Elenco Projects 512-692 User Manual

Copyright © 2012, 2010 by Elenco®Electronics, Inc., all rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced by 753292 any means; electronic, photocopying, or otherwise without written permission from the publisher.

REV-E Revised 2012

Project 526

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Table of Contents

Basic T roubleshooting 1 Parts List 2 About the Two-Spring Socket (?1) 3

About Your Snap Circuits®Parts 4

Advanced T roub leshooting 4

DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits 5 Project Listings 6, 7 Projects 512-692 8 - 84 Other Fun Elenco®Products 85 - 86

1. Most circuit problems are due to incorrect assembly. Always double-check that your circuit exactly matches the drawing for it.

2. Be sure that parts with positive/negative markings are positioned as per the drawing.

3. Be sure that all connections are securely snapped.

4. Try replacing the batteries.

5. If the motor spins but does not balance the fan, check the black plastic piece with three prongs on the motor shaft. Be sure that it is at the top of the shaft.

Elenco

is not responsible for parts damaged due to

incorrect wiring.

Basic T roub leshooting

Note: If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can

follow the Advanced Troubleshooting procedure on page 4 to determine which ones need replacing.

Review of How To Use It (See page 3 of the Projects 1-101 manual for more details.)

The Snap Circuits®kit uses building blocks with snaps to build the different electrical and electronic circuits in the projects. These blocks are in different colors and have numbers on them so that you can easily identify them. The circuit you will build is shown in color and with numbers, identifying the blocks that you will use and snap together to form a circuit.

Next to each part in every circuit drawing is a small number in black. This tells you which level the component is placed at. Place all parts on level 1 first,

then all of the parts on level 2, then all of the parts on level 3, etc.

A large clear plastic base grid is included with this kit to help keep the circuit block together. The base has rows labeled A-G and columns labeled 1-10.

Install two (2) “AA” batteries (not included) in the battery holder (B1). The 2.5V and 6V bulbs come packaged separate from their sockets. Install the 2.5V bulb in the L1 lamp socket, and the 6V bulb in the L2 lamp socket.

Place the fan on the motor (M1) whenever that part is used, unless the project you are building says not to use it.

Some circuits use the red and black jumper wires to make unusual connections. Just clip them to the metal snaps or as indicated.

Note: While building the projects, be careful not to accidentally make a direct connection across the battery holder (a “short circuit”), as this may damage and/or quickly drain the batteries.

WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD -

Never connect Snap Circuits®to the electrical outlets in your home in any way!

WARNING FOR ALL PROJECTS WITH A SYMBOL

Moving parts. Do not touch the motor or fan during operation. Do not lean over the motor. Do not launch the fan at people, animals, or objects. Eye protection is recommended.

WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD-

Small parts. Not for children under 3 years.

Batteries:

• Use only 1.5V AA type, alkaline batteries (not included).

• Insert batteries with correct polarity.

• Non-rechargeable batteries should not be recharged. Rechargeable batteries should only be charged under adult supervision, and should not be recharged while in the product.

• Do not mix alkaline, standard (carbonzinc), or rechargeable (nickel-cadmium) batteries.

• Do not mix old and new batteries.

• Remove batteries when they are used up.

• Do not short circuit the battery terminals.

• Never throw batteries in a fire or attempt to open its outer casing.

• Batteries are harmful if swallowed, so keep away from small children.

• Do not connect batteries or battery holders in parallel.

WARNING: Always check your wiring before

turning on a circuit. Never leave a circuit unattended while the batteries are installed. Never connect additional batteries or any other power sources to your circuits. Discard any cracked or broken parts.

Adult Supervision: Because children’s abilities

ary so much, even with age groups, adults should exercise discretion as to which experiments are suitable and safe (the instructions should enable supervising adults to establish the experiment’s suitability for the child). Make sure your child reads and follows all of the relevant instructions and safety procedures, and keeps them at hand for reference.

This product is intended for use by adults and children who have attained sufficient maturity to read and follow directions and warnings.

Never modify your parts, as doing so may disable important safety features in them, and could put your child at risk of injury.

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Note: There are additional part lists in your other project manuals. Part designs are subject to change without notice.

Important: If any parts are missing or damaged, DO NOT RETURN TO RETAILER. Call toll-free (800) 533-2441 or e-mail us at:

help@elenco.com. Customer Ser vice • 150 Car penter Ave. • Wheeling, IL 60090 U.S.A.

Parts List (Colors and styles may vary) Symbols and Numbers

Qty. ID Name Symbol Par t #

r 1

Solar Cell 6SCB2

r 1 r 1

Electromagnet Iron Core Rod

6SCM3

6SCM3B

r 1

Vibration Switch 6SCS4

r 1

Bag of Paperclips 6SCM3P

r 1

Two-spring Socket

6SCPY1

You may order additional / replacement parts at our website: www.snapcircuits.net

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The two-spring socket (?1) just has two springs, and won’t do anything by itself. It is not used in any of the experiments. It was included to make it easy to connect other electronic components to your Snap Circuits

. It should only be used b y adv anced users who

are creating their own circuits. There are many different types of electronic components and basic

parts like resistors and capacitors have a wide range of available values. For example, Snap Circuits

includes five fixed-value resistors (100Ω, 1KΩ, 5.1KΩ, 10KΩ, and 100KΩ). This is a very limited choice of values, and difficult to design circuits with. Snap Circuits

also includes a adjustable resistor (RV), but it is difficult to set this part to a par ticular value. You can place your resistors in series and parallel to make different values (as is done with the

5.1KΩ and 10KΩ in project #166), but this is also difficult with only five values to choose from.

Many customers like to create their own circuits and asked us to include more resistor values with Snap Circuits

. We could have done that, but you would never hav e enough. And resistors are not very exciting components by themselv es. You could try to use your own resistors, but they are difficult to connect since normal electronic parts come with wires on them instead of snaps.

The two-spring socket (?1) makes it easy to connect your own resistors (and other parts) to circuits by connecting them between the springs:

Any component with two wires coming from it (called leads) can be connected with the two-spring socket (?1), assuming the leads are long enough. Usually you will connect different values of resistors or capacitors, but other components like LED’s, diodes, or coils/inductors can also be used. You can usually find electronic components at any store specializing in electronics.

You can design your own circuits or substitute new parts into the projects in the manuals. For LED’s, diodes, or electrolytic capacitors, be sure to connect your parts using the correct polarity or you may damage them. Never exceed the v oltage r atings of an y parts. Never connect to external voltage sources. ELENCO

IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY PARTS DAMAGED BY IMPROPER CIRCUIT DESIGN OR WIRING. The two-spring

socket is only intended for advanced users.

About the TWO-SPRING SOCKET (?1)

Resistor Capacitor

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

Elenco®is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.

If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can follow this procedure to systematically determine which ones need replacing:

1 - 28. Refer to the other project manuals for testing steps 1-28, then continue below.

29. Solar Cell (B2): Build the mini-circuit shown here and set the meter (M2) to the LO

W (or 10mA) setting. Hold the circuit near a lamp and the meter pointer should move.

30. Electromagnet (M3): Build the mini-circuit sho

wn here. Lamp (L1) must be dim, and must get brighter when you press the press switch (S2).

31. Vibration Switch (S4): Build the mini-circuit sho

wn here and shake the base grid. The LED

should go on and off as you shake.

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The solar cell (B2) contains positively and negatively charged silicon crystals, arranged in layers that cancel each other out. When sunlight shines on it, charged particles in the light unbalance the silicon layers and produce an electrical voltage (about 3V). The maximum current depends on how the type of light and its brightness, but will be much less than a battery can supply. Bright sunlight works best, but incandescent light bulbs also work.

The electromagnet (M3) is a large coil of wire, which acts lik

e a magnet when a current flows through it. Placing an iron bar inside increases the magnetic effects. Note that magnets can erase magnetic media like floppy discs.

When shaken, the vibraton switch (S4) contains two separ

ate contacts; and a spring is connected to one of them. A vibration causes the spring to move, briefly connecting the two contacts.

The two-spring socket (?1) is described on page 3.

Advanced T roubleshooting (Adult supervision recommended)

About Y our

Snap Circuits®Parts

(Note: There is additional information in your other project manuals).

A Note on Sun Power

The sun produces heat and light on an immense scale, by transforming Hydrogen gas into Helium gas. This “transformation” is a thermonuclear reaction, similar to the explosion of a Hydrogen bomb. The earth is protected from most of this heat and radiation by being so far a w ay, and by its atmosphere. But e v en here the sun still has power, since it can spin the motor on your kit and give you sunburn on a hot day.

Nearly all of the energy in any form on the surface of the earth originally came from the sun. Plants get energy for growth from the sun using a process called photosynthesis. People and animals get energy for growth by eating plants (and other animals). Fossil fuels such as oil and coal that power most of our society are the decayed remains of plants from long ago. These fuels exist in large but limited quantity, and are rapidly being consumed. Solar cells will produce electricity as long as the sun is bright, and will have an ever-increasing effect on our lives.

Our Student Guides give much more information about your parts, along with a complete lesson in basic electronics. See www.snapcircuits.net/learn.htm for more information.

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DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits

After building the circuits given in this booklet, you may wish to experiment on your own. Use the projects in this booklet as a guide, as many important design concepts are introduced throughout them. Every circuit will include a power source (the batteries), a resistance (which might be a resistor, lamp, motor, integrated circuit, etc.), and wiring paths between them and back. You must be careful not to create “short

circuits”

(very low-resistance paths across the batteries, see examples below) as this will damage components and/or quickly drain your batteries. Only connect the IC’s

using configurations given in the projects, incorrectly doing so may damage them.

Elenco

is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.

Here are some important guidelines:

ALWAYS

USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN EXPERIMENTING ON YOUR OWN.

ALWAYS

include at least one component that will limit the current through a circuit, such as the speaker, lamp, whistle chip, capacitors, ICs (which must be connected properly), motor, microphone, photo resistor, or fixed resistors.

ALWAYS

use the 7-segment display, LED’s, transistors, the high frequency IC, the

SCR, the antenna, and switches in conjunction with other components

that will limit the current through them. Failure to do so will create a

short circuit and/or damage those par ts.

ALWAYS

connect the adjustable resistor so that if set to its 0 setting, the current will be limited by other components in the circuit.

ALWAYS

connect position capacitors so that the “+” side gets the higher voltage.

ALWAYS

disconnect your batteries immediately and check your wiring if something appears to be getting hot.

ALWAYS

check your wiring before turning on a circuit.

ALWAYS

connect ICs, the FM module, and the SCR using configurations given in the projects or as per the connection descriptions for the parts.

NEVER

try to use the high frequency IC as a transistor (the packages are similar, but the parts are different).

NEVER

use the 2.5V lamp in a circuit with both battery holders unless you are sure that the voltage across it will be limited.

NEVER

connect to an electrical outlet in your home in any way.

NEVER

leave a circuit unattended when it is turned on.

NEVER

touch the motor when it is spinning at high speed.

For all of the projects given in this book, the parts may be arranged in different ways without changing the circuit. For example, the order of parts connected in series or in parallel does not matter — what matters is how combinations of these sub-circuits are arranged together.

Examples of SHORT CIRCUITS - NEVER DO THESE!!!

You are encouraged to tell us about new circuits you create. If they are unique, we will post them with your name and state on our website at www.snapcircuits.net/kidkreations.htm. Send your suggestions to ELENCO

Elenco®provides a circuit designer so that you can make your own Snap Circuits®drawings. This Microsoft®Word document can be downloaded from www.snapcircuits.net/SnapDesigner.doc or through the

www.snapcircuits.net web site.

WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD - Ne

ver connect Snap Circuits®to

the electrical outlets in your home in any way!

Placing a 3-snap wire directly across the batteries is a SHORT CIRCUIT.

This is also a

SHORT CIRCUIT.

When the slide switch (S1) is turned on, this large circuit has a SHORT CIRCUIT path (as shown by the arrows). The short circuit prevents any other portions of the circuit from ever working.

NEVER

DO!

Warning to Snap Rover owners: Do not connect y our parts to the

Rover body except when using our approved circuits, the Rover body has a higher voltage which could damage your parts.

NEVER

DO!

NEVER

DO!

NEVER

DO!

Project # Description Page #

512 Siren 8 513 Electronic Rain 8 514 Leaky Faucet 9 515 Lamp & Fan Independent 9 516 Drawing Resistors 10 517 Electronic Kazoo 11 518 Electronic Kazoo (II) 11 519 Water Resistor 12 520 Two-Transistor Oscillator 12 521 Diode 13 522 Rectifier 13 523 Motor Rectifier 14 524 SCR Shutdown 14 525 SCR Motor Control 15 526 Output Forms 15 527 Transistor AM Radio 16 528 Adjustable Solar Power Meter 16 529 Fan Blade Storing Energy 17 530 Antenna Storing Energy 17 531 Electromagnet Storing Energy 17 532 Transformer Storing Energy 18 533 Relay Storing Energy 18 534 Transformer Lights 18 535 Machine Siren 19 536 Hear the Motor 19 537 Back EMF 20 538 Back EMF (II) 20 539 Electronic Sound 21 540 Electronic Sound (II) 21 541 Lighthouse 21 542 Diode Wonderland 22 543 Meter Ranges 22 544 Motor Current 23 545 2.5V Lamp Current 23

Project # Description Page #

546 6V Lamp Current 23 547

Combined Lamp Circuits 23 548 Rechargeable Battery 24 549 Solar Batteries 24 550 Solar Control 25 551 Solar Resistance Meter 25 552 Solar Diode Tester 25 553 Solar NPN T ransistor Tester 26 554 Solar PNP T ransistor Tester 26 555 Solar Cell vs. Battery 27 556 Solar Cell vs. Battery (II) 27 557 Solar Music 28 558 Solar Sounds Combo 28 559 Solar Alarm 29 560 Better Solar Alarm 29 561 Photo Solar Alarm 30 562 Solar Space War 30 563 Solar Music Alarm Combo 31 564 Solar Music Space War Combo 31 565

Solar Music Space War Combo (II)

31 566 Solar Periodic Lights 32 567 Solar Periodic Lights (II) 32 568 Solar AM Radio Transmitter 32 569 Low Light Noisemaker 33 570 Low Light Noisemaker (II) 33 571 Low Light Noisemaker (III) 33 572 Solar Oscillator 34 573 Solar Oscillator (II) 34 574 Daylight SCR Lamp 34 575 Solar Bird Sounds 35 576 Solar Bird Sounds (II) 35 577 SCR Solar Bomb Sounds 36 578

Flashing Laser LED’s with Sound

36 579 U2 with Transistor Amplifier 37

Project # Description Page #

580 U2 with Transistor Amplifier (II) 37 581

U1 with Transistor Amplifier 37 582 Loud Sounds 38 583 Swinging Meter with Sound 38 584 Motor Sound Using Transformer 39 585 Motor Sound with LED 39 586 Motor Sound with LED (II) 39 587 AC & DC Current 40 588 Noisemaker 40 589 AC Voltage 41 590 AC Voltage (II) 41 591 AC Voltage (III) 42 592 Noisemaker (II) 42 593 Noisemaker (III) 43 594 Pulsing Motor 43 595 Noisemaker (IV) 44 596 Noisemaker (V) 44 597 Noisemaker (VI) 44 598 Noisemaker (VII) 44 599 Noisemaker (VIII) 44 600 Noisemaker (IX) 44 601 Alarm Power 45 602 Alarm Power (II) 45 603 Night Sounds 45 604 Mega Pulser and Flasher 46 605 “E” & “S” Blinker 46 606 “2” & “3” Blinker 47 607 “9” & “0” Blinker 47 608 “3” & “6” Blinker 48 609 “c” & “C” Blinker 48 610 “O” & “o” Blinker 49 611 “b” & “d” Blinker 49 612 “H” & “L” Blinker 50 613 “A” & “o” Blinker 50

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Project Listings

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Project # Description Page #

614 Open & Closed Indicator 51 615 Open & Closed Indicator (II) 51 616 Vibration Indicator 51 617 Vibration Sounder 52 618 SCR Noise Circuit 52 619 SCR & Transistor Switch 53 620 Two-speed Motor 53 621 Two-speed Motor (II) 54 622 Current Flow 54 623 AM Radio with Power LED’s 55 624 Space War IC Recording 55 625 LED Flasher 56 626 LED Flasher with Sound 56 627 LED Flasher with Sound (II) 56 628 Stepper Motor 57 629 Crazy Music IC 57 630 Stepper Motor w/ Sound 58 631 Stepper Motor w/ Light 58 632 Police Siren with Display 58 633 Oscillator Alarm 59 634 Oscillator Alarm (II) 59 635 Tapping U3 59 636 Tapping U3 (II) 59 637 Adjustable Beeper 60 638 Electronic Meow 60 639 Electronic Meow (II) 60 640 Strobe Light 61 641 AND Gate 61 642 NAND Gate 62 643 OR Gate 62 644 NOR Gate 63 645 XOR Gate 63 646 High Pitch Oscillator 64 647 Low Pitch Oscillator 64

Project # Description Page #

648 Low Pitch Oscillator (II) 64 649

Low Pitch Oscillator (III) 64 650 Segment Jumper 65 651 DP & Zero Flasher 65 652

Stepper Motor with Lamp & LED’s

66 653 IC Start & Stop 66 654 IC Motor Speed 67 655 Sound & Light Flasher 67 656 Electromagnet Delayer 68 657 Electromagnet Delayer (II) 68 658 Two-Lamp Electromagnet

Delayer 69 659 Electromagnet Current 69 660 Electromagnetism 70 661 Electromagnetism & Compass 70 662 Electromagnetism & Paperclips 71 663 Electromagnet Suction 71 664 Electromagnet Tower 72 665 Paperclip Compass 72 666 Adjustable Paperclip

Suspension 73 667 Adjustable Paperclip w/ Delay 73 668 Photoresistor Paperclip

Suspension 74 669 Paperclip Oscillator 74 670 Paperclip Oscillator (II) 75 671 Paperclip Oscillator (III) 75 672 Paperclip Oscillator (IV) 76 673 Paperclip Oscillator (V) 76 674 Oscillating Compass 76 675 High Frequency Vibrator 77 676 High Frequency Vibrator (II) 77 677 Siren Paperclip Vibrator 78 678 Alarm Paperclip Vibrator 78

Project # Description Page #

679 Machine Gun Paperclip

Vibr

ator 78 680 Alarm Vibrator w/ LED 79 681 Alarm Vibrator w/ LED (II) 79 682 Relay-Whistle Vibrator 80 683 Relay-Whistle Photo Vibrator 80 684 Vibration LED 81 685 Vibration Speaker 81 686 Measure the Vibration as You

Tap the Switch 81 687 Shaky Birthday Song 82 688 Vibration Detector 82 689 Out of Balance 83 690 Vibration Alarm 83 691 Vibration Space War 84 692 Vibration Light 84

Project Listings

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Project #512

OBJECTIVE: To make a siren that slowly starts up and fades away.

Turn on the slide switch (S1), and then press the press switch (S2) for a few seconds and release. A siren star ts up and then slowly fades away as the 10μF capacitor (C3) discharges.

Siren

Project #513

OBJECTIVE: To make a low-frequency oscillator.

Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a sound like raindrops. The adjustable resistor (RV) controls the rain. Turn it to the left to make a drizzle and turn to the right to make the rain come pouring down.

You can replace the 10KΩ resistor (R4) with the 1KΩ (R2) or 5.1KΩ (R3) resistors to speed up the rain.

Electronic Rain

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This circuit was suggested by

Luke S. of Westborough, MA.

Project #514

OBJECTIVE: To make a low-frequency oscillator.

Build the circuit and set the adjustable resistor (R V) control all the way to the right. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and you hear a sound like a faucet dripping. You can speed up the dripping by moving the adjustable resistor control around.

Leaky Faucet

Project #515

OBJECTIVE: To show how switches allow circuits to operate independently even though they have the same power source.

This circuit combines projects #1, #2, and #6 into one circuit. Build the circuit and place the fan on the motor (M1). Depending on

which of the switches (S1 & S2) are on, you can turn on either the lamp (project #1), the motor (project #2), or both together (project #6).

Lamp & Fan

Independent

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-10-

OBJECTIVE: To make your own resistors.

You need some more parts to do this experiment, so you’re going to draw them. Take a pencil (No. 2 lead is best but other types will also work), SHARPEN IT, and fill in the 4 rectangles you see below. You will get better results if you place a hard, flat surface between this page and the rest of this booklet while you are drawing. Press hard (but don’t rip the paper) and fill in each several times to be sure you have a thick, even layer of pencil lead and try to avoid going out of the boundaries.

Actually, your pencils aren’t made out of lead anymore (although we still call them “lead pencils”). The “lead” in your pencils is really a form of carbon, the same material that resistors are made of. So the drawings you just made should act just like the resistors in Snap Circuits

Build the circuit shown, it is the same basic oscillator circuit you have been using. Touch the the loose ends of the jumper wires to opposite ends of the rectangles you drew, you should hear a sound like an alarm. Note: You may get better electrical contact between the wires and the drawings if you wet the metal with a few drops of water or saliva.

Making the drawn resistors longer should increase the resistance while making them wider should reduce the resistance. So all 4 rectangles should produce the same sound, though you will see variations due to how thick and evenly you filled in the rectangles, and exactly where you touch the wires. If your 4 shapes don’t sound similar then try improving your drawings.

Be sure to wash your hands after this project.

Shapes to be drawn.

Use a SHARP No. 2 pencil, draw on a hard surface, press hard and fill in

several times for best results.

Project #516 Drawing Resistors

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Shape to be drawn.

Use a SHARP No. 2 pencil, draw on a hard surface, press hard and fill in

several times for best results.

Use the same circuit as project #516, but draw a new shape. A Kazoo is a musical instrument that is like a one-note flute, and you change the pitch (frequency) of the sound by moving a plunger up and down inside a tube.

As before, take a pencil (No. 2 lead is best but other types will also work), SHARPEN IT again, and fill in the shape you see below. For best results, SHARPEN IT again, place a hard flat surface between this page and the rest of this booklet while you are drawing. Press hard (but don’t rip the paper). Fill in eac h se veral times to be sure you have a thick, even layer of pencil lead, and try to avoid going out of the boundaries. Where the shape is just a line, draw a thick line and go

over it several times. The black ink in this manual is an insulator just like paper, so you have to write over it with your pencil.

Take one loose wire and touch it to the widest part of this shape, at the upper left. Take the other loose wire and touch it just to the right of the first wire. You should hear a high-pitch sound. How do you think the sound will change as you slide the second wire to the right? Do it, slowly sliding all the way around to the end. The sound changes from high frequency to low frequency, just like a kazoo. Note: You may get better electrical contact between the wires and the drawings if you wet the wires with a few drops of water or saliva.

Shape to be drawn.

Use a SHARP No. 2 pencil, draw on a hard surface, press hard and fill in

several times for best results.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Project #517 Electronic Kazoo

Project #518

Electronic Kazoo (II)

Use the same circuit as project #516, but fill in the new shape shown here.

Take one loose jumper wire and touch it to the left circle. Take the other loose wire and touch it to each of the other circles. The various circles produce different pitches in the sound, like notes. Since the circles are like keys on a piano, you now have an electronic keyboard! See what kind of music you can play with it. Note: You may get better electrical contact between the wires and the drawings if you wet the wires with a few drops of water or saliva.

Now take one loose wire and touch it to the right circle (#11). Take the other wire and touch it to the circles next to the numbers shown below, in order:

7 - 5 - 1 - 5 - 7 - 7 - 7 5 - 5 - 5 7 - 7 - 7 7 - 5 - 1 - 5 - 7 - 7 - 7 - 7 - 5 - 5 - 7 - 5 - 1

Do you recognize this nursery rhyme? It is “Mary Had a Little Lamb”. By now you see that you can draw any shape you like and make electronic sounds with it. Experiment on your own as much as you like. Be sure to wash your hands after this test.

-12-

Use the same circuit as project #516. T ak e the two loose jumper wires and touch them with your fingers. You should hear a low-frequency sound. Now place the loose jumpers in a cup of water without them touching each other. The sound will have a much higher frequency because drinking water has lower resistance than your body. You can change the sound by adding or removing water from the cup. If you add salt to the water then you will notice the frequency increase, because dissolving salt lowers the resistance of the water.

You can also make a water kazoo. Pour a small amount of water on a table or the floor and spread it with your finger into a long line. Place one of the jumper wires at one end and slide the other along the water. You should get an effect just like the kazoo you drew with the pencil, though the frequency will probably be different.

Project #519

OBJECTIVE: To use water as a resistor.

Water Resistor

Project #520

OBJECTIVE: To make an adjustable low-frequency oscillator.

Build the circuit, turn on the slide switch (S1), and then press the press switch (S2). Move the control lever of the adjustable resistor (RV) to change the frequency.

Two-Transistor

Oscillator

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-13-

Turn on the slide switch (S1), the lamp (L2) will be bright and the LED (D1) will be lit. The diode (D3) allows the batteries to charge up the 470μF capacitor (C5) and light the LED.

Turn off the slide switch, the lamp will go dark immediately but the LED will stay lit for a few seconds as capacitor C5 discharges through it. The diode isolates the capacitor from the lamp; if y ou replace the diode with a 3-snap wire then the lamp will drain the capacitor almost instantly.

Project #521

OBJECTIVE: To show how a diode works.

Diode

Project #522

OBJECTIVE: To build a rectifier.

Rectifier

This circuit is based on the Trombone project #238. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and set the adjustable resistor (RV) for mid-range for the best sound. The LED (D1) will also be lit.

The signal from the power amplifier (U4) to the speaker (SP) is a changing (AC) voltage, not the constant (DC) voltage needed to light the LED. The diode (D3) and capacitor (C5) are a rectifier, which converts the AC voltage into a DC voltage.

The diode allows the capacitor to charge up when the power amp voltage is high, but also prevents the capacitor from discharging when the power amp voltage is low. If you replace the diode with a 3-snap or remove the capacitor from the circuit, the LED will not light.

-14-

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Place the fan on the motor (M1) and turn on the slide switch (S1), the meter measures the current on the other side of the transformer (T1).

As the DC voltage from the battery (B1) spins the motor, the motor creates an AC ripple in the voltage. This ripple passes through the transformer using magnetism. The diode and 0.1μF capacitor (C2) “rectify” the AC ripple into the DC current that the meter measures.

Holding down the press switch (S2) connects the 470μF capacitor (C5) across the motor. This filters out the AC ripple, so the current through the meter is greatly reduced but the motor speed is not affected.

Project #523

OBJECTIVE: To show how what a rectifier does.

Motor Rectifier

Project #524

OBJECTIVE: To show how an SCR works.

SCR Shutdown

In this circuit the press switch (S2) controls an SCR (Q3), which controls a transistor (Q2), which controls an LED (D1). Set the adjustable resistor (RV) control lever to the top (toward the press switch).

Turn on the slide switch (S1); nothing happens. Press and release the press switch; the SCR, transistor, and LED turn on and stay on. Now move the adjustable resistor control down until the LED turns off. Press and release the press switch again; this time the LED comes on but goes off after you release the press switch.

If the current through an SCR (anode-to-cathode) is above a threshold level, then the SCR stays on. In this circuit you can set the adjustable resistor so that the SCR (and the LED it controls) just barely stays on or shuts off.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

-15-

SCR’s are often used to control the speed of a motor. The voltage to the gate would be a stream of pulses, and the pulses are made wider to increase the motor speed.

Place the fan on the motor (M1) and turn on the slide switch (S1). The motor spins and the lamp (L2) lights. Wave your hand over the photoresistor (RP) to control how much light shines on it, this will adjust the speed of the motor. By moving your hand in a repetitive motion, you should be able spin the motor at a slow and steady speed.

Project #525

OBJECTIVE: To show how an SCR is used.

SCR Motor Control

Project #526

OBJECTIVE: To show the different types of output from Snap Circuits®.

Output Forms

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. This circuit uses all six forms of output available in Snap Circuits

- speaker (SP, sound), lamp (L1, light), LED (D1, light), motor (M1, motion), 7-segment display (D7, light), and meter (M2, motion of pointer).

Place the fan on the motor, turn on the slide switch (S1), and shine light on the solar cell (B2). There will be activity from all six forms of output. If the motor does not spin, then give it a push with your finger to start it, or remove the fan.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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This AM radio circuit uses a transistor (Q2) in the amplifier that drives the speaker (SP). T urn on the slide switch (S1) and adjust the variable capacitor (CV) for a radio station, then adjust the loudness using the adjustable resistor (RV).

Project #527

OBJECTIVE: To show the output of an AM radio.

Transistor AM Radio

Project #528

OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.

Adjustable Solar

Power Meter

Set the adjustable resistor (RV) for mid-range and the meter (M2) for the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and let light shine on the solar cell (B2). Move the solar cell around different light sources and adjust the adjustable resistor to change the reading on the meter.

Place your hand to cover half of the solar cell, the meter reading should drop by half. When you reduce the light to the solar cell, the current in the circuit is reduced.

Place a sheet of paper over the solar cell and see how much it changes the reading on the meter. Then add more sheets until the meter reads zero.

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Turn on the slide switch (S1); nothing happens. Turn the switch off; the LED (D1) flashes.

When you turn on the switch, the electromagnet (M3) stores energy from the batteries (B1) into a magnetic field. When you turn off the switch, the magnetic field collapses and the energy from it discharges through the LED.

Modify project #529 by replacing the motor (M1) with the antenna coil (A1). Hold down the press switch (S2) and then watch the LED (D1) as you release the press switch. The LED lights briefly but only after the batteries (B2) are disconnected from the circuit.

This circuit is different from the Fan Blade Storing Energy project because energy in the antenna coil is stored in a magnetic field. When the press switch is released, this field creates a brief current through the LED.

Note that the energy stored in a magnetic field acts like mechanical momentum, unlike capacitors which store energy as an electrical charge across a material. You can replace the antenna with any of the capacitors but the LED will not light. Energy stored in the magnetic fields of coils was called electrical momentum in the early days of electronics.

Antenna Storing

Energy

Project #529

OBJECTIVE: To show that the fan blade stores energy.

Fan Blade Storing Energy

Project #531

OBJECTIVE: To show that the antenna stores energy.

Electromagnet Storing Energy

Place the fan on the motor (M1). Hold down the press switch (S2) for a few seconds and then watch the LED (D1) as you release the press switch. The LED lights briefly but only after the batteries (B1) are disconnected from the circuit.

Do you know why the LED lights? It lights because the mechanical energy stored in the fan blade makes the motor act like a generator. When the press switch is released, this energy creates a brief current through the LED. If you remove the fan blade from the circuit then the LED will never light, because the motor shaft alone does not store enough mechanical energy.

If you rev erse the motor direction, then the LED will light the same wa y, but the fan may fly off after the LED lights.

This circuit was suggested by

Mike D. of Woodhaven, NY.

Project #530

OBJECTIVE: To show that the electromagnet stores energy.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

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Watch the LED’s (D1 & D2) as you press or release the press switch (S2). The red LED (D1) lights briefly just as you press the press switch and the green LED (D2) lights briefly just after you release it, but neither lights while you hold the press switch down. Why?

When you press the press switch, a surge of current from the battery charges a magnetic field in the transformer (T1), which stays constant as the press switch is held down. Charging the magnetic field induces an opposing current on the other side of the transformer, which lights the red LED until the

magnetic fields stabilize. When you release the press switch (removing the

current from the battery), the magnetic field discharges. Initially the transformer tries to maintain the magnetic field by inducing a current on the other side, which lights the green LED until the resistor (R1) absorbs the remaining energy.

Note that this project is different from the Antenna Storing Energy project because there is a magnetic connection across the transformer, not an electrical connection.

Modify project #532 by replacing the transformer (T1) with the relay (S3), position it with the 3-snap sides to top and right (as in project #341).

Hold down the press switch (S2) and then watch the LED (D1) as you release the press switch. The LED lights briefly but only after the batteries (B1) are disconnected from the circuit.

The relay has a coil similar to the one in the transformer, and stores energy in the same way.

Relay Storing

Energy

Project #532

OBJECTIVE: To show that the transformer stores electrical energy.

Transformer Storing Energy

Project #534

OBJECTIVE: To show how the transformer works.

Transformer Lights

Hold down the press switch (S2) and then watch the LED (D1) as you release the press switch. The LED lights briefly but only after the batteries (B1) are disconnected from the circuit.

This circuit is similar to the Antenna Storing Energy project, and shows how the coils in the transformer (T1) also store energy in magnetic fields. When the press switch is released, this energy creates a brief current through the LED.

Project #533

This circuit is based

on one suggested by

Mike D. of

Woodhaven, NY.

OBJECTIVE: To show that the relay stores energy.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Project #535

Project #536

OBJECTIVE: To show how a motor works.

Hear the Motor

Place the fan on the motor (M1). Press the press switch (S2) and listen to the motor. Why does the motor make sound?

A motor uses magnetism to convert electrical energy into mechanical spinning motion. As the motor shaft spins around it connects/ disconnects several sets of electrical contacts to give the best magnetic properties. As these contacts are switched, an electrical disturbance is created, which the speaker converts into sound.

This circuit was suggested by Andrew M.

of Cochrane, Alberta, Canada

Turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a strange sound from the speaker (SP). Push the press switch (S2) and the sound changes to a high-pitch siren.

The alarm IC (U2) produces a smooth siren sound, but the electromagnet (M3) distorts the siren into the strange sound you hear. Adding the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) counters the electromagnet effects and restores the siren.

OBJECTIVE: To see how the electromagnet can change the sound from the alarm IC.

Machine Siren

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

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The voltage produced by a motor when it is spinning is called its

Back

Electro-Motive-Force

(Back EMF); this may be thought of as the

motor’s electrical resistance. The motor’s

Front Electro-Motive-Force

is the force it exerts in trying to spin the shaft. This circuit demonstrates how the Back EMF increases and the current decreases as the motor speeds up.

Place the fan on the motor (M1) and turn on the slide switch (S1). The 6V bulb (L2) will be bright, indicating that the Back EMF is low and the current is high.

Turn off the slide switch, remove the fan, and turn the slide switch back on. The lamp is bright when the motor starts and the lamp dims as the motor speeds up. Now the Back EMF is high and the current is low. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE MOTOR WHILE IT SPINS.

Project #537

OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate how the motor works.

Back EMF

Project #538

OBJECTIVE:

To demonstrate how the motor draws more current

to exert greater force when spinning slowly.

Back EMF (II)

Place the fan on the motor (M1). Connect the photoresistor (RP) with the jumper wires as shown, and hold it next to the 6V lamp (L2) so the light shines on it.

Turn on the slide switch (S1) and watch how the 6V lamp is bright at first, but gets dim as the motor speeds up. By moving the photoresistor (RP) next to or away from the 6V lamp, you should be able to change the motor speed. To slow the motor down even more, cover the photoresistor.

When the photoresistor is held next to the 6V lamp, tr ansistor Q2 (with lamp L1) will try to keep the motor at a constant speed.

WARNING: Moving parts.

Do not touch the fan or motor during operation. Do not lean over the motor.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

-21-

Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1), you hear a highfrequency tone. Press the press switch (S2) to lower the frequency b y increasing the capacitance in the oscillator. Replace the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) with the 10μF capacitor (C3, “+” on the r ight) to fur ther lower the frequency of the tone.

Project #539

OBJECTIVE: To make different tones with an oscillator.

Electronic Sound

Project #541

OBJECTIVE: To make a blinking light.

Lighthouse

Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1), the LED (D1) flashes about once a second.

You can also change the frequency by changing the resistance in the oscillator. Replace the 100KΩ resistor (R5) with the 10KΩ resistor (R4), place the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) back in the circuit as before.

OBJECTIVE: To make different tones with an oscillator.

Electronic Sound (II)

Project #540

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Cover the solar cell (B2) and turn on the slide switch (S1), there should be little or no light from the LED’s (results depend on your batteries). Shine a bright light on the solar cell and the red (D1) and green (D2) LED’s should be bright, along with one segment of the 7-segment display (D7).

This circuit shows how it takes a lot of voltage to turn on a bunch of diodes connected in a series. Since the transistors (Q1 & Q2) are used as diodes here, there are six diodes total (D1, D2, D3, D7, Q1, and Q2). The voltage from the batteries (B1) alone is not enough to turn them all on at the same time, but the extra voltage produced by the solar cell is enough to make them bright.

Now push the press switch (S2) and D7 will display “0.”, but it will be dim unless the light on the solar cell is very bright. With S2 off, all the current through D7 goes through segment B and makes it bright. With S2 on, the current through D7 divides evenly between several segments.

Project #542

OBJECTIVE: To learn more about diodes.

Diode Wonderland

Project #543

OBJECTIVE: To show the difference between the low and high current meter ranges.

Meter Ranges

Use the LOW (or 10mA) setting on the meter (M2), turn off the slide switch (S1), and unscrew the 2.5V bulb (L1). The meter should measure about 2, since the 100KΩ resistor (R5) keeps the current low. Results will vary depending on how good your batteries are.

Screw in the 2.5V bulb to add the 10KΩ resistor (R4) to the circuit, now the meter reading will be about 10.

Change the meter to the high-current HIGH (or 1A) setting. Now turn on the slide switch to add the 100Ω resistor to the circuit. The meter should read just above zero.

Now press the switch (S2) to add the speaker (SP) to the circuit. The meter reading will be about 5, since the speaker has only about 8Ω resistance.

-23-

Use the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter (M2) and place the fan on the motor (M1). Press the press switch (S2), the meter will measure a very high current because it takes a lot of power to spin the fan.

Remove the fan and press the press switch again. The meter reading will be lower since spinning the motor without the fan takes less power.

Project #544

OBJECTIVE: To measure the motor current.

Motor Current

Project #545

OBJECTIVE: To measure the 2.5V lamp current.

2.5V Lamp Current

Use the circuit from project #544, but replace the motor with the 2.5V lamp (L1). Measure the current using the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter.

Project #546

OBJECTIVE: To measure the 6V lamp current.

6V Lamp Current

Use the circuit from project #544 but replace the motor with the 6V lamp (L2). Measure the current using the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter (M2). Compare the lamp brightness and meter reading to that for the 2.5V lamp (L1).

Project #547

OBJECTIVE: To measure current through the lamps.

Combined Lamp Circuits

Use the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter (M2) and turn on the slide switch (S1). Both lamps are on and the meter measures the current.

Now turn on the press switch (S2) to bypass the 2.5V lamp (L1). The 6V lamp (L2) is brighter now, and the meter measures a higher current.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

-24-

Use the LOW (or 10mA) scale on the meter (M2) and turn the slide switch (S1) off. Vary the current measured on the meter by moving your hand over the solar cell (B2) to block some of the light to it. If you cover the solar cell, then the current immediately drops to zero.

Now turn the slide switch on and watch the meter again as you move your hand over the solar cell. Now the meter current drops slowly if you block the light to the solar cell. The 470μF capacitor (C5) is acting like a rechargeable battery. It keeps a current flowing to the meter when something (such as clouds) blocks light to the solar cell that is powering the circuit.

Project #548

OBJECTIVE: To show how a capacitor is like a rechargeable battery.

Rechargeable Battery

Project #549

OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.

Solar Batteries

Place this circuit near different types of lights and press the press switch (S2). If the light is bright enough, then the LED (D1) will be lit. Find out what types of light sources make it the brightest.

Solar cells work best with bright sunlight, but incandescent light bulbs (used in house lamps) also work well. Fluorescent lights (the overhead lights in offices and schools) do not work as well with solar cells. Although the voltage produced by your solar cell is 3V just like the batteries, it cannot supply nearly as much current. If you replace the LED with the 2.5V lamp (L1) then it will not light, because the lamp needs a much higher current.

The solar cell (B2) is made from silicon crystals. It uses the energy in sunlight to make an electric current. Solar cells produce electricity that will last as long as the sun is bright. They are pollution-free and never wear out.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-25-

Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1). If there is sunlight on the solar cell (B2), then the LED (D1) and lamp (L1) will be on.

This circuit uses the solar cell to light the LED and to control the lamp. The solar cell does not produce enough power to run the lamp directly. You can replace the lamp with the motor (M1, “+” side on top) and fan; the motor will spin if there is sunlight on the solar cell.

Project #550

OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.

Solar Control

Place the circuit near a bright light and set the adjustable resistor (RV) so that the meter (M2) reads “10” on the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Now replace the 3snap between points A & B with another component to test, such as a resistor, capacitor, motor, photoresistor, or lamp. The 100μF (C4) or 470μF (C5) capacitors will give a high reading that slowly drops to zero.

You can also use the two-spring socket (?1) and place your own components between its springs to test them.

Project #551

OBJECTIVE: To test the resistance of your components.

Solar Resistance Meter

OBJECTIVE: To learn about solar power.

Solar Diode Tester

Use the same circuit to test the red and green LED’s (D1 & D2), and the diode (D3). The diode will give a higher meter reading than the LED’s, and all three will block current in one direction.

Project #552

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

-26-

Project #553

OBJECTIVE: To test your NPN transistor.

Solar NPN Transistor

Tester

This circuit is just like the one in project #551, but tests the NPN transistor (Q2). The meter will read zero unless both switches (S1 & S2) are on, then the adjustable resistor (RV) sets the current. If you have the same light and RV setting as project #552 with the diode (D3), then the meter (M2) reading will be higher with the transistor.

You can replace the NPN transistor with the SCR (Q3), it works the same way in this circuit.

Project #554

OBJECTIVE: To test your PNP transistor.

Solar PNP Transistor

Tester

This circuit is just like the one in project #551, but tests the PNP transistor (Q1). The meter (M2) will read zero unless both switches (S1 & S2) are on, then the adjustable resistor (RV) sets the current. If you have the same light and RV setting as project #552 with the diode (D3), then the meter reading will be higher with the transistor.

-27-

Project #555

OBJECTIVE: To compare the voltage of the solar cell to the battery.

Solar Cell vs. Battery

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Press the press switch (S2) and set the adjustable resistor (RV) so that the meter reads “5”, then release it.

Now turn on the slide switch (S1) and vary the brightness of light to the solar cell (B2). Since the voltage from the batteries (B1) is 3V, if the meter reads higher than “5”, then the solar cell voltage is greater than 3V. If the solar cell voltage is greater and you have rechargeable batteries (in B1), then turning on both switches at the same time will use the solar cell to recharge your batteries.

Project #556

OBJECTIVE: To compare the voltage of the solar cell to the battery.

Solar Cell vs. Battery (II)

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Tur n on the slide switch (S1) and vary the brightness of light to the solar cell (B2). If the meter reads zero, then the battery voltage is higher than the voltage produced by the solar cell.

If the meter reads greater than zero, then the solar cell voltage is higher. If the batteries are rechargeable then the solar cell will recharge them until the voltages are equal.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-28-

Project #557

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make music.

Solar Music

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 7 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the music. When it stops, clap your hands and it should resume.

The meter is used to measure if the solar cell can supply enough current to operate the music IC (U1).

Project #558

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make sounds.

Solar Sounds Combo

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 9 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to sounds from the alarm (U2) and space war (U3) IC’s. Wav e your hand over the photoresistor (RP) to change the sounds.

The meter is used to measure if the solar cell can supply enough current to operate the alarm and space war IC’s. This project needs more light than project #557, since two IC’s are used here.

-29-

Project #559

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make alarm sounds.

Solar Alarm

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure you have a bright light on the solar cell (B2) so the meter reads 10 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the sound.

The meter is used to measure if the solar cell can supply enough current to operate the alarm IC (U2). Some types of light are better than others, but bright sunlight is best.

Project #560

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make alarm sounds.

Better Solar Alarm

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 8 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the sound.

This circuit uses the transformer (T1) to boost the current to the speaker (SP), allowing it to operate with less pow er from the solar cell. Compare how much light it needs to project #559, which doesn’t have a transformer.

You can change the sound from the alarm IC (U2) using the same variations listed in projects #61-65.

-30-

Project #561

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make alarm sounds.

Photo Solar Alarm

Project #562

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make space war sounds.

Solar Space War

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 6 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and listen to the alarm. Cover the photoresistor (RP) to stop the alarm.

The whistle chip (WC) needs less power to make noise than the speaker (SP), so this circuit can operate with less light on the solar cell than projects #559 and #560. But the sound from the circuits with the speaker is louder and clearer.

You can change the sound from the alarm IC (U2) using the same variations listed in projects #61-65.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-31-

Project #563

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make a combination of sounds.

Solar Music Alarm

Combo

Project #564

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make a combination of sounds.

Solar Music Space War Combo

The meter is used to measure if the solar cell can supply enough current to operate the ICs (U1 & U2).

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to make a combination of sounds.

Solar Music Space War Combo (II)

Use the circuit from project #564 but replace the speaker (SP) with the whistle chip (WC). No w the light on the solar cell (B2) doesn’t have to be as bright for this circuit to work. You can also modify this circuit by replacing the music IC (U1) with the alarm IC (U2).

Project #565

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Project #566

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to flash lights in a repeating pattern.

Solar Periodic Lights

Project #568

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to power an AM radio transmitter.

Solar AM Radio

Transmitter

You need an AM radio for this project. Place it next to your circuit and tune the frequency to where no other station is transmitting.

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 9 or higher. Turn on the slide switch and adjust the variable capacitor (CV) for the best sound on the radio. Cover the photoresistor (RP) to change the sound pattern.

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 9 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and the LED’s (D1 & D2) will alternate being on and off.

OBJECTIVE: To use the sun to flash lights in a repeating pattern.

Solar Periodic Lights (II)

Project #567

Use the circuit in project #566, except remov e the 3-snap betw een the music (U1) and alarm (U2) IC’s (base grid locations C2-C4) and add a 2-snap between the music IC and the 100Ω resistor (R1) (base grid B4-C4). The circuit works the same way but the LED flashing patterns are different.

-33-

Project #569

OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.

Low Light Noisemaker

Project #570

Low Light Noisemaker (II)

OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.

Use the circuit from project #569 but replace the whistle chip (WC) with the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) to lower the frequency of the sound. The circuit works the same way.

OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.

Project #571

Low Light Noisemaker (III)

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure you have light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read at least 5 but less than 10.

Turn on the slide switch and it should make a whining sound, adjust the amount of light to the solar cell to change the frequency of the sound. Use a brighter light or partially cover the solar cell if there is no sound at all.

Use the circuit from project #569 but replace the whistle chip (WC) with the 10μF capacitor (C3, “+” on the right) to lower the frequency of the sound. The circuit works the same way but you hear a ticking sound instead of a whining sound.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-34-

Project #572

OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.

Solar Oscillator

Project #574

OBJECTIVE: To learn the principle of an SCR.

Daylight SCR Lamp

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. Make sure you have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 3 or higher.

Turn on the slide switch (S1), the lamp (L1) stays off. Push the press switch (S2) and the SCR (Q3) turns on the lamp and keeps it on. You must turn off the slide switch to turn off the lamp.

The SCR is a controlled diode. It lets current flo w in one direction, and only after a voltage pulse is applied to its control pin. This circuit has the control pin connected to the press switch and solar cell, so you can’t turn it on if the room is dark.

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure you have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 8 or higher. Now turn on the slide switch and adjust the adjustable resistor (RV).

You will hear a clicking sound like raindrops or a whine, depending upon how much light there is.

OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.

Solar Oscillator (II)

Project #573

Use the circuit from project #572 but replace the 10μF capacitor (C3) with the 0.02μF or 0.1μF capacitors (C1 & C2) to make the sound a high-pitch whine.

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Project #575

OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.

Solar Bird Sounds

For variations on this circuit, replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with the 10μF capacitor (C3) or replace the speaker (SP) with the whistle chip (WC).

Project #576

OBJECTIVE: To build a sun-powered oscillator circuit.

Solar Bird Sounds (II)

For variations on this circuit, install the whistle chip (WC) above the

0.02μF capacitor (C1), or install it across points A & B and remove the speaker (SP).

-36-

Project #577

OBJECTIVE: To learn the principle of an SCR.

SCR Solar Bomb Sounds

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. With the slide switch (S1) off, make sure y ou have enough light on the solar cell (B2) for the meter to read 8 or higher. Turn on the slide switch now; nothing happens. Press the press switch (S2) and you hear an explosion of sounds, which continues until you turn off the slide switch.

Project #578

OBJECTIVE: To build a laser sounding circuit.

Flashing Laser LED’s

with Sound

When you press the press switch (S2), the integrated circuit (U2) should sound like a laser gun. The red (D1) and green (D2) LED’s will flash simulating a burst of light. You can shoot long repeating laser bursts or short zaps by tapping the press switch.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Project #579

OBJECTIVE: To combine U2 with an amplifier.

U2 with Transistor

Amplifier

Project #580

U2 with Transistor

Amplifier (II)

OBJECTIVE: To combine U2 with an amplifier.

Using project #579, remove the diode (D3) to create a different sound.

OBJECTIVE: To combine U1 with an amplifier.

Project #581

U1 with Transistor

Amplifier (III)

Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the LED’s (D1 & D2) flash as the speaker (SP) sounds. The output pulses from U2 turns transistor Q2 on and off rapidly. As the transistor turns on, the speaker shorts to ground and a current flows through it. The current flow through the speaker causes it to produce a sound. The LED’s show the pulsing signal from U2 that is turning Q2 on and off.

Using the project #579, replace U2 with U1. The circuit will now play music.

-38-

Project #582

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Loud Sounds

Turn the slide switch (S1) on and you should hear a tone from the speaker (SP).

Project #583

OBJECTIVE: To see and hear the output from the Space War

Swinging Meter

with Sound

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) scale. In this project, you will see and hear the output from the space war IC (U3). The power amplifier IC (U4) amplifies the signal from U3 in order to drive the whistle chip (WC) and meter. Turn on the slide switch (S1). The meter deflects back and forth, as the LED (D1) flashes and the whistle chip sounds. Replace the whistle chip with the speaker (SP) for a louder sound. Note that the meter will deflect very little now. Almost all the signal is across the speaker due to its low resistance.

-39-

Project #584

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Motor Sound Using

Transformer

Project #585

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Motor Sound with LED

In this project, you will drive the whistle chip (WC) and LED’ s using the motor (M1) and transformer (T1). Turn the slide switch (S1) on. The motor begins spinning and the red LED (D1) lights. Now press the press switch (S2), the voltage generated from the transformer is now across the whistle chip and green LED (D2). The whistle chip sounds as the green LED lights.

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Motor Sound with LED (II)

Project #586

Modify project #585 by replacing the 6V lamp (L2) with the speaker (SP). Now the speaker (SP) will also output sound.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

Turn the slide switch (S1) on and then rapidly turn on and off the press switch (S2). This causes a magnetic field to expand and collapse in the transformer (T1). The small voltage generated is then amplified by the power amplifier IC (U4) and the speaker (SP) sounds. Replace switch S2 with the motor (M1, leave the fan off) and you can hear how fast the motor spins. To hear the sound better, connect the speaker to the circuit using the red and black jumper wires (instead of the 2snaps) and hold it next to your ear.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Project #587

OBJECTIVE: Using AC and DC current.

AC & DC Current

This circuit creates an AC & DC current. Press the press switch (S2) a few times and the LED’s flash back and forth. Turning the switch on and off causes the magnetic field in the transformer (T1) to expand (green LED D2 lights) and collapse (red LED D1 lights) and current flows in two directions. Hold the switch down and the green LED flashes once. Replace the 6V lamp (L2) with the motor (M1). Press the press switch, the red LED flickers and the speaker sounds, due to the small current change from the motor spinning.

Project #588

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Noisemaker

Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the relay (S3) generates a buzzing noise. Increase the voltage across the relay by pressing the press switch (S2). The tone is higher because the relay’s contacts are opening and closing faster.

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Project #589

OBJECTIVE: To use AC voltage.

AC Voltage

Turn the slide switch (S1) on. The LED’s (D1 & D2) flash so fast that they appear to be on, and the speaker (SP) sounds. As in other projects, the relay’s (S3) contacts open and close rapidly. This causes the magnetic field in the transformer (T1) to expand and collapse, creating an AC voltage lighting the LED’s.

Project #590

OBJECTIVE: To use AC voltage.

AC Voltage (II)

You can modify project #589 by adding two light bulbs (L1 & L2). When the slide switch (S1) is turned on, the relay (S3) sounds and the light bulbs and LED’s (D1 & D2) flash.

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Project #591

OBJECTIVE: To use AC voltage.

AC Voltage (III)

This project is similar to project #589. When the slide switch (S1) is turned on, the relay (S3) sounds and the light bulbs (L1 & L2) and LED’s (D1 & D2) flash. Now when the press switch (S2) is pressed, the speaker (SP) also sounds.

Project #592

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Noisemaker (II)

Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the relay (S3) generates a buzzing noise. Increase the voltage across the relay by pressing the press switch (S2). The tone changes because the relay’s contacts are opening and closing faster.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Project #594

OBJECTIVE: To create a pulsing motor circuit.

Pulsing Motor

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW scale. Turn on the slide s witch (S1) and now you have a pulsing motor and LED’s circuit. Replace the meter with the 470μF capacitor (C5, “+” on right) to change the rate the LED’ s (D1 & D2) flash.

Project #593

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Noisemaker (III)

Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the speaker (SP) sounds as if a motor is spinning and an alarm is running. The relay’s (S3) contacts rapidly open and close the battery connection to the circuit causing the alarm IC (U2) sound to be different.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

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Project #595 Noisemaker

(IV)

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Project #597

Noisemaker

(VI)

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Project #599

Noisemaker

(VIII)

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Project #598

Noisemaker

(VII)

Modify project #598 by removing the motor (M1). Turn on the slide switch (S1) and press the press switch (S2) to hear the new sound.

Modify the sound of project #599 by replacing the whistle chip (WC) with the meter (M2, “+” towards right), use the LOW (or 10mA) meter setting. T urn on the slide switch (S1) and as the LED’s flash the meter deflects.

Project #600

Noisemaker

(IX)

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Project #596

Noisemaker

(V)

Modify the sound of project #595 by adding capacitor C4 across points A & B (+ of C4 on right).

In this project, you’ll see and hear the output of the alarm IC (U2). Turn on the slide switch (S1), the LED’s (D1 & D2) flash, and the speaker (SP) sounds as the relay (S3) chatters. Now press the press switch (S2) and see what happens when you remove the relay from the circuit.

Modify project #596 by replacing the capacitor C4 with the motor (M1, position it with the “+” on the left and don’t place the f an on it). Turn on the slide switch (S1), the LED’s flash, and the speaker (SP) sounds as the relay (S3) chatters. Now press the press switch (S2) removing the relay from the circuit, providing a constant connection to the battery (B1). The motor speeds up and the sound from the speaker is not distorted.

WARNING: Moving parts.

Do not touch the fan or motor during operation. Do not lean over the motor.

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Modify project #597 replacing the speaker (SP) with the whistle chip (WC) and placing the fan onto the motor (M1). Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the fan spins, lights flash, and the relay (S3) chatters. Now try to launch the fan by pressing the press switch (S2) down for about five seconds and releasing it.

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Project #601

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit.

Alarm Power

Project #602

Alarm Power (II)

OBJECTIVE: To create a sound circuit. OBJECTIVE: To hear the sounds of the night.

Project #603

Night Sounds

In this project, the alarm IC (U2) powers the motor (M1), meter (M2) and LED’s (D1 & D2). Leave the fan off of the motor. Set the meter to the LOW (or 10mA) position and turn on the slide switch (S1). The circuit pulses the meter, motor, and LED’s.

Remove the motor (M1) from the circuit and now the circuit pulses around 1Hz.

Simulate the sound of a forest at night by replacing the motor (M1) in project #601 with the whistle chip (WC).

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the motor

during operation.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Project #604

OBJECTIVE: To power other devices using the alarm IC.

Mega Pulser &

Flasher

In this circuit, you will power many devices using the alarm IC (U2). Set the meter (M2) to LOW (or 10mA) and turn on the slide switch (S1). The LED’s (D1 & D2) and bulbs (L1 & L2) flash, the meter deflects, the whistle chip (WC) sounds, and the motor (M1) spins.

Project #605

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC to flash between “E” & “S”.

“E” & “S” Blinker

This circuit alternately displays letters “E” and “S” by switching segments “E” and “C” on and off. Segments A, D, F, and G are connected to ground so they are always lit. Segment “C” is connected to the base of Q2 and output of U2. The segment “E” is connected to the collector of Q2. When the output of U2 is low, segment “C” is on and “E” is off. When the U2’s output is high, the transistor (Q2) turns on and segment “C” turns off. When the transistor connects the “E” segment to ground the segment lights, displaying the letter “S”.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

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Project #606

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC to flash between “2” & “3”.

“2” & “3” Blinker

The circuit switches between numbers “2” & “3” on the display. Place jumpers from point A to segment C and point B to segment E.

Project #607

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC to flash between “9” & “0”.

“9” & “0” Blinker

The circuit switches between numbers “9” and “0” on the display. Place a jumper from point A to segment G and segment B to segment C.

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Project #608

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC to flash between “3” & “6”.

“3” & “6” Blinker

The circuit switches between numbers “3” & “6” on the display. Place a jumper from segment C to segment D and segment B to point A.

Project #609

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC to flash between “c” & “C”.

“c” & “C” Blinker

The circuit switches between letters “c” & “C” on the display. Place a jumper from point A to segment G and point B to segment A.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Project #610

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC to flash between “O” & “o”.

“O” & “o” Blinker

The circuit switches between upper case “O” and lower case “o”. Place a jumper from point A to segment G. The DP segment will also light.

Project #611

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC to flash between “b” & “d”.

“b” & “d” Blinker

The circuit switches between letters “b” & “d” on the display. Place a jumper from point A to segment B and point B to segment F.

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Project #612

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC to flash between “H” & “L”.

“H” & “L” Blinker

The circuit switches between letters “H” & “L” on the display.

Project #613

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC to flash between “A” & “O”.

“A” & “O” Blinker

The circuit switches between letters “A” & “O” on the display. Place a jumper from point A to segment G. The DP segment will also light.

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Project #614

OBJECTIVE: To construct a circuit that indicates if a door is open or closed using light.

Open & Closed

Indicator

Switching from letters “O” to “C” requires turning off segments B & C. Turn on the slide switch (S1), the display lights an “O” indicating an open door. Cover the photoresistor (RP) with your hand (closed door) and the letter “C” lights. The photoresistor turns Q2 on and off depending on the amount of light. When Q2 is on (light on RP) the voltage at the collector is low, lighting segments B & C. Covering the RP turns Q2 off and the collector voltage is high now. Segments B & C turn off and the letter “C” lights.

Project #615

OBJECTIVE: To construct a circuit that indicates if a switch is open or closed using U4.

Open & Closed Indicator (II)

As in project #614, the display will light an “O” or “C” indicating if the press switch (S2) is on or off. Turn on the slide switch (S1), the LED (D2) and letter “O” lights. With no input to U4 the LED lights and the voltage decreases enough so segments B & C light. Press the press switch S2, the LED turns off and the letter “C” lights. The voltage at U4’s output increased enough turning the segments off.

OBJECTIVE: To construct a circuit that indicates vibration.

Vibration Indicator

Project #616

Modify project #615 by replacing the press switch (S2) with the whistle chip (WC). As you tap the whistle chip, U4’s output voltage changes, lighting the LED (D2) and changing the display from “C” to “O”.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-52-

Project #617

OBJECTIVE: To construct a circuit that indicates vibration.

Vibration Sounder

Project #618

OBJECTIVE: To use the SCR to start a circuit.

SCR Noise Circuit

Turn on the slide switch (S1) and nothing happens. The SCR (Q3) connects the circuit to the batteries and, until the SCR’s gate goes high, the circuit is off. Press the press switch (S2) and the motor (M1) spins and the LED (D2) and bulb (L2) light. Increase the sound from the speaker (SP) by pressing the press switch.

As the motor (M1) spins, it generates an AC voltage amplified by U4. The output from U4 lights the LED (D2) and makes noise from the speaker (SP). With the fan not installed, turn on the slide switch (S1) and you hear the high tone of the spinning motor. Now, install the fan and hear the difference.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

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Project #619

OBJECTIVE: Control bulbs L1 & L2 with an SCR and transistor.

SCR & Transistor

Switch

Turn the slide switch (S1) on and then press the press switch (S2), both bulbs (L1 & L2) light, but only L2 sta ys on when S2 is released. To stay on, the transistor (Q2) requires a continuous voltage but the SCR only needs a pulse. The speaker (SP) may not make any sound.

Project #620

OBJECTIVE: Increase the speed of a motor using an SCR and transistor.

Two-speed Motor

If you turn on either switch (S1 or S2) alone, nothing happens. But if you turn on the slide switch (S1) and then press the press switch (S2), the lamps (L1 & L2) light and the motor (M1) spins. The SCR (Q3) keeps the 6V lamp (L2) on and the motor spinning after you release the press switch. If you hold the press switch down, then the 2.5V lamp (L1) stays on and the motor spins faster.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

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Project #621

OBJECTIVE: To decrease the speed of a motor using an SCR and transistor.

Two-speed Motor (II)

Instead of increasing the motor’s speed as in project #620, pressing the press switch (S2) decreases the speed. In this circuit, the transistor (Q2) is in parallel with the SCR (Q3). Pressing S2 turns on Q2 and the voltage across the motor (M1) decreases.

Project #622

OBJECTIVE: To show the effects of current flow.

Current Flow

Set the meter (M2) to the LOW (or 10mA) position. Turning on the slide switch (S1) connects the motor (M1), meter and 2.5V lamp (L1) to the lower battery (B1) pack. The motor rotates clockwise and the meter deflects right. Now turn off the slide switch and press the press switch (S2). Now, current from the upper battery causes the motor to rotate in the opposite direction. If you place the batteries in series by turning on the slide switch and then pressing the press switch, only the bulbs (L1 & L2) light.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-55-

Project #623

OBJECTIVE: To build an AM radio with LED’s.

AM Radio

with Power LED’s

Set the adjustable resistor (R V) to the middle position and turn the slide switch (S1) on. Tune the radio by adjusting the v ariab le capacitor (CV). The LED’s (D1 & D2) flicker as the sound is heard.

Project #624

OBJECTIVE: To record the sounds from the space war IC.

Space War IC

Recording

The circuit records the sounds from the space war IC (U3) into the recording IC (U6). Turn on the slide switch (S1) and the first beep indicates that the IC has begun recording. When you hear two beeps, the recording has stopped. Turn off the slide switch and press the press switch (S2). You will hear the recording of the space war IC before each song is played. The lamp (L2) is used to limit current and will not light.

Place the 2-snap from points A & B onto C & D . Now record a different sound from U3.

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Project #625

OBJECTIVE: To construct an LED flasher.

LED Flasher

Set the adjustable resistor (R V) to the top position and then turn on the slide switch (S1). The LED’s (D1 & D2) flash at a rate of once per second. As you adjust RV’s knob down, the LED’s flash faster. When RV is at the bottom, the LED’s tur n off.

Project #626

OBJECTIVE: To construct an LED flasher with sound.

LED Flasher with Sound

You can modify project #625 by adding a transformer (T1) to drive a speaker (SP). Set the adjustable resistor (RV) to the top position and turn on the slide switch (S1). The speaker sounds as the LED (D2) flashes several times per second. Increase the rate by moving RV’s knob down.

OBJECTIVE: To construct an LED flasher with sound.

LED Flasher with Sound (II)

Project #627

Modify the frequency by replacing the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) with the 10μF capacitor (C3, “+” side on the right).

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Project #628

OBJECTIVE: To build a variable stepper motor.

Stepper Motor

Adjust the adjustable resistor

(RV)

to the middle position and turn on the slide switch (S1). As the circuit oscillates, the motor (M1) moves a short distance as the speaker (SP) sounds. Adjust the adjustable resistor to different positions seeing how it affects the motor and speaker.

Project #629

OBJECTIVE: To change the sound of the music IC.

Crazy Music IC

Set the adjustable resistor (R V) to the far left position and turn the slide switch (S1) on. The relay’s (S3) contacts open and close shorting U1 to ground, causing the sound level to change.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-58-

Project #630

OBJECTIVE: To add sound to a stepper motor circuit.

Stepper Motor w/ Sound

Modify project #630 by removing the speaker (SP) and replacing it with the lamp (L1). Now when you turn the slide switch (S1) on, the lamp lights as the motor spins.

Set the adjustable resistor (RV) to the middle position. Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the motor (M1) pulses on and off as the speaker (SP) sounds. As the circuit oscillates, the relay’s (S3) contacts open and close shorting the motor and speaker to ground. See how much you can adjust the adjustable resistor before the motor turns off or continuously spins.

Project #631

OBJECTIVE: To add light to a stepper motor circuit.

Stepper Motor w/ Light

Project #632

OBJECTIVE: To display the letter “P” as the alarm IC sounds.

Police Siren with

Display

Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the speaker (SP) sounds as the letter “P” lights. You also hear the music IC (U1) playing in the background. The alarm IC (U2) plays as long as the music IC is on since U2 is connected to U1’s output. After 20 seconds, the circuit turns off for 5 seconds and then starts again.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

-59-

Project #633

OBJECTIVE: To control the alarm IC with an oscillator circuit.

Oscillator Alarm

Set the adjustable resistor (RV) to the far left and turn the slide switch (S1) on. The speaker (SP) sounds only once. Slo wly mov e the adjustab le resistor to the right, the speaker momentarily sounds. As you move the adjustable resistor to the right, the alarm is on continuously. The adjustable resistor controls the frequency of the oscillator circuit (C3, C5, Q1, Q2) by adjusting the voltage at Q2’s base. The relay (S3) switches the alarm IC (U2) on and off.

Project #635

OBJECTIVE: To control the space war IC with an oscillator circuit.

Tapping U3

Set the adjustable resistor (RV) to the middle position and turn the slide switch (S1) on. This is another example using the oscillator that switches the power on and off creating sound. Alter the sound by adjusting the adjustable resistor.

OBJECTIVE: To control the alarm IC with an oscillator circuit.

Oscillator Alarm (II)

Project #634

Using a single snap, connect the red LED (D1, “+” side on point A) across points A & B. Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the circuit has a different sound now.

OBJECTIVE: To control the space war IC with an oscillator circuit.

Tapping U3 (II)

Project #636

Connect the motor (M1) across points A & B. Set the adjustable resistor (RV) to the middle position and turn the slide switch (S1) on. Now you hear random noise and static from the speaker (SP). The motor causes the random static and noise from the speaker.

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Project #637

OBJECTIVE: To build a simple oscillator that beeps.

Adjustable Beeper

Turn the slide switch (S1) on and this simple oscillator circuit outputs a beep from the speaker (SP). Change the frequency by adjusting the adjustable resistor (RV).

Project #638

OBJECTIVE: To create the sound of a cat’s meow.

Electronic Meow

Turn off the slide switch (S1) and then press and release the press switch (S2). You hear a “cat’s meow” from the speak er (SP). Now turn the slide switch (S1) on and the sound is lower and lasts longer . Adjust the adjustable resistor (RV) while the sound is fading away.

OBJECTIVE: To add the photoresistor to project #638.

Electronic Meow (II)

Project #639

Replace the 10KΩ resistor (R4) with the photoresistor (RP). Wave your hand over photoresistor as you press down on the press switch (S2).

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-61-

Project #640

OBJECTIVE: To construct an LED strobe light.

Strobe Light

This is an example of how a large strobe light works. Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the LED (D2) flashes at a certain frequency. Adjust the frequency by adjusting the adjustable resistor (RV). Now add sound by replacing the 100Ω resistor (R1) with the speaker (SP). Each time the LED lights, the speaker sounds.

Project #641

OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the operations of the AND gate.

AND Gate

In digital electronics, there are two states, 0 & 1. The AND gate performs a logical “and” oper ation on two inputs , A & B . If A AND B are both 1, then Q should be 1. The logic table below shows the state of “Q” with different inputs and the symbol for it in circuit diagrams.

In the circuit, the S1 & S2 switches represent inputs A & B, and the D7 display represents output Q.

A B Q D7

0 0 0 “L” 1 0 0 “L” 0 1 0 “L” 1 1 1 “H”

A B

AND Gate

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Project #642

OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the operations of the NAND gate.

NAND Gate

Project #643

OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the operations of the OR gate.

OR Gate

The NAND gate works the opposite of the AND as shown in the logic chart.

In the circuit, the S1 & S2 switches represent inputs A & B, and the D7 display represents output Q.

The basic idea of an OR gate is: If A OR B is 1 (or both are 1), then Q is 1.

In the circuit, the S1 & S2 switches represent inputs A & B, and the D7 display represents output Q.

A B Q D7

0 0 1 “H” 1 0 1 “H” 0 1 1 “H” 1 1 0 “L”

A B Q D7

0 0 0 “L” 1 0 1 “H” 0 1 1 “H” 1 1 1 “H”

A B

NAND Gate

A B

OR Gate

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Project #644

OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the operations of the NOR gate.

NOR Gate

Project #645

OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the operations of the “exclusive or” XOR gate.

XOR Gate

The NOR gate works the opposite of the OR. In the circuit, the S1 & S2 switches represent inputs A & B, and the D7 display represents output Q.

In an XOR gate the output “Q” is only high when inputs “A” or “B” is set high (1). Using the chart, set the switches (S1 & S2) to the different states. The display (D7) lights the letter “H” only when either switch is turned on.

A B Q D7

0 0 1 “H” 1 0 0 “L” 0 1 0 “L” 1 1 0 “L”

A B Q D7

0 0 0 – 1 0 1 “H” 0 1 1 “H” 1 1 0 –

A B

XOR Gate

A B

NOR Gate

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

-64-

Project #646

OBJECTIVE: To build a high pitch oscillator.

High Pitch Oscillator

Project #648

Low Pitch

Oscilla

tor (II)

OBJECTIVE: To modify project #646. OBJECTIVE: To modify project #646.

Project #649

Low Pitch

Oscilla

tor (III)

Replace the 0.1μF capacitor (C2) with the 10μF capacitor (C3) placing the “+” sign to w ards the top. Turn the slide switch (S1) on; now the circuit oscillates at a lower frequency.

Replace the 10μF capacitor (C3) with the 470μF capacitor (C5) placing the “+” sign towards the top. Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the circuit oscillates at a lower frequency now.

Set the adjustable resistor (RV) to the top position and then turn the slide switch (S1) on. You hear a high pitch sound and the LED (D1) flashes at the same rate. Change the oscillator frequency b y adjusting RV .

OBJECTIVE: To modify project #646.

Low Pitch Oscillator

Project #647

Replace the whistle chip (WC) with the 0.1μF capacitor (C2). Turn the slide switch (S1) on and now the circuit oscillates at a low er frequency.

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Project #650

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC with the 7-segment display.

Segment Jumper

Turn the slide switch (S1) on; segments A, B, and F light and then segments C, D, and E. The two groups of segments are connected to different voltages. As the voltage changes from high to low, the segments toggle back and forth.

Project #651

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC with the 7-segment display.

DP & Zero Flasher

As in project #650, we use the alarm IC (U2) to flash segments and LED’s. Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the number “0” and the g reen LED (D2) flash as the speaker (SP) sounds. When they turn off, the DP segment lights.

Project #652

OBJECTIVE: To add LED’s to a stepper motor circuit.

Stepper Motor with

Lamp & LED’s

Set the adjustable resistor (RV) to the middle position. Turn the slide switch (S1) on, the motor spins, the bulb lights , and then turn off as the green LED lights.

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Project #653

OBJECTIVE: To drive the motor and display with two IC modules.

IC Start & Stop

Turn the slide switch (S1) on. As the output from the IC (U2) drives the transistor (Q1), the motor (M1) spins and the display (D7) lights the letter “S” and then turns off.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

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Project #654

OBJECTIVE: To modify project #653 so the motor slows down.

IC Motor Speed

Turn the slide switch (S1) on. As the output from the IC (U2) drives the transistor (Q1), the motor (M1) spins and the display (D7) lights. Instead of turning off as in project #653, the motor slows down and the red LED (D1) lights.

Modify the circuit by placing a jumper wire across points A & B. Now the circuit pulses and then runs continuously for a short time.

Project #655

OBJECTIVE: To use the alarm IC to drive the motor, speaker, LED and bulb.

Sound & Light Flasher

Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the speaker (SP) outputs the sounds from the alarm IC (U2). The IC also drives the transistor (Q1) causing the motor (M1) to spin and lights to flash.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

-68-

Project #656

OBJECTIVE: To learn about the electromagnet.

Electromagnet

Delayer

Build the circuit and turn it on. After a delay of about 2 seconds, the lamp (L2) will light, but be dim. Replace your batteries if it does not light at all.

Why does the electromagnet (M3) delay the lamp turn-on? The electromagnet (M3) contains a large coil of wire, and the batteries have to fill the coil with electricity before the lamp can turn on. This is like using a long hose to water your garden - when you turn on the water it takes a few seconds before water comes out the other end.

Once the lamp is on, the resistance of the wire in the coil keeps the lamp from getting bright. You can replace the 6V lamp with the 2.5V lamp (L1), because the coil will protect it from the full battery voltage.

Project #657

OBJECTIVE: To learn about the electromagnet.

Electromagnet

Delayer (II)

Use the LOW (or 10mA) setting on the meter (M2) and turn on the slide switch (S1). The meter sho ws ho w the current slo wly rises. After a delay of about 2 seconds, the lamp (L2) will light but be dim.

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Project #658

OBJECTIVE: To learn about the electromagnet.

Two-Lamp

Electromagnet Delayer

Build the circuit and turn it on. First the 2.5V lamp (L1) turns on, and then the 6V lamp (L2) turns on. Both may be dim, replace your batteries if they do not light at all.

The electromagnet (M3) stores energy, and the batter ies must fill it up before the lamps become bright. The smaller bulb turns on sooner because it needs less current to light.

Project #659

OBJECTIVE: To measure the electromagnet current.

Electromagnet

Current

Use the HIGH (or 1A) setting on the meter (M2) to measure the electromagnet (M3) current. Compare the meter reading to that f or the motor and lamp current in projects #544-546. Insert the iron core rod into the electromagnet and see if it changes the meter reading.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Project #660

OBJECTIVE: To learn how electricity and magnetism are related.

Electromagnetism

Project #661 Electromagnetism

& Compass

You need a compass for this project (not included). Use the circuit from project #660, with the iron core rod in the electromagnet (M3). You may want to use the slide switch (S1) in place of the press switch (S2), but only turn it on as needed or you will quickly drain your batteries.

Turn on the slide switch and move the compass around near the edges of the electromagnet, it will point toward ends of the iron core rod. By slowly moving the compass around the electromagnet, you can see the flow of its magnetic field.

The earth has a similar magnetic field, due to its iron core. A compass points north because it is attracted to this magnetic field. The electromagnet creates its own magnetic field, and attracts the compass in a similar way.

Put the iron core rod into the electromagnet (M3). Press the press switch (S2) and place the electromagnet (M3) near some iron objects like a refrigerator or a hammer, it will be attracted to them. You can use it to pick up iron objects, such as nails.

Electricity and magnetism are closely related, and an electric current flowing in a coil of wire has a magnetic field just like a normal magnet. Placing an iron rod through the coil magnifies this magnetic field. Notice that when the electromagnet is attracted to an iron object, its attraction is strongest at the ends of the iron core rod. If you remove the iron core rod from the electromagnet then its magnetic properties are greatly reduced – try this:

If you place the electromagnet upside down under a large object like a table, you can suspend it there. Be careful though, since it will fall when you release the press switch.

You can use this circuit to see which things are made of iron. Other metals like copper or aluminum will not be attracted to the electromagnet.

Magnetic Field

Compass

OBJECTIVE: To learn how electricity and magnetism are related.

Use the circuit from project #660, with the iron core rod in the electromagnet (M3). Press the press switch (S2) and use the electromagnet to pick up some paperclips, they will be attracted to both ends of the iron core rod. See how many paperclips you can lift at once.

Snap two 2-snaps around a paperclip and lift them with the electromagnet, as shown here on the left.

The magnetic field created by the electromagnet occurs in a loop, and is strongest in the iron core rod in the middle. You can see this loop with some paperclips:

You can also use the paperclip to lift the iron core rod up from the electromagnet.

See what other small objects you can pick up . You can only pick up things made of iron, not just any metal.

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Project #662

OBJECTIVE: To learn how electricity and magnetism are related.

Electromagnetism & Paperclips

Project #663

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Electromagnet Suction

An electric current flowing in a coil of wire has a magnetic field, which tries to suck iron objects into its center. You can see this using the circuit from project #660.

Lay the electromagnet (M3) on its side with the iron core rod sticking out about half way, and press the press switch (S2). The iron rod gets sucked into the center.

A lighter iron object will show this better. T ake a paperclip and straighten it out, then bend it in half.

Place the bent paperclip next to the electromagnet and turn on the switch to see it get sucked in. Gently pull it out to feel how much suction the electromagnet has.

Tr y sucking up other thin iron objects, like nails.

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Project #664

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Electromagnet Tower

Project #665

OBJECTIVE: To learn how electricity and magnetism are related.

Paperclip Compass

Use the circuit from project #664, but place the iron core rod in the electromagnet (M3). You may want to use the slide switch (S1) in place of the press switch (S2), but only turn it on as needed or you will quickly drain your batteries.

Slide two paperclips together, using their loops. Turn on the switch and hold the paperclips just above the

electromagnet, without them touching the iron core rod. Watch how the lower paperclip is drawn toward the iron core rod, and will point towards it just like a compass.

This circuit gives a dramatic demonstration of how the electromagnet (M3) can suck up a paperclip. Take a paperclip and straighten it out, then bend it in half. Drop it into the electromagnet center, and then press the press switch (S2) several times. The paperclip gets sucked into the center of the electromagnet and stays suspended there until you release the press switch.

Add two more 1-snaps under the electromagnet to make it higher, and try this again. Then try sucking up other thin iron objects, like nails.

Straighten and bend paperclip

Drop in

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

Straighten and bend paperclip

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Project #666

Adjustable Paperclip Suspension

Project #667

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Adjustable Paperclip w/ Delay

Use the LOW (or 10mA) setting on the meter (M2). Take a paperclip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and place it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Tur n on the press switch (S2) and set the adjustable resistor (RV) control lever all the way to the right. The paperclip gets sucked into the center of the electromagnet and stays suspended there.

Now quickly slide the adjustable resistor lever all the way to the left, and watch the paperclip and the meter reading. The paperclip slowly gets lower, as the meter shows the current dropping. This circuit is similar to project #666, but the capacitor delays the effect of changing the adjustable resistor setting.

Use the LOW (or 10mA) setting on the meter (M2). Take a paperclip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and drop it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and set the adjustable resistor (RV) control lever all the way to the right. The paperclip gets sucked into the center of the electromagnet and stays suspended there.

Now very slowly move the adjustable resistor lever to the left, and watch the paperclip and the meter reading. The paperclip slowly gets lower, as the meter shows the current dropping. When the current is at zero, the paperclip is resting on the table.

Add two more 1-snaps under the electromagnet to make it higher, and try this again. Or try using a different iron object in place of the paperclip.

Drop in

Straighten and bend paperclip

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Drop in

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Project #668

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Photoresistor

Paperclip Suspension

Project #669

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Paperclip Oscillator

Take a paperclip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and place it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Turn on the slide switch (S1), and set the adjustable resistor (RV) control lever to the right. The paperclip gets sucked into the center of the electromagnet and stays suspended there. Move the adjustable resistor lever to the left, and the paperclip falls.

Now for the fun part: Slowly slide the adjustable resistor lever until you find a spot where the paperclip is bouncing up and down. There will be a clicking sound from the relay (S3).

Take a paperclip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and place it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Turn on the slide switch (S1), the paperclip gets sucked into the center of the electromagnet and stays suspended there.

Now move the adjustable resistor (RV) control lever around while waving your hand over the photoresistor (RP). Depending on the adjustable resistor

setting, sometimes covering the photoresistor causes the paperclip to fall and sometimes it doesn’t. You can also adjust the light to set the paperclip to different heights.

Drop in

Straighten and

bend paperclip

Drop in

Straighten and bend paperclip

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Project #670

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Paperclip Oscillator (II)

Project #671

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Paperclip Oscillator (III)

Now for the fun part: Slowly slide the adjustable resistor lever until you find a spot where the paperclip is bouncing up and down. The speaker (SP) makes a clicking sound.

Now for the fun part: Slowly slide the adjustable resistor lever until you find a spot where the paperclip is bouncing up and down.

Drop in

Straighten and bend paperclip

Drop in

Straighten and bend paperclip

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

Straighten and bend paperclip

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Project #672

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Paperclip Oscillator (IV)

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Now for the fun part: slowly slide the adjustable resistor lever until you find a spot where the paperclip is bouncing up and down. The LED (D1) flashes and the speaker (SP) makes a clicking sound.

Drop in

Project #673

OBJECTIVE: To learn how electricity and magnetism are related.

Oscillating

Compass

Use the circuit from project #672, but replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with a 3-snap wire and replace the speaker (SP) with the 6V lamp (L2). The circuit works the same way, but the lamp flashes like a strobe light.

Project #674

Use the circuit from project #672, but replace the 100μF capacitor (C4) with a 3-snap wire and replace the speaker (SP) with the 6V lamp (L2). Place the iron core rod in the electromagnet (M3) and don’t use the bent paperclip. Slide two paperclips together, using their loops.

Turn on the slide switch (S1) and hold the paperclips just above the electromagnet, without them touching the iron core rod. Watch how the lower paperclip is drawn toward the iron core rod. Notice that the lower paperclip is vibrating, due to the changing magnetic field from this oscillator circuit. Compare this circuit to project #665 (Paperclip Compass).

Paperclip

Oscillator (V)

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Project #675

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

High Frequency Vibrator

Project #676

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

High Frequency Vibrator (II)

Take a paperclip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and place it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Connect the electromagnet to points A & B with the jumper wires and hold it about 1 inch above the table. Slide the adjustable resistor (RV) control lever around slowly, you will hear a clicking sound from the relay (S3).

Adjust the electromagnet height and resistor control lever until the paperclip vibrates up and down on the table. It will vibrate at a fast rate but will not move very high. Usually this works best with the electromagnet about one inch above the table and the resistor control about mid-way to the right side, but your results may vary. See how high you can make the paperclip bounce.

Adjust the electromagnet height and resistor control lever to change the height and frequency of the vibration.

Straighten and bend paperclip

Take a paper clip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and place it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Connect the electromagnet to points A & B with the jumper wires and hold it about 1 inch above the table. Slide the adjustable resistor (RV) control lever around slowly, you will hear a clicking sound from the relay (S3) and speaker (SP).

Adjust the electromagnet height and resistor control lever until the paper clip vibrates up and down on the table. It will vibrate at a fast rate but will not move very high. Usually this works best with the electromagnet about one inch above the table and the resistor control about mid-way to the right side, but your results may vary. See how high you can make the paper clip bounce.

Adjust the electromagnet height and resistor control lever to change the height and frequency of the vibration.

Straighten and

bend paper clip

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Project #677

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can move things using magnetism.

Siren Paperclip Vibrator

Take a paperclip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and place it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Turn on the slide switch (S1), and the paperclip should vibrate.

Now press the press switch (S2), the paperclip is suspended in the air by the electromagnet and a siren alarm sounds.

Drop in

Straighten and bend paperclip

Project #678

Alarm

aperclip Vibrator

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can move things using magnetism.

Project #679

Machine Gun

aperclip Vibrator

Use the circuit from project #677, remove the connection between points A & B and make a connection between points B & C (using a spacer on point B). The sound and vibration are different now. Compare the vibration height and frequency to project #677.

Now remove the connection between points B & C and make a connection between points D & E. The sound and vibration are different now. Compare the vibration height and frequency to projects #677 and #678.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Project #680

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can move things using magnetism.

Alarm Vibrator w/ LED

Take a paperclip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and place it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Turn on the slide switch (S1), and the paperclip should vibrate and LED (D1) flashes.

Now press the press switch (S2), the paperclip is sucked up by the electromagnet and a siren alarm sounds.

You can replace the speaker (SP) with the whistle chip (WC) to change the sound.

Drop in

Straighten and bend paperclip

Project #681

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can move things using magnetism.

Alarm Vibrator w/ LED (II)

Take a paperclip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and place it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Turn on the slide switch (S1), and the paperclip should vibrate.

Now press the press switch (S2), the paperclip is sucked up by the electromagnet and the LED (D1) flashes.

Drop in

Straighten and bend paperclip

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Project #682

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Relay-Whistle Vibrator

Take a paperclip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and place it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Connect the electromagnet to points A & B with the jumper wires and hold it about 1 inch above the table. Slide the adjustable resistor (RV) control lev er around slowly, you will hear a clicking sound from the relay (S3) and buzzing from the whistle chip (WC).

Adjust the electromagnet height and resistor control lever until the paperclip vibrates up and down on the table. The vibration pattern may seem complex because it is due to two sources: the whistle chip and the relay.

Adjust the electromagnet height and resistor control lever to change the height and frequency of the vibration.

You can also replace the 10KΩ resistor (R4) with the photoresistor (RP). Waving your hand over it will start or stop the vibration.

Drop in

Straighten and bend paperclip

Project #683

OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can lift things using magnetism.

Relay-Whistle Photo Vibrator

Take a paperclip and straighten it out, bend it in half, and place it into the electromagnet (M3) center. Connect the electromagnet to points A & B with the jumper wires and hold it about 1 inch above the table. Slide the adjustable resistor (RV) control lever around slowly without covering the photoresistor (RP), you will hear a clicking sound from the relay (S3) and buzzing from the whistle chip (WC).

Adjust the electromagnet height and resistor control lever until the paperclip vibrates up and down on the table. Then wave your hand over the photoresistor. The vibration patter n may seem complex because it is due to three sources: the whistle chip, the relay, and the photoresistor.

Adjust the electromagnet height and resistor control lever to change the height and frequency of the vibration. Covering the photoresistor stops the vibration.

Drop in

Straighten and bend paperclip

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Project #684

OBJECTIVE: Introduction to the vibration switch.

Vibration LED

The vibration switch (S4) contains two separate contacts; a spring is connected to one of the contacts. A vibration causes the spring to move briefly shorting the two contacts. This simple circuit demonstrates how the vibration switch works. Build the circuit and the LED (D1) does not light. Tap the vibration switch or table and the LED lights for every tap.

The 100KΩ resistor (R5) limits the current to protect the vibration switch while the transistors allow the vibration switch to control a large current.

Project #685

OBJECTIVE: To create sound with a tap of your finger.

Vibration Speaker

OBJECTIVE: To use the meter with the vibration switch.

Modify project #685 by replacing the speaker (SP) with the meter (M2). Place it with the “+” side towards R5 and use the LOW (or 10mA) setting. Tap the vibration switch (S4) and the meter deflects to the right. Tap harder on the switch; the switch closes longer and the meter deflects more to the right.

Measure the Vibration

as You Tap the Switch

Project #686

Build the circuit and turn on the slide switch (S1). When you tap on the vibration switch (S4), the speaker (SP) sounds. Listen closely because the sound ma y not be v ery loud.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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Project #687

OBJECTIVE: To turn the music IC on and off using the vibration switch.

Shaky Birthday Song

Connect the vibration switch (S4) to the circuit using the red and black jumpers. Hold the vibration switch steady in your hand and the music should not play. Now move your hand, the music should briefly play. If you continuously shake the switch, the music keeps playing. Turn the slide switch (S1) on and the music pla ys. Change the sound b y shaking the vibration switch.

Project #688

OBJECTIVE: To show the effects of horizontal and vertical direction.

Vibration Detector

Connect the vibration switch (S4) to the circuit using the black and red jumper wires. Place the s witch horizontally on the table . Rapidly move the switch from left to right and notice that the LED (D1) does not light. There is not enough force to expand the internal spring to turn on the switch. No w mov e the switch up and do wn and see that the LED easily lights. It requires less force to move the spring back and forth.

You can replace the LED (D1) with the meter (M2), place it with the “+” side towards R5 and use the LOW (or 10mA) setting. The meter deflects more when you move the vibration switch up and down.

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Project #689

OBJECTIVE: To build an out of balance turn off circuit.

Out of Balance

Project #690

OBJECTIVE: To sound an alarm when something is shaken.

Vibration Alarm

Turn on the slide switch (S1) and shake the circuit or bang on the table; an alarm will sound. Try banging on the table in a regular patter n, and see if you can make the alarm sound continuously.

The vibration switch (S4) triggers the SCR (Q3) connecting the relay’s (S3) coil to the battery (B1). The relay’s contacts switch, turning the motor (M1) off, and lighting the lamp (L2). The lamp will stay lit until the slide switch (S1) is turned off.

Turn the slide switch on; the motor starts to spin. If the motor generates enough vibration, the switch will trigger the SCR, turning off the motor and lighting the lamp. If the motor keeps spinning, tap on the table to trigger the vibration switch.

WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or

motor during operation. Do not lean o ver the motor.

-84-

Project #691

OBJECTIVE: To make sounds when something is shaken.

Vibration Space War

Turn on the slide switch (S1) and shake the circuit or bang on the table, you will hear different sounds. Try banging on the table in a regular pattern, and see if you can make the sounds continuous.

When the vibration switch (S4) is shaken, the circuit plays out one of eight sounds.

Project #692

OBJECTIVE: To build a lamp that stays on for a while.

Vibration Light

Turn on the slide switch (S1) and shake the base grid or bang on the table. The lamp (L1) turns on when there is vibration, and stays on for a few seconds.

To learn more about how circuits work, visit www.snapcircuits.net or page 85 to find out about our Student Guides.

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OTHER FUN ELENCO®PRODUCTS!

For a listing of local toy retailers who carry Snap Circuits®, please visit www.elenco.com or call us toll-free at (800) 533-2441. For Snap Circuits®upgrade kits, accessories, additional parts, and more information about your parts, please visit www.snapcircuits.net.

Elenco®provides a circuit designer so that you can make your own Snap Circuits®drawings. This Microsoft®Word document can be downloaded from:

www.snapcircuits.net/SnapDesigner.doc

or through the www.snapcircuits.net web site.

Snaptricity Model SCBE-75

Build Over 75 Projects

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• Infrared detector

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ELENCO

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Elenco Projects 512-692 User Manual

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Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual