Fiat Uno 1996 User Manual

Fiat Uno

Service and Repair Manual

Peter G Strasman

Models covered

Fiat Uno 45, 55, 60, 70, 1.1 and 1.4, including Turbo ie and special/limited editions 903 cc, 999 cc, 1108 cc, 1116 cc, 1299 cc, 1301 cc and 1372 cc petrol engines with manual transmissions

Does not Selecta, Fiorino type vans or Diesel engine

(923-320-3Y7)

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 089 1 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

ABCDE FGHIJ KLMNO PQRST

1 2 3

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR FIAT UNO

Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5 General dimensions, weights and capacities Page 0•6

Roadside Repairs

Jump starting Page 0•7 Jacking, towing and wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Maintenance schedule (also see Chapter 13) Page 0•10 Recommended Lubricants and Fluids Page 0•13 Conversion factors Page 0•14

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

Engine (also see Chapter 13) Page 1•1 Cooling and heating systems (also see Chapter 13) Page 2•1 Fuel system (also see Chapter 13) Page 3•1 Ignition system (also see Chapter 13) Page 4•1

Transmission

Clutch (also see Chapter 13) Page 5•1 Transmission (also see Chapter 13) Page 6•1 Driveshafts, hubs, roadwheels and tyres (also see Chapter 13) Page 7•1

Brakes

Braking system (also see Chapter 13) Page 8•1

Electrical

Electrical system (also see Chapter 13) Page 9•1

Steering and suspension

Steering Page 10•1 Suspension (also see Chapter 13) Page 11•1

Bodywork

Bodywork (also see Chapter 13) Page 12•1

Additional information

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models Page 13•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 14•1

REFERENCE

MOT Test Checks Page REF•1 Tools and Working Facilities Page REF•5 General Repair Procedures Page REF•8 Fault Finding Page REF•9 Buying Spare Parts & Vehicle Identification Numbers Page REF•12 Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•13

Index Page REF•17

Contents

The Fiat Uno is a well designed and constructed car having an excellent power-to-weight ratio.

The car is very economical, but still offers good performance with excellent body interior space.

Attractive features include the options available for four- or five-speeds or three- or five-door bodywork.

All essential accessories, except a radio, are fitted as standard and a sunroof is optionally available.

From the home mechanic’s point of view all repair and servicing operations are straightforward without the need for special tools. Spare parts are immediately available at moderate cost.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of the Fiat Motor Company (UK) Limited and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us, No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

0•4 Introduction

Introduction to the Fiat Uno

Fiat Uno 1301 cc Turbo ie

Fiat Uno 1372 cc 70 SX ie

Safety First! 0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 General dimensions, weights and capacities

Dimensions

Overall length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3644 mm (143.6 in)

Overall width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1555 mm (61.3 in)

Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1432 mm (56.4 in)

Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2362 mm (93.1 in)

Front track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1340 mm (52.8 in)

Rear track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1300 mm (51.2 in)

Weights (kerb)

Uno 45:

Three-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 700 kg (1543 lb)

Five-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 710 kg (1566 lb)

Uno 55:

Three-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 730 kg (1610 lb)

Five-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 740 kg (1632 lb)

Uno 70:

Three-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 740 kg (1632 lb)

Five-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 kg (1654 lb)

Uno SX:

Three-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 770 kg (1698 lb)

Five-door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 780 kg (1720 lb)

Capacities

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.0 litre (9.25 gal)

Engine oil (with filter change):

903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.42 litre (6.0 pint)

1116 and 1301 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.10 Iitre (7.2 pint)

Transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.40 litre (4.2 pint)

Steering box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140.0 cc

Driveshaft CV joints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125.0 cc

Cooling system:

903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.6 litre (8.1 pint)

1116 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 litre (10.6 pint)

1301 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 litre (10.9 pint)

For information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Roadside Repairs 0•7

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are

three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Booster battery (jump) starting

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting

–

0•8 Roadside Repairs

To avoid repetition, the procedure for raising the vehicle, in order to carry out work under it, is not included before each relevant operation described in this Manual.

It is to be preferred, and it is certainly recommended, that the vehicle is positioned over an inspection pit or raised on a lift. Where these facilities are not available, use ramps or jack up the vehicle strictly in accordance with the following guide. Once the vehicle is raised, supplement the jack with axle stands.

Jacking

The jack supplied with the car should only be used to change a wheel. Do not use this jack when overhaul or repair work is being carried out; employ a hydraulic or screw jack and supplement it with axle stands.

Jacking points are located under the sills for use with the jack supplied.

To raise the front end with a garage jack, locate the jack under the transmission lower mounting, just below and slightly to the rear of the transmission oil drain plug. Protect the mounting by placing a block of wood between the jack head and the mounting.

To raise the rear of the car, the jack should be placed under the spare wheel housing as far to the rear as possible. Place a wooden bearer between the jack head and the housing.

Towing

When being towed, use the left-hand front towing eye.

When towing another vehicle, use the rear towing eye adjacent to the exhaust tailpipe.

When being towed, remember that the brake pedal will require heavier pressure due to lack of servo assistance. Always turn the

ignition key to MAR to retain the steering in the unlocked position.

Wheel changing

With the car on firm level ground, apply the handbrake fully. Remove the hub cap or wheel trim, if fitted.

Release, but do not remove, the bolts. Chock the front and rear of the opposite roadwheel and then raise the car using the sill jack supplied with the car if it is being done at the roadside. Alternatively use a workshop jack supplemented with axle stands.

Remove the wheel bolts, change the wheel and screw in the bolts finger tight. It is recommended that the bolt threads are smeared with multi-purpose grease. Lower the car, remove the jack and tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque. Refit any wheel trim that was removed.

Spare wheel and jack stowage

Front tow hook Rear tow hook

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

Roadside Repairs 0•9

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car and to park it over some clean paper as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

0•10 Routine maintenance

Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication has been greatly reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or will last forever. This is certainly not the case; it is essential to carry out regular visual examinations as comprehensively as possible in order to spot any possible defects at an early stage before they develop into major and expensive repairs.

For information applicable to later models, see Supplement.

Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly, or before a long journey

mm Check engine oil level mm Check brake reservoir fluid level mm Check tyre pressures mm Check operation of all lights and horn mm Top up washer fluid reservoirs, adding a screen

wash, and check operation of washers and wipers

mm Check coolant level mm Check battery electrolyte level

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or six months, whichever comes first

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Chapter 1, Section 2) mm Check drivebelt tension (Chapter 2, Section 8) mm Check carburettor idle speed and mixture

adjustments (Chapter 3)

mm Check contact points and dwell angle (mechanical

breaker distributors) (Chapter 4, Section 3)

mm Check tyre tread wear (Chapter 7, Section 7) mm Check disc pads for wear (Chapter 8, Section 3)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or three years, whichever comes first

mm Renew the timing belt - 1116 and 1299/1301 cc

(Chapter 1, Section 28)

mm Check exhaust system for corrosion (Chapter 3,

Section 19)

mm Renew contact breaker points and adjust dwell

angle (mechanical breaker distributors) (Chapter 4, Section 3)

mm Check and adjust ignition timing (Chapter 4,

Section 4)

mm Renew spark plugs (Chapter 4, Section 11) mm Check clutch adjustment (Chapter 5, Section 2) mm Check transmission oil level (Chapter 6, Section 2) mm Check driveshaft and steering rack gaiters for splits

(Chapters 7 and 10)

mm Check rear brake shoe linings for wear (Chapter 8,

Section 4)

mm Check handbrake travel (Chapter 8, Section 16) mm Check headlamp beam alignment (Chapter 9,

Section 17)

mm Check balljoints for wear (Chapter 10, Section 2) mm Check front wheel alignment (Chapter 10, Section 8) mm Check suspension bushes for wear (Chapter 11,

Section 2)

mm Check seat belts for fraying (Chapter 12, Section 23) mm Lubricate controls, hinges and locks

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or two years, whichever comes first

mm Renew coolant anti-freeze mixture (Chapter 2,

Section 3)

mm Renew transmission oil (Chapter 6, Section 2) mm Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Chapter 8, Section 12) mm Check for underbody corrosion and clean out door

and sill drain holes (Chapter 12, Section 2)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first

mm Check and adjust valve clearances (Chapter 1,

Sections 5 and 26)

mm Renew air cleaner element (Chapter 3, Section 2)

Routine maintenance 0•11

Engine compartment (air cleaner removed for clarity) on 55S model

1 Strut upper mounting 2 Washer fluid reservoir 3 Brake fluid reservoir 4 Ignition coil

5 Throttle cable 6 Carburettor 7 Battery 8 Timing belt cover

9 Distributor 10 Oil filler cap 11 Radiator electric cooling

fan

12 Radiator 13 Coolant expansion tank 14 Front mounting 15 Clutch operating cable

0•12 Routine maintenance

View of front end from below on

55S model

1 Tie-rod end 2 Track control arm 3 Lower mounting 4 Gearchange control rods 5 Exhaust pipe 6 Driveshafts 7 Transmission 8 Sump drain plug 9 Disc caliper 10 Front mounting 11 Horns 12 Radiator 13 Oil filter

View of rear end from below

1 Suspension trailing arm 2 Fuel tank filler hose 3 Rear axle beam 4 Rear silencer 5 Spring seat 6 Expansion box 7 Handbrake cable 8 Fuel tank support strap 9 Fuel tank 10 Handbrake cable adjuster

Lubricants and Fluids 0•13

Component or system Lubricant type/specification 1 Engine Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/40, meeting API-SG or CCMC

G2/G3 specification (or equivalent multigrade engine oil with viscosity rating suitable for ambient temperature in which vehicle is operated see owner’s handbook)

2 Transmission:

1372 cc Turbo ie model FIAT ZC 80/S gear oil All other models FIAT ZC 90 gear oil

3 Cooling system Ethylene glycol based antifreeze 4 Brake and clutch hydraulic system(s) Hydraulic fluid to DOT 3 or 4, or SAE J1703C 5 Driveshaft CV joints and steering rack Lithium based molybdenum disulphide General greasing Multi-purpose lithium based grease

0•14 Conversion Factors

Length (distance)

Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) x 0.0394 = Inches (in) Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m) x 3.281 = Feet (ft) Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) x 0.621 = Miles

Volume (capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in3) x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3) Imperial pints (Imp pt) x 0.568 = Litres (l) x 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.137 = Litres (l) x 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) x 0.946 = Litres (l) x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 4.546 = Litres (l) x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal) x 3.785 = Litres (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)

Ounces (oz) x 28.35 = Grams (g) x 0.035 = Ounces (oz) Pounds (lb) x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

Force

Ounces-force (ozf; oz) x 0.278 = Newtons (N) x 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (lbf; lb) x 4.448 = Newtons (N) x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb) Newtons (N) x 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) x 9.81 = Newtons (N)

Pressure

Pounds-force per square inch x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 0.069 = Bars x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)

centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) Millibar (mbar) x 100 = Pascals (Pa) x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Millibar (mbar) x 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH2O) x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)

Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH

O) x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

Inches of water (inH2O) x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH2O)

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in2)

Torque (moment of force)

Pounds-force inches x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches (lbf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches

(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 12 = Pounds-force inches (lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

(kgf m; kg m) Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) Newton metres (Nm) x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)

(kgf m; kg m)

Power

Horsepower (hp) x 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)

Temperature

Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282

903 cc engine

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four cylinder in-line, liquid cooled, overhead valve. Transversely

mounted with end-on transmission

General

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65.0 mm (2.56 in)

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.0 mm (2.68 in)

Displacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 903 cc (55 cu in)

Compression ratio:

900 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 : 1

900 ES models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.7 : 1

Maximum power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.1 kW at 5600 rev/min (45 bhp)

Maximum torque (DIN):

900 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Nm at 3000 rev/min (49 lbf ft)

900 ES models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Nm at 3000 rev/min (51 lbf ft)

Compression pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.3 to 10.35 bar (135 to 150 lbf/in2)

Maximum pressure difference between cylinders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.69 bar (10 lbf/in2)

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 (No. 1 at crankshaft pulley end)

Chapter 1 Engine

For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Part 1: General

Crankcase ventilation system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Engine oil and filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Major operations possible without removing the engine

from the car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Part 2: 903 cc engine

Cylinder head - dismantling and decarbonising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Engine - complete dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Engine - complete reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Engine - dismantling (general) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Engine - initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Engine - method of removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Engine - reassembly (general) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Engine - refitting ancillary components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Engine - removing ancillary components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Engine/transmission - reconnection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Engine/transmission - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Engine/transmission - removal and separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Fault finding - all engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Sump pan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Timing chain and sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Valve clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Part 3: 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines

Camshaft and camshaft carrier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 27

Cylinder head - dismantling and decarbonising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Engine - complete dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Engine - complete reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Engine - dismantling (general) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Engine - initial start-up after major overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Engine - method of removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Engine - reassembly (general) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Engine ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Engine ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Engine/transmission - reconnection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Engine/transmission - removal and separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Fault finding - all engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Sump pan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Timing belt - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Valve clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Valve clearances - checking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

1•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Cylinder block and crankcase

Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cast-iron

Bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65.000 to 65.050 mm (2.5591 to 2.5610 in)

Diameter of camshaft bearing bores in crankcase timing gear end:

Grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.505 to 50.515 mm (1.9882 to 1.9886 in)

Grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.515 to 50.525 mm (1.9886 to 1.9890 in)

Grade D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.705 to 50.715 mm (1.9960 to 1.9964 in)

Grade E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.715 to 50.725 mm (1.9964 to 1.9968 in)

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.420 to 46.450 mm (1.8275 to 1.8287 in)

Flywheel end . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.921 to 35.951 mm (1.4142 to 1.4154 in)

Maximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in)

Maximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in)

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter:

Grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.940 to 64.950 mm (2.5566 to 2.5570 in)

Grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.960 to 64.970 mm (2.5574 to 2.5578 in)

Grade E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.980 to 64.990 mm (2.5582 to 2.5586 in)

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 mm (0.008, 0.016, 0.024 in)

Piston clearance in cylinder bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.070 mm (0.0020 to 0.0028 in)

Piston ring groove width:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.785 to 1.805 mm (0.0703 to 0.0711 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.015 to 2.035 mm (0.0793 to 0.0801 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.975 to 3.977 mm (0.1566 to 0.1567 in)

Piston ring thickness:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.728 to 1.740 mm (0.0680 to 0.0685 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.978 to 1.990 mm (0.0779 to 0.0784 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.925 to 3.937 mm (0.1545 to 0.1550 in)

Piston ring groove clearance:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.045 to 0.077 mm (0.0018 to 0.0030 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.057 mm (0.0010 to 0.0022 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.052 mm (0.0008 to 0.0020 in)

Piston ring end gap:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mm (0.0098 to 0.0177 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.35 mm (0.0078 to 0.0137 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.45 mm (0.0078 to 0.0177 in)

Oversize piston rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 mm (0.008, 0.016, 0.024 in)

Gudgeon pin diameter:

Grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.970 to 19.974 mm (0.7862 to 0.7863 in)

Grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.974 to 19.978 mm (0.7863 to 0.7865 in)

Grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.978 to 19.982 mm (0.7865 to 0.7866 in)

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mm (0.008 in)

Crankshaft

Journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.785 to 50.805 mm (1.9994 to 2.0002 in)

Standard main bearing shell thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.832 to 1.837 mm (0.0721 to 0.0723 in)

Undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.254, 0.508, 0.762,1.016 mm (0.010, 0.020. 0.030, 0.040 in)

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.06 to 0.26 mm (0.0024 to 0.0102 in)

Crankpin diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.985 to 40.005 mm (1.5741 to 1.5750 in)

Standard big-end shell bearing thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.807 to 1.813 mm (0.0712 to 0.0714 in)

Undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.254, 0.508, 0.762, 1.016 mm (0.010, 0.020, 0.030, 0.040 in)

Camshaft

Diameter of camshaft journals:

Timing end . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37.975 to 38.000 mm (1.4951 to 1.4961 in)

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.348 to 43.373 mm (1.7079 to 1.7088 in)

Flywheel end . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30.975 to 31.000 mm (1.2194 to 1.2205 in)

Bush reamed diameters:

Timing gear end* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.025 to 38.050 mm (1.4971 to 1.4981 in)

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.404 to 43.424 mm (1.7088 to 1.7096 in)

Flywheel end . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.026 to 31.046 mm (1.2215 to 1.2223 in)

*Supplied reamed to size

Cam lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.1 mm (0.201 in)

Outside diameter of cam follower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.982 to 14.000 mm (0.5505 to 0.5512 in)

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.010 mm (0.002 to 0.004 in)

Cam follower running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.046 mm (0.0004 to 0.0018 in)

1•2 Engine – general

Cylinder head and valves

Material (cylinder head) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light alloy

Maximum distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm (0.002 in)

Valve guide bore in head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.950 to 12.977 mm (0.5099 to 0.5109 in)

Valve guide outside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.010 to 13.030 mm (0.5122 to 0.5130 in)

Valve guide oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5, 0.10, 0.25 mm (0.002, 0.004, 0.010 in)

Inside diameter of valve guide (reamed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.022 to 7.040 mm (0.2765 to 0.2772 in)

Guide fit in head (interference) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.033 to 0.080 mm (0.0013 to 0.0032 in)

Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.982 to 7.000 mm (0.2748 to 0.2756 in)

Maximum clearance (valve stem to guide) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.022 to 0.058 mm (0.0009 to 0.0023 in)

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44º 55’ to 45º 05’

Valve face angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º 25’ to 45º 35’

Valve head diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 mm (1.1417 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.0 mm (1.0236 in)

Contact band (valve to seat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 1.5 mm (0.0512 to 0.0591 in)

Valve clearance:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm (0.006 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm (0.008 in)

For timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.60 mm (0.024 in)

Valve timing:

Inlet valve:

Opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7º BTDC

Closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36º ABDC

Exhaust valve:

Opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38º BBDC

Closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5º ATDC

Lubrication system

Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear, driven by shaft from camshaft

Tooth tip to body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.14 mm (0.0020 to 0.0055 in)

Gear endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.105 mm (0.0008 to 0.0041 in)

Oil pressure at normal operating temperature and average road/

engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.94 to 3.92 bar (42 to 57 lbf/ in

)

Oil capacity (with filter change) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.42 litre (6.0 pint)

Oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/40

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C101

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 43.5

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 51

Big-end bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30

Crankshaft pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 72

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 32

Rocker pedestal nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29

Engine mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Engine mounting centre nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36

Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Temperature sender switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36

Driveshaft to hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 200

Hub carrier to strut clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36

Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63

Brake caliper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 39

Tie-rod end balljoint nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 25

Driveshaft inboard boot retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Engine – general 1•3

1116 cc and 1301 cc engine

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four cylinder in-line, liquid cooled single overhead camshaft.

Transversely mounted with end-on transmission

General 1116 cc 1301 cc

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.0 mm (3.15 in) 86.4 mm (3.40 in)

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.5 mm (2.19 in) 55.5 mm (2.19 in)

Displacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1116 cc (68.08 cu in) 1301 cc (79.36 cu in)

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.2 : 1 9.1 : 1

Maximum power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.5 kW (55 bhp) at 5600 rev/min 50 kW (68 bhp) at 5700 rev/min

Maximum torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.3 Nm (64 lbf ft) at 100 Nm (74 lbf ft)

2900 rev/min at 2900 rev/min

Compression pressure (bore wear test) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.35 to 11.73 bar (150 to 170 lbf/in

)

Pressure difference between cylinders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.96 bar (14 lbf/ in

)

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 (No. 1 at crankshaft pulley end)

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter - 1116 cc:

Grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.940 to 79.950 mm (3.1496 to 3.1500 in)

Grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.960 to 79.970 mm (3.1504 to 3.1508 in)

Grade E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.980 to 79.990 mm (3.1512 to 3.1516 in)

Piston diameter - 1301 cc:

Grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.320 to 86.330 mm (3.4010 to 3.4014 in)

Grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.340 to 86.350 mm (3.4018 to 3.4022 in)

Grade E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.360 to 86.370 mm (3.4025 to 3.4030 in)

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 mm (0.008, 0.016, 0.023 in)

Piston clearance in cylinder bore:

1116 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.070 mm (0.0020 to 0.0027 in)

1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.070 to 0.090 mm (0.0027 to 0.0035 in)

Piston ring groove width - 1116 cc:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.535 to 1.555 mm (0.1442 to 0.1461 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.015 to 2.035 mm (0.0794 to 0.0802 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.957 to 3.977 mm (0.1559 to 0.1567 in)

Piston ring groove width - 1301 cc:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.535 to 1.555 mm (0.0605 to 0.0613 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.030 to 2.050 mm (0.0800 to 0.0808 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.967 to 3.987 mm (0.1563 to 0.1571 in)

Piston ring thickness:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.478 to 1.490 mm (0.0582 to 0.0587 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.978 to 1.990 mm (0.0779 to 0.0784 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.925 to 3.937 mm (0.1546 to 0.1551 in)

Oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 mm (0.008, 0.016, 0.023 in)

Piston ring groove clearance - 1116 cc:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.045 to 0.077 mm (0.0018 to 0.0030 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.057 mm (0.0010 to 0.0022 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.052 mm (0.0008 to 0.0020 in)

Piston ring groove clearance - 1301 cc:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.045 to 0.077 mm (0.0018 to 0.0030 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.040 to 0.072 mm (0.0016 to 0.0028 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.030 to 0.062 mm (0.0012 to 0.0024 in)

Piston ring end gap - 1116 cc:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.45 mm (0.0012 to 0.0018 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.35 mm (0.008 to 0.014 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.35 mm (0.008 to 0.014 in)

Piston ring end gap - 1301 cc:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.45 mm (0.012 to 0.016 in)

Second . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm (0.012 to 0.020 in)

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.40 mm (0.010 to 0.016 in)

Gudgeon pin diameter - 1116 cc:

Grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.970 to 21.974 mm (0.8656 to 0.8658 in)

Grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.974 to 21.978 mm (0.8658 to 0.8659 in)

Grade 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.978 to 21.982 mm (0.8659 to 0.8661in)

Gudgeon pin diameter - 1301 cc:

Grade 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.991 to 21.994 mm (0.8664 to 0.8666 in)

Grade 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.994 to 21.997 mm (0.8666 to 0.8667 in)

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mm (0.008 in)

1•4 Engine – general

Crankshaft

Journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.785 to 50.805 mm (1.9994 to 2.0002 in)

Standard main bearing shell thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.825 to 1.831 mm (0.0719 to 0.0721 in)

Undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.254, 0.508, 0.762, 1.016 mm (0.010. 0.020, 0.030, 0.040 in)

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.06 to 0.26 mm (0.0024 to 0.0102 in)

Crankpin diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.498 to 45.518 mm (1.7926 to 1.7934 in)

Standard big-end shell bearing thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.531 to 1.538 mm (0.0603 to 0.0606 in)

Undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.254, 0.508, 0.762, 1.016 mm (0.010, 0.020, 0.030, 0.040 in)

Camshaft

Number of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Diameter of camshaft journals:

No. 1 (timing end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.944 to 29.960 mm (1.1798 to 1.1804 in)

No. 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.935 to 47.950 mm (1.8886 to 1.8892 in)

No. 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.135 to 48.150 mm (1.8965 to 1.8971 in)

No. 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.335 to 48.350 mm (1.9044 to 1.9050 in)

No. 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.535 to 48.550 mm (1.9122 to 1.9129 in)

Cam lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.8 mm (0.3467 in)

Camshaft bearing diameters in carrier:

No. 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.990 to 30.014 mm (1.1816 to 1.1825 in)

No. 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.980 to 48.005 mm (1.8904 to 1.8913 in)

No. 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.180 to 48.205 mm (1.8982 to 1.8992 in)

No. 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.380 to 48.405 mm (1.9062 to 1.9072 in)

No. 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.580 to 48.605 mm (1.9141 to 1.9150 in)

Outside diameter of cam follower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.975 to 36.995 mm (1.4568 to 1.4576 in)

Cam follower running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.005 to 0.050 mm (0.0002 to 0.0020 in)

Lubrication system

Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear driven from auxiliary shaft

Tooth tip to body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.110 to 0.180 mm (0.0043 to 0.0071 in)

Gear endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.105 mm (0.0008 to 0.0041 in)

Oil pressure at normal operating temperature and average road/

engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.43 to 4.9 bar (50 to 71 lbf/in

)

Oil capacity (with filter change) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.05 litre (7.1 pint)

Oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/40

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C106

Cylinder head and valves

Head material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light alloy

Maximum distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm (0.002 in)

Valve guide bore in head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.950 to 13.977 mm (0.5496 to 0.5507 in)

Valve guide outside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.040 to 14.058 mm (0.5532 to 0.5539 in)

Valve guide oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05, 0.10, 0.25 mm (0.002, 0.004, 0.010 in)

Inside diameter of valve guide (reamed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.022 to 8.040 mm (0.3161 to 0.3168 in)

Valve guide fit in cylinder head (interference) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.063 to 0.108 mm (0.0025 to 0.0043 in)

Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.974 to 7.992 mm (0.3142 to 0.3149 in)

Maximum clearance (valve stem to guide) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.030 to 0.066 mm (0.0012 to 0.0026 in)

Valve face angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º 25’ to 45º 35’

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44º 55’ to 45º 05’

Valve head diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.850 to 36.150 mm (1.4125 to 1.4243 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30.850 to 31.450 mm (1.2155 to 1.2391 in)

Contact band (valve to seat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 1.5 mm (0.0512 to 0.0591 in)

Valve clearance:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 mm (0.0158 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 mm (0.0197 in)

For timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.80 mm (0.0315 in)

Valve clearance adjusting shim thicknesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 to 4.70 mm (0.128 to 0.185 in), in increments of 0.05 mm

(0.002 in)

Valve timing:

Inlet valve:

Opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7º BTDC

Closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35º ABDC

Exhaust valve:

Opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37º BBDC

Closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5º ATDC

Engine – general 1•5

Auxiliary shaft

Bearing internal diameter (reamed):

No. 1 (timing belt end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.664 to 35.684 mm (1.4052 to 1.4059 in)

No. 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.000 to 32.020 mm (1.2608 to 1.2616 in)

Shaft journal diameter:

No. 1 (timing belt end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.593 to 35.618 mm (1.4024 to 1.4033 in)

No. 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.940 to 31.960 mm (1.2584 to 1.2592 in)

Cylinder block and crankcase

Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cast-iron

Bore diameter:

1116 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.000 to 80.050 mm (3.152 to 3.154 in)

1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.400 to 86.450 mm (3.404 to 3.406 in)

Maximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in)

Maximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in)

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Turn through 90º Turn through 90º

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Turn through 90º Turn through 90º

Camshaft carrier to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Big-end cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 38

Flywheel mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61

Belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 32

Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 21

Auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61

Flexible mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 44

Flexible mounting centre nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63

Driveshaft/hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 200

Tie-rod end balljoint nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 25

Brake caliper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 39

Front strut lower clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36

Driveshaft inboard boot retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Crankshaft pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 7

1•6 Engine – general

Part 1: General

1 Description

1 The Uno may be powered by one of three

engines depending upon the particular model.

903 cc

2 This is of four cylinder overhead valve type with a light alloy cylinder head and a cast-iron block and crankcase. 3 A three bearing crankshaft is used and the chain-driven camshaft runs in three steel backed white metal bearings. 4 The light alloy pistons are fitted with two compression and one oil control ring. The gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the small end of the connecting rod. 5 Lubrication is provided by an oil pump within the sump pan and both the pump and the distributor are driven from a gear on the camshaft. Pressurised oil passes through a

cartridge type oil filter. An oil pressure relief valve is incorporated in the oil pump. The engine oil is independent of the transmission lubricant.

1116 cc and 1301 cc

6 These engines are of single overhead camshaft type, the camshaft being driven by a toothed belt. 7 The difference in engine capacity is achieved by increasing the cylinder bore on the 1301 cc engine. 8 The cylinder head is of light alloy while the cylinder block and crankcase are of cast-iron construction. 9 A five bearing crankshaft is used and the camshaft runs in a similar number of bearings, but as these are in-line bored directly in the camshaft carrier, no repair is possible. 10 The pistons are of light alloy with two compression and one oil control ring. The gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the small end of the connecting rod. 11 An auxiliary shaft, driven by the timing belt is used to drive the distributor, oil pump and fuel pump.

12 The oil pump is located within the sump pan and incorporates a pressure relief valve. 13 Pressurised oil passes through a cartridge type oil filter. 14 The crankshaft main bearings are supplied under pressure from drillings in the crankcase from the main oil gallery whilst the connecting rod big-end bearings are lubricated from the main bearings by oil forced through the crankshaft oilways. The camshaft bearings are fed from a drilling from the main oil gallery. The cams and tappets are lubricated by oil mist from outlets in the camshaft bearings. 15 The cylinder walls, pistons and gudgeon pins are lubricated by oil splashed up by the crankshaft webs. An oil pressure warning light is fitted to indicate when the pressure is too low.

All engines

16 The engine is mounted transversely with the transmission at the front of the car. 17 The engine oil is independent of the transmission lubricant.

Engine – general 1•7

Fig. 1.1 Longitudinal section of 903 cc engine (Sec 1)

Fig. 1.3 Longitudinal section of 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines

(Sec 1)

Fig. 1.2 Cross-section of 903 cc engine (Sec 1)

Fig. 1.4 Cross-section of 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines

(Sec 1)

2 Engine oil and filter

1 The engine oil level should be checked at the weekly service (see “Routine Maintenance”). Preferably check the level cold, first thing in the morning or if the engine has been running, allow at least ten minutes to elapse after switching off to permit the oil to drain. 2 Withdraw the dipstick, wipe it clean on non-fluffy material, re-insert it and then withdraw it for the second time (photo). 3 The oil level should be between the MIN and MAX marks. If not, top up with specified oil to the MAX mark. Pour the oil slowly

through the filler orifice on the rocker cover. To raise the oil level from MIN to MAX will require approximately 1.1 litre (2.0 pints) (photos).

4 At the intervals specified in “Routine Maintenance” the oil and filter should be

renewed. 5 Have the engine at normal operating temperature, remove the oil filler cap. 6 Place a suitable container under the sump pan. Unscrew and remove the oil drain plug and allow the oil to drain (photo). 7 While the oil is draining, unscrew and discard the oil filter. To unscrew the filter, a filter or chain wrench will normally be required. If such a tool is not available, drive a long screwdriver through the oil tester casing and use it as a lever to unscrew the filter cartridge. 8 Smear the rubber sealing ring of the new oil filter with oil and screw into position using hand pressure only (photo). 9 Refit the drain plug and refill the engine with the correct quantity and grade of oil. 10 Start the engine. It will take two or three seconds for the oil warning lamp to go out. This is normal and is due to the time taken for the new filter to fill with oil. 11 Switch off, check for leaks and check the oil level, topping up if necessary.

3 Crankcase ventilation

system

1 This system is designed to draw oil fumes and blow-by gas (which has passed the piston rings) from the crankcase and draw it into the intake manifold when it will then be burned during the normal combustion process. 2 Regularly check the security of the system hoses which run from the rocker cover or crankcase breather unit (photo). 3 Periodically, detach the hoses and clean them out with paraffin and a brush or rag pull through. 4 Evidence of sludge or emulsified oil within the hoses or inside the oil filler cap will indicate that the engine is running too cool particularly if the car is used mainly for short journeys where the engine never reaches full working temperature.

4 Major operations possible

without removing engine from car

1 The following work can be carried out without

the need to remove the engine from the car.

903 cc engine

Valve clearances - checking and adjusting Timing chain and sprockets - removal and refitting

1•8 Engine – general

3.2 Crankcase vent hose (1116 cc)Fig. 1.5 Sectional view of oil filter. Bypass

valve arrowed (Sec 2)

2.8 Screwing on the oil filter (903 cc)

2.6 Engine sump drain plug

2.3B Topping up engine oil (1116 cc)2.3A Typical dipstick markings2.2 Withdrawing engine oil dipstick

(1116 cc)

Cylinder head - removal and refitting Sump pan - removal and refitting Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting Oil pump - removal and refitting Engine mountings - renewal

1116 cc and 1301 cc engines

Valve clearances - checking and adjusting Camshaft and camshaft carrier - removal and refitting Timing belt - removal and refitting Cylinder head - removal and refitting Sump pan - removal and refitting Oil pump - removal and refitting Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting Engine mountings - renewal

Part 2: 903 cc engine

5 Valve clearances -

adjustment

1 Adjust the valves when the engine is cold. 2 Unbolt and remove the rocker cover. 3 It is important that the clearance is set

when the cam follower of the valve being adjusted is on the heel of the cam (ie; opposite the peak). This can be done by carrying out the adjustments in the following order, which also avoids turning the crankshaft more than necessary. 4 Turn the crankshaft either using a spanner on the pulley nut or by raising a front roadwheel, engaging a gear (3rd or 4th) and turning the wheel in the forward direction of travel. It will be easier to turn the engine if the spark plugs are first removed.

Valve fully open Check and adjust

Valve No. 8 EX Valve No. 1 EX Valve No. 6 IN Valve No. 3 IN Valve No. 4 EX Valve No. 5 EX Valve No. 7 IN Valve No. 2 IN Valve No. 1 EX Valve No. 8 EX Valve No. 3 IN Valve No. 6 IN Valve No. 5 EX Valve No. 4 EX Valve No. 2 IN Valve No. 7 IN

5 Count the valves from the timing cover end of the engine. 6 Remember, the inlet and exhaust valve clearances are different. 7 Insert the appropriate feeler gauge between the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm. It should be a stiff sliding fit (photo). 8 If the clearance is incorrect, release the rocker arm adjuster screw locknut using a ring spanner. Turn the adjuster screw using a small open-ended spanner, but tie something to it in case it is inadvertently dropped through one of the pushrod holes. 9 Once the clearance is correct, tighten the locknut without moving the position of the adjuster screw. 10 Repeat the operations on the remaining seven valves. 11 Re-check all the clearances. Make sure that the rocker cover gasket is in good condition and fit the rocker cover.

6 Timing chain and sprockets

- removal and refitting

1 Remove the alternator drivebelt as described in Chapter 2. 2 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley nut.

3 Disconnect the hoses from the fuel pump. 4 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump with

spacer and rod. 5 Support the engine on a hoist or under the sump and disconnect and remove the right-hand mounting. Then unscrew and remove the timing cover bolts. The base of the cover is secured by the front two sump pan studs. Unbolt and lower the front end of the sump. Avoid breaking the gasket. Remove the timing cover. 6 Undo and remove the camshaft sprocket securing bolt; this will also release the fuel pump drive cam from the end of the camshaft. Note the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. 7 Using two tyre levers, carefully ease the two sprockets forwards away from the crankcase. Lift away the two sprockets and timing chain. 8 Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft nose with a pair of pliers and note how the channel in the pulley is designed to fit over it. Place the Woodruff key in a container as it is a very small part and can easily become lost. The camshaft sprocket is located on the camshaft by a dowel peg.

Refitting

9 Fit the Woodruff key to the front of the crankshaft. 10 Tap the crankshaft sprocket onto the front of the crankshaft. 11 Turn the sprocket so that the Woodruff key is uppermost. 12 Turn the camshaft until it is in such a position that if the sprocket was fitted the dimple timing mark on the sprocket would be nearest to and in alignment with, the one on the crankshaft sprocket.

903 cc engine 1•9

5.7 Adjusting a valve clearance

1 Sprocket retaining bolt 2 Fuel pump eccentric cam 3 Timing chain

4 Camshaft sprocket 5 Sprocket locating dowel 6 Camshaft

7 Woodruff key 8 Crankshaft 9 Crankshaft sprocket

Fig. 1.6 Timing chain and sprockets (Sec 6)

To prevent the crankshaft rotating, either select a gear and have an assistant apply

the footbrake hard or remove the starter motor and lock the ring gear teeth with a large cold chisel or screwdriver.

13 Engage the timing chain with the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. Then locate the camshaft sprocket within the upper loop of the chain in such a way that when the sprocket is pushed onto the camshaft, the timing marks will be in alignment. Make sure that the self-tensioning links are on the inside of the chain against the cylinder block (photos). 14 Place the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft so that its positioning dowel engages. 15 Secure the camshaft sprocket by fitting the special cam, that drives the fuel pump, on its locating dowel. Fit the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt (photo). 16 Tighten the sprocket bolt to the specified torque. 17 If the timing cover oil seal showed signs of leaking before engine overhaul the old seal should be removed and a new one fitted. 18 Using a screwdriver, carefully remove the old oil seal, working from the rear of the cover. Fit the new seal making sure it is inserted squarely, and tap home with a hammer.

19 Lubricate the oil seal with engine oil. 20 With all traces of old gasket and jointing

compound removed from the timing cover and cylinder block mating faces, smear a little grease onto the timing cover mating face and fit a new gasket in position. 21 Fit the timing cover to the cylinder block and finger tighten the securing bolts, and spring washer. Ensure that the fuel pump pushrod bush is in place in the cover.

22 Wipe the hub of the pulley and carefully place into position on the crankshaft. It should locate on the Woodruff key. It may be necessary to adjust the position of the timing cover slightly in order to centralise the oil seal relative to the pulley hub. 23 Tighten the timing cover securing bolts in a diagonal and progressive manner. 24 Tighten the crankshaft pulley nut to the specified torque again holding the crankshaft against rotation as previously described (paragraph 2) this Section. 25 Refit the fuel pump and alternator drivebelt.

7 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

1 For safety reasons, disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Refer to Chapter 2 and drain the cooling system. 3 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the carburettor, air cleaner and spacer block. 4 Undo and remove the five nuts and washers securing the exhaust manifold and hot air ducting to the cylinder head. 5 Detach the cable from the temperature indicator sender unit. 6 Refer to Chapter 4 and disconnect the distributor LT lead and the coil HT lead. 7 Refer to Chapter 2 and remove the thermostat housing from the cylinder head. 8 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the cylinder head. 9 Note the electrical connections to the rear of the alternator and disconnect them. 10 Disconnect the mounting and adjuster link bolts and remove the alternator from the engine. 11 Unscrew the four nuts securing the rocker cover to the top of the cylinder head and lift away the spring washers and metal packing pieces. Remove the rocker cover and cork gasket. 12 Unscrew the four rocker pedestal securing nuts in a progressive manner. Lift away the four nuts and spring washers and

ease the valve rocker assembly from the cylinder head studs. 13 Remove the pushrods, keeping them in the relative order in which they were removed. The easiest way to do this is to push them through a sheet of thick paper or thin card in the correct sequence. 14 Unscrew the cylinder head securing bolts half a turn at a time in the reverse order to that shown in Fig. 1.7; don’t forget the one within the inlet manifold. When all the bolts are no longer under tension they may be unscrewed from the cylinder head one at a time. This will also release a section of the cooling system pipe secured by two of the bolts. All the bolts have washers. 15 The cylinder head may now be lifted off. If the head is jammed, try to rock it to break the seal. Under no circumstances try to prise it apart from the cylinder block with a screwdriver or cold chisel as damage may be done to the faces of the head or block. If this or the Hint, fail to work, strike the head sharply with a plastic headed hammer, or with a wooden hammer, or with a metal hammer with an interposed piece of wood to cushion the blows. Under no circumstances hit the head directly with a metal hammer as this may cause the casting to fracture. Several sharp taps with the hammer, at the same time pulling upwards, should free the head. Lift the head off and place on one side.

16 The cylinder head may now be decarbonised or dismantled, refer to Section 17.

Refitting

17 After checking that both the cylinder block and cylinder head mating surfaces are perfectly clean, generously lubricate each cylinder with engine oil. 18 Always use a new cylinder head gasket as the old gasket will be compressed and not capable of giving a good seal.

1•10 903 cc engine

6.15 Fitting fuel pump drive cam and sprocket bolt

6.13C Self-tensioning links on inside of chain

6.13B Timing mark alignment6.13A Fitting the sprockets and timing

chain

If the head will not readily free, turn the crankshaft. The compression generated in the cylinders will often

break the gasket joint

19 Never smear grease on the gasket as, when the engine heats up, the grease will melt and may allow compression leaks to develop. 20 The cylinder head gasket cannot be fitted incorrectly due to its asymmetrical shape, but the word ALTO should be uppermost in any event (photo). 21 The locating dowels should be refitted to the front right and left-hand side cylinder head securing bolt holes. 22 Carefully fit the cylinder head gasket to the top of the cylinder block. 23 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket, taking care not to move the position of the gasket. 24 Screw in the cylinder head bolts finger tight, remembering the bolt within the intake manifold and the metal coolant pipe which is held by the two cylinder head bolts adjacent to the coolant temperature sender unit (photos). 25 Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two stages, in the specified sequence to the torque given in Specifications. 26 With the cylinder head in position, fit the pushrods in the same order in which they were removed. Ensure that they locate properly in the stems of the tappets and lubricate the pushrod ends before fitment (photo). 27 Unscrew the rocker arm adjuster screws as far as they will go. 28 Fit the rocker gear over the four studs in the cylinder head and lower onto the cylinder head. Make sure the ball ends of the rockers locate in the cups of the pushrods.

29 Fit the four nuts and washers to the rocker shaft pedestal studs and tighten in a progressive manner to the torque wrench setting given in the Specifications. 30 Adjust the valve clearances as described in Section 5. 31 Fit the exhaust manifold, thermostat housing and alternator, also the rocker cover (photo). 32 Fit the carburettor, air cleaner and distributor (Chapter 4). 33 Reconnect all hoses and electrical leads, including the battery.

34 Refill the cooling system.

8 Sump pan -

removal and refitting

1 Drain the engine oil. 2 Unscrew and remove the four nuts and

twelve bolts and lift away the sump pan. If it has stuck on the gasket carefully tap the side of the mating flange to break the seal. Remove the gasket and clean away any pieces of gasket cement which are adhering to the flanges. 3 Remove the sealing strips from the recesses at either end of the sump pan.

Refitting

4 Fit the new sealing strips and if necessary, trim their ends until they are just proud of the sump pan flange (photo).

5 Using thick grease, stick the gasket side strips to the crankcase. 6 Apply a blob of jointing compound at the points of overlap of the side gaskets and strips. 7 Offer up the sump pan, screw in and tighten the bolts and nuts progressively (photos). 8 Refill the engine with oil.

903 cc engine 1•11

7.24B Cylinder head bolts holding coolant pipe

7.24A Cylinder head bolt in intake manifold7.20 Cylinder head gasket

7.31 Fitting the rocker cover

7.26 Fitting a pushrod

Fig. 1.7 Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence (Sec 7)

8.4 Sump pan sealing strip 8.7A Fitting the sump pan

9 Pistons/connecting rods -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the cylinder head as described in Section 7. 2 Remove the sump pan as described in Section 8. 3 Undo and remove the big-end cap retaining bolts and keep them in their respective order for correct refitting. 4 Check that the connecting rod and big-end bearing cap assemblies are correctly marked. Normally the numbers 1-4 are stamped on adjacent sides of the big-end caps and connecting rods, indicating which cap fits on which rod and which way round the cap fits. The numbers are located on the sides of the rod and cap furthest away from the camshaft. 5 If numbers are not evident, then use a sharp file to make mating marks across the rod/cap joint. One line for connecting rod No. 1, two for connecting rod No. 2 and so on. This will ensure that there is no confusion later as it is most important that the caps go back in the correct position on the connecting rods from which they were removed. No. 1 piston should be at the crankshaft pulley end of the engine. 6 If the big-end caps are difficult to remove they may be gently tapped with a soft-faced hammer. 7 To remove the shell bearings, press the bearing opposite the groove in both the connecting rod and the connecting rod caps and the bearings will slide out easily. 8 Keep the shells with their original cap or rod if the bearings are not being renewed. 9 Withdraw the pistons and connecting rods upwards and ensure that they are kept in the correct order for replacement in the same bore. 10 If the cylinder has a wear ridge at its upper end then this may make it difficult to remove the piston. In this event, relieve the sharp edge of the ridge by scraping. 11 Dismantling the pistons is described in Section 18, paragraph 17. 12 Lay the piston and connecting rod assemblies in the correct order ready for refitting into their respective bores.

13 With a wad of clean non-fluffy rag wipe the cylinder bores clean. 14 Position the piston rings so that their gaps are 120º apart and then lubricate the rings. 15 Wipe clean the connecting rod half of the big-end bearing and the underside of the shell bearing. Fit the shell bearing in position with its locating tongue engaged with the corresponding groove in the connecting rod. 16 Fit a piston ring compressor to the top of the piston, making sure it is tight enough to compress the piston rings. 17 Using a piece of fine wire double check that the little jet hole in the connecting rod is clean. 18 The pistons, complete with connecting rods, are fitted to their bores from above. The number stamped on the connecting rod must face away from the camshaft with the arrow on the piston crown pointing towards the timing cover.

19 With the base of the piston ring compressor resting on the cylinder block, apply the wooden handle of a hammer to the piston crown, strike the hammer head with the hand and drive the piston/rod into its bore (photo). 20 Draw the rod, complete with shell bearing down onto its crankpin. 21 Generously lubricate the crankpin journals with engine oil, and turn the crankshaft so that the crankpin is in the most advantageous position for the connecting rod to be drawn into it. 22 Wipe clean the connecting rod bearing cap and back of the shell bearing and fit the shell bearing in position ensuring that the locating tongue at the back of the bearing engages with the locating groove in the connecting rod cap. 23 Generously lubricate the shell bearing and offer up the connecting rod bearing cap to the connecting rod (photo).

1•12 903 cc engine

9.23 Big-end cap9.19 Fitting a piston/connecting rod

Fig. 1.8 Piston/connecting rod components (Sec 9)

1 Bolt 2 Connecting rod 3 Oil control ring

4 Compression ring

(stepped at base)

5 Compression ring

(marked TOP)

6 Gudgeon pin 7 Piston gudgeon pins 8 Big-end shell bearings

8.7B Sump pan nut, bolts and washers

24 Screw in the big-end bolts and tighten to

the specified torque (photo). 25 Refit the sump pan (Sec 8) and the cylinder head (Sec 7).

26 Refill the engine with oil and coolant.

10 Oil pump -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the sump pan as described in Section 8. 2 Unscrew the two bolts which hold the oil pump housing to the underside of the crankcase and withdraw the pump. Remove and discard the pump flange gasket.

Refitting

3 Stick a new gasket to the oil pump location on the underside of the crankcase (photo). 4 Locate the oil pump driveshaft in the oil pump and then offer up the complete assembly to the crankcase so that the gear teeth on the driveshaft mesh with those on the camshaft (photo).

5 Fit the securing bolts (photo). 6 Fit the sump pan and refill the engine with

oil.

11 Engine mountings -

renewal

1 The engine/transmission flexible mountings can be removed if the power unit is supported under the sump pan or gearbox with a jack, or a hoist is attached to the engine lifting lugs and the weight of the power unit just taken. 2 Unscrew the mounting bracket bolts and remove the mounting. 3 Fit the new mounting and remove the lifting gear. 4 In the unlikely event of all the mountings requiring renewal at the same time, renew them one at a time, never disconnect all the mountings together.

12 Engine - method of removal

1 The engine/transmission should be

removed downwards and withdrawn from under the front of the car which will have to be raised sufficiently high to provide clearance.

13 Engine/transmission -

removal and separation

1 Open the bonnet, disconnect the windscreen washer tube. 2 Mark the hinge positions on the underside of the bonnet using masking tape and then

with the help of an assistant to support its weight unbolt the bonnet and remove it to a safe place.

3 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 4 Drain the cooling system and engine oil. 5 Disconnect the leads from the rear of the

alternator, the starter motor and the oil pressure switch also the coolant temperature switch. 6 Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition coil and the LT lead from the distributor. Disconnect the transmission earth strap.

7 Remove the air cleaner. 8 Disconnect the clutch cable from the

release lever at the transmission. 9 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable by unscrewing the knurled nut from the transmission.

903 cc engine 1•13

10.3 Oil pump gasket

10.4 Fitting the oil pump 10.5 Tightening an oil pump bolt

9.24 Tightening a big-end bolt

Fig. 1.11 Speedometer drive cable at

transmission (Sec 13)

Fig. 1.10 Clutch cable disconnected (Sec 13)

C Reversing switch cables

Fig. 1.9 Coolant temperature switch

(Sec 13)

Fig. 1.20 Flywheel housing cover plate

removed (Sec 13)

Fig. 1.19 Left-hand flexible

mounting (Sec 13)

10 Disconnect the leads from the reversing

lamp switch. 11 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the cylinder head and coolant pump. 12 Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the fuel pump. Plug the hose. 13 Disconnect the throttle and choke controls from the carburettor. 14 Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine. 15 Disconnect the fuel return hose from the carburettor. 16 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. 17 Raise the front end of the car and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the roadwheels. 18 Unscrew the driveshaft to hub nuts. These are very tight and a long knuckle bar will be required when unscrewing them. Have an

assistant apply the brakes hard to prevent the hub turning. 19 Working under the car, remove the protective shields and disconnect the exhaust system mountings and withdraw it to the rear. 20 Disconnect the forward ends of the gearchange rods by prising their sockets from the ballstuds. 21 Unscrew the nuts on the steering tie-rod end balljoints and using a suitable “splitter” tool separate the balljoints from the steering arms. Unbolt the brake calipers and tie them up out of the way. 22 Unscrew and remove the bolts which secure the hub carriers to the U-clamps at the base of the suspension struts (photo). 23 Pull the tops of the hub carriers from the clamps and release the driveshafts from the hub carriers.

24 Tie the driveshafts in a horizontal plane with lengths of wire. 25 Support the engine on a hoist or use a trolley jack under the engine/transmission and remove the bottom mounting and then the upper left and right-hand ones (photo). 26 Carefully lower the power unit to the floor and withdraw it from under the car. 27 External dirt and grease should now be removed using paraffin and a stiff brush or a water-soluble solvent. 28 Unbolt and remove the engine mounting brackets and the starter motor. 29 Unbolt and remove the cover plate and gearchange ball stud strut from the lower front face of the flywheel housing. 30 With the engine resting squarely on its sump pan unscrew the flywheel housing connecting bolts noting the location of any lifting lugs and hose and wiring brackets.

1•14 903 cc engine

13.25 Right-hand engine mounting

Fig. 1.18 Hub carrier detached

from strut clamp (Sec 13)

13.22 Hub carrier strut clamp

Fig. 1.17 Tie-rod end balljoint

disconnected (Sec 13)

Fig. 1.16 Gearchange rods

disconnected (Sec 13)

Fig. 1.15 Fuel return hose

disconnected from carburettor

(Sec 13)

Fig. 1.14 Fuel inlet hose

disconnected from pump

(Sec 13)

Fig. 1.13 Coolant hose at rear

of coolant pump (Sec 13)

Fig. 1.12 Coolant hoses at

thermostat housing (Sec 13)

31 Support the weight of the transmission

and withdraw it in a straight line from the engine.

14 Engine - dismantling (general)

1 Stand the engine on a strong bench at a

suitable working height. Failing this, it can be dismantled on the floor, but at least stand it on a sheet of hardboard. 2 During the dismantling process, the greatest care should be taken to keep the exposed parts free from dirt. As the engine is stripped, clean each part in a bath of paraffin. 3 Never immerse parts with oilways in paraffin, e.g. the crankshaft, but to clean, wipe down carefully with a paraffin dampened rag. Oilways can be cleaned out with a piece of wire. If an air line is available, all parts can be blown dry and the oilways blown through as an added precaution. 4 Re-use of old gaskets is false economy and can give rise to oil and water leaks, if nothing worse. To avoid the possibility of trouble after the engine has been reassembled always use new gaskets throughout.

5 To strip the engine, it is best to work from the top downwards. The engine oil sump provides a firm base on which the engine can be supported in an upright position. When the stage is reached where the pistons are to be removed, turn the engine on its side. Turn the block upside down to remove the crankshaft. 6 Wherever possible, replace nuts, bolts and washers finger-tight from wherever they were removed. This helps avoid later loss and muddle. If they cannot be replaced then lay them out in such a fashion that it is clear from where they came.

15 Engine - removing ancillary

components

1 Before dismantling the engine, remove the engine ancillary components.

Carburettor (Chapter 3) Thermostat housing (Chapter 2) Alternator (Chapter 9) Coolant pump (Chapter 2) Distributor (Chapter 4) Exhaust manifold (Chapter 3) Fuel pump (Chapter 3) Oil filter cartridge (Section 2 this Chapter) Clutch (Chapter 5)

903 cc engine 1•15

Fig. 1.21 Camshaft and rocker gear components (Sec 16)

Fig. 1.22 Cylinder head, block and crankcase (Sec 16)

1 Camshaft bush

lockbolt 2 Washer 3 Camshaft front

bearing 4 Exhaust valve 5 Spring cap 6 Valve guide 7 Adjuster screw

8 Rocker arm

9 Thrust washer 10 Circlip 11 Locknut 12 Washer 13 Locknut 14 Pedestal 15 Rocker arm 16 Plug

17 Rocker shaft 18 Coil spring 19 Stud 20 Split collets 21 Spring cap 22 Valve guide 23 Outer valve spring 24 Inner valve spring 25 Spring seat

26 Inlet valve 27 Camshaft bearing 28 Camshaft bearing 29 Camshaft 30 Locating dowel 31 Cam follower 32 Pushrod 33 Washer

1 Washer 2 Cylinder head bolt 3 Gasket 4 Rocker cover

gasket

5 Rocker cover

6 Washer 7 Plate 8 Nut

9 Stud 10 Plug 11 Cylinder head

12 Plug 13 Cylinder head bolt 14 Washer 15 Dowel 16 Plug 17 Plug

18 Dowel 19 Block/crankcase 20 Plug 21 Plug 22 Bolt 23 Plug

Do not throw the old gaskets away as it sometimes happens that an

immediate replacement cannot be found and the old gasket is then very useful as a template. Hang up the gaskets on a suitable nail or hook as they are removed.

16 Engine -

complete dismantling

1 Unbolt and remove the rocker cover. 2 Unscrew the rocker pedestal securing nuts

and lift away the rocker assembly. 3 Remove the pushrods, keeping them in their original fitted order. 4 Remove the cylinder head as described in Section 7. Remove the dipstick and guide tube.

5 Turn the engine on its side and unbolt and remove the sump pan. 6 Remove the piston/connecting rods as described in Section 9. 7 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley nut. To prevent the crankshaft rotating while this is done, either jam the flywheel ring gear or place a block between a crankshaft counterweight and the inside of the crankcase.

8 Unbolt and remove the timing cover. 9 Remove the timing chain and sprockets as

described in Section 6.

10 Unbolt and remove the oil pump as described in Section 10. 11 Unscrew and remove the camshaft front bearing lockscrew noting that the chamfer on the bearing is on the inboard side. 12 Withdraw the camshaft, taking great care not to damage the bearings with the cam lobes. 13 Lift out the cam followers and keep them in their originally fitted sequence. 14 Unbolt and remove the flywheel. Jam the ring gear teeth to prevent rotation.

15 Remove the engine rear plate. 16 Turn the cylinder block so that it is

standing upside down. 17 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft rear oil seal carrier. Note the sump fixing studs. 18 The main bearing caps should be marked 1, 2 and 3 but if they are not, centre punch them and note which way round they are located. 19 Unscrew the main bearing cap bolts progressively. 20 Remove the bearing caps and half shells. If the shell bearings are to be used again, keep them with their respective caps. 21 Note the semi-circular thrust washers on either side of the centre main bearing which control crankshaft endfloat.

22 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase. 23 Remove the bearing shells from the

crankcase and mark them as to position if they are to be used again.

17 Cylinder head - dismantling

and decarbonising

1 The exhaust manifold and rocker gear will have been removed from the cylinder head during removal (see Section 7). 2 The valves should now be removed using a universal valve spring compressor. 3 Compress the first valve spring and extract the split cotters.

4 Gently release the compressor, take off the spring retaining cap, the valve spring and the spring seat. Remove the valve. Keep the valve with its associated components together and in numbered sequence so that they can be returned to their original positions. 5 A small box with divisions is useful for this purpose. Remove and discard the valve stem oil seals.

6 Remove the other valves in a similar way. 7 Bearing in mind that the cylinder head is of

1•16 903 cc engine

Fig. 1.23 Timing cover, sump pan and oil seals (Sec 16)

Fig. 1.24 Crankshaft and flywheel (Sec 16)

1 Sump pan bolt 2 Washer 3 Sealing strip 4 Side gasket 5 Side gasket 6 Block/crankcase 7 Gasket

8 Bolt

9 Washer 10 Bolt and washer 11 Crankshaft front oil

seal 12 Timing cover 14 Gasket

13 Fuel pump studs

and bush 15 Cover plate 16 Bolt and washer 17 Bolt 18 Bolt 19 Washer

20 Crankshaft rear oil

seal 21 Oil seal carrier 22 Gasket 23 Sealing strip 24 Sump pan 25 Drain plug

1 Centre main

bearing shells

2 Front main bearing

shells

3 Crankshaft 4 Plug 5 Starter ring gear

6 Dowel 7 Flywheel 8 Thrust plate

9 Bolt 10 Thrust washers 11 Rear main bearing

shells

If the valve spring refuses to compress, do not apply excessive force, but remove

the compressor and place a piece of tubing on the spring retainer and strike it a sharp blow to release the collets from the valve stem. Refit the compressor and resume operations when the collets should come out.

light alloy construction and is easily damaged use a blunt scraper or rotary wire brush to clean all traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces and the ports. The valve head stems and valve guides should also be freed from any carbon deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and ports down with paraffin and scrape the cylinder head surface free of any foreign matter with the side of a steel rule, or a similar article. 8 If the engine is installed in the car, clean the pistons and the top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are still in the block, then it is essential that great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston and rings. To ensure this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of their bores. Stuff rag into the other two bores or seal them off with paper and masking tape. The waterways should also be covered with small pieces of masking tape to prevent particles of carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the coolant pump.

9 With a blunt scraper carefully scrape away the carbon from the piston crown, taking care not to scratch the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon build-up the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish. Remove the rags or masking tape from the other two cylinders and turn the crankshaft so that the two pistons which were at the bottom are now at the top. Place rag in the cylinders which have been decarbonised, and proceed as just described. 10 Examine the head of the valves for pitting and burning, especially the heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seatings should be examined at the same time. If the pitting on the valve and seat is very slight, the marks

can be removed by grinding the seats and valves together with coarse, and then fine, valve grinding paste. 11 Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve seats it will be necessary to recut them and fit new valves. This latter job should be entrusted to the local agent or engineering works. In practice it is very seldom that the seats are so badly worn. Normally it is the valve that is too badly worn for refitting, and the owner can easily purchase a new set of valves and match them to the seats by valve grinding. 12 Valve grinding is carried out as follows. Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and turning the valve to redistribute the paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the grinding operation is complete. Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound, take great care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valve seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then with a clean rag, and finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve ports clean. 13 Check that all valve springs are intact. If any one is broken, all should be renewed. Check the free height of the springs against new ones. If some springs are not within specifications, replace them all. Springs suffer from fatigue and it is a good idea to renew them even if they look serviceable. 14 Check that the oil supply holes in the rocker arms are clear. 15 The cylinder head can be checked for warping either by placing it on a piece of plate glass or using a straight-edge and feeler blades. If there is any doubt or if its block face is corroded, have it re-faced by your dealer or motor engineering works. 16 Test the valves in their guides for side to

side rock. If this is any more than almost imperceptible, new guides must be fitted. Again this is a job for your dealer as a special tool is required to ensure the correct installation depth and the cylinder head must be warmed to 80ºC (176ºF) before fitting the guides. 17 Commence reassembly by oiling the stem of the first valve and pushing it into its guide which should have been fitted with a new oil seal (photos). 18 Fit the spring seat. Fit the valve spring so that the closer coils are towards the cylinder head and then fit the spring retaining cap. 19 Compress the valve spring and locate the split cotters in the valve stem cut-out (photo). 20 Gently release the compressor, checking to see that the collets are not displaced.

21 Fit the remaining valves in the same way. 22 Tap the end of each valve stem with a

plastic or copper-faced hammer to settle the components. 23 The cylinder head is now ready for refitting as described in Section 7.

18 Examination and renovation

1 With the engine stripped down and all parts thoroughly clean, it is now time to examine everything for wear. The following items should be checked and where necessary renewed or renovated as described in the following Sections.

Cylinder block and crankcase

2 Examine the casting carefully for cracks especially around the bolt holes and between cylinders. 3 The cylinder bores must be checked for taper, ovality, scoring and scratching. Start by examining the top of the cylinder bores. If they are at all worn, a ridge will be felt on the thrust side. This ridge marks the limit of piston ring travel. The owner will have a good indication of bore wear prior to dismantling by the quantity of oil consumed and the emission of blue smoke from the exhaust especially when the engine is cold. 4 An internal micrometer or dial gauge can be

903 cc engine 1•17

17.19 Fitting split collets17.17B Inserting a valve into its guide17.17A Valve stem oil seal

Press a little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons which are to be worked on.

used to check bore wear and taper against the Specifications, but this is a pointless operation if the engine is obviously in need of reboring due to excessive oil consumption. 5 Your engine reconditioner will be able to re-bore the block for you and supply the correct oversize pistons to give the correct running clearance. 6 If the engine has reached the limit for reboring then cylinder liners can be fitted, but here again this is a job for your engine reconditioner. 7 To rectify minor bore wear it is possible to fit proprietary oil control rings. A good way to test the condition of the engine is to have it at normal operating temperature with the spark plugs removed. Screw a compression gauge (available from most motor accessory stores) into the first plug hole. Hold the accelerator fully depressed and crank the engine on the starter motor for several revolutions. Record the reading. Zero the tester and check the remaining cylinders in the same way. All four compression figures should be approximately equal and within the tolerance given in the Specifications. If they are all low, suspect piston ring or cylinder bore wear. If only one reading is down, suspect a valve not seating.

Crankshaft and bearings

8 Examine the crankpin and main journal surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches. Check the ovality of the crankpins at different positions with a micrometer. If more than

0.001 inch (0.025 mm) out of round, the crankpins will have to be reground. They will also have to be reground if there are any scores or scratches present. Also check the journals in the same fashion. 9 Wear in a crankshaft can be detected while the engine is running. Big-end bearing and crankpin wear is indicated by distinct metallic knocking, particularly noticeable when the engine is pulling from low engine speeds. Low oil pressure will also occur. 10 Main bearing and journal wear is indicated by engine rumble increasing in severity as the engine speed increases. Low oil pressure will again be an associated condition. 11 Crankshaft grinding should be carried out

by specialist engine reconditioners who will supply the matching undersize bearing shells to give the required running clearance. 12 Inspect the connecting rod big-end and main bearing shells for signs of general wear, scoring, pitting and scratching. The bearings should be matt grey in colour. 13 If a copper colour is evident, then the bearings are badly worn and the surface material has worn away to expose the underlay. Renew the bearings as a complete set. 14 At the time of major overhaul it is worthwhile renewing the bearing shells as a matter of routine even if they appear to be in reasonably good condition. 15 Bearing shells can be identified by the marking on the back of the shell. Standard sized shells are usually marked STD or 0.00. Undersized shells are marked with the undersize such as 0.25 mm.

Connecting rods

16 Check the alignment of the connecting rods visually. If you suspect distortion, have them checked by your dealer or engine reconditioner on the special jig which he will have. 17 The gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the connecting rod small-end and removal or refitting and changing a piston is a job best left to your dealer or engine reconditioner due to the need for a press and jig and careful heating of the connecting rod.

Pistons and piston rings

18 If the cylinders have been rebored, then the reconditioner will supply the oversize pistons and rings and the gudgeon pins. Give the job of fitting the new pistons to the connecting rods to him. 19 If the original piston rings or just new rings are to be fitted to the original pistons, use great care to remove and fit the rings as they are easily broken if expanded too much. Always remove and fit rings from the crown end. 20 If three old feeler blades are slid behind the piston rings and located at equidistant points, the rings may be removed or fitted without their dropping into the wrong grooves and will reduce the chance of breakage (photo). 21 If the original pistons are being refitted, make sure that the ring grooves and their oil return holes are cleaned out and freed from carbon. A piece of piston ring is a useful tool for this purpose. 22 The three pistons rings are as follows:

Top - Thinner compression marked TOP Second - Thicker compression, step at base Bottom - Oil control (photo)

23 If proprietary wear control rings are to be fitted to overcome bore wear, fit them strictly in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 24 Always check the piston ring groove

1•18 903 cc engine

18.24A Checking piston ring groove clearance

18.22 Piston ring marking

18.20 Using feeler blades to fit piston ringsFig. 1.26 Piston/connecting rod

relationship (Sec 18)

Fig. 1.25 Checking a crankpin (Sec 18)

clearance and end gap. Both clearances should be checked with a feeler gauge. Check the end gap when the ring has been pushed squarely down the cylinder bore for two or three inches (photos). 25 If new rings are being used and the cylinder bores have not been rebored, always make sure that the top compression ring has been stepped to prevent it contacting the bore wear ridge.

Flywheel

26 Check the clutch mating surface of the flywheel. If it is deeply scored (due to failure to renew a worn driven plate) then it may be possible to have it surface ground provided the thickness of the flywheel is not reduced too much. 27 If lots of tiny cracks are visible on the surface of the flywheel then this will be due to overheating caused by slipping the clutch or “riding” the clutch pedal. 28 With a pre-engaged type of starter motor it is rare to find the teeth of the flywheel ring gear damaged or worn but if they are, then the ring gear will have to be renewed. 29 To remove the ring gear, drill a hole between the roots of two teeth taking care not to damage the flywheel and then split the ring with a sharp cold chisel. 30 The new ring gear must be heated to between 180 and 220ºC (356 and 428ºF) which is very hot, so if you do not have facilities for obtaining these temperatures, leave the job to your dealer or engine reconditioner. 31 Where such facilities are available, then the ring gear should be either pressed or lightly tapped gently onto its register and left to cool naturally, when the contraction of the metal on cooling will ensure that it is a secure and permanent fit. Great care must be taken not to overheat the ring gear, as if this happens its temper will be lost. A clutch input shaft pilot bearing is not fitted on this engine.

Camshaft

32 Examine the camshaft bearings for wear, scoring or pitting. If evident then the bearings will have to be renewed. The three bearings

are of different sizes and they can be removed and new ones fitted using a bolt, nut and distance pieces. When drawing a new bearing into position, make sure that the oil hole is correctly aligned with the one in the crankcase. The centre and rear bearings require reaming after fitting, the bearing at the timing chain end is supplied ready reamed (photo). 33 The camshaft itself should show no marks or scoring on the journal or cam lobe surfaces. Where evident, renew the camshaft or have it reprofiled by a specialist reconditioner. 34 Check the teeth of the camshaft sprocket for wear. Renew the sprocket if necessary.

Cam followers

35 Examine the bearing surface of the cam followers which are in contact with the camshaft. Any indentations or cracks must be rectified by renewal. Clean sludge and dirt from the cam followers and check their fit in their bores. Side to side rock is unusual except at very high mileage.

Timing chain

36 Examine the teeth on both the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket for wear. Each tooth forms an inverted “V” with the sprocket periphery and if worn, the side of each tooth under tension will be slightly concave in shape when compared with the other side of the tooth, ie; one side of the inverted “V” will be concave when compared with the other. If any sign of wear is present the sprockets must be renewed. 37 Examine the links of the chain for side slackness and particularly check the self-tensioning links for freedom of movement. Renew the chain if any slackness is noticeable when compared with a new chain. It is a sensible precaution to renew the chain at about 60 000 miles (96 000 km) and at a lesser mileage if the engine is stripped down for a major overhaul.

Cylinder head

38 This is covered in Section 17.

Rockers and rocker shaft

39 Thoroughly clean out the rocker shaft. As it acts as the oil passages for the valve gear, clean out the oil holes and make sure they are quite clear. Check the shaft for straightness by rolling it on a flat surface. If it is distorted, renew it. 40 The surface of the shaft should be free from any wear ridges caused by the rocker arms. If it is not, the shaft will have to be renewed. Blocked shaft oil holes often contribute to such wear. 41 Check the rocker arms for wear of the rocker bushes, for wear at the rocker arm face which bears on the valve stem, and for wear of the adjusting ball ended screws. Wear in the rocker arm bush can be checked by gripping the rocker arm tip and holding the rocker arm in place on the shaft, noting if there is any lateral rocker arm shake. If any shake is present, and the arm is very loose on the shaft, remedial action must be taken. It is recommended that a worn rocker arm be taken to your local FIAT agent or automobile engineering works to have the old bush drawn out and a new bush fitted (photo). 42 Check the tip of the rocker arm where it bears on the valve head, for cracking or serious wear on the case hardening. If none is present the rocker arm may be refitted. Check the pushrods for straightness by rolling them on a flat surface.

Oil pump

43 Unscrew the four securing bolts which connect the two halves of the pump body. 44 Clean all the components in a bath of paraffin and dry them. 45 Inspect the gears for wear or damage and then check for wear in the following way. 46 Insert a feeler blade between the tooth peak and the body. This should be between

0.05 and 0.14 mm (0.0019 and 0.0055 in). 47 Now place a straight-edge across the body flange and check for gear endfloat. This should be between 0.020 and 0.105 mm (0.0008 and 0.0041 in). Where the clearances exceed the specified limits, renew the pump. 48 Check that the oil pressure relief valve spring is in good condition and not deformed.

903 cc engine 1•19

18.41 Rocker components18.32 Camshaft bearing18.24B Checking piston ring end gap

Oil seals and gaskets

49 It is recommended that all gaskets and oil seals are renewed at major engine overhaul. Sockets are useful for removing or refitting oil seals. An arrow is moulded onto some seals to indicate the rotational direction of the component which it serves. Make sure that the seal is fitted the correct way round to comply with the arrow.

19 Engine - reassembly (general)

1 To ensure maximum life with minimum

trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must every part be correctly assembled, but everything must be spotlessly clean, all the oilways must be clear, locking washers and spring washers must always be fitted where indicated and all bearing and other working surfaces must be thoroughly lubricated during assembly. Before assembly begins renew any bolts or studs whose threads are in any way damaged; whenever possible use new spring washers. 2 Apart from your normal tools, a supply of non-fluffy rag, an oil can filled with engine oil, a supply of new spring washers, a set of new gaskets and a torque wrench should be gathered together.

20 Engine -

complete reassembly

Crankshaft and main bearings

1 With the cylinder block inverted on the bench, wipe out the crankcase shell bearing seats and fit the half shells so that their tabs engage in the notches (photo). 2 Stick the semi-circular thrust washers either side of the centre bearing in the crankcase using thick grease. Make sure that the oil grooves are visible when the washers are fitted (photo). 3 If the original bearing shells are being refitted, make sure that they are returned to their original positions. 4 Liberally oil the bearing shells and lower the crankshaft into position. Make sure that it is the correct way round (photos). 5 Wipe out the main bearing caps and fit the bearing shells into them. 6 Oil the crankshaft journals and fit the main bearing caps, the correct way round and in proper sequence (photo). 7 Replace the main bearing cap bolts and screw them up finger-tight. 8 Test the crankshaft for freedom of rotation. Should it be very stiff to turn, or possess high spots, a most careful inspection must be made, preferably by a skilled mechanic with a

1•20 903 cc engine

20.4B Lowering crankshaft into position

20.4A Oiling main bearing shells

20.2 Crankshaft thrust washer20.1 Fitting a main bearing shell

Fig. 1.27 Exploded view of oil pump (Sec 18)

1 Bolt 2 Bolt 3 Washers 4 Washer 5 Spring 6 Drive gear 7 Top housing 8 Driven gear

9 Plate 10 Pressure relief valve 11 Lower housing and

oil pick-up

12 Filter screen

micrometer to trace the cause of the trouble. It is very seldom that any trouble of this nature will be experienced when fitting the crankshaft. 9 Tighten the main bearing bolts to the specified torque wrench settings (photo). 10 Using a dial gauge or feeler blades inserted between a thrust washer and the crankshaft, check the crankshaft endfloat. If it exceeds the specified limit, the thrust washers can be changed for thicker ones (photo). 11 Bolt on the crankshaft rear oil seal carrier using a new gasket. The carrier should have been fitted with a new oil seal and the seal lips greased (photos). 12 Fit the engine rear plate (photo).

Flywheel

13 Offer the flywheel to the crankshaft. With pistons No. 1 and 4 at TDC, the dimple on the flywheel must be uppermost. 14 Screw in and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. The crankshaft may be held against rotation by either jamming the starter ring gear or placing a block of wood between one of the crankshaft webs and the inside of the crankcase (photo).

Camshaft

15 Oil the cam followers and return them to their original positions (photo). 16 Oil the camshaft bearings and insert the camshaft, taking great care not to damage the bearings with the cam lobes. Fit the front bearing, chamfer inwards (photos).

903 cc engine 1•21

20.10 Checking crankshaft end float20.9 Tightening main bearing cap bolts20.6 Fitting a main bearing cap

20.16B Camshaft front bearing20.16A Fitting camshaft

20.11B Crankshaft oil seal and carrier fitted

20.11A Crankshaft rear oil seal carrier and gasket

20.14 Tightening flywheel bolts20.12 Engine rear plate

20.15 Cam followers

17 Screw in the camshaft front bearing lockscrew (photo).

Oil pump

18 Refit the oil pump as described in Section 10.

Timing chain and sprockets

19 Fit the timing chain and sprockets as described in Section 6. Fit the Woodruff key to the crankshaft nose. 20 Using a new gasket, fit the timing chain cover, but leave the bolts finger tight (photo). 21 Apply grease to the lips of the timing cover oil seal and then push the crankshaft pulley into position. 22 Move the timing cover if necessary so that the pulley hub is centralised in the oil seal and then tighten the cover bolts. 23 Screw on the crankshaft pulley nut and tighten to the specified torque (photo).

Piston/connecting rods

24 Fit these as described in Section 9.

Sump pan

25 Fit the sump pan as described in Section 8.

Cylinder head

26 Stand the engine upright and fit the cylinder head as described in Section 7. 27 Insert the pushrods in their original fitted order. 28 With the rocker arm adjuster screws fully unscrewed, locate the rocker gear and screw on the fixing nuts. 29 Adjust the valve clearances as described in Section 5. 30 Locate a new gasket in position and fit the rocker cover (photo).

31 Screw on a new oil filter (Section 2).

21 Engine - refitting ancillary

components

1 Refer to Chapter 5 and refit the clutch, making sure to centralise the driven plate. 2 Fit the coolant pump as described in Chapter 2. Fit the thermostat housing if it was removed noting the air cleaner mounting bracket on the housing studs. 3 Fit the alternator and drivebelt as described in Chapter 9. 4 Refer to Chapter 3 and fit the exhaust manifold and hot air collector, the carburettor and spacer and the fuel pump. 5 Fit the distributor as described in Chapter

4. Fit the oil dipstick guide tube (photos).

22 Engine/transmission -

reconnection

1 Support the weight of the transmission and offer it squarely to the engine. The splined input shaft should pass easily through the hub of the driven plate, provided the plate has been centralised as described in Chapter 5. It may be necessary to align the splines with the hub grooves, in which case have an assistant turn the crankshaft pulley nut. The alignment dowels will make the connection stiff, so drawing the engine and transmission together with two connecting bolts will ease it. 2 Once the engine and transmission are fully engaged, insert and tighten all the connecting bolts. Locate the lifting eyes. 3 Bolt on the flywheel housing cover plate and the mounting brackets.

4 Bolt on the starter motor.

23 Engine/transmission -

refitting

1 The refitting operations are reversals of those described in Section 13.

2 Observe the following special points. 3 Tighten the engine mounting and front

suspension (disconnected) bolts to the specified torque when the hoist has been

1•22 903 cc engine

21.5B Dipstick guide tube support21.5A Dipstick guide tube20.30 Rocker cover nut and thrust plate

20.23 Tightening crankshaft pulley nut20.20 Timing cover20.17 Camshaft front bearing lockscrew

Hold the crankshaft against rotation either by jamming the starter ring gear or by

placing a block of wood between a crankshaft web and the inside of the crankcase.

removed and the weight of the car is again on its roadwheels.

4 Fill the cooling system. 5 Fill the engine with oil. 6 Replenish lost transmission oil. 7 Reconnect the battery. 8 Adjust the clutch pedal as described in

Chapter 5.

24 Engine - initial start-up after

overhaul or major repair

1 Make sure that the battery is fully charged and that all lubricants, coolant and fuel are replenished. 2 If the fuel system has been dismantled it will require several revolutions of the engine on the starter motor to pump the petrol up to the carburettor. 3 Turn the carburettor throttle speed screw

through one complete turn to increase the idle speed in order to offset the initial stiffness of new engine internal components. 4 As soon as the engine fires and runs, keep it going at a fast idle speed and bring it up to normal working temperature. 5 As the engine warms up there will be odd smells and some smoke from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits. The signs to look for are leaks of water or oil which will be obvious. 6 Check also the exhaust pipe and manifold connections as these do not always “find” their exact gas tight position until the warmth and vibration have acted on them and it is almost certain that they will need tightening further. This should be done, of course, with the engine stopped. 7 When normal running temperature has been reached, adjust the engine idle speed as described in Chapter 3. 8 Stop the engine and wait a few minutes to

see if any lubricant or coolant is dripping out when the engine is stationary. 9 Road test the car to check that the timing is correct and that the engine is giving the necessary smoothness and power. Do not race the engine - if new bearings and/or pistons have been fitted it should be treated as a new engine and run in at a reduced speed for the first 500 km (300 miles). 10 After the first 1500 km (900 miles) the cylinder head bolts must be re-torqued in the following way (engine cold). 11 Remove the air cleaner and rocker cover. Unscrew the first bolt (Fig. 1.7) through a quarter turn and then tighten it to final stage 2 torque (see Specifications). 12 Repeat on the remaining bolts, one at a time. 13 Check and adjust the valve clearances (Section 5). 14 Refit the rocker cover and air cleaner.

903 cc engine 1•23

26.4 Shim engraved mark26.2 Removing a shim from a cam follower25.4 Checking a valve clearance

Part 3: 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines

25 Valve clearances - checking

This should only be required if the valves have been renewed or ground in, or at high mileages when noise or poor engine performance indicates that a check is necessary.

It is important that each valve clearance is set correct otherwise the timing will be wrong and engine performance poor. If there is no clearance at all, the valve and its seat will soon burn. Always set the clearances with the engine cold. 1 Remove the camshaft cover. Jack-up a front wheel and engage top gear so that by turning the wheel, the crankshaft can be rotated. 2 Each valve clearance must be checked when the high point of the cam is pointing directly upward away from the cam follower. 3 Check the clearances in the firing order 1-3-4-2, No. 1 cylinder being at the timing belt end of the engine. This will minimise the amount of crankshaft rotation required.

4 Insert the appropriate feeler blade between the heel of the cam and the cam follower shim of the first valve. If necessary alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness, which will, of course, represent the valve clearance for this particular valve (photo). 5 Turn the crankshaft, check the second valve clearance and record it. 6 Repeat the operations on all the remaining valves, recording their respective clearances. 7 Remember that the clearance for inlet and exhaust valves differs - see Specifications. Counting from the timing cover end of the engine, the valve sequence is:

Inlet 2-3-6-7 Exhaust 1-4-5-8

26 Valve clearances -

adjustment

1 Check the valve clearances (Section 25). 2 Clearances which are incorrect will mean

the particular shim will have to be changed. To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft until

the high point of the cam is pointing directly upward. The cam follower will now have to be depressed so that the shim can be extracted. Special tools (A60642 and A87001) are available from your Fiat dealer to do the job, otherwise you will have to make up a forked lever to locate on the rim of the cam follower. This must allow room for the shim to be prised out by means of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim (photo). 3 Once the shim is extracted, establish its thickness and change it for a thicker or thinner one to bring the previously recorded clearance within specification. For example, if the measured valve clearance was 1.27 mm (0.05 in) too great, a shim thicker by this amount will be required. Conversely, if the clearance was 1.27 mm (0.05 in) too small, a shim thinner by this amount will be required. 4 Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved on them; although the engraved side should be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still occurs and often obliterates the number. In this case, measuring their thickness with a metric micrometer is the only method to establish their thickness (photo).

5 In practice, if several shims have to be changed, they can often be interchanged, so avoiding the necessity of having to buy more new shims than is necessary. 6 If more than two or three valve clearances are found to be incorrect, it will be more convenient to remove the camshaft carrier for easier removal of the shims. 7 Where no clearance can be measured, even with the thinnest available shim in position, the valve will have to be removed and the end of its stem ground off squarely. This will reduce its overall length by the minimum amount to provide a clearance. This job should be entrusted to your dealer as it is important to keep the end of the valve stem square. 8 On completion, refit the camshaft cover and gasket.

27 Camshaft and camshaft

carrier - removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery. 2 Remove the air cleaner (see Chapter 3). 3 Disconnect the fuel filter hose from the fuel

pump and tie it back, out of the way. 4 Identify and then disconnect any electrical leads which must be moved away to enable the camshaft cover to be withdrawn. 5 Identify and disconnect any vacuum gases which must be moved away to enable the camshaft cover to be withdrawn. 6 Unscrew the securing nuts and remove the camshaft cover. 7 Turn the crankshaft pulley nut until No. 4 piston is at TDC. This can be established as described in Section 28.

8 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. 9 Check that the timing mark on the camshaft

sprocket is aligned with, and adjacent to the pointer on the timing belt cover backplate. 10 Restrain the timing belt with the hand and release but do not remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. Release the belt tensioner pulley by slackening the pulley centre nut. Push the timing belt evenly from the sprockets, noting which way round the belt is

fitted if it is to be completely removed. The lettering on the belt is normally legible from the crankshaft pulley end of the engine when the belt is as originally fitted. 11 Unbolt the camshaft carrier and lift it sufficiently from the cylinder head to break the seal of the mating faces. Note: It is important not to allow the cam followers to pull out; they must be retained in their original locations. This can be done if the carrier is raised very slowly, until the fingers can be inserted to prise the cam followers onto their respective valve spring retainers. It is unlikely that the valve clearance adjusting shims will be displaced from their recesses in the cam followers because of the suction of the lubricating oil, but watch that this does not happen; the shims must also be retained in their originally fitted sequence. 12 Remove the previously loosened camshaft sprocket bolt and take the sprocket from the camshaft. 13 Unbolt and remove the camshaft end cover with its gasket. Withdraw the camshaft (photos). 14 Refitting is a reversal of the removal process, but observe the following points.

15 Use new gaskets. 16 Retain the cam followers and shims in

their bores in the camshaft carrier with thick grease; they must not be allowed to drop out when the carrier is lowered onto the cylinder head. 17 If the crankshaft or camshaft have been moved from their set positions, re-align the sprocket timing mark with the pointer on the belt cover and the crankshaft pulley or flywheel with the TDC mark. This must be observed otherwise the valves may impinge upon the piston crowns when the camshaft lobes compress any of the valve springs during bolting down of the carrier. 18 Screw in the carrier bolts and tighten them to the specified torque (photo). 19 Refit and tension the timing belt as described in Section 28.

20 Refit the camshaft cover and gasket. 21 Refit the hose and air cleaner. 22 Reconnect the battery.

28 Timing belt - renewal

1 Set No. 4 piston at TDC. Do this by turning the crankshaft pulley nut or by jacking up a front roadwheel, engaging a gear and turning the wheel until the mark on the flywheel is opposite to the TDC mark on the flywheel bellhousing aperture. Remove No. 4 spark plug, place a finger over the plug hole and feel the compression being generated as the crankshaft is rotated and the piston rises up the cylinder bore. 2 On some models the TDC marks on the crankshaft pulley and belt cover may be visible and can be used instead. 3 Remove the alternator drivebelt (Chapter 2, Section 8). Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. 4 Check that the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the pointer on the belt cover backing plate (photo). 5 Slacken the nut in the centre of the tensioner pulley and push in on the support to release the tension on the belt, then retighten the nut. Slide the drivebelt off the pulleys. 6 Check that the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys have not been moved from their previously aligned positions. 7 To check that the auxiliary shaft sprocket has not moved, take off the distributor cap and check that the contact end of the rotor arm is aligned with No. 4 HT lead contact in the cap.

1•24 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine

28.4 Camshaft sprocket alignment marks

27.18 Tightening a camshaft carrier bolt27.13B Withdrawing camshaft from carrier27.13A Removing camshaft end cover

8 Fit the new belt. Start at the crankshaft

drive pulley and, taking care not to kink or strain the belt, slip it over the camshaft pulley. The camshaft may have to be turned slightly to mesh the pulley with the teeth on the belt. Fit the belt on the tensioner pulley last; if this is difficult, do not lever or force the belt on, recheck the belt (photo). 9 Release the tensioner nut and rotate the crankshaft through two complete revolutions. Retighten the nut. The belt tension may be checked by twisting it through 90º with the finger and thumb. It should just turn through this angle without undue force. Note: The

above procedure serves only as a rough guide to setting the belt tension - having it checked by a FIAT dealer at the earliest opportunity is recommended.

10 Refit the timing belt cover (photo). Fit and tension the alternator drivebelt (Chapter 2, Section 8).

29 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

1 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 2). 2 Disconnect the battery. 3 Disconnect and plug the carburettor fuel

hoses. 4 Disconnect the throttle and choke linkage from the carburettor.

5 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs. 6 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the intake manifold. 7 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the thermostat housing. 8 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation system hoses from the rocker cover and carburettor.

9 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. 10 Release the timing belt tensioner pulley

bolt, then lever the pulley against the spring plunger and retighten the bolt to retain the tensioner pulley in the non-tensioned position. Slip the belt from the camshaft sprocket. 11 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the carburettor and intake manifold. 12 Disconnect the exhaust downpipes from the manifold. 13 If a crowfoot type wrench is available, the cylinder head nuts and bolts can be removed and the complete cylinder head camshaft carrier assembly withdrawn (photo). 14 If this type of wrench is not available however, remove the carrier first as described in Section 27. 15 If a crowfoot is available, unscrew the cylinder head nuts and bolts evenly and progressively starting with the centre ones and working towards both ends. 16 Rock the cylinder head by gripping the manifolds. Note: Do not insert a lever in

the gasket joint to prise the head from the block.

17 Pull the head off the studs and remove it to the bench. Remove and discard the old cylinder head gasket. 18 Unbolt and remove the hot air collecting shield for the air cleaner from the exhaust manifold. The exhaust and inlet manifolds can now be unbolted. The carburettor may remain on the inlet manifold. 19 Overhaul and decarbonising of the cylinder head is described in Section 39. 20 Refitting is a reversal of the removal process, but make sure the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks are set as described in Section 28 to avoid the valve heads digging into the piston crowns when the head is refitted. 21 Always use new gaskets. The cylinder

1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•25

Fig. 1.29 Timing belt arrangement (Sec 28)

1 Camshaft sprocket 2 Tensioner pulley locknut 3 Timing mark on crankshaft front oil seal

retainer 4 Crankshaft sprocket 5 Crankshaft sprocket timing mark 6 Auxiliary shaft sprocket 7 Tensioner bracket bolt 8 Tensioner pulley 9 Timing belt

10 Tensioner bracket 11 Tensioner spring

28.8 Slipping timing belt onto tensioner pulley

Fig. 1.28 TDC marks (1) at front of engine

(Sec 28)

Fig. 1.30 Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence (Sec 29)

28.10 Tightening timing belt cover nut 29.13 Using a crowfoot type wrench on a cylinder head bolt

head gasket must be fitted (ALTO visible) so that the oil pressure hole in the block is central in the copper ringed cut-out in the gasket (photos). Make sure that the gasket surfaces on head and block are perfectly clean and free from oil, otherwise the heat sealing (polymerisation) process of the gasket cannot take place. 22 Tighten the cylinder head nuts and bolts to the specified torque, in the sequence shown in Fig. 1.30. Follow the procedure very carefully owing to the special type (ASTADUR) of gasket used which hardens in use. Always keep a new cylinder head gasket in its nylon cover until just before it is required for use. 23 Oil the cylinder head bolts and washers and allow them to drain for thirty minutes. 24 Tighten the bolts in the following stages:

Stage 1 20 Nm (15 lbf ft) Stage 2 40 Nm (30 lbf ft) Stage 3 Through 90º Stage 4 Through 90º (photo)

Retightening the bolts after a running-in mileage is not required.

25 Fit the timing belt (Section 28). 26 Check the valve clearances (Section 26)

after the camshaft carrier has been fitted (Section 27).

27 Bolt on the camshaft carrier cover. 28 Reconnect all hoses, leads and controls. 29 Reconnect the battery and refill the

cooling system.

30 Sump pan -

removal and refitting

1 Position the car over an inspection pit or raise the front wheels on ramps.

2 Disconnect the battery. 3 Drain the engine oil. Unbolt and remove the

flywheel housing lower cover plate. 4 Unbolt the sump pan and remove it together with its gasket. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Always use a new gasket locating it on clean mating flanges and tighten the fixing bolts evenly and progressively (photo). 6 Fill the engine with oil and reconnect the battery.

31 Oil pump -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the sump pan as described in the preceding Section. 2 Unbolt the oil pump and withdraw it complete with driveshaft. 3 Use a new gasket when refitting the pump and prime the pump by pouring engine oil through the pick-up filter screen (photo).

32 Pistons/connecting rod -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the sump pan and the oil pump as described in Sections 30 and 31.

1•26 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine

Fig. 1.31 Piston/connecting rod assembly

diagram (Sec 32)

1 Matching numbers 2 Gudgeon pin offset 3 Auxiliary shaft Arrow indicates direction of rotation of crankshaft viewed from timing belt end

29.24 Tightening a cylinder head bolt through 90º using a protractor

31.3 Bolting on the oil pump30.5 Locating the sump pan gasket

29.21C Lowering cylinder onto block29.21B Cylinder head gasket in position -

cylinder block drain plug arrowed

29.21A Cylinder head gasket top face marking

2 The big-end bearing shells can be renewed

without having to remove the cylinder head if the caps are unbolted and the piston/connecting rod pushed gently about one inch up the bore (the crankpin being at its lowest point). If these shells are worn, however, the main bearing shells will almost certainly be worn as well. In this case, the engine should be removed for complete overhaul including crankshaft removal. 3 To remove the piston/connecting rods, remove the cylinder head as described in Section 29. 4 Grip the oil pick-up pipe and twist or rock it from its hole in the crankcase. It is an interference fit in the hole. 5 Unscrew the nuts from the big-end caps, then remove the caps with their bearing shells. The caps and their connecting rods are numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 from the timing cover end of the engine. The numbers are adjacent at the big-end cap joint and on the side of the crankcase furthest from the auxiliary shaft. 6 If the bearing shells are to be used again, tape them to their respective big-end caps. 7 Push each connecting rod/piston assembly up the bore and out of the cylinder block. There is one reservation; if a wear ridge has developed at the top of the bores, remove this by careful scraping before trying to remove the piston/rod assemblies. The ridge will otherwise prevent removal or break the piston rings during the attempt. 8 If the connecting rod bearing shells are to be used again, tape the shells to their respective rods. 9 Dismantling the piston/connecting rod is described in Section 18.

Refitting

10 Fit the new shells into the connecting rod and caps, ensuring the surfaces on which the shells seat, are clean and dry. 11 Check that the piston ring gaps are evenly spaced at 120º intervals. Liberally oil the rings and the cylinder bores. 12 Fit a piston ring clamp to compress the rings. 13 Insert the piston/connecting rod into the cylinder bore, checking that the rod assembly is correct for that particular bore. The cap and rod matching numbers must be furthest away from the auxiliary shaft (Fig. 1.31).

14 Push the piston into the bore until the piston ring clamp is against the cylinder block and then tap the crown of the piston lightly to push it out of the ring clamp and into the bore (photo). 15 Oil the crankshaft journal and fit the big-end of the connecting rod to the journal. Fit the big-end cap and nuts, checking that the cap is the right way round (photo). 16 Tighten the big-end nuts to the specified torque. The correct torque is important as the nuts have no locking arrangement. After tightening each big-end, check the crankshaft rotates smoothly (photo). 17 Refit the oil pick-up pipe, the cylinder head, oil pump and sump pan, all as described earlier.

18 Refill the engine with oil and coolant.

33 Engine mountings -

renewal

1 Three engine/transmission flexible mountings are used. 2 To renew a mounting, support the weight of the engine/transmission on a hoist or jack and unbolt and remove the mounting. 3 In the unlikely event of all three mountings requiring renewal at the same time, only disconnect them and renew them one at a time.

34 Engine - method of removal

1 The engine complete with transmission

should be removed by lowering it to the floor and withdrawing it from under the front of the car which will have been raised to provide adequate clearance.

35 Engine/transmission -

removal and separation

1 Open the bonnet, disconnect the windscreen washer tube. 2 Mark the hinge positions on the underside

of the bonnet and then with the help of an assistant to support its weight unbolt and remove the bonnet to a safe place.

3 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 4 Drain the cooling system and the engine

and transmission oils.

5 Remove the air cleaner. 6 From the rear of the alternator disconnect

the electrical leads. 7 Disconnect the leads from the starter motor, oil pressure and coolant temperature switches, also the oil temperature switch. 8 Disconnect the LT lead from the distributor and the HT lead from the ignition coil. 9 Disconnect the clutch cable from the release lever at the transmission. Also disconnect the speedometer drive cable (knurled ring). 10 Pull the leads from the reversing lamp switch. 11 Disconnect all coolant hoses from the engine. Also disconnect the brake servo hose from the intake manifold. 12 Disconnect the choke and throttle controls from the carburettor. 13 Disconnect the inlet hose from the fuel pump and plug the hose. 14 Disconnect the fuel return hose from the carburettor. 15 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the carburettor throttle block. 16 Raise the front of the car and remove the front roadwheels. 17 Unscrew and remove the driveshaft to hub nuts. These are very tight and a long knuckle bar will be required when unscrewing them. Have an assistant apply the brake pedal hard to prevent the hub from turning. 18 Working under the car, remove the inner wing protective shields and then disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. 19 Disconnect the exhaust pipe sections by removing the socket clamp just forward of the rear axle beam. Remove the front section. 20 Disconnect the forward ends of the gearchange rods by prising their sockets from the ballstuds. 21 Unscrew the nuts on the steering tie-rod end balljoints and then using a suitable “splitter” tool, separate the balljoints from the steering arms. 22 Unbolt the front brake hose support clips

1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•27

32.16 Tightening a big-end cap nut32.15 Fitting a big-end cap32.14 Fitting piston into cylinder bore

from the suspension struts and then remove the bolts which secure the hub carriers to the U-clamps at the base of the suspension struts. 23 Pull the tops of the hub carriers down and then outwards and push the driveshafts from them. 24 Unbolt the driveshaft inboard boot retainers and then remove the driveshafts from the transmission. 25 Support the engine on a hoist or use a trolley jack under the engine/transmission. Remove the bottom mounting and then the upper left and right-hand ones. 26 Lower the power unit to the floor by pushing it to the left-hand side to clear the right-hand mounting bracket and then swivel the gearbox towards the rear of the car. Withdraw the engine/transmission from under the car. 27 External dirt and grease should now be removed using paraffin and a stiff brush or a water-soluble solvent. 28 Unbolt and remove the engine mounting brackets and the starter motor. 29 Unbolt and remove the cover plate with the gearchange ball stud strut from the lower front face of the flywheel housing. 30 With the engine resting squarely on its sump pan, unscrew the flywheel housing connecting bolts, noting the location of any lifting lugs and hose and wiring clips. 31 Support the weight of the transmission and withdraw it in a straight line from the engine.

36 Engine - dismantling (general)

Refer to Section 14, Part 2.

37 Engine ancillary components

- removal

Refer to Section 15, Part 2 and also remove the intake manifold.

38 Engine -

complete dismantling

1 Have the engine resting squarely and supported securely on the work surface.

2 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. 3 Grip the now exposed timing belt with the

hands and loosen the camshaft sprocket. 4 Release the timing belt tensioner pulley centre bolt, then slip the belt from the pulley and sprockets to remove it. Note which way round the belt is fitted, usually so that the lettering on the belt can be read from the crankshaft pulley end of the engine.

5 Remove the camshaft sprocket.

6 Unbolt and remove the camshaft timing belt

cover backing plate. 7 Unbolt and remove the camshaft carrier cover. 8 Unbolt the camshaft carrier and lift it off very slowly, at the same time pushing the cam followers and their shims down with the fingers securely onto their respective valve springs. It is easy to remove the camshaft carrier too quickly with some of the cam followers stuck in it and as the carrier is lifted away, the cam followers will fall out. If this happens, the valve clearances will be upset as the cam followers and shims cannot be returned, with any certainty, to their original positions. Keep the cam followers and shims in their originally fitted order. 9 Unscrew and remove the cylinder head bolts and nuts, grip the manifold, rock the head and remove the complete cylinder head/manifold/carburettor assembly. Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket. 10 Unbolt the coolant pump from the side of the cylinder block and remove it complete with coolant distribution pipe. Remove the crankcase breather. 11 Remove the distributor/oil pump driveshaft. This is simply carried out by inserting a finger into the hole vacated by the distributor and wedging it in the hole in the end of the driveshaft. Lift the shaft out of mesh with the auxiliary shaft. Where the distributor is driven by the camshaft, a cover plate retains the oil pump driveshaft in position. 12 Unbolt and remove the sprocket from the end of the auxiliary shaft. The sprocket is held to the shaft with a Woodruff key. 13 Unbolt the auxiliary shaft retainer and withdraw the shaft from the crankcase. 14 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley nut. This is very tight and the flywheel starter ring gear will have to be jammed with a cold chisel or a suitably bent piece of steel to prevent the crankshaft rotating. 15 Withdraw the crankshaft sprocket, which is located by the Woodruff key. 16 Unbolt the front engine mounting bracket from the cylinder block, together with the timing belt cover screw anchor bush. Unbolt and remove the timing belt tensioner pulley. 17 Unscrew the flywheel securing bolts. The

starter ring gear will again have to be jammed to prevent the crankshaft rotating as the bolts are unscrewed. Mark the flywheel position in relation to the crankshaft mounting flange, then remove it. 18 Unbolt the front and rear crankshaft oil seal retainer bolts from the crankcase and the sump. Remove the oil seal retainers. 19 Turn the engine on its side, extract the remaining sump bolts and remove the sump. If it is stuck, try tapping it gently with a soft-faced hammer. If this fails, cut all round the sump-to-gasket flange with a sharp knife. Do not try prising with a large screwdriver; this will only distort the sump mating flange. 20 With the sump removed, unbolt and remove the oil pump. 21 Grip the oil pick-up pipe and twist or rock it from its hole in the crankcase. It is an interference fit in the hole. 22 Remove the piston/connecting rods as described in Section 32. 23 Before unbolting the main bearing caps, note that they are marked with one, two, three or four notches. No. 5 main bearing cap is unmarked. Note that the notches are nearer the auxiliary shaft side. 24 Unbolt and remove the main bearing caps. If the bearing shells are to be used again, tape them to their respective caps. The bearing shell at the centre position is plain, the others have a lubricating groove. 25 Carefully, lift the crankshaft from the crankcase, noting the thrust washers at No. 5 main bearing. These control the crankshaft endfloat.

39 Cylinder head - dismantling

and decarbonising

1 The operations are similar to those described for the ohv engine in Section 17 in respect of decarbonising and valve grinding. 2 To remove a valve, use a valve spring compressor to compress the first valve and then extract the split collets (photo).

3 Release the valve spring compressor. 4 Withdraw the valve spring cap and the

double valve springs (photos). 5 Remove the valve (photo).

1•28 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine

39.4A Valve spring cap39.2 Valve spring compressor and split

collets

6 Remove the spring seat (photo). 7 Discard the valve stem oil seal and fit a new

one (photo). 8 Remove the remaining valves in a similar way and keep the components in their originally fitted sequence. 9 Reassembly is a reversal of removal. Refit the components to their original positions, but renew the valve springs if their free length is less than that of a new spring or if the springs have been in operation for more than 80 000 km (50 000 miles). 10 The original valve clearance adjusting shims will no longer provide the correct clearances if the valves have been ground in or the seats recut. Only where dismantling of a valve was carried out to renew a spring is there any purpose in returning the shims to their original locations. Try to obtain the loan of eight thin shims from your dealer and insert them into the tappets (cam followers) before assembling the cam followers to the carrier, where they should be retained with thick grease (photo). 11 Fit the camshaft carrier, complete with cam followers and shims to the cylinder head. 12 Adjust the valve clearances as described in Section 26.

40 Examination and renovation

1 The procedures are similar to those described in Section 18 covering the following:

Cylinder block and crankcase Crankshaft and bearings Pistons and piston rings Flywheel

2 The following additional items must also be examined.

Oil pump

3 Carefully, clamp the pump housing in a vice, shaft downwards. 4 Take off the pump cover, with the suction pipe. This will release the oil pressure relief valve inside. Also inside is a filter.

5 Remove the internal cover plate.

6 Take out the driveshaft and the gears. 7 Clean and examine all the parts. Measure

the clearances against the Specifications. The end clearance is measured by putting a straight-edge across the cover face. 8 The oil pump should only need replacements after very long mileage, when the rest of the engine is showing great signs of wear. 9 The length of a new gear can be measured against the old gear to see if a new gear will restore the end clearance to the Specifications. Otherwise the housing must be changed. 10 The driven gear shaft is mounted in the housing with an interference fit. If there is any slackness, a new housing (which will come with shaft fitted) must be used. 11 The oil pump shares its drive with the distributor.

Camshaft, cam followers and shims

12 The camshaft journals and cams should be smooth, without grooves or scores. 13 Wear in the camshaft carrier bearings can only be rectified by renewal of the carrier. 14 Cam follower wear is usually very small and when they show slackness in their bores, it is probably the light alloy of the camshaft carrier which has worn. 15 Always measure the thickness of the valve clearance shims using a metric micrometer. Any grooving or wear marks in the shims should be rectified by renewal with ones of similar thickness.

Auxiliary shaft

16 The shaft journals, the fuel pump eccentric, and the drivegear for the distributor and oil pump should be smooth and shiny. If not, the shaft will have to be renewed. 17 The bushes should still be tight in the cylinder block, their oil holes lined up with those in the block. 18 Measure the bearing clearance. If excessive, the bushes will have to be renewed. They are a press fit, and require reaming with a special reamer after fitting. This is a job best done by a Fiat agent with the special tools. 19 Ensure the new bushes are fitted with the oil holes lined up.

20 Also check the driven gear and its bush. 21 It is recommended a new oil seal is fitted

in the endplate. Hold the shaft in a vice, and remove the pulley. Fit the new oil seal in the endplate, lips inwards.

Timing belt tensioner

22 Check the bearing revolves smoothly and freely, and has no play. Do not immerse it in cleaning fluid, as it is partially sealed. Wipe the outside, and then smear in some new general purpose grease. 23 The action of the spring will have been felt when the belt was taken off. It should be cleaned, and oiled, to prevent seizure through dirt and rust. 24 Note the circlip on the engine right-hand mounting bracket. This retains the timing belt tensioner plunger.

1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•29

39.6 Valve spring seat39.5 Removing a valve39.4B Double valve springs

39.10 Cam followers fitted to camshaft carrier

39.7 Valve stem oil seal

42.9 Fitting the auxiliary shaft

41 Engine - reassembly (general)

Refer to Section 19, Part 2.

42 Engine -

complete reassembly

Crankshaft and main bearings

1 Fit the bearing shells to their crankcase seats and to their caps. The seatings and backs of the shells must be spotlessly clean, otherwise tight spots will occur when the crankshaft is fitted. The centre bearing shell is plain (photo).

2 Fit the thrust washer halves to their locations at No. 5 bearing, noting that the oil grooves in the washers face outwards (photo). 3 Oil the surfaces of the bearing shells liberally and lower the crankshaft into position (photo). 4 Fit the main bearing caps to their correct locations, the correct way round (numerical chisel marks towards the auxiliary shaft). The rear cap is unmarked. Tighten the cap bolts to the specified torque (photos). 5 Check that the crankshaft rotates smoothly and freely. 6 At this stage, the crankshaft endfloat should be checked. Prise the crankshaft fully in one direction and measure the gap between the machined face of the flywheel mounting flange and the crankcase. Now push the shaft in the opposite direction and measure again. Ideally, a dial gauge should be used for these measurements, but feeler

blades will serve as a reasonable alternative. The difference between the two dimensions (feeler blades) or the total movement of the crankshaft (dial gauge) should be within the specified tolerance. If it is not, the thrust washers at No. 5 main bearing will have to be changed for thicker ones; this will require taking out the crankshaft again to reach them. 7 Fit new oil seals to the retainers and, using new gaskets, bolt the retainers to the front and rear ends of the crankshaft, having first filled the oil seal lips with grease (photos).

Pistons/connecting rods

8 The refitting operations are described in Section 32.

Auxiliary shaft

9 Lubricate the auxiliary shaft bearings and fit the shaft into the crankcase (photo). 10 Fit a new seal to the endplate and fit the

1•30 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine

42.7C Rear oil seal carrier42.7B Front oil seal carrier

42.7A Removing oil seal from carrier42.4B Tightening a main bearing cap bolt42.4A Number one main bearing cap

42.3 Lowering crankshaft into position42.2 Crankshaft thrust washers42.1 Main bearing shells

plate to the crankcase, using a new gasket (photos). 11 Fit the belt sprocket and partially tighten its bolt. Then, using an oil filter strap wrench or similar device to hold the sprocket against rotation, tighten the bolt to the specified torque. Take care not to damage the teeth of the sprocket, which is of fibre construction (photo).

Oil sump, sump pan and breather

12 Fit the oil drain pipe by tapping it into place, squarely in its hole in the crankcase. Tighten its retaining bolt (photo). 13 Bolt up the oil pump, using a new gasket at its mounting flange (photo).

14 Fit the sump (using a new gasket) and tighten the securing screws to the specified torque. Note the reinforcement washers (photo). 15 Insert the oil pump/driveshaft into the distributor hole. This does not have to be specially positioned as the distributor is splined to the shaft and can be set by moving its location in the splines (refer to Chapter 4) (photo). 16 Push the breather into its crankcase recess and tighten its securing bolt (photos).

Flywheel, crankshaft sprocket and pulley

17 Make sure that the flywheel-to-crankshaft mounting flange surfaces are clean. Although

the bolt holes have unequal distances between them, it is possible to fit the flywheel in one of two alternative positions at 180º difference. Therefore if the original flywheel is being refitted, align the marks made before removal. 18 If a new flywheel is being fitted, or if alignment marks were not made before dismantling, set No. 1 position at TDC (crankshaft front Woodruff key pointing vertically). Fit the flywheel to its mounting flange so that its timing dimple is uppermost and in alignment with the relative position of the TDC mark on the flywheel housing inspection window. 19 Insert the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque, jamming the ring gear to

1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•31

42.11 Tightening camshaft sprocket bolt. Note sprocket locking device

42.10B Tightening auxiliary shaft end plate bolt

42.10A Auxiliary shaft end plate and gasket

42.16B Crankcase breather and retaining bolt

42.16A Crankcase breather seal42.15 Fitting oil pump driveshaft

42.14 Tightening sump pan bolt

42.13 Locating oil pump and gasket

42.12 Tightening oil drain pipe bolt

prevent the flywheel turning. Fit the engine endplate (photo). 20 Fit the timing belt sprocket to the front end of the crankshaft (photo). 21 Fit the crankshaft pulley and the nut; tighten it to the specified torque, again jamming the starter ring gear to prevent the crankshaft from rotating (photo).

Cylinder head

22 Refitting is described in Section 29.

Camshaft carrier and camshaft

23 Refitting is described in Section 27.

Timing belt and tensioner

24 Refitting is described in Section 28, but make sure that the belt cover rear plate is bolted into position. If the engine mounting bracket was removed, bolt it into position

complete with the tensioner plunger to provide spring pressure to the belt pulley (photos).

Valve clearances

25 Check the valve clearances as described in Section 26. 26 Using new gaskets, bolt on the camshaft carrier cover plate and the inlet and exhaust manifolds using new gaskets. Fit the exhaust manifold hot air collector plate (photo). 27 Locate the engine rear plate on its dowels by sliding it behind the flywheel (photo).

43 Engine ancillaries - refitting

1 Bolt on the carburettor (Chapter 3).

2 Fit the coolant pump and thermostat

housing (Chapter 2). 3 Fit the alternator and tension the drivebelt (Chapters 9 and 2).

4 Fit the distributor (Chapter 4). 5 Fit the fuel pump (Chapter 3). 6 Fit the clutch (Chapter 5). 7 Fit a new oil filter cartridge (Section 2 of this

Chapter).

44 Engine/transmission -

reconnection and refitting

1 Offer the transmission to the engine making sure that the clutch has been centralised as described in Chapter 5 (photo).

1•32 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine

44.1 Offering transmission to engine42.27 Engine rear plate42.26 Tightening a camshaft carrier cover

nut

42.24C Engine mounting bracket with belt tensioner plunger (arrowed)

42.24B Belt cover mounting stud42.24A Belt cover rear plate

42.21 Crankshaft pulley and nut42.20 Fitting crankshaft timing belt

sprocket

42.19 Tightening flywheel bolts

2 Draw the engine and transmission together

by screwing in the connecting bolts. Refit lifting lugs and hose and wiring clips (photo). 3 Bolt the lower cover plate to the face of the flywheel housing.

4 Bolt the starter motor into position. 5 Bolt the mounting brackets into place. 6 Place the engine/transmission on the floor

ready for raising by hoist or jack into the engine compartment. 7 Raise the car and position it over the engine/transmission. 8 Hoist or jack the power unit upwards until the left and right-hand mountings can be connected (photos).

9 Remove the lifting mechanism and connect the bottom mounting (photos). 10 Connect the inboard ends of the driveshafts with the transmission and the outboard ends with the hub carriers. 11 Reconnect the hub carriers with the clamps at the base of the suspension struts. Tighten the fixing bolts to the specified torque. 12 Bolt the brake flexible hose support clips to the suspension struts. 13 Reconnect the tie-rod end balljoints tightening the nuts to the specified torque. 14 Reconnect the gearchange rods. The easiest way to do this is to force the sockets onto the ball studs using a pair of self-locking grips (photo).

15 Refit the exhaust system and reconnect the downpipe to the manifold (photo). 16 Screw on the driveshaft nuts and tighten them to the specified torque. Have an assistant apply the brake pedal hard to prevent the driveshaft from turning. 17 Refit the front roadwheels and lower the car to the floor. 18 Reconnect the carburettor fuel and coolant hoses. 19 Unplug the fuel hose and connect it to the pump. 20 Reconnect the choke and throttle controls to the carburettor. 21 Reconnect the coolant and heater hoses

1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•33

44.8B Left-hand engine mounting44.8A Raising engine/transmission into

engine compartment

44.2 Lifting lug at bellhousing bolt

44.15 Exhaust downpipe flange nuts44.14 Connecting a gearchange rod ball

cup

44.9B Lower mounting attachment bolts

44.9A Engine/transmission lower mounting44.8D Right-hand mounting bolted up44.8C Right-hand engine mounting

brackets

to the engine. Also reconnect the brake servo hose to the intake manifold (photos). 22 Reconnect the leads to the reversing lamp switch. Reconnect the transmission earth lead (photos). 23 Reconnect the clutch cable and adjust as described in Chapter 5. 24 Reconnect the speedometer drive cable to the transmission and tighten the knurled retaining ring. 25 Reconnect the low tension lead to the distributor and the high tension lead to the ignition coil. 26 Reconnnect the electrical leads to the

starter motor, the oil pressure and temperature switches and the coolant temperature switch.

27 Connect the leads to the alternator. 28 Refit the air cleaner. 29 Refill the cooling system. Refill the engine

with oil.

30 Reconnect the battery. 31 Refit the bonnet and connect the

windscreen washer tube. 32 Fit the inner wing protective shields (photo).

45 Engine - initial start-up after

major overhaul

1 If new bearings and rings have been fitted, it is likely that the engine will be stiff to turn so make sure the battery is well charged. 2 Switch on the ignition and check that appropriate warning lights come on. 3 Start up the engine. If it refuses to start, refer to the “Fault Finding” Section in the Reference section of this Manual. 4 Watch the oil pressure warning light and alternator charging indicator light. If there is no charge or if the oil pressure warning light does not go out after a second or two, having

had time to fill the new oil filter, switch off and recheck. 5 If the warning lights go out, set the engine to run on fast idle and check the engine for leaks. 6 Check the coolant level; it will probably go down as air locks are filled. 7 Keep the engine running at a fast idle and bring it up to normal working temperature. As the engine warms up, there will be some odd smells and smoke from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits. 8 When the engine running temperature has been reached, adjust the idling speed, as described in Chapter 3. Check and, if necessary, adjust the ignition timing using a stroboscope (see Chapter 4). 9 Stop the engine and wait a few minutes; check to see if there are any coolant or oil leaks. 10 Road test the car to check that the engine is running with the correct smoothness and power. If it does not, refer to “Fault finding” in the Reference section of this Manual. Do not race the engine. If new bearings and/or pistons and rings have been fitted, it should be treated as a new engine and run it at reduced speed for at east 800 km (500 miles). 11 After 800 km (500 miles) change the engine oil and filter.

1•34 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine

44.32 Inner wing protective shield44.26B Coolant temperature switch44.26A Oil pressure warning switch

44.22B Transmission earth lead

44.22A Reversing lamp switch on transmission

44.21B Brake servo hose at manifold44.21A Heater hose at manifold

Fault finding - all engines

Note: When investigating starting and uneven running faults, do not be tempted into snap diagnosis. Start from the beginning of the check

procedure and follow it through. It will take less time in the long run. Poor performance from an engine in terms of power and economy is not normally diagnosed quickly. In any event, the ignition and fuel systems must be checked first before assuming any further investigation needs to be made.

All engines 1•35

Engine fails to turn when starter operated

mm Battery discharged mm Battery terminals loose or corroded mm Battery earth to body defective mm Engine/transmission earth strap broken or loose mm Disconnected or broken wire in starter circuit mm Ignition/starter switch defective mm Starter motor or solenoid defective (see Chapter 9) mm Major mechanical failure (seizure) or long disuse (piston rings rusted

to bores)

Engine turns and fails to start

mm Battery discharged mm Battery terminals loose or corroded mm Battery or engine earth strap loose mm Starter motor connections loose mm Oil in engine/transmission too thick mm Starter motor defective mm Vapour lock in fuel line (in hot conditions or at high altitude) mm Blocked float chamber needle valve mm Fuel pump filter blocked mm Choked or blocked carburettor jets mm Faulty fuel pump mm Fuel tank empty mm Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) mm Shorted or disconnected low tension leads mm Dirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points mm Contact breaker point spring earthed or broken mm Faulty condenser mm Defective ignition switch mm Faulty coil mm Damp or dirty HT leads, distributor cap or plug bodies mm Broken, loose or disconnected LT leads mm Ignition leads connected wrong way round mm Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4) mm Valve timing incorrect (after rebuild)

Engine fires but will not run

mm Insufficient choke (cold engine) mm Fuel starvation or tank empty mm Ignition fault (see Chapter 4) mm Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Engine stalls and will not restart

mm Too much choke allowing too rich a mixture to wet plugs mm Float damaged or leaking or needle not seating mm Float lever incorrectly adjusted mm Ignition failure - sudden mm Ignition failure - misfiring precedes total stoppage mm Ignition failure - in severe rain or after traversing water splash mm No petrol in petrol tank mm Petrol tank breather choked mm Sudden obstruction in carburettor mm Water in fuel system

Engine slow to warm up

mm Choke linkage maladjusted mm Air cleaner temperature control unit defective mm Thermostat stuck open (see Chapter 2) mm Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Difficult starting when cold

mm Insufficient choke mm Fouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs mm Damp or dirty HT leads, distributor cap or spark plug bodies mm Dirty or maladjusted contact breaker points mm Other ignition fault or timing maladjustment (see Chapter 4) mm Fuel system or emission control fault (see Chapter 3) mm Poor compression (may be due to incorrect valve clearances, burnt

or sticking valves, blown head gasket, worn or damaged pistons, rings or bores)

mm Incorrect valve timing (after rebuild)

Difficult starting when hot

mm Incorrect use of manual choke mm Fuel line vapour lock (especially in hot weather or at high altitudes) mm Incorrect ignition timing mm Other fuel system or emission control fault (see Chapter 3) mm Poor compression (see above)

Engine lacks power

mm Ignition timing incorrect mm Contact breaker points incorrectly gapped mm Incorrectly set spark plugs mm Dirty contact breaker points mm Distributor automatic advance and retard mechanisms not

functioning correctly

mm Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4) mm Air cleaner choked mm Carburation too rich or too weak mm Fuel filter blocked mm Air filter blocked mm Faulty fuel pump giving top and fuel starvation mm Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) mm Poor compression mm Valve clearances incorrect mm Carbon build-up in cylinder head mm Sticking or leaking valves mm Weak or broken valve springs mm Worn valve guides or stems mm Worn pistons and piston rings mm Burnt out valves mm Blown cylinder head gasket (accompanied by increase in noise) mm Worn pistons and piston rings mm Worn or scored cylinder bore mm Brakes binding

Engine misfires throughout speed range

mm Defective or fouled spark plug mm Loose, cracked or defective HT lead mm Maladjusted, sticking or burnt valves mm Ignition timing incorrect mm Blown head gasket mm Fuel contaminated mm Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4) mm Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Poor engine braking

mm High idle speed mm Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) mm Low compression

Engine idles roughly

mm Mixture too weak mm Air leak in carburettor mm Air leak at inlet manifold to cylinder head, or inlet manifold to

carburettor

mm Carburettor incorrectly adjusted mm Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) mm Low tension leads on coil loose mm Low tension lead to distributor loose mm Dirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points mm Tracking across inside of distributor cover mm Faulty coil mm Ignition leads loose mm Spark plugs fouled or incorrectly gapped. mm Ignition timing incorrect mm Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4) mm Incorrect valve clearances mm Widely differing cylinder compressions mm Low battery voltage (charging fault) mm Battery leads loose on terminals mm Battery earth strap loose on body attachment point mm Engine earth lead loose

Pre-ignition (pinking) during acceleration

mm Incorrect grade of fuel being used mm Ignition timing over-advanced mm Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4) mm Engine overheated mm Excessive carbon build-up mm Fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) mm Valve timing incorrect (after rebuild) mm Mixture too weak

Engine runs on after switching off

mm Idle speed too high mm Incorrect type of spark plug mm Overheating mm Excessive carbon build-up mm Other emission control fault (see Chapter 3)

Oil being lost due to leaks

mm Leaking oil filter gasket mm Leaking rocker cover gasket mm Leaking timing gear cover gasket mm Leaking sump gasket mm Loose sump plug

Low oil pressure (verify accuracy of sender before dismantling engine!)

mm Oil level low mm Engine overheating mm Incorrect grade of oil in use mm Oil filter clogged or bypass valve stuck mm Pressure relief valve stuck or defective mm Oil pick-up strainer clogged or loose mm Main or big-end bearings worn mm Oil pump worn or mountings loose

Excessive oil consumption

mm Overfilling mm Leaking gaskets or drain plug washer mm Valve stem oil seals worn, damaged or missing after rebuild mm Valve stems and/or guides worn mm Piston rings and/or bores worn mm Piston oil return holes clogged

Oil contaminated with water

mm Excessive cold running mm Leaking head gasket mm Cracked block or head

Oil contaminated with fuel

mm Excessive use of choke mm Worn piston rings and/or bores

Unusual mechanical noises

mm Unintentional mechanical contact (eg fan blade) mm Worn drivebelt mm Worn valvegear (tapping noises from top of engine) or incorrect

clearance

mm Peripheral component fault (generator, coolant pump) mm Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under

load)

mm Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening

under load)

mm Small-end bushes or gudgeon pins worn (light metallic tapping) mm Piston slap (most noticeable when engine cold) mm Worn timing chain and gears (rattling from front of engine) mm Worn crankshaft (knocking, rumbling and vibration)

1•36 All engines

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “No loss” with radiator and integral expansion tank. Electric cooling

fan, belt-driven coolant pump, thermostat on cylinder head

General

Radiator fan cuts in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 94ºC (194 to 201ºF)

Radiator fan switches off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 89ºC (185 to 192ºF)

Thermostat opens:

903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 89ºC (185 to 192ºF)

1116 cc and 1301 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 to 87ºC (181 to 188.6ºF)

Fully open:

903 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100ºC (212ºF)

1116 cc and 1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95ºC (203ºF)

Expansion tank pressure cap rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.78 bar (11 lbf/in2)

Coolant

Capacity:

903 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.6 litre (8.1 pint)

1116 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 litre (10.6 pint)

1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 litre (10.9 pint)

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Temperature sender switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36

Coolant pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 25

Alternator adjuster and mountings nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36

Chapter 2 Cooling and heating systems

For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Coolant mixtures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Coolant pump - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Cooling system sensors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Description and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Drivebelt - tensioning and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Fault finding - cooling and heating . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter

Heater - dismantling, overhaul and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Heater unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Heating and ventilation system - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Radiator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Radiator fan thermostatic switch - removal, checking and refitting . 5

Radiator fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

2•1

Specifications

Contents

1 Description and

maintenance

1 The cooling system consists of a front-mounted radiator with built-in expansion tank, a coolant pump (belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley) and a thermostaticallycontrolled electric cooling fan. 2 In order to assist rapid warm-up, a

thermostat is located in a housing at the left-hand end of the cylinder head. The hose connections to the thermostat housing vary according to model. 3 The heater is supplied with coolant from the engine and incorporates a matrix and blower with the necessary controls. 4 The throttle valve plate block of the carburettor is coolant-heated as a means of improving fuel atomisation. 5 Maintenance is minimal as in theory no coolant should ever be lost from the

expansion tank. Regularly check that the coolant level is between 50.0 and 70.0 mm (1.97 and 2.8 in) above the MIN mark on the tank with the engine cold. The need for regular topping up will indicate a leak somewhere in the system. If one cannot be found suspect an internal leak in the engine although this is usually confirmed by a rise in the engine oil level and water on the dipstick (photo). Any topping-up should be done using an antifreeze mixture (see Section 3), not plain water.

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

6 Avoid unscrewing the expansion tank cap when the engine is hot, but if this must be done, cover the cap with a cloth to avoid scalding by escaping steam. 7 Periodically, check the condition of all coolant hoses and tighten the clips.

2 Cooling system - draining,

flushing and refilling

1 Set the heater temperature lever to maximum.

2 Unscrew the cap from the expansion tank. 3 Disconnect the radiator bottom hose and

unscrew the cylinder block drain plug (1116 cc and 1301 cc engines) and allow the coolant to drain. Refer to photo 29.21B, page 64. 4 If the system is in good condition with no sign of rust or dirt in the drained coolant, then it may be refilled immediately. If the system has been neglected and the antifreeze has not

been regularly renewed and there is evidence of rust and sediment in the drained liquid then flush the system through with a cold water hose. 5 If the radiator should appear to be clogged, it may be necessary to remove it (Section 7) invert it and reverse flush it using a cold water hose. If, after a reasonable period the water still does not run clear, the radiator should be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning system. Extensive damage should be repaired by a specialist or the unit exchanged for a new or reconditioned radiator. 6 Reconnect the bottom hose and screw in the drain plug. 7 Remove the plug (B) (Fig. 2.2) from the bleed hole in the heater hose. 8 Remove the plug (D) (Fig. 2.3) from the bleed hole in the expansion tank. 9 Pour antifreeze mixture slowly into the filler neck of the expansion tank until it is seen to come out of the expansion tank plug hole. Screw in the plug. 10 Add further coolant until it is seen to

dribble out of the hole in the heater hose. Screw in the plug. 11 Top up the expansion tank to the specified level and screw on the tank cap. 12 Start the engine and run it until the cooling fan cuts in. Switch off, allow to cool and top up if necessary to the specified mark on the expansion tank.

3 Coolant mixtures

1 In cold climates, antifreeze is needed for

two reasons. In extreme cases, if the coolant in the engine freezes solid it could crack the cylinder block or head. But also in cold weather, with the circulation restricted by the thermostat, and any warm water that is getting to the radiator being at the top, the bottom of the radiator could freeze, and so block circulation completely, making the coolant trapped in the engine boil. 2 The antifreeze should be mixed in the proportions advocated by the makers, according to the climate. There are two levels of protection. The first cuts risk of damage, as the antifreeze goes mushy before freezing. The second, valid all year round, is the corrosion protection it offers - see below. The normal proportion in a temperate climate to provide maximum protection against freezing and corrosion is 50% antifreeze and 50% water. 3 Use only ethylene glycol based antifreeze and preferably soft water. 4 Antifreeze should be left in through the summer. It has an important secondary function, to act as an inhibitor against corrosion. In the cooling system are many different metals, in particular the aluminium of the cylinder head. In contact with the coolant this sets up electrolytic corrosion, accentuated by any dirt in the system. This corrosion can be catastrophically fast. 5 After about two years, the effectiveness of the antifreeze’s inhibitor is used up. It must then be discarded, and the system refilled with new coolant. 6 In warm climates free from frost, an

2•2 Cooling and heating systems

Fig. 2.3 Plug (D) in expansion tank (Sec 2)Fig. 2.2 Plug (B) in heater hose (Sec 2)

1.5 Expansion tank cap

Fig. 2.1 Cooling system on 903 cc engine (Sec 1)

inhibitor should be used. Again, a reputable make giving full protection must be chosen and renewed every two years. Inhibitors with dyes are useful for finding leaks, and on some makes the dye shows when the inhibiting ability is finished.

4 Thermostat -

removal, testing and refitting

1 The thermostat assembly is mounted on the flywheel end of the cylinder block. 2 Unfortunately, the thermostat/housing is a complete unit and failure of the thermostat will necessitate the purchase of the complete component (photo). 3 If the thermostat/housing is removed from the engine, it can be suspended in water and the water heated to check out its opening temperature. Movement of the thermostat valve can be observed to some extent through the openings in the housing. 4 When refitting, always use a new gasket at its mounting face (photo).

5 Radiator fan thermostatic

switch - removal, checking

and refitting

1 Drain the cooling system. 2 If the thermostatic switch is being removed

because the fan is not operating and the switch is suspect, check the fan fuse first, before removing the switch.

3 To remove the switch, disconnect the leads from the terminals and unscrew the switch. 4 Connect a test bulb and battery across the switch terminals and then immerse the sensing part of the switch in a container of water. Heat the water and, using a thermometer, check the temperature of the water when the bulb lights up, indicating the switch is functioning. The switch should operate at approximately 194ºF (90ºC). Allow the water to cool and check that the switch cuts out at 185ºF (85ºC). Renew a faulty switch. 5 Refitting of the switch is the reverse of the removal procedure. Always fit a new O-ring on the switch.

6 Radiator fan -

removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the electrical leads from the radiator fan motor. 2 Unbolt the fan mounting struts from the radiator and lift the complete assembly away.

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

7 Radiator -

removal and refitting

1 Drain the cooling system. 2 Disconnect the electrical leads from the

radiator fan motor and thermostatic switch.

3 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the radiator (photos). 4 Release the clips from the top of the radiator and withdraw the radiator complete with fan from the engine compartment (photos). 5 The radiator is of combined plastic/metal construction and any repair should be left to specialists. In an emergency however, minor leaks from the radiator may be cured by using a radiator sealant with the radiator in situ. 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fill the cooling system as described in Section 2.

8 Drivebelt -

tensioning and renewal

1 The drivebelt for the alternator and coolant pump is correctly tensioned if it deflects through 10.0 mm (0.39 in) under moderate thumb pressure at the mid point of the longest run of the belt. 2 To tighten the belt, release the mounting and adjuster nuts on the alternator and prise the alternator away from the engine. Tighten the nuts when the belt is taut and then re-check the tension as previously described. Never over-tension a belt or the coolant pump or alternator bearings may be damaged. 3 Check the condition of the belt at regular intervals. If frayed or cracked, renew it in the following way. 4 Release the alternator mounting and adjuster nuts and push the alternator fully in

Cooling and heating systems 2•3

7.3A Radiator top hose4.4 Fitting thermostat housing

(1116 cc engine)

4.2 Thermostat housing

7.4B Removing radiator/fan assembly7.4A Radiator fixing clip7.3B Radiator hose to thermostat housing

towards the engine. Slip the belt off the pulleys. If this is difficult, turn the crankshaft pulley using a spanner on its retaining nut while pressing the belt over the edge of the pulley rim. Use this method to fit the new belt after first having engaged it with the coolant pump and alternator pulley grooves.

5 Tension the belt as previously described. 6 The tension of a new belt should be

checked and adjusted after the first few hundred miles of running.

9 Coolant pump - removal,

overhaul and refitting

Note: The design of the pump differs between the 903 cc and the other two engines, but the removal, overhaul and refitting operations are essentially similar.

1 To gain access to the coolant pump, open the bonnet and remove the air cleaner. 2 Slacken the alternator pivot and adjustment nuts, push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from the coolant pump pulley. Unplug and remove the alternator.

3 Drain the cooling system as previously described. 4 Disconnect the hoses from the coolant pump, also the metal coolant transfer pipe (photo). 5 Unscrew and remove the coolant pump securing bolts, and lift the pump from the engine. Peel away and discard the old gasket.

6 Clean away external dirt. 7 The pump is likely to need overhaul for

worn or noisy bearings, or if the gland is leaking. There is a drain hole between the gland and the bearings to prevent contamination of the bearing grease by leaks, and possible damage to the bearings. Gland

leaks are usually worse when the engine is not running. Once started, a leak is likely to get worse quickly, so should be dealt with soon. Worn bearings are likely to be noted first due to noise. To check them, the pulley should be rocked firmly, when any free movement can be felt despite the belt. But if the bearings are noisy, yet there is not apparently any free play, then the belt should be removed so the pump can be rotated by hand to check the smoothness of the bearings. 8 Dismantling and assembly of the pump requires the use of a press, and it is preferable to fit a new pump. 9 For those having the necessary facilities, overhaul can be carried out as follows. 10 Remove the retaining nuts and separate the two halves of the pump. 11 The pump shaft is an interference fit in the impeller, bearings, and pulley boss. How the pump is dismantled depends on whether only the gland needs renewing or the bearings as well, and what puller or press is available to get everything apart. 12 Assuming complete dismantling is required, proceed as follows. Supporting it close in at the boss, press the shaft out of the pulley. Pull the impeller off the other end of the shaft.

13 Take out the bearing stop screw. 14 From the impeller end, press the shaft

with the bearings out of the cover half of the housing. 15 Press the shaft out of the bearings, take off the spacer, the circlip, and the shouldered ring. 16 Do not immerse the bearings in cleaning

2•4 Cooling and heating systems

1 Pump body 2 Pump cover 3 Impeller 4 Connector for hose from

outlet to pump 5 Seal 6 Gasket

7 Circlip 8 Bearing shoulder washer

9 Inner seal 10 Inner bearing 11 Bearing retainment screw

and lock washer

12 Spacer 13 Outer seal 14 Outer bearing 15 Lock washer 16 Pulley 17 Pump shaft

Fig. 2.5 Sectional views of 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine coolant pump (Sec 9)

Fig. 2.4 Sectional view of 903 cc engine coolant pump (Sec 9)

9.4 Coolant distribution tube at rear of pump

1 Pump cover 2 Bearing spacer 3 Bearing stop screw 4 Cover nuts 5 Lifting bracket 6 Housing 7 Impeller 8 Gland (seal)

9 Circlip 10 Gasket 11 Shouldered ring 12 Grommets 13 Bearing 14 Pulley 15 Shaft

fluid. They are “sealed”. Liquid will get in, but a thorough clean will be impracticable, and it will be impossible to get new grease in. 17 Check all the parts, get a new gland, two new grommets, (1116 cc and 1301 cc) and a new gasket. Scrape all deposits out of the housing and off the impeller. 18 To reassemble, start by inserting the new grommets (1116 cc and 1301 cc) in the grooves by each bearing. Fit the circlip to the shaft, then the shouldered ring, bearings and spacer. Fit the shaft and bearing assembly into the cover. Fit the stop screw. Press on the pulley. 19 Fit the new gland (seal), seating it in its location in the cover. Press the impeller onto the shaft. The impeller must be put on part way, and then the housing held in place to see how far the impeller must go down the shaft to give the correct clearance, which is 0.8 to

1.3 mm (0.03 to 0.05 in) as shown in Figs. 2.4 and 2.5. 20 The impeller clearance can be checked through the coolant passage in the side of the pump. 21 Refitting is a reversal of the removal process, but use a new flange gasket and tension the drivebelt as described in Section 8 (photo).

22 Refill the cooling system.

10 Cooling system sensors

1 A coolant temperature sender switch is

located in the cylinder head (above No. 1 spark plug) on 903 cc engines and adjacent to No. 2 spark plug on 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines. 2 The switch operates the coolant temperature gauge and an excessive temperature warning lamp. 3 On some models, a level sensor is screwed into the side of the expansion tank. This sensor consists of a pair of reed switches within a capsule which are kept closed by the strong magnetic flux generated by the hydrostatic force inspired by the action of the coolant against the float. 4 If the coolant level drops then the magnetic

flux is weakened and the switches open. 5 In the event of a fault developing, before assuming that the cause is the sensor, check all connecting wiring.

11 Heating and ventilation

system - description

1 The heater is centrally mounted under the

facia and is of fresh air type.

2 Air is drawn in through the grille at the base of the windscreen. It then passes through the coolant heated matrix when it can then be distributed through selective outlets according to the setting of the control levers. 3 A booster fan is provided for use when the car is stationary or is travelling too slowly to provide sufficient air ram effect. 4 Fresh air outlets are provided at each end and centrally on the facia panel.

12 Heater unit -

removal and refitting

1 Drain the cooling system. 2 Disconnect the heater hoses at the engine

compartment rear bulkhead. 3 Working within the car under the facia panel, disconnect the leads from the heater blower by pulling the connecting plug apart. 4 If a radio is fitted, disconnect the aerial, earth, speaker and power leads from it.

Cooling and heating systems 2•5

Fig. 2.6 Checking impeller clearance

(Sec 9)

9.21 Fitting coolant pump (1116 cc engine)

Fig. 2.7 Heater and ventilation system (Sec 11)

A Fresh air inlet flap B Air distribution flap C Coolant valve

D Blower E Matrix

F Control levers G Footwell air duct

5 Pull off the knobs from the control levers (photo). 6 Extract the screws and take off the control indicator plate (photos). Disconnect the leads from the cigar lighter and carefully detach the fibre optic which provides the panel illumination. 7 Unscrew and remove the screws which hold the console to the heater unit and withdraw the console. 8 The control cables can be disconnected from the arms of the control flap valves (photos). 9 Unscrew the single screw from the upper face of the facia panel. This screw secures the

upper part of the heater casing (photo). 10 Unscrew the mounting nuts which hold the heater to the bulkhead (photo). 11 Lower the heater to the floor, taking care not to allow coolant to spill on the carpet. 12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fill the cooling system.

13 Heater - dismantling, overhaul

and reassembly

1 Remove the heater from the car as described in the preceding Section.

2•6 Cooling and heating systems

Fig. 2.10 Withdrawing heater matrix

(Sec 13)

Fig. 2.9 Control lever platform screw

(Sec 13)

12.10 Heater lower mounting bolt

12.9 Heater upper fixing screw

12.8A Heater coolant valve and control cable

Fig. 2.8 Extracting heater upper fixing

screw (Sec 12)

12.8B Heater flap valve cables

12.6B Removing heater control panel escutcheon

12.6A Heater control panel screw12.5 Pulling off heater control lever knob

2 The control lever mounting platform can be

removed after extracting its fixing screws. 3 The coolant control valve can be removed after extracting its fixing nuts. 4 Unscrew the screws which hold the heater matrix in the casing and then slide the matrix from its location.

5 If the matrix is leaking, do not attempt a repair, but obtain a new one. These are usually obtainable on an exchange basis from radiator repairers. 6 The heater casing can be separated after prising off the clips and removing the bolts. The blower motor/fan can then be lifted out.

7 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling, but set the cables to give complete range of travel between open and closed positions of the flap valve or coolant valve concerned.

Cooling and heating systems 2•7

Fig. 2.11 Exploded view of heater (Sec 13)

Fig. 2.12 Heater control components (Sec 13)

Fault finding - cooling and heating systems

2•8 Cooling and heating systems

Overheating

mm Insufficient coolant in system mm Pump ineffective due to slack drivebelt mm Radiator blocked either internally or externally mm Kinked or collapsed hose causing coolant flow restriction mm Thermostat not working properly mm Engine out of tune mm Ignition timing retarded or auto advance malfunction mm Cylinder head gasket blown mm Engine not yet run-in mm Exhaust system partially blocked mm Engine oil level too low mm Brakes binding

Engine running too cool

mm Faulty, incorrect or missing thermostat

Loss of coolant

mm Loose hose clips mm Hoses perished or leaking mm Radiator leaking mm Filler/pressure cap defective mm Blown cylinder head gasket mm Cracked cylinder block or head

Heater gives insufficient output

mm Engine overcooled (see above) mm Heater matrix blocked mm Heater controls maladjusted or broken mm Heater control valve jammed or otherwise

defective

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear mounted fuel tank, mechanically-operated fuel pump,

downdraught carburettor

Air cleaner element

903 cc (45) and 1116 cc (55) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W121

1116 cc (60) and 1299/1301 cc (70) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W136

Fuel tank

Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.0 litre (9.25 gal)

Octane rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Leaded 97 RON minimum (see Supplement for use of unleaded petrol)

Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L101

Carburettor - calibration (dimensions in mm)

Weber 32 ICEV 50/250/1

Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 903 cc engine

Venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Auxiliary venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.12

Air bleed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.70

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F89

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.47

Air idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Pump jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40

Pump outlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40

Superfeed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.80

Superfeed mixture jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.50

Fuel inlet needle valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50

Anti-syphon device . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.00

Idle mixture adjustment hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50

Float setting (fuel level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.5 to 11.0

Float setting (travel/stroke) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.0

Fast idle (throttle valve gap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 to 0.80

Accelerator pump delivery (ten strokes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 5.5 cc

Chapter 3 Fuel system

For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Accelerator cable - adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Air cleaner - servicing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Carburettor idle speed and mixture - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Carburettor (Solex C32 DISA 12) - servicing and adjustment . . . . . . 13

Carburettor (Solex C30 - 32 CIC/1) - servicing and adjustment . . . . 15

Carburettor (Solex C32 DISA 11) - servicing and adjustment . . . . . . 10

Carburettor (Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) - servicing and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Carburettor (Weber 32 ICEV 50/250/1) - servicing and adjustment . . 9 Carburettor (Weber 32 ICEV 51/250) - servicing and adjustment . . . 12

Carburettors (Weber 32 ICEE/250 and Solex C32 DISA 14) -

description and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Carburettors - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Choke control cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Description and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Economy meter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Fault finding - fuel system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter

Fuel level transmitter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Manifolds and exhaust system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

3•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Solex C32 DISA 11

Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 903 cc engine

Venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Auxiliary venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.4

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20

Air bleed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.35

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B03

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.525

Air idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20

Pump jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50

Pump outlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.45

Fuel inlet needle valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Anti-syphon device . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0

Idle mixture adjustment hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.10

Float setting (fuel level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 to 3.0

Fast idle (throttle valve gap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.90 to 1.0

Accelerator pump delivery (ten strokes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 to 4.5 cc

Weber 32 ICEE/250

Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 903 cc ES engine

Venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Auxiliary venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.07

Air bleed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F89

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.47

Air idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Pump jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40

Pump outlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.45

Superfeed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.85

Superfeed mixture jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.50

Fuel inlet needle valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50

Anti-syphon device . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.00

Idle mixture adjustment hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50

Float setting (fuel level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.5 to 11.0

Fast idle (throttle valve plate gap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 to 0.80

Accelerator pump delivery (ten strokes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 5.5 cc

Solex C 32 DISA/14

Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 903 cc ES engine

Venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Auxiliary venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.4

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20

Air bleed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.30

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B03

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.525

Idle air jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20

Pump jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.70

Pump outlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.45

Fuel inlet needle valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Anti-syphon device . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0

Idle mixture adjustment hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20

Float setting (fuel level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 to 3.0

Fast idle (throttle valve plate gap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.90 to 1.0

Accelerator pump delivery (ten strokes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 to 4.5 cc

Weber 32 ICEV 51/250

Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1116 cc engine

Venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Auxiliary venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.15

Air bleed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.90

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F74

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.47

Air idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.55

Pump jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40

Pump outlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.45

Superfeed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.90

Superfeed mixture jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.50

3•2 Fuel system

Weber 32 ICEV 51/250 (continued)

Fuel inlet needle valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50

Anti-syphon device. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.00

Idle mixture adjustment hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50

Float setting (fuel level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.5 to 11.0

Float setting (travel/stroke) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.0

Fast idle (throttle valve plate gap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.85 to 0.90

Accelerator pump delivery (ten strokes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 to 5.2 cc

Solex C 32 DISA/12

Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1116 cc engine

Venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Auxiliary venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.4

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.22

Air bleed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.57

Air idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.40

Pump jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.45

Pump outlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50

Superfeed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.15

Superfeed mixture jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0

Fuel inlet needle valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Anti-syphon device . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Idle mixture adjustment hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.70

Float setting (fuel level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 to 3.0

Fast idle (throttle valve plate gap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.90 to 1.0

Accelerator pump delivery (ten strokes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 to 4.0 cc

Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250

Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1301 cc engine

Primary Secondary

Venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 23

Auxiliary venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 5

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.87 0.95

Air bleed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.85 1.75

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F43 F38

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 0.50

Air idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.0 0.70

Pump jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.45 -

Pump outlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 -

Superfeed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 0.80

Superfeed mixture jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 2.00

Fuel inlet needle valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50

Anti-syphon device . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Idle mixture adjustment hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50

Float setting (fuel level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.75 to 7.25

Fast idle (throttle valve plate gap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.90 to 0.95

Accelerator pump delivery (ten strokes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 to 12.5 cc

Solex C 30/32 CIC/1

Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1301 cc engine

Primary Secondary

Venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 23

Auxiliary venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 4

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.15 1.27

Air bleed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.30 2.0

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 95

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 0.50

Air idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 1.60

Pump jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 -

Pump outlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.45 -

Fuel inlet needle valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Anti-syphon device . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.80

Idle mixture adjustment hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Float setting (fuel level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.5 to 7.5

Fast idle (throttle valve plate gap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.90 to 1.0

Accelerator pump delivery (ten strokes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 to 9.5 cc

Fuel system 3•3

Engine idle speed

At normal operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 to 850 rev/min

CO percentage at idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 maximum

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Exhaust manifold nuts (903 cc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Exhaust and intake manifold nuts (1116 cc, 1301 cc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 20

Fuel pump nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 20

Carburettor mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

3•4 Fuel system

2.11B Air cleaner mounting bracket and pipe clip

2.11A Air cleaner mounting studs (1116 cc)2.9 Crankcase vent hose at air cleaner

1 Description and

maintenance

1 The fuel system consists of a rear-mounted fuel tank, a mechanically-operated fuel pump and a carburettor and air cleaner. 2 On all engines except the 1301 cc a single venturi downdraught carburettor is fitted. On the 1301 cc version, a dual barrel carburettor is fitted. 3 Maintenance consists of periodically checking the condition and security of the fuel hoses to the pump and carburettor. The fuel pump cannot be cleaned or repaired and in the event of a fault developing, the pump must be renewed. 4 On ES versions, an electronic fuel cut-out device is fitted which reduces fuel consumption on overrun, see Chapter 9, Section 33.

2 Air cleaner - servicing,

removal and refitting

1 The air cleaner air intake draws air either from the front of the car or from the outside of the exhaust manifold according to ambient temperature (photo). 2 At an ambient temperature of 13ºC (55ºF) and above, the SUN symbol should align with the intake spout arrow head. Remove the cover nuts and turn the cover. 3 At an ambient temperature lower than this, move the air cleaner cover until the SNOWFLAKE symbol aligns with the intake spout arrow head.

4 At the intervals specified in “Routine Maintenance” renew the air cleaner filter

element. 5 To do this, remove the cover nuts and take off the cover (photo).

6 Take out the filter element and discard it. Wipe out the air cleaner casing (photo). 7 Locate the new element and refit the cover aligning the appropriate symbols.

903 cc engine

8 To remove the air cleaner from the 903 cc engine, unscrew the nuts and take off the cover. Lift out the filter element. 9 Unbolt the air cleaner casing from the carburettor flange and from the bracket on the rocker cover. Disconnect the vent hose (photo). 10 Disconnect the warm and cool air intake hoses from their collecting points and lift the air cleaner from the engine.

1116 cc and 1301 cc engines

11 Removing the air cleaner from the 1116 cc engine is similar to that described for the 903 cc engine, but having a cylinder head support bracket (photos).

2.6 Removing air cleaner element

2.5 Air cleaner cover2.1 Air cleaner hot air intake

12 The air cleaner on the 1301 cc engine is

mounted on the four flange studs of the carburettors, their nuts being accessible after the air cleaner lid has been removed and the filter element extracted. 13 Refitting of all types of air cleaner is a reversal of removal.

3 Fuel pump -

removal and refitting

1 On 903 cc engines, the fuel pump is mounted on the side of the timing chain cover and is driven by a pushrod from an eccentric on the front of the camshaft. 2 On the 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines, the fuel pump is mounted on the side of the crankcase and is driven by a pushrod from an eccentric on the auxiliary shaft. 3 The removal of both types of pump is carried out in a similar way. 4 Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the pump and plug the hose (photo). 5 Disconnect the fuel outlet hose from the pump. 6 Unscrew the pump fixing bolt and remove it together with spacer, pushrod and gaskets (photos). 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Make sure that a new gasket is located on each side of the spacer. 8 The gasket on the inboard side of the

spacer should always be 0.3 mm thick, but gaskets for the outboard side are available in thicknesses 0.3, 0.7 and 1.2 mm, as a means of adjusting the fuel pump pressure. The standard fuel pressure is 0.176 bar (2.55 lbf/in

). If the pressure is too high a thicker gasket should be used, if too low, fit a thinner one.

4 Fuel level transmitter -

removal and refitting

1 The transmitter is accessible after having removed the small cover panel from the floor of the car under the rear seat (tipped forward) with the floor covering peeled back (photo). 2 Disconnect the fuel flow and return hoses and the electrical leads from the transmitter. 3 Unscrew the securing ring and lift the transmitter from the tank. 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new rubber sealing ring.

5 Fuel tank -

removal and refitting

1 It is preferable to remove the fuel tank when it has only a very small quantity of fuel in it. If

this cannot be arranged, syphon out as much fuel as possible into a suitable container which can be sealed. 2 The tank is mounted just forward of the rear axle. 3 Disconnect the filler hose and the breather hose from the tank (photo). 4 Unscrew the mounting bolts from the support straps and lower the tank using a jack with a block of wood as an insulator. Release the handbrake cable from its support bracket on the side of the tank (photo). 5 Once the tank has been lowered sufficiently far, disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses, breather hose and sender unit leads and remove the tank from the car.

Warning: Never attempt to solder or weld a fuel tank yourself; always leave fuel tank

repairs to the experts. Never syphon fuel into a container in an inspection pit. Fuel vapour is heavier than air and can remain in the pit for a considerable time.

6 If the tank contains sediment or water, clean it out by using several changes of paraffin and shaking vigorously. In order to avoid damage to the sender unit, remove this before commencing operations. 7 Finally allow to drain and rinse out with clean fuel.

8 Refit by reversing the removal operations. 9 On 1984 and later models, the fuel tank is

of plastic construction.

Fuel system 3•5

3.6B Fuel pump spacer and pushrod3.6A Fuel pump on mounting studs3.4 Fuel pump

5.4 Fuel tank mounting straps5.3 Fuel tank filler and vent hoses4.1 Fuel tank transmitter

6 Carburettors - general

1 The need to completely overhaul a

carburettor is rare. A carburettor can normally be kept in good working order if the top cover is removed and the fuel mopped out of the fuel bowl. Individual jets can be removed and blown through. Never probe them with wire or

their calibration will be ruined.

2 Take the opportunity to check the jet sizes and other components against those listed in the Specifications in case a previous owner has substituted some of incorrect calibration. 3 When the stage is reached where the valve plate spindle bushes have worn, then the carburettor should be renewed complete. 4 When reassembling the carburettor, use new gaskets which can be obtained in a repair pack.

3•6 Fuel system

Fig. 3.8 C32 DISA 14 (Sec 6)

Fig. 3.6 Weber 32 ICEE/250 (Sec 6)

Fig. 3.5 Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250 (Sec 6)Fig. 3.4 Solex C32 DISA 12 (Sec 6)

Fig. 3.7 Solex C30/32 CIC/1 (Sec 6)

Fig. 3.3 Weber 32 ICEV 51/250 (Sec 6)Fig. 3.2 Solex C32 DISA 11 (Sec 6)Fig. 3.1 Weber 32 ICEV 50/250 (Sec 6)

Key to carburettor illustrations

1 Idle speed screw A Throttle valve plate 2 Anti-tamper plug an idle mixture adustment screw B Idle cut out device

7 Carburettor idle speed and

mixture - adjustment

1 All carburettors have their mixture adjustment set in production. The screw is fitted with a tamperproof cap. 2 Under normal circumstances, only the idle speed screw need be adjusted to set the engine idle speed to the specified level. 3 Before attempting to adjust the idle speed or mixture, it is important to have the ignition and valve clearances correctly set and the engine at normal operating temperature with the air cleaner fitted. 4 Where the mixture must be adjusted, prise out the tamperproof plug and turn the mixture screw in to weaken or out to enrich the mixture until the engine runs smoothly without any tendency to “hunt”. 5 Ideally an exhaust gas analyser should be used to make sure that the CO level is within the specified range. 6 Once the mixture has been correctly set, re-adjust the idle speed screw.

8 Carburettor -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the air cleaner. 2 Disconnect the flow and return fuel hoses

from the carburettor and plug them.

3 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the carburettor throttle valve plate block. Provided the cooling system is cold and not under pressure there should be almost no loss of coolant. Tie the hoses up as high as possible with a piece of wire. 4 Disconnect the vacuum and vent hoses from the carburettor. 5 Disconnect the throttle and choke controls from the carburettor. 6 Unscrew the mounting flange nuts and lift the carburettor from the intake manifold (photo). 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new flange gasket and make sure that the fuel return hose is routed above the air cleaner intake.

9 Carburettor

(Weber 32 ICEV 50/250/1) -

servicing and adjustment

1 The carburettor top cover with float may be removed without the need to withdraw the carburettor from the manifold. The other adjustments described will require removal of the carburettor. 2 Unscrew the filter plug from the top cover, clean the filter screen and refit it. 3 Extract the top cover fixing screws, lift the cover and tilt it to unhook it from the diaphragm capsule link rod. 4 Access to the fuel inlet needle valve is

obtained by carefully tapping out the float arm pivot pin. Take care, the pivot pin pillars are very brittle. 5 Check that the needle valve body is tight otherwise fuel can bypass the needle valve and cause flooding.

Float adjustment

6 Reassemble and check the float setting. Do this by holding the top cover vertically so that the float hangs down under its own weight. Measure dimension (A) (Fig. 3.10) which should be between 1 0.50 and 11.10 mm (0.41 to 0.44 in) with the gasket in position. If necessary, bend the float arm tab to adjust. 7 Now check the float travel which should be

45.0 mm (1.77 in). If adjustment is required, bend the end of the float arm.

Accelerator pump stroke

8 Using a twist drill as a gauge, open the throttle valve plate through 3.5 mm (0.138 in). 9 Turn the nut on the accelerator pump rod until it just makes contact with the pump control lever.

Fast idle adjustment

10 With the choke valve plate fully closed by means of the control lever, the throttle valve

Fuel system 3•7

Fig. 3.9 Fuel return hose correctly located

(Sec 8)

8.6 Carburettor mounting flange nut8.2 Fuel hose at carburettor

Fig. 3.10 Float setting diagram (Weber 32 ICEV 50/250) (Sec 9)

A = 10.5 to 11.0 mm (0.41 to 0.44 in) B = 45.0 mm (1.77 in)

Fig. 3.11 Accelerator pump setting diagram

(Weber 32 ICEV 50/250) (Sec 9)

X = 3.5 mm (0.138 in)

plate should be open (dimension A) (Fig. 3.1 2) between 0.75 and 0.80 mm (0.030 and

0.032 in). Adjust if necessary by means of the screw and locknut.

Anti-flooding device

11 This consists of a diaphragm capsule and link rod. 12 The condition of the diaphragm can be checked by applying a vacuum source to the hole in the throttle valve plate block. The vacuum pressure will drop if there is a leak. 13 Actuate the choke valve plate lever fully and depress the control lever of the anti-flooding device to simulate operating vacuum. 14 There should be a gap (Y) (Fig. 3.15) between the edge of the choke valve plate and the wall of the carburettor throat of between 3.75 and 4.25 mm (0.148 and

0.167 in). Any adjustment that may be needed should be carried out by bending the link rod.

10 Carburettor

(Solex C32 DISA 11) -

servicing and adjustment

1 The carburettor top cover with float may be removed without the need to withdraw the carburettor from the manifold. The other adjustments described will require removal of the carburettor.

2 Extract the top cover fixing screws, disconnect the small externally mounted tension spring and take off the top cover. 3 Access to the fuel inlet needle valve is obtained by carefully tapping out the float arm pivot pin. Take care, the pivot pin pillars are very brittle. 4 Check that the needle valve body is tight otherwise fuel can bypass the needle valve and cause flooding.

Float adjustment

5 Reassemble and check the float setting. Do this by inverting the top cover so that the weight of the float fully depresses the ball of the needle valve. The distance (A) (Fig. 3.16) between the float and the surface of the top cover flange gasket should be between 2.0 and 3.0 mm (0.079 and 0.118 in). If adjustment is required, alter the thickness of the washer under the needle valve.

Accelerator pump

6 Fill the carburettor float chamber and then operate the throttle valve plate lever several times to prime the pump. 7 Position a test tube under the accelerator

3•8 Fuel system

Fig. 3.16 Float setting diagram

(Solex C32 DISA 11) (Sec 10)

A = 2.0 to 3.0 mm (0.079 to 0.118 in)

Fig. 3.17 Adjusting accelerator pump rod

(Solex C32 DISA 11) (Sec 10)

Fig. 3.15 Choke valve gap opening

(Weber 32 ICEV 50/250) (Sec 9)

Y = 3.75 to 4.25 mm (0.148 to 0.167 in)

Fig. 3.14 Anti-flooding device vacuum

intake (Weber 342 ICEV 50/250) (Sec 9)

1 Vacuum intake hole

Fig. 3.12 Fast idle adjustment diagram (Weber 32 ICEV 50/250)

(Sec 9)

A = 0.75 to 0.80 mm (0.030 to 0.032 in)

Fig. 3.13 Anti-flooding device (Weber 32 ICEV 50/250)

(Sec 9)

Y = 3.75 to 4.25 mm (0.148 to 0.167 in)

pump jet and give ten full strokes of the throttle lever, pausing between each stroke to allow fuel to finish dripping. 8 The total volume of fuel collected should be between 2.5 and 4.5 cc. Adjust the nut on the pump control and if necessary to increase or decrease the volume of fuel ejected.

Fast idle adjustment

9 With the choke valve plate fully closed, the throttle valve plate should be open to give a dimension (X) (Fig. 3.18) of between 0.90 and

1.0 mm (0.035 to 0.039 in). Use a twist drill of suitable diameter to measure the gap. If necessary, adjust by means of the screw and locknut.

Anti-flooding device

10 Close the choke valve plate by means of the control lever. At the same time, push the lean out valve rod towards the valve. 11 There should be a gap (X) (Fig. 3.19) between the edge of the choke valve plate

and the carburettor throat of between 4.75 and 5.25 mm (0.187 to 0.207 in). Adjust if necessary by means of the screw and locknut on the lean out valve.

11 Carburettors (Weber 32 ICEE/

250 and Solex C32 DISA 14) -

description and adjustment

1 One of these carburettors is used on 903 cc ES engines. They are very similar to the Weber 32 ICEV 50/250 and Solex C32 DISA 11 already described in this Chapter except that a fuel cut-out solenoid valve is fitted in association with the Digiplex ignition system (see Chapters 4 and 9). 2 The solenoid valve cuts off the supply of fuel to the carburettor whenever the accelerator pedal is released during overrun conditions. 3 A fuel cut-out device control unit receives information regarding engine speed from the static ignition control unit. 4 A throttle butterfly switch relays information

that the accelerator pedal is in the released state. 5 At certain minimum idle speeds during deceleration, the fuel cut-out solenoid valve is re-energised so that engine idling is maintained without the tendency to cut out. 6 The Solex type control unit varies the fuel cut-out point according to the deceleration value.

Fault testing

7 Should a fault develop, connect a test lamp between the fuel cut-out solenoid switch and a good earth. 8 Connect a reliable tachometer to the engine in accordance with the maker’s instructions. 9 Start the engine and raise its speed to between 3000 and 4000 rev/min, then fully release the accelerator pedal. 10 The test lamp should only go out during the period when the accelerator pedal is released. Should the test lamp remain on all the time, or never come on, check the throttle switch earth and the solenoid switch connections. 11 Disconnect the multi-plug from the control unit. Switch on the ignition and check that a test lamp connected between contact 7 of the multi-plug and earth will illuminate. If it does not, there is an open circuit from connection 15/54 of the fuel cut-off switch. 12 Switch off the ignition and check for continuity between contact 3 of the multiplug and earth. An ohmmeter will be required for this test. 13 If there is no continuity (ohmmeter shows infinity), check all the system earth connections. Also check that the wiring plug under the control unit is properly connected. 14 Finally, check the engine speed signal. To do this, a tachometer must be connected to the single socket under the control unit within the engine compartment. 15 If the tachometer registers correctly then this confirms that the electronic ignition

Fuel system 3•9

Fig. 3.18 Fast idle adjustment diagram (Solex C32 DISA 11)

(Sec 10)

X = 0.90 to 1.0 mm (0.035 to 0.039 in)

Fig. 3.19 Anti-flooding device adjustment diagram

(Solex C32 DISA 11) (Sec 10)

X = 4.75 to 5.25 mm (0.187 to 0.207 in)

Fig. 3.21 Sectional view of fuel cut-off

switch (Solex C32 DISA 14) (Sec 11)

Fig. 3.20 Moving lean out valve rod

(Solex C32 DISA 11) (Sec 10)

X = 4.75 to 5.25 mm (0.187 to 0.207 in)

control unit is functioning, if the tachometer does not register, renew the ignition control unit. 16 If a replacement carburettor is to be fitted, only fit the Solex assembly including the control module, even if a Weber was originally fitted.

12 Carburettor

(Weber 32 ICEV 51/250) -

servicing and adjustment

1 This carburettor, fitted to 1116 cc engines, is very similar to the unit described in Section 9. 2 The fast idle adjustment procedure is identical, but note that dimension (A) (Fig.

3.12) should be between 0.85 and 0.90 mm (0.033 and 0.035 in). 3 The choke valve plate gap (Y) (Fig. 3.13) should be between 5.5 and 6.5 mm (0.22 and

0.26 in) and if adjustment is required, bend the stop on the control lever.

13 Carburettor

(Solex C32 DISA 12) -

servicing and adjustment

1 This carburettor is an alternative to the Weber fitted to 1116 cc engines. 2 The adjustments described in Section 9 apply.

14 Carburettor

(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250)

- servicing and adjustment

1 The carburettor top cover with float may be removed without the need to withdraw the carburettor from the manifold. The other adjustments described in this Section will require removal of the carburettor. 2 Extract the top cover fixing screws and lift away the top cover with float. Access to the fuel inlet needle valve is as described in Section 9 paragraphs 4 and 5.

Float adjustment

3 Hold the cover vertically so that the floats hang down under their own weight. Measure the distance between the float and the surface of the gasket on the top cover. This should be between 6.75 and 7.25 mm (0.27 and 0.29 in). 4 Bend the float arm if necessary to adjust the setting.

Primary valve plate opening

5 With the throttle valve plate control lever in contact with the stop, the primary valve plate should be open (dimension X Fig. 3.22) between 6.45 and 6.95 mm (0.25 and 0.27 in). If adjustment is required, carefully bend the lever stop.

Primary and secondary valve plate openings

6 With the throttle control lever fully actuated the valve plate gaps (X and Y Fig. 3.24) should be:

X = 13.5 to 14.5 mm (0.53 to 0.57 in)

Y = 14.5 to 15.5 mm (0.57 to 0.61 in)

Fast idle

7 Close the choke valve plate fully and check the gap (A) (Fig. 3.25) between the edge of the throttle valve plate and the carburettor throat. The gap should be between 0.90 and

0.95 mm (0.035 and 0.037 in), a twist drill is useful for measuring this. 8 If adjustment is required, carry this out using the screw and locknut.

Anti-flooding device (mechanically-operated)

9 With the choke control pulled fully out, it should be possible to open the choke valve plate to give a gap (X) of between 7.0 and

7.5 mm (0.28 and 0.30 in). If adjustment is required, carefully bend the stop on the control lever (Fig. 3.26).

3•10 Fuel system

Fig. 3.26 Anti-flooding device (mechanical)

adjustment diagram

(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)

X = 7.0 to 7.5 mm (0.28 to 0.30 in)

Fig. 3.25 Fast idle adjustment diagram

(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)

A = 0.90 to 0.95 mm (0.035 to 0.037 in)

Fig. 3.24 Throttle valve plate openings

(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)

X (primary) = 13.5 to 14.5 mm (0.53 to 0.57 in) Y (secondary) = 14.5 to 15.5 mm (0.57 to 0.61 in)

Fig. 3.23 Bending throttle lever stop (Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)

Fig. 3.22 Primary valve plate opening

(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)

X = 6.45 to 6.95 mm (0.25 to 0.27 in)

Anti-flooding device (automatic)

10 Pull the choke control fully out and hold the control lever, on the anti-flooding device, depressed. There should be a gap (Y) (Fig. 3.27) between the edge of the choke valve plate and the carburettor wall of between 3.75 and 4.25 mm (0.15 and 0.17 in). If adjustment is required, turn the adjuster screw provided.

15 Carburettor

(Solex C30-32 (CIC/1) -

servicing and adjustment

1 The carburettor top cover with float may be removed without the need to withdraw the carburettor from the manifold. 2 The other adjustments described in this Section will require removal of the carburettor. 3 Extract the top cover fixing screws and lift away the top cover with float. 4 Refer to Section 9 paragraphs 4 and 5 for details of removal of the fuel inlet needle valve.

Float adjustment

5 Invert the carburettor cover so that the

weight of the floats depresses the ball of the needle valve. 6 Measure the distance between the float and the surface of the cover gasket. This should be between 6.5 and 7.5 mm (0.26 and 0.30 in). If adjustment is required, change the thickness of the needle valve washer or carefully bend the float arm.

Accelerator pump

7 Refer to Section 10, paragraphs 6 and 7. The total volume of fuel collected should be between 7.5 and 9.5 cc. If the volume of fuel is incorrect, release the locknut and turn the adjuster screw on the pump lever then re-test the volume ejected.

Fast idle

8 Operate the choke control lever to close the choke valve plate. The gap between the edge of the primary throttle valve plate and the venturi wall should be between 0.90 and

1.00 mm (0.035 and 0.039 in). If adjustment is required, turn the nut on the fast idle rod.

Automatic anti-flooding device

9 The vacuum system of the device can be checked for leaks by applying a vacuum to the drilling in the carburettor throttle valve block. If vacuum cannot be maintained, renew the diaphragm.

Choke valve plate automatic opening

10 Move the choke control lever to fully close the choke valve plate and then press the lean out valve rod. There should now be a gap (X) (Fig. 3.32) between the edge of the choke valve plate and the wall of the carburettor throat of between 4.75 and 5.25 mm (0.187 and 0.207 in). 11 Where adjustment is required, release the locknut and turn the screw on the lean out valve.

16 Economy meter

1 This device is fitted to ES (energy saving)

models. It is essentially a vacuum gauge to advise the driver with regard to economical throttle opening related to engine and road speed. The point of change to a higher gear can also be deduced from this gauge. The latter facility is provided by an LED (light emitting diode). 2 Fault testing of the system is described in Chapter 9.

Fuel system 3•11

Fig. 3.29 Adjusting accelerator pump

stroke (Solex C30-32 CIC/1) (Sec 15)

Fig. 3.28 Float setting diagram

(Solex C30-32 CIC/1) (Sec 14)

A = 6.7 to 7.5 mm (0.26 to 0.30 in)

Fig. 3.32 Choke valve plate setting

(Solex C30-32 CIC/1) (Sec 15)

X = 4.75 to 5.25 mm (0.187 to 0.207 in)

Fig. 3.30 Fast idle screw on

Solex C30-32 CIC/1 (Sec 15)

A Choke control lever C Lean out valve B Fast idle adjustment

Fig. 3.31 Vacuum drilling for automatic

anti-flooding device (Solex C30-32 CIC/1)

(Sec 15)

Fig. 3.27 Anti-flooding device (automatic)

adjustment diagram

(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)

Y = 3.75 to 4.25 mm (0.148 to 0.167 in)

19.7A Exhaust pipe support rings

17 Accelerator cable -

adjustment and renewal

1 The socket type cable end fitting is detached from the carburettor throttle lever simply by prising it off the ball stud. 2 Adjustment can be carried out by releasing the locknut and turning the end fitting. With the accelerator pedal fully depressed, check that full throttle can be obtained at the carburettor. 3 To renew the cable, prise off the end fitting from the carburettor throttle lever. 4 Slip the cable sleeve from its retaining bracket (photo). 5 Working inside the car under the facia panel, slip the cable from the fork at the top of the accelerator pedal arm (photo).

6 Withdraw the cable through the engine compartment bulkhead. 7 Fit the new cable by reversing the removal operations, adjust as described in paragraph 2.

18 Choke control cable -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the air cleaner. 2 Release the choke outer cable clamp and

the inner cable from the swivel on the choke control lever (photo). 3 The choke control is of lever type. To remove it, extract its hinge screw, accessible when the lever is pulled upwards (photo). 4 Withdraw the choke cable assembly until the inner cable can be released from the hand

control lever and the choke warning lamp lead unplugged. 5 Withdraw the cable assembly through the engine compartment rear bulkhead. 6 Fit the new cable by reversing the removal operations. Before tightening the inner cable pinch screw at the carburettor, hold the choke valve plate open and pull the control lever out

2.0 or 3.0 mm, then tighten the screw. This will provide just enough free movement to ensure that when the control is pushed fully in the choke valve plate will remain fully open even with engine movement slightly stretching the cable.

19 Manifolds and exhaust

system

1 The intake manifold on 903 cc engines is integral with the cylinder head. 2 On the other engines, the intake and exhaust manifolds are mounted on the same side of the cylinder head. 3 A hot air collector plate is fitted over the exhaust manifold from where the air cleaner draws air when in the winter setting. 4 When fitting a manifold, thoroughly clean the cylinder head and manifold mating surfaces, use a new gasket and tighten nuts to the specified torque (photos). 5 The exhaust system on 903 cc models is of single downpipe, single silencer two section type.

3•12 Fuel system

19.4C Fitting intake manifold complete with carburettor

19.4B Fitting exhaust manifold

19.4A Manifold gasket18.3 Extracting choke control lever screw

18.2 Choke cable at carburettor17.5 Accelerator pedal17.4 Throttle cable sleeve and bracket

6 On 1116 cc and 1301 cc models, the

exhaust system is of dual downpipe, two silencer, two section type. 7 The exhaust system is flexibly mounted (photo). 8 Do not attempt to separate the sections of

the exhaust system, while in position in the car. Unbolt the pipe from the manifold and, using a screwdriver, prise off the flexible suspension rings. Provided the car is then raised on jacks, ramps or placed over an inspection pit, the complete exhaust

system can be withdrawn from under the car. 9 If only one section is to be renewed, it is far easier to separate once the complete system is out of the car. 10 When refitting, grease the pipe sockets and fit the clamps loosely until the suspension rings are connected and the downpipe bolted up (using a new copper gasket). Check the attitude of the sections with regard to each other and the adjacent parts of the underbody. Fully tighten the clamps and downpipe flange nuts, remembering to bend up the lockplate tabs on 1116 cc and 1301 cc models (photo). 11 On the larger engined models, it may be necessary to raise the vehicle at the rear and support it on axle stands so that the rear suspension hangs down and is fully extended. This will allow sufficient clearance between the axle and the body for the exhaust system to be withdrawn.

Fuel system 3•13

19.10 Exhaust pipe socket clamp19.7B Exhaust tailpipe mounting

Fault finding - fuel system

Unsatisfactory engine performance and excessive fuel consumption are not necessarily the fault of the fuel system or carburettor. In fact they more commonly occur as a result of ignition and timing faults. Before acting on the following it is necessary to check the ignition system first. Even though a fault may lie in the fuel system it will be difficult to trace unless the ignition is correct. The faults below, therefore, assume that this has been attended to first (where appropriate).

Smell of petrol when engine is stopped

mm Leaking fuel lines or unions mm Leaking fuel tank

Smell of petrol when engine is idling

mm Leaking fuel line unions between pump and carburettor mm Overflow of fuel from float chamber due to wrong level setting,

ineffective needle valve or punctured float

Excessive fuel consumption for reasons not covered by leaks or float chamber faults

mm Worn jets mm Over-rich setting mm Sticking mechanism mm Dirty air cleaner element

Difficult starting when cold

mm Choke control mm Insufficient use of manual choke mm Weak mixture

Difficult starting, uneven running, lack of power, cutting out

mm One or more jets blocked or restricted mm Float chamber fuel level too low or needle valve sticking mm Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel mm Induction leak

Difficult starting when hot

mm Excessive use of manual choke mm Accelerator pedal pumped before starting mm Vapour lock (especially in hot weather or at high altitude) mm Rich mixture

Engine does not respond properly to throttle

mm Faulty accelerator pump mm Blocked jet(s) mm Slack in accelerator cable

Engine idle speed drops when hot

mm Incorrect air cleaner intake setting mm Overheated fuel pump

Engine runs on

mm Idle speed too high

System type

Except ES engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery, coil mechanical breaker distributor

ES engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marelli Digiplex electronic with breakerless distributor

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 (No. 1 cylinder at crankshaft pulley end)

Mechanical breaker distributor

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marelli or Ducellier

Contact breaker points gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.37 to 0.43 mm (0.015 to 0.017 in)

Condenser capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.25 µF

Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 to 58º

Rotor rotational direction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise

Ignition timing (dynamic)

903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5º BTDC at idle

1116 and 1301 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10º BTDC at idle

Centrifugal advance:

903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 30 and 34º max

1116 and 1301 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 22 and 24º max

Vacuum advance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 10 and 14º max

Ignition coil

Primary winding resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 2.6 and 3.3 ohms depending upon make of coil

Secondary winding resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 6745 and 12 000 ohms depending upon make of coil

Marelli Digiplex electronic ignition

Rotor arm resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1000 ohms

Advance range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Between 6 to 10º and 47 to 51º

Engine speed sensor

Resistance on flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 612 to 748 ohms

Sensor to flywheel tooth gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 1.3 mm (0.0099 to 0.0512 in)

TDC sensor

Resistance on pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 612 to 748 ohms

Sensor to pulley tooth gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 1.0 mm (0.016 to 0.039 in)

Ignition coil

Primary winding resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.310 to 0.378 ohms

Secondary winding resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3330 to 4070 ohms

Chapter 4 Ignition system

For modifications and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Condenser (capacitor) - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Digiplex (electronic) - ignition checks and adjustments . . . . . . . . . . 10

Digiplex (electronic) ignition - location of components and

precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Distributor (mechanical breaker type) - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Dwell angle - checking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Fault finding - ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter

General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Ignition coil - (mechanical breaker ignition) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Ignition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Mechanical contact breaker - points servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

4•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Spark plugs

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC

Electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (0.031 in)

HT leads

903 cc (45) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-07

1116, 1299 and 1301 cc (55, 60 and 70) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05

Torque wrench setting Nm lbf ft

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

4•2 Ignition system

1 General description

On all models except the 903 ES engine version, a mechanical contact breaker type distributor is fitted.

On 45 Super ES models which have the 903 ES engine, an electronic (Digiplex) ignition system is used which incorporates a breakerless distributor.

Mechanical contact breaker system

For the engine to run correctly, it is necessary for an electrical spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber at exactly the right moment in relation to engine speed and load. The ignition system is based on feeding low tension voltage from the battery to the coil where it is converted to high tension voltage. The high tension voltage is powerful enough to jump the spark plug gap in the cylinders under high compression pressures, providing that the system is in good condition and that all adjustments are correct.

The ignition system is divided into two circuits, the low tension (LT) circuit and the high tension (HT) circuit.

The low tension (sometimes known as the primary) circuit consists of the battery, the lead to the ignition switch, the lead from the ignition switch to the low tension or primary coil windings, and the lead from the low tension coil windings to the contact breaker points and condenser in the distributor.

The high tension circuit consists of the high tension or secondary coil windings, the heavy ignition lead from the centre of the coil to the centre of the distributor cap, the rotor arm, and the spark plug leads and spark plugs.

The system functions in the following manner: High tension voltage is generated in the coil by the interruption of the low tension circuit. The interruption is effected by the opening of the contact breaker points in this low tension circuit. High tension voltage is fed from the centre of the coil via the carbon brush in the centre of the distributor cap to the rotor arm of the distributor.

The rotor arm revolves at half engine speed inside the distributor cap, and each time it comes in line with one of the four metal segments in the cap, which are connected to the spark plug leads, the opening of the

contact breaker points causes the high tension voltage to build up, jump the gap from the rotor arm to the appropriate metal segment, and so via the spark plug lead to the spark plug, where it finally jumps the spark plug gap before going to earth.

The ignition timing is advanced and

retarded automatically, to ensure the spark

occurs at just the right instant for the particular load at the prevailing engine speed.

The ignition advance is controlled mechanically, and by vacuum. The mechanical governor mechanism consists of two weights, which move out from the distributor shaft as the engine speed rises, due to centrifugal force. As they move

Fig. 4.1 Typical ignition circuit (mechanical contact breaker distributor) (Sec 1)

1 Control unit 2 Multi-plug 3 Ignition coil 4 Distributor cap

5 Crankshaft pulley 6 Flywheel 7 Battery 8 Rev counter

9 Spark plugs 10 Wiring connector S1 Engine speed sensor S2 TDC sensor

Fig. 4.2 Digiplex electronic ignition system (Sec 1)

outwards, they rotate the cam relative to the distributor shaft, and so advance the spark. The weights are held in position by two springs and it is the tension of the springs which is largely responsible for correct spark advancement.

The vacuum advance is controlled by a diaphragm capsule connected to the carburettor venturi. The vacuum pressure varies according to the throttle valve plate opening and so adjusts the ignition advance in accordance with the engine requirements.

Digiplex ignition system

This electronic system eliminates the mechanical contact breaker and centrifugal advance mechanism of conventional distributors and uses an electronic control unit to provide advance values according to engine speed and load. No provision is made for adjustment of the ignition timing.

Information relayed to the control unit is provided by two magnetic sensors which monitor engine speed and TDC directly from the engine crankshaft.

A vacuum sensor in the control unit converts intake manifold vacuum into an electric signal.

The control unit selects the optimum advance angle required and a closed magnetic circuit resin coil guarantees a spark owing to the low primary winding resistance.

Five hundred and twelve advance values are stored in the control unit memory to suit any combination of engine operating conditions.

No maintenance is required to the distributor used on this system.

Distributor drive

The mechanical breaker type distributor on 903 cc engines and the Digiplex type distributor on 903 cc ES engines are mounted on the cylinder head and driven from a gear on the camshaft through a shaft which also drives the oil pump.

The distributor on 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines is mounted on the crankcase and is driven from a gear on the auxiliary shaft as is also the oil pump.

2 Mechanical contact breaker

- points servicing

1 At the intervals specified in “Routine Maintenance”, prise down the clips on the

distributor cap and place the cap with high tension leads to one side.

2 Pull off the rotor. 3 Remove the spark shield. Mechanical wear

of the contact breaker reduces the gap. Electrical wear builds up a “pip” of burned metal on one of the contacts. This |prevents the gap being measured for re-adjustment, and also spoils the electric circuit.

Ducellier type distributor

4 To remove the contact breaker movable arm, extract the clip and take off the washer from the top of the pivot post. 5 Extract the screw and remove the fixed contact arm. 6 Clean the points by rubbing the surfaces on a fine abrasive such as an oil stone. The point surface should be shaped to a gentle convex curve. All the “pip” burned onto one contact must be removed. It is not necessary to go on until all traces of the crater have been removed from the other. There is enough metal on the contacts to allow this to be done once. At alternate services, fit new points. Wash debris off cleaned points and preservatives off new ones. 7 Now the distributor should be lubricated. This lubrication is important for the correct mechanical function of the distributor, but excess lubrication will ruin the electrical circuits, and give difficult starting. 8 Whilst the contact breaker is off, squirt some engine oil into the bottom part of the distributor, onto the centrifugal advance mechanism below the plate. 9 Wet with oil the felt pad on the top of the distributor spindle, normally covered by the rotor arm. 10 Put just a drip of oil on the pivot for the moving contact.

11 Smear a little general purpose grease onto the cam, and the heel of the moving contact breaker. 12 Refit the contact points and then set the gap in the following way. 13 Turn the crankshaft by applying a spanner to the pulley nut or by jacking up a front wheel, engaging top gear and turning the roadwheel in the forward direction of travel. Keep turning until the plastic heel of the movable contact arm is on the high point of a cam lobe on the distributor shaft. 14 Set the points gap by moving the fixed contact arm until the specified feeler blades are a sliding fit. Tighten the fixed contact arm screw. 15 Check the contact end of the rotor arm. Remove any slightly burnt deposits using fine abrasive paper. Severe erosion will necessitate renewal of the rotor. 16 Wipe out the distributor cap and check for cracks or eroded contacts (photo). Renew if evident or if the carbon brush is worn. 17 Refit the spark shield, rotor and distributor cap. 18 Setting the contact breaker gap with a feeler blade must be regarded as a means of ensuring that the engine will start. For optimum engine performance, the dwell angle must be checked and adjusted as described in Section 3.

Marelli type distributor

19 Open the points with a finger nail and inspect their condition. If they are badly eroded or burned, then they must be renewed. The contact points can only be renewed complete with carrier plate as an assembly. 20 Release the low tension leads from the terminals on the distributor body (photo). 21 Extract the screws which hold the vacuum advance capsule to the distributor body. Tilt the capsule and release its link rod from the contact breaker carrier plate (photo). 22 Prise out the E-clip from the breaker carrier and then withdraw the contact assembly from the top of the distributor shaft.

Ignition system 4•3

2.21 Extracting vacuum diaphragm unit screw

2.20 Marelli distributor2.16 Interior of distributor cap showing

carbon brush

Note the washers above and below the contact assembly (photos). 23 Fit the new contact assembly by reversing the removal operations. 24 Although the points gap is normally set in production, check it using feeler blades when the plastic heel of the movable arm is on a high point of the shaft cam. Adjust if necessary by inserting an Allen key (3.0 mm) into the socket-headed adjuster screw. 25 Carry out the operations described in paragraphs 14 to 17 in this Section.

3 Dwell angle - checking

The dwell angle is the number of degrees through which the distributor cam turns between the instants of closure and opening of the contact breaker points.

1 Connect a dwell meter in accordance with the maker’s instruction. The type of meter that operates with the engine running is to be preferred; any variation in contact breaker gap, caused by wear in the distributor shaft or bushes, or the height of the distributor cam peaks, is evened out when using this. 2 The correct dwell angle is given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. If the angle is too large, increase the contact points gap. If the angle is too small, reduce the points gap. Only very slight adjustments should be made to the gap before re-checking.

3 On Ducellier distributors, adjustment of the dwell angle can only be carried out by switching off the ignition, removing the distributor cap, rotor and spark shield and adjusting the points gap. 4 Re-check once the engine is running. Adjustment may have to be carried out several times to obtain the correct dwell angle. 5 On Marelli distributors, adjustment of the points gap (dwell angle) is carried out with the engine running by inserting a 3.0 mm Allen key in the hole provided in the distributor body. 6 Always check and adjust the dwell angle before timing the ignition as described in Section 4.

4 Ignition timing

1 Timing the ignition on engines with mechanical breaker distributors is carried out in the following way. 2 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the distributor diaphragm capsule (photo). 3 Have the engine at normal operating temperature and idling with a stroboscope connected in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 4 Point the stroboscope at the timing marks on the flywheel and the index on the aperture on the flywheel housing. The mark on the flywheel should be opposite to the BTDC mark on the index specified for your particular engine. Alternatively, use the notch on the crankshaft pulley and the marks on the timing belt cover (photo), but this will necessitate removal of the wheel arch shield. 5 If the marks are not in alignment, release the distributor clamp plate and turn the distributor gently until they are (photo). 6 Tighten the clamp plate nut, switch off the ignition, reconnect the vacuum hose and remove the stroboscope. 7 If there is any difficulty in seeing the timing marks clearly, highlight them by painting with quick-drying white paint.

4•4 Ignition system

4.4 Ignition timing marks on belt coverFig. 4.5 Flywheel housing timing marks

(Sec 4)

4.2 Distributor vacuum hose

Fig. 4.4 Adjusting Marelli type contact

breaker points gap (Sec 2)

Fig. 4.3 Marelli contact breaker (Sec 2)

2.22B Washers above contact breaker2.22A Marelli contact breaker E-clip

5 Condenser (capacitor) -

removal, testing and refitting

The purpose of the condenser (sometimes known as the capacitor) is to ensure that when the contact breaker points open there is no sparking across them which would weaken the spark and cause rapid deterioration of the points.

The condenser is fitted in parallel with the contact breaker points. If it develops a short circuit it will cause ignition failure as the points will be prevented from interrupting the low tension circuit. 1 If the engine becomes very difficult to start (or begins to misfire whilst running) and the breaker points show signs of excessive burning, suspect the condenser has failed with open circuit. A test can be made by separating the points by hand with the ignition switched on. If this is accompanied by a bright spark at the contact points, it is indicative that the condenser has failed. 2 Without special test equipment, the only sure way to diagnose condenser trouble is to replace a suspected unit with a new one and note if there is any improvement. 3 To remove the condenser from the distributor, take out the screw which secures it to the distributor body and disconnect its leads from the terminals. 4 When fitting the condenser, it is vital to ensure that the fixing screw is secure. The lead must be secure on the terminal with no chance of short circuiting.

6 Distributor -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the spark plug from No. 4 cylinder and then turn the crankshaft either by applying a spanner to the pulley nut or by jacking up a front wheel, engaging top gear and turning the wheel in the forward direction of travel. 2 Place a finger over the plug hole and feel the compression being generated as the piston rises up the cylinder bore. 3 Alternatively, if the rocker cover is off, check that the valves on No. 1 cylinder are closed. 4 Continue turning the crankshaft until the flywheel and flywheel housing (BTDC) ignition timing marks are in alignment. Number 4 piston is now in firing position. 5 Remove the distributor cap and place it to one side complete with high tension leads. 6 Disconnect the distributor vacuum hose and low tension lead (photo). 7 Mark the distributor pedestal mounting plinth in relation to the crankcase. Also mark the contact end of the rotor in relation to the rim of the distributor body.

8 Unbolt the clamp plate and withdraw the distributor. 9 Refit by having No. 4 piston at its firing position and the distributor rotor and pedestal marks aligned, then push the distributor into position, mating it to the splined driveshaft. 10 If a new distributor is being fitted then of course alignment marks will not be available to facilitate installation in which case, hold the unit over its mounting hole and observe the following. 903 cc engine: Distributor cap high tension lead sockets pointing towards alternator and at 90º to centre line of rocker cover. Contact end of rotor arm pointing towards No. 4 contact in distributor cap (when fitted). 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine: Distributor vacuum unit pointing downwards at 135º to rear edge of timing belt cover. Contact end of rotor arm pointing towards No. 4 contact in distributor cap (when fitted). 11 Tighten the distributor clamp bolt, reconnect the vacuum hose and the low tension leads. Refit the distributor cap. Screw in the spark plug. 12 Check the ignition timing as described in Section 4.

7 Distributor (mechanical

breaker type) - overhaul

Ducellier

1 The cap must have no flaws or cracks and the HT terminal contacts should not be severely corroded. The centre spring-loaded carbon contact is renewable. If in any doubt about the cap, buy a new one. 2 The rotor deteriorates minimally, but with age the metal conductor tip may corrode. It should not be cracked or chipped and the metal conductor must not be loose. If in doubt, renew it. Always fit a new rotor if fitting a new cap. 3 With the distributor removed as described in the preceding Section, take off the rotor and contact breaker.

4 To remove the contact breaker movable arm, extract the clip and take off the washer from the top of the pivot post. 5 Extract the screw and remove the fixed contact arm. 6 Carefully record the setting of the advance toothed segment and then remove the spring clip and vacuum capsule fixing screws and withdraw the capsule with link rod. 7 Pick out the lubrication pad from the recess in the top of the distributor shaft. Unscrew the screw now exposed. 8 Mark the relationship of the cam to the counterweight pins and then remove the cam assembly. 9 There is no way to test the bob weight springs other than by checking the performance of the distributor on special test equipment, so if in doubt, fit new springs anyway. If the springs are loose where they loop over the posts, it is more than possible that the post grooves are worn. In this case, the various parts which include the shaft will need renewal. Wear to this extent would mean that a new distributor is probably the best solution in the long run. Be sure to make note of the engine number and any serial number on the distributor when ordering. 10 If the mainshaft is slack in its bushes or the cam on the spindle, allowing sideways play, it means that the contact points gap setting can only be a compromise; the cam position relative to the cam follower on the moving point arm is not constant. It is not practical to re-bush the distributor body unless you have a friend who can bore and bush it for you. The shaft can be removed by driving out the roll pin from the retaining collar at the bottom. (The collar also acts as an oil slinger to prevent excess engine oil creeping up the shaft.)

Marelli

11 With the distributor removed from the engine, take off the spark shield and rotor. 12 Remove the contact breaker and carrier as described in Section 2. 13 Refer to paragraphs 9 and 10 for details of counterweight springs and shaft bushes (photo).

Ignition system 4•5

6.6 Distributor LT connection4.5 Distributor clamp plate nut

Reassembly

14 This is a reversal of dismantling. On Ducellier distributors, make sure that the advance toothed segment is returned to its original setting otherwise the advance curves for your particular engine will be upset.

8 Ignition coil (mechanical

breaker ignition)

1 Coils normally last the life of a car. The

most usual reason for a coil to fail is after being left with the ignition switched on but the engine not running. There is then constant current flowing, instead of the intermittent flow when the contact breaker is opening. The coil then overheats, and the insulation is damaged (photo). 2 If the coil seems suspect after fault finding, the measurement of the resistance of the primary and secondary windings (usually an ohmmeter) can establish its condition. If an ohmmeter is not available, it will be necessary to try a new coil.

9 Digiplex (electronic) ignition

- location of components and precautions

1 The main components of this system are located within the engine compartment as shown. 2 On cars equipped with this system, it is

4•6 Ignition system

Fig. 4.7 Main components of Digiplex ignition system (Sec 9)

8.1 Ignition coil

Fig. 4.6 Exploded view of typical Ducellier distributor (Sec 7)

1 Cap 2 Rotor 3 Movable breaker arm 4 Vacuum advance link 5 Fixed contact breaker arm 6 Contact breaker baseplate 7 Cam assembly

8 Centrifugal advance weight

control springs

9 Driveshaft and plate 10 Body 11 LT insulator 12 Condenser 13 Vacuum capsule

14 Cap retaining spring 15 Thrust washer 16 Spacer washer 17 Driving dog 18 Retaining pin 19 Felt pad

7.13 Marelli distributor centrifugal weights and springs

1 Control unit 2 Cut-out control unit 3 Ignition coil 4 Flywheel (engine

speed) sensor

5 Crankshaft pulley

(TDC) sensor

6 Vacuum hose

important that the following precautions are observed. 3 Never start the engine if the battery leads are loose. 4 Do not stop the engine by pulling off a battery lead. 5 Remove the control unit if ambient temperature (paint drying oven) is above 80ºC (176ºF). 6 Never connect or disconnect the multi-plug at the control unit unless the ignition is switched off. 7 Disconnect the battery negative lead before carrying out electric body welding.

10 Digiplex (electronic) ignition

- checks and adjustments

1 Without special equipment, any work on the system components should be restricted to the following.

Engine speed sensor

2 The gap between the sensor and the teeth of the flywheel should be between 0.25 and

1.3 mm (0.0099 to 0.0512 in). Any deviation will be due to mechanical damage to the sensor, no adjustment being possible.

TDC sensor

3 The gap between the sensor and one of the TDC reference marks on the crankshaft pulley should be between 0.4 and 1.0 mm (0.016 to

0.039 in). 4 Any deviation will be due to the sensor plate becoming loose. To reposition it will necessitate setting No. 1 piston at TDC which can only be carried out accurately by your dealer using special tools.

Supply circuit and continuity of coil primary winding

5 Connect a test lamp between contacts 11 and 9 of the multi-plug having first pulled it from the control unit. 6 Switch on the ignition, the test lamp should come on. If it does not, either the connection at the positive pole of the control unit or the coil primary winding is open.

Control unit earth

7 Connect a test lamp between contacts 8 and 9 of the multi-plug having first pulled it from the control unit. Switch on the ignition, the test lamp should come on. If it does not, improve the earth connection.

11 Spark plugs

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine, and the suitable type is specified at the beginning of this chapter. If

Ignition system 4•7

Fig. 4.9 Digiplex control unit (Sec 9)

1 Vacuum hose connector 2 Multi-plug socket

1 Control unit 2 Distributor 3 Ignition coil

4 TDC sensor 5 Wiring connector plug

6 Engine speed sensor 7 Wiring connector plug

Fig. 4.8 Location of Digiplex ignition system components (Sec 9)

Fig. 4.13 Test lamp connected between

terminals 8 and 9 of control unit multi-plug

(Sec 10)

Fig. 4.12 Test lamp connected between

terminals 11 and 9 of control unit

multi-plug (Sec 10)Fig. 4.11 TDC sensor gap (Sec 10)

Fig. 4.10 Engine speed sensor gap

(Sec 10)

this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 At the specified intervals, the plugs should be renewed. The condition of the spark plug will also tell much about the overall condition of the engine. 3 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture, or too hot a plug. (A hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly - a cold plug transfers it away quickly.) 4 If the tip of the insulator nose is covered with sooty black deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 5 The spark plug gap is of considerable importance, as, if it is too large or too small the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The spark plug gap should be set to the gap shown in the Specifications for the best results. 6 To set it, measure the gap with a feeler gauge, and then bend open, or close, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. 7 When fitting new plugs, check that the plug seats in the cylinder head are quite clean. Refit the leads from the distributor in the correct firing order, which is 1-3-4-2; No 1

cylinder being the one nearest the flywheel housing (903 cc) or timing belt (1116 or 1301 cc). The distributor cap is marked with the HT lead numbers to avoid any confusion. Simply connect the correctly numbered lead to its respective spark plug terminal (photo).

12 Ignition switch -

removal and refitting

1 Access to the steering column lock/ignition switch is obtained after removing the steering wheel and column shrouds (Chapter 10) and the column switch unit (Chapter 9). 2 In the interest of safety, disconnect the battery negative lead and the ignition switch wiring plug (photo). 3 Insert the ignition key and turn to the STOP position (photo).

4 Pull the two leads from the switch. 5 Turn the ignition key to MAR. 6 Using a screwdriver depress the retaining

tabs (1) (Fig. 4.16) and release the ignition switch. 7 Set the switch cam (2) so that the notches (3) are in alignment. 8 Insert the switch into the steering lock and engage the retaining tabs. 9 Turn the ignition key to STOP and connect the two leads. 10 Reconnect the battery and refit the steering wheel, switch and shrouds. 11 Removal and refitting of the steering

column lock is described in Chapter 10.

Note: The ignition key is removable when set to the STOP position and all electrical circuits will be off. If the interlock button is pressed, the key can be turned to the PARK position in order that the parking lamps can be left on and the steering lock engaged, but the key can be withdrawn.

4•8 Ignition system

Fig. 4.16 Typical ignition switch (Sec 12)

1 Retaining tabs 3 Alignment notches 2 Switch cam 4 Locating projection

12.3 Ignition key positions

1 AVV (Start) 3 Stop (Lock) 2 Park (Parking lights on) 4 MAR (Ignition)

12.2 Ignition switch and lock

11.7 Distributor cap HT lead markings

Fig. 4.15 Spark plug connections on

1116 cc and 1301 cc engines (Sec 11)

Fig. 4.14 Spark plug connections on

903 cc engine (Sec 11)

It’s often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint, to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage.

Fault finding - mechanical breaker ignition system

Ignition system 4•9

Engine fails to start

mm Loose battery connections mm Discharged battery mm Oil in contact points mm Disconnected ignition leads mm Faulty condenser

Engine overheats, lacks power

mm Seized distributor weights mm Perforated vacuum pipe mm Incorrect ignition timing

Engine starts and runs but misfires

mm Faulty spark plug mm Cracked distributor cap mm Cracked rotor arm mm Worn advance mechanism mm Incorrect spark plug gap mm Incorrect contact points gap mm Faulty condenser mm Faulty coil mm Incorrect timing mm Poor engine/transmission earth connections

Fault finding - Digiplex (electronic) ignition system

Engine fails to start

mm Excessive gap on TDC sensor mm TDC or engine speed sensor short circuited or earthed mm Defective ignition control unit mm Control unit multi-plug contacts corroded mm Defective coil

Engine lacks power, high fuel consumption

mm Incorrect ignition advance mm TDC sensor incorrectly set mm Distributor vacuum hose blocked

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dual-circuit hydraulic with servo unit and pressure regulating valve.

Discs front, drums rear. Handbrake mechanical to rear wheels.

Disc brakes

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single cylinder, sliding caliper

Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227.0 mm (8.94 in)

Disc thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.7 to 10.9 mm (0.42 to 0.43 in)

Minimum regrind thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 mm (0.35 in)

Minimum wear thickness of pad friction material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)

Caliper cylinder diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.0 mm (1.89 in)

Drum brakes

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single cylinder, with automatic adjusters

Drum internal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185.24 to 185.53 mm (7.30 to 7.31 in)

Maximum regrind diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187.0 mm (7.37 in)

Minimum shoe lining friction material thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)

Cylinder diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.05 mm (0.75 in)

Master cylinder bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.05 mm (0.75 in)

Vacuum servo diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158.5 mm (6.0 in)

Hydraulic fluid type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to DOT 3 or 4, or SAE J1703C

System capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.33 litre (0.58 pint)

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Caliper mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 39

Rear wheel cylinder mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Pressure regulating valve mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Master cylinder mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Rear brake backplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Chapter 8 Braking system

For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Brake disc - inspection, renovation or renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Brake drum - inspection, renovation or renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Disc pads - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Fault finding - braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter

General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Handbrake - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Handbrake cable - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Hydraulic hoses and pipes - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Pressure regulating valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Rear brake shoes - inspection and removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Stop lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Vacuum servo unit - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Vacuum servo unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Vacuum servo unit - servicing and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

8•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

3.4 Removing the caliper unit

1 General description

The braking system is of four wheel hydraulic type with discs on the front wheels and drums on the rear.

The hydraulic system is of dual-circuit type and incorporates a pressure regulator valve to limit pressure to the rear brakes during heavy braking to prevent rear wheel lock up.

A vacuum servo unit is fitted to some models.

The handbrake is mechanically operated on the rear wheels.

2 Maintenance

1 At the weekly service check, inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Topping up should only be required at very infrequent intervals and should only be necessary owing to the need for extra fluid in the hydraulic system caused by wear of the friction material of the disc pads and shoe linings. 2 The need for frequent or regular topping up will be due to a leak in the system, probably from a hydraulic cylinder seal or a flexible hose. Correct the problem immediately. 3 Use only clean new fluid for topping up. lt must be of the specified type and have been stored in a closed container and not have been shaken for at least 24 hours (photo). 4 At regular intervals, check the hoses and pipelines for condition. Adjust the handbrake if the lever travel becomes excessive. Check the condition and security of the brake servo vacuum hose. All these operations are described later in this Chapter.

3 Disc pads -

inspection and renewal

1 Jack up the front of the car and remove the roadwheels. 2 Extract the spring clips and slide out the locking blocks (photos). 3 On SX versions, carefully disconnect the wear sensor lead connecting plug. 4 Lift the caliper body from the disc and inspect the thickness of the friction material on each pad (photo). If it is 1.5 mm (0.06 in) or less, renew the pads. 5 Withdraw the pads and the anti-rattle springs. 6 Brush away any dust and dirt from the caliper, taking care not to inhale the dust - this contains asbestos and is thus potentially injurious to health. 7 As the new pads are thicker than the old ones, the caliper piston must be depressed

8•2 Braking system

3.8A Disc pad and anti-rattle spring

Fig. 8.1 Components of the braking system (LHD shown) (Sec 1)

1 Caliper 2 Hose 3 Master cylinder 4 Fluid reservoir

5 Cap and fluid level sensor 6 Vacuum servo unit 7 Rear wheel cylinder

8 Pipeline 9 Hose

10 Pressure regulating valve

3.2B Removing a locking block

3.2A Removing a disc pad locking block clip

2.3 Fluid reservoir cap and float for warning switch

into its cylinder to accommodate them. This will cause the fluid level to rise in the reservoir. Anticipate this by syphoning some out beforehand, but take care not to let it drip onto the paintwork - it acts as an effective paint stripperl 8 Refit the anti-rattle springs, the pads (friction lining-to-disc), the cylinder body, the locking blocks and their retaining clips (photos). 9 Refit the roadwheel and apply the footbrake hard, several times, to bring the pads into contact with the brake disc. 10 Renew the pads on the opposite brake. The pads should always be renewed in axle sets.

11 Top up the fluid reservoir.

4 Rear brake shoes -

inspection and renewal

1 Jack up the rear of the car and remove the roadwheels.

2 Fully release the handbrake. 3 Unscrew and remove the drum securing

bolts. One of these is a long locating spigot for the roadwheel. 4 Pull off the drum. lf it is tight, clean off the rust at its joint with the hub flange, and apply a little penetrating fluid. Two bolts may be screwed into the drum securing bolt holes if necessary and the drum thus eased off the hub. The securing bolt holes are tapped for this purpose. 5 Brush away all the dust and dirt from the shoes and operating mechanism, taking care not to inhale it. 6 The friction linings fitted as original equipment are of the bonded type and the rivet heads normally used as a guide to wear are not, of course, fitted. However, if the thickness of the friction linings is down to

1.5 mm (0.06 in) or less, the shoes must be renewed. Always purchase new or factory relined brake shoes. 7 Before removing the brake shoes, note the way in which the shoes are positioned, with respect to leading and trailing ends (the end of the shoe not covered by lining material).

Note also into which holes in the shoe web the return springs are connected. Sketch the shoes or mark the holes on the new shoes with quick drying paint if you are doubtful about remembering (photo). 8 Undo the steady springs by depressing and rotating their caps a quarter turn to disengage the slot from the pin. On later models a U-shaped steady spring is used. Depress and slide it out. 9 Rotate the hub until the cut-outs in its rear flange face are in alignment with the shoe self-adjusters. 10 Pivot the trailing shoe on the self-adjuster post and disengage the ends of the shoe from the slot in the wheel cylinder tappet and from the lower anchor block. 11 Work the shoe up the self-adjuster pivot post until the self-adjuster boss enters the cut-out in the hub flange. The shoe can now be withdrawn (photo). 12 Once off the self-adjuster post, the pull-off spring tension is eased, as the shoe can move towards the other, so the springs can be unhooked.

13 Remove the leading shoe in a similar way. 14 The new shoes will already be fitted with

new self-adjusters. 15 Fit the new shoes to their self-adjuster posts, making sure that the handbrake shoe lever is correctly located. Engage the ends of the shoes. 16 Using a wooden or plastic-faced mallet, tap the shoes inwards against the friction of their self-adjuster coil springs. This will have

the effect of reducing the overall diameter of the shoes to facilitate fitting of the shoe return springs and to allow the brake drum to slide over them. 17 Using pliers, reconnect the upper (longer) and lower shoe return springs. 18 Hold the steady pins in position from the rear of the backplate. Fit the small coil springs and the retaining cap, again using pliers to grip the cap and to depress and turn it to engage the pin. On later models fit the U-shaped springs. 19 Before refitting the drum, clean it out and examine it for grooves or scoring (refer to Section 8).

20 Fit the drum and the roadwheel. 21 Apply the brakes two or three times to

position the shoes close to the drum. 22 Renew the shoes on the opposite brake in a similar way. 23 The handbrake should be automatically adjusted by the action of the shoe adjuster. If the handbrake control lever has excessive travel, refer to Section 16 for separate adjusting instructions.

5 Caliper - removal,

overhaul and refitting

Note: Purchase a repair kit in advance of overhaul.

1 Jack up the front roadwheel and remove it. 2 Brush away all dirt from the caliper

Braking system 8•3

4.11 Rear hub showing cut-outs on rear face for shoe self-adjuster bosses

4.7 Rear brake assembly3.8B Cylinder body located on caliper

bracket

Fig. 8.2 Exploded view of caliper (Sec 5)

assembly and the flexible pipe, particularly the fixing bracket and union at the car end of the flexible pipe. 3 Have ready a container suitable to catch the brake fluid, and sheets of clean newspaper on which to put parts. 4 Take out the spring clips and locking blocks, and take the caliper off the support bracket. 5 Disconnect the hydraulic flexible pipe at the under wing support bracket and cap both pipe ends. It may help to prevent loss of fluid if the vent in the reservoir cap is sealed with adhesive tape, to create a vacuum. 6 Remove the caliper to the bench or other work surface, and clean it thoroughly with hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit. 7 Depress the piston until the dust excluding boot can be removed. 8 Now apply air pressure to the flexible hose and eject the piston. Quite a low pressure is required for this, such as can be generated with a hand or foot operated pump. 9 Pick out the piston seal from its groove in the cylinder. Use a sharp probe, but take care to avoid scratching the cylinder bore. 10 Examine the surface of the piston and cylinder bore. If either is corroded, scored or shows metal-to-metal rubbed areas, the complete assembly should be renewed. 11 If the components are in good condition, discard the oil seals, clean the piston and cylinder and fit the new seal for the piston. This is included in the repair kit. Use the fingers only to manipulate it into its groove. 12 Lubricate the piston with clean hydraulic fluid and insert it partially into the cylinder. 13 Fit the new dust excluding boot to its projecting end, push the piston fully into the cylinder and engage the dust excluder with the rim of the cylinder. 14 Refit the caliper, reconnect the flexible hose, then bleed the front hydraulic circuit (refer to Section 12).

6 Brake disc - inspection,

renovation or renewal

1 Whenever the front disc pads are being checked for wear, take the opportunity to inspect the discs for deep scoring or grooving. After a high mileage the disc may become reduced in thickness away from the extreme outer edge of the disc. lf this wear is rapid, it is possible that the friction pads are of too hard a type. 2 If the disc has evidence of many tiny cracks, these may be caused by overheating due to a seized caliper piston in the “applied” position. 3 The foregoing conditions may be corrected by regrinding the disc provided that the thickness of the disc is not reduced below that specified by such action. Alternatively, fit a new disc. 4 To remove a disc, take off the caliper and

pads as described in Sections 3 and 5. Tie the caliper up, out of the way. 5 Knock back the tabs of the lockplates and unbolt the caliper support bracket from the hub carrier. 6 Unscrew and remove the two bolts which hold the disc assembly to the hub. One of these bolts is for wheel locating purposes.

7 Pull the disc from the hub. 8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal

process. If the disc has excessive run-out, repositioning it in relation to the hub may bring it within tolerance by cancelling out the run-out characteristics in the hub and disc, once the most suitable fitted position has been found.

7 Rear wheel cylinder -

removal, overhaul and refitting

Note: Purchase a repair kit in advance of overhaul.

1 If fluid seepage is observed from the ends of the rear wheel cylinder when the brake drum has been removed, the seals are leaking and immediate action must be taken. 2 Although the cylinder can be dismantled without taking it from the backplate, this is not recommended due to the possibility of under wing dirt and mud dropping onto the components as work proceeds.

3 Remove the brake shoes, as described in Section 4. 4 Disconnect the hydraulic line from the wheel cylinder and cap the open end of the pipe. lt may help to reduce the loss of fluid if the vent hole in the reservoir cap is taped over to create a vacuum. 5 Unscrew and remove the setscrews which hold the cylinder to the backplate and withdraw the cylinder. Prise off the rubber dust excluding boots. 6 Apply gentle air pressure from a hand or foot operated pump to eject the pistons and spring. Alternatively, tap the end of the cylinder on a piece of hardwood and the pistons should move out. 7 Inspect the piston and cylinder bore surfaces for scoring, corrosion or evidence of metal-to-metal rubbing areas. lf these are found, discard the assembly and purchase a new one. 8 If the components are in good condition, note which way round the lips are fitted, then discard the seals and boots and wash the pistons and cylinder bore in clean hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit. 9 Manipulate the new seals into position, using the fingers only for this job. 10 Dip the pistons in clean hydraulic fluid and insert them with the coil spring and washers into the cylinder.

11 Fit the new dust excluding boots. 12 Refit the wheel cylinder to the backplate,

reconnect the hydraulic pipe, then refit the shoes, the drum and the roadwheel. 13 Bleed the rear hydraulic circuit as described in Section 12.

8 Brake drum - inspection,

renovation or renewal

1 Whenever the rear brake linings are being checked for wear, take the opportunity to inspect the internal surfaces of the brake drums. 2 If the drums are grooved or deeply scored, they may be reground, provided that their new internal diameter will not then exceed the specified dimension. If it will, or the drum is cracked, it must be renewed. 3 Removal and refitting of a brake drum is described in Section 4.

8•4 Braking system

Fig. 8.4 Exploded view of a rear wheel cylinder (Sec 7)

1 Pads 2 Dust excluder 3 Piston seal

4 Piston 5 Cylinder body

Fig. 8.3 Sectional view of caliper (Sec 5)

9 Master cylinder - removal,

overhaul and refitting

Note: Purchase a repair kit in advance of overhaul.

1 The master cylinder is mounted on the front face of the brake vacuum servo unit (55 and 70 models) or directly to the bulkhead (45 models). 2 Cover the front wings with polythene sheeting or similar material, in case hydraulic fluid spills onto the paintwork of the car during removal of the cylinder. 3 Detach the leads from the terminals on the reservoir cap, then unscrew and remove the cap and float. 4 Unscrew the pipe unions and prise the pipes carefully away from the master cylinder. Cap the open ends of the pipes and catch any fluid leaking from the master cylinder in a suitable container. 5 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw the master cylinder from the bulkhead or from the servo unit. 6 Clean away all external dirt and tip out the fluid from the reservoir and cylinder body. 7 The fluid reservoirs need not be removed from the master cylinder but if they are, renew the rubber sealing collars when refitting. 8 Grip the master cylinder in a vice, then unscrew and remove the end plug. Catch the coil spring. 9 Using a thin rod, apply pressure to the end of the primary piston then unscrew and remove the two stop bolts and sealing washers. 10 The internal piston assemblies with seals and springs can now be pushed out of the cylinder body. Keep all the components in

Braking system 8•5

Fig. 8.5 Sectional view of master cylinder (Sec 9)

1 Cylinder body 2 Spring and cup 3 Inlet from reservoir 4 Secondary piston 5 Seal 6 Fluid outlet to front brakes

7 Spring and cup 8 Inlet from reservoir 9 Primary piston 10 Seal 12 Stop bolts

13 Spacer 14 Springs 15 Seal 16 End plug and fluid outlet to

rear brakes

Fig. 8.6 Exploded view of master cylinder (Sec 9)

1 Cylinder body 2 Secondary piston 3 Primary piston 4 Stop bolt

Fig. 8.7 Sectional view of vacuum servo unit (Sec 9)

1 Master cylinder 2 Master cylinder

primary piston 3 Non-return valve 4 Front seal 5 Pushrod 6 Front chamber 7 Vacuum port 8 Plunger 9 Seal centraliser 10 Valve 11 Spring cup 12 Spring cup 13 Filter 14 Pushrod 15 Dust excluding

boot 16 Return spring 17 Valve spring

18 Valve cup 19 Rear seal 20 Seal 21 Cup 22 Rear chamber 23 Backing plate 24 Diaphragm 25 Vacuum piston 26 Front shell 27 Return spring 28 Cup 29 Guide bush 30 Seal 31 Rear shell

A = Projection of pushrod above vacuum cylinder face

their originally fitted sequence and note in which direction the seal lips are located. 11 Inspect the surfaces of the piston and cylinder bore. If scoring, corrosion or metal-to-metal rubbing areas are evident, renew the master cylinder complete. 12 If the components are in good condition, discard the oil seals and manipulate the new ones into position, using the fingers only. 13 Refit by reversing the removal operations; apply pressure to the piston ends so that the stop bolts can be fitted, then tighten the end plug. Make sure that the grooves in the pistons engage in the stop bolts. 14 Before refitting the master cylinder to the servo, measure the projection of the servo piston pushrod. When the master cylinder is fitted, there must be a clearance (see A in Fig. 8.7) between the end of the pushrod and the primary piston end face of between 0.825 and 1.025 mm (0.03 and 0.04 in). A depth gauge will be required for these measurements, the reference point being the mating surfaces of the master cylinder and the vacuum servo. 15 Alter the adjusting screw on the servo as necessary and lock it by applying locking fluid to the threads on completion.

16 Bolt the master cylinder to the vacuum servo or bulkhead, then reconnect the pipelines and reservoir cap leads. 17 Bleed the complete hydraulic system, as described in Section 12.

10 Pressure regulating valve

1 The pressure regulating valve is a load proportioning valve which restricts the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes according to car weight during heavy applications of the brake pedal. This prevents the rear wheels locking. 2 A faulty or non-operational valve should be renewed complete, no repair being possible. 3 To remove the valve, unscrew the pipe unions and disconnect the hydraulic pipes from the valve. Cap the ends of the pipes to prevent loss of fluid. 4 Unbolt the valve mounting bracket, withdraw it and disconnect the tension spring (photo). 5 Refit the new valve and then adjust it in the following way.

6 Have the car standing on a level floor. 7 The car should be normally loaded (kerb

weight) with fuel, oil, spare wheel etc. Load the luggage compartment immediately behind the seat back with:

65 kg (143 lbs) on three-door models or

55 kg (121 lbs) on five-door models

8 Refer to Fig. 8.10 and slacken the valve bracket securing bolt (1). 9 Attach a 6.0 kg (13.2 lb) weight to the bracket eye (2) as shown and then tighten the bracket securing bolt. 10 Bleed the braking system if a new valve has been fitted. Bleeding will not of course be required if only adjustment has been carried out to an existing valve.

11 Hydraulic hoses and pipes -

inspection and renewal

Flexible hoses

1 Periodically, all brake pipes, pipe connections and unions should be completely and carefully examined. 2 First examine for signs of leakage where the pipe unions occur. Then examine the flexible hoses for signs of chafing and fraying and, of course, leakage. This is only a preliminary part of the flexible hose inspection, as exterior condition does not necessarily indicate the interior condition, which will be considered later. 3 Flexible hoses are always mounted at both ends in a rigid bracket attached to the body or a sub-assembly. To remove them, it is necessary first of all to unscrew the pipe unions of the rigid pipes which go into them.

8•6 Braking system

Fig. 8.11 Typical hydraulic hose connection

(Sec 11)

Fig. 8.10 Weight attachment point for

pressure regulating valve adjustment (Sec 10)

1 Fixing bolt 2 Bracket eye

Fig. 8.9 Components of the pressure

regulating valve (Sec 10)

Fig. 8.8 Pressure regulating valve (Sec 10)10.4 Pressure regulating valve bracket and

tension spring

The hose ends can then be unclipped from the brackets. The mounting brackets, particularly on the body frame, are not very heavy gauge and care must be taken not to wrench them off (photo). 4 With the flexible hose removed, examine the internal bore. If it is blown through first, it should be possible to see through it. Any specks of rubber which come out, or signs of restriction in the bore, mean that the inner lining is breaking up and the pipe must be renewed. 5 When refitting the flexible hoses check they cannot be under tension, or rub, when the wheels are at the full range of suspension or steering movement. 6 Bleed the system (see Section 12) on completion.

Rigid pipes

7 Inspect the condition of the braking system rigid pipelines at frequent intervals. They must be cleaned off and examined for any signs of dents (or other percussive damage) and rust and corrosion. Rust and corrosion should be scraped off and, if the depth of pitting in the pipes is significant, they will need renewal. This is particularly likely in those areas underneath the car body and along the rear axle where the pipes are exposed to the full force of road and weather conditions. 8 Rigid pipe removal is usually straightforward. The unions at each end are undone, the pipe and union pulled out, and the centre sections of the pipe removed from the body clips where necessary. Underneath the car, exposed unions can sometimes be very tight. As one can use only an open-ended spanner and the unions are not large, burring of the flats is not uncommon when attempting to undo them. For this reason, a self-locking grip wrench (Mole) is often the only way to remove a stubborn union. 9 Rigid pipes which need renewal can usually be purchased at any garage where they have the pipe, unions and special tools to make them up. All they need to know is the total length of the pipe, the type of flare used at each end with the union, and the length and thread of the union. Fiat is metric, remember. 10 Fitting your new pipes is a straightforward

reversal of the removal procedure. If the rigid pipes have been made up, it is best to get all the sets bends in them before trying to fit them. Also, if there are any acute bends ask your supplier to put these in for you on a tube bender. Otherwise, you may kink the pipe and thereby restrict the bore area and fluid flow. 11 Bleed the system (see Section 12) on completion.

12 Hydraulic system -

bleeding

1 If the master cylinder or the pressure regulating valve has been disconnected and reconnected then the complete system (both circuits) must be bled. 2 If a component of one circuit has been disturbed then only that particular circuit need be bled. 3 The two disc brakes comprise the front circuit and the two rear brakes the rear circuit. 4 Unless the pressure bleeding method is being used, do not forget to keep the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir topped up to prevent air from being drawn into the system which would make any work done worthless. 5 Before commencing operations, check that all system hoses and pipes are in good condition with all unions tight and free from leaks. 6 Take great care not to allow hydraulic fluid to come into contact with the vehicle paintwork as it is an effective paint stripper. Wash off any spilled fluid immediately with cold water. 7 As the system on 55 and 70 models incorporates a vacuum servo, destroy the vacuum by giving several applications of the brake pedal in quick succession. The car should be loaded with enough weight to actuate the pressure regulating valve before bleeding commences.

Bleeding - two man method

8 Gather together a clean glass jar and a length of rubber or plastic tubing which will be a tight fit on the brake bleed screws (photo).

9 Engage the help of an assistant. 10 Push one end of the bleed tube onto the

flrst bleed screw and immerse the other end of the glass jar which should contain enough hydraulic fluid to cover the end of the tube. 11 Open the bleed screw one half a turn and have your assistant depress the brake pedal fully then slowly release it. Tighten the bleed screw at the end of each pedal downstroke to obviate any chance of air or fluid being drawn back into the system. 12 Repeat this operation until clean hydraulic fluid, free from air bubbles, can be seen coming through into the jar. 13 Tighten the bleed screw at the end of a pedal downstroke and remove the bleed tube. Bleed the remaining screws in a similar way.

Bleeding - using a one way valve kit

14 There are a number of one-man, one-way brake bleeding kits available from motor accessory shops. It is recommended that one of these kits is used wherever possible as it will greatly simplify the bleeding operation and also reduce the risk of air or fluid being drawn back into the system quite apart from being able to do the work without the help of an assistant. 15 To use the kit, connect the tube to the bleedscrew and open the screw one half a turn. 16 Depress the brake pedal fully and slowly release it. The one-way valve in the kit will prevent expelled air from returning at the end of each pedal downstroke. Repeat this operation several times to be sure of ejecting all air from the system. Some kits include a translucent container which can be positioned so that the air bubbles can actually be seen being ejected from the system. 17 Tighten the bleed screw, remove the tube and repeat the operations on the remaining brakes. 18 On completion, depress the brake pedal. If it still feels spongy repeat the bleeding operations as air must still be trapped in the system.

Bleeding - using a pressure bleeding kit

19 These kits too are available from motor accessory shops and are usually operated by air pressure from the spare tyre.

Braking system 8•7

12.8 Caliper bleed screw with dust cap fitted

Fig. 8.12 Bleeding a rear wheel cylinder

(Sec 12)

11.3 Front hydraulic hose bracket

20 By connecting a pressurised container to the master cylinder fluid reservoir, bleeding is then carried out by simply opening each bleed screw in turn and allowing the fluid to run out, rather like turning on a tap, until no air is visible in the expelled fluid. 21 By using this method, the large reserve of hydraulic fluid provides a safeguard against air being drawn into the master cylinder during bleeding which often occurs if the fluid level in the reservoir is not maintained. 22 Pressure bleeding is particularly effective when bleeding “difficult” systems or when bleeding the complete system at time of routine fluid renewal.

All methods

23 When bleeding is completed, check and top up the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. 24 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it feels at all spongy, air must still be present in the system and further bleeding is indicated. Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable period of the bleeding operation, may be due to worn master cylinder seals. 25 Discard brake fluid which has been expelled. lt is almost certain to be contaminated with moisture, air and dirt making it unsuitable for further use. Clean fluid should always be stored in an airtight container as it absorbs moisture readily (hygroscopic) which lowers its boiling point and could affect braking performance under severe conditions.

13 Vacuum servo unit -

description

A vacuum servo unit is fitted into the brake hydraulic circuit on 55 and 70 models in series with the master cylinder, to provide assistance to the driver when the brake pedal is depressed. This reduces the effort required by the driver to operate the brakes under all braking conditions.

The unit operates by vacuum obtained from the induction manifold and comprises basically a booster diaphragm and non-return valve. The servo unit and hydraulic master cylinder are connected together so that the servo unit piston rod acts as the master cylinder pushrod. The driver’s braking effort is transmitted through another pushrod to the servo unit piston and its built-in control system. The servo unit piston does not fit tightly into the cylinder, but has a strong diaphragm to keep its edges in constant contact with the cylinder wall, so assuring an air tight seal between the two parts. The forward chamber is held under vacuum conditions created in the inlet manifold of the engine and, during periods when the brake pedal is not in use, the controls open a passage to the rear chamber so placing it under vacuum conditions as well. When the brake pedal is depressed, the vacuum passage

to the rear chamber is cut off and the chamber opened to atmospheric pressure. The consequent rush of air pushes the servo piston forward in the vacuum chamber and operates the main pushrod to the master cylinder.

The controls are designed so that assistance is given under all conditions and, when the brakes are not required, vacuum in the rear chamber is established when the brake pedal is released. All air from the atmosphere entering the rear chamber is passed through a small air filter.

Under normal operating conditions, the vacuum servo unit is very reliable and does not require overhaul except at very high mileages. In this case, it is far better to obtain a service exchange unit, rather than repair the original unit.

It is emphasised that the servo unit assists in reducing the braking effort required at the foot pedal and in the event of its failure, the hydraulic braking system is in no way affected except that the need for higher pressures will be noticed.

14 Vacuum servo unit -

servicing and testing

1 Regularly, check that the vacuum hose which runs between the servo unit and the inlet manifold is in good condition and is a tight fit at both ends. 2 If broken or badly clogged, renew the air filter which is located around the brake pedal push rod. Access to this is obtained by disconnecting the pushrod from the cross-shaft or pedal arm, withdrawing the pushrod, dust excluding boot and end cap. 3 If the new filter is cut diagonally from its centre hole, future renewal can be carried out without the need for disconnection of the pushrod. 4 If the efficiency of the servo unit is suspect, it can be checked out in the following way. 5 Run the engine, then switch off the ignition. Depress the footbrake pedal; the distinctive in-rush of air into the servo should be clearly heard. It should be possible to repeat this operation several times before the vacuum in the system is exhausted. 6 Start the engine and have an assistant apply the footbrake pedal and hold it down. Disconnect the vacuuum hose from the servo. There should not be any in-rush of air into the servo through the connecting stub. lf there is, the servo diaphragm is probably faulty. During this test, expect the engine to idle roughly, unless the open end of the hose to the inlet manifold is plugged. Reconnect the hose. 7 With the engine off, depress the brake pedal fully. Start the engine with the brake pedal still depressed; the pedal should be felt to go down fractionally. 8 If the results of these tests are not satisfactory, remove the unit and fit a new one as described in the next Section.

15 Vacuum servo unit -

removal and refitting

1 Syphon as much fluid as possible out of the master cylinder reservolr. 2 Disconnect electrical leads from the terminals in the reservoir cap then uncouple the rigid pipelines from the master cylinder body. Be prepared to catch leaking fluid and plug the open ends of the pipelines. 3 The master cylinder can be unbolted now from the servo unit, or detached later when the complete assembly is withdrawn. 4 Working inside the car, disconnect the servo pushrod from the pedal then remove the servo mounting nuts. 5 Withdraw the servo assembly into the engine compartment, then remove it to the bench. lf the master cylinder is still attached, cover the wings with protective sheeting, in case brake fluid is spilled during removal. 6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal process, but adjust the pushrod clearance as described in Section 9. On completion of refitting, bleed the complete hydraulic system as described in Section 12. Note: Where the

help of an assistant is available, the servo pushrod need not be disconnected from the pedal. The rod is a sliding fit in the servo and the servo can be simply pulled off the rod. Refitting without having disconnected the rod from the pedal can be difficult unless the help of an assistant is available.

16 Handbrake - adjustment

Adjustment is normally automatic, by the movement of the rear brake shoes on their automatic adjusters.

However, owing to cable stretch, supplementary adjustment is occasionally required at the control lever adjuster nut. The need for this adjustment is usually indicated by excessive movement of the control lever when fully applied. 1 The rear brakes should be fully applied when the handbrake control lever has been pulled over four or five notches. 2 If adjustment is required, release the

8•8 Braking system

16.2 Handbrake adjuster nuts

locknut and turn the adjuster nut on the handbrake primary rod (photo). 3 Raise the rear roadwheels and check that they turn freely when the handbrake lever is fully released.

17 Handbrake cable -

renewal

1 There are two cables, either of which may be renewed independently 2 Disconnect the cable, which is to be renewed, from the shoe lever at the brake backplate. 3 Disconnect the longer cable from the primary link or rod and release the cable from its retainers. On later models with a plastic fuel tank, a cable bracket is moulded into the side of the tank (photo).

4 Disconnect the shorter cable from the pivot lever at the pulley on the rear axle (photo). 5 Refit the new cables by reversing the removal operations and then adjust as described in the preceding Section.

18 Brake pedal -

removal and refitting

1 The operations are described in conjunction with the clutch pedal in Chapter 5, Section 4. 2 The brake pedal pushrod will slide out of the servo unit as the pedal is withdrawn.

19 Stop lamp switch

1 The brake stop lamp switch is of plunger type acting on the pedal arm. 2 Adjust the position of the switch by turning the locknuts until the stop lamps illuminate when the pedal arm is depressed through 1.0 mm (0.039 in).

Braking system 8•9

Fig. 8.13 Handbrake components (Sec 17)

17.4 Handbrake cable pulley

17.3 Handbrake cable guide on fuel tank

Fault finding - braking system

Excessive pedal travel

mm Pads or shoes excessively worn mm Incorrect pedal or servo pushrod adjustment mm Automatic adjusters faulty mm Seized wheel cylinder or caliper piston mm Master cylinder seals worn

Pedal feels spongy or soggy

mm Air in hydraulic system mm Low fluid level mm Loose connections mm Flexible hose perished mm Defective wheel cylinder or caliper seal

Pedal feels springy

mm New pads or linings not bedded-in mm Master cylinder mounting loose

Pedal vibrates when brakes applied

mm Discs or drums distorted mm Friction linings excessively worn mm Loose backplate or caliper mounting bolts mm Wear in steering or suspension components

Excessive effort required to stop car

mm Worn or contaminated linings or pads mm Incorrect grade of lining or pad material mm Servo vacuum hose leaking or disconnected mm Faulty servo or non-return valve (55 or 70 models) mm Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston mm One circuit defective on dual circuit hydraulic system

Brakes pull to one side

mm Friction linings contaminated on one side of car mm Seized hydraulic piston on one side of car mm Different types of linings fitted on different sides of car, or new

linings on one side only

mm Seized automatic adjuster on one side of car

Brakes drag

mm Handbrake linkage overadjusted or seized mm Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston

Brakes squeal

mm Drums or discs rusty or damp (temporary fault - no action

necessary)

mm Dust or grit in brake drums mm Linings excessively worn

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 negative earth, battery alternator and pre-engaged starter

Battery

Except 70S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Ah

70S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Ah

Alternator

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marelli, Valeo or Bosch 45A, 55A or 65A, with integral voltage

regulator

Nominal voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 V

Minimum brush (wear) length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 mm (0.236 in)

Starter motor

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marelli, Bosch or Femsa pre-engaged

Nominal power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 kW or 1.0 kW

Armature shaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 to 0.5 mm (0.0039 to 0.0197 in)

Minimum brush (wear) length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm (0.39 in)

Wiper blades

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-4801 (19 in) or X-4503 (18 in)

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-3303

Chapter 9 Electrical system

For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Alternator - maintenance and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Alternator - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Battery - inspection, charging, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Central door locking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Check control (warning module) system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Cigar lighter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Clocks - setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Courtesy lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Economy gauge (Econometer) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Electrically-operated front door windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Exterior lamps - bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Fault finding - electrical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter

Fuses and relays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Headlamp - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Headlamp beam - alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Headlamp bulb - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Heated tailgate window - precautions and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Horns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Instrument panel - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Interior lamps - bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Radio/cassette - fitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Rocker and push-button switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Speedometer drive cable - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Starter motor - description and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Starter motor - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Steering column combination switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Tailgate contacts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Tailgate wiper blade and arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Voltage regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Washer system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Windscreen wiper blade and arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 24

Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

9•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

1 General description

The electrical system is of 12 volt negative earth type and employs a belt-driven alternator and a pre-engaged type starter motor.

The models in the range are all adequately equipped with electrical accessories, while SX versions also have power windows and centralised door locking plus a check control system (Section 34).

2 Battery - inspection, charging,

removal and refitting

1 The battery is of maintenance-free type and under normal circumstances, no topping up will be required, but regularly check that the electrolyte level is between the minimum and maximum lines on the translucent battery casing. 2 If the electrolyte level does drop below the

minimum line, suspect a leak in the battery casing or that the alternator is overcharging. If the latter is the case, rectify the alternator fault and then prise out the two rectangular plugs from the top of the battery and top up with distilled or purified water. 3 Always keep the battery terminals clean and smear them with petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion.

4 The battery will normally be kept fully charged by the alternator, but it is possible for the battery to become discharged if the daily mileage is very low with much use being made of the starter and electrical accessories. 5 When the battery begins to deteriorate with age it may also require a boost from a mains charger. 6 Disconnect both battery leads before connecting the mains charger.

7 To remove the battery from the car, first disconnect the leads from the battery terminals (earth first) and then unscrew the securing clamp from the casing projection at the base of the casing (photo). 8 Lift the battery from its mounting platform. Refitting is a reversal of removal. Reconnect the earth cable last.

Fuses

Circuit protected Fuse rating (A)

1 Stop lamps, direction indicator lamps, instrument panel warning

lamps, tachometer economy gauge, check control system . . . . . . 10

2 Windscreen wiper and washer, rear screen wiper/washer, check

system panel illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

3 Left front parking, right rear tail lamp, cigar lighter illumination,

heater control and clock, digital clock illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5

4 Right front parking lamp and left rear tail lamp, instrument panel

illumination and rear number plate lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5

5 Left-hand dipped headlamp, rear foglamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

6 Right-hand dipped headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

7 Left-hand headlamp (main beam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

8 Right-hand headlamp (main beam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

9 Engine cooling fan and horn (Comfort) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

10 Heater booster fan, digital clock map reading lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

11 Heated tailgate glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

12 Courtesy lamps, cigar lighter, radio power feed, disc pad

sensors, economy gauge (ES models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

13 Hazard warning lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

14 Spare (Comfort), Horn (Super) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Bulbs Wattage

Headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40/45 or Halogen H4 60/55

Front parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Side repeater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Stop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Reversing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Rear foglamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Direction indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Rear number plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Courtesy lamp (roof) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Courtesy lamp (pillar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Warning and indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wedge base

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Alternator mounting and adjustment nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 87

Starter motor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35

9•2 Electrical system

2.7 Battery clamp

If battery terminal corrosion has occurred, it may be neutralised by applying sodium bicarbonate or

household ammonia.

3 Alternator -

maintenance and precautions

To avoid damage to the alternator, the

following precautions should be observed.

1 Disconnect the leads from the battery before connecting a mains charger to the battery terminals. 2 Never stop the engine by pulling off one of the battery leads. 3 Disconnect the battery if electric welding is to be carried out on the vehicle. 4 If using booster cables from another battery to start the car, make sure that they are connected positive to positive and negative to negative. 5 Maintenance consists of keeping the outside of the alternator clean, the electrical connections secure and the drivebelt correctly tensioned, see Chapter 2, Section 8.

4 Alternator -

removal and refitting

Note: Depending on the model, access to the alternator from above may be poor in which case it will be necessary to work from the underside of the vehicle, through the right-hand wheel arch (after removing the roadwheel and the lower undershield). Refer to Chapter 13 for details.

1 Disconnect the leads from the rear of the alternator.

2 Release the mounting and adjuster link nuts and push the alternator as far as it will go in towards the engine (photos).

3 Slip the drivebelt from the pulley. 4 Remove the mounting and adjuster bolts

and lift the alternator from the brackets on the engine. Remove downwards on 1116 cc and 1301 cc models. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, tension the drivebelt as described in Chapter 2, Section 8.

5 Alternator - overhaul

1 Overhaul of the alternator should be limited to renewal of the brushes. If the unit has covered a high mileage, it will be found more

economical to exchange it for a new or factory-reconditioned one, rather than renew worn components on the original unit.

Brush renewal (Marelli alternator)

2 Unscrew the nuts and take off the rear cover. 3 Unscrew the two small bolts and withdraw

the brush holder (photos). 4 Fit the new brush holder which is supplied complete with brushes, by reversing the removal operations.

Brush renewal (Bosch alternator)

5 Where applicable, remove the radio suppression condenser (capacitor) from the rear end frame (one screw and washer, and a plug-in connection). 6 Undo the two screws which retain the brush holder to the rear frame of the alternator, then

Electrical system 9•3

5.3A Alternator brush holder bolt4.2B Alternator adjuster bolt4.2A Alternator mounting

Fig. 9.1 Exploded view of typical alternator (Sec 5)

1 Pulley 2 Fan 3 Bolts 4 Washers 5 Drive-end bracket 6 Stator windings 7 Plate screw 8 Diode plate

(rectifier pack)

9 Body 10 Brush 11 Spring 12 Brush holder 13 Condenser 14 Screws and

washers

15 Screws and

washers

16 Screws and

washers 17 Plug socket 18 Suppressor 19 Shaft nut 20 Spring washer 21 Thrust ring 22 Bearing 23 Retainer plate

24 Thrust ring 25 Spring washer 26 Screw and washer 27 Key 28 Rotor 29 Bearing 30 Backing washer 31 Shield (where

applicable)

5.3B Removing alternator brush holder

ease the holder out of the alternator. Inspect the brushes and if worn below the specified minimum length, they must be renewed. 7 Disconnect the brush leads by unsoldering or carefully cutting them. 8 When soldering the new brush leads, do not allow solder to run down them or their flexibility will be ruined.

9 When inspecting or renewing brushes, check the surface of the slip rings. Clean them with solvent or if they are very discoloured, use very fine glasspaper.

6 Voltage regulator

1 This is of integral type and is part of the

brushholder assembly. 2 No provision is made for adjustment or overhaul.

7 Starter motor -

description and testing

1 The starter motor may be one of two different makes. Both are of pre-engaged type. 2 This type of starter motor incorporates a solenoid mounted on top of the starter motor body. When the ignition switch is operated, the solenoid moves the starter drive pinion, through the medium of the shift lever, into engagement with the flywheel starter ring gear. As the solenoid reaches the end of its stroke, and with the pinion by now partially engaged with the flywheel ring gear, the main fixed and moving contacts close and engage the starter motor to rotate the engine. 3 This pre-engagement of the starter drive does much to reduce the wear on the flywheel ring gear associated with inertia type starter motors. 4 If the starter fails, some fault-finding can be done with it still on the car. Check the ignition warning light comes on, and does not go out when the starter is switched on. If it goes out, the fault is probably in the battery. If it stays bright, get an assistant to work the switch,

whilst listening to the starter. Listen to find out if the solenoid clicks into position. If it does not, pull off the solenoid wire, and check it with a test bulb. If the wire is live when the key is turned, but the solenoid does not move, take off the starter and remove it to the bench for overhaul.

8 Starter motor -

removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Disconnect the lead from the starter motor

(photo). 3 Unscrew the fixing bolts and withdraw the starter motor, downwards on 1116 cc and 1301 cc models (photo). 4 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure.

9 Starter motor - overhaul

1 As with the alternator, the operations should normally be limited to renewal of the brushes. If the unit has covered a high mileage it will usually be more economical to purchase a new or factory-reconditioned one rather than renew several components of the original unit. 2 Owing to the possibility that a fault can develop in the starter motor solenoid or drive assembly, full dismantling procedures are given later in this Section.

Brush - renewal

3 Slide off the cover band. 4 Using a hooked piece of wire, pull up the

springs so that the brushes can be withdrawn and their lengths checked for wear. If they have worn below the specified minimum length, renew them by extracting the brush lead connecting screws (photo).

Solenoid

5 Disconnect the field connecting wire from the solenoid. 6 Unscrew the bolts which hold the solenoid to the end-frame. 7 Unscrew the yoke tie-rod nuts.

9•4 Electrical system

9.4 Starter motor brush partly withdrawn

8.2 Starter motor connections 8.3 Removing starter motor

Fig. 9.2 Exploded view of typical starter motor (Sec 9)

1 Armature 2 Drive pinion/clutch

3 Drive end bracket 4 Shift lever

5 Solenoid 6 Brush endplate

7 Brush 8 Field windings

Gripping the brush leads with a pair of pliers to act as a heat sink will prevent heat transfer to the internal

components of the alternator.

8 Withdraw the solenoid and yoke off the armature and from the drive end bracket. Note the steel and fibre washers and the shims on the armature shaft (photo). 9 Extract the split pin and tap out the engagement lever pivot pin. 10 Pull the rubber packing piece from the drive end bracket. 11 Withdraw the armature with solenoid plunger, coil spring and engagement lever. 12 Clean the commutator with a fuel soaked rag or very fine glass paper. Do not undercut

the mica insulators on the commutator.

Drive

13 To remove the drive assembly from the armature shaft, use a piece of tubing to tap the stop collar down the shaft to expose the snap ring. Remove the snap ring and stop collar and slide the drive assembly from the shaft. 14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a new snap ring to secure the drive to the armature shaft.

10 Fuses and relays

1 The fuse box is located under the left-hand side of the facia panel and is held in place by two hand screws (photo).

2 The fuses and the circuits protected are identified by symbols. Refer also to Specifications. 3 If a fuse blows, always renew it with one of identical rating. If the new fuse blows immediately, find the cause before renewing the fuse for the second time. This is usually due to defective wiring insulation causing a short circuit. 4 Never substitute a piece of wire or other makeshift device for a proper fuse. 5 Various relays are plugged into the fuse block and include those for the heated rear screen, heater and horns. 6 On cars fitted with power-operated front windows and centralised door locking, the fuses and relays for these circuits are mounted separately under the right-hand side of the facia panel. 7 The relay (flasher unit) for the direction indicators and hazard warning lamps is located on the lower part of the steering column combination switch and is accessible after removing the column shroud.

11 Steering column

combination switch

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the steering column shrouds.

3 The switch can be removed without

having to take off the steering wheel, but for clarity, the photographs show the wheel removed. 4 Unscrew the switch clamp nuts, disconnect the wiring plug and remove the switch from the steering column (photo). 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make sure that the activating projections on the steering wheel hub engage correctly with the switches.

12 Courtesy lamp switch

1 These are located in and secured to the body pillars with a single screw (photo).

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 3 Extract the switch screw and withdraw the

switch. 4 If the leads are to be disconnected, tape them to the pillar to prevent them from slipping inside. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Apply petroleum jelly to the switch contacts to prevent corrosion.

13 Rocker and push-button

switches

1 These are mounted in panels on each side of the instrument panel.

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 3 Prise off the instrument panel hood cover.

This is held in place by clips. The careful use of a screwdriver will assist in releasing them (see Section 21). 4 Extract the switch panel fixing screws. These compress spring clips which in turn secure the switch panel (photo). 5 Withdraw the switch panel until the wiring plugs can be disconnected. Record the location of the plugs before disconnecting

Electrical system 9•5

11.4 Unscrewing steering column switch clamp nut

1 Direction indicator flasher unit (relay)

10.1 Fuse block (later models)

1 Horn relay 2 Heated tailgate window relay

9.8 Starter motor dismantled

13.4 Switch panel screw12.1 Courtesy lamp switch

them. Carefully release the fibre optic filaments (photos). 6 A push-button switch can be removed by compressing its retaining tabs and pushing it from the panel. 7 A rocker switch can be removed if its knob is pulled off and the switch sections withdrawn from the panel. 8 Reassembly and refitting of both types of switches are reversals of removal and dismantling.

14 Tailgate contacts

1 Contact blocks are used to transmit power to the heated tailgate window and to the wiper motor. 2 The block on the tailgate or the body may be released by prising their ends with a screwdriver (photos).

15 Horns

1 These are mounted close to the engine/transmission left-hand mounting below the radiator. 2 Apart from keeping the connecting leads secure, no maintenance or adjustment is required.

16 Headlamp bulb - renewal

1 Open the bonnet and pull off the plug and the rubber cover from the rear of the headlamp (photo). 2 Prise back the spring bulbholder clips and withdraw the combined bulb and holder (photos). 3 Refit the new bulb. Avoid fingering it if it is of halogen type. Should the fingers touch the bulb, wipe it with a rag soaked in methylated spirit to remove any residual grease. 4 Turn the bulbholder until the pip on its flange engages in the cut-out in the rim of the reflector. 5 Snap back the spring retaining clips, refit the rubber cover and reconnect the plug.

17 Headlamp beam - alignment

1 It is recommended that the headlamp beams are aligned by your dealer or a service station having optical setting equipment. 2 Where an owner wishes to do the job himself, proceed in the following way. 3 Have the car standing on a level floor with

9•6 Electrical system

Fig. 9.3 Headlamp beam adjustment

screws (Sec 17)

A Vertical B Horizontal

16.2B Headlamp halogen type bulb16.2A Headlamp bulbholder spring

clips

14.2B Body contact block

16.1 Headlamp plug and rubber cover

14.2A Tailgate contact block13.5B Switch panel fibre optic13.5A Withdrawing switch panel

the tyres correctly inflated and square to a wall, at a distance of 10.0 m (32.8 ft) from it. 4 Mark the wall to correspond with the centres of the headlamps. 5 Switch to dipped beams when the brightest parts of the light pattern should be below the marks on the wall by an amount equal to one tenth of the distance between the floor and the mark on the wall. 6 Adjust the beams as necessary by turning the adjuster screws (A) vertical or (B) horizontal, which are located at the rear of the headlamp.

18 Headlamp -

removal and refitting

1 Open the bonnet and extract the two headlamp mounting screws from the top rail (photo). 2 Pull the headlamp unit forward off its ballstud and then disconnect the wiring plug (photo).

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

19 Exterior lamps -

bulb renewal

Front parking lamp

1 The bulbholder is located in the headlamp reflector.

2 Open the bonnet, push and twist the bulbholder from its location (photo). 3 The wedge base type bulb is simply pulled from its holder.

Front direction indicator lamp

4 Extract the screws and remove the lens (photo). 5 Depress and twist the bayonet fitting type bulb from its holder.

Side repeater lamp

6 This bulb may be renewed in one of two ways. Either partially remove the underwing protective shield and reach up under the front wing and pull the holder out of the lamp body or depress the lamp retaining tab and withdraw the lamp from outside the wing. The tab is very brittle (photo).

7 Remove the bulb from the holder.

Rear lamp cluster

8 Open the tailgate. 9 Gently prise up the clips on the top surface of

the lens. Pull the upper part of the lens outwards and release it from the lower fixings (photo). 10 The individual lamp bulbs may be renewed, all of them being of bayonet fitting type (photo).

Rear number plate lamp

11 Insert a screwdriver blade in the lens slot and prise it from the bulb holder. Withdraw the bulb. 12 If preferred, the complete lamp may be removed from the bumper by reaching up under the bumper and squeezing the lamp retaining tabs (photo).

Electrical system 9•7

19.2 Front parking lamp bulb18.2 Withdrawing headlamp18.1 Headlamp upper fixing screw

19.12 Rear number plate lamp withdrawn

19.10 Rear lamp bulbs

19.6 Side repeater lamp19.4 Front direction indicator lamp lens

and bulb

19.9 Rear lamp lens upper clip

A Direction indicator B Reversing

C Stop E Fog D Tail

20 Interior lamps -

bulb renewal

Courtesy lamp

1 The lamp lenses, whether roof or pillar mounted, are removed by prising off using a screwdriver inserted under one end (photo). 2 The festoon type bulb is pulled from its spring contacts.

Instrument panel lamps

3 Remove the instrument panel hood cover as described in the next Section. The panel lighting bulbs may be renewed without further dismantling, but access to the warning and indicator bulbs can only be obtained if the instrument panel is partially withdrawn as described in the next Section (photo).

4 Pull out the appropriate bulbholder and withdraw the wedge base type bulb. 5 Fit the new bulb, the holder, instrument panel and hood cover.

21 Instrument panel -

removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the instrument panel hood cover.

The easiest way to do this is to insert the fingers at the sides, and pull the hood sharply upwards off its retaining clips. 3 Extract the two fixing screws from the instrument panel and pull it towards you until the speedometer drive cable can be disconnected by squeezing its plastic retaining ring (photo). 4 Disconnect the wiring plugs and record their exact locations.

5 Remove the instrument panel upwards (photo).

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

22 Instrument panel -

dismantling

1 With the instrument panel removed from the car, individual instruments may be removed in the following way.

2 Pull off the speedometer trip device knob. 3 Remove the instrument hood cover by

gently releasing the plastic clips (Fig. 9.4). 4 The speedometer is secured by two screws for its metal casing and one screw for its plastic casing. Other instruments are held to the panel by nuts (photo). 5 On models equipped with a check control system (see Section 34), the speedometer cannot be removed until the control unit has first been withdrawn. 6 On ES versions, the speedometer cannot be removed until the economy gauge control unit has been removed.

23 Speedometer drive cable -

renewal

1 Remove the instrument panel hood cover as described in Section 21. 2 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer by squeezing the plastic retaining ring (photo).

9•8 Electrical system

23.2 Speedometer cable connector at head

22.4 Rear view of instrument panel21.5 Instrument panel and steering wheel

removed

21.3 Removing instrument panel screw21.2 Removing instrument panel hood

cover

Fig. 9.4 Instrument hood cover (1) (Sec 21)20.3 Instrument panel warning lamp20.1 Interior roof lamp withdrawn

3 Working at the transmission, disconnect

the speedometer cable by unscrewing the knurled retaining ring (photo). 4 Withdraw the cable through the bulkhead grommet. 5 Refit the new cable assembly by reversing the removal operations.

24 Windscreen wiper blade and

arm - removal and refitting

1 The wiper blade can be removed once the arm has been pulled away from the glass and locked in position. 2 Depress the small tab (A) and push the U-shaped carrier out of the hook (B) of the

wiper arm. The blade can then be withdrawn, passing the wiper arm hook through the slot (C) in the blade stretcher (Fig. 9.5). 3 Before removing the wiper arm, it is worthwhile sticking a strip of masking tape on the screen to indicate the setting of the arm and blade as a guide to refitting. 4 Flip up the plastic cover and unscrew the arm retaining nut. Pull off the arm from the splined drive spindle (photo).

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

25 Windscreen wiper motor -

removal and refitting

1 Open the bonnet and disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the wiper arm and blade as previously described. 3 Prise off the sealing cover from around the drive spindle and then unscrew the drive spindle bezel nut. 4 Pull back the weathersealing strip from above the wiper motor location and remove the two screws which are exposed (photo). 5 Withdraw the motor/gearbox with protective cover from under the lip of the upper bulkhead. Disconnect the wiring plug (photos).

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

26 Tailgate wiper blade and arm

- removal and refitting

1 Pull the wiper arm from the glass until it locks. 2 With the thumb nail pull down the tab to release the peg (B) from the hole (A) (Fig. 9.7). Pull the blade from the arm. 3 To remove the arm, flip up the plastic cover and remove the nut exposed. Pull the arm from the drive spindle. 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Electrical system 9•9

Fig. 9.5 Windscreen wiper blade fixing

(Sec 24)

A Tab B Wiper arm C Blade slot

24.4 Windscreen wiper arm nut23.3 Speedometer cable connector at

transmission

Fig. 9.7 Tailgate wiper blade fixing (Sec 26)

A Hole B Peg

25.5B Removing windscreen wiper motor25.5A Windscreen wiper motor cover

25.4 Removing windscreen wiper motor mounting screws

Fig. 9.6 Windscreen wiper motor

components (Sec 25)

1 Gears 4 Intermittent 2 Crank arm control unit 3 Shaft gear 5 Motor yoke

27 Tailgate wiper motor -

removal and refitting

1 Remove the blade and arm as previously described. Unscrew the drive spindle bezel nut.

2 Open the tailgate fully. 3 Unclip and remove the wiper motor cover. 4 Unscrew the mounting screws, withdraw

the motor and disconnect the wiring plug (photo).

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

28 Washer system

1 The washer system for the windscreen and the tailgate operates from a bag type fluid reservoir within the engine compartment (photo). 2 The reservoir bag is fitted with two pumps, one for each system (photo). 3 Use screen cleaning fluid mixed in the recommended proportion in the washer fluid reservoir and in very cold weather add a small quantity of methylated spirit. 4 To clear a blocked washer jet nozzle or to adjust the wash jet glass-striking pattern, insert a pin part way into the jet nozzle.

29 Heated tailgate window -

precautions and repair

1 The heater element inside the tailgate glass should be treated with care. 2 Clean only with a damp cloth and wipe in the direction in which the filaments run. Avoid scratching with rings on the fingers, or by allowing luggage to rub on the glass. Never stick adhesive labels over the heater element. 3 Should one of the heater filaments be broken it can be repaired using one of the special silver paints available, but follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

30 Radio/cassette - fitting

1 In-car entertainment equipment is not provided as standard on the models covered by this Manual. 2 However, the centre console is designed to receive a radio set after removing the blanking plate behind which a power lead is already provided. 3 The ignition system and other electrical components are suppressed during production of the car and further suppression should not be required other than earthing the wiper motor.

Receiver

4 Fit the radio/cassette using the installation kit supplied with the equipment. 5 On Comfort models, fit an in-line fuse in the power feed. On Super models the radio supply is protected by fuse number 12. 6 Make sure that the radio is well earthed to a metal body component.

Aerial

7 The recommended locations for the aerial are towards the rear of the right-hand front wing or on the windscreen pillar. 8 Fitting instructions for Fiat aerials are supplied with them, but the following general advice will help if using non-Fiat equipment.

9 Motorised automatic aerials rise when the equipment is switched on and retract at switch-off. They require more fitting space and supply leads, and can be a source of trouble. 10 There is no merit in choosing a very long aerial as, for example, the type about three metres in length which hooks or clips on to the rear of the car, since part of this aerial will inevitably be located in an interference field. For VHF/FM radios the best length of aerial is about one metre. Active aerials have a transistor amplifier mounted at the base and this serves to boost the received signal. The aerial rod is sometimes rather shorter than normal passive types. 11 A large loss of signal can occur in the aerial feeder cable, especially over the Very High Frequency (VHF) bands. The design of feeder cable is invariably in the co-axial form, ie a centre conductor surrounded by a flexible copper braid forming the outer (earth) conductor. Between the inner and outer conductors is an insulator material which can be in solid or stranded form. Apart from insulation, its purpose is to maintain the correct spacing and concentricity. Loss of signal occurs in this insulator, the loss usually being greater in a poor quality cable. The quality of cable used is reflected in the price of the aerial with the attached feeder cable. 12 The capacitance of the feeder should be within the range 65 to 75 picofarads (pF) approximately (95 to 100 pF for Japanese and American equipment), otherwise the adjustment of the car radio aerial trimmer may not be possible. An extension cable is necessary for a long run between aerial and receiver. If this adds capacitance in excess of the above limits, a connector containing a series capacitor will be required, or an extension which is labelled as “capacity-compensated”. 13 Fitting the aerial will normally involve making a 7/8 in (22 mm) diameter hole in the bodywork, but read the instructions that come with the aerial kit. Once the hole position has been selected, use a centre punch to guide the drill. Use sticky masking tape around the area for this helps with marking out and drill location, and gives protection to the

9•10 Electrical system

Fig. 9.8 Radio housing and power lead (A)

(Sec 30)

28.2 Washer pumps28.1 Washer fluid reservoir27.4 Tailgate wiper motor

paintwork should the drill slip. Three methods of making the hole are in use:

a) Use a hole saw in the electric drill. This is,

in effect, a circular hacksaw blade wrapped round a former with a centre pilot drill.

b) Use a tank cutter which also has cutting

teeth, but is made to shear the metal by tightening with an Allen key.

c) The hard way of drilling out the circle is

using a small drill, say 1/8 in (3 mm), so that the holes overlap. The centre metal drops out and the hole is finished with round and half-round files.

14 Whichever method is used, the burr is removed from the body metal and paint removed from the underside. The aerial is fitted tightly ensuring that the earth fixing, usually a serrated washer, ring or clamp, is making a solid connection. This earth connection is important in reducing interference. Cover any bare metal with primer paint and topcoat, and follow by underseal if desired. 15 Aerial feeder cable routing should avoid the engine compartment and areas where stress might occur, eg under the carpet where feet will be located.

Loudspeakers

16 A mono speaker may be located under the facia panel beneath the glovebox. 17 Provision is made for twin speakers within the door tidy bins or under the rear shelf mountings. 18 Speakers should be matched to the output stage of the equipment, particularly as regards the recommended impedance. Power transistors used for driving speakers are sensitive to the loading placed on them.

31 Electrically-operated front

door windows

1 The electrically-operated front door windows are controlled by switches on the centre console or in the door armrest (depending on model). The regulator motor and cable are located within the door cavity. 2 To gain access to the assembly, remove the door trim panel as described in Chapter 12.

3 Disconnect the wiring plug (1) (Fig. 9.11).

4 Release the bolts which connect the power

lift to the glass mounting. 5 Remove the bolts which hold the lift assembly to the door. 6 The motor and glass mounting may be disconnected from the cable guide and sleeve and any faulty components renewed. 7 When refitting the assembly to the door, make sure that the window glass slides smoothly before fully tightening the cable guide bolts. Refer to Section 10 for details of system fuses and relays.

32 Central door locking system

1 The doors are locked simultaneously from the outside by turning the key in either direction. 2 The doors can be locked from inside the car in the following ways:

All doors locked or unlocked - depress or lift a front door lock plunger knob. One rear door locked or unlocked - depress or lift a rear door lock plunger knob.

Electrical system 9•11

Fig. 9.9 Door speaker mounting (Sec 30) Fig. 9.10 Rear speaker mounting (Sec 30)

Fig. 9.13 Central door locking system

components (Sec 32)

Fig. 9.12 Power operated window

components (Sec 31)

Fig. 9.11 Power-operated window motor

(Sec 31)

1 Connector plug

1 Electric motor 2 Glass mounting 3 Cable guide

4 Cable 5 Cable sleeve

1 Solenoid 2 Lock relay lever 3 Link rod

4 Exterior handle

lever

Fiat Uno 1996 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual