Elecraft KIO2 User Manual

ELECRAFT KIO2 AUX I/O MODULE
Assembly and Operating Instructions
Revision C, June 6, 2012. Copyright © 2012, Elecraft; All Rights Reserved
Introduction
The KIO2 option allows the K2 to be remote-controlled by a computer. It also provides a number of useful signals for interfacing the K2 to other equipment. With the KIO2 option and a small lap-top computer, the K2 becomes a highly integrated field contesting or DXpedition station.
Many transceivers with serial interfaces provide only logic-level (TTL) signals, so that connection to a computer requires an external RS-232 converter. In contrast, the KIO2 provides true RS-232 signal levels. It also adds very little to the K2's receive-mode current drain.
RS-232 interfaces are often significant sources of RFI (radio frequency interference), which can degrade receiver performance. This is because most RS-232 driver circuits use a 20-200 kHz square-wave RC oscillator to generate the negative DC voltage needed for signal drivers. To minimize RFI, the KIO2's serial interface provides an HF crystal oscillator (operating well outside of any ham band) to generate the negative driver voltage.
In addition to the serial interface, the KIO2 includes an AuxBus output and +12 VDC for use with small external accessories, as well as signals for controlling an external power amplifier. All signals are RF­filtered. Shielded cable and all connectors needed for connection to the computer are provided in the kit.
Specifications
RS-232 Interface
Data Rate and format 4800 baud, 8 data bits, no parity, 2 stop bits Handshaking None ESD protection +/- 15 kV; signal lines RF filtered and shielded
Current Drain 5 to 10 mA (typ.)
Size (KIO2 PC board) 1.5" (L) x 1.5" (D) x 0.5" (H) (3.8 x 3.8 x 12 cm)
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Caution: Some components in this kit can be damaged by static discharge. Before handling any
transistors or integrated circuits, always put on an anti-static wrist strap or touch any grounded, unpainted metal surface.
Elecraft • www.elecraft.com • 831-763-4211
Parts Inventory
The table below lists all parts in the kit. Refer to the K2 manual parts lists for parts photographs.
Ref. Description Part No. Qty
Components on the KIO2 PC board
C14 Capacitor, 56 pF ("56" or "560") E530076 1 C10 Capacitor, 120 pF ("121" or "120") E530077 1
C1, C2, Ctxd Capacitor, .001 µF ("102"); Ctxd used on Control Board E530074 3
C3-C7,C9,C11,C13 Capacitor, .01 µF ("103") E530019 8 C12, C15 Capacitor, 0.1 µF ("104") E530020 2 C8 Capacitor, 10 µF low-profile electrolytic E530045 1 D1-D4 Diode, 1N4148 E560002 4 J1 9-pin female "D" connector (DB9F) E620048 1 J2 Connector not used; wires will be soldered at this location - 0 L1 RF choke, subminiature, 15 µH (BRN-GRN-BLK) E690012 1 L2, L3, L4 RF choke, subminiature, 100 µH (BRN-BLK-BRN) E690013 3 L5 Toroidal inductor, FT23-43 core (dark gray); see text E680004 1 Q1 Transistor, J310 E580012 1 R1 Resistor, 3.9 k, 1/4 watt, 5% (ORG-WHT-RED) E500009 1 R2 Resistor, 47 ohms, 1/4 watt, 5% (YEL-VIO-BLK) E500019 1 U1 IC, MAX1406CPE (alt: LT1039CN16) E600036 1 U2 IC, voltage regulator, 78L05 E600029 1 X1 Crystal, low-profile, 16.289 MHz ("S162" or similar label) E660014 1
Components on the AUX2 PC board
C2 Capacitor, .01 µF ("103") E530019 1 C1 Capacitor, 0.1 µF ("104") E530020 1 J1 Conn., 10-pin (total), dual-row female, 0.1” spacing E620045 1 J2 Connector not used; wires will be soldered at this location - 0 L1 RF choke, subminiature, 15 µH (BRN-GRN-BLK) E690012 1 P1 Conn., 10-pin (total), dual-row male, 0.1" spacing E620040 1
Hardware and Miscellaneous
MISC KIO2 PC board E100125 1 MISC AUX2 PC board E100126 1 MISC 9-pin female "D" connector (DB9F) E620048 1 MISC 9-pin male "D" connector (DB9M) E620049 1 MISC DB9 backshell assembly w/hardware E620050 2 MISC 8-conductor shielded cable E760014 2 ft. MISC 4-conductor shielded cable E760009 10 ft. HDWR Hex standoff, male/fem., 4-40 x 3/16" (qty. incl. 1 spare) E700052 3 HDWR Nut, 4-40, brass (qty. includes 1 spare) E700051 3 MISC Enamel wire, #26 Thermaleze, RED E760002 2 ft. MISC Hookup wire, green E760008 1 ft. MISC Cable ties, 3 inch (7.6 cm) E980002 3
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Firmware Requirements
To use the KIO2, you'll need main microcontroller firmware revision 2.01 or later (the main
microcontroller is U6 on the K2 Control board). If you received new firmware as an upgrade, you can install it now, or at the point indicated in this manual (page 10). To check your firmware revision, hold any switch when powering up the K2. When you release the switch, the revision will be shown on the LCD.
KIO2 PC Board Assembly
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A fine-point, temperature-controlled soldering iron (700-800 degrees F maximum) is required components, pads, or traces. We also recommended the use of a Panavise (or equivalent bench vise) and an illuminated magnifying glass to facilitate PCB and connector assembly.
since removing parts from double-sided PC boards can be difficult.
two types both have solder cup terminations on one side. On the other side, the male connectors have pins
while the females have sockets. Locate one of the female connectors for use at J1 on the KIO2 board.
from the socket side, and secure them hand-tight only with the brass nuts as shown in Figure 1 (A).
to assemble the PC boards. A higher-wattage iron or one with a wide tip may damage
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Install components only in the order described below. Double-check all values before soldering,
There are three 9-pin "D" connectors (type DB9F) supplied with the kit, two female and one male. The
Locate two male/female hex standoffs and two brass nuts. Temporarily insert the standoffs through J1
SOLDER
(A)
Clamp J1 into a padded vise with the brass nuts facing up. An alternative is to temporarily attach J1 to the K2 top cover in its intended location, labeled "AUX I/O." Either method will hold J1 firmly while soldering in the next step.
Solder the brass nuts to the D-connector (J1) at the locations shown in Figure 1 (B). This is best accomplished by using the tip of your soldering iron to heat both the nut and flat portion of J1 at the same
time. If you cannot melt solder onto the brass nut after heating this junction for about 8-10 seconds, use a
larger iron. Avoid overheating the connector, which could melt the plastic surrounding the solder cups.
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(B)
Figure 1
Allow J1 and the brass nuts to cool, then remove the assembly from the vise.
Carefully remove the two hex standoffs. The nuts should remain firmly attached to J1. Note: If the
nuts should become loose during later assembly steps, they can be re-attached with the KIO2 in place.
Locate the larger of the two PC boards, labeled "KIO2" along one edge of the board. This is the top side of the board. Flip the board over, so that the side with the "ELECRAFT" label is facing up.
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In the following step, J1 may be a very tight fit onto the edge of the PC board. Press it on firmly,
but be careful not to bend any of the solder-cup pins.
must be no gap between J1's plastic body and the edge of the board. The bottom side of the board has four
pads, corresponding to the row of 4 pins on J1. The other side has 5 pads, matching J1's 5-pin row. Each solder-cup pin should be lined up as closely as possible with the center of its pad. Do not solder yet.
Press J1 (with the nuts attached) onto the notched edge of the KIO2 board as shown in Figure 2. There
Figure 2
Note: If you have a padded vise with wide jaws, such as a PC board vise, you can use it to hold J1 firmly
against the edge of the PC board.
Make sure J1 is perpendicular to the board before soldering. Solder just one pin to its corresponding pad, using a minimum of solder.
Re-check the position of J1. It must be pushed all the way on, and should be perpendicular to the board. Then solder the remaining pins of both rows.
Install D1 (1N4148) on the bottom side of the board, pre-forming the leads to fit the given location.
The cathode end of the diode, which has a band (or the widest band), must be oriented towards the banded end of the component outline. Solder D1, using a soldering time of about 1-2 seconds per lead.
Trim D1's leads as short as possible on the top side of the board after soldering.
Install D2, D3, and D4 in the same manner as D1. Note: D2's banded end faces the opposite direction of the other three diodes.
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Install C14 (56 pF), located near the "ELECRAFT" label. It must be seated as far down onto the PC
board as it can go, with no lead length exposed between the capacitor body and the board. Small
capacitors are fragile. Do not pull on the leads, and keep soldering time to about 1-2 seconds per lead.
Install electrolytic capacitor C8. Orient the capacitor's positive lead towards the (+) mark near the
component outline. C8 must be fully seated on the board before soldering.
Install R1 (3.9 k, ORG-WHT-RED) and R2 (47 ohms, YEL-VIO-BLK).
Install crystal X1. Make sure it is flat against the board before soldering. Use a minimum of solder.
Locate the ground pad near X1, identified by a small arrow between X1's leads on the top side of the board. Insert a discarded component lead through this pad, then fold it over the top of X1. Solder this lead at the ground pad, then solder it to the crystal can. Avoid overheating the crystal.
Install the capacitors listed below on the top side of the board. When soldering, be very careful not to touch adjacent components.
__ C1, __ C2, .001 µF (102) __ C3, __ C4, __ C5, __ C6, __ C7, __ C9, __ C11, __ C13, .01 µF (103) __ C10, 120 pF (120 or 121)
__ C12, __ C15, 0.1 µF (104)
Install the RF chokes listed below. These miniature RF chokes are very fragile. Do not pull on the leads, and keep soldering time to a minimum.
__ L1, 15 µH (BRN-GRN-BLK) __ L2, __ L3, __ L4, 100 µH (BRN-BLK-BRN)
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Touch a grounded, unpainted metal surface before handling ICs or transistors.
Install U1 (MAX1406CPE or LT1039CN16). The notched or dimpled end of the IC must be aligned with the notched end of the component outline (pin 1 can be identified by the round pad on the PC board). There is no need to trim the leads of U1.
Install Q1 (J310) and U2 (78L05), but do not solder yet.
Verify that Q1 and U2 are mounted in the correct locations, then solder.
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Wind 12 turns of #26 red enamel wire (7", 18 cm) on the FT23-43 toroid core (L5) as shown in Figure
3. Avoid scraping the wire against the core as you wind. The turns should occupy 80-90% of the core.
Figure 3
Trim the leads of L5 to about 1/2" long. Remove all of the enamel coating to within about 1/16"-1/8"
of the core, using a soldering iron to heat-strip the thermaleze wire. (An alternative is to use sandpaper.) Tin the leads, and make sure they appear clean and shiny.
Install and solder the toroid vertically as indicated by L5's component outline.
On the top side of the board, to the left of C7, you'll find a small arrow. This arrow identifies a pad for use in grounding the case of J1 (the DB9 connector). Insert a discarded component lead into this hole from the top side of the board, then solder it at this pad.
Fold the free end of this ground lead over the top of the DB9 connector case, keeping it well away from J1's pins. Solder the ground lead to the DB9 case. Trim excess lead length on both sides of the board.
AUX2 PC Board Assembly
Locate the smaller PC board, labeled "AUX2" on the bottom side.
On the top side of the board, install the following components:
__ C1 (0.1 µF, "104") __ C2 (.01 µF, "103") __ L1 (15 µH, BRN-GRN-BLK).
On the bottom side, install J1, a 10 pin female connector. Make sure J1 is flush with the board, then
solder one pin only on the top side.
If J1 is not flush with the board, re-heat the soldered pin while pushing down on the connector.
Solder the remaining pins of J1.
On the top side, install P1 (10-pin male connector). Make sure it is flush with the board, then solder.
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KIO2 to AUX2 Cable Assembly
Locate the 8-conductor shielded cable. This cable will be used to connect the KIO2 board to the AUX2 board as shown in Figure 4. Refer to this illustration during the next several assembly steps.
KIO2 PCB
BLUE GREEN
ORANGE
BARE
RED/BLK
WHITE/
BLK
J2
AUX2 PCB
BLUE
ORANGE
BARE
RED/BLK
WHITE/BLK
BLACK RED WHITE
GREEN
BLACK RED WHITE
J2
J1
U1
J2
8-CONDUCTOR
CABLE, 9" (23 cm)
J2
Figure 4
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P1
J2
Cut a 9" (23 cm) length of the 8-conductor cable. Note: 2 feet (60 cm) of the 8-conductor is supplied.
The extra cable can be used to make a replacement if the original becomes damaged.
Carefully remove 3/4" (2 cm) of the outer gray jacket from the cable. To avoid nicking the individual
conductors, proceed slowly, using a sharp tool to cut around the circumference of the jacket. It is OK to cut through the foil shield, which will be discarded.
Peel off and discard the thin foil shield surrounding the individual wires.
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In the steps that follow you'll be removing insulation from all wires in the cable. If you attempt to hold the individual wires with long-nose pliers during stripping, you may damage their insulation or pull the wires out of the jacket. An alternative method is given in the following step.
with a diameter of about 1" (2.5 cm). The knot will apply tension to keep the wires from slipping out.
end. Avoid nicking the stranded copper wires with the stripping tool.
of solder. Use just enough to keep the wires from coming unraveled. Any more than this may make the wire impossible to insert into the hole provided on the PC board.
J2. If it does not fit, you either did not twist the strands together cleanly, or you applied too much solder.
Otherwise you can lay the board on your work bench. Be careful not to damage crystal X1 or other components when clamping the board into a vise.
Temporarily make a single knot in the middle of the 8-conductor cable. It should look like a pretzel,
Choose any one of the eight insulated wires. Carefully remove 3/16" (5 mm) of insulation from one
Tightly twist the exposed strands of this wire together, then tin the strands using a very small amount
Test the wire you just prepared to see if it will fit into one of the holes provided on the KIO2 board, at
Strip 3/16" (5 mm) of insulation from each remaining insulated wire, at both ends of the cable.
Twist and tin the strands of each wire as you did above.
Twist and tin the strands of the bare wire. As with the other wires, use a minimum of solder.
Untie the knot in the cable.
If a small vise is available, clamp the KIO2 board into it in the orientation shown in Figure 4.
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CAUTION: Before proceeding, make sure you have the KIO2 board in the orientation
shown: J2's label and outline should be to the left, and the DB9 connector should be to the right. A
connector will not be used for J2; the wires will be soldered in place.
may be confused during assembly because the black stripes on the RED/BLK and WHITE/BLK wires are
not very prominent. To avoid confusing the striped and non-striped wires, separate out the striped wires
only and mark them with a heavy black dot using a felt pen.
The RED and RED/BLK wires in the cable, as well as the WHITE and WHITE/BLK wires,
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