Bernina Funlock 004D, Funlock 004 Instruction Manual

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Important

Dear customer

Congratulations on your choice!

Your Bernette Funlock 004D/004 is made to the highest standards. It will cut, sew and neaten for you in one smooth
operation giving a professional look to anything you make.

The 4 thread Bernette Funlock is particularly suited to sewing stretch fabrics. Let your wardrobe and home benefit
from the Bernette’s superb sewing qualities. Our comprehensive Instruction Manual introduces you step by step to
the joys of overlocking and also gives you some useful sewing tips.

We wish you many happy hours of overlocking pleasure.

Safety Regulations

The following safety regulations must be observed without fail: It is important to pay attention to the needle and knife
while sewing as these are potential sources of injury to fingers. Movements within the area of the needle, knife or
looper such as threading, changing needles or presser feet, or raising the knife, may only be done with the machine
switched off (power switch at “O”). When cleaning or lubricating the machine replacing the bulb or when sewing is
finished, machine should be disconnected from the electricity supply. All repair work, especially electrical repairs
(e.g. renewing the cable connection out by one of our authorized service agencies.

Please note:
Funlock 004 is not equipped with differential feed. All points relating exclusively to Funlock 004D are marked with

the symbol. ✱

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Contents

Safety regulations 1

Contents 2

Details of the machine 3

● Accessories 4

Preparing the machine 5

● Foot control 5

● Assembling the thread stand 5

● Thread, cones, spools 6

Using the machine 7

● Main switch 7

● Handwheel 7

● Looper cover, cloth plate 7

● Presser foot lifter 8

● Changing the presser foot 8

● Inserting the needles 9

● Raising the upper knife 9

Threading 10

● Preparations 10

● Upper and lower looper 11/12

● Right-hand and left-hand needle 13/14

Threading/trial sewing 15

● 3 thread Overlock 15

● Sewing test/tension 15/16

● Adjusting tension 17

Adjustments and settings 18

● Stitch length 18

● Cutting width 18

● Differential feed ✱ 19/20

● Gathering ✻ 20

Setting/Practical sewing 21

● Presser foot pressure 21

● Roll hemming 22

● Sewing in tape 23

● Thread breakage, unpicking seams 23

Maintenance 24

● Changing knifes and light bulb 24

● Cleaning and lubricating 24

Trouble shooting guide 25

Technical data 26

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Details of the machine

Details of the machine

1. Looper cover

2. Looper cover opening indent

3. Knife guard

4. Cloth plate opening lever

5. Cloth plate

6. Stitch plate

7. Presser foot

8. Lower looper thread tension dial

9. Upper looper thread tension dial

10. Right needle thread tension dial

11. Left needle thread tension dial

12. Thread take-up cover

13. Thread guide plate

14. Presser foot adjusting screw

15. Sewing light

16. Power/light switch

17. Handwheel

18. Machine socket

19. Thread stand

20. Anti-vibration cone

21. Spool holder pin

22. Retractable support rod

23. Thread guide

24. Open thread guide

25. Presser foot lifter

26. Foam pad

27. Stitch length adjustment knob

28. Differential feed adjustment knob

3

21

20

19

Details of the machine

View with looper cover open

1. Upper looper

2. Upper knife

3. Lower knife

4. Selection lever for overlocking or roll hemming

5. Lower looper

6. Lower knife setscrew

View with cloth plate open

1. Cutting with adjustment knob

2. Stitch length adjustment knob (004)

Accessories

1. Electronic foot control

2. Lower knife

3. Net

4. Spool caps

5. Tweezers

6. Cleaning brush

7. Looper threader

8. Needle threader

9. Set of household needles

10. Small screwdriver

11. Large screwdriver

12. Oiler

13. Accessory bag

14. Dust cover

4

Preparing the machine

Attaching the foot control

Plug foot control into machine socket (A) and then into main
socket (B). The foot control regulates the sewing speed. The
sewing speed can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the
pressure on the foot control.

Thread guide

Raise, the support rod fully, turning slightly until the
positioning catches engage (C). Position the thread guide on
the thread stand so that the arrow is to the front (D).

Thread Stand

Attach the separately packed spool holder to the fixed spool
holder.

5

Preparing the machine

Thread cones/spools

The anti-vibration cone should be used with the wider edge
at the bottom on the spool holder pin when sewing with
cones.

Large spools

If large industrial spools are used, position the anti-vibration
cone upside down on the spool holder pin, i.e. with the wider
edge at the top.

Household spools

Remove the anti-vibration cones. Place spools on spool
holder pins and push the spool capon with the rounded side
downwards.

Thread net

If threading slip and get twisted, cover the spools of upper
and lower looper with the nets supplies in the accessory bag.

6

Using the machine

Power/light switch

The power/light switch is conveniently placed on the hand­wheel side of the machine in front of the socket.

• Off (A)

• On without light (B)

• On with light (C)

Handwheel

The handwheel turns forward, i.e. in the same direction as on
a household sewing machine.

Looper cover

To open press to the right with your thumb in the indent
provided and tilt the cover towards you. To close, push it up
and press lightly to the right. The cover engages
automatically.

Cloth plate

The cloth plate opens automatically by pushing the lever
downwards. To close the cloth plate, push it towards the
machine and press gently until the cover engages.

7

Using the machine

Two-step presser foot lifter

To raise the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever on the
rear of the machine, until it engages (A). It can be raised
again to maximum height and held in this position to provide
more space between presser foot and stitch plate (B).

Changing the presser foot

• Turn power switch to “O”

• Raise the presser foot

• Turn handwheel towards you until needles are fully

raised.

Press the catch (C) to release the presser foot from the
clamp. Raise the presser foot to the highest position (B)
and remove the presser foot to the left. To attach the
presser foot, place it under the shaft. The groove in the
shaft should line up exactly with the presser foot pin
(D). Lower the shank and the presser foot will engage
automatically.

8

Using the machine

Inserting the needles

Needles can be inserted quickly and easily with the practical
brush-cum-needle inserter (A).

• Turn power switch to “O”.

• Turn handwheel towards you until needles are fully

raised.

• Lower the presser foot.

Using the small screwdriver, loosen the needle set- screws
and remove the needles (B).

Place right-hand needle, flat sides towards the back, into the
hole of the needle inserter and insert the needle as far as
possible into the needle clamp. Tighten the set-screw lightly
and then insert the left-hand needle in the same way and
tighten both setscrews (C).

Needle and machine

Your Funlock is equipped with needle system 130/705 H
(household needles). These should be purchased when
replacement needles are required. Use needles no. 70 – 90 on
your Bernette.

Raising the upper knife

•

• Turn the handwheel towards you until needles

• Open looper cover.

Press the upper knife holder (D) to the right. Turn the knob
clockwise (E) until the knife is in the position illustrated (F).

9

Turn the power switch to “O”

are fully raised.

Threading

Preparation/Tips

• Turn power switch to “O”

• Support rod with thread guide must be fully raised.

• Open the looper cover and cloth plate.

• Turn the handwheel towards you until needles are
fully raised.

• Raise the upper knife.

Thread the machine carefully and in the correct sequence.
Invaluable threading aids simplify threading:

• coloured threading illustration

• colour coded thread path on the machine.

• threading accessories.

Thread guide bar

Slide thread into the two slits to form an S-loop.

Thread tension

The thread must lie correctly between the tension discs for
perfect stitch formation. When a slight resistance is felt on
the thread, it is lying correctly between the tension discs.

Needle threader

Insert thread into threader. Push the rigid end of the threader
through the looper or needle eye and pull it completely
through the eye.

10

Threading

1. Upper looper thread, blue markings

Place the spool on the spool holder pin underneath the blue
marking on the thread guide.

(1) Bring thread up from spool and take it through the blue
guide.
(2,3) Make S-loop around thread guide bar.
(4) Thread guide.
(5) Thread tension dial.
(6,7,8,9,10) Thread guides
(11) Turn handwheel towards you until upper looper is in the
position illustrated. Thread looper eye.
(12) Lift presser foot, place thread underneath and lower
presser foot.

11

Threading

1. Lower looper thread, red markings

Place the spool on the spool holder pin underneath the red
marking on the thread guide.

(1,2) Bring thread up from spool and take it through the red
guide.
(3,4) Make S-loop around thread guide bar.
(5) Thread guide.
(6) Thread tension dial.
(7,8,9,10,11) Thread guides
(12) Using the looper threader, pass the thread from the right
hand side through to the left hand-side of the machine. Turn
the handwheel towards you until the lower looper is in the
left-most position. Insert the thread into the slit on the lower
looper.
(13) Using the looper threader, pull the thread through to the
right side again. Turn the handwheel towards you until the
lower looper is in the right-most position, and thread the
looper eye so that the thread lies in the long groove on the
lower looper.
(14) Take the thread over the upper looper. Raise the presser
foot, place the thread under it and then lower the presser
foot.

12

Threading

3. Right-hand wheel needle, green markings

Place the spool on the spool holder pin underneath the green
marking on the thread guide.

(1,2) Bring thread up from spool and take it through the
green guides.
(3,4) Make S-loop around the thread guide bar.
(5) Thread tension dial.
(6,7,8) Thread guides.
(9) Thread guide on needle clamp.
(10) Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are
fully raised. Thread the right-hand needle.
(11) Raise the presser foot, place thread underneath it. Lower
presser foot.

13

Threading

4. Left-hand needle, yellow markings

Place the spool on the spool holder pin underneath the
yellow marking on the thread guide.

(1) Bring the thread up from the spool and take it through the
yellow guide.
(2,3) Make S-loop around thread guide bar.
(4) Thread tension dial.
(5,6,7) Thread guides
(8) Thread guide on needle clamp
(9) Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are
fully raised. Thread the left-hand needle.
(10) Raise the presser foot, place the thread underneath it.
Lower presser foot.

When threading is complete, lower the upper knife and close
the looper cover and cloth plate.

Note: If the lower looper has to be re-threaded, cut both
needle threads off at the needle and removes surplus thread
from below. Thread the looper and then re-thread the
needles.

14

Threading, Trial sewing

3 thread overlock (right needle)

For a 3-5 mm wide 3 thread overlock stitch, remove the
left-hand needle. Then thread both loopers and the right­hand needle. (See Page 11-13).

3 thread overlock (left needle)

For a 5-7 mm wide 3 thread overlock stitch, remove the
right-hand needle. Then thread both loopers and the left­hand needle. (See Page 11,12,14).

Sewing test

After threading make a trial run. Always use a double layer
of fabric in order to be able to check the stitch formation and
thread tension properly.

• Set upper and lower looper tension dials to 4 and needle
tension dials to 4.

• Upper knife in cutting position.

• Presser foot lowered.

• Raise the front of the presser foot slightly with your

thumb and position the fabric under the foot just up to
the knife. Release the presser foot Sew.

• At the end of the seam continue sewing a 5-6 cm (2-2
½”) long thread chain (A).

• Holding the fabric in one hand, pull the thread chain
over the thread cutter on the presser foot shank (B).

15

Thread tension

Check your trial run

1. Upper looper thread (blue)

2. Lower looper thread (red)

3. Right-hand needle thread (green)

4. Left-hand needle thread (yellow)

Perfect stitch formation is when both looper threads meet at the
fabric edge. The needle threads form straight stitches for a
stretchy and durable seam.

Thread tension

Thread tension should be properly adjusted to suit the various types
of work.

The ideal tension setting for most fabrics and threads is between 3
and 5. However this can vary quite considerably when special threads
such as filament, wooly nylon, buttonhole twist (cordonnet), perle
yarn or decorative threads are used.

Infinitely variable adjustments can be made from 1-9. Turn to the left
for less tension. Turn to the right for more tension.

16

Thread tension

Adjusting the thread tension

Turn tension dials by only half or one number then test
sew again and check the results.

The loops are formed on the underside;
Tighten the upper lower thread tension, blue or loosen
the lower looper tension, red (A).

The loops are formed on the upper side;
Tighten the lower looper thread tension, red or loosen
the lower looper tension, blue (B).

The right-hand needle thread forms loops on the
underside;
Tighten the right-hand needle thread tension, green (C).

The left-hand needle thread forms loops on the
underside;
Tighten the left-hand needle thread tension, yellow (D).

The edge of the fabric curls up; tension of both looper
threads is too tight;
Loosen upper and lower looper thread tension, blue and
red (E).

The fabric puckers during sewing;
Loosen the right or left-hand needle thread tension,
green or yellow (F).

17

Adjustments and settings

Stitch length

004:

• Turn power switch to “O”.

• Open cloth plate, loosen knob and adjust to desired

length. Tighten knob and close cloth plate.

004D:

• Turn dial to stitch length desired can be adjusted
while sewing.

The stitch length is infinitely variable from 1-4 mm. Most
overlock work is done with a basic setting of 2-3 mm.

Cutting width

• Turn power switch to “0”.

• Raise the upper knife.

• Open the cloth plate.

• Turn cutting width adjustments knob in the direction

desired.

• Lower upper knife.

• Close cloth plate.

The position of the lower knife determines the width of
the seam.

1=3.5 mm seam width
2=4.5 mm seam width
3=5.7 mm seam width

Reduce the cutting width if the edges of fine fabrics curl up
when being sewn. Adjust the cutting knob to a higher
number (A).

Increase the cutting width knob to a higher number (B).

18

Adjustments and settings

Differential feed

There are two feed dogs one front (A) and one rear
(B).
The two feed dogs move independently and the
distance each feed dog travels during one complete
movement can be adjusted.

The differential feed prevents fluting or waving in
knitted or stretch fabrics and movements between the
layers of fabric.

It also ensures pucker-free seams in smooth fabrics
such as nylon or closely woven fabric (C).

Perfectly flat seams in knits or stretch fabrics.

The distance traveled by the front feed dog should be
greater than that of the rear feed dog. The front feed
dog, therefore, feeds an amount of fabric, which the
rear feed dog, can take up behind the needle without
stretching the fabric.

Pucker-free seams in nylon or closely woven
fabrics.

The distance traveled by the rear feed dog should be
greater than that of the front feed dog. The front feed
dog, therefore, holds the fabric back so that the rear
feed dog can take it up behind the needle without any
puckering (D).

19

Adjustments and settings

Adjusting the differential feed

The differential feed can be adjusted by simply turning
the differential feed adjustments knob in the direction
desired.

Always make a trial run. The differential feed is
infinitely variable and can be adjusted while sewing.

2

1.5

N Normal feed (C) Woven fabrics

0.7 No puckering (D)

Effect Fabric

Wave-free seams

(A)

Wave-free seams

(B)

Thick wool knits, and
knitted articles, very
stretchy fabric
Cotton, silk, synthetic
jerseys, sweatshirt fabrics
and fine knits

Fine nylon jersey, closely
woven fabrics, lining fabric
satin, poplin

Gathering

Using the differential feed, a single layer of fabric can
be gathered before sewing it to the garment. For
example, sleeve heads and lower edges, yokes, lace
edging or frills.

djustment:

A

• Stitch: 4 th

• Differential feed: 2 tension (6-8) for a

• Stitch length: 3 –4 tighter gathering

• Cutting width: 2-3

• Thread tension: 4-6

N

ote: When sewing without differential feed, turn the

adjustment knob to “N”.

read overlock Increase the thread

20

Settings, practical sewing

Presser foot pressure

he presser foot pressure is factory adjusted to a medium setting.

T
Should you wish to adjust it, simply turn the knob in the direction
desired:

osition of knob for normal pressure (A).

P

M

ore pressure: for thick or stiff fabrics such as denim, tweed, firm

linen (B).

L

ess pressure: for lightweight or sheer fabrics and knits (C).

Roll Hemming

Turn the handwheel towards you until the needle are

•

fully raised.
For roll hemm

• ing, pull the selection lever back to the
red marking on the stitch plate furthest from the
presser foot (D).

• push the selection lever forwards to

For overlocking,
the red marking on the stitch plate nearest the presser
foot (E).

T

he roll hemmer is fully integrated in the machine. The
edges of the fabric will be automatically rolled over
producing a very narrow, fine seam or hem. Roll
hemming is deal for finishing edges on all fine fabrics,
such as evening clothes, lingerie, scarves frills and also
for curtains and napkins.

2

1

Settings, practical sewing

Rolled hem

Application: Edge finish

•

•

Stitch: 3 thread overlock, right needle.

• Stitch selection: roll hemming

• Thread: Darning thread, fine polyester thread, wooly nylon thread

(only in upper looper)

• Needle: 70/80

• Stitch length: 1-1.5

• Cutting width: 1-2

• Differential feed: 0.7-2

• Thread tension: Adjust the tension to suit the fabric and thread chosen.

The looper threads meet on the underside of the fabric. Lower looper
tension (red) 6-9, upper looper tension (blue) 2-5 and needle tension
(green) 4-7.

Narrow seam

• Application: Fine seams

• Stitch: 3-thread overlock right-hand needle.

• Stitch selection: roll hemming.

• Thread: Fine polyester thread, wooly stretch nylon in upper and lower

looper.

• Needle: 70/80

• Stitch length: 1,5-2,5

• Cutting width: 1-2

• Differential feed: N-2

• Thread tension: Adjust the tension according to fabric and thread

chosen. The loops formed by the loopers should meet exactly on the
edge of the fabric. Lower looper tension (red) 2-5. Upper looper
tension (blue) 3-6. Right-hand needle tension (green) 4-7.

22

Settings, practical sewing

Sewing in tape

The standard presser foot is equipped with a tape guide. A tape can
be sewn into the shoulder or side seams of garments made from
knits or stretch fabrics to prevent stretching.

• Turn the handwheel towards you until needles are fully raised.

• Raise the presser foot.

• Lay the tape under the presser foot and slide it carefully into

the tape slot.

• Lower the presser foot and sew a few stitches until the right-

hand needle catches the left-hand edge of the tape.

• Loosen the setscrew (A) and adjust the tape guide to suit the

width of the tape (B).

• Retighten setscrew.

• Raise the tip of the power foot and place work underneath,

Sew.

Thread breakage during sewing

Sew off immediately at an angle and remove the work. Rethread.
If the lowe
at the needle and remove the thread. First thread the looper and
then the needle. Start sewing again about 2-3 cm in front of
where the thread broke.

npicking seams

U

sing sharp scissors cut the loops (C). Pull the needle thread

U
(D) and the stitches will come undone.

3

2

r looper thread has broken, cut off both needle threads

Maintenance

Changing the upper knife

The upper knife (moving knife) is made from special
hardened material. Should it get damaged, it can be replaced
by your local Bernette dealer.

Changing the lower knife

• Disconnect machine from electricity supply.

• Turn handwheel towards you until needles are
fully raised.

• Raise the upper knife

Loosen the setscrew on the lower knife retaining plate.
Remove the lower knife. Fit the replacement knife
(from accessory bag) in the groove so that the sharp is
in line with the stitch plate. Retighten the screws (see
page 1).

Replacing the bulb

• Disconnect machine from electricity supply.

Unscrew the bulb and replace it with a new one: The bulbs
are 15 Watt for 110V/115V machines and 10 Watt for
220V/230V/240V machines. They are available from your
local dealer.

Cleaning and lubricating

• Disconnect machine from electricity supply.

During sewing, dust and fluff collect in and on the machine.
This should be removed regularly. Your Funlock requires
very little lubrication. Now and then, lubricate only the
points illustrated (see page 1).

24

Trouble shooting guide

Problem Cause Solution Page

Fabric does not feed……………… Presser foot pressure is too low Adjust the presser foot pressure…………… 21
evenly Lower knife is blunt or wrongly positioned Replace the lower knife 24
Thread breaks…………………….. Thread tensions is too tight for thread Reduce thread tension…………………. 16/17
being used
The machine is not thread correctly Check the threading 11 – 14

Needles are incorrectly inserted Insert needles fully into needle clamp 9

with flat side to the back
Use needle system 130/705 H 9
Needles break……………………. Needles are bent, blunt or points are Replace needles……………………………. 9
damaged
Needles are not inserted correctly Insert needles fully into needle clamp with 9
flat side to the back
Fabric was pulled while sewing Guide fabric gently with both hands
Skipped stitches………………….. Needles are bent or blunt Replace the needles………………………… 9
Wrong needles used Use needles of system 130/705 H 9
Presser foot pressure is too low Increase presser foot pressure……………… 21
Poor stitch information…………… Thread is not wound correctly round Check if thread is lying between………….. 10
tension dials tension discs.
Thread has got caught Check the threading path of each thread 11 – 14
Seams flute or wave……………….Fabric was pulled while sewing Guide fabric gently…………………………….
especially when Presser foot pressure is too tight Reduce presser foot pressure 21
sewing knits
Differential feed is set incorrectly. Adjust differential feed to N – 2 1 9 – 20
Seams pucker…………………….. Thread tension is too tight Reduce thread tension………………….16 - 17
Differential feed is set incorrectly. Adjust differential feed to 0.7 – N 19 – 20
Fabric edges curl…………………. Too much fabrics is in the stitch Reduce cutting width……………………… 18
Thread tension is too tight Reduce thread tension 16 – 17

25

Trouble shooting guide

Stitch choice………………….. 2 needles, 4 thread
Overlock with integral safety seam
1 needle, 3 thread Overlock
Needle system………………… 130/705 H
Seam width…………………… 3 – 7 mm (3 thread overlock)
5 – 7 mm (4 thread overlock)
Stitch length…………………... 1 – 4 mm
Differential feed……………… No waving or fluting in knits N – 2
No puckering 0.7 N
Presser foot lift……………….. 5 mm
Handwheel……………………. Rotates forward
Sewing speed…………………. Up to 1500 s.p.m.
Weight………………………… 7.0 kg
Dimension…………………….. 270 (W) x 340 (D) x 295 (H) mm

We reserve the right to make changes in the interests of technical progress.

Blind stitch foot

The blind stitch foot is ideal for stretchy and invisible hems
in knitwear.

Elasticator

The Elasticator will sew on any type of elastic from a width
of 5 mm – 12 mm. The fabric edges are cut off and
overlocked in the normal way producing a lovely neat finish.
The elasticator is of invaluable help when sewing swimwear
or gymnastic wear.

Cording foot

Ideal for fine fabrics. Give frills and flounces a beautiful
wavy finish by sewing cord, wool of fishing line into a rolled
hem.

26

“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”

“When using an electrical appliance, basic precautions should always be followed, including the following:”
“Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.”

“DANGER___ To reduce the risk of electric shock:”

1. “An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug immediately after using
and before cleaning.”

2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with the same type rated 15 watts.”

“WARNING”___ To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.”

1. “Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliances is used by or near
children.”

2. “Use this appliance only for its intended use as a described in this manual. Use only attachments
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.”

3. “Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been
dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or
service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.”

4. “Never operate the appliance with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing
machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.”

5. “Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.”

6. “Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.”

7. “Do not use bent needles.”

8. “Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.”

9. “Switch the sewing machine off (“0”) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading
needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.”

10. “Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when
making any other uses servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.”

11. “Never drop or insert any object into any opening.”

12. “Do not use outdoors.”

13. “Do not operate where aerosol (spray) produces are being used or when oxygen is being administered.”

14. “To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then remove plug from outlet.”

15. “Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.”

“SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS”

“This sewing machine is intended for household use only.”

© Copyright by Fritz Gegauf Ltd.
Bernina Sewing Machines
8266 Steckborn, Switzerland
No. 501 661 13 GB/E

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