Brother XR-9000 Operation Manual

KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE

SEWING BASICS

VARIOUS STITCHES

APPENDIX

Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support
and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this machine, carefully read the "IMPORTANT
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS", and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In
addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future
reference.

IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,

when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the

machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or

when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:

• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp

the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.

Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has

been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest

authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,

discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord.

When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing

machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could

cause injuries.

When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements,

otherwise you m ay injure your back or knees.

4 Always keep your work area clear:

• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

• Do not store objects on the foot controller.

• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.

• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.

• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.

• Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table,
otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

5 Special care is required when sewing:

• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.

• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.

• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.

• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

6 This machine is not a toy:

• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of
children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of
suffocation.

• Do not use outdoors.

7 For a longer service life:

• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

1

8 For repair or adjustment:

• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE,

MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the

mark, rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you
should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

FOR USERS IN AC INPUT 220-240V

COUNTRIES AND MEXICO

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory
or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision
or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should
be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

2

CONTENTS

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................5

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS .................................................... 5

The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 5

Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 6

Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 6

Operation panel ................................................................................................................................................ 7

Flat bed attachment ......................................................................................................................................... 7

ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................8

Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 8

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .....................................................................................9

Power supply precautions ................................................................................................................................ 9

Turning on the machine ................................................................................................................................... 9

Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................ 10

Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller) ......................................... 10

Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. 10

Changing the initial needle position ............................................................................................................... 11

Cancelling the operation beep ....................................................................................................................... 11

THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................12

Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 12

Lower threading ............................................................................................................................................. 15

Upper threading ............................................................................................................................................. 17

Drawing up the lower thread .......................................................................................................................... 20

REPLACING THE NEEDLE ................................................................................................. 21

Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ 21

Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... 21

Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 22

Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 22

Sewing with a twin needle .............................................................................................................................. 24

REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ......................................................................................25

Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. 25

Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. 26

2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................27

SEWING ............................................................................................................................27

General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................. 27

Selecting a stitch ............................................................................................................................................ 28

Starting to sew ............................................................................................................................................... 29

Adjusting thread tension ................................................................................................................................. 31

USEFUL SEWING TIPS ...................................................................................................... 32

Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 32

Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 32

Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ 32

Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... 32

Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................................................................................... 33

Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... 34

Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... 34

Using a free-arm style .................................................................................................................................... 34

3

—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

3. VARIOUS STITCHES .....................................................................................35

STITCH SETTINGS ............................................................................................................. 35

Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 35

Character stitches (for models equipped with character stitches) .................................................................. 41

OVERCASTING STITCHES ................................................................................................42

BASIC STITCHING ............................................................................................................43

Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................ 43

BLIND HEM STITCHING .................................................................................................. 44

BUTTONHOLE SEWING ...................................................................................................46

Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 49

ZIPPER INSERTION ...........................................................................................................51

SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ............................................................ 52

Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 52

Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. 52

APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ........................................................ 53

Appliqués ....................................................................................................................................................... 53

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 54

Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... 54

Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... 55

Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... 56

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING .........................................................................................57

Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... 57

Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 57

DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................ 59

Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... 60

Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 61

Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... 61

Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 62

Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 62

Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 63

SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches) ............................64

Selecting characters ....................................................................................................................................... 64

Checking characters ...................................................................................................................................... 66

Deleting characters ........................................................................................................................................ 66

Sewing the character stitches ........................................................................................................................ 67

ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models equipped with character stitches) .............................68

4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................70

MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................70

Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 70

Cleaning the bobbin case ............................................................................................................................... 70

TROUBLESHOOTING .......................................................................................................72

ERROR MESSAGES ............................................................................................................75

Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) .................................................................... 75

INDEX ...............................................................................................................................76

4

1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

The main parts

1

a Bobbin winder (page 12)

This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the
lower thread.

b Spool pin (pages 12 and 17)

This holds the spool of thread.

c Hole for extra spool pin (page 24)

This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with two
needles. Not for lubrication.

d Upper tension-control dial (page 31)

This controls the tension of the upper thread.

e Thread guide (pages 12 and 17)

This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin
and then threading the machine.

f Thread take-up lever (page 18)
g Thread cutter (page 30)

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

h Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment

(pages 7 and 34)

i Operation buttons (page 6)

The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing
machine model.

j Operation panel (page 7)

This is used to select the stitch and specify the various
settings.

k Handwheel

Used to manually raise and lower the needle.

l Main power and sewing light switch (page 9)

You can turn the main power and sewing light switch
on and off.

m Jack/socket connector (page 9)

Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the jack/
socket connector.

n Foot controller jack/socket (page 10)

Plug in the foot controller plug.

o Feed dog position lever (pages 49 and 56)

Use the feed dog position lever to lower the feed dogs.

p Presser foot lever (page 17)

Used to raise and lower the presser foot.

q Foot controller (page 10)

You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to
start and stop sewing.

r Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.

5

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

Needle and presser foot section

d Presser foot holder screw

Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser
foot holder in place.

e Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.

f Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

g Quick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the quick-

set bobbin)

You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.

h Bobbin cover

Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.

i Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing

a Buttonhole lever

Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.

b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle

threader) (page 18)

c Presser foot holder

The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.

straight seams.

j Needle bar thread guide

Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.

k Needle clamp screw

Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.

Operation buttons

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.

a Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.

b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping
the button pressed down to sew in the opposite
direction. For details, refer to “Sewing reinforcement
stitches” (page 30).

■ Buttons provided on some models

c Start/stop button (for models equipped with the

start/stop button)

Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to “Starting to sew” (page 29).

d Needle position button (for models equipped with

the needle position button)

Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.

e Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the

sewing speed controller)

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.

6

Operation panel

The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and specify how
the stitch will be sewn.

3

ABC

1

a LCD (liquid crystal display)

The number of the selected stitch (
to be used (
stitch width (mm) (

b Stitch selection keys

Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the
number for the stitch that you wish to use. For details,
refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 28).

c Stitch length adjustment key

Press this key to adjust the stitch length.

(For models equipped with the character stitch key)
Press this key to check the combined characters. For
details, refer to “Checking characters” (page 66).

d Stitch width adjustment key

Press this key to adjust the stitch width.

(For models equipped with the character stitch key)
Press this key to add or delete characters. For details,
refer to “SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped
with character stitches)” (page 64).

2), the stitch length (mm) (3), and the

4) are displayed here.

1), the presser foot

■ Keys and indicators provided on some models

e Utility stitch key

Press this key to sew utility stitches. For details, refer to
“Selecting a stitch” (page 28) .

f Utility stitch indicator

This indicator lights up when the utility stitch key is
pressed.

g Character stitch key

Press this key to sew character stitches. For details, refer
to “SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with
character stitches)” (page 64).

h Character stitch indicator

This indicator lights up when the character stitch key is
pressed.

Flat bed attachment

The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment.

Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to open it.

a

a Flat bed attachment
b Storage compartment

Note

● Put the accessories in the bag, and then store the bag inside the compartment. If the accessories are not
in a bag, they may fall out, and be lost or damaged.

7

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

ACCESSORIES

The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you
be able to carry out most sewing tasks.

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

● Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on this machine model XR-9000.

● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

9. 10.

75/11 1 needle
90/14 1 needle
100/16 1 needle

No. Part Name

1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033 9 Bobbin (4) SA156
2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-031 10 Needle set XC8834-021
3 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 11 Twin needle 131096-121

4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 12

5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-031 13 Cleaning brush X59476-021
6 Blind stitch foot “R” XC4051-031 14 Screwdriver XC8349-021
7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2137-001 15 Extra spool pin 130920-021

8 Seam ripper X54243-051 16 Foot controller

11. 12.

Part Code

U.S.A. / Canada

90/14 1 needle

Others

13. 14. 15. 16.

No. Part Name

Ball point needle
(gold colored)

Part Code

U.S.A. / Canada

XD0360-021

XD0501-021 (EU area)

XC8816-021 (Other areas)

Optional accessories

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Others

XA5539-151

No. Part Name

1 Walking Foot SA140 F033N 4 Quilting guide SA132 F016N
2 Quilting Foot SA129 F005N 5 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001

1/4-Inch Quilting

3

Foot

U.S.A. / Canada

Part Code

Others

SA125 F001N

No. Part Name

U.S.A. / Canada

Part Code

8

Others

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING

● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in
fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power
supply jack on the machine.

● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

CAUTION

● Use only the power cord included with this machine.

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire

or electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

●

When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from
the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled.
Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the
cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your
authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

●

Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

1

Turning on the machine

Insert the plug into a wall outlet.

a

a Main power switch
b Jack/socket connector

Set the main power switch to “I”.

b

X The sewing lamp comes on when the

machine is turned on.

To turn off the machine, set the main power

c

switch to “{”.

X The sewing lamp goes off when the

machine is turned off.

Note

● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.

(For U.S.A. only)

● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electric shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
not modify the plug in any way.

9

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

Foot controller

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on
the rear side of the sewing machine.

a Foot controller jack/socket

CAUTION

● When connecting the foot controller, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.

When you press the foot controller down lightly, the
machine will run at a low speed. When you press
harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you
take your foot off the foot controller, the machine
will stop.

Slower

Sewing speed controller
(for models equipped with
the sewing speed controller)

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

a

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

a Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.

Changing the needle stop position

Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in
the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can
be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

Faster

You should make sure that nothing is placed on the
foot controller when the machine is not in use.

CAUTION

● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build
up on the foot controller. Doing so could
cause a fire or an electric shock.

Note

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).

10

Hold down the “–” side of (stitch selection

b

key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.

After turning on the sewing machine, release

the “–” side of (stitch selection key).

X The needle stop position changes to the

raised position.

Memo

• Perform the same operation to change the
needle stop position to the lowered position.

Changing the initial needle
position

Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected when the sewing machine is
turned on. The machine can be set so that the
straight stitch (center needle position) is
automatically selected when it is turned on.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

Hold down the “+” side of (stitch selection

b

key) on the left and turn on the sewing
machine.

After turning on the sewing machine, release

the “+” side of (stitch selection key).

Cancelling the operation beep

When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
beep each time a key is pressed. This setting can be
changed so that the machine does not beep.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

Hold down the “–” side of (stitch width

b

adjustment key) and turn on the sewing
machine.

After turning on the sewing machine, release
the “-” side of (stitch width adjustment
key).

1

X The initial needle position changes to

the center needle position.

Memo

• The specified initial needle position is
maintained even after the machine is turned
off.

• Perform the same operation to change the
initial needle position to the left needle
position.

X The machine is now set so that it will

not beep.

11

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.

• For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 14.

1 Pulling it in as far as

possible.

a Pre-tension disk
b Bobbin winder shaft
c Bobbin

CAUTION

● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB) that have been designed for this sewing machine. Using other
bobbins may cause damage to the machine.

● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the
machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the
same type (part code: SA156, SFB).

Actual size

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model Other models

Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and

a

then put a spool of thread on this pin.

Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft

d

and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the

Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk.

b

spring on the shaft slides into the groove of
the bobbin.

CAUTION

● If the spool of thread is not in the right place,
the thread may tangle on the spool pin.

Pass the end of the thread through the hole on

c

the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.

1

a Spring on the shaft
b Groove of the bobbin

2

12

Turn on the sewing machine.

e

While holding the end of the thread, gently

f

press the foot controller or press (start/
stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to wind the thread around
the bobbin a few times. Then stop the
machine.

Note

● If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).

Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.

g

CAUTION

● Make sure you follow the instructions
carefully. If you do not cut the thread
completely, and the bobbin is wound, when
the thread runs low it may tangle around the
bobbin and cause the needle to break.

Press the foot controller or press (start/

i

stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to start.

When the bobbin seems full and begins

j

spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot
controller or press (start/stop button) (for
models equipped with the start/stop button).

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

k

to the left and remove the bobbin.

Slide the sewing speed controller back to its

l

original position (for models equipped with
the sewing speed controller).

Memo

● When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.

● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

CAUTION

● Not winding the bobbin properly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, and may break
the needle.

1

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

h

(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped
with the sewing speed controller).

a Sewing speed controller

1

a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly

2

13

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

■ For models equipped with the fast bobbin
winding system

Follow steps 1 through 2 of the procedure in

a

“Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread
around the pre-tension disk (page 12).

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft

b

so that the spring on the shaft fits into the
notch in the bobbin.

a Notch
b Bobbin winder shaft spring

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

c

While holding the thread that wraps around the

d

pre-tension disk with your left hand, use your
right hand to wind the free end of the thread
clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

f

(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped
with the sewing speed controller).

a Sewing speed controller

Turn on the sewing machine.

g

Press the foot controller or press (start/

h

stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to start.

Note

● If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).

When the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take

i

your foot off the foot controller or press
(start/stop button) (for models equipped with
the start/stop button).

Pull the thread to the right and pass it through

e

the slit in the bobbin winder seat.

a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)

X The thread is cut to a suitable length.

CAUTION

Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is

●

wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built
into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may
become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend
or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.

14

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

j

to the left and remove the bobbin.

Slide the sewing speed controller back to its

k

original position (for models equipped with
the sewing speed controller).

CAUTION

●

Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the
thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle

1

a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly

2

.

Memo

1

● When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.

● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

Lower threading

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

• For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 16.

CAUTION

● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, breaking the
needle and resulting in injury.

1

a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly

● The bobbin was designed specifically for this
sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate
correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156,
SFB).

Actual size

2

Slide the button and open the cover.

b

a Cover
b Slide button

Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in

c

the direction shown by the arrow.

• Only use bobbins that were designed to be
used with this machine.

12

CAUTION

● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin

d

down with your finger, and then pass the
thread through the slit, as shown.

• If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension
(page 31).

1

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model Other models

CAUTION

● Make sure you turn the power off while
threading the machine. If you accidentally
step on the foot controller and the machine
starts to sew, you could be injured.

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning

a

the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
press (needle position button) (for models
equipped with the needle position button), and
raise the presser foot lever.

a Tension-adjusting spring

15

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in

e

place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on
the right side (see arrow b) until the cover
clicks into place.

• Replace the cover so that the end of the
thread comes out from the left side of the
cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).

■ For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning

a

the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
press (needle position button) (for models
equipped with the needle position button), and
raise the presser foot lever.

Slide the button and open the cover.

b

12

• If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension
(page 31).

1

a Tension-adjusting spring

Memo

● The order that the bobbin thread should be

passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure
to thread the machine as indicated.

a Cover
b Slide button

Put the bobbin in, feed the end of the thread

c

through the slit, and then pull the thread to cut it.

• Only use bobbins that were designed to be
used with this machine.

CAUTION

● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

1

Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in

d

place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on
the right side (see arrow b) until the cover
clicks into place.

Memo

● You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want
to draw up the bobbin thread before you
start to sew, follow the procedure in
“Drawing up the lower thread” (page 20).

16

a Cutter

Upper threading

Set the upper thread and thread the needle.

• For details on the needle threader, see page 18.

a Spool pin
b Thread guide
c Mark on the handwheel

1

CAUTION

● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tangle and break the needle.

Raise the presser foot using the presser foot

a

lever.

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

b

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up, or press
(needle position button) (for models equipped
with the needle position button) once or twice
to raise the needle.

or

a Presser foot lever

a Mark b Needle position button

• If the needle is not correctly raised, the

sewing machine can not be threaded. Be
sure to turn the handwheel so that the mark
on the wheel points up before threading the
sewing machine.

17

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and

c

then put a spool of thread on this pin.

Note

● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the

CAUTION

upper thread cannot be wrapped around the
thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise

● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or
is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on
the spool pin and cause the needle to break.

the presser foot lever and the thread take-up
lever before you feed the upper thread.

● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.

Feed the upper thread as shown in the figure

d

on the previous page.

■ Using the needle threader (for models

Make sure you guide the thread through the

e

thread take-up lever from right to left.

equipped with the needle threader)

CAUTION

● The needle threader can only be used with
home sewing machine needles size 75/11­100/16. Check the table on page 21 for the
appropriate needle and thread combinations.
If you are using transparent nylon mono-

a Thread take-up lever

Put the thread behind the needle bar thread

f

guide above the needle.

The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand.

filament thread, you can only use needles in
the range of 90/14-100/16.

● You cannot use the needle threader if you are
using decorative threads or special needles,
such as the twin needle and wing needle.
If you are using those types of threads or
needles, thread the eye of the needle by hand.
Make sure the main power switch is off when
threading the needle by hand.

a Needle bar thread guide

Thread the needle from front to back and pull

g

out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread.

a 5 cm (2 inch)

Follow steps 1 through 6 of the procedure in

a

“Upper threading” to thread the machine to
the needle bar thread guide.

Lower the presser foot lever.

b

While lowering the needle threader lever,

c

hook the thread onto the guide.

a Needle holder
b Needle threader lever
c Guide

18

Fully lower the needle threader lever.

d

X The end of the needle threader rotates

toward you and the hook passes
through the eye of the needle.

Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.

e

Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread through

g

the needle toward the back of the sewing
machine.

a 5 cm (2 inch)

Note

● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.

1

a Hook
b Thread

While lightly holding the thread, release the

f

needle threader lever. The hook will pull the
thread through the needle.

19

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

Drawing up the lower thread

Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.

a

a Upper thread

While holding the end of the upper thread,

b

raise the needle either by turning the
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so
that the mark on the wheel points up or by
pressing (needle position button) (for
models equipped with the needle position
button) once or twice.

or

Pull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads

d

and pull them toward the back of the machine
under the presser foot.

a Upper thread
b Lower thread

■ For models equipped with the quick-set
bobbin

You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing
gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower
thread by hand so that some thread will be left
over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put
the bobbin back in.

Pass the thread along the slit in the direction

a

of the arrow, and leave it there without
cutting it.

a Mark b Needle position button

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower

c

thread.

a Upper thread
b Lower thread

• The bobbin cover should still be removed.

Draw up the lower thread as described in

b

steps 1 to 4.

Replace the bobbin cover.

c

20

REPLACING THE NEEDLE

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

CAUTION

● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the
machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

1

Fabric Type/Application

Medium weight

fabrics

Thin fabrics

Thick fabrics

Stretch fabrics

Easily frayed fabrics

For top-stitching

Thread

Type Size

Broadcloth Cotton thread

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50

Lawn Cotton thread

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50

Denim Cotton thread

Corduroy Synthetic thread

Tweed Silk thread

Jersey

Tricot

Thread for knits 50–60

Cotton thread

Silk thread 50

Synthetic thread

Silk thread

60–90

60–90

30 100/16

50

50–60

50–90

50 90/14–100/16

Size of Needle

75/11–90/14

65/9–75/11

90/14–100/16

Ball point needle

(gold colored)

75/11–90/14

65/9–90/14Synthetic thread

Memo

● The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the
needle.

● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.

● A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased.

21

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

CAUTION

● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table on the
previous page. If the combination of the
fabric, thread and needle is not correct,
particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such
as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to
75/11), the needle may bend or break. In
addition, the stitching may be uneven or
puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.

1

2

Replacing the needle

Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined
to be straight according to the instructions in
“Checking the needle” .

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

a

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or
twice.)

or

a Mark b Needle position button

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

a Flat side
b Needle type marking

■ Correct needle

1

a Flat surface

■ Incorrect needle

If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.

1

a Flat surface

CAUTION

● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn
off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries
may occur if the foot controller or the start/
stop button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.

Lower the presser foot lever.

c

a Presser foot lever

22

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then

d

use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw counterclockwise to remove the
needle.

While holding the needle with your left hand,

f

use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw by turning it clockwise.

Note

● The needle can be removed by simply
loosening the needle clamp screw about
one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is
loosened too much, the needle clamp
(which holds the needle) may fall off.
Therefore, do not loosen the needle clamp
screw too much.)

a Screwdriver
b Needle clamp screw

• Do not apply strong force when loosening or

tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.

1

Install the twin needle in the same way.

CAUTION

● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches
the needle stopper and securely tighten the
needle clamp screw with the screwdriver,
otherwise the needle may break or damage
may result.

With the flat side of the needle toward the

e

rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.

a Needle stopper

23

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

Sewing with a twin needle

We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same
color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “STITCH SETTINGS” (page 35).

CAUTION

● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 131096-121). Other needles
could break, and damage the machine.

● Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.

● You can not use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand,

from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or
the machine may be damaged.

● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that
the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.

● When changing the sewing direction, be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. If the fabric is
turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.

■ Twin needle threading

Attach the twin needle.

a

Attach the twin needle in the same way as a
single needle (page 22).

Attach the extra spool pin.

b

Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of
the machine. Put the second spool of thread
onto the extra spool pin.

a First spool
b Second spool

Use the thread from the first spool to thread

c

the machine to the needle bar thread guide.

The path for threading the machine to the
needle bar thread guide is the same as for
normally threading the machine (for a single
needle). See page 18 for more details.

Thread the left needle from front to back.

d

Use the thread from the second spool to thread

e

the machine to the thread take-up lever.

The path for threading the machine to the
thread take-up lever is the same as for normally
threading the machine (for a single needle).
See page 18 for more details.

Thread the right needle from front to back.

f

Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar
thread guide.

a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar

thread guide.

b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle

bar thread guide.

c Needle bar thread guide

Note

(

For models equipped with a needle threader

● You cannot use the needle threader to
thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the
twin needle by hand, from front to back.
Using the needle threader may damage the
machine.

CAUTION

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach
zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may
break or the machine may be damaged.

)

24

REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT

CAUTION

● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the
controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.

● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser
foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.

● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using other any presser feet
may cause an accident or injury.

Press the black button at the back of the

d

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below.

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

a

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)

or

a Mark b Needle position button

If the sewing machine has been turned on,

b

turn it off.

presser foot holder to release the presser foot.

a Black button
b Presser foot holder

Place a different presser foot below the holder

e

so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
shank in the holder.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to
be read.

1

CAUTION

● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the foot controller or the
start/stop button is accidentally pressed and
the machine starts sewing.

Raise the presser foot lever.

c

a Presser foot lever

a Presser foot holder
b Shank
c Pin

Note

● The presser foot to be used with each stitch
appears in the LCD. To select a stitch, refer
to “Selecting a stitch” (page 28).

25

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————

—

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the

f

presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the
presser foot holder.

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is attached.

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

g

presser foot is securely attached.

Removing the presser foot
holder

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

Align the presser foot holder with the lower-

a

left side of the presser bar.

a Presser foot holder
b Presser bar

Hold the presser foot holder in place with

b

your right hand, and then tighten the screw
using the screwdriver in your left hand.

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.

■ Removing the presser foot holder

Remove the presser foot.

a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 25).

Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot

b

holder screw.

a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw

a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw

Note

● If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be
incorrect.

26

2 SEWING BASICS

SEWING

Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION

● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your
hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.

● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may
break.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

2

Turn on the

1

machine.

2 Select the stitch.

Attach the presser

3

foot.

4 Start sewing.

Turn on the sewing machine.
For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine”
(page 9).

p

Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 28).

p

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.
For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 25).

p

Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the
threads.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 29).

27

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Attach the presser foot indicated on the LCD.

Selecting a stitch

d

Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired
stitch.
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight
stitch ( left needle position) is selected.

■ [Example] Selecting stitch (No. 04)

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

a The presser foot to use

• For details, refer to
foot” (page 25)

If necessary, press the “+” or “–” side of

e

(stitch length adjustment key) to increase or

“Replacing the presser

.

reduce the stitch length.

(For models equipped with the character

b

stitch key)
Confirm that the utility stitch indicator is lit. If
it is not lit, press the utility stitch key.

ABC

ABC

a Utility stitch key
b Utility stitch indicator

a Stitch length adjustment key
b Short
c Long

If necessary, press the “+” or “–” side of

f

(stitch width adjustment key) to increase or
reduce the stitch width.

Press (stitch selection keys) to select

c

pattern No. 04.

Press the “+” or “–” side of to increase or

reduce the number

a Pattern No. of the selected stitch
b Changes the digit on the left.
c Changes the digit on the right.

.

X The stitch is selected.

Memo

●

The mark “ “ appears on the LCD when a
stitch that is programmed with the automatic
reinforcement stitching setting is selected.

a Stitch width adjustment key
b Narrow
c Wide

Note

● When the stitch length or stitch width is

changed from the auto setting, the
around the or disappears from the
LCD. When the stitch length or stitch width
is reset back to the auto setting, the
reappears around or on the LCD.

● If the stitch width of the selected stitch

cannot be adjusted, “--” appears to the right
of the on the LCD.

28

When you have finished making adjustments,

g

start sewing.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
page 29)

(

.

Memo

● For details on selecting character stitches,

refer to “Selecting characters”

(page 64)

Starting to sew

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

a

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark
on the wheel points up. (With models equipped
with (needle position button), raise the

.

needle by pressing once or twice.)

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.

● If the stitches are bunched together, increase
the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the
stitches bunched together may cause the
needle to bend or break.

or

a Mark b Needle position button

Raise the presser foot lever.

b

a Presser foot lever

Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass

c

the thread under the presser foot, and then
pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward
the rear of the machine.

2

a 5 cm (2 inch)

While holding the end of the thread and the

d

fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) with your
right hand to lower the needle to the starting
point of the stitching.

29

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Lower the presser foot lever.

e

a Presser foot lever

On models equipped with a sewing speed

f

controller, slide the sewing speed controller
to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed.
Refer to “Sewing speed controller (for models
equipped with the sewing speed controller)”
(page 10).

a Sewing speed controller

Slowly press down on the foot controller.

g

(With models equipped with (start/stop
button), if the foot controller is not connected,
press once.)

or

Raise the presser foot lever.

j

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,

k

and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.

a Thread cutter

Memo

● When the foot controller is plugged in,
(start/stop button) cannot be used to start
sewing.
When sewing is stopped, the needle remains

●

lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needles stay up when
sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the
needle stop position” (page 10).

■ Sewing reinforcement stitches

When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag
stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,
pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top
of each other.

a Start/stop button

X The machine starts sewing.

Take your foot off the foot controller, or press

h

(start/stop button) once (if the machine
was started by pressing (start/stop button))
(for models equipped with the start/stop
button).

X The machine stops sewing.

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

i

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or
twice.)

30

1

a Reverse stitching
b Reinforcement stitching

2

Memo

● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “STITCH
SETTINGS” (page 35).

Adjusting thread tension

The thread tension will affect the quality of your
stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change
fabric or thread.

Memo

● We recommend that you do a test sample
on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.

■ Correct tension

Correct tension is important as too much or too
little tension will weaken your seams or cause
puckers on your fabric.

1

a Wrong side

2

3

4

■ Upper tension is too tight

Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.

b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread

Memo

● When you finish sewing, remove the
bobbin cover and then make sure that the
thread is shown as below. If the thread is
not shown as below, the thread is not
inserted through the tension-adjusting
spring of the bobbin case correctly. Reinsert
the thread correctly. For details, refer to
page 15, 16.

2

■ Upper tension is too loose

Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.

Note

● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.
In this case, refer to
(page 15)

and rethread the bobbin thread.

1

2

3

5

4

Solution
Reduce the tension by turning the upper
tension-control dial to a lower number.

“Lower threading”

a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
e Loops appear on

surface of fabric

4

3

5

Note

● If the upper thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too
loose. In this case, refer to
threading” (page 17)
thread.

1

5

2

3

4

Solution
Increase the tension by turning the upper
tension-control dial to a higher number.

4

5

“Upper

and rethread the upper

a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
e Loops appear on

wrong side of
fabric

3

31

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

USEFUL SEWING TIPS

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.

Lower the presser foot lever and continue

c

Trial sewing

After you select a stitch, the machine automatically
sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is
selected.
However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,
depending on the type of fabric and stitching being
sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing
direction

sewing.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve.

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

a

sewing machine.

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle was raised, lower the needle either by
turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) or by pressing (needle
position button) once (for models equipped
with the needle position button).

CAUTION

● When using the twin needle, be sure to raise
the needle before changing the sewing
direction. If the fabric is turned while the
needle is lowered, the needle may bend or
break.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the

b

fabric.

Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

Sewing thick fabrics

■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.

32

■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching

Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that
keeps the presser foot level.

a Sewing direction

When you encounter a seam that is too thick

a

to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
lever.

Sewing hook-and-loop
fastener

CAUTION

● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop
fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is
attached to the needle or the bobbin hook
race, it may cause malfunction.

● If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with the
thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may
bend or break.

2

Press the black button on the left side of the

b

foot. Keep the button held in and lower the
presser foot.

a Black button

Release the button. The foot will lock in place

c

level with the seam, allowing the fabric to
feed.

• Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.

Note

● Before start sewing, baste together the fabric
and the hook-and-loop fastener.

Make sure that the needle passes through the hook­and-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and
lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener
before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hook­and-loop fastener at a slow speed.
If the needle does not pass through the hook-and­loop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for
thick fabrics (

page 21

a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener

).

CAUTION

● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is
sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much
force, the needle may bend or break.

33

SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If
this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material
under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess
paper.

a Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.

a Basting

Using a free-arm style

Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular
and hard-to-reach areas. To change your machine to
the free-arm style, lift out the flat bed attachment.

Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to

a

release it.

a Flat bed attachment

34

3 VARIOUS STITCHES

STITCH SETTINGS

Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for stitches in the
following table.

CAUTION

● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.

Utility stitches

3

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Straight

Triple

stretch stitch

Stretch stitch J 03030303030303

Zigzag stitch J 04040404040404

3-point zig-

zag stitch

Overcasting

stitch

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

100 stitches

Left J 00000000000000

Center

J 01010101010101

J 02020202020202

J 05050505050505

G 06060606060606

G 07070707070707

J 08080808080808

J 090909 - - - -

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

model

40 stitches

model

Application

Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.

Attaching zippers, basic
stitching, and sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.

Attaching sleeves,
sewing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and
decorative stitching

Sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitching

Overcasting and
attaching appliqués

Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch
fabrics, attaching
elastic, darning, etc.

Overcasting on thin or
medium weight fabrics

Overcasting on thick
fabrics

Overcasting on stretch
fabrics

Overcasting on thick or
stretch fabrics

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

1.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

/

)

Rev.

(

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

Yes

*

Yes Rev.

( J )

Yes

*

Yes Rev.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

*

Yes

Yes Rev.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

)

Rfc.

(

Stitching

Reinforcement

35

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Blind hem

stitch

Appliqué

stitch

Shell tuck

stitch

Satin scallop

stitch

Joining stitch

Smocking

stitch

Fagoting

stitch

Elastic-

attaching

stitch

Decorative

stitch

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

100 stitches

R 10101009090909

R 11111110101010

J 12121211111111Appliqué stitching

J 13 13 13 12 12 12 12 Shell tuck stitching

N 14 14 14 13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching

J 15151514141414

J 16161615151515

J 17171716161616

J 181818 - - - -

J 19191917171717

J 20202018181818

J 212121 - - - -

J 22222219191919Decorative stitching

J 23232320202020Decorative stitching

J 24 24 24 21 21 21 – Decorative stitching

25 25 25 22 22 22 21

N

N 26262623232322

N 27272724242423

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

36

Application

model

Blind hem stitching on
medium weight fabrics

Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics

Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching

Patchwork stitching,
decorative stitching and
sewing overcasting on
both pieces of fabrics,
such as with tricot

Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching

Smocking stitching and
decorative stitching

Fagoting, smocking and
decorative stitching

Fagoting, smocking and
decorative stitching

Attaching elastic to
stretch fabrics

Decorative stitching
and elastic-attaching

Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

0 (0)

-3mo3

0 (0)

-3mo3

3.5 (1/8)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

2.5-7.0

(3/32-1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

2.5-7.0

(3/32-1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

5.5 (7/32)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/64-1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

6.0 (15/64)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

2.5 (3/32)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.1-1.0

(1/64-1/16)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

3.0 (1/8)

2.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.6-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

3.0 (1/8)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

/

)

Rev.

(

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc

( J )

No No Rfc.

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Decorative

stitch

Buttonhole

stitch

Bar tack

stitch

Piecing

straight

stitch

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

100 stitches

N 282828252525 –

N 29292926262624

N 303030272727 –

N 313131282828 –

N 323232 - - - -

N 333333 - - - -

A 34343429292925

A 35353530303026

A 36363631313127

A 37373732323228

A 38 38 38 - - - - Bound buttonholes

A 39393933333329

A 4040403434 – –

A 4141413535 – –

A 42424236363430

J 4343433737 - -

J 4444443838 - -

70 stitches

***Auto Rfc.:Automatic Reinforcement

Walking Foot

/

)

Rev.

(

Reverse

***

Auto

Rfc.

***

Auto

Rfc.

***

Auto

Rfc.

***

Auto

Rfc.

***

Auto

Rfc.

***

Auto

Rfc.

***

Auto

Rfc.

***

Auto

Rfc.

***

Auto

Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

3

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Application

model

model

model

60 stitches

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight
and plain weave fab­rics, heirloom stitching,
etc.

Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight
and plain weave fab­rics, heirloom stitching,
etc.

Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight
and plain weave fab­rics, heirloom stitching,
etc.

Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight
and plain weave fab­rics, heirloom stitching,
etc.

Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.

Horizontal buttonholes
on thin and medium
weight fabrics

Secured buttonholes for
fabrics that have back­ings

Buttonholes for stretch
or knit fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for
medium weight and
thick fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics

Reinforcing openings
and areas where the
seam easily comes
loose

Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5mm from the right
edge of the presser foot)

Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5mm
from the left edge of the
presser foot)

Auto

Manual

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

6.0 (15/64)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4

5.0 (3/16)

3.0-5.0

(1/8-3/16)

5.0 (3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8-3/16)

6.0 (15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8-15/64)

6.0 (15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8-15/64)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16-1/8)

5.5 (7/32)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

1.5 (1/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

3.5 (1/8)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

4.0 (3/16)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.2-1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32-1/16)

1.5 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16-1/8)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64-3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

Twin Needle

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No

No No

No No

No No

No No

No No

No No

No No

No No

No Yes Rfc.

No Yes Rfc.

37

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Stitch Name

Hand-look

quilting

Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)

Appliqué

stitch

(for quilting)

Quilting

stippling

Decorative

stitch

Pattern No.

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

100 stitches

J 45454539393531

J 4646464040 - -

J 4747474141 - -

J 4848484242 - -

J 4949494343 - -

N 505050 - - - -For decoration, etc.

N51------For decoration, etc.

N52------For decoration, etc.

N 53 51 - - - - - For decoration, etc.

N 545251 - - - -For decoration, etc.

N 55535244443632For decoration, etc.

N 56 54 - - - - - For decoration, etc.

N 57 55 - - - - - For decoration, etc.

N58------For decoration, etc.

N 59565345453733For decoration, etc.

N 605754464638 -For decoration, etc.

N61------For decoration, etc.

N 62 58 - - - - - For decoration, etc.

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches

Application

model

Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn

Appliqué quilting, free­motion quilting, satin
stitching, button sewing

Attaching appliqués
and binding

Attaching appliqués
and binding

Quilting background
stitching (stippling)

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

1.5 (1/16)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8)

1.5 (1/16)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8))

7.0 (1/4)

1.0–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

3.0 (1/8)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.8 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.8 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64-3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

/

)

Rev.

(

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

No No Rfc.

No Yes Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

38

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Decorative

stitch

Satin

stitches

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

100 stitches

N 63595547 - - -For decoration, etc.

N 64 60 - - - - - For decoration, etc.

N 656156484739 -For decoration, etc.

N 666257494840 -For decoration, etc.

N 67635850 - - -For decoration, etc.

N 68645951494134For decoration, etc.

N 69656052 - - -For decoration, etc.

N 70666153 - - -For decoration, etc.

N71------For decoration, etc.

N 726762 - - - -For decoration, etc.

N 73 68 - - - - - For decoration, etc.

N 74696354 - - -For decoration, etc.

N 7570645550 - -For decoration, etc.

N 7671655651 - -For decoration, etc.

N 777266 - - - -For decoration, etc.

N 78736758 - - -For decoration, etc.

N 79 74 - - - - - For decoration, etc.

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

Walking Foot

)

/

)

Rfc.

(

Rev.

(

Stitching

Reverse

Reinforcement

3

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Application

model

Auto

Manual

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

Twin Needle

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

**

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

39

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Stitch Name

Satin

stitches

Pattern No.

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

100 stitches

N 80756859534335For decoration, etc.

N81------For decoration, etc.

N 82766960544436For decoration, etc.

N 837770615545 -For decoration, etc.

N 84787162564637For decoration, etc.

N 85797263 - - -For decoration, etc.

N 86807364 - - -For decoration, etc.

N 878174575242 -For decoration, etc.

N 88 82 - - - - - For decoration, etc.

N89------For decoration, etc.

N90------For decoration, etc.

N91------For decoration, etc.

N92------For decoration, etc.

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches

Application

model

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

Yes

( J )

**

**

**

**

**

**

**

**

**

**

Twin Needle

**

**

**

/

)

Rev.

(

Walking Foot

Reverse

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

40

Stitch Name

Cross-

stitches

Pattern No.

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

100 stitches

N 93 83 - - - - - For decoration, etc.

N 94847565 - - -For decoration, etc.

N 95857666574738For decoration, etc.

N 96 86 - - - - - For decoration, etc.

N 97877767 - - -For decoration, etc.

N 988878685848 -For decoration, etc.

N 99897969594939For decoration, etc.

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches

Application

model

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

/

)

Rev.

(

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

3

Character stitches (for models equipped with character stitches)

Stitch Type

Character stitches

Presser Foot

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

N

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

51 52 53 54 55

Pattern No.

Twin Needle

No -

Stitch width/

Stitch Length

41

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

OVERCASTING STITCHES

You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also
useful for sewing stretch materials.

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Zigzag stitch J04040404040404

3-point zig-

zag stitch

Overcasting

stitch

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

100 stitches

J05050505050505

G06060606060606

G07070707070707

J08080808080808

J090909 - - - -

80 stitches

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

model

40 stitches

*Do not use reverse stitching.

Application

model

Overcasting and attach­ing appliqués

Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fab­rics, attaching elastic,
darning, etc.

Overcasting on thin or
medium weight fabrics

Overcasting on thick
fabrics

Overcasting on stretch
fabrics

Overcasting on thick or
stretch fabrics

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

Twin Needle

Yes
( J )

Yes
( J )

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

Yes
( J )

Yes
( J )

/

)

Rev.

(

Walking Foot

Reverse

*

Yes Rev.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

Attach overcasting foot “G” or zigzag foot “J”.

a

Select a stitch.

b

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 28).

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric

c

against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.

a Guide

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the

d

presser foot guide.

1

a Needle drop point

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.

42

BASIC STITCHING

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Straight

Center

Triple

stretch stitch

Pattern

Presser Foot

Left J 00000000000000

J 01010101010101

J 02020202020202

model

model

100 stitches

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

*Do not use reverse stitching.

Basic stitching

Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

model

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Application

Auto

model

model

60 stitches

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.

Attaching zippers, basic
stitching, and sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.

Attaching sleeves, sew­ing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and deco­rative stitching

When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

f

Manual

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 29).

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

/

)

Rev.

(

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

*

Yes

Yes Rev.

( J )

Yes

*

Yes Rev.

( J )

No No Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

3

Select a stitch.

c

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 28).

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

d

beginning of the stitching.

Start sewing.

e

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 29).

• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Sewing reinforcement
stitches” (page 30).

■ Changing the needle position

With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Pressing the “+” side of the stitch width
adjustment key moves the needle to the right;
pressing the “–” side of the stitch width
adjustment key moves the needle to the left.

a Stitch width adjustment key
b Left needle position
c Right needle position

43

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

BLIND HEM STITCHING

You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.

)

/

)

Rfc.

(

Rev.

(

Walking Foot

Reverse

Reinforcement

Stitch Name

Blind hem

stitch

Reverse the skirt or pants.

a

Pattern

R 10101009090909

R 11111110101010

0 (0)

0 (0)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

4

Twin Needle

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

3

Pattern No.

Application

Presser Foot

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

100 stitches

80 stitches

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

mod

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Blind hem stitching on
medium weight fabrics

Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics

Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.

d

a

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

-3mo3

-3mo3

2

b

1

a Right side of fabric
b Bottom side

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

b

hem, and press.

1

2
2

a Wrong side of fabric
b Edge of fabric
c Basting
d 5 mm (3/16 inch)

1

< Seen from the side>

Stitching

1

2

< Seen from the side>

a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric

Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm

c

(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and
then baste it.

< Seen from the side>

a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric
d Basting stitching
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

44

Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the

e

fabric with the wrong side facing up.

1

1

2

1

< Seen from the side>

a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting
c Edge of fabric

Attach blind hem foot “R”.

f

Select a stitch.

g

1

3

Remove the flat bed attachment and make

h

free-arm sewing possible.

• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to
“Using a free-arm style” (page 34).

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the

i

arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly,
and then start sewing.

a Arm

Position the fabric with the edge of the folded

j

hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.

■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold

If the needle catches too much of the hem fold,
adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly
catches the fold by pressing the “+” side of the
stitch width adjustment key.

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold

If the needle does not catch the hem fold, adjust
the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches
the fold by pressing the “-” side of the stitch width
adjustment key.

3

R

a Wrong side of fabric
b Fold of hem
c Guide

Adjust the stitch width until the needle

k

slightly catches the fold of the hem.

R

1

a Needle drop point

When you change the needle drop point, raise
the needle, and then change the stitch width.

a

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

• For details on changing the stitch width,
refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 28).

Sew with the fold of the hem against the

l

presser foot guide.

Remove the basting stitching and turn the

m

fabric right side up.

1

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

2

a Stitch width

45

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

BUTTONHOLE SEWING

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.

)

/

)

Rfc.

(

Rev.

(

Reverse

Auto

Rfc.

Auto

Rfc.

Auto

Rfc.

Auto

Rfc.

Auto

Rfc.

Auto

Rfc.

Auto

Rfc.

Auto

Rfc.

Stitching

Reinforcement

*

*

*

*

*

*

*

*

Walking Foot

Stitch Name

Buttonhole

stitch

Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)

Pattern No.

Pattern

Presser Foot

A 34343429292925

A 35353530303026

A 36363631313127

A 37373732323228

A383838––––Bound buttonholes

A 39393933333329

A 4040403434 – –

A 4141413535 – –

J 4646464040 – –

model

model

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

100 stitches

60 stitches

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Horizontal buttonholes
on thin and medium
weight fabrics

Secured buttoholes for
fabrics that have back­ings

Buttonholes for stretch or
knit fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for
medium weight and thick
fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics

Appliqué quilting, free­motion quilting, satin
stitching, button sewing

Application

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

5.0 (3/16)

3.0-5.0

(1/8-3/16)

5.0 (3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8-3/16)

6.0 (15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8-15/64)

6.0 (15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8-15/64)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

0.5 (1/32)

0.2-1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32-1/16)

1.5 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16-1/8)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64-3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0-4.0

(0-3/16)

No No

No No

No No

No No

No No

No No

No No

No No

No Yes Rfc.

*Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button).

Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

Twin Needle

46

a Reinforcement stitching

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

1

2

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate

Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

5

3

4

A

a Button guide plate
b Presser foot scale
c Pin
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Use chalk to mark the position and length of

a

the buttonhole on the fabric.

1

2

1

2

3

a Presser foot scale
b Length of buttonhole

(Diameter + thickness of button)

c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm
(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),
the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm
(1 inch) on the scale.

1

2

a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

c

3

a Marks on fabric
b Buttonhole sewing

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole

b

foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.

X The size of the buttonhole is set.

Select a stitch.

d

Position the fabric with the front end of the

e

buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks
on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.

Pass the upper thread down through the hole

A

in the presser foot.

1

2

2

A

a Mark on fabric
b Red marks on buttonhole foot

47

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.

a Do not reduce the gap.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

f

possible.

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.

Raise the presser foot lever, remove the

h

fabric, and cut the thread.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

i

position.

Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole

j

stitching to prevent the stitching from being
cut, and then use a seam ripper to cut towards
the pin and open the buttonhole.

2

1

a Seam ripper
b Pin

For keyhole buttonholes, use a commercial
eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded
end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam
ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

g

your left hand, and then start sewing.

X Once sewing is completed, the

machine automatically sews
reinforcement stitches, then stops.

1

a Eyelet punch

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.

CAUTION

● When opening the buttonhole with the seam
ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting
path, otherwise injuries may result if the seam
ripper slips. Do not use the seam ripper in any
other way than how it is intended.

Memo

● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

48

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
gimp thread.

Hook the gimp thread onto the part of

a

buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
so that it fits into the grooves, and then
loosely tie it.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

b

Select a stitch or .

c

Button sewing

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

Measure the distance between the holes in the

a

button to be attached.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the

b

feed dog position lever, located at the rear of
the machine on the base, to (to the right
as seen from the front of the machine).

3

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the

d

gimp thread.

Lower the presser foot lever and the

e

buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

f

thread to remove any slack.

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp

g

thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.

With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the

h

gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.

Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.

a Feed dog position lever

(as seen from the rear of the machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Attach presser foot “M”.

c

1

a Button fitting foot “M”

49

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Place a button between the presser foot and

d

the fabric.

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.

Select a stitch . (With models not provided

e

with stitch , select stitch .)

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as

f

the distance between the holes in the button.

Set the stitch length to the shortest setting by

g

pressing the stitch length adjustment key.

Turn the handwheel toward you

h

(counterclockwise) to check that the needle
correctly goes into the two holes of the
button.

Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
the button holes.

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch the button, otherwise the needle
may bend or break.

Start sewing.

i

• After sewing for about 10 seconds at low
speed, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) to sew reinforcement stitches.

Pull the upper thread at the end of the

j

stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it with the bobbin thread.

Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

When you are finished attaching the button,

k

slide the feed dog position lever to (to
the left as seen from the front of the machine)
and turn the handwheel to raise the dogs.

• Normally, the feed dog position lever is
positioned at .

50

ZIPPER INSERTION

You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of
the needle.
When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing the left
side of the zipper, attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot.

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Straight

stitch

(center)

Pattern

Presser Foot

I 01010101010101

model

model

100 stitches

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

*Do not use reverse stitching.

1

2

3

a Zipper foot
b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper
c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper

model

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Application

model

model

60 stitches

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Attaching zippers, basic
stitching, and sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.

Auto

Manual

–

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

Yes
( J )

Twin Needle

Yes Rev.

Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the

d

top on both sides. The needle should be
positioned on the zipper side of the foot for
best results.

)

/

)

Rfc.

(

Rev.

(

*

Walking Foot

Reverse

Reinforcement

*

Stitching

3

Select stitch .

a

Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the

b

left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the
shank.

Fold the edge of the material 2 cm (3/4 inch)

c

and place the zipper under the folded section.
Lower the needle into the notch located either
on the left or right side of the zipper foot.

CAUTION

● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the
needle does not hit the presser foot before
you start sewing. If you choose a different
stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and
break the needle. You may also be injured.

To sew the opposite side of the zipper, release

e

the foot by pressing the button located at the
back of the presser foot, fit the zipper foot on
the other side of the zipper and continue
sewing using the other side notch.

CAUTION

● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper
during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper,
the needle may break and you may be injured.

51

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Stretch stitch J 03030303030303

3-point

zigzag stitch

Elastic-

attaching

stitch

Pattern

Presser Foot

mode

mode

mode

model

90 stitches

100 stitches

J 05050505050505

J 212121 - - - -

80 stitches

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Application

model

Sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitching

Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic, darn­ing, etc.

Attaching elastic to
stretch fabrics

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

1.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

Yes
( J )

Yes
( J )

Yes
( J )

Twin Needle

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

Stretch stitching

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Select stitch .

b

Sew the fabric without stretching it.

c

b

Select stitch .

c

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while

d

stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.

While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest
the front of the presser foot with your right hand.

/

)

Rev.

(

Walking Foot

Reverse

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

No Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the

a

fabric.

Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make
sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.

1

2

a Elastic tape
b Pin

52

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.

APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Zigzag stitch J 04040404040404

Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)

Appliqué

stitch

Appliqué

stitch

(for quilting)

Piecing
straight

stitch

Joining stitch

Hand-look

quilting

Quilting

stippling

Pattern

Presser Foot

mode

mode

mode

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

100 stitches

J 4646464040 - -

J 12121211111111Appliqué stitching

J 4747474141 - -

J 4848484242 - -

J 4343433737 - -

J 4444443838 - -

J 15151514141414

J 16161615151515

J 17171716161616

J 45454539393531

J 4949494343 - -

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

model

40 stitches

*Do not use reverse stitching.

Application

model

Overcasting and attach­ing appliqués

Appliqué quilting, free­motion quilting, satin
stitching

Attaching appliqués and
binding

Attaching appliqués and
binding

Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5mm from the right
edge of the presser foot)

Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5mm from the left
edge of the presser foot)

Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching

Patchwork stitching, dec­orative stitching and sew­ing overcasting on both
pieces of fabrics, such as
with tricot

Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching

Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn

Quilting background
stitching (stippling)

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

1.5 (1/16)

0.5–5.0

(1/32–3/16)

1.5 (1/16)

0.5–5.0

(1/32–3/16)

5.5 (7/32)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

1.5 (1/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)

7.0 (1/4)

1.0–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

/

)

Rev.

(

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

*

Yes

Yes Rfc.

( J )

No Yes Rfc.

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No Yes Rfc.

No Yes Rfc.

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

3

Appliqués

You can create an appliqué by cutting a different
piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a
decoration.

Baste the cut design to the fabric.

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select stitch .

c

53

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Carefully sew around the edge of the design.

d

Cut away any fabric that is left outside the stitching.

e

Piecing

Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a

6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.

Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the

a

fabric that you wish to piece together.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Remove the basting, if necessary.

f

Memo

● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the
beginning and the end of stitching.

CAUTION

● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin
during sewing, as the needle can break. You
may also be injured.

Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching

Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and

a

place it over the lower piece.

Select stitch or

c

Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned

d

with the edge of the fabric.

■ For a seam allowance on the right side

Align the right side of the presser foot with the

edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .

.

1

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

■ For a seam allowance on the left side

Align the left side of the presser foot with the

edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .

1

Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the

b

pattern spans both pieces.

54

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

Memo

● To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
For details, refer to “Changing the needle
position” (page 43).

Quilting

Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
optional quilting guide.

Note

● Only use the walking foot with straight or
zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns.
Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the
walking foot.

Baste the fabric to be quilted.

a

Place one hand on each side of the presser

e

foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while
sewing.

Note

● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.

3

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot

b

holder.

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 26).

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot

c

onto the needle clamp screw, lower the
presser foot lever, and then use the presser
foot holder screw to attach the walking foot
to the presser bar.

a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
c Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION

● Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw
securely. If the screw is loose, the needle may
strike the presser foot and cause injury.

● Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the
front of the machine to check that the needle
does not strike the presser foot. If the needle
strikes the presser foot, injury may result.

■ Using the optional quilting guide

Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.

Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at

a

the rear of the walking foot or presser foot
holder.

 Walking foot

 Presser foot holder

Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt

b

guide aligns with the seam that has already
been sewn.

Select stitch , or .

d

55

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the

d

Free-motion quilting

rear of the machine on the base, to (to
the right as seen from the front of the machine).

With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be
lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that
the fabric can be moved freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot

a

holder.

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 26).

Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side

b

of the presser bar.

The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.

a Pin on quilting foot
b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right

c

hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

a Feed dog position lever

(as seen from the rear of the machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a

e

stitch.

Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, then

f

move the fabric to follow the pattern.

Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.

a Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION

● Be sure to securely tighten the screws with
the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or
break.

56

a Pattern

After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog

g

position lever to (to the left as seen from
the front of the machine) and turn the
handwheel to raise the dogs.

• Normally, the feed dog position lever is
positioned at .

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING

Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Triple

stretch stitch

Bar tack

stitch

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

100 stitches

J 02020202020202

A 42424236363430

80 stitches

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

*Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement

Triple stretch stitching

Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
and inseams.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Select stitch .

b

Start sewing.

c

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 29).

Application

model

Attaching sleeves, sew­ing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and deco­rative stitching

Reinforcing openings
and areas where the
seam easily comes loose

Bar tack stitching

Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
pocket corners is described below.

Determine the desired length of the bar tack.

a

Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

0.0 (0)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

1.0-3.0

(1/16-1/8)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.5 (3/32)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

0.4 (1/64)

0.3-1.0

(1/64-1/16)

/

)

Rev.

(

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

No No Rfc.

No No

Auto

Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

*

Stitching

3

1

2

3

a Presser foot scale
b Length of bar tack
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

b

57

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Select stitch .

c

Position the fabric so that the opening of the

d

pocket faces toward you, and then lower the
presser foot lever so that the needle drops
2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket
opening.

1

a 2 mm (1/16 inch)

Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
size.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

e

possible.

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

f

your left hand, and then start sewing.

a Do not reduce the gap.

X Once sewing is completed, the

machine automatically sews
reinforcement stitches, then stops.

Raise the presser foot lever, remove the

g

fabric, and cut the thread.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

h

position.

Memo

● If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Selecting a
stitch” (page 28).

58

DECORATIVE STITCHING

Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Fagoting

stitch

Joining stitch

Shell tuck

stitch

Smocking

stitch

Satin scallop

stitch

Decorative

stitch

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

100 stitches

J 19191917171717

J 20202018181818

J 15151514141414

J 16161615151515

J 17171716161616

J 13131312121212Sell tuck stitching

J 181818 - - - -

N 14 14 14 13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching

J 22222219191919Decorative stitching

J 23232320202020Decorative stitching

J 24 24 24 21 21 21 – Decorative stitching

25 25 25 22 22 22 21

N

N 26262623232322

N 27272724242423

N 282828252525 –

N 29292926262624

N 303030272727 –

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches

Application

model

Fagoting, smocking and
decorative stitching

Fagoting, smocking and
decorative stitching

Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching

Patchwork stitching, deco­rative stitching and sewing
overcasting on both pieces
of fabrics, such as with tricot

Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching

Smocking stitching and
decorative stitching

Decorative stitching and
elastic-attaching

Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

5.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

2.5-7.0

(3/32-1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

2.5-7.0

(3/32-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

2.5-7.0

(3/32-1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

5.5 (7/32)

0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/64-1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4

6.0 (15/64)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.5 (3/32)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.1-1.0

(1/64-1/16)

3.0 (1/8)

2.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.6-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

3.0 (1/8)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

3.5 (1/8)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

4.0 (3/16)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

/

)

Rev.

(

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

No No Rfc.

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

3

59

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Decorative

stitch

Pattern

Presser Foot

N 313131282828 –

N323232––––

N333333––––

100 stitches

model

model

model

model

90 stitches

80 stitches

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

model

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric

a

along their seams.
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by

b

about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or
a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.

3

Application

Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.

Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching, heir­loom stitching, etc.

Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching, heir­loom stitching, etc.

Sew with the center of the presser foot

f

aligned along the center of the two pieces of
fabric.

Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

6.0 (15/64)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

5.0 (3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4

Stitch Length

[mm (inch.)]

Auto

Manual

2.0 (1/16)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

/

)

Rev.

(

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

Yes

No Rfc.

( J )

No No Rfc.

No No Rfc.

)

Rfc.

(

Reinforcement

Stitching

a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
b Basting stitching
c 4 mm (3/16 inch)

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

Select stitch or .

d

Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).

e

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 28).

2

1

After sewing is finished, remove the paper.

g

60

Scallop stitching

Smocking

The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars
of blouses and to decorate the edges of
handkerchiefs.

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

a

Select stitch .

b

Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making

c

sure not to sew directly on the edge of the
fabric.

• For better results, apply spray starch onto the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.

Trim along the stitches.

d

The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the

b

stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
the thread tension.

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 28) and “Adjusting thread tension”
(page 31).

Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm

c

(3/8 inch).

1

a 1 cm (3/8 inch)

• Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or
cut the thread.

3

• Be careful not to cut the stitches.

Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.

d

Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

Select stitch or .

e

Stitch between the straight stitches.

f

61

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.

g

Shell tuck stitching

The gathers that look like shells are called “shell
tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of
blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.

Fold the fabric along the bias.

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select stitch , and then increase the thread

c

tension.

Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks

e

down to one side.

Joining

Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Sew together the right sides of the two pieces

b

of fabric, and then open up the seam
allowances.

2

1

1

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 28).

Sew while making sure that the needle drops

d

slightly off the edge of the fabric.

1

a Needle drop point

3

a Wrong side of fabric
b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
c Straight stitch

Select stitch , or .

c

Turn the fabric over so that the right side

d

faces up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the
seam.

a Right side of fabric

62

Heirloom stitching

When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.

CAUTION

● The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
through the eye of the needle from the front
to the back. For details, refer to “Upper
threading” (page 17).

Insert the wing needle.

a

• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.

• For details on inserting a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 22).

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

b

3

Select stitch , , , , , , or

c

CAUTION

● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less, otherwise the needle may bend or
break.

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.

Start sewing.

d

.

63

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

a

SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches)

55 characters can be sewn by following the procedure below.

Press the “+” side of (stitch width

d

Selecting characters

■ Selecting a character
[Example] Selecting stitch “C” (No. 03).

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Press the character stitch key and confirm that

b

the character stitch indicator lights up.

adjustment key) to enter the selected
character.

N

a Stitch width adjustment key

X The following display is shown on the

LCD.

N

ABC

ABC

a Character stitch key
b Character stitch indicator

Memo

● When you select a character, check that
there are no characters in memory.

a

a This indicator shows that no character is stored.

If there are any characters in memory,
delete them. (For details, refer to “Deleting
characters”

Press (stitch selection keys) to select

c

pattern No. 03.

(page 66)

.)

a Selected pattern No.
b The position of the selected pattern No.
c The total number of entered characters

Attach the presser foot indicated on the LCD.

e

a The presser foot to use

• For details, refer to
foot” (page 25)

“Replacing the presser

.

If you would like to only sew this single

f

character, start sewing.
If you would like to sew a sequence of
characters, go to step

on “Combining

characters” (page 65).

• For details on sewing characters, refer to
“Sewing the character stitches” (page 67).

• For details, refer to step
stitch” (page 28)

64

c of

“Selecting a

.

■ Combining characters

You can easily sew names, messages, etc. by
combining the character stitches. Up to 35
characters can be combined.

[Example] Selecting stitches “COME”
(No. 03)+(No. 15)+(No. 13)+(No. 05)

Follow steps athrough e in “Selecting a

a

character” (page 64) to select the first
character “C” (No. 03).

Press (stitch selection keys) to select the

b

next character, “O” (No. 15).

N

Press the “+” side of (stitch width

c

adjustment key) to enter the selected
character.

N

After checking the entered characters, start

f

sewing.

• For details on sewing characters, refer to
“Sewing the character stitches” (page 67).

Memo

● The combination of characters will be

stored in memory even if you turn off the
machine.

■ Adding new characters after sewing

After sewing a combination of characters, you
can add characters to the combination using the
following method.

Memo

● When you have finished sewing, the pattern

No. of the first character in the current
combination is shown on the LCD.

N

3

a Stitch width adjustment key

Repeat steps bandcto add “M” (No. 13)

d

and “E” (No. 05).

N

Memo

● To enter a space, select “ a”(No. 30).

When you have finished combining

e

characters, check the entered characters and
their order.

N

• For details on checking characters, refer to
“Checking characters” (page 66).

Memo

● A new character can only be added next to

the last character. You cannot insert a new
character between characters or before the
first character of the sequence.

Press the utility stitch key.

a

ABC

a Utility stitch key

Press the character stitch key.

b

ABC

a Character stitch key

Add new characters by following the

c

procedure described in “Combining
characters” (page 65).

N

X New characters are added next to the

last character of the combination.

65

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

■ Making a new combination of characters after
sewing

Checking characters

You can check the characters in a combination with

Memo

following method.

● When you have finished sewing, the pattern
No. of the first character in the current
combination is shown on the LCD.

N

Press the “+” or “-” side of (stitch length

a

adjustment key) repeatedly.

This will display the characters that have been
entered one by one on the LCD.
You can check the pattern No. and position of
each character.

Select the first character of the new

a

combination.

Press the “+” side of (stitch width

b

adjustment key).

N

a Stitch width adjustment key

X The old combination of characters is

cleared from memory, and the pattern
No. shown in the LCD is entered as the
first character of a new combination.

Add characters by following the procedure

c

described in “Combining characters”
(page 65).

N

a Stitch length adjustment key
b The position of the selected pattern No.
c The total number of characters in the

combination

d Selected pattern No.

Deleting characters

You can delete characters from the combination.

Press “-” side of (stitch width

a

adjustment key) to delete the last character in
the combination.

N

a Stitch width adjustment key

X The last character will be deleted.

66

N

Memo

● Repeat step a to delete more characters.

● You can only delete the last character in a

combination.

Sewing the character stitches

All character stitches are sewn with monogramming
foot "N".

Select a character stitch.

a

• For details, refer to “Selecting characters”

(page 64)

Attach monogramming foot "N".

b

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 25).

Start sewing.

c

X The stitch is sewn in the direction

indicated by the arrow.

Memo

● When sewing characters, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches
for each character.

● While sewing, the LCD shows the pattern
No. currently being sewn.

When you have finished sewing, use scissors

d

to trim off any excess threads at the beginning
of the stitching and between the characters.

3

67

VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models equipped with character stitches)

Your stitch pattern may sometimes turn out poorly, depending on the type or thickness of fabric, the stabilizer
material used, sewing speed, etc. If your sewing does not turn out well, sew trial stitches using the same
conditions as the real sewing, and adjust the stitch pattern as shown below.

Select No. 59 (for making adjustments).

Memo

● The character stitches "034" (No. 31 + No.
34+ No. 35) are used for making
adjustments.

Attach monogramming foot "N".

a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 25).

Combine the character stitches "034" (No. 31

b

+ No. 34 + No. 35).

• For details, refer to “Combining characters”

(page 65).

X When you have finished creating the

combination, the following is displayed
on the LCD.

N

d

X The LCD goes into the stitch adjustment

mode. The total number of combined
characters (1) changes to

Adjust the character stitches by pressing

e

(stitch length adjustment key).

Each press of “+” or “-” side of (stitch
length adjustment key) widens or narrows the
stitches.

a No. for making adjustments
b The stitch adjustment level
c Widens the stitches
d Narrows the stitches

 If the pattern is bunched (B)

Press the “+” side of (stitch length
adjustment key) to widen the stitch.

“--“.

Sew the combination of characters and check

c

how it turns out.

• For details, refer to “Sewing the character

stitches” (page 67).

A

B

C

A: Correctly sewn

(with proper spaces between characters)

B: Bunched or shapeless

(There is no space between characters.)

C: Overstretched

(The stitch “0” has a gap.)

If the pattern you sewed does not look like A,
use the following steps to adjust the stitches.

68

 If the pattern is overstretched

(The stitch “0” has a gap.) (C)

Press the “-” side of (stitch length
adjustment key) to narrow the stitch.

Memo

● The stitch adjustment level can be set
between -9 and 9.

● The setting is saved in memory even if you
turn off the machine.

Sew the characters “034” again.

f

Memo

● You can sew when you are in the stitch
adjustment mode.

If the stitch pattern still comes out poorly,
adjust the stitch again. Adjust the stitch until
the stitch pattern comes out correctly.

After you have finished adjusting the pattern,

g

press the utility stitch key once, and then
press the character stitch key.

N

X The display returns to the normal

character stitching mode.

3

69

APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

4 APPENDIX

MAINTENANCE

Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.

Cleaning the machine
surface

If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning
it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth.

CAUTION

● Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.

Cleaning the bobbin case

Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
bobbin case; therefore, it should be cleaned
periodically.

CAUTION

● Make sure you unplug the machine before
you clean it. Otherwise, you may get an
electric shock or be injured.

Switch the machine off and unplug it.

a

Raise the needle and the presser foot.

b

Loosen the presser-foot screw and the needle

c

clamp screw to remove the presser-foot
holder and the needle.

70

Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,

d

and then slide it toward you to remove the
needle plate cover.

a Needle plate cover

Remove the bobbin case.

e

Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.

1

a Bobbin case

Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to

f

remove any dust from the race and its
surrounding area.

a Cleaning brush
b Race

• Do not put oil on the bobbin case.

Put the tabs on the needle plate cover into the

h

needle plate, and then slide the cover back on.

CAUTION

● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case (part code: XC3152-021), contact your
nearest authorized service center.

● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may break.

4

Insert the bobbin case so that the projection

g

on the bobbin case aligns with the spring.

1

2

1

a Projection
b Spring

2

71

APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

TROUBLESHOOTING

If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the
latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at [http://solutions.brother.com].
If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

The machine is not plugged in. Plug the machine in. page 9

The sewing
machine does
not work.

The needle
breaks.

The upper
thread breaks.

The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch. page 9

The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to
the right.

You have not used the foot control­ler properly.

The needle is not fitted properly. Fit the needle properly. page 22

The needle clamp screw is loose.

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 22

You have not used the right combi­nation of fabric, thread and needle.

The presser foot you are using is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you want to sew.

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 31

You are pulling the fabric too much. Lightly guide the fabric. –

The area around the hole in the nee­dle plate is scratched.

The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched.

The bobbin case is scratched.

You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.

You have not threaded the upper
thread properly. (for example, you
have not fitted the spool properly, or
the thread has come out of the guide
above the needle.)

There are knots or tangles in the
thread.

The needle is not appropriate for the
thread you are using.

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 31

The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 22

Move the bobbin winder shaft to the
left.

Use the foot controller properly. page 10

Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten
the screw.

Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.

Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.

Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.

Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.

Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.

Correct the upper threading. page 17

Remove any knots or tangles. –

Choose a needle that is appropriate
for the type of stitch.

Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the bobbin case.

page 13, 14

page 23

page 21

page 35

–

–

–

page 12

page 21

page 70

72

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

The upper
thread breaks.

The lower
thread is tangled
or breaks.

The thread is
tangled on the
wrong side of
the fabric.

The thread
tension is
incorrect.

The upper
thread is too
tight.

The fabric is
wrinkled.

You have not inserted the needle
properly.

The area around the hole in the nee­dle plate is scratched.

The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched.

The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.

You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.

You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.

The bobbin is scratched or does not
turn smoothly.

The thread is tangled.

You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.

Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 15, 16

The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.

You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.

You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.

You have not threaded the right
combination of thread and needle
for the fabric you are using.

You have not attached the presser
foot holder properly.

The thread tension is incorrect.

You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.

Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 15, 16

The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.

You have not threaded the upper thread
properly or fitted the bobbin properly.

You have not fitted the spool properly. Fit the spool properly. –

You have not used the right combina­tion of fabric, thread and needle.

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 22

Insert the needle properly. page 22

Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.

Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.

Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.

Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 12

Replace the bobbin. –

Remove the tangled thread and
clean the bobbin case.

Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.

Correct the upper threading. page 17

Correct the upper threading. page 17

Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 12

Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.

Attach the presser foot holder
properly.

Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.

Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.

Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 15

Thread the upper thread and wind
the bobbin thread properly.

Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.

page 15, 16, 17

–

–

–

page 12

page 70

page 12

page 21

page 26

page 31

page 12

page 21

4

73

APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

The fabric is
wrinkled.

Stitches are
skipped.

There is a high­pitched noise
while sewing.

If you are sewing thin fabric, the
stitch is too thick.

The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 31

You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.

You have not used the right combi­nation of fabric, thread and needle.

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.

You have not inserted the needle properly.

Dust has accumulated under the
needle plate or in the bobbin case.

Dust has built up in the feed dogs or
in the bobbin case.

You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.

The bobbin case is scratched.

You have not used bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.

Sew with stabilizer material under
the fabric.

page 34

Correct the upper threading. page 17

Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.

Insert the needle properly.

Remove the needle plate cover and
clean the plate and the bobbin case.

page 21

page 22

page 70

Clean the bobbin case. page 70

Correct the upper threading. page 17

Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest

–

authorized service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has

page 12

been designed for this machine.

Raise the needle either by turning the

The needle
threader can not
be used.

The stitch is not
sewn correctly.

You have not moved the needle
holder to its highest position.

You have not inserted the needle properly.

The presser foot that you are using is
not correct for the type of stitch.

The thread tension is incorrect.

The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.

The stitch adjustment level is
incorrect.

The feed dogs are lowered.

handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on

page 17
the wheel points up or by pressing
(needle position button) once or twice.

Insert the needle properly. page 22

Attach the presser foot that is correct for
the type of stitch that you want to sew.

Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.

page 35

page 31

Remove the tangled thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,

page 70
clean the bobbin case.

Adjust the stitch. page 68

Slide the feed dog position lever to .

page 49, 56

The stitch is too fine. Lengthen the stitch length. page 28

The fabric does
not feed.

The sewing light
bulb does not
come on.

You have not used the right combi­nation of fabric, thread and needle.

The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.

The sewing lamp is damaged.

Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.

Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the bobbin case.

Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.

page 21

page 70

–

74

ERROR MESSAGES

If an operation is performed incorrectly before the sewing machine is set up, an error message appears on the
operation panel. Follow the instructions indicated in the table.
If you press the stitch selection key or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the
message disappears.

Error Message Probable Cause Solution

The foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop but­ton was pressed if the foot controller is not con­nected) and the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
was pressed while the presser foot is raised.

A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack stitch
was selected and the foot controller was pressed (or
the start/stop button was pressed if the foot controller
is not connected) while the buttonhole lever is low­ered.

The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and
the foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop but­ton was pressed if the foot controller is not con­nected) while the buttonhole lever is raised.

The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or needle
position button was pressed while the bobbin winder
shaft is moved to the right.

The start/stop button was pressed while the foot con­troller was connected.

The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.

Lower the presser foot lever
before continuing the opera­tion.

Raise the buttonhole lever
before continuing the opera­tion.

Lower the buttonhole lever
before continuing the opera­tion.

Move the bobbin winder
shaft to the left before con­tinuing the operation.

Disconnect the foot control­ler, and then press the start/
stop button. Otherwise,
operate the machine by
using the foot controller.

Remove the tangled thread
before continuing the opera­tion.

4

Note

● If error message “F1” through “F8” appears in the LCD while the sewing machine is being used, the
machine may be malfunctioning. Contact your nearest authorized service center.

Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep)

Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep. If a non-functioning key is pressed or an incorrect operation
is performed you will hear two or four beeps (only for models equipped with the operation beep).

■ If a key is pressed (correct operation)

One beep sounds.

■ If an incorrect operation is performed or a non-functioning key is pressed

Two or four beeps sound.

■ If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled

The sewing machine beeps for four seconds and the machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the
cause of the error, and correct it before continuing to sew.

75

APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

i

INDEX

Numerics

3-point zigzag stitch ....................................................... 42

A

accessories ....................................................................... 8

adjusting stitches ............................................................ 68

appliqués .......................................................................53

B

bar tack .......................................................................... 57

basic stitching ................................................................43

blind hem stitching......................................................... 44

bobbin ...........................................................................15

bobbin case.................................................................... 70

bobbin cover.............................................................6

bobbin winder..................................................12

button sewing................................................................. 49

buttonhole foot............................................................... 47

buttonhole lever ................................................. 6

buttonhole sewing..........................................................46

, 15

, 72, 75

, 48, 58

C

character stitch indicator ........................................... 7, 64

character stitch key ...................................................7

checking characters........................................................ 66

combining characters ..................................................... 65

crazy quilt stitching ........................................................ 54

, 64

D

darning.................................................................... 42, 52

deleting characters .........................................................66

M

main parts ........................................................................5

main power switch...........................................................9

monogramming.......................................................61

, 63

N

needle ............................................................................ 21

needle bar thread guide.................................................... 6

needle clamp screw ..................................................6

needle plate .....................................................................6

needle plate cover..........................................................70

needle position............................................................... 43

needle position button...................................................... 6

needle threader ..............................................................18

, 23

O

openings ........................................................................57

operation beep ........................................................ 11

operation buttons .............................................................6

operation panel ................................................................ 7

optional accessories .........................................................8

overcasting stitches ........................................................42

, 75

P

patchwork stitching ........................................................ 54

piecing........................................................................... 54

pocket corners................................................................ 57

presser foot................................................................ 6

presser foot holder..................................................... 6

presser foot lever ....................................................... 6

pre-tension disk..............................................................12

, 25
, 26
, 17

E

elastic tape ..................................................................... 52

error messages................................................................ 75

extra spool pin ...............................................................24

eyelet punch ..................................................................48

F

fagoting .......................................................................... 60

feed dog position lever ................................................... 56

feed dogs...................................................................6

flat bed attachment.................................................... 7

foot controller ...........................................................8

free-arm style .................................................................34

free-motion quilting........................................................ 56

, 56
, 34
, 30

H

handwheel .......................................................................5

heirloom stitching ..........................................................63

hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................33

J

joining............................................................................ 62

joining stitch ...........................................................53

, 59

76

Q

quick-set bobbin .......................................................6, 16

quilting........................................................................... 55

quilting foot.................................................................... 56

quilting guide ................................................................. 55

R

reinforcement stitching...................................................57

reverse/reinforcement stitch button................................... 6

S

scallop stitching .............................................................61

seam ripper ....................................................................48

sewing machine needles ................................................21

sewing speed controller....................................................6

sewing the character stitches .......................................... 67

sleeve holes.................................................................... 57

smocking........................................................................ 61

spool pin ................................................................. 12

start/stop button......................................................... 6

stitch length.................................................................... 28

stitch selection key ............................................. 7

stitch width ....................................................................28

straight stitch .................................................................. 43

stretch fabrics ................................................................. 34

, 17
, 30

, 28, 65

T

thick fabrics.................................................................... 32

thin fabrics .....................................................................34

thread cutter...................................................................30

thread guide ................................................................... 17

thread tension ................................................................31

trial sewing..................................................................... 32

triple stretch stitch .......................................................... 43

troubleshooting ..............................................................72

twin needle ....................................................................24

U

upper tension-control dial ..............................................31

upper threading..............................................................17

utility stitch indicator................................................. 7

utility stitch key ......................................................... 7

, 28
, 28

W

walking foot ...................................................................55

wing needle ...................................................................63

Z

zigzag stitch .....................................................32, 42, 53

zipper foot...................................................................... 51

zipper Insertion ..............................................................51

4

77

English

885-S39

XE6187-001

Printed in China