Brother MS-5, MS-6 Operation Manual

p
l
e
X
S
S
KNOWING YOUR
WING M
y
.
SE
SEWING BASIC
TILITY STITCHE
APPENDI
ACHINE
Computerized Sewing Machin
O
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequentl
eration Manua
asked questions (FAQs)
Important Safety Instructions
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine. This machine is intended for household use.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord.
When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing
machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could
cause injuries.
When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements,
otherwise you may injure your back or knees.
4 Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
Do not store objects on the foot controller.
Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
5 Special care is required when sewing:
Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.
Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.
Do not use outdoors.
7 For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
1
8 For repair or adjustment:
• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
Save these instructions.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
This sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children, and assistance may be required if used by a person with a disability.
2
CONTENTS
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................5
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS .................................................... 5
The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 5
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 6
Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 6
Operation panel ................................................................................................................................................ 7
Flat bed attachment ......................................................................................................................................... 7
ACCESSORIES ..................................................................................................................... 8
Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 8
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .....................................................................................9
Power supply precautions ................................................................................................................................ 9
Power supply .................................................................................................................................................... 9
Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................ 10
Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button) ..................................................... 10
Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. 10
THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................11
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 11
Lower threading ............................................................................................................................................. 14
Upper threading ............................................................................................................................................. 16
Drawing up the lower thread .......................................................................................................................... 19
REPLACING THE NEEDLE .................................................................................................20
Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ 20
Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... 20
Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 21
Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 21
Sewing with a twin needle .............................................................................................................................. 23
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ......................................................................................24
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. 24
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. 25
2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................26
SEWING ............................................................................................................................26
General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................. 26
Selecting stitching .......................................................................................................................................... 27
Starting to sew ............................................................................................................................................... 28
Thread tension ............................................................................................................................................... 29
USEFUL SEWING TIPS ...................................................................................................... 31
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 31
Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 31
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ 31
Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... 31
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................................................................................... 32
Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... 33
Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... 33
Using a free-arm style .................................................................................................................................... 33
3
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
3. UTILITY STITCHES ........................................................................................34
OVERCASTING STITCHES ................................................................................................ 34
BASIC STITCHING ............................................................................................................35
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................ 35
BLIND HEM STITCHING .................................................................................................. 36
BUTTONHOLE SEWING ...................................................................................................39
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 42
ZIPPER INSERTION ...........................................................................................................44
SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ............................................................45
Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 45
Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. 45
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ........................................................46
Appliqués ....................................................................................................................................................... 46
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 47
Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... 47
Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... 48
Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... 49
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING .........................................................................................50
Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... 50
Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 50
DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................52
Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... 53
Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 53
Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... 54
Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 54
Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 55
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 55
4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................56
STITCH SETTINGS ............................................................................................................. 56
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 56
MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................61
Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 61
Cleaning the bobbin case ............................................................................................................................... 61
TROUBLESHOOTING .......................................................................................................63
ERROR MESSAGES ............................................................................................................66
Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) .................................................................... 66
INDEX ...............................................................................................................................67
4
1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
The main parts
1
a Bobbin winder (page 11)
This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread.
b Spool pin (pages 11 and 16)
This holds the spool of thread.
c Hole for extra spool pin (page 23)
This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with two needles. Not for lubrication.
d Upper tension-control dial (page 29)
This controls the tension of the upper thread.
e Thread guide (pages 11 and 16)
This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and then threading the machine.
f Thread take-up lever (page 17) g Thread cutter (page 29)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
h Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
(pages 7 and 33)
i Operation buttons (page 6)
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.
j Operation panel (page 7)
This is used to select the stitch and specify the various settings.
k Handwheel
Used to manually raise and lower the needle.
l Main power and sewing light switch (page 9)
You can turn the main power and sewing light switch on and off.
m Jack/socket connector (page 9)
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the jack/ socket connector.
n Foot controller jack/socket (page 10)
Plug in the foot controller plug.
o Feed dog position lever (pages 42 and 49)
Use the feed dog position lever to lower the feed dogs.
p Presser foot lever (page 16)
Used to raise and lower the presser foot.
q Foot controller (page 10)
You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to start and stop sewing.
r Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.
5
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
Needle and presser foot section
d Presser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot holder in place.
e Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching.
f Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
g Quick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the quick-
set bobbin)
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.
h Bobbin cover
Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.
i Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
a Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.
b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle
threader) (page 17)
c Presser foot holder
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
straight seams.
j Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
k Needle clamp screw
Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.
Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.
a Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.
b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew reverse stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. For details, refer to “Sewing reinforcement stitches” (page 29).
Buttons provided on some models
c Start/stop button (for models equipped with the
start/stop button)
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 28).
d Needle position button (for models equipped with
the needle position button)
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
e Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the
sewing speed controller)
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.
6
Operation panel
Flat bed attachment
The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and specify how the stitch will be sewn.
a LCD (liquid crystal display)
The number of the selected stitch ( to be used ( stitch width (mm) (
b Stitch selection keys
Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the number for the stitch that you wish to use. For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
c Stitch length adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch length. (Press the “–” side to reduce the stitch length; press the “+” side to increase the stitch length.)
d Stitch width adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch width. (Press the “–” side to reduce the stitch width; press the “+” side to increase the stitch width.)
2), the stitch length (mm) (3), and the
4) are displayed here.
1), the presser foot
The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment.
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
a
open it.
a Flat bed attachment b Storage compartment
Note
Put the accessories in the bag, and then store the bag inside the compartment. If the accessories are not in a bag, they may fall out, and be lost or damaged.
1
7
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————
K
PANTONE 285
Note
ACCESSORIES
The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks.
(For U.S.A. only)
Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on this machine model HS-2000.
The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
9. 10.
75/11 1 needle 90/14 1 needle 100/16 1 needle
No. Part Name
1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033 9 Bobbin (4) SA156 2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-031 10 Needle set XC8834-021 3 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 11 Twin needle 131096-121 4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 12 Cleaning brush X59476-021 5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-031 13 Screwdriver XC8349-021 6 Blind stitch foot “R” XC4051-031 14 Extra spool pin 130920-021 7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2137-001 8 Seam ripper X54243-051
U.S.A. / Canada
11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
Part Code
Others
No. Part Name
15 Foot controller
XC8816-021 (Other areas)
Part Code
U.S.A. / Canada
XD0501-021 (EU area)
Optional accessories
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Others
XA5539-151
No. Part Name
1 Walking Foot SA140
2 Quilting Foot SA129
1/4-Inch Quilting
3
Foot
U.S.A. / Canada
8
SA125
Part Code
F033N: XC2214-002
F005N: XC1948-002
F001N: XC1944-052
Others
No. Part Name
4 Quilting guide SA132
5 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001
U.S.A. / Canada
Part Code
Others
F016N: XC2215-002
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.
Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
Use only the power cord included with this machine.
Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire
or electric shock may result.
Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.
1
Power supply
Insert the plug into a wall outlet.
a
a Main power switch b Jack/socket connector
Set the main power switch to “I”.
b
X The sewing lamp comes on when the
machine is turned on.
To turn off the machine, set the main power
c
switch to “{”.
X The sewing lamp goes off when the
machine is turned off.
Note
If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
9
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
Foot controller
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on the rear side of the sewing machine.
a Foot controller jack/socket
CAUTION
When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.
Slower
Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button)
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
a
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed controller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.
Changing the needle stop position
Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
Faster
You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use.
CAUTION
Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.
Note
When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).
10
Hold down the “–” side of (stitch selection
b
key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.
After turning on the sewing machine, release
the “–” side of (stitch selection key).
X The needle stop position changes to the
raised position.
Memo
• Perform the same operation to change the needle stop position to the lowered position.
THREADING THE MACHINE
Winding the bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.
• For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 13.
1 Pulling it in as far as
possible.
a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin
CAUTION
Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size
1
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and
a
then put a spool of thread on this pin.
Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk.
b
CAUTION
If the spool of thread is not in the right place, the thread may tangle on the spool pin.
Pass the end of the thread through the hole on
c
the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.
This model Other models
Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft
d
and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin.
a Spring on the shaft b Groove of the bobbin
Turn on the sewing machine.
e
1
2
11
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
While holding the end of the thread, gently
f
press the foot controller or press (start/ stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to wind the thread around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine.
Note
If the sewing machine is to be operated using the foot controller, connect the foot controller before turning on the machine.
When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).
Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.
g
Press the foot controller or press (start/
i
stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to start.
When the bobbin seems full and begins
j
spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot controller or press (start/stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button).
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
k
to the left and remove the bobbin.
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
l
original position (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller).
Memo
When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
CAUTION
Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. If you do not cut the thread completely, and the bobbin is wound, when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
h
(to set the speed to fast). (For models equipped with the sewing speed controller.)
a Sewing speed controller
12
CAUTION
Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.
1
a Wound evenly b Wound poorly
2
For models equipped with the fast bobbin winding system
Follow steps 1 through 2 of the procedure in
a
“Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread around the pre-tension disk (page 11).
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft
b
so that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin.
a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
f
(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller).
a Sewing speed controller
Turn on the sewing machine.
g
Press the foot controller or press (start/
h
stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to start.
1
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
c
While holding the thread that wraps around the
d
pre-tension disk with your left hand, use your right hand to wind the free end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.
Pull the thread to the right and pass it through
e
the slit in the bobbin winder seat.
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
Note
If the sewing machine is to be operated using the foot controller, connect the foot controller before turning on the machine.
When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start sewing (only for models equipped with the start/stop button).
When the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take
i
your foot off the foot controller or press (start/stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button).
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
j
to the left and remove the bobbin.
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
k
original position (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller).
CAUTION
Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.
CAUTION
Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
1
a Wound evenly b Wound poorly
2
13
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
Slide the button and open the cover.
Memo
When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
b
a Cover b Slide button
Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in
c
the direction shown by the arrow.
12
Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
• For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 15.
CAUTION
Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen, breaking the needle and resulting in injury.
• Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine.
CAUTION
1
a Wound evenly b Wound poorly
The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model Other models
2
CAUTION
Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew, you could be injured.
Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin
d
down with your finger, and then pass the thread through the slit, as shown.
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension (page 29).
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
a
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button), and raise the presser foot lever.
14
1
a Tension-adjusting spring
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in
e
place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on the right side (see arrow b) until the cover clicks into place.
• Replace the cover so that the end of the thread comes out from the left side of the cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).
For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
a
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button), and raise the presser foot lever.
Slide the button and open the cover.
b
12
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension (page 29).
1
1
a Tension-adjusting spring
Memo
The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
a Cover b Slide button
Put the bobbin in, feed the end of the thread
c
through the slit, and then pull the thread to cut it.
• Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine.
CAUTION
Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
1
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in
d
place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on the right side (see arrow b) until the cover clicks into place.
Memo
You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want to draw up the bobbin thread before you start to sew, follow to the procedure in “Drawing up the lower thread” (page 19).
a Cutter
15
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
Upper threading
Set the upper thread and thread the needle.
• For details on the needle threader, see page 17.
a Spool pin b Thread guide c Mark on the handwheel
CAUTION
Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tangle and break the needle.
Raise the presser foot using the presser foot
a
lever.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
b
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up, or press (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.
or
a Presser foot lever
a Mark b Needle position button
• If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine can not be threaded. Be sure to turn the handwheel so that the mark on the wheel points up before threading the sewing machine.
16
Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and
c
then put a spool of thread on this pin.
CAUTION
If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.
Feed the upper thread as shown in the figure
d
on the previous page.
Make sure you guide the thread through the
e
thread take-up lever from right to left.
a Thread take-up lever
Put the thread behind the needle bar thread
f
guide above the needle.
The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand.
Note
If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread.
If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.
Using the needle threader (for models equipped with the needle threader)
CAUTION
The needle threader can only be used with home sewing machine needles size 75/11­100/16. Check the table on page 20 for the appropriate needle and thread combinations. If you are using transparent nylon mono­filament thread, you can only use needles in the range of 90/14-100/16.
You cannot use the needle threader if you are using decorative threads or special needles, such as the twin needle and wing needle. If you are using those types of threads or needles, thread the eye of the needle by hand. Make sure the main power switch is off when threading the needle by hand.
1
a Needle bar thread guide
Thread the needle from front to back and pull
g
out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread.
a 5 cm (2 inch)
Follow steps 1 through 6 of the procedure in
a
“Upper threading” to thread the machine to the needle bar thread guide.
Lower the presser foot lever.
b
While lowering the needle threader lever,
c
hook the thread onto the guide.
a Needle holder b Needle threader lever c Guide
17
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
Fully lower the needle threader lever.
d
X The end of the needle threader rotates
toward you and the hook passes through the eye of the needle.
Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.
e
Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread through
g
the needle toward the back of the sewing machine.
a 5 cm (2 inch)
Note
If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.
a Hook b Thread
While lightly holding the thread, release the
f
needle threader lever. The hook will pull the thread through the needle.
18
Drawing up the lower thread
Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.
a
a Upper thread
While holding the end of the upper thread,
b
raise the needle either by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up or by pressing (needle position button) (for models equipped with the needle position button) once or twice.
or
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads
d
and pull them toward the back of the machine under the presser foot.
a Upper thread b Lower thread
For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin
You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put the bobbin back in.
Pass the thread along the slit in the direction
a
of the arrow, and leave it there without cutting it.
1
a Mark b Needle position button
Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower
c
thread.
a Upper thread b Lower thread
• The bobbin cover should still be removed.
Draw up the lower thread as described in
b
steps 1 to 4.
Replace the bobbin cover.
c
19
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
REPLACING THE NEEDLE
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Fabric Type/Application
Medium weight
fabrics
Thin fabrics
Thick fabrics
Stretch fabrics
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
Thread
Type Size
Broadcloth Cotton thread
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Lawn Cotton thread
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Denim Cotton thread
Corduroy Synthetic thread
Tweed Silk thread
Jersey
Tricot
Thread for knits 50–60
Cotton thread
Silk thread 50
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
60–90
60–90
30 100/16
50
50–60
50–90
50 90/14–100/16
Size of Needle
75/11–90/14
65/9–75/11
90/14–100/16
Ball point needle
(gold colored)
75/11–90/14
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
Memo
The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.
Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.
A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased.
20
CAUTION
The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle” .
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
a
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)
or
1
1
2
a Flat side b Needle type marking
Correct needle
1
a Flat surface
Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.
a Mark b Needle position button
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
CAUTION
Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller or the start/ stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Lower the presser foot lever.
c
a Flat surface
1
a Presser foot lever
21
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
Note
CAUTION
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
d
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise to remove the needle.
The needle can be removed by simply loosening the needle clamp screw about one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is loosened too much, the needle clamp (which holds the needle) may fall off. Therefore, do not loosen the needle clamp screw too much.)
a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply strong force when loosening or
tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.
While holding the needle with your left hand,
f
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw by turning it clockwise.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.
With the flat side of the needle toward the
e
rear of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.
a Needle stopper
22
Sewing with a twin needle
We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch settings” (page 56).
CAUTION
Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 131096-121). Other needles could break, and damage the machine.
Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.
You can not use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand,
from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.
When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
When changing the sewing direction, be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.
1
Twin needle threading
Attach the twin needle.
a
Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single needle (page 21).
Attach the extra spool pin.
b
Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of the machine. Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin.
a First spool b Second spool
Use the thread from the first spool to thread
c
the machine to the needle bar thread guide.
The path for threading the machine to the needle bar thread guide is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). See page 17 for more details.
Thread the left needle from front to back.
d
Use the thread from the second spool to thread
e
the machine to the thread take-up lever.
The path for threading the machine to the thread take-up lever is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). See page 17 for more details.
Thread the right needle from front to back.
f
Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar thread guide.
a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar
thread guide.
b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle
bar thread guide.
c Needle bar thread guide
Note
Models equipped with a needle threader
You cannot use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand, from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.
CAUTION
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
23
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT
CAUTION
Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.
Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.
Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using other any presser feet may cause an accident or injury.
Press the black button at the back of the
d
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
a
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)
or
a Mark b Needle position button
If the sewing machine has been turned on,
b
turn it off.
presser foot holder to release the presser foot.
a Black button b Presser foot holder
Place a different presser foot below the holder
e
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the shank in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to be read.
CAUTION
Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller or the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
a Presser foot lever
24
a Presser foot holder b Shank c Pin
Note
The presser foot to be used with each stitch appears in the LCD. To select a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
f
presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the presser foot holder.
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is attached.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
g
presser foot is securely attached.
Removing the presser foot holder
Attaching the presser foot holder
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
a
left side of the presser bar.
a Presser foot holder b Presser bar
Hold the presser foot holder in place with
b
your right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
1
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.
Removing the presser foot holder
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 24).
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
b
holder screw.
a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw
a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw
Note
If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.
25
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
2 SEWING BASICS
SEWING
Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
Turn on the
1
machine.
2 Select the stitch.
Attach the presser
3
foot.
4 Start sewing.
Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Power supply” (page 9).
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 24).
Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the threads. For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 28).
26
Selecting stitching
Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired stitch. When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight stitch ( left needle position) is selected.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Press (stitch selection keys). The
b
number of the selected stitch is displayed.
Press the “+” or “–” side of to increase or
reduce the number by one. Pressing on the
right changes the digit on the right and pressing
on the left changes the digit on the left
.
[Example] Selecting stitch . Press the stitch selection keys to select stitch 04.
a
With on the right, select “4”, and with
on the left, select “0”.
Press the “+” or “–” side of (stitch
b
length adjustment key) to increase or reduce the stitch length.
a Stitch length adjustment key b Short c Long
Press the “+” or “–” side of (stitch width
c
adjustment key) to increase or reduce the stitch width.
2
X The stitch is selected.
Attach the presser foot indicated in the LCD.
c
a
a Presser foot type
• For details, refer to foot” (page 24)
“Replacing the presser
.
Memo
The presser foot to be used is indicated by
the letter (J, A, etc.) that appears above the stitch number.
If necessary, adjust the stitch length and
d
width.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, refer to the following example.
a Stitch width adjustment key b Narrow c Wide
Note
When the stitch length or stitch width is changed from the standard setting, around or disappears from the LCD. When the stitch length or stitch width is reset back to the standard setting, reappears around or in the LCD.
If the stitch width of the selected stitch cannot be adjusted, “--” appears to the right of in the LCD.
CAUTION
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.
27
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Lower the presser foot lever.
Starting to sew
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
a
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark
e
on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)
a Presser foot lever
On models equipped with a sewing speed
f
or
controller, slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed. Refer to “Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button)” (page 10).
a Mark b Needle position button
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
a Presser foot lever
Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass
c
the thread under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
a 5 cm (2 inch)
While holding the end of the thread and the
d
fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.
a Sewing speed controller
Slowly press down on the foot controller.
g
(With models equipped with (start/stop button), if the foot controller is not connected, press once.)
or
aStart/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
Take your foot off the foot controller, or press
h
i
(start/stop button) once (if the machine was started by pressing (start/stop button)) (for models equipped with the start/stop button).
X The machine stops sewing.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)
28
Raise the presser foot lever.
j
Thread tension
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
k
and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
a Thread cutter
Memo
When the foot controller is plugged in, (start/stop button) cannot be used to start sewing. When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needles stay up when sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the needle stop position” (page 10).
Sewing reinforcement stitches
When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching, pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
1
a Reverse stitching b Reinforcement stitching
2
The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread.
Memo
We recommend that you do a test sample on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.
Correct tension
Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric.
1
a Wrong side
2
b Surface c Upper thread d Lower thread
3
4
Upper tension is too tight
Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.
Note
If the bobbin thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to (page 14)
and rethread the bobbin thread.
1
2
3
5
4
Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension-control dial to a lower number.
“Lower threading”
a Wrong side b Surface c Upper thread d Lower thread e Loops appear on
surface of fabric
4
3
5
2
Memo
Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch settings” (page 56).
29
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Memo
When you finish sewing, remove the bobbin cover and then make sure that the thread is shown as below. If the thread is not shown as below, the thread is not inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case correctly. Reinsert the thread correctly. For details, refer to page 14, 15.
Upper tension is too loose
Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.
Note
If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to threading” (page 16) thread.
1
5
2
3
4
Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tension-control dial to a higher number.
4
5
“Upper
and rethread the upper
a Wrong side b Surface c Upper thread d Lower thread e Loops appear on
wrong side of fabric
3
30
USEFUL SEWING TIPS
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
c
Trial sewing
sewing.
After you select a stitch, the machine automatically sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing direction
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
a
sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle was raised, lower the needle either by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or by pressing (needle position button) once (for models equipped with the needle position button).
CAUTION
When using the twin needle, be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.
Sewing thick fabrics
If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.
2
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
b
fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
31
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level.
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener
CAUTION
Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is attached to the needle or the bobbin hook
a Sewing direction
When you encounter a seam that is too thick
a
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever.
race, it may cause malfunction.
If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may bend or break.
Press the black button on the left side of the
b
foot. Keep the button held in and lower the presser foot.
a Black button
Release the button. The foot will lock in place
c
level with the seam, allowing the fabric to feed.
• Once the trouble spot has been passed, the foot will return to its normal position.
Note
Before start sewing, baste together the fabric and the hook-and-loop fastener.
Make sure that the needle passes through the hook­and-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hook­and-loop fastener at a slow speed. If the needle does not pass through the hook-and­loop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for thick fabrics (
page 20
a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener
).
CAUTION
If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.
32
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
a Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.
2
a Basting
Using a free-arm style
Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas. To change your machine to the free-arm style, lift out the flat bed attachment.
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
a
release it.
a Flat bed attachment
33
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
3 UTILITY STITCHES
OVERCASTING STITCHES
You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials.
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Zigzag stitch J 04040404
3-point zig-
zag stitch
Overcasting
stitch
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
J 05050505
G 06060606
G 07070707
J 08080808
50 stitches
model
model
40 stitches
Application
Overcasting and attach­ing appliqués
Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darn­ing, etc.
Overcasting on thin or medium weight fabrics
Overcasting on thick fab­rics
Overcasting on stretch fabrics
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
0.0–7.0
(1/8)
(3/16)
(1/8)
(3/16)
(3/16)
5.0
3.5
5.0
5.0
(0–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
*Rev.: Reverse **Rfc.: Reinforcement ***Do not use reverse stitching.
Attach overcasting foot “G” or zigzag foot “J”.
a
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
d
presser foot guide.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
1.4
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
1
Twin Needle
Yes ( J )
Yes ( J )
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
Yes ( J )
Reverse/
Walking Foot
***
Yes Rev.
No Rfc.
No Rfc.
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
**
**
**
**
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
c
against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
a Guide
34
a Needle drop point
CAUTION
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
BASIC STITCHING
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
––
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
Stitch Name
Straight
Center
Triple
stretch stitch
Pattern
Presser Foot
70 stitches
Left J 00000000
J 01010101
J 02020202
Pattern No.
model
model
60 stitches
Application
model
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.
Attaching zippers, basic stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.
Attaching sleeves, sew­ing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and deco­rative stitching
*Rev.: Reverse **Rfc.: Reinforcement ***Do not use reverse stitching.
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
Basic stitching
f
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select a stitch.
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
d
beginning of the stitching.
Start sewing.
e
Changing the needle position
(page 28).
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be adjusted. Pressing the “+” side of the stitch width adjustment key moves the needle to the right; pressing the “–” side of the stitch width adjustment key moves the needle to the left.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 28).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to “Sewing reinforcement stitches” (page 29).
a Stitch width adjustment key b Left needle position c Right needle position
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Twin Needle
No Yes Rev.
Yes ( J )
No No Rfc.
Reverse/
Walking Foot
***
***
Yes Rev.
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
*
3
**
35
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
BLIND HEM STITCHING
You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.
Stitch Name
Blind hem
stitch
Pattern
Presser Foot
R 09090909
R 10101010
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
Reverse the skirt or pants.
a
Pattern No.
model
70 stitches
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Application
model
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics0(0)
Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics
a
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3 – –3
0
3 – –3
(0)
Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm
c
(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and then baste it .
b
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
2.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
Twin Needle
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
Reverse/
Walking Foot
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
*
a Right side of fabric b Bottom side
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
b
hem, and press.
1
1
2
2
2
< Seen from the side>
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
< Seen from the side>
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Edge of fabric d Basting stitching e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.
d
2
4
1
1
< Seen from the side>
a Wrong side of fabric b Edge of fabric c Basting d 5 mm (3/16 inch)
3
36
Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the
e
fabric with the wrong side facing up.
3
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
j
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
1
1
2
1
< Seen from the side>
a Wrong side of fabric b Basting c Edge of fabric
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
f
Select a stitch.
g
1
Remove the flat bed attachment and make
h
free-arm sewing possible.
• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to “Using a free-arm style” (page 33).
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
i
arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly, and then start sewing.
R
a Wrong side of fabric b Fold of hem c Guide
Adjust the stitch width until the needle
k
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
R
1
a Needle drop point
When you change the needle drop point, raise the needle, and then change the stitch width.
a
3
a Arm
a Stitch width
37
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
If the needle catches too much of the hem fold
If the needle catches too much of the hem fold, adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing the “+” side of the stitch width adjustment key.
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
If the needle does not catch the hem fold
If the needle does not catch the hem fold, adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing the “-” side of the stitch width adjustment key.
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
• For details on changing the stitch width, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
l
presser foot guide.
Remove the basting stitching and turn the
m
fabric right side up.
1
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
2
38
BUTTONHOLE SEWING
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.
Stitch Name
Buttonhole
stitch
Zigzag stitch (for quilting)
Pattern No.
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
A 29292925
A 30303026
A 31313127
A 32323228
A 33333329
A3434– –
A3535– –
J4040––
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Application
model
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics
Secured buttoholes for fabrics that have back­ings
Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics
Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics
Keyhole buttonholes for medium weight and thick fabrics
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics
Appliqué quilting, free­motion quilting, satin stitching, button sewing
Auto Manual Auto Manual
5.0
5.0
6.0
6.0
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
3.0-5.0
(1/8-3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8-3/16)
3.0–6.0
(1/8-15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8-15/64)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(15/64)
(15/64)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
1.0
(1/16)
1.5
(1/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.5
(1/32)
0.5
(1/32)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32-1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16-1/8)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.0-4.0
(0-3/16)
No No
No No
No No
No No
No No
No No
No No
No Yes Rfc.
*Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement **Rfc.: Reinforcement The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
Reverse/
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
**
3
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
a Reinforcement stitching
39
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
1
2
5
3
4
A
a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks on buttonhole foot e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Use chalk to mark the position and length of
a
the buttonhole on the fabric.
2
1
If the button does not fit in the button guide plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
2
3
a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole
(Diameter + thickness of button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.
1
2
a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
a Marks on fabric b Buttonhole sewing
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
b
foot “A”, and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
40
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
c
Select a stitch.
d
Position the fabric with the front end of the
e
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
A
in the presser foot.
1
2
A
2
a Mark on fabric b Red marks on buttonhole foot
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size.
a Do not reduce the gap.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
f
possible.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
h
fabric, and cut the thread.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
i
position.
Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole
j
stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut, and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole.
2
1
a Seam ripper b Pin
For keyhole buttonholes, use a commercial eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.
3
a Buttonhole lever b Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
g
your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the
machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
1
a Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.
CAUTION
When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting path, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended.
Memo
Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
41
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
Button sewing
gimp thread.
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
a
buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
Measure the distance between the holes in the
a
button to be attached.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
b
feed dog position lever, located at the rear of
**
*
the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine).
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
b
Select a stitch or .
c
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
d
gimp thread.
Lower the presser foot lever and the
e
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
f
thread to remove any slack.
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
g
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
h
gimp thread remaining at the top end of the buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
a Feed dog position lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Attach presser foot “M”.
c
a Button fitting foot “M”
1
42
Place a button between the presser foot and
d
the fabric.
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.
Select a stitch . (With models not provided
e
with stitch , select stitch .)
Turn the handwheel toward you
h
(counterclockwise) to check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.
3
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
f
the distance between the holes in the button.
Set the stitch length to the shortest setting by
g
pressing the stitch length adjustment key.
CAUTION
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
Start sewing.
i
• After sewing for about 10 seconds at low
speed, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) to sew reinforcement stitches.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
j
stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
When you are finished attaching the button,
k
slide the feed dog position lever to (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the dogs.
• Normally, the feed dog position lever is positioned at .
43
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
ZIPPER INSERTION
You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle. When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing the left side of the zipper, attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot.
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Straight
stitch
(center)
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
I 01010101
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Application
model
Attaching zippers, basic stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.
*Rev.: Reverse **Do not use reverse stitching.
1
2
3
a Zipper foot b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper
Select stitch .
a
Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the
b
left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the shank.
Fold the edge of the material 2 cm (3/4 inch)
c
and place the zipper under the folded section. Lower the needle into the notch located either on the left or right side of the zipper foot.
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
––
Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the
d
top on both sides. The needle should be
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes ( J )
Twin Needle
positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results.
To sew the opposite side of the zipper, release
e
the foot by pressing the button located at the back of the presser foot, fit the zipper foot on the other side of the zipper and continue sewing using the other side notch.
CAUTION
**
Reverse/
Walking Foot
**
Yes Rev.
*
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
CAUTION
Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the presser foot before you start sewing. If you choose a different stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and break the needle. You may also be injured.
44
Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper, the needle may break and you may be injured.
SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Stretch stitch J 03030303
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Application
Sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
1.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes ( J )
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Walking Foot
No Rfc.
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
3-point
zigzag stitch
J 05050505
Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darn­ing, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes ( J )
*Rfc.: Reinforcement Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
Stretch stitching
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Select stitch .
b
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
c
b
Select stitch .
c
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
d
stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
a
fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.
No Rfc.
*
3
a Elastic tape b Pin
2
1
CAUTION
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
45
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Zigzag stitch J 04040404
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Application
Overcasting and attach­ing appliqués
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
0.0–7.0
(1/8)
(0–1/4)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Yes ( J )
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Walking Foot
**
Yes Rfc.
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
Zigzag stitch (for quilting)
Appliqué
stitch
Appliqué
stitch
(for quilting)
Piecing straight
stitch
Joining stitch
J4040- -
J 11 11 11 11 Appliqué stitching
J4141- -
J4242- -
J3737- -
J3838- -
J 14141414
J 15151515
J 16161616
Appliqué quilting, free­motion quilting, satin stitching
Attaching appliqués and binding
Attaching appliqués and binding
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the right edge of the presser foot)
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the left edge of the presser foot)
Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching
Patchwork stitching, dec­orative stitching and sew­ing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot
Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching
3.5
(1/8)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5
(1/16)
1.5
(1/16)
5.5
(7/32)
1.5
(1/16)
4.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.2
(1/16)
1.2
(1/16)
1.6
(1/16)
1.6
(1/16)
1.2
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.2
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Yes Rfc.
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No Yes Rfc.
No Yes Rfc.
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Hand-look
quilting
Quilting stippling
J 39393531
J4343- -
Straight stitch quilting that looks hand-sewn
Quilting background stitching (stippling)
*Rfc.: Reinforcement **Do not use reverse stitching.
Appliqués
You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration.
Baste the cut design to the fabric.
a
46
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
7.0
1.0–7.0
(1/4)
(1/16–1/4)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch .
c
2.5
(3/32)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
*
*
Carefully sew around the edge of the design.
d
Cut away any fabric that is left outside the stitching.
e
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
a
fabric that you wish to piece together.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Remove the basting, if necessary.
f
Memo
Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching.
CAUTION
Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing, as the needle can break. You may also be injured.
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
a
place it over the lower piece.
Select stitch or
c
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
d
with the edge of the fabric.
For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .
.
1
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .
1
3
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
b
pattern spans both pieces.
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Memo
To change the width of the seam allowance (the needle position), adjust the stitch width. For details, refer to “Changing the needle position” (page 35).
47
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
Place one hand on each side of the presser
e
Quilting
foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while sewing.
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide.
Note
Only use the walking foot with straight or zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns. Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the walking foot.
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
a
Note
When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium.
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
b
holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 25).
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
c
onto the needle clamp screw, lower the presser foot lever, and then use the presser foot holder screw to attach the walking foot to the presser bar.
a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw c Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw securely. If the screw is loose, the needle may strike the presser foot and cause injury.
Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the front of the machine to check that the needle does not strike the presser foot. If the needle strikes the presser foot, injury may result.
Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced.
Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at
a
the rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder.
Walking foot
Presser foot holder
Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt
b
guide aligns with the seam that has already been sewn.
Select stitch , or .
d
48
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
a
holder.
Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the
d
rear of the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine).
3
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 25).
Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side
b
of the presser bar.
The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp screw.
a Pin on quilting foot b Presser foot holder screw c Needle clamp screw
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
c
hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
a Feed dog position lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
e
stitch.
Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, then
f
move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of sewing.
a Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.
a Pattern
After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog
g
position lever to (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the dogs.
• Normally, the feed dog position lever is positioned at .
49
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Triple
stretch stitch
Bar tack
stitch
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
J 02020202
A 36363430
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Application
model
Attaching sleeves, sew­ing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and deco­rative stitching
Reinforcing openings and areas where the seam easily comes loose
(1/16)
*Rfc.: Reinforcement **Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement
Triple stretch stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes and inseams.
Bar tack stitching
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings. As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Select stitch .
b
Start sewing.
c
pocket corners is described below.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 28).
a
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
0.0-7.0
(0)
(0-1/4)
2.0
1.0-3.0
(1/16-1/8)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
2.5
(3/32)
0.4
(1/64)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
0.3-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
Twin Needle
No No Rfc.
No No
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
Reverse/
Auto
Rfc.
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
**
Walking Foot
50
1
2
3
a Presser foot scale b Length of bar tack c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn.
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Position the fabric so that the opening of the
d
pocket faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.
1
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
e
possible.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
a 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size.
a Do not reduce the gap.
a Buttonhole lever b Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
f
your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the
machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
g
fabric, and cut the thread.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
h
position.
Memo
If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
3
51
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
DECORATIVE STITCHING
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Stitch Name
Fagoting
stitch
Pattern No.
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
J 17171717
J 18181818
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Application
model
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching
Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching
Auto Manual Auto Manual
5.0
5.0
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
(3/16)
(3/16)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes ( J )
Yes ( J )
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Walking Foot
No Rfc.
No Rfc.
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
*
Joining stitch
Shell tuck
stitch
Satin scallop
stitch
Decorative
stitch
J 14141414
J 15151515
J 16161616
J 12 12 12 12 Sell tuck stitching
N 13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching
J 19 19 19 19 Decorative stitching
J 20 20 20 20 Decorative stitching
J 21 21 21 – Decorative stitching
22 22 22 21
N
N 23232322
N 24242423
Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching
Patchwork stitching, deco­rative stitching and sewing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot
Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching
Decorative stitching and elastic-attaching
Lace sewing, decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.
4.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
5.5
(7/32)
5.0
(3/16)
3.5
(1/8)
6.0
(15/64)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/64-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.2
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5
(1/32)
3.0
(1/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
3.0
(1/8)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
0.1-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
2.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
1.6-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
No No Rfc.
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
N 252525 –
N 26262624
N 272727 –
N 282828 –
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
52
Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
4.0
(3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.0
(1/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
*
*
*
*
Fagoting
Scallop stitching
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
a
along their seams. Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
b
about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
3
1
2
a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer b Basting stitching c 4 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select stitch or .
d
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
e
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Sew with the center of the presser foot
f
aligned along the center of the two pieces of fabric.
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
a
Select stitch .
b
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making
c
sure not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
• For better results, apply spray starch onto the fabric and press with a hot iron before it is sewn.
Trim along the stitches.
d
3
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
g
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
53
UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
Smocking
g
The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the
b
stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen the thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27) and “Thread tension” (page 29).
Shell tuck stitching
The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm
c
(3/8 inch).
1
a 1 cm (3/8 inch)
• Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or cut the thread.
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
d
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
Select stitch or .
e
Fold the fabric along the bias.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch , and then increase the thread
c
tension.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Sew while making sure that the needle drops
d
slightly off the edge of the fabric.
1
Stitch between the straight stitches.
f
54
a Needle drop point
Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks
e
down to one side.
Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
b
of fabric, and then open up the seam allowances.
2
Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics.
CAUTION
The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back. For details, refer to “Upper threading” (page 16).
Insert the wing needle.
a
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on inserting a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 21).
3
1
1
3
a Wrong side of fabric b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance c Straight stitch
Select stitch , or .
c
Turn the fabric over so that the right side
d
faces up, and then sew over the seam with the center of the presser foot aligned with the seam.
a Right side of fabric
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
b
Select stitch , , , , or .
c
CAUTION
Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Start sewing.
d
55
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
4 APPENDIX
STITCH SETTINGS
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.
CAUTION
Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
Utility stitches
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Straight
Center
Triple
stretch stitch
Stretch stitch J 03030303
Zigzag stitch J 04040404
3-point zig-
zag stitch
Overcasting
stitch
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
Left J 00000000
J 01010101
J 02020202
J 05050505
G 06060606
G 07070707
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Application
Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.
Attaching zippers, basic stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.
Attaching sleeves, sew­ing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and deco­rative stitching
Sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching
Overcasting and attach­ing appliqués
Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darn­ing, etc.
Overcasting on thin or medium weight fabrics
Overcasting on thick fab­rics
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
––
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
1.0
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
(1/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
1.4
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Twin Needle
No Yes Rev.
Yes ( J )
No No Rfc.
****
Yes ( J )
****
Yes ( J )
****
Yes ( J )
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
Reverse/
Walking Foot
***
***
Yes Rev.
No Rfc.
***
Yes Rev.
No Rfc.
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
*
**
**
*
**
**
**
J 08080808
Overcasting on stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
*Rev.: Reverse **Rfc.: Reinforcement ***Do not use reverse stitching. ****Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
56
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
Yes ( J )
****
No Rfc.
**
Stitch Name
Blind hem
stitch
Pattern No.
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
R 09090909
R 10101010
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Application
model
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics0(0)
Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3 – –3
0
3 – –3
(0)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
2.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
Twin Needle
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
Reverse/
Walking Foot
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
*
Appliqué
stitch
Shell tuck
stitch
Satin scallop
stitch
Joining stitch
Fagoting
stitch
J 11 11 11 11 Appliqué stitching
J 12 12 12 12 Shell tuck stitching
N 13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching
J 14141414
J 15151515
J 16161616
J 17171717
J 18181818
J 19 19 19 19 Decorative stitching
J 20 20 20 20 Decorative stitching
Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching
Patchwork stitching, dec­orative stitching and sew­ing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot
Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching
Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching
Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching
3.5
(1/8)
4.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5
(1/32)
1.2
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.2
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
3.0
(1/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.1-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
2.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
No No Rfc.
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
*
*
*
*
4
*
*
*
*
*
*
5.5
Decorative
stitch
J 21 21 21 – Decorative stitching
22 22 22 21
N
N 23232322
N 24242423
N 252525 –
Decorative stitching and elastic-attaching
Lace sewing, decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.
(7/32)
(3/16)
(15/64)
(3/16)
5.0
3.5
(1/8)
6.0
5.0
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/64-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
*Rfc.: Reinforcement **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
1.6
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
3.0
(1/8)
3.5
(1/8)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
1.6-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
**
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
*
*
*
*
*
57
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Name
Decorative
stitch
Buttonhole
stitch
Pattern No.
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
N 26262624
N 272727 –
N 282828 –
A 29292925
A 30303026
A 31313127
A 32323228
A 33333329
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Application
model
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heir­loom stitching, etc.
Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics
Secured buttonholes for fabrics that have back­ings
Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics
Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics
Auto Manual Auto Manual
5.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
6.0
6.0
7.0
(1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
3.0-5.0
(1/8-3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8-3/16)
3.0–6.0
(1/8-15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8-15/64)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(15/64)
(15/64)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
4.0
(3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.0
(1/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
1.0
(1/16)
1.5
(1/16)
0.5
(1/32)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
0.2-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.2–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32-1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16-1/8)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
Twin Needle
***
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
***
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
***
Yes
No Rfc.
( J )
No No
No No
No No
No No
No No
Reverse/
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
*
*
**
**
**
**
**
Walking Foot
Keyhole buttonholes for medium weight and thick fabrics
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics
Reinforcing openings and areas where the seam easily comes loose
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the right edge of the presser foot)
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the left edge of the presser foot)
Straight stitch quilting that looks hand-sewn
Appliqué quilting, free­motion quilting, satin stitching, button sewing
(1/4)
(1/4)
(1/16)
(7/32)
(1/16)
(1/8)
Bar tack
stitch
Piecing straight
stitch
Hand-look
quilting
Zigzag stitch (for quilting)
A3434– –
A3535– –
A 36363430
J3737- -
J3838- -
J 39393531
J4040- -
*Rfc.: Reinforcement **Auto Rfc.: AutomaticReinforcement ***Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
7.0
7.0
2.0
5.5
1.5
0.0 (0)
3.5
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
1.0–3.0
(1/16-1/8)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.5
(1/32)
0.4
(1/64)
1.6
(1/16)
1.6
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.4
(1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
No No
No No
No No
No Yes Rfc.
No Yes Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No Yes Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
Auto
Rfc.
**
**
**
*
*
*
*
58
Stitch Name
Appliqué
stitch
(for quilting)
Pattern No.
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
70 stitches
60 stitches
J4141- -
J4242- -
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Application
model
model
50 stitches
40 stitches
Attaching appliqués and binding
Attaching appliqués and binding
Auto Manual Auto Manual
1.5
1.5
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
(1/16)
(1/16)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
1.2
(1/16)
1.2
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Twin Needle
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
Reverse/
Walking Foot
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
*
Quilting stippling
Decorative
stitch
J4343- -
N 44 44 36 32 For decoration, etc.
N 45 45 37 33 For decoration, etc.
N 46 46 38 - For decoration, etc.
N 47 - - - For decoration, etc.
N 48 47 39 - For decoration, etc.
N 49 48 40 - For decoration, etc.
N 50 - - - For decoration, etc.
N 51 49 41 34 For decoration, etc.
N 52 - - - For decoration, etc.
Quilting background stitching (stippling)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.6
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
*
*
*
*
4
*
*
*
*
*
*
N 53 - - - For decoration, etc.
N 54 - - - For decoration, etc.
N 55 50 - - For decoration, etc.
N 56 51 - - For decoration, etc.
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
5.0
(3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6
(1/16)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
*
*
*
*
59
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Name
Satin
stitches
Pattern No.
Pattern
Presser Foot
model
model
70 stitches
N 57 52 42 - For decoration, etc.
N 58 - - - For decoration, etc.
N 59 53 43 35 For decoration, etc.
N 60 54 44 36 For decoration, etc.
N 61 55 45 - For decoration, etc.
N 62 56 46 37 For decoration, etc.
N 63 - - - For decoration, etc.
N 64 - - - For decoration, etc.
model
60 stitches
50 stitches
40 stitches
Application
model
Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
7.0
2.5–7.0
(1/4)
(3/32–1/4)
7.0
2.5–7.0
(1/4)
(3/32–1/4)
7.0
2.5–7.0
(1/4)
(3/32–1/4)
7.0
2.5–7.0
(1/4)
(3/32–1/4)
7.0
2.5–7.0
(1/4)
(3/32–1/4)
7.0
2.5–7.0
(1/4)
(3/32–1/4)
7.0
2.5–7.0
(1/4)
(3/32–1/4)
7.0
2.5–7.0
(1/4)
(3/32–1/4)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes ( J )
Yes ( J )
Yes ( J )
Yes ( J )
Yes ( J )
Yes ( J )
Yes
( J )
Yes
( J )
Twin Needle
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
Reverse/
Walking Foot
No Rfc.
No Rfc.
No Rfc.
No Rfc.
No Rfc.
No Rfc.
No Rfc.
No Rfc.
Stitching
Reinforcement
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
7.0
(1/4)
6.0
6.0
6.0
6.0
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
Cross-
stitches
N 65 - - - For decoration, etc.
N 66 - - - For decoration, etc.
N 67 57 47 38 For decoration, etc.
N 68 58 48 - For decoration, etc.
N 69 59 49 39 For decoration, etc.
(15/64)
(15/64)
(15/64)
(15/64)
*Rfc.: Reinforcement **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
1.6
(1/16)
1.4
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.4
(1/16)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
No No Rfc.
*
*
*
*
*
60
MAINTENANCE
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Cleaning the machine surface
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.
CAUTION
Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur.
Cleaning the bobbin case
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the bobbin case; therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.
CAUTION
Make sure you unplug the machine before you clean it. Otherwise, you may get an electric shock or be injured.
Switch the machine off and unplug it.
a
Raise the needle and the presser foot.
b
Loosen the presser-foot screw and the needle
c
clamp screw to remove the presser-foot holder and the needle.
4
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,
d
and then slide it toward you to remove the needle plate cover.
a Needle plate cover
61
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Remove the bobbin case.
e
Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
1
a Bobbin case
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
f
remove any dust from the race and its surrounding area.
a Cleaning brush b Race
• Do not put oil on the bobbin case.
Put the tabs on the needle plate cover into the
h
needle plate, and then slide the cover back on.
CAUTION
Never use a bobbin case that is scratched, otherwise the upper thread may become tangled, the needle may break or sewing performance may suffer. For a new bobbin case (part code: XC3152-021), contact your nearest authorized service center.
Make sure that you fit the bobbin case properly, otherwise the needle may break.
Insert the bobbin case so that the projection
g
on the bobbin case aligns with the spring.
1
2
1
a Projection b Spring
2
62
TROUBLESHOOTING
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at [http://solutions.brother.com]. If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
The machine is not plugged in. Plug the machine in. page 9
The sewing machine does not work.
The needle breaks.
The upper thread breaks.
The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch. page 9
The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the right.
You have not used the foot control­ler properly.
The needle is not fitted properly. Fit the needle properly. page 21
The needle clamp screw is loose.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 21
You have not used the right combi­nation of fabric, thread and needle.
The presser foot you are using is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you want to sew.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 29
You are pulling the fabric too much. Lightly guide the fabric.
The area around the hole in the nee­dle plate is scratched.
The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched.
The bobbin case is scratched.
You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.
You have not threaded the upper thread properly. (for example, you have not fitted the spool properly, or the thread has come out of the guide above the needle.)
There are knots or tangles in the thread.
The needle is not appropriate for the thread you are using.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 29
The thread is tangled, for example, in the bobbin case.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 21
Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left.
Use the foot controller properly. page 10
Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw.
Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric.
Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew.
Replace the needle plate. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.
Replace the presser foot. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.
Replace the bobbin case. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.
Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.
Correct the upper threading. page 16
Remove any knots or tangles.
Choose a needle that is appropriate for the type of stitch.
Remove the tangle thread. If the thread is tangled in the bobbin case, clean the bobbin case.
page 12, 13
page 22
page 20
page 56
page 11
page 20
page 61
4
63
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
The upper thread breaks.
The lower thread is tangled or breaks.
You have not inserted the needle properly.
The area around the hole in the nee­dle plate is scratched.
The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched.
The bobbin case is scratched, or has a burr on it.
You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.
You have not wound the bobbin thread properly.
The bobbin is scratched or does not turn smoothly.
The thread is tangled.
You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.
Insert the needle properly. page 21
Replace the needle plate. Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorised service center.
Replace the presser foot. Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorised service center.
Replace the bobbin case. Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorised service center.
Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has
page 11
been designed for this machine.
Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 11
Replace the bobbin.
Remove the tangled thread and clean the bobbin case.
page 61
Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has
page 11
been designed for this machine.
Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 14, 15
The thread is tangled on the wrong side of
The upper thread was not threaded correctly.
Correct the upper threading. page 16
the fabric.
The thread ten­sion is incorrect.
You have not threaded the upper thread properly.
You have not wound the bobbin thread properly.
You have not threaded the right combination of thread and needle for the fabric you are using.
You have not attached the presser­foot holder properly.
The thread tension is incorrect.
You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.
Correct the upper threading. page 16
Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 11
Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric.
Attach the presser-foot holder prop­erly.
Adjust the tension of the upper thread.
page 20
page 25
page 29
Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has
page 11
been designed for this machine.
Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 14, 15
The upper thread is too tight.
The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 14
64
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
The fabric is wrinkled.
Stitches are skipped.
There is a high­pitched noise while sewing.
The needle threader can not be used.
The stitch is not sewn correctly.
The fabric does not feed.
The sewing light bulb does not come on.
You have not threaded the upper thread properly or fitted the bobbin properly.
You have not fitted the spool properly. Fit the spool properly.
You have not used the right combina­tion of fabric, thread and needle.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 21
If you are sewing thin fabric, the stitch is too thick.
The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 29
You have not threaded the upper thread properly.
You have not used the right combi­nation of fabric, thread and needle.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
You have not inserted the needle properly.
Dust has accumulated under the needle plate or in the bobbin case.
Dust has built up in the feed dogs or in the bobbin case.
You have not threaded the upper thread properly.
The bobbin case is scratched.
You have not used bobbin that has been designed for this machine.
You have not moved the needle holder to its highest position.
You have not inserted the needle properly.
The presser foot that you are using is not correct for the type of stitch.
The thread tension is incorrect.
The thread is tangled, for example, in the bobbin case.
The feed dogs are lowered.
The stitch is too fine. Lengthen the stitch length. page 27
You have not used the right combi­nation of fabric, thread and needle.
The thread is tangled, for example, in the bobbin case.
The sewing lamp is damaged.
Thread the upper thread and wind the bobbin thread properly.
Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric.
Sew with stabiliser material under the fabric.
Correct the upper threading. page 16
Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric.
Insert the needle properly.
Remove the needle plate cover and clean the plate and the bobbin case.
Clean the bobbin case. page 61
Correct the upper threading. page 16
Replace the bobbin case. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.
Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.
Raise the needle either by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up or by pressing (needle position button) once or twice.
Insert the needle properly. page 21
Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew.
Adjust the tension of the upper thread.
Remove the tangle thread. If the thread is tangled in the bobbin case, clean the bobbin case.
Slide the feed dog position lever to .
Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric.
Remove the tangle thread. If the thread is tangled in the bobbin case, clean the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.
page 14, 15, 16
page 42, 49
page 20
page 33
page 20
page 21
page 61
4
page 11
page 16
page 56
page 29
page 61
page 20
page 61
65
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
ERROR MESSAGES
If an operation is performed incorrectly before the sewing machine is set up, an error message appears on the operation panel. Follow the instructions indicated in the table. If you press the stitch selection key or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the message disappears.
Error Message Probable Cause Solution
The foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop but­ton was pressed if the foot controller is not con­nected) and the reverse/reinforcement stitch button was pressed while the presser foot is raised.
A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop button was pressed if the foot controller is not connected) while the buttonhole lever is low­ered.
The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop but­ton was pressed if the foot controller is not con­nected) while the buttonhole lever is raised.
The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or needle position button was pressed while the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right.
The start/stop button was pressed while the foot con­troller was connected.
The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.
Lower the presser foot lever before continuing the opera­tion.
Raise the buttonhole lever before continuing the opera­tion.
Lower the buttonhole lever before continuing the opera­tion.
Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left before con­tinuing the operation.
Disconnect the foot control­ler, and then press the start/ stop button. Otherwise, operate the machine by using the foot controller.
Remove the tangled thread before continuing the opera­tion.
Note
If error message “F1” through “F8” appears in the LCD while the sewing machine is being used, the machine may be malfunctioning. Contact your nearest authorized service center.
Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep)
Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep. If a non-functioning key is pressed or an incorrect operation is performed you will hear two or four beeps (only for models equipped with the operation beep).
If a key is pressed (correct operation)
One beep sounds.
If an incorrect operation is performed or a non-functioning key is pressed
Two or four beeps sound.
If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled
The sewing machine beeps for four seconds and the machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and correct it before continuing to sew.
66
i
INDEX
Numerics
3-point zigzag stitch ....................................................... 34
A
accessories ....................................................................... 8
appliqués .......................................................................46
B
bar tack .......................................................................... 50
basic stitching ................................................................35
blind hem stitching......................................................... 36
bobbin ...........................................................................14
bobbin case............................................................. 14
bobbin cover.............................................................6
bobbin winder.................................................. 11
button sewing................................................................. 42
buttonhole foot............................................................... 40
buttonhole lever ................................................. 6
buttonhole sewing..........................................................39
, 61 , 14
, 63, 66
, 41, 51
C
crazy quilt stitching ........................................................ 47
D
Darning...................................................................34, 45
E
elastic tape ..................................................................... 45
error messages................................................................ 66
extra spool pin ...............................................................23
eyelet punch ..................................................................41
M
main parts ........................................................................5
main power switch...........................................................9
monogramming.......................................................53
, 55
N
needle ............................................................................ 20
needle bar thread guide.................................................... 6
needle clamp screw ..................................................6
needle plate .....................................................................6
needle plate cover..........................................................61
needle position............................................................... 35
needle position button...................................................... 6
needle threader ..............................................................17
, 22
O
openings ........................................................................50
operation beep............................................................... 66
operation buttons .............................................................6
operation panel................................................................ 7
optional accessories .........................................................8
overcasting stitches ........................................................34
P
patchwork stitching ........................................................ 47
piecing........................................................................... 47
pocket corners................................................................ 50
presser foot................................................................ 6
presser foot holder..................................................... 6
presser foot lever ....................................................... 6
pre-tension disk..............................................................11
, 24 , 25 , 16
4
F
fagoting .......................................................................... 53
fast bobbin winding........................................................ 13
feed dog position lever ................................................... 49
feed dogs...................................................................6
flat bed attachment.................................................... 7
foot controller ...........................................................8
free-arm style .................................................................33
free-motion quilting........................................................ 49
, 49 , 33 , 28
H
handwheel .......................................................................5
heirloom stitching ..........................................................55
hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................32
J
joining............................................................................ 55
joining stitch ...........................................................46
, 52
Q
quick-set bobbin .......................................................6, 15
quilting........................................................................... 48
quilting foot.................................................................... 49
quilting guide ................................................................. 48
R
reinforcement stitching...................................................50
reverse/reinforcement stitch button................................... 6
S
scallop stitching .............................................................53
seam ripper ....................................................................41
sewing machine needles ................................................20
sewing speed controller....................................................6
sleeve holes.................................................................... 50
smocking........................................................................ 54
spool pin................................................................. 11
start/stop button......................................................... 6
stitch length.................................................................... 27
stitch selection key ........................................................... 7
stitch settings..................................................................56
stitch width ....................................................................27
straight stitch.................................................................. 35
stretch fabrics................................................................. 33
, 16 , 28
67
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
T
thick fabrics.................................................................... 31
thin fabrics .....................................................................33
thread cutter...................................................................29
thread guide ................................................................... 16
thread tension ................................................................29
trial sewing..................................................................... 31
triple stretch stitch .......................................................... 35
troubleshooting ..............................................................63
twin needle ....................................................................22
U
upper tension-control dial ..............................................29
upper threading..............................................................16
W
walking foot ...................................................................48
wing needle ...................................................................55
Z
zigzag stitch .....................................................31, 34, 46
zipper foot...................................................................... 44
zipper Insertion ..............................................................44
68
English
885-S35/S38
XE3669-101
Printed in China
a
Loading...