2 Turn the pulley until the needle bar clamp 8 is raised
fasten the needle bar
lower
e.
3 Install face plate 8 to the machine body.
(Install stopper spring
cranky.)
4 Install needle mechanism cover 8
take care
5 Install needle thread take-up supporter 0
6 Install needle thread guide (A)
7 Install needle thread take-up
take-up supporter
• Normally, it should be fastened in the center
adjustable range.
Lower its position
sion.
Raise its position to decrease the needle thread
sion.
not
make any clearance.
0 at a height where the needle clamp 0 is barely hidden in needle bar bushing
..
0 .
to
increase the needle thread ten-
ADJUSTMENT
at the same time, and adjust it when face plate cover 8 is closed without
to
the machine body firmly putting
to
needle bar clamp
0)
to
face plate
f.D)
to needle thread
of
8.
its
ten-
PROCEDURES
to
the highest position, and then temporarily
of
Q'ty
screw
face plate
8.
of
CD
@)
@
lightly, then
~
(B571)
Q'ty
of
3 (B581)
screw
4
7
I Safety Stitch I Install chain stitch thread guide m
face plate
• Normally, it should be fastened in the center
adjustable range.
Raise its position
around the looper.
Also raise its position to increase the needle thread
tension.
Lower its position to decrease the needle thread tension.
CD.
if
the needle thread winds itself
of
to
its
-16-
Procedures
Q'ty
screw
of
8 Insert needles all the way into needle clamp
tighten screws.
9 Install needle plate
10 Check part ®
whether the machine
use (H).
11
Standard needle for adjustment
• In case
• In case
Ill
The below items
taken simultaneously.
12 In case
specifications, adjust the distance between the needle
point and the
the needle
high-lift specifications must be adjusted
of
of
the
of
the
of
sewing machines made
is
up
11.5 mm between them.
~
.
on
the
over looper driving lever and see
is
for standard use (S)
is
as
follows.
twin-needle, use the left needle.
safety stitch, use the hemming needle.
of
f)
and \Safety Stitch\ should be
top
of
needle plate
highest. The sewing machines
to
to
or
the
11
mm
to
a distance
0 and
high-lift
standard
when
of
the
2
I Safety
Stitch
I Turn
13 In case
with screw.
In case
bar clamp with screw.
In case
should be in the center
needle bar clamp with screw.
of
the
of
the twin-needle, temporarily fasten needle
of
the
the
slightly into needle plate and adjust it
so
needles will be in the center
plate slot,
single needle, tighten needle
safety stitch; after make sure needle
pulley slowly, lower needle
of
needle
by
turning needle bar.
bar
clamp
of
needle plate slot, tighten
Safety stitch (B581)
-17-
~
UNDER LOOPER MECHANISM
CD
Procedures
I Remove needles and needle plate.
0
on
under
is
under
looper
bottom,
in
2 Temporarily fasten under looper holder
looper lever shaft
3 Insert under looper 0
holder
4 Measure under looper 8 tilt
adjust it until the measurement difference
range
with screw (D.
5 Install the standard needle for adjustment into needle
clamp.
O.
of 1 to
8 .
all
1.5 mm, and
the way into
at
its point and
then
fasten under looper 8
the
Q'ty
screw
of
Scale
Ill The below items
simultaneously.
6 In case
specifications, adjust the distance between the under
looper point and the needle center to 4.5
under looper
machine
to
positioning)
of
of
the high-lift specifications must be adjusted
a distance
I Safety Stitch I In case
7 With the point
of
needle, make an adjustment
under looper will push needle 0.01
slightly contact needle) in the upward travel
However,
adjusted to
(Longitudinal positioning)
* 0.05
in case
touch
to
0.07mm
for chemical fabrics.
of
8 and
sewing machines made to the standard
is
at
the left most position. The sewing
of
2.2mm
of
distance
In case
distance
is
4.7mm.
of
is
2.2mm.
of
under looper in line with the center
of
sewing for thick materials, must be
about 0
for
cotton
fj
should be taken
mm
when the
between them. (Sidewise
standard specifications,
high-lift specifications,
so
that
the point
"'0.05mm
of
needle.
to
0.05 mm between them.
fabrics; 0.08 to O.l·mm
that
that
of
{i.e.,
I Twin Needles I Iqstall the right needle into needle clamp,
loosen screw for needle bar clamp,
the needle bar until the under looper
both
depth
needles
or
then
point hits
the same
deeper, and
needle bar clamp. Also check the height
of
needle bar at the same time.
(See the figure at right.) -
by
approximately
the right needle slightly
retighten screw for
turn
slightly contact needle
18-
Procedures
8 Turn the pulley until under looper to the left mostly,
and then temporarily fasten movable needle guard
to under looper holder
9 Match the under looper point with the needle center
on the needle's upward travel, move movable needle
guard
e until it contacts needle, adjust the clearance
between the under looper point and needle to
0.05mm, and fasten movable needle guard
* 0.02 to 0.05mm for cotton fabrics; 0
for chemical fabrics.
131
OVER
LOOPER
0.
MECHANISM
8.
to
0.03mm
0 to
e
Q'ty
screw
of
2
Procedures
1 Fit over looper holder guide assembly
looper lever shaft
2 Temporarily fasten over looper holder guide assembly
3
Move
the over looper driving lever
driving lever
(Tum the pulley,
4 Insert over looper • all the way into over looper holder 8 , and temporarily fasten it.
(Tum the pulley in order
5 Install needle plate. 2
Select the correct distance A and B from the table below according to your machine specifications,
6
make an adjustment by moving the over looper holder guide assembly
A measurement),
then fasten them securely.
e at the same time.
•
is
in alignment with over looper lever shaft e' and then temporarily fasten it.
make sure that the machine smoothly.)
to
make sure that the machine runs smoothly. )
by
moving over looper driving lever
0 onto flame e and over looper driving lever 8 onto over
0.
f}
up
or
down until there
f}
to up or down (decide B measurement), and
is
the least resistance
0
to
the right or left, (decide
so
over looper
Q'ty
* When changing your machine from the standard specifications to the high-lift specifications, replace
over looper and over looper holder assembly, and make an adjustment.
e
~
A
B
Standard
7.2 8.2
5.6
Single needle
High-lift
5.6
Twin needles
(four threads)
Standard High-lift
7.2
5.6
8.2 7.2
5.6 5.6
Twin needles
(mock safety)
Standard
High-lift
8.2 7.2
5.6 5
Standard High-lift
(Unit: mm)
Safety stitch
8.2
5
of
screw
3
~
.
-19-
Procedures
~
Meeting
I
Single
Twin
needles (mock safety) I
I
7
Remove
8
Make
«;),
the point
looper about
point
B A
needle (two threads) I
needle plate.
sure
that, when
0.1
over
looper
of
over looper
mm
below its projected part.
Over
spreader
able. Its meeting distance
that
of
Replace
stitch over looper.
CD
will
pass
fj
for two threads
over
looper.
over
looper with mock safety
meets under looper
clear
of
under
is
Q'ty
A:
Distance between over looper point and needle
when over looper point
taneously.
Loosen screws for lower knife holder guide
lower the tip
out
e.
just
(but
not
on
of
lower knife holder guide
8.
8.
tight enough to keep it from
securely).
(t
on the lower knife
needle plate support bracket
so
0
on
needle
8,
fit lower
0,
0,
raise
lower knife
on
and
8.
or
8 will be longitudinally equi-distant in the needle plate
slot for lower knife, and temporarily fasten it.
or
Raise
is
securely.
lower lower knife
level with the needle plate
(t
until
the
top
of
top,
and fasten lower knife
lower knife
Q'ty
screw
of
"
2
2
~
2
2
1
"
Top
Top
Needle plate
of
lower knife
oflower
knife
8 Remove needle.
9 Turn the pulley until needle bar is raised
position, fit
10 Temporarily fasten upper knife
••
11
Temporarily fasten upper knife holder
knife driving arm
(Toutch upper knife
12 Loosen screw and
so
as
temporarily tighten it.
13
Lower upper knife
upper knife will engage lower knife
~
14 When upper and lower knives are engaged, adjust
angle
of
knife will match the upper left angle
and fix it securely.
15
For
adjusting the engagement
loosen the screw and
turn the lower knife holder about the
is
a clearance corresponding
0.01 mm, then retighten the screw and bolt.
(As per figure
nut
• on upper knife driving arm Q).
CD
in upper knife holder
fD
Q).
to
lower knife lightly.)
bolt
for lower knife holder support 0
to fit lower knife face and upper knife face and
f)
all
the
way, and adjust
0.5-
lower knife so
next
that
the lower left angle
of
upper and lower knife,
bolt
which fasten lower knife holder,
to
the thickness
page.)
to
the highest
on
the upper
1
mm
deep.
of
lower knife,
bolt
until there
so
that
the
of
upper
of 0 to
2
2
2
{
®
-22-
Procedures
0
-O.Oimm
0
(Note)
This adjustment
it
is
not
do it very carefully.
16
Make
sure it that upper and lower knives are engaged
and lower knife
and then fasten lower knife holder.
17
Place the thread between upper and lower knives in the
fore and rear parts, and
sharply cut.
1§1
FEED AND
is
necessary
is
PRESSER
carefully done before shipment
to
pressed against upper knife
X
do it. However,
see
that the thread can be
FOOT MECHANISM
if
X
it
by
so
is
needed,
spring
that
Thread
Procedures
1 Remove needle plate.
2 Adjust chain feed dog
case
of
(In
a height
3 Turn the pulley until under looper to the left mostly, temporarily fasten main feed dog
bar
O.
4 Temporarily fasten differential feed dog 8 on differential feed bar C).
5 Install needle plate on needle plate support bracket.
6 Turn the pulley until feed dogs are raised to the highest position, and adjust them to the following height
above the top
However,
thicker thread and knitting wool and/or chaining-off hardly come out, adjust chain feed dog to
Pull out needle guard and
adjust clearance between
needle and under looper
0 to 0.03mm.
to
in
the thread guide
Note on Item
1}
Sew
2) Do not pull the work with
stitches will be made away from the desired line.)
3}
Push a thicker part
hand.
Machine adjustments:
1}
Adjust the presser pressure to 2 to 3kg,
threads.
2}
Adjust the clearance between the presser foot and the blind hemming
ruler so that the work will easily pass.
3) Adjust the clearance between the blind hemming ruler. An assembly's
tip and the blind hemming ruler so that the work will easily pass.
4}
Adjust hemming width by turning the blind hemming ruler adjusting
screw.
Note
on
If
wooly nylon
the needle thread tension
in
the thread guide without winding.
6:
Precautions on blind hemming
at constant speed.
Item 7:
is
used for blind hemming, stitches will not skip because
your right hand.
of
material under the presser foot with your left
is
small. Pass the thread through the two holes
(If
or
by about 12
the work
to
is
15
pulled,
screw
Q Blind Hemming ruler
Clearance
Clearance
-30-
13]
DOUBLE-NEEDLE, FOUR THREADS
No.
Double-needle
four threads
Mock safety
No.
Double-needle
four threads
Mock safety
Qoth
Knit underwear
1
material
Thin knitwork
2
Bulky material
3
Broadcloth Cotton #SO
4
Jersey
5
Left needle Right needle
thread tension thread tension
60-SO
1
40--60
2
70--90
3
4
so
--so
s
so"'
70
Cotton
Synthetic
Needle: Synthetic
Looper: Woolen
Polyester
30--
2S-4S
35-SS
4S
2S-SO
Thread
51)
--70
#60/2
#60
#60
#50
Over looper Under looper
thread tension thread tension
6
--1S
4-16
3--10
s
10--20
Needle size
--1S
Note on Item I:
Cotton threads in the range
thread tension must be reduced
thread tends
to
break. In that case, do not tighten the needle thread
tension but adjust the positions
if
the thread tension must be increased.
Note on Item
2:
About the same tension may be used for
of
#60/2 to #70/2
as
much
of
the thread take-up and thread guide
are
weak
as
possible. A poor quality
sewing
with synthetic and
so
that the
cotton threads.
Note on Item 3:
Make
the same adjustment
Note on Item
If
the over looper thread tension
4:
as
mentioned in Item 5 for three threads.
is
too small, double-needle four-thread
stitches may sometimes be made. In such a case, raise the over looper
thread take-up (R) to decrease thread delivery.
Note on Item 5:
When sewing jersey with chemical thread, it may break due to heat.
# 9
#11
#14
#11
#14
s
6-1S
s
8--1S
8--18
Differential ratio
o.s
1.5--2
"'20
--15
1
--1.5
1--2
2--3
--1
Stitch length
2--2.5
"
2.~--
2.8•
2
"'2.5
2.5-3
Raise
~
DOUBLE-NEEDLE, FIVE THREADS (Safety
No.
1
2
3
4
s
No.
1
2
3
4
s
Cloth
Broad cloth
Broad cloth
Jersey
Gaberdine
Denim
Double chain stitch
needle thread tension
20--
50
1S--
4S
2S-
60
35-
60
so--
uo
Thread
#so
Cotton
Polyester
Needle: Polyester #SO
Looper: Wooly nylon
Cotton
#so
Cotton
#so
Double chain stitch
looper thread tension
S-IS
5-10
s-20
6"'
1S
10-20
#80
Stitches
Needle size
Over needle
thread tension
Only)
#11
"
#14
#16
#21
40-
302S,...,
so
--100
70-1SO
Differential ratio
Over looper
thread tension
90
so
so
-31-
o.s
--1
"
1.5-2
1
"
10--
S--20
s-1s
7-20
10
--2S
2S
Stitch length
2-2.5
"
2.2-2.8
2.S
"'3
"
Under looper
thread tension
s
--20
s
-1S
S--20
10-30
1S
--30
Note
on
Items 1 and 2:
Broadcloth tends to pucker
Use
a single type presser foot for efficient feeding.
Note on Item 3:
If wooly nylon thread
Jersey tends to deviate much
Remarks:
on
Note
Denim also tends to deviate much
threads).
8.
TROUBLE
[]]
THREAD BREAKAGE (Overlock Stitch
If
a single type presser foot
may break, and chaining-off thread break may occur.
Item
5:
Use
gauge parts for denim specification.
so
is
used for double chain stitches, it can resist stretching up to 130 to 150%.
SHOOTING
that the thread tension must be decreased
so
decrease the presser pressure
is
used except when sewing thin materials, initial stitches may skip, the thread
so
that the presser pressure must be decreased to 2 to 3
Needle)
(to
2 to 3kg) and use a double type presser foot.
as
much
as
possible.
kg
{by about
12
to
15
screw
CHECK POINT
1 Wrong threading.
2
3 Poor thread quality.
4
5
6
7 Needle plate has flaws.
8 Under looper has flaws.
l
Excessive pressure
l
l
Needle groove or needle eye poorly finished
l
Wrong position
l
Needle thread passage has flaws.
l
of
tension disc.
of
looper thread take-up.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
ADJUSTMENT
Refer to "Threading diagram."
Adjust to proper pressure.
Use
thread
of
good quality.
Change needle for a good one.
Adjust to proper position.
Change thread guide for a new one.
Change it for a new one or smooth surface
with oil stone or buff.
Fmws~
Change it for new one or smooth surface
with oil stone or buff.
PAGE
28
-
24
18
lf==Blunt
9 Wrong timing
of
needle and looper.
-
-32-
Adjust to proper timing, needle clearance
and position
of
Flaws
19
needle guard.
• THREAD BREAKAGE (Double
Chain
Stitch
Needle)
CHECK POINT
Wrong threading.
1
l
Excessive pressure
2
l
Poor thread quality.
3
l
Needle groove or needle eye poorly fmished.
4
l
Wrong position
5
l
Wrong position
6
l
7 Needle thread passage has flaw.
l
8 Double chain stitch looper has flaw.
9 Wrong adjustment
of
tension disc.
of
chain stitch needle thread guide. -
of
looper thread take-up.
of
needle guard.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
ADJUSTMENT
Refer to threading diagram.
Adjust to proper pressure.
Use
thread
of
good quality.
Change needle for a good one.
Adjust to proper position.
Adjust to proper position.
.Change thread guide for a new one.
Change it for a new one or smooth surface
with oil stone
or
buff.
~Blunt
Flaws
Adjust to proper clearance between needle
and needle guard.
PAGE
31
16
25
20
21
10
Wrong timing
THREAD BREAK (Looper Thread)
121
Wrong threading.
l
2
Excessive pressure
l
3 Poor thread quality.
l
4
Wrong position
l
5
Looper thread passage has flaw.
l
6
Needle plate has flaw.
of
needle and looper.
CHECK
POINT
of
of
looper thread take-up.
tension disc.
-
\
~
-
~Clearance
Adjust to proper timing.
ADJUSTMENT
Refer
to
threading diagram.
Adjust to proper pressure.
Use
thread
Adjust to proper position.
Change thread guide for a new one.
Change it for a new one and smooth surface
with oil stone
of
good quality.
or
buff.
21
28
24
-33-
13]
SKIP STITCHING (Overlock Stitch)
CHECK POINT
1 Wrong threading.
l
Excessive pressure
2
l
In case skipping between over looper and needle.
*
Wrong position
1
l
Little movement into the left
2
of
tension disc.
of
looper thread take-up.
of
over looper.
I
3
Large clearance between needle and over looper. -
I
Incorrect height
4
l
* In case
Large clearance between under looper and over -
1
looper.
Top
2
of
l
of
over looper blunt or bent.
of
needle bar.
skipping between over looper and under looper.
-
-
-
-
-
-
ADJUSTMENT
Refer
to
threading diagram.
Adjust to proper pressure.
Adjust
to
proper position.
Adjust the position
movement.
Adjust over looper and under looper for
proper clearance between needle and over
looper.
Adjust
to
proper height.
Adjust
to
proper clearance.
Chnange it for a new one or smooth with
oil stone or buff.
of
over looper for proper
PAGE
28
24
19
18.
17
20
19
19
* In case
Large clearance between under looper and needle. -
1
Top
2
Incorrect height
3
Wrong timing
4
of
skipping between under looper and needle.
l
of
under looper blunt
of
needle bar.
l
of
under looper.
or
bent.
-
-
-
Blunt~
Adjust
to
proper clearance.
Change it for a new one or smooth with oil
stone or buff.
~
Blunt
Flaws
~·
Adjust
to
proper height.
Adjust to proper timing.
18
18
17
18
-34-
• SKIP STITCHING (Double
Chain
Stitch)
CHECK POINT
Wrong threading.
Refer to threading diagram.
ADJUSTMENT
l
of
2 Excessive pressure
tension disc. Adjust to proper pressure.
l
3 Wrong position
of
looper thread take-up. Adjust to proper position.
l
* In
case
of
skipping on rightward movement
Large clearance between looper and needle. Adjust to proper position.
2 Wrong position
of
needle guard.
of
looper.
Adjust to proper position.
-~""-clearance
PAGE
31
25
21
21
3 Top
4 Wrong timing
of
looper blunt or bent.
-Change
of
double chain stitch looper. -Adjust
it
for a new one
oil stone or buff.
~Blunt
u .Flaws
to
proper timing.
or
smooth with
Standard specifications 1.5
High-lift specifications 1.3
21
21
mm
mm
-35-
~
NEEDLE BREAKAGE
CHECK
1
Poor thread quality.
l
2
Needle size
3
Needle
4
Needle and looper
too
small.
l
is
not
center
!
I
5
Wrong adjustment
~
IMPROPER THREAD TENSION
CHECK POINT
1 Poor thread quality.
!
2 Needle size
3
Too weak pressure
4 Wrong position
too
small.
l
!
of
POINT
of
needle plate slot.
out
of
proper relation.
of
needle guard.
of
tension disc.
thread take-up.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
ADJUSTMENT
Use
thread
of
good quality.
Change it for more large one.
Adjust to proper position.
Adjust the position
looper properly.
Adjust to proper position for needle guard.
ADJUSTMENT
Use
thread
Change it for more large one.
Adjust to proper pressure.
Adjust
of
to
proper position.
of
needle guard and
good quality.
PAGE
17.
19
19.21
PAGE
28
24.25
18
I§] WRONG CHAINING-OFF
CHECK POINT
1 Wrong threading.
!
2
Excessive pressure
l
3
Too weak pressure
l
4 Wrong position
5
6
7
8 Wrong timing between needle and looper.
l
Wrong position
l
Wrong installment
!
Needle plate has flaws.
(Overlock
of
tension disc.
of
tension disc.
of
looper thead take-up.
of
needle thread take-up.
of
chain feed dog.
Stitch)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
ADJUSTMENT
Refer to thread diagram.
Adjust
to
proper pressure 28
Adjust
Adjust
Adjust
Adjust
Change it for
stone oil and buff.
to
proper pressure. 28
to
proper position.
to
proper position.
to
proper position.
.a
new one, or smooth with
~·
Adjust
to
proper timing.
PAGE
24
16
24
18.
19
-36-
• WRONG CHAINING-OFF (Double
Chain
Stitch)
CHECK POINT
Wrong threading.
1
!
Excessive pressure
2
l
Too weak pressure
3
!
4 Wrong position
l
Wrong position
5
!
Wrong installment
6
differential feed dog.
l
Wrong position
7
8 Existance
for chaining
of
clearance on the pressing pari
off
of
tension disc.
of
tension disc.
of
needle thread guide.
of
looper thread take-up.
of
main feed dog and
of
main feed dog.
of
presser foot.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
ADJUSTMENT
Refer to threading diagram.
Adjust to proper pressure.
Adjust
to
proper pressure.
Adjust to proper position.
Adjust to proper position.
Adjust installment with the same level.
Adjust needle plate in light toutch with
main feed dog.
Change
it
for a new one.
~
PAGE
31
16
25
24
24
~
9 Wrong timing between needle and looper.
1ZJ
EXCESSIVE WRINKLES
CHECK POINT ADJUSTMENT
1 Excessive pressure
!
2
Needle size too big.
of
tension disc.
j
3 Wrong differential ratio.
!
4 Bight too wide.
!
5
Knives are not sharp.
[S]
SLIPAGE OF CLOTH
-
-
-
-
-
-
Adjust to proper timing.
Adjust
Change it for a proper one suitable to
needle and materials.
Adjust to proper ratio.
Adjust to proper bight.
Change it for a new one or reglind.
(In case
knife
to
proper ·pressure.
of
engagement
is
wrong, adjust engagement
of
upper and lower
of
21
PAGE
28
27
22
these.)
CHECK POINT
1
Excessive pressure
2
!
Knives are not sharp.
of
pressure foot.
-
-
Adjust to proper pressure.
Change it for a new one
(In
case
knife
ADJUSTMENT
of
engagement
is
wrong, adjust engagement
l
3 Feed dog too high.
-
-37-
Adjust
to
lower level than standard level.
or
reglind.
of
upper and lower
of
PAGE
22
these.)
24
--
---~--~
MEMO
n
...
_
..
BROT
HER
HEAD
NA
GOYA .
TE
LEX.
I
8030034
Printed
INDU
OFFICE:
JAPAN
BROTHER
March 1
in
Japan
STRIES.
N0.3
LTD
.
5. 9 CHO
J59743 ·59908·58870
ME HORITA-OORI
978
MIZUHO
-KU
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