit the
remaining spark plugs in the same
manner.

DOHC engines

12 On this engine, the coolant/alternator
drivebelt also drives the power steering pump
and (where applicable) the air conditioning
compressor. The drivebelt tension is set by an
automatic tensioner assembly.
13 The condition of the drivebelt should be
checked as described above.
14 An idea of the amount of wear which has
taken place on the belt can be gained from the
position of indicator mark (A) on the mounting
bracket in relation to the block (B) on the
tensioner arm (see illustration). When the belt
is new the mark should be aligned with the top
of the tensioner block. As the belt wears, the
tensioner arm moves and the block on the arm
will move slowly up in relation to the mark on
the bracket. When the mark aligns with the
bottom of the tensioner arm block the belt can
be regarded as worn and should be replaced

(see illustration).
15 To renew the belt, turn the automatic

tensioner arm clockwise, using a 17 mm
socket and a wrench on the boss in the centre
of the pulley, and slide the belt from the
pulleys, then slowly release the tensioner.
16 To fit a new belt, rotate the tensioner
clockwise as during removal, then slide the
belt over the pulleys. With the belt correctly
located, slowly release the tensioner; the
tensioner will automatically set the correct
drivebelt tension.

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual.

1 The battery fitted as original equipment is
“maintenance-free”, and requires no
maintenance apart from having the case kept
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
2 To clean the battery terminals disconnect
them, after having first removed the cover
(later models) - negative earth first. Use a wire
brush or abrasive paper to clean the terminals.
Bad corrosion should be treated with a
solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied with
an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution get
inside the battery.

3 Coat the battery terminals with petroleum
jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound
before reconnecting them. Reconnect and
tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by
the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.
4 Keep the top of the battery clean and dry.
Periodically inspect the battery tray for
corrosion, and make good as necessary.
5 Further information on the battery, charging
and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5,
and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.

SOHC engines

1 Valve clearances are checked with the
engine cold.

2 On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.
3 On fuel-injection models, remove the

bracing strap which connects the inlet
manifold to the right-hand side of the engine.
4 On all models, identify the HT leads and
disconnect them from the spark plugs. Unclip
the leads from the rocker cover.
5 Although not essential, it will make the
engine easier to turn if the spark plugs are
removed.
6 Remove the ten bolts which secure the
rocker cover, noting the location of the
different shapes of reinforcing plates. Remove
the cover and gasket.

7 One of the cam lobes will be seen to be
pointing upwards. Measure the clearance
between the base of this cam and the cam
follower, finding the thickness of feeler blade
which gives a firm sliding fit (see illustration).
8 The desired valve clearances are given in
the Specifications. Note that the clearances
for inlet and exhaust valves are different.
Numbering from the front (sprocket) end of the
camshaft, the exhaust valves are 1, 3, 5 and 7,
and the inlet valves 2, 4, 6 and 8.
9 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the ball­pin locknut and screw the ball-pin up or down
until the clearance is correct. Hold the ball-pin
stationary and tighten the locknut (see
illustration). Recheck the clearance after
tightening the locknut in case the ball-pin has
moved.
10 Turn the engine to bring another cam lobe
to the vertical position and repeat the above
procedure. Carry on until all eight valves have
been checked.
11 Access to some of the ball-pins is made
difficult by the carburettor or fuel-injection inlet
manifold. To avoid having to remove the
offending components, double cranked
spanners or cutaway socket spanners can be
used (see illustration).
12 When adjustment is complete, refit the
rocker cover using a new gasket. Make sure
that the dovetail sections of the gasket fit
together correctly.
13 Fit the rocker cover bolts and reinforcing
plates. Tighten the bolts as described in
Chapter 2A Section 44, paragraph 11.

23 Engine valve clearance check

22 Battery terminal check

1•13

1

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

21.14a Water pump/alternator drivebelt

tensioner indicator position - DOHC engine

A Indicator mark B Block

21.14b Water pump/alternator drivebelt

tensioner wear indicator location (arrowed)

- DOHC engine

21.8 Tightening the alternator strap bolt

23.7 Measuring a valve clearance - SOHC
engine

23.9 Adjusting a valve clearance - SOHC
engine

14 Refit the other disturbed components.
15 Run the engine and check that there are

no oil leaks from the rocker cover.

2.8 litre engine

16 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
preliminary steps:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead
b) Remove the throttle mechanism cover, air

cleaner cover, airflow meters and inlet
trunking

c) Remove the HT leads from the spark plugs

and unclip them from the rocker cover

d) Unbolt and remove the rocker covers

17 Although not essential, it will be easier to
turn the engine if the spark plugs are removed.
18 Valve clearances must be adjusted with
the engine cold (less than 40°C/104°F).
19 Turn the engine, using a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, until the crankshaft
pulley timing mark is aligned with the TDC
(zero) pointer on the timing cover and the
valves of No 5 cylinder are overlapping, ie the
exhaust valve is closing and the inlet valve is
opening. (No 5 cylinder is the middle one on
the left-hand bank - left being the vehicle’s
left, not necessarily to operator’s.) (see

illustration).
20 When the valves of No 5 cylinder are in

this position, check the valve clearances of
No1 cylinder by inserting a feeler blade of the
specified thickness between the rocker arm
and the valve stem. Adjust the clearance, if
necessary, by turning the rocker arm adjusting

screw until the specified clearance is obtained
(see illustration). Inlet and exhaust valve are
different.
21 If the engine is now rotated one-third of a
turn clockwise at the crankshaft, the valves of
No 3 cylinder will be overlapping and the
valves of No4 cylinder can be checked and
adjusted.
22 Proceed to adjust the clearances
according to the firing order as follows. The
cylinders are numbered (see illustration) and
the valves are listed in their correct order,
working from the front of the engine:

Valves overlapping Valves to adjust

No 5 cylinder No 1 cylinder (in, ex)
No 3 cylinder No 4 cylinder (in, ex)
No 6 cylinder No 2 cylinder (in, ex)
No 1 cylinder No 5 cylinder (ex, in)
No 4 cylinder No 3 cylinder (ex, in)
No 2 cylinder No 6 cylinder (ex, in)

23 Refit the rocker covers, using new gaskets
if necessary. Tighten the rocker cover bolts to
the specified torque.
24 If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the other
displaced components.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

25 The operation for these engines is
essentially as described for the 2.8 litre
engine, noting that the valve arrangement is
changed (see illustrations).

Using a spanner of the appropriate size,
check each manifold securing nut in turn
whilst referring to the appropriate Sections in
Chapter 2C for tightening sequences and
torque loading figures.

Remove the radiator grille and clean any
leaves, insects etc. from the condenser coil
and fins. Be very careful not to damage the
condenser fins: use a soft brush, or a
compressed air jet, along (not across) the fins

(see illustration).

25 Air conditioner condenser

check

24 Engine inlet manifold security

check - V6 only

1•14

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

23.19 Inlet and exhaust valve location -

2.8 litre V6 engine

23.20 Adjusting a valve clearance ­V6 engine

23.11 Cutaway socket spanner

23.25a Valve arrangement for RH cylinder
head - 2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

Upper arrow points to front of engine

23.25b Valve arrangement for LH cylinder
head - 2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

Upper arrow points to front of engine

23.22 Cylinder numbering and HT lead
connections - V6 engine

White arrow points to front of engine

25.1 Cleaning the air conditioner
condenser fins

1 Remove the radiator grille being careful not
to damage the condenser fins.
2 Check the refrigerant charge as follows. The
engine should be cold and the ambient
temperature should be between 18° and 25°C
(64° and 77°F).
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Observe
the refrigerant sight glass (see illustration)
and have an assistant switch on the air
conditioning to fan speed III. A few bubbles
should be seen in the sight glass as the
system starts up, but all bubbles should
disappear within 10 seconds. Persistent
bubbles, or no bubbles at all, mean that the
refrigerant charge is low. Switch off the
system immediately if the charge is low and do
not use it again until it has been recharged.
4 Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and
unions for security and good condition. Refit
the radiator grille.
5 The air conditioning system will lose a
proportion of its charge through normal
seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year ­so it is as well to regard periodic recharging as
a maintenance operation.

1 Check the final drive oil level as follows.
2 Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at

front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see
“Jacking”). The vehicle must be level.
3 Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level
plug (see illustration). Unscrew the plug with
a hexagon key. Using a piece of bent wire as
a dipstick, check that the oil is no more than
10 mm (0.4 in) below the plug hole.
4 If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill.
Frequent need for topping-up can only be due
to leaks, which should be rectified.
5 When the level is correct, refit the filler/level
plug and tighten it.
6 There is no requirement for periodic oil
changing, and no drain plug is provided.

Lubricate the transmission selector and
kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol
lubricant.

1 Examine all steering and suspension
components for wear and damage. Pay
particular attention to dust covers and gaiters,
which if renewed promptly when damaged can
save further damage to the component
protected.
2 At the same intervals, check the front
suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by
levering up the arms (see illustration).
Balljoint free movement must not exceed

0.5 mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints
can be checked in a similar manner, or by
observing them whilst an assistant rocks the
steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm
balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must
be renewed.
3 Check the shock absorbers by bouncing the
vehicle up and down at each corner in turn.
When released, it should come to rest within
one complete oscillation. Continued
movement, or squeaking and groaning noises
from the shock absorber suggests that
renewal is required.

Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at

front and rear on ramps or axle stands.

Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters.
Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds
and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must be
renewed without delay to avoid damage
occurring to the joint itself

Check the tightness of the final drive
mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange
screws.

1 Except on vehicles with a wax-based
underbody protective coating, have the whole
of the underframe of the vehicle steam­cleaned, engine compartment included, so
that a thorough inspection can be carried out
to see what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary.
2 Steam-cleaning is available at many
garages, and is necessary for the removal of
the accumulation of oily grime, which
sometimes is allowed to become thick in
certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-applied;
the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
3 After cleaning, position the vehicle over a
pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle
stands.
4 Using a strong light, work around the
underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for
corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer to
Chapter 12 for details of repair.

Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
and inspect the hose and pipe unions for
leaks. Renew any defective item without delay.

On 2.0 litre engines, good electrical contact
between the carburettor stepper motor
plunger and the adjusting screw is essential to
maintain a regular idle speed.

Clean the plunger and adjusting screw
contact faces with abrasive paper followed by
switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is
available from electronic component shops.

33 Idle speed linkage clean

32 Brake pipe and hose check

31 Underbody inspection

30 Driveshaft check

29 Steering and suspension

security check

28 Automatic transmission

selector linkage lubrication

27 Final drive oil level check

26 Air conditioner refrigerant

charge check

1•15

1

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

27.3 Final drive oil filler/level plug (arrowed)

29.2 Checking a front suspension lower
arm balljoint

26.3 Refrigerant sight glass (arrowed)

Instruments and electrical
equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine,
clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine, clutch and transmission.
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
9 Where applicable, check that the clutch
action is smooth and progressive, that the
drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal
travel is not excessive. Also listen for any
noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
10 Check that all gears can be engaged
smoothly, without noise, and that the gear
lever action is not abnormally vague or
“notchy”.

Check the operation and
performance of the braking system

11 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels do
not lock prematurely when braking hard.
12 Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
13 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
14 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake
pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine
to run for at least two minutes, and then
switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed
now, it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After
about four or five applications, no further
hissing should be heard, and the pedal should
feel considerably firmer.

1 The power steering fluid dipstick is
incorporated in the reservoir filler cap. The
reservoir is mounted on the pump. Observe
scrupulous cleanliness when checking the
level or topping-up.
2 The system should be at operating
temperature and the engine switched off.
Wipe clean around the reservoir filler cap.
Unscrew the cap, withdraw the dipstick and
wipe it with a clean lint-free rag. Reinsert the
dipstick, screw the cap home, then unscrew it
again and read the level on the dipstick. It
should be up to the MAX or upper HOT mark
(depending on the dipstick markings) (see

illustration).
3 Top-up if necessary with clean fluid of the

specified type. Check for leaks if topping-up is
frequently required.
4 If the level is checked cold, use the MIN or
FULL COLD mark on the dipstick for reference.
Recheck the level at operating temperature.

On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner cover and check that the automatic
choke is opening fully when the engine is hot.

Run the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Stop the engine and
immediately restart it. If the engine fails to start
cleanly and immediately then refer to either
Chapters 4 or 5 and check fuel feed
adjustments.

37 Hot starting check

36 Automatic choke check

35 Power steering fluid level

check

34 Road test

Carburettor models

SOHC engines

1 Remove the screws from the air cleaner
cover (see illustration).
2 Release the spring clips (when fitted), then
lift off the cover (see illustration).
3 Lift out the air cleaner element (see
illustration). Wipe clean inside the air cleaner

housing, but be careful not to sweep dirt into
the carburettor throat.
4 Where it is necessary to remove the air
cleaner body for cleaning or repair, first
disconnect the cold air inlet trunking from the
spout (see illustration).

5 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet
manifold, and the hot air trunking from the
spout or exhaust manifold shroud (see

illustration).

6 Remove the remaining screw which secures

the air cleaner to the valve cover, then lift off
the air cleaner.

7 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

38 Air cleaner filter element

renewal

1•16

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

35.2 Removing the power steering fluid
dipstick

38.2 Releasing an air cleaner cover clip
(carburettor model)

38.1 Removing an air cleaner cover screw
(carburettor model)

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

DOHC engine

8 Proceed as described above whilst noting

that the camshaft cover breather hose must
be disconnected before the air cleaner can be
removed.

Fuel-injection models

SOHC and V6 engines

9 Release the four spring clips which secure
the air cleaner cover (see illustration).
10 Lift off the cover and move it aside. It is

attached to the vane airflow meter(s): be
careful not to strain the air trunking or meter
wiring. To remove the cover completely,
disconnect the meter(s) or unbolt the cover

(see illustration).
11 Remove the air cleaner element, noting

which way up it is fitted (see illustration).
Wipe clean inside the air cleaner body.
12 Where it is necessary to remove the air
cleaner body for cleaning or repair, remove the
three securing nuts which are accessible from
inside the left-hand wheel arch. Disengage the
body from the air pick-up hose and remove it.

13 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

DOHC engine

14 To renew the element, disconnect the

battery negative lead.
15 Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve at the front of the plenum
chamber.
16 Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet
hose from the air inlet tubing.
17 Unscrew the securing nut, and release the

air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel (see illustration).
18 Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
19 Lift out the air cleaner element, then wipe
the inside of the air cleaner lid and casing
clean (see illustration).
20 Fit the new element with the sealing lip
uppermost.

21 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
22 To remove and refit the air cleaner

housing, refer to paragraph 12.
23 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.

1 Before disturbing any part of the ignition
system, disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Identify and clearly mark all HT leads before
disconnecting them from the spark plugs.

All engines except DOHC

3 On V6 models, remove the screening can lid
(see illustration).
4 Remove the coil-to-distributor HT lead

(sometimes called the king lead) by
disconnecting it from the coil tower and the
distributor cap.

5 Disconnect the other HT leads from the

39 Ignition system component

check

1•17

1

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

38.4 Disconnecting the air cleaner cold air
inlet trunking (carburettor model)

38.5 Air cleaner hot air trunking and

manifold shroud (carburettor model)

38.3 Removing the air cleaner element
(carburettor model)

38.17 Air intake tube retaining nut
(fuel-injection DOHC)

38.19 Removing the air cleaner element
(fuel-injection DOHC)

38.11 Removing the air cleaner element
(fuel-injection SOHC and V6)

38.9 Air cleaner cover spring clip
(fuel-injection SOHC and V6)

38.10 Airflow meter to cover bolts

(arrowed) (fuel-injection SOHC and V6)

distributor cap, making a sketch if necessary
so that they can be reconnected to the same
terminals. Remove the leads.
6 On V6 models, remove the distributor
screening can (see illustration).
7 Release the two clips or screws which
secure the distributor cap. Remove the cap

(see illustration).
8 Note that if the distributor cap is secured by

clips, the engine must not be cranked with the
cap removed. This is because it is possible for
a spring clip to foul the rotating parts of the
distributor and cause damage.
9 Remove the rotor arm. It may simply pull off,
or it may be secured by two screws (see
illustration). The rotor arm tips may be coated
with silicone grease - if so, do not rub it off.
10 Clean the HT leads and distributor cap

with a dry cloth. Scrape any corrosion or other
deposits from the connectors and terminals.
Also clean the coil tower.
11 Renew the HT leads if they are cracked,
burnt or otherwise damaged. If a multi-meter
is available, measure the resistance of the
leads. The desired value is given in the
Specifications of Chapter 5.
12 Renew the distributor cap if it is cracked
or badly burnt inside, or if there is evidence of
“tracking” (black lines marking the path of HT
leakage). If there is a carbon brush at the
centre of the cap, make sure that it moves
freely, and is not excessively worn.
13 Clean the metal track of the rotor arm with
abrasive paper (but see paragraph 9 first).
Renew the arm if it is cracked or badly burnt.
14 Commence reassembly by fitting the rotor

arm to the distributor. It is positively located by
a notch or shaped pegs so it cannot be fitted
the wrong way round. Tighten the securing
screws, when applicable.
15 Refit the distributor cap and secure it with
the clips or screws.

16 On V6 models, refit the screening can.
17 Reconnect the HT leads to the distributor

cap, making sure that they are correctly fitted.
The No 1 connector on the cap is marked (see

illustration).
18 On V6 models, refit the screening can lid.
19 Reconnect the HT leads to the spark plugs

and coil.
20 Reconnect the battery and run the engine.

DOHC engines

21 Unclip the lower section of the distributor
shield from the upper section, then unscrew
the two securing nuts, and withdraw the upper
section of the shield from the studs on the
upper timing chain cover (see illustrations).
22 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs by pulling on the connectors, not the
leads. Similarly, disconnect the HT lead from
the coil, and release it from the clip on the
timing chain cover.
23 Using a suitable Torx key or socket,
unscrew the two distributor cap securing
screws, then lift off the cap.
24 The rotor arm is a push-fit on the end of
the rotor shaft (see illustration).
25 If desired, the rotor housing can be pulled
from the timing chain cover.
26 Inspect all components as described in

1•18

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

39.6 Removing a distributor screening can

- V6 engine

39.7 Removing a distributor cap39.3 Removing a distributor can screening

lid - V6 engine

39.21b . . . and the upper section of the
distributor shield - DOHC engine

39.24 Removing the distributor cap and
rotor arm - DOHC engine

39.21a Unclipping the lower section . . .

39.9 Removing a rotor arm 39.17 HT lead identification at distributor
cap - V6 engine

the previous sub Section.
27 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the rotor arm is pushed fully home on the
rotor shaft. Make sure that the HT leads are
fitted to their correct cylinders. Note that the
rotor arm will only fit in one position.

Note: A brake band torque wrench - Ford tool
No 17-005, or equivalent - will be required for
this job.

1 Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
2 Disconnect the downshift (kickdown) cable

from the transmission when so equipped.
3 Release the locknuts on the two brake band
adjuster screws. Back off each adjuster screw
a couple of turns (see illustration).
4 Using the torque wrench, tighten one
adjusting screw to 13 Nm (10 lbf ft). Remove
the torque wrench and back off the adjuster
screw exactly two full turns from this position,
then hold the screw and tighten the locknut.

5 Repeat the operations on the other adjuster.
6 Reconnect the downshift cable, when

applicable, then lower the vehicle.

OHC engines

1 Fitted to all fuel-injected models, the filter
can be renewed as follows. Disconnect the
battery negative lead.

2 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
3 Place a drain pan under the fuel filter. Take

adequate fire precautions.
4 Wipe clean the area around the filter inlet
and outlet unions, then disconnect them (see

illustration). Caution: Fuel under pressure
may spray out as the unions are slackened.

5 Slacken the filter clamp bolt and withdraw
the filter from the clamp. Dispose of the filter
safely, remember it is full of fuel.
6 Fit the new filter into the clamp,observing
the arrows on the filter indicating the direction
of fuel flow. If there is a plastic band or sleeve
on the filter, position the clamp over the sleeve
to prevent chafing. Tighten the clamp bolt.
7 Refit the inlet and outlet unions, using new
sealing washers. Tighten the union bolts.
8 Reconnect the battery. Have an assistant

switch the ignition on and off a few times to
pressurise the system; watch the filter for
leakage as this is done.
9 Lower the vehicle on completion.

V6 engines

10 This operation is essentially the same as
described above, noting that the fuel system
should first be depressurised, see Chapter 4,
Section 28.
11 Once the new filter has been installed,
switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
system then check the filter unions for leaks.

Renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve
by pulling it from the oil separator and
loosening the hose clip (see illustration). Fit
the new valve, tighten the clip, and insert it
into the oil separator grommet.

Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.

42 Crankcase ventilation vent

valve renewal

41 Fuel filter renewal

40 Automatic transmission

brake band adjustment

1•19

1

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

41.4 Fuel filter outlet union (arrowed) ­OHC engine

42.1 Pulling the vent valve from the oil
separator - SOHC engine

40.3 Brake band adjuster screw (A) and
locknut (B)

If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Sections of Chapter 10.

1 An assistant and bleeding equipment will be
needed. A considerable quantity of hydraulic
fluid will be required - probably about 2 litres
(nearly half a gallon).

2 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle and remove
the front wheels.

3 Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
4 Open both front bleed screws one full turn.

Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
the free end of each tube in a jar.
5 Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
6 When air emerges from both bleed screws,
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
without disconnecting it and remove the
inboard brake pad.
7 Depress the caliper piston, using a purpose­made tool or a blunt item such as a tyre lever,
to force more fluid out of the caliper. Hold the

piston depressed and have the assistant
pump the pedal until air emerges from the
bleed screw again.
8 Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
9 Repeat the purging operation on the right­hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the
bleed screw yet.
10 Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid.
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand caliper
at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the level of the
bleed screw.
11 Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.

44 Brake hydraulic fluid renewal

43 Brake hydraulic system seal

and hose renewal

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

12 Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear of
the piston. Have the assistant depress the
brake pedal gently in order to move the
caliper piston out.
13 With the pedal held depressed, slacken
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
can now be released.
14 Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-

hand brake pad and caliper.
15 Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
pad again. Carry out the operations described
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
caliper.
16 Bleed the rear brakes as described in
Chapter 10.
17 Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts.
18 Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
up to the discs, then make a final check of the

hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
reservoir cap.

Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
recommended as a precautionary measure.
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Sections 13 and 45
for the full renewal procedure.

45 Camshaft drivebelt renewal -

SOHC engines

1 Before proceeding, note the precautions
given in Chapter 3, Section 1.

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 Remove the expansion tank cap. Take

precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.
4 Place a drain pan of adequate capacity
beneath the radiator drain plug. Unscrew the
plug, without removing it, and allow the
coolant to drain (see illustration). On OHC
engines, release the hose clip and remove the
rubber cap from the bleed spigot on top of the
thermostat housing (see illustration). On V6
engines, remove the bleed screw (if fitted)
from the radiator top hose.
5 Place another drain pan below the cylinder
block drain plug, which is located on the right­hand side of the engine (except DOHC engine
which has no plug). Remove the drain plug
and allow the coolant to drain from the block.
6 Dispose of the old coolant safely, or keep it
in a covered container if it is to be re-used.

7 Flushing should not be necessary unless
periodic renewal of the coolant has been
neglected, or unless plain water has been
used as coolant. In either case the coolant will
appear rusty and dark in colour. Flushing is
then required and should be carried out as
follows.
8 Drain the system and disconnect the top
hose from the radiator. Insert a garden hose
into the radiator and run water into the radiator
until it flows clear from the drain plug.
9 Run the hose into the expansion tank (OHC
engines) or into the radiator top hose (V6
engines) until clean water comes out of the
cylinder block drain plug. On DOHC engines
there is no drain plug in the cylinder block, so
the engine should be flushed until water runs
clear from the radiator bottom hose.
10 If, after a reasonable period the water still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent.
11 Flush the heater matrix by disconnecting
one of the heater hoses and running the hose
into that.
12 In severe cases of contamination the
radiator should be removed, inverted and

flushed in the reverse direction to normal flow,
ie with the water going in at the bottom and
out at the top. Shake the radiator gently while
doing this to dislodge any deposits.
13 Refit any hoses which were disturbed,
making sure that they and their clips are in
good condition. Refit the cylinder block drain
plug and tighten the radiator drain plug.
14 On OHC engines, make sure that the
bleed spigot cap is still removed (not DOHC).
On V6 engines, check, if applicable, that the
bleed screw is still removed.
15 Pour coolant in through the expansion
tank filler hole until the level is up to the MAX
line.
16 Refit the bleed spigot cap or screw when
coolant starts to emerge from the spigot.
Tighten the clip.
17 Squeeze the radiator hoses to help
disperse airlocks. Top-up the coolant further if
necessary, then refit and tighten the expansion
tank cap.
18 Run the engine up to operating
temperature, checking for coolant leaks. Stop
the engine and allow it to cool, then top-up the
coolant again to the MAX mark if necessary.

46 Engine coolant renewal

1•20

Every 2 years

46.4b Releasing the bleed spigot cap ­OHC engine

46.4a Radiator drain plug (arrowed) ­OHC engine

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

Engine

Oil filter type (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C102

Valve clearances (cold):

SOHC:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.03 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

V6:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 mm (0.014 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 mm (0.016 in)

Cooling system

Specific gravity at 45 to 50% antifreeze concentration . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.069 to 1.077

Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

Fuel system

Air filter element type:

1.8 litre (carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W118

2.0 litre (carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W152

2.0 litre and V6 (injection) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U507

Fuel filter type:

All models (injection) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204

Ignition system

Spark plugs:

1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RF7YCC or RF7YC

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN7YCC or RN7YC

2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

2.9 litre V6 with catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC

Spark plug electrode gap*:

Champion RF7YCC and RN7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

Champion RF7YC and RN7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm

Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm

Champion RS9YCC and RS9YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Ignition HT lead set:

Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 k ohms maximum per lead

Type:

1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-09 boxed set

1.8 and 2.0 litre (Male distributor fitting) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-10 boxed set

*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be
fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Brakes

Brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)

Tyres

Tyre sizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 SR/TR/HR 14, 185/70 HR/TR/VR 14, 195/65 HR 15, 205/60

VR 15

Tyre pressures: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front Rear

Normal load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in

2

) 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 lbf/in

2

) 2.9 bar (42 lbf/in2)

Note: Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier
for correct pressures if necessary.

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 16 to 21

Engine block coolant drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18

Spark plugs:

1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to28 15 to 21

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 21 11 to 15

2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 40 22 to 30

2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 21 11 to 15

Manual gearbox filler/level and drain plugs:

N9 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 17 to 20

MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30

Brake caliper slide bolts:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 to 35 23 to 26

Roadwheel bolts (steel and alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 100 52 to 74

1•21

1

Specifications

1•22

Notes

Chapter 2 Part A:

1.8 & 2.0 litre SOHC engines

Ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Auxiliary shaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Auxiliary shaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Auxiliary shaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Camshaft and cam followers - examination and renovation . . . . . .30

Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .27

Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .28

Cylinder head - decarbonising, valve grinding and renovation . . . .34

Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Engine and gearbox - reconnection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Engine - refitting without gearbox/transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

Engine - refitting with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Engine - removal leaving gearbox/transmission in vehicle . . . . . . . .5

Engine - removal with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Engine - separation from manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Flywheel ring gear - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .2

Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Methods of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Oil pump - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . .29

Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Timing belt - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

General 1.8 HC E 2.0 HC 2.0 HC EFi

Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REC NEL NRA

Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.20 (3.39) 90.82 (3.58) 90.82 (3.58)

Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03)

Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 (109.6) 1993 (121.6) 1993 (121.6)

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1 9.2:1 9.2:1

Compression pressure at cranking speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar (160 to 189 lbf/in2)

Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 @ 5400 77 @ 5200 85 @ 5500

Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 @ 3500 157 @ 4000 160 @ 4000

Lubrication system

Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants and fluids”

Oil capacity (drain and refill, including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.75 litres (6.6 pints) approx

Oil pressure (SAE 10W/30 oil at 80°C/176°F):

At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar

Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 4.7 bar

Oil pressure warning light switch setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 bar

2A•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

2A

2A•2 SOHC engines

Oil pump

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bi-rotor

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . From auxiliary shaft

Operating clearances:

Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.30 mm

Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.20 mm

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.10 mm

Cylinder block 1.8 (REC) 2.0 (NEL and NRA)

Cast identification mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18S 20S

Bore diameter:

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.180 to 86.190 mm 90.800 to 90.810 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.190 to 86.200 mm 90.810 to 90.820 mm

Standard grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.200 to 86.210 mm 90.820 to 90.830 mm

Standard grade 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.210 to 86.220 mm 90.830 to 90.840 mm

Oversize grade 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.690 to 86.700 mm 91.310 to 91.320 mm

Oversize grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.700 to 86.710 mm 91.320 to 91.330 mm

Oversize grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.710 to 86.720 mm 91.330 to 91.340 mm

Standard service grade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not stated 90.830 to 90.840 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not stated 91.330 to 91.340 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not stated 91.830 to 91.840 mm

Crankshaft

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.970 to 56.990 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.720 to 56.740 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.470 to 56.490 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.220 to 56.240 mm

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.970 to 55.990 mm

Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.064 mm

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.980 to 52.000 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.730 to 51.750 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.480 to 51.500 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.230 to 51.250 mm

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.980 to 51.000 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.30 to 2.35 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.50 to 2.55 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 to 0.28 mm

Connecting rods

Big-end parent bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.000 to 55.020 mm

Small-end bush internal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.964 to 23.976 mm

Pistons 1.8 (REC) 2.0 (NEL and NRA)

Diameter:

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.145 to 86.155 mm 90.765 to 90.775 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.155 to 86.165 mm 90.775 to 90.785 mm

Standard grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.165 to 86.175 mm 90.785 to 90.795 mm

Standard grade 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.175 to 86.185 mm 90.795 to 90.805 mm

Service standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.170 to 86.195 mm 90.790 to 90.815 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.670 to 86.695 mm 91.290 to 91.315 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.170 to 87.195 mm 91.790 to 91.815 mm

Clearance in bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.050 mm 0.015 to 0.050 mm

Piston ring end gaps:

Top and centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 mm 0.4 to 0.6 mm

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 1.4 mm 0.4 to 1.4 mm

Gudgeon pins

Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.0 to 68.8 mm

Diameter:

Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.994 to 23.997 mm

Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.997 to 24.000 mm

Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24.000 to 24.003 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.008 to 0.014 mm

Interference in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.018 to 0.039 mm

SOHC engines 2A•3

2A

Cylinder head

Identification mark:

1.8 (REC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

2.0 (NEL and NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44° 30’ to 45° 00’

Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.0 mm

Valve guide bore:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.063 to 8.088 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.263 to 8.288 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.463 to 8.488 mm

Camshaft bearing parent bores:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.072 to 45.102 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.692 to 47.722 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.072 to 48.102 mm

Auxiliary shaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.204 mm

Camshaft

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Toothed belt

Thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.98 to 4.01 mm

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.104 to 0.204 mm

Cam lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3323 mm

Cam length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.26 to 36.60 mm

Valve timing:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18° ATDC

Bearing journal diameter:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.987 to 42.013 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.607 to 44.633 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.987 to 45.013 mm

Bearing bush internal diameter:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.035 to 42.055 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.655 to 44.675 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.035 to 45.055 mm

Valve clearances (cold)

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.03 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

Inlet valves

Length:

1.8 (REC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.75 to 112.75 mm

2.0 (NEL and NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110.65 to 111.65 mm

Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.80 to 42.20 mm

Stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm

Stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.063 mm

Exhaust valves

Length:

1.8 (REC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.15 to 112.15 mm

2.0 (NEL) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110.05 to 111.05 mm

2.0 (NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110.75 to 111.75 mm

Head diameter:

1.8 (REL) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.00 to 34.40 mm

2.0 (NEL and NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.80 to 36.20 mm

Stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.999 to 8.017 mm

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm

Stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.046 to 0.089 mm

Valve springs

Free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.0 mm

Inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.45 to 23.95 mm

Wire diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.87 to 3.93 mm

Number of turns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.7

The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line, single
overhead camshaft type (see illustration). It is
mounted longitudinally at the front of the car.
Three versions are available: 1.8 litre
carburettor, 2.0 litre carburettor and 2.0 litre
fuel-injection.

The crankshaft incorporates five main
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
centre main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.

The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt
and operates the slightly angled valve via cam
followers which pivot on ball-pins.

The auxiliary shaft, which is also driven by
the toothed belt, drives the distributor, oil
pump and on some models the fuel pump.

1 General information

2A•4 SOHC engines

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 to 102 65 to 75

Big-end bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 47 30 to 35

Crankshaft pulley bolt:

1.8 (REC) and 2.0 (NEL) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 115 81 to 85

2.0 (NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 to 130 85 to 96

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 50 33 to 37

Auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 50 33 to 37

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 to 70 47 to 52

Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

Oil pump cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

Sump bolts (see text):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 to 2 0.7 to 1.5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Stage 3 (after 20 minutes running) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 16 to 21

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 15 9 to 11

Valve adjustment ball-pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 55 37 to 41

Cylinder head bolts (see text):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 75 52 to 55

Stage 3 (after 5 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°

Rocker cover bolts (see text):

Bolts 1 to 6 - Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Bolts 7 and 8 - Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 to 3 1.5 to 2

Bolts 9 and 10 - Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Bolts 7 and 8 - Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Front cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 17 10 to 13

Timing belt tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

Oil pump pick-up pipe:

To pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 14 8 to 10

To block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

Engine mounting to crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 51 30 to 38

1.1 Exploded view of the SOHC engine

1 Timing cover
2 Cam follower
3 Retaining spring clip
4 Crankshaft front oil seal housing
5 Auxiliary shaft front cover
6 Thrust plate
7 Auxiliary shaft
8 Thrust plate
9 Vent valve
10 Oil separator
11 Crankshaft rear oil seal
12 Thrust washer

The cylinder head is of crossflow design
with the inlet manifold mounted on the left­hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
on the right-hand side.

Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full­flow filter into the engine oil galleries where it
is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and
auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft. The undersides of the pistons are
supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends.
The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied
with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The
camshaft and cam followers are supplied with
oil via a drilled spray tube from the centre
camshaft bearing.

A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases
are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil
separator and on carburettor models a control
valve.

The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine, although the
work may be easier and quicker with the
engine removed:

a) Removal and refitting of the cylinder head
b) Removal and refitting of the camshaft

(after removing the cylinder head)

c) Removal and refitting of the timing belt

and sprockets

d) Removal and refitting of the sump and oil

pump

e) Removal and refitting of the pistons,

connecting rods and big-end bearings
f) Renewal of the engine mountings
g) Renewal of the crankshaft oil seals
h) Removal and refitting of the auxiliary shaft
j)Removal and refitting of the flywheel

The engine must be removed from the

vehicle for the following operations:

a) Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b) Removal and refitting of the crankshaft

The engine may be lifted out either on its
own or together with the gearbox. Unless work
is also necessary on the gearbox it is
recommended that the engine is removed on
its own. Where automatic transmission is
fitted, the engine should be removed on its
own owing to the additional weight. If the
engine and gearbox are removed together,
they will have to be tilted at a very steep angle;
make sure that the range of the lifting tackle is
adequate.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the bonnet.
3 On carburettor models, remove the air

cleaner. On fuel-injection models, remove the
air cleaner cover, vane airflow meter and air
inlet trunking.

4 If a splash guard is fitted, remove it.
5 Release the securing clips and bolts and

remove the upper half of the fan shroud. On
carburettor models remove the lower half of
the shroud too.

6 Drain the cooling system.
7 Disconnect the radiator top and bottom

hoses from the thermostat housing and water
pump. Disconnect the top hose spur from the
expansion tank and unclip it.
8 Disconnect the heater hoses from the water
pump and from the inlet manifold or automatic
choke housing. Unclip the hoses.
9 On models with power steering, remove the
steering pump.
10 Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
inlet manifold, labelling them if there is any
possibility of confusion.
11 Disconnect the following wiring, as
applicable:

a) Alternator
b) Temperature gauge sender
c) Engine management temperature sensor
d) Distributor
e) Oil pressure switch
f) Automatic choke and thermo-switch
g) Carburettor stepper motor
h) Fuel-injection system sub-harness
j) Inlet manifold heater

12 Disconnect the HT lead from the coil.
13 If an oil level sensor is fitted, remove it
(see illustration).
14 Unbolt the throttle cable bracket,

disconnect the inner cable and move the cable
and bracket aside. Also disconnect the
downshift cable on automatic transmission
models.
15 On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel lines from the fuel pump (mechanised
type) and from the carburettor. Be prepared

for fuel spillage.
16 On fuel-injection models, disconnect the

fuel supply union from the injector rail, and the
fuel return pipe from the fuel pressure

regulator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and

for some spray if the supply side is still
under pressure.
17 Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the

manifold.
18 On models with air conditioning, unbolt
the compressor and move it aside without
straining the flexible hoses.

19 Remove the starter motor.
20 Although not specified by the

manufacturers, the author advises that either
the radiator or the cooling fan be removed, to
reduce the risk of damage.
21 Attach the lifting tackle to the two lifting
eyes on the engine, so that when suspended
the engine will be roughly horizontal. Take the
weight of the engine.
22 Remove the single nut on each side which
secures each engine bearer to its mounting.
23 Working under the vehicle, remove the
bracing strap which connects the engine and
transmission. Unbolt the adapter plate from
the bottom of the transmission bellhousing.
24 On automatic transmission models, unbolt
the torque converter from the driveplate.
25 Remove the engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
Note the location of the battery earth strap.
26 Support the transmission, preferably with
a trolley jack.
27 Check that nothing has been overlooked,
then raise the engine and draw it forwards
clear of the transmission input shaft. Do not
allow the weight of the engine to hang on the
shaft, and do not lift the transmission by it.
28 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the torque converter stays engaged
with the oil pump in the transmission as the
engine is withdrawn,
29 Lift the engine out of the engine bay and
take it to the bench.

1 Engine removal with automatic transmission
is not recommended.
2 Proceed as in the previous Section,
paragraphs 1 to 18.
3 Disconnect the wiring from the starter
motor, and release the battery earth cable
from its bellhousing bolt.

4 Remove the radiator.
5 Remove the propeller shaft.
6 Disconnect and unclip the reversing light

switch and speedometer sender unit wiring.

7 Disconnect the clutch cable.
8 Unbolt the anti-roll bar mounting brackets

and lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible.
9 From inside the vehicle remove the gear
lever.

10 Drain the engine oil.
11 Unhook the exhaust system from its

mounting on the gearbox crossmember. Either
support the system or remove it completely.
12 Support the gearbox, preferably with a
trolley jack, then unbolt and remove the
gearbox crossmember. Note the earth strap (if
fitted) under one of the crossmember bolts.
13 Attach lifting tackle to the two lifting eyes
on the engine so that when suspended it will
be at an angle of approximately 45°.

6 Engine - removal with manual

gearbox

5 Engine - removal leaving

gearbox/transmission in vehicle

4 Methods of engine removal

3 Major operations requiring

engine removal

2 Major operations possible with

the engine in the vehicle

SOHC engines 2A•5

2A

5.13 Oil level sensor

14 Take the weight of the engine and remove

the two engine bearer-to-mounting nuts.
15 Lift the engine/transmission, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack. Draw the unit
forwards and lift it out of the engine bay.
16 Temporarily refit the anti-roll bar if the
vehicle is to be moved.

1 With the engine and gearbox on the bench,
remove the starter motor.

2 Remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate.
3 Remove the bracing strap and the

remaining engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
4 With the aid of an assistant draw the
gearbox off the engine. Do not allow the weight
of the gearbox to hang on the input shaft.

1 It is best to mount the engine on a
dismantling stand, but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
have to be stripped down on the floor.
2 Cleanliness is most important, and if the
engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
3 Avoid working with the engine on a concrete
floor, as grit can be a real source of trouble.
4 As parts are removed, clean them in paraffin.
However, do not immerse parts with internal
oilways in paraffin as it is difficult to remove,
usually requiring a high pressure hose.

5 It is advisable to have suitable containers to
hold small items according to their use, as this
will help when reassembling the engine and
also prevent possible losses.
6 Always obtain complete sets of gaskets
when the engine is being dismantled, but
retain the old gaskets with a view of using
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.

7 When possible, refit nuts, bolts and washers
in their location after being removed, as this
helps protect the threads and will also be
helpful when reassembling the engine.
8 Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new parts supplied.
9 A Torx key, size T55, will be needed for
dealing with the cylinder head bolts. A 12­spline key (to fit bolt size M8) will be needed
for the oil pump bolts. Other Torx and 12­spline bolts may be encountered; sets of the
keys required to deal with them are available
from most motor accessory shops and tool
factors.
10 Another tool which is useful, though by no
means essential, is a valve spring compressor
of the type which hooks under the camshaft
(see illustration). As a Ford tool this bears the
number 21-005-A; proprietary versions may
also be available.

Before dismantling the engine into its main
components, the following ancillary
components can be removed. The actual
items removed, and the sequence of removal,
will depend on the work to be done:

Inlet manifold and associated items
Exhaust manifold
Fuel pump (mechanical type) and pushrod
Alternator
Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs
Fan, water pump and thermostat
Oil pressure switch

(see illustration)

Temperature gauge sender

Oil filter and dipstick
Engine bearer arms (see illustration)
Crankcase ventilation components
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket (see

illustration)

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, carry out
the following preliminary operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead
b) Drain the cooling system
c) Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds
d) Disconnect the radiator top hose from the

thermostat housing, and the spur from the
expansion tank

e) Disconnect the wiring from the

temperature gauge sender

f) Remove the distributor cap, HT leads and

spark plugs

2 Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the timing
cover (see illustration). Note the location of
the cover in the special bolt.
3 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top
dead centre) notch on the pulley is aligned
with the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal
housing, and the pointer on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with the indentation on the
cylinder head (see illustrations). Note the
position of the distributor rotor arm, and mark
its contact end in relation to the rim of the
distributor body.

4 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolts. Pivot

10 Cylinder head - removal

9 Ancillary components - removal

8 Engine dismantling - general

information

7 Engine - separation from

manual gearbox

2A•6 SOHC engines

9.1a Engine oil pressure switch (arrowed)

9.1b Removing an engine bearer arm 9.1c Removing the alternator bracket

8.10 This valve spring compressor is used
by hooking it under the camshaft

Clean oilways with nylon pipe
cleaners.

10.2 Removing the timing cover

the tensioner to release the load on the belt
and slip the belt off the camshaft sprocket. Do
not kink the belt, or get oil or grease on it.
5 Remove the ten bolts which secure the
rocker cover, noting the location of the
different shapes of reinforcing plates. Remove
the cover and gasket.
6 Using a Torx key, slacken the cylinder head
bolts half a turn at a time in the reverse of the
tightening sequence.

7 With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder
head from the block. If it is stuck, tap it with a
wooden or plastic mallet to free it. Do not
lever between the head and block, or the
mating surfaces may be damaged. Do not
crank the engine to free the head, as the
pistons may contact the valves.
8 Place the cylinder head on a couple of
wooden blocks so that the protruding valves
are not damaged.

1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
the previous Section.
2 Hold the camshaft with a spanner on the lug
behind the sixth cam. Unscrew and remove
the camshaft sprocket bolt (see illustration).

3 Remove the camshaft sprocket using a
puller if necessary. Remove the backplate

(see illustration).
4 Unscrew the bolts and remove the camshaft
oil supply tube (see illustration).
5 Note how the cam follower retaining spring

clips are fitted, then unhook them from the
cam followers.
6 If the special tool 21-005-A is available,
compress the valve springs in turn and remove
the cam followers, keeping them identified for
location. Alternatively loosen the locknuts and
back off the ball-pins until the cam followers
can be removed (see illustration).
7 Unscrew the bolts and remove the camshaft
thrust plate (see illustration).
8 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
rear of the cylinder head, taking care not to
damage the bearings (see illustration).

9 Prise the oil seal from the front bearing (see
illustration).

11 Camshaft - removal

SOHC engines 2A•7

2A

10.3a Alignment of crankshaft and

camshaft timing marks, and distributor

rotor position, for No 1 firing

10.3b Camshaft sprocket pointer aligned
with the indentation on the cylinder head

11.6 Removing the cam followers

11.2 Removing the camshaft sprocket bolt
and sprocket

11.3 Removing the camshaft sprocket
backplate

11.4 Removing the camshaft oil supply
tube

11.9 Prise out the camshaft bearing oil seal11.7 Removing the camshaft thrust plate 11.8 Removing the camshaft

1 Remove the camshaft as described in the

previous Section. (If tool 21-005-A is available,
leave the camshaft in place until the valves
have been removed).
2 Using a valve spring compressor, compress
each valve spring in turn until the split collets
can be removed. Release the compressor and
remove the cap and spring, keeping them
identified for location (see illustrations).

3 Remove each valve from the cylinder head,
but identify them for location (see illustration).
4 Prise the valve stem oil seals from the tops
of the valve guides (see illustration).
5 If necessary unscrew the cam follower ball­pins from the cylinder head, keeping them
identified for location.
6 If necessary unscrew the bolts and remove
the timing belt tensioner.

7 Remove the thermostat and housing.
8 Remove the temperature gauge sender unit.
9 Remove the manifold studs if wished by

locking two nuts onto each stud in turn and
unscrewing it.

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, carry out
the following preliminary operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead
b) Remove the radiator and disconnect the

hose from the thermostat housing

c) Remove the accessory drivebelt(s)

2 Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the timing
cover. Note the location of the cover in the
special bolt.
3 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt,
turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top
dead centre) notch on the pulley is aligned

with the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal
housing, and the pointer on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with the indentation on the
cylinder head. Note the position of the
distributor rotor arm. Mark the contact end of
the rotor in relation to the rim of the distributor
body.
4 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining
bolts then pivot the tensioner pulley away from
the belt, to obtain maximum drivebelt free play
(see illustration). Hold the tensioner pulley in
this position and securely retighten the
retaining bolts.
5 Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft
sprocket.
6 Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging 5th

gear (manual gearbox), or by removing the
starter motor and jamming the ring gear teeth.
Alternatively, if the pulley has peripheral bolt
holes, screw in a couple of bolts and use a
lever between them to jam it. Do not allow the
crankshaft to turn very far, or piston/valve
contact may occur.
7 Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily,
refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see
illustration). A puller will almost certainly be
required on fuel-injection models.
8 Remove the guide washer from in front of
the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the
timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or
get oil on it if it is to be re-used.
9 Remove the crankshaft sprocket using a
puller if necessary (see illustration).

13 Timing belt and sprockets -

removal

12 Cylinder head - dismantling

2A•8 SOHC engines

12.2a Compressing a valve spring

13.4 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed) 13.7 Using a puller to remove the
crankshaft pulley

12.4 Removing a valve stem oil seal

13.8 Remove the guide washer from in
front of the crankshaft sprocket

12.2b Removing a valve spring and cap

12.3 Removing a valve

If the caps are difficult to
remove do not continue to
tighten the compressor, but

gently tap the top of the tool
with a hammer. Always ensure that the
compressor is held firmly over the cap.