Brother NX-650 User Manual

GETTING READY

Read before use.

Read when additional information is required.

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Computerized Sewing Machine

Operation Manual

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Important Safety Instructions

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine. This machine is intended for household use.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,

when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the

machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or

when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:

• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp

the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.

• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.

• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has

been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest

authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such an odor, heat,

discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.

4 Always keep your work area clear:

• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

• Do not store objects on the foot controller.

• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.

• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.

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5 Special care is required when sewing:

• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.

• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.

• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.

• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

6 This machine is not a toy:

• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

• Do not use outdoors.

7 For a longer service life:

• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

8 For repair or adjustment:

• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

Save these instructions.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the

mark, rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

This sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children, and assistance may be required if used by a person with a disability.

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Contents

Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................1

Introduction ........................................................................................................................7

Sewing Machine Features .................................................................................................... 7

Accessories .......................................................................................................................... 8

Included accessories .........................................................................................................................................8

Optional accessories.........................................................................................................................................9

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ................................................................... 10

Front view.......................................................................................................................................................10

Needle and presser foot section .....................................................................................................................11

Right-side/rear view ........................................................................................................................................11

Operation buttons...........................................................................................................................................12

Operation panel..............................................................................................................................................13

GETTING READY 15

Turning the Machine On/Off............................................................................................. 16

Power supply precautions ...............................................................................................................................16

Turning on the machine.................................................................................................................................. 17

Turning off the machine..................................................................................................................................17

Understanding the LCD Screens........................................................................................ 18

Changing the Machine Settings .........................................................................................19

Changing the settings ......................................................................................................................................19

Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ...............................................................................................................21

Changing the screen language.........................................................................................................................21

Winding/Installing the Bobbin........................................................................................... 22

Bobbin precautions .........................................................................................................................................22

Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................22

Installing the bobbin .......................................................................................................................................26

Upper Threading ............................................................................................................... 28

Threading the upper thread .............................................................................................................................28

Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 31

Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ...............................................................33

Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 33

Pulling up the bobbin thread...........................................................................................................................36

Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................37

Needle precautions.........................................................................................................................................37

Needle types and their uses............................................................................................................................. 38

Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 39

Replacing the needle.......................................................................................................................................39

Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................41

Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 41

Replacing the presser foot...............................................................................................................................41

Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ....................................................................................................... 43

Removing the presser foot holder ................................................................................................................... 43

Using the walking foot .................................................................................................................................... 44

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces.................................................................................... 46

Stitching cylindrical pieces.............................................................................................................................. 46

Sewing large pieces of fabric...........................................................................................................................46

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SEWING BASICS 49

Sewing............................................................................................................................... 50

General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 50

Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 51

Starting to sew.................................................................................................................................................52

Securing the stitching......................................................................................................................................54

Cutting the thread ...........................................................................................................................................55

Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................ 57

Thread tension ................................................................................................................................................57

Changing the tension of the upper thread ....................................................................................................... 58

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length .............................................................................. 59

Adjusting the stitch width................................................................................................................................59

Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 60

Useful Functions................................................................................................................61

Changing the needle stop position .................................................................................................................61

Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ......................................................................................61

Automatically cutting the thread ....................................................................................................................63

Saving stitch settings .......................................................................................................................................64

Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot ........................................................................................65

Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 66

Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 66

Changing the sewing direction........................................................................................................................66

Sewing curves.................................................................................................................................................66

Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................67

Sewing thin fabrics..........................................................................................................................................67

Sewing stretch fabrics......................................................................................................................................67

Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics ......................................................................................................................68

Sewing an even seam allowance .................................................................................................................... 68

UTILITY STITCHES 69

Selecting Stitching .............................................................................................................70

Selecting stitch types and patterns .................................................................................................................. 70

Selecting stitching ...........................................................................................................................................72

Overcasting Stitches ..........................................................................................................76

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ...................................................................................76

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”............................................................................................. 77

Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter............................................................................................. 78

Basic Stitching ................................................................................................................... 80

Basting............................................................................................................................................................80

Basic stitching.................................................................................................................................................81

Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................82

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing..................................................................................84

Buttonhole sewing ..........................................................................................................................................85

Button sewing .................................................................................................................................................89

Zipper Insertion................................................................................................................. 91

Inserting a centered zipper ..............................................................................................................................91

Inserting a side zipper .....................................................................................................................................93

Zipper/piping Insertion .....................................................................................................96

Inserting a centered zipper ..............................................................................................................................96

Inserting a piping ............................................................................................................................................97

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................ 98

Stretch stitching...............................................................................................................................................98

Elastic attaching ..............................................................................................................................................98

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Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ........................................................................ 100

Appliqué stitching .........................................................................................................................................101

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching .................................................................................................................. 102

Piecing..........................................................................................................................................................102

Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................104

Free-motion quilting......................................................................................................................................105

Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller ..........................................................................................106

Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................. 108

Triple stretch stitching ...................................................................................................................................108

Bar tack stitching...........................................................................................................................................108

Darning......................................................................................................................................................... 110

Eyelet Stitching ................................................................................................................ 112

Horizontal Stitching ........................................................................................................113

Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................115

Fagoting........................................................................................................................................................116

Scallop stitching............................................................................................................................................117

Smocking......................................................................................................................................................117

Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................118

Joining ..........................................................................................................................................................119

Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................119

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns .............................................................122

Sewing beautiful patterns ..............................................................................................................................122

Sewing patterns.............................................................................................................................................122

Combining patterns.......................................................................................................................................123

Repeat sewing patterns..................................................................................................................................124

Checking the selected pattern .......................................................................................................................124

Changing the pattern size..............................................................................................................................125

Changing the stitch density ........................................................................................................................... 126

Changing the pattern length ..........................................................................................................................127

Shifting patterns ............................................................................................................................................128

Mirror imaging the pattern ............................................................................................................................ 129

Saving patterns.............................................................................................................................................. 130

Retrieving a pattern .......................................................................................................................................130

Realigning the pattern ...................................................................................................................................131

Designing a Pattern ......................................................................................................... 133

Drawing a sketch of the pattern .................................................................................................................... 133

Entering the pattern data ............................................................................................................................... 134

Examples of designs ......................................................................................................................................136

APPENDIX 137

Stitch Settings.................................................................................................................. 138

Utility stitches ...............................................................................................................................................138

Other stitches................................................................................................................................................ 144

Care and Maintenance ....................................................................................................149

Cleaning the machine surface .......................................................................................................................149

Cleaning the race.......................................................................................................................................... 149

Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................151

Error messages ..............................................................................................................................................155

Nothing appears in the LCD.......................................................................................................................... 156

Operation beep.............................................................................................................................................156

Cancelling the operation beep ......................................................................................................................156

Index ................................................................................................................................ 158

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Introduction

Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “Important Safety Instructions” (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.

Sewing Machine Features

a Easy upper threading

Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition, the needle can be threaded with a simple operation (page 28).

b Full auto upper thread tension

The thread tension is adjusted automatically.

c Automatic thread-cutting

The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the thread at the end of the stitching (page 63).

d One-touch lower threading

You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 26).

e Simple bobbin-winding

The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread (page 22).

f Built-in stitches

You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches, character stitches and decorative stitches.

g Knee lifter

Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric (page

65).

Introduction 7

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Accessories

After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your dealer.

Included accessories

The following items should also be included in the box.

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

z Foot controller: Model N5V

This foot controller can be used on this machine model NX-650.

z The screw for the presser foot holder is available

through your authorized dealer. (Part code: XA4813-051)

z The organized accessory tray is available through your

authorized dealer. (Part code: XC4489-051)

■ Attaching the stitch pattern plate

The stitch pattern plate shows the stitch numbers and the patterns available with each stitch mode. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the handle as shown in the illustration below.

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1. 2. 3. 4.

10. 11. 12. 13. 14.

20.

21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27.

30. 31. 32.

5.

15.

33.

6. 7.

8.

16. 17. 18. 19.*

28.

34. 35.

36. 37. 38. *75/11 2 needles

90/14 2 needles 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)

No. Part Name

1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-053 21 Cleaning brush X59476-051 2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-051 22 Eyelet punch 135793-001 3 Monogramming foot “N” X53840-351 23 Screwdriver (large) XC8349-051 4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-051 24 Screwdriver (small) X55468-051 5

Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) 6 Blind stitch foot “R” X56409-051 26 Spool cap (medium)(2) X55260-153 7 Button fitting foot “M” 130489-001 27 Spool cap (small) 130013-154 8 Walking foot SA140 9 Quilting foot SA129

10 Stitch guide foot “P” SA160 F035 (XC1969-002) 11

Adjustable zipper/piping foot

12 Non stick foot SA114 13 Open toe foot SA147 14 1/4 inch quilting foot SA125 15 Side cutter SA177 F054 (XC3879-002) 34 Quick reference guide XE0360-001 16 Quilting guide SA132 17 Seam ripper X54243-051 36 Accessory bag XC4487-051 18 Bobbin (4) SA156 SFB (XA5539-151) 37 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051 19 Needle set X58358-051 38 Stitch pattern plate XE0541-001 20 Twin needle X59296-151

Part Code

U.S.A./ Canada

SA161

Others

XC3021-051 25 Spool cap (large) 130012-054

F033N (XC2214-002) F005N (XC1948-002)

F036N (XC1970-002) F007N (XC1949-002) F027N (XC1964-002) F001N (XC1944-052)

F016N (XC2215-002)

No. Part Name

28 Extra spool pin XC4654-051 29 Spool net XA5523-050

30 Foot controller

31 Grid sheet set SA527 GS4 (XC4549-050) 32 Knee lifter XA6941-052 33 Operation manual XE0371-001

35 Hard case XC9701-052

Part Code

U.S.A./ Canada

XD0496-051(EU area)

XC6651-151(other areas)

Others

9.

29.

Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories.

1. 2.

1. Wide table

Part code: SA551, WT5(XC9567-152)

Memo

z To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized

service center.

2. 1/4 inch quilting foot with guide

Part code: SA185, F057(XC7416-252)

Accessories 9

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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions

The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.

Front view

2

1

3

4

5

C

B

A

0

9

a Thread guide plate

Pass the thread under the thread guide plate.

b Thread guide cover

Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover when threading the upper thread.

c Spool pin

Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.

d Bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk

Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread.

e Top cover

Open the top cover to place the spool of thread on the spool pin.

f Bobbin winder

Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.

g Operation panel

Use for stitch selection and various stitch functions. (page 13)

h Knee lifter mounting slot

Insert the knee lifter into the knee lifter mounting slot.

i Operation buttons and sewing speed controller

Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing machine. (page 12)

6

7

8

j Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment

Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory compartment of the flat bed attachment. When sewing cylindrical pieces, remove the flat bed attachment.

k Thread cutter

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

l Needle threader lever

Use the needle threader to thread the needle.

m Thread take-up lever check window

Look through the window to check the position of the take-up lever.

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Needle and presser foot section

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is used with the one-step buttonhole foot to create buttonholes.

b Thread guide disk

Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when using the needle threader to thread the needle.

c Needle bar thread guide

Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.

d Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew straight seams.

e Needle plate cover

Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case and race.

f Bobbin cover

Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.

g Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

h Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.

i Presser foot holder

The presser foot is attached onto the presser foot holder.

Right-side/rear view

a Presser foot dial

Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric.

b Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.

c Handwheel

Turn the handwheel toward you to raise and lower the needle. The handwheel should be turned towards you (counterclockwise).

d Air vent

The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used.

e Main power switch

Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine ON and OFF.

f Foot controller jack

Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack.

g Power supply jack

Insert the plug on the power cord into the power supply jack.

h Feed dog position switch

Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.

i Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

Memo

z Refer to pages 9 through 12 while you are

learning to use your machine.

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 11

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Operation buttons

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.

a “Start/Stop” button

Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 52). The button lights up in green, red or orange, depending on how the sewing machine is being operated.

Green: When the machine is ready to start

sewing or while it is sewing

Red: When the machine is not ready to

start sewing

Orange: When the bobbin winder shaft is

moved to the right for winding the bobbin thread onto the bobbin

b “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 54).

c “Needle Position” button

Press the “Needle Position” button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.

d “Thread Cutter” button

Press the “Thread Cutter” button after stopping sewing to cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 55).

e Sewing speed controller

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.

CAUTION

● Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button) after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.

Note

z Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button) if

there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.

z When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon

thread or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine. For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page

55).

12

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Operation panel

The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings.

1 2

3 4

5 6

0

A

B

C

H

a LCD (liquid crystal display)

Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys b and g through s, described below, to display various items and select the settings. For details, refer to “Understanding the LCD Screens” (page 18).

b Settings key

Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for left/ right mirror imaging, or other settings such as the operation beep.

c Needle stop position key

Press this key to select where the needle is positioned when the sewing machine is stopped.

d Automatic thread cutting key

Press this key to select the automatic thread cutting setting. Press this key again to cancel the setting.

e Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key

Press this key to select the automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching setting. Press this key again to cancel the setting.

f Needle mode selection key (single/twin)

Press this key to select the twin needle sewing setting. Each time this key is pressed, the setting switches between that for single needle sewing and for twin needle sewing.

g Thread tension keys

The thread tension is usually set automatically. Press

or to adjust the thread tension setting.

h Stitch width keys

Press or to adjust the stitch width setting.

i Stitch length keys

Press or to adjust the stitch length setting.

■ Stitch mode keys (j-m)

j Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key

Press this key to select the utility stitch assigned to a numeric key or to retrieve a pattern that has been saved. Each time this key is pressed, the machine switches between the preset utility stitch mode and the saved pattern mode.

k Utility stitch key

Press this key to select a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, buttonhole, blind hem stitch, or other stitches commonly used in garment sewing. Use the numeric keys to type in the number of the desired stitch.

l Decorative stitch key

Press this key to select a decorative stitch, satin stitch, crossstitch or decorative satin stitch. Each time this key is pressed, the stitch group switches between and .

m Character stitch key

Press this key to select a character stitch. Each time this key is pressed, the font switches to one of the three available.

n Manual memory key

Press this key to save the adjusted thread tension and stitch width and length settings.

o Reset key

Press this key to reset the selected stitch to its original settings.

p Memory key

Press this key to save stitch patterns, such as combined patterns and My Custom Stitch patterns, in the sewing machine's memory.

q OK key

Press this key to apply the selection or perform the operation.

r Cancel/clear key

Press this key to cancel the operation and return to the previous screen. In addition, pressing this key removes the last pattern added when combining characters or decorative stitches.

s Numeric keys

Use these keys to quickly select one of the ten most often used stitches. When selecting other stitches, use these keys to type in the number of the desired stitch.

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 13

7

9

8 D

E

F G

I

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14

1 GETTING READY

The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.

TTurning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................16

Power supply precautions .................................................................................. 16

Turning on the machine ..................................................................................... 17

Turning off the machine .....................................................................................17

Understanding the LCD Screens..............................................................................18

Changing the Machine Settings ...............................................................................19

Changing the settings ......................................................................................... 19

Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ...................................................................21

Changing the screen language

Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................22

Bobbin precautions ............................................................................................ 22

Winding the bobbin ...........................................................................................22

Installing the bobbin ..........................................................................................26

Upper Threading ..................................................................................................... 28

Threading the upper thread................................................................................28

Threading the needle..........................................................................................31

Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)..................33

Using the twin needle ........................................................................................33

Pulling up the bobbin thread..............................................................................36

Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................37

Needle precautions ............................................................................................ 37

Needle types and their uses................................................................................38

Checking the needle........................................................................................... 39

Replacing the needle ..........................................................................................39

Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................41

Presser foot precautions ..................................................................................... 41

Replacing the presser foot .................................................................................. 41

Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot .......................................................... 43

Removing the presser foot holder ...................................................................... 43

Using the walking foot .......................................................................................44

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces..........................................................................46

Stitching cylindrical pieces.................................................................................46

Sewing large pieces of fabric..............................................................................46

..............................................................................21

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Turning the Machine On/Off

This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING

● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

• Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.

• Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

CAUTION

● Use only the power cord included with this machine.

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to

them. Fire or electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to

remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

16

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Turning on the machine

Prepare the included power cord.

Make sure that the sewing machine is turned

a

off (the main power switch is set to “ ”), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine.

Insert the plug of the power cord into a

b

household electrical outlet.

1

a Power supply jack

Press the right side of the main power switch

c

on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).

Turning off the machine

When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.

Make sure that the machine is not sewing.

a

Press the left side of the main power switch on

b

the right side of the machine (set it to “ ”).

X The sewing lamp and the LCD go off when

the machine is turned off.

Unplug the power cord from the electrical

c

outlet.

Grasp the plug when unplugging the power cord.

Unplug the power cord from the power supply

d

jack.

1

X The sewing lamp and the LCD come on

when the machine is turned on.

Note

z If a power outage occurs while the sewing

machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. (For U.S.A. only)

z This appliance has a polarized plug (one

blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Turning the Machine On/Off 17

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Understanding the LCD Screens

The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly.When the sewing machine is turned on, the LCD comes on and the following screen appears.

1

2

3

4 5

6

a Presser foot that should be used b Stitch mode c Selected stitch d Stitch length (mm) e Stitch width (mm) f Upper thread tension

Memo

z For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to “Error

messages” (page 155).

18

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Changing the Machine Settings

Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.

Press or (Stitch length keys) until the

Changing the settings

The general procedure for changing machine settings is described below.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Press (Settings key) in the operation

b

panel.

X The settings screen appears.

c

stitch or machine attribute that you wish to set

is displayed.

a Stitch length keys

1

Press or (Stitch width keys) until the

d

desired setting is selected.

X The setting is changed.

Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear

e

key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Changing the Machine Settings 19

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ List of stitch or machine attributes

The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the corresponding reference page.

Attribute Icon Details Reference

Check pattern Allows combined patterns to be checked. page 124

Mirror imaging Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis. page 129

Pattern length Adjusts the length of satin stitches. page 127

Pattern size Sets the size of patterns to be large or small. page 125

Repeated/ single sewing

Stitching density

Initial needle position

Stitch width control

Language

Buzzer

LCD brightness Adjusts the brightness of the LCD. page 21

Vertical pattern adjustment

Horizontal pattern adjustment

Specifies whether the pattern will be sewn once or repeatedly.

Specifies the sewing density of the stitching. page 126

Select the straight stitch that is automatically selected when the machine is turned on.

Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing speed controller.

Allows the language used in the screens to be changed.

Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each operation.

Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern. page 131

Adjusts the left and right position of the pattern. page 131

page 124

-

page 106

page 21

page 156

Memo

z The icon shown highlighted above is the default setting. z The default display language is English.

20

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjusting the brightness of the LCD

The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted.

Press (Settings key) in the operation

a

panel, and then press or (Stitch length

keys) until is displayed.

X The screen for changing the brightness of the

LCD appears.

To make the LCD brighter, press (Stitch

b

width key). To make the LCD darker, press

(Stitch width key).

Changing the screen language

The language used in the screens that are displayed can be changed to one of the many available.

Press (Settings key) in the operation

a

panel, and then press or (Stitch length

keys) until the language is displayed.

X The screen for changing the language of the

screens appears.

Press or (Stitch width keys) until the

b

desired language is selected.

The language can be changed to one of the available: English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Italian, Danish, Norwegian, Finnish, Swedish, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese, Korean or others.

1

X The brightness of the LCD is changed.

Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear

c

key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

X The language of the screens is changed.

Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear

c

key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Changing the Machine Settings 21

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Winding/Installing the Bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.

Bobbin precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.

CAUTION

● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).

Actual size

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model

Other model

Winding the bobbin

Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.

1

a Bobbin winder

Memo

z The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on

the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

22

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Open the top cover.

b

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so

c

that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin. Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into place.

1

2

Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto

f

the spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.

• If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

g

Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.

CAUTION

1

a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring

Slide the bobbin winder in the direction of the

d

arrow until it snaps into place.

• (“Start/Stop” button) lights up in orange.

Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the

e

spool pin.

1

2

a Spool pin b Spool cap

● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and the needle may break.

● Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool and the needle may break.

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

While holding the thread near the spool with

Memo

z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread,

use the small spool cap, and leave a small

h

your right hand, as shown, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.

space between the cap and the spool.

1

c

b

a

a Spool cap (small) b Spool (cross-wound thread) c Space

z When using thread that winds off quickly,

such as transparent nylon thread or metallic

a Thread guide cover

Pass the thread under the thread guide plate,

i

and then pull it to the right.

thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool. When the spool net is used, the tension of the upper thread will slightly increase. Be sure to check the thread tension. For details, refer to “Adjusting the Thread Tension” (page 57).

1

2

a Thread guide plate

1

Pass the thread under the hook on the thread

j

guide, and then wind it counterclockwise under the pretension disk.

24

3

a Spool net b Spool c Spool cap d Spool pin

1

4

1

a Thread guide and pretension disk

Note

z Make sure that the thread passes under the

pretension disk.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

While holding the thread with your left hand,

k

wind the thread that was pulled out clockwise around the bobbin five or six times with your right hand.

Note

z Make sure that the thread between the spool

and the bobbin is pulled tight.

z Be sure to wind the thread clockwise around

the bobbin, otherwise the thread will become wrapped around the bobbin winder shaft.

Pass the end of the thread through the guide

l

slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to the right to cut it.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

m

to increase the bobbin winding speed and slide to left to decrease.

a Sewing speed controller

Press (“Start/Stop” button) once.

n

1

a “Start/Stop” button

• When the bobbin winding becomes slow,

press (“Start/Stop” button) once to stop

the machine.

1

a Guide slit in bobbin winder seat

(with built-in cutter)

X The thread is cut to a suitable length.

CAUTION

● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin and the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.

CAUTION

● When the bobbin winding becomes slow, stop the machine, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged.

Use scissors to cut the end of the thread

o

wound around the bobbin.

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.

p

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 25

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Remove the bobbin from the shaft.

q

Memo

z When the sewing machine is started or the

handwheel is turned after winding the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

Installing the bobbin

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

CAUTION

● Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.

a

a Bobbin cover b Latch

X The bobbin cover opens.

Remove the bobbin cover.

b

Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold

c

the end of the thread with your left.

• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case so that

d

the thread unrolls to the left.

1

2

●

The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).

Actual size

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model Other model

Memo

z The order that the bobbin thread should be

passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

26

• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.

CAUTION

● Be sure to install the bobbin so that the thread unwinds in the correct direction, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Memo

z The order that the bobbin thread should be

passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated. The marks around the bobbin case differ depending on the model.

Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right

e

hand, and then guide the thread as shown with your left hand.

Note

z Make sure that the thread is correctly

inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted correctly, reinsert the thread.

1

a Tension-adjusting spring

Reattach the bobbin cover.

g

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

1

2

CAUTION

● When installing the bobbin, be sure to hold it down with your finger. If the bobbin is not correctly installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and

f

then pull the thread out toward the front.

1

a Cutter

X The cutter cuts the thread.

1

X The lower threading is finished.

Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with the procedure in “Upper Threading” (page 28).

Memo

z You can begin sewing without pulling up the

bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the procedure in “Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 36).

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 27

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Upper Threading

In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described.

CAUTION

● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled and the needle may bend or break.

Memo

z The order that the machine should be

threaded is indicated by a solid line on the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

Threading the upper thread

Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then thread the machine.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

28

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Raise the presser foot lever to raise the presser

b

foot.

a

a Presser foot lever

Note

z If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing

machine cannot be threaded.

Press (“Needle Position” button) once or

c

twice to raise the needle.

1

a “Needle Position” button

X The needle is correctly raised when the mark

on the handwheel is at the top, as shown below. Check the handwheel and, if this mark is not at this position, press (“Needle Position” button) until it is.

Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the

e

spool pin.

1

2

a Spool pin b Spool cap

Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.

f

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.

CAUTION

● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and the needle may break.

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

g

Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.

1

a Mark on handwheel

Open the top cover.

d

1

Upper Threading 29

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

While using your right hand to lightly hold the

j

CAUTION

● If the spool or the spool cap is not

thread passed under the thread guide plate, pass the thread through the thread path in the order shown below.

positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and

1

the needle may break.

● Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool and the needle may break.

a Shutter

Note

z If the presser foot has been lowered and the

shutter is closed, the machine cannot be threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot and open the shutter before threading the machine. In addition, before removing the upper thread, be sure to raise the presser foot

While holding the thread lightly with your

h

right hand, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.

1

and open the shutter.

z This machine is equipped with a window

that allows you to check the position of the take-up lever. Look through this window and check that the thread is correctly fed through the take-up lever.

a Thread guide cover

Pass the thread under the thread guide plate,

i

and then pull it up.

1

a Thread guide plate

30

Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread

k

guide.

The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand, as shown.

1

a Needle bar thread guide

Next, use the needle threader to thread the needle. Continue with the procedure in “Threading the needle” (page 31).

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the

b

Threading the needle

left side of the machine.

This section describes how to thread the needle.

Memo

z The needle threader can be used with

sewing machine needles 75/11 through 100/16.

z Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker

cannot be used with the needle threader.

z The needle threader cannot be used with the

wing needle or the twin needle.

z If the needle threader cannot be used, refer

to “Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)” (page 33).

Pull the end of the thread passed through the

a

needle bar thread guide to the left, and then pass the thread through the thread guide disk from the front.

1

a Thread cutter

Note

z If the thread is pulled through and cannot be

cut correctly, lower the presser foot so that the thread is held in place before cutting the thread. If this operation is performed, skip

c.

step

z When using thread that quickly winds off the

spool, such as metallic thread, it may be difficult to thread the needle if the thread is cut. Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter, pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of thread after passing it through the thread guide disks (marked “7”).

1

a Thread guide disk

1

a 80 mm (3 inches) or more

Lower the presser foot lever to lower the

c

presser foot.

1

a Presser foot lever

Upper Threading 31

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Lower the needle threader lever on the left

d

side of the machine until it clicks, and then slowly return the lever to its original position.

1

a Needle threader lever

X The thread is passed through the eye of the

needle.

Note

z If the needle was not completely threaded,

but a loop in the thread was formed in the eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the

e

thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

1

a 5 cm (2 inches)

X The upper threading is finished.

Now that the upper threading and the lower threading are finished, you are ready to begin sewing.

Note

z If the needle is not raised, the needle

threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure to press (“Needle Position” button) to raise the needle before using the needle threader.

CAUTION

● When pulling out the thread, do not pull it with extreme force, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

32

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)

When using special thread, thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker, the wing needle or the twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below.

Thread the machine to the needle bar thread

a

guide.

• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” (page

28).

Lower the presser foot lever.

b

1

a Pressor foot lever

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle

c

from front to back.

Using the twin needle

With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra spool pin and the spool cap. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 138).

CAUTION

● Only use the twin needle (part code: X59296-151). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Install the twin needle.

a

• For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 39).

1

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the

d

thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

Thread the upper thread for the left needle

b

eye.

• For details, refer to steps “Threading the upper thread” (page 28).

Manually thread the left needle with the upper

c

thread.

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.

• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.

a through k of

Upper Threading 33

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin

d

winder shaft.

Insert the extra spool pin so that it is perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.

1

a Bobbin winder shaft

Swing down the spool pin so that it is

e

horizontal.

Thread the upper thread for the right side in

g

the same way that the upper thread for the left side was threaded.

1

a Thread guide cover

• For details, refer to step h through j of “Threading the upper thread” (page 28).

Without passing the thread through the needle

h

bar thread guide, manually thread the right needle.

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.

Place the upper thread spool for the needle on

f

the right side onto the extra spool pin, and then secure it with the spool cap.

The thread should unroll from the top front of the spool.

12

a Spool cap b Spool

• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

i

• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

CAUTION

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Turn on the sewing machine.

j

34

X The LCD comes on.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Select a stitch.

k

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 72).

• For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 138).

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Press (Needle mode selection key).

l

X (Needle mode selection key) lights up,

and the twin needle can now be used.

• To return to single needle sewing, press

(Needle mode selection key) until the key is

no longer lit.

Start sewing.

m

• For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 52).

X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to

each other.

CAUTION

● When changing the sewing direction, press (“Needle Position” button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric. Otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

● Do not try turning the fabric with the twin needle left down in the fabric, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

1

• Even after the sewing machine is turned off, the twin needle setting is not cancelled.

CAUTION

● When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Upper Threading 35

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the

e

Pulling up the bobbin thread

bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine.

When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.

a

• Refer to steps

a through e of “Installing the

bobbin” (page 26).

Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.

b

Do not cut the thread with the cutter.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

f

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

While lightly holding the upper thread with

c

your left hand with the needle in the upposition, press (“Needle Position” button) twice to lower and raise the needle.

1

a “Needle Position” button

X The bobbin thread is looped around the

upper thread and can be pulled up.

Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull

d

out the end of the bobbin thread.

2

1

36

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Replacing the Needle

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

CAUTION

● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

1

Replacing the Needle 37

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Fabric Type/Application

Broadcloth Cotton thread

Medium

weight fabrics

Gabardine

Thin fabrics

Thick

fabrics

Stretch

fabrics

Easily frayed fabrics

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50

Corduroy Synthetic thread

Thread

Type Weight

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel,

Lawn Cotton thread

Denim Cotton thread 30–50

Tweed Silk thread

Jersey

Tricot

Silk thread 50

Thread for knits 50–60

Cotton thread

60–80

50

50–80

Size of Needle

75/11–90/14

65/9–75/11

90/14–100/16

Ball point needle

(golden colored)

75/11–90/14

65/9–90/14Synthetic thread

For top-stitching

Memo

z The smaller the thread number, the thicker

the thread, and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.

z Use the ball point needle when sewing on

stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

z Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with

transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.

z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the

sewing machine is purchased.

38

Silk thread 50

Synthetic thread

30 90/14–100/16

Silk thread

CAUTION

● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table above. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

1

2

a Flat side b Needle type marking

■ Correct needle

Replacing the needle

Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle”.

Press (“Needle Position” button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle.

1

a “Needle Position” button

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

1

a Flat surface

■ Incorrect needle

If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.

1

a Flat surface

CAUTION

● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if (“Start/Stop” button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Place fabric or paper under the presser foot to

c

cover the hole in the needle plate.

Note

z Before replacing the needle, cover the hole

in the needle plate with fabric or paper to prevent the needle from falling into the machine.

Replacing the Needle 39

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Lower the presser foot lever.

d

1

a Presser foot lever

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then

e

use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle.

1

2

a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw

• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.

While holding the needle with your left hand,

g

use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

CAUTION

● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.

With the flat side of the needle toward the rear

f

of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.

1

a Needle stopper

40

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Replacing the Presser Foot

The presser foot presses down on the fabric.

Presser foot precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.

CAUTION

● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.

● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below. For details on using the side cutter “S”, refer to “Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter” (page 78).

Press (“Needle Position” button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle.

1

a “Needle Position” button

X The needle is raised.

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

1

CAUTION

● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if (“Start/Stop” button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Raise the presser foot lever.

c

a

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

Replacing the Presser Foot 41

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press the black button at the back of the

d

presser foot holder.

a

b

a Black button b Presser foot holder

X The presser foot holder releases the presser

foot.

Place a different presser foot below the holder

e

so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read.

a

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

g

presser foot is securely attached.

Note

z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

Buttonhole foot “A”

Overcasting foot “G”

Zigzag foot “J”

Button fitting foot “M”

b

a Presser foot holder b Notch c Pin

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the

f

presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the

c

presser foot holder.

1

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is attached.

Monogramming foot “N”

Blind stitch foot “R”

Side cutter “S”

z For details on the presser foot that should be

used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 138).

42

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Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot

The presser foot pressure (the amount of pressure applied to the fabric by the presser foot) can be adjusted. For best results, increase the pressure when sewing thin fabrics, and decrease the pressure when sewing thick fabrics.

Lower the presser foot lever.

a

1

a Presser foot lever

Turn the presser foot pressure dial at the back

b

of the machine to adjust the pressure of the presser foot.

The presser foot pressure can be set to one of four levels (between 1 and 4). The larger the setting, the stronger the pressure. Use setting 1 or 2 for thick fabrics, use setting 3 or 4 for thinner fabrics.

Removing the presser foot holder

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.

■ Removing the presser foot holder

Remove the presser foot.

a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot

b

holder screw.

b

a

c

a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

Align the presser foot holder with the lower-

a

left side of the presser bar.

1

ab

a Strong b Weak

When you are finished sewing, reset the dial to

c

3 (standard).

Hold the presser foot holder in place with your

b

right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

1

a Screwdriver

Note

z If the presser foot holder is not correctly

installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

Replacing the Presser Foot 43

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Using the walking foot

With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.

■ Attaching the walking foot

Remove the presser foot holder.

a

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 43).

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot

b

onto the needle clamp screw.

a

CAUTION

● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

●

Before starting to sew, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Note

z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a

speed between slow and medium.

■ Removing the walking foot

Press (“Needle Position” button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle.

b

a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw

Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser

c

foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw with the screwdriver.

a Presser foot holder screw

a

a “Needle Position” button

X The needle is raised.

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

Raise the presser foot lever.

c

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

1

a

44

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot

d

holder screw, and then remove the walking foot.

a

a Presser foot holder screw

Attach the presser foot holder.

e

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 43).

Memo

z Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement

stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used with the walking foot. For details on the stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 138).

1

Replacing the Presser Foot 45

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces

When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.

Stitching cylindrical pieces

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.

Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

a

X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-

arm sewing is possible.

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the

b

arm, and then sew from the top.

Sewing large pieces of fabric

The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier.

Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide

a

table.

Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.

Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

b

When you are finished with free-arm sewing,

c

install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.

46

X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-

arm sewing is possible.

Install the wide table.

c

Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into place. The lower right corner section of the wide table extends over the front section of the sewing machine bed.

a

a Lower right corner b Sewing machine bed

Note

z The optional wide table is available through

your brother dealer.

b

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Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to

d

adjust their height so the wide table will be level with the sewing machine bed.

CAUTION

● Do not move the sewing machine while the wide table is attached, otherwise damage or injuries may occur.

When you are finished using the wide table,

e

remove it.

While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it off to the left.

Install the flat bed attachment back in its

f

original position.

Memo

z With the legs folded up, the wide table can

be stored attached to the hard case.

z The knee lifter can be stored attached to the

bottom of the wide table.

1

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 47

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

48

2 SEWING BASICS

The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.

Sewing.....................................................................................................................50

General sewing procedure ................................................................................. 50

Positioning the fabric .........................................................................................51

Starting to sew ...................................................................................................52

Securing the stitching .........................................................................................54

Cutting the thread ..............................................................................................55

Adjusting the Thread Tension .................................................................................. 57

Thread tension ...................................................................................................57

Changing the tension of the upper thread ..........................................................58

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ....................................................................59

Adjusting the stitch width ..................................................................................59

Adjusting the stitch length..................................................................................60

Useful Functions......................................................................................................61

Changing the needle stop position .....................................................................61

Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches

Automatically cutting the thread........................................................................63

Saving stitch settings ..........................................................................................64

Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot...........................................65

Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................66

Trial sewing........................................................................................................66

Changing the sewing direction

Sewing curves ....................................................................................................66

Sewing thick fabrics ...........................................................................................67

Sewing thin fabrics .............................................................................................67

Sewing stretch fabrics ........................................................................................67

Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics..........................................................................68

Sewing an even seam allowance ........................................................................68

.............................................................................66

..........................................61

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing

Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION

● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.

● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or

bend.

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

1 Turn on the machine.

Turn on the sewing machine.For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine” (page 17).

2 Select the stitch.

3 Attach the presser foot.

4 Position the fabric.

5 Start sewing.

6 Cut the thread.

↓

Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 72).

↓

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

↓

Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly.For details on positioning the fabric, refer to “Positioning the fabric” (page 51).

↓

Start sewing.For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page

52).

↓

Cut the thread at the end of sewing. The thread may also be cut automatically.For details on cutting the thread, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 55).

50

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Positioning the fabric

Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Lower the presser foot lever.

The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected.

Press (“Needle Position” button) once or

b

twice to raise the needle.

1

e

1

a Presser foot lever

X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.

2

a “Needle Position” button

Place the fabric under the presser foot.

c

• If the seam allowance is positioned on the right side, sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way.

While holding the end of the thread and the

d

fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

Memo

z To adjust the pressure that the presser foot

applies to the fabric, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot” (page 43).

Sewing 51

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press (“Start/Stop” button) once.

Starting to sew

b

Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the sewing speed controller or the foot controller.

1

Note

Important:

z When the foot controller is plugged in,

a “Start/Stop” button

X The machine starts sewing.

(“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to start or stop sewing.

■ Using the operation buttons

Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (“Start/Stop” button).

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

a

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

a Sewing speed controller

1

• If you continue to hold

(“Start/Stop”

button) pressed immediately after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed.

When the end of the stitching is reached, press

c

(“Start/Stop” button) once.

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

down (in the fabric).

When you are finished sewing, raise the

d

needle, and then cut the threads.

X For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”

(page 55).

■ Using the foot controller

Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.

52

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on

b

the side of the sewing machine.

1

a Foot controller jack

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

z Foot controller: Model N5V

This foot controller can be used on this machine model NX-650.

Turn on the sewing machine.

c

Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly

e

press down on the foot controller.

Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

Slower

Faster

• Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly.

X The machine starts sewing.

When the end of the stitching is reached,

f

completely release the foot controller.

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

lowered (in the fabric).

When you are finished sewing, raise the

g

needle, and then cut the threads.

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page

55).

2

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

d

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

a Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed controller will be the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.

1

Memo

z When the foot controller is plugged in,

(“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to start or stop sewing.

z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains

lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the needle stop position” (page 61).

CAUTION

● Do not allow thread or dust to accumulate in the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

● Do not place objects on the foot controller, otherwise damage to the machine or injuries may occur.

● If the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, unplug the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

Sewing 53

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press

c

Securing the stitching

(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).

Keep (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”

When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not

button) held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching.

overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread.

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

a

beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.

a “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

1

X While (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”

button) is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.

After sewing back to the beginning of the

d

stitching, release (“Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button).

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (“Start/Stop” button) or press down

b

on the foot controller.

At this time, if

(“Start/Stop” button) is held

down, the machine sews at a low speed.

1

a “Start/Stop” button

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page

52).

X The machine starts sewing.

Press (“Start/Stop” button), or press down

e

on the foot controller.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal

sewing direction

When the end of the stitching is reached, press

f

(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).

Keep (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn.

X While (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”

button) is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.

54

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,

g

release (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (“Start/Stop” button), or press down

h

on the foot controller.

At this time, if (“Start/Stop” button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.

Cutting the thread

When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. The threads can be cut in either of two ways.

■ Using (“Thread Cutter” button)

When you wish to finish the stitching, press

a

(“Thread Cutter” button) once.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal

sewing direction.

After sewing to the end of the stitching, the

i

sewing machine stops.

Press (“Start/Stop” button) or release foot controller.

1

3

1

2

5

4

6

2

a Beginning of stitching b End of stitching

■ Sewing reinforcement stitches

When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching, pressing (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.

2

1

a “Thread Cutter” button

X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever.

b

a

a Presser foot lever

CAUTION

● Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button) after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.

1

a Reverse stitching b Reinforcement stitching

2

Memo

z Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement

stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 138).

Note

z Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button) if

there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.

Memo

z The machine can be set so that the threads

will be cut when sewing is finished. For details on setting the machine so that the threads are cut automatically, refer to “Automatically cutting the thread” (page 63).

Sewing 55

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

1

■ Using the manual thread cutter

When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon or metallic threads, or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut the threads.

When you wish to finish the stitching and the

a

sewing machine is stopped, press (“Needle Position” button) once to raise the needle.

1

a “Needle Position” button

X The needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever.

b

a

a Presser foot lever

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,

c

and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

a Thread cutter

56

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Adjusting the Thread Tension

The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal.

■ Upper thread is too loose

Thread tension

You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used.

■ Correct thread tension

The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric.

1

2

3

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread

■ Upper thread is too tight

If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.

4

If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.

5

1

2

3

4

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of

the fabric.

2

1

2

3

4

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of

the fabric.

5

Adjusting the Thread Tension 57

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

To increase the thread tension, press

c

Changing the tension of the upper thread

The tension of the upper thread can be changed using thread tension keys.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

(Thread tension key). To decrease the thread

tension, press (Thread tension key).

X The tension of the upper thread is changed.

Select a stitch.

b

X A screen containing settings for the selected

stitch appears.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 72).

• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.

• If the setting is changed, the highlighting on the setting is erased.

• Now you can begin sewing. Sew trial stitches to check the thread tension, and then change the setting if necessary.

Memo

z To reset the thread tension to its standard

setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.

z Press (Reset key) to return the stitch

width, stitch length, and upper thread tension to their default settings.

z The settings can be saved so that they will

always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving stitch settings” (page 64).

Note

z If the upper thread is not threaded correctly

or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it may not be possible to set the correct thread tension. If the correct thread tension cannot be achieved, rethread the upper thread and insert the bobbin correctly.

58

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length

The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 138).

Adjusting the stitch width

The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to make the stitch wider or narrower.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

X A screen containing settings for the selected

stitch appears.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 72).

• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.

To make the stitch width narrower, press

c

(Stitch width key). To make the stitch width

wider, press (Stitch width key).

–

+

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.

Memo

z To reset the stitch width to its standard

setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.

z Press (Reset key) to return the stitch

width, stitch length, and upper thread tension to their default settings.

z If the straight stitch (left needle position or

triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left.

z The settings can be saved so that they will

always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving stitch settings” (page 64).

z The sewing machine can be set so that the

stitch width can easily be changed with the sewing speed controller. For details, refer to “Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller” (page 106).

z indicates that the setting cannot be

adjusted.

2

X The stitch width is changed.

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 59

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

To make the stitch length shorter, press

Adjusting the stitch length

The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch longer or shorter.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

X A screen containing settings for the selected

stitch appears.

c

(Stitch length key). To make the stitch length

longer, press (Stitch length key).

X The stitch length is changed.

–

+

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 72).

• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.

Memo

z To reset the stitch length to its standard

setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.

z Press (Reset key) to return the stitch

width, stitch length, and upper thread tension to their default settings.

z The settings can be saved so that they will

always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving stitch settings” (page 64).

z indicates that the setting cannot be

adjusted.

CAUTION

● If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.

60

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Useful Functions

Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.

Changing the needle stop position

When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Press (Needle stop position key).

b

X (Needle stop position key) lights up,

and the machine is now set to stop with the needle in the raised position.

Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches

The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching.Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 138).

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 72).

2

• To return the machine to the setting where

the needle is stopped in the lowered position,

press (Needle stop position key) until the

key is no longer lit.

• Even after the sewing machine is turned off, the needle stop position setting is not cancelled.

Useful Functions 61

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press (Automatic reverse/reinforcement

c

stitch key).

This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

X (Automatic reverse/reinforcement

stitch key) lights up, and the sewing machine

is set for automatic reverse/reinforcement

stitching.

• To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement

stitching off, press (Automatic reverse/

reinforcement stitch key) until the key is no

longer lit.

• When the sewing machine is turned off, the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting is cancelled.

After reaching the end of the stitching, press

e

(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button)

once.

This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

1

a “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the sewing machine stops.

Position the fabric under the presser foot, and

d

then press (“Start/Stop” button) once.

1

a “Start/Stop” button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the machine starts sewing.

Memo

z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT

be sewn until (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) is pressed. (“Start/Stop” button) may be pressed to stop stitching when needed such as for pivoting corners.

62

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Position the fabric under the presser foot, and

d

Automatically cutting the

then press (“Start/Stop” button) once.

thread

The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called “programmed thread-cutting”. If programmed threadcutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set. This setting is convenient if a stitch for sewing buttonholes or bar tacks is selected.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

a “Start/Stop” button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the machine starts sewing.

After reaching the end of the stitching, press

e

(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button)

once.

This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

1

2

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 72).

Press (Automatic thread cutting key).

c

X (Automatic thread cutting key) and

(Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch

key) light up, and the sewing machine is set

for programmed thread-cutting and

automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.

• To turn off programmed thread-cutting, press

(Automatic thread cutting key) until the

key is no longer lit.

• When the sewing machine is turned off, the programmed thread-cutting setting is cancelled.

1

a “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the sewing machine stops and cuts the thread.

The thread is cut here.

Memo

z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT

be sewn and the thread will not automatically be cut until (“Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button) is pressed.

(“Start/Stop” button) may be pressed to stop stitching when needed such as for pivoting corners.

Useful Functions 63

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press (Manual memory key).

Saving stitch settings

b

X “Saving...” appears while the settings for the

thread tension, stitch width and stitch length

Adjusted thread tension and stitch width and length

are being saved.

settings can be saved so that they will be specified each time the stitch is selected. The various settings can be saved for each utility stitch.

X After the settings for the thread tension,

stitch width and stitch length are saved, the initial stitch screen appears again.

Select the stitch, and then adjust the thread

a

tension and stitch width and length.

To adjust the thread tension, press or

(Thread tension keys). To adjust the stitch

width, press or (Stitch width keys). To

adjust the stitch length, press or (Stitch

length keys).

• The next time that the stitch is selected, the saved settings are the first ones that are displayed.

• To clear the saved settings and return the thread tension and stitch width and length to their default settings, press (Reset key). To use the default settings the next time that the stitch is selected, press (Manual memory key) to save the settings.

1

3

2

a Thread tension keys b Stitch width keys c Stitch length keys

123

a Upper thread tension b Stitch width (mm) c Stitch length (mm)

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 72).

• For details on changing the thread tension, refer to “Changing the tension of the upper thread” (page 58).

X The thread tension and stitch width and

length are changed.

64

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Using the knee lifter

Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot

Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric.

Stop the sewing machine.

a

• Do not use the knee lifter while the sewing machine is operating.

With your knee, press the knee lifter to the

b

right.

Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right.

■ Installing the knee lifter

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

Insert the knee lifter into its jack on the front

b

of the sewing machine in the lower-right corner.

Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the notches in the jack, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible.

2

X The presser foot is raised.

Release the knee lifter.

c

X The presser foot is lowered.

CAUTION

● While sewing, keep your knee away from the knee lifter. If the knee lifter is pressed while the sewing machine is operating, the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

1

a Tabs b Notches

Note

z If the knee lifter is not fully inserted into its

jack, it may fall out while the sewing machine is operating.

Useful Functions 65

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Useful Sewing Tips

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

Trial sewing

After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing direction

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

a

sewing machine.

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing, press (“Needle Position” button) to lower the needle.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to “Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 68).

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the

b

fabric.

Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

Lower the presser foot lever and continue

c

sewing.

66

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Release the button. The foot will lock in place

c

Sewing thick fabrics

■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

level with the seam, allowing the fabric to feed.

■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching

Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level.

a

a Sewing direction

When you encounter a seam that is too thick

a

to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever.

Press the black button (presser foot holding

b

pin) on the left side of zigzag foot “J”. Keep the button held in and lower the presser foot.

X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the

foot will return to its normal position.

CAUTION

● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

1

a Stabilizer material or paper

2

1

a Presser foot holding pin

Note

z The presser foot needs to be in a level

position before pressing the black button (presser foot holding pin) on the left side of zigzag foot “J”.

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

1

a Basting

Useful Sewing Tips 67

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking

Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics

When sewing the fabrics that may stick to the presser foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the presser foot to the non stick foot.

The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).

5

1

a Leather

Sewing an even seam allowance

To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.

■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot

Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.

1

2

a Seam b Presser foot

■ Aligning the fabric with the stitch guide foot

Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric aligned with a desired position of markings on the stitch guide foot.

1

2

a Seam b Presser foot c Centimeters d Inches e Needle plate f 16 mm (5/8 inch)

4

3

6

a Seam b Stitch guide foot c Markings

68

1

2

3

3 UTILITY STITCHES

The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.

Selecting Stitching ............................... 70

Selecting stitch types and patterns

Selecting stitching ..........................72

Overcasting Stitches ............................ 76

Sewing overcasting stitches

using overcasting foot “G”............. 76

Sewing overcasting stitches

using zigzag foot “J” ...................... 77

Sewing overcasting stitches

using the optional side cutter .........78

Basic Stitching ..................................... 80

Basting ...........................................80

Basic stitching ................................81

Blind Hem Stitching ............................ 82

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing....84

Buttonhole sewing.......................... 85

Button sewing ................................89

Zipper Insertion................................... 91

Inserting a centered zipper ............91

Inserting a side zipper .................... 93

Zipper/piping Insertion ....................... 96

Inserting a centered zipper ............96

Inserting a piping ...........................97

Sewing Stretch Fabrics

and Elastic Tape................................... 98

Stretch stitching ............................. 98

Elastic attaching .............................98

Appliqué, Patchwork

and Quilt Stitching ............................100

Appliqué stitching ........................101

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching

Piecing ......................................... 102

Quilting........................................ 104

Free-motion quilting..................... 105

Satin stitching using the sewing

speed controller ........................... 106

.......70

.......102

Reinforcement Stitching ....................108

Triple stretch stitching..................108

Bar tack stitching..........................108

Darning ........................................ 110

Eyelet Stitching..................................112

Horizontal Stitching ..........................113

Decorative Stitching ..........................115

Fagoting........................................116

Scallop stitching ...........................117

Smocking......................................117

Shell tuck stitching .......................118

Joining .......................................... 119

Heirloom stitching........................119

Sewing the Various Built-In

Decorative Patterns ...........................122

Sewing beautiful patterns .............122

Sewing patterns ............................122

Combining patterns ......................123

Repeat sewing patterns.................124

Checking the selected pattern ......124

Changing the pattern size.............125

Changing the stitch density ..........126

Changing the pattern length .........127

Shifting patterns ...........................128

Mirror imaging the pattern........... 129

Saving patterns .............................130

Retrieving a pattern......................130

Realigning the pattern ..................131

Designing a Pattern ...........................133

Drawing a sketch of the pattern ...133

Entering the pattern data.............. 134

Examples of designs ......................136

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Selecting Stitching

You can select any of the various types of stitching available.

 Preset utillity stitch

Selecting stitch types and patterns

A stitch can be selected from the following types available. Stitch patterns can be selected through either direct select (by pressing the key for a specific stitch) or number selection (by entering the number for the stitch pattern). For details on the types of stitches available, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 138).

■ Direct selection



The most frequently used utility stitches have been assigned to the numeric keys. These stitches can be selected simply by pressing the key.

Saved patterns

Frequently used patterns and combined

patterns can be saved on the machine's

memory and easily retrieved using

(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key) and

the numeric keys. For details, refer to

“Saving patterns” (page 130).

After pressing (Preset utility stitch/saved

pattern key) to select the stitch mode, press the

numeric key assigned with the desired stitch.

With direct selection, there are two stitch modes:

preset utility stitch mode and saved pattern

mode . When the machine is turned on or

when the (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern

key) is pressed, the machine enters preset utility

stitch mode, indicated by in the lower-left

corner of the screen. To enter saved pattern

mode, indicated by in the lower-left corner of

the screen, press the (Preset utility stitch/

saved pattern key). Each press of (Preset

utility stitch/saved pattern key) switches the mode

between the preset utility stitch mode and

saved pattern mode .

1

/

■ Number selection

After pressing (Utility stitch key), (Decorative stitch key) or (Character stitch key) to select the stitch mode, use the numeric keys to type in the number for the desired stitch.

1

2

/

3

//

4

a Utility stitch key b Decorative stitch key c Character stitch key d Numeric keys

 Utility stitches (No.01-71)

There are 71 utility stitches, including straight stitches, overcasting stitches and buttonhole stitches.

2

a Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key b Numeric keys

70

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

 Decorative stitches

There are two decorative stitch modes: decorative

stitch 1 mode and decorative stitch 2 mode

.

If (Decorative stitch key) is pressed once,

decorative stitch 1 mode is selected. If

(Decorative stitch key) is pressed twice,

decorative stitch 2 mode is selected. Each

press of (Decorative stitch key) switches the

mode between decorative stitch 1 mode and

decorative stitch 2 mode .

Decorative stitches (No.01-31)

There are 31 decorative stitches, including hearts, leaves and flowers.

Satin stitches (No.32-47)

There are 16 satin stitches.

Step patterns (No.48-49)

Satin stitches (No.32-47) can be shifted to the left or right by half the width of the pattern, allowing you to create a stepshaped pattern. Select stitch No. 48 or 49 to specify how the patterns are shifted.For details, refer to “Shifting patterns” (page

128).



There are three character stitch modes: Gothic

font mode , Script font mode and

outline style mode .

If (Character stitch key) is pressed once,

Gothic font mode is selected. If

(Character stitch key) is pressed twice, Script font

mode is selected. If (Character stitch

key) is pressed three times, outline style mode

stitch key) switches the mode between the Gothic

font mode , Script font mode and

outline style mode .

Character stitches

is selected. Each press of (Character

Gothic font (No.01-97)

There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font.

Script font (No.01-97)

There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the Script font.

Outline style (No.01-97)

There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the outline style.

3

Cross-stitches (No.50-59)

There are 10 types of cross-stitches.

Decorative satin stitches (No.60-69)

There are 10 decorative satin stitches.

My Custom Stitch (No.99)

You can design original stitches. (For detailes, refer to “Designing a Pattern” (page 133).)

Utility decorative stitches (No.01–39)

Some utility stitches can be used as decorative stitches. There are 39 of these stitches.

Selecting Stitching 71

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

After selecting the stitch mode, select the

e

Selecting stitching

stitch pattern.

Using the operation panel keys, select the desired stitch. Ten of the most often used utility stitches can quickly be selected with the numeric keys. Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected. The machine can also be set to select the straight stitch (center needle position). For details, refer to “Changing the settings” (page 19).

Determine the stitch that you wish to use.

a

• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings” (page 138).

1

a Stitch pattern plate

Determine which presser foot should be used

b

with the selected stitch.

The presser feet are stored in the accessory compartment.

• For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 138).

Attach the presser foot.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Turn on the sewing machine.

d

■ With direct selection

With direct selection, there are two stitch modes: preset utility stitch mode and saved pattern mode .

Press (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern

a

key) to select the stitch mode.

: Preset utility stitch

The 10 stitch patterns printed on the

numeric keys can be selected directly.

When appears in the lower-left corner

of the screen when the machine is turned

on or when the (Preset utility stitch/

saved pattern key) is pressed.

: Saved patterns

The 10 stitch patterns saved with the

numeric keys can be selected directly.

When appears in the lower-left corner

of the screen when (Preset utility

stitch/saved pattern key) is pressed.

X When a direct selection mode is selected,

(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key)

lights up.

X After the icon for the selected stitch mode

appears in the center of the screen, a screen

for selecting the stitch appears with the icon

for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.

However, when the machine is turned on,

appears only in the lower-left corner of

the screen and does not appear in the center

of the screen.

X The straight stitch (left needle position) is

shown selected in the LCD.

72

 Example: preset utility stitch

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press the key assigned with the stitch to select

b

the stitch.

• Continue with step f (on page 74).

■ With number selection

There are three modes of stitches that can be

selected by number: utility stitch mode ,

decorative stitch mode and character stitch

mode .

In addition, there are two decorative stitch modes

: decorative stitch 1 mode and

decorative stitch 2 mode . There are three

character stitch modes : Gothic font mode

, Script font mode and outline style

mode .

Press the stitch mode key for the stitch that

a

you wish to use.

Utility stitches

: 71 utility stitches are available.

Decorative stitches

: 69 stitches, including decorative

stitches, satin stitches, step patterns,

cross stitch and decorative satin

stitches, are available.

When (Decorative stitch key) is

pressed once.

Character stitches

: Gothic font

97 letter, symbol and numbers are

available.

When (Character stitch key) is

pressed once.

: Script font

97 letter, symbol and numbers are

available.

When (Character stitch key) is

pressed twice.

: Outline style

97 letter, symbol and numbers are

available.

When (Character stitch key) is

pressed three times.

X A pressed key lights up.

X After the icon for the selected stitch mode

appears in the center of the screen, a screen for selecting the stitch appears with the icon for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.

 Example: decorative stitches

3

: 39 utility decorative stitches are

available.

When (Decorative stitch key) is

pressed twice.

Memo

z When pressing a stitch mode key multiple

times, continue pressing the key after the icon for the stitch mode appears in the lower-left corner of the screen.

Selecting Stitching 73

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Use the numeric keys to type in the two-digit

b

number for the desired stitch.

For stitches 01 through 09, the stitch can also

be selected by using the numeric keys to type in

a one-digit number, then pressing (OK

key).

X After the entered number appears in the

center of the screen, the stitch is selected.

 Example

• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer

to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings”

(page 138).

• If the first number (tens when entering two-

digit numbers, ones when entering one-digit

numbers) was incorrectly entered, press

(Cancel/clear key) to erase the entered

number.

• If an incorrect two-digit number was entered, an error beep is sounded, and the entered number is cleared.

If necessary, specify the setting for automatic

f

reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc.

• For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, begin on page 76.

Note

z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

■ To select a different stitch

Check the icon in the lower-left corner of the screen for the current mode.

The current mode is indicated.

 To select a stitch in the same mode as the

current one

• In the utility stitch mode, simply type in the number for the desired stitch.

• In the decorative stitch mode and character

stitch mode, press (Cancel/clear key) to

cancel the stitch, and then type in the

number for the desired stitch.

• However, if the currently selected stitch was

sewn at least one time, typing in a stitch

number switches to the new stitch, even if

the previous stitch was not canceled.

Memo

z Patterns can be combined by selecting a

different decorative stitch while a stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving patterns” (page 130).

 To select a stitch in a different mode as the

current one

• After selecting a different mode, type in the number for the desired stitch. (Refer to steps

e on pages 72 through 74.)

When switching from the utility stitch mode to the decorative stitch or character stitch mode or the other way around, all stitches that have been selected are erased so that a new stitch can be selected. In order to prevent stitches from incorrectly being erased, the following confirmation message appears.

Memo

z For details on adjusting the stitch width and

length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length” (page 59).

74

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

• To erase the stitch and select a different one,

press (OK key), and then change the

stitch mode.

• To stop the current stitch from being erased,

press (Cancel/clear key) to return to the

previous screen.

Memo

z After changing stitch settings such as the

stitch length and width or after combining patterns, the stitch pattern can be saved with its current settings. For details, refer to “Saving patterns” (page 130).

3

Selecting Stitching 75

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Overcasting Stitches

Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”

Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.

Pattern

Stitch Name

11

Overcasting

stitch

Attach overcasting foot “G”.

a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

b

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric

c

against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

12

13

Numeric

Key

–

G

Preventing fraying in medium weight and thin fabrics

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

d

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide.

a Needle drop point

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.0

(1/16)

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5 (1/16–3/16)

1

1.0–4.0

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Presser

Foot

G

76

a

a Guide

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”

Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.

Stitch Name

Zigzag stitch

(center

needle

position)

Zigzag stitch (right needle

position)

2-point

zigzag stitch

3-point

zigzag stitch

Overcasting

stitch

Pattern

07

08

09

10

14

15

16

Numeric

Key

–

Application

Preventing fraying (center baseline/ reverse stitching)

Preventing fraying (right baseline/ reinforcement stitching)

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics

Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics

Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.3–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Presser

Foot

3

J

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

J

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

b

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

Sew along the edge of the fabric with the

c

needle dropping off the edge at the right.

a

a Needle drop point

1

a Needle drop point

Memo

z For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,

decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot” (page 43).

Overcasting Stitches 77

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter

Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.

Stitch Name

Overcasting

stitch

Pattern

63

64

65

66

67

Application

Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric

Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric

Preventing fraying in thin and medium weight fabrics while cutting the fabric

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

d

0.0–2.5

(0–3/32)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0–4.0

( 1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

( 1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

( 1/16–3/16)

Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter onto the needle clamp screw.

a

Presser

Foot

S

Remove the presser foot.

a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Lower the presser foot lever, and then

b

manually thread the needle.

• The needle threader cannot be used. If the needle threader is used with the side cutter, the sewing machine may be damaged.

Raise the presser foot lever.

c

78

b

a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw

Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin

e

is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever.

b

a

a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin

X The side cutter is attached.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

f

side cutter is securely attached.

Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,

g

and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine.

Select a stitch.

h

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Position the fabric in the side cutter.

j

The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter.

a

a Guide plate

• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.

Lower the presser foot lever, and then start

k

sewing.

X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching

is sewn.

3

Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in

i

the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

1

a 2 cm (3/4 inch)

• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the seam allowance will be about 5 mm (3/16 inch).

1

a 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Memo

z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer

of 13-oz. denim.

z After using the side cutter, clean it by

removing any lint or dust.

z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,

use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.

Overcasting Stitches 79

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Basic Stitching

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.

Numeric

Key

Application

– Temporarily securing

Basic stitching and sewing gathers or

Stitch Name

Basting stitch

Pattern

06

01

pintucks (left baseline/

Straight stitch

(left needle

position)

02

reverse stitching)

Basic stitching and sewing gathers or

–

pintucks (left baseline/ reinforcement stitching)

Straight stitch

(center

needle

position)

Triple stretch

stitch

03

04

Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (center baseline/reverse stitching)

Reinforcing seams and sewing stretch fabrics

Basting

Sew basting with a stitch length between 5 mm (3/16 inch) and 30 mm (1-3/16 inches).

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)20(3/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

5-30

(3/16-1-3/16)

0.2-5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2-5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2-5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Start sewing.

c

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page

52).

Presser

Foot

J

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

J

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select stitch

b

06

.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

80

1

a 5-30 mm (3/16-1-3/16 inches)

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Changing the needle position

Basic stitching

Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

J

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

c

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

d

beginning of the stitching.

Start sewing.

e

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page

52).

• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 54).

The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position).

12

a Straight stitch (left needle position) b Straight stitch (center needle position)

When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.

1

0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0

3

When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

f

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page

55).

543

6

2

a Stitch width setting b Distance from the needle position to the right

side of the presser foot

c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 59).

Basic Stitching 81

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Blind Hem Stitching

Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.

Numeric

Key

–

Application

Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics

Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics

Stitch Name

Blind hem

stitch

Pattern

17

18

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

a

hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.

4

2

1

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Desired edge of hem d 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Fold back the fabric along the basting, and

b

then position the fabric with the wrong side

3

facing up.

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

00

3← – 3→

(0)

00

3← – 3→

(0)

Attach blind hem foot “R”.

c

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

R

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

d

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

Position the fabric with the edge of the folded

e

hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

Presser

Foot

R

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting

82

1

2

1

a Wrong side of fabric b Fold of hem c Guide

3

2

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly

f

catches the fold of the hem.

1

a Needle drop point

1

–

+

■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold

The needle is too far to the right. Press (of the Stitch width keys) to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

3

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

• For details on changing the stitch width, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length” (page 59).

a Stitch width

■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold

The needle is too far to the left. Press (of the Stitch width keys) to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

Sew with the fold of the hem against the

g

presser foot guide.

Remove the basting stitching.

h

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

Memo

z For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,

decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot” (page 43).

Blind Hem Stitching 83

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons.

Stitch Name

Buttonhole

stitch

Button-

sewing stitch

Pattern

48

49

50

51

52

53

54

55

56

57

61

Numeric

Key

Application

Horizontal buttonholes on thin

–

and medium weight fabrics

Horizontal buttonholes on areas

–

that are subject to strain

Horizontal

–

buttonholes on thick fabrics

Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch

–

or knit fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch

–

fabrics

– Bound buttonholes

Keyhole buttonholes

–

for thick or plush fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes

–

for medium weight and thick fabrics

Horizontal buttonhole

–

for thick or plush fabrics

– Button sewing

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

6.0

(15/64)

6.0

(15/64)

5.0

(3/16)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

3.5

(1/8)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

2.5–4.5

(3/32–3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

1.0

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32–1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

––M

Presser

Foot

A

84

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Buttonhole sewing

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

1

a Reinforcement stitching

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

1

2

5

1

Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position

a

and length of the buttonhole.

1

3

A

a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks on buttonhole foot e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

3

4

a Marks on fabric

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole

b

foot “A”, and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 85

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate

Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

1

2

3

a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of

button)

c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

Position the fabric with the front end of the

e

buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

1

A

2

a Mark on fabric b Red marks on buttonhole foot

Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size.

1

2

a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch)

X The size of the buttonhole is set.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

d

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

a

a Do not reduce the gap.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

f

possible.

a

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

1

2

a Buttonhole lever b Bracket

86

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

g

your left hand, and then start sewing.

1

a Eyelet punch

X Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,

h

and then remove the fabric.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

i

position.

Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at

j

the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut.

1

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.

CAUTION

● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips.

■ Changing the density of the stitching

Adjust the stitch length.

3

a Pin

Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and

k

open the buttonhole.

1

a Seam ripper

For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

–

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 60).

• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching.

+

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 87

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Changing the stitch width

Adjust the stitch width.

–

+

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 59).

Memo

z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch

length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread.

Hook the gimp thread onto the part of

a

buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

b

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select stitch 52 or 53.

c

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the

d

gimp thread.

Lower the presser foot lever and the

e

buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

f

thread to remove any slack.

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp

g

thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.

With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the

h

gimp thread remaining at the top end of the buttonhole.

Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.

88

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as

e

Button sewing

the distance between the holes in the button.

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

Measure the distance between the holes in the

a

button to be attached.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the

b

drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).

a

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the

machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Attach button-sewing foot “M”.

c

Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.

f

a

a Button

X The button is held in place.

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.

Turn the handwheel toward you

g

(counterclockwise) to check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button.

If it seems as if the needle will hit the button, remeasure the distance between the holes in the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.

3

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select stitch

d

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

• Since the end of the thread will be tied off later, do not set the sewing machine for programmed-thread cutting.

61

.

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 89

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Start sewing.

h

Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow).

X The sewing machine automatically stops

after sewing reinforcement stitches.

• If additional strength is needed to secure the button, perform the button-sewing operation twice.

• Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button).

Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the

i

bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.

■ Attaching a shank to a button

To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely.

Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,

a

and then pull the shank lever toward you.

1

a Shank lever

After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread

b

with plenty of excess, wind it around the thread between the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching.

Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end and at the beginning of the stitching on the wrong side of the fabric.

When you are finished attaching the button,

j

slide the drop feed lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

a

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the

machine)

Memo

z The feed dog position switch is normally set

to the right side (as seen from the rear of machine).

z The feed dogs come up when you start

sewing again.

90

Cut off any excess thread.

c

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Zipper Insertion

A zipper can be sewn in place.

Stitch Name

Straight stitch

(center

needle

position)

Pattern

03

Numeric

Key

Application

Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and pintucks

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

Presser

Foot

I

There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below.

Press open the seam allowance from the

c

Inserting a centered zipper

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other.

wrong side of the fabric.

1

2

1

a Wrong side of fabric

Align the seam with the center of the zipper,

d

3

a Right side of fabric b Stitching c End of zipper opening

Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches

a

up to the zipper opening.

and then baste the zipper in place.

2

1

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the

3

zipper opening.

• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page

81).

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Zipper

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the

b

edge of the fabric.

3

1

2

a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening

3

4

Zipper Insertion 91

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

e

of zipper foot “I”.

1

I

2

a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select stitch

f

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

03

.

CAUTION

● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Topstitch around the zipper.

g

1

2

a Stitching b Right side of fabric c Basting stitching d End of zipper opening

3

4

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Remove the basting stitching.

h

92

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press open the seam allowance from the

c

Inserting a side zipper

wrong side of the fabric.

Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings.

1

2

3

a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening

The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration.

Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches

a

up to the zipper opening.

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page

81).

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the

b

edge of the fabric.

1

a Wrong side of fabric

Press the seam allowance so that the right side

d

(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).

1

2

a Wrong side of fabric b 3 mm (1/8 inch)

Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of

e

the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place.

2

1

3

1

2

a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening

4

3

a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

f

of zipper foot “I”.

If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot.

1

I

2

a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Zipper Insertion 93

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Select stitch

g

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

03

.

CAUTION

● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the

h

extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper.

Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then

j

baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.

1

a Basting stitching

Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin

k

of zipper foot “I”.

If the presser foot holder was attached to the right pin in step

f, change it to the left pin.

1

I

2

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the

i

end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing.

a Pin on the left side b Needle drop point

Topstitch around the zipper.

l

Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot.

3

2

1

a Right side of fabric b End of zipper opening c Reverse stitches d Beginning of stitching e Basting stitching

4

5

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

94

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the

m

end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing.

Remove the basting stitching.

n

3

Zipper Insertion 95

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Zipper/piping Insertion

A zipper and piping can be sewn in place.

Stitch Name

Straight stitch

(left needle

position)

Pattern

01

Numeric

Key

Application

Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and piping

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

Presser

Foot

There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a piping are described below, with the adjustable zipper/piping foot.

Slide the presser foot over either the left or

e

Inserting a centered zipper

Refer to step a–d of “Inserting a centered

a

zipper” (page 91).

Remove the presser foot and presser foot

b

holder (page 43) to attach the screw-on adjustable zipper/piping foot.

right feed dog.

Left sewing position

Change the needle position so that the needle

f

does not touch the presser foot.

For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 59).

Right sewing position

Note

z Use a screw driver to securely tighten the

screw that holds the presser foot. If the screw is loose, the needle may break and cause injures.

a Needle drop point

1

Select stitch

c

Loosen the positioning screw on the back of

d

the presser foot.

01

.

1

a Positioning screw

96

CAUTION

● After adjusting the needle position, slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Securely tighten the positioning screw with a

g

screwdriver.

1

Inserting a piping

Place the piping between two fabric pieces

a

turned inside out, as shown below.

1

2

3

a Positioning screw

Topstitch around the zipper.

h

a Fabric b Piping c Fabric

1

2

a Stitching b Right side of fabric c Basting stitching d End of zipper opening

3

4

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable

b

zipper/piping foot (page 96).

Sew along the piping.

c

After sewing, turn fabric pieces.

d

3

Remove the basting stitching.

i

Zipper/piping Insertion 97

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Numeric

Key

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Presser

Auto Manual Auto Manual

Stretch stitch

2-point

zigzag stitch

3-point

zigzag stitch

Elastic-

attaching

stitch

05

09

10

34

Stretch fabrics

–

Attaching elastic

Attaching elastic to

–

stretch fabrics

1.0

(1/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Stretch stitching

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

J

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the

a

fabric.

Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.

Select stitch

b

05

.

Foot

J

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

Sew the fabric without stretching it.

c

98

1

2

a Elastic tape b Pin

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

J

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch.

c

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

72).

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while

d

stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric.

While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.

3

CAUTION

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 99

Brother NX-650 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual