Brother Isodore„, Innov-í, s 5000, 882-S96 Operation Manual

Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com when you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

Computerized Sewing and Embroidery Machine

Operation Manual

Product Code:882-S96

Getting Ready

Sewing Basics

Utility Stitches

Character/

Decorative Stitches

Embroidery

Embroidery Edit

My Custom Stitch

Appendix

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following: Read all instructions before using.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “ ” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch the machine to the symbol “ ” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision.

17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.

18. If the light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

19. Hold the foot controller plug when rewinding into cord reel. Do not allow the plug to whip when rewinding.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA

AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

iii

Federal Communications Commission (FCC)

Declaration of Conformity (For USA Only)

complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.

This equipment has been tested and found to comply with the limits for a Class B digital device, pursuant to Part 15 of the FCC Rules. These limits are designed to provide reasonable protection against harmful interference in a residential installation. This equipment generates, uses, and can radiate radio frequency energy and, if not installed and used in accordance with the instructions, may cause harmful interference to radio communications. However, there is no guarantee that interference will not occur in a particular installation. If this equipment does cause harmful interference to radio or television reception, which can be determined by turning the equipment off and on, the user is encouraged to try to correct the interference by one or more of the following measures:

• Reorient or relocate the receiving antenna

• Increase the separation between the equipment and receiver.

• Connect the equipment into an outlet on a circuit different from that to which the receiver is connected.

• Consult the dealer or an experienced radio/TV technician for help.

• The enclosed interface cable should be used in order to ensure compliance with the limits for a Class B digital device.

• Changes or modifications not expressly approved by Brother Industries, Ltd. could void the user's authority to operate the equipment.

Responsible Party: Brother International Corporation

100 Somerset Corporate Boulevard Bridgewater, NJ 08807-0911 USA TEL : (908) 704-1700

declares that the product

Product Name: Model Number:

Brother Sewing Machine NV5000

CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR

MACHINE

Your machine is the most advanced computerized household embroidery and sewing machine. To fully enjoy all the features incorporated, we suggest that you study the manual.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE

For safe operation

1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread take-up, needle, or other moving parts.

2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:

• Operation is completed

• Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts

• A power failure occurs during use

• Maintaining the machine

• Leaving the machine unattended.

3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.

4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.

For a longer service life

1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

3. Do not drop or hit the machine.

4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

For repair or adjustment

In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com

The contents of this manual, specifications of this product and also design of display are subject to change without notice.

WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH THIS MACHINE

Check operations and view advice on the large LCD (liquid crystal display).

SPECIAL FEATURES

Prepare the bobbin thread with one touch.

The automatic thread tension makes trial sewing unnecessary.

Automatic threading makes threading quick and easy.

Utility Stitches

Character/Decorative Stitches

Chapter 1

Chapter 3

Chapter 4

Chapter 2

To learn the operation of the principal parts and the screens

Pre-programmed with more than 100 frequently used stitches

To learn how to prepare for sewing and basic sewing operations

The variety of stitches widen your creativity

Getting Ready Sewing Basics

Embroidery

Chapter 5

Maximum 30 cm x 18 cm (approx. 12 x 7 inches) for large embroidery designs

Embroidery Edit

Chapter 6

Designs can be combined, rotated or enlarged

My Custom Stitch

Chapter 7

Create original decorative stitches

Appendix

Chapter 8

Caring for your machine and dealing with errors and malfunctions

Page 7 Page 37

Page 47 Page 97

Page 125 Page 175

Page 199 Page 209

vii

HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL

Chapter 1 and Chapter 2 explain your sewing machine’s basic operation procedures for someone who is using the sewing machine for the first time. If you want to sew utility stitches or character/ decorative stitches, read Chapter 1 and Chapter 2, then go on to Chapter 3 (Utility Stitches) or Chapter 4 (Character/ Decorative Stitches). When you are ready to begin using the embroidery function after reading Chapter 1 and Chapter 2, proceed to Chapter 5 (Embroidery). Once you understand the steps explained in Chapter 5, go on to Chapter 6 (Embroidery Edit) for an explanation about the convenient embroidery edit functions. In the screens that appear in the step-by-step directions the parts that are used for the operation are shown

in . Compare the screen in the directions with the actual screen, and carry out the operation. If, while using the machine, you experience something you do not understand, or there is a function you

would like to know more about, refer to the index at the back of the operation manual in conjunction with the table of contents to find the section of the manual you should refer to.

To sew utility stitches To sew character or decorative stitches

To do machine embroidery

Chapter 1 Chapter 2

Chapter 3

Chapter 4

Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 5 Chapter 6

Contents

viii

CONTENTS

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ..................i

WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH THIS MACHINE..... vi

HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL ............................vii

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR

FUNCTIONS .........................................................1

Machine ................................................................................. 1

Needle and Presser Foot Section .............................................2

Embroidery Unit ..................................................................... 2

Operation Buttons................................................................... 3

Included Accessories ..............................................................3

Options...................................................................................6

Chapter 1 Getting Ready 7

TURNING THE MACHINE ON/OFF .....................8

LCD SCREEN .........................................................9

Using the Machine Setting Mode Key .................................. 12

Using the Machine Operation Mode Key .............................. 17

Using the Pattern Explanation Key ........................................18

LOWER THREADING ..........................................19

Winding the Bobbin..............................................................19

Setting the Bobbin................................................................. 22

Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread............................................... 23

UPPER THREADING ...........................................25

Threading Using the “Automatic Threading” Button.............. 25

Threading Manually.............................................................. 27

Using the Twin Needle Mode ..............................................29

Using Threads that Unwind Quickly ..................................... 31

CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT .......................32

Removing the Presser Foot .................................................... 32

Attaching the Presser Foot..................................................... 32

Attaching the Walking Foot...................................................33

CHANGING THE NEEDLE...................................34

Chapter 2 Sewing Basics 37

SEWING ..............................................................38

Sewing a Stitch .....................................................................38

Sewing Reinforcement Stitches ............................................ 40

Sewing Curves ...................................................................... 40

Changing Sewing Direction .................................................40

Sewing Heavyweight Fabrics ............................................... 41

Sewing Lightweight Fabrics ..................................................41

STITCH SETTINGS ..............................................42

Setting the Stitch Width......................................................... 42

Setting the Stitch Length .......................................................42

Setting the Thread Tension ................................................... 43

USEFUL FUNCTIONS..........................................44

Automatic Reinforcement Stitching ......................................44

Automatic Thread Cutting ..................................................... 45

Locking the Screen ............................................................... 46

Chapter 3 Utility Stitches 47

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES ..........................48

Selecting a Stitch................................................................... 48

Saving Your Stitch Settings ................................................... 50

Using the Sewing Type Selection Key ..................................51

SEWING THE STITCHES .....................................53

Straight Stitches.....................................................................53

Dart Seam............................................................................. 57

Gathering..............................................................................57

Flat Fell Seam ....................................................................... 58

Pintuck ................................................................................. 59

Zigzag Stitches ..................................................................... 60

Elastic Zigzag Stitches .......................................................... 62

Overcasting ......................................................................... 63

Quilting ............................................................................... 67

Blind Hem Stitches ..............................................................72

Appliqué ..............................................................................73

Shelltuck Stitches .................................................................74

Scallop Stitches ....................................................................75

Top Stitching .........................................................................75

Smocking Stitches ................................................................76

Fagoting ...............................................................................76

Tape or Elastic Attaching ......................................................77

Heirloom ..............................................................................78

One-step Buttonholes ...........................................................80

Four-step Buttonholes............................................................84

Bar Tacks .............................................................................88

Button Sewing ......................................................................90

Eyelet ...................................................................................92

Multi-directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and Zigzag Stitch) ..93

Zipper Insertion ....................................................................94

Chapter 4 Character/Decorative Stitches 97

SELECTING STITCH PATTERNS.......................... 98

Selecting Decorative Stitch Patterns/7mm Decorative Stitch Patterns/Satin Stitch Patterns/7mm Satin Stitch Patterns/Cross

Stitch/Utility Decorative Stitch Patterns ...............................100

Alphabet Characters ...........................................................100

SEWING STITCH PATTERNS ........................... 102

Sewing Attractive Finishes ..................................................102

Basic Sewing.......................................................................102

Making Adjustments ...........................................................103

EDITING STITCH PATTERNS ........................... 105

Changing the Size ...............................................................106

Changing the Length (for 7mm Satin Stitch Patterns Only) ..107

Creating a Vertical Mirror Image ........................................107

Creating a Horizontal Mirror Image ....................................107

Sewing a Pattern Continuously ...........................................107

Changing Thread Density

(for Satin Stitch Patterns Only) ............................................108

Checking the Image.............................................................108

COMBINING STITCH PATTERNS .................... 110

Before Combining ...............................................................110

Combining Various Stitch Patterns ......................................110

Combining Large and Small Stitch Patterns .........................112

Combining Horizontal Mirror Image Stitch Patterns ............112

Combining Stitch Patterns of Different Length ..................... 113

Making Step Stitch Patterns

(for 7mm Satin Stitch Patterns Only) ...................................114

USING THE MEMORY FUNCTION .................. 116

Stitch Data Precautions .......................................................116

Saving Stitch Patterns in the Machine’s Memory .................118

Saving Stitch Patterns to USB Media

(Commercially Available) ....................................................120

Saving Stitch Patterns in the Computer ................................121

Retrieving Stitch Patterns from the Machine’s Memory........122

Recalling from USB Media ..................................................123

Recalling from the Computer...............................................124

Chapter 5 Embroidery 125

BEFORE EMBROIDERING................................. 126

Embroidery Step by Step .....................................................126

Attaching Embroidery Foot “W” .........................................127

Attaching the Embroidery Unit ...........................................128

SELECTING PATTERNS .................................... 130

Selecting Embroidery Patterns/Heirloom Patterns/Border

Patterns/Cross stitch Patterns/Floral alphabet Patterns ..........132

Selecting Alphabet Character Patterns .................................133

Selecting Frame Patterns .....................................................134

Selecting Patterns from Embroidery Cards ..........................135

Selecting Patterns from USB media/Computer .....................135

VIEWING THE SEWING SCREEN ..................... 136

PREPARING THE FABRIC ................................. 138

Attaching Iron-on Stabilizers (backing) to the Fabric ...........138

Contents

Hooping the Fabric in the Embroidery Frame .....................139

Embroidering Small Fabrics or Fabric Edges ....................... 141

ATTACHING THE EMBROIDERY FRAME ..........143

CONFIRMING THE PATTERN POSITION ........144

Checking the Pattern Position .............................................144

Previewing the Completed Pattern ......................................145

SEWING AN EMBROIDERY PATTERN .............146

Sewing Attractive Finishes ..................................................146

Sewing Embroidery Patterns ................................................147

Sewing Embroidery Patterns Which Use Appliqué .............. 148

ADJUSTMENTS DURING THE EMBROIDERY

PROCESS ..........................................................150

If the Bobbin Runs Out of Thread .......................................150

If the Thread Breaks During Sewing ....................................151

Restarting from the Beginning .............................................152

Resuming Embroidery After Turning Off the Power .............152

MAKING EMBROIDERY ADJUSTMENTS .........154

Adjusting Thread Tension ...................................................154

Using the Automatic Thread Cutting Function

(END COLOR TRIM) ...........................................................155

Using the Thread Trimming Function (JUMP STITCH TRIM) 155

Adjusting the Embroidery Speed .........................................156

Changing the Thread Color Display.....................................157

Changing the Embroidery Frame Display ............................158

REVISING THE PATTERN .................................159

Changing the Pattern Position .............................................159

Aligning the Pattern and the Needle ....................................159

Changing the Size ...............................................................160

Rotating the Pattern .............................................................161

Creating a Horizontal Mirror Image ....................................162

Changing the Density (Alphabet Character

and Frame Patterns Only) ...................................................162

Changing the Colors of Alphabet Character Patterns ...........163

USING THE MEMORY FUNCTION ..................164

Embroidery Data Precautions ..............................................164

Saving Embroidery Patterns in the Machine’s Memory ........166

Saving Embroidery Patterns to USB Media (Commercially

Available)............................................................................168

Saving Embroidery Patterns in the Computer ....................... 169

Retrieving Patterns from the Machine’s Memory .................170

Recalling from USB Media ..................................................170

Recalling from the Computer...............................................171

EMBROIDERY APPLICATIONS .........................173

Using a Frame Pattern to Make an Appliqué (1) ..................173

Using a Frame Pattern to Make an Appliqué (2) ..................174

Chapter 6 Embroidery Edit 175

EXPLANATION OF FUNCTIONS .....................176

SELECTING PATTERNS TO EDIT ......................177

Selecting Embroidery Patterns/Heirloom Patterns/Border Patterns/Cross stitch Patterns/Floral Alphabet Patterns/Frame

Patterns ...............................................................................178

Selecting Alphabet Character Patterns .................................178

EDITING PATTERNS .........................................181

Moving the Pattern .............................................................183

Rotating the Pattern ............................................................183

Changing the Size of the Pattern .........................................184

Deleting the Pattern ............................................................185

Changing the Configuration of Alphabet Character Patterns 185

Changing Alphabet Character Spacing ...............................185

Changing the Color of Each

Alphabet Character in a Pattern ..........................................186

Changing the Thread Color ................................................187

Creating a Custom Thread Table .........................................188

Choosing a Color from the Custom Thread Table ................189

Designing Repeated Patterns ...............................................190

After Editing ........................................................................194

COMBINING PATTERNS...................................195

Editing Combined Patterns ..................................................195

Sewing Combined Patterns..................................................197

USING THE MEMORY FUNCTION...................198

Chapter 7 MY CUSTOM STITCH 199

DESIGNING A STITCH .................................... 200

ENTERING STITCH DATA ............................... 202

USING STORED CUSTOM STITCHES............... 207

Storing Custom Stitches in Your List.................................... 207

Retrieving Stored Stitches.................................................... 208

Chapter 8 Appendix 209

CARE AND MAINTENANCE ............................. 210

About the Maintenance Message ....................................... 210

Cleaning the LCD Screen ................................................... 210

Cleaning the Machine Casing ............................................ 210

Cleaning the Race............................................................... 210

Adjusting the Alternate Bobbin Case (with no marking) ...... 211

ADJUSTING THE SCREEN ................................ 212

Screen Visibility is Low....................................................... 212

Touch Panel is Malfunctioning ........................................... 212

TROUBLESHOOTING ...................................... 214

ERROR MESSAGES ........................................... 217

SPECIFICATIONS.............................................. 223

UPGRADING YOUR MACHINE’S SOFTWARE. 224

Upgrade Procedure Using USB Media................................ 224

Upgrade Procedure Using Computer .................................. 224

STITCH SETTING CHART ................................. 227

INDEX............................................................... 234

Contents

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.

Machine

■ Front View

a Top cover

Open the top cover to thread the machine and wind the bobbin.

b Thread cutter

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

c Thread take-up lever check window

Look through the window to check the upper thread passing through in it.

d Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment

Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory compartment of the flat bed attachment. When sewing cylindrical pieces, remove the flat bed attachment.

e Operation buttons (6 buttons) and sewing speed

controller

Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing machine.

f Knee lifter slot

Insert the knee lifter into the slot.

g Knee lifter

Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot.

h LCD (liquid crystal display)

Settings for the selected stitch and error messages appear in the LCD.

i Thread guide plate

Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when threading upper thread.

j Spool cap

Use the spool cap to hold the spool in place.

k Spool pin

Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.

l Bobbin winder

Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.

m Supplemental spool pin

Use this spool pin to wind the bobbin thread, or to sew with the twin needle.

n Thread guide for bobbin winding

Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding the bobbin thread.

o Pretension disk

Pass the thread around the pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread.

■ Right-side/Rear View

a Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.

b Handwheel

Turn the handwheel toward you to raise and lower the needle. The wheel should be turned toward the front of the machine.

c Embroidery card slot

Insert the embroidery cards (sold separately) into the embroidery card slot.

d USB port connector for media

In order to send patterns from/to USB media, plug the USB media directly into the USB port connector.

e USB port connector for computer

In order to import/export patterns between a computer and the machine, plug the USB cable into the USB port connector.

f Touch pen holder

Use the touch pen holder to hold the touch pen when not in use.

g Main power switch

Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine ON and OFF.

h Jack connector

Insert the power cord into the connector jack.

i Feed dog position switch

Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.

j Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

k Air vent

The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used.

l Foot controller with retractable cord

Depress the foot controller to control the speed of the machine.

m Foot controller jack

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the machine.

j k

d e

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Needle and Presser Foot Section

a Presser foot holder

The presser foot is attached onto the presser foot holder.

b Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.

c Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

d Bobbin cover

Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.

e Needle clamp screw

Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.

f Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is used with the one-step buttonhole foot to create buttonholes.

g Needle bar thread guides

Pass the upper thread through the two needle bar thread guides.

h Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew straight seams.

i Presser foot holder screw

Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot in place.

Embroidery Unit

a Carriage

The carriage moves the embroidery frame automatically when embroidering.

b Release button (located under the embroidery unit)

Press the release button to remove the embroidery unit.

c Feed dog position switch

Use the feed dog position switch to raise and lower the feed dogs while the embroidery unit is attached.

d Embroidery unit connection

Insert the embroidery unit connection into the connection port when attaching the embroidery unit.

e Embroidery frame holder

Insert the embroidery frame into the embroidery frame holder to hold the frame in place.

f Frame-securing lever

Press the frame-securing lever down to secure the embroidery frame.

CAUTION

• After the embroidery frame is set in the frame holder, be sure the frame-securing lever is correctly lowered.

Note

• Be sure that the feed dog position switch on

the embroidery unit is located at right when embroidering.

• You can also sew utility/decorative stitches

with the embroidery unit attached. Set the feed dog position switch on the embroidery unit to the appropriate setting.

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Operation Buttons

a “Start/Stop” button

Press this button and the machine will sew a few stitches at a slow speed and then begin sewing at the speed set by the sewing speed controller. Press the button again to stop the machine. Hold the button in to sew at the machine’s slowest speed. The button changes color according to the machine’s operation mode.

b “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

Use this button to sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing. Press this button, and the machine sews 3 stitches in the same spot and stops automatically. For straight and zigzag stitch patterns that take reverse stitches, the machine will sew reverse stitches at low speed only while holding down the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch“ button (the stitches are sewn in the opposite direction).

c “Needle Position” button

Use this button when changing sewing direction or for detailed sewing in small areas. Press this button to raise or lower the needle position. Press the button twice to sew a single stitch.

d “Thread Cutter” button

Press this button after sewing to automatically trim the excess thread.

e “Presser Foot Lifter” button

Press this button to lower the presser foot and apply pressure to the fabric. Press this button again to raise the presser foot.

f Sewing Speed controller

Use this controller to adjust the sewing speed. Move the slide to the left to sew at slower speeds. Move the slide to the right to sew at higher speeds. Beginners should sew at a slow speed.

g “Automatic Threading” button

Use this button to automatically thread the needle.

Included Accessories

Pull the top of the flat bed attachment to open the accessory compartment.

a Storage space b Presser foot storage space c Presser foot storage space

Included Accessories 31-34 are contained in the embroidery unit carrying case. To open the embroidery unit carrying case, unhook the two latches on the case. To re-hook the latches and securely close the case, press on the latches until each of them clicks.

a Latches

Green: the machine is ready to sew or is sewing.

Red: the machine cannot sew.

CAUTION

• Do not press the thread cutter button after the threads have already been cut. Otherwise, the needle may break, the threads may become tangled, or damage to the machine may occur.

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

→ Included Accessories

1 234567

8 9 10 11 12 13 14

15 16 17 18 19

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27

28 29 30 31

32*

33*

34*

36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43

44 45 46 47 48 49 50

*1Included Accessories 31-34 are contained in the embroidery unit carrying case.

75/11 2 needles 90/14 2 needles 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

* See Circular Attachment Instruction Manual for detailed

instruction.

** See Operation Manual Addendum for detailed instruction.

51 52

54*

55*

56*

57*

58*

59*

60*

*2See Circular Attachment Instruction Manual for detailed instruction. *

See Operation Manual Addendum for detailed instruction.

No. Part Name

Part Code

U.S.A./

Canada

Others

1 Buttonhole foot “A” X57789-151

2 Embroidery foot “W” XC8156-651

3 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-051

4 Monogramming foot “N” X53840-351

5 Zipper foot “I” X59370-051

6 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-051

7 Blind stitch foot “R” X56409-051

8 Button fitting foot “M” 130489-001

9 Walking foot SA140 F033N:X81125-001

10 Side cutter foot SA177 F054:XC3198-101

11 Free-motion quilting foot SA129 F005N:XC1948-002

12 Straight stitch foot SA167 F042N:XC1973-102

13 Seam ripper X54243-051

14 Bobbin × 10 SA156 SFB

15 Needle set X58358-051

16 Twin needle X59296-151

17 Ball point needle set XD0705-051

18 Scissors XC1807-121

19 Chalk pen XE8568-001

20 Cleaning brush X59476-051

21 Eyelet punch 135793-001

22 Screwdriver (large) XC8349-021

23 Screwdriver (small) X55468-021

24 Spool cap (small) 130013-154

25 Spool cap (medium) × 2 X55260-153

26 Spool cap (large) 130012-054

27 Vertical spool pin XC8619-051

28 Spool felt X57045-051

29 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051

30 Spool net XA5523-050

31 Embroidery frame set (small)

H 2 cm × W 6 cm (H 1 inch × W 2-1/2 inches)

SA437 EF73:XC8479-052

32 Embroidery frame set

(medium) H 10 cm × W 10 cm (H 4 inches × W 4 inches)

SA438 FE74:XC8480-052

33 Embroidery frame set (large)

H 18 cm × W 13 cm (H 7 inches × W 5 inches)

SA439 EF75:XC8481-052

34 Embroidery frame set (extra

large) H 30 cm × W 18 cm (H 12 inches × W 7 inches)

SA440 EF76:XC8482-052

35 Foot controller XD0500-151 (EU area)

XC8028-051 (other area)

36 Embroidery needle plate

cover

XA9939-051

37 Grid sheet set SA507 GS3:X81277-150

38 Touch pen (stylus) XA9940-051

39 Knee lifter XA6941-052

40 USB cable XD0745-051

41 Bobbin case (no marking) XC8167-551

42 Straight stitch needle plate XC8362-151

43 Cord guide bobbin cover (with

single hole)

XE8991-001

44 Embroidery bobbin thread SA-EBT EBT-CEN:

X81164-001

45 Stabilizer material SA519 BM3:X81175-101

46 Operation manual XF0649-001

47 Quick reference guide XF0584-001

48 Embroidery unit carrying

case

SA529 D6EUC:

XC9862-052

49 Hard case XC7750-051

50 Free-motion quilting foot “C” XE0765-101

51 Free-motion open toe quilting

foot “O”

XE0767-001

52 Free-motion echo quilting foot

“E”

XE0766-001

Circular attachment

BL-CSA

54 Attachment screw

(2pcs. one is extra)

XE6022-001

Pivot pin

XE6016-001

Te mp l at e

XE6024-001

Braiding foot

SA141 F021N

Cording foot

SA110 F013N

Bobbin case (gray)

XE8298-001

Bobbin cover (with mark)

XF0750-001

Memo

(For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Model S This foot controller can be used with this

machine model NV5000.

No. Part Name

Part Code

U.S.A./

Canada

Others

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Options

Memo

• Always use accessories recommended for this machine.

• The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer (Part code XA4813-051).

• Included accessories 35, 46, and 47 can be stored in the machine’s hard case.

123

No. Part Name

Part Code

U.S.A./

Canada

Others

1 Embroidery bobbin thread

(White)

SA-EBT X81164-001

Embroidery bobbin thread (Black)

SAEBT999 XC5520-001

2 Stabilizer material SA519 X81175-101

Water soluble stabilizer SA520 X81267-001

3 Embroidery card

No. 1 Alphabet SA298 X58317-001

No. 2 Flower SA299 X58321-001

No. 3 Dinosaur SA300 X58362-001

No. 6 Moskowitz’s World SA303 X58497-001

No. 7 Country Life SA304 X59322-001

No. 8 Holiday SA305 X59357-001

No. 9 Hobby Craft SA306 X59511-001

No. 10 Monogram Emblem SA307 X59567-001

No. 11 Frame SA311 XA0257-001

No. 12 Transportation SA312 XA0275-001

No. 13 Sports Emblem SA313 XA0517-001

No. 14 Large Floral SA314 XA1223-001

No. 16 Cats & Dogs SA316 XA1406-001

No. 19 Marine SA319 XA2452-001

No. 20 Petite Designs SA320 XA2869-001

No. 21 Needlework SA321 XA2873-001

No. 22 Large Quilt SA322 XA3431-001

No. 23 White on White SA323 XA3430-001

No. 25 Horse SA325 XA3791-001

3 No. 27 Birds SA327 XA4289-001

No. 28 Christmas SA328 XA4502-001

No. 29 Lace SA329 XA4664-001

No. 30 Wildlife Animals SA330 XA4771-001

No. 31 Large Flower II SA331 XA5037-001

No. 32 Musical Instruments SA332 XA5386-001

No. 33 Trees SA333 XA5567-001

No. 35 Cats & Dogs II SA335 XA5629-001

No. 36 Fruits & Vegetables SA336 XA5659-001

No. 37 Appliqué Alphabet SA337 XA5753-001

No. 38 Angel SA338 XA5781-001

No. 39 Doll Face SA339 XA5978-001

No. 40 Sports 3 SA340 XA6111-001

No. 41 Renaissance Alphabet SA341 XA6586-001

No. 42 Farm SA342 XA6733-001

No. 43 Victorian SA343 XA6769-001

No. 44 Lace2 SA344 XA6849-001

No. 45 Fancy Work SA345 XA7770-001

No. 46 Australian Animals SA346 XA7893-001

No. 47 Butterfly SA347 XA8206-001

No. 48 Australian Flowers SA348 XA8250-001

No. 49 Folk Art SA349 XA8348-001

No. 50 Fairy & Floral SA350 XA8414-001

No. 52 Bear Collections SA352 XA8511-001

No. 53 Scene SA353 XA8936-001

No. 54 Tea Time SA354 XA9129-001

No. 55 Gardening SA355 XA9348-001

No. 56 Asian SA356 XC0025-001

No. 57 Large Christmas SA357 XC0057-001

No. 58 New Quilt Traditions SA358 XC0861-001

No. 60 Summer Fun SA360 XC1168-001

No. 61 Blouse Embellishment SA361 XC1304-001

No. 62 Zodiac Signs SA362 XC1502-001

No. 63 Bunny SA363 XC1646-001

No. 64 Grand Mom SA364 XC2176-001

No. 65 Red Work SA365 XC4220-001

No. 66 Pop Mix SA366 XC4819-001

No. 67 Home Dec Collection SA367 XC7048-001

No. 68 Cross Stitch Collection1

SA368 XC7097-001

No. 69 Sport Shirt Motifs SA369 XC7274-001

No. 70 Cross Stitch Collection2

SA370 XC7550-001

Memo

• You can use any of the brother embroidery cards listed above with your machine.

• Please be aware that some specifications may change without notice.

Note

• Embroidery cards purchased in foreign countries may not work with your machine.

No. Part Name

Part Code

U.S.A./

Canada

Others

Chapter 1

Getting Ready

TURNING THE MACHINE ON/OFF......................................................8

LCD SCREEN..........................................................................................9

■ Key Functions..................................................................................................................10

Using the Machine Setting Mode Key......................................................................12

■ Adjusting Screen Brightness ............................................................................................15

■ Choosing the Display Language.......................................................................................16

Using the Machine Operation Mode Key ................................................................ 17

Using the Pattern Explanation Key .......................................................................... 18

LOWER THREADING ..........................................................................19

Winding the Bobbin ................................................................................................ 19

■ Using the Supplemental Spool Pin...................................................................................19

■ Using the Spool Pin .........................................................................................................21

Setting the Bobbin................................................................................................... 22

Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread .................................................................................23

UPPER THREADING............................................................................25

Threading Using the “Automatic Threading” Button...............................................25

Threading Manually ................................................................................................ 27

Using the Twin Needle Mode ..................................................................................29

Using Threads that Unwind Quickly .......................................................................31

■ Using the Spool Net ........................................................................................................31

■ Using the Vertical Spool Pin............................................................................................31

CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT .......................................................32

Removing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................32

Attaching the Presser Foot ...................................................................................... 32

Attaching the Walking Foot.....................................................................................33

CHANGING THE NEEDLE...................................................................34

■ About the Needle ............................................................................................................36

■ Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations ..............................................................................36

TURNING THE MACHINE ON/OFF

Insert the power cord into the power cord jack connector, then insert the plug into a wall outlet.

a Main power switch b Power cord

Turn the main power switch to “I” to turn on the machine.

a OFF b ON

Turn the main power switch to “O” to turn off the machine.

WARNING

• Use only regular household electricity as the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

• Turn the main power to OFF and remove the plug in the following circumstances: When you are away from the machine After using the machine When the power fails during use When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection During electrical storms

CAUTION

• Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result.

• Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

• When unplugging the machine, always turn the main power to OFF first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

• Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord, or cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

• Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise, a fire may result.

• When leaving the machine unattended, either the main switch of the machine should be turned to OFF or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.

• When servicing the machine or when removing covers, either the machine or the electrical set must be unplugged.

• For U.S.A. only This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical

shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified

electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

LCD SCREEN

Getting Ready

LCD SCREEN

When switching on the machine, the screen will display the name of the machine. Touch the screen to display the utility stitch. Either “1-01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “1-03 Straight stitch (Middle)” is selected, depending on the setting selected in the setting screen (See page 12). Press a key with your finger to select the stitch pattern, to select a machine function, or to select an operation indicated on the key.

a Shows single or twin needle mode setting, and the needle stop position.

b Shows the presser foot code. Attach the presser foot indicated in this display before sewing. c Shows the name and code number of the selected stitch. d Shows a preview of the selected stitch. e Shows the stitch patterns. f Shows additional pages that can be displayed.

* All key functions of the LCD are explained in the “key functions” table on the following page.

Note

When the straight stitch needle plate is on the machine, the needle will automatically move to the middle position.

Memo

• Only touch the screen with your finger or the included touch pen. Do not use a sharp pencil, screw-

driver, or other hard or sharp object. It is not necessary to press hard on the screen. Pressing too hard or using a sharp object may damage the screen.

Single needle/down position Single needle/up position

Twin needle/down position Twin needle/up position

LCD SCREEN

■ Key Functions

No. Display Key Name Explanation Page

a Utility stitch key Press this key to select a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, buttonhole, blind hem

stitch, or other stitches commonly used in garment construction.

b Character/Decorative

stitch key

Press this key to select character or decorative stitch patterns. 98

c Embroidery key Attach the embroidery unit and press this key to sew embroidery. 130

d Embroidery edit key Press this key to combine embroidery patterns. With the embroidery edit

functions, you can also create original embroidery patterns or frame patterns.

177

e Sewing type selection

key

Press this key when you need help selecting the appropriate stitch pattern for the sewing application and when you need instructions on how to sew the stitch pattern. This key is very helpful for beginners.

f Pattern explanation

key

Press this key to see an explanation of the selected pattern. 18

g Autom ati c

reinforcement stitch key

Press this key to use the automatic reinforcement stitching (reverse stitching) setting. If you select this setting before sewing, the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing (depending on the pattern, the machine may sew reverse stitches).

h Automatic thread

cutting key

Press this key to set the automatic thread cutting function. Set the automatic thread cutting function before sewing to have the machine automatically sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing (depending on the pattern, the machine may sew reverse stitches) and trim the threads after sewing.

bcd

LCD SCREEN

Getting Ready

i Stitch selection

display

Press the key of the pattern you want to sew. Use to

change selection screens.

j Screen lock key Press this key to lock the screen.When the screen is locked, the various

settings, such as the stitch width and stitch length, are locked and cannot be changed. Press this key again to unlock the settings.

k Image key Press this key to display an enlarged image of the selected stitch pattern. 49

l Mirror image key Press this key to create a mirror image of the selected stitch pattern. If the key

display is light gray, a mirror image of the selected stitch pattern cannot be sewn.

m Needle mode

selection key (single/ double)

Press this key to select twin needle sewing mode. The sewing mode changes between single needle mode and twin needle mode each time you press the key. If the key display is light gray, the selected stitch pattern cannot be sewn in twin needle mode.

n Reset key Press this key to return the selected stitch pattern’s saved settings to the

original settings.

42-43

o Retrieve key Press this key to retrieve a saved pattern. 51

p Manual memory key Change the stitch pattern settings (zigzag width and stitch length, thread

tension, automatic thread cutting or automatic reinforcement stitching, etc.), then save them by pressing this key. Five sets of settings can be saved for a single stitch pattern.

q Stitch width and stitch

length key

Shows the zigzag width and stitch length settings of the currently selected stitch pattern. You can use the plus and minus keys to adjust the zigzag width and stitch length settings.

r Thread tension key Shows the thread tension setting of the currently selected stitch pattern. The

thread tension is usually set automatically. You can use the plus and minus keys to change the thread tension settings.

s Machine setting mode

key

Press this key to change the needle stop position, turn the buzzer ON/OFF, adjust the pattern or screen, and change other machine settings.

t Machine operation

mode key

Press this key to see explanations for upper threading, winding the bobbin, changing the presser foot, and how to use the machine.

u Presser foot/Needle

exchange key

Press this key before changing the needle, the presser foot, etc. This key locks all key and button functions to prevent operation of the machine.

32-35

No. Display Key Name Explanation Page

LCD SCREEN

Using the Machine Setting Mode Key

Press to change the default machine settings (needle stop position, embroidery speed, opening

display, etc.) Press , or to display the different settings screens.

Sewing settings

a Select whether to use the sewing speed controller to determine the zigzag width (see page 70). b Make adjustments to character or decorative stitch patterns (see page 103). c Adjust the presser foot height. (Select the height of the presser foot when the presser foot is raised.) d Adjust the presser foot pressure. (The higher the number, the higher the pressure will be. Set the pressure at 3 for

normal sewing.)

e Select whether “1-01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “1-03 Straight stitch (Middle)” is the utility stitch that is automatically

selected when the machine is turned on.

f Change the height of the presser foot when sewing is stopped when the pivot setting is selected (see page 53).

Adjust the presser foot to one of the three heights (3.2 mm, 5.0 mm and 7.5 mm).

g Change the height of the presser foot when the machine is set to free-motion sewing mode (see page 83). h When set to “ON”, the thickness of the fabric is automatically detected by an internal sensor while sewing, so the

fabric can be fed smoothly (see pages 47 and 55).

i Adjust the character spacing on Character/Decorative stitch (see page 101).

Memo

• This function will be available in future technology upgrades.

• Press or to display a different settings screen.

LCD SCREEN

Getting Ready

General settings

a Change the brightness of the LCD (see page 15). b Select the needle stop position (the needle position when the machine is not operating) to be up or down. c Turn the buzzer ON/OFF. d Turn the Needle Area and Work Area Lights ON/OFF. e Turn the opening screen display ON/OFF. f Use when running an application. g Change the display language (see page 16). h Display the service count and the total number of embroidery stitches. The service count is a reminder to take your

machine in for regular servicing. (Contact your authorized dealer for details.)

i The “NO.” is the number for the embroidery and sewing machine. j Display the program version.

Memo

The latest version of software is installed in your machine. Check with your local authorized Brother dealer or at www.brother.com for notification of available updates (see page 224).

i j

LCD SCREEN

Embroidery settings

a Select from among 10 embroidery frame displays (see page 158). b Change the thread color display on the embroidery screen; thread number, color name or each time to embroider

(see page 156).

c When the thread number #123 is selected, select among six thread brands (see page 156). d Adjust the maximum embroidery speed setting (see page 156). e Adjust the thread tension for embroidering. f Select the height of the embroidery foot “W” during embroidering (see page 138). g Change the display units (mm/inch). h Change the initial mode of the display (embroidery/embroidery edit). i Customize the thread color numbers (see page 188).

LCD SCREEN

Getting Ready

■ Adjusting Screen Brightness

Press .

→ The Sewing settings screen appears.

Press .

→ The General settings screen appears.

On the BRIGHTNESS OF LCD display, use

and to adjust the screen

brightness.

* Press to make the screen darker.

* Press to make the screen lighter.

a Brightness of LCD display

Press .

Note

• All or part of the screen may sometimes

become darker or lighter because of changes in the air temperature or other changes in the environment around the screen. This is normal and is not a sign of malfunction. Adjust the screen if it is difficult to read.

• The screen may be dark immediately after

turning on the power. This is a function of the LCD back light screen, and it is not a sign of malfunction. The screen will return to its normal level of brightness after approximately 10 minutes.

• If you are not directly in front of the machine

when you view the LCD, the colors may appear to change or the screen may be difficult to see. This is a characteristic of the LCD, and not a sign of damage or malfunction. For best results operate the screen while sitting in front of the machine.

Memo

• Press or to display a different

settings screen.

LCD SCREEN

■ Choosing the Display Language

Press .

→ The Sewing settings screen appears.

Press .

→ The General settings screen appears.

Use and to choose the display

language.

* Choose from the following languages: [ENGLISH],

[GERMAN], [FRENCH], [ITALIAN], [DUTCH], [SPANISH], [DANISH], [FINNISH], [SWEDISH], [PORTUGEUSE], [RUSSIAN], [NORWEGIAN] or [JAPANESE].

a Display language

Press .

LCD SCREEN

Getting Ready

Using the Machine Operation Mode Key

Press to open the screen shown below. Six categories are displayed at the top of the screen. Press a key to see more information about that category.

displays information about

the main parts of the machine and their functions. This is the first screen displayed

when you press .

displays information about

the operation buttons.

displays information about

threading the machine, changing presser feet, etc.

displays information about

attaching the embroidery unit, preparing fabric for embroidering, etc.

displays troubleshooting

information.

displays information about

cleaning the machine, etc.

LCD SCREEN

Example: Displaying information about

upper threading

Press .

→ The lower half of the screen will change.

Press (upper threading).

→ The screen shows instructions for threading the

machine.

Read the instructions.

* Press to see a video of the displayed

instructions.

* Press to view the next page.

Press to return to the original

screen.

Using the Pattern Explanation Key

If you want to know more about the uses of a stitch

pattern, select the pattern and press to see an explanation of the stitch selection.

Example: Displaying information about

Press .

→ The screen shows information about .

Press to return to the original

screen.

LOWER THREADING

Getting Ready

LOWER THREADING

Winding the Bobbin

Press → → →

in that order to display a video example of

bobbin winding on the LCD (see page 18). Follow the steps explained below to complete the operation.

■ Using the Supplemental Spool Pin

With this machine, you can wind the bobbin during sewing. While using the main spool pin to sew embroidery, you can conveniently wind the bobbin using the supplemental spool pin.

a Supplemental spool pin

Turn the main power to ON.

Align the groove in the bobbin with the spring on the bobbin winder shaft, and set the bobbin on the shaft.

a Groove of the bobbin b Spring on the shaft

Set the supplemental spool pin in the “up” position.

a Supplemental spool pin

Place the spool of thread on the supplemental spool pin, so that thread unrolls from the front. Then push the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible to secure the thread spool.

a Spool pin b Spool cap c Thread spool

CAUTION

• The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB).

Actual size

This model

Other models

11.5 mm (approx. 7/16 inch)

7, 8

3, 4

LOWER THREADING

With your right hand, hold the thread near the thread spool. With your left hand, hold the end of the thread, and use both hands to pass the thread through the thread guide.

a Thread guide

Pass the thread under the pin, and pass the thread around the pretension disk making sure that the thread is under the pretension disk.

a Pin b Pretension disk

Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin 4-5 times.

Pass the end of the thread through the guide slit in the bobbin winder seat, and pull the thread to the right to cut the thread with the cutter.

a Guide slit b Bobbin winder seat

CAUTION

• If the thread spool and/or spool cap are set

incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.

• Use the spool cap (large, medium, or small)

that is closest in size to the thread spool. If a spool cap smaller than the thread spool is used, the thread may become caught in the slit on the end of the spool and cause the needle to break.

Memo

When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the thread spool.

a Spool cap (small) b Thread spool (cross-wound thread) c Space

CAUTION

• Be sure to follow the process described. If the thread is not cut with the cutter, and the bobbin is wound, when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break.

LOWER THREADING

Getting Ready

Set the bobbin holder to the left, until it clicks into place.

a Bobbin holder (switch)

→ The bobbin starts winding automatically and stops

rotating when it is done winding. The bobbin holder will return to the original position.

Cut the thread with the cutter and remove the bobbin.

■ Using the Spool Pin

You can use the main spool pin to wind the bobbin before sewing. You cannot use this spool pin to wind the bobbin while sewing.

Turn the main power to ON.

Align the groove in the bobbin with the spring on the bobbin winder shaft, and set the bobbin on the shaft.

a Groove of the bobbin b Spring on the shaft

Pivot the spool pin so that it angles upward. Set the thread spool on the spool pin so that the thread unwinds from the front of the spool.

a Spool pin b Spool cap c Thread spool

Memo

When the bobbin holder is set to the left, it works as a switch to make the bobbin wind automatically.

Memo

• When removing the bobbin, do not pull on the bobbin winder seat. Doing so could loosen or remove the bobbin winder seat, and could result in damage to the machine.

CAUTION

• Setting the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen, breaking the needle and possibly resulting in injury.

LOWER THREADING

Push the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible, then return the spool pin to its original position.

Holding the thread with your hands, slide the thread into the grooves on the thread guide plate.

a Thread guide plate

Pass the thread through the thread guide.

a Thread guide

Pass the thread under the pin. Then pass the thread around the pretension disk making sure that the thread is under the pretension disk.

a Thread guide b Pin c Pretension disk

Follow steps g through j on page 20 through 21.

Setting the Bobbin

Press → → →

in that order to display a video example of

the operation on the LCD (see page 18). Follow the steps explained below to complete the operation.

Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to raise the presser foot.

Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.

a Bobbin cover b Latch

→ The bobbin cover opens.

Remove the bobbin cover.

Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold the end of the thread with your left hand.

CAUTION

• Use a bobbin thread that has been correctly wound. Otherwise, the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

LOWER THREADING

Getting Ready

Set the bobbin in the bobbin case so that the thread unwinds to the left.

Hold the bobbin lightly with your right hand, and then guide the thread with your left hand.

Pass the thread through the guide, and then pull the thread out towards the front.

a Cutter

→ The cutter cuts the thread.

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side to close the cover.

Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread

There may be some sewing applications where you want to pull up the bobbin thread; for example, when making gathers, darts, or doing free motion quilting or embroidery.

Guide the bobbin thread through the groove, following the arrow in the illustration.

* Do not cut the thread with the cutter. * Do not replace the bobbin cover.

While holding the upper thread, press the needle position button to lower the needle.

a Needle position button

CAUTION

• Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and unwind the bobbin thread correctly. Otherwise, the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

Memo

You can pull up the bobbin thread after threading the upper thread (see “UPPER THREADING” on page 25).

LOWER THREADING

Press the “Needle Position” button to raise the needle.

Gently pull the upper thread, and a loop of the bobbin thread will come out of the hole in the needle plate.

Pull up the bobbin thread, then pass it under the presser foot and pull it about 100 mm (approx. 3-4 inches) toward the back of the machine, making it even with the upper thread.

a Upper thread b Bobbin thread

Replace the bobbin cover.

a b

UPPER THREADING

Getting Ready

UPPER THREADING

Threading Using the “Automatic Threading” Button

Press → → →

in that order to display a video example of

the operation on the LCD (see page 18). Follow the steps explained below to complete the operation.

Turn the main power to ON.

Press the “Needle Position” button to raise the needle.

Pivot the spool pin so that it angles upward. Set the thread spool on the spool pin so that the thread unwinds from the front of the spool.

a Spool pin b Spool cap c Thread spool

Push the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible, then return the spool pin to its original position.

CAUTION

• Be sure to thread the machine properly. Improper threading can cause the thread to tangle and break the needle, leading to injury.

• When using accessories not included with this machine, attach the accessory to the machine after threading the machine.

Memo

• The automatic threading function can be

used with sewing machine needles 75/11 through 100/16.

• Thread such as transparent nylon monofila-

ment thread and thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker cannot be used with the automatic threading function.

• The automatic threading function cannot be

used with the wing needle or the twin needle.

• If the automatic threading function cannot be

used, see “Threading Manually” on page 27.

3, 4

Note

If you try to thread the needle automatically without raising the needle, the thread may not thread correctly.

CAUTION

• If the thread spool and/or spool cap are set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.

• Use the spool cap (large, medium, or small) that is closest in size to the thread spool. If a spool cap smaller than the thread spool is used, the thread may become caught in the slit on the end of the spool and cause the needle to break.

UPPER THREADING

Holding the thread with your hands, slide the thread into the grooves on the thread guide plate.

a Thread guide plate

While holding the thread in your right hand, pass the thread through the thread guide in the direction indicated.

When finished pulling the thread through the thread guide, cut the thread and leave the thread in position.

a Cutter

Press the “Automatic Threading” button to have the machine automatically thread the needle.

→ The upper threading is finished.

Memo

When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the thread spool.

a Spool cap (small) b Thread spool (cross-wound thread) c Space

Memo

When the “Automatic Threading” button is pressed, the presser foot will be automatically lowered.

Note

In case the needle is not completely thread, slowly pull the loop of the thread through from the back of the needle.

a About 50mm (approx. 2 inches)

Memo

If the needle could not be threaded or the thread was not passed through the needle bar thread guides, perform the procedure again starting from step

UPPER THREADING

Getting Ready

Threading Manually

Automatic threading cannot be used when using the wing needle, the twin needle, or special thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker. In these cases, thread the needle as described below.

Turn the main power to ON.

Turn the handwheel so that the line on the machine is aligned with the line on the handwheel.

a Line on handwheel

Press .

→ The key appears as .

Raise the presser foot lever.

Pivot the spool pin so that it angles upward. Set the thread spool on the spool pin so that the thread unwinds from the front of the spool.

a Spool pin b Spool cap c Thread spool

Note

When the “Automatic Threading” button is pressed, the presser foot will be automatically lowered. If you are using an incorrect needle and thread combination, the hook may sometimes get caught in the needle. If this happens, remove the hook from the needle as described below.

CAUTION

• The needle thread carrier will automatically thread the needle when the “Automatic Threading” button is pressed. Be sure to keep your hands and other items away from the needle area, otherwise injuries may occur.

5, 6

4, 12

Memo

If the line on the machine is not aligned with the line on the handwheel, the sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check that the line on the handwheel is facing up as shown in the illustration above.

UPPER THREADING

Push the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible, then return the spool pin to its original position.

Holding the thread with both hands, slide the thread into the grooves on the thread guide plate.

a Thread guide plate

While holding the thread in your right hand, use your left hand to pull the thread toward the threading path cover, then pass it along the thread path as shown in the illustration. Be sure to pass the thread along the right side of the thread path guide.

a Threading path cover b Thread path guide

Pull the thread under the thread path guide.

a Thread path guide

Pull back up the thread along the left side of the thread path guide to the top left corner of the threading path cover.

a Top left corner b Threading path cover

Pull the thread back down to the needle bar along the left side of the thread path guide.

* Make sure the thread is hooked at the top corner

and positioned behind the transparent front cover.

a Thread take-up lever check window b Transparent front cover

CAUTION

• If the thread spool and/or spool cap are set

incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.

• Use the spool cap (large, medium, or small)

that is closest in size to the thread spool. If a spool cap smaller than the thread spool is used, the thread may become caught in the slit on the end of the spool and cause the needle to break.

Memo

Look through the thread take-up lever check window and check that the thread is correctly fed through the take-up lever, turning the handwheel toward you.

(A)

(B)

(C)

a Take-up lever b Thread

UPPER THREADING

Getting Ready

Lower the presser foot lever.

Holding the thread with both hands, pass the thread through both the upper and lower needle bar thread guides.

a Needle bar thread guide (upper) b Needle bar thread guide (lower)

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from front to back.

Pass the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 100-150 mm (approx. 4-6 inches) of thread toward the back of the machine.

a 100-150 mm (approx. 4-6 inches)

Press to unlock all keys and

buttons.

Using the Twin Needle Mode

The twin needle can only be used for patterns that

show after being selected. Before you select a stitch pattern, make sure the stitch can be

sewn in the twin needle mode (refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual).

Press and install the twin needle

(see “CHANGING THE NEEDLE” on page 34).

Manually thread the machine.

* Follow the steps for threading a single needle for the

first threading (see “Threading Manually” on page

27).

CAUTION

• Use only twin needles made for this machine (part code X59296-151). Other needles could break, resulting in damage.

• Be sure to set the twin needle mode when using the twin needle. Using the twin needle while the machine is in single needle mode could cause the needle to break, resulting in damage.

• Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and cause injury.

• When using the twin needle, be sure to use presser foot “J” only.

• When the twin needle is used, bunched stitches may occur depending on the types of fabric and thread that are used. If this occurs, use monogramming foot “N”.

UPPER THREADING

Pass the thread through the needle bar thread guides on the needle bar, then thread the needle on the left side.

a Needle bar thread guides

Pull up the supplemental spool pin and set it in the up position.

a Supplemental spool pin

Place the additional spool of thread on the supplemental spool pin, so that the thread unwinds from the front. Then push the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible to secure the thread spool.

a Spool pin b Spool cap c Thread spool

Hold the thread from the spool with both hands, and place the thread in the thread guide.

* Do not place the thread in the bobbin winding

thread guide.

a Thread guide

Pass the thread through the thread guide plate, following the sequence as described below.

Do not pass the thread in the needle bar thread guides on the needle bar. Thread the needle on the right side.

Press .

Note

• The “Automatic Threading” button cannot be used. Manually thread the twin needle from front to back. Using the “Automatic Threading” button may result in damage to the machine.

UPPER THREADING

Getting Ready

Select a stitch pattern. (Example: )

* Refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end

of this manual for proper stitch to use with presser foot “J”.

→ The Selected stitch is displayed.

Press to select the twin needle

mode.

a Single needle/twin needle setting

→ appears.

Start sewing.

Sample of Twin Needle Sewing

Using Threads that Unwind Quickly

■ Using the Spool Net

If using transparent nylon thread, metallic thread, or other strong thread, place the included spool net over the spool before using it. When using these threads, threading must be done manually. If the spool net is too long, fold it once to match it to the spool size before placing it over the spool.

■ Using the Vertical Spool Pin

Use the vertical spool pin when using an irregularly shaped thread spool, and when sewing or embroidering with metallic thread.

Insert the vertical spool pin into the end of the bobbin winder shaft.

Install the spool felt and the thread spool in that order, and then thread the upper thread.

Note

If the key is light gray after selecting

the stitch, the selected stitch cannot be sewn in the twin needle mode.

CAUTION

Be sure to set the twin needle mode when using the twin needle. Using the twin needle while the machine is in single needle mode could cause the needle to break, resulting in damage.

Memo

• When threading the spool with the spool net on, the thread may not come out enough. Make sure that 5-6 cm (approx. 2 - 2-1/2 inches) of thread are pulled out.

• It may be necessary to adjust the thread tension when using the spool net.

Memo

• When setting the thread spool, set it so that the thread winds off from the front of the spool.

• If using metallic thread, we recommend that you use a 90/14 home sewing machine needle.

• This method keeps the thread from twisting as it comes off the spool pin.

d c

a Spool net b Thread spool c Spool pin d Spool cap

a Bobbin winder shaft b Vertical spool pin c Spool felt d Thread spool

CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT

Removing the Presser Foot

Press the “Needle Position” button to raise the needle.

Press .

→ The key appears as .

Raise the presser foot lever.

Press the black button on the presser foot holder and remove the presser foot.

a Black button b Presser foot holder

Attaching the Presser Foot

Place the new presser foot under the holder, aligning the foot pin with the notch in the holder. Lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the holder.

a Notch b Pin

Press to unlock all keys and

buttons.

Raise the presser foot lever.

CAUTION

• Always press on the screen before changing the presser foot. If is not pressed and the “Start/Stop” button or another button is pressed, the machine will start and may cause injury.

• Always use the correct presser foot for the selected stitch pattern. If the wrong presser foot is used, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.

• Only use presser feet made for this machine. Using other presser feet may lead to accident or injury.

CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT

Getting Ready

Attaching the Walking Foot

The walking foot holds the fabric between the presser foot and the feed dogs to feed the fabric. This enables you to have better fabric control when sewing difficult fabrics (such as quilting or velvet) or fabrics that slip easily (such as vinyl cloth, leather, or synthetic leather).

Follow the steps in “Removing the Presser Foot” on the previous page.

Loosen the screw of the presser foot holder to remove the presser foot holder.

Set the operation lever of the walking foot so that the needle clamp screw is set between the fork, and position the walking foot on the presser foot bar.

a Operation lever b Needle clamp screw c Fork d Presser foot bar

Lower the presser foot lever. Insert the screw, and tighten the screw securely with the screwdriver.

Note

• When sewing with the walking foot, sew at

medium to low speeds.

Memo

• The walking foot can only be used with

straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the walking foot. Only select straight or zigzag stitch patterns with reinforcement stitches.

CAUTION

• Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw securely. If the screw is loose, the needle may strike the presser foot and cause injury.

• Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the front of the machine to check that the needle does not strike the presser foot. If the needle strikes the presser foot, injury may result.

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

Press the “Needle Position” button to raise the needle.

Press .

→ The key appears as .

Use the screwdriver to turn the screw toward the front of the machine and loosen the screw, then remove the needle.

CAUTION

• Always press on the screen before changing the needle. If is not pressed and the Start/ Stop button or another operation button is pressed accidentally, the machine will start and injury may

result.

• Use only sewing machine needles made for home use. Other needles may bend or break and may cause injury.

• Never sew with a bent needle. A bent needle will easily break and may cause injury.

Memo

To check the needle correctly, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface. Check the needle from the top and the sides. Throw away any bent needles.

a Parallel space b Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)

Note

• Do not apply pressure to the needle clamp screw. Doing so may damage the needle or machine.

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

Getting Ready

With the flat side of the needle facing the back, insert the new needle all the way to the top of the needle stopper (viewing window) in the needle clamp. Use a screwdriver to securely tighten the needle clamp screw.

a Needle stopper b Hole for setting the needle c Flat side of needle

Press to unlock all keys and

buttons.

CAUTION

• Be sure to push in the needle until it touches the stopper, and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver. If the needle is not completely inserted or the needle clamp screw is loose, the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

■ About the Needle

The sewing machine needle is probably the most important part of the sewing machine. Choosing the proper needle for your sewing project will result in a beautiful finish and fewer problems. Below are some things to keep in mind about needles.

• The smaller the needle number, the finer the needle. As the numbers increase, the needles get thicker.

• Use fine needles with lightweight fabrics, and thicker needles with heavyweight fabrics.

• To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (golden colored) 90/14 with stretch fabrics.

• To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (golden colored) 90/14 when sewing character or decorative stitches.

• Use needle 75/11 for embroidery. Use ball point needle 75/107 for embroidering patterns with short jump stitches such as alphabet characters when the thread trimming function is turned on. Ball point needles (golden colored) 90/14 are not recommended for embroidery, as they may bend or break, causing injury.

• It is recommended that a 90/14 needle should be used when embroidering on heavyweight fabrics or stabilizing products (for example, denim, puffy foam, etc.). A 75/11 needle may bend or break, which could result in injury.

■ Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations

The following table provides information concerning the appropriate thread and needle for various fabrics. Please refer to this table when selecting a thread and needle for the fabric you wish to use.

Fabric Thread Size of needle

Type Size

Medium weight fabric Broadcloth Cotton 60 - 80 75/11 - 90/14

Taffeta Synthetic mercerized 60 - 80

Flannel, Gabardine Silk or silk finished 50

Lightweight fabric Lawn, Batiste Cotton 60 - 80 65/9 - 75/11

Georgette Synthetic mercerized 60 - 80

Challis, Satin Silk 50

Heavyweight fabric Denim Cotton 30 - 50 90/14 - 100/16

Corduroy Synthetic mercerized 50

Tweed Silk 50

Stretch fabric Jersey Thread for knits 50 - 60 Ball point needle

(golden colored)

75/11 - 90/14

Tr i c o t

For top stitching Synthetic mercerized 30 90/14 - 100/16

Silk 30

Memo

For transparent nylon thread, always use needle 90/14 - 100/16. The same thread is usually used for the bobbin thread and upper threading.

CAUTION

• Be sure to follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table. Using an improper combination, especially a heavyweight fabric (i.e., denim) with a small needle (i.e., 65/9 - 75/11), may cause the needle to bend or break, and lead to injury. Also, the seam may be uneven, the fabric may pucker, or the machine may skip stitches.

Chapter 2

Sewing Basics

SEWING ..............................................................................................38

Sewing a Stitch ........................................................................................................38

■ Using the Foot Controller................................................................................................39

Sewing Reinforcement Stitches ...............................................................................40

Sewing Curves .........................................................................................................40

Changing Sewing Direction .....................................................................................40

Sewing Heavyweight Fabrics ...................................................................................41

■ If the Fabric does not Fit under the Presser Foot .............................................................41

■ If the Fabric does not Feed at the Beginning of Stitching.................................................41

Sewing Lightweight Fabrics .....................................................................................41

STITCH SETTINGS...............................................................................42

Setting the Stitch Width ..........................................................................................42

Setting the Stitch Length ......................................................................................... 42

Setting the Thread Tension ......................................................................................43

■ Proper Thread Tension ....................................................................................................43

■ Upper Thread is Too Tight...............................................................................................43

■ Upper Thread is Too Loose..............................................................................................43

USEFUL FUNCTIONS..........................................................................44

Automatic Reinforcement Stitching ........................................................................ 44

Automatic Thread Cutting .......................................................................................45

■ Using the Knee Lifter.......................................................................................................46

Locking the Screen .................................................................................................. 46

SEWING

Sewing a Stitch

Turn the main power to ON, and push the “Needle Position” button to raise the needle.

Press the key of the stitch you want to sew.

→ The symbol of the correct presser foot will be

displayed in the upper left corner of the LCD.

Install the presser foot (see “CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT” on page 32).

Set the fabric under the presser foot. Hold the fabric and thread ends in your left hand, and turn the handwheel to set the needle in the sewing start position.

Lower the presser foot.

* You do not have to pull up the bobbin thread.

Adjust the sewing speed with the speed control slide.

* You can use this slide to adjust sewing speed during

sewing.

a Slow b Fast

CAUTION

• To avoid injury, pay special attention to the needle while the machine is in operation. Keep your hands away from moving parts while the machine is in operation.

• Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing. Doing so may lead to injury.

• Do not use bent or broken needles. Doing so may lead to injury.

• Take care that the needle does not strike basting pins or other objects during sewing. Otherwise, the needle may break and cause injury.

• If stitches become bunched, lengthen the stitch length setting before continuing sewing. Otherwise, the needle may break and cause injury.

CAUTION

• Always use the correct presser foot. If the wrong presser foot is used, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, possibly resulting in injury.

Memo

The black button on the left side of presser foot “J” should be pressed only if the fabric does not feed or when sewing thick seams (see page 41). Normally, you can sew without pressing the black button.

SEWING

Sewing Basics

Press the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing.

* Guide the fabric lightly by hand.

Press the “Start/Stop” button again to stop sewing.

Press the “Thread Cutter” button to trim the threads.

→ The needle will return to the up position

automatically.

When the needle has stopped moving, raise the presser foot and remove the fabric.

■ Using the Foot Controller

You can also use the foot controller to start and stop sewing.

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the machine.

a Foot controller b Foot controller jack

CAUTION

• Do not press the “Thread Cutter” button after the threads have been cut. Doing so could tangle the thread or break the needle and damage the machine.

• Do not press the “Thread Cutter” button when there is no fabric set in the machine or during machine operation. The thread may tangle, possibly resulting in damage.

Note

• When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon thread, or other decorative threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine.

Memo

This machine is equipped with a bobbin thread sensor that warns you when the bobbin thread is almost empty. When the bobbin thread is nearly empty, the machine automatically stops. However, if the “Start/Stop” button is pressed, a few stitches can be sewn. If the warning displays, re-thread the machine immediately.

CAUTION

Do not allow fabric pieces and dust to collect in the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.

Memo

• When the foot controller is being used, the “Start/Stop” button has no effect on sewing.

• The foot controller cannot be used when embroidering.

• The foot controller can be used for sewing utility and decorative stitches when the embroidery unit is attached.

Note

Do not pull the retractable cord out beyond the red mark on the cord.

SEWING

Slowly depress the foot controller to start sewing.

Release the foot controller to stop the machine.

Sewing Reinforcement Stitches

Reverse/reinforcement stitches are generally necessary at the beginning and end of sewing. You can use the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse/reinforcement stitches manually (see page 3).

If the automatic reinforcement stitch is selected on the screen, reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing when the “Start/Stop” button is pressed. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) automatically at the end of sewing (see page 44).

Sewing Curves

Sew slowly while keeping the seam parallel with the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the curve.

Changing Sewing Direction

Stop the machine. Leave the needle in the fabric, and press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to raise the presser foot. Using the needle as a pivot, turn the fabric so that you can sew in the new direction. Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to lower the presser foot and start sewing.

When edge stitching a short stitch length close to the edge of the fabric, the presser foot may not cover enough fabric for proper feeding. Before you begin to sew, sew a basting thread at the corner point. When you change direction at the corner, start sewing as you pull the basting thread toward the back.

a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Memo

The speed set using the sewing speed controller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.

Memo

(For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Model S This foot controller can be used with model

NV5000

SEWING

Sewing Basics

Sewing Heavyweight Fabrics

The sewing machine can sew fabrics up to 6 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) thick. If the thickness of a seam causes sewing to occur at an angle, help guide the fabric by hand and sew on the downward slope.

■ If the Fabric does not Fit under the Presser Foot

If the presser foot is in the up position, and you are sewing heavyweight or multiple layers of fabric which do not fit easily under the presser foot, use the presser foot lever to raise the presser foot to its highest position. The fabric will now fit under the presser foot.

■ If the Fabric does not Feed at the Beginning of Stitching

If the fabric does not feed when starting to sew or when sewing thick seams, press the black button on the left side of presser foot “J”.

Raise the presser foot.

While keeping the black button on the left side of presser foot “J” pressed in, press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to lower the presser foot.

Release the button.

→ The presser foot remains level, enabling the fabric to

be fed.

Sewing Lightweight Fabrics

Place thin paper or tear away embroidery stabilizer under thin fabrics to make sewing easier. Gently tear off the paper or the stabilizer after sewing.

a Thin paper

CAUTION

• Do not forcefully push fabrics more than 6 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) thick through the sewing machine. This may cause the needle to break and cause injury.

Memo

You cannot use the presser foot lever after the presser foot has been raised using the “Presser Foot Lifter” button.

Memo

Once the trouble spot has been passed, the foot will return to its normal position.

STITCH SETTINGS

When you select a stitch, your machine automatically selects the appropriate stitch width, stitch length, and upper thread tension. However, if needed, you can change any of the individual settings.

Setting the Stitch Width

Follow the steps below when you want to change the zigzag stitch pattern width.

Example:

Press to narrow the zigzag stitch pattern width.

→ The value in the display gets smaller.

Press to widen the zigzag stitch pattern width.

→ The value in the display gets bigger.

Setting the Stitch Length

Follow the steps below when you want to change the stitch pattern length.

Example:

Press to shorten the stitch length.

→ The value in the display gets smaller.

Note

• Settings for some stitches cannot be changed (refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual).

• If you turn off the machine or select another stitch without saving stitch setting changes (see “Saving Your Stitch Settings” on page 50), the stitch settings will return to their default settings.

Memo

• For an alternate method of changing the stitch width using the speed controller, see page 70.

Memo

• Press to return the stitch width to the original setting.

STITCH SETTINGS

Sewing Basics

Press to lengthen the stitch length.

→ The value in the display gets bigger.

Setting the Thread Tension

You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used. Follow the steps below to make any necessary changes.

■ Proper Thread Tension

The upper and lower threads should cross near the center of the fabric. If the thread tension is not properly set, the seam may have a poor finish or the fabric may pucker.

a Wrong side b Surface c Upper thread d Bobbin thread

■ Upper Thread is Too Tight

If the bobbin thread can be seen on the surface of

the fabric, press .

a Bobbin thread b Upper thread c Surface d Locks appear on surface of fabric

■ Upper Thread is Too Loose

If the upper thread can be seen on the wrong side of

the fabric, press .

a Upper thread b Bobbin thread c Wrong side d Locks appear on wrong side of fabric

Memo

• Using the Image Key, you can check changes made to the stitch.

• Press to return the stitch length to the original setting.

CAUTION

If the stitches get bunched together, lengthen the stitch length and continue sewing. Do not continue sewing without lengthening the stitch length. Otherwise, the needle may break and cause injury.

Memo

• Press to return the thread tension to the original setting.

USEFUL FUNCTIONS

Automatic Reinforcement Stitching

After selecting a stitch pattern, turn on the automatic reinforcement stitching function before sewing, and the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, depending on the stitch pattern) at the beginning and end of sewing.

Select a stitch pattern.

Press to set the automatic

reinforcement stitching function.

→ The key will display as .

Set the fabric in the start position and start sewing.

a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)

→ The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches

(or reinforcement stitches) and then continue sewing.

Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button.

a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)

→ The machine will sew reverse stitches (or

reinforcement stitches) and stop.

Memo

Some stitches, such as buttonholes and bar tacks, require reinforcement stitches at the beginning of sewing. If you select one of these stitches, the machine will automatically turn on

this function (the key appears as when

the stitch is selected).

Memo

If you press the “Start/Stop” button to pause sewing, press it again to continue. The machine will not sew reverse reinforcement stitches again.

Memo

To turn off the automatic reinforcement stitch-

ing function, press again, so it appears

as .

USEFUL FUNCTIONS

Sewing Basics

Automatic Thread Cutting

After selecting a stitch pattern, turn on the automatic thread cutting function before sewing, and the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, depending on the stitch pattern) at the beginning and end of sewing, and trim the threads at the end of sewing. This function is useful when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.

Select a stitch pattern.

Press to set the automatic thread

cutting function.

→ The key will display as .

Set the fabric in the start position and start sewing.

a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)

→ The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches

(or reinforcement stitches) and then continue sewing.

Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitching” button.

a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)

→ The machine will sew reverse stitches (or

reinforcement stitches), then trim the thread.

Memo

This function is set automatically when sewing embroidery.

Memo

If you press the “Start/Stop” button to pause sewing, press the same button again to continue. The beginning reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be sewn again.

Memo

To turn off the automatic thread cutting func-

tion, press again, so it appears as .

USEFUL FUNCTIONS

■ Using the Knee Lifter

Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric.

Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the notches in the jack, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible.

Use your knee to move the knee lifter to the right in order to raise the presser foot. Release the knee lifter to lower the presser foot.

Locking the Screen

If the screen is locked before starting to sew, the various settings such as the stitch width and stitch length are locked and cannot be changed. This prevents screen settings from accidentally being changed or the machine from being stopped while large pieces of fabric or projects are being sewn. The screen can be locked when sewing utility stitches and character decorative stitches.

Select a stitch pattern.

If necessary, adjust any settings such as the stitch width and stitch length.

Press to lock the screen settings.

→ The key appears as .

Sew your project.

When you are finished sewing, press

again to unlock the screen settings.

Note

If the knee lifter is not pushed into the mounting slot as far as possible, it may come out during use.

CAUTION

Be sure to keep your knee away from the knee lifter during sewing. If the knee lifter is pushed during machine operation, the needle may break or the thread tension may loosen.

CAUTION

• If the screen is locked ( ), unlock the

screen by pressing . While the screen is locked, no other key can be operated.

• The settings are unlocked when the machine is

turned off and on.

Chapter 3

Utility Stitches

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES......................48

Selecting a Stitch .............................................................. 48

■ Stitch Selection Screens............................................................ 48

■ Using the Mirror Image Key .....................................................49

■ Using the Image Key................................................................. 49

Saving Your Stitch Settings ............................................... 50

■ Saving Settings.......................................................................... 50

■ Retrieving Saved Settings..........................................................51

Using the Sewing Type Selection Key ............................... 51

SEWING THE STITCHES.................................53

Straight Stitches ................................................................ 53

■ Changing the Needle Position (Left or Middle Needle Position

Stitches Only) .......................................................................... 55

■ Using the Straight Stitch Needle Plate and the Straight

Stitch Foot................................................................................55

■ Basting .....................................................................................56

Dart Seam......................................................................... 57

Gathering.......................................................................... 57

Flat Fell Seam.................................................................... 58

Pintuck.............................................................................. 59

Zigzag Stitches.................................................................. 60

■ Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch) .........................................60

■ Appliqué (Using a Zigzag Stitch)..............................................60

■ Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt).....................................................61

■ Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag Stitch) .....................................61

■ Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a Zigzag Stitch) ................... 61

Elastic Zigzag Stitches ....................................................... 62

■ Tape Attaching .........................................................................62

■ Overcasting..............................................................................62

Overcasting ...................................................................... 63

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G” ........................................63

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J”.......................................... 64

■ Overcasting Using the Side Cutter ...........................................65

■ When Sewing Straight Stitches While Using the Side Cutter.... 66

Quilting ............................................................................ 67

■ Piecing ..................................................................................... 68

■ Quilting....................................................................................68

■ Appliqué...................................................................................69

■ Quilting with Satin Stitches......................................................70

■ Free-motion Quilting................................................................71

Blind Hem Stitches ........................................................... 72

■ If the Needle does not Catch the Fold...................................... 73

■ If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold............................ 73

Appliqué ........................................................................... 73

■ Sewing Sharp Curves................................................................ 74

Shelltuck Stitches.............................................................. 74

Scallop Stitches ................................................................. 75

Top Stitching..................................................................... 75

Smocking Stitches ............................................................. 76

Fagoting ............................................................................ 76

Tape or Elastic Attaching .................................................. 77

Heirloom .......................................................................... 78

■ Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch) ................................................78

■ Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work)...............................................78

■ Hemstitching (3).......................................................................79

One-step Buttonholes ....................................................... 80

■ Sewing Stretch Fabrics..............................................................83

■ Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do not Fit into

the Button Holder Plate............................................................83

Four-step Buttonholes........................................................84

■ Darning.....................................................................................86

Bar Tacks ...........................................................................88

■ Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics........................................................89

Button Sewing ................................................................... 90

■ Attaching 4 Hole Buttons..........................................................91

■ Attaching a Shank to the Button ...............................................91

Eyelet.................................................................................92

Multi-directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and

Zigzag Stitch).....................................................................93

Zipper Insertion .................................................................94

■ Centered Zipper........................................................................94

■ Inserting a Side Zipper..............................................................95

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

Selecting a Stitch

■ Stitch Selection Screens

There are 5 categories of Utility Stitches. indicates that there is more than one stitch selection screen

for that category.

Straight/Overcasting/Quilting Stitches Decorative Stitches

Heirloom Stitches Buttonholes/Bar tacks Multi-directional Sewing

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Turn the main power to ON.

→ Either “1-01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “1-03 Straight

stitch (Middle)” is selected, depending on the setting selected in the setting screen.

Use to select the

category you want.

* Press to view this screen if another screen

displays.

* Press to view the next page.

a Preview of the selected stitch b Stitch selection screen

Press the key of the stitch you want to sew.

■ Using the Mirror Image Key

Depending on the type of utility stitch you select, you may be able to sew a horizontal mirror image of the stitch.

If is lit when you select a stitch, it will be

possible to make a mirror image of the stitch.

Press to create a horizontal mirror image of

the selected stitch.

The key will display as .

■ Using the Image Key

You can display an actual size image of the selected stitch. You can also check and change the colors of the image on the screen.

Press .

→ An image of the selected stitch is displayed.

Memo

For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Note

If is light gray after you select a stitch, you cannot create a horizontal mirror image of

the selected stitch (this is true of buttonholes, multi-directional sewing, and others).

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

Press to change the thread color of

the stitch on the screen.

* Press to display an enlarged image of the

stitch.

a Stitch screen

Press to go back to the original

screen.

Saving Your Stitch Settings

The settings for the zigzag stitch width, stitch length, thread tension, automatic thread cutting, automatic reinforcement stitching, etc., are preset in the machine for each stitch. However, if you have specific settings that you wish to reuse later for a stitch, you can change the settings so that they can be saved for that stitch. Five sets of settings can be saved for a single stitch.

■ Saving Settings

Select a stitch. (Example: )

Specify your preferred settings.

Memo

• The color changes every time you press

• The units of the stitch display area are in mm.

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Press .

→ The settings are saved and the original screen

automatically appears.

■ Retrieving Saved Settings

Select a stitch.

Press .

Press the numbered key of the settings to be retrieved.

* Press to return to the original screen

without retrieving settings.

a Numbered keys

Press .

→ The selected settings are retrieved, and the original

screen automatically appears.

Using the Sewing Type Selection Key

You can also select utility stitches using . Use this key when you are not sure which stitch to

use for your application, or to get advice about sewing particular stitches. For example, if you want to sew overcasting, but you do not know which stitch to use or how to sew the stitch, you can use this screen to get advice. We recommend that beginners use this method to select stitches.

Memo

If you try to save settings when there are already 5 sets of settings saved for a stitch, a message will appear. Follow the directions in the message to erase one set of currently saved settings and save the new settings.

Memo

When a stitch is selected, the last settings retrieved are displayed. The last settings retrieved are retained even if the machine was turned off or a different stitch was selected.

Memo

You can delete the selected settings by press-

ing .

SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES

Example: Displaying information about

overcasting

Press .

→ The advice screen is displayed.

Press .

* Press to return to the original screen.

→ The upper part of the screen displays a selection of

overcasting stitches with explanations.

Read the explanations and select the appropriate stitch.

* Press or to scroll the page.

→ The screen displays directions for sewing the

selected stitch.

Follow the directions to sew the stitch.

* Press to view the next page.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

SEWING THE STITCHES

Straight Stitches

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

Straight stitch (Left) General sewing, gather, pintuck,

etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

( J )

Straight stitch (Left) General sewing, gather, pintuck,

etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

( J )

Straight stitch (Middle)

General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

3.5

(1/8)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

( J )

Straight stitch (Middle)

General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

3.5

(1/8)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

( J )

Triple stretch stitch General sewing for

reinforcement and decorative topstitching

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.5 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

( J )

Stem stitch Reinforced stitching, sewing and

decorative applications

1.0

(1/16)

1.0 - 3.0

(1/16 - 1/8)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

( J )

Decorative stitch Decorative stitching, top

stitching

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

( J )

Basting stitch Basting

0.0 (0)

0 - 7.0

(0 - 1/4)

20.0

(3/4)

5.0 - 30.0

(3/16 - 1-3/

16)

a Left needle position b Middle needle position

a Reverse stitch b Reinforcement stitch

Memo

If the selected stitch has a double mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse stitches holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button.

If the selected stitch has a dot mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement stitches holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button (see page 40).

J J

SEWING THE STITCHES

Select a stitch.

Attach presser foot “J”.

Hold the thread tails and fabric with your left hand, and turn the handwheel with your right hand to insert the needle into the fabric.

a Sewing start position

Lower the presser foot, and hold the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew 3-4 stitches.

→ The machine sews reverse stitches (or reinforcement

stitches).

Press the “Start/Stop” button to sew forward.

a Reverse stitches

→ The machine will begin sewing slowly.

When sewing is completed, hold the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew 3-4 reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) at the end of the seam.

After sewing, press the “Thread Cutter” button to trim the threads.

■ Changing the Needle Position (Left or Middle Needle Position Stitches Only)

When you select left or middle needle position

stitches, you can use and in the stitch

width display to change the position of the needle. Match the distance from the right edge of the presser foot to the needle with the stitch width, then align the edge of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric during sewing for an attractive finish.

CAUTION

Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.

Memo

When the automatic thread cutting and automatic reinforcement stitch keys on the screen are selected, reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing when the “Start/Stop” button is pressed. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) and trim the thread automatically at the end of sewing.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

a Stitch width

Example: Left/Middle needle position stitches

■ Using the Straight Stitch Needle Plate and the Straight Stitch Foot

The straight stitch needle plate and the straight stitch foot can only be used for straight stitches (middle needle position stitches). Use the straight stitch needle plate and the straight stitch foot when sewing thin fabrics or when sewing small pieces which tend to sink into the hole of the regular needle plate during sewing. The straight stitch foot is perfect to reduce puckering on lightweight fabrics. The small opening on the foot provides support for the fabric as the needle travels through the fabric.

Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to raise the presser foot and turn the main power to OFF.

Remove the flat bed attachment or the embroidery unit if either are attached.

Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, and then slide it toward you.

a Needle plate cover

Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.

a Bobbin case

Use the screwdriver included with the machine to unscrew and remove the regular needle plate.

12.0 mm (approx.

1/2 inch)

8.5 mm

(approx.

11/32

inch)

6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)

5.0 mm

(approx. 3/

16 inch)

Memo

For a standard 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch) seam allowance, set the width to 0.0 mm on the screen. While sewing, align the edge of the fabric with the 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch) mark on the needle plate.

a 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch) b For stitches with a middle (center) needle position c For stitches with a left needle position d Left needle position on the needle plate <inch> e Left needle position on the needle plate <cm> f Middle (center) needle position on the bobbin

cover <inch>

g Left needle position on the needle plate cover

<inch>

CAUTION

Always use the straight stitch foot in combination with the straight stitch needle plate.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Set the straight stitch needle plate in place and use the screwdriver to tighten the plate.

Insert the bobbin case in its original position, and then attach the needle plate cover.

After reinstalling the needle plate cover, select any of the straight stitches.

Attach the straight stitch foot.

Start sewing.

* After sewing, make sure to remove the straight stitch

needle plate and the straight stitch foot, and reinstall the regular needle plate, the needle plate cover and the presser foot “J”.

■ Basting

Select and attach presser foot “J”.

Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reinforcement stitches, then continue sewing.

Sew while keeping the fabric straight.

End the basting with reinforcement stitches.

Note

Align the two screw holes on the needle plate with the two holes on the machine and screws in the needle plate.

Memo

When using the straight stitch needle plate, all straight stitches become middle needle position stitches. You cannot change the needle position using the width display.

CAUTION

• Selecting other stitches will cause an error message to be displayed.

• Be sure to turn the handwheel slowly in your direction before sewing and make sure that the needle is not contacting the straight stitch foot and straight stitch needle plate.

Memo

To prevent puckering on fine fabrics, use a fine needle, size 75/11, and a short stitch length. For heavier fabrics, use a heavier needle, size 90/14, and longer stitches.

Memo

If you do not want to use a reinforcement stitch at the beginning; you should lift the presser foot, rotate the handwheel, pull up the bobbin thread and pull a length of top and bobbin thread out from the rear of the machine.

You can set the stitch length between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm (approx. 1-3/16 inches)

a Between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm

(approx. 1-3/16 inches)

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Dart Seam

Select and attach presser foot “J”.

Sew a reverse stitch at the beginning of the dart and then sew from the wide end to the other end without stretching the fabric.

* If automatic reinforcement stitching is preset, a

reinforcement stitch will automatically be sewn at the beginning of sewing.

a Basting

Cut the thread at the end leaving 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches), and then tie both ends together.

* Do not sew a reverse stitch at the end.

Insert the ends of the thread into the dart with a needle.

Iron the dart to one side so that it is flat.

Gathering

Use on waists of skirts, sleeves of shirts, etc.

Select a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J”.

Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and the thread tension to approximately 2.0 (weaker tension).

* If you press after pressing , the

stitch length will be set automatically to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and the thread tension will be automatically set to 2.0.

Pull the bobbin and upper threads out by 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) (see page

23).

a Upper thread b Bobbin thread c About 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)

SEWING THE STITCHES

Sew two rows of straight stitches parallel to the seam line, then trim excess thread leaving 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).

a Seam line b 10 to 15 mm (approx. 3/8 inch to 9/16 inch) c About 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)

Pull the bobbin threads to obtain the desired amount of gather, then tie the threads.

Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

Sew on the seam line and remove the basting stitch.

Flat Fell Seam

Use for reinforcing seams and finishing edges neatly.

Select and attach presser foot “J”.

Sew the finish line, then cut half of the seam allowance from the side on which the flat fell seam will lie.

* When the automatic thread cutting and automatic

reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the thread automatically at the end of sewing.

a About 12 mm (approx. 1/2 inch) b Wrong side

Spread the fabric out along the finish line.

a Finish line b Wrong side

Lay both seam allowances on the side of the shorter seam (cut seam) and iron them.

a Wrong side

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Fold the longer seam allowance around the shorter one, and sew the edge of the fold.

a Wrong side

a Surface

Pintuck

Mark along the folds on the wrong side of the fabric.

a Wrong side

Turn the fabric and iron the folded parts only.

a Surface

Select and attach presser foot “I”.

Sew a straight stitch along the fold.

* When the automatic thread cutting and automatic

a Width for pintuck b Wrong side c Surface

Iron the folds in the same direction.

Finished flat fell seam

SEWING THE STITCHES

Zigzag Stitches

Zigzag stitches are useful for overcasting, appliqué, patchwork, and many other applications.

Select a stitch, and attach presser foot “J”.

If the stitch which you select has a double mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button.

If the stitch which you select has a dot mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button (see page 40).

Select a stitch.

Attach presser foot “J”.

■ Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch)

Sew the overcasting along the edge of the fabric while positioning the right-hand side needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric.

a Needle drop position

■ Appliqué (Using a Zigzag Stitch)

Attach the appliqué using a temporary spray adhesive or basting, then sew it.

* Sew a zigzag stitch while positioning the right-hand

side needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric.

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending.

Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

3.5

(1/8)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

( J )

Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending.

Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

3.5

(1/8)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

( J )

Zigzag stitch (right) Start from right needle position,

zigzag sew at left.

3.5

(1/8)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

1.4

(1/16)

0.3 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

( J )

Zigzag stitch (left) Start from left needle position,

zigzag sew at right.

3.5

(1/8)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

1.4

(1/16)

0.3 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

( J )

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

■ Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt)

Turn back the desired width of fabric and position it over the lower fabric, then sew so that the stitch bridges both pieces of fabric.

■ Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag Stitch)

Shorten the stitch length setting to obtain a fine stitch. Sew slowly, keeping the seams parallel with the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the curve.

■ Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a Zigzag Stitch)

Remove the bobbin cover from the machine (see page 22).

Thread the gimp thread through the hole in the cord guide bobbin cover from top to bottom. Position the thread in the notch at the back of the cord guide bobbin cover.

a Notch b Gimp thread

Snap the cord guide bobbin cover into place, making sure that the gimp thread can be fed freely.

* Make sure there are no restrictions when feeding the

thread.

Set the zigzag width from 2.0-2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch).

Attach presser foot “N”.

Position the fabric right side up on top of the cord and place the cord to the rear of the machine under the presser foot.

a Fabric (right side) b Gimp thread

Lower the presser foot and start sewing to make a decorative finish.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Elastic Zigzag Stitches

Use elastic zigzag stitches for tape attaching, overcasting, darning, or a wide variety of other uses.

Select a stitch.

Attach presser foot “J”.

■ Tape Attaching

Stretch the tape flat. While stretching the tape flat, sew the tape to the fabric.

a Tape

■ Overcasting

Use this stitch to sew overcasting on the edge of stretch fabrics. Sew the overcasting along the edge of the fabric while positioning the right-hand side needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric.

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

2 step elastic zigzag Overcasting (medium weight

and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic

5.0

(3/16)

1.5 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

1.0

(1/16)

0.2 - 4.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

( J )

2 step elastic zigzag Overcasting (medium weight

and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic

5.0

(3/16)

1.5 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

1.0

(1/16)

0.2 - 4.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

( J )

3 step elastic zigzag Overcasting (medium,

heavyweight and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic

5.0

(3/16)

1.5 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

1.0

(1/16)

0.2 - 4.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

( J )

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Overcasting

Use for the beginning and end of seams in skirts or trousers, and the beginning and end of all cuttings. Use presser foot “G”, presser foot “J”, or the side cutter attachment depending on the kind of overcasting stitch you select.

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G”

Select a stitch and attach presser foot “G”.

Lower the presser foot so that the presser foot guide is set flush against the edge of the fabric.

Sew along the presser foot guide.

a Guide

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of light and medium

weight fabrics

3.5

(1/8)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of heavyweight

fabric

5.0

(3/16)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of medium,

heavyweight and easily frayable fabrics or decorative stitching.

5.0

(3/16)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

CAUTION

• After the stitch width is adjusted, turn the handwheel toward you by hand and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may break and cause injury.

a The needle should not touch

• If the presser foot is raised to its highest level, the needle may strike the presser foot.

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J”

Select a stitch and attach presser foot “J”.

Sew with the needle dropping slightly off the edge of the fabric.

a Needle drop position

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

Overcasting stitch Reinforced seaming of stretch

fabric

5.0

(3/16)

0.0 - 7.0

(0 - 9/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.5 - 4.0

(1/32 - 3/16)

( J )

Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of medium stretch

fabric and heavyweight fabric, decorative stitching

5.0

(3/16)

0.0 - 7.0

(0 - 9/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.5 - 4.0

(1/32 - 3/16)

( J )

Overcasting stitch Reinforcement of stretch fabric

or decorative stitching

4.0

(3/16)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

4.0

(3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

( J )

Overcasting stitch Stretch knit seam

5.0

(3/16)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

4.0

(3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

Single diamond overcast

Reinforcement and seaming stretch fabric

6.0

(15/

64)

1.0 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

3.0

(1/8)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

( J )

Single diamond overcast

Reinforcement of stretch fabric

6.0

(15/

64)

1.0 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

1.8

(1/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

( J )

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

■ Overcasting Using the Side Cutter

By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabric.

Follow the steps on page 32 to remove the presser foot.

Position the fork on the side cutter’s operating lever onto the needle clamp screw.

a Needle clamp screw b Operating lever

Position the side cutter so that the side cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then lower the presser foot.

a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin

→ The side cutter is attached.

CAUTION

• Make sure to only select one of the stitches listed below. Using another stitch may cause the needle to hit the presser foot and break, possibly causing injury.

Memo

Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the needle using the “Automatic Threading” button.

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

With side cutter Straight stitch while cutting

fabrics

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 2.5

(0 - 3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

With side cutter Zigzag stitch while cutting fabrics

3.5

(1/8)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

1.4

(1/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting

fabrics

3.5

(1/8)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting

fabrics

5.0

(3/16)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting

fabrics

5.0

(3/16)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

Memo

Make sure that the fork of the operating lever is set onto the needle screw firmly.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Select a stitch.

Make a cut of approximately 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch) in the fabric.

a 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch)

Position the fabric so that the right side of the cut is on top of the guide plate and the left side of the cut is underneath the presser foot.

a Guide plate (lower knife) b Presser foot

Thread the needle manually and pull out a long section of the upper thread. Pass it below the presser foot and pull it out in the fabric feed direction.

a Presser foot b Upper thread

Start sewing.

→ A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn.

■ When Sewing Straight Stitches While Using the Side Cutter

The seam margin should be approximately 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch).

a Seam margin

Note

If the width has been adjusted, turn the handwheel by hand to check that the needle does not touch the side cutter. If the needle touches the side cutter, it might cause the needle to break.

Memo

• The fabric will not be cut if the whole fabric is simply spread out underneath the presser foot guide plate. Set the fabric as explained in step

f from the previous section, and

then start sewing.

• One layer of 13 oz. denim can be cut.

• Clean the side cutter after use to avoid having dust and scraps of thread build up on it.

• Add a small amount of oil as required to the cutting edge of the cutter.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Quilting

You can make beautiful quilts quickly and easily with this machine. When making a quilt, you will find it convenient to use the knee lifter and foot controller to free your hands for other tasks (see “Using the Foot Controller” on page 39 and /or see “Using the Knee Lifter” on page 46).

If there is a “P” or “Q” at the bottom of the key display, the indicated stitch is intended for quilting.

Pattern Name of pattern

Typ e of

presser

foot

Use

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

possibility

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

Piecing stitch (Right) Piecework/patchwork

6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) right seam allowance

5.5

(7/32)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

2.0

(1/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

Piecing stitch (Middle)

Piecework/patchwork

— —

2.0

(1/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

Piecing stitch (Left) Piecework/patchwork

6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) left seam allowance

1.5

(1/16)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

2.0

(1/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

Hand-look quilting Quilting stitch made to look like

hand quilting stitch

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

Quilting appliqué zigzag stitch

Zigzag stitch for quilting and sewing on appliqué quilt pieces

3.5

(1/8)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

Quilting appliqué stitch

Quilting stitch for invisible appliqué or attaching binding

1.5

(1/16)

0.5 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.8

(1/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

Quilting stippling Background quilting

7.0

(1/4)

1.0 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

1.6

(1/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Piecing

Sewing two pieces of fabric together is called piecing. When cutting pieces for quilt blocks, make sure the seam allowance is 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch).

Select or and attach presser foot

“J”.

Align the edge of the fabric with the edge of the presser foot, and start sewing.

* To sew a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) seam allowance

along the left edge of the presser foot with

selected, the width should be set to 5.5 mm (approx. 7/32 inch).

a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)

* To sew a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) seam allowance

along the left edge of the presser foot with

selected, the width should be set to 1.5 mm (approx. 1/32 inch).

a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)

* To change the needle position, use or in

the width display.

■ Quilting

Sewing together the quilt top, batting, and backing is called quilting. You can sew the quilt with the walking foot to keep the quilt top, batting, and backing from sliding. The walking foot has a set of feed dogs that move together with the feed dogs in the needle plate during sewing. For straight line quilting, use the walking foot and the straight stitch needle plate. Always select a straight stitch (middle needle position) when using the straight stitch needle plate.

Select , or .

Attach the walking foot (see page 33).

Place one hand on each side of the presser foot to hold the fabric secure while sewing.

Memo

Using a straight stitch (middle needle position) makes it easier to sew smoothly (see page

53).

Memo

• Sew at slow to medium speed.

• Do not sew in reverse or use stitches that require side ways or reverse feeding. Always check to be sure that your quilting surface is securely basted before beginning to sew. Specialized machine quilt needles and threads are also available for machine quilting.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

■ Appliqué

Trace the pattern onto the appliqué fabric and then cut around it, leaving a 3 to 5 mm (approx. 1/8 to 3/16 inch) seam allowance.

a Seam allowance: 3 to 5 mm

(approx. 1/8 to 3/16 inch)

Place a piece of thick paper cut to the finished size of the appliqué design onto the fabric, and then fold over the seam margin using an iron. Clip curves when necessary.

Turn the appliqué over, and attach the thick paper with basting pins or a basting stitch.

Select and attach presser foot “J”.

Use the quilting appliqué stitch to attach the appliqué. Sew around the edge while dropping the needle as close to the edge as possible.

a Needle drop position

You can use the appliqué technique to attach appliqué designs like the three pictured below.

CAUTION

• Be careful that the needle does not strike a basting pin during sewing. Striking a pin can cause the needle to break, resulting in injury.

a Dresden plate b Stained glass c Sunbonnet sue

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Quilting with Satin Stitches

Use the foot controller to sew with satin stitches. If you set the speed control slide to control the stitch width, you can make subtle changes in the stitch width during sewing.

Attach the foot controller (see page 39).

Select and attach presser foot “J”.

Press in the length display to shorten

the stitch length.

Press to use the speed control slide

to control the stitch width.

Set the width control to “ON”.

Press .

→ The display will return to the original screen.

Start sewing

* You can adjust the stitch width during sewing by

moving the sewing speed controller. Slide the lever to the left, and the stitch width becomes narrower. Slide it to the right, the stitch width becomes wider. The size of the width changes equally on both sides of the middle needle position.

a narrower b wider

Memo

The setting will vary according to the kind of fabric and the thickness of the thread, but a length of 0.3 to 0.5 mm (approx. 1/64 to 1/32 inch) is best for satin stitches.

Memo

You can use the speed control slide to adjust the stitch width. Use the foot controller to adjust the sewing speed.

Rough sketch (line)

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

■ Free-motion Quilting

With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position switch) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. We recommend attaching the foot controller and sewing at a consistent speed.

Select .

Remove the presser foot holder (see page

33).

Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side of the presser bar.

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

a Pin on quilting foot b Presser foot holder screw c Needle clamp screw

Lower the feed dog position switch, located

at the rear of the base of the machine, to

a Rear of machine b Feed dog position switch

(as seen from the rear of the machine)

c Up d Down

Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and then move the fabric at a regular pace in order to sew uniform stitches roughly

2.0-2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch) in length.

a Stitch

→ Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning

and end of sewing.

After sewing is finished, raise the feed dog

position switch to to raise the feed

dogs.

Memo

In order to sew a balanced stitch, it may be necessary to lower the upper thread tension.

Memo

The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp screw.

CAUTION

• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

Memo

Normally, the feed dog position switch is in the up position.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Blind Hem Stitches

Select from these stitches to sew the hems or cuffs of dresses, blouses, pants, or skirts.

Select a stitch.

Place the fabric wrong side up, and fold and baste the fabric.

a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) b Basting stitches

Fold the fabric again.

a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) b Wrong side of fabric c Basting stitches

Attach blind hem stitch foot “R”, and lower the presser foot. Position the fabric so the folded edge touches the guide of the presser foot.

a Guide b Fold

Sew the fabric, keeping the folded edge in contact with the presser foot.

a Needle position

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

Blind hem stitch Hemming woven fabrics

0.0 (0)

+3.0 - -3.0

(+1/8 - -1/8)

2.0

(1/16)

1.0 - 3.5

(1/16 - 1/8)

Blind hem stitch stretch

Hemming stretch fabric

0.0 (0)

+3.0 - -3.0

(+1/8 - -1/8)

2.0

(1/16)

1.0 - 3.5

(1/16 - 1/8)

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Remove the basting stitches and turn the fabric over.

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

■ If the Needle does not Catch the Fold

Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches

the fold by pressing in the width display.

■ If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold

Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches

the fold by pressing in the width display.

Appliqué

Use a temporary spray adhesive, fabric glue or a basting stitch to attach the appliqué to the fabric.

* This will keep the fabric from moving during

sewing.

a Appliqué b Fabric glue

Select or .

* Adjust the stitch length and width to correspond to

the appliqué shape, size, and quality of material (see page 42).

Attach presser foot “J”. Check that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the appliqué, then start sewing.

a Appliqué material

a Needle drop position

Memo

Blind hem stitches cannot be sewn if the left needle drop point does not catch the fold. If the needle catches too much of the fold, the fabric cannot be unfolded and the seam appearing on the right side of the fabric will be very large, leaving an unattractive finish. If you experience either of these cases, follow the instructions below to solve the problem.

a b

Memo

For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Sewing Sharp Curves

Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric outside the appliqué. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric a little bit at a time while sewing for an attractive finish to the seam.

Shelltuck Stitches

Shelltuck stitches give an attractive appearance to shells along the curve of a collar. This stitch pattern can be used for edging the neckline or sleeves of dresses and blouses.

Select .

Increase the upper thread tension for an attractive scallop finish to the shelltuck stitches (see page 43).

To make rows of shell tuck stitches, fold the fabric in half along the bias.

Attach presser foot “J”. Set the needle drop point slightly off the edge of the fabric, and start sewing.

a Needle drop position

Unfold the fabric, and iron the tucks to one side.

Memo

Placing a lightweight tear away stabilizer beneath the stitching area will improve the stitch placement along the edge of the appliqué fabric.

Memo

For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Memo

If the upper thread tension is too weak, the shelltuck stitches will not scallop.

Memo

Use a thin fabric.

Memo

To make shell tucks at the edge of a collar or neckline, follow the pattern’s instructions and then use this stitch to make a decorative finish on the collar or neckline.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Scallop Stitches

This wave-shaped running stitch is called the scallop stitch. Use this stitch to decorate the edges of blouse collars and handkerchiefs or use it as a hem accent.

Select .

Attach presser foot “N”. Sew scallop stitches along the edge of the fabric.

* Do not sew directly on the edge of the fabric.

Trim along the seam, making sure not to cut the stitches.

Top Stitching

For a decorative look called “Crazy Quilting”, the following stitches can be sewn on top of a pressed seam allowance.

Select a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J”.

With the right sides facing each other, sew two pieces of fabric together, and then press open the seam allowance.

a Straight stitch b Seam margins c 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) d Wrong side

Select a stitch for top stitching.

Place the fabric right side up in the machine, and center the presser foot over the seam when sewing.

a Right side of fabric

Memo

A temporary spray adhesive may be necessary for lightweight fabrics. Test sew the fabric before sewing a project.

Memo

For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Memo

Use a seam sealant to secure the edges of the scallop stitches.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Smocking Stitches

Use smocking stitches for decorative sewing on clothes, etc.

Select a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J”.

Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and loosen the upper thread tension to approximately 2.0 (See pages 42 through 43).

Pull the bobbin and upper threads out by 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).

Sew the seams, leaving approximately 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) between the seams, then trim excess thread, leaving 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).

a Approximately 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch)

Pull the bobbin threads to obtain the desired amount of gather, and then smooth the gathers by ironing them.

Select or .

Sew the spaces between the straight seams.

Pull out the straight stitch threads.

Fagoting

When there is a space between two fabrics with thread sewn over the space to join the fabrics together, it is called fagoting. Use this stitch when sewing blouses or children’s clothes.

Baste two pieces of fabric onto thin paper, leaving a space of 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) between the fabrics.

a 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) b Paper c Basting stitches

Select or .

Memo

For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Memo

For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Attach presser foot “J”. Align the center of the presser foot with the middle of the space between the fabrics and begin sewing.

a Basting stitches

When sewing is finished, gently tear the paper away.

Tape or Elastic Attaching

Select a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J”.

Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch), and loosen the upper thread tension to 2.0 (See pages 42 through 43).

Sew two rows of straight stitches on the right side of the fabric, then pull the bobbin thread to create the necessary gather.

Place the tape over the gather, and hold it in place with basting pins.

a Tape

Select or .

Sew over the tape (or elastic).

Pull out the straight stitch threads.

Memo

Use a thick thread.

Memo

Be sure that neither automatic reinforcement

nor automatic thread cutting is

selected.

Memo

Before sewing the straight stitch, rotate the handwheel and pull up the bobbin thread. Holding the top and bobbin thread, pull a length of thread out from the rear of the machine. (Be sure that the presser foot is raised.)

Memo

For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

CAUTION

Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Heirloom

■ Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch)

Use for sewing tablecloths, decorative hems, and decorative stitching on shirt fronts.

Insert a type 130/705H, size 100/16 Wing needle.

Select a stitch and attach presser foot “N”.

* Select any stitch between 3-01 and 3-25.

Start sewing.

Example: Illustration of finished product

■ Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work)

Pull out several threads from one area on a piece of fabric to open the area.

* Pull out 5 or 6 threads to leave a 3 mm

(approx. 1/8 inch) area open.

Select .

Attach presser foot “N”. With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew one edge of the open area.

Memo

Use a light to medium weight homespun fabric with a little stiffness.

CAUTION

• The “Automatic Threading” button cannot be used. Thread the wing needle by hand, from front to back. Using the “Automatic Threading” button may result in damage to the machine.

• A more attractive finish can be obtained if you use a “130/705H Wing” needle when sewing these patterns. If using a wing needle and the stitch width has been set manually, check that the needle will not touch the presser foot by carefully rotating the handwheel before starting sewing.

Memo

• For details on each stitch, refer to the

“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Memo

Loosely woven fabrics work best for this.

Memo

For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Press to create a mirror image of the

stitch.

Sew the opposite side to keep the stitch symmetrical.

■ Hemstitching (3)

Pull out several threads from both sides of the 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) area which are not yet open.

* Pull out four threads, leave five threads, and then

pull out four threads. The width of five threads is approximately 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less.

a Approx. 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less b Four threads (pull out) c Five threads (leave)

Select .

Sew the decorative stitch in the center of the five threads created above.

Memo

For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Memo

A wing needle can be used for Hemstitching (3).

SEWING THE STITCHES

One-step Buttonholes

With one-step buttonholes, you can make buttonholes appropriate to the size of your button.

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

Narrow rounded buttonhole

Buttonhole on light to medium weight fabrics

5.0

(3/16)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Wide round ended buttonhole

Buttonholes with extra space for larger buttons

5.5

(7/32)

3.5 - 5.5

(1/8 - 7/32)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Tapered round ended buttonhole

Reinforced waist tapered buttonholes

5.0

(3/16)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Round ended buttonhole

Buttonholes with vertical bar tack in heavyweight fabrics

5.0

(3/16)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Round ended buttonhole

Buttonholes with bar tack

5.0

(3/16)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Round double ended buttonhole

Buttonholes for fine, medium to heavyweight fabrics

5.0

(3/16)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Narrow squared buttonhole

Buttonholes for light to medium weight fabrics

5.0

(3/16)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Wide squared buttonhole

Buttonholes with extra space for larger decorative buttons

5.5

(7/32)

3.5 - 5.5

(1/8 - 7/32)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/

64 - 1/16)

Squared buttonhole Hea

vy-duty buttonholes with

vertical bar tacks

5.0

(7/32)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Stretch buttonhole Buttonholes for stretch or woven

fabrics

6.0

(15/

64)

3.0 - 6.0

(1/8 - 15/64)

1.0

(1/16)

0.5 - 2.0

(1/32 - 1/16)

Heirloom buttonhole Buttonholes for heirloom and

stretch fabrics

6.0

(15/

64)

3.0 - 6.0

(1/8 - 15/64)

1.5

(1/16)

1.0 - 3.0

(1/1 - 1/8)

Bound buttonhole The first step in making bound

buttonholes

5.0

(3/16)

0.0 - 6.0

(0 - 15/64)

2.0

(1/16)

0.2 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

Keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes in heavyweight or

thick fabrics for larger flat buttons

7.0

(1/4)

3.0 - 7.0

(1/8 - 1/4)

0.5

(1/32)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Tapered keyhole buttonhole

Buttonholes in medium to heavy weight fabrics for larger flat buttons

7.0

(1/4)

3.0 - 7.0

(1/8 - 1/4)

0.5

(1/32)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes with vertical bar

tack for reinforcement in heavyweight or thick fabrics

7.0

(1/4)

3.0 - 7.0

(1/8 - 1/4)

0.5

(1/32)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

One-step buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

a Reinforcement stitching

Select a buttonhole stitch, and attach buttonhole foot “A”.

Mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric.

Pull out the button holder plate on the presser foot, and insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole. Then tighten the button holder plate around the button.

a Button holder plate

Memo

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).

Memo

The size of the buttonhole is decided by the button holder plate holding the button.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Align the presser foot with the mark on the fabric, and lower the presser foot.

a Mark on the fabric b Marks on the presser foot

Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole lever

a Metal bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread, and then start sewing.

* Feed the fabric carefully by hand while the

buttonhole is sewn.

→ Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then stops.

Insert a pin along the inside of one of the bar tacks, and then insert the seam ripper into the center of the buttonhole and cut towards the pin.

a Basting pin b Seam ripper

Note

• Pass the thread underneath the presser

foot.

• Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole

foot backward as far as possible as shown in the illustration, making sure that there is no gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”. If the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as possible, the buttonhole will not be sewn at the correct size.

Memo

If automatic thread cutting is turned on before you start sewing, both threads are automatically cut after the reinforcement stitches are sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, because it is too thick), increase the stitch length setting.

CAUTION

When using the seam ripper to open the buttonhole, do not put your hand or finger in the path of the ripper. The ripper may slip and cause injury.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

■ Sewing Stretch Fabrics

When sewing on stretch fabric with or ,

sew the buttonhole stitches over a gimp thread.

Hook the gimp thread onto the back of presser foot “A”. Insert the ends into the grooves at the front of the presser foot, and then temporarily tie them there.

a Upper thread

Lower the presser foot and start sewing.

Once sewing is completed, gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack, and trim off any excess.

■ Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do not Fit into the Button Holder Plate

Use the markings on the presser foot scale to set the size of the buttonhole. One mark on the presser foot scale equals 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch). Add the button diameter and thickness together, and then set the plate at the calculated value.

a Presser foot scale b Button holder plate c Completed measurement of diameter + thickness d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Memo

For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole. Then insert a pin along the inside of one of the bar tacks, insert a seam ripper into the hole made with the eyelet punch, and cut towards the pin.

a Eyelet punch b Basting pin

Memo

Set the width of the satin stitches to the width of the gimp thread, and set the buttonhole width to be 2-3 times the width of the gimp thread.

Memo

After using the seam ripper to cut open the threads over the buttonhole, trim off the threads.

Memo

For example, for a button with a diameter of 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch), the scale should be set at 25 mm (approx. 1 inch).

a 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) b 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch)

SEWING THE STITCHES

Four-step Buttonholes

You can sew 4-step buttonholes using the following 4 stitches together. You can sew any desired length for the buttonhole when using 4-step buttonholes. 4-step buttonholes are a good option when attaching oversize buttons.

Four-step buttonholes are sewn as shown below.

Mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric.

Attach monogramming foot “N”, and select

stitch to sew the left side of the

buttonhole.

Note

When changing the stitch settings for the left side of the buttonhole, make sure that all setting should be changed to match.

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

4 step buttonhole 1 Left side of 4 step buttonhole

5.0

(7/32)

1.5 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

4 step buttonhole 2 Bar tack of 4 step buttonhole

5.0

(7/32)

1.5 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

4 step buttonhole 3 Right side of 4 step buttonhole

5.0

(7/32)

1.5 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

4 step buttonhole 4 Bar tack of 4 step buttonhole

5.0

(7/32)

1.5 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

0.4

(1/64)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Press the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing.

Sew the desired length for the buttonhole and press the “Start/Stop” button again.

Select stitch to sew the bar tack and

press the “Start/Stop” button.

→ The machine will automatically stop after sewing

the bar tack.

Select stitch to sew the right side of the

buttonhole, and press the “Start/Stop” button to begin sewing.

Sew the right side of the buttonhole and press the “Start/Stop” button again.

* Sew the right side of the buttonhole the same length

as the left.

Select stitch to sew the bar tack and

then press the “Start/Stop” button.

→ The machine will automatically sew off the bar tack

tie and stop when the bar tack is complete.

Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric.

Refer to page 82 to open the buttonhole.

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Darning

Use darning stitches for mending and other applications.

Darning is performed by sewing from the front of the presser foot to the back as shown below.

a Reinforcement stitches

Select a stitch, and attach buttonhole foot “A”.

Set the scale to the desired length of the darning.

a Presser foot scale b Completed length measurement c Width 7 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Check that the needle drops at the desired position and lower the presser foot, making sure the upper thread passes underneath the buttonhole foot.

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

Darning Darning of medium weight fabric

7.0

(1/4)

2.5 - 7.0

(3/32 - 1/4)

2.0

(1/16)

0.4 - 2.5

(1/64 - 1/16)

Darning Darning of heavyweight fabric

7.0

(1/4)

2.5 - 7.0

(3/32 - 1/4)

2.0

(1/16)

0.4 - 2.5

(1/64 - 1/16)

Memo

The maximum length for darning is 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches).

Note

• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.

• Set the presser foot so that there is no gap behind the section marked with an “A” (the shaded area in the illustration below). If there is a gap, the size of the darning will not be correct.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Utility Stitches

Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole lever

a Metal bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread, and then press the “Start/Stop” button to start the machine.

→ Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then stops.

Memo

SEWING THE STITCHES

Bar Tacks

Use bar tacks to reinforce areas that will be subject to strain, such as pocket corners.

Select .

Attach buttonhole foot “A” and set the scale to the length of the bar tack you wish to sew.

a Presser foot scale b Completed length measurement c 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Set the fabric so that the pocket moves towards you during sewing.

Check the first needle drop point and lower the presser foot.

a 2 mm (approx. 1/16 inch)

Stitch Stitch name

Presser

foot

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

Twin

needle

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

Bar tack Reinforcement at opening of

pocket, etc.

2.0

(1/16)

1.0 - 3.0

(1/16 - 1/8)

0.4

(1/64)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Memo

Bar tacks can be between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches). Bar tacks are usually between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch).

Note

• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.

• Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole foot backward as far as possible as shown in the illustration, making sure that there is no gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”. If the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as possible, the bar tack will not be sewn to the correct size.

Brother Isodore„, Innov-í, s 5000, 882-S96 Operation Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual