Ford Scorpio 1985 1998, Scorpio User Manual

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Air conditioner condenser check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Air conditioner refrigerant charge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Automatic choke check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Automatic transmission brake band adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Automatic transmission selector lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Brake system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Camshaft drivebelt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

Crankcase ventilation vent valve renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Driveshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Engine inlet manifold security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Engine valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Final drive oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Front and rear brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Hot starting check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Idle mixture check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Idle speed linkage clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Ignition system component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Manual gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Oil filler cap check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See end of Chapter

Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are
the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer
for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak
condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because
it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven

frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more
frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory­authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.

1•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Contents

1

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Check the engine oil level (Section 3).
mm Check the engine coolant level (Section 3).
mm Check the brake fluid level (Section 3).
mm Check the screen washer fluid level (Section 3).
mm Visually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear or

damage (Section 4).

mm Check and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures

(Section 4).

mm Check and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte

level - where applicable (Section 6).

mm Check the operation of the horn, all lights, and the

wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7).

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
6 months – whichever comes sooner

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 8)
mm Check brake pads for wear (front and rear) (Section 9)
mm Check tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13)
mm Check idle speed (1.8 litre only) (Section 15)
mm Check idle mixture (not fuel-injection models) - at first

6000 miles only (Section 16)

mm Clean oil filler cap (Section 14)
mm Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid

leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)

mm Check function and condition of seat belts (Section 11)
mm Check operation of brake fluid level warning indicator

(Section 9)

mm Check condition and security of exhaust system

(Section 12).

Ford Granada maintenance schedule

1•2

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months – whichever comes sooner

mm Check operation of latches, check straps and locks; lubricate if

necessary (Section 19)

mm Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s); adjust or

renew as necessary (Section 21)

mm Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and neutralise

corrosion if necessary (Section 22)

mm Check engine valve clearances (Section 23)
mm Check tightness of inlet manifold bolts (V6 only) (Section 24)
mm Renew spark plugs (Section 20)
mm Clean air conditioning condenser fins (when applicable)

(Section 25)

mm Check air conditioning refrigerant charge (when applicable)

(Section 26)

mm Check manual gearbox oil level (Section 18)
mm Check final drive oil level (Section 27)
mm Lubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown linkage

(Section 28)

mm Check security and condition of steering and suspension

components, gaiters and boots (Section 29)

mm Check condition and security of driveshaft joints (Section 30)
mm Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other damage

(Section 31)

mm Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 32)
mm Clean idle speed control linkage at throttle (when applicable)

(Section 33)

mm Road test and check operation of ABS (Section 34)
mm Check automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot)

(Section 17)

mm Check engine for satisfactory hot starting (Section 37)
mm Check that automatic choke is fully off with engine hot (not fuel-

injection models) (Section 36)

mm Check power steering fluid level (when applicable) (Section 35)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or
2 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 38)
mm Clean and inspect distributor cap, rotor arm, HT leads and coil

tower (Section 39)

mm Adjust automatic transmission brake bands (Section 40)
mm Renew fuel filter (fuel-injection models only) (Section 41)
mm Renew crankcase ventilation vent valve (carburettor models)

(Section 42)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if necessary

(Section 43)

mm Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 44)
mm Renew camshaft drivebelt on SOHC models - recommended as

a precautionary measure (Section 45)

Every 2 years - regardless of mileage

mm Renew coolant (Section 46)

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant type/specification

1 Engine Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range

SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50 to API SG/CD
or better

2 Cooling system Soft water/antifreeze to Ford spec.

SSM 97B9103-A or SDM-M97B49-A

3 Manual transmission:

N9 Semi-synthetic gear oil to Ford

spec. ESD M2C175-A (80 EP)

MT75 Gear oil to Ford spec. ESD-

M2C186-A

4 Automatic transmission ATF to Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A

(TQ Dexron II)

5 Final drive Gear oil SAE 90EP to API GL5
6 Brake hydraulic system Hydraulic fluid to Ford spec.

SAM- 6C9103-A

7 Power steering ATF to Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A

(TQ Dexron II)

Maintenance Schedule

1•3

1

Maintenance Schedule

Engine oil

SOHC:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.75 litres (6.6 pints)

DOHC:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.5 litres (7.9 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.0 litres (7.0 pints)

V6:

With filte r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.25 litres (7.5 pints)

Cooling system

OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.0 litres (14.1 pints)

V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.5 litres (15.0 pints)

Fuel tank

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 litres (15.4 gallons)

Manual gearbox

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.25 litres (2.2 pints)

Automatic transmission

All models (from dry) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.5 litres (15.0 pints)

Final drive

7 inch crownwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.9 litres (1.6 pints)

7.5 inch crownwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.3 litres (2.3 pints)

Power steering

OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.65 litres (1.1 pints)

V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.75 litres (1.3 pints)

Capacities

1 Battery
2 Engine oil dipstick
3 Inlet manifold
4 Throttle/kickdown cable

bracket
5 Suspension turrets
6 Ignition coil
7 Air cleaner cover
8 Fuel pressure regulator
9 Vane airflow meter
10 Headlight covers
11 Tune-up label
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Oil filler cap
14 Spark plug leads
15 VIN plate
16 Radiator hoses
17 Horn
18 Windscreen washer

pump

19 Windscreen washer

reservoir
20 Alternator
21 Coolant expansion tank

cap
22 Engine mounting
23 Heater hose
24 Automatic transmission

fluid dipstick
25 Brake fluid reservoir

cap
26 Brake hydraulic unit

accumulator
27 Brake hydraulic unit

valve block
28 Main fuse/relay box
29 Wiper motor (behind

cover)
30 Heater blower cover

1 Windscreen wiper motor
2 Battery
3 Suspension strut top

mounting
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Ignition distributor
6 Coolant expansion tank
7 Washer fluid reservoir
8 Automatic transmission

fluid dipstick
9 Oil filler cap
10 Engine oil level dipstick
11 Air cleaner element

housing
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Ignition module
14 Manifold Absolute

Pressure (MAP) sensor

15 Throttle position sensor
16 Power steering fluid

reservoir
17 Anti-theft alarm horn
18 Speed control system

diaphragm
19 Speed control system

vacuum pump
20 Vehicle identification

(VIN) plate
21 Fuel pressure regulator
22 Air charge temperature

sensor
23 Manifold absolute

pressure (MAP) sensor

vapour trap
24 Fuse/relay box

Under-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with

fuel-injection

Under-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre DOHC Granada with

fuel-injection

1•4

Maintenance Schedule

1 Battery
2 Suspension turrets
3 Air cleaner cover
4 Vane airflow meters
5 Headlight covers
6 Tune-up label
7 Auxiliary driving light covers
8 Crankcase ventilation hoses
9 Throttle linkage cover
10 Throttle cable and kickdown switch
11 Plenum chamber
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Radiator top hose
14 Oil filler cap
15 Power steering fluid reservoir
16 Horn
17 Washer fluid level switch
18 Windscreen washer pump
19 Windscreen washer reservoir
20 Coolant level switch
21 Coolant expansion tank cap
22 Engine mounting
23 Heater hose
24 Brake hydraulic unit valve block
25 Brake fluid reservoir cap
26 Brake hydraulic unit accumulator
27 Main fuse/relay box
28 Wiper motor (behind cover)
29 Heater blower cover
30 Fuel pressure regulator
31 Distributor screening lid
32 Engine oil dipstick
33 Automatic transmission fluid dipstick

Under-bonnet view of a 2.8 litre V6 Granada

1 Brake and fuel pipes
2 Transmission sump
3 Transmission crossmember
4 Speedometer sender unit
5 Propeller shaft coupling
6 Exhaust flanged joint
7 Exhaust mounting
8 Exhaust pipe
9 Jacking points
10 Anti-roll bar clamps
11 Anti-roll bar
12 Brake calipers
13 Brake flexible hoses
14 Suspension lower arms
15 Front crossmember
16 Track rods
17 Track rod ends
18 Steering rack bellows
19 Radiator bottom hose
20 Alternator
21 Transmission fluid cooler hoses
22 Crankshaft pulley
23 Fan
24 Oil filter
25 Sump drain plug
26 Starter motor
27 Starter motor solenoid

Front underbody view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with automatic transmission

1•5

1

Maintenance Schedule

1 Track rod end
2 Track rod
3 Steering gear gaiter
4 Water pump
5 Starter motor
6 Front suspension lower arm
7 Front suspension anti-roll bar
8 Exhaust downpipe
9 Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor -

models with catalytic converter
10 Front suspension crossmember
11 Sump drain plug
12 Power steering pump
13 Washer fluid reservoir
14 Radiator cooling fans
15 Catalytic converter (where fitted)
16 Catalytic converter heatshield (where

fitted)
17 Transmission crossmember
18 Fuel feed and return pipes
19 Rear brake pipes
20 Steering gear feed and return hoses

Front underbody view of a 2.0 litre DOHC Granada with automatic transmission

1 Rear silencer
2 Fuel pump (fuel-injection)
3 Fuel filter (fuel-injection)
4 Fuel tank
5 Fuel tank straps
6 Anti-roll bar clamps
7 Final drive rear mounting
8 Anti-roll bar
9 Driveshafts
10 Driveshaft joints
11 Final drive unit
12 Handbrake cables
13 Suspension lower arms
14 Crossmember
15 Exhaust hanger
16 Guide plates
17 Propeller shaft
18 Propeller shaft universal joint
19 Brake and fuel pipes
20 Shock absorber lower mountings
21 Jacking points
22 Intermediate silencer
23 Exhaust pipe

Rear underbody view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with fuel-injection

1•6

Maintenance Procedures

This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance
schedule, followed by Sections dealing
specifically with each task in the schedule.
Visual checks, adjustments, component
renewal and other helpful items are included.
Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the
engine compartment and the underside of the
vehicle for the locations of the various
components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can ­and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected
at the same time as the suspension and
steering components.

The first step in this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried out,
then make a list and gather together all the
parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist, or a dealer service department.

If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be kept
in relatively good running condition, and the
need for additional work will be minimised.

It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely if
a used vehicle, which has not received regular
and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test will provide valuable information regarding
the overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide on the extent of the work to be
carried out. If, for example, a compression test
indicates serious internal engine wear,
conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the

performance of the engine, and may prove a
waste of time and money, unless extensive
overhaul work is carried out first.

The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery

(Section 6)

b) Check all the engine-related fluids

(Section 3).

c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 21).
d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 20).
e) Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and

HT leads - as applicable (Chapter 5).
f) Check the condition of the air cleaner filter

element, and renew if necessary (Section 38).
g) Renew the fuel filter (Section 41).
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 10).
i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable (Chapter 4).

If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5).
b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5).
c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4).
d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable (Chapter 5).

f) Renew the ignition HT leads - as

applicable (Chapter 5).

2 Intensive maintenance

1 Introduction

Engine oil

1 Check the oil level as follows.
2 With the vehicle parked on level ground,

and with the engine having been stopped for a
few minutes, open and prop the bonnet.
Withdraw the dipstick, wipe it on a clean rag

and re-insert it fully. Withdraw it again and
read the oil level relative to the marks on the
end of the stick (see illustration).
3 The oil level should be in between the MAX
and MIN marks on the dipstick. If it is at or
below the MIN mark, top-up (via the oil filler
cap) without delay. The quantity of oil required
to raise the lever from MIN to MAX on the
dipstick is approximately 1 litre. Do not overfill

(see illustration).
4 The rate of oil consumption depends on

leaks and on the quantity of oil burnt. External
leakage should be obvious. Oil which is burnt
may enter the combustion chambers through
the valve guides or past the piston rings;
excessive blow-by past the rings can also
force oil out via the crankcase ventilation
system. Driving conditions also affect oil
consumption.
5 Always use the correct grade and type of oil
as shown in “Lubricants and fluids”.

Coolant

6 Check the coolant level as follows.
7 Open and prop the bonnet. Observe the

level of coolant through the translucent walls
of the expansion tank (on the right-hand side
of the engine bay). The level should be up to
the MAX mark when the engine is cold, and
may be somewhat above the mark when hot.
8 If topping-up is necessary, wait for the
system to cool down if it is hot. Place a thick
rag over the expansion tank cap and slacken it

3 Fluid level checks

3.2 Dipstick markings 3.3 Topping up the engine oil

Warning: DO NOT remove the
expansion tank pressure cap
when the engine is hot, as there
is a great risk of scalding.

Weekly checks

to release any pressure. When pressure has
been released, carry on unscrewing the cap
and remove it.
9 Top-up to the MAX mark with the specified
coolant (see illustration). In an emergency
plain water is better than nothing, but
remember that it is diluting the proper coolant.
Do not add cold water to an overheated
engine whilst it is still hot.
10 Refit the expansion tank cap securely
when the level is correct. With a sealed type
cooling system like this, the addition of
coolant should only be necessary at very
infrequent intervals. If frequent topping-up is
required, it is likely there is a leak in the
system. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint
faces for any sign of staining or actual
wetness, and rectify as necessary. If no leaks
can be found, it is advisable to have the
pressure cap and the entire system pressure­tested by a dealer or suitably-equipped
garage, as this will often show up a small leak
not previously apparent.

Brake fluid

Be sure to use only the specified brake
hydraulic fluid, since mixing different types of
fluid can cause damage to the system. See
“Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the
beginning of this Chapter. When adding fluid,
it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for
contamination. The system should be drained
and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or
contamination are seen in the fluid.

11 Check the brake fluid level as follows.
12 With the vehicle parked on level ground

and the ignition switched off, pump the brake
pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal feels
hard.
13 Open the bonnet. Switch on the ignition:
the hydraulic unit pump will be heard running.
Wait until the pump stops, then switch off the
ignition.
14 The fluid level in the reservoir should now
be between the MAX and MIN marks. If
topping-up is necessary, unplug the electrical
connectors from the cap, then unscrew and
remove it (see illustration). Catch the
hydraulic fluid which will drip off the level
sensor with a piece of rag.

15 Top-up with fresh brake fluid of the
specified type (see illustration). Do not
overfill. Refit and reconnect the reservoir cap
immediately.

16 The fluid level in the reservoir will drop
slightly as the brake pads wear down during
normal operation. If the reservoir requires
repeated replenishment to maintain the proper
level, this is an indication of a hydraulic leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.

Washer fluid

17 When topping-up the windscreen or rear
screen washer fluid reservoir, a screenwash
additive should be added in the quantities
recommended on the bottle.

1 On later models tyres may have tread wear
safety bands, which will appear when the
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
Otherwise, tread wear can be monitored with a
simple, inexpensive device known as a tread
depth indicator gauge (see illustration).
2 Wheels and tyres should give no real
problems in use, provided that a close eye is
kept on them with regard to excessive wear or
damage. To this end, the following points
should be noted.
3 Ensure that the tyre pressures are checked
regularly and maintained correctly (see
illustration). Checking should be carried out
with the tyres cold, not immediately after the
vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are
checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-high
reading will be obtained, owing to heat
expansion. Under no circumstances should
an attempt be made to reduce the pressures
to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or
effective under-inflation will result.

4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such

as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on
one side than the other, are indications of front
wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If
any of these conditions are noted, they should
be rectified as soon as possible.
5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,
and the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause excessive wear, not to
mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due
to heat build-up.

4 Tyre checks

1•7

1

Weekly checks

3.14 Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap 3.15 Topping up the brake fluid reservoir

4.1 Checking the tyre tread depth 4.3 Checking tyre pressure

3.9 Topping up the cooling system

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use extreme

caution when handling and
pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it absorbs
moisture from the air. Excess moisture can
cause a dangerous loss of braking
effectiveness.

If any brake fluid gets onto
paintwork, wash it off
immediately with clean water.

6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced adhesion, harsher ride, and the
danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre
casing.
7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones
embedded in the tread before they penetrate the
tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does
reveal that the tyre has been punctured, refit the
nail so that its point of penetration is marked.
Then immediately change the wheel, and have
the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do not drive on
a tyre in such a condition. If in any doubt as to
the possible consequences of any damage
found, consult your local tyre dealer for advice.
8 Periodically remove the wheels, and clean
any dirt or mud from the inside and outside
surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of
rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy
wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst
parking, and similarly steel wheels may
become dented or buckled. Renewal of the
wheel is very often the only course of remedial
action possible.
9 The balance of each wheel and tyre
assembly should be maintained to avoid
excessive wear, not only to the tyres but also
to the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell,
although in many cases it is particularly
noticeable through the steering wheel.
Conversely, it should be noted that wear or

damage in suspension or steering
components may cause excessive tyre wear.
Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged
wheels, and wheel bearing wear also fall into
this category. Balancing will not usually cure
vibration caused by such wear.
10 Wheel balancing may be carried out with
the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If
balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the
wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some
way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so
that it may be refitted in its original position.
11 General tyre wear is influenced to a large
degree by driving style - harsh braking and
acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce
more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres
may result in more even wear. However, if this
is completely effective, the added expense is
incurred of replacing all four tyres at once,
which may prove financially-restrictive for
many owners.
12 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result
of wheel misalignment. The front wheels
should always be correctly aligned according
to the settings specified by the vehicle
manufacturer.
13 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects
of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this
information is contained in the Motor Vehicle
Construction and Use Regulations. It is
suggested that a copy of these regulations is
obtained from your local police, if in doubt as
to current legal requirements with regard to
tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth,
etc.

Check the operation of all the electrical
equipment, ie. lights, direction indicators,
horn, washers, etc. Refer to the appropriate
Sections of Chapter 13 for details if any of the
circuits are found to be inoperative.

Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.
Rectify any faults found.

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual.

1 The battery fitted as original equipment is
“maintenance-free”, and requires no
maintenance apart from having the case kept
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
2 If a “traditional” type battery is fitted as a
replacement, remove the old cell covers and
check that the plate separators in each cell are
covered by approximately 6 mm (0.25 in) of
electrolyte. If the battery case is translucent,
the cell covers need not be removed to check
the level. Top-up if necessary with distilled or
de-ionized water; do not overfill, and mop up
any spillage at once (see illustration).

6 Battery electrolyte level check

5 Electrical system check

1•8

Weekly checks

Tyre Tread Wear Patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation
(wear on both sides)

Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber
(wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension
parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate

your car’s tyres to the higher
pressures specified for maximum
load or sustained high speed,
don’t forget to reduce the
pressures to normal afterwards.

Toe Wear

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment

Note: The feathered edge of
the tread which characterises
toe wear is best checked by
feel.

Uneven Wear

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension
parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension
parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Out-of-round brake disc/drum

Machine or renew

3 Persistent need for topping-up the battery
electrolyte suggests either that the alternator
output is excessive. or that the battery is
approaching the end of its life.
4 Further information on the battery, charging
and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5,
and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.

1 Clean the wiper blades and the windscreen,
using a solution of concentrated washer fluid
or methylated spirit. Similarly clean the
headlight lens and wiper blades.
2 Check the condition of the wiper blades; if
they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. At the same time,
check the headlight wiper blades (where fitted)
for condition, and renew if necessary.

3 To remove a blade, hinge the arm and blade
away from the screen. Press the tab on the
spring clip in the middle of the blade and
unhook the blade from the arm.

4 Refit the blade by sliding it onto the hook on
the arm (see illustration).
5 Check that the windscreen washer jets
operate correctly, and direct the washer fluid
towards the upper area of the wiper blade
stroke. If necessary, use a pin to reposition the
washer jets.

7 Wiper blade check

1 Before starting this procedure, gather

together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,
as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge
will be removed with it. Take care, however,
not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts
of the engine when working under the vehicle.
To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to

protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when
carrying out this work.
2 Access to the underside of the vehicle will be
greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift,
driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported
on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Whichever
method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain
plug is at the lowest point.
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.
Position the draining container under the drain
plug, then remove the plug completely. If
possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the
sump while unscrewing it by hand the last
couple of turns. As the plug releases from the
threads, move it away sharply so the stream of
oil issuing from the sump runs into the
container, not up your sleeve. Recover the
sealing washer from the drain plug.
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition, and renew it if
necessary. Clean the area around the drain
plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the
plug to the specified torque.
6 Move the container into position under the
oil filter. On SOHC engines, the filter is located
on the left-hand side of the cylinder block in
front of the engine bearer. On DOHC and V6
engines, the filter is located on the right-hand
side of the cylinder block (see illustration).
7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,
slacken the filter, then unscrew it by hand the
rest of the way. Empty the oil from the old filter
into the container, and discard the filter.

8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge from the filter sealing area on the
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter
firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.
10 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the car, then lower the car to the ground
(if applicable).
11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the
dipstick from the top of the filler tube. Fill the
engine, using the correct grade and type of oil
(see “Lubricants and fluids”). An oil can spout
or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in
half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait
a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time
until the level is up to the lower mark on the
dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper
mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and
refit the filler cap.
12 Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
pressure warning light goes out when the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
filter, before the pressure builds up.
13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures” in the
reference Sections of this manual.

8 Engine oil and filter renewal

1•9

1

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

8.6 Fitting an oil filter

6.2 Topping up the battery 7.4 Fitting a windscreen wiper blade

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

For maximum clarity of vision,
windscreen wiper blades
should be renewed annually,
as a matter of course.

Frequent oil and filter changes
are the most important
preventative maintenance

procedures which can be
undertaken by the DIY owner. As
engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and
contaminated, which leads to
premature engine wear.

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front and rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking”).
2 For a quick check, the front brake disc pads
can be inspected without removing the front
wheels, using a mirror and a torch through the
aperture in the rear face of the caliper. If any
one pad is worn down to the minimum
specified, all four pads (on both front wheels)
must be renewed.
3 It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear pads. The pads can
be viewed through the top of the caliper after
removing the spring clip. If any one pad is
worn down to the minimum specified, all four
pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.
4 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
Chapter 10 for further information.
5 At the same interval, check the function of
the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the
wheels, release the handbrake and switch on
the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
warning light: it should come on as the level
sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the
cap.
6 On completion, refit the wheels and lower
the car to the ground.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
over a period of time some very slight seepage
from these areas is to be expected but what
you are really looking for is any indication of a
serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew
the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to
the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual.
2 Similarly, check the transmission for oil
leaks, and investigate and rectify and
problems found.
3 Check the security and condition of all the
engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all
cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in
good condition. Clips which are broken or
missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
4 Carefully check the condition of all coolant,
fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose which
is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will
show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay
close attention to the hose clips that secure
the hoses to the system components. Hose

clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting
in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it
may be a good idea to replace them with
screw-type clips.
5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank
and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other
damage. The connection between the filler neck
and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a
rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due
to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.
6 Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal
pipes. If any damage or deterioration is
discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the
necessary repair work has been carried out.
Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.
7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
8 From within the engine compartment, check
the security of all fuel hose attachments and
pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and
vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
9 Where applicable, check the condition of
the oil cooler hoses and pipes.
10 Check the condition of all exposed wiring
harnesses.
11 Also check the engine and transmission
components for signs of fluid leaks.

Periodically check the belts for fraying or

other damage. If evident, renew the belt.

If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a

damp cloth using a little detergent only.

Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and
if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure
that the original sequence of fitting of washers,
bushes and anchor plates is retained.

With the vehicle raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking”),
check the exhaust system for signs of leaks,
corrosion or damage and check the rubber
mountings for condition and security. Where
damage or corrosion are evident, renew the
system complete or in sections, as applicable,
using the information given in Chapter 4.

With the wheels on the ground, slacken
each wheel nut by a quarter turn, then
retighten it immediately to the specified
torque.

Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any
sludge build-up using paraffin.

Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.

An accurate tachometer (rev. counter) will
be needed to adjust the idle speed. The
engine must be at operating temperature, the
air cleaner element must be clean and the
vacuum hoses fitted, and the engine valve
clearances must be correct. The ignition
system must also be in good condition.

Connect the tachometer to the engine as
instructed by the manufacturers. Start the
engine and allow it to idle. Read the speed
from the tachometer and compare it with the
value in the Specifications of Chapter 4
(Pierburg 2V carburettor).

If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle
speed adjustment screw. Turn the screw
clockwise to increase the speed, and anti­clockwise to decrease the speed (see

illustration).

1.8 litre engine

1 An exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) or other
proprietary device will be needed to adjust the
idle mixture.
2 The engine must be at operating
temperature, the air cleaner element must be
clean and the vacuum hoses fitted, and the

16 Idle mixture check -

carburettor models only

15 Idle speed check - 1.8 litre

SOHC

14 Oil filler cap check

13 Roadwheel security check

12 Exhaust system check

11 Seat belt check

10 Fluid leak check

9 Front and rear brake pad

check

1•10

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

15.3 Idle adjustment screws - Pierburg 2V
carburettor

A Idle speed B Idle mixture

engine valve clearances must be correct. The
ignition system must also be in good
condition.
3 Mixture adjustment is not usual on a routine
basis. If the CO level is incorrect, proceed as
follows.
4 Connect the exhaust gas analyser as
instructed by the manufacturers.
5 Raise the engine speed to 3000 rpm
approximately and hold it at this speed for
30 seconds, then allow it to idle. Repeat this
procedure every 60 seconds until adjustment
is complete.

6 Read the CO level when it has stabilised
after the 3000 rpm burst. The desired level is
given in the Specifications of Chapter 4
(Pierburg 2V carburettor).
7 If the idle mixture needs adjustment, turn
the mixture adjusting screw. The screw may
be covered by a tamperproof plug.
8 Recheck the idle speed after adjusting the
mixture.
9 Stop the engine and disconnect the test
gear.

10 Fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture
adjusting screw if required.

2.0 litre SOHC engine

11 If mixture adjustment is required, proceed
as described for the 1.8 litre engine above.
12 See illustration for the location of the
mixture adjusting screw on the Weber 2V
carburettor fitted to this engine

DOHC engine

13 Proceed as described for the 1.8 litre
engine, noting the following points (see

illustration).
14 Refer to the Specification for the Weber 2V

(TLD) carburettor in Chapter 4.
15 The air cleaner must be removed for
access to the mixture adjustment screw.
16 Prise the tamperproof seal from the
mixture screw.
17 Loosely refit the air cleaner, ensuring that
the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover
breather hose are securely connected and free
from restrictions (there is no need to secure
the air cleaner in position).
18 On completion, fit a new tamperproof seal
to the mixture screw (the service replacement
plug is coloured blue) and refit the air cleaner
assembly.

1 Fluid level should be checked with the
transmission at operating temperature (after a
run) and with the vehicle parked on level
ground.
2 Open and prop the bonnet. With the engine
idling and the handbrake and footbrake
applied, move the gear selector through all
positions three times, finishing up in position
P.
3 Wait one minute. With the engine still idling,
withdraw the transmission dipstick (see
illustration). Wipe the dipstick with a clean
lint-free rag, re-insert it fully and withdraw it

again. Read the fluid level at the end of the
dipstick: it should be between the two
notches.
4 If topping-up is necessary, do so via the
dipstick tube, using clean transmission fluid of
the specified type (see illustration). Do not
overfill.
5 Stop the engine, refit the dipstick and close
the bonnet.
6 Note that if the fluid level was below the
minimum mark when checked or is in constant
need of topping-up, check around the
transmission for any signs of excessive fluid
leaks.If present, leaks must be rectified
without delay.
7 If the colour of the fluid is dark brown or
black this denotes the sign of a worn brake

band or transmission clutches, in which case
have your Ford dealer check the transmission
at the earliest opportunity.

1 Place the vehicle over a pit, or raise and
support it at front and rear. The vehicle must
be level for an accurate check.
2 If the transmission is hot after a run, allow it
to cool for a few minutes. This is necessary
because the oil can foam when hot and give a
false level reading.
3 Wipe clean around the filler/level plug,
which is located on the left-hand side of the
gearbox. Unscrew the plug with a square drive
key and remove it
4 Using a piece of bent wire as a dipstick,
check that the oil level is up to the bottom of
the filler/level plug hole, or no more than 5 mm
(0.2 in) below it.
5 Top-up if necessary using clean oil of the
specified type. Do not overfill; allow excess oil
to drip out of the plug hole if necessary. Refit
and tighten the filler/level plug.
6 Frequent need for topping-up can only be
due to leaks, which should be rectified. The
rear extension oil seal can be renewed in situ
after removing the propeller shaft (N type
only).
7 No periodic oil changing is specified, and no
drain plug is fitted.

18 Manual gearbox oil level

check

17 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1•11

1

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

16.13 Idle adjustment screws- Weber 2V
TLD carburettor

A Idle mixture B Idle speed

16.12 Idle mixture adjustment screw
(arrowed) - Weber 2V carburettor

17.4 Topping up the transmission fluid17.3 The automatic transmission dipstick

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the
hinges and locks with a light machine oil.
2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release
mechanism and exposed sections of inner
cable with a smear of grease.
3 Check the security and operation of all
hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them
where required. Where applicable, check the
operation of the central locking system.
4 Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or is no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.

SOHC and V6 engines

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine.
2 Make sure that the ignition is switched off
before inspecting the HT leads to see if they
carry their cylinder numbers - if not, number
each lead using sticky tape or paint.
3 Pull the HT lead connectors off the plugs.
Pull on the connectors, not on the leads.
4 Blow away any dirt from around the spark
plug recesses in the cylinder head(s).
5 Unscrew and remove the plugs, using a
proprietary plug spanner or a spark plug
socket, extension and ratchet.
6 The condition of the plugs will tell much
about the overall condition of the engine. If the
insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and
white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a
weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly,
a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).
7 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with
hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
8 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct, and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
9 Apply a smear of anti-seize compound to
the threads of the new plugs. Make sure that
the insulators are clean and that the screwed
HT lead adapters are tight. Pay particular
attention to the plug seating surfaces on OHC
engines, since these plugs have no sealing
washers (“taper seat” type) and any dirt will
cause a bad seal.
10 Screw each plug into its hole by hand. If a
plug is reluctant to go in, do not force it with a
spanner, but unscrew it and try again. If the
plug is cross-threaded, it is the cylinder head
which will be damaged.

11 Final tightening of the spark plugs should
ideally be carried out using a torque wrench.
The tightening torques are given in the
Specifications. If a torque wrench is not
available, tighten the plugs beyond the point
where they contact the head as follows:

OHC (taper seat plugs) - One-sixteenth of a

turn maximum

V6 (plugs with washers) - One-quarter of a

turn maximum

12 If the taper seat type of plug is
overtightened, the sealing faces will bite
together and removal will be very difficult.
13 Refit the HT leads to the plugs, paying
attention to the cylinder numbers. Push each
connector firmly onto its plug.
14 Run the engine to verify that the HT leads
have been refitted correctly.

DOHC engines

15 Proceed as described above whilst noting
the following points.

a) Remove the air cleaner as described in

Chapter 4.

b) The minimal length of number 3 HT lead

makes removal from the spark plug
difficult. It is advisable to remove this lead
from the distributor prior to removing it
from the spark plug.

c) The spark plugs are deeply recessed in

the cylinder head and it will be necessary
to use a spark plug socket with a long
extension bar. If possible, use a spark plug
socket with a rubber grip inside as this will
hold onto the spark plug once loosened
and will enable the spark plugs to be
withdrawn and refitted more easily.

SOHC and all V6 engines

1 All of these engines have one or two
drivebelts which drive the water pump and
alternator from the crankshaft pulley. When
power steering is fitted, the same belts drive
the steering pump. The air conditioning
compressor, when fitted, is driven
independently.
2 Periodically inspect the drivebelt(s) for
fraying, cracks, glazing or other damage. Turn
the engine so that the full length of the belt(s)
can be viewed. Renew belts which are in poor
condition. When twin drivebelts are fitted, both
must be renewed together, even if only one is
damaged.
3 Check the tension of the drivebelt(s) by
pressing firmly with the fingers in the middle of
the longest belt run (engine stopped). Tension
is correct when the belt can be deflected by
10 mm (0.4 in) under firm finger pressure (see
illustration).
4 Renewal and adjustment procedures for
models with power steering are given in
Chapter 11. For other models proceed as
follows.

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6 On models with air conditioning, remove the

compressor drivebelt.
7 Slacken the alternator pivot and adjusting
bolts. Swing the alternator towards the engine
and slip the belt(s) off the pulleys.
8 Fit the new belt(s) over the pulleys. Move
the alternator away from the engine until the
belt tension is correct, then tighten the
alternator adjusting strap and pivot bolts. If it
is necessary to lever against the alternator to
achieve the correct tension, only do so using a
wooden or plastic lever (see illustration).
9 Refit and tension the air conditioning
compressor drivebelt, when applicable.
10 Reconnect the battery. If a new drivebelt
has been fitted, run the engine for a few
minutes, then stop it and recheck the tension.
11 Check the tension of new belts again after
a few hundred miles.

21 Auxiliary drivebelt check

20 Spark plug renewal

19 Hinge and lock check and

lubrication

1•12

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

21.3 Checking drivebelt tension

It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without cross­threading them. To avoid this
possibility, fit a short length of 5/16­inch internal diameter rubber hose over
the end of the spark plug. The flexible
hose acts as a universal joint to help
align the plug with the plug hole.
Should the plug begin to cross-thread,
the hose will slip on the spark plug,
preventing thread damage to the
aluminium cylinder head. Remove the
rubber hose, and tighten the plug to the
specified torque using the spark plug
socket and a torque wrench. Fit the
remaining spark plugs in the same
manner.

DOHC engines

12 On this engine, the coolant/alternator
drivebelt also drives the power steering pump
and (where applicable) the air conditioning
compressor. The drivebelt tension is set by an
automatic tensioner assembly.
13 The condition of the drivebelt should be
checked as described above.
14 An idea of the amount of wear which has
taken place on the belt can be gained from the
position of indicator mark (A) on the mounting
bracket in relation to the block (B) on the
tensioner arm (see illustration). When the belt
is new the mark should be aligned with the top
of the tensioner block. As the belt wears, the
tensioner arm moves and the block on the arm
will move slowly up in relation to the mark on
the bracket. When the mark aligns with the
bottom of the tensioner arm block the belt can
be regarded as worn and should be replaced

(see illustration).
15 To renew the belt, turn the automatic

tensioner arm clockwise, using a 17 mm
socket and a wrench on the boss in the centre
of the pulley, and slide the belt from the
pulleys, then slowly release the tensioner.
16 To fit a new belt, rotate the tensioner
clockwise as during removal, then slide the
belt over the pulleys. With the belt correctly
located, slowly release the tensioner; the
tensioner will automatically set the correct
drivebelt tension.

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual.

1 The battery fitted as original equipment is
“maintenance-free”, and requires no
maintenance apart from having the case kept
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
2 To clean the battery terminals disconnect
them, after having first removed the cover
(later models) - negative earth first. Use a wire
brush or abrasive paper to clean the terminals.
Bad corrosion should be treated with a
solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied with
an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution get
inside the battery.

3 Coat the battery terminals with petroleum
jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound
before reconnecting them. Reconnect and
tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by
the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.
4 Keep the top of the battery clean and dry.
Periodically inspect the battery tray for
corrosion, and make good as necessary.
5 Further information on the battery, charging
and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5,
and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.

SOHC engines

1 Valve clearances are checked with the
engine cold.

2 On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.
3 On fuel-injection models, remove the

bracing strap which connects the inlet
manifold to the right-hand side of the engine.
4 On all models, identify the HT leads and
disconnect them from the spark plugs. Unclip
the leads from the rocker cover.
5 Although not essential, it will make the
engine easier to turn if the spark plugs are
removed.
6 Remove the ten bolts which secure the
rocker cover, noting the location of the
different shapes of reinforcing plates. Remove
the cover and gasket.

7 One of the cam lobes will be seen to be
pointing upwards. Measure the clearance
between the base of this cam and the cam
follower, finding the thickness of feeler blade
which gives a firm sliding fit (see illustration).
8 The desired valve clearances are given in
the Specifications. Note that the clearances
for inlet and exhaust valves are different.
Numbering from the front (sprocket) end of the
camshaft, the exhaust valves are 1, 3, 5 and 7,
and the inlet valves 2, 4, 6 and 8.
9 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the ball­pin locknut and screw the ball-pin up or down
until the clearance is correct. Hold the ball-pin
stationary and tighten the locknut (see
illustration). Recheck the clearance after
tightening the locknut in case the ball-pin has
moved.
10 Turn the engine to bring another cam lobe
to the vertical position and repeat the above
procedure. Carry on until all eight valves have
been checked.
11 Access to some of the ball-pins is made
difficult by the carburettor or fuel-injection inlet
manifold. To avoid having to remove the
offending components, double cranked
spanners or cutaway socket spanners can be
used (see illustration).
12 When adjustment is complete, refit the
rocker cover using a new gasket. Make sure
that the dovetail sections of the gasket fit
together correctly.
13 Fit the rocker cover bolts and reinforcing
plates. Tighten the bolts as described in
Chapter 2A Section 44, paragraph 11.

23 Engine valve clearance check

22 Battery terminal check

1•13

1

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

21.14a Water pump/alternator drivebelt

tensioner indicator position - DOHC engine

A Indicator mark B Block

21.14b Water pump/alternator drivebelt

tensioner wear indicator location (arrowed)

- DOHC engine

21.8 Tightening the alternator strap bolt

23.7 Measuring a valve clearance - SOHC
engine

23.9 Adjusting a valve clearance - SOHC
engine

14 Refit the other disturbed components.
15 Run the engine and check that there are

no oil leaks from the rocker cover.

2.8 litre engine

16 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
preliminary steps:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead
b) Remove the throttle mechanism cover, air

cleaner cover, airflow meters and inlet
trunking

c) Remove the HT leads from the spark plugs

and unclip them from the rocker cover

d) Unbolt and remove the rocker covers

17 Although not essential, it will be easier to
turn the engine if the spark plugs are removed.
18 Valve clearances must be adjusted with
the engine cold (less than 40°C/104°F).
19 Turn the engine, using a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, until the crankshaft
pulley timing mark is aligned with the TDC
(zero) pointer on the timing cover and the
valves of No 5 cylinder are overlapping, ie the
exhaust valve is closing and the inlet valve is
opening. (No 5 cylinder is the middle one on
the left-hand bank - left being the vehicle’s
left, not necessarily to operator’s.) (see

illustration).
20 When the valves of No 5 cylinder are in

this position, check the valve clearances of
No1 cylinder by inserting a feeler blade of the
specified thickness between the rocker arm
and the valve stem. Adjust the clearance, if
necessary, by turning the rocker arm adjusting

screw until the specified clearance is obtained
(see illustration). Inlet and exhaust valve are
different.
21 If the engine is now rotated one-third of a
turn clockwise at the crankshaft, the valves of
No 3 cylinder will be overlapping and the
valves of No4 cylinder can be checked and
adjusted.
22 Proceed to adjust the clearances
according to the firing order as follows. The
cylinders are numbered (see illustration) and
the valves are listed in their correct order,
working from the front of the engine:

Valves overlapping Valves to adjust

No 5 cylinder No 1 cylinder (in, ex)
No 3 cylinder No 4 cylinder (in, ex)
No 6 cylinder No 2 cylinder (in, ex)
No 1 cylinder No 5 cylinder (ex, in)
No 4 cylinder No 3 cylinder (ex, in)
No 2 cylinder No 6 cylinder (ex, in)

23 Refit the rocker covers, using new gaskets
if necessary. Tighten the rocker cover bolts to
the specified torque.
24 If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the other
displaced components.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

25 The operation for these engines is
essentially as described for the 2.8 litre
engine, noting that the valve arrangement is
changed (see illustrations).

Using a spanner of the appropriate size,
check each manifold securing nut in turn
whilst referring to the appropriate Sections in
Chapter 2C for tightening sequences and
torque loading figures.

Remove the radiator grille and clean any
leaves, insects etc. from the condenser coil
and fins. Be very careful not to damage the
condenser fins: use a soft brush, or a
compressed air jet, along (not across) the fins

(see illustration).

25 Air conditioner condenser

check

24 Engine inlet manifold security

check - V6 only

1•14

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

23.19 Inlet and exhaust valve location -

2.8 litre V6 engine

23.20 Adjusting a valve clearance ­V6 engine

23.11 Cutaway socket spanner

23.25a Valve arrangement for RH cylinder
head - 2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

Upper arrow points to front of engine

23.25b Valve arrangement for LH cylinder
head - 2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

Upper arrow points to front of engine

23.22 Cylinder numbering and HT lead
connections - V6 engine

White arrow points to front of engine

25.1 Cleaning the air conditioner
condenser fins

1 Remove the radiator grille being careful not
to damage the condenser fins.
2 Check the refrigerant charge as follows. The
engine should be cold and the ambient
temperature should be between 18° and 25°C
(64° and 77°F).
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Observe
the refrigerant sight glass (see illustration)
and have an assistant switch on the air
conditioning to fan speed III. A few bubbles
should be seen in the sight glass as the
system starts up, but all bubbles should
disappear within 10 seconds. Persistent
bubbles, or no bubbles at all, mean that the
refrigerant charge is low. Switch off the
system immediately if the charge is low and do
not use it again until it has been recharged.
4 Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and
unions for security and good condition. Refit
the radiator grille.
5 The air conditioning system will lose a
proportion of its charge through normal
seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year ­so it is as well to regard periodic recharging as
a maintenance operation.

1 Check the final drive oil level as follows.
2 Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at

front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see
“Jacking”). The vehicle must be level.
3 Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level
plug (see illustration). Unscrew the plug with
a hexagon key. Using a piece of bent wire as
a dipstick, check that the oil is no more than
10 mm (0.4 in) below the plug hole.
4 If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill.
Frequent need for topping-up can only be due
to leaks, which should be rectified.
5 When the level is correct, refit the filler/level
plug and tighten it.
6 There is no requirement for periodic oil
changing, and no drain plug is provided.

Lubricate the transmission selector and
kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol
lubricant.

1 Examine all steering and suspension
components for wear and damage. Pay
particular attention to dust covers and gaiters,
which if renewed promptly when damaged can
save further damage to the component
protected.
2 At the same intervals, check the front
suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by
levering up the arms (see illustration).
Balljoint free movement must not exceed

0.5 mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints
can be checked in a similar manner, or by
observing them whilst an assistant rocks the
steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm
balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must
be renewed.
3 Check the shock absorbers by bouncing the
vehicle up and down at each corner in turn.
When released, it should come to rest within
one complete oscillation. Continued
movement, or squeaking and groaning noises
from the shock absorber suggests that
renewal is required.

Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at

front and rear on ramps or axle stands.

Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters.
Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds
and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must be
renewed without delay to avoid damage
occurring to the joint itself

Check the tightness of the final drive
mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange
screws.

1 Except on vehicles with a wax-based
underbody protective coating, have the whole
of the underframe of the vehicle steam­cleaned, engine compartment included, so
that a thorough inspection can be carried out
to see what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary.
2 Steam-cleaning is available at many
garages, and is necessary for the removal of
the accumulation of oily grime, which
sometimes is allowed to become thick in
certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-applied;
the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
3 After cleaning, position the vehicle over a
pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle
stands.
4 Using a strong light, work around the
underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for
corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer to
Chapter 12 for details of repair.

Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
and inspect the hose and pipe unions for
leaks. Renew any defective item without delay.

On 2.0 litre engines, good electrical contact
between the carburettor stepper motor
plunger and the adjusting screw is essential to
maintain a regular idle speed.

Clean the plunger and adjusting screw
contact faces with abrasive paper followed by
switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is
available from electronic component shops.

33 Idle speed linkage clean

32 Brake pipe and hose check

31 Underbody inspection

30 Driveshaft check

29 Steering and suspension

security check

28 Automatic transmission

selector linkage lubrication

27 Final drive oil level check

26 Air conditioner refrigerant

charge check

1•15

1

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

27.3 Final drive oil filler/level plug (arrowed)

29.2 Checking a front suspension lower
arm balljoint

26.3 Refrigerant sight glass (arrowed)

Instruments and electrical
equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine,
clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine, clutch and transmission.
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
9 Where applicable, check that the clutch
action is smooth and progressive, that the
drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal
travel is not excessive. Also listen for any
noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
10 Check that all gears can be engaged
smoothly, without noise, and that the gear
lever action is not abnormally vague or
“notchy”.

Check the operation and
performance of the braking system

11 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels do
not lock prematurely when braking hard.
12 Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
13 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
14 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake
pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine
to run for at least two minutes, and then
switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed
now, it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After
about four or five applications, no further
hissing should be heard, and the pedal should
feel considerably firmer.

1 The power steering fluid dipstick is
incorporated in the reservoir filler cap. The
reservoir is mounted on the pump. Observe
scrupulous cleanliness when checking the
level or topping-up.
2 The system should be at operating
temperature and the engine switched off.
Wipe clean around the reservoir filler cap.
Unscrew the cap, withdraw the dipstick and
wipe it with a clean lint-free rag. Reinsert the
dipstick, screw the cap home, then unscrew it
again and read the level on the dipstick. It
should be up to the MAX or upper HOT mark
(depending on the dipstick markings) (see

illustration).
3 Top-up if necessary with clean fluid of the

specified type. Check for leaks if topping-up is
frequently required.
4 If the level is checked cold, use the MIN or
FULL COLD mark on the dipstick for reference.
Recheck the level at operating temperature.

On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner cover and check that the automatic
choke is opening fully when the engine is hot.

Run the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Stop the engine and
immediately restart it. If the engine fails to start
cleanly and immediately then refer to either
Chapters 4 or 5 and check fuel feed
adjustments.

37 Hot starting check

36 Automatic choke check

35 Power steering fluid level

check

34 Road test

Carburettor models

SOHC engines

1 Remove the screws from the air cleaner
cover (see illustration).
2 Release the spring clips (when fitted), then
lift off the cover (see illustration).
3 Lift out the air cleaner element (see
illustration). Wipe clean inside the air cleaner

housing, but be careful not to sweep dirt into
the carburettor throat.
4 Where it is necessary to remove the air
cleaner body for cleaning or repair, first
disconnect the cold air inlet trunking from the
spout (see illustration).

5 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet
manifold, and the hot air trunking from the
spout or exhaust manifold shroud (see

illustration).

6 Remove the remaining screw which secures

the air cleaner to the valve cover, then lift off
the air cleaner.

7 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

38 Air cleaner filter element

renewal

1•16

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

35.2 Removing the power steering fluid
dipstick

38.2 Releasing an air cleaner cover clip
(carburettor model)

38.1 Removing an air cleaner cover screw
(carburettor model)

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

DOHC engine

8 Proceed as described above whilst noting

that the camshaft cover breather hose must
be disconnected before the air cleaner can be
removed.

Fuel-injection models

SOHC and V6 engines

9 Release the four spring clips which secure
the air cleaner cover (see illustration).
10 Lift off the cover and move it aside. It is

attached to the vane airflow meter(s): be
careful not to strain the air trunking or meter
wiring. To remove the cover completely,
disconnect the meter(s) or unbolt the cover

(see illustration).
11 Remove the air cleaner element, noting

which way up it is fitted (see illustration).
Wipe clean inside the air cleaner body.
12 Where it is necessary to remove the air
cleaner body for cleaning or repair, remove the
three securing nuts which are accessible from
inside the left-hand wheel arch. Disengage the
body from the air pick-up hose and remove it.

13 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

DOHC engine

14 To renew the element, disconnect the

battery negative lead.
15 Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve at the front of the plenum
chamber.
16 Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet
hose from the air inlet tubing.
17 Unscrew the securing nut, and release the

air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel (see illustration).
18 Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
19 Lift out the air cleaner element, then wipe
the inside of the air cleaner lid and casing
clean (see illustration).
20 Fit the new element with the sealing lip
uppermost.

21 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
22 To remove and refit the air cleaner

housing, refer to paragraph 12.
23 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.

1 Before disturbing any part of the ignition
system, disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Identify and clearly mark all HT leads before
disconnecting them from the spark plugs.

All engines except DOHC

3 On V6 models, remove the screening can lid
(see illustration).
4 Remove the coil-to-distributor HT lead

(sometimes called the king lead) by
disconnecting it from the coil tower and the
distributor cap.

5 Disconnect the other HT leads from the

39 Ignition system component

check

1•17

1

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

38.4 Disconnecting the air cleaner cold air
inlet trunking (carburettor model)

38.5 Air cleaner hot air trunking and

manifold shroud (carburettor model)

38.3 Removing the air cleaner element
(carburettor model)

38.17 Air intake tube retaining nut
(fuel-injection DOHC)

38.19 Removing the air cleaner element
(fuel-injection DOHC)

38.11 Removing the air cleaner element
(fuel-injection SOHC and V6)

38.9 Air cleaner cover spring clip
(fuel-injection SOHC and V6)

38.10 Airflow meter to cover bolts

(arrowed) (fuel-injection SOHC and V6)

distributor cap, making a sketch if necessary
so that they can be reconnected to the same
terminals. Remove the leads.
6 On V6 models, remove the distributor
screening can (see illustration).
7 Release the two clips or screws which
secure the distributor cap. Remove the cap

(see illustration).
8 Note that if the distributor cap is secured by

clips, the engine must not be cranked with the
cap removed. This is because it is possible for
a spring clip to foul the rotating parts of the
distributor and cause damage.
9 Remove the rotor arm. It may simply pull off,
or it may be secured by two screws (see
illustration). The rotor arm tips may be coated
with silicone grease - if so, do not rub it off.
10 Clean the HT leads and distributor cap

with a dry cloth. Scrape any corrosion or other
deposits from the connectors and terminals.
Also clean the coil tower.
11 Renew the HT leads if they are cracked,
burnt or otherwise damaged. If a multi-meter
is available, measure the resistance of the
leads. The desired value is given in the
Specifications of Chapter 5.
12 Renew the distributor cap if it is cracked
or badly burnt inside, or if there is evidence of
“tracking” (black lines marking the path of HT
leakage). If there is a carbon brush at the
centre of the cap, make sure that it moves
freely, and is not excessively worn.
13 Clean the metal track of the rotor arm with
abrasive paper (but see paragraph 9 first).
Renew the arm if it is cracked or badly burnt.
14 Commence reassembly by fitting the rotor

arm to the distributor. It is positively located by
a notch or shaped pegs so it cannot be fitted
the wrong way round. Tighten the securing
screws, when applicable.
15 Refit the distributor cap and secure it with
the clips or screws.

16 On V6 models, refit the screening can.
17 Reconnect the HT leads to the distributor

cap, making sure that they are correctly fitted.
The No 1 connector on the cap is marked (see

illustration).
18 On V6 models, refit the screening can lid.
19 Reconnect the HT leads to the spark plugs

and coil.
20 Reconnect the battery and run the engine.

DOHC engines

21 Unclip the lower section of the distributor
shield from the upper section, then unscrew
the two securing nuts, and withdraw the upper
section of the shield from the studs on the
upper timing chain cover (see illustrations).
22 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs by pulling on the connectors, not the
leads. Similarly, disconnect the HT lead from
the coil, and release it from the clip on the
timing chain cover.
23 Using a suitable Torx key or socket,
unscrew the two distributor cap securing
screws, then lift off the cap.
24 The rotor arm is a push-fit on the end of
the rotor shaft (see illustration).
25 If desired, the rotor housing can be pulled
from the timing chain cover.
26 Inspect all components as described in

1•18

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

39.6 Removing a distributor screening can

- V6 engine

39.7 Removing a distributor cap39.3 Removing a distributor can screening

lid - V6 engine

39.21b . . . and the upper section of the
distributor shield - DOHC engine

39.24 Removing the distributor cap and
rotor arm - DOHC engine

39.21a Unclipping the lower section . . .

39.9 Removing a rotor arm 39.17 HT lead identification at distributor
cap - V6 engine

the previous sub Section.
27 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the rotor arm is pushed fully home on the
rotor shaft. Make sure that the HT leads are
fitted to their correct cylinders. Note that the
rotor arm will only fit in one position.

Note: A brake band torque wrench - Ford tool
No 17-005, or equivalent - will be required for
this job.

1 Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
2 Disconnect the downshift (kickdown) cable

from the transmission when so equipped.
3 Release the locknuts on the two brake band
adjuster screws. Back off each adjuster screw
a couple of turns (see illustration).
4 Using the torque wrench, tighten one
adjusting screw to 13 Nm (10 lbf ft). Remove
the torque wrench and back off the adjuster
screw exactly two full turns from this position,
then hold the screw and tighten the locknut.

5 Repeat the operations on the other adjuster.
6 Reconnect the downshift cable, when

applicable, then lower the vehicle.

OHC engines

1 Fitted to all fuel-injected models, the filter
can be renewed as follows. Disconnect the
battery negative lead.

2 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
3 Place a drain pan under the fuel filter. Take

adequate fire precautions.
4 Wipe clean the area around the filter inlet
and outlet unions, then disconnect them (see

illustration). Caution: Fuel under pressure
may spray out as the unions are slackened.

5 Slacken the filter clamp bolt and withdraw
the filter from the clamp. Dispose of the filter
safely, remember it is full of fuel.
6 Fit the new filter into the clamp,observing
the arrows on the filter indicating the direction
of fuel flow. If there is a plastic band or sleeve
on the filter, position the clamp over the sleeve
to prevent chafing. Tighten the clamp bolt.
7 Refit the inlet and outlet unions, using new
sealing washers. Tighten the union bolts.
8 Reconnect the battery. Have an assistant

switch the ignition on and off a few times to
pressurise the system; watch the filter for
leakage as this is done.
9 Lower the vehicle on completion.

V6 engines

10 This operation is essentially the same as
described above, noting that the fuel system
should first be depressurised, see Chapter 4,
Section 28.
11 Once the new filter has been installed,
switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
system then check the filter unions for leaks.

Renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve
by pulling it from the oil separator and
loosening the hose clip (see illustration). Fit
the new valve, tighten the clip, and insert it
into the oil separator grommet.

Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.

42 Crankcase ventilation vent

valve renewal

41 Fuel filter renewal

40 Automatic transmission

brake band adjustment

1•19

1

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

41.4 Fuel filter outlet union (arrowed) ­OHC engine

42.1 Pulling the vent valve from the oil
separator - SOHC engine

40.3 Brake band adjuster screw (A) and
locknut (B)

If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Sections of Chapter 10.

1 An assistant and bleeding equipment will be
needed. A considerable quantity of hydraulic
fluid will be required - probably about 2 litres
(nearly half a gallon).

2 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle and remove
the front wheels.

3 Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
4 Open both front bleed screws one full turn.

Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
the free end of each tube in a jar.
5 Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
6 When air emerges from both bleed screws,
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
without disconnecting it and remove the
inboard brake pad.
7 Depress the caliper piston, using a purpose­made tool or a blunt item such as a tyre lever,
to force more fluid out of the caliper. Hold the

piston depressed and have the assistant
pump the pedal until air emerges from the
bleed screw again.
8 Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
9 Repeat the purging operation on the right­hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the
bleed screw yet.
10 Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid.
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand caliper
at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the level of the
bleed screw.
11 Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.

44 Brake hydraulic fluid renewal

43 Brake hydraulic system seal

and hose renewal

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

12 Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear of
the piston. Have the assistant depress the
brake pedal gently in order to move the
caliper piston out.
13 With the pedal held depressed, slacken
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
can now be released.
14 Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-

hand brake pad and caliper.
15 Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
pad again. Carry out the operations described
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
caliper.
16 Bleed the rear brakes as described in
Chapter 10.
17 Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts.
18 Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
up to the discs, then make a final check of the

hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
reservoir cap.

Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
recommended as a precautionary measure.
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Sections 13 and 45
for the full renewal procedure.

45 Camshaft drivebelt renewal -

SOHC engines

1 Before proceeding, note the precautions
given in Chapter 3, Section 1.

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 Remove the expansion tank cap. Take

precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.
4 Place a drain pan of adequate capacity
beneath the radiator drain plug. Unscrew the
plug, without removing it, and allow the
coolant to drain (see illustration). On OHC
engines, release the hose clip and remove the
rubber cap from the bleed spigot on top of the
thermostat housing (see illustration). On V6
engines, remove the bleed screw (if fitted)
from the radiator top hose.
5 Place another drain pan below the cylinder
block drain plug, which is located on the right­hand side of the engine (except DOHC engine
which has no plug). Remove the drain plug
and allow the coolant to drain from the block.
6 Dispose of the old coolant safely, or keep it
in a covered container if it is to be re-used.

7 Flushing should not be necessary unless
periodic renewal of the coolant has been
neglected, or unless plain water has been
used as coolant. In either case the coolant will
appear rusty and dark in colour. Flushing is
then required and should be carried out as
follows.
8 Drain the system and disconnect the top
hose from the radiator. Insert a garden hose
into the radiator and run water into the radiator
until it flows clear from the drain plug.
9 Run the hose into the expansion tank (OHC
engines) or into the radiator top hose (V6
engines) until clean water comes out of the
cylinder block drain plug. On DOHC engines
there is no drain plug in the cylinder block, so
the engine should be flushed until water runs
clear from the radiator bottom hose.
10 If, after a reasonable period the water still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent.
11 Flush the heater matrix by disconnecting
one of the heater hoses and running the hose
into that.
12 In severe cases of contamination the
radiator should be removed, inverted and

flushed in the reverse direction to normal flow,
ie with the water going in at the bottom and
out at the top. Shake the radiator gently while
doing this to dislodge any deposits.
13 Refit any hoses which were disturbed,
making sure that they and their clips are in
good condition. Refit the cylinder block drain
plug and tighten the radiator drain plug.
14 On OHC engines, make sure that the
bleed spigot cap is still removed (not DOHC).
On V6 engines, check, if applicable, that the
bleed screw is still removed.
15 Pour coolant in through the expansion
tank filler hole until the level is up to the MAX
line.
16 Refit the bleed spigot cap or screw when
coolant starts to emerge from the spigot.
Tighten the clip.
17 Squeeze the radiator hoses to help
disperse airlocks. Top-up the coolant further if
necessary, then refit and tighten the expansion
tank cap.
18 Run the engine up to operating
temperature, checking for coolant leaks. Stop
the engine and allow it to cool, then top-up the
coolant again to the MAX mark if necessary.

46 Engine coolant renewal

1•20

Every 2 years

46.4b Releasing the bleed spigot cap ­OHC engine

46.4a Radiator drain plug (arrowed) ­OHC engine

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

Engine

Oil filter type (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C102

Valve clearances (cold):

SOHC:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.03 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

V6:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 mm (0.014 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 mm (0.016 in)

Cooling system

Specific gravity at 45 to 50% antifreeze concentration . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.069 to 1.077

Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

Fuel system

Air filter element type:

1.8 litre (carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W118

2.0 litre (carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W152

2.0 litre and V6 (injection) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U507

Fuel filter type:

All models (injection) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204

Ignition system

Spark plugs:

1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RF7YCC or RF7YC

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN7YCC or RN7YC

2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

2.9 litre V6 with catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC

Spark plug electrode gap*:

Champion RF7YCC and RN7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

Champion RF7YC and RN7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm

Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm

Champion RS9YCC and RS9YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Ignition HT lead set:

Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 k ohms maximum per lead

Type:

1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-09 boxed set

1.8 and 2.0 litre (Male distributor fitting) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-10 boxed set

*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be
fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Brakes

Brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)

Tyres

Tyre sizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 SR/TR/HR 14, 185/70 HR/TR/VR 14, 195/65 HR 15, 205/60

VR 15

Tyre pressures: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front Rear

Normal load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in

2

) 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 lbf/in

2

) 2.9 bar (42 lbf/in2)

Note: Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier
for correct pressures if necessary.

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 16 to 21

Engine block coolant drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18

Spark plugs:

1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to28 15 to 21

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 21 11 to 15

2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 40 22 to 30

2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 21 11 to 15

Manual gearbox filler/level and drain plugs:

N9 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 17 to 20

MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30

Brake caliper slide bolts:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 to 35 23 to 26

Roadwheel bolts (steel and alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 100 52 to 74

1•21

1

Specifications

1•22

Notes

Chapter 2 Part A:

1.8 & 2.0 litre SOHC engines

Ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Auxiliary shaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Auxiliary shaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Auxiliary shaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Camshaft and cam followers - examination and renovation . . . . . .30

Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .27

Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .28

Cylinder head - decarbonising, valve grinding and renovation . . . .34

Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Engine and gearbox - reconnection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Engine - refitting without gearbox/transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

Engine - refitting with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Engine - removal leaving gearbox/transmission in vehicle . . . . . . . .5

Engine - removal with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Engine - separation from manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Flywheel ring gear - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .2

Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Methods of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Oil pump - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . .29

Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Timing belt - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

General 1.8 HC E 2.0 HC 2.0 HC EFi

Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REC NEL NRA

Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.20 (3.39) 90.82 (3.58) 90.82 (3.58)

Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03)

Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 (109.6) 1993 (121.6) 1993 (121.6)

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1 9.2:1 9.2:1

Compression pressure at cranking speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar (160 to 189 lbf/in2)

Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 @ 5400 77 @ 5200 85 @ 5500

Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 @ 3500 157 @ 4000 160 @ 4000

Lubrication system

Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants and fluids”

Oil capacity (drain and refill, including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.75 litres (6.6 pints) approx

Oil pressure (SAE 10W/30 oil at 80°C/176°F):

At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar

Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 4.7 bar

Oil pressure warning light switch setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 bar

2A•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

2A

2A•2 SOHC engines

Oil pump

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bi-rotor

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . From auxiliary shaft

Operating clearances:

Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.30 mm

Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.20 mm

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.10 mm

Cylinder block 1.8 (REC) 2.0 (NEL and NRA)

Cast identification mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18S 20S

Bore diameter:

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.180 to 86.190 mm 90.800 to 90.810 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.190 to 86.200 mm 90.810 to 90.820 mm

Standard grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.200 to 86.210 mm 90.820 to 90.830 mm

Standard grade 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.210 to 86.220 mm 90.830 to 90.840 mm

Oversize grade 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.690 to 86.700 mm 91.310 to 91.320 mm

Oversize grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.700 to 86.710 mm 91.320 to 91.330 mm

Oversize grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.710 to 86.720 mm 91.330 to 91.340 mm

Standard service grade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not stated 90.830 to 90.840 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not stated 91.330 to 91.340 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not stated 91.830 to 91.840 mm

Crankshaft

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.970 to 56.990 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.720 to 56.740 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.470 to 56.490 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.220 to 56.240 mm

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.970 to 55.990 mm

Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.064 mm

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.980 to 52.000 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.730 to 51.750 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.480 to 51.500 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.230 to 51.250 mm

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.980 to 51.000 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.30 to 2.35 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.50 to 2.55 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 to 0.28 mm

Connecting rods

Big-end parent bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.000 to 55.020 mm

Small-end bush internal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.964 to 23.976 mm

Pistons 1.8 (REC) 2.0 (NEL and NRA)

Diameter:

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.145 to 86.155 mm 90.765 to 90.775 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.155 to 86.165 mm 90.775 to 90.785 mm

Standard grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.165 to 86.175 mm 90.785 to 90.795 mm

Standard grade 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.175 to 86.185 mm 90.795 to 90.805 mm

Service standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.170 to 86.195 mm 90.790 to 90.815 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.670 to 86.695 mm 91.290 to 91.315 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.170 to 87.195 mm 91.790 to 91.815 mm

Clearance in bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.050 mm 0.015 to 0.050 mm

Piston ring end gaps:

Top and centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 mm 0.4 to 0.6 mm

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 1.4 mm 0.4 to 1.4 mm

Gudgeon pins

Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.0 to 68.8 mm

Diameter:

Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.994 to 23.997 mm

Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.997 to 24.000 mm

Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24.000 to 24.003 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.008 to 0.014 mm

Interference in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.018 to 0.039 mm

SOHC engines 2A•3

2A

Cylinder head

Identification mark:

1.8 (REC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

2.0 (NEL and NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44° 30’ to 45° 00’

Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.0 mm

Valve guide bore:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.063 to 8.088 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.263 to 8.288 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.463 to 8.488 mm

Camshaft bearing parent bores:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.072 to 45.102 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.692 to 47.722 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.072 to 48.102 mm

Auxiliary shaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.204 mm

Camshaft

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Toothed belt

Thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.98 to 4.01 mm

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.104 to 0.204 mm

Cam lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3323 mm

Cam length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.26 to 36.60 mm

Valve timing:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18° ATDC

Bearing journal diameter:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.987 to 42.013 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.607 to 44.633 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.987 to 45.013 mm

Bearing bush internal diameter:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.035 to 42.055 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.655 to 44.675 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.035 to 45.055 mm

Valve clearances (cold)

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.03 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

Inlet valves

Length:

1.8 (REC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.75 to 112.75 mm

2.0 (NEL and NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110.65 to 111.65 mm

Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.80 to 42.20 mm

Stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm

Stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.063 mm

Exhaust valves

Length:

1.8 (REC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.15 to 112.15 mm

2.0 (NEL) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110.05 to 111.05 mm

2.0 (NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110.75 to 111.75 mm

Head diameter:

1.8 (REL) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.00 to 34.40 mm

2.0 (NEL and NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.80 to 36.20 mm

Stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.999 to 8.017 mm

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm

Stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.046 to 0.089 mm

Valve springs

Free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.0 mm

Inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.45 to 23.95 mm

Wire diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.87 to 3.93 mm

Number of turns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.7

The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line, single
overhead camshaft type (see illustration). It is
mounted longitudinally at the front of the car.
Three versions are available: 1.8 litre
carburettor, 2.0 litre carburettor and 2.0 litre
fuel-injection.

The crankshaft incorporates five main
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
centre main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.

The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt
and operates the slightly angled valve via cam
followers which pivot on ball-pins.

The auxiliary shaft, which is also driven by
the toothed belt, drives the distributor, oil
pump and on some models the fuel pump.

1 General information

2A•4 SOHC engines

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 to 102 65 to 75

Big-end bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 47 30 to 35

Crankshaft pulley bolt:

1.8 (REC) and 2.0 (NEL) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 115 81 to 85

2.0 (NRA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 to 130 85 to 96

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 50 33 to 37

Auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 50 33 to 37

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 to 70 47 to 52

Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

Oil pump cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

Sump bolts (see text):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 to 2 0.7 to 1.5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Stage 3 (after 20 minutes running) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 16 to 21

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 15 9 to 11

Valve adjustment ball-pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 55 37 to 41

Cylinder head bolts (see text):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 75 52 to 55

Stage 3 (after 5 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°

Rocker cover bolts (see text):

Bolts 1 to 6 - Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Bolts 7 and 8 - Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 to 3 1.5 to 2

Bolts 9 and 10 - Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Bolts 7 and 8 - Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Front cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 17 10 to 13

Timing belt tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

Oil pump pick-up pipe:

To pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 14 8 to 10

To block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

Engine mounting to crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 51 30 to 38

1.1 Exploded view of the SOHC engine

1 Timing cover
2 Cam follower
3 Retaining spring clip
4 Crankshaft front oil seal housing
5 Auxiliary shaft front cover
6 Thrust plate
7 Auxiliary shaft
8 Thrust plate
9 Vent valve
10 Oil separator
11 Crankshaft rear oil seal
12 Thrust washer

The cylinder head is of crossflow design
with the inlet manifold mounted on the left­hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
on the right-hand side.

Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full­flow filter into the engine oil galleries where it
is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and
auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft. The undersides of the pistons are
supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends.
The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied
with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The
camshaft and cam followers are supplied with
oil via a drilled spray tube from the centre
camshaft bearing.

A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases
are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil
separator and on carburettor models a control
valve.

The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine, although the
work may be easier and quicker with the
engine removed:

a) Removal and refitting of the cylinder head
b) Removal and refitting of the camshaft

(after removing the cylinder head)

c) Removal and refitting of the timing belt

and sprockets

d) Removal and refitting of the sump and oil

pump

e) Removal and refitting of the pistons,

connecting rods and big-end bearings
f) Renewal of the engine mountings
g) Renewal of the crankshaft oil seals
h) Removal and refitting of the auxiliary shaft
j)Removal and refitting of the flywheel

The engine must be removed from the

vehicle for the following operations:

a) Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b) Removal and refitting of the crankshaft

The engine may be lifted out either on its
own or together with the gearbox. Unless work
is also necessary on the gearbox it is
recommended that the engine is removed on
its own. Where automatic transmission is
fitted, the engine should be removed on its
own owing to the additional weight. If the
engine and gearbox are removed together,
they will have to be tilted at a very steep angle;
make sure that the range of the lifting tackle is
adequate.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the bonnet.
3 On carburettor models, remove the air

cleaner. On fuel-injection models, remove the
air cleaner cover, vane airflow meter and air
inlet trunking.

4 If a splash guard is fitted, remove it.
5 Release the securing clips and bolts and

remove the upper half of the fan shroud. On
carburettor models remove the lower half of
the shroud too.

6 Drain the cooling system.
7 Disconnect the radiator top and bottom

hoses from the thermostat housing and water
pump. Disconnect the top hose spur from the
expansion tank and unclip it.
8 Disconnect the heater hoses from the water
pump and from the inlet manifold or automatic
choke housing. Unclip the hoses.
9 On models with power steering, remove the
steering pump.
10 Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
inlet manifold, labelling them if there is any
possibility of confusion.
11 Disconnect the following wiring, as
applicable:

a) Alternator
b) Temperature gauge sender
c) Engine management temperature sensor
d) Distributor
e) Oil pressure switch
f) Automatic choke and thermo-switch
g) Carburettor stepper motor
h) Fuel-injection system sub-harness
j) Inlet manifold heater

12 Disconnect the HT lead from the coil.
13 If an oil level sensor is fitted, remove it
(see illustration).
14 Unbolt the throttle cable bracket,

disconnect the inner cable and move the cable
and bracket aside. Also disconnect the
downshift cable on automatic transmission
models.
15 On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel lines from the fuel pump (mechanised
type) and from the carburettor. Be prepared

for fuel spillage.
16 On fuel-injection models, disconnect the

fuel supply union from the injector rail, and the
fuel return pipe from the fuel pressure

regulator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and

for some spray if the supply side is still
under pressure.
17 Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the

manifold.
18 On models with air conditioning, unbolt
the compressor and move it aside without
straining the flexible hoses.

19 Remove the starter motor.
20 Although not specified by the

manufacturers, the author advises that either
the radiator or the cooling fan be removed, to
reduce the risk of damage.
21 Attach the lifting tackle to the two lifting
eyes on the engine, so that when suspended
the engine will be roughly horizontal. Take the
weight of the engine.
22 Remove the single nut on each side which
secures each engine bearer to its mounting.
23 Working under the vehicle, remove the
bracing strap which connects the engine and
transmission. Unbolt the adapter plate from
the bottom of the transmission bellhousing.
24 On automatic transmission models, unbolt
the torque converter from the driveplate.
25 Remove the engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
Note the location of the battery earth strap.
26 Support the transmission, preferably with
a trolley jack.
27 Check that nothing has been overlooked,
then raise the engine and draw it forwards
clear of the transmission input shaft. Do not
allow the weight of the engine to hang on the
shaft, and do not lift the transmission by it.
28 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the torque converter stays engaged
with the oil pump in the transmission as the
engine is withdrawn,
29 Lift the engine out of the engine bay and
take it to the bench.

1 Engine removal with automatic transmission
is not recommended.
2 Proceed as in the previous Section,
paragraphs 1 to 18.
3 Disconnect the wiring from the starter
motor, and release the battery earth cable
from its bellhousing bolt.

4 Remove the radiator.
5 Remove the propeller shaft.
6 Disconnect and unclip the reversing light

switch and speedometer sender unit wiring.

7 Disconnect the clutch cable.
8 Unbolt the anti-roll bar mounting brackets

and lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible.
9 From inside the vehicle remove the gear
lever.

10 Drain the engine oil.
11 Unhook the exhaust system from its

mounting on the gearbox crossmember. Either
support the system or remove it completely.
12 Support the gearbox, preferably with a
trolley jack, then unbolt and remove the
gearbox crossmember. Note the earth strap (if
fitted) under one of the crossmember bolts.
13 Attach lifting tackle to the two lifting eyes
on the engine so that when suspended it will
be at an angle of approximately 45°.

6 Engine - removal with manual

gearbox

5 Engine - removal leaving

gearbox/transmission in vehicle

4 Methods of engine removal

3 Major operations requiring

engine removal

2 Major operations possible with

the engine in the vehicle

SOHC engines 2A•5

2A

5.13 Oil level sensor

14 Take the weight of the engine and remove

the two engine bearer-to-mounting nuts.
15 Lift the engine/transmission, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack. Draw the unit
forwards and lift it out of the engine bay.
16 Temporarily refit the anti-roll bar if the
vehicle is to be moved.

1 With the engine and gearbox on the bench,
remove the starter motor.

2 Remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate.
3 Remove the bracing strap and the

remaining engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
4 With the aid of an assistant draw the
gearbox off the engine. Do not allow the weight
of the gearbox to hang on the input shaft.

1 It is best to mount the engine on a
dismantling stand, but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
have to be stripped down on the floor.
2 Cleanliness is most important, and if the
engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
3 Avoid working with the engine on a concrete
floor, as grit can be a real source of trouble.
4 As parts are removed, clean them in paraffin.
However, do not immerse parts with internal
oilways in paraffin as it is difficult to remove,
usually requiring a high pressure hose.

5 It is advisable to have suitable containers to
hold small items according to their use, as this
will help when reassembling the engine and
also prevent possible losses.
6 Always obtain complete sets of gaskets
when the engine is being dismantled, but
retain the old gaskets with a view of using
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.

7 When possible, refit nuts, bolts and washers
in their location after being removed, as this
helps protect the threads and will also be
helpful when reassembling the engine.
8 Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new parts supplied.
9 A Torx key, size T55, will be needed for
dealing with the cylinder head bolts. A 12­spline key (to fit bolt size M8) will be needed
for the oil pump bolts. Other Torx and 12­spline bolts may be encountered; sets of the
keys required to deal with them are available
from most motor accessory shops and tool
factors.
10 Another tool which is useful, though by no
means essential, is a valve spring compressor
of the type which hooks under the camshaft
(see illustration). As a Ford tool this bears the
number 21-005-A; proprietary versions may
also be available.

Before dismantling the engine into its main
components, the following ancillary
components can be removed. The actual
items removed, and the sequence of removal,
will depend on the work to be done:

Inlet manifold and associated items
Exhaust manifold
Fuel pump (mechanical type) and pushrod
Alternator
Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs
Fan, water pump and thermostat
Oil pressure switch

(see illustration)

Temperature gauge sender

Oil filter and dipstick
Engine bearer arms (see illustration)
Crankcase ventilation components
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket (see

illustration)

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, carry out
the following preliminary operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead
b) Drain the cooling system
c) Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds
d) Disconnect the radiator top hose from the

thermostat housing, and the spur from the
expansion tank

e) Disconnect the wiring from the

temperature gauge sender

f) Remove the distributor cap, HT leads and

spark plugs

2 Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the timing
cover (see illustration). Note the location of
the cover in the special bolt.
3 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top
dead centre) notch on the pulley is aligned
with the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal
housing, and the pointer on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with the indentation on the
cylinder head (see illustrations). Note the
position of the distributor rotor arm, and mark
its contact end in relation to the rim of the
distributor body.

4 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolts. Pivot

10 Cylinder head - removal

9 Ancillary components - removal

8 Engine dismantling - general

information

7 Engine - separation from

manual gearbox

2A•6 SOHC engines

9.1a Engine oil pressure switch (arrowed)

9.1b Removing an engine bearer arm 9.1c Removing the alternator bracket

8.10 This valve spring compressor is used
by hooking it under the camshaft

Clean oilways with nylon pipe
cleaners.

10.2 Removing the timing cover

the tensioner to release the load on the belt
and slip the belt off the camshaft sprocket. Do
not kink the belt, or get oil or grease on it.
5 Remove the ten bolts which secure the
rocker cover, noting the location of the
different shapes of reinforcing plates. Remove
the cover and gasket.
6 Using a Torx key, slacken the cylinder head
bolts half a turn at a time in the reverse of the
tightening sequence.

7 With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder
head from the block. If it is stuck, tap it with a
wooden or plastic mallet to free it. Do not
lever between the head and block, or the
mating surfaces may be damaged. Do not
crank the engine to free the head, as the
pistons may contact the valves.
8 Place the cylinder head on a couple of
wooden blocks so that the protruding valves
are not damaged.

1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
the previous Section.
2 Hold the camshaft with a spanner on the lug
behind the sixth cam. Unscrew and remove
the camshaft sprocket bolt (see illustration).

3 Remove the camshaft sprocket using a
puller if necessary. Remove the backplate

(see illustration).
4 Unscrew the bolts and remove the camshaft
oil supply tube (see illustration).
5 Note how the cam follower retaining spring

clips are fitted, then unhook them from the
cam followers.
6 If the special tool 21-005-A is available,
compress the valve springs in turn and remove
the cam followers, keeping them identified for
location. Alternatively loosen the locknuts and
back off the ball-pins until the cam followers
can be removed (see illustration).
7 Unscrew the bolts and remove the camshaft
thrust plate (see illustration).
8 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
rear of the cylinder head, taking care not to
damage the bearings (see illustration).

9 Prise the oil seal from the front bearing (see
illustration).

11 Camshaft - removal

SOHC engines 2A•7

2A

10.3a Alignment of crankshaft and

camshaft timing marks, and distributor

rotor position, for No 1 firing

10.3b Camshaft sprocket pointer aligned
with the indentation on the cylinder head

11.6 Removing the cam followers

11.2 Removing the camshaft sprocket bolt
and sprocket

11.3 Removing the camshaft sprocket
backplate

11.4 Removing the camshaft oil supply
tube

11.9 Prise out the camshaft bearing oil seal11.7 Removing the camshaft thrust plate 11.8 Removing the camshaft

1 Remove the camshaft as described in the

previous Section. (If tool 21-005-A is available,
leave the camshaft in place until the valves
have been removed).
2 Using a valve spring compressor, compress
each valve spring in turn until the split collets
can be removed. Release the compressor and
remove the cap and spring, keeping them
identified for location (see illustrations).

3 Remove each valve from the cylinder head,
but identify them for location (see illustration).
4 Prise the valve stem oil seals from the tops
of the valve guides (see illustration).
5 If necessary unscrew the cam follower ball­pins from the cylinder head, keeping them
identified for location.
6 If necessary unscrew the bolts and remove
the timing belt tensioner.

7 Remove the thermostat and housing.
8 Remove the temperature gauge sender unit.
9 Remove the manifold studs if wished by

locking two nuts onto each stud in turn and
unscrewing it.

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, carry out
the following preliminary operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead
b) Remove the radiator and disconnect the

hose from the thermostat housing

c) Remove the accessory drivebelt(s)

2 Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the timing
cover. Note the location of the cover in the
special bolt.
3 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt,
turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top
dead centre) notch on the pulley is aligned

with the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal
housing, and the pointer on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with the indentation on the
cylinder head. Note the position of the
distributor rotor arm. Mark the contact end of
the rotor in relation to the rim of the distributor
body.
4 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining
bolts then pivot the tensioner pulley away from
the belt, to obtain maximum drivebelt free play
(see illustration). Hold the tensioner pulley in
this position and securely retighten the
retaining bolts.
5 Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft
sprocket.
6 Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging 5th

gear (manual gearbox), or by removing the
starter motor and jamming the ring gear teeth.
Alternatively, if the pulley has peripheral bolt
holes, screw in a couple of bolts and use a
lever between them to jam it. Do not allow the
crankshaft to turn very far, or piston/valve
contact may occur.
7 Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily,
refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see
illustration). A puller will almost certainly be
required on fuel-injection models.
8 Remove the guide washer from in front of
the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the
timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or
get oil on it if it is to be re-used.
9 Remove the crankshaft sprocket using a
puller if necessary (see illustration).

13 Timing belt and sprockets -

removal

12 Cylinder head - dismantling

2A•8 SOHC engines

12.2a Compressing a valve spring

13.4 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed) 13.7 Using a puller to remove the
crankshaft pulley

12.4 Removing a valve stem oil seal

13.8 Remove the guide washer from in
front of the crankshaft sprocket

12.2b Removing a valve spring and cap

12.3 Removing a valve

If the caps are difficult to
remove do not continue to
tighten the compressor, but

gently tap the top of the tool
with a hammer. Always ensure that the
compressor is held firmly over the cap.

10 Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt
while holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.
11 Remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket using
a puller if necessary (see illustration).
12 Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt while
holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver engaged in one of the grooves.
Alternatively remove the rocker cover and use
a spanner on the camshaft lug.
13 Remove the camshaft sprocket using a
puller if necessary, then remove the backplate.
Note that the oil seal can be removed using a
special removal tool or by using self-tapping
screws and a pair of grips.

1 Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary
shaft sprocket (only) (Section 13).

2 Remove the distributor.
3 Remove the fuel pump and pushrod (not

applicable to models with an electric pump).
4 Unscrew the bolts and remove the auxiliary
shaft front cover (see illustration).
5 Unscrew the cross-head screws, using an
impact screwdriver if necessary, remove the
thrust plate and withdraw the auxiliary shaft
from the block (see illustrations).
6 Cut the front cover gasket along the top of
the crankshaft front oil seal housing and
scrape off the gasket.

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, remove
the clutch or automatic transmission.
2 Prevent the flywheel or driveplate rotating
by jamming the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap to it.
3 Remove the securing bolts and withdraw
the flywheel or driveplate. Do not drop it, it is
heavy.
4 The engine adapter plate (backplate) may
now be withdrawn from the dowels if required

(see illustration).

1 If the engine is out of the vehicle, start at

paragraph 11. If possible, remove the sump
without inverting the engine, so that any
sludge in the bottom of the sump stays there.

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
4 Remove the splash guard, if fitted, and drain

the engine oil.

5 Remove the starter motor.
6 Remove the two nuts which secure the

engine bearers to the engine mountings.
7 Release the steering shaft universal joint
strap bolt to allow for subsequent movement.
8 Free the brake hydraulic pipes from the
clips on the front crossmember.

9 Support the engine, either with conventional
lifting tackle or with a bar positioned across
the engine bay and resting on two wooden
blocks drilled to fit securely on the suspension
turrets. Make sure the support arrangements
are satisfactory, as you will be working
underneath the suspended engine.
10 Take the weight of the engine. Place a jack
under the front crossmember, remove the
crossmember mounting bolts and carefully
lower the jack. Only lower the crossmember
far enough to permit removal of the sump.

11 Remove the 23 bolts retaining the sump.
12 Remove the sump from the cylinder block
(see illustration). If it is stuck, hit it with a soft-

faced mallet, or prise it sideways (not between
the mating faces) with a large screwdriver or
bar.

13 Recover the gaskets and sealing strips.

16 Sump - removal

15 Flywheel/driveplate and

adapter plate - removal

14 Auxiliary shaft - removal

SOHC engines 2A•9

2A

13.9 Removing the crankshaft sprocket 13.11 Removing the auxiliary shaft
sprocket

14.4 Removing the auxiliary shaft front
cover

14.5b Removing the auxiliary shaft14.5a Removing the auxiliary shaft thrust

plate

15.4 Removing the engine adaptor plate
(backplate)

16.12 Removing the sump

1 Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft

sprocket (only).
2 If an oil seal removal tool is available. the oil
seal can be removed at this stage. It may also
be possible to remove the oil seal by drilling
the outer face and using self-tapping screws
and a pair of grips.
3 If the oil seal cannot be removed as
described in paragraph 2, remove the sump.
Also remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
Unbolt the oil seal housing and auxiliary shaft
front cover and remove the gasket. The oil seal
can then be driven out from the inside (see

illustrations).
4 Clean the oil seal seating, then drive in a

new seal using metal tubing or a suitable
socket (see illustration). Make sure that the

sealing lip faces into the engine, and lightly oil
the lip.
5 If applicable fit the oil seal housing and
auxiliary shaft front cover to the block together
with a new gasket and tighten the bolts. Make
sure that the bottom face of the housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the block (see

illustrations). Fit the sump.
6 Refit the timing belt and sprockets.

1 Remove the flywheel or driveplate and the

engine adapter plate (backplate).
2 Using a special removal tool extract the oil
seal (see illustration). However it may be
possible to remove the oil seal by drilling the
outer face and using self-tapping screws and
a pair of grips.

3 Clean the oil seal seating, then drive in a
new seal using a suitable metal tube. Make
sure that the sealing lip faces into the engine,
and lightly oil the lip.
4 Refit the adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.

1 Remove the sump.
2 Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube
and strainer to the block (see illustration).
3 Using a special splined key, unscrew the

bolts and withdraw the oil pump and strainer

(see illustration).
4 Withdraw the hexagon shaped driveshaft

which engages the bottom of the distributor,
noting which way round it is fitted (see

illustration).

19 Oil pump - removal

18 Crankshaft rear oil seal -

renewal

17 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal

2A•10 SOHC engines

17.3a Removing the crankshaft front oil
seal housing

19.2 Unbolting the oil pump pick-up
strainer from the block

19.3 Removing the splined bolts which
secure the oil pump

19.4 Removing the oil pump driveshaft

18.2 Using an oil seal removal tool to
extract the crankshaft rear oil seal

17.3b Driving the oil seal out of the housing

17.5a Oil seal housing and auxiliary shaft
cover gasket in position

17.5b Checking the alignment of the front
oil seal housing

17.4 Using a socket and a hammer to seat
the new seal

See Chapter 1, Section 8.

1 Remove the sump and cylinder head.
2 Check the big-end caps for identification

marks and if necessary use a centre-punch to
identify the caps and connecting rods (see

illustration).
3 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is

at its lowest point, then unscrew the nuts and
tap off the cap. Keep the bearing shells in the
cap and connecting rod.

4 Using the handle of a hammer, push the
piston and connecting rod up the bore and
withdraw from the top of the cylinder block.
Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod

(see illustration).
5 Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 3 and 4

on the No 4 piston and connecting rod, then
turn the crankshaft through half a turn and
repeat the procedure on Nos 2 and 3 pistons
and connecting rods.

1 With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the pistons and connecting rods as
described in the previous Section. (In fact it is
not necessary to push the pistons out of the
bores if no work is to be done on them.)

2 Remove the timing belt and crankshaft
sprocket, and the flywheel or driveplate. Also
remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
3 Unbolt the crankshaft front oil seal housing
and auxiliary shaft front cover and remove the
gasket.

4 Remove the oil pump and strainer.
5 Check the main bearing caps for

identification marks and if necessary use a
centre-punch to identify them (see

illustration).
6 Before removing the crankshaft check that

the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and the thrustwashers (see
illustration). This will indicate whether new
thrustwashers are required or not.
7 Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells
(see illustration). If the thrustwashers are to
be re-used identify them for location.
8 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and
remove the rear oil seal. Remove the
remaining thrustwashers (see illustrations).
9 Extract the bearing shells keeping them
identified for location (see illustration).

1 Unscrew the two nuts which secure the
engine bearers to the tops of the mountings.
Recover the washers (see illustration).
2 Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
Remove the two nuts which secure the

23 Engine mountings - renewal

22 Crankshaft and main

bearings - removal

21 Pistons and connecting rods

- removal

20 Oil filter - renewal

SOHC engines 2A•11

2A

21.2 Big-end cap and connecting rod
identification numbers

21.4 Piston, connecting rod, cap and
bearing shells

22.5 Main bearing cap identification marks

The arrow points to the front of the engine

22.8a Removing the crankshaft

22.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat

22.8b Removing a thrustwasher from the
centre main bearing

22.7 Removing the rear main bearing cap

22.9 Removing the centre main bearing
shell

mountings to the front crossmember. Recover
the washers.
3 Raise the engine with a hoist or a suitable
protected jack until the mountings are free,
then remove them.
4 Fit the new mountings and lower the engine
onto them.
5 Fit the nuts and washers and tighten the
nuts.
6 Lower the vehicle.

Carburettor models

The crankcase ventilation system consists
of the special oil filter cap (containing a steel
wool filter) and an oil separator and vent valve
on the left-hand side of the engine. This is
connected by hose to the inlet manifold. The
system operates according to the vacuum in
the inlet manifold. Air is drawn through the
filler cap, through the crankcase, and then
together with piston blow-by gasses through
the oil separator and vent valve to the inlet
manifold. The blow-by gases are then drawn
into the engine together with the fuel/air
mixture. Refer to Chapter 1 for maintenance of
the system.

Fuel-injection models

This system is closed, consisting of an oil

separator on the left-hand side of the engine
and a hose connecting it to the inlet air
trunking. Because the trunking is not subject
to manifold vacuum, no vent valve is needed.

1 With the engine completely stripped, clean
all the components and examine them for
wear. Each part should be checked, and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described in the following Sections. Renew
main and big end shell bearings as a matter of
course, unless you know that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
2 If in doubt as to whether to renew a
component which is still just serviceable,
consider the time and effort which will be
incurred should it fail at an early date.
Obviously the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.
3 Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and
cylinder head bolts must be renewed because
of the high stresses to which they are
subjected.
4 Take the opportunity to renew the engine
core plugs while they are easily accessible.
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear
the new plugs with sealant and tap them
squarely into position.

1 Unscrew the bolts and remove the oil pump
cover (see illustration).
2 Using feeler blades check that the rotor
clearances are within the limits given in
Specifications (see illustrations). If not,
unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer and
obtain a new unit (see illustration). Fit the
pick-up tube and strainer to the new pump
using a new gasket, and tighten the bolts.
3 If the oil pump is serviceable refit the cover
and tighten the bolts.

1 Examine the bearing surfaces of the
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
a micrometer, check each journal and
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
crankshaft will have to be reground and
undersize bearings fitted.
2 Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
by a suitable engineering works, who will
normally supply the matching undersize main
and big-end shell bearings.

27 Crankshaft and bearings -

examination and renovation

26 Oil pump - examination and

renovation

25 Examination and renovation -

general information

24 Crankcase ventilation system -

general information

2A•12 SOHC engines

23.1 An engine mounting

26.2b Checking the inner-to-outer rotor
clearance

26.2c Checking the oil pump rotor endfloat

26.2d Exploded view of the oil pump

A Body
B Outer rotor
C Inner rotor
D Cover

E Strainer
F Pick-up tube
G Gasket
H Relief valve

26.1 Removing the oil pump cover 26.2a Checking the outer rotor-to-housing
clearance

3 Note that undersize bearings may already

have been fitted, either in production or by a
previous repairer. Check the markings on the
backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt
take them along when buying new ones (see
illustrations). Production undersizes are also
indicated by paint marks as follows:

White line on main bearing cap - parent bore

0.40 mm oversize

Green line on crankshaft front counterweight

- main bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize

Green spot on counterweight - big-end

bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize

4 If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, new
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
main bearings. These are usually supplied
together with the main and big-end bearings
on a reground crankshaft.
5 An accurate method of determining bearing
wear is by the use of Plastigage. The
crankshaft is located in the main bearings (and
big-end bearings if necessary) and the
Plastigage filament located across the journal
which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and
the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified
torque. On removal of the cap the width of the
filaments is checked against a scale which
shows the bearing running clearance. This
clearance is then compared with that given in
the Specifications (see illustration).
6 If the spigot bearing in the rear of the
crankshaft requires renewal extract it with a
suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavy

grease and use a close fitting metal dowel
driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the
new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft
metal drift.

1 The cylinder bores must be examined for
taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by
examining the top of the bores; if these are
worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks
the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is
excessive, the engine will have had a high oil
consumption rate accompanied by blue
smoke from the exhaust.
2 If available, use an inside dial gauge to
measure the bore diameter just below the
ridge and compare it with the diameter at the
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
wear. If the difference is more than 0.152 mm
(0.006 in), the cylinders will normally require
reboring with new oversize pistons fitted.
3 Proprietary oil control rings can be obtained
for fitting to the existing pistons if it is felt that
the degree of wear does not justify a rebore.
However, any improvement brought about by
such rings may be short-lived.
4 If new pistons or piston rings are to be fitted
to old bores, deglaze the bores with abrasive
paper or a “glaze buster” tool. The object is to
produce a light cross-hatch pattern to assist
the new rings to bed in.

5 If there is a ridge at the top of the bore and
new piston rings are being fitted, either the top
piston ring must be stepped (“ridge dodger”
pattern) or the ridge must be removed with a
ridge reamer. If the ridge is left, the piston ring
may hit it and break.
6 Thoroughly examine the crankcase and
cylinder block for cracks and damage and use
a piece of wire to probe all oilways and
waterways to ensure that they are
unobstructed.

1 Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring and
scratches. Check the connecting rods for wear
and damage. The connecting rods carry a
letter indicating their weight class; all the rods
fitted to one engine must be of the same class

(see illustration).
2 The gudgeon pins are an interference fit in

the connecting rods, and if new pistons are to
be fitted to the existing connecting rods the
work should be carried out by a Ford garage
who will have the necessary tooling. Note that
the oil splash hole on the connecting rod must
be located on the right-hand side of the piston
(the arrow on the piston crown faces forwards)

(see illustration).
3 If new rings are to be fitted to the existing

pistons, expand the old rings over the top of
the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
blades will be helpful in preventing the rings
dropping into empty grooves. Note that the oil
control ring is in three sections.
4 Before fitting the new rings to the pistons,
insert them into the cylinder bore and use a
feeler blade to check that the end gaps are
within the specified limits (see illustrations).
5 Clean out the piston ring grooves using a
piece of old piston ring as a scraper. Be
careful not to scratch the aluminium surface of
the pistons. Protect your fingers - piston ring
edges are sharp. Also probe the groove oil
return holes.
6 Fit the oil control ring sections with the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of the
piston. The side ring gaps should be 25 mm

29 Pistons and connecting rods

- examination and renovation

28 Cylinder block and bores -

examination and renovation

SOHC engines 2A•13

2A

27.3a Undersize crankshaft bearings are

indicated by a spot and/or line on the front

counterweight

27.3b Main bearing cap marks (arrowed)
denote oversize parent bore

27.5 Checking the width of the Plastigage
filament against the scale on the packet

29.1 Weight class mark (arrowed) on
connecting rod

29.2 Relationship of piston crown arrow and
connecting rod oil splash hole (arrowed)

(1.0 in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit the
tapered lower compression ring with the TOP
mark towards the top of the piston and the gap
150° from the spreader gap, then fit the upper
compression ring with the gap 150° on the
other side of the spreader gap. Note that the
compression rings are coated with a
molybdenum skin which must not be damaged.
7 Note that the compression rings are made
of cast iron, and will snap if expanded too far.

Examine the surface of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the cam followers for
wear. If excessive, considerable noise would
have been noticed from the top of the engine
and a new camshaft and followers must be
fitted.

Check the camshaft bearings for wear and if
necessary have them renewed by a Ford
garage.

Check the camshaft lubrication tube for
obstructions and make sure that the jet holes
are clear. Obstruction of the holes can be due
to sludge build-up which occurs when regular
oil changes have been neglected.

Examine the auxiliary shaft for wear and
damage and renew it if necessary.

If the auxiliary shaft endfloat is outside the
limits given in the Specifications fit a new
thrust plate. If this does not bring the endfloat
within limits, renew the shaft.

Whenever the timing belt is removed it is
worthwhile renewing it, especially if it has
covered a high mileage. This is more important
on the 2.0 litre engine where stripped teeth on
the timing belt can cause the pistons to foul
the valves.

If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, it should be renewed. The old ring can
be removed from the flywheel by cutting a
notch between two teeth with a hacksaw and
then splitting it with a cold chisel. Wear eye
protection when doing this.

To fit a new ring gear requires heating the
ring to 204°C (400°F). This can be done by
polishing four equal sections of the gear,
laying it on a suitable heat resistant surface
(such as fire bricks) and heating it evenly with
a blow lamp or torch until the polished areas
turn a light yellow tinge. Do not overheat or the
hard wearing properties will be lost. The gear
has a chamfered inner edge which should go
against the shoulder when put on the flywheel.
When hot enough place the gear in position
quickly, tapping it home if necessary and let it
cool naturally, without quenching.

1 This operation will normally only be required
at comparatively high mileages. However, if
persistent pinking occurs and performance
has deteriorated even though the engine
adjustments are correct, decarbonising and
valve grinding may be required.
2 With the cylinder head removed, use a
scraper to remove the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports. Remove all
traces of gasket from the cylinder head
surface, then wash it thoroughly with paraffin.
3 Use a straight-edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head surface is not
distorted. If it is, it must be resurfaced by a
suitably equipped engineering works.
4 If the engine is still in the car, clean the
piston crowns and cylinder bore upper edges,
but make sure that no carbon drops between
the pistons and bores. To do this, locate two
of the pistons at the top of their bores and seal
off the remaining bores with paper and
masking tape. Press a little grease between
the two pistons and their bores to collect any
carbon dust; this can be wiped away when the
piston is lowered.

5 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting
and burning, especially the exhaust valve
heads. Renew any valve which is badly burnt.
Examine the valve seats at the same time. If
the pitting is very slight, it can be removed by
grinding the valve heads and seats together
with coarse, then fine, grinding paste.
6 Where excessive pitting has occurred, the
valve seats must be recut or renewed by a
suitably equipped engineering works.
7 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside down on a
bench on blocks of wood.
8 Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste
on the seat face and press a suction grinding
tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary
action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting
the valve occasionally to redistribute the
grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the
process with fine carborundum paste as
before. A light spring placed under the valve
head will greatly ease this operation. When a
smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish
is produced on both the valve and seat, the
grinding operation is complete.
9 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head
and stem, and clean away all traces of
grinding compound. Clean the valves and
seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then wipe
with a clean rag.
10 If the guides are worn they will need
reboring for oversize valves or for fitting guide
inserts. The valve seats will also need
recutting to ensure that they are concentric
with the stems. This work should be given to
your Ford dealer or local engineering works.
11 If the valve springs have been in use
for 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or more, renew
them. Always renew the valve stem oil seals
when the valves are removed.

1 To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring washers
must be fitted where indicated. Oil all bearings
and other working surfaces thoroughly with
engine oil during assembly.
2 Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or
studs with damaged threads.
3 Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter.
4 If they have been removed, new cylinder
head bolts and flywheel bolts will also be
required.

35 Engine reassembly - general

information

34 Cylinder head - decarbonising,

valve grinding and renovation

33 Flywheel ring gear -

examination and renovation

32 Timing belt - examination and

renovation

31 Auxiliary shaft - examination

and renovation

30 Camshaft and cam followers

- examination and renovation

2A•14 SOHC engines

29.4a Checking a piston ring gap at the top
of the cylinder

29.4b Checking a ring gap at the bottom of
the cylinder

To prevent carbon build-up,
polish the piston crown with
metal polish, but remove all
traces of the polish after.

1 Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase with a soft, non-fluffy rag.
2 Wipe the crankshaft journals with a soft,
non-fluffy rag.
3 Fit the five upper half main bearing shells to
their locations in the crankcase. If the old
shells are being re-used, make sure they are
refitted to their old locations.
4 Identify each main bearing cap and place in
order. The number is cast onto the cap and on
intermediate caps an arrow is also marked
which should point towards front of engine.
5 Wipe the cap bearing shell location with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
6 Fit the bearing half shell onto each main
bearing cap.
7 Apply a little grease to each side of the
centre main bearing so as to retain the
thrustwasher.
8 Fit the upper halves of the thrustwashers
into their grooves either side of the main
bearing. The slots must face outwards.
9 Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
engine oil and locate the rear oil seal (with lip
lubricated) on the rear of the crankshaft.
10 Carefully lower the crankshaft into the
crankcase.
11 Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again and then fit No 1 bearing cap. Fit
the two securing bolts but do not tighten yet.

12 Make sure that the mating faces are clean,
then apply sealant (Loctite 518 or equivalent)
to the areas on the rear main bearing cap (see

illustration).
13 Fit the rear main bearing cap. Fit the two

securing bolts, but as before do not tighten yet.
14 Apply a little grease to either side of the
centre main bearing cap so as to retain the
thrustwashers. Fit the thrustwashers with the
tag located in the groove and the slots facing
outwards (see illustration).
15 Fit the centre main bearing cap and the
two securing bolts, then refit the intermediate
main bearing caps. Make sure that the arrows
point towards the front of the engine.
16 Lightly tighten all main cap securing bolts
and then fully tighten in a progressive manner
to the specified torque wrench setting.
17 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with new
components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
18 Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
19 Make sure that the rear oil seal is fully
located onto its seating. Coat the rear main
bearing cap wedges with sealing compound,
then press them into position with the rounded
red face towards the cap (see illustration).

20 Refit the oil pump and strainer.
21 Refit the crankshaft front oil seal housing,

and auxiliary shaft front cover, if applicable,
together with a new gasket and tighten the bolts.

Make sure that the bottom face of the housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the block.
22 Refit the flywheel or driveplate and the
pistons and connecting rods.

23 Refit the timing belt and sprockets.

1 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and

the recesses in the connecting rods and big­end caps.
2 Press the bearing shells into the connecting
rods and caps in their correct positions and oil
them liberally. Note that the lugs must be
adjacent to each other (see illustration).

3 Lubricate the cylinder bores with engine oil.
4 Fit a ring compressor to No 1 piston, then

insert the piston and connecting rod into No 1
cylinder. With No 1 crankpin at its lowest
point, drive the piston carefully into the
cylinder with the wooden handle of a hammer,
and at the same time guide the connecting rod
onto the crankpin. Make sure that the arrow on
the piston crown is facing the front of the
engine (see illustrations).
5 Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end bearing
cap in its previously noted position. Oil the
big-end bearing cap nuts, fit the nuts and
tighten them to the specified torque.

6 Check that the crankshaft turns freely.
7 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 4

to 6 inclusive on the remaining pistons.

8 Refit the cylinder head and sump.

37 Pistons and connecting rods

- refitting

36 Crankshaft and main

bearings - refitting

SOHC engines 2A•15

2A

36.12 Apply sealant to the rear main
bearing cap areas shown darkened

36.14 Fitting a thrust washer to the centre
main bearing cap

36.19 Fitting a sealing wedge to the rear
main bearing cap

37.2 Big-end bearing shell lugs (arrowed)
are adjacent

37.4a Fitting a piston ring compressor 37.4b Piston crown markings

Arrow points to front of engine

1 Insert the oil pump driveshaft into the block
in its previously noted position.
2 Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and
turning it by hand (see illustration).
3 Fit the pump. insert the bolts and tighten
them to the specified torque with the splined
key.
4 Insert the pick-up tube securing bolt and
tighten it.
5 Where applicable refit the crankshaft front
oil seal housing together with a new gasket
and tighten the bolts. Make sure that the
bottom face of the housing is aligned with the
bottom face of the block.

6 Refit the sump.

1 Apply sealing compound to the corners of

the front and rear rubber sealing strap
locations, then press the strips into the
grooves of the rear main bearing cap and
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see

illustrations)
2 Apply a little sealing compound to the

bottom face of the cylinder block, then fit the
sump gaskets in position and locate the end
tabs beneath the rubber sealing strips (see

illustration).

3 Locate the sump on the gaskets and insert

the bolts loosely.
4 Tighten the bolts to the specified torques in
the two stages given in the Specifications (see
illustration). Tighten to the first stage in
circular sequence starting at point A, then
tighten to the second stage starting at point B.
Tighten to the third stage after the engine has
been running for twenty minutes.
5 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
steps taken to gain access to the sump.

1 If it was removed, refit the adapter plate
(backplate) over the dowels on the rear of the
block.

2 Wipe the mating faces, then locate the
flywheel/driveplate on the rear of the
crankshaft.
3 Coat the threads of the bolts with a liquid
locking agent before fitting. Note that the
manufacturers recommend using new bolts.
4 Using a piece of angle iron, hold the
flywheel/driveplate stationary, then tighten the
bolts evenly to the specified torque in diagonal
sequence (see illustrations).
5 If the engine is in the car, refit the automatic
transmission or the clutch.

1 Oil the auxiliary shaft journals, then insert
the shaft into the cylinder block.
2 Locate the thrust plate in the shaft groove,
then insert the crosshead screws and tighten
them with an impact screwdriver.
3 Support the front cover on blocks of wood and
drive out the old oil seal. Drive in the new seal
using a metal tube or socket (see illustrations).
Make sure that the sealing lip faces toward the
engine. Smear a little oil on the lip.
4 If applicable cut the unwanted top half of a
new gasket and locate it on the cylinder block,
then fit the front cover and tighten the bolts.
5 Refit the fuel pump and operating rod (when
applicable).

6 Refit the distributor.
7 Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket and timing

belt.

41 Auxiliary shaft - refitting

40 Flywheel/driveplate and

adapter plate - refitting

39 Sump - refitting

38 Oil pump - refitting

2A•16 SOHC engines

38.2 Priming the oil pump

40.4a Method of holding the flywheel when
tightening the bolts

39.4 Sump bolt tightening sequence

For A and B see text

40.4b Tightening a flywheel bolt

39.2 Locate the gasket tabs beneath the
sealing strips

39.1a Applying sealing compound to a
rubber strip location

39.1b Fitting the rubber strip into its groove

1 Refit the thermostat and housing.
2 Refit the timing belt tensioner if it was

removed, but do not tighten the bolts yet.
3 If applicable, screw the cam follower ball­pins in their correct locations (see

illustration).
4 Oil the valve stems and insert the valves in

their correct guides.
5 Wrap some adhesive tape over the collet
groove of each valve, then oil the oil seals and
slide them over the valve onto the guides. Use
a suitable metal tube if necessary to press
them onto the guides. Remove the adhesive
tape.
6 Working on each valve in turn, fit the valve
spring and cap, then compress the spring with
the compressor and insert the split collets.
Release the compressor and remove it. Tap
the end of the valve stem with a non-metallic
mallet to settle the collets. If tool 21-005-A is
being used, first locate the camshaft in its
bearings.

7 Refit the camshaft.

1 Drive the new oil seal into the camshaft front

bearing location on the cylinder head using a
suitable metal tube or socket (see

illustration). Smear the lip with engine oil.
2 Lubricate the bearings with hypoid

SAE 80/90 oil, then carefully insert the camshaft.
3 Locate the thrust plate in the camshaft
groove, then insert and tighten the bolts.
4 Using feeler blades check that the endfloat
is as given in the Specifications.
5 Lubricate the ball-pins with hypoid
SAE 80/90 oil, then fit the cam followers in
their correct locations and retain with the
spring clips. It will be necessary to rotate the
camshaft during this operation.

6 Fit the oil supply tube and tighten the bolts.
7 Fit the camshaft sprocket backplate and

sprocket. Insert and tighten the bolt while
holding the camshaft stationary with a spanner
on the lug (see illustration).

8 Refit the cylinder head.

1 Adjust the valve clearances. This work is

easier to carry out on the bench rather than in
the car.
2 Turn the engine so that No 1 piston is
approximately 2 cm (0.8 in) before top dead

centre. This precaution will prevent any
damage to open valves.
3 Make sure that the faces of the cylinder
block and cylinder head are perfectly clean,
then locate the new gasket on the block
making sure that all the internal holes are
aligned (see illustration). Do not use jointing

compound.

4 Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer is
aligned with the indentation on the front of the
cylinder head.
5 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket.
The help of an assistant will ensure that the
gasket is not dislodged. Alternatively, make a
couple of guide studs by sawing the heads off
two old cylinder head bolts; remove the studs
when the head is in position.
6 Lightly oil the heads and threads of the new
head bolts and insert them into their holes.
7 Using the Torx key, tighten the bolts
progressively to the Stage 1 specified torque
in the indicated sequence (see illustration).
8 In the same sequence tighten the bolts to
the Stage 2 specified torque.
9 Wait five minutes, then tighten the bolts
through the angle specified for Stage 3, still
following the same sequence. (If the engine is
on the bench, it may be preferable to leave this
final stage until after refitting the engine, when
the problem of holding it still will not arise.)
10 Refit the rocker cover, using a new gasket.
Make sure that the dovetail sections of the
gasket engage correctly (see illustration).
11 Fit the rocker cover bolts and reinforcing
plates. Tighten the bolts as follows, referring to

44 Cylinder head - refitting

43 Camshaft - refitting42 Cylinder head - reassembly

SOHC engines 2A•17

2A

41.3a Driving out the auxiliary shaft cover
oil seal

41.3b Fitting a new oil seal in the auxiliary
shaft cover

42.3 Cam follower ball-pins and spring
clips fitted

43.1 Fitting the camshaft front bearing oil
seal

43.7 Fitting the camshaft sprocket
backplate

44.3 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket

A dab of grease on the collets
will keep them in position on
the valve stem

the Specifications and to illustration 44.11:

Stage 1 - Bolts 1 to 6
Stage 2 - Bolts 7 and 8
Stage 3 - Bolts 9 and 10
Stage 4 - Bolts 7 and 8 (again)

12 No further tightening of the cylinder head
bolts is required.
13 Refit and tension the timing belt as
described in the next Section.

1 Fit the camshaft sprocket backplate and
sprocket. Insert the bolt, hold the camshaft or
sprocket and tighten the bolt to the specified
torque.

2 Fit the auxiliary shaft sprocket with the ribs
towards the engine. Fit the sprocket bolt and
tighten it to the specified torque,
counterholding the sprocket with a bar
through one of the holes.
3 Fit the crankshaft sprocket, chamfered side
inwards.
4 Fit the timing belt over the camshaft
sprocket, but do not engage it with the other
sprockets yet. Be careful not to kink the belt. If
the old belt is being refitted, observe the
previously noted running direction (see

illustration).
5 Refit the guide washer and the crankshaft

pulley. Fit the bolt and washer and tighten just
enough to seat the pulley, being careful not to
turn the crankshaft (see illustrations).
6 Make sure that the TDC pointer on the
camshaft sprocket backplate is still aligned
with the indentation on the cylinder head.
7 Turn the crankshaft by the shortest route to
align the TDC notch in the pulley with the
pointer on the oil seal housing.
8 If the distributor is fitted, turn the auxiliary
shaft sprocket so that the rotor arm points to
the No 1 HT segment position.
9 Fit the timing belt over the sprockets and
round the tensioner. Move the tensioner to
tension the belt roughly and nip up the
tensioner bolts.
10 Turn the crankshaft through two full turns
clockwise, then 60° anti-clockwise (so it is
now at 60° BTDC)
11 The belt tension should now ideally be
checked by applying Ford tension gauge 21-113

to the longest run. Desired gauge readings are:

Used belt - 4 to 5
New belt - 10 to 11

12 If the tension gauge is not available, a
rough guide is that belt tension is correct when
the belt can be twisted 90° in the middle of the
longest run with the fingers (see illustration).
13 If adjustment of belt tension is necessary,
turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1
cylinder to TDC (see illustration) then slacken
the tensioner bolts and move the tensioner to
increase or decrease belt tension. Tighten the
tensioner bolts.
14 Turn the crankshaft 90° clockwise past
TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60°
BTDC position. Check the belt tension again.
15 Repeat the above procedure until the belt
tension is correct.
16 Tighten the tensioner bolts and the
crankshaft pulley bolt to the specified torques

(see illustration).
17 Refit the belt cover and tighten its bolts.
18 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the

preliminary steps given in Section 13.
19 Check the ignition timing when the engine
is next run.

Refer to Section 9 and refit the components
listed. Delicate items such as the alternator
and distributor may be left until after the
engine has been refitted, if preferred.

46 Ancillary components - refitting

45 Timing belt and sprockets -

refitting

2A•18 SOHC engines

44.7 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence

45.4 Fitting the timing belt over the
crankshaft sprocket

45.5a Refitting the crankshaft pulley 45.5b Crankshaft pulley bolt and washer 45.12 Twisting the timing belt to assess its
tension

44.10 Dovetail section of rocker cover
gasket

44.11 Rocker cover bolts (A) and
reinforcing plates (B)

For tightening sequence see text

If the crankcase ventilation oil separator was
removed, apply a liquid locking agent to its
tube before pressing it into the cylinder block.

1 Make sure that the clutch is centred.
2 Apply a smear of grease or anti-seize

compound to the gearbox input shaft splines.
3 With the aid of an assistant, offer the
gearbox to the engine. If the input shaft is
reluctant to enter the clutch, rock the gearbox
slightly or turn the crankshaft back and forth.
Support the gearbox until it is engaged with
the dowels on the engine - do not leave it
hanging on the input shaft.

4 Refit the engine-to-bellhousing bolts, the
bracing strap and the starter motor.

1 Sling the engine/gearbox unit so that it
hangs at an angle of approximately 45°.
2 Lower the unit into the engine bay, at the
same time moving it towards the rear of the
vehicle. Have an assistant watch as the unit is
lowered to check that no pipes, wires etc are
fouled or trapped.
3 Raise the gearbox as the engine is lowered
until the unit takes up its correct position.
Secure the engine bearers to the mountings
and refit the gearbox crossmember.
4 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure. Refer to Section 6. Also
refer to Section 49, paragraph 9.

5 Before starting the engine, refer to Section 51.

1 On manual gearbox models, check that the

clutch is centred correctly. Apply a smear of
grease or anti-seize compound to the gearbox
input shaft.
2 On automatic transmission models, check
that the torque converter is fully engaged with
the transmission oil pump.
3 Sling the engine so that it is roughly horizontal.

Lift it and position it over the engine bay.
4 Lower the engine into place. Have an
assistant watch as the unit is lowered to check
that no pipes, wires etc are fouled or trapped.
5 Guide the engine onto the transmission,
raising or lowering the transmission slightly if
necessary. Do not place any weight on the
transmission input shaft. With manual gearbox
models, rock the engine gently from side to
side to encourage the input shaft to enter the
clutch.
6 When the engine and transmission are fully
engaged, refit the engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
Do not overlook the earth strap.
7 Lower the engine so that the engine bearers
engage with the mountings. Fit the mounting
nuts and remove the lifting tackle.
8 On automatic transmission models, bolt the
torque converter to the driveplate.
9 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure. Note the following
additional points:

a) Refill the engine with oil
b) Check the transmission oil level if

necessary

c) Adjust the tension of the accessory

drivebelts
d) Adjust the throttle cable
e) Adjust the downshift cable when

applicable
f) Refill the cooling system

10 Before starting the engine, see Section 51

49 Engine - refitting without

gearbox/transmission

48 Engine - refitting with manual

gearbox

47 Engine and gearbox -

reconnection

SOHC engines 2A•19

2A

45.16 Holding the crankshaft pulley with

two bolts and a lever while tightening the

central bolt

45.13 Timing belt tension checking sequence

A No 1 at TDC B 60° BTDC for checking C Return to TDC for adjustment

See Chapter 1, Section 23.

1 Make a final check to ensure that everything
has been reconnected to the engine and that no
rags or tools have been left in the engine bay.
2 Check that oil and coolant levels are
correct.
3 Start the engine. This may take a little longer
than usual as fuel is pumped up to the engine.
4 Check that the oil pressure light goes out
when the engine starts.
5 Run the engine at a fast tickover and check
for leaks of oil, fuel and coolant. Also check
power steering and transmission fluid cooler
unions, when applicable. Some smoke and
odd smells may be experienced as assembly
lubricant burns off the exhaust manifold and
other components.

6 Bring the engine to operating temperature.
Check the ignition timing then adjust the idle
speed (if applicable) and mixture.
7 Stop the engine and allow it to cool, then re­check the oil and coolant levels.
8 If new bearings, pistons etc have been
fitted, the engine should be run in at reduced
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
oil and filter after this mileage.

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2 The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.
3 Disable the ignition system by dismantling

the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6 Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9 On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.

52 Compression test -

description and interpretation

51 Initial start-up after overhaul

or major repair

50 Valve clearances - checking

and adjustment

2A•20 SOHC engines

Chapter 2 Part B:

2.0 litre DOHC engine

Unless otherwise stated, procedures are as described for the SOHC engines in Part A of this Chapter

Camshafts and cam followers - removal, inspection and refitting . .21

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .31

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .30

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Cylinder head - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . .17

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . .18

Engine/automatic transmission assembly - reconnection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Engine/automatic transmission assembly - removal and separation .8

Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Engine/manual gearbox assembly - reconnection and refitting . . . .11

Engine/manual gearbox assembly - removal and separation . . . . . .7

Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Engine - refitting (automatic transmission in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Engine - refitting (manual gearbox in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Engine - removal leaving automatic transmission in vehicle . . . . . . .6

Engine - removal leaving manual gearbox in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . .22

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .3

Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Oil pump drive chain and sprockets - examination and renovation .28

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Timing chain and sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - examination and

renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

General

Manufacturer’s code:

Carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N8B

Fuel-injection engine without catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N9B

Fuel-injection engine with catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N9D

Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 (3.386)

Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 (3.386)

Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1998 (121.9)

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3:1

Compression pressure at cranking speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar (160 to 189 lbf/in

2

)

Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm):

N8B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 @ 5600

N9B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 @ 5500

N9D engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 @ 5500

Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm):

N8B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 @ 3000

N9B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 @ 2500

N9D engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 @ 2500

Lubrication system

Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants and fluids”

Oil capacity:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres (7.92 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres (7.04 pints)

2B•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

2B

2B•2 DOHC engine

Cylinder block

Bore diameter:

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.000 to 86.010 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.010 to 86.020 mm

Oversize 0.15 grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.150 to 86.160 mm

Oversize 0.15 grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.160 to 86.170 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.500 to 86.510 mm

Crankshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.090 to 0.300 mm

Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.048 mm

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard (yellow) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.980 to 54.990 mm

Standard (red) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.990 to 55.000 mm

Undersize 0.25 (green) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.730 to 54.750 mm

Main bearing thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.301 to 2.351 mm

Oversize 0.38 (yellow) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.491 to 2.541 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.890 to 50.910 mm

Undersize 0.25 (green) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.640 to 50.660 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85.970 to 85.980 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85.980 to 85.990 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85.980 to 86.000 mm

Oversize 0.15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.130 to 86.150 mm

Oversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.470 to 86.490 mm

Piston ring end gap:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.300 to 0.600 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.500 to 0.800 mm

Bottom (oil control) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 1.500 mm

Cylinder head

Valve guide bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.063 to 7.094 mm

Camshaft bearing parent bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.000 to 26.030 mm

Camshafts

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.260 mm

Valves and valve springs - general

Valve timing:

Carburettor engine:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13°BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39°ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43°BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13°ATDC

Fuel-injection engines:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13°BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51°ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43°BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13°ATDC

Valve spring free length:

Inner spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.200 mm

Outer spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.800 mm

Inlet valve stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.025 to 7.043 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.225 to 7.243 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.425 to 7.443 mm

Oversize 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.625 to 7.643 mm

Oversize 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.825 to 7.843 mm

Exhaust valve stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.999 to 7.017 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.199 to 7.217 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.399 to 7.417 mm

Oversize 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.599 to 7.617 mm

Oversize 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.799 to 7.817 mm

DOHC engine 2B•3

2B

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 104 66 to 77

Big-end bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 17 11 to 13

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 85° to 95° Tighten further 85° to 95°

Crankshaft pulley bolt:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 58 33 to 43

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 80° to 90° Tighten further 80° to 90°

Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 63 41 to 46

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 to 92 61 to 68

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9

Oil pump sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 19 12 to 14

Oil pump chain tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 7 to 10

Sump bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7

Sump studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21

Sump front mounting plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 28 17 to 21

Oil baffle nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 15

Oil pick-up pipe-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 22 13 to 16

Cylinder head bolts:

M11 bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°

M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 to 39 27 to 29

Camshaft cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Camshaft bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 26 16 to 19

Lower timing chain guide:

Upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 7 to 10

Lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 28 18 to 21

Upper and lower timing chain cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 10 5 to 7

Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Engine-to-gearbox/transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30

The 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead
Camshaft) engine was introduced in June
1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine
used previously in the Granada range, at the
same time a 2.0 litre version of the Scorpio
model was also introduced. The engine is of
four-cylinder, in-line type.

The crankshaft incorporates five main
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
centre main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.

The camshafts are driven by a chain from
the crankshaft and operate the angled valves
via hydraulic cam followers. One camshaft
operates the inlet valves, and the other
operates the exhaust valves.

The distributor is driven directly from the
front of the inlet camshaft, and the oil pump is
driven by a chain from the crankshaft. An
electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank.

Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full­flow filter into the engine oil galleries, from
where it is distributed to the crankshaft and
camshafts. The big-end bearings are supplied
with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft.
The undersides of the pistons are supplied

with oil from drillings in the connecting rods.
The hydraulic cam followers are supplied with
oil from passages in the cylinder head. The
camshafts are lubricated by oil from spray
tubes mounted above the camshaft bearing
caps.

A closed crankcase ventilation system is
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
drawn from the crankcase, through a breather
pipe into the inlet manifold where they are
burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture.

The crankcase ventilation system (see
illustration) consists of an oil separator and
vent valve fitted to the cylinder block on the
left-hand side of the engine. This is connected
by a pipe to the inlet manifold. The system
operates according to the vacuum in the inlet

2 Crankcase ventilation system -

general information

1 General information

2.1 Crankcase ventilation

system - fuel-injection engine

1 Inlet manifold connection
2 Inlet manifold
3 Breather pipe
4 Oil separator
5 Vent valve
6 Connecting hose

manifold. Piston blow-by gases are drawn
through the oil separator and the vent valve to
the inlet manifold. The blow-by gases are then
drawn into the engine together with the fuel/air
mixture. Refer to Chapter 1 for maintenance of
the system.

The following operations can be carried out

without removing the engine from the vehicle.

a) Removal of the camshafts.
b) Removal and servicing of the cylinder

head.

c) Removal of the timing chain and

sprockets.
d) Removal of the oil pump.
e) Removal of the sump.
f) Removal of the pistons and connecting

rods.
g) Removal of the big-end bearings.
h) Removal of the engine mountings.
i) Removal of the clutch and flywheel.
j) Removal of the crankshaft front and rear

oil seals.

The following operations can only be carried

out after removing the engine from the vehicle.

a) Removal of the crankshaft main bearings.
b) Removal of the crankshaft.

Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required
to lift the engine out of the vehicle.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the bonnet.
3 On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.
4 On fuel-injection models, remove the air

inlet hose, plenum chamber and air cleaner lid
as an assembly.
5 Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover, and unscrew the bolt
securing the hose support bracket to the left­hand side of the cylinder head (see

illustration).
6 Drain the cooling system.
7 To provide additional working space,

remove the radiator.

8 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
water pump housing on the left-hand side of
the engine and the cylinder head (see

illustration).
9 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the

thermostat housing.
10 Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold.
11 Where applicable, release the coolant
hose from the bracket under the carburettor
automatic choke housing.
12 Disconnect the throttle cable and (where
necessary) speed control cable from the
throttle linkage.
13 On carburettor models, disconnect the
vacuum pipe from the engine management
module.
14 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
(where necessary) from the inlet manifold.
15 On fuel-injection models, disconnect the
vacuum pipes from the MAP sensor (located
on the suspension turret on the right-hand
side of the engine compartment) and, where
applicable, the air conditioning system.
16 On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel supply and return hoses at the
carburettor, and plug the ends of the hoses to
minimise petrol spillage. Take adequate fire
precautions.
17 On fuel-injection models, slowly loosen
the fuel feed union at the fuel rail to relieve the
pressure in the fuel system before
disconnecting the union. Be prepared for
petrol spillage and take adequate fire
precautions. Disconnect the fuel feed hose,

and disconnect the fuel return hose from the
fuel pressure regulator. Plug the ends of the
hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
18 Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
coil, and unclip it from the timing chain cover.
19 Disconnect the wiring from the following
components as applicable, depending on
model. Then free the wiring loom from any
necessary retaining clips or ties and position it
clear of the engine.

a) Alternator.
b) Starter motor.
c) Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
d) Temperature gauge sender.
e) Cooling fan switch.
f) Anti-dieselling valve (carburettor models).
g) Automatic choke heater (carburettor

models).
h) Engine coolant temperature sensor.
i) Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
j) Air charge temperature sensor.
k) Throttle position sensor.
l) Fuel temperature sensor.
m) Fuel injectors.

20 Remove the water pump/alternator
drivebelt, then unbolt the power steering
pump from the mounting bracket and move it
clear of the engine. Note that there is no need
to disconnect the fluid hoses, but make sure
that the pump is adequately supported to
avoid straining them.
21 On models fitted with air conditioning,
unbolt the air conditioning compressor from the
mounting bracket, and move it clear of the
engine (see illustration). Do not disconnect the
hoses, but make sure that the compressor is
adequately supported to avoid straining them.
22 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to­gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
engine compartment. Note the location of the
bolts, and the positions of the earth strap and
any wiring clips attached to the bolts.
23 Unscrew the securing bolt, and
disconnect the earth lead from the rear left­hand side of the cylinder head.
24 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
25 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).

26 Drain the engine oil into a container.

5 Engine - removal leaving manual

gearbox in vehicle

4 Major operations requiring

engine removal

3 Major operations possible with

the engine in the vehicle

2B•4 DOHC engine

5.5 Removing the hose support bracket
bolt from the cylinder head

5.8 Water pump coolant hoses (viewed
from above)

5.21 Air conditioning compressor mounting
bolts (arrowed) (viewed from underneath)

Warning: Vehicles equipped with
air conditioning: Components of
the air conditioning system may

obstruct work being undertaken
on the engine, and it is not always possible
to unbolt and move them aside sufficiently,
within the limits of their flexible pipes. In
such a case, the system should be
discharged by a Ford dealer or air
conditioning specialist. Refer also to the
precautions given in Chapter 3.

27 Remove the starter motor.
28 Remove the exhaust downpipe.
29 Ensure that the steering wheel is

positioned in the straight-ahead position then,
using a dab of paint or a suitable marker pen,
make alignment marks between the
intermediate shaft lower clamp and steering
gear pinion. Slacken and remove the lower
clamp bolt then disconnect the intermediate
shaft from the steering gear (see illustration).
30 Working inside the vehicle, place a
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
it fully against the stop, so holding the
automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
quadrant.
31 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
through the bellhousing.
32 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
33 Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate (see
illustration). Recover any shims fitted
between the sump and the gearbox when
removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts.
34 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected and positioned clear of the
engine to facilitate engine removal.
35 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
36 To improve clearance in the engine
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt
the engine mounting brackets from the
cylinder block, and remove them (see

illustration).
37 Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember (see illustration).
38 Support the crossmember with a jack (do

not remove the jack from under the gearbox),
then loosen the bolts securing the
crossmember to the underbody. Remove the
bolts from one side, and carefully lower the
crossmember to allow sufficient room for the
sump to clear the steering rack and
crossmember when pulling the engine
forwards from the gearbox (see illustration).

39 Gently raise the engine, then pull it
forwards to disconnect it from the gearbox.
Ensure that the gearbox is adequately
supported, and take care not to strain the
gearbox input shaft.

40 Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage
the components in the engine compartment.

Note: Refer to Part A, Section 4 of this
Chapter and to the warning that appears at the
start of Section 5 before proceeding. A
suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required
for this operation.

1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2 Unscrew and remove the top engine-to­transmission bolts which are accessible from
the engine compartment. Note the location of
the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
transmission dipstick tube bracket, as
applicable.
3 Proceed as described in paragraphs 23 to 29
of Section 5.

4 Where applicable, remove the bolt securing
the transmission fluid dipstick tube to the left­hand side of the cylinder block.
5 Working through the starter motor aperture,
unscrew the four torque converter-to­driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
to each bolt in turn through the aperture.
6 Support the transmission with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the transmission to spread the load.
7 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine­to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate. Recover any
shims fitted between the sump and the
transmission when removing the lower engine­to-transmission bolts. Where applicable, pull
the blanking plug from the adapter plate.
8 Proceed as described in paragraphs 34 to 38
of Section 5.
9 Gently raise the engine, then pull the engine
forwards to disconnect it from the
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
is held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the transmission.
10 Once clear of the transmission, lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage the components in the engine
compartment.

6 Engine - removal leaving

automatic transmission in vehicle

DOHC engine 2B•5

2B

5.29 Intermediate shaft lower clamp bolt
(arrowed)

5.33 Engine adaptor plate bolt (arrowed) 5.36 Remove the engine mounting brackets
to improve clearance

5.37 Removing a brake line securing clip

from the suspension crossmember

5.38 Removing a suspension crossmember
securing bolt

It may be necessary to rock
the engine a little to release it
from the gearbox.

Note: Refer to Part A, Section 4 of this Chapter
and to the warning that appears at the start of
Section 5 before proceeding. A hoist and lifting
tackle will be required for this operation.

1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2 Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4 Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Ensure that
there is enough working room beneath the
vehicle.
5 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system.

6 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
7 On models fitted with a catalytic converter,

release the securing clips and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.

8 Remove the propeller shaft.
9 Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,

then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar mounting clamps
to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll
bar as far as possible.
10 Proceed as described in paragraphs 30
and 31 of Section 5.
11 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
12 Unscrew the four nuts securing the
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the gearbox, and remove
the crossmember. Note the position of the
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup, and the exhaust mounting
bracket and heat shield (as applicable).
13 Lower the gearbox slightly on the jack,
then remove the circlip, and disconnect the
speedometer drive cable from the gearbox.
14 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
lamp switch, and on models with fuel-injection,
disconnect the wiring from the vehicle speed
sensor mounted in the side of the gearbox.
15 Slacken and remove the two bolts and
washers (one either side) securing the gear
linkage support bracket to the gearbox.
16 Using a pin punch, drive out the roll pin
securing the gearchange rod to the gear linkage.
17 Attach a hoist to the engine lifting brackets
located at the front and rear of the cylinder head,
and slowly take the weight of the engine. Arrange
the lifting tackle so that the engine/gearbox
assembly will assume a steep angle of
approximately 40° to 45° as it is being removed.
18 To improve clearance in the engine
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt

the engine mounting brackets from the
cylinder block, and remove them.
19 Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
in the straight-ahead position then, using a dab
of paint or a marker pen, make alignment marks
between the intermediate shaft lower clamp
and steering gear pinion. Slacken and remove
the lower clamp bolt then disconnect the
intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
20 Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
21 Support the crossmember with a jack (do not
remove the jack from under the gearbox), then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to the
underbody. Remove the crossmember securing
bolts, and carefully lower the crossmember to
allow sufficient room for the engine sump to clear
the steering rack and crossmember as the
engine/gearbox assembly is removed.
22 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
engine/gearbox assembly.
23 Raise the engine/gearbox, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack which is
supporting the gearbox.
24 Place a suitable rod across the vehicle
underbody to support the gear linkage support
bracket whilst the gearbox is removed.
25 Tilt the engine/gearbox assembly using
the hoist and the trolley jack, until the
assembly can be lifted from the vehicle. Take
care not to damage surrounding components.
26 If the vehicle is to be moved, with the
engine/gearbox assembly removed, temporarily
refit the suspension crossmember and the anti­roll bar to the underbody, and reconnect the
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
27 To separate the engine from the gearbox,
proceed as follows.

28 Remove the starter motor.
29 Support the engine and gearbox

horizontally on blocks of wood.
30 Unscrew the engine-to-gearbox bolts,
noting the locations of the bolts, and the
positions of the earth strap and any wiring clips
attached to the bolts. Recover any shims fitted
between the sump and the gearbox when
removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts.
31 Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
plate.
32 Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.

Note: Refer to Part A, Section 4 of this
Chapter and to the warning that appears at the
start of Section 5 before proceeding. A
suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required
for this operation. Any suspected faults in the
automatic transmission should be referred to a
Ford dealer or automatic transmission

specialist before removal of unit, as the
specialist fault diagnosis equipment is
designed to operate with the transmission in
the vehicle.

1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2 Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4 Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Ensure that
there is enough working room beneath the
vehicle.
5 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system .

6 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
7 On models fitted with a catalytic converter,

release the securing clips and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.

8 Remove the propeller shaft.
9 Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,

then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar mounting clamps
to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll
bar as far as possible.
10 Support the transmission with a trolley
jack, using a block of wood between the jack
and the transmission to spread the load.
11 Unscrew the four bolts securing the
transmission crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the transmission, and
remove the crossmember. Note the position of
the earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup, and the exhaust mounting
bracket and heat shield (as applicable).

12 Lower the transmission slightly on the jack.
13 Unscrew the unions and disconnect the

fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
the open ends of the pipes and the
transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid
leakage. Where applicable, detach the fluid
cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting
bracket, and move it to one side.
14 Remove the two clips securing the
selector rod, and detach the selector rod from
the manual selector lever, and the selector
lever on the transmission.
15 Disconnect the wiring from the starter
inhibitor switch, downshift solenoid, lock-up
clutch, reversing lamp switch, and where
applicable, the 3rd/4th gearchange solenoid.
16 Remove the securing screw, and
disconnect the speedometer cable (where
fitted) from the transmission extension
housing. Plug the opening in the transmission
to prevent dirt ingress.
17 Proceed as described in paragraphs 17 to 26
of Section 7, substituting transmission for
gearbox and ignoring paragraph 24.
18 To separate the engine from the
transmission, proceed as follows.

19 Remove the starter motor.
20 Support the engine and transmission

horizontally on blocks of wood.

8 Engine/automatic

transmission assembly -

removal and separation

7 Engine/manual gearbox

assembly - removal and

separation

2B•6 DOHC engine

21 Working through the starter motor
aperture, unscrew the four torque converter­to-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn
the crankshaft using a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
22 Where applicable, remove the bolt
securing the transmission fluid dipstick tube to
the left-hand side of the cylinder block.
23 Unscrew the engine-to-transmission bolts,
noting the locations of the bolts, and the
positions of the earth strap and any wiring
clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims
fitted between the sump and the transmission
when removing the lower engine-to­transmission bolts.
24 Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
plate and, where applicable, pull the blanking
plug from the adapter plate.
25 Pull the engine and the transmission apart,
ensuring that the torque converter is held firmly
in place in the transmission housing, otherwise
it could fall out resulting in fluid spillage and
possible damage. It may be necessary to rock
the units slightly to separate them.

1 Reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 1 to 40 of Section 5, noting the
following points.
2 Before attempting to refit the engine, check
that the clutch friction disc is centralised.
3 Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
4 Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on the locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block using one of the
engine-to-gearbox bolt holes.
5 If shims were fitted between the sump and
the gearbox, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
gearbox. If the engine has been overhauled,
where applicable fit the relevant shims as
calculated during engine reassembly .
6 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release arm,
ensuring that it is routed as noted during removal.
7 Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering
wheel are in the straight-ahead position then
align the marks made on removal and reconnect
the intermediate shaft to the steering gearing.
Tighten the clamp bolt to the specified torque.

8 Refit the exhaust downpipe.
9 Fill the engine with the correct grade and

quantity of oil.
10 Check the throttle cable adjustment. Where
necessary, also adjust the speed control cable
in the same way so that there is only a small
amount of slack present in the cable.
11 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the water
pump housing.

12 Fill the cooling system .
13 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,

where applicable.

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section 6,
noting the following points.
2 Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on the locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block using one of the
engine-to-transmission bolt holes.
3 As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be taken
to prevent the torque converter from falling out
forwards. When the torque converter hub is fully
engaged with the fluid pump drivegear in the
transmission, distance A (see illustration 2.20 in
Chapter 7B) must be as specified. Incorrect
installation of the torque converter will result in
damage to the transmission.
4 If shims were fitted between the sump and
the transmission, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
transmission. If the engine has been
overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant
shims as calculated during engine reassembly.
5 As the engine is installed, guide the torque
converter studs through the holes in the
driveplate. When the engine is positioned flush
with the engine adapter plate and the
transmission housing, check that the torque
converter is free to move axially a small
amount before refitting and tightening the
engine-to-transmission bolts.
6 Do not tighten the torque converter-to­driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to­transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
7 Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering
wheel are in the straight-ahead position then
align the marks made on removal and
reconnect the intermediate shaft to the
steering gearing. Tighten the clamp bolt to the
specified torque.

8 Refit the exhaust downpipe.
9 Fill the engine with the correct grade and

quantity of oil.
10 Check the throttle cable adjustment. Where
necessary, also adjust the speed control cable
in the same way so that there is only a small
amount of slack present in the cable.
11 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the water
pump housing.

12 Fill the cooling system.
13 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,

where applicable.

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section 7,
noting the following points.
2 Before attempting to reconnect the engine
to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction
disc is centralised.
3 Check that the clutch release arm and

bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
4 Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on the locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block using one of the
engine-to-gearbox bolt holes.
5 If shims were fitted between the sump and
the gearbox, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
gearbox. If the engine has been overhauled,
where applicable fit the relevant shims as
calculated during engine reassembly.
6 Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering
wheel are in the straight-ahead position then
align the marks made on removal and
reconnect the intermediate shaft to the
steering gearing. Tighten the clamp bolt to the
specified torque.
7 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal.

8 Refit the propeller shaft.
9 Refit the exhaust system.
10 Fill the engine with the correct grade and

quantity of oil.
11 Check the throttle cable adjustment. Where
necessary, also adjust the speed control cable
in the same way so that there is only a small
amount of slack present in the cable.
12 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the water
pump housing.

13 Fill the cooling system.
14 Check and if necessary top-up the

gearbox oil level.
15 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section 8,
noting the following points.
2 Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on the locating dowels. If
necessary, a cable-tie can be used to
temporarily secure the adapter plate in
position on the cylinder block using one of the
engine-to-transmission bolt holes.
3 As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be taken
to prevent the torque converter from falling out
forwards. When the torque converter hub is fully
engaged with the fluid pump drivegear in the
transmission, distance A (see illustration 2.20 in
Chapter 7B) must be as specified. Incorrect
installation of the torque converter will result in
damage to the transmission.
4 If shims were fitted between the sump and
the transmission, refit them in their original
locations when mating the engine to the
transmission. If the engine has been
overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant
shims as calculated during engine reassembly.

5 As the engine and transmission are mated

12 Engine/automatic

transmission assembly -

reconnection and refitting

11 Engine/manual gearbox

assembly - reconnection and

refitting

10 Engine - refitting (automatic

transmission in vehicle)

9 Engine - refitting (manual

gearbox in vehicle)

DOHC engine 2B•7

2B

together, guide the torque converter studs
through the holes in the driveplate. When the
engine is positioned flush with the engine
adapter plate and the transmission housing,
check that the torque converter is free to move
axially a small amount before refitting and
tightening the engine-to-transmission bolts.
6 Do not tighten the torque converter-to­driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to­transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
7 Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering
wheel are in the straight-ahead position then
align the marks made on removal and
reconnect the intermediate shaft to the
steering gearing. Tighten the clamp bolt to the
specified torque.
8 Reconnect the selector rod and adjust as
described in Chapter 7, Part B.

9 Refit the propeller shaft.
10 Refit the exhaust system.
11 Fill the engine with the correct grade and

quantity of oil.
12 Check the throttle cable adjustment. Where
necessary, also adjust the speed control cable
in the same way so that there is only a small
amount of slack present in the cable.
13 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the water
pump housing.

14 Fill the cooling system.
15 Check and if necessary top-up the

transmission fluid level.
16 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.

Proceed as described in Part A, Section 23
of this Chapter but note that on certain
models, it may be necessary to unbolt the
engine mounting brackets from the cylinder
block to allow sufficient clearance to remove
the mountings.

1 Refer to Part A, Section 8 of this Chapter,
paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive.
2 A selection of splined and Torx sockets will
be required to remove many of the bolts when
dismantling the engine.
3 Before dismantling the main engine
components, the following externally mounted
ancillary components can be removed.

a) Inlet manifold (and carburettor, where

applicable).
b) Exhaust manifold.
c) Alternator.
d) Water pump, and thermostat.
e) Water pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner.
f) Distributor cap, HT leads and spark plugs.
g) Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
h) Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
i) Oil filter.
j) Dipstick.
k) Engine mounting brackets (if not already

done).
l) Crankcase ventilation pipe and hoses.

m) Clutch.
n) Alternator mounting bracket.
o) Air conditioning compressor mounting

bracket (where applicable).

p) Engine lifting brackets.

Note: A puller will be required to remove the
crankshaft pulley. A new crankshaft pulley bolt,
a new timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly, new upper and lower timing chain
cover gaskets and a new camshaft cover
gasket and reinforcing sleeve sealing rings
must be used on refitting.

1 If the engine is in the car, carry out the

following operations.

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b) To improve access, remove the radiator. It

will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.

c) On carburettor models, remove the air

cleaner.

d) On fuel-injection models, remove the air

inlet hose, plenum chamber and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.

e) Disconnect the breather hose from the

camshaft cover.

f) Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,

and the rotor arm and housing.

2 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 11
inclusive of Section 18 (see illustration).
3 Remove the water pump/alternator
drivebelt.

15 Timing chain and sprockets -

removal and refitting

14 Engine dismantling - general

information

13 Engine mountings - renewal

2B•8 DOHC engine

1 Upper timing chain guide
2 Exhaust camshaft sprocket
3 Timing chain
4 Lower timing chain guide
5 Crankshaft sprocket (double)
6 Crankshaft
7 Oil pump chain tensioner
8 Oil pump drive chain
9 Oil pump

10 Oil pressure relief valve
11 Oil passage to timing chain tensioner

plunger
12 Plug
13 Timing chain tensioner plunger
14 Timing chain tensioner sprocket
15 Timing chain tensioner arm
16 Inlet camshaft sprocket
17 Copper chain links

15.2 Timing chain, oil pump drive chain and associated components

4 Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent

the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant press the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever.
5 Unscrew the bolt part way, and use a
suitable legged-puller to draw the crankshaft
pulley off the crankshaft. The legs of the puller
must be suitably shaped to enable them to
rest on the metal surfaces of the pulley. Note:

Do not attempt to remove the pulley with a
puller whose legs contact the rubber surface
of the pulley (see illustrations). Note that a

new crankshaft pulley retaining bolt will be
required for refitting.
6 Loosen the alternator lower mounting

through-bolt, then remove the alternator upper
mounting bolt, and swing the alternator away
from the engine.
7 Unscrew the central securing bolt, and
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly.
8 Unscrew the eleven securing bolts, and
remove the lower timing chain cover. Remove
the rubber gasket and discard it; a new one
must be used on refitting.
9 Using a suitable Torx socket, unscrew the
securing screw, and carefully withdraw the oil
pump chain tensioner (see illustration).
10 Unscrew the Torx type securing bolt, and
withdraw the oil pump sprocket, complete
with the oil pump drive chain.
11 Unscrew the two Torx bolts securing the
lower timing chain guide, noting their

locations, and withdraw the timing chain guide
through the top of the timing case (see

illustrations).
12 Remove the Woodruff key from the end of

the crankshaft, prising it free with a
screwdriver if necessary, then slide the double
chain sprocket from the end of the crankshaft,
and lift the chain from the sprocket (see

illustration).
13 Withdraw the timing chain through the top

of the timing case and, where applicable,
remove the cable-tie from the chain (see

illustration).
14 The timing chain, sprockets and tensioner

can now be examined for wear and damage.
15 Commence refitting as follows. Note that
coppered links are provided in the timing
chain to assist with refitting, but these can be
difficult to see on a chain which has already
been in service. If possible, position the
coppered links as described during the
following procedure. If the coppered links are
not visible, the chain should still be refitted as
described, but ignore the references to the
coppered links.
16 Make sure that the slot for the Woodruff
key in the end of the crankshaft is pointing
vertically downwards. If necessary,
temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley bolt in
order to turn the crankshaft to the required
position.
17 Lower the timing chain into the timing
case from above, with the single coppered link
at the bottom. If desired, use a cable-tie to

DOHC engine 2B•9

2B

15.5a Using a puller to remove the

crankshaft pulley (viewed from underneath

vehicle)

15.5b Position the legs of the puller on the
metal surfaces of the pulley (A), not the

rubber surface (B)

15.9 Oil pump chain tensioner securing
screw (arrowed)

15.12 Sliding the double chain sprocket
from the end of the crankshaft

15.11a Lower timing chain guide upper
securing bolt (arrowed)

15.13 Withdrawing the timing chain through
the top of the timing case

15.11b Lower timing chain guide lower
securing bolt (arrowed)

15.11c Withdrawing the lower timing chain
guide

prevent the chain from dropping into the
timing case, as during removal.
18 Locate the double chain sprocket loosely
over the end of the crankshaft (larger sprocket
nearest the crankcase), with the timing mark
pointing vertically down.
19 Fit the chain over the inner, larger
sprocket, aligning the coppered link in the
chain with the timing mark on the sprocket

(see illustration).
20 Coat the threads of the lower timing chain

guide lower securing bolt with a suitable
thread-locking compound.
21 Introduce the lower timing chain guide
through the top of the timing case,
manipulating the chain around the guide as
necessary, then fit the chain guide lower
securing bolt and tighten it finger-tight.
22 Push the double chain sprocket onto the
crankshaft, engaging the notch in the sprocket
with the groove in the end of the crankshaft.
23 Proceed as described in paragraphs 34 to 42
of Section 18, but when fitting the chain over the
camshaft sprockets, align the timing mark on
each sprocket between the two corresponding
coppered links in the chain.
24 Coat the threads of the lower timing chain
guide upper securing bolt with a suitable
thread-locking compound, then fit the bolt and
tighten it finger-tight.
25 Proceed as described in paragraphs 43 to 46
of Section 18.
26 Tighten the two chain guide securing bolts
to the specified torque.
27 Proceed as described in paragraphs 47 to 55
of Section 18.
28 Fit the oil pump drive chain around the
outer crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump
sprocket, then refit the oil pump sprocket, and
tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque. If necessary, a screwdriver can be
inserted through one of the holes in the
sprocket to prevent it from turning as the
securing bolt is tightened.
29 Refit the oil pump drive chain tensioner,
and tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque.
30 Refit the Woodruff key to the end of the
crankshaft.
31 Inspect the oil seal in the lower timing
chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition,

the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the
seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new
seal should be fitted to the cover. If necessary,
carefully prise the old oil seal from the cover
using a screwdriver, and drive in the new seal
using a suitable metal tube. Make sure that the
seal lip faces into the engine. Note that the oil
seal should be fitted dry. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover (see

illustration).
32 Fit the lower timing chain cover using a
new rubber gasket (see illustration).
33 Loosely refit the timing chain cover

securing bolts.
34 Refit the crankshaft pulley to the end of the
crankshaft, and draw the pulley onto the
crankshaft using the original securing bolt, at the
same time centering the lower timing chain cover.
35 With the lower timing chain cover
centralised, and the pulley fully home on the
crankshaft, remove the old securing bolt, then
fit a new bolt.
36 Tighten the new crankshaft pulley bolt to
the specified torque, in the two stages given in
the Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter. Prevent the crankshaft from turning
as during removal.
37 Tighten the lower timing chain cover
securing bolts to the specified torque.
38 Refit the drivebelt tensioner assembly,
ensuring that the lug on the rear of the
tensioner bracket engages with the
corresponding hole in the cylinder block, and
tighten the securing bolt.

39 Swing the alternator into position to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
assembly, then refit the upper mounting bolt,
and tighten the upper bolt and the lower
through-bolt.

40 Refit the water pump/alternator drivebelt.
41 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the

operations described in paragraph 1 of
Section 15.
42 Where applicable, refill the cooling
system.

1 Examine all the teeth on the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets. If the teeth are “hooked”
in appearance, renew the sprockets.
2 Examine the chain tensioner plastic
sprocket for wear. If excessive wear is evident,
the complete tensioner assembly must be
renewed as the sprocket cannot be renewed
independently. Note that the tensioner plunger
assembly must be renewed whenever the
timing chain is removed.
3 Examine the timing chain for wear. If the
chain has been in operation for a considerable
time, or if when held horizontally (rollers
vertical) it takes on a deeply bowed
appearance, renew it.

Note: The cylinder head must not be removed
when the engine is warm. Refer to the note at
the beginning of the following Section before
proceeding.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 On carburettor models, remove the air

cleaner.
3 On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid
as an assembly.

4 Drain the cooling system.
5 Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold (see illustration).

17 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine in vehicle)

16 Timing chain, sprockets and

tensioner - examination and

renovation

2B•10 DOHC engine

15.19 Coppered link in timing chain aligned
with crankshaft sprocket timing mark

(arrowed)

17.5 Disconnecting the heater coolant hose
from the inlet manifold

15.31 Fitting a new lower timing chain
cover oil seal

15.32 Lower timing chain cover gasket in
position. Ensure that lug on gasket

engages with notch in cover (arrowed)

6 Disconnect the breather hose from the

camshaft cover, and unbolt the hose bracket
from the left-hand side of the cylinder head

(see illustration).
7 Unscrew the securing bolt and disconnect

the earth lead from the left-hand rear of the
cylinder head.
8 Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing, as applicable.
If necessary, mark the HT leads to aid refitting.
9 The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds and fuel rail,
where applicable (it is easiest to remove the
head complete with the manifolds and fuel
rail). If desired, the inlet manifold and the fuel
rail can be unbolted and moved to one side,
leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
connected, but care must be taken not to
place any strain on them.
10 Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. It may be necessary to jack up the
front of the vehicle to gain access to the nuts
(in which case apply the handbrake and
support the front of the vehicle securely on
axle stands) (see “Jacking”). Discard the
gasket.
11 If the inlet manifold and the fuel rail (where
applicable) are to be removed with the cylinder
head, disconnect all relevant wires, hoses,
pipes and cables, otherwise, unbolt the
manifold and the fuel rail, and move them to
one side, ensuring that they are adequately
supported. If the fuel rail is unbolted, be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate
fire precautions.
12 Refer to the procedure described in
paragraphs 2 to 19 of Section 18 to complete
cylinder head removal.
13 Commence refitting by referring to
paragraphs 20 to 55 of Section 18, then
reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 1 to 11 of this Section, noting the
following points.

a) Use a new gasket when reconnecting the

exhaust downpipe to the manifold.

b) Ensure that the HT leads are reconnected

correctly.

c) Fill the cooling system.

Note: New cylinder head bolts, a new cylinder
head gasket, a new timing chain tensioner
plunger assembly, a new upper timing chain
cover gasket, and a new camshaft cover
gasket and reinforcing sleeve sealing rings
must be used on refitting. It is essential that
the three smaller M8 bolts are of the latest type
with hexagonal heads, not the earlier Torx type

(see illustration).

1 With the manifolds removed, proceed as
follows.
2 Unscrew the eleven bolts and four nuts, and
remove the camshaft cover. Recover the gasket.
3 Unscrew the four securing bolts and three
studs, and remove the upper timing chain
cover. Note the locations of the studs to aid
refitting.
4 Using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley,
turn the crankshaft to bring No 1 piston to the
firing point (TDC). With No 1 piston at the firing
point, the timing marks on the camshaft
sprockets should be pointing away from each
other, and should be approximately level with
the top edge of the cylinder head. Timing
notches are provided in the camshaft
sprockets, and corresponding paint marks are
provided on the outside edges of the
sprockets (see illustration).
5 Hold the inlet camshaft sprocket stationary
using a peg spanner which engages with the

spokes of the camshaft sprocket. Unscrew the
camshaft sprocket bolt, and remove the
distributor rotor shaft (see illustration).

6 Repeat the procedure given in paragraph 5
for the exhaust camshaft, but note that a spacer
is fitted in place of the distributor rotor shaft.
7 Squeeze the upper timing chain guide
securing lugs together, using pliers if
necessary, and withdraw the guide from the
plate at the front of the cylinder head (see

illustration).
8 Mark the position of the timing chain in

relation to the camshaft sprockets, so that the
chain can be refitted in precisely its original
position (ie, make alignment marks between
each sprocket and a corresponding link in the
chain), then slide the camshaft sprockets from
the camshafts. Withdraw the sprockets and
lay the timing chain over the exhaust side of
the timing case, having eliminated the slack in

18 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine removed)

DOHC engine 2B•11

2B

17.6 Hose bracket bolted to cylinder head
(arrowed)

18.0 Use new M8 (auxiliary) cylinder head
bolts with hexagonal heads (A), not the

earlier Torx type bolts (B)

18.4 Timing mark positions with No 1
cylinder at TDC

18.5 Removing the inlet camshaft sprocket
bolt and the distributor rotor shaft

18.7 Upper timing chain guide securing
lugs (arrowed)

If a peg spanner is not available,
a tool can be made from two
lengths of steel strip (one long,

the other short) and three nuts
and bolts; one nut and bolt forming the
pivot of a forked tool with the remaining
two nuts and bolts at the tips of the “forks”
to engage with the sprocket spokes.

the chain. Secure the chain using a cable-tie
through two of the chain links to prevent it
from dropping off the crankshaft sprocket.
9 Using a suitable pair of pliers, extract the
circlip from the chain tensioner arm pivot pin,
taking care not to drop it into the timing case,
then withdraw the pivot pin from the tensioner
arm. If the pivot pin proves difficult to
withdraw, an M6 bolt can be screwed into the
end to facilitate removal (see illustration).

10 Lift the tensioner arm from the timing case.
11 Lift the tensioner plunger assembly from the
cylinder head, and discard it (see illustration).

12 Take note of the markings on the camshaft

bearing caps, then progressively unscrew the
bearing cap securing nuts.
13 Remove the bearing cap securing nuts,
then lift off the camshaft oil spray bars, and
the timing chain guide plate (see illustration).
14 Lift off the bearing caps, and then lift out
the two camshafts (see illustrations).

15 Withdraw the cam followers from their
locations in the cylinder head, keeping them in
order so that they can be refitted in their

original locations (see illustration). It is
advisable to store the cam followers upright in
an oil bath until they are to be refitted. Ensure
that the depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover
the cam followers.
16 Working at the front of the cylinder head,
unscrew the three small M8 cylinder head
bolts which are accessible through the timing
case (see illustration).
17 Working in the reverse order to that shown
for tightening the cylinder head bolts (see
illustration), progressively loosen the
remaining cylinder head bolts, and withdraw
them from the cylinder head.
18 Lift the cylinder head from the block. If the
cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a soft­faced mallet. Do not insert a lever into the joint
between the cylinder head and block, as this
may result in damage to the mating faces.
Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
prevent damage to the valves.
19 Recover the gasket, and the locating
dowels if they are loose, noting the positions
of the locating dowels.

20 Commence refitting as follows.
21 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is

approximately 20.0 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
This precaution will prevent possible contact
between the valves and pistons.
22 Make sure that the mating faces of the
cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
clean, then refit the locating dowels (where
applicable) and locate a new gasket over the

2B•12 DOHC engine

18.9 Removing the chain tensioner arm
pivot pin circlip

18.15 Withdrawing a cam follower

18.14a Lifting off a camshaft bearing cap

18.16 M8 cylinder head bolts (arrowed)
located at front of cylinder head

18.14b Lifting out the exhaust camshaft

18.17 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence

A Long M8 bolts B Short M8 bolt

18.11 Lifting the chain tensioner plunger
assembly from the cylinder head

18.13 Lifting off a camshaft oil spray bar

The inlet camshaft is normally
identified by a green paint
mark. If necessary, identify
the camshafts so that they

can be refitted in their correct positions.

Warning: Take care when removing
the plunger assembly; injury could
result if the piston flies out. A new
timing chain tensioner plunger

assembly should be installed on refitting.

dowels. Note that the gasket can only fit in one
position (see illustration). Do not use jointing
compound.
23 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket,
making sure that the locating dowels engage.
24 Oil the threads of the new main cylinder
head bolts, and insert them into their locations
in the cylinder head.

25 Tighten the bolts in the order shown (see
illustration) and in the four stages given in the

Specifications.
26 Insert the three smaller M8 cylinder head
bolts through the top of the timing case (see
illustration) and tighten them to the specified
torque. Note that new bolts must be used, and
that they should be of the latest type with
hexagonal heads.
27 Lubricate the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head, and the cam followers
themselves, then insert the cam followers into
their original locations in the cylinder head.
28 Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces in
the cylinder head and the bearing caps.
29 Lubricate the surfaces of the camshafts,
then carefully lay the camshafts in their original
positions in the cylinder head. Position the
camshafts with the slots in their front ends
pointing away from each other.
30 Fit the bearing caps L1, L3, L5, R1, R3,
and R5 (see illustration), then lay the
camshaft oil spray bars and the timing chain
guide plate in position over the studs (see

illustrations).

31 Carefully tighten the bearing cap securing

nuts by hand in the following stages to lower
the camshafts into position.

Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L1 and R1

by half-a-turn (180°)

Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L5 and R5

by half-a-turn (180°)

Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L3 and R3

by half-a-turn (180°)

Continue to tighten the nuts in the small
stages given until the bearing caps contact the
cylinder head.
32 Fit bearing caps L2, L4, R2 and R4, and
tap them into position on the cylinder head
using light taps from a soft-faced mallet.
Tighten the securing nuts evenly by hand.
33 Tighten all the bearing cap nuts to the
specified torque in half turn stages, using the
following sequence.

L1 and R1
L5 and R5
L3 and R3
L2 and L4
R2 and R4

34 Fit a new chain tensioner plunger
assembly to the housing in the cylinder head
with the piston uppermost. Before fitting the
new plunger assembly, take note of the
position of the piston (see illustration). The
assembly is normally supplied with the piston
protruding slightly from the cylinder, or slightly

below the top surface of the cylinder (A). If the
new assembly is supplied with the piston
partially unlatched (B), or fully unlatched with
the latching ring visible (C), it must not be used.

35 Locate the chain tensioner arm in position,
then insert the pivot pin, and secure it with the
circlip. Take care not to drop the circlip into
the timing case.
36 Release the cable-tie securing the timing
chain, and lay the chain over the exhaust
camshaft sprocket, aligning the marks made
previously on the chain and sprocket, so that
the timing chain is taught on the exhaust side
of the engine.
37 Fit the sprocket to the exhaust camshaft,
with the camshaft in the TDC position (ie with
the exhaust camshaft sprocket timing mark in
line with the top edge of the cylinder head,
pointing to the exhaust side of the engine, see
paragraph 4). If necessary, use a pair of pliers
on one of the unmachined sections of the
camshaft to turn the camshaft to the TDC
position. Take care not to damage the
machined surfaces of the camshaft.
38 With the sprocket fitted, fit the spacer to
the end of the camshaft, and tighten the
securing bolt finger-tight (see illustration).
39 Lay the timing chain over the inlet

DOHC engine 2B•13

2B

18.22 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket 18.30a Camshaft bearing cap tightening
sequence

18.30b Camshaft oil spray bars correctly
fitted

18.30c Fitting the timing chain guide plate

18.34 Timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly

A Piston retracted - plunger assembly useable
B Piston partially unlatched - discard plunger

assembly

C Latching ring (1) visible - discard plunger

assembly

18.38 Spacer and sprocket securing bolt

fitted to end of camshaft, with camshaft in

TDC position (timing marks arrowed)

Warning: Take care when
installing the plunger assembly,
as there is a risk of injury if the
piston flies out.

camshaft sprocket, aligning the marks made
previously on the chain and the sprocket.
40 Fit the sprocket to the inlet camshaft, with
the camshaft in the TDC position (ie with the
inlet camshaft sprocket timing mark in line
with the top edge of the cylinder head,
pointing to the inlet side of the engine see
paragraph 4). Again, turn the camshaft if
necessary to enable the sprocket to be fitted.
41 With the sprocket fitted, fit the distributor
rotor shaft to the end of the camshaft, and
tighten the securing bolt finger-tight. Note that
it is acceptable for the timing chain to sag
slightly between the two pulleys.
42 Fit a new upper timing chain guide to the
plate at the front of the cylinder head.
43 Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the
inlet camshaft begins to turn.
44 If the chain tensioner plunger piston
protrudes from the cylinder, unlatch the piston by
pressing the chain tensioner arm down by hand.
45 If the plunger piston is below the top
surface of the cylinder, a tool must be
fabricated to unlatch the piston (see
illustration). It is suggested that 2.5 mm
diameter welding rod is used to manufacture
the tool. Use the tool to release the piston as
follows.
46 Carefully lift the chain tensioner arm with a
screwdriver, and insert the tool between the
tensioner arm and the piston. Remove the
screwdriver, and release the piston by
pressing the tensioner arm down by hand.
Carefully withdraw the tool once the piston
has been released.
47 Tighten the camshaft sprocket securing
bolts to the specified torque, holding the
sprockets stationary as during removal.
48 Turn the crankshaft clockwise through two
complete revolutions, and check that the
timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are
still aligned with the top face of the cylinder
head as described in paragraph 4.
49 Turn the crankshaft clockwise through
another complete revolution, and check that
the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets
are facing each other, directly in line with the
top face of the cylinder head.
50 If the timing marks do not align as
described, the timing chain has been
incorrectly fitted (probably one chain link away

from the correct position on one of the
camshaft sprockets), and the chain should be
removed from the sprockets and fitted in the
correct position.
51 Inspect the oil seal in the upper timing
chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition,
the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the
seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new
seal should be fitted to the cover. If necessary,
carefully prise the old oil seal from the cover
using a screwdriver, and drive in the new seal
using a suitable metal tube. Make sure that the
seal lip faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover.
52 Fit the upper timing chain cover using a
new rubber gasket. Great care must be taken
to avoid damage to the oil seal when passing
the seal over the end of the inlet camshaft.
Careful manipulation will be required (possibly
using a thin feeler blade) to avoid damage to
the oil seal sealing lip. Note that the oil seal
should be fitted dry.
53 Refit the timing chain cover securing bolts
and studs in their original locations and tighten
them to the specified torque (see illustration).
54 Remove the reinforcing sleeves from the
camshaft cover, and renew the rubber sealing
rings. Note that the four short reinforcing
sleeves fit at the front of the cover (see

illustration).
55 Refit the camshaft cover using a new

gasket, and tighten the securing bolts and
studs to the specified torque.

Note: A valve spring compressor will be
required during this procedure. New valve
stem oil seals should be used on reassembly.

Dismantle the cylinder head as described in
paragraphs 2 to 4, Section 12, Part A of this
Chapter and reassemble the head as
described in paragraphs 4 to 6, Section 42,
Part A of this Chapter, noting the following
points:

a) Ignore the references to the special tool.
b) Double valve springs are used on all the

valves (see illustration).

c) Refer to the following Section if the

cylinder head is to be inspected and
renovated.

Refer to Part A, Section 34 of this Chapter,

noting the following points.

a) Valve and valve seat cutting and

regrinding can be carried out using
conventional tools.

b) The cylinder head cannot be resurfaced,

and if the surface distortion exceeds the
specified limits, the cylinder head must be
renewed.

Note: Once the timing chain has been
removed from the camshaft sprockets, do not
turn the crankshaft until the timing chain has
been correctly refitted - this is to prevent
contact between the valves and pistons. A
new timing chain tensioner plunger assembly,
a new upper timing chain cover gasket, and a
new camshaft cover and reinforcing sleeve
sealing rings must be used on refitting.

1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations.

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b) On carburettor models, remove the air

cleaner.

c) On fuel-injection models, remove the air

inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.

21 Camshafts and cam followers

- removal, inspection and
refitting

20 Cylinder head - inspection and

renovation

19 Cylinder head - dismantling

and reassembly

2B•14 DOHC engine

18.45 Fabricated tool used to unlatch
tensioner plunger piston

19.1 Withdrawing the double valve springs
from the cylinder head

18.53 Upper timing chain cover securing
stud locations (arrowed)

18.54 Fitting a camshaft cover reinforcing
sleeve and sealing ring

d) Disconnect the breather hose from the

camshaft cover.

e) Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,

and the rotor arm and housing. If
necessary, mark the HT leads to aid
refitting.

2 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 15
inclusive of Section 18.
3 Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the contact surfaces of
the cam followers for wear. If wear is
excessive, considerable noise would have
been noticed from the top of the engine when
running, and new camshafts and followers
must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of
wear will occur unless a considerable mileage
has been covered. Note that the cam followers
cannot be dismantled for renewal of individual
components.
4 Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the
cylinder head and the bearing caps for wear. If
excessive wear is evident, the only course of
action available is to renew the cylinder head
complete with bearing caps.
5 Check the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the cylinder head must be renewed.
6 Check the cam follower oil grooves and the
oil ports in the cylinder head for obstructions.
7 Refit the cam followers and the camshafts as
described in paragraphs 27 to 55 of Section 18.
8 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 1.

Refer to Part A, Section 15 of this Chapter,

noting the following points.

a) If the engine is in the car, refer to Chapter

6 when removing and refitting the clutch,
where applicable.

b) The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts

must be renewed on refitting; the new
bolts are supplied ready-coated with
thread-locking compound (see

illustration).

c) Check on the availability of new parts

before contemplating renewal of the ring
gear.

Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt and a new lower timing
chain cover gasket must be used on refitting.

1 The crankshaft front oil seal is located in the
lower timing chain cover.
2 If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations.

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b) To improve access, remove the radiator. It

will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.

c) On fuel-injection models, remove the air

inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.

3 Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 8
of Section 15.
4 With the lower timing chain cover removed,
prise the old oil seal from the cover using a
screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a
suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal lip
faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover. Note that the
seal should be fitted dry.
5 Refit the lower timing chain cover as
described in paragraphs 32 to 40 of Section 15.
6 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 2.

Note: New flywheel/driveplate bolts must be
used on refitting.

1 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
2 Extract the seal using an oil seal removal tool
if available. It may also be possible to remove
the oil seal by drilling the outer face and using
self-tapping screws and a pair of grips.
3 Clean the oil seal housing, then carefully
wind a thin layer of tape around the edge of
the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lip as the
seal is installed.
4 Install a new oil seal. Make sure that the seal
lip faces into the engine (see illustration).

5 With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
6 Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.

Note: A new sump gasket will be required on
refitting, and suitable sealing compound will
be required to coat the sump and cylinder
block mating faces. Shims may be required
when mating the gearbox/transmission.

1 Sump removal and refitting is far easier if
the engine is removed from the vehicle,
however if the engine is in the vehicle, proceed
as follows. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle, proceed to paragraph 9.
2 Remove the clutch or automatic
transmission, as applicable.
3 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.

4 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
5 Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned

in the straight-ahead position then, using a
dab of paint or a marker pen, make alignment
marks between the intermediate shaft lower
clamp and steering gear pinion. Slacken and
remove the lower clamp bolt then disconnect
the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
6 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
7 Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
8 Support the crossmember with a jack, then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to
the underbody. Remove the bolts and carefully
lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow
the sump to be removed.
9 If the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep it upright until the sump has
been removed to prevent sludge from entering
the engine internals.
10 Unscrew the sump securing nuts and
bolts, and withdraw the sump from the engine.
Do not prise between the mating faces of the
sump and cylinder block. Discard the old
gasket.

11 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
12 Commence refitting by locating a new
gasket in the grooves in the sump.

25 Sump - removal and refitting

24 Crankshaft rear oil seal -

renewal

23 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal

22 Flywheel/driveplate - removal

inspection and refitting

DOHC engine 2B•15

2B

22.1 Improvised tool used to hold flywheel
when tightening securing bolts

24.4 Tool used to fit the oil seal

A Rear oil seal housing
B Special tool

A tool can be improvised using
a metal tube, a metal disc or
flat bar, and two flywheel
bolts. Draw the seal into

position using the two flywheel bolts.

If the sump is stuck, gently
tap it sideways to free it (the
sump will not move far
sideways, as it locates on

studs in the cylinder block).

13 Apply a sealing compound to the faces of
the cylinder block and sump at the points
indicated (see illustration).
14 Apply suitable thread-locking compound
to the sump securing studs and bolts, then
locate the sump on the cylinder block and fit
the securing nuts and bolts, but do not fully
tighten them at this stage.
15 Align the sump so that the end faces and
the cylinder block are flush. To do this, use a
straight-edge. If the sump cannot be
positioned so that the faces of the cylinder
block and sump are flush, measure the
difference in height using a feeler blade as
shown (see illustration).
16 Tighten the sump securing nuts and bolts
to the specified torque, then repeat the
measurement made in paragraph 15. If the
end faces of the sump and cylinder block are
not flush, suitable shims must be fitted
(available from a Ford dealer) between the
sump and the gearbox/transmission to
eliminate the clearance when mating the
engine to the gearbox/transmission. Note that
shims should be fitted at both sides of the
sump, as required. Select suitable shims from
those listed in the following table.

Clearance measured Shims required

0 to 0.25 mm No shims required

0.25 to 0.29 mm 0.15 mm (silver)

0.30 to 0.44 mm 0.30 mm (light blue)

0.45 to 0.59 mm 0.45 mm (red)

0.60 to 0.75 mm 0.60 mm (black)

17 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
procedure described in paragraphs 3 to 8,
noting the following points.

a) Ensure that the roadwheels and the

steering wheel are in the straight-ahead

position then align the marks made on
removal and reconnect the intermediate
shaft to the steering gear. Tighten the
clamp bolt to the specified torque.

b) Fill the engine with the correct grade and

quantity of oil.

c) Refit the engine adapter plate and the

flywheel/driveplate.

d) Refit the gearbox or automatic

transmission, as applicable, ensuring that
the required shims are fitted between the
sump and the gearbox/transmission.

e) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque

where applicable.

Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt, a new lower timing
chain cover gasket and a new oil pump gasket
must be used on refitting.

1 If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations.

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b) To Improve access, remove the radiator. It

will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.

c) On fuel-injection models, remove the air

inlet hose, plenum chamber and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.

2 Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 10
of Section 15.

3 Unscrew the four securing bolts and
withdraw the oil pump from the cylinder block
(see illustration). Recover the gasket and
discard it.
4 If desired, the pump can now be dismantled
and inspected.
5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
pump and the cylinder block.
6 Prime the pump by injecting clean engine oil
into it and turning it by hand.
7 Place a new gasket on the oil pump flange,
ensuring that the gasket is correctly located so
that the holes align with the oil passages in the
pump.
8 Fit the oil pump, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
9 Proceed as described in paragraphs 28 to 40
of Section 15.
10 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.

1 The oil pump can be dismantled for
cleaning, but if any of the components are
worn, the pump must be renewed as an
assembly.

2 To dismantle the pump, proceed as follows.
3 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
remove the pump cover (see illustration).
4 Lift the inner and outer rotors from the

pump casing.

5 Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug from

27 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

26 Oil pump - removal and

refitting

2B•16 DOHC engine

25.13 Apply sealing compound to the

sump/cylinder block mating faces at the

points indicated (2)

Dimensions are for guidance only

27.3 Removing the oil pump cover 27.5a Unscrew the pressure relief valve
plug and washer . . .

25.15 Measuring the clearance between the
cylinder block and sump end faces

26.3 Oil pump securing bolts (arrowed)

the pump cover, recover the washer, and
withdraw the spring and plunger (see

illustrations).
6 Thoroughly clean all components in petrol

or paraffin, and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag.
7 Examine the rotors and the pump casing for
signs of excessive wear on the machined
surfaces. If wear is evident, the complete
pump assembly must be renewed, as spare
parts are not available individually.
8 Commence reassembly by lubricating the
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and the
spring, and screw the plug into place, ensuring
that the washer is in place under the plug.
9 Lubricate the rotors, and fit them to the
pump casing with the punch marks facing the
pump cover (see illustration).
10 Refit the pump cover and tighten the
securing bolts.

11 Prime the pump before refitting.

1 Examine all the teeth on the sprockets. If the

teeth are “hooked” in appearance, renew the
sprockets.
2 Examine the chain tensioner for wear and
renew it if necessary.
3 Examine the chain for wear. If it has been in
operation for a considerable time, or if when
held horizontally (rollers vertical) it takes on a
deeply bowed appearance, renew it.

Note: New connecting rod bolts and a new oil
pick-up pipe gasket must be used on refitting.

1 Remove the sump and the cylinder head.
2 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and

remove the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).
Recover the gasket and discard it.
3 Unscrew the four securing nuts and
withdraw the oil baffle from the studs on the
main bearing caps (see illustration).
4 Removal is as described in Part A, Section 21,
paragraphs 2 to 5 of this Chapter, and refitting
as described in Part A, Section 37, noting the
following additional points:

a) Take note of the orientation of the bearing

shells during dismantling, and ensure that
they are fitted correctly during reassembly.

b) When fitting the pistons, ensure that the

arrow on the piston crown and the letter F
on the face of the connecting rod are
pointing towards the front of the engine.

c) Use new connecting rod bolts on

reassembly; before fitting, oil the threads
and the contact faces of the bolts. Tighten
the bolts to the three stages given in the
Specifications.

d) Refit the oil baffle and tighten the securing

nuts.

e) Clean the mating faces of the cylinder

block and the oil pick-up pipe, and refit
the pick-up pipe using a new gasket.

f) Refit the cylinder head and the sump.

Note: A new crankshaft rear oil seal and a new
rear oil seal housing gasket should be used on
reassembly.

1 With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the timing chain and crankshaft
sprocket, and the flywheel/driveplate.
2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
3 Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing
and remove it from the rear of the cylinder
block. Recover the gasket and discard it.
4 Unscrew the two securing bolts and remove
the sump mounting plate from the front of the
cylinder block (see illustration).
5 Check the main bearing caps for identification
marks, and if necessary use a centre punch to
identify them (see illustration).
6 Before removing the crankshaft, check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and one of the thrustwashers
(the thrustwashers are fitted to the crankcase,
not the bearing cap). This will indicate whether
or not new thrustwashers are required.
7 Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells.
8 Lift the crankshaft from the cylinder block,
and remove the rear oil seal if it is still in place
on the crankshaft.

30 Crankshaft and main bearings

- removal and refitting

29 Pistons and connecting rods

- removal and refitting

28 Oil pump drive chain and

sprockets - examination and

renovation

DOHC engine 2B•17

2B

27.5b . . . and withdraw the spring and
plunger

27.9 The punch marks (arrowed) on the oil
pump rotors must face the pump cover

29.2 Removing the oil pick-up pipe

29.3 Withdrawing the oil baffle 30.4 Unscrewing a sump mounting plate
securing bolt

30.5 Main bearing cap identification mark
(arrowed)

9 Extract the bearing shells, and recover the

thrustwashers, keeping them identified for
location.
10 The crankshaft and bearings can be
examined and if necessary renovated.

11 Commence refitting as follows (see
illustration).
12 Wipe the bearing shell locations in the

crankcase, and the crankshaft journals with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
13 If the old main bearing shells are to be
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their
locations in the crankcase.
14 Fit the thrustwashers to the centre main
bearing location, using a little grease to retain
them if necessary. The oil grooves in the
thrustwashers must face outwards (ie facing
the crankshaft webs). Note that where
standard thrustwashers have been fitted in
production, the centre main bearing is
unmarked, but if oversize (0.38 mm)
thrustwashers have been fitted, the centre
main bearing will carry a yellow paint mark.
15 Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil, then carefully lower the
crankshaft into the crankcase.
16 Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, and then fit the main bearing caps
in their correct locations, with the arrows on the
caps pointing towards the front of the engine.
17 Fit the main bearing cap bolts, noting that
the studded bolts secure bearing caps Nos 3
and 5.
18 Lightly tighten all the securing bolts, then
progressively tighten all bolts to the specified
torque.
19 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with new

components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
20 Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
21 Refit the sump mounting plate to the front
of the cylinder block, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
22 Carefully wind a thin layer of tape around
the rear edge of the crankshaft to protect the
oil seal lips as the rear oil seal is installed.
23 Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
using a new gasket, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
24 Install the new oil seal with reference to
Section 24.
25 With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
26 Refit the pistons and connecting rods as
described previously in this Chapter.
27 Refit the flywheel/driveplate, and the
timing chain and crankshaft sprocket.

Proceed as described in Part A, Section 27
of this Chapter, noting that the production
bearing undersizes are indicated as follows.

Yellow or red paint marks on crankshaft —

standard diameter main bearing journals.

Green line on crankshaft front counterweight

— main bearing journals 0.25 mm
undersize.

Green spot on counterweight — big-end

bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize.

Refer to Part A, Section 25 of this Chapter,
but note that the connecting rod bolts should
be renewed on reassembly, and when
renewing the cylinder head bolts, the latest
type bolts with hexagonal heads should
always be used.

Proceed as described in Part A, Section 35
of this Chapter, noting the following points.

a) If the cylinder head has been removed,

pay particular attention to the note at the
beginning of Section 18.

b) If removed during any dismantling

operations, new flywheel driveplate bolts
and connecting rod bolts must be used.

c) After reassembling the main engine

components, refer to paragraph 3 of
Section 14 and refit the ancillary
components listed.

Refer to Part A, Section 51 of this Chapter,
but note that when the engine is first started, a
metallic tapping noise may be heard. This is
due to the timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly taking time to pressurize with oil,
resulting in a temporarily slack chain. The
noise should stop after a short time, once oil
pressure has built up.

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2 The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.
3 Disable the ignition system by dismantling
the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6 Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9 On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.

35 Compression test -

description and interpretation

34 Initial start-up after overhaul

or major repair

33 Engine reassembly - general

information

32 Examination and renovation -

general information

31 Crankshaft and bearings -

examination and renovation

2B•18 DOHC engine

30.11 Crankshaft main bearings and
associated components

1 Bearing cap
2 Thrustwasher
3 Stud for oil baffle
4 Identification markings
5 Bearing shell without oil groove
6 Bearing shell with oil groove
7 Bearing seat in cylinder block

Chapter 2 Part C:

2.4, 2.8 and 2.9 litre V6 engines

Ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .22

Camshaft and intermediate plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Camshaft and intermediate plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Crankshaft and bearings - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Cylinder bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Cylinder heads - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Cylinder heads - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Cylinder heads - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Engine - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Engine - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine dismantling - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Examination and renovation - general infomation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Flywheel ring gear - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .2

Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Methods of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Oil pump - dismantling, examination and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . .27

Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . .25

Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Rocker shaft - dismantling, examination and reassembly . . . . . . . .20

Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Tappets and pushrods - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Timing cover and drive - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Timing cover and drive - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

2.8 litre engine

General

Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PRE

Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.0 (3.66)

Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.5 (2.70)

Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2792 (170)

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.2:1

Compression pressure at cranking speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.5 to 12.5 bar (167 to 181 lbf/in

2

)

Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 @ 5800

Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 @ 3000

Lubrication system

Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants and fluids”

Oil capacity (drain and refill, including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25 litres (7.5 pints) approx

Oil pressure (SAE 10W/30 oil at 80°C/176°F):

At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar

Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 4.7 bar

Oil pressure warning light switch setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 bar

2C•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

2C

2C•2 V6 engines

Oil pump

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bi-rotor

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . From camshaft

Operating clearances:

Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.30 mm

Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.20 mm

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 to 0.10 mm

Cylinder block

Cast identification mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E

Bore diameter:

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.010 to 93.020 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.020 to 93.030 mm

Standard grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.030 to 93.040 mm

Standard grade 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.040 to 93.050 mm

Oversize grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.520 to 93.530 mm

Oversize grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.530 to 93.540 mm

Oversize grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.540 to 93.550 mm

Standard service grade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.040 to 93.050 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.540 to 93.550 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94.040 to 94.050 mm

Main bearing parent bore:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.620 to 60.640 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.000 to 61.020 mm

Camshaft bearing bore (without bushes):

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.025 to 47.060 mm

Front centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.645 to 46.680 mm

Rear centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.265 to 46.300 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.885 to 45.920 mm

Crankshaft

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Main bearing journal diameter (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.980 to 57.000 mm

Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.008 to 0.062 mm

No 3 (thrust) bearing shoulder width (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.390 to 26.440 mm

No 3 (thrust) flanged bearing shell width (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.240 to 26.290 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 to 0.20 mm

Big-end bearing journal diameter (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53.980 to 54.000 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.064 mm

Pistons

Diameter:

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92.972 to 92.982 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92.982 to 92.992 mm

Standard grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92.992 to 93.002 mm

Standard grade 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.002 to 93.012 mm

Service standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.000 to 93.020 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.500 to 93.520 mm)

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94.000 to 94.020 mm

Clearance in bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.050 mm

Piston ring end gaps:

Top and centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.38 to 0.58 mm

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 1.40 mm

Gudgeon pins

Diameter:

Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.994 to 23.997 mm

Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.997 to 24.000 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.008 to 0.014 mm

Interference in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.018 to 0.042 mm

Connecting rods

Big-end parent bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.820 to 56.840 mm

Small-end bush internal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.958 to 23.976 mm

Cylinder heads

Cast identification mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . EN

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44° 30’ to 45° 00’

Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.61 to 2.33 mm

Valve guide bore:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.063 to 8.088 mm

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm

V6 engines 2C•3

2C

Camshaft

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear

Gear backlash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.17 to 0.27 mm

Valve timing:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26° 30’ BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69° 30’ ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75° 30’ BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22° 30’ ATDC

Cam lift:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.7 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.6 mm

Cam length:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.995 to 36.165 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.895 to 36.065 mm

Thrust plate thickness:

Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.960 to 3.985 mm

Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.986 to 4.011 mm

Spacer thickness:

Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.075 to 4.100 mm

Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.101 to 4.125 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 to 0.10 mm

Bearing journal diameter:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.903 to 43.923 mm

Front centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.522 to 43.542 mm

Rear centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.141 to 43.161 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.760 to 42.780 mm

Bearing bush internal diameter:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.948 to 43.968 mm

Front centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.567 to 43.587 mm

Rear centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.186 to 43.206 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.805 to 42.825 mm

Valve clearances (cold)

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 mm (0.014 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 mm (0.016 in)

Inlet valves

Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.85 to 42.24 mm

Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105.25 to 106.95 mm

Stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm

Stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.063 mm

Valve stem oil seal type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rubber, one size

Exhaust valves

Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.83 to 36.21 mm

Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105.20 to 106.20 mm

Stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.999 to 8.017 mm

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm

Stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.046 to 0.089 mm

Valve stem oil seal:

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nylon, selective sizes

Identification:

Standard size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . White

+ 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Red

+ 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Blue

+ 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Green

+ 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Black

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 104 66 to 77

Big-end cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 33 19 to 24

Crankshaft pulley/damper central bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 to 130 85 to 96

Camshaft gear bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 to 50 31 to 37

Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

Timing cover to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

2C•4 V6 engines

Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm lbf ft

Timing cover to intermediate plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 17 10 to 13

Intermediate plate to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

Oil pump to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 17 10 to 13

Oil pump cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

Rocker shaft securing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 to 70 46 to 52

Sump bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 7 3 to 5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 10 5 to 7

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 16 to 21

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 15 9 to 11

Oil cooler threaded sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 40 15 to 30

Cylinder head hexagon bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 45 30 to 33

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 70 41 to 52

Stage 3 (after 10 to 20 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 to 115 70 to 85

Stage 4 (after warm-up) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 to 115 70 to 85

Cylinder head - Torx bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 75 52 to 55

Stage 3 (after 5 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°

Rocker cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Fuel pump blanking plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 18 12 to 13

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 to 70 47 to 52

Bellhousing-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 to 30 20 to 22

2.4 litre engine

Note: Unless otherwise stated, the specifications and torque wrench settings for the 2.4 litre engine are as given for the 2.8 litre engine.

General

Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ARC

Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.0 (3.307)

Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72.0 (2.865)

Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2394 (146.1)

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1

Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 @ 5800

Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 @ 3000

Cylinder block

Identification mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D

Bore diameter:

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.000 to 84.010 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.010 to 84.020 mm

Standard grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.020 to 84.030 mm

Standard grade 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.030 to 84.040 mm

Oversize grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.510 to 84.520 mm

Oversize grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.520 to 84.530 mm

Oversize grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.530 to 84.540 mm

Standard service grade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.030 to 84.040 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.530 to 84.540 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85.030 to 85.040 mm

Pistons

Diameter:

Standard grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.962 to 83.972 mm

Standard grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.972 to 83.982 mm

Standard grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.982 to 83.992 mm

Standard grade 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.992 to 84.002 mm

Standard service grade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.978 to 84.002 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.478 to 84.502 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.978 to 85.002 mm

Clearance in bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.028 to 0.048 mm

Piston ring end gap:

Top and centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Bottom (oil control) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 1.40 mm

Cylinder head

Identification mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . H

V6 engines 2C•5

2C

Crankshaft

Thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.28 to 2.33 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.48 to 2.53 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 to 0.32 mm

Permitted undersize for main and big-end bearing journals . . . . . . . . . . 0.254 mm

Camshaft

Camshaft drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chain

Cam lift (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.72 mm

Cam lobe height (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.08 to 36.25 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.065 to 0.165 mm

Thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.02 to 4.05 mm

Valves

Valve timing:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24°BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64°ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66°BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22°ATDC

Head diameter:

Inlet valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.67 to 40.06 mm

Exhaust valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.83 to 34.21 mm

Length:

Inlet valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106.2 to 106.9 mm

Exhaust valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106.1 to 107.1 mm

Valve spring free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.12 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 to 68 44 to 50

Camshaft thrust plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

Timing chain guide to block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 12 7 to 9

Timing chain tensioner to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 7 to 8

Oil inlet pipe to oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

Oil pump to block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 15

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21

Crankshaft pulley to vibration damper bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 to 33 20 to 24

Crankshaft vibration damper bolt:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 50 30 to 37

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 80° to 90° Tighten further 80° to 90°

2.9 litre engine

Note: Unless otherwise stated, the specifications and torque wrench settings for the 2.9 litre engine are as given for the 2.8 litre engine.

General

Manufacturer’s code:

Models without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BRC

Models equipped with type N manual gearbox or automatic

transmission and a catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BRD

Models equipped with MT75 manual gearbox and catalytic converter . . BRE

Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72.0 (2.835)

Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2936 (179.2)

Compression ratio:

BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1

BRD and BRE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0:1

Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm):

BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 @ 5700

BRD and BRE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 @ 5500

Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm):

BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 @ 3000

BRD engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 @ 3000

BRE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 @ 3000

Cylinder block

Identification mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F

Pistons

Clearance in bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.028 to 0.048 mm

Piston ring end gaps:

Top and centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

The V6 engine fitted to the Granada is only
available in fuel-injected form. Mechanically,
the design of the engine is well-established,
and it is improved by the latest fuel, ignition and
engine management systems (see illustration).

The combined crankcase and cylinder block
is made of cast iron, and houses the pistons,
crankshaft and camshaft. The sump is
attached to the bottom of the crankcase and
the cylinder heads to the top.

The cylinder heads are of the crossflow
design, the inlet manifold being located
between them and the exhaust manifolds
being on the outboard sides. The overhead
valves are operated by tappets, pushrods and
rockers from the centrally located camshaft.
Camshaft drive is by gears (2.8 litre) or chain
(2.4 & 2.9 litre).

The crankshaft runs in four main bearings.
Endfloat is controlled by thrust flanges on the
No 3 bearing shells. The connecting rods are
selected so that all are in the same weight class.

Aluminium alloy pistons are used. The
gudgeon pins are an interference fit in their
connecting rods.

The lubrication system is of the usual wet
sump, pressure fed type, with a full-flow
disposable canister oil filter. The oil pump is
driven by a shaft which engages in the bottom
of the distributor drivegear.

The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine, although some
work will be easier and quicker with the engine
removed.

a) Removal and refitting of the cylinder

heads

b) Removal and refitting of the sump and oil

pump
c) Removal and refitting of the timing gears
d) Removal and refitting of the pistons,

connecting rods and big-end bearings
e) Renewal of the engine mountings
f) Removal and refitting of the flywheel
g) Renewal of the crankshaft front and rear

oil seals
h) Removal and refitting of the camshaft

(after removal of the cylinder heads,

tappets and timing gears)

The engine must be removed for the

following operations:

a) Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b) Removal and refitting of the crankshaft

The engine is removed from above, without
the transmission. Removal with the
transmission is not recommended because of
the weight and unwieldiness of the combined
units.

2.8 litre engine

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the bonnet.
3 Remove the throttle valve cover, which is

retained by three screws.

4 Remove the air cleaner cover, valve airflow

5 Engine - removal

4 Methods of engine removal

3 Major operations requiring

engine removal

2 Major operations possible with

the engine in the vehicle

1 General information

2C•6 V6 engines

Cylinder head

Identification mark:

BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F

BRD and BRE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K

Crankshaft

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 to 0.24 mm

Permitted undersize for main and big-end bearing journals . . . . . . . . . . 0.254 mm

Camshaft

Cam lift (inlet and exhaust):

BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.72 mm

BRD and BRE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.54 mm

Cam lobe height (inlet and exhaust):

BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.08 to 36.25 mm

BRD and BRE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.22 to 36.41 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.065 to 0.165 mm

Thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.02 to 4.05 mm

Valves

Valve timing:

BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As 2.4 litre V6

BRD and BRE engines:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30°BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66°ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76°BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20°ATDC

Length:

BRC engine:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106.2 to 106.9 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106.8 to 107.8 mm

BRD and BRE engine:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104.7 to 105.4 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104.6 to 105.6 mm

Valve spring free length:

BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.12 mm

BRD and BRE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53.00 mm

meters and air inlet trunking. Also remove the
oil filler cap, which is connected to the
trunking by a crankcase ventilation hose.
5 Release the securing clips and bolts and
remove the upper half of the fan shroud.
6 Drain the cooling system and remove the
radiator.
7 Disconnect the heater hoses from the
heater matrix and from the coolant outlet.
Unclip the hoses.
8 Remove the fan and viscous clutch (where
fitted).
9 Disconnect the following wiring:

a) Alternator
b) Temperature gauge sender
c) Engine management temperature sensor
d) Oil pressure switch
e) Idle speed control valve
f) Throttle position sensor
g) Injector nut-harness
h) Distributor multi-plug
i) Distributor-to-coil HT lead

10 Disconnect the throttle cable. When
applicable, also disconnect the downshaft
cable or switch.
11 Depressurise the fuel system and
disconnect the fuel supply and return lines
(see Chapter 4).
12 Remove the steering pump and air
conditioning compressor drivebelts (as
applicable). Unbolt the steering pump and
compressor, move them aside within the limits

of their flexible hoses and support them by
wiring them to adjacent components.

13 Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
14 Remove the starter motor.
15 Drain the engine oil. Unscrew the oil filter

with a strap or chain wrench and remove it; be
prepared for oil spillage.
16 On manual gearbox models, disconnect
the clutch cable from the release lever.
17 Unbolt the exhaust pipes from the
manifolds.
18 On automatic transmission models, unbolt
the torque converter from the driveplate.
19 Attach lifting tackle to the engine. If no
lifting eyes are fitted, pass ropes or chains
round the exhaust manifolds.
20 Take the weight of the engine, then
remove the single nut on each side which
holds engine bearer to its mountings.
21 From under the vehicle unbolt the engine
adapter plate from the bellhousing.
22 Remove the engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
Also disconnect or unclip the battery negative
lead, the starter motor lead and the heat
shield.
23 Support the transmission, preferably with
a trolley jack.
24 Check that nothing has been overlooked,
then raise the engine and draw it forwards
clear of the transmission input shaft. Do not
allow the weight of the engine to hang on the
shaft, and do not lift the transmission by it.

25 With automatic transmission, make sure
that the torque converter stays engaged with
the oil pump in the transmission as the engine
is withdrawn.
26 Lift the engine out of the engine bay and
take it to the bench.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

27 The removal operations for these engines
are essentially as described for the 2.8 litre
version. Note the following points.

Coolant hoses

28 Remove the hoses which run between the

thermostat housing and the water pump, and
the cooling system expansion tank.
29 Remove the heater hoses which run
between the thermostat housing or coolant
distribution pipe and oil cooler (where fitted).

Vacuum hoses

30 Disconnect the hose from the fuel

pressure regulator.
31 Disconnect the hose from the plenum
chamber.

32 Disconnect the hose from the throttle valve.
33 Disconnect the hose from the T-piece

connector.

V6 engines 2C•7

2C

1.1 Exploded view of V6 engine

1 Water inlet connection
2 Thermostat
3 Water pump
4 Timing cover
5 By-pass hose flange
7 Camshaft thrust plate
8 Camshaft gear
9 Crankshaft gear
10 Flywheel
11 Crankshaft pilot

bearing
12 Oil seal
13 Oil pump drive shaft
14 Main bearing
15 Oil pump

It may be necessary to rock
the engine a little to release it
from the gearbox.

Other items

34 Disconnect the throttle cable from the

operating lever and bracket.
35 Disconnect the right-hand exhaust
downpipe from the manifold then remove the
starter motor, the oil filter, and disconnect the
left-hand exhaust downpipe, in that order.

Refer to Part A, Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 8

of this Chapter.

Cylinder head bolts on the V6 engine may
be conventional (hexagon-headed) or Torx
type. The appropriate Torx key will be needed
to deal with the latter.

Before dismantling the engine into its main
components, the following ancillaries can be
removed. The actual items removed, and the
sequence of removal, will depend on the work
to be done.

Distributor and bracket

Spark plugs

Inlet manifold and associated items

Exhaust manifolds

Clutch

Alternator and bracket

Oil pressure switch (see illustration)

Temperature gauge sender
Engine bearer arms
Dipstick

If an oil cooler is fitted between the oil filter
and the block, remove it by disconnecting the
coolant hoses and unscrewing the central
sleeve. The cooler and seal can now be
removed. If the threaded bush is removed
from the block (it may come out with the
sleeve) it must be renewed.

The procedure is described for the engine in
the vehicle. With the engine removed, the
preliminary steps can be ignored.

2.8 litre engine

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the inlet manifold and associated

components.
3 Unbolt the power steering pump, remove
the drivebelts and move the pump aside.
Support it by wiring it to adjacent
components.

4 Remove the alternator and its bracket.
5 Remove the three bolts which secure each

rocker shaft. Remove the shafts and
pushrods, keeping them in order so that they
can be refitted in the same locations.
6 Unbolt the exhaust pipes from the
manifolds.

7 Remove the spark plugs.

8 Slacken the cylinder head bolts half a turn at

a time, following the reverse sequence to that
used when tightening (see illustration 38.5).
Remove the bolts.
9 Remove the cylinder heads. If they are
stuck, try to rock them free, or tap them with a
soft-faced hammer. Do not hit them directly
with a metal hammer, and do not lever in
between the joint faces.
10 Recover the head gaskets.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

11 Disconnect the battery and drain the
cooling system.
12 Disconnect the radiator top hose and the
heater hose from the thermostat housing.
13 Disconnect the air hoses from the throttle
valve housing (see illustration).
14 Detach the two wiring plugs from the
airflow sensors (see illustrations).

15 Pull the breather hose from the oil filler cap
(see illustration).
16 Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it

together with the airflow sensors and air hoses.
17 Disconnect the hoses from the coolant
expansion tank.
18 Disconnect the wiring from the following
components:

a) Alternator (right-hand cylinder head

removal only).

b) Coolant temperature sensors (see

illustration).

c) Idle speed control valve (see illustration).
d) Throttle valve potentiometer.
e) The fuel-injector wiring loom.

8 Cylinder heads - removal

7 Ancillary components - removal

6 Engine dismantling - general

2C•8 V6 engines

7.1 The oil pressure switch is on the left­hand side of the block

8.14b Throttle position sensor wiring plug

Vacuum nozzles arrowed

8.14a Front airflow sensor wiring plug

8.15 Oil filler breather hose (arrowed) 8.18a Coolant temperature sensor location

8.13 Disconnecting the air hoses from the
throttle valve housing

19 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the

ignition distributor and the fuel temperature
sensor (see illustrations).
20 Release the pressure in the fuel distributor
pipe by depressing the pin in the vent valve.
Cover the valve with a rag during this
operation to prevent fuel being sprayed out

(see illustration).
21 Disconnect the fuel lines (see illustration).
22 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the

following components:

a) Fuel pressure regulator.
b) Throttle valve assembly.
c) T-piece connector (see illustration).

23 Disconnect the rocker cover breather hose
(see illustration).
24 Unbolt the plenum chamber and place it to

one side with the throttle cable attached.

25 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the ignition coil noting their correct
fitted locations. Undo the two retaining screws
then remove the distributor cap and HT leads
as an assembly.
26 Using a 19 mm socket on the crankshaft
damper centre bolt, set No 1 piston to its firing
point (12° BTDC) and remove the distributor.
27 If the right-hand cylinder head is to be
removed, remove the drivebelts, unbolt the
alternator and power steering pump and tie
them to one side of the engine compartment.

28 Unbolt and remove the rocker cover(s).
29 Unbolt and remove the rocker shaft(s) (see
illustration).
30 Withdraw the pushrods and keep them in

their originally fitted sequence.
31 Disconnect the inlet manifold to timing

cover coolant hose from the manifold.
32 Unbolt and remove the inlet manifold
complete with fuel rail and injectors. Discard
the gasket.
33 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe(s) from
the manifold(s).
34 Disconnect the earth straps from the rear
of the left-hand cylinder head and release the
cable retaining clamp.

35 Unscrew and remove the spark plugs.
36 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts using the

reverse of the tightening sequence (see
illustration 38.5). Obtain new bolts for refitting.
Remove the cylinder head(s) and discard the
gasket(s).

Proceed as described in Part A, Section 16
of this Chapter but note that there are 24 bolts
retaining the sump, not 23.

The procedure is described for the engine in
the vehicle. With the engine removed, the
preliminary steps can be ignored.

2.8 litre engine

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the engine oil.
3 Drain the coolant and remove the radiator.

10 Timing cover and drive -

removal

9 Sump - removal

V6 engines 2C•9

2C

8.18b Disconnecting the idle speed control
valve wiring plug

8.19a Disconnecting the distributor wiring
plug

8.19b Disconnecting the fuel temperature
sensor wiring plug

8.22 Vacuum hose T-piece connector

8.20 Fuel rail vent (depressurising) valve
and cap

8.21 Fuel feed (A) and return (B) hoses

8.23 Rocker cover breather hose (arrowed) 8.29 Removing rocker shaft and pedestal

4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelts.
5 Remove the fan and viscous clutch if fitted).
6 Jam the crankshaft, either by engaging 5th

gear and applying the handbrake, or by
removing the starter motor and having an
assistant jam a screwdriver in the starter ring
gear teeth. Unbolt the crankshaft pulley. When
the pulley is secured to a vibration damper,
also remove the damper central bolt.
7 Remove the pulley or damper, using a puller
if necessary.
8 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the front
of the engine, including the water pump
bypass hose.
9 Disconnect the heater connecting pipe from
the timing cover and unbolt the two clips
which secure the pipe to the cover of the
cylinder block (see illustration).

10 If not already done, remove the starter motor.

11 Remove the sump.
12 Remove the nine securing bolts and

remove the timing cover complete with water
pump and thermostat.
13 Turn the crankshaft to bring the marks on
the timing gears into alignment as shown (see

illustration). Note that there are two marks on
the crankshaft gear - do not get them
confused.

14 Remove the bolt which secures the
camshaft gear. It should now be possible to
remove the camshaft gear by hand.
15 Draw off the crankshaft gear using a puller.
Recover the Woodruff keys if they are loose.
16 Clean the old gasket off the timing cover
and the cylinder block. Remove the oil seal
from the timing cover.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

17 Using the crankshaft damper centre bolt,
turn the engine until No 1 piston is at its firing
point (12° BTDC). This can be verified by
removing the distributor cap and checking that
the rotor arm is aligned with the No 1 HT lead
contact.

18 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
19 Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it

complete with air flow sensors and air hoses.
Remove the oil filler cap.
20 Drain the cooling system, disconnect the
radiator upper hose from the thermostat housing.
21 Disconnect the hose which runs between
the water pump and the expansion tank.
22 Remove the radiator upper shroud, then
the radiator (see illustrations).
23 Remove the fan from the water pump hub
noting that it has a left-hand thread.
24 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
timing cover/water pump hose stubs.
25 Remove the alternator and power steering
pump drivebelts (as applicable)
26 Unscrew the four bolts and remove the
crankshaft pulley.
27 Lock the crankshaft by jamming the starter
ring gear teeth, and unscrew the vibration
damper centre bolt. Withdraw the damper
from the front of the crankshaft. A puller will be
required for this, preferably one which has two
screws for the tapped holes provided (see

illustrations).
28 Using an engine support bar or hoist, take

the weight of the engine then unscrew the nuts

2C•10 V6 engines

10.9 Heater connecting pipe clip bolts
(arrowed)

10.27a Unscrewing the vibration damper
centre bolt

10.22b Removing radiator upper shroud 10.22c Manoeuvre the radiator out from
under the vehicle

10.27b Using a puller to withdraw the
vibration damper

10.28a Using an engine support bar to
support the engine

10.13 Camshaft and crankshaft gear marks
in alignment (engine inverted)

Disregard the other mark on the crankshaft gear

10.22a Radiator upper shroud plastic clip
and centre pin

from the top of the engine mounting brackets

(see illustrations).
29 Drain the engine oil, retaining it for further

use only if it is not contaminated or due for
renewal.
30 Unbolt the coolant distribution pipe bracket
from the timing cover (see illustration).
31 Disconnect the leads and remove the
starter motor.
32 Ensure that the front roadwheels and the
steering wheels are in the straight-ahead
position, then remove the pinch-bolt from the
steering shaft coupling and slide the coupling
down the shaft (see illustration).
33 Unscrew the sump retaining nuts and
bolts. The rear bolts can only be unscrewed
using a box spanner or thin-walled socket.
34 Release the brake hydraulic lines from
their support brackets by pulling out their
retaining clips.
35 Unscrew the two bolts from each of the
crossmember side brackets. Lower the
crossmember just enough to be able to
remove the sump. In practice, as the car is
standing on its roadwheels, the car body
should be raised by placing two axle stands
under the front jacking points (see

illustration).
36 Extract the nine bolts and remove the
timing cover complete with water pump (see
illustration). Removal of the radiator grille will

provide better access to the cover bolts.
37 Check that the crankshaft and camshaft
sprocket timing marks are aligned at the
nearest point to each other (see illustration).

If not, turn the crankshaft as necessary.
38 Unbolt and remove the timing chain
tensioner. Take care not to allow the spring­loaded tensioner plunger to eject (see

illustration).
39 Lock the camshaft sprocket by passing a

rod through one of the holes and unscrew the
sprocket retaining bolt (see illustration).
40 Remove the camshaft sprocket then
release the chain from the crankshaft sprocket
and remove the camshaft sprocket and chain
from the engine.
41 If required, the crankshaft sprocket, Woodruff
key and chain guide can now be also removed.
42 Clean away all old pieces of gasket from
the cylinder block and timing cover flanges.
43 Remove and discard the sump gasket.
The gasket rear tabs may break off, so pick

them out of the recesses in the rear main
bearing cap using a sharp, pointed knife.

Refer to Part A, Section 15 of this Chapter.

2.8 litre engine

1 Remove the sump.
2 Remove the two securing bolts and remove

the oil pump complete with pick-up and
strainer.

12 Oil pump - removal

11 Flywheel/driveplate and

adapter plate - removal

V6 engines 2C•11

2C

10.28b Engine mounting top nut 10.30 Coolant distribution pipe bracket 10.32 Steering shaft coupling pinch bolt

10.37 Timing sprocket alignment marks
(arrowed)

10.36 Removing a timing cover retaining
bolt

10.35 Unscrewing crossmember side
bracket mounting bolts

10.38 Timing chain tensioner assembly 10.39 Slackening camshaft sprocket
retaining bolt

3 Recover the oil pump driveshaft, noting

which way round it is fitted.
4 Recover the oil pump-to-block gasket.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

5 Remove the sump.
6 Unbolt the oil pump/inlet pipe assembly and

remove it then extract the driveshaft, which is
splined into the distributor shaft (see illustration).

1 Remove the cylinder heads,the sump and
the oil pump.
2 Check that the big-end bearing caps and
connecting rods have identification marks. This
is to ensure that the correct caps are fitted to the
correct connecting rods and at reassembly are
fitted in their correct cylinder bores. Note that
the pistons have an arrow (or notch) marked on
the crown to indicate the forward facing side.
3 Remove the big-end nuts and place to one
side in the order in which they are removed.
4 Pull off the big-end caps, taking care to
keep them in the right order and the correct
way round. Also ensure that the shell bearings
are kept with their respective connecting rods
unless they are being renewed.

5 To remove the shell bearings, press the
bearing on the side opposite the groove in
both the connecting rod and the cap, and the
bearing will slide out.
6 Withdraw the pistons and connecting rods
upwards out of the cylinder bores.

1 Remove the cylinder heads and pushrods.
2 Remove the tappets from their bores, using

a pencil magnet or by inserting a piece of bent
brass wire through the lubrication holes (see

illustration).
3 Remove the timing cover and the camshaft

gear.
4 Remove the two bolts which secure the
camshaft thrust plate. Withdraw the camshaft,
thrust plate and spacer ring.
5 The intermediate plate may now be
removed after removing the retaining bolts.
Note the oil seals on the timing cover locating
dowels, which must also be removed.

1 The engine must be removed from the
vehicle for this task.
2 Remove the flywheel/driveplate, timing
cover and crankshaft gear, and the pistons
and connecting rods, as described in the
preceding Sections. (If no work is to be done
on the pistons, they need not actually be
pushed out of their bores.)
3 Make sure that the main bearing caps carry
identification marks, then remove the bolts
and lift off the caps. Tap the caps with a soft­faced mallet if necessary to free them.

4 Note that the rear main bearing cap also
retains the crankshaft rear oil seal, and that the
shells for No 3 main bearing have thrust
flanges to control crankshaft endfloat.
5 Lift out the crankshaft. Do not drop it, it is
heavy.
6 Recover the upper half main bearing shells
from their seats in the crankcase, again
keeping them in order if they are to be re­used.
7 Remove the old oil seal from the rear of the
crankshaft.

Refer to Part A, Section 23 of this Chapter.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the crankshaft pulley (and damper,

when fitted).
3 Extract the old oil seal by levering it out with
a hooked tool.
4 Clean out the seal seat in the timing cover.
Lubricate the new seal and fit it, lips inwards. Seat
the seal with a piece of tube or a large socket. (If
available, Ford tool 21-063 and a non-damper
type pulley may be used to seat the seal.)
5 Lubricate the sealing surface of the pulley or
damper and refit it.
6 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure. Check the engine oil level
on completion.

Refer to Part A, Section 18 of this Chapter.

Refer to Part A, Section 25 of this Chapter.
New cylinder head bolts are not required if
they are of the hexagon head type. Torx type
bolts must be renewed. The two types of
cylinder head bolt must not be mixed on the
same engine.

1 Tap out the roll pin from one end of the
rocker shaft and remove the spring washer

(see illustration).
2 Slide the rocker arms, rocker supports and

springs off the rocker shaft. Keep them in the
correct order so that they can be reassembled
in the same position (see illustration).

20 Rocker shaft - dismantling,

examination and reassembly

19 Examination and renovation -

general information

18 Crankshaft rear oil seal -

renewal

17 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal

16 Engine mountings - renewal

15 Crankshaft and main

bearings - removal

14 Camshaft and intermediate

plate - removal

13 Pistons and connecting rods

- removal

2C•12 V6 engines

12.6 Removing the oil pump and driveshaft

20.1 Rocker shaft roll pin (arrowed)14.2 Using a piece of wire to remove the

tappets

If the big-end caps are
difficult to remove they can
be tapped lightly with a soft
faced hammer.

Keep the bearing shells with
their caps if they are to be re­used.

If a rocker support sticks it
can be removed by tapping it
with a soft-faced hammer.

3 Examine the rocker shaft and rocker arms for
wear. If the rocker arm surface that contacts the
valve stem is considerably worn, renew the
rocker arm. If it is worn slightly step-shaped it
may be cleaned up with a fine oil stone.
4 Oil the parts and reassemble them on their
shafts in the original order. With both rocker
shafts fitted the oil holes must face
downwards to the cylinder heads. This
position is indicated by a notch on one end
face of the rocker shaft (see illustration).

Inspect the tappets for scuffing, surface wear
or other damage. Renew them if necessary. It is
good practice to renew the tappets if a new
camshaft is being fitted.

Check the pushrods for bending by rolling
them on a flat surface. Straighten or renew as
necessary. Also check the pushrod ends for
wear or damage.

1 If there is excessive wear in the camshaft
bearings they will have to be renewed. As the
fitting of new bearings requires special tools
this should be left to your local Ford dealer.
2 The camshaft may show signs of wear on
the bearing journals or cam lobes. The main
decision to take is what degree of wear
necessitates renewing the camshaft, which is
expensive. Scoring or damage to the bearing
journals cannot be removed by regrinding;
renewal of the camshaft is the only solution.
3 The cam lobes may show signs of ridging or
pitting on the high points. If ridging is slight
then it may be possible to remove it with a fine
oil stone or emery cloth. The cam lobes,
however, are surface hardened and once the
hard skin is penetrated wear will be very rapid.
4 Excessive endfloat of the camshaft may be
remedied by fitting a thicker spacer and/or
thrust plate - see Specifications.
5 Excessive backlash in the camshaft drive
gears (timing gears), which will have been
noticed before dismantling by virtue of the
characteristic growling noise, can only be
remedied by renewing the gears.

1 Clean the dirt and oil off the cylinder heads.
Remove the carbon deposits from the
combustion chambers and valve heads with a
scraper or rotary wire brush.
2 Remove the valves by compressing the
valve springs with a suitable valve spring
compressor and lifting out the collets. Release
the valve spring compressor and remove the
valve spring retainer, spring and valve (see

illustrations). Note: When removing and
refitting the valve spring take care not to
damage the valve stem when pressing down
the valve spring retainer to remove or refit the
collets. If the stem gets damaged the sealing
will be ineffective and result in excessive oil
consumption and wear of the valve guides.

3 Remove the valve stem oil seals from the
valve guides and discard them.
4 With the valves removed clean out the
carbon from the ports.
5 Examine the heads of the valves and the
valve seats for pitting and burning. If the
pitting on valve and seat is slight it can be
removed by grinding the valves and seats
together with coarse, and then fine, valve
grinding paste.
6 Severe pitting or burning of the valves
probably means that they must be renewed.
Badly burnt valve seats can be recut, or
inserts can be fitted, by a Ford dealer or other
specialist.
7 Check the valve guides for wear by inserting
the valve into its guide until the valve stem is
flush with the end of the guide, then checking
the play at the valve head (see illustration).
Movement in excess of 0.6 mm (0.024 in)
means that the clearance between guide and
stem is excessive.
8 Valve guide wear is dealt with by reaming
the guides to a known oversize and fitting new
valves with oversize stems. Again, this is a
dealer or specialist task.

23 Cylinder heads - overhaul

22 Camshaft and bearings -

examination and renovation

21 Tappets and pushrods -

examination

V6 engines 2C•13

2C

20.2 Rocker shaft and associated
components

20.4 Notch (arrowed) shows position of oil
holes

23.2a Compressing a valve spring to
expose the collets

23.2b Removing the spring retainer and
spring

23.2c Removing an inlet valve 23.7 Checking valve guide wear using a
valve and a dial test indicator

Mark each valve so that they
can be fitted in the same
location.

9 Inspect the valve springs, if possible
comparing their free length with new springs.
Renew the springs anyway if they have been in
use for 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or more.
10 Use a straight-edge and feeler blades to
check that the cylinder head mating faces are
not distorted. If they are, have the heads
resurfaced by an engineering works.
11 Commence reassembly by oiling a valve
stem and inserting the valve into its guide.
Cover the collet grooves with adhesive tape
and press the new valve stem oil seal down
the stem, using a suitable tube to press the
seals home. Note that the inlet valve seals are
rubber and the exhaust seals nylon. On the 2.8
litre engine, oversize exhaust valve seals must
be used when valves with oversize stems are
fitted. Remove the adhesive tape.
12 Fit the valve spring and spring retainer.
Compress the spring and fit the collets, using
a dab of grease to hold them in position.
Carefully release the compressor.
13 Tap the valve stem smartly with a mallet to
seat the components.
14 Repeat the process on the remaining valves.

Refer to Part A, Section 28 of this Chapter.
The main bearing caps should be fitted, and
their bolts tightened to the specified torque,
when making bore measurements.

Refer to Part A, Section 29 of this Chapter.

1 Refer to Part A, Section 27 of this Chapter for
the examination procedure. Note that regrinding
of this crankshaft is not permitted, so if significant
journal wear is present, a new crankshaft (and
new bearing shells) must be fitted.
2 As with the SOHC engine, oversize main
bearing parent bores may be encountered.
These are marked with paint stripes on the
bearing caps, corresponding paint marks on
the bearing shells and identification codes on
the backs of the bearing shells.
3 On the 2.4 litre engine, separate
thrustwashers are used to control crankshaft
endfloat. On the 2.9 litre engine, No 3 main
bearing shells have integral thrust flanges.

2.8 litre engine

1 If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts and the cost
of a new pump. Examine the pump and then
decide whether renewal or repair is the best
course of action (see illustration).

2 Remove the pick-up pipe and strainer.
3 Note the position of the oil pump cover

relative to the body, then remove the bolts and
spring washers. Lift off the cover.
4 Mark the rotor faces so that they can be
refitted the same way round, then remove
them from the body.
5 Remove the pressure relief valve plug by
piercing it with a punch and levering it out.
Withdraw the spring and plunger.
6 Thoroughly clean all parts in petrol or paraffin
and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag. The
necessary clearances may now be checked
using a machined straight-edge (a good steel
rule) and a set of feeler blades. The critical
clearances are between the lobes of the centre
rotor and convex faces of the outer rotor;
between the rotor and pump body; and between
both rotors and the end cover plate (endfloat).
The clearances are given in the Specifications.
7 Endfloat may be measured by refitting the
rotors, placing the straight-edge across the
bottom of the pump and measuring the clearance
between the two rotors and the straight-edge.
8 New rotors are only available as a pair. If the
rotor-to-body clearance is excessive, a
complete new pump should be fitted.
9 Commence reassembly by lubricating the
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and spring.
10 Fit a new relief valve plug, flat side
outwards and seat it with a drift, until it is flush
with the pick-up pipe mating face.
11 Lubricate the rotors and fit them,
observing the marks made when dismantling if
applicable.
12 Fit the cover and secure it with the bolts
and spring washers. Tighten the bolts to the
specified torque.
13 Fit the pick-up pipe and strainer, using a
new gasket.
14 Temporarily insert the driveshaft into the
pump and make sure that the rotors turn freely.
15 A new or overhauled pump must be
primed before fitting.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

16 Oil pump overhaul is essentially as
described for the 2.8 litre engine, noting the
differences in design of the components (see

illustrations).

27 Oil pump - dismantling,

examination and reassembly

26 Crankshaft and bearings -

examination

25 Pistons and connecting rods

- examination and renovation

24 Cylinder bores - examination

and renovation

2C•14 V6 engines

27.16a Removing the pick-up from the oil
pump

27.1 Exploded view of the oil pump

1 Body
2 Bolt
3 Bolts
4 Lockwasher
5 Driveshaft
6 Toothed washer
7 Rotor set
8 Pressure relief valve plunger
9 Pressure relief valve spring
10 Pressure relief valve plug
11 Cover
12 Pick-up pipe and strainer

Refer to Part A, Section 33 of this Chapter.

The crankcase ventilation system is very
simple. One hose joins the rear air inlet
trunking to the oil filler cap, and another hose
joins the left-hand rocker cover to the plenum
chamber. Filtered (and metered) air passes
through the oil filler cap into the engine, and is
extracted, along with any other fumes, via the
second hose. Refer to Chapter 1 for
maintenance of the system.

Refer to Part A, Section 35 of this Chapter
but disregard the reference to new cylinder
head bolts when these are of the conventional
(hexagon-headed) type. Only Torx type bolts
need to be renewed.

1 Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase with a clean rag and fit the main

bearing upper half shells in position (see

illustration).
2 Clean the main bearing shell locations and

fit the half shells in the caps.

3 Fit the flanged shells to No 3 bearing.
4 Lubricate the shells and the main bearing

journals with engine oil.
5 Lubricate a new rear oil seal and fit it to the
end of the crankshaft, lips facing inwards.

6 Carefully place the crankshaft in position
(see illustration).
7 Make sure that the surfaces are clean, then

apply a film of sealant (Ford No A-70SX­19554-BA, or equivalent) to the mating faces
of the crankcase and the rear main bearing
cap.
8 Fit the bearing caps, with the arrows on the
caps pointing to the front of the engine (see

illustration).
9 Insert the main bearing cap bolts. The bolts

for bearing caps No 2 and 3 have rounded
heads, and are 14 mm (0.55 in) longer than
those for caps 1 and 4.
10 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts
progressively to the specified torque.
11 Make sure that the crankshaft is free to
rotate. Some stiffness is to be expected with

new components, but there should be no tight
spots or binding.
12 Press the crankshaft rear oil seal firmly
against the rear main bearing.
13 Check the crankshaft endfloat, levering
the crankshaft back and forth and inserting
feeler blades between the crankshaft and No 3
main bearing (see illustration). Excessive
endfloat can only be due to wear of the
crankshaft or bearing shell flanges.
14 Coat the rear main bearing cap sealing
wedges with sealant and press into position
with a blunt screwdriver (see illustration). The
rounded end of each wedge carries a red paint
mark, which must face the bearing cap.

1 Slide the spacer ring onto the camshaft,
chamfered side first. Refit the Woodruff key if
it was removed.
2 Lubricate the camshaft bearings, the
camshaft and thrust plate.
3 Carefully insert the camshaft from the front
and fit the thrust plate and self-locking
securing bolts. Tighten the bolts to the
specified torque (see illustrations).
4 Fit the timing cover dowels and O-ring seals
onto the crankcase. The chamfered end of the
dowels must face outwards towards the timing
cover (see illustration).
5 Ensure that the mating faces of the
crankcase and front intermediate plate are

32 Camshaft and intermediate

plate - refitting

31 Crankshaft and main

bearings - refitting

30 Engine reassembly - general

information

29 Crankcase ventilation system -

general information

28 Flywheel ring gear -

examination and renovation

V6 engines 2C•15

2C

31.1 Rear main bearing shell in the
crankcase

31.6 Placing the crankshaft in position

31.8 Main bearing cap markings - arrow
points to front of engine

31.13 Checking crankshaft endfloat 31.14 Fitting the rear main bearing cap
sealing wedges

27.16b Removing the oil pump cover

If the old bearings are being
refitted (although this is false
economy unless they are
practically new) make sure

they are fitted in their original positions.

clean and then apply sealing compound to
both faces. Position the gasket on the
crankcase and then fit the intermediate plate

(see illustration).
6 Fit the two centre bolts finger-tight, then fit

another two bolts temporarily for locating
purposes. Tighten the centre securing bolts,
then remove the temporarily fitted locating
bolts.
7 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
steps taken to gain access to the camshaft.

1 Wipe clean the bearing seats in the
connecting rod and cap, and clean the backs
of the bearing shells. Fit the shells to each rod

and cap with the locating torques engaged in
the corresponding cut-outs (see illustration).
2 If the old bearings are nearly new and are
being refitted, then ensure that they are
refitted in their correct locations on the correct
rods.
3 The pistons, complete with connecting
rods, are fitted to their bores from the top of
the block.
4 Locate the piston ring gaps in the following
manner:

Top: 150° from one side of the oil control ring

helical expander gap

Centre: 150° from the opposite side of the oil

control ring helical expander gap

Bottom: oil control ring helical expander.

opposite the marked piston front side

Oil control ring, intermediate rings, 25 mm (1 in)

each side of the helical expander gap

5 Lubricate the piston and rings well with
engine oil.
6 Fit a universal ring compressor and prepare
to insert the first piston into the bore. Make
sure it is the correct piston-connecting rod
assembly for that particular bore, that the
connecting rod is the correct way round and
that the front of the piston (marked with an
arrow or a notch) is to the front of the engine

(see illustrations).
7 Again lubricate the piston and the piston

skirt, and insert the connecting rod and piston
assembly into the cylinder bore up to the
bottom of the piston ring compressor.
8 Gently but firmly tap the piston through the
piston ring compressor and into the cylinder

bore, using the shaft of a hammer (see

illustration).
9 Generously lubricate the crankpin journals

with engine oil and turn the crankshaft so that
the crankpin is in the most advantageous
position for the connecting rods to be drawn
onto it.
10 Lubricate the bearing shell in the
connecting rod cap. Fit the cap to the rod.
11 Lubricate the threads and contact faces of
the big-end cap nuts. Fit the nuts and tighten
them to the specified torque.
12 Check the crankshaft for freedom of
rotation.
13 Repeat the operations for the other five
pistons.
14 Refit the oil pump, the sump and the
cylinder heads.

33 Pistons and connecting rods

- refitting

2C•16 V6 engines

32.3a Fitting the camshaft into the cylinder
block

33.6a Piston with ring compressor fitted

32.5 Intermediate plate in position

33.6b Connecting rod and cap carry
cylinder numbers

33.8 Tapping a piston into the bore

33.1 Piston, connecting rod and shells
ready for assembly

32.3b Fitting the camshaft thrust plate 32.4 Timing cover dowel and seal

1 Make sure that the oil pump and crankcase

mating faces are clean.
2 Check that the washer on the oil pump
driveshaft is located correctly (see illustration).
3 If a new or overhauled pump is being fitted,
prime it by injecting oil into it and turning it by
hand.
4 Insert the oil pump driveshaft into the block
with the pointed end towards the distributor

(see illustration).
5 Fit the assembled oil pump, using a new

gasket. Insert the pump-to-block bolts and
tighten them to the specified torque (see

illustration).
6 Refit the sump.

Refer to Part A, Section 40 of this Chapter.

2.8 litre engines

1 Lubricate a new oil seal and fit it to the
timing cover (see illustration).
2 If the Woodruff keys were removed from the
camshaft and crankshaft, refit them.
3 Refit the crankshaft gear, if removed, using
a length of tube to drive it home.
4 Position the camshaft and crankshaft so
that their keyways are facing each other (see

illustration). Slide the camshaft gear onto the
camshaft, rotating the shafts slightly if
necessary so that the marks on the two gears
are aligned. Remember that there are two
marks on the crankshaft gear.
5 Fit the camshaft gear retaining bolt and
washer (see illustration). Tighten the bolt to
the specified torque.
6 Apply sealant to the mating faces of the
timing cover and the intermediate plate.
7 Position a new gasket on the intermediate
plate and fit the timing cover to the cylinder
block (see illustrations).
8 Fit the timing cover bolts, but do not tighten
them yet.
9 Oil the sealing face of the crankshaft pulley
or damper. Fit the pulley/damper and the
central bolt and washer, applying sealant to
the inboard face of the washer (see

illustration). Draw the pulley/damper into

36 Timing cover and drive -

refitting

35 Flywheel/driveplate and

adapter plate - refitting

34 Oil pump - refitting

V6 engines 2C•17

2C

34.2 Oil pump driveshaft washer location 34.4 Fitting the oil pump driveshaft 34.5 Oil pump in position

36.7a Timing cover gasket in position

36.1 Timing cover oil seal 36.5 Camshaft gear washer and bolt36.4 Crankshaft and camshaft gears
correctly aligned

36.7b Fitting the timing cover 36.9 Fitting the crankshaft pulley

place by tightening the bolt; this will centralise
the timing cover.
10 Tighten the timing cover bolts evenly to
the specified torque.
11 Jam the crankshaft and tighten the pulley/
damper central bolt to the specified torque.

12 Refit the sump.
13 If the water pump was removed from the

timing cover, refit it using a new gasket.
14 If the engine is still in the vehicle, reverse
the steps taken to gain access.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

15 If the crankshaft sprocket was removed,
check that the key slots in the end of the
crankshaft and camshaft are in alignment at
the closest point to each other (see

illustration).

16 Fit the crankshaft sprocket and chain

guide.
17 Engage the chain around the teeth of the
crankshaft sprocket.
18 Engage the camshaft sprocket in the
upper loop of the chain in such a way so that
the camshaft sprocket will slip onto the key
slot when the timing mark is aligned with that
on the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration).
Some trial and error may be involved in
achieving this.
19 Lock the camshaft sprocket and tighten
the retaining bolt to the specified torque.
20 Retract the chain tensioner. To do this,
insert the plunger (bevelled side entering), then
release the pawl with a small screwdriver
pushed into the hole in the tensioner body

(see illustration).

21 Compress the plunger/slipper and retain it

in the retracted position using a cable-tie or
similar. New chain tensioners are supplied
complete with a retainer (see illustration).
22 Bolt the tensioner in position, at the same
time removing the plunger retainer. Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque.
23 Locate a new gasket on the front face of
the engine.
24 Renew the timing cover oil seal and apply
grease to the lips.
25 Fit the timing cover, centre it and align it
with the sump mounting flange.
26 Although a special tool (21-137) is
available for centring the cover, a piece of
plastic pipe, or a socket of suitable thickness,
will serve as an adequate substitute.
Alternatively measure the space between the
crankshaft nose and the timing cover damper
recess at several different points and adjust
the position of the cover until all the
measurements are equal. A strip of metal 14.0
mm wide will serve as a gauge if calipers are
not available (see illustrations).

27 Tighten the timing cover bolts (see
illustration) and fit the Woodruff key (where

removed) for the vibration damper.
28 Apply jointing compound to the front and
rear sump flange areas on the timing
cover/cylinder block and rear main bearing
cap. Make sure that the bearing surfaces are
perfectly clean. Checking that the rear tabs of
the gasket enter the recesses in the main
bearing cap, locate a new sump gasket on the
crankcase (see illustration).

2C•18 V6 engines

36.15 Crankshaft and camshaft key and
slot alignment

36.26b Using a socket to check the
crankshaft to timing cover gap

36.21 Timing chain tensioner retracted
using a cable-tie

36.26a Measuring the crankshaft to timing
cover gap

36.27 Timing cover retaining bolts
(arrowed)

36.28 Sump gasket at rear main bearing
cap

36.18 Fitting timing chain and sprockets 36.20 Releasing timing chain tensioner
pawl

29 Fit the sump and the retaining nuts and

bolts. Tighten them progressively in two stages.
30 Oil the lip of the timing cover oil seal and
the contact surface of the crankshaft damper.
31 Fit the damper to the crankshaft, being
careful not to dislodge the Woodruff key. Draw
the damper into position using the retaining
bolt and washer.
32 Remove the bolt and apply sealant to the
faces of the washer. Refit the bolt and washer
then jam the starter gear ring teeth and tighten
the bolt to the specified torque.
33 Refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
34 Refit the crossmember side brackets and
brake pipes.
35 Reconnect the engine mountings and
remove the engine hoist or axle stands (see
“Jacking”).

36 Connect the steering shaft coupling with
the steering wheel and front roadwheels in the
straight-ahead position. Fit the pinch-bolt and
tighten it to the specified torque.

37 Fit the starter motor and connect the leads.
38 Bolt the coolant distributor pipe to the

timing cover.
39 Refit the alternator and power steering
pump drivebelts and tension them (see

illustrations).
40 Fit the fan and radiator, connect all coolant

hoses, and fit the radiator upper shroud.

41 Fit the air cleaner cover with attachments.
42 Fill the engine with oil and coolant and

connect the battery.

2.8 litre engine

1 Clean the mating faces of the crankcase
and sump. Ensure that the grooves in the seal
carriers are clean.

2 Fit the rubber seals in the grooves.
3 Apply sealing compound on the crankcase

and slide the tabs of the gasket under the cut­outs in the rubber seals (see illustration).
4 Ensure that the gasket hole lines up with the
holes in the gasket crankcase and fit the
sump. Take care not to dislodge the gasket.
5 Fit the 24 securing bolts. Tighten them in
the sequence shown to the Stage 1 specified
torque starting at point A (see illustration),

then to the Stage 2 torque starting at point B.
6 Fit the sump drain plug, using a new
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque.
7 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
steps taken to gain access.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

8 Refer to paragraphs 28 to 29, Section 36.

2.8 litre engine

1 Lubricate the valve tappets with clean
engine oil and insert them in the cylinder
block. Ensure that they are fitted in their
original locations (see illustration).
2 Ensure that the mating faces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder heads are clean.
3 Position the new cylinder head gaskets over
the guide bushes on the cylinder block. Check
that they are correctly located. The right and
left-hand gaskets are different. The gaskets
are marked FRONT TOP (see illustration).
4 Carefully lower the cylinder heads onto the
cylinder block. Oil the threads and contact
faces of the cylinder head bolts and insert
them into their holes.
5 Tighten the cylinder head bolts, in the
correct order (see illustration), to the Stage 1
specified torque. Repeat in the same order for
Stages 2 and 3. Final tightening, when
required, is done after warm-up.

38 Cylinder heads - refitting

37 Sump - refitting

V6 engines 2C•19

2C

36.39a Alternator drivebelt tensioner strap
bolt

36.39b Power steering pump drivebelt
tensioner bolt

37.3 Slide the sump gasket tab into the seal
cut-out

38.1 Fitting a tappet in the block

37.5 Sump bolt tightening sequence

For A and B see text

38.3 Cylinder head gasket markings 38.5 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence

6 Lubricate the pushrods with engine oil and

insert them in the cylinder block.
7 Place the oil splash shields in position on
the cylinder heads and fit the rocker shaft
assemblies. Guide the rocker arm adjusting
screws into the pushrod sockets (see

illustrations).
8 Tighten the rocker shaft securing bolts

progressively to the specified torque.
9 Refit the inlet manifold, using a new gasket.
Do not refit the rocker covers yet.

10 Adjust the valve clearances (Section 39).
11 Refit the spark plugs.
12 Refit the rocker covers, using new

gaskets. The adhesive side of the gaskets
should face the rocker cover.
13 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
preliminary steps.

2.4 & 2.9 litre engines

14 Refitting the cylinder heads to these
engines is essentially a reversal of the removal
procedure but also refer to information given
for the 2.8 litre engine whilst noting the
following points.
15 Always use new Torx type cylinder head
bolts. Oil them and allow them to drain. When
fitted the word OBEN should be visible on the
new gaskets.
16 Tighten the bolts in the specified
sequence (as for the 2.8 litre engine) to the
correct torque. The final stage in the tightening
procedure is by the angular method. Use a
disc similar to the one shown or make a paint
mark at the same point on each bolt head to
ensure that each bolt is turned through exactly
the same number of degrees (see

illustration).

17 As a result of the bolt tightening torque

used and the elasticity of the bolts, no further
tightening is required after the initial running-in
period.
18 Apply jointing compound to the areas
where the inlet manifold and cylinder heads
meet and locate a new gasket in position.
Make sure that it is the correct way around.
Tighten the inlet manifold bolts to the specified
torque and in the sequence shown (see

illustrations).
19 Check that No 1 piston is still at the firing

point (12° BTDC) and fit the distributor.

20 Adjust the valve clearances.
21 Fit new rocker cover gaskets, peeling off

the self-adhesive shield before sticking the
gaskets to the covers. Note the aluminium
spacers in the gaskets to prevent
overtightening (see illustration).
22 Use a new gasket at the plenum chamber
and tighten the fixing bolts to the specified
torque (see illustration).
23 Refit the alternator and power steering
pump (where removed) and tension the
drivebelts.
24 Reconnect the fuel lines and secure them
in position with new clips. Reconnect all
coolant and vacuum hoses and electrical
connectors. Refill the engine with coolant and
reconnect the battery.
25 Switch on the ignition and bleed the fuel
system by operating the vent valve on the fuel rail.
26 Run the engine up to normal operating
temperature and then check the ignition
timing.

2C•20 V6 engines

38.7a Fitting the pushrods and oil splash
shields

38.18a Inlet manifold gasket correctly
located

38.18b Fitting inlet manifold complete with
fuel rail and injectors

38.22 Lowering the plenum chamber into
position

38.18c Inlet manifold tightening sequence

Arrow indicates the front of the engine

38.21 Peeling off rocker cover gasket
protective shield

38.7b Fitting an assembled rocker shaft 38.16 Tightening a cylinder head bolt using
an angular tightening disc

27 The inlet manifold bolts should be

retightened to the specified torque in the correct
sequence. This will mean disconnecting the air
hoses from the throttle valve housing, the
vacuum hose from the left-hand rocker cover,
and the wiring connector from the idle speed
control valve and throttle valve potentiometer.
Remove the plenum chamber, place it to one
side, then release the fuel rail bolts but do not
disconnect the fuel pipes. It may also be
necessary to remove the distributor again to
gain access to one of the bolts.

See Chapter 1, Section 23.

1 Refer to Section 7 and refit the items listed.
2 If the oil cooler and its threaded bush were
removed, refit them as follows (see
illustration).
3 Screw the new bush into the cylinder block.

Apply Omnifit Activator “Rapid” (to Ford
specification SSM-99B-9000-AA) to the
exposed threads of the bush and to the inside
of the threaded sleeve.
4 Apply one drop of Omnifit Sealant “300
Rapid” (to Ford specification SSM-4G-9003­AA) to the leading threads of the bush. Do not
use more than one drop, otherwise sealant
may get into the lubrication circuit.
5 Fit the cooler, using a new gasket, and
secure with the threaded bush. Make sure that
the coolant pipes are positioned at the correct
angle (see illustration), then tighten the
threaded sleeve to the specified torque.
6 Fit a new oil filter element, oiling its sealing
ring prior to installation. Tighten the filter
approximately three-quarters of a turn beyond
the point where the seal contacts the cooler
face. Do not use any tool to tighten the filter.

Refer to Part A, Section 49, paragraphs 1 to
9 of this Chapter. Before starting the engine,
refer to the following Section.

1 Refer to Part A, Section 51 of this Chapter.
2 When conventional (hexagon-headed)

cylinder head bolts are fitted, they must be re­tightened after the engine has warmed up.
Proceed as follows.

3 Stop the engine and remove the rocker covers.
4 Working in the sequence used for

tightening, slacken one cylinder head bolt a
quarter turn, then re-tighten it to the Stage 4
specified torque. Repeat in sequence for all
the cylinder head bolts.

5 Tighten the inlet manifold bolts.
6 Check the valve clearances.
7 Refit the rocker covers and other disturbed

components.

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2 The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.

3 Disable the ignition system by dismantling
the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6 Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9 On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.

43 Compression test -

description and interpretation

42 Initial start-up after overhaul

or major repair

41 Engine - refitting

40 Ancillary components - refitting

39 Valve clearances - checking

and adjustment

V6 engines 2C•21

2C

40.2 Oil cooler components

A Threaded bush
B Seal
C Cooler

D Sleeve
E Oil filter

40.5 Oil cooler installation angle

A Rear face of cylinder block

2C•22

Notes

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Air conditioning system - component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Cooling fan switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Electric cooling fan(s) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Expansion tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Heater assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Heater control cables - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Heater controls - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Heater coolant valve - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Heater matrix - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Radiator - inspection and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Radiator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Temperature gauge sender - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Thermostat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Thermostat - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Viscous-coupled fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Water pump/alternator drivebelt(s) - inspection, renewal and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Water pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner - removal and refitting .13

Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

General

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sealed, pressurised, thermostatically controlled

Fan type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical temperature-sensitive viscous clutch, or electric

(DOHC)

Coolant

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants and fluids”

Capacity:

SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres (14.1 pints) approx

DOHC:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.9 litres (13.9 pints) approx

Fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.3 litres (12.8 pints) approx

V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 litres (15.0 pints) approx

Specific gravity at 45 to 50% antifreeze concentration . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.069 to 1.077

Expansion tank cap

Opening pressure:

SOHC and V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.85 to 1.10 bar

DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 bar

Thermostat

Nominal rating:.

SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88°C (190°F)

DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102°C (216°F)

V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82°C (180°F)

Actual opening temperature:

SOHC and DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85° to 89°C (185° to 192°F)

V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79° to 83°C (174° to 181°F)

Water pump drivebelt

Deflection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 mm (0.4 in) approx under normal fingertip pressure at mid-

point of longest run

3•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

3

Cooling system

The cooling system is of pressurised type
and includes a front mounted crossflow
radiator, belt-driven water pump, temperature­sensitive thermo-viscous fan (on DOHC
models, an electrically-operated cooling fan is
fitted, operated by a switch in the thermostat
housing), wax type thermostat, and an
expansion and degas tank.

The radiator matrix is of copper and brass
construction and the end tanks are of plastic.
On automatic transmission models the right­hand side end tank incorporates the
transmission oil cooler.

The thermostat is located behind the water
outlet elbow at the front of the cylinder head
on OHC models, and on the front of the water
pump on V6 models. Its purpose is to ensure
rapid engine warm-up by restricting the flow of
coolant in the engine when cold, and also to
assist in regulating the normal operating
temperature of the engine.

The expansion tank incorporates a pressure
cap which effectively pressurises the cooling
system as the coolant temperature rises,
thereby increasing the boiling point of the
coolant. The tank also has a further degas
function. Any accumulation of air bubbles in
the coolant, in particular in the thermostat
housing and the radiator, is returned to the
tank and released in the air space thus
maintaining the efficiency of the coolant.

On models fitted with the auxiliary warning
system, the expansion tank contains a level
sensor which operates a warning light if the
coolant level falls significantly.

When the engine is started from cold, the
water pump circulates coolant around the
cylinder block, cylinder head(s) and inlet
manifold. The warm coolant passes through
the automatic choke housing (when
applicable) and through the heater matrix
before returning to the engine. As the coolant
expands, the level in the expansion tank rises.

Circulation of coolant through the radiator is
prevented while the thermostat is shut. When
the coolant reaches the predetermined

temperature the thermostat opens and hot
water passes through the top hose to the top
of the radiator. As the water circulates down
through the radiator, it is cooled by the
passage of air past the radiator when the car is
in forward motion, supplemented by the action
of the thermo-viscous fan when necessary.
Having reached the bottom of the radiator, the
water is now cool and the cycle is repeated.
Circulation of water continues through the
expansion tank, inlet manifold and heater at all
times; the heater temperature control being by
an air flap.

The thermo-viscous fan is controlled by the
temperature of air behind the radiator. When
the air temperature reaches a predetermined
level, a bi-metallic coil commences to open a
valve within the unit and silicon fluid is fed
through a system of vanes. Half of the vanes
are driven directly by the water pump and the
remaining half are connected to the fan blades.
The vanes are arranged so that drive is
transmitted to the fan blades in relation to the
drag or viscosity of the fluid, and this in turn
depends on ambient temperature and engine
speed. The fan is therefore only operated when
required, and compared with direct drive type
fan represents a considerable improvement in
fuel economy, drivebelt wear and fan noise.

Air conditioning

Air conditioning is fitted as standard on
Scorpio models and is optionally available on
some other models. In conjunction with the
heater, the system enables any reasonable air
temperature to be achieved inside the car, it
also reduces the humidity of the incoming air,
aiding demisting even when cooling is not
required.

The refrigeration side of the air conditioning
system functions in a similar way to a
domestic refrigerator. A compressor, belt­driven from the crankshaft pulley, draws
refrigerant in its gaseous phase from an
evaporator. The compressed refrigerant
passes through a condenser where it loses
heat and enters its liquid phase. After
dehydration the refrigerant returns to the
evaporator where it absorbs heat from air
passing over the evaporator fins. The
refrigerant becomes a gas again and the cycle
is repeated.

Various subsidiary controls and sensors
protect the system against excessive
temperature and pressures. Additionally,
engine idle speed is increased when the
system is in use to compensate for the
additional load imposed by the compressor.

Precautions

Antifreeze mixture

Antifreeze mixture is poisonous. Keep it out
of reach of children and pets. Wash splashes
off skin and clothing with plenty of water.
Wash splashes off vehicle paintwork to avoid
discolouration.

Antifreeze/water mixture must be renewed
every two years to preserve its anti-corrosive
properties. In climates where antifreeze
protection is unnecessary, a corrosion
inhibitor may be used instead - consult a Ford
dealer. Never run the engine for long periods
with plain water as coolant. Only use the
specified antifreeze, as inferior brands may not
contain the necessary corrosion inhibitors, or
may break down at high temperatures.
Antifreeze containing methanol is particularly
to be avoided, as the methanol evaporates.

The specified mixture is 45 to 50%
antifreeze and 50 to 55% clean soft water (by
volume). Mix the required quantity in a clean
container.

Air conditioning refrigerant

Although the refrigerant is not itself toxic, in
the presence of a naked flame (or a lighted
cigarette) it forms a highly toxic gas. Liquid
refrigerant spilled on the skin will cause
frostbite. If refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse
them with a dilute solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.

In view of the above points, and of the need
for specialised equipment for evacuating and
recharging the system, any work which
requires the disconnection of a refrigerant line
must be left to a specialist.

Do not allow refrigerant lines to be exposed
to temperatures above 110°C (230°F) - eg
during welding or paint drying operations and
do not operate the air conditioning system if it
is known to be short of refrigerant, or further
damage may result.

1 General information and

precautions

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Radiator lower mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9

Thermostat housing bolts:

SOHC, DOHC and 2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 20 13 to 15

2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 10 5 to 7

Water pump bolts:

SOHC, M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

SOHC, M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 42 26 to 31

DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 16 to 21

2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 10 5 to 7

Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 26 16 to 19

Water pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner bolt (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 52 to 72

Fan-to-viscous clutch bolts:

SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7

V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 23 13 to 17

Fan shroud bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Cylinder block drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18

See Chapter 1, Section 46.

See Chapter 1, Section 46.

See Chapter 1, Section 46.

1 Drain the radiator. There is no need to drain
the cylinder block. On DOHC engines the
electric cooling fan assembly must be removed
to gain the clearance to remove the radiator.
2 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses from
the radiator by slackening the hose clips and
pulling off the hoses with a twisting motion
(see illustrations). Do not use excessive force

- the radiator side tanks are made of plastic.
3 On OHC models, disconnect the small hose
running from the expansion tank to the radiator.
4 On automatic transmission models, clean
around the transmission fluid cooler unions on
the radiator and disconnect them (see

illustration). Be prepared for fluid spillage;
plug or cap the cooler lines to keep dirt out.
5 On models with air conditioning, disconnect
the auxiliary fan thermo-switch. If the thermo­switch is mounted in the radiator, remove It.
6 Remove the upper half of the fan shroud by
removing the two bolts and two clips (see
illustration), and the lower half which is
secured by two bolts.
7 Release the two radiator top mounting clips
by pulling out the plastic plugs (see illustration).
8 Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
Support the radiator and remove the two
bottom mounting bolts (see illustration).
9 Carefully lower the radiator slightly to free
the top mountings, then remove it from under
the vehicle.
10 If a new radiator is being fitted, transfer the
fan shrouds and mountings from the old one.
11 Refit by reversing the removal operations,
then refill the cooling system.
12 On automatic transmission models, check
the transmission fluid level.

1 If the radiator has been removed because of
suspected blockage, reverse-flush it.
2 Clean dirt and debris from the radiator fins,
using an air jet, or water and a soft brush. Be
careful not to damage the fins, or cut your
fingers.

3 A radiator specialist can perform a “flow
test” on the radiator to establish whether an
internal blockage exists.
4 A leaking radiator must be referred to a
specialist for permanent repair. Do not attempt
to weld or solder a leaking radiator, as
damage to the plastic parts may result.
5 In an emergency, minor leaks from the
radiator can be cured by using a radiator
sealant while the radiator is in situ.

SOHC engines

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the cooling system. As it is not

necessary to completely drain the radiator, the
bottom hose can be disconnected from the
water pump.
3 Disconnect the top hose from the
thermostat housing at the front of the cylinder
head (see illustration).
4 Unscrew the bolts and remove the housing
and gasket (see illustration).
5 Using a screwdriver, prise the retaining clip
from the housing, and extract the thermostat
and sealing ring (see illustrations).
6 Clean the thermostat housing and cylinder
head mating surfaces. Obtain a new gasket for
reassembly, and if necessary a new sealing
ring too.

7 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

7 Thermostat - removal and

refitting

6 Radiator - inspection and repair

5 Radiator - removal and refitting

4 Cooling system - filling

3 Cooling system - flushing

2 Cooling system - draining

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3

3

5.2a Radiator top hose 5.2b Radiator bottom hose (A)

Also shown are automatic transmission fluid
cooler lower union (B) and hose to expansion
tank (C)

5.4 Transmission fluid cooler upper union

5.6 Fan shroud clip 5.7 Pull out the plug to release the radiator
top mounting

5.8 One of the radiator bottom mounting
bolts (arrowed)

Make sure that the thermostat is the right way
round - the wax capsule fits into the cylinder
head, with the direction of flow arrow facing
forwards (see illustration).
8 Refill the cooling system.

DOHC engines

9 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10 Drain the cooling system.
11 On fuel-injection models, for access to the

thermostat housing, loosen the clips and
remove the air inlet tube which connects the
plenum chamber to the inlet manifold.
12 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustrations).
13 Disconnect the wiring plug from the
cooling fan switch mounted in the thermostat
housing (see illustration).
14 Unscrew the three securing bolts, and

withdraw the thermostat housing (see

illustration).
15 Manoeuvre the thermostat away from the

inlet manifold and recover the O-ring. If it is
necessary to prise the thermostat out, take
care not to damage the surface of the housing
in the inlet manifold.
16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:

a) Ensure that the O-ring seal is correctly

fitted around the edge of the thermostat.

b) When fitting the thermostat to the inlet

manifold ensure that the relief valve is
located in the 12 o’clock position (see

illustration).

c) Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to

the specified torque.

d) Refill the cooling system.

3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

7.3 Top hose attachment to the thermostat
housing

7.12b . . . from the thermostat housing

7.5b . . . extract the thermostat . . . 7.5c . . . and the sealing ring 7.7 Thermostat direction of flow arrow

7.12a Disconnecting the coolant hoses . . .

7.13 Disconnect the cooling fan switch
wiring plug . . .

7.14 . . . and remove the thermostat
housing

7.4 Removing the thermostat housing 7.5a Remove the retaining clip . . .

V6 engines

17 The thermostat is removed in the course
of water pump removal.

1 A rough test of the thermostat may be made
by suspending it with a piece of string in a
saucepan full of water (see illustration). Bring
the water to the boil. The thermostat most
open by the time the water boils. If not, renew
it.
2 If a thermometer is available, the precise
opening temperature of the thermostat may be
determined and compared with that given in
the Specifications.
3 A thermostat which fails to close as the
water cools must also be renewed.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the upper half of the fan shroud

(two bolts, four clips).
3 Undo the nut which secures the fan clutch
to the water pump. This nut has a left-hand
thread, ie it is undone in a clockwise direction.
A thin cranked spanner, 32 mm (OHC) or 36
mm (V6) AF is needed (see illustration);
alternatively, if two of the pulley bolts are
removed, a normal thickness or even an

adjustable spanner can be used (see
illustrations). Tap the spanner with a mallet if
need be to release the nut.

4 The fan can now be unbolted from the
viscous clutch if required. Do not overtighten
the bolts when refitting.

5 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 To provide additional clearance when

removing the cooling fan shroud assembly
(which is removed from below the vehicle),
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
3 Disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the
motor(s), and where applicable, unclip the
wiring from the fan shroud.
4 Unclip the expansion tank hose from the fan
shroud.
5 Unscrew the two nuts securing the fan shroud
to the top of the radiator, then tilt the top of the

shroud away from the radiator, and lift the
shroud to release the lower securing clips.
Withdraw the assembly from below the vehicle.
6 To remove the fan blades, prise the
securing clip from the end of the motor shaft.
7 The motor can be separated from the fan
shroud by unscrewing the three securing nuts
and bolts.
8 Note that two cooling fans may be fitted,
depending on model. Both fans are secured to
the shroud in the same manner.
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but when
fitting the fan blades, ensure that the drive dog
on the motor shaft engages with the slot in the
rear of the fan blades.

SOHC engines

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the cooling system.
3 Remove the fan and viscous coupling.
4 If not already done, remove the pump

drivebelt(s), then unbolt and remove the water
pump pulley (see illustration).
5 Disconnect the radiator bottom hose and
the heater return hose from the pump.
6 Remove the timing belt cover, which is
secured by three bolts.

11 Water pump - removal and

refitting

10 Electric cooling fan(s) -

removal and refitting

9 Viscous-coupled fan - removal

and refitting

8 Thermostat - testing

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5

3

7.16 Thermostat relief valve (arrowed)
positioned in the 12 o’clock position

8.1 Checking the thermostat opening
temperature

9.3a Dimensions of spanner for undoing

fan clutch nut. Spanner thickness must not

exceed 5 mm (0.2 in)

9.3b Undoing the viscous fan clutch nut 9.3c Removing the fan and clutch 11.4 Undoing a water pump pulley bolt

X = 10 mm (0.4 in)
Y = 10 mm (0.4 in)

Z = 50 mm (2.0 in)

If problems are experienced
with the pulley turning as the
nut is undone, remove the

drivebelt and clamp an old
drivebelt round the pulley to restrain it,
using self-locking pliers.

7 Remove the three securing bolts and
withdraw the water pump (see illustrations).
8 A leaking, noisy or otherwise defective
pump must be renewed.
9 Clean the mating faces and obtain a new
gasket for reassembly (see illustration).
10 Refit by reversing the removal operation,
tightening all fastenings to the correct torque
(where specified).
11 Refill the cooling system.

DOHC engines

12 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
13 On fuel-injection models, for access to the

water pump, remove the air inlet hose, plenum
chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly.

14 Drain the cooling system.
15 Remove the water pump/alternator

drivebelt.

16 If the pump pulley is to be removed, it is
easiest to do this with the pump in position as
follows. Prevent the pulley from rotating using
a strap wrench (which can be improvised
using an old drivebelt and a large socket and
wrench), and unscrew the four pulley securing
bolts. Withdraw the pulley.
17 Position a suitable container beneath the
water pump to catch the coolant which will be
released as the pump is removed, then
unscrew the five securing bolts and withdraw
the pump from the housing in the cylinder
block (see illustration). Recover the O-ring
seal and discard it; a new one must be used
on refitting.
18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:

a) Ensure that the mating faces of the water

pump and cylinder block are clean and fit
a new O-ring to the pump (see

illustration).

b) Tighten the water pump bolts and where

applicable the pump pulley bolts to the
specified torque.

c) On completion refill the cooling system.

19 Note that on models up to May 1990, the
coolant hoses were connected to the water
pump housing as shown (see illustration).
20 On models from May 1990, the heater
hose (A) and the expansion tank hose (B)
connections were swapped over.

21 If the hoses are disconnected on earlier
models, such as during engine removal, they
should be reconnected as on later models, ie
connect the heater hose to connection B and
connect the expansion tank hose to connection
A. This will reduce the possibility of noises from
the heater matrix due to air in the system.

V6 engines

22 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
23 Drain the cooling system.
24 Remove the fan and viscous coupling.
25 If not already done, remove the pump

drivebelt(s), then unbolt and remove the water
pump pulley.
26 Disconnect the radiator bottom hose and the
heater return hose from the thermostat housing.
27 Remove the three bolts which secure the
thermostat housing to the water pump.
Remove the housing and the thermostat.
28 Remove the twelve securing bolts and
withdraw the water pump. Note that on some
models it will be necessary to remove the
crankshaft pulley and damper to gain access
to the lower water pump bolts (see

illustration).
29 A leaking, noisy or otherwise defective

pump must be renewed.
30 Clean the mating faces and obtain a new
gasket for reassembly. Use a new thermostat
housing gasket also.
31 Refit by reversing the removal operation,
tightening all fastenings to the correct torque
(where specified).
32 Refill the cooling system.

3•6 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

11.7a This water pump bolt also secures
the alternator strap

11.18 On refitting, renew the water pump
O-ring (arrowed)

11.17 Withdrawing the water pump from
the cylinder block (engine removed)

11.19 Water pump housing hose
connections

A Heater hose connection - up to May 1990
B Expansion tank hose connection - up to

May 1990

C Bottom radiator hose

11.28 Removing the water pump

11.7b Water pump removed 11.9 Fitting a new gasket to the water
pump

See Chapter 1, Section 21.

1 On 2.0 litre DOHC engines only, remove the
water pump/alternator drivebelt as described
in the previous Section.
2 Loosen the alternator lower mounting
through-bolt, then remove the alternator upper
mounting bolt, and swing the alternator away
from the engine.
3 Unscrew the central securing bolt, and
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly.
4 Commence refitting by positioning the
tensioner on the cylinder block, ensuring that
the lug on the rear of the tensioner bracket
engages with the corresponding hole in the
cylinder block (see illustration). Tighten the
securing bolt.
5 Swing the alternator into position to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
assembly, then refit and tighten the upper
mounting bolt, then the lower throughbolt.
6 Check the full length of the drivebelt for cracks
and deterioration and renew if necessary.
7 Fit the drivebelt using a reversal of the
removal procedure, and release the tensioner
to tension the drivebelt.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Depressurize the cooling system by
unscrewing the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system
is hot.
3 Slacken the hose clips on all the hoses

which are connected to the tank. Pull off and
plug those hoses which are above the
waterline.

4 Remove the two screws which secure the
tank. Tilt the tank so that the coolant lies away
from the outlets, then disconnect and plug the
remaining hose.
5 Disconnect the coolant level sensor, when
fitted, and remove the tank.
6 Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Top-up the cooling system on completion.

1 The temperature gauge sender is located
towards the front of the engine. On SOHC
models it is just below the inlet manifold (see
illustration); on V6 models it is just below the
top hose connection on the front of the left­hand cylinder head, and on DOHC models it is
located at the front of the inlet manifold (see

illustration).
2 Slacken the expansion tank cap to release
pressure in the cooling system, taking
precautions against scalding if the system
is hot. Tighten the cap again to minimise

coolant loss.
3 Disconnect the wiring from the sender unit.
Unscrew and remove it, being prepared for
some coolant spillage.
4 Smear sealant on the sender unit threads
before refitting, then insert and tighten it.
Reconnect the wiring.
5 Top-up the cooling system if necessary,
then run the engine and check the operation of
the temperature gauge.

The cooling fan switch is located in the end

of the thermostat housing.

Removal and refitting of the switch is as
described for the temperature gauge sender in
the previous Section.

Models before April 1992

Front

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the instrument cluster (Chapter 13).
3 Remove the facia top (Chapter 12).
4 Unclip the two control cables from the
control levers (see illustration).
5 On air conditioned models, disconnect the

hoses from the vacuum switch.
6 Remove the four screws which secure the
heater control assembly. Withdraw the
assembly from the facia.
7 When refitting, secure the control assembly
with the four screws. Reconnect the vacuum
switch (when applicable) and the control
cables. Adjust the control cables if necessary
by altering the positions of the cable clips.
8 When satisfied with the operation of the
cables, refit the other disturbed components.

Rear

9 Remove the centre console (Chapter 12).
10 Unclip the control cables and remove the

control unit.
11 Refit in the reverse order to removal.

Models from April 1992

12 Undo the two instrument panel surround
retaining screws, then carefully release the
retaining clips and remove the surround from
the facia.
13 Pull off the three knobs from the heater
and ventilation controls to gain access to the
two hidden central vent panel retaining
screws. Slacken and remove the four panel
retaining screws and partially withdraw the

17 Heater controls - removal and

refitting

16 Cooling fan switch - removal

and refitting

15 Temperature gauge sender -

removal and refitting

14 Expansion tank - removal and

refitting

13 Water pump/alternator

drivebelt tensioner - removal

and refitting

12 Water pump/alternator

drivebelt(s) - inspection,

renewal and adjustment

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•7

3

13.4 On refitting, ensure the drivebelt

tensioner lug (A) engages with hole in the

mounting bracket (B)

15.1a Temperature gauge sender (manifold
removed)

15.1b Temperature gauge sender unit
location (arrowed)

17.4 Heater control cable clip (arrowed)
viewed through windscreen

panel. Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the heated window switches and fuel
computer (where fitted) and remove the panel
from the car.
14 Undo the two retaining screws then
manoeuvre the control panel out of the facia
and disconnect the wiring connector (see

illustration).
15 Unclip the central fan switch from the

panel then, using a small flat-bladed
screwdriver, bend back the retaining tabs and
remove the cover from the panel base plate

(see illustration).
16 Cut the cable retaining clips then release

the cables from the toothed guides and
remove the base plate.
17 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure securing the cables to the base
plate using new retaining clips.

Models before April 1992

Front

1 Remove the heater controls as described in

the previous Section.
2 Remove the centre console as described in
Chapter 12. Also remove the console bracket
and the gear lever inner gaiter.
3 Unclip the under-dash trim on both sides.
Remove the glovebox lid.

4 Remove the radio (Chapter 13).
5 Remove the ABS and (when applicable) the

EEC IV modules (Chapters 10 and 13).
6 Remove the remaining lower trim on the
passenger side to expose the heater casing.
7 Remove the two securing screws and
release the cables from the heater.
8 When refitting, place the air distribution and
temperature control valve levers in their
uppermost positions, then connect the cables.
9 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure.

Rear

10 Remove the centre console (Chapter 12).
11 Remove the front seat on the side

concerned. Also remove the rear seat cushion.

12 Remove the front seat belt lower anchor bolt.
13 Remove the front scuff plate, which is

secured by three screws. Remove the front
screw from the rear scuff plate.
14 Roll back the front carpet from the scuff
plates to expose the heater cable. Release the
cable from its ties and disconnect it from the
control unit and the nozzle (see illustration).
15 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

Models from April 1992

16 Remove the facia undercovers, the right­hand lower facia panel and the glovebox .
17 Undo the two retaining nuts, then release
the retaining clips and remove the trim panel
from the glovebox aperture.

18 Remove the heater control panel.
19 Slacken and remove the control cable

retaining screws then release the retaining
clips (one screw and one clip for each cable).
Detach the cables from the heater assembly
and withdraw them from the facia whilst noting
the correct routing (see illustration).
20 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure noting the following points.

a) Ensure that the cables are correctly routed

prior to connecting them to the heater
housing.

b) Prior to refitting the glovebox aperture trim

panel, check that the panel controls
function correctly and that the cables
move the relevant operating lever
smoothly from the fully open to the fully
closed position without any trace of undue
friction.

Models before April 1992

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Depressurise the cooling system by

slackening the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.

3 Disconnect the two heater hoses from the
stubs on the bulkhead. Be prepared for some
coolant spillage: catch the coolant in a clean
container if it is fit for re-use. Plug the hoses,
or tie them up with their open ends raised.
4 Expel as much coolant as possible from the
heater matrix by blowing through it.
5 Remove the matrix connector plate and
gasket from the bulkhead.
6 Working inside the vehicle, remove the
centre console and other trim as described for
access to the heater control cables .
7 Remove the instrument cluster surround,
which is secured by four screws. Also pull out
the heater louvre panel.
8 Remove the facia panel top, which is
secured by five screws and four clips.
9 Detach the air trunking from the heater
casing. Release the trunking from the
bulkhead when necessary.
10 Remove the two nuts which secure the
heater unit. Pull the unit into the vehicle until
the pipe stubs are clear of the bulkhead, then
remove it sideways. Be prepared for coolant
spillage.
11 Check the condition of the foam gasket on
the bulkhead and renew it if necessary.

12 Refit by reversing the removal operations.
13 Top-up the cooling system on completion,

and check the level again after the engine has
been run.

Models from April 1992

14 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
15 Drain the cooling system.

19 Heater assembly - removal

and refitting

18 Heater control cables -

removal and refitting

3•8 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

17.14 Heater control panel retaining screws
(arrowed)

18.19 Heater control cable retaining screw
and clip (arrowed)

17.15 Exploded view of the heater control
panel

A Control cable retaining clips
B Cover
C Fan switch
D Base plate

18.14 Rear heater control cable at nozzle

16 Locate the heater matrix feed and return

hoses on the engine compartment bulkhead.
Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
both hoses from the matrix unions. Be
prepared for some coolant spillage. Plug the
matrix unions to prevent residual coolant
being spilt as the assembly is removed.
17 Slacken and remove the two retaining
screws then remove the matrix cover plate
and gasket from the bulkhead; discard the
gasket as a new one should be used on
refitting.

18 Remove the facia panel.
19 Release the facia wiring loom from the

bulkhead to gain access to the demister
nozzle fasteners (see illustration).
20 Remove the retaining nut and screw then
detach each windscreen demister nozzle from
the heater assembly. Undo the two retaining
nuts and detach the centre face level nozzle
from the heater.
21 Slacken and remove the two retaining nuts
then detach the right-hand face level nozzle
from the heater and remove it from the vehicle.
Repeat the procedure for the left-hand nozzle.
22 To detach each rear footwell nozzle from
the heater unit, remove the pin from the nozzle
retaining clip whilst supporting the outer part
of the retaining clip from the rear (see

illustration). Note: If the rear of the clip is not
supported when the pin is removed it will drop
down into the nozzle. To retrieve the clip will
require the removal of the vent which first
requires the front seat to be removed and
carpet lifted.

23 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
heater control panel.
24 Undo the two nuts securing the heater
assembly to the bulkhead then carefully
manoeuvre the assembly out of the vehicle
whilst being prepared for the possibility of
coolant spillage from the matrix unions.
25 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure noting the following points.

a) Tighten all retaining nuts and screws

securely and ensure that all nozzles are
securely connected to the heater
assembly so that there are no air gaps or
leaks.

b) Check the operation of all heater cables

before refitting the facia, ensuring that the
relevant component moves smoothly from
the fully open to the fully closed position.

c) Ensure that the heater hoses are correctly

reconnected and are securely held by the
retaining clips.

d) Use a new gasket when refitting the matrix

cover plate.

e) Refill the cooling system.

1 Remove the heater assembly as described
in the previous Section.
2 Remove the two screws which secure the
heater matrix. Withdraw the matrix.
3 If the matrix is leaking it is best to obtain a
new or reconditioned unit; home repairs are
seldom successful.

4 To dismantle, release the clips which secure
the casing halves together by using a
screwdriver. Carefully prise the halves apart
and separate them.
5 Remove the flap valves and operating levers
from the casing halves, noting how they are
fitted for reference when reassembling.
6 Flush the matrix with clean water to remove
any debris.
7 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling.
Additional clips may be needed to secure the
casing halves once they have been separated.

1 Drain the cooling system.
2 Noting the correct fitted positions, slacken

the retaining clips and disconnect the coolant
hoses from the valve.
3 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top of
the valve then unclip the valve and remove it
from the retaining bracket.
4 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure ensuring that the coolant hoses are
reconnected to their original unions on the
valve and are securely held in position with the
retaining clips.

1 Only those items which can be renewed
without discharging the system are described
here. Other items must be dealt with by a Ford
dealer or air conditioning specialist (see

illustration).

Compressor drivebelt

2 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
3 On OHC engines, remove the radiator

cooling fan.
4 Slacken the compressor strap and pivot
bolts (see illustration), move the compressor

22 Air conditioning system -

component renewal

21 Heater coolant valve -

removal and refitting

20 Heater matrix - dismantling

and reassembly

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•9

3

19.19 Release the facia wiring loom from
the bulkhead to gain access to the

demister nozzle retaining nut and screw

(arrowed)

19.22 Detach the rear footwell nozzles from
the heater assembly

If the heater matrix is blocked
it can sometimes be cleared
by reverse-flushing using a
garden hose and a proprietary

radiator cleaning product if necessary.

22.1 Air conditioning system
component locations

1 De-ice thermostat
2 Evaporator
3 Expansion valve
4 Compressor
5 Compressor clutch
6 Pressure switch
7 Sight glass
8 Dehydrator
9 Cooling fan
10 Condenser

towards the engine and remove the old
drivebelt.
5 Fit the new drivebelt, position the
compressor to achieve the correct belt tension
and tighten the strap and pivot bolts.
6 Refit and secure the fan, when applicable,
and reconnect the battery.
7 Recheck the belt tension after it has run for
at least 10 minutes under load.

Condenser fan and motor

8 Disconnect the battery earth lead and
remove the radiator grille.
9 Disconnect the fan wiring connector at the
right-hand side of the condenser.
10 Remove the three securing bolts and

remove the fan and motor (see illustration).
Turn the frame to position the fan wiring on the
dehydrator side to avoid damaging the wiring.
Take care also not to damage the condenser
fins or tube.
11 Unclip the fan guard from the top of the
frame.
12 To remove the fan blades from the motor,
remove the retaining nut and circlip. The nut

has a left-hand thread ie it is undone
clockwise.
13 With the blades removed, the motor can

be unscrewed from the frame.
14 Reassemble and refit in the reverse order
of dismantling and removal.

De-ice thermostat

15 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
16 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the

plenum chamber cover. Pull off the rubber seal
and remove the plenum chamber cover; it is
secured by four screws and one nut.
17 Disconnect the thermostat from the
evaporator casing and remove it. Also remove
the thermostat probe.
18 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

Heater water valve

19 The heater water valve used with air
conditioning is vacuum-operated. It is located
on the right-hand side of the engine bay, near
the bulkhead.

20 Drain the cooling system.
21 Slacken the hose clips and detach the

coolant hoses from the valve, noting how they
are connected.
22 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the valve.
23 Unclip the valve from its bracket and
remove it.
24 Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Refill the cooling system.

3•10 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

22.4 Air conditioning compressor adjuster
strap bolts (arrowed)

22.10 Condenser fan securing bolts
(arrowed)

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

Air cleaner and element - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Air cleaner temperature control - description and testing . . . . . . . . .3

Carbon canister - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Carbon canister purge solenoid - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .45

Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor - removal and refitting . . . . . .43

Exhaust manifold(s) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Exhaust system - inspection, repair and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Fuel cut-off inertia switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Fuel filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Fuel-injection system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Fuel-injection system - idle speed and mixture adjustments . . . . . .31

Fuel-injection system relays - location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Fuel-injectors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Fuel pressure regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Fuel pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Fuel rail temperature switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Idle speed control valve - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Mixture adjustment potentiometer - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .38

Pierburg 2V carburettor - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . .13

Pierburg 2V carburettor - fast idle adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Pierburg 2V carburettor - idle speed and mixture adjustments . . . .11

Pierburg 2V carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Throttle body - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Throttle cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Throttle pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Throttle position sensor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Unleaded fuel - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Vane airflow meter(s) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Vapour separator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Weber 2V carburettor - automatic choke adjustment . . . . . . . . . . .18

Weber 2V carburettor - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Weber 2V carburettor - idle speed and mixture adjustments . . . . .15

Weber 2V carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Weber 2V TLD carburettor - automatic choke unit removal,

refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Weber 2V TLD carburettor - accelerator pump diapragm renewal .25
Weber 2V TLD carburettor - idle speed and mixture adjustments . .19
Weber 2V TLD carburettor - low vacuum enrichment

diaphragm renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Weber 2V TLD carburettor - needle valve and float removal,

refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Weber 2V TLD carburettor - power valve diaphragm renewal . . . . .23

Weber 2V TLD carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Weber 2V TLD carburettor - secondary throttle valve vacuum

diaphragm renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Weber 2V TLD carburettor - throttle kicker removal, refitting

and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

General

System type:

1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Twin choke Pierburg carburettor

2.0 litre carburettor:

SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Twin choke Weber 2V carburettor

DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Twin choke Weber 2V TLD carburettor

All models with fuel injection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multi-point fuel-injection system controlled by EEC IV engine

management system

Fuel tank capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 litres (15.4 gallons) approx

Fuel grade*:

Leaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 octane RON (UK 4-star)

Unleaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 octane RON (Premium)

* Models fitted with a catalytic converter must be operated on unleaded fuel at all times. Do not use leaded fuel as the catalyst will be destroyed.

Idle speed:

1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 ± 20 rpm

2.0 litre carburettor:

SOHC* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 or 875 rpm

DOHC:

Manual gearbox* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 25 rpm

Automatic transmission* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 875 ± 25 rpm

2.0 litre fuel-injection:

SOHC* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 or 875 rpm

DOHC* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 875 ± 50 rpm

4•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

4

4•2 Fuel and exhaust systems

Idle speed (continued):

2.4 litre*. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm

2.8 litre* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 rpm

2.9 litre* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm

Idle mixture (CO) level:

1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3%

2.0 litre carburettor:

SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 to 1.50%

DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 ± 0.25%

2.0 litre fuel-injection:

SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.0%

DOHC - models without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.5%

2.4 litre - models without a catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.0 %

2.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.0%

2.9 litre - models without a catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.0 %

*Electronically controlled

Pierburg 2V carburettor

Venturi diameter:

Primary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 mm

Secondary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 mm

Jet sizes:

Idle (fuel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Idle (air bleed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115

Primary main . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107.5

Secondary main . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130

Adjustments:

Fast idle speed (engine warm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1800 ± 100 rpm (on second highest step of cam)

Choke pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 mm (0.12 in)

Throttle damper setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 ± 0.5 mm (0.08 ± 0.02 in)

Float level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not adjustable

Automatic choke setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Index

Weber 2V carburettor Primary Secondary

Barrel diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 mm 34 mm

Venturi diameter:

85HFCA and -DA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 mm 27 mm

85HFGA, -HA, -MA and -NA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 mm 25 mm

Jet sizes - 85HFCA:

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 135

Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 150

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F22 F22

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 45

Jet sizes - 85HFDA:

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 135

Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 150

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F22 F22

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 45

Jet sizes - 85HFGA and -HA:

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 125

Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 160

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F59 F59

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 50

Jet sizes - 85HFMA:

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 130

Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 160

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F59 F59

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 50

Jet sizes - 85HFNA:

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 125

Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 160

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F59 F59

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 50

Adjustments:

Choke pull-down (maximum):

85HFCA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 mm (0.35 in)

85HFDA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm (0.32 in)

All others . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 mm (0.30 in)

Bi-metal housing setting:

85 HFCA, -DA, -HA and -MA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Index

85HFGA and -NA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 mm (0.12 in) lean

Float level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 to 8.5 mm (0.30 to 0.34 in)

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•3

4

Weber 2V TLD carburettor Primary Secondary

Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23.0 mm 25.0 mm

Main jet:

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 157

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 157

Air correction jet:

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 145

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 145

Emulsion tube:

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F114 F3

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 145

Fast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1800 ± 50 rpm

Float level (with gasket) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 ± 0.5 mm

Automatic choke vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 ± 0.5 mm

Throttle kicker speed (see text):

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2000 ± 50 rpm

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2200 ± 50 rpm

Fuel-injection system

Make . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch

Fuel pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Roller cell, electric

Fuel pump output pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Greater than 5 bar at 12 volts, no flow

System control pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Inlet manifold:

SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 24 15 to 18

V6:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 8 3 to 6

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 15 6 to 11

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 21 11 to 16

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18

Stage 5 (after warm-up) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18

Exhaust manifold:

OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18

V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 30 18 to 22

Plenum chamber to inlet manifold:

2.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 10 5 to 7

2.4 & 2.9 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

Carburettor bolts (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7

Fuel pump bolts (mechanical pump) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 18 10 to 13

Fuel pipe to fuel-injection pressure regulator:

SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 20 11 to 15

2.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 12 7 to 9

Pressure regulator base nut/bolt:

SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9

V6:

2.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 20 11 to 15

2.4 & 2.9 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 7 to 8

Fuel rail bolts:

SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 7 to 8

DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 26 15 to 19

Exhaust downpipe flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30

Exhaust clamps and U-bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 to 45 28 to 33

Exhaust gas oxygen sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 70 37 to 52

Throttle body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 7 to 8

Idle speed control valve bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 7 to 8

Fuel filter unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 20 10 to 15

Fuel rail temperature sensor (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Fuel rail temperature switch (2.4 & 2.9 litre) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

HEGO sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 70 37 to 52

All models are fitted with a rear-mounted fuel
tank. Fuel is conveyed from the tank by a
mechanical or electrical fuel pump, according to

model and equipment, to the carburettor or fuel­injection system. The delivery capacity of the
fuel pump exceeds the maximum demands of
the system, so excess fuel is constantly returned
to the tank. This helps to avoid the problems of
vapour locks in the fuel lines.

Carburettor models have a twin venturi

downdraught carburettor of Pierburg
manufacture on 1.8 litre models and Weber on

2.0 litre models. Both makes of carburettor
have an automatic choke.

Fuel-injection, when fitted, is of the Bosch
L-Jetronic type. This system is under the
control of the EEC IV module.

1 General information and

precautions

The exhaust system fitted in production is
made of aluminised steel, with stainless steel
used in the endplates and baffles of the rear
silencer. Individual sections of the system are
easily renewed in service.

Emission control for the UK market is
achieved largely by the inherent efficiency of
the fuel, ignition and engine management
systems. A welcome spin-off from such
efficiency is remarkably good fuel economy for
a vehicle of such size and weight.

Precautions

Fuel

Many of the procedures in this Chapter
require the removal of fuel lines and
connections which may result in some fuel
spillage. Residual pressure in fuel-injection
systems will remain in the fuel lines long after
the vehicle was last used, therefore extra care
must be taken when disconnecting a fuel line
hose. Loosen any fuel hose slowly to avoid a
sudden release of pressure which may cause
fuel spray. As an added precaution place a rag
over each union as it is disconnected to catch
any fuel which is forcibly expelled. Before
carrying out any operation on the fuel system
refer to the precautions given in “Safety first!”
at the beginning of this Manual and follow
them implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous
and volatile liquid and the precautions
necessary when handling it cannot be
overstressed

Tamperproof adjustment screws

Certain adjustment points in the fuel system
(and elsewhere) are protected by tamperproof
caps, plugs or seals. The purpose of such
tamperproofing is to discourage, and to deter,
adjustment by unqualified operators.

In some EU countries (though not yet in the
UK) it is an offence to drive a vehicle with
missing or broken tamperproof seals. Before
disturbing a tamperproof seal, satisfy yourself
that you will not be breaking local or national
anti-pollution regulations by doing so. Fit a
new seal when adjustment is complete when
this is required by law.

Do not break tamperproof seals on a vehicle
which is still under warranty.

Catalytic converter

The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device which needs no maintenance in
itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for the full service life.

a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a car

equipped with a catalytic converter the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.

b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems

well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule - particularly,
ensure that the air cleaner filter element,
the fuel filter and the spark plugs are
renewed at the correct interval - if the inlet

air/fuel mixture is allowed to become too
rich due to neglect, the unburned surplus
will enter and burn in the catalytic
converter, overheating the element and
eventually destroying the converter.

c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not

drive the car at all (or at least as little as
possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in
overheating, as noted above.

d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the car - this

will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat when
the engine does start - see b) above.

e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high

engine speeds - if the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of igniting on the element and damaging
the converter.

f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -

these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.

g) DO NOT continue to use the car if the

engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke - the unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce the efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.

h) Remember that the catalytic converter

operates at very high temperatures ­hence the heat shields on the car’s
underbody and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
which brush against it - DO NOT,
therefore, park the car in dry undergrowth,
over long grass or piles of dead leaves.

i) Remember that the catalytic converter is

FRAGILE, do not strike it with tools during
servicing work, take great care when
working on the exhaust system, ensure
that the converter is well clear of any jacks
or other lifting gear used to raise the car
and do not drive the car over rough
ground, road humps, etc, in such a way as
to “ground” the exhaust system.

j) In some cases, particularly when the car is

new and/or is used for stop/start driving, a
sulphurous smell (like that of rotten eggs)

may be noticed from the exhaust. This is
common to many catalytic converter­equipped cars and seems to be due to the
small amount of sulphur found in some
petrols reacting with hydrogen in the
exhaust to produce hydrogen sulphide
(H

2

S) gas; while this gas is toxic, it is not
produced in sufficient amounts to be a
problem. Once the car has covered a few
thousand miles the problem should
disappear - in the meanwhile a change of
driving style or of the brand of petrol used
may effect a solution.

k) The catalytic converter, used on a well-

maintained and well-driven car, should
last for between 50 000 and 100 000 miles

- from this point on, careful checks should
be made at all specified service intervals
of the CO level to ensure that the
converter is still operating efficiently - if
the converter is no longer effective it must
be renewed.

See Chapter 1, Section 38.

1 On carburettor models only, the air cleaner
can take in both hot and cold air. Hot air is
obtained from a shroud bolted to the exhaust
manifold.
2 A flap valve in the air cleaner spout
determines the mix of hot and cold air. The
valve is operated by a vacuum diaphragm.
Vacuum is obtained from the inlet manifold
and is applied via a heat-sensing valve, which
cuts off the vacuum as the temperature of the
incoming air rises. Thus the air cleaner takes in
only hot air on starting from cold, changing
progressively to cold air as the engine warms
up (see illustrations).
3 If the system fails, either the engine will take
a long time to warm up (flap stuck in “cold”
position), or it may run roughly and not
develop full power when warm (flap stuck in
“hot” position). Check it as follows.

3 Air cleaner temperature control

- description and testing

2 Air cleaner and element -

removal and refitting

4•4 Fuel and exhaust systems

3.2b Air cleaner heat sensor3.2a Air cleaner vacuum diaphragm unit

4 With the engine cold, disconnect the cold

air inlet trunking from the spout. Look into the
spout and check that the flap valve is covering
the hot air inlet.
5 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
that the flap moves to cover the cold air inlet. If
the flap does not move, check the diaphragm
and heat sensor as follows.
6 Stop the engine. Disconnect the diaphragm
vacuum pipe from the heat sensor. Apply
vacuum to the diaphragm, using a vacuum
head pump or by connecting the pipe directly
to manifold vacuum. If the flap now moves, the
heat sensor or vacuum line was faulty. If the
flap still does not move, the diaphragm is
faulty or the flap is jammed.
7 On completion reconnect the vacuum pipe
and the cold air trunking.

Mechanical

1 Carburettor models without air conditioning
are fitted with a mechanical fuel pump, located
on the left-hand side of the engine block.
2 To test the pump, disconnect the ignition
coil LT lead. Disconnect the outlet hose from
the pump and place a wad of rag next to the
pump outlet. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
3 Have an assistant crank the engine on the
starter. Well-defined spurts of fuel must be

ejected from the pump outlet - if not, the pump
is probably faulty (or the tank is empty).
Dispose of the fuel-soaked rag safely.
4 To remove the fuel pump, first disconnect
the battery negative lead.
5 Disconnect and plug the pump inlet and
outlet hoses. Be prepared for fuel spillage.
6 Unscrew the two bolts and withdraw the
pump from the cylinder block. Remove the
gasket. If necessary extract the pushrod (see

illustrations).
7 Clean the exterior of the pump in paraffin

and wipe dry. Clean all traces of gasket from
the cylinder block and pump flange.
8 If the fuel pump has a removable cover,
remove the screw and withdraw the cover and
nylon mesh filter with seal (see illustrations).
Clean the filter, cover and pump in fuel. Locate
the filter in the cover and fit the cover to the
pump so that the pipe and indentation are
aligned. Tighten the screw.
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque. If necessary discard the
crimped type hose clips and fit screw type
clips.

Electrical

SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines

10 All fuel-injection models, and carburettor

models when fitted with air conditioning, have
an electric fuel pump. The two types of pump
are not the same, although both are mounted
under the vehicle next to the fuel tank.

11 If the fuel pump appears to have failed
completely, check the appropriate fuse and
relay. On fuel-injection models, also check the
inertia switch (when fitted).
12 To test the carburettor type pump,
disconnect the fuel supply hose from the
pressure regulator or vapour separator in the
engine compartment. Lead the hose into a
measuring cylinder.
13 Take appropriate fire precautions. Switch
on the ignition for 30 seconds and measure
the quantity of fuel delivered: it should be at
least 400 cc (0.7 pint).
14 To test the fuel-injection type pump,
special equipment is required. Consult a Ford
dealer or other fuel-injection specialist. The
problem may be due to a clogged filter.
15 To remove a pump, first disconnect the
battery negative lead. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
16 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
Clean the fuel pump and its surroundings.
17 Clamp the tank-to-pump hose, or make
arrangements to collect the contents of the
fuel tank which will otherwise be released.
18 Place a drain pan beneath the pump.
Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses; be
prepared for fuel spillage. Caution: Fuel under

pressure may spray out of the outlet hose
union as it is slackened.

19 Disconnect the wiring plug from the pump.
20 Slacken the pump bracket clamp bolt and

slide the pump out of the bracket.
21 Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that all hoses and unions are in
good condition.
22 On2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines up to mid­1990, switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
fuel system then check the pump unions for
signs of leakage.

23 Run the engine and check for leaks.

DOHC engine

24 On these models the fuel pump is

mounted in the fuel tank, on the same
mounting as the fuel level sender unit (see
illustration). To test the pump specialist
equipment is required, therefore this task must
be entrusted to a Ford dealer.

4 Fuel pump - testing, removal

and refitting

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5

4

4.6a Removing the mechanical fuel pump 4.6b Fuel pump pushrod

4.8a Removing the fuel pump cover - note
alignment indentations

4.8b Fuel pump cover and filter screen

A Fuel pump B Fuel level sender unit

4.24 Combined fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit

25 To remove the pump, first remove the fuel

tank.
26 Unscrew the fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit by engaging two crossed screwdrivers in
the slots on either side of the unit mounting
flange. Recover the seal.
27 Refitting is a reversal of removal. It is
necessary to fit a new seal.

1 Run the fuel level as low as possible before
removing the tank.

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 Remove the fuel filler cap. Siphon or pump

the remaining fuel out of the tank. Store the
fuel in a suitable sealed container.
4 Remove the two screws on either side of the
filler neck.

5 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
6 Remove the shield from the right-hand rear

inner wheel arch. Also remove the rear bumper
undershield. which is secured by six screws.
7 Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines
from the tank (see illustration). Drain the fuel
in the lines into a suitable container and
remove it.
8 Support the fuel tank. Remove the two bolts
which secure the rear ends of the fuel tank
supporting straps.
9 Lower the tank and supporting straps,

unhooking the front ends of the straps from
their locations. Disconnect the wiring and the
vent hose from the tank. Remove the tank with
filler pipe attached.
10 Fuel tank repairs including soldering or
welding must be left to specialists. Even when
empty, the tank may contain explosive vapour.
Proprietary compounds are available for
making temporary “cold” repairs.
11 Refit the fuel tank in the reverse order to
removal. Check for leaks on completion.

1 Remove the fuel tank.
2 Unscrew the sender unit from the tank.

There is a Ford tool (No 23-014) which
engages with the lugs on the unit, but with
patience a pair of crossed screwdrivers or
similar items can be used instead.
3 Remove the sender unit, taking care not to
damage the float or bend the float arm (see

illustration). Recover the seal.
4 A defective sender unit must be renewed;

spares are not available. Renew the seal in any
case.

5 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

1 Fitted to DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6

engined models, this device is designed to cut

off pressurised fuel to the fuel-injection system
in the event of an accident. It does this by
interrupting the electrical supply to the fuel
pump.
2 To remove the switch, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3 Open up the tailgate and locate the switch
which is mounted near the tailgate lock striker.
On Estate models the switch is located behind
a trim panel in the rear right-hand corner of the
luggage compartment (see illustration).
4 Remove the trim panel and disconnect the
switch wiring connector (see illustrations).
5 Extract the two retaining screws and
remove the switch.
6 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure. On completion, depress the switch
button to ensure that the switch has been
reset.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Unclip the under-dash insulation on the

driver’s side.
3 Disconnect the cable from the pedal. The
cable may be secured by a clip, or it may slot
into a “keyhole” fitting (see illustration).
4 Remove the two nuts which secure the
throttle pedal bracket to the bulkhead.
Remove the pedal and bracket.

5 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

8 Throttle pedal - removal and

refitting

7 Fuel cut-off inertia switch -

removal and refitting

6 Fuel gauge sender unit -

removal and refitting

5 Fuel tank - removal and refitting

4•6 Fuel and exhaust systems

5.7 Fuel tank supply (left) and return hoses

7.4a On early models it will be necessary to
remove the luggage compartment rear trim

panel to gain access to the fuel cut-off

inertia switch . . .

7.4b . . . on later models an access cover in
the trim panel is provided

8.3 Throttle pedal showing “keyhole” cable
fitting (arrowed)

6.3 Removing the fuel gauge sender unit 7.3 Fuel cut-off inertia switch location ­Estate models

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Disconnect the cable from the pedal.
3 Working under the bonnet, free the cable

outer from the bulkhead and pull the cable into
the engine bay.

4 On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.

5 On V6 models, remove the throttle linkage
cover, which is secured by three screws (see
illustrations).
6 Disconnect the cable inner from the throttle

lever on the carburettor or fuel-injection linkage.
The cable may be secured by a spring clip, or by
a simple barrel and slot arrangement (see

illustration).
7 Disconnect the cable outer from its bracket.

It may be secured by a spring clip, or by four
plastic lugs. The lugs are most easily released
with a tool (see illustration).
8 Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Adjust the threaded sleeve on the cable outer
so that there is a small amount of slack with
the pedal released; have an assistant operate
the throttle pedal and check that the throttle
lever moves over its full range of travel.
9 On automatic transmission models, check
the adjustment of the kickdown cable.

1 All carburettor models are fitted with a
vapour separator, mounted on the left-hand
inner wing. On 1.8 litre models the separator
incorporates a pressure regulator (see

illustrations).

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 Identify the three hoses connected to the

separator. Disconnect the hoses, cutting off
the hose clips if they are of the crimped type.
4 Remove the two securing screws and lift out
the separator. Remember it is full of fuel.
5 Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the different hoses are
connected to the correct stubs on the
regulator. Use new hose clips when
necessary.

See Chapter 1, Sections 15 and 16.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the air cleaner.
3 Disconnect the automatic choke electrical

lead from the manifold thermo-switch.

4 Unclip the throttle arm from the throttle lever
(see illustration).
5 Disconnect the fuel hose from the

carburettor and plug it. If a crimped hose clip
is fitted, cut it off and use a worm drive clip
when refitting (see illustration).
6 Depressurise the cooling system by
removing the expansion tank filler cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.

12 Pierburg 2V carburettor -

removal and refitting

11 Pierburg 2V carburettor - idle

speed and mixture adjustments

10 Vapour separator - removal

and refitting

9 Throttle cable - removal and

refitting

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•7

4

9.5a Three screws (arrowed) secure the
throttle linkage cover

9.5b Throttle linkage with cover removed 9.6 Removing a throttle cable inner - barrel
and slot type

12.4 Throttle arm-to-lever clip (arrowed)

9.7 Tool for releasing accelerator cable
lugs

A 25 mm (1 in)
B Centrepunch indents

C 16 mm (0.63 in)

10.1a Fuel vapour separator without
pressure regulator

A Fuel return
B Fuel supply

C Carburettor supply

10.1b Fuel vapour separator and pressure
regulator

A Fuel supply
B Carburettor supply

C Fuel return

7 Disconnect and plug the automatic choke
coolant hoses (see illustration). Be prepared
for coolant spillage.
8 Remove the three Torx screws which secure
the carburettor to the manifold (see

illustration).
9 Check that no attachments have been

overlooked, then lift the carburettor off the
manifold. Recover the gasket.
10 Clean the carburettor and manifold mating

surfaces, being careful not to get dirt into the
manifold.
11 Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Top-up the cooling system if necessary on
completion, then check the idle speed and
mixture.
12 On engines from September 1986, a
modified carburettor was fitted which
incorporates a secondary choke pull-down
diaphragm that assists in reducing fuel
consumption (see illustration). If such a
replacement carburettor is to be fitted to
earlier models, always use a new mounting

gasket and also carry out the following
operations.

a) Obtain the special wiring loom and connect

the wiring connector (see illustration).

b) Disconnect the positive feed wire from the

ignition coil and then connect the leads of
the new loom to the positive terminal of the
coil and the end of the disconnected
positive feed wire.

c) Connect the loom earth eyelet to one of the

ignition coil retaining screws.

d) After fitting the air cleaner, check the

carburettor settings (Section 11).

4•8 Fuel and exhaust systems

12.5 Crimped hose clip (arrowed) must be
renewed

12.12 Pierburg 2V carburettor fitted to later

1.8 litre engines

A Fuel inlet hose
B Swivel clip location
C Diaphragm hose
D Diaphragm (secondary choke pulldown)

12.13 Wiring connections to Pierburg 2V

carburettor fitted to later 1.8 litre engines

A Loom
B Secondary choke pulldown diaphragm
C Earth
D Original coil connector

12.7 Disconnecting a coolant hose from the
automatic choke

12.8 Undoing a carburettor securing screw.
Other two screws are arrowed

13.4 Exploded view of Pierburg 2V carburettor

A Bi-metal housing
B O-ring
C Water jacket
D Pull-down diaphragm

unit

E Secondary throttle

diaphragm unit

F Idle speed adjustment

screw

G Accelerator pump

diaphragm
H Power valve
J Throttle damper (not

all models)
K Carburettor body
L Fuel inlet pipe and

filter
M Primary main jet

N Secondary

main jet
O Top cover
P Idle jet