4. Insert top portion of pop-up drain as
is, all the way through the sink drain
hole, mounting ring set and drilled
hole in counter top. Bottom end of
part 1C will protrude from
underneath your counter top.
5. From underneath the counter top,
re-apply white rubber gasket with recessed groove (part 1D) back onto the threaded body (part 1C) with the
groove face up against the counter top underside.
6. Re-apply large brass nut (part 1E) by hand. You may use an appropriately sized
wrench if needed. Make sure you DO NOT overexert this application. If too
much pressure is applied, you may crack the sink drain hole rim, and/or strip the threads
on the drain’s body or the brass nut itself.
7. Place black rubber “T” gasket on top of tail pipe (parts 1F-1G) as shown on
diagram to your left.
8) Apply tail pipe screw (par t 1H) as shown in diagram to
connect to bottom end of part 1C.
RING SET
*Mounting Rings are used
Bottom Bowl Vessel
**You may remove part
1A and set side if deemed
more convenient during
-1A**
-1B
-1C
-2A
-2B
-2C
ONLY for Round
Sinks with No
Overflow Drain.
installation.
Pg 3
Page 4
Pop-up Drain Set with
Overflow Exit
Parts List:
Pop-up Drain Set with
Overflow Exit
Before we start, please make sure the following:
- Diameter of hole drilled in counter top is 1.75”
- Thickness of counter top does NOT exceed 1.5”
- Your drain model is P08 and there are two (2) holes cut
out on the threaded body located across from each other.
Assembly
-2A
-2B
Model#:
P08C
P08BN
P08ORB
Sink
Counter
Top
-1A
-1B
-1C
-1D
Overflow
exit
1) Pop-up Drain:
1A) Umbrella Cap
1B) Flat White Rubber Gasket
1C) Threaded Body with 2
cut outs across each other
1D) White Rubber Gasket
- Waterproof filler or sealant such as silicone or
caulking. Use one or the other. Do not combine
different sealants.
1. Disassemble pop-up drain until you’re left with the top portion (parts 1A-1C) as shown to your right.
2. Prop your sink on its side (as best as you can if you have
an irregular shape). Apply a thin but consistent layer of
waterproof sealant along the underside of part 1B. A
consistent application will ensure a complete seal.
3. Insert top portion of pop-up drain as is, through the sink drain hole. Line up one of the cut
outs on the drain’s body (part 1C) with the hole located in the inner wall of the sink drain hole
shown in diagram as part 2B. Firmly apply to allow for sealant to spread completely around
the sink drain hole rim. Let it set for an hour or until drain can sit in place on its own.
4. When drain is set in place, carefully turn the sink over. Bottom end of part 1C will protrude
from your sink’s underside and it’ll look like below.
5. Apply waterproof sealant all
around the seam of where the drain
body meets the sink ‘s drain hole
edge as shown to your left. Make
sure you apply enough to
form a complete seal. Water
can still travel along the
threads of the drain.
6. Apply sealant to recessed groove of white rubber gasket (part 1D) as shown
below. Re-apply part 1D back onto the threaded body (part 1C) with the groove face down
Apply a thin but consistent
layer of waterproof sealant all
around in recessed
groove.
-1D
8. Allow for sealant to sit overnight to set in place. Set up the sink
with drain on the counter top. Guide protruding drain through drilled
hole in counter top. Set up a container underneath and test if
sealants were set correctly by pouring some water in both the main
drain and overflow drain (part 2A). If there’s a leak between the sink and counter
top, then the sealants did not set correctly. Try again from step #3. If the
same results occur, please contact customer service.
9. From underneath the counter top, re-apply large brass nut (part 1E) to the prodtruding
drain by hand. You may use an appropriately sized wrench if needed. Make sure you DO NOT overexert this application. If too much pressure is applied, you may crack the sink
drain hole rim, and/or strip the threads on the drain’s body or the brass nut itself.
7. Place black rubber “T” gasket on tail pipe (parts 1F-1G) as shown on diagram.
8) Apply tail pipe screw (part 1H) as shown in diagram to connect to
bottom end of part 1C.
against the sink underside. Apply firmly to allow sealant to spread
and join with sealant that was applied
previously.
7. Apply sealant all around the seam
of where the drain body meets the
edge of white rubber gasket part 1D as
shown to your right.
-1A**
-1B
Overflow
exit
-1C
**You may
remove part 1A
and set side if
deemed more
convenient during
installation.
-1D
Pg 4
Page 5
Large Nut Method
Before we start, please make sure the following:
- Diameter of hole in surface for faucet to mount to measures 1.375” to 1.5“
- Thickness of surface to mount faucet to does NOT exceed 1.5”
- Underside of your faucet looks like either below figure A or B
Faucet Installation
Type A Type B
Outlets to
apply hot and
cold water supply lines
are recessed into
underside of faucet.
Parts List:
1) Faucet
2) Faucet Base Ring
3) Mounting Kit:
3A) Black Rubber O Ring
3B) Threaded Anchor Pipe
3C) Black Flat Rubber Gasket
3D) Large Nut
4) Hot/Cold Water Supply Lines
Outlets
to apply
hot and
cold water
supply lines are protruding out
from underside of faucet.
*If you have Faucet
Type B, Faucet Base
Ring (Part 2) is NOT
included.
*
Surface
to
Mount
-1
-2*
-3A
No Threads
-3B
-3C
-3D
Assembly:
-4
1) Apply Threaded Anchor Pipe (Part 3B) to underside of your faucet as shown in
diagram (note the position of the none-threaded par t of the anchor pipe).
2) If your faucet does NOT use a Faucet Base Ring (Part 2), proceed to
step 3. Faucet Base Ring (Part 2)’sunder side has has a recessed groove. Apply Black
Rubber O Ring (Part 3A) to groove if its not already applied. Apply both parts 2 and
3A as isonto threaded pipe, smooth side up against faucet underside, O-ring and recessed groove facing down.
3) If your faucet does NOT use a Faucet Base Ring (Part 2), apply Black Rubber O Ring (Part
3A) to groove on underside of faucet.
4) Insert male end of Water Supply Lines (Part 4) through threaded pipe. Apply and screw to recessed outlets by hand. Please be sure to apply them in a straight manner. Just like a screw, if it is
applied in a crooked manner, the threads may strip which’ll allow for leaks from that outlet.
5) While holding base ring in place (if applicable), guide the supply lines through the hole of the surface you’ll be
mounting the faucet to, along with the threaded anchor pipe. Anchor pipe will protrude from underneath.
6) From underneath the mount surface, apply Black Flat Rubber Gasket (Part 3C) onto water supply lines,
up onto the threaded anchor pipe, setting it against the underside of the mount surface.
7) Apply Large Nut (Part 3D) onto water supply lines, and screw on threaded anchor pipe all the way up
against black flat rubber gasket and underside of the mount surface. Make sure you DO NOT overexert this
application. If too much pressure is applied, you may strip the threads on the anchor pipe or the nut itself.
8) Apply female ends of water supply lines to the cut off valves underneath your sink.
Pg 5
Page 6
Horseshoe Bracket Method
Faucet Installation
Type A Type B
There
are two
(2) outlets
for double stilt screw anchors.
Outlets for hot and cold water
supply lines are visible.
Single stilt screw anchor(may
come already attached). Outlets
for hot and cold water supply lines
are recessed past gold colored
plating.
3) Black Rubber O-Ring or Black
Flat Rubber Gasket
4) Horseshoe Bracket
4A) Black Rubber Gasket (only
available for Type A Faucet)
Alternative Square
shaped horseshoe
bracket for Type B
Faucets
Before we start, please make
sure the following:
- Diameter of hole in surface
for faucet to mount to
measures 1.375” to 1.5“
- Thickness of surface to
mount faucet to does NOT
exceed 1.5”
- Underside of your faucet
looks like either type A or B
shown to the left.
1-
2A-
3-
Surface
to
Mount
4-
2B-
5-
5) Hot/Cold Water Supply Lines
Assembly:
1) Apply Stilt Screw Anchor(s) (Part 2A) to underside of your faucet if its not already attached.
2) Apply and screw male end of Water Supply Lines (Part 4) to outlets on underside of faucet by hand.
Please be sure to apply them in a straight manner. Just like a screw, if it is applied in a
crooked manner, the threads may strip which’ll allow for leaks from that outlet.
3) Apply Black Rubber O Ring (Part 3) to recessed groove on underside of Type A Faucet. For Type B
Faucets, Black Flat Rubber Gasket will sit between faucet and surface to mount.
4) Guide the supply lines and stilt screw(s) through the hole of the surface you’ll be mounting the faucet to. Stilt
screw(s) will protrude from underneath.
5) From underneath the mount surface, apply Horseshoe Bracket (Part 4). If you have a Type A Faucet,
apply black rubber gasket (Part 4A) first. Type B Faucets have 2 options of horseshoe brackets. If you’re
to use the Square Horseshoe bracket, apply it hollow-side up against underside of surface to mount. Match
up hole(s) on horeshoe bracket with stilt screw(s).
6) Apply Bolt(s) (Part 2B) onto stilt screw(s) all the way up against horseshoe bracket and underside of the
mount surface. Make sure you DO NOT overexert this application. If too much pressure is applied, you may strip
the threads on silt screw(s) or the bolt(s).
7) Apply female ends of water supply lines to the cut off valves underneath your sink.
Pg 6
Page 7
Frequently Asked Questions
I purchased a vessel sink+faucet combo. How far apart should the holes on the
mounting platform be for the drain and the faucet?
If you’re planning to drill the holes for mounting, we highly recommend that you have both sink and faucet
items on hand at the time of drilling. Map and mark the layout of both items and then proceed to drilling.
To ensure that water safely flows into the sink, leave about a 0.5“ gap allowance between the edge of the
faucet’s mount base and the corresponding edge of the sink as shown in diagram to the right.
If you’d like to take the mathematical approach, please use the below equation and find the value of Z.
This will determine the distance between the faucet’s center point drill hole to drain’s center point
drill hole.
X
+ 0.5 + Y = Z
10”
Z
2
2.25
Divide faucet base diameter by 2, plus 0.5
for the space between faucet and sink, plus
the distance from center of sink hole to
edge of sink that corresponds with the
faucet. Please note, not all sinks are
symmetrical. Above diagram displays a symmetrical round sink. The value of Z in this scenario is 9.625”,
but it can round off to 9.75”.
What do I do if the default water supply lines my faucet came with are too long?
Unfortunately, the standard length 19” are the shortest ones available, but there are 32” extended length
water supply lines. Tto compensate for the short distance between the faucet and cut-off valves, these
would be long enough to loop without damaging or kinking the lines’ exterior steel braided encasings.
Please contact the vendor you purchased your faucet(s) from for availability.
The dimensions of my tempered glass sink or ceramic sink doesn’t exactly match
what was shown as advertised. Why?
If the dimensions are off by 1/2 an inch or more, then most likely the specification online were incorrect.
Please contact the vendor you purchased the item(s) from for an exchange or return for refund. If the
dimensions are off by less than an inch, then you must take into consideration that sink items are
made/handled by machine AND man, and different variables will affect the way the sink dries or sets during
production, such as climate/temperature and possibly the application of glazes and finishes. You will NOT
be able to get two of the same exact sink models.
Why doesn’t the color/design/pattern of my vessel sink match the
advertised photo?
Photos for advertisements were taken with a high quality SLR camera with flash and white back lighting
and were solely taken to display the details of said item. Items purchased may not look the same in your
bathroom as opposed to our advertised photo. You can acheive a smiliar apperance if items are used in
flourescent lighting
+ 0.5 + 8 = 9.75
2
X
Faucet
Mount Base
8”
2.25”
0.5”
16”
Y
Just like how the dimensions of a sink may not EXACTLY match what was advertised, the firing and
cooling process can play a role in the outcome of the overall appearance. In addition, designs are manually
applied on these special or unique sinks. Though trying to replicate identical sinks, the fact that designs are
applied by hand means that there won’t be two of the same exact pattern of a particular model available.
What is maintained throughout production of a particular model is the color scheme and overall design.
With glass sinks, tempered glass has a natural green hue to it. The tint occurs from iron components, a
natural lubricant which allows for it to be easily drawn, or manipulated to a desired shape. This green hue
is most apparent in no-color-”clear” sinks, frosted sinks, white and silver colored sinks.
Pg 7
Page 8
Mega Lion’s Glass and
Ceramic Terminology
Glass Sinks:
Glass sinks start off as raw components that gets melted down to sheets of glass and the
below techniques are applied to achieve various designs.
Hand-painted - The design/pattern was applied by hand to an already made sink. Paints
and/or materials (for texture) are applied to the underside of a glass and are finished off
with a layer of lacquer.
Hand-crafted - The design/pattern was applied to an already made sink, with the use of a
metal prong that has been heated at a high temperture and then applied to the underside
of a glass, “melting” or etching various designs. After this process sets, the option for
paints and/or materials are applied to the underside of a glass and are finished off with a
layer of lacquer.
Hot Melted - A raw sheet of glass it melted to fill a flat CAD/mold of a particular design.
After mold is set, the flat sheet is removed and then heated/blown to the desired shape.
The option for paints and/or materials are applied to the underside of a glass and are
finished off with a layer of lacquer.
Double Layered - A screenprint process is applied and sandwiched between two layers of
glass. Images/patterns/artwork are printed on layers of glass-film that are heat activated
adhesives, which are then applied to a raw sheet of glass. After the designs are set, the
sheet of glass is then heated/blown to the desired shape and another thin layer of glass is
applied to the underside as a finish. Heat application may affect the design as it would
cause the color pigments to somewhat disperse and position/placement of the artwork
makes it very difficult to replicate identical sink models.
Ceramic Sinks:
Ceramic sinks are made via injection mold method. Components that make up the raw
ceramic material is injected into mold of a particular base shape and left to set till the
consistency is firm enough to cut out holes for the drain and/or overflow drain holes.
Grade A Ceramic - Ceramic that was fired at a low degree of heat.
Porcelain Ceramic - Ceramic that was fired at a high degree of heat.
After holes are cut, the unit is set to side to dry and harden enough to apply the below
techniques without compromising the overall shape of the unit.
.
Hand Painted - Glazes of various colors are applied in layers manually with/without the
use of a stencil to deliver a variety of designs. Unit is set to kiln to bake
Hand Crafted - Textured designs are applied manually and/or with the use of sculpting
tools. Glazes of various colors are applied as a design technique or as a finish and unit is
set to kiln to bake.
Pg 8
Page 9
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