Ford Orion User Manual

Engine

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Oil filter:

HCS and CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104

Zetec engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C148

Cooling system

Coolant protection at standard 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -25ºC (-13ºF)

Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -30ºC (-22ºF)

Coolant specific gravity at standard 40% antifreeze/water

mixture ratio and 15ºC/59ºF - with no other additives in coolant . . . . . 1.061

Fuel system

Idle speed*:

1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)

1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)

1.6 litre CVH (fuel-injected) engine:

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 ± 50 rpm

Base idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ± 50 rpm

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Door and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Ford Escort and Orion maintenance schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Ignition timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 5

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Oil filler cap check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system check and

filter cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Routine maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . 12

Valve clearance adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Windscreen/tailgate washer system and wiper blade check . . . . . . 6

1•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Fuel system (continued)

Idle mixture CO content*:

1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 ± 0.5%

1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 ± 0.5%

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.5%

1.6 litre CVH (fuel-injected) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 ± 0.25%

*Note:

The idle speed and mixture CO content is only adjustable on the engines shown above. On all other engines, it is controlled by the engine

management system, and cannot be checked or adjusted without specialised test equipment.

Air filter element:

1.3 litre HCS engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W225

1.4 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W226

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W226

1.6 litre CVH (fuel-injected) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U612

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U612

Fuel filter:

1.3 litre HCS (CFi fuel-injected) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel-injected) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

1.6 litre CVH (fuel-injected) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L218

Ignition system

Firing order:

HCS engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end of engine)

All other engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)

Spark plugs*:

1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC

1.4 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel-injected) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC6YCC or RC6YC

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RE7YCC

Electrode gap*:

1.3 litre HCS engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel-injected) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Spark plug (HT) leads:

HCS engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-28

1.4 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-27

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-27

1.6 litre CVH (fuel-injected) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-26

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Braking system

Minimum front or rear brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm

Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Tyre pressures (cold) Front Rear

Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models:

Normally-laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bars (29 psi) 1.8 bars (26 psi)

Fully-laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 bars (34 psi) 2.8 bars (40 psi)

Van models:

Normally-laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bars (29 psi) 1.8 bars (26 psi)

Fully-laden*

With 165 R 13 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 bars (34 psi) 3.0 bars (44 psi)

With 165 R 13 reinforced tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 bars (34 psi) 3.5 bars (51 psi)

Note: Normally-laden means up to 3 persons. For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary. Consult the driver’s handbook supplied with the vehicle.

Wiper blades

Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103

Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103

1•2 Servicing Specifications

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 10 4 to 7

Auxiliary drivebelt adjustment:

Adjusting bolt (sliding arm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 25 13 to 18

Central (locking) bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 25 13 to 18

Pinion (adjuster) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 15 7 to 11

Alternator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 27 15 to 19

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21

Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 30 17 to 22

Spark plugs:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 20 12 to 15

CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 33 13 to 24

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 20 12 to 15

Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 100 52 to 74

Seat belt mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 45 22 to 331

Windscreen wiper arm nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 18 12.5 to 13

Lubricants and fluids

Servicing Specifications 1•3

Component or system Lubricant type/specification 1 Engine Multigrade engine oil to specification

API SG/CD or better, viscosity range 5W/50 to 10W/30

2 BC type manual SAE 80 high pressure gear oil to Ford

transmission specification SQM2C-9008-A 2 MTX-75 type manual Gear oil to Ford specification

transmission ESD-M2C-186-A 3 Automatic transmission Transmission fluid to Ford

specification ESP-M2C-166-H

4 Power steering Transmission fluid to Ford

specification ESP-M2C-166-H

5 Cooling system Soft water, and antifreeze (ethylene

glycol-based, suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems) to Ford specification ESD-M97B-49-A

6 Braking system Hydraulic fluid to Ford specification

ESD-M6C-57-A, Super DOT 4 or equivalent

Wheel hub bearing grease Grease to Ford specification (front and rear) SAM-1C-9111A

Capacities

Engine oil

At oil and filter change:

HCS engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres

CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.50 litres

Zetec engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25 litres

Difference between dipstick minimum and maximum

level notches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.0 litre

Cooling system

1.3 litre HCS engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.1 litres

1.4 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.6 litres

1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.8 litres

1.6 and 1.8 Zetec engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.4 litres

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.0 litres

Manual transmission

BC type (four-speed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 litres

BC type (five-speed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres

MTX-75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.4 litres

Automatic transmission

Without fluid cooler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres

With fluid cooler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.6 litres

Washer system reservoir

Excluding headlight washer system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres

Including headlight washer system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres

The manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule for these vehicles is as described below - note that the schedule starts from the vehicle’s date of registration. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for Escorts and Orions driven daily, but subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle, we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals are also recommended - the most important examples of these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals apply particularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in below-freezing temperatures.

When your vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a Ford dealer

service department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases, the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner. Note that this first free service (carried out by the selling dealer 1500 miles or 3 months after delivery), although an important check for a new vehicle, is not part of the regular maintenance schedule, and is therefore not mentioned here.

It should be noted that for the 1992 model year, the service time/mileage intervals were extended by the manufacturer to the periods shown in this schedule. Although these intervals can be applied retrospectively, owners of earlier vehicles may notice a discrepancy between this schedule and the one shown in the Service Guide supplied with the vehicle.

1•4 Maintenance Schedule

Ford Escort and Orion maintenance schedule

General

Weekly, when refuelling, or before any long journey

mm Check the engine oil level, and top-up if necessary

(Section 3)

mm Check the brake fluid level, and top-up if necessary

(Section 3). If repeated topping-up is required, check the system for leaks or damage at the earliest possible opportunity (Sections 12 and 22)

mm Check the windscreen/tailgate washer fluid level, and

top-up if necessary (Section 3)

mm Check the tyre pressures, including the spare (Section 4) mm Check the tyres for excessive tread wear, or damage

(Section 4)

mm Check the operation of all (exterior and interior) lights

and the horn, wipers and windscreen/tailgate washer system (Sections 6 and 8). Renew any blown bulbs (Chapter 12), and clean the lenses of all exterior lights

mm Check the coolant level, and top-up if necessary (Sec-

tion 3)

mm Check the battery electrolyte level, where applicable

(Section 3)

mm Check the power steering fluid level, and top-up if

necessary (Section 5)

mm Check all reservoirs, hoses and pipes for leakage

(Section 12)

mm Check the operation of the air conditioning system

(Section 14)

mm Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 26 and

Section 33 for adjustment)

mm Check the aim of the windscreen/tailgate/headlight

washer jets, correcting them if required (Section 6)

mm Check the condition of the wiper blades, renewing them

if worn or no longer effective - note that the manufacturer recommends renewing the blades as a safety precaution, irrespective of their apparent condition, at least once a year (Section 6)

mm Check the automatic transmission fluid level with the

engine still hot (Section 7)

Every 20 000 miles

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mm Renew the spark plugs - HCS and CVH engines only

(Section 27)

Standard service - every 10 000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first

mm Check the electrical system (Section 8) mm Check the battery (Section 9) mm Check the seat belts (Section 10) mm Check the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 11) mm Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose

condition (Section 12)

mm Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring

(Section 13)

mm Check the condition of all air conditioning system

components (Section 14)

mm Check the valve clearance adjustment - HCS engines

only (Section 15)

mm Change the engine oil and filter (Section 16) mm Check the engine idle speed and mixture - HCS and

CVH engines only, where possible (Section 17)

mm Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 18) mm Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Sec-

tion 19)

mm Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints

(Section 20)

mm Check the exhaust system (Section 21) mm Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Sec-

tion 22)

mm Check the brake system (Section 23) mm Check the doors and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges

and locks (Section 24)

mm Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 25) mm Road test (Section 26).

Note: If the vehicle is used regularly for very short (less than 10 miles), stop/go journeys, the oil and filter should be renewed between services (ie, every 5000 miles/6 months). Seek the advice of a Ford dealer if in doubt on this point.

Maintenance & Servicing 1•5

Extended service - every 30 000 miles or 3 years, whichever occurs first

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mm Renew the coolant (Section 28) mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (Section 29). Note

that this task must be carried out at more frequent intervals if the vehicle is used in dusty or polluted conditions

mm Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system,

and clean the filter (Section 30)

mm Renew the spark plugs - Zetec engines only (Section 27) mm Check the oil filler cap - HCS engines only (Section 31) mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 32) mm Check the handbrake adjustment (Section 33)

Every 60 000 miles

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mm Renew the timing belt (Section 34) mm Renew the fuel filter (Section 35)

Every 3 years (regardless of mileage)

mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 36)

Engine compartment component locations - 1.3 litre HCS carburettor engine

1 Oil level dipstick location 2 Anti-theft alarm horn 3 Windscreen wiper motor 4 Air cleaner 5 Engine oil filler cap

6 Brake master cylinder reservoir 7 Battery 8 Ignition module 9 Washer fluid reservoir

10 Transmission

11 Clutch operating lever and

cable 12 Cooling fan 13 Starter motor 14 Exhaust heat shield/air

deflector

15 Vehicle identification plate

(VIN) 16 Alternator 17 Coolant expansion tank 18 Suspension upper mounting

1•6 Maintenance & Servicing

Engine compartment component locations

- 1.6 litre CVH carburettor engine

1 Oil level dipstick location 2 Anti-theft alarm horn 3 Windscreen wiper motor 4 Air cleaner 5 Engine oil filler cap 6 Brake master cylinder reservoir 7 Battery 8 DIS Ignition coil

9 Ignition module 10 Washer fluid reservoir 11 Transmission 12 Clutch cable 13 Cooling fan 14 Starter motor 15 Exhaust heat shield/air deflector 16 Vehicle identification plate (VIN) 17 Intake air temperature control valve 18 Coolant expansion tank 19 Suspension upper mounting

Engine compartment component locations

- 1.6 litre CVH EFi fuel injected engine

1 Oil level dipstick location 2 Anti-theft alarm horn 3 Windscreen wiper motor 4 Throttle housing 5 Intake air temperature sensor 6 Fuel pressure regulator 7 EDIS Ignition coil 8 Brake master cylinder reservoir

9 Battery 10 Ignition module 11 Air cleaner housing 12 Washer fluid reservoir 13 Engine oil filler cap 14 Cooling fan 15 Vehicle identification plate (VIN) 16 Starter motor 17 Auxiliary drivebelt 18 Coolant expansion tank 19 Suspension upper mounting 20 MAP sensor

Maintenance & Servicing 1•7

Engine compartment component locations

- 1.6 litre Zetec SEFi fuel injected engine

1 Throttle housing 2 Inlet manifold 3 EDIS ignition coil 4 Brake master cylinder reservoir 5 Air cleaner housing 6 Air mass meter 7 Vehicle identification plate (VIN) 8 Engine oil filler cap

9 Oil level dipstick location 10 Power steering fluid reservoir 11 Coolant expansion tank 12 Suspension upper mounting

Underside view at front end showing

component locations on the 1.3 litre HCS

carburettor engine model

1 Engine oil filter 2 Engine oil drain plug 3 Horn 4 Alternator 5 Exhaust downpipe 6 Cooling fan 7 Transmission 8 Brake caliper

9 Lower suspension arm 10 Track rod end balljoint 11 Driveshaft 12 Gearshift rod 13 Stabiliser rod (transmission)

1•8 Maintenance & Servicing

Underside view at front end showing

component locations on the 1.6 litre CVH

EFi engine model

1 Driveshaft 2 Engine oil drain plug 3 Horn 4 Alternator 5 Exhaust downpipe 6 Oxygen sensor 7 Transmission 8 Brake caliper

9 Lower suspension arm 10 Track rod 11 Gearshift rod 12 Heatshield 13 Stabiliser rod (transmission) 14 Catalytic converter

Underside view at front end showing

component locations on the 1.6 litre Zetec

SEFi engine model

1 Driveshaft 2 Horn 3 Alternator 4 Exhaust downpipe 5 Transmission 6 Brake caliper 7 Lower suspension arm 8 Track rod

9 Gearshift rod 10 Stabiliser rod (transmission) 11 Catalytic converter 12 Engine oil drain plug

Maintenance & Servicing 1•9

Underside view at rear end showing

component locations on a 1.3 litre

Hatchback model

1 Fuel filler pipe 2 Handbrake cable adjuster 3 Fuel tank 4 Suspension mounting 5 Rear axle beam 6 Exhaust rear silencer 7 Exhaust system support/insulator

Underside view at rear end showing

component locations on a 1.6 litre Estate

model

1 Fuel filler pipe 2 Shock absorber 3 Handbrake cable 4 Fuel tank 5 Suspension mounting 6 Rear axle beam 7 Rear coil spring 8 Exhaust system rear silencer

3 Fluid level checks

General

1 Fluids are an essential part of the lubrication, cooling, braking and other systems. Because these fluids gradually become depleted and/or contaminated during normal operation of the vehicle, they must be periodically replenished. See “Lubricants and fluids and capacities” at the beginning of this Chapter before adding fluid to any of the following components. Note: The vehicle

must be on level ground before fluid levels are checked, to ensure accuracy.

Engine oil

2 The engine oil level is checked with a dipstick located at the front of the engine; it can be identified by its yellow/black plastic grip (see illustration). The dipstick extends through a metal tube, from which it protrudes down into the sump at the bottom of the engine.

3 The oil level should be checked before the vehicle is driven, or about 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

4 Pull the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the oil from the end with a clean rag or paper towel; note the dipstick’s maximum and minimum levels, indicated by notches (see illustration). Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into its metal tube, and pull it out again. Observe the oil on the end of the dipstick; its level should be between these two notches.

5 Do not allow the level to drop below the

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain the Ford Escort and Orion models for peak performance, economy, safety and long life.

On the following pages is a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each item on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the location of various components.

Servicing your Escort or Orion in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following

Sections will provide it with a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.

As you service your car, you will discover

that many of the procedures can - and should

- be grouped together, because of the nature of the particular procedure you’re performing, or because of the close proximity to one another of two otherwise-unrelated components.

For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel systems while you’re under the vehicle. When you’re checking the tyres, it makes good sense to check the brakes and wheel bearings, especially if the roadwheels have already been removed.

Finally, let’s suppose you have to borrow or hire a torque wrench. Even if you only need to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the torque of as many critical fasteners as time allows.

2 Routine maintenance

The first step of this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections which are relevant to the procedures you’re planning to carry out, then make a list of, and gather together, all the parts and tools you will need to do the job. If it looks as if you might run into problems during a particular segment of some procedure, seek advice from your local parts man or dealer service department.

1•10 Weekly Checks

3.6C Topping-up the engine oil level (Zetec engine)

3.6B Topping-up the engine oil level (CVH engine)

3.6A Topping-up the engine oil level (HCS engine)

3.4 Engine oil dipstick MAXimum and MINimum level markings

3.2 Engine oil dipstick location (arrowed) on Zetec engines

Weekly checks

If the level is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the engine upper components, producing an inaccurate dipstick reading.

minimum level notch, or oil starvation may cause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling the engine (adding oil above the maximum level notch) may cause oil-fouled spark plugs, oil leaks or oil seal failures. 6 The oil filler cap is screwed into the lefthand front end of the cylinder head/rocker cover; unscrew it to add oil (see illustrations). When topping-up, use only the correct grade and type of oil, as given in “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the start of this Chapter; use a funnel if necessary to prevent spills. It takes approximately 0.5 to

1.0 litre of oil to raise the level from the dipstick’s minimum level notch to its maximum level notch. After adding the oil, refit the filler cap hand-tight. Start the engine, and allow it to idle while the oil is redistributed around the engine - while you are waiting, look carefully for any oil leaks, particularly around the oil filter or drain plug. Stop the engine; check the oil level again, after the oil has had enough time to drain from the upper block and cylinder head galleries. 7 Checking the oil level is an important preventive maintenance step. A continuallydropping oil level indicates oil leakage through damaged seals and from loose connections, or oil consumption past worn piston rings or valve guides. If the oil looks milky in colour, or has water droplets in it, the cylinder head gasket may be blown - the engine’s compression pressure should be checked immediately (see Chapter 2). The condition of the oil should also be checked. Each time you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be changed (Section 16).

Coolant

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the

vehicle. Flush contaminated areas immediately with plenty of water. Don’t store new coolant, or leave old coolant lying around, where it’s accessible to children or pets - they’re attracted by its sweet smell. Ingestion of even a small amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up garage-floor and drip-pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered, and repair cooling system leaks as soon as they’re noticed.

8 All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with a sealed, pressurised cooling system. A translucent plastic expansion tank, located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, is connected by a hose to the thermostat housing. As the coolant heats up during engine operation, surplus coolant passes through the connecting hose into the expansion tank; a connection to the radiator bottom hose union allows coolant to circulate through the tank and back to the water pump, thus purging any air from the system. As the

engine cools, the coolant is automatically drawn back into the cooling system’s main components, to maintain the correct level. 9 While the coolant level must be checked regularly, remember therefore that it will vary with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the “MAX” and “MIN” level lines on the tank, but once the engine has warmed up, the level may rise to above the “MAX” level line. 10 For an accurate check of the coolant level, the engine must be cold. The level must be between the “MAX” and “MIN” level lines on the tank (see illustration). If it is below the “MIN” level line, the coolant must be toppedup as follows. 11 First prepare a sufficient quantity of coolant mixture, using clean, soft water and antifreeze of the recommended type, in the specified mixture ratio. If you are using antifreeze to Ford’s specification or equivalent (see “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” in Section

28), mix equal quantities of water and antifreeze to produce the 50/50 mixture ratio specified when topping-up; if using any other type of antifreeze, follow its manufacturer’s instructions to achieve the correct ratio. If only a small amount of coolant is required to bring the system up to the proper level, plain water can be used, but repeatedly doing this will dilute the antifreeze/water solution in the system, reducing the protection it should provide against freezing and corrosion. To maintain the specified antifreeze/water ratio, it is essential to top-up the coolant level with the correct mixture, as described here. Use only ethylene/glycol type antifreeze, and do not use supplementary inhibitors or additives.

Warning: Never remove the expansion tank filler cap when the engine is running, or has just

been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.

12 If topping-up is necessary, wait until the system has cooled completely (or at least 10 minutes after switching off the engine, if lack of time means it is absolutely necessary to top-up while the engine may still be warm). Wrap a thick cloth around the expansion tank

filler cap, and unscrew it one full turn. If any hissing is heard as steam escapes, wait until the hissing ceases, indicating that pressure is released, then slowly unscrew the filler cap until it can be removed. If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the filler cap completely. At all times, keep your face, hands and other exposed skin well away from the filler opening. 13 When the filler cap has been removed, add coolant to bring the level up to the “MAX” level line (see illustration). Refit the cap, tightening it securely. 14 With this type of cooling system, the addition of coolant should only be necessary at very infrequent intervals. If topping-up is regularly required, or if the coolant level drops within a short time after replenishment, there may be a leak in the system. Inspect the radiator, hoses, expansion tank filler cap, radiator drain plug and water pump. If no leak is evident, have the filler cap and the entire system pressure-tested by your dealer or suitably-equipped garage; this will usually show up a small leak not otherwise visible. If significant leakage is found at any time, use an antifreeze hydrometer to check the concentration of antifreeze remaining in the coolant. 15 Coolant hydrometers are available at most automotive accessory shops. If the specific gravity of a sample taken from the expansion tank (when the engine is switched off and fully cooled down) is less than that specified, the coolant mixture strength has fallen below the minimum. If this is found, either the coolant strength must be restored by adding neat antifreeze to Ford’s specification (if that is what is in the system) or by draining and flushing the system, then refilling it with fresh coolant mixture of the correct ratio (if any other type of antifreeze is being used). 16 When checking the coolant level, always note its condition; it should be relatively clear. If it is brown or rust-coloured, the system should be drained, flushed and refilled. If antifreeze has been used which does not meet Ford’s specification, its corrosion inhibitors will lose their effectiveness with time; such coolant must be renewed regularly,

Weekly Checks 1•11

3.13 Topping-up the coolant level with specified antifreeze mixture

3.10 Coolant reservoir MAXimum and MINimum level marks

even if it appears to be in good condition, usually at the intervals suggested in “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” in Section 28.

Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluid

17 Fluid for the windscreen/tailgate washer system (and, where applicable, the headlight washer system) is stored in a plastic reservoir, which is located at the left-hand front corner of the engine compartment. In milder climates, plain water can be used to top-up the reservoir, but the reservoir should be kept no more than two-thirds full, to allow for expansion should the water freeze. In colder climates, the use of a specially-formulated windscreen washer fluid, available at your dealer or any car accessory shop, will help lower the freezing point of the fluid (see illustration). Do not use regular (cooling system) antifreeze - it will damage the vehicle’s paintwork.

Battery electrolyte

18 On models not equipped with a sealed battery (see Section 9), check the electrolyte level of all six battery cells. The level must be approximately 10 mm above the plates; this may be shown by maximum and minimum level lines marked on the battery’s casing. If the level is low, use a coin to release the filler/vent cap, and add distilled water. Install and securely retighten the cap.

Caution: Overfilling the cells may cause electrolyte to spill over during periods of heavy charging,

causing corrosion or damage. Refer also to the warning at the beginning of Section 9.

Brake fluid

19 The brake fluid reservoir is located on the top of the brake master cylinder, which is attached to the front of the vacuum servo unit. The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the side of the translucent reservoir, and the fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times (see illustration). 20 The brake fluid inside the reservoir is readily visible. With the vehicle on level

ground, the level should normally be on or just below the “MAX” mark. 21 Progressive wear of the brake pads and brake shoe linings causes the level of the brake fluid to gradually fall; however, when the brake pads are renewed, the original level of the fluid is restored. It is not therefore necessary to top-up the level to compensate for this minimal drop, but the level must never be allowed to fall below the minimum mark. 22 If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir, to avoid spilling it on surrounding painted surfaces (see illustration). Be sure to use only the specified hydraulic fluid (see “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the start of this Chapter) since mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system.

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme

caution when handling and pouring it. Wash off spills immediately with plenty of water. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause corrosion and a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

23 When adding fluid, it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for contamination. The system should be drained and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or contamination are seen in the fluid.

24 After filling the reservoir to the correct level, make sure that the cap is refitted securely, to avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter. 25 If the reservoir requires repeated replenishing to maintain the correct level, this is an indication of an hydraulic leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

Power steering fluid

26 See Section 5 of this Chapter.

4 Tyre and tyre pressure

checks

1 Periodic inspection of the tyres may spare you from the inconvenience of being stranded with a flat tyre. It can also provide you with vital information regarding possible problems in the steering and suspension systems before major damage occurs. 2 The original tyres on this vehicle are equipped with tread wear indicator (TWI) bands, which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. Most tyres have a mark around the tyre at regular intervals to indicate the location of the tread wear indicators, the mark being TWI, an arrow, or the tyre manufacturer’s symbol (see illustration).

1•12 Weekly Checks

4.2 The TWI marks on the side of the tyre shows the position of the tread wear

indicator bands

3.22 Topping-up the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir

3.19 Brake master cylinder showing “MAX” and “MIN” marks

3.17 Checking the level of fluid in the washer reservoir

Tread wear can be monitored with a simple inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

3 Ensure that tyre pressures are checked regularly and maintained correctly (see the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter for pressures). Checking should be carried out with the tyres cold, and not immediately after the vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are checked with the tyres hot, an apparentlyhigh reading will be obtained, owing to heat expansion. Under no circumstances should an attempt be made to reduce the pressures to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or effective under-inflation will result. Most garage forecourts have a pressure line which combines a gauge to check and adjust the tyre pressures, but they may vary in accuracy, due to general misuse and abuse. It therefore pays to carry a good-quality tyre pressure gauge in the vehicle, to make the regular checks required and ensure pressure accuracy (see illustration).

4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such

as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on one side than the other, are indications of front wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If any of these conditions are noted, they should be rectified as soon as possible. 5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a consequent loss of adhesion and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. 6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced adhesion, harder ride, and the danger of damage occurring in the tyre casing. 7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread, before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail, so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any doubt as to the possible consequences of any damage found, consult your local tyre dealer for advice. 8 General tyre wear is influenced to a large degree by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres may result in more even wear; however, it is worth bearing in mind that if this is completely

effective, the likelihood is that all four tyres would need replacing at once, which may prove too expensive for many owners. 9 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. The front wheels should always be correctly aligned according to the settings specified by the vehicle manufacturer. 10 Don’t forget to check the spare tyre for condition and pressure. 11 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this information is contained in the Motor Vehicle Construction and Use Regulations. It is suggested that a copy of these regulations is obtained from your local police, if in doubt as to current legal requirements with regard to tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth, etc.

5 Power steering fluid level

check

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, next to the cooling system expansion tank. 2 For the fluid level check, the power steering system should be at its normal operating temperature, so it is best to carry out the check after a run. 3 Park the vehicle on level ground, with the front wheels pointing straight ahead, and switch off the engine.

Weekly Checks 1•13

4.3 Check the tyre pressures regularly using an accurate gauge

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s

tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

4 Check that the fluid level is up to the “MAX” mark on the reservoir. 5 If topping-up is required, first use a clean rag to wipe the filler cap and the surrounding area, to prevent foreign matter from entering the system. Unscrew and remove the filler cap. 6 Top-up the level to the “MAX” mark, using the grade of fluid specified at the beginning of this Chapter (see illustration). Be careful not to introduce dirt into the system, and do not overfill. The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated.

7 Refit the filler cap.

6 Windscreen/tailgate washer

system and wiper blade check

1 The windscreen wiper and blade assemblies should be inspected at the specified intervals for damage, loose components, and cracked or worn blade elements. 2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades and affect their efficiency, so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. 3 The action of the wiping mechanism can loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they should be checked and tightened, as necessary, at the same time as the wiper blades are checked. 4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked, worn or warped, or no longer clean adequately, they should be replaced with new ones.

5 Lift the wiper arm and blade away from the glass. 6 To remove the windscreen wiper blade, release the catch on the arm, then turn the blade through 90º and withdraw the blade from the end of the arm (see illustration). 7 To remove the tailgate wiper blade, push the wiper blade forward, and at the same time depress it against the spring pressure, then withdraw it from the end of the arm. 8 If the metal part of the wiper blade is in good condition, it may be possible to renew the rubber insert separately. Inserts can sometimes be obtained from car accessory shops and, according to type, may need to be cut to the correct length before sliding into the clips. 9 Refit the wiper blade assembly using a reversal of the removal procedure, making sure that it fully engages with the spring clip. 10 Check that the washer jets direct the fluid onto the upper part of the windscreen/ tailgate/rear window/headlight, and if necessary adjust the small sphere on the jet with a pin (see illustration).

7 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1 The level of the automatic transmission fluid should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and transmission damage. 2 The transmission fluid level should only be checked when the transmission is hot (at its normal operating temperature). If the vehicle has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 160 to 175ºF, the transmission is hot.

Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven for a long time at high speed or in city traffic in hot

weather, or if it has been pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading cannot be obtained. In these circumstances, allow the fluid to cool down for about 30 minutes.

3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the handbrake, and start the engine. While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever through all the gear positions three times, beginning and ending in “P”. 4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then (with the engine still idling) remove the dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick. 5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the cap seats. 6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the fluid level. The level should be between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add the specified automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if necessary. It is important not to introduce dirt into the transmission when topping-up. 7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep checking the level as previously described until it is correct. 8 The need for regular topping-up of the transmission fluid indicates a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay. 9 The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level. If the fluid on the dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid should be changed. If you are in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.

1•14 Weekly Checks

6.10 Adjust the washer jets with a pin in the direction required

6.6 Windscreen wiper blade removal from the arm

5.6 Topping-up the power steering fluid reservoir

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

8 Electrical system check

1 Check the operation of all external lights and indicators (front and rear). 2 Check for satisfactory operation of the

instrument panel, its illumination and warning lights, the switches and their function lights.

3 Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation. 4 Check all other electrical equipment for

satisfactory operation. 5 Check all electrical wiring in the engine compartment for correct routing, and for any signs of physical or heat-damage or chafing.

9 Battery check, maintenance

and charging

Warning: Certain precautions must be followed when checking and servicing the battery.

Hydrogen gas, which is highly flammable, is always present in the battery cells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other open flames and sparks away from the battery. The electrolyte inside the battery is actually dilute sulphuric acid, which will cause injury if splashed on your skin or in your eyes. It will also ruin clothes and painted surfaces. When disconnecting the battery, always detach the negative (earth) lead first and connect it last!

Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer to Section 1 of Chapter 5.

General

1 A routine preventive maintenance programme for the battery in your vehicle is the only way to ensure quick and reliable starts. Before performing any battery maintenance, make sure that you have the proper equipment necessary to work safely around the battery. This includes safety goggles and rubber gloves to protect your eyes and hands from the caustic battery deposits, a solution of baking soda to dissolve these deposits, and petroleum jelly, which, applied to the cleaned battery terminals, will help prevent further corrosion occurring. 2 There are also several precautions that should be taken whenever battery maintenance is performed. Before servicing the battery, always turn the engine and all accessories off, and disconnect the lead from the negative terminal of the battery - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 3 The battery produces hydrogen gas, which is both flammable and explosive. Never create a spark, smoke, or light a match around the battery. Always charge the battery in a wellventilated area. 4 The battery electrolyte fluid contains sulphuric acid, which is poisonous and corrosive. Do not allow it to get in your eyes, on your skin, or on your clothes. Never ingest it. Wear protective safety goggles when working near the battery. Keep children away from the battery. 5 Note the external condition of the battery. If the positive terminal and lead clamp on your vehicle’s battery is equipped with a plastic cover or rubber protector, make sure that it’s not torn or damaged. It should completely cover the terminal. Look for any corroded or loose connections, cracks in the case or cover, or loose hold-down clamps. Also check the entire length of each lead for cracks and frayed conductors. 6 If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy deposits is evident, particularly around the terminals, the battery should be removed for cleaning. Slacken the lead clamp nuts with a spanner, being careful to remove the negative (earth) lead first, and slide them off the terminals. Then unscrew the hold-down clamp nuts, remove the clamp, and lift the battery from the engine compartment. 7 Clean the lead clamps thoroughly, using a soft wire brush or a terminal cleaner, with a

solution of warm water and baking soda. Wash the terminals and the top of the battery case with the same solution, but make sure that the solution doesn’t get into the battery. When cleaning the leads, terminals and battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber gloves, to prevent any solution from coming in contact with your eyes or hands. Wear old clothes too

- even when diluted, sulphuric acid splashed onto clothes will burn holes in them. If the terminals have been extensively corroded, clean them up with a suitable tool. Thoroughly wash all cleaned areas with plain water. 8 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the hold-down clamp nuts are tight. If the battery is removed from the tray, make sure that no parts remain in the bottom of the tray when the battery is refitted. When refitting the hold-down clamp nuts, do not overtighten them. 9 Information on removing and installing the battery can be found in Chapter 5. Information on jump starting can be found at the front of this manual. For more detailed battery checking procedures, refer to the Haynes “Automobile Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual”.

Cleaning

10 Corrosion on the hold-down components, battery case and surrounding areas can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with plain water. 11 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted.

Charging

Warning: When batteries are being charged, hydrogen gas, which is

very explosive and flammable, is produced. Do not smoke, or allow open flames, near a charging or a recentlycharged battery. Wear eye protection when near the battery during charging. Also, make sure that the charger is unplugged before connecting or disconnecting the battery from the charger.

12 Slow-rate charging is the best way to restore a battery that’s discharged to the point where it will not start the engine. It’s also a good way to maintain the battery charge in a vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between starts. Maintaining the battery charge is particularly important in Winter, when the battery must work harder to start the engine, and electrical accessories that drain the battery are in greater use. 13 It’s best to use a one- or two-amp battery charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger). They are the safest, and put the least strain on the battery. They are also the least expensive. For a faster charge, you can use a higheramperage charger, but don’t use one rated more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the battery (ie no more than 5 amps, typically). Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the power of the battery in one to two hours are hardest on the battery, and can damage batteries not in good

condition. This type of charging should only be used in emergency situations. 14 The average time necessary to charge a battery should be listed in the instructions that come with the charger. As a general rule, a trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to 16 hours.

10 Seat belt check

1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory operation and condition. Inspect the webbing for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract smoothly and without binding into their reels. 2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are tight, and if necessary tighten them to the specified torque wrench setting.

11 Auxiliary drivebelt check and

renewal

General

1 The auxiliary drivebelt type depends on the engine fitted, and on whether the vehicle is equipped with power-assisted steering or air conditioning. The belt will be either a V-belt or a flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”) type. The drivebelt is located on the right-hand end of the engine, and drives the alternator, water pump (and, when fitted, the power steering pump and the air conditioning compressor) from the engine’s crankshaft pulley. 2 The good condition and proper tension of the auxiliary drivebelt is critical to the operation of the engine. Because of their composition and the high stresses to which they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and deteriorate as they get older. They must, therefore, be regularly inspected.

Check

3 With the engine switched off, open and support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary drivebelt on the right-hand end of the engine

(Be very careful, and wear protective gloves to minimise the risk of burning your hands on hot components, if the engine has recently been running). For improved access, jack up the

Every 10 000 miles 1•15

11.3 Removing the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover (arrowed) from inside the

wheel arch

front right-hand side of the vehicle, support it securely on an axle stand, remove the roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch (see

illustration). 4 Using an inspection light or a small electric

torch, and rotating the engine when necessary with a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, check the whole length of the drivebelt for cracks, separation of the rubber, and torn or worn ribs (see illustration). Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt should be inspected, which means you will have to twist the drivebelt to check the underside. Use your fingers to feel the drivebelt where you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to the condition of the drivebelt, renew it (go to paragraph 19). Turning the engine will be much easier if the spark plugs are removed first (Section 27).

Drivebelt tension

5 It’s only necessary to adjust the tension if the drivebelt is of the V-belt type. The flat, “polyvee” type drivebelts are fitted with an automatic tensioner to maintain the correct belt adjustment. 6 On the V-belt type, Ford technicians use a special tension gauge for checking drivebelt adjustment, but for DIY purposes, checking the belt tension using firm finger pressure gives a good indication of correct adjustment. This is done midway between the pulleys, on the longest run of the belt. 7 If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows according to belt type.

V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster

8 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-

hand side of the vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch. 9 Apply firm finger pressure midway between

the pulleys on the longest run of the belt, and look for a deflection of 2.0 mm (i.e. a total drivebelt “swing” of 4.0 mm). If adjustment is required, loosen off the alternator mounting and drivebelt adjustment bolts, pivot the alternator as required to provide the correct drivebelt tension, then retighten the bolts to secure (see illustrations). 10 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 11 Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

V-belt with rack-and-pinion type adjuster

12 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-

hand side of the vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch. 13 Check the adjustment as described in paragraph 9. If adjustment is required, loosen off the alternator mounting bolts and the adjusting arm mounting bolt. Slacken the pinion central locking bolt, and turn the pinion nut as required to take up the tension of the drivebelt (see illustration). Hold it at the required setting, and tighten the central bolt securely to lock the adjuster arm and set the tension.

14 Tighten the alternator mounting and adjusting arm bolts securely. 15 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 16 Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt

17 As mentioned above, this type of drivebelt

is tensioned by an automatic tensioner; regular checks are not required, and manual “adjustment” is not possible. 18 If you suspect that the drivebelt is slipping and/or running slack, or that the tensioner is otherwise faulty, it must be renewed. To do this, remove the drivebelt as described below, then unbolt and remove the tensioner. On fitting the new tensioner, ensure that it is aligned correctly on its mountings, and tightened to the specified torque wrench setting.

Renewal

19 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front righthand side of the vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch. 20 The routing of the drivebelt around the pulleys is dependent on the drivebelt type, and on whether power steering and/or air conditioning is fitted. Before removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea to sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this will save a lot of frustration when it comes to refitting. 21 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted, mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its flat surface, so that it can be installed the same way round. 22 To renew the V-belt type of drivebelt, slacken the belt tension fully as described above, according to type. Slip the belt off the pulleys, then fit the new belt, ensuring that it is routed correctly. With the belt in position, adjust the tension as previously described. 23 To renew the flat, “polyvee” type

1•16 Every 10 000 miles

11.13 Rack-and-pinion type auxiliary drivebelt adjuster

A Adjuster arm B Pinion (adjuster) nut C Central (locking) bolt

11.9B Alternator upper mounting/sliding arm adjuster bolt (arrowed) - V-belt with

sliding arm type adjuster

11.9A Checking drivebelt adjustment V-belt types

Note that the 4 mm dimension is the total belt

swing and is equal to 2 mm of deflection

11.4 Check the auxiliary drivebelt for signs of wear like these. Very small cracks

across the drivebelt ribs are acceptable. If

the cracks are deep, or if the drivebelt

looks worn or damaged in any other way,

renew it. This is the “polyvee” type belt,

but the checks on the V-belt type are the

same

drivebelt, reach up between the body and the engine (above the crankshaft pulley), and apply a spanner to the hexagon in the centre of the automatic tensioner’s pulley. Rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise to release its pressure on the drivebelt, then slip the drivebelt off the crankshaft pulley, and release the tensioner again (see illustration). Note that on certain models, a selfcocking tensioner is fitted, and that this will remain in the released position. Working from the wheel arch or engine compartment as necessary, and noting its routing, slip the

drivebelt off the remaining pulleys and withdraw it. 24 Check all the pulleys, ensuring that their grooves are clean, and removing all traces of oil and grease. Check that the tensioner works properly, with strong spring pressure being felt when its pulley is rotated clockwise, and a smooth return to the limit of its travel when released. 25 If the original drivebelt is being refitted, use the marks or notes made on removal, to ensure that it is installed to run in the same direction as it was previously. To fit the drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so that it is centred in their grooves, and not overlapping their raised sides, and is routed correctly (see illustrations). Start at the top, and work down to finish at the crankshaft pulley; rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise, slip the drivebelt onto the crankshaft pulley, then release the tensioner again. 26 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at least two full turns clockwise to settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the drivebelt is properly installed. 27 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

12 Underbonnet check for fluid

leaks and hose condition

Caution: Renewal of air conditioning hoses must be left to a dealer service department or

air conditioning specialist who has the equipment to depressurise the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurised.

General

1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emissions systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smallerdiameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed (see illustration). If you are using

Every 10 000 miles 1•17

11.25 When installing the auxiliary drivebelt, make sure that it is centred - it must not overlap either edge of the grooved pulleys

12.2 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of failing at the worst

possible time - to prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator

or heater hose, inspect them carefully as shown here

11.23 Automatic drivebelt tensioner “polyvee” type drivebelt

Turn tensioner clockwise to release tension

non-Ford specification antifreeze, and so have to renew the coolant every two years or so, it’s a good idea to renew the hoses at that time, regardless of their apparent condition. 3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring clamps that are used to secure the hoses in this system appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks. 4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven’t lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak. 5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore the puddle of water which will be left if the air conditioning system is in use. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that (when the engine is run again) the exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the vacuum-hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into

contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: There are certain precautions which must be taken when inspecting or servicing fuel

system components. Work in a well-ventilated area, and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately, and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.

10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter. 11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all spring-type clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line. 14 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration. 15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system.

13 Engine compartment wiring

check

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and open the bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, check all visible wiring within and beneath the engine compartment. 2 What you are looking for is wiring that is obviously damaged by chafing against sharp edges, or against moving suspension/ transmission components and/or the auxiliary drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed between carelessly-refitted components, or melted by being forced into contact with the hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In almost all cases, damage of this sort is caused in the first instance by incorrect routing on reassembly, after previous work has been carried out.

3 Depending on the extent of the problem, damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining the break or splicing-in a new length of wire, using solder to ensure a good connection, and remaking the insulation with adhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given the implications for the vehicle’s future reliability, the best long-term answer may well be to renew that entire section of the loom, however expensive this may appear. 4 When the actual damage has been repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is rerouted correctly, so that it is clear of other components, and not stretched or kinked, and is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic clips, guides and ties provided. 5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring that they are clean, securely fastened, and that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows external signs of corrosion (accumulations of white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”), or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be unplugged and cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. If the connector pins are severely corroded, the connector must be renewed; note that this may mean the renewal of that entire section of the loom - see your local Ford dealer for details. 6 If the cleaner completely removes the corrosion to leave the connector in a satisfactory condition, it would be wise to pack the connector with a suitable material which will exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the corrosion from occurring again; a Ford dealer may be able to recommend a suitable product. 7 Check the condition of the battery connections - remake the connections or renew the leads if a fault is found (see Chapter 5). Use the same techniques to ensure that all earth points in the engine compartment provide good electrical contact through clean, metal-to-metal joints, and that all are securely fastened. (In addition to the earth connection at the engine lifting eye, and that from the transmission to the body/battery, there are others in various places, so check carefully). 8 Refer to Section 27 for details of spark plug (HT) lead checks.

14 Air conditioning system

check

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not loosen any fittings or

remove any components until after the system has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant must be properly discharged into an approved type of container, at a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility capable of handling the refrigerant safely. Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.

1•18 Every 10 000 miles

1 The following maintenance checks should be performed on a regular basis, to ensure that the air conditioner continues to operate at peak efficiency:

a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn

or deteriorated, renew it (see Section 11).

b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,

bubbles, hard spots and deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil bubbles and seepage. If there’s any evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew the hose(s).

c) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,

insects and other debris. Use a “fin comb” or compressed air to clean the condenser.

d) Check that the drain tube from the front

of the evaporator is clear - note that it is normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping from this while the system is in operation, to the extent that quite a large puddle can be left under the vehicle when it is parked.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system for about 30 minutes at least once a month, particularly during the Winter. Long term non-use can cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of the seals. 3 Because of the complexity of the air conditioning system and the special equipment necessary to service it, in-depth fault diagnosis and repairs are not included in this manual. For more complete information on the air conditioning system, refer to the Haynes “Automotive Heating and Air Conditioning Manual”. 4 The most common cause of poor cooling is simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a noticeable drop in cool-air output occurs, the following quick check will help you determine if the refrigerant level is low. 5 Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature. 6 Place the air conditioning temperature selector at the coldest setting, and put the blower at the highest setting. Open the doors

- to make sure the air conditioning system doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the passenger compartment.

7 With the compressor engaged - the clutch will make an audible click, and the centre of the clutch will rotate - feel the inlet and outlet pipes at the compressor. One side should be cold, and one hot. If there’s no perceptible difference between the two pipes, there’s something wrong with the compressor or the system. It might be a low charge - it might be something else. Take the vehicle to a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning specialist.

15 Valve clearance adjustment

Refer to Chapter 2, Part A.

16 Engine oil and filter change

1 Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home mechanic can give the engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure (see illustration). You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. 3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands.

Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by an hydraulic or scissors-type jack, or by bricks, blocks of wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarise yourself with the position of the engine oil drain plug location in the sump. The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential

problems while the engine and accessories are cool. 5 The oil should preferably be changed when the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, just after a run (the needle on the temperature gauge should be in the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position (automatic transmission). Open the bonnet and remove the engine oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level dipstick from its tube (see Section 3). 6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the front right-hand roadwheel to provide access to the oil filter; if the additional working clearance is required, remove also the auxiliary drivebelt cover.

Warning: To avoid personal

injury, never get beneath the

vehicle when it is supported by

only by a jack. The jack provided

with your vehicle is designed solely for raising the vehicle to remove and refit the roadwheels. Always use axle stands to support the vehicle when it becomes necessary to place your body underneath the vehicle.

7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the drain pan under the drain plug, and unscrew the plug (see illustrations). If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve! Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan, and check the condition of the plug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn or damaged. 8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle; when the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the drain plug and its threads in the sump and refit the plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. 9 Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter

Every 10 000 miles 1•19

16.7B Removing the engine oil drain plug on the Zetec engine

16.7A Engine oil drain plug location in the sump on HCS and CVH engines

16.2 These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter

then, using a suitable filter removal tool, unscrew the oil filter from the cylinder block; be prepared for some oil spillage (see illustration). Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw the filter through the wheel arch, taking care to spill as little oil as possible. 10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the cylinder block around the filter mounting. If there are no specific instructions supplied with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s sealing ring. Screw the filter into position on the engine until it seats, then tighten it through a further half- to three-quarters of a turn only (see illustrations). Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use any tools. 11 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle, refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 12 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct grade and type of oil, as given in “Lubricants, fluids and capacities”. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time, until the level is up to the lower notch on the dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre will raise the level to the dipstick’s upper notch. 13 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning light will take a few seconds to go out while the new filter fills with oil; do not race the

engine while the light is on. Run the engine for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the drain plug. 14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the Reference Sections of this manual.

17 Idle speed and mixture

check and adjustment

General

1 Many of the engines fitted to Escort and Orion models are equipped with fuel injection systems of one sort or another which are entirely controlled by the engine management system. On most of these vehicles, it isn’t possible to make any adjustments to the idle speed or the mixture settings without specialist test equipment of a type usually only found at a Ford dealer or fuel injection specialist. However, the very nature of these highly-sophisticated systems means they don’t go out of tune very often (if ever), so that it’s one less maintenance operation to worry about. 2 On carburettor and 1.6 litre EFi fuel-injected engines, certain checks and adjustments are

necessary as part of the service requirements, and these are described below.

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment - carburettor engines

3 Before carrying out the following checks and adjustments, ensure that the spark plugs are in good condition and correctly gapped (Section 27). To carry out the checks/ adjustments, an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required. 4 Make sure that all electrical components are switched off during the following procedures. 5 Connect a tachometer to the engine in accordance with its manufacturer’s instructions, and insert the probe of an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) into the exhaust tailpipe. As previously mentioned, these items are essential in obtaining an accurate setting. If they are not available, an approximate check/adjustment can be made as a temporary measure, providing they are further checked out as soon as is possible using a tachometer and a CO meter (or by a Ford dealer). 6 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it reaches its normal operating temperature and the radiator cooling fan cuts in. Turn the engine off, then disconnect the radiator cooling fan lead at the thermostatic switch connector. Now connect a temporary wire to the fan switch multi-plug, as shown (see illustration) to enable the fan to operate

1•20 Every 10 000 miles

17.6 Cooling fan thermostatic switch

multi-plug with temporary bridging wire

connected

16.10D Engine oil filter (Zetec engine)16.10C Engine oil filter (CVH engine)

16.10B Engine oil filter (HCS engine)

16.10A Lubricate the filter’s sealing ring

with clean engine oil before installing the

filter on the engine

16.9 Removing the oil filter on the CVH engine using a strap wrench

continuously during the following checks and adjustments (if this is specified). Take care to keep clear of the fan during the following operations when working in the engine compartment. 7 Where fitted, disconnect the throttle kicker vacuum pipe, and plug the end. To identify the throttle kicker unit, refer to Chapter 4. 8 Check that the vehicle lighting and other electrical loadings (apart from the radiator cooling fan) are switched off, then restart the engine. Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, and repeat this at threeminute intervals during the check/adjustment procedures. This will ensure that any excess fuel is cleared from the inlet manifold. 9 Ensure that the throttle is fully released, allow the meters to stabilise for a period of 3 to 5 seconds, then check the idle speed against that specified. If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle speed screw until the engine is idling at the specified speed. Any checks and adjustments must be completed within 30 seconds of the meters stabilising. 10 If adjustment to the mixture is required, the tamperproof cap will need to be removed from the carburettor to gain access to the mixture screw. To do this, first unclip the fuel trap from the side of the air cleaner unit, then remove the air cleaner unit, ensuring that the crankcase ventilation trap remains connected. Prise free the tamperproof cap (with the aid of a thin-bladed screwdriver), then with the vacuum and emissions control pipes connected to it, relocate the air cleaner unit temporarily into position. 11 Turn the mixture adjustment screw clockwise to weaken the mixture, or anticlockwise to richen it, until the CO reading is as given in the Specifications (see illustration). If a CO meter is not being used, weaken the mixture as described, then enrich the mixture until the maximum engine speed is obtained, consistent with even running. 12 If necessary, re-adjust the idle speed then check the CO reading again. Repeat as necessary until both the idle speed and CO reading are correct. 13 Where required by law (as in some European countries), fit a new tamperproof cap to the mixture adjustment screw.

14 Disconnect the tachometer and the CO meter, refit the air cleaner unit, and reconnect the fan switch lead to complete.

Base idle speed and mixture check and adjustment - 1.6 litre EFi engines

15 Proceed as described above in paragraphs 4 to 6 inclusive, then continue as follows. 16 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it reaches its normal operating temperature and the cooling fan cuts in. Check the CO content of the exhaust, and compare it against the specified reading. If the CO content reading is incorrect, it can be adjusted by prising free the tamperproof cap for access to the CO adjustment screw (see illustration), and turning the screw in the required direction to suit. 17 Check the base idle speed by first disconnecting the multi-plug from the idle speed control valve. Increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm, hold it at that speed for 30 seconds, then fully release the throttle and check if the base idle speed registered is as specified. 18 If adjustment is necessary, prise free the tamperproof plug using a suitable small screwdriver to gain access to the base idle adjustment screw in the throttle body. Turn the screw in the required direction to adjust the base idle speed to the specified amount. Turning the screw anti-clockwise increases the idle speed (see illustration). 19 Repeat the procedure outlined in

paragraph 17 to recheck and further adjust the base idle speed if required, then fit a new tamperproof plug into position. 20 Reconnect the idle speed control valve multi-plug, and check that the engine speed briefly rises to about 900 rpm, then drops down to the specified normal idle speed. 21 On completion, disconnect the tachometer and the CO meter, but continue running the engine at idle speed for a period of about five minutes, to enable the engine management module to relearn its values before switching it off.

18 Manual transmission oil level

check

1 The manual transmission does not have a dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands, making sure that the vehicle is level. On the lower front side of the transmission housing, you will see the filler/level plug. Unscrew and remove it - an Allen key or bit will probably be required (see illustration). If the lubricant level is correct, the oil should be up to the lower edge of the hole. 2 If the transmission needs more lubricant (if the oil level is not up to the hole), use a syringe, or a plastic bottle and tube, to add more (see illustration). Stop filling the transmission when the lubricant begins to run out of the hole.

Every 10 000 miles 1•21

17.18 Base idle speed adjusting screw

(arrowed) in the throttle housing on the

1.6 litre EFi engine

17.16 Mixture CO adjusting screw

(arrowed) on the 1.6 litre EFi engine

17.11 Carburettor idle mixture adjustment screw (A) and idle speed screw (B)

18.2 Topping-up the oil level in the BC type transmission

18.1 Unscrewing the manual transmission oil filler/level plug

3 Refit the filler/level plug, and tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. Drive the vehicle a short distance, then check for leaks. 4 The need for regular topping-up can only be due to a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay.

19 Steering, suspension and

roadwheel check

Front suspension and steering check

1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration (see illustrations). Any wear of these components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 Check the power-assisted steering fluid hoses (where fitted) for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further

investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track rod balljoints. If the outer track rod end balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a hand over the rackand-pinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the track rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the vehicle standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension check

8 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 9 Check the rear hub bearings for wear, using the method described for the front hub bearings (paragraph 4). 10 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment

point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Check the condition of the shock absorbers and their bushes/mountings. On Van models, check the leaves of the leaf springs for signs of cracking, distortion, or other damage.

Roadwheel check and balancing

11 Periodically remove the roadwheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steel wheels may become dented or buckled. Renewal of the wheel is very often the only course of remedial action possible. 12 The balance of each wheel and tyre assembly should be maintained, not only to avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid wear in the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell, although in many cases it is particularly noticeable through the steering wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that wear or damage in suspension or steering components may cause excessive tyre wear. Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged wheels and wheel bearing wear/ maladjustment also fall into this category. Balancing will not usually cure vibration caused by such wear. 13 Wheel balancing may be carried out with the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so that it may be refitted in its original position.

20 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and

CV joint check

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very important, because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints. External contamination can cause the gaiter

1•22 Every 10 000 miles

19.4 Checking for wear in the front suspension and hub bearings

19.2C Check the condition of the steering rack gaiters

19.2B Check the condition of the lower arm balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

19.2A Check the condition of the track rod end balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and water occasionally. 2 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on axle stands, turn the steering onto full-lock, then slowly rotate each front wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress of water and grit into the joint (see illustration). Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed as described in Chapter 8. 3 At the same time, check the general condition of the outer CV joints themselves, by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheels. Any appreciable movement in the CV joint indicates wear in the joint, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut. Repeat this check on the inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke and attempting to rotate the driveshaft.

21 Exhaust system check

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system, from its starting point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is not available, raise and support the vehicle on axle stands. 2 Check the pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or damage. Make sure that all brackets and rubber mountings are in good condition, and tight; if any of the mountings are to be renewed, ensure that the replacements are of the correct type (see illustration). Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants

should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter, pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating.

3 At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion, open seams, etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty. 4 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the rubber mountings. Try to move the system, silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any components can touch the body or

suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mountings. 5 Check the running condition of the engine by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe; the exhaust deposits here are an indication of the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it is black and sooty, or coated with white deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough fuel system inspection.

22 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands or over an inspection pit, thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In particular, examine the bottom of the side sills, and any concealed areas where mud can collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident, press and tap firmly on the panel with a screwdriver, and check for any serious corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If the panel is not seriously corroded, clean away the rust, and apply a new coating of underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more details of body repairs. 2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated lower body panels for stone damage and general condition. 3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and leakage. Also make sure that they are correctly supported in their clips. Where applicable, check the PVC coating on the lines for damage.

23 Brake check

Note: For detailed photographs of the brake system, refer to Chapter 9.

1 The work described in this Section should be carried out at the specified intervals, or

whenever a defect is suspected in the braking system. Any of the following symptoms could indicate a potential brake system defect:

a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the

brake pedal is depressed.

b) The brakes make scraping or dragging

noises when applied. c) Brake pedal travel is excessive. d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-

up.

2 A thorough inspection should be made to confirm the thickness of the linings, as follows.

Disc brakes

3 Jack up the front or rear of the vehicle, as applicable, and support it on axle stands. Where rear brake pads are fitted, also jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands. 4 For better access to the brake calipers, remove the wheels. 5 Look through the inspection window in the caliper, and check that the thickness of the friction lining material on each of the pads is not less than the recommended minimum thickness given in the Specifications. Note:

Bear in mind that the lining material is normally bonded to a metal backing plate.

6 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the pads, then remove them from the calipers for further inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 7 Check the remaining brake caliper(s) in the same way. 8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down to, or below, the specified limit, all four pads at that end of the car must be renewed as a set (ie all the front pads or all the rear pads). 9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a micrometer, if available, to make sure that they still have service life remaining. If any disc is thinner than the specified minimum thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case, check the general condition of the discs. Look for excessive scoring and discolouration caused by overheating. If these

Every 10 000 miles 1•23

21.2 If any of the exhaust system rubber mountings are to be renewed, ensure that the replacements are of the correct type -

their colour is a good guide. Those nearest

to the catalytic converter are more heat-

resistant than the others

20.2 Check the driveshaft gaiters by hand for cracks and/or leaking grease

conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9). 10 Before refitting the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where they are subjected to most movement. Bend them between the fingers (but do not actually bend them double, or the casing may be damaged) and check that this does not reveal previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.

Rear drum brakes

11 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands. 12 For better access, remove the rear wheels. 13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness without removing the brake drums, prise the rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an electric torch to inspect the linings of the leading brake shoes. Check that the thickness of the lining material on the brake shoes is not less than the recommendation given in the Specifications. 14 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more comprehensive inspection (refer to Chapter 9)

(see illustration). 15 With the drum removed, check the shoe

return and hold-down springs for correct installation, and check the wheel cylinders for leakage of brake fluid. Check the friction surface of the brake drums for scoring and discoloration. If excessive, the drum should be resurfaced or renewed. 16 Before refitting the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On completion, apply the handbrake and check that the rear wheels are locked. The handbrake also requires periodic adjustment, and if its travel seems excessive, refer to Section 33.

24 Door and bonnet check and

lubrication

1 Check that the doors, bonnet and tailgate/boot lid close securely. Check that the bonnet safety catch operates correctly. Check the operation of the door check straps. 2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps, the striker plates and the bonnet catch sparingly with a little oil or grease.

25 Roadwheel nut tightness

check

1 Apply the handbrake. 2 Remove the wheel covers, using the flat

end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit

(on some models it will be necessary to unscrew the retaining bolts with a special key). 3 Check that the roadwheel nuts are tightened to the specified torque wrench setting.

4 Refit the wheel covers.

26 Road test

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 2 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 3 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine switched off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal depressed. Start the engine, and there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably firmer.

Steering and suspension

5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”. 6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 7 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

8 Check the performance of the engine, transmission and driveshafts. 9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both when cold and when hot. 10 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine and transmission. 11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 12 On manual transmission models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”. 13 On automatic transmission models, make sure that the drive seems smooth without jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that all the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a Ford dealer. 14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint if necessary.

Clutch

15 Check that the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its full travel, and that the clutch itself functions correctly, with no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable is routed correctly, with no sharp turns. 16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner cable, both at the transmission end and inside the car, for signs of wear and fraying. 17 Check the pedal self-adjusting mechanism as described in Chapter 8, if necessary.

Instruments and electrical equipment

18 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 19 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

1•24 Every 10 000 miles

23.14 If the lining is bonded to the brake shoe, measure the lining thickness from the outer surface to the metal shoe, as shown here (A); if the lining is riveted to the shoe,

measure from the lining outer surface to the rivet head

27 Spark plug renewal

Note: Spark plug renewal at this service interval is only necessary on the HCS and CVH engines. On the Zetec engine, the recommended interval for spark plug renewal is every 30 000 miles or three years.

Spark plug check and renewal

1 It is vital for the correct running, full performance and proper economy of the engine that the spark plugs perform with maximum efficiency. The most important factor in ensuring this is that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine. The suitable type is given in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter, on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label located on the underside of the bonnet (only on models sold in some areas) or in the vehicle’s Owner’s Handbook. If the correct type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled renewal intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a spark plug socket, with an extension which can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar. This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to protect the porcelain insulator of the spark plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it into the spark plug hole. You will also need a set of feeler gauges, to check the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque wrench to tighten the new plugs to the specified torque (see

illustration). 3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the

bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the

top of the engine. Note how the spark plug (HT) leads are routed and secured by clips, and on some engines, how they’re positioned along the channel in the cylinder head cover. To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work on one spark plug at a time. 4 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt/chain end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the rubber boot sealing the cylinder head cover opening, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 5 It is advisable to soak up any water in the spark plug recesses with a rag, and to remove any dirt from them using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent any dirt or water from dropping into the cylinders.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

6 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If any undue difficulty is encountered when unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully check the cylinder head threads and tapered sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive corrosion or damage; if any of these conditions is found, seek the advice of a Ford dealer as to the best method of repair. 7 As each plug is removed, examine it as follows - this will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 8 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that

the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 9 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture. 10 If you are renewing the spark plugs, purchase the new plugs, then check each of them first for faults such as cracked insulators or damaged threads. Note also that, whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a routine service operation, the spark plug (HT) leads should be checked as described below. 11 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. New plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct gap, so they should always be checked before fitting. 12 The spark plug gap is correct when the correct-size feeler gauge or wire gauge is a firm sliding fit between the electrodes (see

illustrations). 13 To adjust the electrode gap, bend open,

or close up, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustration). The centre electrode should never be bent, as this

Every 20 000 miles 1•25

27.13 To change the gap, bend the outer electrode only, and be very careful not to

crack or chip the porcelain insulator

surrounding the centre electrode

27.12B Spark plug manufacturers

recommend using a wire-type gauge when checking the gap - if the wire or feeler gauge does not slide between the electrodes with a

slight drag, adjustment is required

27.12A Measuring a spark plug gap with a feeler gauge

27.2 Tools required for changing spark plugs

Every 20 000 miles

may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently to align them. Special spark plug gap adjusting tools are available from motor accessory shops, or from certain spark plug manufacturers. 14 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean. Brown staining on the porcelain, immediately above the metal body, is quite normal, and does not necessarily indicate a “leak” between the body and insulator. 15 Apply a smear of copper-based grease or anti-seize compound to the threads of each plug, and screw them in by hand where possible. Take extra care to enter the plug threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of aluminium alloy.

16 When each spark plug is started correctly on its threads, screw it down until it just seats

lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. If a torque wrench is not available - and this is one case where the use of a torque wrench is strongly recommended tighten each spark plug through no more than 1/4 of a turn (CVH engines) or 1/16 of a turn (HCS engines) after it seats. HCS engines are fitted with taper-seat spark plugs, identifiable by not having a sealing washer, and these in particular should NEVER be overtightened their tapered seats mean they are almost impossible to remove if abused. 17 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in their correct order, using a twisting motion on the boot until it is firmly seated on the end of the spark plug and on the cylinder head cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead check

18 The spark plug (HT) leads should be checked whenever the plugs themselves are renewed. Start by making a visual check of the leads while the engine is running. In a darkened garage (make sure there is ventilation) start the engine and observe each lead. Be careful not to come into contact with any moving engine parts. If there is a break in the lead, you will see arcing or a small spark at the damaged area. 19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up the firing order, which is essential for proper engine operation. Each original lead should be numbered to identify its cylinder. If the number is illegible, a piece of tape can be marked with the correct number, and wrapped around the lead (the leads should be numbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest the timing belt end of the engine). The lead can then be disconnected. 20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly eroded to be fit for further use, the lead must be renewed. Push the lead and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers carefully to crimp the metal connector inside

the boot until the fit is snug. 21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead sharply, because the conductor might break. 22 Disconnect the lead from the ignition coil by pressing together the plastic retaining catches and pulling the end fitting off the coil terminal. Check for corrosion and for a tight fit. If a meter with the correct measuring range is available, measure the resistance of the disconnected lead from its coil connector to its spark plug connector (see illustration). If the resistance recorded for any of the leads exceeds the value specified, all the leads should be renewed as a set. Refit the lead to the coil, noting that each coil terminal is marked with its respective cylinder number, so that there is no risk of mixing up the leads and upsetting the firing order. 23 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT) leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened at the ignition coil and spark plug when the check is complete. If any sign of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in the firing order.

1•26 Every 20 000 miles

27.22 Measure the resistance of the spark plug (HT) leads - if any exceeds the

specified maximum value, renew all the

leads as a set

It’s often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint, to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage.

Every 30 000 miles or 3 years

28 Coolant renewal

Note: If the antifreeze used is Ford’s own, or of similar quality, the coolant need not be renewed for the life of the vehicle. If the vehicle’s history is unknown, if antifreeze of lesser quality is known to be in the system, or simply if you prefer to follow conventional servicing intervals, the coolant should be changed periodically (typically, every 2 years) as described here. Refer also to “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” in this Section.

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the

tank filler cap when the engine is running, or has just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.

Coolant draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure.

1 To drain the system, first remove the

expansion tank filler cap (see Section 3). 2 If the additional working clearance is required, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.

3 Where fitted, remove the radiator undershield (eight or nine screws), then place a large drain tray underneath, and unscrew the radiator drain plug - you can use a small coin to do this, as the plug’s slotted for this purpose (see illustration). Direct as much of the escaping coolant as possible into the tray.

System flushing

4 With time, the cooling system may gradually lose its efficiency, as the radiator core becomes choked with rust, scale deposits from the water, and other sediment (refer also to “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” later in this Section). To minimise this, as well as using only good-quality antifreeze and clean soft water, the system should be flushed as follows whenever any part of it is disturbed, and/or when the coolant is renewed. 5 With the coolant drained, refit the drain plug, and refill the system with fresh water. Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature, then stop it and (after allowing it to cool down completely) drain the system again. Repeat as necessary until only clean water can be seen to emerge, then refill finally with the specified coolant mixture as described below. 6 If only clean, soft water and good-quality antifreeze (even if not to Ford’s specification) has been used, and the coolant has been renewed at the suggested intervals, the above procedure will be sufficient to keep clean the system for a considerable length of time. If, however, the system has been neglected, a more thorough operation will be required, as follows. 7 First drain the coolant, then disconnect the radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a garden hose into the top hose, and allow water to circulate through the radiator until it runs clean from the bottom outlet. 8 To flush the engine, insert the garden hose into the thermostat water outlet, and allow water to circulate until it runs clear from the bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator should be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. 9 In severe cases of contamination, reverse-

flushing of the radiator may be necessary. To do this, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), invert it, and insert the garden hose into the bottom outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs from the top hose outlet. A similar procedure can be used to flush the heater matrix. 10 The use of chemical cleaners should be necessary only as a last resort. Normally, regular renewal of the coolant will prevent excessive contamination of the system.

Coolant filling

11 With the cooling system drained and flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions are correctly secured, and that the radiator drain plug is securely tightened. Refit the radiator undershield, noting that it is located by three clips at its front edge; tighten the retaining screws securely. If it was raised, lower the vehicle to the ground. 12 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the specified coolant mixture (see below); allow for a surplus, so as to have a reserve supply for topping-up. 13 Slowly fill the system through the expansion tank; since the tank is the highest point in the system, all the air in the system should be displaced into the tank by the rising liquid. Slow pouring reduces the possibility of air being trapped and forming airlocks. 14 Continue filling until the coolant level reaches the expansion tank “MAX” level line, then cover the filler opening to prevent coolant splashing out. 15 Start the engine and run it at idle speed, until it has warmed-up to normal operating temperature and the radiator cooling fan has cut in; watch the temperature gauge to check for signs of overheating. If the level in the expansion tank drops significantly, top-up to the “MAX” level line, to minimise the amount of air circulating in the system. 16 Stop the engine, allow it to cool down completely (overnight, if possible), then uncover the expansion tank filler opening and top-up the tank to the “MAX” level line. Refit the filler cap, tightening it securely, and wash off any spilt coolant from the engine compartment and bodywork. 17 After refilling, always check carefully all components of the system (but especially any unions disturbed during draining and flushing) for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has a searching action, which will rapidly expose any weak points in the system.

18 Note: If, after draining and refilling the system, symptoms of overheating are found which did not occur previously, then the fault is almost certainly due to trapped air at some point in the system, causing an airlock and restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped because the system was refilled too quickly. In some cases, airlocks can be released by tapping or squeezing the various hoses. If the problem persists, stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely, before unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or disconnecting hoses to bleed out the trapped air.

Antifreeze mixture

19 If the antifreeze used is not to Ford’s specification, it should always be renewed at the suggested intervals (typically, every 2 years). This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent the corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective. Always use an ethylene glycolbased antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. 20 If the antifreeze used is to Ford’s specification, the levels of protection it affords are indicated in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. To give the recommended standard mixture ratio for this antifreeze, 40% (by volume) of antifreeze must be mixed with 60% of clean, soft water; if you are using any other type of antifreeze, follow its manufacturer’s instructions to achieve the correct ratio. It is best to make up slightly more than the system’s specified capacity, so that a supply is available for subsequent topping-up. 21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. As noted earlier, fresh antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in the system. 22 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. If topping-up using antifreeze to Ford’s specification, note that a 50/50 mixture is permissible, purely for convenience. 23 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will damage the vehicle’s paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in its maker’s recommended quantities.

Antifreeze - notes on renewal

24 Ford state that, where antifreeze to Ford specification ESD-M97B-49-A is used, it will last the lifetime of the vehicle. This is subject to it being used in the recommended concentration, unmixed with any other type of antifreeze or additive, and topped-up when necessary using only that antifreeze mixed 50/50 with clean water. If any other type of antifreeze is added, the lifetime guarantee no longer applies; to restore the lifetime protection, the system must be drained and thoroughly reverse-flushed before fresh coolant mixture is poured in. 25 If the vehicle’s history (and therefore the quality of the antifreeze in it) is unknown, owners who wish to follow Ford’s recommendations are advised to drain and thoroughly reverse-flush the system before refilling with fresh coolant mixture. If the appropriate quality of antifreeze is used, the coolant can then be left for the life of the vehicle.

Every 30 000 miles 1•27

28.3 Use a small coin to unscrew the radiator drain plug

26 If any antifreeze other than Ford’s is to be used, the coolant must be renewed at regular intervals to provide an equivalent degree of protection; the conventional recommendation is to renew the coolant every two years. 27 The above assumes the use of a mixture (in exactly the specified concentration) of clean, soft water and of antifreeze to Ford’s specification or equivalent. It is also assumed that the cooling system is maintained in a scrupulously-clean condition, by ensuring that only clean coolant is added on topping-up, and by thorough reverse-flushing whenever the coolant is drained.

General cooling system checks

28 The engine should be cold for the cooling system checks, so perform the following procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it has been shut off for at least three hours. 29 Remove the expansion tank filler cap (see Section 3), and clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag. Also clean the filler neck on the expansion tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the coolant should be changed. The coolant inside the expansion tank should be relatively clean and transparent. If it is rust- coloured, drain and flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant mixture. 30 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length; renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated (see Section 12). 31 Inspect all other cooling system

components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 32 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc, embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers on them.

29 Air cleaner element renewal

1 The air cleaner filter element is located in the air cleaner assembly mounted either on top of the carburettor or CFi unit, or on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. Undo the retaining screws and/or release the clips, and lift the air cleaner cover (see illustrations). 2 Lift out the element, and wipe out the housing. Check that no foreign matter is visible, either in the air inlet or in the air mass meter, as applicable. 3 If carrying out a routine service, the element must be renewed regardless of its apparent condition. Note that the small foam PCV filter in the rear right-hand corner of the air cleaner housing must be cleaned whenever the air filter element is renewed (see Section 30).

4 If you are checking the element for any other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is only moderately dusty, it can be re-used after blowing it clean from the upper to the lower surface with compressed air.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Because it is a pleated-paper

type filter, it cannot be washed or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air, discard and renew it.

Caution: Never drive the vehicle

with the air cleaner filter element

removed. Excessive engine wear could result, and backfiring could even cause a fire under the bonnet.

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the element and cover are securely seated, so that unfiltered air cannot enter the engine.

Air cleaner temperature control system check (carburettor fuel system)

6 In order for the engine to operate efficiently, the temperature of the air entering the inlet system must be controlled within certain limits. 7 The air cleaner has two sources of air, one direct from the outside of the engine compartment, and the other from a shroud on the exhaust manifold. On HCS engines, a wax-controlled thermostatic valve controls a

1•28 Every 30 000 miles

29.1F . . . then lift off the cover and withdraw the element

29.1E . . . and release the clips . . .29.1D On EFi and SEFi engines, undo the

air cleaner cover retaining screws . . .

29.1C . . . then lift off the cover and withdraw the element

29.1B . . . and release the clips . . .29.1A On carburettor and CFi engines,

undo the air cleaner cover retaining

screws . . .

flap inside the air cleaner inlet. When the ambient air temperature is below a predetermined level, the flap admits air heated from the exhaust manifold shroud; as the ambient temperature rises, the flap opens to admit more cool air from the engine compartment until eventually it is fully open. A similar system is used on CVH engines, except that a vacuum actuator modifies any opening or closing action of the temperature sensor on the flap valve, according to the level of the inlet manifold vacuum under running conditions.

HCS engines

8 This check must be made when the engine

is cold. Detach and remove the air cleaner inlet trunking. Examine the position of the check valve within the duct. When the underbonnet air temperature is below 28ºC, the valve must be open to allow hot air to enter the filter (see illustration). 9 Refit the inlet trunking. Start the engine and run it until it reaches its normal operating temperature, then stop the engine, remove the inlet trunking and check that the valve has closed off the air passage from the exhaust and opened the main (cool) air inlet. 10 If the flap does not operate correctly, check that it is not seized. Apart from this there is no adjustment possible, and the unit should be renewed if faulty. Refit the air inlet trunking on completion.

CVH engines

11 This check must be made when the

engine is cold. Disconnect the main air inlet duct, and visibly check that the flap to the hot-air inlet is closed (i.e. open to the passage of cold air). 12 Start the engine, and check that with the engine idling, the hot-air inlet is open to allow warm air from the exhaust manifold area to enter the air cleaner. If the flap operates as described, it is functioning correctly (see

illustration). 13 If the flap fails to operate as described,

check the condition of the vacuum pipe and its connections, and check that the flap valve has not seized. If these are in order, either the

temperature sensor or vacuum actuator is faulty, and a new air cleaner assembly must be obtained. Refit the main air duct on completion.

30 Positive Crankcase

Ventilation (PCV) system check and filter cleaning

1 The function of the crankcase ventilation system is to reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to minimise the formation of oil sludge. By ensuring that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle, and by positively inducing fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and “blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase are drawn from the crankcase, through the air cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. 2 On HCS engines, the system consists of a vented oil filler cap (with an integral mesh filter) and a hose connecting it to the oil separator/engine breather valve connector on the underside of the air cleaner housing. A further hose leads from the adapter/filter to the inlet manifold. 3 On CVH engines, a closed-circuit type crankcase ventilation system is used, the function of which is basically the same as that described for the HCS engine type, but the breather hose connects directly to the rocker cover. The oil filler cap incorporates a separate filter in certain applications. 4 On Zetec engines, the crankcase ventilation system main components are the oil separator mounted on the front (radiator) side of the cylinder block/crankcase, and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve set in a rubber grommet in the separator’s lefthand upper end. The associated pipework consists of a crankcase breather pipe and two flexible hoses connecting the PCV valve to a union on the left-hand end of the inlet manifold, and a crankcase breather hose connecting the cylinder head cover to the air

cleaner assembly. A small foam filter in the air cleaner prevents dirt from being drawn directly into the engine. 5 Check that all components of the system are securely fastened, correctly routed (with no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in sound condition; renew any worn or damaged components. 6 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the various hoses and pipes, and check that all are clear and unblocked. Remove the air cleaner assembly cover, and check that the hose from the cylinder head cover to the air cleaner housing is clear and undamaged. 7 Where fitted, the PCV valve is designed to allow gases to flow out of the crankcase only, so that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle. Therefore, if either the oil separator or the PCV valve are thought to be blocked, they must be renewed (see Chapter

6). In such a case, however, there is nothing to be lost by attempting to flush out the blockage using a suitable solvent. The PCV valve should rattle when shaken. 8 While the air filter element is removed (see Section 29), wipe out the housing, and on Zetec engines, withdraw the small foam filter from its location in the rear right-hand corner of the housing (see illustration). If the foam is badly clogged with dirt or oil, it must be cleaned by soaking it in a suitable solvent, and allowed to dry before being refitted.

31 Oil filler cap check

1 On HCS engines, remove and inspect the cap to ensure that it is in good condition, and not blocked up with sludge. 2 Disconnect the hoses at the cap, and clean the cap if necessary by brushing the inner mesh filter with petrol, and blowing through with light pressure from an air line. Renew the cap if it is badly congested.

Every 30 000 miles 1•29

30.8 The PCV system foam filter is located in the rear right-hand corner of the air

cleaner housing on Zetec engines

29.12 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve on the CVH engine

A Flap open (cool air inlet closed) B Warm air inlet

29.8 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve on the HCS engine

A Main air cleaner inlet (cool air) B Warm air duct (flap open)

32 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

1 The automatic transmission fluid should only be changed when the transmission is cold. 2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit, on vehicle ramps, or jack it up, but make sure that it is level. 3 Place a suitable container beneath the drain plug on the transmission sump pan. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick to speed up the draining operation. 4 Thoroughly clean the area around the drain plug in the transmission sump pan, then unscrew the plug and allow the fluid to drain into the container. 5 When all the fluid has drained (this may take quite some time) clean the drain plug, then refit it together with a new seal and tighten it securely. 6 Place a funnel with a fine mesh screen in the dipstick tube, and fill the transmission with the specified type of fluid. It is essential that no dirt is introduced into the transmission during this operation. 7 Depending on the extent to which the fluid was allowed to drain, it is possible that the amount of fluid required when filling the transmission may be more than the specified amount (see “Lubricants, fluids and capacities”). However, due to fluid remaining

in the system, it is more likely that less than the specified amount will be required. Add about half the specified amount, then run the engine up to its normal operating temperature and check the level on the dipstick. When the level approaches the maximum mark, proceed as detailed in Section 7 to check the level and complete the final topping-up as described.

33 Handbrake adjustment

1 Chock the front roadwheels and fully release the handbrake. 2 Raise the vehicle at the rear, and support it on axle stands. 3 Check that the handbrake cables are correctly routed and secured by the retaining clips at the appropriate points under the vehicle.

Drum brake models

4 The handbrake is checked for adjustment by measuring the amount of movement possible in the handbrake adjuster plungers. These are located on the inside face of each rear brake backplate (see illustration). The total movement of the two plungers combined should be between 0.5 and 2.0 mm. If the movement measured is outside of this tolerance, the handbrake is in need of

adjustment. Adjustment is made altering the position of the in-line cable adjuster sleeve

(see illustration). 5 When adjustment to the handbrake is

necessary, a new adjustment sleeve locking pin will be required, and this must therefore be obtained before making the adjustment. 6 To adjust the handbrake, first ensure that it is fully released, then firmly apply the footbrake a few times to ensure that the rear brake adjustment is taken up by the automatic adjusters. Extract the locking pin from the adjuster sleeve, then turn the sleeve to set the combined movement of the plungers within the tolerance range specified (0.5 to 2.0 mm). Turn the locking nut by hand as tight as is possible (two clicks) against the adjustment sleeve. Now grip the locknut with a suitable wrench, and turn it a further two clicks (maximum). 7 Secure the adjustment by inserting the new lock pin. 8 Check that the operation of the handbrake is satisfactory, then lower the vehicle to the ground, apply the handbrake and remove the chocks from the front wheels.

Disc brake models

9 Remove the blanking plug from the rear of the brake carrier plate, just below and to the rear of the brake caliper. 10 With the handbrake released, insert a screwdriver through the blanking plug hole and engage the end of the screwdriver in the teeth of the adjuster wheel. Move the screwdriver up and down to turn the adjuster wheel as necessary, until the wheel is just locked. 11 Now back off the adjuster wheel until the wheel can be turned freely without binding. 12 Repeat this procedure on the other brake assembly, then check the operation of the handbrake. Ensure that both wheels are locked when the handbrake lever is applied, and that both are released, with no trace of binding when the lever is fully released. 13 When all is satisfactory, refit the blanking plugs, and lower the vehicle to the ground. Reapply the handbrake and remove the chocks from the front wheels.

1•30 Every 30 000 miles

33.4B Handbrake cable adjuster nut (A) locknut (B) and lockpin (C)

33.4A Handbrake adjustment plunger on drum brake models

34 Timing belt renewal

Refer to Chapter 2, Part B or C as

appropriate.

35 Fuel filter renewal

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on

any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke, or allow open flames or bare light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present. While performing any work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses, and have a suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water.

1 On fuel-injected engines, an in-line fuel filter is provided in the fuel pump outlet line, and is located below and to the rear of the engine, above the driveshafts. The filter performs a vital role in keeping dirt and other foreign matter out of the fuel system, and so must be renewed at regular intervals, or whenever you have reason to suspect that it may be clogged. It is always unpleasant working under a vehicle - pressure-washing or hosing

clean the underbody in the filter’s vicinity will make working conditions more tolerable, and will reduce the risk of getting dirt into the fuel system. 2 Relieve any residual pressure in the system by removing the fuel pump fuse (No 5) and starting the engine; allow the engine to idle until it dies. Turn the engine over once or twice on the starter, to ensure that all pressure is released, then switch off the ignition.

Warning: This procedure will merely relieve the increased pressure necessary for the engine

to run - remember that fuel will still be present in the system components, and take precautions accordingly before disconnecting any of them.

3 Noting the comments made in Section 1 of Chapter 5, disconnect the battery earth terminal. 4 Jack up the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands. 5 Using rag to soak up any spilt fuel, release the fuel feed and outlet pipe unions from the filter, by squeezing together the protruding locking lugs on each union, and carefully pulling the union off the filter stub. Where the unions are colour-coded, the feed and outlet pipes cannot be confused; where both unions are the same colour, note carefully which pipe is connected to which filter stub, and ensure that they are correctly reconnected on refitting. 6 Noting the arrows and/or other markings on the filter showing the direction of fuel flow (towards the engine), slacken the filter clamp

screw and withdraw the filter. Note that the filter will still contain fuel; care should be taken, to avoid spillage and to minimise the risk of fire. 7 On installation, slide the filter into its clamp so that the arrow marked on it faces the correct way (see illustration), then slide each pipe union on to its (correct) respective filter stub, and press it down until the locking lugs click into their groove. Tighten the clamp screw carefully, until the filter is just prevented from moving; do not overtighten the clamp screw, or the filter casing may be crushed. 8 Refit the fuel pump fuse and reconnect the battery earth terminal, then switch the ignition on and off five times, to pressurise the system. Check for any sign of fuel leakage around the filter unions before lowering the vehicle to the ground and starting the engine.

Every 60 000 miles 1•31

35.7 Fuel filter as fitted to 1.6 litre EFi

engines showing direction of flow arrow

Every 60 000 miles

Every 3 years

36 Brake fluid renewal

The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by syphoning,

and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be removed from the circuit when bleeding a section of the circuit.

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line overhead valve

Engine code:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JBD

CFi fuel-injected models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J6A

Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1297 cc

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.96 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.48 mm

Compression ratio:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1

CFi fuel-injected models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.8:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Valves

Valve clearance (cold):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Oil pressure:

At idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.60 bars

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50 bars

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.14 to 0.26 mm

Inner rotor-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.127 mm

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.06 mm

Chapter 2 Part A:

HCS engine - in-car engine repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and

inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Cylinder head rocker gear - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . 9

Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 18

Exhaust manifold - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Timing chain cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3

2A•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 3 to 4

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 20 12 to 14

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 120 81 to 88

Rocker gear pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 46 30 to 34

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 to 70 47 to 51

Exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 15 to 18

Inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 20 12 to 15

Sump:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Stage 3 (with engine warm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 15 10 to 11

Cylinder head bolts (may be re-used once only):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Timing chain tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 9 5 to 6

Timing chain cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 10 5 to 7

Crankshaft rear oil seal housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 20 12 to 14

Rocker cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 3 to 4

Oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 20 12 to 14

Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9

Note:

Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2A•2 HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

1.6 litre CVH engines, and the 1.6 and 1.8 litre

Zetec engines, will be found in Parts B and C of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

General description HCS engine

The engine is an overhead valve, watercooled, four cylinder in-line design, designated HCS (High Compression Swirl) (see illustration). It is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle together with the transmission to form a combined power unit.

The crankshaft is supported in five shelltype main bearings. The connecting rod bigend bearings are also split shell-type, and are attached to the pistons by interference-fit

1.3 Cutaway view of the HCS engine

1.6 HCS engine lubrication circuit

gudgeon pins. Each piston is fitted with two compression rings and one oil control ring.

The camshaft, which runs on bearings within the cylinder block, is chain-driven from the crankshaft, and operates the valves via pushrods and rocker arms. The valves are each closed by a single valve spring, and operate in guides integral in the cylinder head.

The oil pump is mounted externally on the crankcase, incorporates a full-flow oil filter, and is driven by a skew gear on the camshaft (see illustration). On carburettor versions, the fuel pump is also driven from the camshaft, via an eccentric lobe.

2 Repair operations possible

with the engine in the vehicle

The following major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle:

a) Compression pressure - testing. b) Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and

refitting. c) Valve clearances - adjustment. d) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising. e) Rocker shaft assembly - removal and

refitting. f) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. g) Oil filter renewal. h) Oil pump - removal and refitting. i) Sump - removal and refitting. j) Piston/connecting rod assemblies -

removal and refitting. k) Flywheel - removal, inspection and

refitting. l) Engine/transmission mountings - removal

and refitting.

Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreaser before any work is done. It will make the job easier, and will help to keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the bonnet, to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary). Cover the wings to prevent damage to the paint; special covers are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work.

If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for component/gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets, sump gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket are all accessible with the engine in place.

Exterior components such as the inlet and exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil pump, the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator and the fuel system components can be removed for repair with the engine in place.

Since the cylinder head can be removed without lifting out the engine, valve component servicing can also be accomplished with the engine in the vehicle.

In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or renewal of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended, because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the components involved, and because of the amount of preliminary dismantling work required - these operations are therefore covered in Part D of this Chapter.

3 Compression test -

description and interpretation

1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the oil level must be correct, the battery must be fully charged, and the spark plugs must be removed. The aid of an assistant will also be required. 3 Disconnect the 3-pin plug from the DIS ignition coil (under the inlet manifold). 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. 5 Arrange for an assistant to hold the accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor, while at the same time cranking the engine over for several seconds on the starter motor. Observe the compression gauge reading. The compression will build up fairly quickly in a healthy engine. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression on the first stroke which does not rise on successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could also be the cause). Deposits on the underside of the valve heads can also cause low compression. Record the highest gauge reading obtained, then repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders. 6 Due to the variety of testers available, and the fluctuation in starter motor speed when cranking the engine, different readings are often obtained when carrying out the compression test. For this reason, actual compression pressure figures are not quoted by Ford. However, the most important factor is that the compression pressures are uniform in all cylinders, and that is what this test is mainly concerned with.

7 Add some engine oil (about three squirts from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder through the spark plug holes, and then repeat the test. 8 If the compression increases after the oil is added, it is indicative that the piston rings are definitely worn. If the compression does not increase significantly, the leakage is occurring at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be caused by burned valve seats and/or faces, or warped, cracked or bent valves. 9 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low compressions, it is most likely that the head gasket has blown between them. The appearance of coolant in the combustion chambers or on the engine oil dipstick would verify this condition. 10 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the other, and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could be the cause. 11 On completion of the checks, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads and the DIS ignition coil plug.

4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

No 1 piston - locating

1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC position at the end of its compression stroke, and then again at the end of its exhaust stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC at the end of the compression stroke for No 1 piston is used. On the HCS engine, No 1 cylinder is at the crankshaft pulley/timing chain end of the engine. Proceed as follows. 2 Ensure that the ignition is switched off. Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, then unscrew and remove the plugs as described in Chapter 1. 3 Turn the engine over by hand (using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley) to the point where the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the TDC (0) mark on the timing cover (see illustration). As the pulley mark nears the timing mark, the No 1 piston is simultaneously approaching the top of its cylinder. To ensure that it is on its

HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•3

4.3 Timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligned with the TDC (0) mark on the

timing cover

compression stroke, place a finger over the No 1 cylinder plug hole, and feel to ensure that air pressure exits from the cylinder as the piston reaches the top of its stroke. 4 A further check to ensure that the piston is on its compression stroke can be made by first removing the air cleaner (see Chapter 4), then unbolting and removing the rocker cover, so that the movement of the valves and rockers can be observed. 5 With the TDC timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and timing cover in alignment, rock the crankshaft back and forth a few degrees each side of this position, and observe the action of the valves and rockers for No 1 cylinder. When No 1 piston is at the TDC firing position, the inlet and exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder will be fully closed, but the corresponding valves of No 4 cylinder will be seen to rock open and closed. 6 If the inlet and exhaust valves of No 1 cylinder are seen to rock whilst those of No 4 cylinder are shut, the crankshaft will need to be turned one full rotation to bring No 1 piston up to the top of its cylinder on the compression stroke. 7 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise (in its normal direction of rotation), 180∞ at a time, and following the firing order (see Specifications).

5 Cylinder head rocker cover -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4. 2 Detach the HT leads from the spark plugs. Pull on the connector of each lead (not the lead itself), and note the order of fitting. 3 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the rocker cover clear of the cylinder head. Remove the gasket. 4 Thoroughly clean the rocker cover, and scrape away any traces of old gasket remaining on the cover and cylinder head mating surfaces. 5 Fit a new gasket to the rocker cover, then

refit the rocker cover (see illustrations). Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting, in a diagonal sequence. 6 Reconnect the HT leads, and refit the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4.

6 Valve clearances -

checking and adjustment

1 This operation must be carried out with the engine cold. The air cleaner (see Chapter 4), the rocker cover and the spark plugs (see Chapter 1) must first be removed. As the plugs and their HT leads are removed, note their order of fitting, so that they may be refitted in their original locations. 2 Set the engine to TDC for No 1 piston, as described in Section 4. 3 Starting from the thermostat end of the cylinder head, the valves are numbered as follows:

Valve No Cylinder No

1 - Exhaust 1 2 - Inlet 1 3 - Exhaust 2 4 - Inlet 2 5 - Inlet 3 6 - Exhaust 3 7 - Inlet 4

8 - Exhaust 4 4 Adjust the valve clearances following the sequence given in the following table. Turn the crankshaft pulley 180º (half a turn) after adjusting each pair of valve clearances.

Valves “rocking” Valves to adjust

7 and 8 1 (exhaust), 2 (inlet)

5 and 6 3 (exhaust), 4 (inlet)

1 and 2 8 (exhaust), 7 (inlet)

3 and 4 6 (exhaust), 5 (inlet) 5 The clearances for the inlet and exhaust valves differ (refer to the Specifications). Use a feeler gauge of the appropriate thickness to check each clearance between the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm (see illustration). The gauge should be a firm sliding fit between the valve and rocker arm. Where adjustment is necessary, turn the adjuster bolt as required with a ring spanner to set the clearance to that specified. The

adjuster bolts are of stiff-thread type, and require no locking nut. 6 Refit the rocker cover, and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque setting in a diagonal sequence. 7 Refit the spark plugs, and reconnect the HT leads.

8 Refit the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4.

7 Inlet manifold -

removal and refitting

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs, in or near the work area. Don’t work in a garage where a natural gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy, and know how to use it.

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. 2 Remove the carburettor or CFi unit (as applicable) as described in Chapter 4. 3 Noting their locations, disconnect the coolant, vacuum and breather hoses from the manifold. 4 Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from the engine sensors at the inlet manifold. Disconnect the radio earth lead at the inlet manifold connector. 5 Undo the retaining bolts, and withdraw the manifold from the cylinder head. Remove the gasket. 6 With the manifold removed, clean all traces of the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the manifold and the cylinder head.

Refitting

7 Refitting is the reversal of removal. Use a new gasket, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. Refit the remainder of the components with reference to the appropriate Chapters of this manual.

2A•4 HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures

6.5 Adjusting the valve clearances5.5B Refitting the rocker cover5.5A Engage tags of rocker cover gasket

into the cut-outs in the cover

8 Exhaust manifold - removal,

inspection and refitting

Note: Never work on or near the exhaust system and in particular, the catalytic converter (where fitted), while it is still hot. If this is unavoidable, wear thick gloves, and protect yourself from burns should you accidentally touch a hot exhaust component.

Removal

1 The exhaust manifold is secured the cylinder head by studs and nuts, and is similarly attached to the exhaust downpipe. A shroud/heat shield is bolted to the manifold, to direct exhaust-heated air into the air inlet system when the engine is cold. Access to the exhaust manifold retaining nuts is gained by first removing this shroud (see illustration). 2 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air system, remove the pulse-air piping as described in Chapter 6. 3 Support the exhaust downpipe on a jack or suitable blocks, and undo the downpipe-tomanifold retaining nuts. Separate the pipe from the manifold, and remove the gasket. On catalytic converter-equipped vehicles, take care not to stretch the oxygen sensor wiring, where applicable; if necessary, disconnect the sensor’s multi-plug. 4 Undo the retaining nuts, and withdraw the manifold from the cylinder head studs. Remove the manifold gasket.

Inspection

coil spring, spring seat and self-locking nut on each. On refitting, tighten the nuts until they stop on the bolt shoulders; the pressure of the springs will then suffice to make a gastight joint. 8 Do not overtighten the nuts to cure a leak the bolts will shear; renew the gasket and the springs if a leak is found. The bolts themselves are secured by spring clips to the manifold, and can be renewed easily if damaged.

Refitting

9 Refit the manifold in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque - see previous paragraph. Ensure that all adjacent wiring and hoses are clear of the exhaust system and manifold, and on completion check the system joints for any signs of leaks.

9 Cylinder head rocker gear -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the rocker cover as described in Section 5. 2 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder head.

As the assembly is withdrawn, ensure that the pushrods remain seated in their positions in the engine.

Inspection

3 To dismantle the rocker shaft assembly, extract the split pin from one end of the shaft, then withdraw the spring and plain washers from the shaft. 4 Slide off the rocker arms, the support pedestals and coil springs from the shaft, but take care to keep them in their original order of fitting (see illustrations). 5 Clean the respective components, and inspect them for signs of excessive wear or damage. Check that the oil lubrication holes in the shaft are clear. 6 Check the rocker shaft and arm pads which bear on the valve stem end faces for wear and scoring, and check each rocker arm on the shaft for excessive wear. Renew any components as necessary.

Refitting

7 Apply clean engine oil to the rocker shaft prior to reassembling. 8 Reassemble in the reverse order of dismantling. Make sure that the “flat” on the

HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•5

9.4A Rocker shaft and associated components

8.1 Exhaust manifold shroud/heat shield

9.4B Partially-dismantled rocker shaft

If the pushrods are to be removed, keep them in the correct order of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from the thermostat end of the cylinder head, or locate them in a card.

rear end of the rocker shaft is to the same side as the rocker arm adjusting screws (closest to the thermostat end of the cylinder head when fitted) (see illustration). This is essential for the correct lubrication of the cylinder head components. 9 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws engage with their corresponding pushrods. 10 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts, hand-tighten them and then tighten them to the specified torque wrench setting. As they are tightened, some of the rocker arms will apply pressure to the ends of the valve stems, and some of the rocker pedestals will not initially be in contact with the cylinder head these should pull down as the bolts are tightened to their specified torque. If for any reason they do not, avoid the temptation to overtighten in order to pull them into position; loosen off the bolts, and check the cause of the problem. It may be that the rocker adjuster screws require loosening off in order to allow the assembly to be tightened down as required. 11 Adjust the valve clearances as described in Section 6.

10 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 On CFi-equipped engines, depressurise the fuel system as described in Chapter 4. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 3 Whenever you disconnect any vacuum lines, coolant or emissions hoses, wiring loom connectors, earth straps and fuel lines as part of the following procedure, always label them clearly, so that they can be correctly reassembled. Masking tape and/or a touchup paint applicator work well for marking items. Take instant photos, or sketch the locations of components and brackets. 4 Refer to Section 5 and remove the rocker cover. 5 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling system. 6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat housing.

7 Disconnect the heater (coolant) hoses from the inlet manifold and CFi unit, where applicable. 8 Disconnect the accelerator and choke cables from the carburettor or CFi unit, as applicable (see Chapter 4). 9 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum hoses from the carburettor/CFi unit and inlet manifold. 10 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs and the support bracket. Unscrew and remove the spark plugs. 11 Disconnect the electrical leads from the temperature gauge sender, radiator cooling fan, the engine coolant temperature sender (beneath the inlet manifold), the radio earth lead on the inlet manifold, and the anti-run-on (anti-dieselling) valve at the carburettor. 12 Remove the engine oil filler cap and breather hose. 13 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air system, remove the pulse-air piping as described in Chapter 6. 14 Apply the handbrake, then raise the vehicle at the front end, and support it on axle stands. 15 Undo the retaining nuts and bolts, and disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. Remove the flange gasket. (Note that both the gasket and the joint self-locking nuts must be renewed.) To prevent the exhaust system from being strained, tie the downpipe up using strong wire or a length of cord to support it. On catalytic converterequipped vehicles, take care not to stretch the oxygen sensor wiring, where applicable; if necessary, disconnect the sensor’s multiplug. Lower the vehicle.

16 Undo the four retaining bolts and lift clear the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder head. 17 Lift out the pushrods. Keep them in order of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from the thermostat end of the cylinder head. Alternatively, push them through a piece of card in their fitted sequence (see illustration). 18 Progressively unscrew and loosen off the cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse sequence to that shown for tightening (see illustration 10.24A). When they are all loosened off, remove the bolts, then lift the cylinder head clear and remove the gasket. The gasket must always be renewed; it should be noted that the cylinder head retaining bolts may be re-used, but only once. They should be marked accordingly with a punch or paint mark. If there is any doubt as to how many times the bolts have been used, they must be renewed. 19 To dismantle/overhaul the cylinder head, refer to Part D of this Chapter. It is normal for the cylinder head to be decarbonised and the valves to be reground whenever the head is removed.

Refitting

20 Prior to refitting the cylinder head, clean all carbon deposits, dirt and any traces of the old cylinder head gasket, from the mating faces of both the head and the cylinder block. Do not allow any dirt to drop into the cylinder bores, oil passages or waterways; if any does, remove it. Clean the threads of the cylinder head bolts or fit new ones (as applicable) and clean out the bolt holes in the block. Screwing a bolt into an oil-filled hole can (in extreme cases) cause the block to fracture, due to the hydraulic pressure. 21 If there is any doubt as to the condition of the exhaust and inlet manifold gaskets, the manifolds must be removed and the gaskets renewed, but ensure that the mating faces are clean before fitting new gaskets. 22 Check that the new cylinder head gasket is the same type as the original, and that the “TOP” (or “OBEN”) marking is facing upwards. Locate the new cylinder head gasket onto the top face of the cylinder block and over the dowels. Ensure that it is correctly aligned with the coolant passages and oilways (see illustrations).

2A•6 HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures

10.22B Cylinder head gasket in position on

the top face of the cylinder block

10.22A Cylinder head gasket top-face marking (“OBEN”)

10.17 Withdraw the pushrods9.8 Flat on the rocker shaft (arrowed) to

same side as rocker arm adjusting screws

23 Lower the cylinder head carefully into

position, then insert the retaining bolts and hand-tighten them. 24 Tightening of the cylinder head bolts must done in three stages, and in the correct sequence (see illustration 10.18). First tighten all of the bolts in the sequence shown to the Stage 1 torque setting. When all of the bolts are tightened to the Stage 1 setting, further tighten each bolt (in sequence) through the Stage 2 specified angle of rotation. When the second stage tightening is completed on all of the bolts, further tighten them to the Stage 3 angle setting (in sequence) to complete. Where possible, use an angular torque setting gauge attachment tool for accurate tightening of stages two and three

(see illustrations). 25 Lubricate the pushrods with clean engine

oil, and then insert them into their original locations in the engine. 26 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws engage with their corresponding pushrods. 27 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts, hand-tighten them and then tighten them to the specified torque wrench setting. As they are tightened, some of the rocker arms will apply pressure to the ends of the valve stems, and some of the rocker pedestals will not initially be in contact with the cylinder head these should pull down as the bolts are tightened to their specified torque. If for any reason they do not, avoid the temptation to overtighten in order to pull them into position; loosen off the bolts, and check the cause of the problem. It may be that the rocker adjuster screws require loosening off in order to allow the assembly to be tightened down as required. 28 Adjust the valve clearances as described in Section 6. 29 Refit the spark plugs and tighten them to the specified torque (see Chapter 1). 30 Fit a new gasket to the rocker cover, then refit the rocker cover. Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 31 The remainder of the refitting procedure is a reversal of the removal process. Tighten all fastenings to their specified torque setting

(where given). Refer to the appropriate Section in Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the accelerator and choke cables. Ensure that all coolant, fuel, vacuum and electrical connections are securely made. 32 On completion, top-up the engine oil and coolant levels. When the engine is restarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/or coolant leakages from the various cylinder head joints.

11 Crankshaft pulley -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Apply the handbrake, then raise and support the vehicle at the front end on axle stands. 3 Undo the three retaining bolts and remove the plastic cover from the underside of the auxiliary drivebelt. 4 Loosen off the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt. To prevent the crankshaft from turning, unbolt and remove the clutch housing cover plate, and jam the starter ring gear on the flywheel. 5 Loosen off the alternator mounting/adjuster bolts, then pivot the alternator to slacken off the tension from the auxiliary drivebelt, and disengage the belt from the crankshaft pulley (see Chapter 1). 6 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, and withdraw the pulley from the front end of the crankshaft. If it does not pull off by hand, lever it free using a pair of suitable levers positioned diagonally opposite each other behind the pulley. 7 If required, the crankshaft front oil seal can be renewed at this stage, as described in Section 17.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. When the pulley is refitted, tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque setting. Relocate the drivebelt over the pulley,

and adjust the tension as described in Chapter 1. 9 Refit the drivebelt plastic cover, and lower the vehicle to complete.

12 Timing chain cover -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described in the previous Section. 2 A combined timing cover and water pump gasket is fitted during production; if this is still in position, it will be necessary to drain the cooling system and remove the water pump as described in Chapter 3. If the water pump and/or the timing cover have been removed at any time, the single gasket used originally will have been replaced by an individual item, in which case the water pump can remain in position. 3 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and carefully prise free the timing chain cover. Note that two of the retaining bolts also secure the sump at the front end. Remove the engine front face-to-cover gasket. If the sump-totiming cover gasket is damaged during the removal of the cover, it will be necessary to drain and remove the sump in order to renew the gasket, in which case refer to Section 14 for details. 4 Clean the mating faces of the timing chain cover and the engine. 5 If necessary, renew the crankshaft front oil seal in the timing cover prior to refitting the cover (see Section 17).

Refitting

6 Before refitting the cover into position, clean the contact faces at the point where the timing chain cover meets the sump gasket each side. Smear the faces at this point with sealant; it is important that a good seal is made. As previously mentioned, if the sump gasket is damaged on either side at the front, it must be renewed (see Section 14) prior to refitting the timing chain cover. 7 Lightly lubricate the front end of the

HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•7

10.24C Cylinder head bolt tightening

(Stages 2 and 3) using an angle gauge

10.24B Tightening the cylinder head bolts (Stage 1)

10.24A Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

crankshaft and the radial lip of the timing chain cover oil seal (already installed in the cover). Using a new gasket, fit the timing chain cover, centring it with the aid of the crankshaft pulley (see illustration) - lubricate the seal contact surfaces beforehand. Where applicable, leave out the timing cover bolt which also secures the water pump at this stage. 8 Where applicable, refit the water pump as described in Chapter 3. 9 Refit the crankshaft pulley as described in the previous Section. Refer to Chapter 1 for details on refitting and adjusting the auxiliary drivebelt.

13 Timing chain, sprockets and

tensioner - removal,

inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Remove the timing chain cover as described in the previous Section.

3 Refer to Section 14 and remove the sump. 4 Remove the oil slinger from the front face of the crankshaft, noting its orientation (see illustration). 5 Retract the chain tensioner cam back

against its spring pressure, then slide the chain tensioner arm from its pivot pin on the front main bearing cap (see illustration).

6 Unbolt and remove the chain tensioner. 7 Bend back the lockplate tabs from the

camshaft sprocket bolts, then unscrew and remove the bolts. 8 Withdraw the sprocket complete with the timing chain.

Inspection

9 Examine the teeth on the timing sprockets for any signs of excessive wear or damage. 10 The timing chain should always be renewed during a major engine overhaul. Slack links and pins are indicative of a worn chain. Unless the chain is known to be relatively new, it should be renewed. 11 Examine the rubber cushion on the tensioner spring leaf. If grooved or deteriorated, it must be renewed.

Refitting

12 Commence reassembly by bolting the timing chain tensioner into position. Check that the face of the tensioner cam is parallel with the face of the cylinder block, ideally using a dial gauge. The maximum permissible error between the two measuring points is 0.2 mm. Release and turn the timing chain tensioner as required to achieve this (if necessary). Refer to the Specifications for the correct tightening torque. 13 Turn the crankshaft so that the timing mark on its sprocket is directly in line with the centre of the camshaft sprocket mounting flange. 14 Engage the camshaft sprocket with the timing chain, then engage the chain around

the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. Push the camshaft sprocket onto its mounting flange, and check that the sprocket retaining bolt holes are in alignment. Also check that the timing marks of both sprockets face each other. If required, turn the camshaft/sprocket as required to achieve this. It may also be necessary to remove the camshaft from the chain in order to reposition it in the required location in the chain to align the timing marks. This is a “trial and error” procedure, which must be continued until the exact alignment of the bolt holes and the timing marks is made

(see illustrations). 15 Insert and tighten the camshaft sprocket

retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. Bend up the tabs of the new lockplate to secure (see illustration). 16 Retract the timing chain tensioner cam, and then slide the tensioner arm onto its pivot pin. Release the cam so that it bears on the arm. 17 Refit the oil slinger to the front of the crankshaft sprocket so that its convex side faces the sprocket. 18 Refit the timing chain cover as described in the previous Section. 19 Refit the sump as described in Section 14. Top-up the engine oil level as described in Chapter 1.

20 Reconnect the battery. 21 When the engine is restarted, check for

any sign of oil or coolant leaks from the sump and water pump (if disturbed).

2A•8 HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures

13.15 Bend locktabs against the camshaft retaining bolt heads to secure

13.14B . . . and check that the timing

marks on the sprockets are in alignment

13.14A Fit the timing chain to the

crankshaft and camshaft sprockets . . .

13.5 Chain tensioner arm removal from the pivot pin. Note tensioner retaining

bolts (arrowed)

13.4 Oil slinger removal from crankshaft12.7 Fitting the timing chain cover.

Crankshaft pulley used as aid to centring

14 Sump - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Refer Chapter 1 and drain the engine oil. Refit the sump drain plug. 3 Undo the retaining nuts and detach the exhaust downpipe from the manifold flange. Note that the flange gasket should be renewed on reassembly. Allowing sufficient clearance for sump removal, tie the exhaust downpipe up with a suitable length of wire or cord to prevent the system straining the insulators. On catalytic converter-equipped vehicles, avoid straining the oxygen sensor wiring, where applicable; if necessary, disconnect the sensor’s multi-plug.

4 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5). 5 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove

the clutch housing cover plate. 6 Undo the eighteen bolts securing the sump to the base of the engine crankcase, then prise free and lower the sump. If the sump is stuck tight to the engine, cut around the flange gasket with a sharp knife, then lightly tap and prise it free. Keep the sump upright as it is lowered, to prevent spillage of any remaining oil in it. Also be prepared for oil drips from the crankcase when the sump is removed. 7 Remove any dirt and old gasket from the contact faces of the sump and crankcase, and wash the sump out thoroughly before refitting. Check that the mating faces of the sump are not distorted. Check that the oil pick-up strainer is clear, cleaning it if necessary.

Refitting

8 Remove the old gaskets from the timing chain cover end, and from the flywheel end, and clean their location faces. Apply a dab of sealing compound to the mating faces where the ends of each cork half-gasket are to be fitted (see illustration). Stick the new cork gaskets into position on the block face, using clean thick grease to retain them, then locate

the new rubber gaskets into their slots in the timing chain cover and rear oil seal carrier. The lugs of the cork gasket halves fit under the cut-outs in the rubber gaskets (see

illustration). 9 Before offering up the sump, check that the

gap between the sump and the oil baffle is between 2.0 and 3.8 mm (see illustration). Do not use a dented or damaged sump, as the indicated dimension is important for correct engine lubrication. 10 Fit the sump into position, and fit the retaining bolts. Initially tighten them all fingertight, then further tighten them in the sequence shown through Stages 1 and 2, to the torque wrench settings specified (see illustration). Note that different tightening sequences are specified for the tightening stages. Final (Stage 3) tightening is carried out after the engine has been started and warmed up. 11 Refit the lower plate to the front face of the clutch housing.

12 Refit the starter motor. 13 Check that the downpipe and manifold

mating faces are clean, then locate a new gasket and reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the manifold. Where applicable, use new self-locking nuts, and tighten securely. 14 Check that the sump drain plug is fitted and tightened to the specified torque, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

15 Top-up the oil level in the sump as described in Chapter 1 (taking care not to over-fill). 16 Reconnect the battery, then start the engine and run it up to its normal operating temperature. Check that no oil leaks are evident around the sump joint. 17 After the engine has warmed up for approximately 15 minutes, switch it off. Tighten the sump bolts to the Stage 3 torque wrench setting given in the Specifications, in the sequence shown in illustration 14.10.

15 Oil pump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 The oil pump is externally-mounted, on the rear-facing side of the crankcase. 2 Apply the handbrake, then raise and support the vehicle at the front end on axle stands, allowing sufficient working clearance underneath. 3 Unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge. It should unscrew by hand, but will probably be tight. Use a strap wrench to loosen it off, if required. Catch any oil spillage in a suitable container. 4 Undo the three retaining bolts and withdraw the oil pump from the engine (see illustration).

HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•9

14.9 Sump (A) and oil baffle (B) clearance details

14.8B Lugs of cork gasket halves to fit

under the cut-outs in the rubber gaskets

14.8A Sump gasket fitting details at the

timing chain cover end (A) and the flywheel

end (B)

15.4 Unscrewing the oil pump retaining bolts

14.10 Sump bolt tightening sequence -

arrow indicates crankshaft pulley end of

engine

Refer to Specifications for torque wrench settings Stage 1 - Tighten in alphabetical order Stage 2 - Tighten in numerical order Stage 3 - Tighten in alphabetical order

5 Clean all traces of the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the pump and engine.

Refitting

6 If the original oil pump has been dismantled and reassembled and is to be re-used, or if a new pump is to be fitted, it must first be primed with engine oil prior to fitting. To do this, turn its driveshaft and simultaneously inject clean engine oil into it. 7 Locate a new gasket into position on the pump mounting flange, then insert the pump, engaging the drivegear as it is fitted (see illustration). Fit the retaining bolts, and tighten to the specified torque wrench setting. 8 Fit a new oil filter into position on the oil pump body, as described in Chapter 1. 9 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and topup the engine oil level to replenish that lost during the previous operations.

16 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

Dismantling

1 To inspect the oil pump components for excessive wear, undo the retaining bolts and remove the cover plate from the pump body. Remove the O-ring seal from the cover face

(see illustration). 2 Wipe the exterior of the pump housing

clean housing.

Inspection

3 Noting their orientation, extract and clean the rotors and the inner body of the pump housing. Inspect them for signs of severe scoring or excessive wear, which if evident will necessitate renewal of the complete pump. 4 Using feeler gauges, check the clearances between the pump body and the outer rotor, the inner-to-outer rotor clearance, and the amount of rotor endfloat (see illustrations). 5 Check the drivegear for signs of excessive wear or damage. 6 If the clearances measured are outside the specified maximum clearances and/or the drivegear is in poor condition, the complete pump unit must be renewed.

Reassembly

7 Refit the rotors into the pump (in their original orientation), lubricate the rotors and the new O-ring seal with clean engine oil, and refit the cover. Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

17 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

Front oil seal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Apply the handbrake, then raise the vehicle at the front end and support it on axle stands.

3 Refer to Section 11 for details and remove the crankshaft pulley. 4 Using a suitable claw tool, extract the oil seal from the timing chain cover, but take care not to damage the seal housing. As it is removed, note the fitted orientation of the seal in the cover. 5 Clean the oil seal housing in the timing chain cover. Lubricate the sealing lips of the new seal and the crankshaft stub with clean engine oil. 6 Locate the new seal into position so that it is squarely located on the crankshaft stub and in the housing, and is correctly orientated. Drift it initially into position by fitting a temporary distance piece against the seal, then draw it fully home by refitting the crankshaft pulley and retaining bolt. 7 When the seal is fully fitted, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, pulley and distance piece. 8 Lightly lubricate the rubbing surface of the pulley, then refit the pulley as described in Section 11.

Rear oil seal

9 Remove the flywheel as described in Section 19. 10 Using a suitable claw tool, lever the seal from the rear seal housing (taking care not to damage the housing). As it is removed, note the fitted orientation of the seal. 11 Clean the seal housing, the crankshaft rear flange face and the flywheel mating surface. 12 One of two possible methods may be used to insert the new oil seal, depending on the tools available. 13 If Ford service tool No 21-011 is available, lubricate the crankshaft flange and the oil seal inner lip with clean engine oil. Position the seal onto the service tool (ensuring correct orientation), then press the seal into its housing. 14 If the service tool is not available, remove the engine sump (Section 14), then unscrew the Torx-head bolts retaining the rear seal housing in position, and remove the seal housing from the rear face of the cylinder block. New gaskets will be required for both the seal housing and the sump when refitting.

2A•10 HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures

16.4C Checking the rotor endfloat16.4B Checking the inner rotor-to-outer

rotor clearance

16.4A Checking the outer body-to-rotor clearance

16.1 Extract the O-ring from the groove in the oil pump

15.7 Refitting the oil pump. Note the new gasket

Clean the seal housing seat and the mating surfaces of the sump and the crankcase. To fit the seal squarely into its housing without damaging either component, place a flat block of wood across the seal, then carefully tap the seal into position in the housing. Do not allow the seal to tilt as it is being fitted. Lubricate the crankshaft flange and the oil seal inner lip with clean engine oil, then with a new gasket located on the seal housing/crankcase face, fit the housing into position. Take care not damage the seal lips as it is passed over the crankshaft rear flange (see illustrations). Centralise the seal on the shaft, then insert and tighten the housing retaining bolts to the specified torque setting. Refit the sump with reference to Section 14. 15 Check that the crankshaft rear flange and the flywheel mating faces are clean, then refit the flywheel as described in Section 19.

18 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and

renewal

Inspection

1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated mountings should be renewed immediately, or the added strain placed on the driveline components may cause damage or wear. 2 During the check, the engine/transmission must be raised slightly, to remove its weight from the mountings. 3 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Position a jack under the sump, with a large block of wood between the jack head and the sump, then carefully raise the engine/transmission just enough to take the weight off the mountings. 4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal components. Sometimes, the rubber will split right down the centre. 5 Check for relative movement between each mounting’s brackets and the engine/ transmission or body (use a large screwdriver

or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If movement is noted, lower the engine and check-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

6 The engine mountings can be removed if the weight of the engine/transmission is

supported by one of the following alternative methods. 7 Either support the weight of the assembly from underneath using a jack and a suitable piece of wood between the jack saddle and the sump (to prevent damage), or from above by attaching a hoist to the engine. A third method is to use a suitable support bar with end pieces which will engage in the water channel each side of the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable hook and chain connected to the engine, the weight of the engine and transmission can then be taken from the mountings. 8 Once the weight of the engine and transmission is suitably supported, any of the mountings can be unbolted and removed. The accompanying illustrations show the mountings and their attachments, and should be used for reference (see illustrations). As the mountings are disconnected and removed, note the location and orientation of the fixings and any associated fittings.

HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•11

17.14B Fitting the rear oil seal housing

with a new gasket in position on the rear

face of the cylinder block

17.14A Positioning the crankshaft rear oil seal in its housing

18.8A Right-hand engine mounting components

1 Insulator 2 Reinforcement

plate

3 Mounting bracket 4 Support 5 Bolt and washer

6 Bolt 7 Bolt 8 Self-locking nut

9 Self-locking nut

10 Insulator

9 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of the removal procedure. Ensure that the original sequence of washers and associated fittings are correctly fitted. 10 Do not fully tighten the mounting fasteners until all of the mountings are in position. Check that the mounting rubbers do not twist or distort as the mounting bolts and nuts are tightened to their specified torque wrench settings.

19 Flywheel - removal,

inspection and refitting

Refitting

1 Remove the transmission as described in Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch as described in Chapter 8. 2 Unscrew the six retaining bolts, and remove

the flywheel from the rear end flange of the crankshaft - take care not to drop the flywheel, as it is heavy. A tool similar to that shown in illustration 19.5 can be fitted to prevent the flywheel/crankshaft from rotating as the bolts are removed. If on removal the retaining bolts are found to be in poor condition (stretched threads, etc) they must be renewed.

Inspection

3 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheel for any broken or excessively-worn teeth. If evident, the ring gear must be renewed; this is a task best entrusted to a Ford dealer or a competent garage. Alternatively, it may be cheaper to obtain a complete flywheel from a car breaker. 4 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel must be carefully inspected for grooving or hairline cracks (caused by overheating). If these conditions are evident, it may be possible to have the flywheel surface-ground to renovate it, providing that the balance is not upset. Regrinding is a task for an automotive engineer. If surface-grinding is not possible, the flywheel must be renewed.

Refitting

5 Check that the mating faces of the flywheel and the crankshaft are clean before refitting. Lubricate the threads of the retaining bolts with engine oil before they are screwed into position. Locate the flywheel onto the crankshaft, and insert the bolts. Hand-tighten them initially, then tighten them in a progressive sequence to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). 6 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.

2A•12 HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures

19.5 Tightening the flywheel retaining bolts to the specified torque

Note the “peg” tool jamming the ring gear

teeth to prevent the flywheel/crankshaft from

rotating.

18.8B Left-hand engine/transmission mounting components

1 Engine support

insulator

2 Mounting bracket

3 Bracket 4 Support stay 5 Support stay

6 Retainer 7 Bolt and washer 8 Self-locking nut

9 Engine support

bracket

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line overhead camshaft

Engine code:

1.4 litre engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FUH

CFi fuel-injected models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F6F

1.6 litre engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LUK, LUJ

EFi fuel-injected models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LJE, LJF

Capacity:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1392 cc

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1596 cc

Bore:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.42 mm

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.96 mm

Stroke:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.30 mm

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.52 mm

Compression ratio:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5:1

1.6 litre engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1

EFi fuel-injected models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.75:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Chapter 2 Part B:

CVH engine - in-car engine repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Camshaft, rocker arms and tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and

inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Engine/transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Exhaust manifold - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 20

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3

2B•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Cylinder head

Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.235 to 22.265 mm

Camshaft

Camshaft bearing journal diameter:

Bearing 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.75 mm

Bearing 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.00 mm

Bearing 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.25 mm

Bearing 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.50 mm

Bearing 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.75 mm

Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . 0.033 to 0.058 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.13 mm

Camshaft thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.99 to 5.01 mm

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Oil pressure:

Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 bars

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mm

Inner rotor-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.18 mm

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.100 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 8

Oil pump pick-up to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 23 12 to 17

Oil pump pick-up to pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 8

Oil cooler threaded sleeve to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 60 40 to 44

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21

Rear oil seal housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 to 92 60 to 68

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 40 25 to 30

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 60 30 to 44

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 to 115 74 to 85

Camshaft thrust plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

Camshaft toothed belt sprocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 to 59 40 to 44

Timing belt tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 20 12 to 15

Rocker studs in cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 23 13 to 17

Rocker arms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 29 18 to 21

Rocker cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 20 12 to 15

Exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 17 10 to 12

Timing belt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 7 to 8

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 22 13 to 16

Note:

Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2B•2 CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the vehicle, and includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Similar information concerning the 1.3 litre HCS engine, and on the 1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines, will be found in Parts A and C of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures

are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

General description CVH engine

The 1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (Compound Valve angle, Hemispherical combustion chambers)

engines are of four-cylinder, in-line, overhead camshaft type, mounted transversely together with the transmission at the front of the vehicle (see illustration).

The crankshaft is supported in five splitshell type main bearings within the cast-iron crankcase. The connecting rod big-end bearings are split-shell type, and the pistons are attached by interference-fit gudgeon pins. Each piston has two compression rings and one oil control ring.

The cylinder head is of light alloy construction, and supports the camshaft in five bearings. Camshaft drive is by a toothed composite rubber timing belt, which is driven

by a sprocket on the front end of the crankshaft. The timing belt also drives the water pump, which is mounted below the cylinder head.

Hydraulic cam followers (tappets) operate the rocker arms and valves (see illustration). The tappets are operated by pressurised engine oil. When a valve closes, the oil passes through a port in the body of the cam follower, through four grooves in the plunger and into the cylinder feed chamber. From the chamber, the oil flows to a ball-type nonreturn valve and into the pressure chamber. The tension of the coil spring causes the plunger to press against the valve, and so eliminates any free play. As the cam lifts the follower, the oil pressure in the pressure chamber is increased, and the non-return valve closes off the port feed chamber. This in turn provides a rigid link between the cam follower, the cylinder and the plunger. These then rise as a unit to open the valve. The cam follower-to-cylinder clearance allows the specified quantity of oil to pass from the pressure chamber, oil only being allowed past the cylinder bore when the pressure is high during the moment of the valve opening. When the valve closes, the escape of oil will produce a small clearance, and no pressure will exist in the pressure chamber. The feed chamber oil then flows through the non-return valve and into the pressure chamber, so that the cam follower cylinder can be raised by the pressure of the coil spring, eliminating free play until the valve is operated again.

As wear occurs between the rocker arm and the valve stem, the quantity of oil that flows into the pressure chamber will be slightly more than the quantity lost during the expansion cycle of the cam follower.

Conversely, when the cam follower is compressed by the expansion of the valve, a slightly smaller quantity of oil will flow into the pressure chamber than was lost.

A rotor-type oil pump is mounted on the timing cover end of the engine, and is driven by a gear on the front end of the crankshaft (see illustration). A full-flow type oil filter is fitted, and is mounted on the side of the crankcase.

Valve clearances - general

It is necessary for a clearance to exist between the tip of each valve stem and the valve operating mechanism, to allow for the expansion of the various components as the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

On most older engine designs, this meant that the valve clearances (also known as “tappet” clearances) had to be checked and adjusted regularly. If the clearances were allowed to be too slack, the engine would be very noisy, its power output would suffer, and its fuel consumption would increase. If the clearances were allowed to be too tight, the engine’s power output would be reduced, and the valves and their seats could be severely damaged.

The CVH engine employs hydraulic tappets which use the lubricating system’s oil pressure automatically to take up the clearance between each camshaft lobe and its respective valve stem. Therefore, there is no need for regular checking and adjustment of the valve clearances. However, it is essential that only good-quality oil of the recommended viscosity and specification is used in the engine, and that this oil is always changed at the recommended intervals. If this

advice is not followed, the oilways and tappets may become clogged with particles of dirt, or deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil, so that the system cannot work properly; ultimately, one or more of the tappets may fail, and expensive repairs may be required.

On starting the engine from cold, there will be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds up in all parts of the engine, especially in the tappets; the valve components, therefore, may well “rattle” for about 10 seconds or so, and then quieten. This is a normal state of affairs, and is nothing to worry about,

CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2B•3

1.6 Sectional views showing operation of the hydraulic tappets

A Valve closed B Valve open C Plunger

D Cylinder E Feed chamber F Non-return valve

G Coil spring H Pressure chamber J Body

1.3 Cutaway view of the CVH engine

1.8 CVH engine lubrication circuit

provided that all tappets quieten quickly and stay quiet.

After the vehicle has been standing for several days, the valve components may “rattle” for longer than usual, as nearly all the oil will have drained away from the engine’s top-end components and bearing surfaces. While this is only to be expected, care must be taken not to damage the engine under these circumstances - avoid high-speed running until all the tappets are refilled with oil and operating normally. With the vehicle stationary, hold the engine at no more than a fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm) for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the noise ceases. Do not run the engine at more than 3000 rpm until the tappets are fully recharged with oil and the noise has ceased.

If the valve components are thought to be noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the top end after the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature, take the vehicle to a Ford dealer for expert advice. Depending on the mileage covered and the usage to which each vehicle has been put, some vehicles may be noisier than others; only a good mechanic experienced in these engines can tell if the noise level is typical for the vehicle’s mileage, or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet’s operation is faulty, it must be renewed (Section 13).

2 Repair operations possible

with the engine in the vehicle

The following major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle:

a) Compression pressure - testing. b) Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and

refitting.

c) Timing belt - removal, refitting and

adjustment. d) Camshaft oil seal - renewal. e) Camshaft - removal and refitting. f) Cylinder head - removal and refitting. g) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. h) Sump - removal and refitting. i) Pistons/connecting rods - removal and

refitting. j) Flywheel - removal, inspection and

refitting. k) Engine/transmission mountings - removal

and refitting.

Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with a suitable degreasant before any work is done. It will make the job easier, and will help to keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the bonnet, to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary). Cover the front wings, to prevent damage to the paint; special covers are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work.

Since the cylinder head can be removed without lifting out the engine, camshaft and valve component servicing can also be accomplished with the engine in the vehicle, as can renewal of the timing belt and toothed pulleys.

3 Compression test -

description and interpretation

Refer to Section 3 in Part A of this Chapter.

4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

No 1 piston - locating

on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine. Proceed as follows. 2 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove the upper timing belt cover. 3 Apply the handbrake, then raise the vehicle at the front end and support it on axle stands. 4 Undo the retaining bolts, and remove the cover from the underside of the crankshaft pulley. 5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from the pulley end) to the point where the crankshaft pulley timing notch is aligned with the TDC (0) timing mark on the timing belt cover. Turning the engine will be much easier if the spark plugs are removed first (see Chapter 1). 6 Although the crankshaft is now in top dead centre alignment, with piston Nos 1 and 4 at the top of their stroke, the No 1 piston may not be on its compression stroke. To confirm that it is, check that the timing pointer on the camshaft sprocket is exactly aligned with the TDC mark on the front face of the cylinder head (see illustrations). If the pointer is not aligned, turn the crankshaft pulley one further complete turn, and all the markings should now align. 7 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC compression, refit the crankshaft pulley cover, lower the vehicle and refit the upper timing belt cover.

5 Cylinder head rocker cover -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 On 1.4 litre engines, and 1.6 litre carburettor engines, remove the air cleaner unit as described in Chapter 4. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the rocker cover. 3 On 1.6 litre EFi engines, disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, then detach them

2B•4 CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures

4.6B Camshaft sprocket timing mark

aligned with the TDC mark on the front

face of the cylinder head

4.6A Crankshaft pulley notch (arrowed) aligned with the TDC (0) mark on the

timing belt cover

from the air inlet duct and the rocker cover. Position them out of the way. Loosen off the retaining clips, and detach the air inlet hose and the breather hose from the air inlet duct. Also detach the crankcase breather hose from the rocker cover. Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove the air inlet duct from the top of the rocker cover (see illustration). 4 Undo the two bolts retaining the upper half of the timing belt cover, and remove it. 5 Referring to Chapter 4 for details, disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage and from the adjuster bracket above the rocker cover. Position the cable out of the way. 6 Where applicable, disconnect the choke cable from the carburettor, referring to Chapter 4 for details. 7 Unscrew and remove the rocker cover retaining bolts and washers, then lift the cover from the cylinder head. Note that a new rocker cover gasket will be needed on refitting.

Refitting

8 Before refitting the rocker cover, clean the mating surfaces of both the cylinder head and the cover. 9 Locate the new gasket in position, then fit the cover retaining bolts and washers. Ensure that the grooves in the plate washers are facing upwards as they are fitted (see illustrations). Tighten the cover retaining

bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. Refer to Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the accelerator cable, choke cable, air inlet duct and air cleaner (as applicable). 10 Refit the timing belt cover and reconnect the battery earth lead.

6 Inlet manifold -

removal and refitting

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra

precautions when disconnecting any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. Don’t work in a garage where a natural gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy, and know how to use it.

Removal

1 A single-piece cast-aluminium inlet manifold is used on all CVH engines except

1.6 EFi models, which have a two-piece manifold comprising an upper and lower section bolted together. 2 On CFi and EFi models, depressurise the fuel system as described in Chapter 4.

3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 4 Remove the carburettor or CFi unit (as applicable) as described in Chapter 4. 5 On EFi models, remove the air inlet duct and disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage (see Chapter 4). 6 On EFi models, remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail (see Chapter 4). 7 Noting their locations, disconnect the coolant, vacuum and breather hoses from the manifold. 8 Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from the engine sensors at the inlet manifold. 9 Undo the retaining bolts, and withdraw the manifold from the cylinder head. Note the location of the engine lifting bracket and earth lead, where fitted (see illustration). Remove the gasket. 10 With the manifold removed, clean all traces of the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the manifold and the cylinder head.

Refitting

11 Refitting is the reversal of removal. Use a new gasket, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque (see illustration). Refit the remainder of the components with reference to the appropriate Chapters of this manual.

7 Exhaust manifold - removal,

inspection and refitting

Note: Never work on or near a hot exhaust system and in particular, the catalytic converter (where fitted).

Removal

1 The exhaust manifold is secured to the cylinder head by studs and nuts, and is similarly attached to the exhaust downpipe. A metal shroud is bolted to the manifold, to direct exhaust-heated air into the air inlet system when the engine is cold. Access to the exhaust manifold retaining nuts is

CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2B•5

5.9B Rocker cover retaining bolts and plate washers

5.9A Fitting a new gasket to the rocker cover

5.3 Air inlet duct-to-rocker cover attachment bolt on 1.6 litre EFi

fuel-injected engine

6.11 Always use a new gasket (arrowed) when refitting the inlet manifold

6.9 Inlet manifold retaining bolt securing the engine lifting bracket and earth lead

gained by first removing the shroud (see illustrations). 2 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air

system, remove the pulse-air piping as described in Chapter 6. 3 Support the exhaust downpipe on a jack or suitable blocks, and undo the down pipe-tomanifold retaining nuts. Separate the pipe from the manifold, and remove the gasket. On catalytic converter-equipped vehicles, take care not to stretch the oxygen sensor wiring, where applicable; if necessary, disconnect the sensor’s multi-plug. 4 Undo the retaining nuts and withdraw the manifold from the cylinder head studs (see illustration). Remove the manifold gasket.

Inspection

5 Use a scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and carbon deposits from the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. If the gasket was leaking, have the manifold checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop, and have it resurfaced if necessary. 6 Provided both mating surfaces are clean and flat, a new gasket will be sufficient to ensure the joint is gastight. Do not use any kind of exhaust sealant upstream of the catalytic converter (where applicable). 7 Note that, on some models, the downpipe is secured to the manifold by two bolts, with a coil spring, spring seat and self-locking nut on each. On refitting, tighten the nuts until they stop on the bolt shoulders; the pressure of the springs will then suffice to make a gastight joint. 8 Do not overtighten the nuts to cure a leak the bolts will shear; renew the gasket and the springs if a leak is found. The bolts themselves are secured by spring clips to the manifold, and can be renewed easily if damaged.

Refitting

9 Refit the manifold in the reverse order of removal, using new gaskets throughout (see illustrations). Tighten the retaining bolts to their specified torque wrench settings - see paragraph 8 above. Ensure that all adjacent

wiring and hoses are clear of the exhaust system and manifold, and on completion check the system joints for any signs of leaks.

8 Crankshaft pulley -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Apply the handbrake, then raise the vehicle at the front end, and support it on axle stands. 3 Unbolt and remove the cover from the underside of the crankshaft pulley. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 5 If timing belt renewal is also intended, set the engine at TDC as described in Section 4 before removing the crankshaft pulley and retaining bolt. 6 To prevent the crankshaft from turning as the pulley bolt is loosened off, remove the starter motor as described in Chapter 5, and then jam the starter ring gear using a suitable lever (see illustration). 7 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and its washer. Withdraw the pulley from the front end of the crankshaft (see illustration). If necessary, lever it free using a pair of diagonally-opposed levers positioned behind the pulley.

2B•6 CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures

8.7 Crankshaft pulley removal8.6 Using a suitable bar to lock the

flywheel ring gear

7.9B . . . and manifold-to-exhaust downpipe connection

7.9A Fit a new gasket to the exhaust manifold . . .

7.4 Removing the exhaust manifold7.1B Hot-air shroud removal from the

1.6 litre EFI fuel injected engine

7.1A Removing the hot-air shroud from the 1.6 litre carburettor engine

Refitting

8 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the pulley retaining bolt to the specified torque setting, and refer to Chapter 1 for details on refitting the auxiliary drivebelt. 9 On completion, reconnect the battery earth lead.

9 Timing belt covers -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove the upper timing belt cover (see illustration). 3 Refer to the previous Section for details, and remove the crankshaft pulley. 4 Unscrew the two bolts securing the lower timing belt cover, and remove it (see illustration).

Refitting

5 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 6 On completion, reconnect the battery earth lead.

10 Timing belt - removal, refitting

and adjustment

Removal

1 Referring to the previous Sections for details, remove the rocker cover, the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt covers. 2 Check that the crankshaft is set with the No 1 piston at TDC (on its compression stroke) before proceeding. If necessary, refer to Section 4 for further details. 3 To check the timing belt for correct adjustment, proceed as described in paragraph 12 below. To remove the belt, proceed as follows. 4 Loosen off the two bolts securing the timing

belt tensioner. Using a large screwdriver, prise the tensioner to one side to release the timing belt tension. Secure the tensioner in this position by retightening the bolts (see

illustration). 5 If the original timing belt is to be refitted,

mark it for direction of travel and also the exact tooth engagement positions on all sprockets. Slip the belt from the camshaft, water pump and crankshaft sprockets (see illustration). Whilst the timing belt is removed, avoid any excessive movement of the sprockets, otherwise the piston crowns and valves may come into contact and be damaged. 6 If the belt is being removed for reasons other than routine renewal, check it carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, cracks (especially at the roots of the belt teeth) or contamination with oil or coolant. Renew the belt if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. As a safety measure, the belt must be renewed as a matter of course at the intervals given in Chapter 1; if its history is unknown, the belt should be renewed irrespective of its apparent condition whenever the engine is overhauled.

Refitting

7 Before refitting the belt, check that the crankshaft is still at the TDC position, with the small projection on the belt sprocket front flange aligned with the TDC mark on the oil pump housing (see illustration). Also ensure that the camshaft sprocket is set with its TDC

pointer aligned with the corresponding timing mark on the cylinder head. If necessary, adjust the sprockets slightly. As previously mentioned, avoid any excessive movement of the sprockets whilst the belt is removed. 8 Engage the timing belt teeth with the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the belt vertically upright on its right-hand run. Keep it taut, and engage it with the teeth of the camshaft sprocket. If the original belt is being refitted, check that the belt’s direction of travel is correct, and realign the belt-tosprocket marks made during removal, to ensure that the exact original engagement positions are retained. When the belt is fully fitted on the sprockets, check that the sprocket positions have not altered. 9 Carefully manoeuvre the belt around the tensioner, and engage its teeth with the water pump sprocket, again ensuring that the TDC positions of the crankshaft and camshaft are not disturbed as the belt is finally located. 10 Refit the lower timing belt cover, and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque setting. Refit the crankshaft pulley, and tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque setting. 11 To take up belt slack, loosen off the tensioner and move it towards the front of the car to apply an initial tension to the belt. Secure the tensioner in this position, then remove the flywheel ring gear locking device. 12 Rotate the crankshaft through two full revolutions in (the normal direction of travel), returning to the TDC position (camshaft

CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2B•7

10.4 Timing belt tensioner retaining bolts (arrowed)

9.4 Lower timing belt cover removal9.2 Upper timing belt cover removal

10.7 Sprocket and oil pump housing TDC marks in alignment

10.5 Timing belt removal

sprocket-to-cylinder head). Check that the crankshaft pulley notch is aligned with the TDC (0) mark on the lower half of the timing belt cover. 13 Grasp the belt between the thumb and forefinger, at the midway point between the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets on the right-hand side. If the belt tension is correct, it should just be possible to twist the belt through 90º at this point (see illustration). To adjust the belt, loosen off the tensioner retaining bolts, move the tensioner as required using a suitable screwdriver as a lever, then retighten the retaining bolts. Rotate the crankshaft to settle the belt, then recheck the tension. It may take two or three attempts to get the tension correct. On completion, tighten the tensioner bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 14 It should be noted that this setting is approximate, and the belt tension should be rechecked by a Ford dealer with the special tensioner-setting tool at the earliest opportunity.

15 Refit the starter motor (refer to Chapter 5). 16 Refit the rocker cover (see Section 5) and

the upper timing belt cover (see Section 9). 17 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt, adjust its tension as described in Chapter 1, then refit the crankshaft pulley lower cover. 18 Refit the air cleaner and the air inlet ducting. 19 On completion, reconnect the battery earth lead.

11 Timing belt tensioner and

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

Tensioner

1 Set the engine at TDC for No 1 piston as described in Section 4, then refer to Section 9 and remove the timing belt upper cover. 2 Loosen off the two bolts securing the timing belt tensioner. Using a large screwdriver, prise the tensioner to one side to release the timing belt tension. 3 Remove the tensioner bolts, and withdraw the tensioner from behind the timing belt.

4 Check the condition of the tensioner, ensuring that it rotates smoothly on its bearings, with no signs of roughness or excessive free play. Renew the tensioner if in doubt about its condition. 5 To refit the tensioner, first check that the engine is still positioned at TDC for No 1 piston, with both the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks correctly aligned as described in Section 4. 6 Refit the tensioner, guiding it in position around the timing belt, and secure with the two bolts. Move the tensioner towards the front of the car, to apply an initial tension to the belt. Secure the tensioner in this position. 7 Adjust the timing belt tension as described in Section 10, paragraphs 12 to 14. 8 Refit the timing belt upper cover on completion.

Camshaft sprocket

9 Set the engine at TDC for No 1 piston as described in Section 4, then refer to Section 9 and remove the timing belt upper cover. 10 Loosen off the two bolts securing the timing belt tensioner. Using a large screwdriver, prise the tensioner to one side to release the timing belt tension. Slip the timing belt off the camshaft sprocket. 11 Pass a bar through one of the holes in the camshaft sprocket to prevent the camshaft from rotating, then unscrew and remove the sprocket retaining bolt. Note that this bolt must be renewed when refitting the camshaft sprocket. Remove the sprocket, noting the Woodruff key fitted to the camshaft; if the key is loose, remove it for safekeeping. 12 Check the condition of the sprocket, inspecting carefully for any wear grooves, pitting or scoring around the teeth. 13 Install the Woodruff key, then fit the camshaft sprocket with a new retaining bolt. The threads of the bolt should be smeared with thread-locking compound prior to fitting. Tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustrations). 14 Check that the engine is still positioned at TDC for No 1 piston, with both the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks correctly aligned as described in Section 4.

15 Slip the timing belt over the camshaft sprocket, then move the tensioner towards the front of the car to apply an initial tension to the belt. Secure the tensioner in this position. 16 Adjust the timing belt tension as described in Section 10, paragraphs 12 to 14. 17 Refit the timing belt upper cover on completion.

Crankshaft sprocket

18 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 10. 19 The crankshaft sprocket can now be withdrawn. If it is a tight fit on the crankshaft, a puller or two large screwdrivers can be used to release its grip. Withdraw the thrustwasher and the Woodruff key from the crankshaft. 20 Check the condition of the sprocket, inspecting carefully for any wear grooves, pitting or scoring around the teeth. 21 Refit the thrustwasher with its curved side facing outwards, followed by the Woodruff key. 22 Lubricate the oil seal and the crankshaft sprocket with engine oil, then position the sprocket on the crankshaft with its thrust face facing outwards. 23 Using the auxiliary drivebelt pulley and its retaining bolt, draw the sprocket fully into position on the crankshaft. Remove the pulley. 24 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 10.

12 Camshaft oil seal - renewal

1 Remove the camshaft sprocket as described in the previous Section. 2 The oil seal is now accessible for removal. Note its direction of fitting, then using a suitable screwdriver or a tool with a hooked end to lever and extract the seal from its housing (but take care not to damage the housing with the tool) (see illustration). 3 Check that the housing is clean before fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of the seal and the running faces of the camshaft with clean engine oil. Carefully locate the seal

2B•8 CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures

11.13B . . . and tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque whilst retaining the

sprocket as shown

11.13A Refit the camshaft sprocket . . .10.13 Checking the tension of the timing

belt

over the camshaft, and drive it squarely into position using a suitable tube or a socket (see illustration). An alternative method of fitting is to draw it squarely into position using the old sprocket bolt and a suitable distance piece. 4 With the seal fully inserted in its housing, refit the camshaft sprocket as described in the previous Section.

13 Camshaft, rocker arms and

tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Refer to the appropriate earlier Sections in

this Chapter, and remove the timing belt upper cover and the rocker cover. 3 On carburettor models, refer to Chapter 4 and remove the fuel pump. 4 Detach, unbolt and remove the ignition coil, its support bracket and the interference capacitor from the end of the cylinder head, as described in Chapter 5. 5 Undo the retaining nuts and remove the guides, rocker arms and spacer plates (see illustrations). Keep the respective components in their original order of fitting by marking them with a piece of numbered tape, or by using a suitable sub-divided box. 6 Withdraw the hydraulic tappets, again keeping them in their original fitted sequence. The tappets should be placed in an oil bath while removed (see illustrations).

7 Unbolt and remove the lower cover beneath the crankshaft pulley, then with a spanner engaged on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft over to set the engine on TDC. Refer to Section 4 for details. 8 Remove the camshaft sprocket as described in Section 11. 9 Extract the camshaft oil seal as described in Section 12. 10 Before removing the camshaft and its thrust plate, check and take note of the amount of camshaft endfloat, using a dial gauge or feeler gauges. With the camshaft endfloat measured and noted, unscrew the two retaining bolts and then extract the camshaft thrust plate from its pocket at the front end of the cylinder head (see illustrations).

CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2B•9

13.5A Undo the rocker arm retaining nut . . .

12.3 Using a socket to tap the camshaft oil seal into place

12.2 Camshaft front oil seal removal

13.10A Undo the two retaining bolts (arrowed) . . .

13.6B Store tappets in clearly-marked

container filled with oil to prevent oil loss

13.6A Removing a hydraulic tappet

13.5D . . . and spacer plate13.5C . . . followed by the rocker arm . . .13.5B . . . withdraw the guide . . .

11 At the rear end of the cylinder head, pierce the camshaft blanking plug with a suitable tool, and then lever it out of its aperture (see illustrations). 12 Withdraw the camshaft from the cylinder head at the rear (ignition coil) end (see illustration). Take care not to damage the bearings in the cylinder head as the shaft is withdrawn.

Inspection

13 Clean and inspect the various components removed for signs of excessive wear. 14 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and lobes for damage or wear. If evident, a new camshaft will be required. 15 Compare the previously-measured camshaft endfloat with that specified. If the

endfloat is outside of the specified tolerance, the thrust plate must be renewed. 16 The camshaft bearing bore diameters in the cylinder head should be measured and checked against the tolerances specified. A suitable measuring gauge will be required for this, but if this is not available, check for excessive movement between the camshaft journals and the bearings. If the bearings are found to be unacceptably worn, a new cylinder head is the only answer, as the bearings are machined directly into the head. 17 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets are badly worn in the cylinder head bores but again, if the bores are found to be worn beyond an acceptable level, the cylinder head must be renewed. 18 If the contact surfaces of the cam lobes show signs of depression or grooving, they cannot be renovated by grinding, as the hardened surface will be removed and the overall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced. The self-adjustment point of the tappet will be exceeded as a result, so that the valve adjustment will be affected, resulting in noisy operation. Therefore, renewal of the camshaft is the only remedy in this case. 19 Inspect the rocker arm contact surfaces for excessive wear, and renew if necessary (see illustration).

Refitting

20 Refitting the camshaft and its associated components is a reversal of the removal

procedure, but note the following special points. 21 Lubricate the camshaft bearings, the camshaft and the thrust plate with clean engine oil prior to fitting them. As the camshaft is inserted, take care not to damage the bearings in the cylinder head. Refer to the Specifications for the thrust plate retaining bolt torque. When the thrust plate bolts are tightened, make a final check to ensure that the camshaft endfloat is as specified. 22 A new front oil seal must be fitted after the camshaft has been installed (see previous Section for details). It will also be necessary to insert a new blanking plug into the rear end of the cylinder head. Drive it squarely into position so that it is flush with the head (see

illustration). 23 Refer to the procedure in Section 11 when

refitting the camshaft sprocket. 24 Refit and tension the timing belt as described in Section 10. 25 Lubricate the hydraulic tappets with hypoid oil before refitting them into their original locations in the cylinder head. 26 Lubricate and refit the rocker arms and guides in their original sequence, use new nuts and tighten them to the specified torque setting (see illustration). It is essential before each rocker arm is installed and its nut tightened, that the respective cam follower is positioned at its lowest point (in contact with the cam base circle). Turn the cam (using the

2B•10 CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures

13.26 Lubricate the rocker arm assemblies as they are refitted

13.22 Driving a new blanking plug into position

13.19 Inspect the rocker arm contact points indicated for excessive wear

13.12 Withdraw the camshaft from the cylinder head

13.11B . . . and lever it out of the cylinder head

13.11A Pierce the centre of the blanking plug . . .

13.10B . . . and lift out the camshaft thrust plate

crankshaft pulley bolt) as necessary to achieve this. 27 Fit a new rocker cover gasket. To ensure that a good seal is made, check that its location groove is clear of oil, grease or any pieces of old gasket. When in position, tighten the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque setting. Ensure that the cover bolt plate washers are correctly orientated, with their grooves facing upwards. 28 Refit the remaining components with reference to the relevant Sections in this Chapter or elsewhere in the manual. 29 On completion, reconnect the battery earth lead.

14 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. Don’t work in a garage where a natural gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy, and know how to use it.

Removal

1 On fuel-injected engines, depressurise the fuel system as described in Chapter 4. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 3 Whenever you disconnect any vacuum lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring loom connectors, earth straps and fuel lines as part of the following procedure, always label them clearly, so that they can be correctly reassembled. Masking tape and/or a

touch-up paint applicator work well for marking items. Take instant photos, or sketch the locations of components and brackets. 4 Remove the rocker cover as described in Section 5. 5 Loosen off the retaining clips and disconnect the upper coolant hose, the expansion tank hose and the heater hose from the thermostat housing. Also disconnect the heater hose from the inlet manifold. 6 On CFi models, disconnect the heated coolant hose from the injector unit.

7 On EFi models, disconnect the following (see illustration):

a) The MAP sensor vacuum hose from the

inlet manifold upper section.

b) The carbon canister solenoid valve

vacuum hose from the inlet manifold upper section.

c) The oil trap vacuum hose at the “T” piece

connector.

d) The brake servo vacuum hose from the

inlet manifold upper section by pressing in the clamp ring and simultaneously pulling the hose free from the connection.

e) The coolant hose from the injector

intermediate flange and at the thermostat housing.

8 Disconnect the following fuel supply/return hoses. Plug the hoses and connections, to prevent fuel spillage and the possible ingress of dirt.

a) On carburettor models, disconnect the

fuel supply hose from the pump and the return hose from the carburettor.

b) On CFi models, pull free and detach the

fuel return hose from the injection unit and the supply hose at the connector.

c) On EFi models, detach the fuel supply

hose from the fuel rail. Disconnect the return line from the fuel pressure regulator.

9 On CFi models, disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold, the MAP sensor vacuum hose from the sensor, and the carbon canister connecting hose at the injection unit (see illustration). 10 Noting their connections and routings, disconnect the following wiring connectors or multi-plugs from the following items, where applicable:

a) Temperature gauge sender unit. b) DIS ignition coil. c) Coolant temperature sensor. d) Cooling fan thermostatic switch. e) Carburettor. f) Radio earth lead. g) Road speed sensor. h) Engine wiring loom. i) Inlet air temperature sensor.

11 On CFi models, detach the throttle control motor, throttle position sensor and injector lead multi-plugs (see illustration). 12 Where still attached, disconnect the HT leads from the DIS ignition coil and the spark plugs. 13 Loosen off the timing belt tensioner retaining bolts, and move the tensioner to release the tension from the drivebelt. Support the belt, and move it clear of the camshaft sprocket. 14 Apply the handbrake, then raise the vehicle at the front end, and support it on axle stands. 15 Unscrew the retaining nuts and detach the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. Remove the gasket; note that a new one must be fitted on reassembly. Tie the downpipe up to support it. Where applicable, disconnect the pulse-air supply hose from the check valve. Noting their connections (to ensure correct reassembly), disconnect the appropriate system vacuum hoses at the PVS (three port vacuum switch) under the inlet manifold. 16 Before it is released and removed, the cylinder head must first have cooled down to room temperature (about 20ºC). 17 Unscrew the cylinder head retaining bolts progressively in the reverse order to that shown for tightening (see illustration

14.23C). The cylinder head bolts must be discarded and new bolts obtained for refitting the cylinder head. 18 Remove the cylinder head complete with its manifolds. If necessary, grip the manifolds and rock it free from the location dowels on the top face of the cylinder block. Do not

CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2B•11

14.11 Wiring connections to be detached on the 1.4 litre CFi fuel injected engine

A Coolant temperature sensor B Throttle plate control motor C Throttle position sensor D Injector

14.9 Vacuum hose to the MAP sensor (A)

and the brake servo unit (B) on the 1.4 litre

CFi fuel-injected engine

14.7 Vacuum hoses and throttle cable connections on the 1.6 litre EFi fuel

injected engine

A Hose to MAP sensor B Crankcase ventilation breather hose C Throttle cable and clip D Oil trap hose and T-piece connector E Hose to oil trap F Hose to carbon canister solenoid valve

attempt to tap it sideways or lever between the head and the block top face. 19 Remove the cylinder head gasket. This must always be renewed; it is essential that the correct type is obtained. Save the old gasket, so that the identification marks (teeth) can be used when ordering the new one (see illustration).

Refitting

20 Before refitting the cylinder head, the mating surfaces of both the head and the cylinder block must be perfectly clean, and the locating dowels must be in position. Clean the retaining bolt holes of oil. In extreme cases, it is possible for oil and coolant left in the bolt holes to crack the head due to the hydraulic effect when the bolts are inserted.

21 To prevent the possibility of the valves and pistons coming into contact as the head is fitted, turn the crankshaft over to position No 1 piston approximately 20 mm below its TDC position in the bore (see illustration). 22 Locate the cylinder head gasket on the top face of the cylinder block, locating it over the dowels. Ensure that the gasket is fitted the correct way up, as indicated by its “OBENTOP” marking (see illustrations). 23 Lower the cylinder head into position, ensuring that it fits over the locating dowels, then insert the new retaining bolts. Handtighten the bolts initially, then tighten them in the order shown in the four stages to the specified torque setting (see illustrations). After the first two stages, mark the bolt heads with a dab of quick drying paint, so that the paint spots all face the same direction. Now tighten all the bolts in the sequence to the Stage 3 setting, by tightening them through the specified angle. Finally, angle-tighten all the bolts through the Stage 4 angle. 24 If all the bolts have been tightened equally, all of the paint spots should be facing the same direction. The bolts do not require any further tightening. 25 The camshaft toothed belt pulley should be positioned so that its TDC index mark pointer is in alignment with the TDC index spot mark on the front end face of the cylinder head (see illustration 4.6B). 26 Now turn the crankshaft pulley to bring its TDC notch in alignment with the TDC (0)

indicator on the front face of the timing belt cover, taking the shortest route (not viceversa) (see illustration 4.5A). 27 Refit the timing belt over the camshaft sprocket, and then tension the belt as described in Section 10. 28 The remainder of the refitting procedures are a reversal of the removal. Refer to the appropriate Sections both in this Chapter, and in Chapters 3 and 4 for specific details when reconnecting the engine, cooling system and fuel system components. 29 On completion, check that the engine oil level is correct, and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. 30 Check that all wiring connections are securely and correctly made, and reconnect the battery on completion.

15 Sump - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1. 3 Check that the handbrake is fully applied, then raise the vehicle at the front end, and support it on axle stands. 4 On models fitted with a controlled catalytic converter, pull free the oxygen sensor lead

2B•12 CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures

14.23C Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

14.23B Insert the new cylinder head bolts

14.23A Lower the cylinder head into position

14.22B . . . and locate it over the dowels

14.22A Fit the cylinder head gasket with the “OBEN/TOP” marking upwards . . .

14.21 Position No 1 piston 20 mm down the bore

14.19 Cylinder head location dowels (A) and gasket identification teeth (B)

multi-plug, and disconnect it. If the engine has been recently run, take particular care against burning when working in the area of the catalytic converter. 5 Undo the retaining nuts, and detach the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. The flange gasket must be renewed when reconnecting. Where applicable, also detach the downpipe at the rear of the catalytic converter, and release it from the front mounting. 6 On 1.6 litre engines, undo the retaining bolts and remove the engine-to-transmission auxiliary bracing brackets (see illustrations). 7 Undo the retaining bolts, and remove the clutch cover plate from the front face of the bellhousing (see illustration). 8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining bolts and remove them. Support and lower the sump pan, taking care not to spill any oil remaining in it as it is removed (see illustration). If the sump is stuck to the base of the crankcase, prise it free using screwdriver, but take care not to damage the sump flange face. If it is really stuck in position, check first that all of the bolts are removed, then cut around the sump gasket with a sharp knife to help in freeing the joint. 9 After the sump is removed, further oil will almost certainly continue to drip down from within the crankcase, some old newspapers

positioned underneath will soak up the spillage whilst the sump is removed. 10 Clean the sump of old oil and sludge, using paraffin or a suitable engine cleaner solution. Clean any traces of old gasket and sealer from the mating faces of the sump and the crankcase.

Refitting

11 Smear a suitable sealing compound onto the junctions of the crankcase-to-oil seal carrier at the rear and the crankcase-to-oil pump housing at the front on each side (see

illustrations). 12 Insert a new rubber seal in the groove in

the rear oil seal carrier and the oil pump case. As an aid to correct sump alignment when refitting it, screw ten M6 studs into the cylinder block, in the positions circled in illustration 15.14. 13 Fit a new gasket over the studs. Fit the sump into position, ensuring that the raised spacers sit in the gasket. Insert the bolts into the available holes, and finger-tighten them only at this stage. Now remove the studs and fit the remaining bolts, again finger-tight. 14 Tighten the sump bolts in a progressive, numerical sequence to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). 15 Fit the sump drain plug with a new sealing washer, and tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting.

16 Refit the clutch cover plate.

17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe as

described in Chapter 4. 18 On completion, lower the vehicle, and fill the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1. Reconnect the battery.

16 Oil pump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 3 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 8), the timing belt covers (Section 9), the timing

CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2B•13

15.7 Removing the clutch cover plate15.6B Auxiliary bracing bracket removal

from the starter motor side of the engine -

1.6 litre engine only

15.6A Auxiliary bracing bracket-to-engine bolts (oil filter side) - 1.6 litre engine only

15.14 Sump bolt tightening sequence

A Crankshaft pulley end of engine Circled numbers indicate locations of studs for correct sump alignment (see text)

15.8 Removing the sump from the engine

15.11B Applying sealant to the oil pumpto-crankcase joint

15.11A Sealing compound application points prior to refitting the sump

A Crankcase-to-oil pump housing B Crankcase-to-rear oil seal carrier

belt, crankshaft sprocket and thrustwasher (Sections 10 and 11), and the sump (Section 15). 4 Unscrew the retaining nut/bolts and remove the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration). 5 Unbolt and withdraw the oil pump from the front face of the engine. Clean the oil pump for inspection. Refer to Section 17 for the inspection procedures. The oil seal in the oil pump housing should always be renewed (Section 18).

Refitting

6 Before refitting the oil pump and the associated fittings, clean off the respective mating faces. A new oil pump gasket must be obtained, as well as the seals and gaskets for

the other associated components to be refitted. 7 When refitting the oil pump, precautionary measures must be taken to avoid the possibility of damaging the new oil seal as it is engaged over the shoulder and onto its journal on the crankshaft. Extract the Woodruff key from the groove in the crankshaft, then cut a plastic guide which will furl over and protrude beyond the shoulder of the seal journal on the crankshaft. This will allow the seal to ride over the step, and avoid damaging the seal lip as it is pushed into position on the crankshaft. 8 If a new oil pump is being fitted or the old pump is to be re-used after cleaning and inspection, first prime the pump by squirting clean engine oil into it, and simultaneously rotating the drivegear a few times (see

illustration). 9 Align the pump gear flats with those on the

crankshaft, then fit the oil pump. Check that the sump mating faces of the oil pump and the base of the crankcase are flush each side, then tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque setting. Remove the protective guide (see illustrations). 10 Refit the oil pick-up tube to the oil pump, using a new gasket. Refer to the Specifications for the tightening torque details. 11 Slide the thrustwasher onto the front end of the crankshaft, then insert the Woodruff key into position in the groove in the crankshaft (see illustration). The key must be located with its flat edge parallel with the line of the

crankshaft, to ensure that the crankshaft sprocket slides fully into position as it is being refitted. 12 Refit the sump, crankshaft sprocket, the timing belt, timing belt cover and drivebelt pulley (as described in the appropriate earlier Sections of this Chapter). Refit and adjust the drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 13 On completion, lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery.

17 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

1 The oil pump fitted is a low-friction rotortype, driven from the front end of the crankshaft. Where a high-mileage engine is being reconditioned, it is recommended that a new oil pump is fitted. 2 To inspect the rotor assembly, first remove the pump from the engine (Section 16), then undo the retaining screws and remove the cover plate (see illustration). Remove the Oring seal. 3 Clean the rotors and the inside of the pump housing, then visually inspect the various components for signs of excessive wear and scoring. Check the pump components for wear using feeler gauges in the same manner as that described in Part A of this Chapter, Section 16. Refer to the accompanying illustrations, and to the Specifications Section at the start of Part B (see illustrations).

2B•14 CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures

17.3A Outer rotor-to-oil pump body clearance check

17.2 Oil pump cover plate retaining screws (arrowed)

16.11 Locating the Woodruff key into the groove in the crankshaft

16.9B With the oil pump refitted, remove

the protective guide (arrowed)

16.9A Refit the oil pump16.8 Prime the oil pump prior to fitting16.4 Removing the oil inlet pipe

4 When reassembling the pump, ensure that

the inner (driving) and outer (driven) rotors are located with the corresponding indented matchmarks facing the same way (see

illustration).

18 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

Front oil seal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Apply the handbrake, then raise the vehicle at the front end, and support it on axle stands. 3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 4 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 8), the timing belt covers (Section 9), the timing belt (Section 10) and crankshaft sprocket, Woodruff key and thrustwasher (Section 11). 5 The oil seal is now accessible for removal from the front face of the oil pump housing (see illustration). To withdraw the seal, a hooked tool will be required; if available, use Ford special tool No 21-096. Take care not to damage the oil pump housing during removal. As it is removed, note the fitted orientation of the seal in its housing. 6 Clean the oil pump housing and the crankshaft stub, then lubricate the lips of the new seal and the crankshaft front stub with clean engine oil.

7 The oil seal should be drawn into position using the Ford special tool No 21-093A. Failing this, use a tube of suitable diameter, with the crankshaft pulley bolt and washers. Do not hammer the seal into position. To protect the seal lips as it is fitted onto the crankshaft, cut a thin sheet of plastic to suit and furl it round the front of the crankshaft, over the journal shoulder (see illus-

tration 17.18 in Part C of this Chapter). 8 When the seal is fully fitted, remove the

special tool (or fabricated tool) and withdraw the plastic protector. Check that the crankshaft is still at the TDC position and refit the Woodruff key, thrustwasher and sprocket. Refit and tension the timing belt, then refit the timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley as described in the appropriate Sections earlier in this Chapter. 9 Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 10 On completion, lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery.

Rear oil seal

11 With the engine or transmission removed from the vehicle for access, remove the clutch as described in Chapter 8. 12 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 20. 13 If available, use Ford tool No 21-151 or a suitable clawed tool to extract the seal from its housing. If the seal housing is removed from the rear face of the engine, the seal can

be removed as described in paragraph 18. As it is removed, note the direction of fitting, and take care not to damage the seal housing as the seal is extracted. 14 Clean the seal housing, the crankshaft rear flange face, and the flywheel/driveplate mating surfaces. 15 One of two possible methods may be used to insert the new oil seal, depending on the tools available. 16 If Ford special service tool No 21-095 is available, lubricate the seal lips of the seal and its running face on the crankshaft with clean engine oil. Position the seal (correctly orientated) into the special tool, then draw the seal into the housing using two flywheel/driveplate securing bolts so that the seal is against the stop. 17 If the correct Ford service tool is not available, it will be necessary to remove the oil seal carrier housing. To do this, first remove the sump as described in Section 15, then unscrew the seal housing retaining bolts and remove the housing from the rear face of the crankcase. 18 Drive the old seal from the housing by carefully tapping it from its aperture using a suitable punch as shown (see illustration). As it is removed, note the direction of fitting, and take care not to damage the seal housing as the seal is extracted. 19 New gaskets will be required for the seal housing and sump during reassembly. Clean the mating faces of the seal housing, the crankcase and sump. Insert the new seal

CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2B•15

17.4 Inner and outer rotor matchmarks (arrowed)

17.3C Rotor endfloat check17.3B Outer-to-inner rotor clearance

check

18.19 Rear oil seal installation - housing mounted in a vice with protected jaws

18.18 Rear oil seal removal18.5 Crankshaft front oil seal - seen from

below (arrowed)

squarely into its housing. To avoid damaging the seal or the housing, place a flat piece of wood across the face of the seal, and carefully tap or draw the seal into place (see illustration). Do not allow the seal to tilt in the housing as it is being fitted. 20 Lubricate the running surface on the crankshaft and the oil seal lip with clean engine oil. Locate a new gasket onto the rear face of the crankcase, and refit the oil seal housing and seal. To avoid damaging the lips of the seal as it is passed over the end of the crankshaft, cut a thin sheet of plastic to suit and furl it round the rear flange of the crankshaft so that it protrudes, and press the seal over it. With the seal in position, withdraw the plastic protector. Centralise the seal on the shaft, check that the housing-to-sump flange faces are flush to the sump face on the

base of the crankcase, then insert and tighten the housing retaining bolts to the specified torque. 21 Refit the sump with reference to Section 15. 22 Refit the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 20.

23 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 8. 24 Refit the engine or transmission, as

applicable.

19 Engine/transmission

mountings - renewal

The procedures for renewing the engine/transmission mountings on the CVH engine are much the same as those described for the HCS engine in Part A of this Chapter. Refer to Part A for details.

20 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Access to the flywheel (manual transmission) or driveplate (automatic transmission) is gained by first removing the transmission (Chapter 7). On manual transmission models, remove the clutch (Chapter 8).

2 Unscrew and remove the six flywheel/driveplate retaining bolts (see illustration), and carefully withdraw the flywheel/driveplate from the rear face of the crankshaft. Take care not to drop the flywheel, as it is heavy. Note that the retaining bolts must be renewed when refitting.

Inspection

3 The inspection procedures for the flywheel/driveplate are the same as those described for the HCS engine in Part A of this Chapter, but note that the grinding procedures do not apply to automatic transmission models (the driveplate cannot be reground).

Refitting

4 Check that the mating faces of the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft are clean before refitting. 5 Smear the new retaining bolt threads with thread-locking compound. Fit the flywheel/driveplate into position on the rear end face of the crankshaft. Check that all of the bolt holes in the flywheel/driveplate are in exact alignment with the corresponding bolt holes in the crankshaft, then insert the bolts and tighten them in a progressive sequence to the specified torque wrench setting. 6 Refit the clutch (manual transmission models) as described in Chapter 8. 7 Refit the transmission (according to type) as described in Chapter 7.

2B•16 CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures

20.2 Flywheel retaining bolts

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshafts

Engine code:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LIE

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RDA, RQB

Capacity:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1597 cc

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 cc

Bore:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.0 mm

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.6 mm

Stroke - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.0 mm

Compression ratio:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3:1

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Cylinder head

Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.395 to 28.425 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets

Camshaft bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.960 to 25.980 mm

Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.070 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.080 to 0.220 mm

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Oil pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No information available at time of writing

Oil pump clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No information available at time of writing

Chapter 2 Part C:

Zetec engine - in-car engine repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and

inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 19

Exhaust manifold - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 18

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3

2C•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Cylinder head cover bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1.5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Camshaft toothed pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50

Camshaft bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 105º

Timing belt cover fasteners:

Upper-to-middle (outer) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Cover-to-cylinder head or block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Cover studs-to-cylinder head or block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 6.5 to 8

Timing belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28

Timing belt tensioner backplate locating peg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Timing belt guide pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30

Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35

Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35

Cylinder head support plates:

Front plate Torx screws - to power steering pump/air conditioning

compressor mounting bracket and cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35

Rear plate/engine lifting eye to alternator mounting

bracket and cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35

Front engine lifting eye bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Inlet and exhaust manifold studs-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 maximum 7 maximum

Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts:

Shield-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Shield/dipstick tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Shield/coolant pipe-to-manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Air conditioning refrigerant pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 to 115 80 to 85

Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil baffle/pump pick-up pipe nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Oil filter adapter-to-pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 25 13 to 18

Oil pressure warning light switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 22 15 to 16

Coolant pipe-to-sump bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Flywheel/driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 112 81 to 83

Crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Note:

Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2C•2 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the vehicle, and includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Similar information concerning the 1.3 litre HCS engine, and the 1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH engines, will be found in Parts A and B of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and

mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

General description Zetec engine

The Zetec engine, (formerly Zeta), is of sixteen-valve, double overhead camshaft (DOHC), four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with the (clutch and) transmission on its left-hand end (see illustrations).

Apart from the plastic timing belt covers and the cast-iron cylinder block/crankcase, all

major engine castings are of aluminium alloy.

The crankshaft runs in five main bearings, the centre main bearing’s upper half incorporating thrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat. The connecting rods rotate on horizontally-split bearing shells at their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are an interference fit in the connecting rod smallend eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three piston rings: two compression rings and an oil control ring. After manufacture, the cylinder bores and piston skirts are measured and classified into three grades, which must be carefully matched together, to ensure the correct piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are available to permit reboring.

The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by coil springs; they operate in guides which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head, as are the valve seat inserts.

Both camshafts are driven by the same toothed timing belt, each operating eight valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets, thus eliminating the need for routine checking and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each camshaft rotates in five bearings that are linebored directly in the cylinder head and the (bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the bearing caps are not available separately from the cylinder head, and must not be interchanged with caps from another engine.

The water pump is bolted to the right-hand end of the cylinder block, inboard of the timing belt, and is driven with the power steering pump and alternator by a flat “polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley.

When working on this engine, note that Torx-type (both male and female heads) and hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are widely used; a good selection of bits, with the necessary adapters, will be required, so that these can be unscrewed without damage and, on reassembly, tightened to the torque wrench settings specified.

Lubrication is by means of an eccentricrotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil through a strainer located in the sump. The pump forces oil through an externallymounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•3

1.3B Lateral cross-section through engine

1 Inlet camshaft 2 Exhaust camshaft 3 Oil galleries 4 Exhaust port 5 Oil strainer and pick-up pipe 6 Oil baffle 7 Crankshaft 8 Piston-cooling oil jet (where fitted)

9 Inlet valve 10 Inlet port 11 Fuel injector 12 Inlet camshaft toothed pulley 13 Timing belt 14 Exhaust camshaft toothed pulley 15 Timing belt (front) guide pulley 16 Crankshaft toothed pulley - behind 17 Crankshaft pulley 18 Oil cooler (where fitted) 19 Timing belt (rear) guide pulley 20 Timing belt tensioner

1.3A Longitudinal cross-section through engine - inset showing timing belt details

1 Exhaust valve 2 Piston 3 Oil baffle

4 Oil strainer and pick-up

pipe

5 Spark plug

6 Fuel injector 7 Piston-cooling oil jets

(where fitted)

some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the main engine cooling system (see illustration).

Valve clearances - general

The Zetec engine employs hydraulic tappets which use the lubricating system’s oil pressure to automatically take up the clearance between each camshaft lobe and its respective valve stem. Therefore, there is no need for regular checking and adjustment of the valve clearances, but it is essential that only good-quality oil of the recommended viscosity and specification is used in the engine, and that this oil is always changed at the recommended intervals. If this advice is not followed, the oilways and tappets may become clogged with particles of dirt, or deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil, so that the system cannot work properly; ultimately, one or more of the tappets may fail, and expensive repairs may be required.

After the vehicle has been standing for several days, the valve components may “rattle” for longer than usual, as nearly all the oil will have drained away from the engine’s top-end components and bearing surfaces. While this is only to be expected, care must be taken not to damage the engine under these circumstances - avoid high speed running until all the tappets are refilled with oil and operating normally. With the vehicle stationary, hold the engine at no more than a fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm) for 10 to 15 seconds, or until the noise ceases. Do not run the engine at more than

3000 rpm until the tappets are fully recharged with oil and the noise has ceased.

2 Repair operations possible

with the engine in the vehicle

The following major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. However, owners should note that any operation involving the removal of the sump requires careful forethought, depending on the level of skill and the tools and facilities available; refer to the relevant text for details:

a) Compression pressure - testing. b) Cylinder head cover - removal and

refitting. c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting. d) Timing belt - renewal. e) Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys

- removal and refitting. f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal. g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets -

removal and refitting.

h) Cylinder head - removal, overhaul and

refitting.

i) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising. j) Sump - removal and refitting. k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. m) Piston/connecting rod assemblies -

removal and refitting (but see note below). n) Flywheel/driveplate - removal and

refitting. o) Engine/transmission mountings - removal

and refitting.

Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreasant before any work is done. It will

2C•4 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1.11 Engine lubrication system - inset showing longitudinal cross-section

1 Main oil gallery 2 From oil filter 3 Oil pump 4 Cylinder head

oil-retaining valve 5 Cylinder head oil gallery 6 Cylinder head oil supply 7 Oil return 8 Piston-cooling oil spray

(where fitted) 9 Oil filter - oil cooler not

shown here

make the job easier, and will help to keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the bonnet, to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary). Cover the front wings to prevent damage to the paint; special covers are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work.

3 Compression test -

description and interpretation

motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure developed in each. 7 Due to the variety of testers available, and the fluctuation in starter motor speed when cranking the engine, different readings are often obtained when carrying out the compression test. For this reason, actual compression pressure figures are not given by the manufacturer’s, but a typical reading would be in excess of 12 bars. All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any difference greater than 10% indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). Deposits on the undersides of the valve heads can also cause low compression. 8 If the pressure in any cylinder is considerably lower than the others, introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole, and repeat the test. 9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston ring wear is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to blame. 10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the others and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe or faulty hydraulic tappet could be the cause. 12 If the compression is unusually high, the combustion chambers are probably coated with carbon deposits. If this is the case, the cylinder head should be removed and decarbonised. 13 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs, reconnect the ignition system, and refit the fuel pump fuse.

4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

No 1 piston - locating

General

1 Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point in its travel up and down its cylinder bore that each piston reaches as the crankshaft rotates. While each piston reaches TDC both at the top of the compression stroke and again at

the top of the exhaust stroke, for the purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to the piston position (usually No 1 piston) at the top of its compression stroke. 2 It is useful for several servicing procedures to be able to position the engine at TDC. 3 No 1 piston and cylinder are at the righthand (timing belt) end of the engine (right- and left-hand are always quoted as seen from the driver’s seat). Note that the crankshaft rotates clockwise when viewed from the right-hand side of the vehicle.

Locating TDC

4 Remove all the spark plugs (Chapter 1). 5 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1) - unless the starter motor is to be used to turn the engine. 6 Apply the handbrake and ensure that the transmission is in neutral, then jack up the front right-hand side of the vehicle and support on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel. 7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley and timing marks. 8 It is best to rotate the crankshaft using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt; however, it is possible also to use the starter motor (switched on either by an assistant using the ignition key, or by using a remote starter switch) to bring the engine close to TDC, then finish with a spanner. If the starter is used, be sure to disconnect the battery lead immediately it is no longer required. 9 Note the two pairs of notches in the inner and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the normal direction of crankshaft rotation (clockwise, seen from the right-hand side of the vehicle) the first pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles covered in this manual, while the second pair indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of notches align with the edge of the sump mark; use a straight edge extended out from the sump if greater accuracy is required (see

illustrations). 10 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC,

one of them on the compression stroke.

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•5

4.9A Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first

pair of notches “A” - align second pair of

notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .

Remove the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360∞) clockwise until the pulley notches align again, and the lobe is pointing to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder will then be at TDC on the compression stroke. 11 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180∞ at a time and following the firing order (see Specifications). 12 An alternative method of locating TDC is to remove the cylinder head cover (see Section 5) and to rotate the crankshaft (clockwise, as described in paragraph 8 above) until the inlet valves for the cylinder concerned have opened and just closed again. Insert a length of wooden dowel (approximately 150 mm/6 in long) or similar into the spark plug hole until it rests on the piston crown, and slowly further rotate the crankshaft (taking care not to allow the dowel to be trapped in the cylinder) until the dowel stops rising - the piston is now at the top of its compression stroke, and the dowel can be removed. 13 There is a “dead” area around TDC (as the piston stops rising, pauses and then begins to descend) which makes difficult the exact

location of TDC by this method; if accuracy is required, either establish carefully the exact mid-point of the dead area, or refer to the timing marks (paragraph 9 above).

5 Cylinder head cover -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the air inlet hose and inlet duct as described in Chapter 4B. 2 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4B. 3 Remove the timing belt upper cover (see Section 9). 4 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the cylinder head cover union (see

illustration). 5 Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs

and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from the cover. 6 Working progressively, unscrew the cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then withdraw the cover (see illustration). 7 Discard the cover gasket; this must be renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that the sealing faces are undamaged, and that the rubber seal at each retaining bolt is serviceable; renew any worn or damaged seals. 8 On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder

head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates correctly in the cover grooves (see

illustration). 9 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then

insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at each bolt location (see illustration). Start all bolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket remains seated in its groove. 10 Working in a diagonal sequence from the centre outwards, and in two stages (see Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 11 Refit the HT leads, clipping them into place so that they are correctly routed; each is numbered, and can also be identified by the numbering on its respective coil terminal. 12 Reconnect the crankcase breather hose, and refit the timing belt upper cover. Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable, then refit the air inlet hose and duct (see Chapter 4B).

6 Inlet manifold -

removal and refitting

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

Removal

1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground and apply the handbrake firmly. 2 Depressurise the fuel system (see Chapter 4B). 3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

- see Chapter 5, Section 1. 4 Remove the air inlet hose and duct as described in Chapter 4B. 5 Referring to Chapter 4B if necessary,

2C•6 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

5.9 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to each cover bolt spacer, as shown

5.8 Ensure gasket is located correctly in cover groove

5.6 Removing cylinder head cover5.4 Disconnecting crankcase breather

hose from cylinder head cover union

4.9B . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater

accuracy is required

disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage (see illustrations). 6 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the cylinder head cover union. 7 Unbolt the upper part of the exhaust manifold heat shield. 8 Remove the two screws securing the wiring “rail” to the top of the manifold - this is simply so that it can be moved as required to reach the manifold bolts. Unplug their electrical connectors to disconnect the camshaft position sensor and the coolant temperature sensor, then unclip the wiring from the ignition coil bracket, and secure it to the manifold. 9 Remove the three screws securing the wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold. Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure regulator) to disconnect the wiring of the manifold components from the engine wiring loom. 10 Marking or labelling them as they are unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as follows:

a) One from the rear of the throttle housing

(only the one hose - there is no need to disconnect the second hose running to the fuel pressure regulator).

b) One from the union on the manifold’s left-

hand end (see illustration).

c) The braking system vacuum servo unit

hose (see Chapter 9 for details).

11 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel

feed and return lines connecting the engine to the chassis (see Chapter 4B). Plug or cap all open fittings. 12 Unbolt the earth lead from the cylinder head rear support plate/engine lifting eye, then unscrew the bolt securing the support plate/lifting eye. 13 Unscrew the nuts and bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder head, and withdraw it. Take care not to damage vulnerable components as the manifold assembly is manoeuvred out of the engine compartment.

Refitting

14 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:

a) When using a scraper and solvent to

remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from the manifold and cylinder head, be careful to ensure that you do not scratch or damage the mating faces of either components. If the gasket was leaking, have the mating surfaces checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop.

b) Provided the relevant mating surfaces are

clean and flat, a new gasket will be sufficient to ensure the joint is gastight. Do not use any kind of silicone-based sealant on any part of the fuel system or inlet manifold.

c) Fit a new gasket, then locate the manifold

on the head and install the nuts and bolts (see illustration).

d) Tighten the nuts/bolts in three or four

equal steps to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Work from the centre outwards, to avoid warping the manifold.

e) Refit the remaining parts in the reverse

order of removal - tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified.

f) Before starting the engine, check the

accelerator cable for correct adjustment and the throttle linkage for smooth operation.

h) When the engine is fully warmed-up,

check for signs of fuel, inlet and/or vacuum leaks.

i) Road-test the vehicle, and check for

proper operation of all disturbed components.

7 Exhaust manifold - removal,

inspection and refitting

Warning: The engine must be completely cool before beginning this procedure.

Note: In addition to the new gasket and any other parts, tools or facilities needed to carry out this operation, a new plastic guide sleeve will be required on reassembly.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

- see Chapter 5, Section 1. 2 Remove the air inlet hose and duct as described in Chapter 4B.

3 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 4 Disconnect the coolant hose and the

coolant pipe/hose from the thermostat housing; secure them clear of the working area. 5 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield, and withdraw both parts of the shield (see

illustration). 6 While the manifold can be removed with the

pulse-air system components attached unbolt the filter housing and disconnect its vacuum hose if this is to be done - it is easier

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•7

6.10 Disconnecting the vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold

6.5B . . . then release the cable adjusting clip and withdraw the cable from the

support bracket

6.5A Disconnect the end of the

accelerator cable from the throttle

linkage . . .

7.5 Exhaust manifold heat shield upper part securing bolts (arrowed)

6.14 Always renew inlet manifold gasket do not rely on sealants

to remove the pulse-air assembly first, as described in Chapter 6 (see illustration). 7 Unplug the oxygen sensor electrical connector, to avoid straining its wiring. Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold (see Chapter 4B). 8 Remove the nuts and detach the manifold and gasket (see illustration). When removing the manifold with the engine in the vehicle, additional clearance can be obtained by unscrewing the studs from the cylinder head; a female Torx-type socket will be required

(see illustration). 9 Always fit a new gasket on reassembly, to

carefully-cleaned components (see below). Do not attempt to re-use the original gasket.

Inspection

10 Use a scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and carbon deposits from the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. If the gasket was leaking, have the manifold checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop, and have it resurfaced if necessary.

Caution: When scraping, be very careful not to gouge or scratch the delicate aluminium alloy cylinder head.

11 Provided both mating surfaces are clean and flat, a new gasket will be sufficient to ensure the joint is gastight. Do not use any

kind of exhaust sealant upstream of the catalytic converter. 12 Note that the downpipe is secured to the manifold by two bolts, with a coil spring, spring seat and self-locking nut on each. On refitting, tighten the nuts until they stop on the bolt shoulders; the pressure of the springs will then suffice to make a gastight joint (see

illustrations). 13 Do not overtighten the nuts to cure a leak

- the bolts will shear; renew the gasket and the springs if a leak is found. The bolts themselves are secured by spring clips to the manifold, and can be renewed easily if damaged (see illustration).

Refitting

14 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:

a) Position a new gasket over the cylinder

head studs, and fit a new plastic guide sleeve to the stud nearest to the thermostat housing, so that the manifold will be correctly located (see illustration). Do not refit the manifold without this sleeve.

b) Refit the manifold, and finger-tighten the

mounting nuts.

c) Working from the centre out, and in three

or four equal steps, tighten the nuts to the torque wrench setting given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter.

d) Refit the remaining parts in the reverse

order of removal. Tighten all fasteners to

the specified torque wrench settings. e) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). f) Run the engine, and check for exhaust

leaks. Check the coolant level when fully

warmed-up to normal operating

temperature.

8 Crankshaft pulley -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - either remove the drivebelt completely, or just secure it clear of the crankshaft pulley, depending on the work to be carried out (see Chapter 1).

2C•8 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

7.14 Fit plastic guide sleeve to stud

(arrowed) when refitting exhaust manifold

7.13 Release spring clip to extract securing bolt from manifold, when

required

7.12B Renew exhaust system downpipeto-manifold gasket to prevent leaks

7.12A Showing exhaust downpipe-to-

manifold securing bolts - note coil spring,

and shoulder on bolt

7.8B . . . studs can be unscrewed also, if required, to provide additional working

space

7.8A Unscrew nuts (arrowed) to remove exhaust manifold . . .

7.6 Pulse-air system (sleeve nuts arrowed) need not be removed unless required -

assembly can be withdrawn with exhaust

manifold

2 If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the

timing marks align (see Section 4). 3 The crankshaft must now be locked to prevent its rotation while the pulley bolt is unscrewed. To do this, remove the starter motor (Chapter 5) and lock the starter ring gear teeth using a suitable screwdriver. 4 Unscrew the pulley bolt and remove the pulley (see illustrations). 5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure that the pulley’s keyway is aligned with the crankshaft’s locating key, and tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque wrench setting.

9 Timing belt covers -

removal and refitting

Upper cover

1 Unscrew the cover’s two mounting bolts and withdraw it. 2 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure that the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench setting specified for the bolts.

Middle cover

3 Unscrew the nut securing the power steering pipe support clip to the stud at the rear of the middle cover. Lift the power steering fluid reservoir upwards out of its mounting bracket and move it clear, as far as the hoses will allow, for access. If insufficient clearance is obtained, disconnect the fluid unions as necessary, and collect the fluid in a suitable container. Plug or cover any disconnected unions.

4 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts. 5 Remove the timing belt upper cover (see

paragraph 1 above).

6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley. 8 Unscrew the middle cover fasteners (one

bolt at the front, one at the lower rear, one stud at the top rear) and withdraw the cover

(see illustration). 9 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

procedure. Ensure that the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners. 10 If the power steering hoses where disconnected, bleed the system as described in Chapter 10 after reconnection.

Lower cover

11 Remove the crankshaft pulley (see Section 8). 12 Unscrew the cover’s three securing bolts, and withdraw it (see illustration). 13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners.

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•9

9.8 Timing belt and cover details

8.4B Ensure pulley is located on

crankshaft Woodruff key on reassembly

8.4A Unscrew pulley bolt to release crankshaft pulley

9.15 Timing belt inner shield fasteners (arrowed)

9.12 Removing timing belt lower cover bolt locations arrowed

1 Timing belt upper

cover

2 Inlet camshaft

toothed pulley

3 Exhaust camshaft

toothed pulley 4 Timing belt 5 Timing belt

tensioner 6 Crankshaft

toothed pulley 7 Timing belt middle

cover 8 Timing belt lower

cover 9 Crankshaft pulley

10 Water pump pulley

Inner shield

14 Remove the timing belt, its tensioner components and the camshaft toothed pulleys (see Sections 10 and 11). 15 The shield is secured to the cylinder head by two bolts at the top, and by two studs lower down; unscrew these and withdraw the shield (see illustration). 16 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners.

10 Timing belt - removal, refitting

and adjustment

Note: To carry out this operation, a new timing belt (where applicable), a new cylinder head cover gasket, and some special tools (see text) will be required. If the timing belt is being removed for the first time since the vehicle left the factory, a tensioner spring and retaining pin must be obtained for fitting on reassembly.

1 With the vehicle parked on firm level ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1.

2 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts. 3 Remove the cylinder head cover (see

Section 5). 4 Remove the spark plugs, covering their holes with clean rag, to prevent dirt or other foreign bodies from dropping in (see Chapter 1). 5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 6 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of notches in the pulley rim align with the edge of the sump mark, so that Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at TDC (see Section 4). 7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley and the auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley. 8 Obtain Ford service tool 21-162, or fabricate a substitute from a strip of metal 5 mm thick (while the strip’s thickness is critical, its length and width are not, but should be approximately 180 to 230 mm by 20 to 30 mm). Check that Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at Top Dead Centre (TDC) - No 1

on the compression stroke - by resting this tool on the cylinder head mating surface, and sliding it into the slot in the left-hand end of both camshafts (see illustration). The tool should slip snugly into both slots while resting on the cylinder head mating surface; if one camshaft is only slightly out of alignment, it is permissible to use an open-ended spanner to rotate the camshaft gently and carefully until the tool will fit. 9 If both camshaft slots (they are machined significantly off-centre) are below the level of the cylinder head mating surface, rotate the crankshaft through one full turn clockwise and fit the tool again; it should now fit as described in the previous paragraph. 10 With the camshaft aligning tool remaining in place, remove the crankshaft pulley. Do not use the locked camshafts to prevent the crankshaft from rotating - use only the locking method described in Section 8. 11 Remove the timing belt lower and middle covers (see Section 9). 12 With the camshaft-aligning tool still in place, slacken the tensioner bolt, and use an Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the tensioner clockwise as far as possible away from the belt; retighten the bolt to secure the tensioner clear of the timing belt (see

illustration). 13 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use

white paint or similar to mark its direction of rotation, and note from the manufacturer’s markings which way round it is fitted. Withdraw the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. 14 If the belt is being removed for reasons other than routine renewal, check it carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, cracks (especially at the roots of the belt teeth) or contamination with oil or coolant. Renew the belt if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. As a safety measure, the belt must be renewed as a matter of course at the intervals given in Chapter 1; if its history is unknown, the belt should be renewed irrespective of its apparent condition whenever the engine is overhauled. Similarly, check the tensioner spring (where fitted), renewing it if there is any doubt about its

condition. Check also the toothed pulleys for signs of wear or damage, and ensure that the tensioner and guide pulleys rotate smoothly on their bearings; renew any worn or damaged components. If signs of oil or coolant contamination are found, trace the source of the leak and rectify it, then wash down the engine timing belt area and related components, to remove all traces of oil or coolant. 15 On reassembly, temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, to check that the pulley notches and sump rib are aligned as described in paragraph 6 above, then ensure that both camshafts are aligned at TDC by the special tool (paragraph 8). If the engine is being reassembled after major dismantling, both camshaft toothed pulleys should be free to rotate on their respective camshafts; if the timing belt alone is being renewed, both pulleys should still be securely fastened. 16 A holding tool will be required to prevent the camshaft toothed pulleys from rotating while their bolts are slackened and retightened; either obtain Ford service tool 15-030A, or fabricate a substitute as follows. Find two lengths of steel strip, one approximately 600 mm long and the other about 200 mm, and three bolts with nuts and washers; one nut and bolt forming the pivot of a forked tool, with the remaining nuts and bolts at the tips of the “forks”, to engage with the pulley spokes as shown in the accompanying illustrations. Note: Do not use

the camshaft-aligning tool (whether genuine Ford or not) to prevent rotation while the camshaft toothed pulley bolts are slackened or tightened; the risk of damage to the camshaft concerned and to the cylinder head is far too great. Use only a forked holding tool applied directly to the pulleys, as described.

17 If it is being fitted for the first time, screw the timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin into the cylinder head, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Unbolt the tensioner, hook the spring on to the pin and the tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner, engaging its backplate on the locating peg (see illustrations). 18 In all cases, slacken the tensioner bolt (if

2C•10 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

10.17A Fitting tensioner spring retaining pin

10.12 Slacken tensioner bolt, and use

Allen key to rotate tensioner away from

timing belt

10.8 Fit camshaft-aligning tool to ensure

engine is locked with Nos 1 and 4 cylinders

at TDC

necessary), and use an Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the tensioner clockwise as far as possible against spring tension, then retighten the bolt to secure the tensioner (see

illustration). 19 Fit the timing belt; if the original is being

refitted, ensure that the marks and notes made on removal are followed, so that the belt is refitted the same way round, and to run in the same direction. Starting at the crankshaft toothed pulley, work anti-clockwise around the camshaft toothed pulleys and tensioner, finishing off at the rear guide pulley. The front run, between the crankshaft and the exhaust camshaft toothed pulleys, must be kept taut, without altering the position either of the crankshaft or of the camshaft(s) - if necessary, the position of the camshaft toothed pulleys can be altered by rotating each on its camshaft (which remains fixed by the aligning tool). Where the pulley is still fastened, use the holding tool described in paragraph 16 above to prevent the pulley from rotating while its retaining bolt is slackened - the pulley can then be rotated on the camshaft until the belt will slip into place; retighten the pulley bolt. 20 When the belt is in place, slacken the tensioner bolt gently until the spring pulls the tensioner against the belt; the tensioner should be retained correctly against the timing belt inner shield and cylinder head, but must be just free to respond to changes in belt tension (see illustration). 21 Tighten both camshaft toothed pulley bolts (or check that they are tight, as applicable) and remove the camshaft-aligning tool. Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,

and rotate the crankshaft through two full turns clockwise to settle and tension the timing belt, returning the crankshaft (pulley notches) to the position described in paragraph 6 above. Refit the camshaftaligning tool; it should slip into place as described in paragraph 8. If all is well, proceed to paragraph 24 below. 22 If one camshaft is only just out of line, fit the forked holding tool to its toothed pulley, adjust its position as required, and check that any slack created has been taken up by the tensioner; rotate the crankshaft through two further turns clockwise, and refit the camshaft-aligning tool to check that it now fits as it should. If all is well, proceed to paragraph 24 below. 23 If either camshaft is significantly out of line, use the holding tool described in paragraph 16 above to prevent its pulley from rotating while its retaining bolt is slackened the camshaft can then be rotated (gently and carefully, using an open-ended spanner) until the camshaft-aligning tool will slip into place; take care not to disturb the relationship of the pulley to the timing belt. Without disturbing the pulley’s new position on the camshaft, tighten the pulley bolt to its specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). Remove the camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft through two further turns clockwise, and refit the tool to check that it now fits as it should. 24 When the timing belt has been settled at its correct tension, and the camshaft-aligning tool fits correctly when the crankshaft pulley notches are exactly aligned, tighten the tensioner bolt to its specified torque wrench

setting (see illustration). Fitting the forked holding tool to the spokes of each pulley in turn, check that the pulley bolts are tightened to their specified torque wrench setting. Remove the camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft through two further turns clockwise, and refit the tool to make a final check that it fits as it should. 25 The remainder of the reassembly procedure is the reverse of removal, ensuring that all fasteners are tightened to the specified torque.

11 Timing belt tensioner and

toothed pulleys - removal,

inspection and refitting

Tensioner

Note: If the tensioner is being removed for the first time since the vehicle left the factory, a tensioner spring and retaining pin must be obtained for fitting on reassembly.

1 While it is possible to reach the tensioner once the timing belt upper and middle covers only have been removed (see Section 9), the whole procedure outlined below must be followed, to ensure that the valve timing is correctly reset once the belt’s tension has been disturbed. 2 Release the tension from the timing belt as described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12. 3 Unscrew the tensioner bolt and withdraw the tensioner, unhooking the spring, if fitted (see illustration). Check the tensioner and spring as described in paragraph 14 of Section 10.

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•11

10.20 Slacken tensioner bolt to give initial belt tension

11.3 Removing timing belt tensioner

10.24 When setting is correct, tighten

tensioner bolt to specified torque wrench

setting

10.23 Using forked holding tool while

camshaft toothed pulley bolt is tightened

10.18 . . . then use Allen key to position tensioner so that timing belt can be

refitted

10.17B Hook spring onto tensioner and refit as shown - engage tensioner

backplate on locating peg (arrowed) . . .

4 On reassembly, if it is being fitted for the

first time, screw the timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin into the cylinder head, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Hook the spring onto the pin and the tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner, engaging its backplate on the locating peg. 5 Use an Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the tensioner clockwise as far as possible against spring tension, then tighten the bolt to secure the tensioner. 6 Reassemble, checking the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing belt tension, as described in paragraphs 20 to 25 of Section 10.

Camshaft and crankshaft toothed pulleys

7 While it may be possible to remove any of these pulleys once the relevant belt covers have been removed, the complete timing belt removal/refitting procedure (see Section 10) must be followed, to ensure that the valve timing is correctly reset once the belt’s tension has been disturbed. 8 With the timing belt removed, the camshaft toothed pulleys can be detached once their retaining bolts have been unscrewed as described in paragraphs 16 and 19 of Section

10. The crankshaft toothed pulley can be pulled off the end of the crankshaft, once the crankshaft (grooved) pulley and the timing belt have been removed. Note the “FRONT” marking identifying the pulley’s outboard face, and the thrustwasher behind it; note which way round the thrustwasher is fitted (see illustration). Note the pulley-locating Woodruff key; if this is loose, it should be removed for safe storage with the pulley. 9 Check the pulleys as described in paragraph 14 of Section 10. 10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Timing belt guide pulleys

11 Remove the timing belt covers (see Section 9). 12 Unbolt and withdraw the pulley(s); check their condition as described in paragraph 14 of Section 10. 13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

procedure; tighten the pulley bolts to the specified torque wrench setting (see

illustration).

12 Camshaft oil seals -

renewal

Note: While it is possible to reach either oil seal, once the respective toothed pulley has been removed (see Section 11) to allow the seal to be prised out, this procedure is not recommended. Not only are the seals very soft, making this difficult to do without risk of damage to the seal housing, but it would be very difficult to ensure that the valve timing and the timing belt’s tension, once disturbed, are correctly reset. Owners are advised to follow the whole procedure outlined below.

1 Release the tension from the timing belt as described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12.

Note: If the timing belt is found to be contaminated by oil, remove it completely as described, then renew the oil seal (see below). Wash down the engine timing belt area and all related components, to remove all traces of oil. Fit a new belt on reassembly.

2 If the timing belt is still clean, slip it off the toothed pulley, taking care not to twist it too sharply; use the fingers only to handle the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. Cover the belt, and secure it so that it is clear of the working area

and cannot slip off the remaining toothed pulley. 3 Unfasten the pulley bolt and withdraw the pulley (see Section 11). 4 Unbolt the camshaft right-hand bearing cap, and withdraw the defective oil seal. Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use of their service tool 21-009B, with a bolt (10 mm thread size, 70 mm long) and a washer, to draw the seal into place when the camshaft bearing cap is bolted down; a substitute can be made using a suitable socket (see illustration). Grease the seal lips and periphery to ease installation, and draw the seal into place until it is flush with the housing/bearing cap outer edge. Refit the bearing cap, using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as described in Section 13. 6 For most owners, the simplest answer will be to grease the seal lips, and to slide it onto the camshaft (until it is flush with the housing’s outer edge). Refit the bearing cap, using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as described in Section 13 (see illustration). Take care to ensure that the seal remains absolutely square in its housing, and is not distorted as the cap is tightened down. 7 Refit the pulley to the camshaft, tightening the retaining bolt loosely, then slip the timing belt back onto the pulley (refer to paragraphs 16 and 19 of Section 10) and tighten the bolt securely. 8 The remainder of the reassembly procedure, including checking the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 20 to 25 of Section 10.

13 Camshafts and hydraulic

tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting

Removal

1 Release the tension from the timing belt as described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12. 2 Either remove the timing belt completely (Section 10, paragraphs 13 and 14) or slip it

2C•12 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

12.6 Alternatively, seal can be inserted

when camshaft bearing cap is unbolted

12.5 Using socket and toothed pulley bolt to install camshaft oil seal

11.13 Tighten timing belt guide pulley bolts to specified torque settings on

refitting

11.8 Note “FRONT” marking on outside face of crankshaft toothed pulley - note

which way round thrustwasher behind is

fitted

off the camshaft toothed pulleys, taking care not to twist it too sharply; use the fingers only to handle the belt. Cover the belt, and secure it so that it is clear of the working area. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. 3 Unfasten the pulley bolts as described in Section 10, paragraphs 16 and 19, and withdraw the pulleys; while both are the same and could be interchanged, it is good working practice to mark them so that each is refitted only to its original location (see illustration). 4 Working in the sequence shown, slacken progressively, by half a turn at a time, the camshaft bearing cap bolts (see illustration). Work only as described, to release gradually and evenly the pressure of the valve springs on the caps. 5 Withdraw the caps, noting their markings and the presence of the locating dowels, then remove the camshafts and withdraw their oil seals. The inlet camshaft can be identified by the reference lobe for the camshaft position sensor; therefore, there is no need to mark the camshafts (see illustrations). 6 Obtain sixteen small, clean containers, and number them 1 to 16. Using a rubber sucker, withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn, invert it to prevent oil loss, and place it in its respective container, which should then be filled with clean engine oil (see illustrations). Do not interchange the hydraulic tappets, or the rate of wear will be much increased. Do not allow them to lose oil, or they will take a

long time to refill on restarting the engine, resulting in incorrect valve clearances.

Inspection

7 With the camshafts and hydraulic tappets removed, check each for signs of obvious wear (scoring, pitting etc) and for ovality, and renew if necessary. 8 Measure the outside diameter of each tappet (see illustration) - take measurements at the top and bottom of each tappet, then a second set at right-angles to the first; if any measurement is significantly different from the others, the tappet is tapered or oval (as applicable) and must be renewed. If the necessary equipment is available, measure the inside diameter of the corresponding cylinder head bore. Compare the measurements obtained to those given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter; if the tappets or the cylinder head bores are excessively worn, new tappets and/or a new cylinder head will be required. 9 If the engine’s valve components have sounded noisy, particularly if the noise persists after initial start-up from cold, there is reason to suspect a faulty hydraulic tappet. Only a good mechanic experienced in these engines can tell whether the noise level is typical, or if renewal of one or more of the tappets is warranted. If faulty tappets are diagnosed, and the engine’s service history is unknown, it is always worth trying the effect of

renewing the engine oil and filter (see Chapter

1), using only good-quality engine oil of the recommended viscosity and specification, before going to the expense of renewing any of the tappets - refer also to the advice in Section 1 of this Chapter. 10 Visually examine the camshaft lobes for score marks, pitting, galling (wear due to rubbing) and evidence of overheating (blue, discoloured areas). Look for flaking away of the hardened surface layer of each lobe. If any such signs are evident, renew the component concerned. 11 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and the cylinder head bearing surfaces for signs of obvious wear or pitting. If any such signs are evident, renew the component concerned.

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•13

13.5A Note locating dowels when removing camshaft bearing caps

13.4 Camshaft bearing cap slackening sequence

Note: Viewed from front of vehicle, showing

bearing cap numbers

13.3 Using forked holding tool while

camshaft toothed pulley bolt is slackened

13.8 Use a micrometer to measure diameter of hydraulic tappets

13.6B Hydraulic tappets must be stored as described in text

13.6A Removing hydraulic tappets

13.5B Inlet camshaft has lobe for camshaft position sensor

12 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of each journal at several points. If the diameter of any one journal is less than the specified value, renew the camshaft. 13 To check the bearing journal running clearance, remove the hydraulic tappets, use a suitable solvent and a clean lint-free rag to clean carefully all bearing surfaces, then refit the camshafts and bearing caps with a strand of Plastigage across each journal. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque wrench setting (do not rotate the camshafts), then remove the bearing caps and use the scale provided to measure the width of the compressed strands. Scrape off the Plastigage with your fingernail or the edge of a credit card - don’t scratch or nick the journals or bearing caps. 14 If the running clearance of any bearing is found to be worn to beyond the specified service limits, fit a new camshaft and repeat the check; if the clearance is still excessive, the cylinder head must be renewed. 15 To check camshaft endfloat, remove the hydraulic tappets, clean the bearing surfaces carefully, and refit the camshafts and bearing caps. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque wrench setting, then measure the endfloat using a DTI (Dial Test Indicator, or dial gauge) mounted on the

cylinder head so that its tip bears on the camshaft right-hand end. 16 Tap the camshaft fully towards the gauge, zero the gauge, then tap the camshaft fully away from the gauge, and note the gauge reading. If the endfloat measured is found to be at or beyond the specified service limit, fit a new camshaft and repeat the check; if the clearance is still excessive, the cylinder head must be renewed.

Refitting

17 On reassembly, liberally oil the cylinder head hydraulic tappet bores and the tappets (see illustration). Note that if new tappets are being fitted, they must be charged with clean engine oil before installation. Carefully refit the tappets to the cylinder head, ensuring that each tappet is refitted to its original bore, and is the correct way up. Some care will be required to enter the tappets squarely into their bores. 18 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and lobes. Ensuring that each camshaft is in its original location, refit the camshafts, locating each so that the slot in its left-hand end is approximately parallel to, and just above, the cylinder head mating surface. 19 Ensure that the locating dowels are pressed firmly into their recesses, and check that all mating surfaces are completely clean, unmarked and free from oil. Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford recommend Loctite 518) to the mating surfaces of each

camshaft’s right-hand bearing cap (see illustration). Referring to paragraph 6 of Section 12, some owners may wish to fit the new camshaft oil seals at this stage. 20 All camshaft bearing caps have a singledigit identifying number etched on them (see illustration). The exhaust camshaft’s bearing caps are numbered in sequence 0 (right-hand cap) to 4 (left-hand cap), the inlet’s 5 (righthand cap) to 9 (left-hand cap); see illustration 13.21 for details. Each cap is to be fitted so that its numbered side faces outwards, to the front (exhaust) or to the rear (inlet). 21 Ensuring that each cap is kept square to the cylinder head as it is tightened down, and working in the sequence shown, tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts slowly and by one turn at a time, until each cap touches the cylinder head (see illustration). Next, go round again in the same sequence, tightening the bolts to the first stage torque wrench setting specified, then once more, tightening them to the second stage setting. Work only as described, to impose gradually and evenly the pressure of the valve springs on the caps. Fit the camshaft-aligning tool; it should slip into place as described in paragraph 8 of Section 10 (see illustration). 22 Wipe off all surplus sealant, so that none is left to find its way into any oilways. Follow the sealant manufacturer’s instructions as to the time needed for curing; usually, at least an hour must be allowed between application of the sealant and starting the engine. 23 If using Ford’s recommended procedure, fit new oil seals to the camshafts as described in paragraph 5 of Section 12. 24 Using the marks and notes made on dismantling to ensure that each is refitted to its original camshaft, refit the toothed pulleys to the camshafts, tightening the retaining bolts loosely. Slip the timing belt back onto the pulleys (refer to paragraph 19 of Section 10) and tighten the bolts securely - use the forked holding tool described in paragraph 16 of Section 10. 25 The remainder of the reassembly procedure, including checking the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 15 to 25 of Section 10.

2C•14 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

13.21B Fit camshaft-aligning tool to set TDC position while camshaft toothed

pulleys are refitted

13.21A Camshaft bearing cap tightening sequence

Note: View from front of vehicle - locate

bearing caps according to etched numbers,

aligned as described in text

13.20 Etched marks on camshaft bearing

caps must be arranged as shown, and face

outwards

13.19 Apply sealant to mating surface of camshaft right-hand bearing caps

13.17 Oil liberally when refitting hydraulic tappets

14 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Removal

Note: The following text assumes that the cylinder head will be removed with both inlet and exhaust manifolds attached. This simplifies the procedure, but makes it a bulky and heavy assembly to handle - an engine hoist will be required, to prevent the risk of injury, and to prevent damage to any delicate components as the assembly is removed and refitted. If it is wished first to remove the manifolds, proceed as described in Sections 6 and 7 of this Chapter; amend the following procedure accordingly.

1 Depressurise the fuel system (see Chapter 4B). 2 With the vehicle parked on firm level ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 3 Whenever you disconnect any vacuum lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring loom connectors, earth straps and fuel lines as part of the following procedure, always label them clearly, so that they can be correctly reassembled. Masking tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator work well for marking items. Take instant photos, or sketch the locations of components and brackets. 4 Refer to Chapter 4B and remove the air inlet hose and inlet duct. 5 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel feed and return lines connecting the engine to the chassis (see Chapter 4B). Plug or cap all open fittings. 6 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4B. Secure the cable clear of the engine/ transmission.

7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 8 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power

steering pump. Releasing its wire clip, unplug the power steering pressure switch electrical connector, then unbolt the earth lead from the

cylinder head rear support plate/engine lifting eye. 9 Remove the three screws securing the wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold. Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure regulator) to disconnect the engine wiring from the main loom (see illustration). Unplug the electrical connectors on each side of the ignition coil, and the single connector from beneath the front of the thermostat housing, to disconnect the coil and coolant temperature gauge sender wiring (see

illustration). 10 Marking or labelling them as they are

unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as follows:

a) One from the rear of the throttle housing

(only the one hose - there is no need to disconnect the second hose running to the fuel pressure regulator).

b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’s

left-hand end.

c) The braking system vacuum servo unit

hose (see Chapter 9 for details).

11 Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold heat shield. Either remove the dipstick and tube, or swing them out of the way. 12 Unscrew the single bolt securing the pulse-air filter housing to the engine/ transmission front mounting bracket, then disconnect its vacuum hose.

13 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 14 Disconnect all coolant hoses from the thermostat housing (see illustration). 15 Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect the

exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold (Chapter 4B); disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the weight of the exhaust system. 16 Support the weight of the engine/ transmission using a trolley jack, with a wooden spacer to prevent damage to the sump. 17 Remove the timing belt and both camshafts (see Sections 10 and 13); if the cylinder head is to be dismantled, withdraw the hydraulic tappets. 18 Remove the timing belt inner shield (see Section 9).

19 Working in the reverse of the sequence shown in illustration 14.30A, slacken the ten cylinder head bolts progressively and by one turn at a time; a Torx key (TX 55 size) will be required. Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that new replacements are obtained for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to severe stresses and so must be renewed, regardless of their apparent condition, whenever they are disturbed. 20 Lift the cylinder head away; use assistance if possible, as it is a heavy assembly. Remove the gasket, noting the two dowels, and discard it.

Refitting

21 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take particular care, as the soft aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also, make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages - this is particularly important for the lubrication system, as carbon could block the oil supply to any of the engine’s components. Using adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder block. Clean all the pistons in the same way.

22 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. 23 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight edge to

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•15

14.14 Disconnect all coolant hoses from thermostat housing

14.9B Unplug connectors (arrowed) to disconnect ignition coil wiring

14.9A Unplug engine wiring loom

connector alongside the inlet manifold

To prevent carbon entering the gap between the pistons and bores, smear a little

grease in the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag.

check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this Chapter, if necessary. 24 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and cylinder block. Check that the two locating dowels are in position in the cylinder block, and that all cylinder head bolt holes are free from oil. 25 Position a new gasket over the dowels on the cylinder block surface, so that the “TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost, and with the tooth (or teeth, according to engine size) protruding from the front edge (see

illustration). 26 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,

and rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so

that No 1 cylinder’s piston is lowered to approximately 20 mm before TDC, thus avoiding any risk of valve/piston contact and damage during reassembly. 27 As the cylinder head is such a heavy and awkward assembly to refit with manifolds, it is helpful to make up a pair of guide studs from two 10 mm (thread size) studs approximately 90 mm long, with a screwdriver slot cut in one end - two old cylinder head bolts with their heads cut off would make a good starting point. Screw these guide studs, screwdriver slot upwards to permit removal, into the bolt holes at diagonally-opposite corners of the cylinder block surface (or into those where the locating dowels are fitted, as shown); ensure that approximately 70 mm of stud protrudes above the gasket. 28 Refit the cylinder head, sliding it down the guide studs (if used) and locating it on the dowels. Unscrew the guide studs (if used) when the head is in place.

29 Fit the new cylinder head bolts dry (do not oil their threads); carefully enter each into its

hole and screw it in, by hand only, until fingertight. 30 Working progressively and in the sequence shown, use first a torque wrench, then an ordinary socket extension bar and an angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head bolts in the stages given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter (see illustrations).

Note: Once tightened correctly, following this procedure, the cylinder head bolts do not require check-tightening, and must not be retorqued.

31 Refit the hydraulic tappets (if removed), the camshafts, their oil seals and pulleys (see Sections 10, 11, 12 and 13, as appropriate). Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and rotate the crankshaft clockwise to return the pulley notches to the position described in paragraph 6 of Section 10. 32 Refit the timing belt and covers, checking the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing belt tension, as described in Section 10. 33 The remainder of reassembly is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:

a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench

settings specified.

b) Refill the cooling system, and top-up the

engine oil.

c) Check all disturbed joints for signs of oil

or coolant leakage, once the engine has been restarted and warmed-up to normal operating temperature.

d) If the power steering hoses where

disconnected, bleed the system as described in Chapter 10 after reconnection.

15 Sump - removal and refitting

Removal

Note: The full procedure outlined below must be followed, so that the mating surfaces can be cleaned and prepared to achieve an oiltight joint on reassembly, and so that the sump can be aligned correctly; depending on your skill and experience, and the tools and facilities available, it may be that this task can be carried out only with the engine removed from the vehicle. Note that the sump gasket must be renewed whenever it is disturbed.

1 With the vehicle parked on firm level ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Although not strictly necessary as part of the dismantling procedure, owners are advised to remove and discard the oil filter, so that it can be renewed with the oil (see Chapter 1). 3 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the starter motor. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1). 5 Unplug the electrical connector(s) to disconnect the oxygen sensor. 6 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold, then either unhook all the system’s rubber mountings and withdraw the complete exhaust system from under the vehicle, or remove only the downpipe/catalytic converter (see Chapter 4B for details). 7 Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts, also any securing the engine/transmission lower adapter plate. 8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining bolts. Break the joint by striking the sump with the palm of the hand, then lower the sump and withdraw it with the engine/transmission lower adapter plate (where fitted); note the presence of any shims between the sump and transmission. 9 Remove and discard the sump gasket; this must be renewed as a matter of course whenever it is disturbed. 10 While the sump is removed, take the opportunity to remove the oil pump pickup/strainer pipe and to clean it (see Section 16).

2C•16 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

14.30C . . . and to Stage 3 using angle gauge

14.30B Tightening cylinder head bolts

(Stages 1 and 2) using torque wrench . . .

14.30A Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

Note: View from rear of vehicle

14.25 Ensuring protruding tooth (or teeth) “A” are at front and marking “B” is

upwards, locate new cylinder head gasket

on dowels “C”

Refitting

11 On reassembly, thoroughly clean and degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s interior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe was removed, fit a new gasket and refit the pipe, tightening its screws to the specified torque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket to the sump mating surface so that the gasket fits into the sump groove (see illustration). 12 If the sump is being refitted with the engine/transmission still connected and in the vehicle, proceed as follows:

a) Check that the mating surfaces of the

sump, the cylinder block/crankcase and the transmission are absolutely clean and flat. Any shims found on removal of the sump must be refitted in their original locations.

b) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford

recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions of the cylinder block/crankcase with the oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier. Without delay - the sump bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to 20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer up the sump and engine/transmission lower adapter plate, and refit the bolts, tightening them lightly at first.

c) Ensuring that the engine/transmission

lower adapter plate is correctly located, firmly press the sump against the transmission, and tighten the

transmission-to-sump (ie, engine) bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

d) Without disturbing the position of the

sump, and working in a diagonal sequence from the centre outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

e) Proceed to paragraph 14.

13 If the sump is being refitted with the engine and transmission separated (in or out of the vehicle), proceed as follows:

a) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford

recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions of the cylinder block/crankcase with the oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier (see illustration). Without delay - the sump bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to 20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer up the sump to the cylinder block/crankcase, and insert the sump bolts, tightening them lightly at first.

b) Using a suitable straight edge to check

alignment across the flat-machined faces of each, move the sump as necessary so that its left-hand face - including any shims found on removal - is flush with that of the cylinder block/crankcase (see illustration). Without disturbing the position of the sump, and working in a diagonal sequence from the centre outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

c) Check again that both faces are flush

before proceeding; if necessary, unbolt the sump again, clean the mating

surfaces, and repeat the full procedure to ensure that the sump is correctly aligned.

d) If it is not possible to achieve exact

alignment by moving the sump, shims are available in thicknesses of 0.25 mm (colour-coded yellow) or 0.50 mm (colourcoded black) to eliminate the discrepancy (see illustration).

14 The remainder of reassembly is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points.

a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench

settings specified.

b) Always renew any self-locking nuts

disturbed on removal. c) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). d) Refill the engine with oil, remembering

that you are advised to fit a new filter (see

Chapter 1). e) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks

once the engine has been restarted and

warmed-up to normal operating

temperature.

16 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 10). 2 Withdraw the crankshaft toothed pulley and

the thrustwasher behind it, noting which way round the thrustwasher is fitted (see Section 11).

3 Remove the sump (see Section 15). 4 Undo the screws securing the oil pump

pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then unscrew the nut and withdraw the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe. Discard the gasket. 5 Unbolt the pump from the cylinder block/crankcase (see illustration). Withdraw

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•17

15.13B Checking alignment of sump with cylinder block/crankcase

15.13A Apply sealant (arrowed) as directed when refitting sump

15.11 Ensure gasket is located correctly in sump groove

16.5 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove oil pump

15.13C Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcase alignment shims

1 Fitting points on sump 2 Shim

and discard the gasket, and remove the crankshaft right-hand oil seal. Thoroughly clean and degrease all components, particularly the mating surfaces of the pump, the sump, and the cylinder block/crankcase.

Inspection

6 Unscrew the Torx screws, and remove the pump cover plate; noting any identification marks on the rotors, withdraw the rotors (see

illustration). 7 Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear

or damage, and renew if necessary; if either rotor, the pump body, or its cover plate are scored or damaged, the complete oil pump assembly must be renewed.

8 The oil pressure relief valve can be dismantled, if required, without disturbing the pump. With the vehicle parked on firm level ground, apply the handbrake securely and raise its front end, supporting it securely on axle stands. Remove the front right-hand roadwheel and auxiliary drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1) to provide access to the valve. 9 Unscrew the threaded plug, and recover the valve spring and plunger (see illustrations). If the plug’s sealing O-ring is worn or damaged, a new one must be obtained, to be fitted on reassembly. 10 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure; ensure the spring and valve are refitted the correct way round, and tighten the threaded plug securely.

Refitting

11 The oil pump must be primed on installation, by pouring clean engine oil into it, and rotating its inner rotor a few turns. 12 Using grease to stick the new gasket in place on the cylinder block/crankcase, and rotating the pump’s inner rotor to align with the flats on the crankshaft, refit the pump and insert the bolts, tightening them lightly at first

(see illustration). 13 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler

gauges, check that the pump is both centred exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and

0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder block/crankcase on each side of the

crankshaft (see illustration). Being careful not to disturb the gasket, move the pump into the correct position, and tighten its bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 14 Check that the pump is correctly located; if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the full procedure to ensure that the pump is correctly aligned. 15 Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal (see Section 17). 16 Using grease to stick the gasket in place on the pump, refit the pick-up/strainer pipe, tightening its screws and nut to their specified torque wrench settings (see illustration). 17 The remainder of reassembly is the reverse of the removal procedure, referring to the relevant text for details where required.

17 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

Note: Don’t try to prise these seals out without removing the oil pump or seal carrier - the seals are too soft, and the amount of space available is too small, for this to be possible without considerable risk of damage to the seal housing and/or the crankshaft journal. Follow exactly the procedure given below.

Right-hand seal

1 Remove the oil pump (see Section 16). 2 Drive the oil seal out of the pump from

behind (see illustration).

2C•18 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

17.2 Driving out crankshaft right-hand oil seal

16.16 Use new gasket when refitting oil pick-up pipe to pump

16.13 Oil pump must be centred on crankshaft, and square to cylinder block/ crankcase-to-sump mating surface - use straight edge and feeler gauges to check

that pump surface is an equal amount

(within permissible limits) below crankcase

surface on both sides of crankshaft

16.12 Use new gasket when refitting oil pump

16.9B . . . to withdraw oil pressure relief valve spring and plunger

16.9A Unscrew threaded plug - seen through right-hand wheel arch . . .

16.6 Withdrawing oil pump inner rotor

3 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,

polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 4 Refit the oil pump (see Section 16). Grease the lips and periphery of the new seal, to ease installation. 5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use of their service tool 21-093A, with the crankshaft pulley bolt, to draw the seal into place; an alternative can be arranged using a socket of suitable size, with a washer to match the crankshaft pulley bolt (see

illustration). 6 If such tools are not available, press the

seal squarely into place by hand; tap it in until it is flush with the pump housing, using a softfaced mallet and a socket with an outside diameter only slightly smaller than the seal’s (see illustration). This approach requires great care, to ensure that the seal is fitted squarely, without distortion or damage. 7 Wash off any traces of oil. The remainder of reassembly is the reverse of the removal procedure, referring to the relevant text for details where required. Check for signs of oil leakage when the engine is restarted.

Left-hand seal

8 Remove the transmission (see the relevant Part of Chapter 7). 9 Where appropriate, remove the clutch (Chapter 8). 10 Unbolt the flywheel/driveplate (see Section 18).

11 Remove the sump (see Section 15). 12 Unbolt the oil seal carrier (see illustration). Remove and discard its gasket. 13 Supporting the carrier evenly on wooden

blocks, drive the oil seal out of the carrier from behind (see illustration). 14 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft, polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first

place. Clean also the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and carrier, using a scraper to remove all traces of the old gasket

- be careful not to scratch or damage the material of either - then use a suitable solvent to degrease them. 15 Use grease to stick the new gasket in place on the cylinder block/crankcase, then offer up the carrier (see illustration). 16 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler gauges, check that the carrier is both centred exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and

0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder block/crankcase on each side of the crankshaft. Being careful not to disturb the gasket, move the carrier into the correct position, and tighten its bolts to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). 17 Check that the carrier is correctly located; if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the full procedure to ensure that the carrier is correctly aligned. 18 Ford’s recommended method of seal fitting is to use service tool 21-141, with two flywheel bolts to draw the seal into place. If this is not available, make up a guide from a thin sheet of plastic or similar, lubricate the lips of the new seal and the crankshaft shoulder with grease, then offer up the seal, with the guide feeding the seal’s lips over the crankshaft shoulder (see illustration). Press

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•19

17.12 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier . . .

17.13 . . . and ensure that carrier is

properly supported when driving out used

oil seal - note notches provided in carrier

for drift

17.6 If seal is tapped into place as shown, exercise great care to prevent seal from

being damaged or distorted

17.5 Socket of correct size can be used to replace Ford service tool, drawing new

seal into place as described

17.18 Using guide made from thin sheet of plastic to slide oil seal lips over crankshaft

shoulder

17.16 Oil seal carrier must be centred on crankshaft, and square to cylinder block/ crankcase-to-sump mating surface - use straight edge and feeler gauges to check

that carrier surface is an equal amount

(within permissible limits) below crankcase

surface on both sides of crankshaft

17.15 Use new gasket when refitting lefthand oil seal carrier

the seal evenly into its housing by hand only, and use a soft-faced mallet gently to tap it into place until it is flush with the surrounding housing. 19 Wipe off any surplus oil or grease; the remainder of the reassembly procedure is the reverse of dismantling, referring to the relevant text for details where required. Check for signs of oil leakage when the engine is restarted.

18 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the transmission (see the relevant Part of Chapter 7). Now is a good time to check components such as oil seals, and renew them if necessary. 2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch (Chapter 8). Now is a good time to check or renew the clutch components and pilot bearing. 3 Use a centre-punch or paint to make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment during refitting. 4 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning by locking the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the cylinder block/crankcase. Slacken the bolts evenly until all are free. 5 Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that new replacements are obtained for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to severe stresses, and so must be renewed, regardless of their apparent condition, whenever they are disturbed. 6 Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic transmission models only), withdraw the flywheel/driveplate; do not drop it - it is very heavy.

Inspection

7 Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery

cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat surface, and use a straight edge to check for warpage. 8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew it (see Section 17) before refitting the flywheel/driveplate. 9 While the flywheel/driveplate is removed, clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face, particularly the recesses which serve as the reference points for the crankshaft speed/position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip, and check that the sensor is securely fastened.

Refitting

10 On refitting, ensure that the engine/transmission adapter plate is in place (where necessary), then fit the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft so that all bolt holes align - it will fit only one way check this using the marks made on removal. Do not forget the reinforcing plate (automatic transmission models). 11 Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the method used on dismantling. Working in a diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly, and increasing to the final amount in two or three stages, tighten the new bolts to the specified torque wrench setting (see

illustration). 12 The remainder of reassembly is the

reverse of the removal procedure, referring to the relevant text for details where required.

19 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and

renewal

General

or automatic transmission is fitted, and if manual transmission is fitted, whether it is the BC type or MTX-75 type. This also has a significant bearing on the amount of peripheral dismantling necessary for access to the mountings, which will have to be assessed according to model.

Inspection

3 During the check, the engine/transmission must be raised slightly, to remove its weight from the mountings. 4 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Position a jack under the sump, with a large block of wood between the jack head and the sump, then carefully raise the engine/transmission just enough to take the weight off the mountings.

Warning: DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine when it is supported only by a jack!

5 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal components. Sometimes, the rubber will split right down the centre. 6 Check for relative movement between each mounting’s brackets and the engine/ transmission or body (use a large screwdriver or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If movement is noted, lower the engine and check-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

Left-hand front mounting

7 Position a jack under the transmission, with

a block of wood between the jack head and the sump. Raise the jack to just take the weight off the mounting. 8 Undo the two bolts securing the mounting to the body side member, and the two bolts securing the mounting to the transmission bracket (see illustration). Withdraw the mounting from its location. 9 Refitting is the reversal of removal, tightening the retaining bolts to the specified torque.

Left-hand rear mounting

10 Remove the air cleaner unit as described

in Chapter 4B.

2C•20 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

19.12 Engine/transmission left-hand rear mounting and mounting bracket

attachments

19.8 Engine/transmission left-hand front mounting attachments

18.11 Note “peg” tool used to lock

flywheel/driveplate while (new) bolts are

tightened

11 Position a jack under the transmission,

with a block of wood between the jack head and the transmission. Raise the jack to just take the weight off the mounting. 12 Undo the nuts and bolts securing the mounting brackets to the top of the transmission and to the mounting itself (see illustration). Remove the mounting brackets from the transmission. 13 Undo the two bolts, one from above and one from below, securing the mounting to the body. Remove the mounting from under the brake servo unit. 14 Refitting is the reversal of removal, tightening the retaining bolts to the specified torque.

Right-hand mounting

15 Raise the front of the vehicle, and

securely support it on axle stands. For preference, raise the car on ramps. 16 Drain the engine oil, and remove the oil filter (see Chapter 1).

17 Undo the two upper bolts and one lower bolt and remove the mounting support brace. 18 Undo the two upper nuts securing the mounting to the body (see illustration). 19 Undo the two lower nuts securing the mounting to the engine bracket (see

illustration). Manipulate the mounting, complete with damper weight, out from under the car. 20 Refitting is the reversal of removal, tightening the retaining nuts and bolts to the specified torque.

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•21

19.19 Engine right-hand mounting-to-

engine bracket retaining bolts (arrowed)

19.18 Engine right-hand mounting-to-body retaining nuts

HCS engine

Cylinder head

Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion

(measured over full length) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º

Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.18 to 1.75 mm*

*The inlet and exhaust valves have special inserts which cannot be recut using conventional tools.

Valves - general Inlet Exhaust

Valve lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.86 to 9.26 mm 8.96 to 9.36 mm

Valve length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103.7 to 104.4 mm 104.2 to 104.7 mm

Valve head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.40 to 34.60 mm 28.90 to 29.10 mm

Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm 7.0 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.069 0.046 to 0.095

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.91 to 73.92 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.92 to 73.93 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.93 to 73.94 mm

Oversize 0.5 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.46 to 74.49 mm

Oversize 1.0 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.96 to 74.99 mm

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.050 mm

Piston ring end gap - installed:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mm

Oil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.40 mm

Ring gap position:

Top compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Offset 180º from oil control ring gap

Second compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Offset 90º from oil control ring gap

Oil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aligned with gudgeon pin

Chapter 2 Part D: Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

Camshaft and tappets - removal, inspection and refitting

(HCS engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . See Chapter 1

Crankshaft - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check . . 20

Crankshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and inspection . . . 9

Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Engine - removal and refitting (HCS engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Engine removal - methods and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Engine/transmission - removal and refitting (CVH engine) . . . . . . . . 5

Engine/transmission - removal and refitting (Zetec engine) . . . . . . . 6

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Main and big-end bearings - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Piston/connecting rod assemblies - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Piston/connecting rod assemblies - refitting and big-end

bearing clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

2D•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.94 to 73.95 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.50 to 73.96 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.96 to 73.97 mm

Oversize 0.5 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.50 to 74.51 mm

Oversize 1.0 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.00 to 75.01 mm

Gudgeon pin

Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63.3 to 64.6 mm

Diameter:

White colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.026 to 18.029 mm

Red colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.029 to 18.032 mm

Blue colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.032 to 18.035 mm

Yellow colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.035 to 18.038 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.008 to 0.014 mm

Interference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.016 to 0.048 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.990 to 57.000 mm

0.254 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.726 to 56.746 mm

0.508 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.472 to 56.492 mm

0.762 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.218 to 56.238 mm

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.009 to 0.056 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.99 to 41.01 mm

0.254 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.74 to 40.76 mm

0.508 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.49 to 40.51 mm

0.762 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.24 to 40.26 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.075 to 0.285 mm

Thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.80 to 2.85 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.99 to 3.04 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 to 102 65 to 72

*Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 32

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 45 26 to 33

Engine/transmission mountings:

Right-hand mounting-to-cylinder block bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102

Right-hand mounting bracket-to-cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Right-hand mounting brace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Right-hand mounting-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 51 to 71

Left-hand rear mounting bracket-to-transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Left-hand rear mounting bracket-to-mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Left-hand front mounting bracket-to-mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Left-hand front mounting bracket brace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

*New bolts must be used Note: Refer to Part A of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

CVH engine

Valves - general Inlet Exhaust

Valve lift:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.3 to 9.7 mm 9.3 to 9.7 mm

1.6 litre engine: Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 to 9.9 mm 9.5 to 9.9 mm

EFi fuel-injected models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3 to 10.7 mm 10.3 to 10.7 mm

Valve length:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136.29 to 136.75 mm 132.97 to 133.43 mm

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134.54 to 135.00 mm 131.57 to 132.03 mm

Valve head diameter:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.90 to 40.10 mm 33.90 to 34 10 mm

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.90 to 42.10 mm 36.90 to 37.10 mm

Valve stem diameter (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm 7.999 to 8.017 mm

Valve stem diameter (0.2 mm oversize) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.225 to 8.243 mm 8.199 to 8.217 mm

Valve stem diameter (0.4 mm oversize) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.425 to 8.443 mm 8.399 to 8.417 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.063 mm 0.046 to 0.089 mm

2D•2 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

Cylinder head

Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion (measured

over full length) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Camshaft bearing bore diameters in cylinder head (standard):

Bearing 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.783 to 44.808 mm

Bearing 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.033 to 45.058 mm

Bearing 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.283 to 45.308 mm

Bearing 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.533 to 45.558 mm

Bearing 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.783 to 45.808 mm

Camshaft bearing bore diameters in cylinder head (oversize):

Bearing 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.188 to 45.163 mm

Bearing 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.438 to 45.413 mm

Bearing 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.668 to 45.663 mm

Bearing 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.983 to 45.913 mm

Bearing 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.188 to 46.163 mm

Valve tappet bore diameter (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.235 to 22.265 mm

Valve tappet bore diameter (oversize) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.489 to 22.519 mm

Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44º30’ to 45º30’

Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.75 to 2.32 mm*

*The cylinder head has valve seat rings on the exhaust side. These valve seats cannot be recut with conventional tools.

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

1.4 litre engine:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.22 to 77.23 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.23 to 77.24 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.24 to 77.25 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.25 to 77.26 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.51 to 77.52 mm

Oversize B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.52 to 77.53 mm

Oversize C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.53 to 77.54 mm

1.6 litre engine:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.94 to 79.95 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.95 to 79.96 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.96 to 79.97 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.97 to 79.98 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.23 to 80.24 mm

Oversize B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.24 to 80.25 mm

Oversize C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.25 to 80.26 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing shell inside diameter - installed:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58.011 to 58.038 mm

0.25 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.761 to 57.788 mm

0.50 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.511 to 57.538 mm

0.75 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.261 to 57.288 mm

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.98 to 58.00 mm

0.25 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.73 to 57.75 mm

0.50 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.48 to 57.50 mm

0.75 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.23 to 57.25 mm

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.058 mm

Big-end bearing shell inside diameter - installed:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.916 to 47.950 mm

0.25 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.666 to 47.700 mm

0.50 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.416 to 47.450 mm

0.75 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.166 to 47.200 mm

1.00 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.916 to 46.950 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.89 to 47.91 mm

0.25 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.64 to 47.66 mm

0.50 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.39 to 47.41 mm

0.75 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.14 to 47.16 mm

1.00 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.89 to 46.91 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.30 mm

Thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.301 to 2.351 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.491 to 2.541 mm

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•3

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter (production):

1.4 litre engine:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.190 to 77.200 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.200 to 77.210 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.210 to 77.220 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.220 to 77.230 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.480 to 77.490 mm

Oversize B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.490 to 77.500 mm

Oversize C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.500 to 77.510 mm

1.6 litre carburettor engine:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.910 to 79.920 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.920 to 79.930 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.930 to 79.940 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.940 to 79.950 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.200 to 80.210 mm

Oversize B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.210 to 80.220 mm

Oversize C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.220 to 80.230 mm

1.6 litre EFi fuel-injected engine:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.915 to 79.925 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.925 to 79.935 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.935 to 79.945 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.945 to 79.955 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.205 to 80.215 mm

Oversize B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.215 to 80.225 mm

Oversize C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.225 to 80.235 mm

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.040 mm

1.6 litre carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.040 mm

1.6 litre EFi fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.035 mm

Piston ring end gaps - installed:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control rings:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 1.40 mm

1.6 litre carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 1.40 mm

1.6 litre EFi fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.40 mm

Gudgeon pins

Length:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63.000 to 63.800 mm

1.6 litre carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66.200 to 67.000 mm

1.6 litre EFi fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63.000 to 63.800 mm

Diameter:

White colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mm

Red colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mm

Blue colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mm

Yellow colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.631 to 20.634 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.005 to 0.011 mm

Interference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 to 0.045 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 100 66 to 74

Big-end bearing caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 36 22 to 26

Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 45 26 to 33

Engine/transmission mountings:

Right-hand mounting-to-cylinder block bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102

Right-hand mounting bracket-to-cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 to 104 56 to 76

Right-hand mounting brace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Right-hand mounting-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 79 51 to 71

Left-hand rear mounting bracket-to-transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Left-hand rear mounting bracket-to-mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Left-hand front mounting bracket-to-mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Left-hand front mounting-to-bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Note: Refer to Part B of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2D•4 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

Zetec engine

Cylinder head

Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm

Valve seat included angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90º

Valve guide bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.060 to 6.091 mm

Valves - general Inlet Exhaust

Valve lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.500 to 7.685 mm 7.610 to 7.765 mm

Valve length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96.870 to 97.330 mm 96.470 to 96.930 mm

Valve head diameter:

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.0 mm 24.5 mm

1.8 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.0 mm 28.0 mm

Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.028 to 6.043 mm 6.010 to 6.025 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.017 to 0.064 mm 0.035 to 0.081 mm

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

1.6 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.000 to 76.010 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.010 to 76.020 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.020 to 76.030 mm

1.8 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.600 to 80.610 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.610 to 80.620 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.620 to 80.630 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter

1.6 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.975 to 75.985 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.985 to 75.995 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.995 to 76.005 mm

1.8 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.570 to 80.580 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.580 to 80.590 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.590 to 80.600 mm

Oversizes - all engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . None available

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No information available at time of writing

Piston ring end gaps - installed:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control ring:

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 1.00 mm

1.8 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.38 to 1.14 mm

Gudgeon pin

Diameter:

White colour code/piston crown marked “A” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mm

Red colour code/piston crown marked “B” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mm

Blue colour code/piston crown marked “C” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.016 mm

Connecting rod small-end eye internal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.589 to 20.609 mm

Interference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.042 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing shell standard inside diameter - installed . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58.011 to 58.038 mm

Main bearing journal standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.980 to 58.000 mm

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.058 mm

Main bearing shell undersizes available . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 mm, 0.25 mm

Big-end bearing shell standard inside diameter - installed . . . . . . . . . . 46.926 to 46.960 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.890 to 46.910 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . 0.016 to 0.070 mm

Big-end bearing shell undersizes available . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 mm, 0.25 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.090 to 0.310 mm

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•5

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Big-end bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Piston-cooling oil jet/blanking plug Torx screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Cylinder block and head oilway blanking plugs:

M6 x 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

M10 x 11.5 - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 17

1/4 PTF plug - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Power steering pump/air conditioning compressor mounting bracket-to-

cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35

Exhaust manifold heat shield mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts 32 24 Crankcase breather system:

Oil separator-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Pipe-to-cylinder head bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

Transmission-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Engine/transmission mountings:

Right-hand mounting-to-cylinder block bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102

Right-hand mounting bracket-to-cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 to 104 56 to 77

Right-hand mounting brace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Right-hand mounting-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 51 to 71

Left-hand rear mounting bracket-to-transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Left-hand rear mounting bracket-to-mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Left-hand front mounting bracket-to-mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Left-hand front mounting-to-bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Note: Refer to Part C of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2D•6 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to engine/transmission removal and refitting, to those repair procedures requiring the removal of the engine/transmission from the vehicle, and to the overhaul of engine components. It includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Refer to Parts A, B and C for additional Specifications, if required.

General information

The information ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal and installation of internal engine components and the inspection of parts.

The following Sections have been written based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the vehicle. For information concerning in-vehicle engine repair, as well as removal and installation of the external components necessary for the overhaul, see Parts A, B and C of this Chapter, and Section 7 of this Part.

When overhauling the engine, it is essential to establish first exactly what replacement parts are available. On some of the engines covered in this Chapter, components such as the piston rings are not available separately from the piston/connecting rod assemblies; pistons, gudgeon pins and valve guides may also not be available separately, as may some

under- or oversized components. In some cases, depending on the extent of engine wear, it would appear that the easiest and most economically-sensible course of action is to replace a worn or damaged engine with an exchange unit.

2 Engine overhaul -

general information

It’s not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of factors must be considered.

High mileage is not necessarily an indication that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage doesn’t preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably the most important consideration. An engine that’s had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, will most likely give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early in its life.

Excessive oil consumption is an indication that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks aren’t responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are worn. Perform a cylinder compression check to determine the extent of the work required.

Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve train noise and high fuel consumption rates may also point to the need for an overhaul, especially if they’re all present at the same

time. If a full service doesn’t remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution.

An engine overhaul involves restoring all internal parts to the specification of a new engine. Note: Always check first what

replacement parts are available before planning any overhaul operation; refer to Section 1. Ford dealers, or a good engine reconditioning specialist/automotive parts supplier may be able to suggest alternatives which will enable you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.

During an overhaul, it is usual to renew the piston rings, and to rebore and/or hone the cylinder bores; where the rebore is done by an automotive machine shop, new oversize pistons and rings will also be installed - all these operations, of course, assume the availability of suitable replacement parts. The main and big-end bearings are generally renewed and, if necessary, the crankshaft may be reground to restore the journals. Generally, the valves are serviced as well, since they’re usually in less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the starter and alternator, can be renewed as well, or rebuilt, if the necessary parts can be found. The end result should be an as-new engine that will give many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical

cooling system components such as the hoses, drivebelt, thermostat and water pump MUST be replaced with new parts when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully, to ensure that it isn’t clogged or leaking (see Chapter 3). Also, as a general rule, the oil pump should be renewed when an engine is rebuilt.

Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through the entire procedure to familiarise yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine isn’t difficult, but it is time-consuming. Plan on the vehicle being off the road for a minimum of two weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an automotive machine shop for repair or reconditioning. Check on availability of parts, and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand tools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required, for inspecting parts to determine if they must be replaced. Often, an automotive machine shop will handle the inspection of parts, and will offer advice concerning reconditioning and replacement.

Note: Always wait until the engine has been completely dismantled, and all components, especially the cylinder block/crankcase, have been inspected, before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an automotive machine shop. Since the block’s condition will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine or buy a rebuilt one, never purchase parts or have machine work done on other components until the cylinder block/crankcase has been thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time is the

primary cost of an overhaul, so it doesn’t pay to install worn or sub-standard parts.

As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, everything must be assembled with care, in a spotlessly-clean environment.

3 Engine removal -

methods and precautions

If you’ve decided that an engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the vehicle, will be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface made of concrete or asphalt is required.

Cleaning the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure will help keep tools clean and organised.

On two of the engines covered in this manual, the unit can only be withdrawn by removing it complete with the transmission; the vehicle’s body must be raised and supported securely, sufficiently high that the engine/transmission can be unbolted as a single unit and lowered to the ground; the engine/transmission unit can then be withdrawn from under the vehicle and separated. On all engines, an engine hoist or A-frame will be necessary. Make sure the

equipment is rated in excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission. Safety is of primary importance, considering the potential hazards involved in removing the engine/transmission from the vehicle.

If this is the first time you have removed an engine, a helper should ideally be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when removing the engine/ transmission from the vehicle.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange for, or obtain, all of the tools and equipment you’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine/transmission removal and installation safely and with relative ease, and which may have to be hired or borrowed, includes (in addition to the engine hoist) a heavy-duty trolley jack, a strong pair of axle stands, some wooden blocks, and an engine dolly (a low, wheeled platform capable of taking the weight of the engine/transmission, so that it can be moved easily when on the ground). A complete set of spanners and sockets (as described in “Tools and working facilities” at the rear of this manual) will obviously be needed, together with plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping-up spilled oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist is to be hired, make sure that you arrange for it in advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time.

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for quite a while. A machine shop will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer can’t accomplish without special equipment. These establishments often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consult them before removing the engine, to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work.

Always be extremely careful when removing and installing the engine/transmission. Serious injury can result from careless actions. By planning ahead and taking your time, the job (although a major task) can be accomplished successfully.

4 Engine - removal and refitting

(HCS engine)

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs, in or near the work area, and don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy, and know how to use it.

Note: Read through the entire Section, as well as reading the advice in the preceding Section, before beginning this procedure. The engine is removed separately from the transmission and is lifted upwards and out of the engine compartment.

Removal

1 On fuel-injected engines, refer to Chapter 4B and depressurise the fuel system. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 3 Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the coolant and engine oil. Refit the drain plug to the sump on completion. 4 Remove the bonnet as described in Chapter 11. Position it out of the way in a safe place where it will not get damaged. 5 Remove the air cleaner unit as described in Chapter 4. 6 Release the retaining clips and detach the following coolant hoses. Allow for coolant spillage as the hoses are detached, note their routing, and position them out of the way (see illustrations):

a) All hoses at the thermostat housing. b) Bottom hose from the radiator to the

water pump.

c) Heater hoses at the bulkhead and water

pump.

d) Inlet manifold coolant supply hose (where

applicable).

7 Disconnect the fuel trap vacuum hose from the inlet manifold.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•7

4.6B Disconnect the bottom hose (A) and the heater hose (B) from the water pump

4.6A Disconnect the overflow hose (A) and the top hose (B) from the thermostat

housing

8 Disconnect the brake servo unit vacuum hose from the inlet manifold, by pushing the hose retainer in towards the manifold and simultaneously pulling free the hose (see

illustration). 9 Refer to Chapter 4 for details, and

detach the accelerator cable. Where applicable, detach the choke cable from the carburettor. 10 Compress the quick-release couplings at the sides, and detach the fuel supply hose and return hose from the fuel pump or CFi unit (see illustration). Allow for fuel spillage as the hoses are disconnected, and plug the exposed ends to prevent further spillage and the ingress of dirt. Position the hoses out of the way. 11 Note their locations and disconnect the

wiring connectors from the following (see illustrations):

a) Coolant temperature gauge sender unit. b) The oil pressure switch. c) The radio earth lead. d) The cooling fan thermostatic switch. e) The DIS ignition coil. f) The crankshaft speed/position sensor. g) The engine coolant temperature sensor. h) The idle cut-off valve.

12 Apply the handbrake, then raise the vehicle at the front end and support it on axle stands. 13 Unscrew the retaining nuts, and detach the exhaust downpipe from the exhaust manifold. Remove the seal from the joint flange. 14 Refer to Chapter 5 for details, and remove the starter motor.

15 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove the clutch lower cover plate. 16 Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach the gearshift stabiliser from the transmission. 17 Unscrew and remove the engine/ transmission flange attachment bolts and also the bolt fitted from the front, securing the earth lead (from the underside) (see illustration). 18 Unscrew and remove the single bolt securing the engine mounting brace to the crossmember (see illustration). 19 Check that the appropriate underside attachments are disconnected and out of the way, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 20 Unbolt and remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold. 21 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine. It is possible to fabricate lifting eyes to connect the hoist to the engine, but make sure that they are strong enough, and connect them to the inlet and exhaust manifold at diagonallyopposite ends of the engine (see illustration). 22 With the hoist securely connected, take the weight of the engine, then unscrew the two retaining nuts to detach the engine mounting from the apron panel, and the single bolt to disconnect it at the mounting bracket (see illustration).

2D•8 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

4.22 Detach the engine mounting fixing at the points indicated

A Front apron panel bracket nuts B Mounting bracket C Bolt-to-engine bracket

4.21 Engine lifter and attachment

points (A) and M8 x 35 bolt location (B)

4.18 Mounting brace-to-crossmember bolt (arrowed)

4.17 Engine-to-transmission flange attachment bolts (arrowed)

4.11B Engine crankshaft speed/position sensor and multi-plug

4.11A Wiring connections to the HCS engine

A Idle cut-off valve B DIS ignition coil C Engine coolant temperature sensor D Oil pressure switch

4.10 Fuel supply (A) and return (B) hose connections at the fuel pump

4.8 Detach the servo vacuum hose from the manifold

23 Locate a jack under the transmission, and

raise it to take the weight of the transmission. 24 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-to-transmission retaining bolts on the upper flange. 25 Check around the engine to ensure that all of the relevant fixings and attachments are disconnected and out of the way for the removal. 26 Enlist the aid of an assistant, then move the engine forwards and away from the transmission, whilst simultaneously raising the transmission. When the engine is separated from the transmission, carefully guide it up and out of the engine compartment. Do not allow the weight of the engine to hang on the transmission input shaft at any point during the removal (or refitting) of the engine. When the engine sump is clear of the vehicle, swing the power unit out of the way, and lower it onto a trolley (if available). Unless a mobile hoist is being used, it will be necessary to move the vehicle rearwards and out of the way in order to allow the engine to be lowered for removal. In this instance, ensure that the weight of the transmission is well supported as the vehicle is moved. 27 While the engine is removed, check the mountings; renew them if they are worn or damaged. Similarly, check the condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that are normally hidden can now be checked properly, and should be renewed if there is any doubt at all about their condition. Also, take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch components (see Chapter 8). It is regarded by many as good working practice to renew the clutch assembly as a matter of course, whenever major engine overhaul work is carried out. Check also the condition of all components (such as the transmission oil seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any that are damaged or worn.

Refitting

28 Refitting is in general, a reversal of the removal procedure, but the following special points should be noted. 29 Before coupling the engine to the transmission, apply a thin smear of highmelting-point grease onto the transmission input shaft splines. If the clutch has been removed, ensure that the clutch disc is centralised, and

disconnect the clutch cable from the release lever on the transmission casing. 30 Tighten all fixings to their recommended torque wrench settings. 31 Check that the mating faces are clean, and fit a new exhaust downpipe-to-manifold gasket and self-locking nuts when reconnecting this joint. 32 Ensure that all wiring connections are correctly and securely made. 33 Remove the plugs from the fuel lines before reconnecting them correctly and securely. 34 Reconnect and adjust the accelerator and choke cables as described in Chapter 4. The refitting details for the air cleaner unit are also given in that Chapter. 35 Renew any coolant hoses (and/or retaining clips) that are not in good condition. 36 Refer to Chapter 8 for details on reconnecting the clutch cable. 37 When the engine is fully refitted, check that the various hoses are connected, and then top-up the engine oil and coolant levels as described in Chapter 1. 38 When engine refitting is completed, refer to Section 22 for the engine start-up procedures.

5 Engine/transmission -

removal and refitting (CVH engine)

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

Note: Read through the entire Section, as well as reading the advice in the preceding Section, before beginning this procedure. The engine and transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to the ground and removed from underneath, then separated outside the vehicle.

Removal

1 On all fuel-injected engines, refer to

Chapter 4B and depressurise the fuel system. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the coolant and the engine oil. Refit the drain plug to the sump on completion. 4 Refer to Chapter 11 for details, and remove the bonnet. Store it in a safe area where it will not get damaged. 5 Remove the air cleaner unit as described in Chapter 4. On 1.6 litre EFi fuel-injected models, remove the air inlet components and the complete air cleaner unit. 6 Release the retaining clips and detach the coolant top hose, the heater hose and the radiator overflow hose from the thermostat housing. Disconnect the coolant hose from the inlet manifold, and the bottom hose from the water pump and/or the radiator (see illustrations). On 1.4 litre CFi fuel-injected models, also disconnect the coolant hose from the injection unit. On 1.6 EFi models, detach the heater hose Y-connector. Allow for coolant spillage as the hoses are detached, note their routing, and position them out of the way. 7 Refer to Chapter 4 for details, and disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage and support/adjuster bracket. Where applicable, also disconnect the choke cable. Position the cable(s) out of the way. 8 On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel supply hose from the fuel pump, and the return hose from the carburettor. 9 On CFi models, detach the fuel hose at the injector/pressure regulator unit, and the return line, by compressing the couplings whilst pulling the hoses free from their connections. On EFi models, unscrew the union nut to detach the fuel line from the fuel rail; release the retaining clip to detach the return pipe from the pressure regulator. Plug the exposed ends of the hoses and connections, to prevent fuel spillage and the ingress of dirt. Position the hoses out of the way. 10 Press the clamp ring inwards, and simultaneously pull free the brake servo hose from the inlet manifold. Position it out of the way. 11 On CFi and EFi models, detach the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor, and the hose between the carbon canister and the fuel injection unit (see illustration).

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•9

5.11 Vacuum hose to MAP sensor (A) and brake servo (B)

5.6B Heater coolant hoses and Y-

connector on 1.6 litre EFi fuel-injected

models

5.6A Coolant hose connections to the thermostat (arrowed)

12 Note their connections and routings, and detach the following wiring connections, according to model:

a) Coolant temperature sender unit (see

illustration).

b) Oil pressure switch (see illustration). c) DIS ignition coil unit. d) Coolant temperature sensor. e) Cooling fan thermostatic switch. f) Carburettor. g) Earth lead (radio). h) Reversing light switch (from transmission). i) Crankshaft speed/position sensor (see

illustration).

j) Earth leads from the transmission and

engine.

Additional items specific to CFi and EFi

models only (see illustrations).

a) Inlet air temperature sensor. b) Vehicle speed sensor. c) Throttle plate control motor (CFi models). d) Throttle position sensor. e) Injector harness connector. f) Idle speed control valve (EFi models).

13 Unscrew the retaining bolt and detach the bracket locating the wiring and coolant hoses above the transmission. 14 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the transmission. 15 On manual transmission models, disconnect the clutch cable from the release lever at the transmission (see Chapter 8 for details). Position the cable out of the way.

16 Unscrew the two retaining bolts, and detach the engine/transmission mounting from the mounting bracket (see illustration). 17 Apply the handbrake, then raise and support the vehicle at the front end on axle stands. Allow sufficient clearance under the vehicle to withdraw the engine and transmission units from under the front end. 18 Where applicable on catalytic converterequipped vehicles, release the multi-plug from the bracket and disconnect the wiring connector from the oxygen sensor in the exhaust downpipe (see illustration). 19 Undo the three retaining bolts, detach the exhaust downpipe from the manifold, and collect the gasket from the flange joint (see illustration). Now disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the rest of the system, and remove it from the vehicle. Where applicable, disconnect the pulse-air supply hose from the check valve. Noting their connections (to ensure correct reassembly), detach the appropriate system vacuum hoses at the PVS (three-port vacuum switch) under the inlet manifold. 20 Where fitted, undo the four retaining nuts and two bolts securing the front part of the exhaust heat shield to the floor, then remove the heat shield (see illustration). 21 Note their connections, and detach the wiring from the starter motor and the alternator. Unbolt and remove the starter motor.

2D•10 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

5.18 Wiring connections to the oxygen sensor (A) and starter motor (B)

5.16 Engine/transmission mounting bracket bolts (arrowed)

5.12E Wiring connections to the CFi unit on the 1.4 litre engine

A Coolant temperature sensor B Throttle plate control motor C Throttle position sensor D Injector

5.12D Engine and associated component wiring plug connections

A Main wiring loom B Road speed sensor unit C DIS ignition coil D Reversing light switch

E Cooling fan temperature sensor

F Temperature gauge sender G Engine speed/crankshaft position sensor H Throttle position sensor

I Idle speed control valve

J Coolant temperature sensor K Intake air temperature sensor

L Oil pressure switch

5.12C . . . and the crankshaft speed/position sensor

5.12B . . . the oil pressure switch . . .5.12A Disconnect the wiring at the

temperature gauge sender unit . . .

Manual transmission models

22 Select fourth gear, to assist in correct

adjustment of the gearchange during reassembly. If it is likely that the gear lever will be moved from this position before refitting, mark the relative position of the transmission shift rod and the selector shaft before separating them. Undo the clamp bolt, and then pull free and detach the shift rod from the selector shaft (see illustration). 23 Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach the shift rod stabiliser from the transmission. As it is detached, note the washer located between the stabiliser and the transmission. Tie the stabiliser and the shift rod up out of the way.

Automatic transmission models

24 Unclip and detach the wiring connector

from the starter inhibitor switch (on the transmission housing). 25 Referring to Chapter 4 for details, unhook the accelerator (cam plate) cable from the carburettor or fuel injection unit (as applicable) at the transmission end of the cable. Undo the retaining bolt and detach the cable sheath bracket from the transmission. Detach the cam plate cable from the link. 26 Undo the two nuts from the selector cable bracket which connects it to the lever on the selector shaft. Disconnect the yoke from the lever on the selector shaft and the cable from the lever.

27 Unscrew the union nuts, and disconnect the oil cooler feed and return pipes from the transmission. Allow for a certain amount of spillage, and plug the connections to prevent the ingress of dirt.

All models

28 Note the direction of fitting, unscrew the

retaining nut and withdraw the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each side. 29 Refer to Chapter 10 for details, and detach the right-hand track rod end balljoint from the spindle carrier. 30 Insert a suitable lever between the righthand driveshaft inner joint and the transmission housing, and prise free the driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared for oil spillage from the transmission case through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it is being prised free, simultaneously pull the roadwheel outwards on that side, to enable the driveshaft inboard end to separate from the transmission. Once it is free, suspend and support the driveshaft from the steering gear, to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on the driveshaft joints. The outer joint must not be angled in excess of 45º, the inner joint no more than 20º, or the joints may be damaged. Refer to Chapter 8 for further details if necessary. 31 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if available, an old driveshaft joint), into the

transmission driveshaft aperture, to immobilise the gears of the differential unit. 32 Proceed as described above in paragraphs 29 to 31, and disconnect the lefthand driveshaft from the transmission. 33 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove the brace between the transmission left front mounting bracket and the transmission flange

(see illustration). 34 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to the engine, connecting to the lifting eyes (see illustration). When securely connected, take

the weight of the engine/transmission unit so that the tension is relieved from the mountings. 35 Unscrew the two retaining bolts, and detach the transmission front mounting from the side member. 36 Unscrew the three retaining bolts, and remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover from under the crankshaft pulley. 37 Unscrew the two retaining nuts, and detach the right-hand engine mounting from the suspension strut mounting. On EFi engines, remove the MAP sensor (see

illustration). 38 The engine/transmission unit should now

be ready for removal from the vehicle. Check that all of the associated connections and fittings are disconnected from the engine and transmission, and positioned out of the way. 39 Enlist the aid of an assistant to help steady and guide the power unit down

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•11

5.22 Manual transmission shift rod clamp bolt (A), stabiliser-to-transmission bolt (B)

and washer (C)

5.20 Exhaust system heat shield, showing securing nut and bolt locations

5.37 Right-hand engine mounting bracket and MAP sensor on EFi models

5.34 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to the engine, connecting to the lifting

eyes

5.33 Remove the brace between the

transmission left front mounting bracket

and the transmission flange

5.19 Exhaust downpipe-to-manifold flange and securing bolts

through the engine compartment as it is removed. If available, position a suitable engine trolley or crawler board under the engine/transmission so that when lowered, the power unit can be withdrawn from the front end of the vehicle, and then moved to the area where it is to be cleaned and dismantled. On automatic transmission models, particular care must be taken not to damage the transmission fluid pan (sump) during the removal and subsequent refitting processes. 40 Carefully lower the engine and transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings become snagged. Detach the hoist and remove the power unit from under the vehicle

(see illustration). 41 Referring to the relevant Part of Chap-

ter 7, separate the transmission from the engine. 42 While the engine/transmission is removed, check the mountings; renew them if they are worn or damaged. Similarly, check the condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses and pipes (see Chapter 1). Components that are normally hidden can now be checked properly, and should be renewed if there is any doubt at all about their condition. Where the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, take the opportunity to inspect the clutch components (see Chapter 8). It is regarded by many as good working practice to renew the clutch assembly as a matter of course, whenever major engine overhaul work is carried out. Check also the condition of all components (such as the transmission oil seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any that are damaged or worn.

Refitting

43 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however note the following additional points:

a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and

Sections as for removal.

b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the

inboard end of the right- and left-hand driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines with transmission oil prior to fitting.

c) Renew the exhaust flange gasket when

reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all wires are routed clear of the exhaust system and, on catalytic converter

models, ensure that the heat shields are securely and correctly fitted.

d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are

clean and securely made.

e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque.

f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and

transmission with oil, with reference to Chapter 1.

g) Refill the cooling system with reference to

Chapter 1.

44 When engine and transmission refitting is complete, refer to the procedures described in Section 22 before restarting the engine.

6 Engine/transmission -

removal and refitting

(Zetec engine)

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra

precautions when disconnecting any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs, in or near the work area, and don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy, and know how to use it.

Removal

1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake firmly, and slacken the nuts securing both front roadwheels. 2 Depressurise the fuel system as described in Chapter 4B. 3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 4 Place protective covers on the wings, then remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11). 5 Drain the cooling system and the engine oil

(see Chapter 1). Also drain the transmission (MTX-75 type only) as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 7. 6 Whenever you disconnect any vacuum lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring loom connectors, earth straps and fuel lines as part of the following procedure, always label them clearly, so that they can be correctly reassembled. Take instant photos, or sketch the locations of components and brackets.

7 Remove the air inlet components and the complete air cleaner unit as described in Chapter 4B. 8 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by removing the filler cap, then release the fuel feed and return quick-release couplings, and pull the hoses off the fuel pipes. Plug or cap all open fittings. 9 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4B. Secure the cable clear of the engine/ transmission. 10 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the power steering pressure switch electrical connector, then disconnect the earth cable from the engine lifting eye. Refit the bolt after disconnecting the cable. 11 Marking or labelling all components as they are disconnected (see paragraph 6 above), disconnect the vacuum hoses as follows:

a) From the rear of the inlet manifold. b) The braking system vacuum servo unit

hose - from the inlet manifold (see Chapter 9 for details).

c) While you are there, trace the vacuum line

from the pulse-air filter housing, and disconnect it from the pulse-air solenoid valve.

d) Secure all these hoses so that they won’t

get damaged as the engine/transmission is removed.

12 Unbolt the engine/transmission-to-body earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Disconnect the speedometer drive cable (see Chapter 12) and secure it clear of the engine/transmission. 13 Disconnect the earth strap at the top of the engine/transmission flange, and the adjacent bolt securing the wiring harness clip.

2D•12 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

6.12 Unbolt the engine/transmission-tobody earth lead from the transmission

5.40 Removing the engine/transmission from under the vehicle

Masking tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator work well for marking items.

14 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, disconnect the clutch cable (see Chapter 8). 15 Marking or labelling all components as they are disconnected (see paragraph 5 above), disconnect the engine wiring connectors as follows:

a) The multi-plug from the DIS ignition coil

(see illustration).

b) The radio interference suppressor from

the DIS ignition coil (see illustration).

c) The reversing light switch multi-plug (see

illustration).

d) The engine main wiring loom multi-plug

behind the DIS ignition coil.

e) The crankshaft speed/position sensor and

vehicle speed sensor multi-plugs.

f) The oxygen sensor multi-plug.

16 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield, and lift it clear. 17 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 18 Marking or labelling all components as they are disconnected (see paragraph 6 above) and catching as much as possible of the escaping coolant in the drain tray, disconnect the cooling system hoses and pipes as follows - refer to Chapter 3 for further details, if required:

a) The coolant hoses at the thermostat

housing.

b) The coolant hose at the metal cross pipe

lower connection.

c) The radiator top and bottom hoses.

19 Undo the nut securing the power steering pump pressure pipe clip to the timing belt cover. Release the unions and clips, and disconnect the pump pressure and return lines. Collect the fluid in a suitable container, and plug the disconnected unions. Lift the power steering fluid reservoir out of its bracket, and move it clear of the engine. 20 Apply the handbrake, then raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands, then remove the front roadwheels. 21 Refer to Chapter 5 if necessary, and disconnect the wiring from the starter motor and alternator. 22 Disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring connector. 23 On automatic transmission models, disconnect the starter inhibitor switch wiring and disconnect the selector cable (see Chapter 7B). Secure the cable clear of the engine/transmission. 24 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, disconnect the gearchange linkage and transmission support rod from the rear of the transmission - make alignment marks as they are disconnected (see

illustrations). 25 On automatic transmission models, clean

around the unions, then disconnect the fluid pipes from the transmission. Plug the openings in the transmission and the pipe unions after removal. 26 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaust system front downpipe from the

manifold (see illustration). Undo the nuts securing the catalytic converter to the rear part of the exhaust system, and remove the converter and downpipe assembly. 27 Where the vehicle is fitted with air conditioning, refer to Chapter 3 and disconnect any components that are likely to impede removal of the engine/transmission from below.

Warning: Do not disconnect the refrigerant hoses.

28 Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from their respective suspension struts, and both track rod end ball joints from their spindle carriers (see Chapter 10). 29 Noting the direction of fitting, unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each side. 30 Insert a suitable lever between the righthand driveshaft inner joint and the transmission housing, and prise free the driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared for oil spillage from the transmission case through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it is being prised free, simultaneously pull the roadwheel outwards on that side to enable the driveshaft inboard end to separate from the transmission. Once it is free, suspend and support the driveshaft from the steering gear, to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on the driveshaft joints. The outer joint must not be angled in excess of 45∞, the inner joint no

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•13

6.15C . . . and the reversing light switch6.15B . . . the radio interference

suppressor . . .

6.15A Disconnect the wiring multi-plug (arrowed) from the ignition coil ..

6.26 Disconnect the exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold

6.24B . . . and transmission support rod6.24A Disconnect the gearchange

linkage . . .

more than 20º. Refer to Chapter 8 for further details if necessary. 31 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if available, an old driveshaft joint), into the transmission driveshaft aperture, to immobilise the gears of the differential unit. 32 Proceed as described above in paragraphs 30 and 31, and disconnect the left-hand driveshaft from the transmission. 33 Remove the oil filter, referring to Chapter 1 if necessary. 34 Undo the two upper bolts and one lower bolt, and remove the right-hand engine mounting support brace. 35 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to the engine, connecting to the lift eyes. When securely connected, take the weight of the engine/transmission unit so that the tension is relieved from the mountings. 36 From above, undo the two bolts securing the left-hand rear mounting to the transmission bracket. 37 Undo the two nuts securing the right-hand mounting to the body adjacent to the suspension strut tower. 38 Undo the two bolts securing the left-hand front mounting to the body side member. 39 The engine/transmission unit should now be hanging on the hoist only, with all components which connect it to the rest of the vehicle disconnected or removed, and secured well clear of the unit. Make a final check that this is the case. 40 Lower the engine/transmission to the ground, and withdraw it from under the vehicle (see illustration). 41 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7, separate the transmission from the engine. 42 While the engine/transmission is removed, check the mountings; renew them if they are worn or damaged. Similarly, check the condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that are normally hidden can now be checked properly, and should be renewed if there is any doubt at all about their condition. Where the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch components (see Chapter 8). It is regarded by many as good working practice to renew the clutch assembly as a matter of course, whenever major engine overhaul work is

carried out. Check also the condition of all components (such as the transmission oil seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any that are damaged or worn.

Refitting

43 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however note the following additional points:

a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and

Sections as for removal.

b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the

inboard end of the right- and left-hand driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines with transmission oil prior to fitting.

c) Renew the exhaust flange gaskets when

reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all wires are routed clear of the exhaust system, and that the heat shields are securely and correctly fitted.

d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are

clean and securely made.

e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque.

f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and

transmission with oil, with reference to Chapter 1.

g) Refill the cooling system with reference to

Chapter 1.

h) Bleed the power steering system with

reference to Chapter 10.

44 When engine and transmission refitting is complete, refer to the procedures described in Section 22 before restarting the engine.

7 Engine overhaul -

dismantling sequence

1 The engine dismantling and reassembly tasks are made easier if the engine is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can be hired from a tool hire shop. Before mounting the engine on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate must first be removed, to enable the engine-to-stand fixing bolts to be fitted. 2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to dismantle the engine with it suitably supported on a strong workbench or on the floor. Be careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If a reconditioned engine is to be fitted, all external components of the original engine must be removed in order to transfer them to the replacement unit (just as they will if you are doing a complete engine rebuild). These components include the following:

a) Alternator and mounting brackets. b) DIS ignition coil unit (and mounting

bracket), HT leads and spark plugs. c) The thermostat and housing cover. d) Carburettor/fuel injection system

components. e) Inlet and exhaust manifolds. f) Oil filter. g) Fuel pump. h) Engine mountings.

i) Flywheel/driveplate. j) Water pump. Note: When removing the external components from the engine, pay close attention to details that may be helpful or important during refitting. Note the fitted positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and other small items.

4 If you are obtaining a short motor (which consists of the cylinder block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods all assembled), the cylinder head, sump, oil pump and timing chain/belt will have to be removed also. 5 If a complete overhaul is planned, the engine can be dismantled and the internal components removed in the following order:

a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds. b) Timing chain/belt, tensioner and

sprockets. c) Cylinder head. d) Flywheel/driveplate. e) Sump. f) Oil pump. g) Pistons (with connecting rods). h) Crankshaft. i) Camshaft and tappets (HCS engine).

6 Before starting the dismantling and overhaul procedures, make sure that you have all of the correct tools for the jobs to tackled. Refer to the introductory pages at the start of this manual for further information.

8 Cylinder head - dismantling

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder heads are available from the manufacturers, and from engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact that some specialist tools are required for the dismantling and inspection procedures, and new components may not be readily available (refer to Section 1), it may be more practical and economical for the home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned head, rather than to dismantle, inspect and recondition the original head.

HCS engine

1 Unscrew and remove the five retaining bolts, and lift off the inlet manifold (complete with carburettor). Remove the inlet manifoldto-cylinder head gasket. 2 Unscrew and remove the eight retaining nuts, and lift off the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head. Remove the exhaust manifoldto-cylinder head gasket. 3 Unscrew and remove the temperature gauge sender unit. 4 To remove the valve springs and valves from the cylinder head, a standard valve spring compressor will required. Fit the spring compressor to the first valve and spring to be removed. Assuming that all of the valves and springs are to be removed, start by compressing the No 1 valve (nearest the timing cover end) spring. Take care not to

2D•14 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

6.40 Removing the engine/transmission unit from under the car

damage the valve stem with the compressor, and do not over-compress the spring, or the valve stem may bend. When tightening the compressor, it may be found that the spring retainer does not release and the collets are then difficult to remove. In this instance, remove the compressor, then press a piece of tube (or a socket of suitable diameter) so that it does not interfere with the removal of the collets, against the retainer’s outer rim. Tap the tube (or socket) with a hammer to unsettle the components. 5 Refit the compressor, and wind it in to enable the collets to be extracted (see

illustration). 6 Loosen off the compressor, and remove the

retainer and spring. Withdraw the valve from the cylinder head (see illustrations).

7 Prise up and remove the valve stem seal (see illustration). 8 Repeat the removal procedure with each of

the remaining seven valve assemblies in turn. As they are removed, keep the individual valves and their components together, and in their respective order of fitting, by placing them in a separate labelled bag (see illustration).

CVH engine

9 Remove the camshaft, rocker arms and tappets as described in Part B of this Chapter, being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as described.

10 Valve removal should commence with No 1 valve (nearest the timing belt end). 11 Compress the valve spring of the No 1 valve using a suitable valve compressor. A conventional valve spring compressor will be ideal, but if preferred, a forked tool (Part No 21-097) can be purchased or fabricated. The tool engages on the rocker stud, and a nut and distance piece are used to compress it and the valve spring (see illustration). 12 Compress the valve spring (and upper retainer) just enough to enable the split collets to be released from the groove in the top of the valve stem, then separate and extract the split collets from the valve. Do not compress the spring any further than is necessary, or the valve stem may bend. If the valve spring retainer does not release from the collets as the spring is compressed, remove the compressor, and position a piece of suitable tube over the end of the retainer, so that it does not impinge on the collets. Place a small block of wood under the valve head (with the head resting face down on the workbench), then tap the end of the tube with a hammer. Now refit the compressor tool, and compress the valve spring. The collets should release. 13 Extract the split collets, then slowly unscrew, release and remove the compressor. 14 Withdraw the upper retainer and the valve spring from the valve stem, then remove the valve from the underside of the cylinder head. Use a suitable screwdriver to prise free and

remove the valve stem oil seal from the guide.

15 Remove the lower retainer. 16 Repeat the removal procedure with each

of the remaining valve assemblies in turn. As they are removed, keep the valves and their associated components together, and in the originally-installed order, by placing them in a separate labelled bag (see illustration 8.8).

Zetec engine

17 Remove the camshafts and hydraulic tappets (Part C of this Chapter, Section 13), being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as described. 18 Remove the cylinder head (Part C of this Chapter, Section 14). 19 Using a valve spring compressor, compress each valve spring in turn until the split collets can be removed. A special valve spring compressor will be required, to reach into the deep wells in the cylinder head without risk of damaging the hydraulic tappet bores; such compressors are now widely available from most good motor accessory shops. Release the compressor, and lift off the spring upper seat and spring (see

illustrations). 20 If, when the valve spring compressor is

screwed down, the spring upper seat refuses to free and expose the split collets, gently tap the top of the tool, directly over the upper seat, with a light hammer. This will free the seat.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•15

8.6B . . . followed by the valve8.6A Remove the valve spring retainer and

spring . . .

8.5 Compress the valve spring to remove the collets

8.11 Compressing a valve spring using a forked type compressor

8.8 Use a labelled plastic bag to store and identify valve components

8.7 Prise off the valve stem oil seal

21 Withdraw the valve through the combustion chamber. If it binds in the guide (won’t pull through), push it back in, and deburr the area around the collet groove with a fine file or whetstone; take care not to mark the hydraulic tappet bores. 22 Ford recommend the use of their service tool 21-160 to extract the valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals; while this is almost indispensable if the seals are to be removed without risk of (extremely expensive) damage to the cylinder head, we found that a serviceable substitute can be made from a strong spring of suitable size. Screw on the tool or spring so that it bites into the seal, then draw the seal off the valve guide (see

illustrations). 23 It is essential that the valves are kept

together with their collets, spring seats and springs, and in their correct sequence (unless they are so badly worn that they are to be

renewed). If they are going to be kept and used again, place them in a labelled polythene bag or similar small container (see illus- tration 8.8). Note that No 1 valve is nearest to the timing belt end of the engine. 24 If the oil-retaining valve is to be removed (to flush out the cylinder head oil galleries thoroughly), seek the advice of a Ford dealer as to how it can be extracted; it may be that the only course of action involves destroying the valve as follows. Screw a self-tapping screw into its ventilation hole, and use the screw to provide purchase with which the valve can be drawn out; a new valve must be purchased and pressed into place on reassembly (see illustration).

9 Cylinder head and valve

components - cleaning and

inspection

Note: Always check first what replacement parts are available before planning any overhaul operation; refer to Section 1. A Ford dealer, or a good engine reconditioning specialist/automotive parts supplier, may be able to suggest alternatives which will enable you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.

1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and valve components, followed by a detailed inspection, will enable you to decide how much valve service work must be carried out during the engine overhaul. Note: If the

engine has been severely overheated, it is best to assume that the cylinder head is warped, and to check carefully for signs of this.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket material and sealing compound from the cylinder head. 3 Scrape away the carbon from the combustion chambers and ports, then wash the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a suitable solvent. 4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a power-operated wire brush to remove deposits from the valve heads and stems.

Inspection

Note: Be sure to perform all the following inspection procedures before concluding that the services of a machine shop or engine overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of all items that require attention.

Cylinder head

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,

evidence of coolant leakage, and other damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder head should be obtained. 6 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to check that the cylinder head gasket surface is not distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may be possible to re-surface it.

2D•16 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

9.6 Check the cylinder head gasket surfaces for warpage, in the planes

indicated (A to G). Try to slip a feeler gauge under the precision straight edge (see the Specifications for the maximum

distortion allowed, and use a feeler blade

of that thickness)

8.24 Cylinder head oil-retaining valve (arrowed)

8.22B . . . can be replaced by home-made tool if suitable spring can be found

8.22A Ford service tool in use to remove valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals . . .

8.19C . . . so that both valve split collets can be removed from the valve’s stem -

small magnetic pick-up tool prevents loss

of small metal components on removal

and refitting

8.19B . . . or purpose-built special version, is required to compress valve springs

without damaging cylinder head . . .

8.19A Standard valve spring compressor modified as shown . . .

7 Examine the valve seats in each of the

combustion chambers. If they are severely pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this can be removed by grinding-in the valve heads and seats with fine valve-grinding compound, as described below. 8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a side-to-side motion of the valve, new guides must be fitted. Measure the diameter of the existing valve stems (see below) and the bore of the guides, then calculate the clearance, and compare the result with the specified value; if the clearance is excessive, renew the valves or guides as necessary. 9 The renewal of valve guides is best carried out by an engine overhaul specialist. 10 If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this must be done only after the guides have been renewed.

Valves

11 Examine the head of each valve for

pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, and check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits and excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 12 If the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the valve stem diameter at several points, using a micrometer (see illustration). Any significant difference in the readings obtained indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 13 If the valves are in satisfactory condition, they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats, to ensure a smooth gastight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should not be used unless a seat is badly burned or deeply pitted; if this is the case, the cylinder head and valves should be inspected by an expert, to decide whether seat re-

cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or seat insert, is required. 14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside-down on a bench, with a block of wood at each end to give clearance for the valve stems. 15 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face, and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding compound (see illustration). A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. 16 If coarse grinding compound is being used, work only until a dull, matt even surface is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, then wipe off the used compound, and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind in the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 17 When all the valves have been ground-in, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound, using paraffin or a suitable solvent, before reassembly of the cylinder head.

Valve components

18 Examine the valve springs for signs of

damage and discolouration, and also measure

their free length (see illustration). If possible, compare each of the existing springs with a new component. 19 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and check it for squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted, or have lost their tension, obtain a complete set of new springs. 20 Check the spring upper seats and collets for obvious wear and cracks. Any questionable parts should be renewed, as extensive damage will occur if they fail during engine operation. Any damaged or excessively-worn parts must be renewed; the valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must be renewed as a matter of course whenever they are disturbed. 21 Check the rocker gear components and hydraulic tappets as described in earlier parts of this Chapter according to engine type.

10 Cylinder head - reassembly

1 Before reassembling the cylinder head, ensure that it is perfectly clean, and no traces of grinding paste are left in the head or on the valves and guides. Use compressed air, if available, to blow out all the oil holes and passages. 2 Commence reassembly of the cylinder head by lubricating the valve stems and guides with clean engine oil.

HCS engine

3 Insert the first valve into its guide. Wipe the oil from the top of the valve stem, then wind some insulation tape over the split collet location groove, to protect the new valve stem seal as it is fitted over the valve and into position. As the seal is fitted, support the valve to prevent it from falling out; push the seal down the valve, and locate it flush to the valve guide. Press the seal down firmly and evenly using a suitable diameter tube or socket, and take care not to distort the seal as it is located. Check that the seal spring is correctly located to ensure that it seals correctly, then remove the tape from the valve stem (see illustrations). 4 Locate the valve spring and its retainer over the valve stem, and engage the valve spring

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•17

9.15 Grinding-in a valve seat - do not grind in the valves any more than absolutely

necessary, or their seats will be

prematurely sunk into the cylinder head

9.12 Measuring the diameter of a valve

stem - if any significant difference is found

in the readings obtained, excessive valve

stem wear is indicated

10.3A Tape the end of the valve stem before fitting the valve stem seal

9.18 Checking the valve spring free length

compressor. Compress the spring and retainer just enough to allow the split collets to be inserted in the location groove in the valve stem. Holding the collets in position, slowly release and remove the valve spring compressor.

5 Repeat the operation on the remaining valves, ensuring that each valve is fitted in its appropriate location. 6 On completion, support the cylinder head on a suitable piece of wood, and lightly strike the end of each valve stem in turn with a

plastic- or copper-faced hammer to fractionally open the valve and seat the valve components.

CVH engine

7 Working on one valve at a time, fit the lower retainer into position (see illustration). 8 Check for correct orientation, then fit the new oil seal into position over the guide. Drive or press the seal squarely into place, using a suitable tube or socket (see illustration). 9 To protect the seal lips from being damaged by the collet grooves in the valve stem as it is passed through the seal, wipe any oil from the stem at the top, and mask the split collet groove on the stem with insulating tape. Lubricate the lips of the valve stem seal, and insert the valve (see illustration). 10 Remove the tape from the grooved section of the valve stem, then locate the spring and the upper retainer over the valve

(see illustrations). 11 Locate the valve spring compressor into

position, and compress the spring and cup down the valve stem so that the collet’s groove is exposed above the upper retainer. Lightly grease the collet’s groove in the stem, (to retain the collets in position) then locate the split collets into the groove in the stem. Slowly release and remove the valve spring compressor. As the compressor is released, ensure that the collets remain fully seated in the groove, and the upper retainer rides up

over them to secure them in position (see

illustration). 12 Repeat the above operations on the

remaining valves, ensuring that each valve assembly is returned to its original position, or where new valves have been fitted, onto the seat to which it was ground. 13 When all of the valves have been fitted, support the cylinder head on a wooden block, and using a plastic or copper-faced hammer, lightly tap the end of each valve stem in turn to seat the respective valve assemblies. 14 Refit the camshaft, tappets and rocker arms to the cylinder head as described in Section 13 of Part B.

Zetec engine

15 Beginning at one end of the head, lubricate and install the first valve. Apply molybdenum disulphide-based grease or clean engine oil to the valve stem, and refit the valve. Where the original valves are being reused, ensure that each is refitted in its original guide. If new valves are being fitted, insert them into the locations to which they have been ground. 16 Fit the plastic protector supplied with new valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals to the end of the valve stem, then put the new seal squarely on top of the guide, and leave it there; the action of refitting the valve spring

2D•18 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

10.11 Insert the split collets into the groove in the valve stem

10.10B . . . and the retainer10.10A Fit the spring . . .

10.9 Insert the valve . . .

10.8 Locate the seal, and tap it into position over the guide

10.7 Fit the lower retainer10.3B Press the seal into position using a

suitable socket

A little grease applied to the collet groove will help retain them in position.

presses the lower seat/stem oil seal into place

(see illustration). 17 Refit the valve spring and upper seat. 18 Compress the spring with a valve spring

compressor, and carefully install the collets in the stem groove. Apply a small dab of grease to each collet to hold it in place if necessary (see illustration). Slowly release the compressor, and make sure the collets seat properly. 19 When the valve is installed, place the cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a hammer and interposed block of wood, tap the end of the valve stem gently, to settle the components. 20 Repeat the procedure for the remaining valves. Be sure to return the components to their original locations - don’t mix them up! 21 Refit the hydraulic tappets (Part C of this Chapter, Section 13).

11 Camshaft and tappets -

removal, inspection and refitting (HCS engine)

Removal

1 Remove the cylinder head as described in Part A, Section 10. 2 Remove the timing chain and the camshaft sprocket as described in Part A, Section 13. 3 Remove the sump as described in Part A, Section 14.

4 Invert the engine so that it is supported on its cylinder head face (on a clean work area). This is necessary to make all of the tappets slide to the top of their stroke, thus allowing the camshaft to be withdrawn. Rotate the camshaft through a full turn, to ensure that all of the tappets slide up their bores, clear of the camshaft. 5 Before removing the camshaft, check its endfloat using a dial gauge mounted on the front face of the engine or feeler gauges. Pull the camshaft fully towards the front (timing case) end of the engine, then insert feeler gauges between the camshaft sprocket flange and the camshaft thrust plate to assess the endfloat clearance (see illustration). The camshaft endfloat must be as specified. 6 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove the camshaft thrust plate. 7 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the front end of the engine (see illustration). 8 Extract each tappet in turn. Keep them in order of fitting by inserting them in a card with eight holes in it, numbered 1 to 8 (from the timing case end of the engine). A valve grinding tool will be found to be useful for the removal of tappets (see illustration).

Inspection

9 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and lobes for damage or excessive wear. If evident, the camshaft must be renewed.

10 Examine the camshaft bearing internal diameters for signs of damage or excessive wear. If evident, the bearings must be renewed by a Ford dealer. 11 If not carried out on removal, check the camshaft endfloat as described in paragraph 5. If the endfloat is exceeds the specified tolerance, renew the thrust plate. 12 It is seldom that the tappets wear excessively in their bores, but it is likely that after a high mileage, the cam lobe contact surfaces will show signs of depression or grooving. 13 Where this condition is evident, renew the tappets. Grinding out the grooves and wear marks will reduce the thickness of the surface hardening, and will accelerate further wear.

Refitting

14 To refit the tappets and the camshaft, it is essential that the crankcase is inverted. 15 Lubricate their bores and the tappets. Insert each tappet fully into its original bore in the cylinder block. 16 Lubricate the camshaft bearings, camshaft and thrust plate, then insert the camshaft into the crankcase from the timing case end. 17 Fit the thrust plate and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque setting (see illustration). Check that the camshaft is able to rotate freely, and that the endfloat is as specified.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•19

11.5 Checking the camshaft endfloat10.18 Apply a small dab of grease to each collet before installation - it will hold them in place on the valve stem until the spring

is released

10.16 Valve spring pressure is sufficient to seat lower seat/stem oil seals on

reassembly

11.17 Refitting the camshaft thrust plate11.8 Tappet withdrawal using a valve

grinding tool suction cup

11.7 Withdrawing the camshaft from the front of the engine

12 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies - removal

HCS engine

1 Remove the cylinder head as described in Part A, Section 10. 2 Remove the sump as described in Part A, Section 14, then remove the oil pick-up pipe and strainer. 3 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so that the crankshaft can be rotated. Check that the connecting rod big-end caps have adjacent matching numbers facing towards the camshaft side of the engine. If no marks can be seen, make your own before disturbing any of the components, so that you can be certain of refitting each piston/connecting rod assembly the right way round, to its correct (original) bore, with the cap also the right way round.

CVH engine

4 Remove the cylinder head as described in Part B, Section 14. 5 Remove the sump as described in Part B, Section 15, then remove the oil pick-up pipe and strainer. 6 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so that the crankshaft can be rotated. Check that the connecting rods have identification numbers - these should be found on the exhaust side of the big-ends. No 1 assembly is at the timing belt end of the engine. If no marks can be seen, make your own before disturbing any of the components, so that you can be certain of refitting each piston/connecting rod assembly the right way round, to its correct (original) bore, with the cap also the right way round.

Zetec engine

Note: While this task is theoretically possible when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in practice, it requires so much preliminary dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due to the restricted access, that owners are advised to remove the engine from the vehicle first. In addition to the new gaskets and other replacement parts required, a hoist will be needed. Alternatively, an adjustable engine support bar, fitting into the water drain channels on each side of the bonnet aperture, and having a hook which will engage the engine lifting eyes and allow the height of the engine to be adjusted, could be used. Lifting equipment such as this can be hired from most tool hire shops - be sure that any such equipment is rated well in excess of the combined weight of the engine/transmission unit.

7 Remove the cylinder head as described in Part C, Section 14. 8 Bolt lifting eyes to suitable points on the engine and transmission, then attach the lifting equipment so that the engine/ transmission unit is supported securely. 9 Remove the sump as described in Part C, Section 15. 10 Undo the screws securing the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then unscrew the four nuts, and withdraw the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle (see

illustration). 11 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so

that the crankshaft can be rotated. Note that each piston/connecting rod assembly can be identified by its cylinder number (counting from the timing belt end of the engine) etched into the flat-machined surface of both the connecting rod and its cap. The numbers are visible from the front (exhaust side) of the engine (see illustration). Furthermore, each piston has an arrow stamped into its crown, pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine. If no marks can be seen, make your own before disturbing any of the components, so that you can be certain of refitting each piston/connecting rod assembly the right way round, to its correct (original) bore, with the cap also the right way round.

All engines

12 Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has formed at the upper limit of ring travel (about a quarter-inch down from the top of each cylinder). If carbon deposits or cylinder wear have produced ridges, they must be completely removed with a special tool. Follow the tool manufacturer’s instructions provided. Failure to remove the ridges before attempting to remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies may result in piston ring breakage. 13 Slacken each of the big-end bearing cap bolts half a turn at a time, until they can be removed by hand. Remove the No 1 cap and bearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of the cap. 14 Remove the upper bearing shell, and push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine. Use a wooden hammer handle to push on the connecting rod’s bearing recess. If resistance is felt,

double-check that all of the ridge was removed from the cylinder. 15 Repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders. 16 After removal, reassemble the big-end bearing caps and shells on their respective connecting rods, and refit the bolts fingertight. Leaving the old shells in place until reassembly will help prevent the bearing recesses from being accidentally nicked or gouged. New shells should be used on reassembly.

13 Crankshaft - removal

Note: The crankshaft can be removed only after the engine has been removed from the vehicle. It is assumed that the transmission, flywheel/driveplate, timing belt/chain, cylinder head, sump, oil pump pick-up/strainer, oil baffle, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies, have already been removed. The crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier/housing must be unbolted from the cylinder block/crankcase before proceeding with crankshaft removal.

1 Before the crankshaft is removed, check the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator, or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft (see illustration).

2D•20 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

13.1 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a dial gauge

12.11 Each connecting rod and big-end bearing cap will have a flat-machined

surface visible from the front (exhaust)

side of the engine, with the cylinder

number etched in it

12.10 Removing the oil baffle to provide access to crankshaft and bearings

Ford Orion User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual