Bernina virtuosa 153 QE, virtuosa 163 Owner's Manual

MASTERING

YOUR

BERNINA

®

BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

MASTERING YOUR

BERNINA

virtuosa 153 QE/163

®

163

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/04/02

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MASTERING

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BERNINA

®

BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

Table of Contents

SECTION A Pages 3-16

Care and Feeding of Your Machine

SECTION B Pages 17-34
Let’s Start WIth The Basics

SECTION C Pages 35-52

On The Edge

SECTION D Pages 53-67

Gather It Up and Tuck It Down

SECTION E Pages 68-84

Miscellaneous Magic

SECTION F Pages 85-92

Creative Sewing

SECTION G Pages 93-103

Programming Pizzazz

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OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section A

Care and Feeding of Your Machine

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Care and Feeding of Your Machine

Machine Set Up

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Storage of Accessories – attach and detach
accessory box.

• Attach foot control; note storage of cords

• Power switch – Owner’s manual pg.____

• Extension table + sliding guide

• Presser foot lifter (optional with 153QE)

- acts as a “third hand”

- extra 2mm of presser foot lift

- drops feed dog to give extra space between

presser foot and feed dog

- speeds sewing by 20%

- alternate size available for use with a sewing

machine cabinet

Presser Feet

Owner’s manual pgs.____

• Importance of using the correct foot

• On-screen indicator

• Overview of included presser feet

Feed Dog

Owner’s manual pg. ____

SECTION A

Threading the Upper Thread

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Spool pins and discs – Owner’s manual pg.____

- vertical spool pin for stacked and decorative
threads

- horizontal spool pin for crosswound threads

- use disc closest to diameter of the spool

• Optional supplementary thread guide

• BERNINA

• Thread machine with the presser foot up until
ready to thread the needle

Threading the Needle

• Needle threader – Owner’s manual pg.____

• Side thread cutter – Owner’s manual pg.____

• After the needle is threaded, put the thread
under the presser foot

• Lower the presser foot

• Insert the thread into the cutter; it is cut to the
proper length to begin sewing

Needle Stop Adjustment

• With the foot control – Owner’s manual pg.___

• With the function button – Owner’s manual pg.___

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thread stand with extra thread guide

Threads

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• Types of thread

• Uses for each type of thread

Needles

Owner’s manual pg.____

Bobbins

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Removing the bobbin case

• Winding a bobbin

• Use bobbin thread cutter

• Quick start bobbin – use thread cutter located in
the bobbin area

• Clip the thread close to the case before
removing the bobbin

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Needle Positions

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• Nine positions

Practical/Decorative Stitches

Owner’s manual pgs.____

• Stitches programmed in the machine

• Stitches available from CPS software

• Uses for the stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____

• How to select stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____

Straight Stitching

• Seam measuring – stitch plate marks – Owner’s
manual pg.____

- the following measurements are indicated on
the stitch plate: ¼”, 3/8”, ½”, 5/8”, ¾”, and 1”

- the line just behind the needle is 4mm

- the horizontal lines to the far back and the
line in front of the needle are 5/8” from needle

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• Quilting/seam guide is included with the machine

• Left seam guide and seam guides with rulers are
available as optional accessories

• Straight stitch throat plate available

• Basting – use maximum stitch length (5.5mm)

Topstitching/Edgestitching

Owner’s manual pgs.____

Securing Stitches

Owner’s manual pgs.____

• Options

• Stitch

• Functions

Satin Stitches

• Thread bobbin case finger to adjust tension

• Can taper while sewing

• Stabilizer – important to the success of stitches

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BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

Cleaning and Lubricating the Hook

• Low mass hook system does not require
lubrication

• See Owner’s manual page ____ for step-by-step
cleaning instructions

Cleaning the Screen

• Wipe only with a damp cloth

Cleaning the Outside of the Machine

• Wipe with damp cloth. If needed, use a solution
of water and a few drops of liquid soap.

IMPORTANT: Never use oil, alcohol, or
solvents of any kind on any part of the
external surface of the machine.

Altering Stitches

Owner’s manual pg.____

Restoring Basic Settings

Owner’s manual pg.____

Presser Foot Pressure

Owner’s manual pg.____

Speed Controls

• Two ways to control – Owner’s manual pg.___

- ½ speed function button

- ½ stitch at a time by tapping the back of the

foot control

Changing the Light Bulb

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Use only 12V 5W. W 2.1 x 9.5d bulbs

Cleaning the Feed Dog

• Periodically remove thread fluff and fabric fuzz
which collects under the stitch plate. Refer to
manual for step-by-step instructions (pg.___).

Here’s an idea...Use your birthday
month as a reminder to have your
BERNINA

®

machine serviced. Take

it to an authorized BERNINA

technician during the month

of your birthday and you’ll

never have to remember

when it was last serviced.

®

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THREADS

Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through
the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a “see-saw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor
quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle
breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size
needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions.

Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with today’s
fabrics for fine stitches.

Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread
fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.

Ply – the number of single strands twisted together to make a single thread.
Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching, causing the stitch to

appearslightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll.
Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should

not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and
weak spots in seams.

Right twist – most American threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling.
This gives average stitch quality.

Left twist – Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better
than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for the hook
point to enter, reducing skipped stitches.

Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such
as Sulky’s rayons and metallics. Made in West Germany, these are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacoed
threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand
of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.

Fiber – refers to the typ eof material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads:

• Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made,
natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit. Also Isacord
embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant.

• Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist – such as Mettler 30/3.

• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate
machine embroidery, and darning.

• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine
embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.

• Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers.
Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton
thread stretches less than polyester.

• Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only.

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NEEDLES

Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical” problems and damage
to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damages, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all
needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting the correct needle for any sewing
project, three things must be considered:

Needle system – 130/705H
Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric damage
Needle size – small size for lightweight fabrics; larger needle for heavier fabrics

If the needle is:

Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be picked up by the hook point
Bent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enter loop to form stitch
Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make a stitch

Need To Know

• Needle should be changed every 4-6
hours of sewing. The needle is the most
inexpensive part in your sewing machine
but is one of the most crucial for getting
good results and keeping your machine
running well. Don’t let false economy
keep you from doing what is best for
your sewing projects and your machine.

• European needles are chrome-plated
to glide in and out of fabric easily.

• The selected thread should fit in the
groove on the front of the needle. If it
isn’t protected by the groove, a needle
with a larger groove should be used.

• Always make sure the needle is fully
inserted as high as possible when
installing a new one.

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Ball Point

Stretch

Stretch
Double

Universal

Double
Universal

Triple
(Drilling)

Jeans

Jeans
Double

70-90

70-90

2.5/75

4.0/75

60-110

1.6/70-

8.0/100

3.0/90

70-90

4.0/100

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BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES

Has a rounder point. 70 for
lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for
T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.

A stretch needle has a more
rounded point and a blue anti­cling coating which helps to
prevent skipped stitches in knits
and elastic. Sometimes used on
Ultrasuede

Two ballpoint needles on one
shank; each needle has a large
scarf. Used for hemming and for
stitching on knit fabric.

A compromise between a sharp
and a ballpoint needle; can be
used on both wovens and knits.
60 – very fine batiste
70 – broadcloth
80 – trigger and gabardine
90 – denim and twill
100 & 1 10 – canvas

Two needles attached to one
shank. Used for pintucks, hems,
and decorative work.

Three needles attached to one
shank. Used to create mock
smocking and other decorative
effects.

Has a sharp point and a shaft
that is less prone to flex. The
sharpness of the needles makes
it better for use on denim and
woven fabrics where a clean
stitch is desired.

Two Jeans needles attached to
one shank. For topstitching on
denim with heavy thread; can
also be used for decorative
stitching with metallic thread.

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, vinyl, and plastic.

Microtex
Sharp
(Schmetz)

Microfiber
(Lammertz)

Quilting

Topstitch

Embroidery
(Schmetz)

Metafil
(Lammertz)

Metafil
Double

Wing

Double
Wing

Leather

60-90

assort’d
(75 &

90)

80-100

75-90

3.0/75

100­120

100

80-90

A sharp point with a thin shaft.
60-90 corresponds to the weight
of the fabric; as the fabric gets
heavier, the number is higher.

The thin, tapers point of this
needle causes less damage to
fabric when seaming and cross
seaming.

A sharp point with a large eye
and deep groove. For use with
heavier fabrics – the large
groove cradles heavier threads.

Sharp needle with a large eye
and groove; also has a coating
and a larger scarf. For use with
embroidery thread – prevents
shredding of rayon or metallic
threads. Two threads may be
used through the eye of an 80
or 90 needle.

Two Metafil needles attached to
one shaft; for double needle
work with embroidery threads.

Sharp pointed needle with a non­cutting wedge of metal on each
side. Needle makes a hole in the
fabric without cutting the threads
of the fabric. Used for decorative
and heirloom work, such as
hemstitching. Works best on
natural fibers or on the bias.

One regular needle and one wing
needle attached to a single shaft.
Use the same as a Wing; makes
one large and one regular hole.

Point is a sharp cutting wedge.
Used for sewing leather only. Not
for vinyl or simulated leathers.

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NEEDLE POSITIONS

Fabric: Firmly woven fabric, 4” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.____

• The 153 QE/163 has 9 fixed needle positions.

• Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.

• Select Straight Stitch. The basic settings are displayed
on the screen. The needle position indicator is just
below the stitch width scale; the needle should be in
center position.

• Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the
right side of the stitch plate.

• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.

• Move the needle one position to the left.

• Sew another 6 stitches and stop again.

• Repeat until all five positions have been sewn.

• Leaving the fabric under the foot – move the needle
position back to center.

• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.

• Move the needle one position to the right.

• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.

• Move the needle one more position to the right – sew
another 6 stitches and stop again.

• Repeat until all five positions have been sewn.

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SEAMING

Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Find the 5/8” guide line on the stitch plate.

• Place fabric pieces right sides together and
align them with the guide line.

• Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.

• Attach the Quilting/Seam Guide to the foot
and sew a 2” seam on the other side.

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BASTING

Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Place fabric pieces right sides together.

• Using the Straight Stitch with the longest length (5.5mm), baste a

• Loosening the upper tension before stitching will make the stitches easier to remove.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/04/02

5

/8” seam along one side of the fabric.

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TOPSTITCHING/EDGESTITCHING

Fabric: Firm fabric – 4” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Cut fabric in half to create 2 pieces each 2” x 6”.

• Sew two pieces together with a

• Press the seam open.

• From the right side, position the blade of the foot in the ditch of the seam.

• Select Triple Straight Stitch #6.

• Move the needle position 3 places to the left.

• Sew the length of the seam.

• Select the longest stitch length.

• Move the needle position to the far right.

• Start at the top of the seam as before.

• Sew down the length of the seam again.

5

/8” seam on the 6” sides.

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SECURING STITCHES

Fabric: Firm fabric – 3 pieces, 3” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold each fabric piece in half to 1½” x 6”.

• Find the

• The BERNINA® 153 QE/163 secures in three ways:

5

/8” seam line on the guide plate.

1 – Select stitch #3 and sew a few stitches. Press the Quick Reverse button located on the front
of the sewing machine and the machine will sew in reverse until the button is released. Continue
stitching the seam and secure the end in the same manner.
2 – Select stitch #5 and stitch. The machine will automatically reverse after five stitches, then
continue in a forward motion. Stitch to the end of the seam, then press and release the Quick
Reverse button. The machine will stitch backward five stitches, and then continue forward again
five stitches and stop.
3 – Select stitch #23 on the 153QE or #21 on the 163. Engage the Securing function to put a
securing stitch at the beginning and the end of each pattern repeat. In regular sewing, turn the
Securing function off after the first stitch and back on again after the last stitch is taken.

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SATIN STITCH

Fabric: Firm fabric – 3 pieces, 3” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. Cotton Embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Use stabilizer as needed.

• Select Stitch #2. Change the stitch length to satin stitch and the stitch width to 5.5mm.

• Thread the bobbin thread through the hole in the finger of the bobbin case.

• Move the needle position all the way to the left.

• Position the raw edge of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the right side of the stitch plate).

• Sew down this edge about 1”. While continuing to sew, turn the stitch width knob to taper the stitch to
0mm. Then widen the stitch back to maximum. Repeat until the stitching reaches the end of the fabric.

• Position the fold of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the left side of the stitch plate).

• Move the needle position all the way to the right and stitch along the right side of the fabric, tapering
and widening the stitching while sewing.

• Move the needle position to the center and stitch down the center of the fabric, tapering and widening
the satin stitch while sewing.

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163

153QE

ALTERED MEMORY

Fabric: Firm fabric – 6” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold fabric to 3” x 6”.

• Select the suggested stitch (#25 on the 153QE and #33 on the 163).

• Sew a row of stitching as programmed down the center of the sample.

• Alter stitch #33 length to 1mm or stitch #25 length to 4mm and sew a 2nd row
on one side of the first row.

• Select stitch #2 - (the one used for satin stitching in the previous exercise).
Notice the computer remembered all the changes made to the stitch.

• Reselect stitch #25 on the 153QE or stitch #33 on the 163.

• Alter stitch #33 width to 2mm or stitch #25 width to 5mm and sew a 3rd row
on the other side of the first row.

• Touch CLR - notice the alterations made are gone.

• Select stitch #2 again - notice the changes made to it are gone also. CLR
returns

• The computer will remember any and all stitches you alter, as long as the clear
buttons are not used and as long as the machine is not turned off.

all stitch alterations back to default settings.

RETURNING TO BASIC SETTINGS

•Two options: 1. Press the external CLR button

2. Manually set changes back to the basic mark

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 Feet-ures
 Edgestitch Foot #10
 Additional bobbin holders for accessory cabinet
 Additional presser foot holders for accessory cabinet
 Stabilizers – Sampler Pack or type __________

 Thread – Assortment or size ____ and type ____
 Needles – Assortment or size ____ and type ____

 Needle Threader
 Bobbins – Baker’s dozen
 Spool Bobbin Holders
 Magnetic Pin Cushion
 Magnetic Bobbin Holder
 Straight Stitch Plate
 Seam Sealant
 Extra Thread Stand
 Scissors - 6” or 7” Dressmaker’s shears ____

 Left guide (matches right guide included with machine)____
 Seam Guide with Rulers (right and left) ____
 Set of Magnifying Glasses

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BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

WISH LIST

Care and Feeding of Your Machine

type __________
size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____

size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____

4” or 5” Trimming scissors ____
Thread nips ____

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OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section B

Let’s Start With The Basics

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Let’ s Start With The Basics

Seams

Triple Straight Stitch – SL 2-3mm

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Jeans Foot #8 prevents needle deflection

• Non-Stick Straight Stitch Foot #53

• This stitch sews strong seams on heavy
fabrics

Zigzag – SL1mm SW1.5mm

Owner’s manual pgs.____

Super Stretch – as programmed

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• use to seam curved edges that receive a
lot of stress such as the crotch area of pants.

BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

SECTION B

Oversewing Edges

Blind Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____

• The Blind Hem Foot #5, along with the
blindstitch, produces a superior blind hem. The
zigzag part of the stitch is formed over the guide
on the foot, causing the stitch to be slightly loose,
so that the blind hem will not pucker and does
not form a tuck in the fabric.

Hand Picked – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____
Triple Zigzag – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.____

• This stitch is used for strong, visible hems on
firm, coarse fabrics such as denim and canvas.

Vari-Overlock – SL1mm SW4mm NP right

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• Can be used with double needle for a
decorative hem on knits

• Overlock Foot #2 prevents the seam from
rolling as it is being sewn

• Engage the Needle Down function

Double Overlock – SL2mm SW5mm

Owner’s manual pg. ____

Stretch Overlock – SL2mm SW4mm

Owner’s manual pg. ____

Flat Joining – SL2mm SW4mm

Owner’s manual pg. ____

• Good for thick fabrics such as terry cloth
which would be stretched by a straight stitch

Stitching Corners

• Utilize the FHS system to raise and lower
the presser foot when turning corners.

• Use the 5/8” markings on stitch plate

• Engage the Needle Down function

• Press heel on foot control to lower needle

Double Needle – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.___
Neckline Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____

Jeans – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____

• Height Compensation Tool

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TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH

Fabric: Denim, 4” x 6”
Needle: 90/14 Jeans
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise forming two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

• Select the Triple Straight Stitch #6.

• Sew the two pieces together with a

• Press the seam open.

• Change to Edgestitch Foot #10 and adjust the needle position to stitch through the seam allowance.

• Adjust the stitch length to 3.5mm.

• With the guide of the foot in the ditch of the seam, topstitch the length of the seam on both sides.

5

/8” seam allowance using Reverse Pattern Foot #1.

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ZIGZAG SEAM

Fabric: Firm knit – 4” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut the fabric piece in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2 – SW 1mm and SL 0.5mm.

• Position the fabric to produce a

• Stitch the seam.

• Clip one seam allowance in the middle.

• Press one part of the seam open and leave the other half closed, so the stitch is visible.

• Trim and mount the sample.

5

/8” seam down one side.

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Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut fabric in half lengthwise creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

• Select stitch #13 on the 153QE or #15 on the 163.

• Position the fabric to produce a

• Stitch the seam.

• Clip one seam allowance in the middle and press one part of the seam open.

• Trim and mount the sample.

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SUPER STRETCH SEAM

Fabric: Heavy Double Knit, 4” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

5

/8” seam down one side.

Note: This stitch is good for an open seam on all knit fabrics; works well for sportswear.

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BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

V ARI-OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric: Cotton Interlock, 4” x 6”

Ribbing, 2” x 4”

Needle: 80/12 Univeral
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Overlock Foot #2

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut an inside curve in one corner of the fabric to simulate a neckline.

• Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch #3.

• Engage the Needle Down function.

• Place folded ribbing along the curved edge of the fabric (ribbing and fabric, right sides together).

• Guide the raw edges of the fabric under the pin of the foot and stitch; stitch length and width can
be adjusted, if needed.

• Trim the sample and mount with the ribbing pressed to the finished position.

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Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6’ each.

• Select the Double Overlock Stitch #8.

• Guide the raw edge along the pin of the Overlock Foot.

• The right swing of the needle should go off the fabric edge.

• Trim the sample and mount.

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BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

DOUBLE OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric: Single Knit – 4” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Overlock Foot #2

Note: This is a good overlock seam for loosely knit fabrics and for cross

seams in other knits and jerseys.

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Owner’s manual pg.___

• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating 2 pieces 2” x 6” each.

• Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #16 on the 153QE or #18 on the 163.

• Guide the fabric so the right swing of the needle goes off the edge of the
seam; lighten presser foot pressure if seam stretches.

• Trim and mount the sample.

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BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

STRETCH OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric: Loosely knit fabric, 4”x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: Regular sewing
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

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BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

FLAT JOINING SEAM

Fabric: Terry cloth - 2 pieces, 2” x 6” each
Needle: 90/14 Universal
Thread: Regular sewing thread to match fabric
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #16 on the 153QE or #18 on the 163.

• Cut a 5/8” seam allowance off one piece of fabric along the long edge.

• Mark a line on the other piece of fabric, 5/8” from one long edge. This will be
the right-hand piece of fabric.

• Overlap the fabric edges left over right, aligning the left raw edge with the
drawn line on the right-hand piece.

• Stitch along the raw edge. Turn the fabric over and stitch along the remaining

raw edge.

NOTE: This is a great seam technique to use on bulky fabrics such as terry cloth.

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BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

STITCHING CORNERS

Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 5” x 5” each
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Select the Straight Stitch #1.

• Place fabric pieces right sides together.

• Place the fabric under the foot with the top edge even with the horizontal line behind the foot.

• The right edge should be even with the 5/8” seam line.

• Engage the Needle Down function.

• Sew until the bottom edge touches the horizontal line in front of the needle; stop.

• Pivot and continue sewing until you come to the next corner and do the same thing.

• Stitch only three sides of this sample.

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BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

OVERSEWING EDGES

Fabric: Heavy Flannel – 3” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2.

• Finish one 6” edge using the following steps.

• Guide edge of fabric under the middle of the presser foot.

• The needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle and over the edge on the next stroke.

• Do not use too long a stitch or too wide a stitch; the edge should lie flat, not roll.

• Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric.

• Trim and mount the sample.

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BLIND HEM

Fabric: Heavy Flannel – 6” x 7”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Reverse pattern Foot #1 and

Blind Hem Foot #5

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Finish one 6” edge of the fabric following the steps of the previous exercise.

• Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric and press.

• Attach Reverse Pattern Foot #1.

• Baste the hem in place, sewing about ¼” from the raw edge.

• Select the Blindstitch #7 and attach Blind Hem Foot #5.

• Fold hem back to the right side over the basting line.

• Sew on the extended hem allowance, keeping the folded edge next to the guide on the foot.

• Adjust the stitch width if needed so that the needle barely stitches into the fold.

• Mount the sample with the edges folded back as shown in the drawing.

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Owner’s manual pg.___

• Turn up a 1” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.

• Turn up the depth of the hem again and press.

• Fold the entire hem toward the right side of the garment, so that the garment fold is

almost even with the top edge of the hem. A scant 1/8” to 1/16” of hem edge should
be visible. This will ensure that both folds are caught by the blind hem pick.

• Place the fabric under the foot just as a traditional blind hem would be placed.

• Sew the hem with Blindstitch #7, making sure that the zigzag pick catches both folds

while the straight stitch falls off the edge and stitches in air forming a chain along the
upper hem edge.

• Press and mount the sample.

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BERNINA® virtuosa 153 QE/163

HAND PICKED HEM

Fabric: Lightweight broadcloth – 6” x 7”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: All-purpose
Presser Foot: Blind Hem Foot #5

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TRIPLE ZIGZAG HEM

Fabric: Firmly woven – 6” x 7”
Needle: 90/14 Embroidery
Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric; press.

• Select the Triple Zigzag Stitch #6.

• Adjust stitch length and width as desired.

• From the right side of the fabric, stitch the hem in place, sewing about 1½” from the fold.

• From the wrong side, trim the excess fabric close to the stitches.

• Press and mount the sample.

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