Elenco Projects 512-692 User Manual
Copyright © 2012, 2010 by Elenco®Electronics, Inc., all rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced by 753292
any means; electronic, photocopying, or otherwise without written permission from the publisher.
REV-E Revised 2012
Project 526
-1-
Table of Contents
Basic T roubleshooting 1
Parts List 2
About the Two-Spring Socket (?1) 3
MORE
About Your Snap Circuits®Parts 4
MORE
Advanced T roub leshooting 4
MORE
DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits 5
Project Listings 6, 7
Projects 512-692 8 - 84
Other Fun Elenco®Products 85 - 86
1. Most circuit problems are due to incorrect assembly.
Always double-check that your circuit exactly
matches the drawing for it.
2. Be sure that parts with positive/negative markings are
positioned as per the drawing.
3. Be sure that all connections are securely snapped.
4. Try replacing the batteries.
5. If the motor spins but does not balance the fan, check
the black plastic piece with three prongs on the motor
shaft. Be sure that it is at the top of the shaft.
Elenco
®
is not responsible for parts damaged due to
incorrect wiring.
Basic T roub leshooting
Note: If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can
follow the Advanced Troubleshooting procedure on page 4
to determine which ones need replacing.
Review of How To Use It (See page 3 of the Projects 1-101 manual for more details.)
The Snap Circuits®kit uses building blocks with snaps
to build the different electrical and electronic circuits in
the projects. These blocks are in different colors and
have numbers on them so that you can easily identify
them. The circuit you will build is shown in color and
with numbers, identifying the blocks that you will use
and snap together to form a circuit.
Next to each part in every circuit drawing is a small
number in black. This tells you which level the
component is placed at. Place all parts on level 1 first,
then all of the parts on level 2, then all of the parts on
level 3, etc.
A large clear plastic base grid is included with this kit
to help keep the circuit block together. The base has
rows labeled A-G and columns labeled 1-10.
Install two (2) “AA” batteries (not included) in the
battery holder (B1). The 2.5V and 6V bulbs come
packaged separate from their sockets. Install the 2.5V
bulb in the L1 lamp socket, and the 6V bulb in the L2
lamp socket.
Place the fan on the motor (M1) whenever that part is
used, unless the project you are building says not to
use it.
Some circuits use the red and black jumper wires to
make unusual connections. Just clip them to the metal
snaps or as indicated.
Note: While building the projects, be careful not to
accidentally make a direct connection across the
battery holder (a “short circuit”), as this may damage
and/or quickly drain the batteries.
WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD -
Never connect Snap Circuits®to
the electrical outlets in your home
in any way!
WARNING FOR ALL PROJECTS WITH A SYMBOL
Moving parts. Do not touch the motor or fan during operation. Do not lean
over the motor. Do not launch the fan at people, animals, or objects. Eye
protection is recommended.
!
!
WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD-
Small parts.
Not for children under 3 years.
!
Batteries:
• Use only 1.5V AA type, alkaline batteries
(not included).
• Insert batteries with correct polarity.
• Non-rechargeable batteries should not
be recharged. Rechargeable batteries
should only be charged under adult
supervision, and should not be
recharged while in the product.
• Do not mix alkaline, standard (carbonzinc), or rechargeable (nickel-cadmium)
batteries.
• Do not mix old and new batteries.
• Remove batteries when they are used up.
• Do not short circuit the battery terminals.
• Never throw batteries in a fire or attempt
to open its outer casing.
• Batteries are harmful if swallowed, so
keep away from small children.
• Do not connect batteries or battery
holders in parallel.
!
WARNING: Always check your wiring before
turning on a circuit. Never leave a circuit
unattended while the batteries are installed. Never
connect additional batteries or any other power
sources to your circuits. Discard any cracked or
broken parts.
Adult Supervision: Because children’s abilities
v
ary so much, even with age groups, adults should
exercise discretion as to which experiments are
suitable and safe (the instructions should enable
supervising adults to establish the experiment’s
suitability for the child). Make sure your child reads
and follows all of the relevant instructions and
safety procedures, and keeps them at hand for
reference.
This product is intended for use by adults and
children who have attained sufficient maturity to
read and follow directions and warnings.
Never modify your parts, as doing so may disable
important safety features in them, and could put
your child at risk of injury.
!
-2-
Note: There are additional part lists in your other project manuals. Part designs are subject to change without notice.
Important: If any parts are missing or damaged, DO NOT RETURN TO RETAILER. Call toll-free (800) 533-2441 or e-mail us at:
help@elenco.com. Customer Ser vice • 150 Car penter Ave. • Wheeling, IL 60090 U.S.A.
Parts List (Colors and styles may vary) Symbols and Numbers
Qty. ID Name Symbol Par t #
r 1
Solar Cell 6SCB2
r 1
r 1
Electromagnet
Iron Core Rod
6SCM3
6SCM3B
r 1
Vibration Switch 6SCS4
r 1
Bag of Paperclips 6SCM3P
r 1
Two-spring
Socket
6SCPY1
You may order additional / replacement parts at our website: www.snapcircuits.net
?1
S4
M3
B2
-3-
The two-spring socket (?1) just has two springs, and won’t do
anything by itself. It is not used in any of the experiments. It was
included to make it easy to connect other electronic components to
your Snap Circuits
®
. It should only be used b y adv anced users who
are creating their own circuits.
There are many different types of electronic components and basic
parts like resistors and capacitors have a wide range of available
values. For example, Snap Circuits
®
includes five fixed-value
resistors (100Ω, 1KΩ, 5.1KΩ, 10KΩ, and 100KΩ). This is a very
limited choice of values, and difficult to design circuits with. Snap
Circuits
®
also includes a adjustable resistor (RV), but it is difficult to
set this part to a par ticular value. You can place your resistors in
series and parallel to make different values (as is done with the
5.1KΩ and 10KΩ in project #166), but this is also difficult with only
five values to choose from.
Many customers like to create their own circuits and asked us to
include more resistor values with Snap Circuits
®
. We could have
done that, but you would never hav e enough. And resistors are not
very exciting components by themselv es. You could try to use your
own resistors, but they are difficult to connect since normal
electronic parts come with wires on them instead of snaps.
The two-spring socket (?1) makes it easy to connect your own
resistors (and other parts) to circuits by connecting them between
the springs:
Any component with two wires coming from it (called leads) can be
connected with the two-spring socket (?1), assuming the leads are
long enough. Usually you will connect different values of resistors
or capacitors, but other components like LED’s, diodes, or
coils/inductors can also be used. You can usually find electronic
components at any store specializing in electronics.
You can design your own circuits or substitute new parts into the
projects in the manuals. For LED’s, diodes, or electrolytic
capacitors, be sure to connect your parts using the correct polarity
or you may damage them. Never exceed the v oltage r atings of an y
parts. Never connect to external voltage sources. ELENCO
®
IS
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY PARTS DAMAGED BY
IMPROPER CIRCUIT DESIGN OR WIRING. The two-spring
socket is only intended for advanced users.
About the TWO-SPRING SOCKET (?1)
Resistor Capacitor
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
Elenco®is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.
If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can follow this procedure to systematically
determine which ones need replacing:
1 - 28. Refer to the other project manuals for testing steps 1-28, then continue below.
29. Solar Cell (B2): Build the mini-circuit shown
here and set the meter (M2) to the LO
W (or
10mA) setting. Hold the circuit near a lamp
and the meter pointer should move.
30. Electromagnet (M3): Build the mini-circuit
sho
wn here. Lamp (L1) must be dim, and must
get brighter when you press the press switch
(S2).
31. Vibration Switch (S4): Build the mini-circuit
sho
wn here and shake the base grid. The LED
should go on and off as you shake.
-4-
The solar cell (B2) contains positively and negatively
charged silicon crystals, arranged in layers that cancel
each other out. When sunlight shines on it, charged
particles in the light unbalance the silicon layers and
produce an electrical voltage (about 3V). The maximum
current depends on how the type of light and its
brightness, but will be much less than a battery can
supply. Bright sunlight works best, but incandescent light
bulbs also work.
The electromagnet (M3) is a large coil of wire, which acts
lik
e a magnet when a current flows through it. Placing an
iron bar inside increases the magnetic effects. Note that
magnets can erase magnetic media like floppy discs.
When shaken, the vibraton switch (S4) contains two
separ
ate contacts; and a spring is connected to one of
them. A vibration causes the spring to move, briefly
connecting the two contacts.
The two-spring socket (?1) is described on page 3.
MORE
Advanced T roubleshooting (Adult supervision recommended)
MORE
About Y our
Snap Circuits®Parts
(Note: There is additional information in your other project manuals).
A Note on Sun Power
The sun produces heat and light on an immense scale, by
transforming Hydrogen gas into Helium gas. This
“transformation” is a thermonuclear reaction, similar to the
explosion of a Hydrogen bomb. The earth is protected from
most of this heat and radiation by being so far a w ay, and by
its atmosphere. But e v en here the sun still has power, since
it can spin the motor on your kit and give you sunburn on a
hot day.
Nearly all of the energy in any form on the surface of the
earth originally came from the sun. Plants get energy for
growth from the sun using a process called photosynthesis.
People and animals get energy for growth by eating plants
(and other animals). Fossil fuels such as oil and coal that
power most of our society are the decayed remains of
plants from long ago. These fuels exist in large but limited
quantity, and are rapidly being consumed. Solar cells will
produce electricity as long as the sun is bright, and will
have an ever-increasing effect on our lives.
Our Student Guides give much more information about your
parts, along with a complete lesson in basic electronics. See
www.snapcircuits.net/learn.htm for more information.
-5-
MORE
DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits
After building the circuits given in this booklet, you may wish to experiment on your
own. Use the projects in this booklet as a guide, as many important design concepts
are introduced throughout them. Every circuit will include a power source (the
batteries), a resistance (which might be a resistor, lamp, motor, integrated circuit, etc.),
and wiring paths between them and back. You must be careful not to create “short
circuits”
(very low-resistance paths across the batteries, see examples below) as this
will damage components and/or quickly drain your batteries. Only connect the IC’s
using configurations given in the projects, incorrectly doing so may damage them.
Elenco
®
is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.
Here are some important guidelines:
ALWAYS
USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN EXPERIMENTING ON YOUR OWN.
ALWAYS
include at least one component that will limit the current through a circuit,
such as the speaker, lamp, whistle chip, capacitors, ICs (which must be
connected properly), motor, microphone, photo resistor, or fixed resistors.
ALWAYS
use the 7-segment display, LED’s, transistors, the high frequency IC, the
SCR, the antenna, and switches in conjunction with other components
that will limit the current through them. Failure to do so will create a
short circuit and/or damage those par ts.
ALWAYS
connect the adjustable resistor so that if set to its 0 setting, the current will
be limited by other components in the circuit.
ALWAYS
connect position capacitors so that the “+” side gets the higher voltage.
ALWAYS
disconnect your batteries immediately and check your wiring if something
appears to be getting hot.
ALWAYS
check your wiring before turning on a circuit.
ALWAYS
connect ICs, the FM module, and the SCR using configurations given
in the projects or as per the connection descriptions for the parts.
NEVER
try to use the high frequency IC as a transistor (the packages are similar, but
the parts are different).
NEVER
use the 2.5V lamp in a circuit with both battery holders unless you are sure
that the voltage across it will be limited.
NEVER
connect to an electrical outlet in your home in any way.
NEVER
leave a circuit unattended when it is turned on.
NEVER
touch the motor when it is spinning at high speed.
For all of the projects given in this book, the parts may be arranged in different ways
without changing the circuit. For example, the order of parts connected in series or in
parallel does not matter — what matters is how combinations of these sub-circuits are
arranged together.
Examples of SHORT CIRCUITS - NEVER DO THESE!!!
You are encouraged to tell us about new circuits you create. If they are
unique, we will post them with your name and state on our website at
www.snapcircuits.net/kidkreations.htm. Send your suggestions to
ELENCO
®
.
Elenco®provides a circuit designer so that you can make your own Snap
Circuits®drawings. This Microsoft®Word document can be downloaded
from www.snapcircuits.net/SnapDesigner.doc or through the
www.snapcircuits.net web site.
WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD - Ne
ver connect Snap Circuits®to
the electrical outlets in your home in any way!
Placing a 3-snap wire directly
across the batteries is a
SHORT CIRCUIT.
This is also a
SHORT CIRCUIT.
When the slide switch (S1) is turned on, this large circuit has a SHORT
CIRCUIT path (as shown by the arrows). The short circuit prevents any
other portions of the circuit from ever working.
NEVER
DO!
Warning to Snap Rover owners: Do not connect y our parts to the
Rover body except when using our approved circuits, the Rover
body has a higher voltage which could damage your parts.
!
!
NEVER
DO!
!
!
!
NEVER
DO!
NEVER
DO!
Project # Description Page #
512 Siren 8
513 Electronic Rain 8
514 Leaky Faucet 9
515 Lamp & Fan Independent 9
516 Drawing Resistors 10
517 Electronic Kazoo 11
518 Electronic Kazoo (II) 11
519 Water Resistor 12
520 Two-Transistor Oscillator 12
521 Diode 13
522 Rectifier 13
523 Motor Rectifier 14
524 SCR Shutdown 14
525 SCR Motor Control 15
526 Output Forms 15
527 Transistor AM Radio 16
528 Adjustable Solar Power Meter 16
529 Fan Blade Storing Energy 17
530 Antenna Storing Energy 17
531 Electromagnet Storing Energy 17
532 Transformer Storing Energy 18
533 Relay Storing Energy 18
534 Transformer Lights 18
535 Machine Siren 19
536 Hear the Motor 19
537 Back EMF 20
538 Back EMF (II) 20
539 Electronic Sound 21
540 Electronic Sound (II) 21
541 Lighthouse 21
542 Diode Wonderland 22
543 Meter Ranges 22
544 Motor Current 23
545 2.5V Lamp Current 23
Project # Description Page #
546 6V Lamp Current 23
547
Combined Lamp Circuits 23
548 Rechargeable Battery 24
549 Solar Batteries 24
550 Solar Control 25
551 Solar Resistance Meter 25
552 Solar Diode Tester 25
553 Solar NPN T ransistor Tester 26
554 Solar PNP T ransistor Tester 26
555 Solar Cell vs. Battery 27
556 Solar Cell vs. Battery (II) 27
557 Solar Music 28
558 Solar Sounds Combo 28
559 Solar Alarm 29
560 Better Solar Alarm 29
561 Photo Solar Alarm 30
562 Solar Space War 30
563 Solar Music Alarm Combo 31
564 Solar Music Space War Combo 31
565
Solar Music Space War Combo (II)
31
566 Solar Periodic Lights 32
567 Solar Periodic Lights (II) 32
568 Solar AM Radio Transmitter 32
569 Low Light Noisemaker 33
570 Low Light Noisemaker (II) 33
571 Low Light Noisemaker (III) 33
572 Solar Oscillator 34
573 Solar Oscillator (II) 34
574 Daylight SCR Lamp 34
575 Solar Bird Sounds 35
576 Solar Bird Sounds (II) 35
577 SCR Solar Bomb Sounds 36
578
Flashing Laser LED’s with Sound
36
579 U2 with Transistor Amplifier 37
Project # Description Page #
580 U2 with Transistor Amplifier (II) 37
581
U1 with Transistor Amplifier 37
582 Loud Sounds 38
583 Swinging Meter with Sound 38
584 Motor Sound Using Transformer 39
585 Motor Sound with LED 39
586 Motor Sound with LED (II) 39
587 AC & DC Current 40
588 Noisemaker 40
589 AC Voltage 41
590 AC Voltage (II) 41
591 AC Voltage (III) 42
592 Noisemaker (II) 42
593 Noisemaker (III) 43
594 Pulsing Motor 43
595 Noisemaker (IV) 44
596 Noisemaker (V) 44
597 Noisemaker (VI) 44
598 Noisemaker (VII) 44
599 Noisemaker (VIII) 44
600 Noisemaker (IX) 44
601 Alarm Power 45
602 Alarm Power (II) 45
603 Night Sounds 45
604 Mega Pulser and Flasher 46
605 “E” & “S” Blinker 46
606 “2” & “3” Blinker 47
607 “9” & “0” Blinker 47
608 “3” & “6” Blinker 48
609 “c” & “C” Blinker 48
610 “O” & “o” Blinker 49
611 “b” & “d” Blinker 49
612 “H” & “L” Blinker 50
613 “A” & “o” Blinker 50
-6-
Project Listings
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-7-
Project # Description Page #
614 Open & Closed Indicator 51
615 Open & Closed Indicator (II) 51
616 Vibration Indicator 51
617 Vibration Sounder 52
618 SCR Noise Circuit 52
619 SCR & Transistor Switch 53
620 Two-speed Motor 53
621 Two-speed Motor (II) 54
622 Current Flow 54
623 AM Radio with Power LED’s 55
624 Space War IC Recording 55
625 LED Flasher 56
626 LED Flasher with Sound 56
627 LED Flasher with Sound (II) 56
628 Stepper Motor 57
629 Crazy Music IC 57
630 Stepper Motor w/ Sound 58
631 Stepper Motor w/ Light 58
632 Police Siren with Display 58
633 Oscillator Alarm 59
634 Oscillator Alarm (II) 59
635 Tapping U3 59
636 Tapping U3 (II) 59
637 Adjustable Beeper 60
638 Electronic Meow 60
639 Electronic Meow (II) 60
640 Strobe Light 61
641 AND Gate 61
642 NAND Gate 62
643 OR Gate 62
644 NOR Gate 63
645 XOR Gate 63
646 High Pitch Oscillator 64
647 Low Pitch Oscillator 64
Project # Description Page #
648 Low Pitch Oscillator (II) 64
649
Low Pitch Oscillator (III) 64
650 Segment Jumper 65
651 DP & Zero Flasher 65
652
Stepper Motor with Lamp & LED’s
66
653 IC Start & Stop 66
654 IC Motor Speed 67
655 Sound & Light Flasher 67
656 Electromagnet Delayer 68
657 Electromagnet Delayer (II) 68
658 Two-Lamp Electromagnet
Delayer 69
659 Electromagnet Current 69
660 Electromagnetism 70
661 Electromagnetism & Compass 70
662 Electromagnetism & Paperclips 71
663 Electromagnet Suction 71
664 Electromagnet Tower 72
665 Paperclip Compass 72
666 Adjustable Paperclip
Suspension 73
667 Adjustable Paperclip w/ Delay 73
668 Photoresistor Paperclip
Suspension 74
669 Paperclip Oscillator 74
670 Paperclip Oscillator (II) 75
671 Paperclip Oscillator (III) 75
672 Paperclip Oscillator (IV) 76
673 Paperclip Oscillator (V) 76
674 Oscillating Compass 76
675 High Frequency Vibrator 77
676 High Frequency Vibrator (II) 77
677 Siren Paperclip Vibrator 78
678 Alarm Paperclip Vibrator 78
Project # Description Page #
679 Machine Gun Paperclip
Vibr
ator 78
680 Alarm Vibrator w/ LED 79
681 Alarm Vibrator w/ LED (II) 79
682 Relay-Whistle Vibrator 80
683 Relay-Whistle Photo Vibrator 80
684 Vibration LED 81
685 Vibration Speaker 81
686 Measure the Vibration as You
Tap the Switch 81
687 Shaky Birthday Song 82
688 Vibration Detector 82
689 Out of Balance 83
690 Vibration Alarm 83
691 Vibration Space War 84
692 Vibration Light 84
Project Listings
-8-
Project #512
OBJECTIVE: To make a siren that slowly starts up and fades
away.
Turn on the slide switch (S1), and then press the press switch (S2) for
a few seconds and release. A siren star ts up and then slowly fades
away as the 10μF capacitor (C3) discharges.
Siren
Project #513
OBJECTIVE: To make a low-frequency oscillator.
Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a sound like
raindrops. The adjustable resistor (RV) controls the rain. Turn it to the
left to make a drizzle and turn to the right to make the rain come
pouring down.
You can replace the 10KΩ resistor (R4) with the 1KΩ (R2) or 5.1KΩ
(R3) resistors to speed up the rain.
Electronic Rain
-9-
This circuit was suggested by
Luke S. of Westborough, MA.
Project #514
OBJECTIVE: To make a low-frequency oscillator.
Build the circuit and set the adjustable resistor (R V) control all the way
to the right. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and you hear a sound like a
faucet dripping. You can speed up the dripping by moving the
adjustable resistor control around.
Leaky Faucet
Project #515
OBJECTIVE: To show how switches allow circuits to operate
independently even though they have the same power source.
This circuit combines projects #1, #2, and #6 into one circuit.
Build the circuit and place the fan on the motor (M1). Depending on
which of the switches (S1 & S2) are on, you can turn on either the
lamp (project #1), the motor (project #2), or both together (project #6).
Lamp & Fan
Independent
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-10-
OBJECTIVE: To make your own resistors.
You need some more parts to do this experiment, so you’re going to
draw them. Take a pencil (No. 2 lead is best but other types will also
work), SHARPEN IT, and fill in the 4 rectangles you see below. You
will get better results if you place a hard, flat surface between this
page and the rest of this booklet while you are drawing. Press hard
(but don’t rip the paper) and fill in each several times to be sure you
have a thick, even layer of pencil lead and try to avoid going out of
the boundaries.
Actually, your pencils aren’t made out of lead anymore (although we
still call them “lead pencils”). The “lead” in your pencils is really a form
of carbon, the same material that resistors are made of. So the
drawings you just made should act just like the resistors in Snap
Circuits
®
.
Build the circuit shown, it is the same basic oscillator circuit you have
been using. Touch the the loose ends of the jumper wires to opposite
ends of the rectangles you drew, you should hear a sound like an
alarm. Note: You may get better electrical contact between the wires
and the drawings if you wet the metal with a few drops of water or
saliva.
Making the drawn resistors longer should increase the resistance
while making them wider should reduce the resistance. So all 4
rectangles should produce the same sound, though you will see
variations due to how thick and evenly you filled in the rectangles, and
exactly where you touch the wires. If your 4 shapes don’t sound
similar then try improving your drawings.
Be sure to wash your hands after this project.
Shapes to be drawn.
Use a SHARP No. 2 pencil, draw on
a hard surface, press hard and fill in
several times for best results.
Project #516 Drawing Resistors
-11-
Shape to be drawn.
Use a SHARP No. 2 pencil, draw on
a hard surface, press hard and fill in
several times for best results.
Use the same circuit as project #516, but draw a new shape. A Kazoo
is a musical instrument that is like a one-note flute, and you change the
pitch (frequency) of the sound by moving a plunger up and down inside
a tube.
As before, take a pencil (No. 2 lead is best but other types will also
work), SHARPEN IT again, and fill in the shape you see below. For best
results, SHARPEN IT again, place a hard flat surface between this
page and the rest of this booklet while you are drawing. Press hard
(but don’t rip the paper). Fill in eac h se veral times to be sure you have
a thick, even layer of pencil lead, and try to avoid going out of the
boundaries. Where the shape is just a line, draw a thick line and go
over it several times. The black ink in this manual is an insulator just
like paper, so you have to write over it with your pencil.
Take one loose wire and touch it to the widest part of this shape, at the
upper left. Take the other loose wire and touch it just to the right of the
first wire. You should hear a high-pitch sound. How do you think the
sound will change as you slide the second wire to the right? Do it, slowly
sliding all the way around to the end. The sound changes from high
frequency to low frequency, just like a kazoo. Note: You may get better
electrical contact between the wires and the drawings if you wet the
wires with a few drops of water or saliva.
Shape to be drawn.
Use a SHARP No. 2 pencil, draw on
a hard surface, press hard and fill in
several times for best results.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Project #517 Electronic Kazoo
Project #518
Electronic Kazoo (II)
Use the same circuit as project #516, but fill in the new shape shown
here.
Take one loose jumper wire and touch it to the left circle. Take the other
loose wire and touch it to each of the other circles. The various circles
produce different pitches in the sound, like notes. Since the circles are
like keys on a piano, you now have an electronic keyboard! See what
kind of music you can play with it. Note: You may get better electrical
contact between the wires and the drawings if you wet the wires with a
few drops of water or saliva.
Now take one loose wire and touch it to the right circle (#11). Take the
other wire and touch it to the circles next to the numbers shown below,
in order:
7 - 5 - 1 - 5 - 7 - 7 - 7
5 - 5 - 5
7 - 7 - 7
7 - 5 - 1 - 5 - 7 - 7 - 7 - 7 - 5 - 5 - 7 - 5 - 1
Do you recognize this nursery rhyme? It is “Mary Had a Little Lamb”. By
now you see that you can draw any shape you like and make electronic
sounds with it. Experiment on your own as much as you like. Be sure
to wash your hands after this test.
-12-
Use the same circuit as project #516. T ak e the two loose jumper wires
and touch them with your fingers. You should hear a low-frequency
sound. Now place the loose jumpers in a cup of water without them
touching each other. The sound will have a much higher frequency
because drinking water has lower resistance than your body. You can
change the sound by adding or removing water from the cup. If you
add salt to the water then you will notice the frequency increase,
because dissolving salt lowers the resistance of the water.
You can also make a water kazoo. Pour a small amount of water on a
table or the floor and spread it with your finger into a long line. Place
one of the jumper wires at one end and slide the other along the water.
You should get an effect just like the kazoo you drew with the pencil,
though the frequency will probably be different.
Project #519
OBJECTIVE: To use water as a resistor.
Water Resistor
Project #520
OBJECTIVE: To make an adjustable low-frequency oscillator.
Build the circuit, turn on the slide switch (S1), and then press the press
switch (S2). Move the control lever of the adjustable resistor (RV) to
change the frequency.
Two-Transistor
Oscillator
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-13-
Turn on the slide switch (S1), the lamp (L2) will be bright and the LED
(D1) will be lit. The diode (D3) allows the batteries to charge up the
470μF capacitor (C5) and light the LED.
Turn off the slide switch, the lamp will go dark immediately but the LED
will stay lit for a few seconds as capacitor C5 discharges through it.
The diode isolates the capacitor from the lamp; if y ou replace the diode
with a 3-snap wire then the lamp will drain the capacitor almost
instantly.
Project #521
OBJECTIVE: To show how a diode works.
Diode
Project #522
OBJECTIVE: To build a rectifier.
Rectifier
This circuit is based on the Trombone project #238. Turn on the slide
switch (S1) and set the adjustable resistor (RV) for mid-range for the
best sound. The LED (D1) will also be lit.
The signal from the power amplifier (U4) to the speaker (SP) is a
changing (AC) voltage, not the constant (DC) voltage needed to light
the LED. The diode (D3) and capacitor (C5) are a rectifier, which
converts the AC voltage into a DC voltage.
The diode allows the capacitor to charge up when the power amp
voltage is high, but also prevents the capacitor from discharging when
the power amp voltage is low. If you replace the diode with a 3-snap
or remove the capacitor from the circuit, the LED will not light.
-14-
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Place the fan on the
motor (M1) and turn on the slide switch (S1), the meter measures the
current on the other side of the transformer (T1).
As the DC voltage from the battery (B1) spins the motor, the motor
creates an AC ripple in the voltage. This ripple passes through the
transformer using magnetism. The diode and 0.1μF capacitor (C2)
“rectify” the AC ripple into the DC current that the meter measures.
Holding down the press switch (S2) connects the 470μF capacitor
(C5) across the motor. This filters out the AC ripple, so the current
through the meter is greatly reduced but the motor speed is not
affected.
Project #523
OBJECTIVE: To show how what a rectifier does.
Motor Rectifier
Project #524
OBJECTIVE: To show how an SCR works.
SCR Shutdown
In this circuit the press switch (S2) controls an SCR (Q3), which
controls a transistor (Q2), which controls an LED (D1). Set the
adjustable resistor (RV) control lever to the top (toward the press
switch).
Turn on the slide switch (S1); nothing happens. Press and release the
press switch; the SCR, transistor, and LED turn on and stay on. Now
move the adjustable resistor control down until the LED turns off.
Press and release the press switch again; this time the LED comes on
but goes off after you release the press switch.
If the current through an SCR (anode-to-cathode) is above a threshold
level, then the SCR stays on. In this circuit you can set the adjustable
resistor so that the SCR (and the LED it controls) just barely stays on
or shuts off.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-15-
SCR’s are often used to control the speed of a motor. The voltage to
the gate would be a stream of pulses, and the pulses are made wider
to increase the motor speed.
Place the fan on the motor (M1) and turn on the slide switch (S1). The
motor spins and the lamp (L2) lights. Wave your hand over the
photoresistor (RP) to control how much light shines on it, this will
adjust the speed of the motor. By moving your hand in a repetitive
motion, you should be able spin the motor at a slow and steady speed.
Project #525
OBJECTIVE: To show how an SCR is used.
SCR Motor Control
Project #526
OBJECTIVE: To show the different types of output from Snap
Circuits®.
Output Forms
Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. This circuit uses all
six forms of output available in Snap Circuits
®
- speaker (SP, sound),
lamp (L1, light), LED (D1, light), motor (M1, motion), 7-segment
display (D7, light), and meter (M2, motion of pointer).
Place the fan on the motor, turn on the slide switch (S1), and shine
light on the solar cell (B2). There will be activity from all six forms of
output. If the motor does not spin, then give it a push with your finger
to start it, or remove the fan.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-16-
This AM radio circuit uses a transistor (Q2) in the amplifier that drives
the speaker (SP). T urn on the slide switch (S1) and adjust the variable
capacitor (CV) for a radio station, then adjust the loudness using the
adjustable resistor (RV).
Project #527
OBJECTIVE: To show the output of an AM radio.
Transistor AM Radio
Project #528
OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.
Adjustable Solar
Power Meter
Set the adjustable resistor (RV) for mid-range and the meter (M2) for
the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and let light
shine on the solar cell (B2). Move the solar cell around different light
sources and adjust the adjustable resistor to change the reading on
the meter.
Place your hand to cover half of the solar cell, the meter reading
should drop by half. When you reduce the light to the solar cell, the
current in the circuit is reduced.
Place a sheet of paper over the solar cell and see how much it
changes the reading on the meter. Then add more sheets until the
meter reads zero.
-17-
Turn on the slide switch (S1); nothing
happens. Turn the switch off; the LED
(D1) flashes.
When you turn on the switch, the
electromagnet (M3) stores energy from
the batteries (B1) into a magnetic field.
When you turn off the switch, the
magnetic field collapses and the energy
from it discharges through the LED.
Modify project #529 by replacing the motor (M1) with the
antenna coil (A1). Hold down the press switch (S2) and
then watch the LED (D1) as you release the press switch.
The LED lights briefly but only after the batteries (B2) are
disconnected from the circuit.
This circuit is different from the Fan Blade Storing Energy
project because energy in the antenna coil is stored in a
magnetic field. When the press switch is released, this
field creates a brief current through the LED.
Note that the energy stored in a magnetic field acts like
mechanical momentum, unlike capacitors which store
energy as an electrical charge across a material. You can
replace the antenna with any of the capacitors but the LED
will not light. Energy stored in the magnetic fields of coils
was called electrical momentum in the early days of
electronics.
Antenna Storing
Energy
Project #529
OBJECTIVE: To show that the fan blade stores energy.
Fan Blade Storing Energy
Project #531
OBJECTIVE: To show that the antenna stores energy.
Electromagnet
Storing Energy
Place the fan on the motor (M1). Hold down the press switch (S2) for
a few seconds and then watch the LED (D1) as you release the press
switch. The LED lights briefly but only after the batteries (B1) are
disconnected from the circuit.
Do you know why the LED lights? It lights because the mechanical
energy stored in the fan blade makes the motor act like a generator.
When the press switch is released, this energy creates a brief current
through the LED. If you remove the fan blade from the circuit then the
LED will never light, because the motor shaft alone does not store
enough mechanical energy.
If you rev erse the motor direction, then the LED will light the same wa y,
but the fan may fly off after the LED lights.
This circuit was suggested by
Mike D. of Woodhaven, NY.
Project #530
OBJECTIVE: To show that the
electromagnet stores energy.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-18-
Watch the LED’s (D1 & D2) as you press or release
the press switch (S2). The red LED (D1) lights briefly
just as you press the press switch and the green LED
(D2) lights briefly just after you release it, but neither
lights while you hold the press switch down. Why?
When you press the press switch, a surge of current
from the battery charges a magnetic field in the
transformer (T1), which stays constant as the press
switch is held down. Charging the magnetic field
induces an opposing current on the other side of the
transformer, which lights the red LED until the
magnetic fields stabilize.
When you release the press switch (removing the
current from the battery), the magnetic field
discharges. Initially the transformer tries to maintain
the magnetic field by inducing a current on the other
side, which lights the green LED until the resistor (R1)
absorbs the remaining energy.
Note that this project is different from the Antenna
Storing Energy project because there is a magnetic
connection across the transformer, not an electrical
connection.
Modify project #532 by replacing
the transformer (T1) with the relay
(S3), position it with the 3-snap
sides to top and right (as in project
#341).
Hold down the press switch (S2)
and then watch the LED (D1) as
you release the press switch. The
LED lights briefly but only after the
batteries (B1) are disconnected
from the circuit.
The relay has a coil similar to the
one in the transformer, and stores
energy in the same way.
Relay Storing
Energy
Project #532
OBJECTIVE: To show that the transformer stores electrical
energy.
Transformer Storing Energy
Project #534
OBJECTIVE: To show how the transformer works.
Transformer Lights
Hold down the press switch (S2) and then watch the LED (D1) as you
release the press switch. The LED lights briefly but only after the
batteries (B1) are disconnected from the circuit.
This circuit is similar to the Antenna Storing Energy project, and shows
how the coils in the transformer (T1) also store energy in magnetic
fields. When the press switch is released, this energy creates a brief
current through the LED.
Project #533
This circuit is based
on one suggested by
Mike D. of
Woodhaven, NY.
OBJECTIVE: To show that the
relay stores energy.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-19-
Project #535
Project #536
OBJECTIVE: To show how a motor works.
Hear the Motor
Place the fan on the motor (M1). Press the press switch (S2) and
listen to the motor. Why does the motor make sound?
A motor uses magnetism to convert electrical energy into mechanical
spinning motion. As the motor shaft spins around it connects/
disconnects several sets of electrical contacts to give the best
magnetic properties. As these contacts are switched, an electrical
disturbance is created, which the speaker converts into sound.
This circuit was suggested by Andrew M.
of Cochrane, Alberta, Canada
Turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a strange sound from the
speaker (SP). Push the press switch (S2) and the sound changes to
a high-pitch siren.
The alarm IC (U2) produces a smooth siren sound, but the
electromagnet (M3) distorts the siren into the strange sound you hear.
Adding the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) counters the electromagnet effects
and restores the siren.
OBJECTIVE: To see how the electromagnet can change the
sound from the alarm IC.
Machine Siren
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-20-
The voltage produced by a motor when it is spinning is called its
Back
Electro-Motive-Force
(Back EMF); this may be thought of as the
motor’s electrical resistance. The motor’s
Front Electro-Motive-Force
is the force it exerts in trying to spin the shaft. This circuit
demonstrates how the Back EMF increases and the current decreases
as the motor speeds up.
Place the fan on the motor (M1) and turn on the slide switch (S1). The
6V bulb (L2) will be bright, indicating that the Back EMF is low and the
current is high.
Turn off the slide switch, remove the fan, and turn the slide switch back
on. The lamp is bright when the motor starts and the lamp dims as the
motor speeds up. Now the Back EMF is high and the current is low.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE MOTOR WHILE IT SPINS.
Project #537
OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate how the motor works.
Back EMF
Project #538
OBJECTIVE:
To demonstrate how the motor draws more current
to exert greater force when spinning slowly.
Back EMF (II)
Place the fan on the motor (M1). Connect the photoresistor (RP) with
the jumper wires as shown, and hold it next to the 6V lamp (L2) so the
light shines on it.
Turn on the slide switch (S1) and watch how the 6V lamp is bright at
first, but gets dim as the motor speeds up. By moving the
photoresistor (RP) next to or away from the 6V lamp, you should be
able to change the motor speed. To slow the motor down even more,
cover the photoresistor.
When the photoresistor is held next to the 6V lamp, tr ansistor Q2 (with
lamp L1) will try to keep the motor at a constant speed.
!
WARNING: Moving parts.
Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do
not lean over the motor.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-21-
Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a highfrequency tone. Press the press switch (S2) to lower the frequency b y
increasing the capacitance in the oscillator. Replace the 0.1μF
capacitor (C2) with the 10μF capacitor (C3, “+” on the r ight) to fur ther
lower the frequency of the tone.
Project #539
OBJECTIVE: To make different tones with an oscillator.
Electronic Sound
Project #541
OBJECTIVE: To make a blinking light.
Lighthouse
Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1), the LED (D1) flashes
about once a second.
You can also change the frequency by changing the resistance in the
oscillator. Replace the 100KΩ resistor (R5) with the 10KΩ resistor
(R4), place the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) back in the circuit as before.
OBJECTIVE: To make different tones with an oscillator.
Electronic Sound (II)
Project #540
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-22-
Cover the solar cell (B2) and turn on the slide switch (S1), there should
be little or no light from the LED’s (results depend on your batteries).
Shine a bright light on the solar cell and the red (D1) and green (D2)
LED’s should be bright, along with one segment of the 7-segment
display (D7).
This circuit shows how it takes a lot of voltage to turn on a bunch of
diodes connected in a series. Since the transistors (Q1 & Q2) are
used as diodes here, there are six diodes total (D1, D2, D3, D7, Q1,
and Q2). The voltage from the batteries (B1) alone is not enough to
turn them all on at the same time, but the extra voltage produced by
the solar cell is enough to make them bright.
Now push the press switch (S2) and D7 will display “0.”, but it will be
dim unless the light on the solar cell is very bright. With S2 off, all the
current through D7 goes through segment B and makes it bright. With
S2 on, the current through D7 divides evenly between several
segments.
Project #542
OBJECTIVE: To learn more about diodes.
Diode Wonderland
Project #543
OBJECTIVE: To show the difference between the low and high
current meter ranges.
Meter Ranges
Use the LOW (or 10mA) setting on the meter (M2), turn off the slide
switch (S1), and unscrew the 2.5V bulb (L1). The meter should
measure about 2, since the 100KΩ resistor (R5) keeps the current low.
Results will vary depending on how good your batteries are.
Screw in the 2.5V bulb to add the 10KΩ resistor (R4) to the circuit, now
the meter reading will be about 10.
Change the meter to the high-current HIGH (or 1A) setting. Now turn
on the slide switch to add the 100Ω resistor to the circuit. The meter
should read just above zero.
Now press the switch (S2) to add the speaker (SP) to the circuit. The
meter reading will be about 5, since the speaker has only about 8Ω
resistance.
-23-
Use the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter (M2) and place the fan on the motor (M1). Press the
press switch (S2), the meter will measure a very high current because it takes a lot of power to
spin the fan.
Remove the fan and press the press switch again. The meter reading will be lower since spinning
the motor without the fan takes less power.
Project #544
OBJECTIVE: To measure the motor current.
Motor Current
Project #545
OBJECTIVE: To measure the 2.5V lamp current.
2.5V Lamp Current
Use the circuit from project #544, but replace the motor with the 2.5V lamp (L1). Measure
the current using the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter.
Project #546
OBJECTIVE: To measure the 6V lamp current.
6V Lamp Current
Use the circuit from project #544 but replace the motor with the 6V lamp (L2). Measure
the current using the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter (M2). Compare the lamp
brightness and meter reading to that for the 2.5V lamp (L1).
Project #547
OBJECTIVE: To measure current through the lamps.
Combined Lamp Circuits
Use the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter (M2) and turn on the slide
switch (S1). Both lamps are on and the meter measures the current.
Now turn on the press switch (S2) to bypass the 2.5V lamp (L1). The
6V lamp (L2) is brighter now, and the meter measures a higher
current.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-24-
Use the LOW (or 10mA) scale on the meter (M2) and turn the slide
switch (S1) off. Vary the current measured on the meter by moving
your hand over the solar cell (B2) to block some of the light to it. If you
cover the solar cell, then the current immediately drops to zero.
Now turn the slide switch on and watch the meter again as you move
your hand over the solar cell. Now the meter current drops slowly if
you block the light to the solar cell. The 470μF capacitor (C5) is acting
like a rechargeable battery. It keeps a current flowing to the meter
when something (such as clouds) blocks light to the solar cell that is
powering the circuit.
Project #548
OBJECTIVE: To show how a capacitor is like a rechargeable
battery.
Rechargeable Battery
Project #549
OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.
Solar Batteries
Place this circuit near different types of lights and press the press
switch (S2). If the light is bright enough, then the LED (D1) will be lit.
Find out what types of light sources make it the brightest.
Solar cells work best with bright sunlight, but incandescent light bulbs
(used in house lamps) also work well. Fluorescent lights (the
overhead lights in offices and schools) do not work as well with solar
cells. Although the voltage produced by your solar cell is 3V just like
the batteries, it cannot supply nearly as much current. If you replace
the LED with the 2.5V lamp (L1) then it will not light, because the lamp
needs a much higher current.
The solar cell (B2) is made from silicon crystals. It uses the energy in
sunlight to make an electric current. Solar cells produce electricity that
will last as long as the sun is bright. They are pollution-free and never
wear out.
To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.
-25-
Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1). If there is sunlight
on the solar cell (B2), then the LED (D1) and lamp (L1) will be on.
This circuit uses the solar cell to light the LED and to control the lamp.
The solar cell does not produce enough power to run the lamp directly.
You can replace the lamp with the motor (M1, “+” side on top) and fan;
the motor will spin if there is sunlight on the solar cell.
Project #550
OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.
Solar Control
Place the circuit near a bright light and set the adjustable resistor (RV) so that
the meter (M2) reads “10” on the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Now replace the 3snap between points A & B with another component to test, such as a resistor,
capacitor, motor, photoresistor, or lamp. The 100μF (C4) or 470μF (C5)
capacitors will give a high reading that slowly drops to zero.
You can also use the two-spring socket (?1) and place your own components
between its springs to test them.
Project #551
OBJECTIVE: To test the resistance of your components.
Solar Resistance Meter
OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.
Solar Diode Tester
Use the same circuit to test the red and green LED’s (D1 & D2), and the diode
(D3). The diode will give a higher meter reading than the LED’s, and all three
will block current in one direction.
Project #552
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.
-26-
Project #553
OBJECTIVE: To test your NPN transistor.
Solar NPN Transistor
Tester
This circuit is just like the one in project #551, but tests the NPN
transistor (Q2). The meter will read zero unless both switches (S1 &
S2) are on, then the adjustable resistor (RV) sets the current. If you
have the same light and RV setting as project #552 with the diode
(D3), then the meter (M2) reading will be higher with the transistor.
You can replace the NPN transistor with the SCR (Q3), it works the
same way in this circuit.
Project #554
OBJECTIVE: To test your PNP transistor.
Solar PNP Transistor
Tester
This circuit is just like the one in project #551, but tests the PNP
transistor (Q1). The meter (M2) will read zero unless both switches
(S1 & S2) are on, then the adjustable resistor (RV) sets the current. If
you have the same light and RV setting as project #552 with the diode
(D3), then the meter reading will be higher with the transistor.
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